In My Kitchen - Strictly Food for Thought

North Country Food by North Country PeopleIn My KitchenWith Tim DurneyOn the TownDeer’s Head InnLocalProducerAdirondackChocolatesCelebrateValentinesBe CreativeFebruary 2013A Northeast Group Publication

Our Cardiology TeamKeeps GrowingThe Champlain Valley Heart Centerat CVPH is proud to announce theaddition of Dr. Alfred Loka to theElectrophysiology team. Dr. Loka joinsus from Dartmouth Hitchcock MedicalCenter and is Board Certified in InternalMedicine and Cardiovascular Disease.“When patients have to leave the areafor treatment, it is very hard on themand their families. The drives, hotels…It can be difficult as well as expensive.People can now get the same serviceshere in Plattsburgh, with less cost interms of travel, lodging and follow-ups.”- Alfred Loka, M.D.Vascular & Cardiac Care, Closer to Homewww.CVPH.orgDr. Siouffi and Dr. Alfred Loka.The electrophysiology team.

contents6 In My KitchenWith Tim Durney24 North CountrySoupsOn the cover:Tim DurneyPhotograph by:Greer Cicarelli Photography10 Valentine’s Day14 On the TownDeer’s Head Inn19 Food for ThoughtA Decadent Valentine20 Local ProducerAdirondack Chocolates28 In Search ofthe PerfectLoaf of Bread33 Chefy’s Corner34 Your Recipe,Our KitchenA Northeast Publication©2013All Rights ReservedVol. 2, No. 4, February 2013

Betsy VicencioVP/CFO The Northeast GroupIlove our North Country! The arctic chill of our winter hasnestled itself among the “heat wave” days launching into the mid30’s and 40’s. Skiers, snowmobilers, winter hikers, snowshoers,and other outdoors folk are following Tom Messner’s weatherpredictions closely to find the best combination of temperature, windand sunshine to enjoy the blessings of our region.Winter in the North Country holds many passions for all of us! Love,food, family, fun…all part of this issue of Strictly Food for Thought! No onecan escape the food traditions and inspirations of the “love” month—February. We capture the traditional essence of Valentine’s Day with ourvisit to Adirondack Chocolates. You have to love two male chocolatiersthat profess, “Chocolate is Our Passion!”In our travels through Essex County, we find hidden treasures likethe Deer’s Head Inn and the Dogwood Bread Company. As you read thestories we have to share about these wonderful people and place, youwill be compelled to include a stop in your North Country travels! Also,in this issue, we discovered a young veteran who has found his way toour region. Tim Durney’s food story includes his children, his glutenfreefriends and his own heritage.Curl up in your favorite chair, wrap up in your favorite blanket, bringalong your favorite winter snack and beverage and read what we have toshare! We are delighted to bring you these great stories of our amazingNorth Country people and food. Stay warm, keep reading, keep eating…Who knows? Maybe someday we may be writing about you…Want to be a part of Strictly Food for Thought?We’re always looking for new ideas. If you have a suggestion about whatyou’d like to see in future issues of Strictly Food for Thought, let us know!Recipes, people to feature, food businesses, if it’s interesting and has todo with food, we want to know about it!Email us at: editor@strictlyfoodforthought.comOnlineLike what you see in the magazine?Visit strictlyfoodforthought.comfor more great recipes, tips, and ideasthat are devoted to North Countryfood by North Country people.

KEEPIN THE SPIRITOF THINGSPublisherHerbert O. CarpenterManaging EditorMary CarpenterPresident/CEOMike CarpenterVice President/CFOBetsy VicencioProduction ManagerCeil GarrowAdvertisingJennie RussellPublication DesignerKimberly SmithGraphic DesignerNancy FlorentineContributing WritersCarol Blakeslee-CollinAmy KretserKaty LaValleyGordie LittleJustine ParkinsonPhotographerGreer Cicarelli PhotographyProductionRodney DupreyBusiness Plan CoverageLegal Consultation ServicesToll-Free telephone consultations with your Provider Lawyer.When you aren’t sure of a legal procedure, you won’t have to worryabout the cost of consulting a lawyer. You’ll be able to call yourProvider Law Firm when you have a question about such legal aspectsof your business as:• Employee hiring• Equipment leases• Joint ventures• Incorporation• Intellectual property• Partnership• Landlord/tenant issues• City zoning• Bad check recovery• Customer complaints• Workers’ Compensation• Creditor harassmentFor more information, call Jed Thone,Independent Associate, at 518-593-4998Subscription Rates12 issues are $22.95 per year within U.S.and $27.95 (U.S.) within Canada.Telephone: (518) 563-8214Fax: (518) 563-3320.1Strictly Food for Thought is publishedmonthly by The Northeast Group12 Nepco Way, Plattsburgh, New York 12903.February 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 5

In My Kitchenwith Tim Durney By Justine ParkinsonEvery once in a while you meet a hero, but in this case he was so low keyI almost missed him. Tim Durney is originally from Rochester, NewYork, the second of three sons. Growing up, one of his favorite thingsto do was to “pile up the floor pillows in front of the television set and watchfood infomercials.” You know the ones for the “Magic Bullet” or the countertop chicken rotisserie you can “set it and forget it”. He enjoyed his mother’s6 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

aking, but as he grew into his ownpassion he preferred cooking savorydishes more than following the formulasnecessary for baking. One of Tim’sfavorite childhood memories was whenhis parents took him to the New YorkState Fair and he saw the making of thoseadvertisements up close and personal.Nowadays Tim gets his inspirationfrom cooking shows like Food Network’s“Iron Chef” or “Chopped”. Watching thoseprograms, coupled with his own competitivenature, motivates Tim in the kitchentoday. That and a quest to reproduce a dishhe had overseas that continues to eludehim. But that requires a little backgroundexplanation.Tim came to the North Country in 2006as part of a transition program sponsoredby the military. When he graduated fromhigh school he enlisted in the Army. Hewas active for more than six years and inthat time did two separate tours of dutyin Afghanistan. While overseas Tim hadwhat he calls “some of the most exquisitered beans” he had ever eaten. He claimsthe flavor of the dish must be derived fromthe seasoned pressure cooker they wereprepared in because, try as he might, hesimply can’t replicate the savory legume.But that doesn’t stop him from trying andenjoying the results.When he was settling in to the NorthCountry, Tim enrolled at SUNY Plattsburghand earned his Bachelor’s degree in SocialWork. After graduation he continued toserve his country and his community statesideand he hasn’t stopped there.Tim is currently pursuing his Master’sdegree in Social Work at Springfield Collegeand expects to graduate in 2013. It wouldseem his willingness to serve has no limits.Tim is a father of three: two boys anda girl: Jakob - 10, Taylor - 5 and Tyler - 3.Given the spread in their ages it’s difficultto get all them in the kitchen at the sametime, but one of their favorite things to dowith Daddy is make popcorn. No microwavepackages saturated in coconut oil forthis family. They break out the air popperand the only thing lighter than the kernelsbeing popped is the expression on thechildren’s faces as tidbits of their favoritesnack hit the bowl. Kids are traditionalists—butterand salt for them. Dad, onthe other hand, likes his popcorn with ahealthy dose of hot sauce.For breakfast Tim and the kids like tomake omelets and choose their own fillings.For the kids it’s a whole lot of cheese,One of Tim’sfavorite thingsto make is a“Beef on ‘weck”,a Western New Yorkregional favorite.February 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 7

Blue Cheese and Garlic DipThe stinkier the better. You’re not kissing anyone! Serve this creamy boldflavored dip with crackers, chips, cut vegetables, or spread it on tasty toastpoints.Ingredients3 garlic cloves, minced1 tablespoon olive oil1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened1/4 cup half and half5 slices cooked bacon, crumbled6 ounces crumbled blue cheese2 tablespoon chopped chivesDirectionsPreheat oven to 350 degrees. Sauté garlic in oil until golden. Combine creamcheese with half and half, then stir in bacon, garlic, blue cheese, and chives.Spoon mixture into an oven-proof bowl and bake for 30 minutes or untilwarmed through.Chicken with FortyCloves of GarlicThere are many recipes and many versions of this dish.This recipe is adapted from one I found in the New York Times.Ingredients1 3–4 pound chicken, cut into 8 piecesSalt and freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 tablespoon unsalted butter40 large garlic cloves1/2 cup dry white wine1/2 cup chicken stockDirectionsSeason chicken liberally with salt and pepper. Place oil and butter in a deep,nonreactive skillet or Dutch oven over high heat and add oil and butter. Whenfats are hot, but not smoking, add room temperature chicken pieces skin sidedown and cook until skin turns an even, golden brown, about five minutes.Work in batches, if necessary, and carefully regulate heat to avoid scorchingskin. Turn pieces and brown them on other side for an additional five minutes.Reduce heat to medium. Bury garlic cloves under chicken to make sure theysettle in one layer at bottom of skillet. Sauté, shaking or stirring pan frequently,until garlic is lightly browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Add wine andstock, scraping bottom of pan. Don’t let the garlic burn. Cover and continuecooking until juices run clear when a thigh is pricked, 10 to 15 minutes more.Serve chicken with garlic and pan juices and mashed potatoes.Dump CakeThere is no dessert more fittingfor this occasion. It’s perfect in itssimplicity.Ingredients2 (20 ounce) cans cherry pie filling1 package cake mix (Use yourfavorite one. Just make sureit’s an 18 1/2 ounce package,unprepared)3/4 cup butter, meltedDirectionsPreheat oven to 350 degrees.Dump cherry pie filling into 13 x9 inch cake pan. Spread evenly .Sprinkle cake mix evenly overfilling. Drizzle butter over top.Bake for one hour. Serve in pan.February 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 11

Cotton CandyMartinisIngredients1 ½ oz. ice cold vanilla vodkaMartini glass full of cotton candy…DirectionsShake the vodka with ice and pour over thecotton candy. The candy will melt into thevodka and make a sweet little cocktail.VAUGHAN'S CORNER MARKETCONVENIENCE STORE & DELICome On In & Take A Seat,It's Better Here Than Down The Street!423 Stowersville RoadLewis, NY 12950Dine In & Take Out(518) 873-6719ArtichokeHeartBruschettaIngredients6 1/2 oz. artichoke hearts (marinated,drained and chopped)1/2 cup Romano cheese (grated)1/3 cup red onion (finely chopped)5 Tbsp mayonnaise1 baguette (French, cut into 1/3 inchthick slices)Directions Preheat the broiler. In a medium bowl, mix marinatedartichoke hearts, Romano cheese,red onion and mayonnaise. TopFrench baguette slices with equalamounts of the artichoke mixture.Arrange slices in a single layer on alarge baking sheet. Broil in the preheated oven twominutes or until toppings arebubbly and lightly browned.GENERAL TRADING COMPANY71 Smithfield Blvd., Plattsburgh, NY ▪ www.gtcgifts.comGeneral Trading Company offers a selectionof unique products for you and your home.Treat yourspecialValentinewith candyfrom Godiva,Lake ChamplainChocolates orCandy Man.Mon–Thu 10 to 7 ▪ Fri 10 to 8 ▪ Sat 10 to 6 ▪ Sun Noon to 512 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

If Valentine’s Day doesn’tprovide sufficient inspiration,perhaps one of my favoritekitchen quotes will…“All you need is love. But a littlechocolate now and then doesn’t hurt.”—Charles M. Schulz“After a good dinner one canforgive anybody, even one’s ownrelations.”—Oscar Wilde“Seize the moment. Rememberall those women on the Titanic whowaved off the dessert cart.”—Erma Bombeck“I have made a lot of mistakesfalling in love and regretted most ofthem, but never the potatoes thatwent with them.”—Nora EphronWhile all of these words ofwisdom are interesting, my life’smantra is from one of my culinaryheroes, Chef author—AnthonyBourdain, who said, “Your body isnot a temple, it’s an amusement park.Enjoy the ride.”Seared Duck Breastwith Raspberry SauceValentine’s Day demands being a little bold in the kitchen. And so while duckbreast may not be your usual protein during the week, branch out a little andtry this juicy, meaty alternative. A spoonful of silken red wine gravy studdedwith sweet raspberries is quite a finishing touch!Ingredients2 boneless duck breasts,(Peking or Magret)Salt and pepper to taste1 cup frozen raspberries2 tsp flour1/2 cup red wine1 cup chicken stockSugar to taste (optional)2 servings of polenta, preparedaccording to package directionsDirections Place a cast iron skillet on the stove over medium heat. Trim any excess fat from the duck breasts and score the skin by cutting tinyslashes in a cross-hatch pattern, not too deep. Season both sides well withsalt and pepper and place skin side down in the warm heavy bottom skillet.Turn to high heat and then leave the duck alone. (Duck has a lot of fat andthe secret to succulent duck breast is rendering the fat.) When the duckis well browned on the skin side (3 to 4 minutes), flip and cook 3 minutesmore. Remove the duck from the pan to rest on paper towels. Reserve 1Tbsp. of rendered duck fat in the pan and discard the rest. Heat the rendered duck fat over medium-high heat, add the berries andcook briefly. Stir in the flour and cook to a thick paste. Add the red wineand stir rapidly until smooth. Simmer the thickened red wine to reduce byhalf. Stir in the chicken stock and reduce again. Season to taste with saltand pepper. Finish the sauce with a pat of butter. Slice the rested duck breast and place on top of a serving of the cookedpolenta. Spoon plenty of silky raspberry sauce on top.Whatever your motivation, getin the kitchen and be creative. Youwon’t regret it!February 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 13

On the TownDeer’s Head InnBy Amy KretserMatt & Joanne BaldwinNestled in the Adirondack’s charming Elizabethtown is a piece of history datingback to 1808. The Deer’s Head Inn was once the annex of a vibrant resort hotelbuilt to accommodate the demands of those who vacationed for entire summersin the Adirondacks. For over 200 years, the Deer’s Head has served the peopleof Essex County and anyone traveling through the region including presidents GroverCleveland and Benjamin Harrison. The widow of abolitionist John Brown stayed at theInn while her husband’s body was across the street being prepared for burial. The registry,which is still part of the Inn today, contains the signatures of the aforementionedguests as well as all who make the trip to this lovely restaurant.14 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

Hardwood-Smoked TroutOwners Matt and Joanne Baldwin lovethe history that resonates within the wallsof the enchanting restaurant. When myhusband and I embarked on a bit of a destinationdate-night, we were fortunate tohave the opportunity to speak with themabout the Inn. Joanne explained her personalconnection to the building. “I grew uphere and when I was a little girl, my familyused to come here all the time. I was friendswith the daughter of the owners and weused to sneak sodas from the restaurantand drink them out back.” Joanne remembersfondly the artists, particularly RuthRumney, whose paintings hung throughoutthe restaurant.Exposed wooden beams line the ceilingin each room and gorgeous wallpaperhas brought the rooms new life. Joanneand Matt have worked tirelessly to keepthe integrity of the history intact. Joannesaid, “I looked at a lot of pictures when wewere renovating the inside.” She showed usthe vintage silverware that came with thebuilding when they bought it in 2006. Sheexplained, “We found all kinds of amazingthings when we took over.” She handedmy husband an old silver spoon. Ty wassurprised. “Wow. It’s very heavy. They don’tmake them like that anymore!” He pointedout the maker, Oneida Manufacturing, andthe engraved Deer’s Head Inn on each pieceand asked if they still used them in the restaurant.Joanne said, “We did at first, butsadly, at the end of every night, we realizedpeople were taking them as souvenirs.”Matt Baldwin took some time from hisposition at Head Chef to tell us about therestaurant and the evolution of the menu.Matt and Joanne, who is also a chef, met atculinary school, and both have a propensityfor developing deliciously creative dishes.Matt said the key to operating a successfulrestaurant is to know your clientele. “Whenwe first opened, we were inclined to preparefood we thought people should wantto eat. We tried to make every meal special,”he said. Matt explained that there arestandard dishes that people simply alwayswant to see on the menu. And so while heand Joanne include some delicious specials,they continue to offer the mainstays thatpeople order regularly.Ty and I left it up to the experts todetermine our meal and the experiencewas delightful. We began with a platter“The key to operatinga successfulrestaurant is toknow your clientele.”—Matt BaldwinFebruary 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 15

On The TownCrab CakesServes 2Ingredients8 oz cooked lump Back Fin crab meat2 oz finely diced red onion2 oz finely diced red pepper2 oz finely diced yellow pepper2 tsp Old Bay Seasoning½ tsp chopped fresh dill¼ tsp black pepper¼ tsp Kosher salt3 dashes of Worchestershire Sauce2 dashes of Tabasco4 oz mayonnaiseBread crumbsCornmeal to dust cakesDirections Combine all ingredients accept the bread crumbs and cornmeal in a largebowl. Avoid over mixing in order to keep the crab meat in lumps. Slowly add the bread crumbs until the mixture is dry enough to work with. Make two (2 oz) patties and dust them with cornmeal. Set aside. In a sauté pan, place enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom. Heat the oiluntil it begins to smoke slightly. Place patties in and fry on both sides until golden brown. Place on a papertowel to dry.of hardwood-smoked trout served withtoasted rye points, capers, red onions, anda tangy horseradish dill sauce. We alsoindulged in crab cakes, which were finishedwith pickled cumbers, mango chutney anda Cajun remoulade. They were wonderfullymoist and flavorful.Joanne and Matt have their hands fullwith their business, considering the manyways they have expanded in the last fiveyears. Joanne described the catering side ofthe Deer’s Head Inn. “I was a personal cheffor the Lucy Family for years, and I reallyenjoyed that work. I still offer my servicesfor private events.” If you want to host aholiday or anniversary party, Joanne willwork with you in your home to develop amenu. Then she does the shopping, preparesthe meal and cleans up afterword.The restaurant caters all manner offunctions from gorgeous mountainsideweddings to business luncheons. Howthey manage all of that while keepingtheir restaurant running at full capacity16 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

Local ProducerAdirondackChocolates By Gordie LittleMove over, Willie Wonka. There is a bustling chocolate factory and retail shopon Route 86 in Wilmington that will make you swoon. It’s called AdirondackChocolates, formerly Candy Man, and you can visit with your family towatch the chocolates being made. Then you can look through the well-stocked glasscandy case and try to decide from over 100 different items. You can also take a shortdrive to Lake Placid to visit the Adirondack Chocolates retail store located on MainStreet or shop their website from the comfort to your home.20 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

“Always fresh, always delicious and made with a love forthe honest, pure taste of chocolate.” —Cortland Forrence and Joe Doughertyitems as T-shirts, gourmet spaghetti sauce,maple syrup, jams, jellies, preserves, dressings,locally-roasted coffee and much more,all made in the Adirondacks.Cortland said he is especially proudof the expanded kitchen in Wilmingtonand the large window that allows visitorsto view the entire candy-making process.Joe explained that they buy high qualitychocolate bricks in bulk and purchaseabout 40,000 pounds of raw ingredientsper year. They buy top quality almonds,cashews and other nuts in large quantities.His partner said, “We make all ourown jellies and creams from scratch forour candy and it’s always done in a big copperkettle.” Joe added, “Our fudge is alsocooked in the copper kettle that came tous with the store and we still use it overan open flame.”Watching the process of candy makingis fascinating. The chocolate bricksare melted. Then the liquid is tempered inlarge machines. Cortland explained, “Wehave a huge enrobing machine about fifteenfeet long. Enrobing simply means tocoat the product both on top and on thebottom. For example, we might load pretzelson a conveyor belt that travels into themachine. It goes through a wall of chocolateand what is called a bottomer that putschocolate underneath. Once the product iscoated, we might decorate it by hand withwhite chocolate. Then it goes into a coolingtunnel for a few minutes. When it comesout the other end, it’s ready to put on theshelf for sale.”Before investing in the new and muchlarger enrobing machine, the partners saidthey had to move the finished candy intoa special cooling room where it sat for upto 90-minutes before it could be boxed andput on the shelves.Wholesale is a growing part of theAdirondack Chocolates business. Currentlythey distribute to Boston, New York Cityand many metropolitan centers up anddown the East Coast. Joe emphasized,“We sell to gourmet shops in numerousareas, but only to a couple places inthe Adirondack region. Our items aresold at the General Trading Company inPlattsburgh and Apple Blossom Floristin Peru.”Production and sale of chocolatescontinued to be brisk during the recenteconomic downturn. Joe observed, “Peoplegive up lots of things when times get tough,but not their treats.” He joked, “I always say,alcohol and chocolates are recession proof.”Adirondack Chocolates does a lot of corporatebusiness in gift baskets as well asother gifts, especially at holiday time. Bothmen agreed that they expect the gift basketpart of their business to expand in thecoming year. As for their very busy Internetbusiness, Joe explained they usually havethree people working just to fill ordersduring the holidays.Adirondack Chocolates areshipped all over the world.Corporate gifts make up a goodshare of the business. “A numberof local companies comein here and ship 100, onepoundboxes of chocolates.One local company sendsout hundreds and hundredsof our boxes of chocolateseach year,” Joe said, “Wehave a customer inNew Jersey whoorders up to22 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

Local Producer625 boxes every Christmas. We want to seethat part of our business grow even more.All holidays are busy for AdirondackChocolates, but Valentine’s Day is one ofthe busiest of them all. Asked if they havea signature product the partners agreedthat almond bark is one of their biggestsellers. Other specialties are the handdippedpretzels, almond butter crunch,hand-dipped coconut or mint patties, turtles,cherry cordials, fudge, and nonpareils.They explained that since changing theirname to Adirondack Chocolates, they arenow coming up with regional names formany of their products.Cortland stressed the high quality ofall their candy products. “A lot of candystores don’t make their own chocolateslike we do. When you come to Wilmingtonand actually watch it happen, you can seethat we make it all fresh, with first rateingredients.”You might pose the age-old question:Is chocolate really an aphrodisiac? Sufficeto say that, for Cortland Forrence and JoeDougherty, chocolate is their passion. Theirpromise? “Always fresh, always deliciousand made with a love for the honest, puretaste of fine chocolate.”...the new face of CandymanOur boxed assortments are a classic favorite.Order online in time for Valentine's Day!www.adirondackchocolates.comor visit our chocolate factory & retail shop.Retail Shop: 61 Main St., Lake Placid, NY1-800-232-4626Chocolate Factory and Retail Shop: 5680 NYS Rte 86, Wilmington, NYFebruary 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 23

SoupsMaximizeYour Return –Rely on a Tax ProfessionalBy Katy LaValleyShelley FracaloSSiBA, BS, MA, RTRPBy Appointment(518) 561-151735 Years ExperiencePersonal / BusinessE-File / Fast FundsWalk-ins WelcomeOpen daily12 BRinkeRhoff STReeTPlATTSBuRgh, nY 12901PLATTSBURGHMEDICALCARECheck your heartfor the one you love.Call today forCardiac Risk Assessment.Buttternut BisqueCream of Blackened Chicken with Tortellini! Customers loved soups with tortellini, butthere were hazards. The wait staff gobbled them up faster than Hungry Hippos gobblethose marble things. All the old school restaurants were big on soup and they preferredclam chowders and other safe, white, classics.Clam chowder was a given on many menus. At one lakeside place it was made withbasil, something I often argued with the kitchen manager about. I just didn’t feel basilbelonged in clam chowder, but now I think he had it right after all. I sometimes evenget a bit of a craving for the taste of it. Or maybe I am craving a taste of working downby the marina again.Walk in:Monday-Thursday 9:00 A.M.-6:00 P.M.Friday 9:00 A.M.-5:00 P.M.Saturday 9:00 A.M.-1:00 P.M.Appointments:Monday-Thursday 9:00 A.M.-8:00 P.M.Friday 9:00 A.M.-5:00 P.M.675 Route 3Plattsburgh, NY 12901(518) 566-0672www.pmedcare.comFebruary 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 25

The following simple soup is both unusual and comforting. Garnish with garliccroutons, bits of crisp bacon or even just a dusting of smoked paprika.Cauliflower Fennel BisqueIngredients1 head any color cauliflower, separated into florets1 large yellow onion, chopped4 large cloves garlic, minced1/3 cup fennel seeds1/4 cup olive oilSalt and pepper1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)Directions Sauté the onions and garlic in the olive oil in a four-quart sauce pot until softand lightly colored. Add the fennel seeds and the florets. Just barely cover the florets with water, add one teaspoon salt and simmeruntil the florets are very soft – about 45 minutes. Process with an immersionblender to the desired texture. I like this soup fairly smooth. Adjust seasoning.You may add the heavy cream for an extra special touch.3083 Rand Hill RoadP.O. Box 275 Altona, NY(518) 493-6300Gift Certificatesavailable forValentine’sDayGuma’s Restaurant“Pleasing you is our pleasure, Serving you our satisfaction”Treat your sweetheart to something specialthis Valentine’s Day!We will be serving Prime Rib & Shrimp Scampi7577 Route 22West Chazy, NY 12992(518) 493-4194GANIENKEH WHOLISTICHEALTH CENTERLook Good. Feel Good.Live Longer.• ChiropraCtiC Care• NaturopathiC• NaturophathiC CareAsk aboutour banquetfacilities!Visit our remedy room for all your vitamins and minerals,plus a complete line of vitamins and minerals!My favorite restaurant soup experiencewas when Captain Frank Pabst taughtme to make gazpacho. It was thrilling fora teenage foodie to actually make andserve something so exotic. He used a reallyauthentic recipe too.One soup I had many requests for, butrefused to make, was the popular cheeseburgermacaroni. I also refused to usecanned soup as a base for the “homemade”house soup like SOME people did. I knew amanager that used to buy cans of tomatosoup because, as he said, “You can use it foreverything.” Yes, and it will all taste likecondensed tomato soup.In the ‘90s, I worked at a popular, nowdefunct downtown restaurant that serveda soup called Beanie Weanie. It was madeby heating up baked bean and then addingwater and hot dogs sliced into coins.Sometimes a little garlic powder wasthrown in. It all added up to what my friendMark called “A Bad Bean Experience”.Happily, it is possible for soup to be bothdelicious and convenient. In spite its flaws,Beanie Weanie has a lot in common withthe soups I like to make now: ones thathave a minimum of ingredients, are easilyput together and are able to be cooked andserved quickly. Don’t think it takes all day,and a laundry list of ingredients, to makea fabulous and fresh soup.As an avid gardener with unlimitedgrowing space, two huge chest freezersand a root cellar, I have at my fingertipsjust about any vegetable I could want forany kind of soup. Since the quality is high,I can afford to keep things simple and letthe veggies shine. My family especiallyloves corn chowder made with just onionssautéed in butter, potatoes, corn, salt, andmilk. I even make a soup with only homecannedtomatoes, cooked noodles, butter,milk, and salt. It is simple, but vibrantbecause of the fresh tomato flavor.However, not everyone has a garden orprocesses food the way we do. And so, inthe winter, finding the perfect produce for asoup that showcases a particular vegetablecan be difficult. Root vegetables and winter26 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

North Country Soupssquash are good choices at this time of year,also cruciferous vegetables like broccoli,cauliflower and kohlrabi can be tasty andoffer high quality even in the early spring.I avoid using meat stocks for soups thatshowcase vegetables. In my opinion it isunnecessary and even detrimental to theflavor of vegetable soups. Pay attentionas well to how long you cook a vegetablebasedsoup and remember that tender isgreat, but over long cooking will kill thefresh taste.ButternutBisqueIngredients3 lbs peeled, seeded and sliced to1/2 inch thick winter, squash.(I use Sunshine, which is aKabocha variety.)2 large yellow onions,peeled and diced4 large garlic cloves, minced1 medium red pepper, diced1/4 cup olive oilSalt and pepperDirectionsIn a four quart sauce pot, cook theonions, peppers and garlic on lowheat, stirring often, until soft. Addthe sliced squash and water to justbarely cover. Add two teaspoonssalt, cover and simmer on low heatuntil the squash is tender (about ahalf hour). At this point you mayprocess the soup with an immersionblender or simply mash it witha potato masher for a more rustictexture. If it seems too watery,simmer uncovered for a few moreminutes. Adjust salt and add pepperto taste and add a pinch of groundnutmeg. I serve this with a swirl ofhomemade hot pepper relish andcroutons browned in bacon fat, butadditions are not needed as thissoup really stands alone.Batter BreadIngredients2 cups boiling water1 Tbsp Montreal steak seasoning1 tsp salt2 Tbsp brown sugarNote: Extending either of the bowl rising timesimproves the flavor and texture of this bread.Directions Measure seasoning, sugar and oil into a deep heat-proof mixing bowl. Pourin boiling water and stir briefly. Let cool to lukewarm. Add the yeast and 2cups of flour. Beat with a fork for 30 seconds. Cover the bowl with plasticwrap and set aside for at least 45 minutes. Then mix in the remaining flourand stir vigorously for about one minute. The dough should be very soft.Cover and set aside for at least another 15 minutes while you preheat youroven to 450 degrees. When the time is up, prepare a 12 x 17 inch sheet pan by rubbing oil on itwith your hands. With your hands still covered with oil, scrape the doughonto the pan and smooth out as best you can. You will need more oil so yourhands don’t stick. Try to get it as even as possible, right to the sides of thepan. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the surface of the dough and let rise for10 more minutes before baking. It should be done in 10 minutes. Remove thebread from the pan right after baking—I put it on a large cutting board—trim the edges off. Cut as desired and enjoy.SpaHairMassage#12 Plattsburgh PlazaPlattsburgh, NY 12901518.561.5958www.zeinas.com2 1/4 tsp granulated yeast orone packet dry yeast1 Tbsp olive oil plus more for pan3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour1-2 Tbsp shredded Parmesan cheesePamper your Valentinewith a spa day!• Manicures• Pedicures• Facials• Body Wraps• Massages& more!For every $50 youspend on spa services,you get an extra $5 inspa services FREE!Gift certificates availableFebruary 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 27

In Search of thePerfect Loaf of…BreadBy Carol Blakeslee-CollinWhat areartisan breads?The perfect loaf of bread: what is it? Is it Dogwood’s seeded baguette that we atewith ripe, creamy cheese on an evening cruise on Lake Champlain two summersago? Maybe it’s the first taste of Anthony’s warm French bread on a wintryFriday night? When I think of a perfect loaf of bread I can’t forget my mother’s sourdoughcheese bread toasted and served with butter and rhubarb jelly, or the crustyloaves we bought each morning during my college year in Madrid. It still amazes me28 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

Give the gift of relaxation this Valentine’s Day!My location or your location. Call for details!Gift CertificatesAvailablethat flour, water, yeast, and salt in the proper proportions transforms into wonderful,delicious loaves of bread. Besides these four basic ingredients, making bread comesdown to the manipulation of time and temperature which gives the grain its fullestflavor potential. The problem and the wonder is that there are so many variables. Sincehuman beings have been baking leavened bread for at least 6,000 years, I find writingabout bread and becoming a link in a chain thousands of years old quite humbling.Paws and Relax With...Charmain Fenoff, LMTand “Charm’s Hands” Therapeutic MassageCosmetologists:Aimee Adams & Kristine Felton524-6520208 Water StreetElizabethtown, NYHair ~ Make-up ~ Manicures ~ PedicuresGel & Acrylic Nails ~ Waxing ~ MassageTanning ~ Gift ShopFebruary 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 29

During the last few decades, we have experienced a quiet breadrevolution with the appearance of artisan bread on store shelvesand in markets throughout the country. Google defines “artisan”as a high quality, hand-crafted bread containing no artificialingredients or preservatives. In my research, I am discovering thatWEST SIDE BALLROOM, INC.Banquets, Weddings,Conferences & Any Occasions,On-Site Catering, Business Seminars,Retirement Parties, Sit Down or Buffet,Competitive PricingAccommodates 350WDashnawjr@primelink1.net(518) 324-4777www.westsideballroom.net253 New York Road, Plattsburgh, NY“artisan” has more to do with the way the bread is made than theform. In other words, ordinary white bread baked in a loaf panqualifies if it is handmade and developed slowly in small batches.The movement started as a reaction against commercial breadbakingwith lots of yeast and dough conditioners to make largemass-produced quantities in a hurry. Low leaven and long fermentare the two critical keys to artisan baking.In the North Country, one of the best destinations forartisanal bread is in Essex County hamlet of Wadhams. PhilMerrick learned the craft of baking bread in Southern Californiain the mid 90’s with Frederick Holmshaw. In 2001, he moved east,found an old feed store in Wadhams, built a wood fired oven, andopened Merricks Bread and Coffee. There he baked baguettes,sourdough, seven-grain, olive, jalapeno-cheddar, and otherspecialty breads.In 2007, Keri Fair called Phil from Purcellville, VA for adviceabout how to build an oven in her backyard so she could makebread for a farmers’ market. That same year Phil met and fallenin love with Burlington artist Jodi Whalen. He ended up sellingthe bakery to Keri and her family, moved to Burlington andopened another bakery, August First. Keri renamed the Wadhamsbakery Dogwood.The oven Phil built at Dogwood Bakery is a retained heatmasonry bake oven. The revival of this ancient technology hasspawned an elite class of baking ovens that turn out breads withespecially thick, flavorful crusts and moist interiors that areimpossible to make in a conventional oven. At Dogwood, the ovenis fired the afternoon before baking with plank slab wood froma local mill. By 5 am the next morning the wood has turned toash. After cleaning out the oven, Keri and her crew start bakingat a temperature of 600 degrees. The oven’s high grade bricks,cement and ceramic insulation maintain a near constant temperaturefor hours.When I arrived for a night of mixing in early January the bakeryhad been closed for the holidays and the temperature was afrigid one degree outside. Wood is used to heat the whole place and it30 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

The Perfect Loaf of Breadwas so cold thatKeri had firedb o t h o v e n sand the starterwas warmingver y slowly.Since bakinggreat breadcomes dow nto manipulatingtimeand temperatureto controlthe outcome,t h e a b i l it yt o respondand adjust to external conditionsreveals the skill of the baker. Most bread bakers will tell you thatit is also what makes the craft fun and challenging. The challengeon that mixing night was definitely temperature.As the room warmed, Keri’s helper, Mike, began mixing flourand water in a large electric mixer, but only for three minutes.Then he let the mixture rest for fifteen minutes. This “rest” iscalled autolyse and is widely used by artisan bakers to give theflour more of a chance to absorb the water evenly, creating adough with a higher moisture content and more open “crumb”in the finished bread (crumb being the bread’s interior texture).The rest also makes the dough less sticky and easier to stretch.Once rested, Mike added the starter and mixed the dough for sixmore minutes.According to master bread baker, Peter Reinhart, fermentationis the single most important stage in the creation of greatbread. Going through my old pastry chef recipes from the late1960’s, I discovered I used much more commercial yeast than isthe norm today. Remember low leaven and long ferment are twokey components in artisan bread baking, especially the leavencreated by the natural fermentation of flour and water whichtransforms (with patience) a lifeless lump of clay into a livingorganism. This type of fermentation uses bacteria in the environmentand is commonly referred to as sourdough starter butis more correctly called “wild yeast starter”. The degree of sournessis strongly influenced by the strain of wild yeast and thebacteria present and can be kept alive for a long time – evencenturies. Besides a sourdough starter, Keri uses two other agentsto leaven or raise her dough: the first being a standard commercialyeast. Yeast mixed with water feeds on the simple sugars ofglucose in the wheat flour and creates carbon dioxide which raisesthe dough. The second, poolish, is used in the Dogwood baguettes.It is a powerful tool that is a mix of equal parts flour, water anda little yeast that has already undergone some fermentation.Convene, Connect & Celebratewww.meetingslakeplacid.comFebruary 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 31

“Fermentation is the single most important stagein the creation of great bread.” —Peter Reinhart, Master Bread MakerLimited edition cupcakes availablenow through Valentine’s Day.Call or stop by to order!24 City Hall Place, Plattsburghwww.irisescafe.com324-4100“A Place to MeetOld Friends and New”5453 Peru StreetPlattsburgh, NY 12901Try our limited editionValentine’s Day cupcakes!Featuring:Death By Chocolate • Raspberry Chocolate TruffleClassic Red Velvet • Chocolate Covered StrawberryDelivery available.clean uP wIthwasher saVIngsRoute 3 • Plattsburgh & Water Street • Elizabethtownwww.wilsonappliances.comValentine’sDayDon’t forget your reservationsDinner Menu Featuring:Steak & shrimpBaked Stuffed HaddockChicken Cordon BleuPasta PrimaveraMeals will include:House SaladDessertFor details ask your serverPhone: (518) 561-3091Fax: (518) 561-3092geoffreyspub.comCalled a pre-ferment, poolish is combinedwith more yeast and extends the fermentationtime, allowing more flavor to developfrom the complex wheat molecule. Poolishis thought to be named for the Polish bakerswho taught the French the techniquecenturies ago.Picture the bread-baking process asa race against time in which the maximumamount of sugar is released givingbread its flavor and color while keepingenough starch to maintain good texture.To accomplish this drama, Peter Reinhartuses twelve stages or steps. Baking guruRose Levy Beranbaum describes ten. I lostcount watching Keri and her crew, but hereare their steps: mixing (including autolyse),raising (proofing) and turning the dough,dividing and preshaping the dough, restingthe dough, final shaping and panning, asecond proofing or rise, baking which alsoincludes scoring the dough and steaming,then cooling, storing and of course eating.I was particularly surprised by therole steam plays in one of the last phases,the baking. At Dogwood, there is a gardentypehose with a spray attachment next tothe oven opening which Keri occasionallyuses to spray steam onto the bread bakinginside. As the temperature of the breadrises, the surface of the dough dries andbegins to form a crust. The sprayed steamdelays the formation of the crust so thedough can expand to its fullest capacity.The steam also condenses on the dough,breaking down carbohydrates into sugarsthat allow the crust to brown better. Nexttime you taste a good loaf of artisan bread,think of those many stages.The problem and the wonder of breadbakingis there are so many variables. Breadis like our lives – impossible to control andimpossible not to love.In the next article we will look at theimportance of good flour, the rise ofheritage grains and visit another greatbread baker.32 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

ChefyDuke’s A KINGCall for take out’s CornerSIZEDBy Chris Duquette TREAT!DinerFREE DELIVERYCALL (518) 563-51348 Tom Miller RoadPlattsburgh, NY 12901Hours: Mon-Fri: 7am - 2pm • Sat-Sun: 8am - 2pmTo all the future chefs of the North Country, it’s that great time of year forsports fans with the tail end of football season and the start of NHL Hockeyseason and while college and NBA basketball are in full swing. Whether you’rehaving a weekend sports fiesta at home or a family and friends fun event, this simplerecipe will delight even the toughest crowd.Using simple, inexpensive ingredients,we can create some of the most delectabledishes. We can all agree bacon makesmost things taste better! This month’srecipe is no exception. Smooth, creamy,smoky, with a little kick—this Bacon-Jalapeno Dip will be your winning score!Until next month, Bon Appétit!ChefyLet us cater your event!Bacon-Jalapeno DipIngredients8 oz cream cheese2 cups shredded cheddar cheese½ cup sour cream¼ cup milk4 slices cooked bacon1 Tbsp bacon drippings1 tsp white wine vinegar2 thinly sliced jalapenos½ cup bread crumbsDirections Mix all ingredients (except breadcrumbs) in a bowl. Spread in a 8 or 9” baking dish Top with bread crumbs Bake at 350 degrees until golden brownand bubbly, approximately 30 minutes.February 2013 | strictlyfoodforthought.com 33

Your RecipeOur KitchenSubmitted by Delores VivianLava Cakes(Makes 6)8 ounces chocolate chips1/3 cup flour1/3 cup sugar3 eggs4 Tbsp butter Set oven to 400 degrees F. Melt butter and chips in microwave (approximately 30 seconds). Stir in flour, sugar and eggs. Butter and sugar muffin tins. Pour in batter and bake 10-12 minutes. Let cool then flip onto flat surface. Serve with ice cream.Also good with fresh berries and whipped cream.Have your favorite recipe featured here. Submit your recipe to editor@strictlyfoodforthought.com34 Strictly Food for Thought | February 2013

Amore MenuDinner for 2Call aheadfor reservations(518)310-3200103 Margaret Street,DowntownPlattsburgh(Available Valentine’s Day through Sunday, February 17th)Includes:Choice of any appetizer on the menuChoice of One Greek EntreeGreek SteakChicken Kabob PlateFalafel Salad PlatterandChoice of One Italian EntreeFra DiavoloChicken BrunelloShrimp Scampi(All entree’s include a house salad and breadand a glass of house wine or draft beer)For DessertCheesecake withChocolate Covered StrawberriesOnly $45

12 Nepco WayPlattsburgh, NY 12903CHANGE SERVICE REQUESTEDTreat your sweetheart to a wonderful dining experience.Call us today for our specialValentine’s Day reservations.Ask aboutour monthlytheme nights.7552 Court Street, Elizabethtown, NY(518) 873-6514Check out our menu online: www.thedeersheadinn.comFull ServiceCateringAvailableSubscriptionOrder FormName:__________________________________________________________________________________________________Address:________________________________________________________________________________________________City_______________________________________________State:___________Zip Code:____________________________Send this order form with your check or money order for $22.95 (U.S.) or $27.95 (Canada)for a one year subscription. Please make checks or money orders payable to: The Northeast Group.Mail to: 12 Nepco Way, Plattsburgh, NY 12903.