Xeriscape Design Concepts for Large Lots - Rdosmaps.bc.ca

About This PublicationThis manual is a publication based on the Large Lot Xeriscape Design Workshop heldon November 14, 2009 for the West Bench Irrigation District. It closely follows the outlineof the Workshop (see Table of Contents, facing page), while keeping within the scope of theLarge Lot Xeriscape Design Project Terms of Reference.It is written and presented specifically for the residents who live:(1) on the large lots of the West Bench area of Penticton, BC and(2) use water purveyed by the West Bench Irrigation District.However, anyone wishing to explore xeriscaping will find the manual beneficial,particularly if large lot sizes or highly erodible or silty soils are a concern on their property.Soil conditions similar to those of the West Bench occur in various locations within theRegional District of the Okanagan-Similkameen, the City of Penticton, and the District ofSummerland. They are also known to exist in other parts of the BC Interior such asKamloops, Princeton and Prince George.Xeriscape Design Concepts for Large Lots: Solutions to the Challenges of Landscaping on theWest Bench is not simply a “How to Xeriscape” manual. It also includes information on howto manage and reduce the risks of hazardous soil erosion on the West Bench.To get the full benefit of the colour in this publication, it is best to download and saveit on your computer. If you choose to print the document, use a colour printer and8.5” x 11” paper (Letter size). To reduce paper use, print on both sides, if possible.This icon represents a particular design consideration or implementationprocess that can result in considerable cost-saving when converting a large, WestBench, landscaped lot to xeriscape.This icon represents information or ideas that are particularly helpful to owners oflarge West Bench properties.This icon represents a method to reduce erosion of West Bench soils.This icon represents a special Tip or Idea.Cover Photo:Native Plant Bed, Grasslands NurseryPage 2

Table of ContentsIntroduction ............................................................................................................................................ 4Xeriscape on the West Bench ................................................................................................................. 51 Planning and Design................................................................................................................ 6Planning Considerations, The Base Plan......................................................................... 6Design Considerations ..................................................................................................... 7Tips for Low-Maintenance Design ................................................................................... 72 Soil Analysis and Amendment ................................................................................................ 8Soil Variability, Amending the Soil ................................................................................. 83 Practical Turf Areas................................................................................................................ 10Conserving Resources on Your Turf Area..................................................................... 10How to Remove Turf...................................................................................................... 114 Plant Selection ....................................................................................................................... 15Grouping Plants by Water and Sun Requirements....................................................... 15“Spread the Word — Not the Weed” ............................................................................. 165 Efficient Irrigation ................................................................................................................. 17Irrigation Design, Zones ................................................................................................. 17When to Water ............................................................................................................... 18Watering Frequency........................................................................................................ 18Soil Penetration .............................................................................................................. 18Watering New Plantings................................................................................................. 18Irrigation Systems............................................................................................................ 21Automatic Timers and Monitoring Weather ................................................................ 24System Maintenance and Water Audits......................................................................... 246 Mulch ..................................................................................................................................... 25Benefits of Organic Mulch ............................................................................................. 26Using Rock Mulch.......................................................................................................... 26Costs and Coverage ........................................................................................................ 26Mulching Tips................................................................................................................. 267 Maintenance........................................................................................................................... 27Managing Run-off from Roofs and Driveways ..................................................................................... 28Steps to Harvesting Rainwater................................................................................................... 28Tips ............................................................................................................................................. 29Driveway and Roof Runoff........................................................................................................ 29Landscape Features to Capture, Distribute and Infiltrate Water............................................. 30Plant List for the West Bench.......................................................................................................... 31-35Locally Invasive or Potentially-Invasive Species.................................................................................... 35Resources ............................................................................................................................................... 36Bibliography ......................................................................................................................................... 38Index .................................................................................................................................................... 39Page 3

IntroductionThe hazardous soil conditions of the West Bench area of Penticton have been detailedin numerous studies since the 1960’s. The most notable of these was done in 1992 byKlohn Leonoff: West Bench/Sage Mesa Area Geological Hazards Review. The report advises thathigh groundwater loads from settlement have contributed to and continue to create thepotential for hazardous subsurface erosion due to the high silt content of the soils. This takesthe form of slumping bluffs as well as subsurface piping and can lead to a number of deleteriouseffects, including damage to homes, roads and other utilities.The majority of the recommendations from the 1992 Klohn Leonoff report have beenimplemented on the West Bench and environs at the regulatory level, and are aimed atreducing groundwater loading including:• a moratorium on additional septic systems through prohibiting furthersubdivision of land in the area• monitoring leakage of pools and water systems.In addition to reducing slumping and erosion of the high silt content lacustrine soils onthe West Bench, implementing xeriscape has a number of other positive effectsincluding:• mitigation of climate change impacts on water supply• reduced water use by residents in anticipation of water metering• efforts to realize cost savings through reduced power consumption• reducing the rate of deterioration on water supply infrastructure and associated costsavings.The West Bench Irrigation District Board felt a timely opportunity existed to addressanother recommendation of the report, specifically:“Dry land landscaping is beneficial, particularly for residents living near the edgeof bluffs. Irrigation water added for lawns and gardening can be detrimental togeologic stability.A process of educating all residents of the potential hazards and their associatedrisks, along with methods of mitigating these problems, could go a long way toreduce the occurrence of subsurface erosion caused by development.”The Large Lot Xeriscape Design Workshop, held November 14, 2009, was the first steptoward education. The Workshop was attended by a cross-section of West Bench residents,and industry and government representatives. This Manual, Xeriscape Design Concepts forLarge Lots: Solutions to the Challenges of Landscaping on the West Bench, is a compilation of theinformation, discussion, and findings of the full-day Workshop.Page 4

Xeriscape on the West BenchThe West Bench Irrigation District has identified several factors that make large lotxeriscaping a strong option to consider in the West Bench area:• reduced water use minimizes the hazards associated with the erosion of silty soils• water conservation helps to mitigate the effects of climate change and developmentpressures• the lessened water demand will save costly upgrades to the pump house and pipelinesresulting in the reduction of water bills• xeriscape reduces the power and water costs which will become evident when watermeters are installed in the next 2-5 years.The word ‘xeriscape’ ('zir-ə-skāp, 'zer-ə-skāp) originates from the Greek word xeros, meaning“dry”. Definitions abound for the term but they all have one thing in common: conservingwater in the landscape.There are many reasons to xeriscape:• water use can be reduced by more than 50%Dryland landscaping• reduction of erosion hazards on sensitive soilsis beneficial,• lower water use = lower maintenanceparticularly for residentsliving near the• eliminates use of toxic pesticides and herbicides• a tangible, enjoyable way to reduce your impact onedge of bluffs.our environment• low-water native selections provide food and habitatfor South Okanagan birds, butterflies and beesIrrigation wateradded for lawns and• a xeriscape will survive restricted water use during gardening can bedrought conditions.detrimental toXeriscape follows seven established principles. Generally,each principle builds on the one previous to it; strive to geologic stability.”achieve the full benefits of xeriscape by implementing all1992 Klohnseven steps:Leonoff Report1 Planning and Design 5 Irrigation2 Soil Analysis and Amendments 6 Mulch3 Practical Turf Areas 7 Maintenance4 Plant SelectionPage 5

1Page 6Planning and DesignEighty percent of the 351 rural resident lots occurring in the West Bench are .5to .75 acres; the remaining 20% are larger. For this reason, a good plan and xeriscape designis especially critical to West Bench residents. The finished design:• can save a lot of time and money• makes it easier to budget and complete the project over several years• allows you to accurately compare estimates from landscape contractors• makes you really think about how you use your landscape…and how you could use it• will make your xeriscape materialize in an organized manner.Do your own planning, then have a landscape designer review your final plan.If your project runs two years or more, plant the trees and large shrubs first. You’llwant to enjoy the benefits of trees (for example, cooling effect, reduced greenhousegases) as soon as possible. And, it’s much easier and less costly to move perennialsand small shrubs should the need arise!Planning ConsiderationsHere are a few things to think about when planning your xeriscape:• Site — sun/shade; wind exposure; slopes; rocky areas; drainage; moisture; trafficnoise, etc. It is particularly important on the West Bench to recognize the silty soilsbecause of their erosion hazard, low permeability, and low organic content. Alsoconsider the site’s proximity to bluff edges, gullies and sinkholes.• Use — youngsters; out-of-doors entertaining; vegetable garden; pets; sports;outbuildings; water catchment and dispersal, etc.• View — from inside the house or from a deck; screening.• Microclimates — sun path; cold troughs; windy areas; dry or moist shade.• Grade — always ensure the ground slopes away from your house.The Base PlanAfter measuring the site, including elevations, draw a base plan to scale. Include:• residence, outbuildings, patios, telephone poles, lot boundaries, septic field• water flow• slopes and natural features, e.g., creeks, rock outcrops, existing vegetation• scale, North arrow, name, addressTake some pictures of your site as well.

Design Considerations• Wildlife — attract (birds, butterflies, bees) or repel (deer, horses, bear)?• Zonal Planting — group plants with similar water and light needs.• Lawn — how much and where?• Hardscape — fences, patios, paths, etc.• Water feature — pond, pondless waterfall, bubbler, rain garden.• Service areas — storage shed, kennel, space for garbage cans, etc.• All season colour — evergreen trees and shrubs, ornamental grasses, bulbs, groundcoversand perennials, deciduous trees and shrubs. Think about berries, foliage andbark colour as well, not just flowering colour.• Native plants — no plant material is more adapted to our semi-arid environmentthan native species.• Lighting or other electrical needs.Tips for Low Maintenance Design• consider low-water lawn seed mixes, groundcovers and meadows• use evergreen trees and shrubs• use native plants and drought-tolerant plants that grow well in Bench soils• plant in the fall• use mass plantings• allow room for mature shrubs and trees• use perennials (vs. annuals), naturalizing bulbs and ornamental grasses• use organic mulch to cover bare ground between plantingsWant some other ideas? Take part in a Meadowlark Festival ‘Xeriscape GardenTour’ held every year in May.Landscaping information is widely available at public libraries and online (seebibliography). Whenever possible do it yourself, but know when to hire aprofessional, for example, with installation of rockwork, patios, and focal features.Recycle materials and make use of natural or existing features already on yourproperty, for example, rocks, rock outcroppings, or native plants.Page 7

Lacustrine soilswith high siltcontent (>80%)occur throughoutthe benchlands of theOkanagan,especially in thePenticton area,and are highlysusceptible tosurface andsubsurfaceerosion andslumping,predominantlytriggered bygroundwaterloading.Page 9

3Page 10Practical Turf AreasMost lots on the West Bench consist primarily oflarge lawns. Although there are benefits to having a lawn inyour landscape, large lawns have their drawbacks. They arecostly to establish and maintain — on the pocketbook, onyour yard time, and on the environment. As you redesignyour landscape ask yourself, “How much turf do I reallyneed?”Conserving Resources on Your Turf Area1. Keep your Kentucky Bluegrass lawn, but ...• reduce the square footage• change your watering habits (see page 23).• “Gold is the New Green”: let the lawn go dormant(brown) in the hot summer months.Domestic waterdemands fluctuatethroughout the yearwith maximumdemand beingexperiencedduring the summer,primarily due to lawnsprinkling.”2005 WBID DroughtManagement Plan2. Remove lawn and reseed with a low-water variety• try a blend of fescues (‘Eco-Lawn’ or ‘Enviroturf’),buffalo grass, or a buffalo grass/blue grama grass combination.• consider hydroseeding with a custom seed mix if you wish to reseed a large area• low-water alternatives can be mowed or left to grow tall, forming a meadow.Reseeding or overseeding lawn areas is less expensive than having turf installed.3. Overseed existing lawn.• use a more drought-tolerant species (see ‘2’ above)• prepare the existing lawn by: either (1) adding 3-4 inches of topsoil, or (2) cuttingthe existing lawn as short as possible then use a power rake to roughen the turf andexpose soil so the seed can germinate• overseed repeatedly over 2-4 years until the old lawn has been replaced.Note: This is a great option for retaining organic nutrients in your soil.4. Eliminate turf completely (see page 11).• use an alternative groundcover (wooly thyme, kinnikinnick, creeping juniper)• Replace with other xeriscape options such as mixed planting beds or pervioushardscape..

How to Remove TurfThe prospect of removing a large amount of turf from the yard can be intimidating.However, because reducing the amount of conventional lawn is the single, most effective wayto reduce water consumption, a number of ways to do so are included. In keeping with yourxeriscape plan, you can convert portions of your property one year at a time.Sod CutterA sod cutter is a gas-powered machine that is maneuvered much like a rototiller. Theheight (depth of the cut) of the blade is adjustable. Sod cutters can be rented from localrental centres.Work together with your neighbours. After each landowner has determined wheregrass will stay and where it will not, the group can hire a crew to remove five or sixlawns over a weekend. If you organize a work party, the contractors can remove theturf as West Bench neighbours are loading it into a dump truck for composting atthe landfill. In exchange for turf, perhaps you can make an arrangement with thePenticton Landfill for free compost to replace the organic material removed by thesod cutter.Credit: Toni BootAdvantages- Removes most of the existing grass roots.- Removes a thick layer of weed seeds.- Lawn can be removed quickly.Disadvantages- Very hard, heavy work.- Removes the organic, nutrient-rich layer of soil.- Must remove sod under trees by hand to avoid rootdamage.Other Comments- If you have underground irrigation, mark the sprayers to avoid damage.- Exercise care when using a sod cutter on slopes or uneven ground.- Cut the grass before you begin; remove the turf when it is not too wet.- Try cutting in a diamond pattern; the turf is very heavy.Page 11

Other Comments on Sheet Mulching- Do not use sheet mulching over septic drainage fields.- If your West Bench turf is healthy extra care must be taken to remove turfwhere plants are to be planted (Step 1), or to delay planting until the turf isthoroughly biodegraded (Step 4).- If you are installing a drip irrigation system for the transformed area, place thetubing on top of the weed barrier, and beneath the surface layer of mulch.Soil SolarizationSolarization is accomplished by completely covering an area with clear or black plasticduring July and August. The intense heat that builds up under the plastic kills the turf andsprouting weeds.Photo: Lesley FieldAdvantages- Easy to do.- Does not remove organic matter ornutrients from the soil.Disadvantages- Can cause an anaerobic effect, killingvaluable microorganisms in the soil.- Heavy winds can displace the plastic. Anchorit with stones or wood.- Is unsightly.Other Comments- Mow the grass as short as possible and water well before covering with the plastic.The combination of heat and water introduces a fungus that speeds up turfdecomposition.Page 13

RototillThis method takes some patience, as you need to rototill several times. Between eachtilling, let the lawn sit four to six weeks to allow the grass and weeds to re-sprout.AdvantagesDisadvantages- Easier to maneuver than a sod - Area may be disrupted forcutter.several months.- Keeps the nutrients and organic - Cannot rototill near treematter in the soil.roots.- Can damage the soil structure.Other Comments- Do not rototill if you have bindweed(Convulvulus arvensis, see right) in your turf, orany noxious weed that propagates by rhizomes.- Unless you are certain your underground irrigationsystem is deeper than the tines of therototiller, do not use this method.- Mark sprinkler heads of underground irrigationbefore beginning (see note above).- Be prepared to spend time raking and levelingthe tilled area.Spray with HerbicidesIf you are planning to overseed or reseed your existing turf, this method is an option toconsider closely. Use a mild herbicide, such as glyphosate (trade name ‘Round-up’) or‘Eco-Clear’, a blend of acetic and citric acids. Always follow the label directions closely.AdvantagesDisadvantages- Little labour involved. - Herbicides are expensive.- Kills weeds and turf. - May need several applications- Keeps the nutrients and organic to kill some perennial weeds.matter in the soil.Other Comments- Residential use of herbicides by other than certified pesticide applicators iscurrently being reviewed in BC.- Both recommended sprays are post-emergent, foliar products; they only work onactively growing vegetation.Page 14

4Plant SelectionSelecting the right plant for the right location is very important. There is an extensivelist of plants suitable for the West Bench. The list, found on pages 31-35 includes plantsthat thrive in silty soils, control erosion and/or are resistant to deer. They are all winterhardyto zone 5 and grow in dry to low-water conditions.When selecting plants for your site it is also important to consider sun and wind exposure.Plants can also be selected for their practical purposes. Forinstance, shallow-rooted plants, such as grasses and certain herbaceousperennials, are good choices over septic drainage fields; like-Create an‘oasis in thewise taller plants can create shade or provide screening. Remembergrassland’.trees are an important part of xeriscape: they provide shade andhave a cooling effect on the home and the landscape.Grouping Plants by Water and Sun Requirements (Zonal Planting)Picture your lot as an ‘oasis in the grassland’: the area closestto your house (Zone 3) is the most lush and full. Thiszone includes small turf areas and vegetable gardens. Furtherfrom your house, but not on the peripheral of yourproperty, is Zone 2 which contains low-water plants thatbenefit from occasional drip irrigation. Zone 1 is furthestfrom your house and contains only those plants that do notrequire supplemental irrigation, once established. This is anexcellent area to consider a native plant garden or habitatrestoration. As you are selecting plants, decide in which ofthe three zones the plant will do best, based on its needs.Zone 1 requires the least amount of watering and the least amount of maintenance.On the large lots of the West Bench, this zone should be the largest zone.Conversely, Zone 3, which requires the most care and watering, should be keptsmall and practical.Zone 1 Dry ‘Natural’Zone 2 Low-Water ‘Transition’Zone 3 Moderate Water ‘Oasis’Hand water until establishedMicro/drip irrigationMicro/drip irrigation (exceptfor turf area).Page 15

Purchasing plants to fill a large-lot can become very expensive. Here are some tips forobtaining plants on a low budget:• Start your own plants from seed or trade xeriscape seeds, plant divisions andcuttings with friends and neighbours. Have an annual plant trade day.• Salvage native plants (with permission) from lands scheduled for development.• Buy plants in the fall when they are usually at a discounted price.• Bulk purchase plants together with neighbours; prepare beds before buying.• Check with local nurseries to ask if they custom grow large orders.• Buy your plants in the smallest sizes possible, such as in plugs. They are lessexpensive and will more easily adapt to your soil conditions.• Ornamental grasses and perennials are cheaper than shrubs and trees.• Buy plants from the discount section of the nursery.• For large areas or slope stabilization, choose native plants that spread.• Plant perennials instead of annuals—you don’t have to replace them every year.“Spread the Word — Not the Weed”The Invasive Plant Council of BC states that, among other problems, invasive plantshave the potential to decrease natural biodiversity and wildlife habitat, lower property values,and hinder aesthetic appeal.Simple Ways Gardeners Can Help:• Choose plants wisely. Be suspicious of plants promoted as “fast spreaders” or“vigorous self-seeders.”• Do not purchase or grow invasive or legislated noxious weed seeds or plants.• Dispose of invasives carefully: don’t ‘recycle’ garden debris or compost. Properlydispose in trash bags for a local disposal facility/incineration, or by drying out anymaterial to kill remaining vegetative parts.• Avoid letting invasive plants fruit or set seed, as birds and animals can spread theplants to other areas. Remove flowers, seedpods, and berries of invasive plants.• Avoid using exotic wildflower seed mixes.• Avoid picking plants from roadsides, gravel pits or other disturbed areas.• Discourage propagation of invasive species by friends and neighbours.• Limit soil disturbance and cover bare soil on your property.• Get involved with local efforts to control invasive plants.• See page 35 for a list of locally invasive or potentially-invasive weeds.• RDOS and the Invasive Council of BC have additional information and pictures.(See Resources, page 36.)Page 16

5Efficient IrrigationWest Bench Irrigation District’s Drought Management Planstates that during winter months, typical water demands are inthe order of 490 m 3 per day. In summer, the irrigation demandincreases twenty-fold to 10,000 m 3 per day. The maximumsummer demand is primarily due to lawn sprinkling. By simplyconverting to efficient irrigation practices landowners can see adramatic reduction in water use.Excessive irrigation not only wastes a valuable resource, itcan lead to soil saturation or groundwater loading. This additionalwater can be enough to increase the likelihood of pipe andsinkhole developments or a major erosion event such as landslide.… increasedinfiltration raisesthe water tableso that asmaller triggeringevent, suchas higher thanaverage rainfall,is required toinduce alandslide.”1992 KlohnLeonoff ReportStart with a Good Irrigation DesignAn irrigation system must be well designed and installed bya licensed irrigator in order to be efficient and cost-effective. It isimportant to review the West Bench irrigation bylaws and toensure that proper backflow prevention devices, valves and connectionsare installed. The South Okanagan has many professionals certified by the IrrigationIndustry Association of BC to help you design and install an irrigation system thatworks for you.Start with a xeriscape plan, then hire a professional to cap unusable or unnecessaryportions of the underground system, and install a controller that allows for properwater usage. From there, it is relatively simple for the homeowner to refitsprinklers to micro or drip systems for xeriscape zones. For best results, hire a certifiedirrigation professional who understands how to irrigate a xeriscape.ZonesGroup your plants according to their watering requirements (see pg. 15). Not only willthis save water, it will prevent the need for complex or costly irrigation systems.Page 17

When to WaterYou should only water your landscape when necessary. Keep an eye on your plants andsoil moisture to know when to water. This will vary depending on the current weather,recent rainfall, time of year, and your specific soil types.Generally, the leaves of shrubs and perennials will begin to droop, and lawn grass willleave footprints when dry. If the top inch of soil next to a plant feels dry when you wiggleyour finger into it, this is another sign that water is needed. You can also use a shovel or asoil probe to determine how dry the soil is.It is best to water when the weather is cool, dark, humid and windless. At night or earlyin the morning before sunrise are optimal times. Irrigation during these times also helps toreduce interference with daytime household water and energy demand.Watering FrequencyFor xeriscape plants, it is important to water deeply and infrequently. Soaking the soilto the bottom of the root-zone encourages roots to grow into deeper soil, instead of spreadinginto drier surface soil. Wait until the soil partially dries out before watering again.Watering Depth and RateSoil Type Penetration depth of 1” of Infiltration rate of waterwater (inches)(inches /hr)Clay 4-5 1 / 10 to ¼Silt/loam 6-8 ¼ to ¾Sand 12 -14 1-2Soil PenetrationFor typical West Bench silty soils, one inch of water penetrates 6-10 inches. Siltysoils should be watered at a rate of approx ½ inch per hour. More than this maylead to surface run-off and can lead to serious erosion problems Visible puddlesare a sign that the watering rate is too high; water pressure should be turned down,or watering should be spread over a series of cycles. Run-off monitoring isespecially important on slopes.Page 18

Watering New PlantingsNew plantings must be watered regularly until deep roots are established — the first yearfor shrubs, and 2-3 years for trees. Water deeply, to the bottom of the root zone.Irrigation SystemsIrrigation systems can range from simply hand-watering your plants with a watering canor hose nozzle, to complicated underground systems with timers and soil sensors. The mostefficient irrigation systems use nozzles that apply water directly to the soil in the root zone ofthe plants needing water, with the least loss of water by evaporation. Low-flow systems, suchas “micro” or “drip” irrigation are very efficient.Micro IrrigationMicro irrigation is highly recommended for xeriscape landscapes. This system includesa flexible supply tube that lays on the soil surface, with individual emitters that supply eachplant. Landowners interested in this system can consult with local irrigation suppliers forinformation before starting a project.Benefits of Micro Irrigation• existing underground irrigation can easily be converted to drip or microirrigation• very inexpensive, and extremely adaptable• less water is lost to evaporation; this is especially important for windy areas• emitters can be adjusted to the water requirements of each plant as it grows• do-it-yourself landowners can easily purchase and install these systems• irrigation timers and sensors can be included, but are not required• well-suited system for plant beds in the low- and moderate-water zones• the system is above ground, therefore leaks can be easily detected.Page 19

BeforeAfterAfter Photos: Kevin DunnPage 20

AprilJuneSeptemberBefore After Photos: Toni BootPage 21

Basic Irrigation Schedule for Drip Irrigation Systems in West BenchPlant TypeVegetablesand annualsPerennialsSmall shrubs3-5 ftLarge shrubsor small trees5-10 ftMature trees10-25+ ftRootdepth(in.)Avg.waterneedsApril, May, Oct June, Sept July, AugHoursDays/weekHoursDays/weekHours Days /week4-8 Mod 2 1 3 2 4 38-1212-2418-3024-36Low 1.5Every2 wks.2.5 1 2.5 2Mod 2 1 3 2 4 3Low 3Every2 wks.4 1 4 2Mod 4 1 5 2 6 3Low 5Every2 wks.5 1 5 2Mod 6 1 7 2 8 3Low 5Every2 wks.6 1 6 2Mod 6 1 8 2 10 3• These are general guidelines. Needs vary depending on weather, flow rates and soil.• Figures based on ½ gph (gallons per hour) for perennials, 1 gph on shrubs, 3 gphon large shrubs and 6 gph on mature trees.• For automated systems, spread your daily allotment over 3 cycles during the day.Watering By HandFor many garden areas, complex irrigation is not necessary, and hand-watering ormoving sprinklers will suffice. Plants in the dry or natural zone should not require regularirrigation once they are established. Simply handwater these plants during the first year ofgrowth, then water only when necessary during extremely dry conditions in following years.Smaller gardens, plants close to the house, or feature trees can also be watered by hand.Page 22

Hand or Sprinkler Watering for Larger, Mature PlantsPlant TypeRootdepth(in.)Small shrubs3-5 ft 12-24Largeshrubs/small 18-30trees 5-10 ftMature trees10-25 ft 24-36Avg. April, May, Oct June, Sept July, AugwaterneedsGallons TimespermonthGallons TimespermonthGallons TimespermonthLow 5 0-1 5-10 1-2 5-10 1-2Mod 5-15 1 10-20 2 10-20 2-3Low 20-30 0-1 20-40 1-2 20-50 1-2Mod 30-60 1 30-60 2 30-60 2-3Low 100-150 0-1 100-150 1-2 100-150 1-2Mod 150-200 1 150-200 2 150-200 2-3• These are general guidelines. Needs vary depending on weather, flow rates and soil.• Determine the flow rate or your sprinkler or hose by submerging the sprinkler ornozzle in a large bucket of known volume. Time how long it takes to fill the bucketto determine your flow rate in gallons per minute or gallons per hour.Lawn IrrigationConventional sprinklers or underground irrigation are the normal systems for lawnirrigation. There are also nozzles for micro irrigation systems suitable for small turf areas.Application RateLawns benefit from approximately 1” of water for every irrigation. To determine howmany minutes you need to turn on your sprinklers:• place straight-sided containers, such as tuna cans, around your lawn• turn on the water for 15 minutes• determine the average depth of water, in inches, in the containers• calculate your flow rate in inches/minute: (avg. depth of water divided by 15 min.)• to obtain 1 inch of irrigation, divide the number “1” by your flow rate. This is howlong you need to turn on your sprinklers to saturate the lawn to root depth.Pooling water indicates the application rate is higher than the infiltration rate; adjust yoursystem accordingly.The lawn should then be allowed to dry out a little between watering. Generally, oncethe grass starts to lay flat, or footprints are left in the lawn when you walk across it, then it istime to irrigate again.Page 23

Recommended Watering Frequency for West Bench LawnsGrass TypeAvg. RootDepthWaterNeedsNumber of irrigations per month1-inch of water per irrigationApril, May, Oct June, Sept July, AugBuffalo grass 6-8” Very low 0-1 1 1-2Fescue (Ecolawn orEnviroturf)ConventionalBluegrass lawn6-10” Low 1 2 2-33-6” Moderate 1-2 2-4 3-4• These are general guidelines. Needs vary depending on weather, flow rates and soil.Automatic Timers and Monitoring WeatherIrrigation systems with automatic timers can help to reduce water use, but only if theyare adjusted regularly to prevent overwatering. Remember these systems are only as efficientas the person who sets the timer! It is important to monitor your landscape and the weatherregularly so that you can reduce irrigation when there is sufficient rainfall. Soil moisturesensors and shut-off devices can be installed to do this automatically. Visit www.farmzone.caand www.irrigationbc.ca for up-to-date, local weather information.System Maintenance and Water AuditsYour irrigation system should be monitored regularly to ensure proper functioning andapplication rate. A yearly irrigation water audit by yourself or a contractor includes:• checking for leaks and making sure valves open and close properly• ensuring sprinklers are upright and the arc is correct• clearing or changing blocked nozzles• ensuring water is not falling on pathways, patios or driveways• application rate is appropriate• timers and sensors are functioning and set properlyAdditional Thoughts in Reducing Irrigation in the West Bench• have water purveyor set up automatic systems• install dole valves and flow restrictors at each property• stagger the water fees (once meters are installed), based on water usage.Page 24

MulchWest Bench lacustrine silt is low in organic matter. When mulch is applied to thistype of soil, the increase of organic material: (1) enhances water absorption, and (2) slows therate of infiltration. Both these benefits reduce the risk of erosion.Mulching is one of the best things you can do to ensure the health of your plants. Thereare two general types of mulch: organic and inorganic.Organic mulches consist of plant materials, such as: shredded bark, wood chips, chipperdebris, sawdust, wood shavings, dry grass clippings, pine needles, evergreen boughs, peatmoss, straw, compost, newspaper, shredded paper, leaves, and leaf mold. Inorganic mulchesconsist of non-living materials, such as: plastic, woven fabrics, pea gravel, river rock, crushedstone, and shale.Benefits of Organic Mulch• limits reflectivity, keeping plants cooler and resulting inless evaporation• absorbs and retains water around root zones• protects and insulates soil from freezing in winter• controls erosion by slowing down rainwater• reduces the loss of bare topsoil to wind• safeguards against soil compaction and crusting• builds soil, improving organic content and nutrients• reduces weed growth and seed germination• becomes a design element, giving the landscape a ‘finished’look• some mulches help acidify alkaline soils, such as coffeegrounds, evergreens, pine needles, and sawdust.Page 25

Inorganic MulchInorganic mulches are long lasting and are good for high traffic areas such as pathways.However, they can be hard to clean, expensive and difficult to weed.Keep in mind that rock mulch, particularly in our hot Okanagan summers, can createan additional stress on plants because of its tendency to both absorb and reflect heat, increasingtemperatures around your plants, your home and your neighborhood. The increasedheat results in a higher evapotranspiration rate, which leads to higher water demands. If youplan on installing rock mulch, you are recommended to keep these features small.Costs and Coverage• Recommended depth of mulch is 2 inches for finemulch to 4 inches for rough mulch.• One cubic yard covers 108 sq. ft. in 3 inches of mulch.• The cost of organic bark mulch ranges from $25 to $60per yard ($0.25 – 0.60/sq. ft).Mulching is oneof the bestthings you cando to reduce soilerosion.Mulch can be a major expense in creating new landscapes. However, it is possibleto obtain some mulches for free. Some free materials include grass clippings, pineneedles, leaves, chipper debris, cardboard and newspaper.Mulching Tips• The best time to add mulch is just after planting. Top-up existing mulch in the fall.• Locate flammable mulches such as pine needles, straw and evergreen boughs awayfrom wooden walls and fences. Once organic mulches have aged and flatteneddown, they are much less flammable.• Do not bury stems or trunks of trees, shrubs, and woody perennials; this avoids pestor fungal problems.• Mulch containing strips of bark or different size chunks tends to knit togetherbetter to withstand wind.• Plastic landscape fabric under organic mulch is not recommended. Plastic preventswater infiltration and weeds will eventually grow through this layer. If troublesomeweeds occur in this area, consider sheet mulching.• It is always best to cover bare soil with mulch, even if you are not ready to plant.This will save weeding time.• Extremely dry soil plants such as cacti, succulents, and artemesias are sometimesbetter left without mulch.Page 26

7MaintenanceLarge West Bench properties can be time-consuming and costly to manage.Although every landscape requires some maintenance the advantage of xeriscape is thatmuch less time, money and resources need to be expended to keep your landscape beautifuland healthy.Irrigation• Perform watering system audit. See page 24.• Monitor for signs of erosion caused by irrigation leaks or run-off.• By overwatering your landscape, plants stay healthy and require less care.Lawn Care• Fertilizing a low-water lawn should only be done once annually, in the spring.Lightly topdress your lawn with compost or a nutrient-rich soil.• Overwatering and/or overfertilizing conventional lawns necessitates more frequentmowing, dethatching and aerating. Reducing both cuts down on your maintenancetime.• A healthy lawn is naturally more resistant to weed growth.Weeding• Stay on top of weeding. This task is much reduced when mulch has been applied.Pruning• Prune out dead, diseased and damaged limbs.• Trees should be pruned when they are dormant.• Proper watering and fertilization practices, and allowing room for mature species,can virtually eliminate the need to prune.Fertilizing• For the most part, xeriscape plants do not requirethe application of fertilizer, particularly if you’veamended the soil.• Do not fertilize native plants.Mulching• Top up mulch when necessary.Photo: Grasslands NurseryPage 27

Managing and Using Rainwater RunoffRainstorms can be few and far between in the arid Okanagan Valley. However, whenthey do arrive, the rapid flow of surface waters can cause serious erosion problems in theWest Bench area such as gully erosion, underground piping, sinkhole formation, andlandslides. Sudden rainfall is often viewed as a hazard, but with a few simple preparations,rainwater can be turned into a valuable resource for landscape irrigation.Steps to Harvesting RainwaterBegin with long and thoughtful observation.• Observe where the water flows, where it collects, where it drains away, and where itdrains from. This informs you of your resources and challenges. Build on what isworking and change what isn’t.Start at the top of your property or house, and work your way down.• It is easier to harvest water at the top where it is more manageable. Then use thefree power of gravity to distribute harvested water to areas down slope.Start small and simple.• Small, simple systems of an appropriate scale are easier to create and maintain thancomplex, extensive systems. Start with a rain barrel off one downspout or create aberm around a large tree where runoff occurs.Slow, spread, and infiltrate the flow of water.• A zigzag pattern calms the flow of water to reduce destructive erosion and increasesthe time and distance the water flows. This will improve infiltration into the soilfrom the high point to the low point. For example, creating a system of small bermsor terraces on steep slopes helps to slow flow of water.Always plan an overflow route and manage that overflow as a resource.• You can’t turn off the rain once your water-harvesting earthworks and cisterns arefilled up, so always be prepared for overflow into the surrounding landscape.Create a living sponge.• Maximize planting of appropriate vegetative groundcover and spread organicmulch over the surface of the soil to create a “living sponge”. As roots expand andsoil life increases, the soil’s ability to infiltrate and hold water steadily improves.Continually reassess your system.• Monitor the success and failures of your rainwater systems. If necessary, makechanges using the above steps to guide you.Page 28

Tips• Do not infiltrate water within 10 feet of a buildingfoundation.• Always check for underground utility lines beforedigging.• Harvest water into the moderate-water or oasis zone,where the plants need it most.• Make sure land slopes away from all buildings.• Don’t move large quantities of soil; instead, workwith the existing landscape forms.• Direct downspouts or rain barrel overflows ontohigh points, so that gravity can be used to distributethe water throughout the site via berms and basins.Driveway Runoff• Reduce the amount of impervious, paved surface on your property.• Slope pavement to drain into vegetation alongsidedriveway.• Cut grooves or create small speed bumps to divertwater towards plantings.• Use small berms alongside driveway to catch andhold water around plants.• Install drain tile or a French drain at the bottom ofa long slope in the driveway to divert water to thesides rather than onto the main road.• Consider installing porous surfaces for driveways and paths such as gravel, recycledasphalt, porous asphalt, open-jointed blocks or turf blocks.• Reduce the driveway to two narrow strips for vehicle tires.Roof Runoff• Install rain barrels at the bottom of downspouts to hold water for irrigation on drydays. Be sure to install an overflow route for water.• If downspouts empty onto steep, erodible slopes, install a rock spillway (dry creekbed) or pipe to carry water to your landscape.• Install rain chains instead of downspouts.Illustrations: Joe MarshallPage 29

• Use a perforated pipe on the end of downspouts to distribute water away from thehouse and towards plantings.• Install 3-4 pop-up drains per downspout, which distribute roof runoff onto yourlandscape.• Install a green roof to absorb and slow down rainfall while moderating the temperatureof your home.Landscape Features to Capture, Distribute, and InfiltrateRainwaterBerms and BasinsA system of small berms and basins, also known as ‘ditchand swale’, can be used on moderate slopes to slow, disperseand allow water to infiltrate the soil. A berm generally followsa contour line of a slope, or forms a boomerang shapeto hold water around a specific plant. A basin consists of adepression in the ground that catches water and allows it toinfiltrate the soil. Basins usually contain deep-rooted plants tosoak up the rainwater, essentially functioning as a ‘rain garden’.TerracesA terrace is a flat shelf of soil built parallel to the contour of aslope, creating flat planting areas. These are typically used forsmaller gardens on steep slopes.SpillwaysSpillways carry water from downspoutsor overflow areas towards collection basins. Spillwaysshould be lined with plastic and artfully covered with rock toform an attractive dry creek bed, thus adding a designelement to your landscape.French DrainA French drain is a plastic-lined basin or trench filled with angular gravel. This allowswater to infiltrate quickly, while creating a stable surface on which to walk. French drainscan be used to carry water away from non-porous surfaces tocatch basins surrounding shrubs and trees.Illustrations: Joe MarshallPage 30

PLANT LISTPLANT NAME= Dry = Low-Water SS = Silty Soils EC = Erosion X = DeerNote: “x” in a column means suitableSS EC X PLANT NAME SS ECXNATIVE GRASSESGreat Basin Wild RyeElymus cinereusIdaho FescueFestuca idahoensisNeedle and Thread GrassHesperostipa comataJunegrassKoeleria macranthaBluebunch WheatgrassPseudoroegnaria spicatumSandberg's BluegrassPoa secundax x xx x xxxxx x xx x xNATIVE PERENNIALSYarrow Achillea millefolium x x xNodding OnionAllium cernuumxxPearly EverlastingAnaphalis margaritaceax xKinnikinnickArctostaphylos uva-ursix x xPasture Sage Artemisia frigida x x x xWestern MugwortArtemisia lucovicianaxxShowy MilkweedAsclepias speciosax x xTufted White Prairie AsterAster ericoidesx xArrow-leaved BalsamrootBalsamorhiza sagittatax xSulphur Flowered BuckwheatEriogonum umbellatumx x xParsnip-flowered BuckwheatEriogonum heracleoidesx x xNATIVE PERENNIALSSnow BuckwheatEriogonum niveumBrown-eyed SusanGaillardia aristataPrairie Smoke Geum triflorumGolden AsterHeterotheca villosaxRound-leaved AlumrootHeuchera cylindricaxBitterroot Lewisia rediviva xBlue Flax Linum perenne x xx x xSilky Lupine Lupinus sericeus x xShrubby PenstemonPenstemon fruticosusxNATIVE SHRUBSSaskatoonAmelanchier alnifoliaBig SagebrushArtemisia tridentataRed Stemmed CeanothusCeanothus sanguineusSnowbrushCeanothus velutinusRabbitbrushChrysothamnus nauseosusWolf WillowEleagnus commutataOcean SprayHolodiscus discolorCommon JuniperJuniperus communisxxxxxx x xx x x xx x x xxxx x x xx x xxxxPage 31

PLANT NAMESS EC X PLANT NAME SS ECXNATIVE SHRUBSOregon Grape HollyMahonia aquifoliumx x x xMock OrangePhiladelphus lewisiix x x xShrubby CinquefoilPotentilla fruticosax xAntelope BrushPurshia tridentataxxSmooth Sumac Rhus glabra x xWaxy Currant Ribes cereum x x xPrairie Rose Rosa woodsii x x x xBlue ElderberrySambucus caeruleax x x x xSoopalallieShepherdia canadensisx x x xSnowberrySymphoricarpos albusx x x xNATIVE TREESDouglas Maple Acer glabrum x x xRocky Mountain JuniperJuniperus scopulorum x x xPonderosa PinePinus ponderosax x xChokecherryPrunus virginianaxxDouglas FirPseudotsuga menziesiixxXERISCAPE BULBSCrocus Crocus x x xSnowdrop GalanthusGrape Hyacinth Muscari x x xDaffodil Narcissus x x xxXERISCAPE BULBSPrairie Crocus/PasqueflowerHeterotheca villosaxScilla Scilla siberica x xTulip TulipaXERISCAPE VINESJackmanii ClematisClematis jackmaniiWhite ClematisClematis ligusticifoliaGolden ClematisClematis tanguticaGrape Vitis x x xXERISCAPE GRASSESBig BluestemAndropogon gerardiiBulbous Oat GrassArrhenatherum bulbosumBlue Grama GrassBouteloua gracilis‘Karl Foerster’ Feather ReedGrassCalamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl’Foerster’XERISCAPE GRASSESNorthern Sea OatsChasmanthium latifoliumxxxxxxxxxxxx x xFescue Festuca x x x xBlue Oat GrassHelictotrichon sempervirensxxBlue Hair GrassKoeleria glaucaxMaiden Grass Miscanthus x x xxxxxPage 32

PLANT NAMESS EC X PLANT NAME SS ECXXERISCAPE GRASSESSwitch GrassPanicum virgatumPerennial Fountain GrassPennisetum alopecuroidesHardy Pampas GrassSaccharum ravannaeLittle BluestemSchizachyrium scopariumAutumn Moor GrassSesleria autumnalisPrairie DropseedSporobolus heterolepisMexican Feather GrassStipa tenuissimaXERISCAPE PERENNIALSHyssop Agastache x xxxxxxxx x x xx x xHollyhock Alcea rosea x x x x‘Mountain Gold’ AlyssumAlyssum montanum ‘Mtn. Gold’xMt. Atlas DaisyAnacyclus depressusxWindflower Anemone sylvestris x x xPussytoes Antennaria x xThrift Armeria maritimaSage varieties Artemisia x xAster AsterxHardy GazaniaGazania linearisxCranesbill Geranium x x x x xRock RoseHelianthemum numulariumx xMaximillian SunflowerHelianthus maximillianiixxXERISCAPE PERENNIALSBasket of GoldAurinia saxatilisxFalse IndigoBaptisia australisx x xPoppy Mallow/WinecupCallirhoe involucrataxBellflower Campanula x xCupid’s DartxCatanache caeruleaBlue Leadwortx xCeratostigma plumbagnoidesLarge-flowered Coreopsisx x xCoreopsis grandiflora‘Zagreb’ Threadleaf Tickseedx x xCoreopsis verticillata ‘Zagreb’Hardy Iceplant Delosperma xPinks Dianthus x x xDragon’s Head Dracocephalum xPurple ConeflowerEchinacea purpureaDaisy Erigeron species xBlanket Flower (variety)xGaillardia grandifloraDaylily Hemerocallis x xCandytuft Iberis semervirens x xIris Iris x x x xTorch Lily KniphofiaEnglish LavenderLavandula angustifoliaShasta DaisyLeucanthemum x superbumDotted GayfeatherLiatris spicataxxxx x xxxxx x xPage 33

PLANT NAMESS EC X PLANT NAME SS ECXXERISCAPE PERENNIALSCatmint Nepeta x x xOzarks SundropxOenothera macrocarpaPenstemon (most)Penstemonx xRussian SagePerovskia atriplifoliaxxFleeceflower Persicaria affinis x xPhlox (some species) xPhlox subulataRosemaryxRosemarius officinalisGloriosa Daisy Rudbeckia hirta x xSage (many species) Salvia* x x x xAlpine SkullcapScutellaria alpinaxStonecrops Sedums x xHen and Chicks Sempervivum xThyme Thymus x xWooly VeronicaVeronica pectinatax x x x‘Golden Sword’ YuccaYucca filamentosa ‘G. Sword’xxSoapweed Yucca glauca x xXERISCAPE SHRUBSJapanese Barberryx x xBerberis thunbergiiBluebeard/Blue Mist Spirea xCaryopteris x clandonensisSmokebush Cotinus x xCotoneaster Cotoneaster x x xEuonymus (some varieties)Euonymus*xxXERISCAPE PERENNIALSApache PlumexFallugia paradoxaForsythia Forsythia x x x xBroom GenistaJuniper Juniperus x xHoneysuckle (shrub varieties) xLoniceraNinebarkPhysocarpos opulifoliusx xMugho Pine Pinus mugo x x x xStaghorn Sumac Rhus typhina xCurrant/Gooseberry Ribes x xRed Leaf Rose Rosa rubrifolia x xRugosa Rose Rosa rugosax xDwarf Arctic WillowSalix purpurea ‘Nana’x x xLavender CottonxxSantolina chamaecyparissusBridal Wreath Spireax xSpirea x vanhoutiiLilac Syringa x x x x xWeigela Weigela florida x x xXERISCAPE TREESMaple (some varieties) Acer* x x xWestern RedbudCercis occidentalis‘Paul’s Scarlet’ HawthornCrataegus oxycantha‘Paul’s Scarlet’Green AshFraxinus pennslvanicaxx x xx x xx x x xPage 34

PLANT NAMEXERISCAPE TREESMaidenhair TreeGinkgo bilobaxSS ECHoney Locust Gleditsia x xGolden RaintreeKoelreuteria paniculatax‘Colorado Blue SprucePicea pungens ‘Glauca’xxLondon Plane TreePlatanus x acerfoliaxGambel Oak Quercus gambelii xGreenspire LindenTilia cordatax x xWayfaring TreeViburnum lantanax x x xXPhoto: Grasslands NurseryxLocally Invasive or Potentially-Invasive SpeciesBaby's Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)Bachelor's Button (Centaurea cyanus)Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii)Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)Common European Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)Common Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)Common Periwinkle (Vinca minor)Common Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)Dalmatian Toadflax (Linaria genistifoliaspp dalmatica)English Ivy (Hedera helix)European Mountain Ash (Sorbus aucuparia)Hawkweeds (Hieracium spp.)Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum)Hoary Alyssum (Berteroa incana)Hound's-tongue (Cynoglossum officinale)Invasive Knotweeds (Fallopia or Polygonum spp.)Knapweeds (Centaurea spp.)Leafy Spurge (Euphorbia esula)Old Man's Beard (Clematis vitalba)Oxeye Daisy (Chrysanthemun leucanthemum)Puncturevine (Tribulus terrestris)Purple Deadnettle (Lamium amplexicaule)Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)Reed Canarygrass (Phalaris arundinacea var. picta)Rush Skeletonweed (Chondrilla juncea)Russian Olive, Oleaster (Elaeagnus angustifolia)Scotch Broom (Cytisus scoparius)Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides)Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila)Silver lace vine (Polyganum aubertii)Sulphur Cinquefoil (Potentilla recta)Tamarisk, Saltcedar (Tamarix ramosissima)Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)Velvetleaf (Abutilon theophrasti)Wild four o'clock (Mirabilis nyctaginea)Yellow or False Lamium (Lamium galeobdolon)Yellow Starthistle (Centaurea solstitialis)Page 35

ResourcesResources (also see Bibliography)Bennett, Jennifer. Dryland Gardening:Plants That Survive and Thrive in Tough Conditions.Richmond Hill, On. Firefly Books Ltd. © 2005.Bonnemaison, Tamara. Native Plant Landscaping for the South-OkanaganSimilkameen. Osoyoos Desert Society, Osoyoos BC. 2008.Dunnett, Nigel and N. Kinsgsbury. Planting Green Roofs and Living Walls. Timber Press Inc.Portland, Oregon. © 2008Ellefson, Connie, T.Stephens, D. Welsh. Xeriscape Gardening: Water Conservation For TheAmerican Landscape. MacMillan Publishing Company, © 1992.Hansen, Juergen and Jacquie Tapping. Gardening in the Okanagan. Okanagan Past andPresent Society 4 th edition, Summerland. © 1995Lang, Susan. Garden Watering Systems. Sunset Publishing Corp., CA, © 1999Rummary, Mark. The Dry Garden: A Practical Guide to Planning and Planting. Sterling Publishing,New York. © 1995Soderstrom, Neil. Deer Resistant Landscaping. Rodale Inc. New York. © 2008Springer, Lauren. Waterwise Gardens. Prentice Hall General Reference. 1994Taylor, Jane. Drought Tolerant Plants: Waterwise Gardening for Every Climate. Prentice HallGeneral Reference, New York. © 1993Taylor's Guide to Water-Saving Gardening. Boston: H. Miflin. 1990.Weinstein, Gayle. Ortho’s All About Dry Climate Gardening. Meridith Books, Des Moines, IL.© 2004Xeriscape Color Guide: 100 Water-wise Plants for Gardens and Landscapes. Ed., David Winger,Denver, CO. Fulcrum Pub. 1998.Page 36

Sampling of Xeriscape WebsitesOkanagan Xeriscape Association http://okanaganxeriscape.orgSummerland Ornamental Gardenshttp://www.summerlandornamentalgardens.org/xeriscapeXeriscape Colorado http://coloradowaterwise.orgBluestem Nursery http://www.bluestem.caWildflower Farm http://www.wildflowerfarm.comIrrigation and Water Conservation WebsitesFarmzone http://www.farmzone.comIrrigation Industry Association of BC http://www.irrigationbc.comLandscape Watering Guide, Arizona http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/region/arizona/100-ways-to-conserve/outdoor-tips/landscape-watering-guide.phpNDS Water drainage equipment and information. http://www.ndspro.comCity of Penticton Water Talk Newsletterhttp://www.penticton.ca/city/public_works/water/default.aspInvasive Plant WebsitesRegional District Okanagan-Similkameen http://www.rdos.bc.caInvasive Plant Council of BC http://www.invasiveplantcouncilbc.caXeriscape DesignersGrasslands Nursery, Toni Boot, 250-494-4617Eva Durance, 250-492-0158Waterwise Landscape Design, Lisa Masini, 250-862-1931Xeriscape and Native Plant SelectionGrasslands Nursery, 3615 Gartrell Road, Summerland, BC, 250-494-4617Sagebrush Nursery, 93rd St. #38084, Oliver, BC, 250-498-8898Xeriscape Landscape InstallersGrasslands Nursery, Steve Burritt, 250-494-4617Summerland Senior Services, Craig Whitehouse, 250-494-8333Certified Irrigation ContractorsEmerald Irrigation, Aran Boyle, 250-490-9002Grasslands Nursery, Steve Burritt, 250-494-4617Page 37

BibliographyBoot, Toni. Xeriscape Seminar Series. Grasslands Nursery, Summerland BC.C.R. Elevitch and K.M. Wilkinson. Sheet Mulching: Greater Plant and Soil Health for Less Work,Permanent Agriculture Resources.Drip Watering Made Easy. 7 th ed. Raindrip, Inc. Fresno, CA. 2007.Durance, Eva. Cultivating the Wild: Gardening with Native Plants of British Columbia’s SouthernInterior and Eastern Washington. Nature Guides BC. © 2009.Ellefson, Connie and D. Winger. Xeriscape Colorado. Westcliffe Publishers. 2004.Geoff Hall. Sheet Mulch. Sentient Landscape, Inc.Lancaster, Brad. Rainwater Harvesting For Drylands and Beyond. Rainsource Press, Tuscon, AZ© 2008.Landscape Watering Guide. Water – Use it Wisely. Arizona.http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/region/arizona/100-ways-to-conserve/outdoor-tips/landscape-watering-guide.phpPittenger, Dennis R. When and How to Amend Landscape Soils. University of CaliforniaCooperative Extension, Southern Region.Steele, Gwen and L. Masini. “Gardening with Nature”. 2009. Okanagan XeriscapeAssociation. http://okanaganxeriscape.orgWeinsten, Gayle. Xeriscape Handbook: A How-to Guide to Natural, Resource-Wise Gardening.Golden, CO. Fulcrum Pub. 1999.West Bench/Sage Mesa Area Geological Hazards Review. Klohn, Leonoff Ltd., 1992.Williams, Sara. Creating the Prairie Xeriscape: Low-Maintenance, Water-EfficientGardening. University Extension Press, University of Saskatchewan. © 1997.Page 38

INDEXAabout this publication, 2how to print, 2icons, 2amending and analyzing soil, 8Bberms and basins, 30bibliography, 38Ccompost, 8, 25Eerosion, 2, 4amending soil to reduce, 8and irrigation, 17hazards 2, 4, 17maintenance to monitor, 27mulching to reduce, 25plant selection, 15, 31-35FFrench drain, 30Hherbicides, 14hydroseeding, 10Iicons, 2inorganic mulch, 25-26introduction, 4invasive plants, 16, 35irrigationautomatic timers, 24design, 17lawn, 23micro/drip, 19schedules, 17, 22-24system maintenance, 24, 27using rainwater runoff, 30zones, 17irrigation schedulefor micro/drip irrigation, 20for hand or sprinkler 23for West Bench lawns, 24KKentucky Blue Grassalternatives, 10reduction, 10Llacustrine silts or soils, 4, 8, 25map, 9lasagna gardening, 12-13lawnsconserving resources, 10Mmaintenance of xeriscape, 27fertilizing, 27irrigation, 27lawn care, 27mulching, 27pruning, 27weeding, 27micro irrigation, 19mulch, 25cost estimates, 26organic vs. inorganic, 25Oorganic mulch, 25Pplanning xeriscapes, 6base plan, 6design considerations, 7low maintenance tips, 7resources, 7what to plant first, 6planting, 15grouping, 15,17zonal planting, 15plantsbuying, 17invasive, 16, 35planting strategies, 15selection, xeriscape, 15–16for West Bench, 31-35Rrainwater runoff, 29, 31–32Real Estate Foundation of BC, 40resource list, 36-37rototilling for turf removal, 14Sseptic drainage fields, 14sheet mulching, 12-13sod cutters, 11soilsamendment and sources, 8analysis, 8of the West Bench, 8variability, 8spillways, 30Tterraces, 30turfbenefits vs. drawbacks, 10eliminating, 10, 11-14irrigation costs, minimizing, 10overseeding, 10practical turf areas, 9removing, 11turf removal methodsherbicidal spraying, 14rototilling, 14sheet mulching, 12-13sod cutting, 11soil solarization, 13Wwater audits, 24, 27wateringby hand, 22depth, 18frequency, 18irrigation systems, 19-24zones, 17weedsbarrier, 13growth control, 25invasive, 16, 35West Bench Irrigation District,2, 5, 40Xxeriscapeon the West Bench, 5xeriscape principles, 5efficient irrigation, 17maintenance, 27mulch, 25planning and design, 6plant selection, 15practical turf areas, 10soil analysis and amendment, 8Page 39

The Large Lot Xeriscape Design Project is jointly funded by the West Bench IrrigationDistrict and the Real Estate Foundation of British Columbia, a non-profit corporation thatprovides funding to support sustainable real estate and land use practices for the benefit ofBritish Columbians. Written by Toni Boot and Janelle Parchomchuk, this manual, XeriscapeDesign Projects for Large Lots: Solutions to the Challenges of Landscaping on the West Bench, is theculmination of the Large Lot Xeriscape Design Project.