Life under the Midnight Sun - North Iceland's ... - Land og saga

North IcelandLife under the Midnight Sun - North Iceland’s diversity makes it an exciting placeLake Mývatn areaMap © Ólafur ValssonSummer in the North is characterised by the midnightsun. You can play golf, go seal and whale watching,horse riding, hiking, swimming, fishing, river rafting,bird-watching, camping or simply enjoy the disparateforms of nature. The region wears a different coat inwinter, when you can ride horses on the frozen lakes inMývatn under the Northern Lights or ski the slopes justminutes from Akureyri town centre. The town is knownas the winter sports capital of Iceland.Northern Iceland is probably Iceland’s most diverseregion—in every sphere. Nature varies from the mysticalarea around Mývatn Lake, a birdwatching paradise, to theawesome horse-shoe canyon of Ásbyrgi, the thunderouswaterfalls at Goðafoss and Dettifoss, Askja’s calderasand volcanos, or islands like Drangey, to name a few.Tours to the Highlands in the summer, to Askja forexample, are unforgettable. The region is bursting withvibrant history, just waiting to be enjoyed. Museums arefound in almost every town, with fascinating insights intofields such as the seals at Selasetur in Hvammstangi or theWhale Museum in Húsavík to the turf house of Glaumbærfarm in Skagafjörður. Then Skagaströnd, home to theMuseum of Prophecies is known as the country musiccapital of Iceland. In Hjaltadal valley in Skagafjörður isHólar, formerly the episcopal see and site of the firstprinting press. Siglufjörður hosts the Folk Music andHerring museums. Blönduós has several museums, asdoes Akureyri, the largest town of the north, along withits art galleries and rich culture.Photos; courtesy of the North Iceland Marketing Office.Grjótagjá, a popular bathing place194 195

Enjoying summer in AkureyriA sheep round-up—the ‘Réttir’An old farm, GlaumbærThe swimmingpool in AkureyriThe town of DalvíkRiver rafting in Skagafjörður

Skiing down TröllaskagiAkureyriThe strange island of HvítserkurPlaying golf in the midnight sunGoðafoss waterfall

BlönduósHvammstangiWWho’s Watching Whom?Seal watching from the seaAtreat for children and adults alike, thissummer it will be possible to take anunforgettable seal watching tour with SealWatching ehf. From the decks of their mostrecent acquisition, the Brimill, you will get achance to observe seals at one of the very bestseal watching locations in Iceland, Miðfjörðurfjord, along the Vatnsnes Peninsula.Seals are one of the star attractions ofaqua-parks and zoos around the world withtheir graceful swimming and cute antics.It’s one thing, however, to see them incaptivity and quite another to see them intheir natural habitat. Playful and curious bynature, the seals often swim quite close tothe boat for a better look at you! Then it is aquestion of who is watching whom?Seal watching tours are offered twice-dailyfrom June through August at 10:00 and 13:00.Sightings ranging anywhere from 12 to 95seals are possible and, as the boat approaches,the captain will turn off the engines, gettingyou within about 45 metres of the seals, muchcloser than is possible on land. Puffins, as wellas other migratory birds, inhabit the area everysummer and are also great to watch. Othertours on offer are a 3 hour sea angling tourand a 2 hour ‘midnight cruise’ which starts at23:00. (from 10th June to 20th July only)A few surprising facts...With puffins and whales grabbing manyheadlines in recent years, it may come asrather a surprise to fi nd that Icelandic coastsare home to about 12,000 Common sealsand 4,000 Grey seals—the two native sealspecies that are thought to rarely leave theIcelandic shelf. The Common seal, being themore outgoing and curious of the two species,congregates in small groups on skerries androcky beaches and is more easily spotted thanthe shyer Grey seal. Solitary vagrants such asHarp seals, Ringed seals and Hooded sealsare sometimes seen during the winter, whileBearded seals and Walruses are very rare.(Information courtesy of the Icelandic Ministry ofFisheries and Agriculture)Sealwatching ehf is located in thesmall village of Hvammastangi, onMiðfjörðurfjord, on the west side of VatnsnesPeninsula. The village is easily accessible, just7 km off the main ring road, about half waybetween Reykjavik and Akureyri.Selasigling–EMVHöfðabraut 13 • 530 Hvammstangi+354 897 9900selasigling@simnet.iswww.sealwatching.is201

North IcelandThe Life of SalmonAnglers pay fortunes for the privilege to catch this fi shThe Icelandic Salmon Centre is aninteresting and informative destinationwhen travelling the northern part of Iceland.It is located in Blönduós in Húnavatnssýslawhere most of the great salmon-fishing riversin Iceland are found. Indeed, one of them,Blanda, runs right through the town.An Exhibition for Old and YoungThe exhibition is divided into three parts:Biology, History and Salmon fishing. Atthe centre, is an exhibition sporting the livesalmon, its habitat, feeding grounds andmating habits. It is the only salmon centre inIceland, connected to Hólar University andthe Institute of Freshwater Fisheries of Iceland.Since it’s opening in 2012, it has becomeincreasingly popular with, not just salmonfishers, but all those interested in nature and itsendless resources – not least children of all ages.The exhibition explains the differentsalmon species, where they come from andwhy. It answers questions on why some riversare more popular amongst the salmon thanothers, which conditions are ideal and whythis fi sh is so fascinating that hundreds ofmen and women from all over the world payfortunes to be allowed to catch it—and inmost instances, just release it again.Laxasetur Íslands–SSEfstabraut 1 • 540 Blönduós+354 452 2900laxasetur@laxasetur.iswww.laxasetur.isGateway to the Vatnsnes PeninsulaThe Icelandic Seal Centre at HvammstangiThe Icelandic Seal Centre of Hvammstangi,the gateway to the picturesque VatnsnesPeninsula, provides the perfect starting pointfor the exploration of this outstandinglybeautiful but little-visited corner of NorthWest Iceland. Heralded as the ultimate sealviewingdestination in Iceland, the VatnsnesPeninsula offers visitors a unique opportunityto observe both harbour seals and grey sealsin their natural habitats. And what betterway to learn about these gentle creaturesthan a stop at the Icelandic Seal Centre inHvammstangi? Now operating in its new 280square metre premises, the centre multitasksas a museum, research centre and touristinformation desk, all under one roof.Through its varied educational exhibitsand cultural displays that include sealfolklore, the centre offers a comprehensiveview of seals in Iceland, their role andimportance in Icelandic history and presentday sustainability issues surrounding thissometimes controversial marine mammal.At the tourist information desk, visitors canbook seal watching tours, either on land orby sea, as well as accommodation in the area.Established in 2005, the centre is dedicatedto ongoing seal research, educational outreachand the promotion of sustainable tourism,particularly as it pertains to seal populationsin and around the Vatnsnes Peninsula.Selasetur Íslands–EMVStrandgötu 1 • 530 Hvammstanga+354 451 2345info@selasetur.iswww.selasetur.isFamily leisure, comfort and beautyA warm welcome at HvammstangiThough the most densely populatedarea in the beautiful west HúnaþingCounty, Hvammstangi has a population of amere 580 and welcomes visitors with all thewarmth and hospitality of a small village.Being in close vicinity to Vatnsnes, with itsgorgeous scenery and historical sites, andwith a seal habitat within walking distance,it’s an interesting and highly memorableplace to visit. The town has a greatswimming pool with a water slide and wellreviewedguesthouses, not to mention oneof the most wonderful camping grounds inthe country. Situated in a peaceful dale andsheltered by the surrounding mountains, it’sa paradise for families: secluded but yet withall services to hand, including sanitary andleisure facilities and stores.The town’s general store, as indicated bythe name, sells practically everything youmight need: groceries, hardware and farmproduce, while also housing the local liquorstore. First founded in 1909, it’s a jointownership of the farmers and the peopleof Hvammstangi and as such, sticks to oldvalues and trade practices. In many ways it’sthe heart of the community and sums up thespirit of the village.Summertime opening hoursMonday - Thursday 9 - 18Friday 9 - 19Saturday 11 - 16Kaupfélag Vestur-Húnvetninga–HÞStrandgata 1 • 530 Hvammstangi+354 455 2300kvh@kvh.iswww.kvh.isThe Wool Factory Shop enables youto buy directly from the people whomake traditional natural Icelandicwool products and ornaments inoriginal colours.Höfðabraut 34 • 530 Hvammstangi +354 451 0060 kidka@simnet.is www.kidka.comHoliday cottagesRestaurant for60 peopleDouble & familyrooms with or withoutprivate facilitiesCamp site with afully-equippedservice houseDæli Holiday FarmAccomodation, Camping, Restaurant & BarDæli • 531 Hvammstangi +354 451 2566 daeli@daeli.is www.daeli.isKIDKAThe Wool Factory ShopFishingpermits can bearrangedMini-golf • Hot Pot • Sauna194 km fromReykjavik onRoad No. 1Gauksmýri LodgeHoliday services emphasisingnature and horsemanship. Withaccommodation, refreshments,horse-rental, horse shows andbird watching.Gauksmýri • 531 Hvammstanga +354 451 2927gauksmyri@gauksmyri.is www.gauksmyri.is202 203

North IcelandA Guesthouse with HistoryGuesthouse Blönduós Offers Comfort Amidst Stunning ViewsVisiting Blönduós, guests are able tofeel the special atmosphere of the oldtown centre where the charming BlönduósGuesthouse stands. Originally built as apostoffi ce, this magnifi cent building hasa history to it.Renovated in 2000, it is a two-storey,nine-bedroom guesthouse housing about20 visitors. The rooms have beautifulviews of either Skagafjöll mountainsor River Blanda. Bathrooms, toilets,showers and kitchen facilities are availableon both floors. Regular meals are servedin the restaurant at the adjacent HótelBlönduós, where breakfast and lunchpacks are also available.Blönduós has numerous activities toenjoy. Sports enthusiasts can take a swingat the 9-hole golf course just outside town,visit the sports centre or swimming pool.Those with affi nity for fi shing are sure toget a good catch nearby.Blönduós also offers the only HandcraftMuseum in Iceland, a Sea Ice ExhibitionCentre in the old part of town and TheIcelandic Textile Centre.A First StopWhether driving from Mývatn, Kefla vík oreven from the Norræna passenger ship atSeyðis fjörður, Blöndu ós Guest house is a perfectplace to stop for 2-3 nights, enjoying whatIceland has to offer—at an affordable price.Enjoy the beauty of the Icelandiccountryside, participate in your favouriteactivity, or just relax in one of BlönduósGuesthouse’ scenic rooms.–SPGamla PósthúsiðGrundargötu 50 • 350 Grundarfjörður+354 430 8043gisting@tsc.iswww.gamlaposthusid.isCosy NostalgiaHótel Blönduós brings a romantic ambience to its roomsFor those looking for excitement,Blönduós may not look like much tothe casual observer. In fact, from your carwindow you will only see petrol stations,a church, a river and a camping site. Butall is not what it seems: the river Blanda,which courses through the town, is one ofthe best salmon fishing rivers in Icelandand the town is the starting point fornumerous hiking trails into the highlandsand along the shoreline. It is a paradise forbirdwatchers and, during the winter, offersa variety of winter-sports. Blönduós also hasan great variety of interesting museums.By the Blanda estuary is Hótel Blönduós,a delightful little country hotel with a fullylicensed bar and a restaurant specialising intraditional Icelandic cuisine, what Icelandersrefer nostalgically to as ‘grandmother’scooking’. From the cosy lounge one canobserve the beautiful sunset, the calm orraging sea and depending on the weather andthe season, the dance of the northern lights.The rooms and suites are beautiful, eachwith its own style, colour range and privatebath. The suites are especially romantic withsloping ceilings, soft lighting and lovelylinen. It is quite a treat to spend a few daysat this lovely hotel in charming Blönduós.Hótel Blönduós–SSAðalgata 6 • 540 Blönduós+354 452 4205hotelblonduos@simnet.iswww.hotelblonduos.isLet the River Sing You to SleepGlaðheimar Cottages and Campsite are right by the river in BlönduósIncreasingly, tourists are recognising thatIceland is a destination of choice whateverthe time of year. Venturing beyond theReykjavik area opens up a totally differentworld of fascinating sights and experiences.As you drive north on the Ring Road, youcome to the town of Blönduós in the Northof Iceland. In recent years, a lot has beenhappening there that makes it a place worth, notjust stopping in, but staying in for awhile, too.Glaðheimar cottages and campsite areon the northern shores of the River Blanda.This moderately priced accommodation,set quite close to Route No.1, is a veryconvenient place to stay for those travellingaround Iceland, as well as those who mightwish to spend time fi shing in the area.“We’re open all year round,” says Lárus B.Jónsson, who is responsible for the site. “Wehave 20 fully-equipped cottages suitable for3–8 persons each. Hot tubs come standardwith most of the cottages, and four cottageshave a sauna in addition. We also run acampsite and a caravan park.”Blönduós has only 900 inhabitants.However, it is blessed with a wide range ofservices and leisure opportunities. There’s aswimming pool, a 9-hole golf course, cafésand restaurants and a grocery store.Museums include the Atlantic SalmonMuseum, Sea Ice Exhibition Centre and theIcelandic Textile Centre and Textile Museum.They have exhibits that you won’t find elsewhere,so they are worth taking the time to see. TheRomanesque church is also worth visiting.That river doesn’t just contain water. Someof the best salmon rivers in Iceland are in thisarea, so the fishing is really good, with theaverage salmon weighing 4 kg. The countrysideis really beautiful, especially around theserivers, so horse riding, hiking, kayaking andcanoeing are also popular activities.Glaðheimar is an ideal place from whichto base while you explore all the area has tooffer. “Blönduós has enough things to dofor visitors for a day. For those who chooseto stay with us for a few days, there are atleast four distinctive day drives,” says Lárus.Just ask him or one of his staff when you’rethere. After a day’s activities in the area, thosecottages with their hot pots and saunas soundvery attractive—whatever the weather.Glaðheimar–ASFMelabraut 21 • 540 Blönduós+354 820 1300gladheimar@simnet.iswww.gladheimar.is204 205

North IcelandRefreshments on the RoadPotturinn’s the Perfect Stopping Place in the NorthWill you be travelling with a biggroup who all have their ownspecial needs concerning food and drink?Or perhaps with children, who need to beable to run around when they get out ofthe car? Then Potturinn in Blönduós is theperfect stop for you. It is a classic shop onRoute One, or the ring road as it is usuallycalled in Icelandic, but has more choices tooffer then the usual burger shop by the road.Live Like an OutlawEyvindarstofa shows what an Outlaw’s Life was like in IcelandThe same building which housesPotturinn offers an interesting surprise:Eyvindarstofa, a themed restaurant basedon the life of Iceland’s most famous outlaw,Fjalla-Eyvindur (Mountain-Eyvindur).This king of mountaineering survivedforty years on the run in the wildernesswith his wife, Halla, enduring harshconditions unimaginable to modern people.He was renowned for his resourcefulness,navigational and survival skills; the onlyA spacious restaurant, one can find a widevariety of courses in order to tank up forfurther travelling or for a relaxing eveningreasons he managed to exist in the viciousweather conditions of the Icelandicwilderness.Eyvindarstofa can host up to seventy people,making it a fascinating option for big groups.A special menu has been put together using thecream of Iceland’s crop, such as fresh salmon,slowly cooked lamb on the bone and a divineblend of rye-bread and rhubarb.The uniqueness of Eyvindarstofa is createdby the carefully decorated interior, designedin the spirit of the outlaw life. Fjalla-Eyvindur was known for his craftsmanshipand the crockery at Eyvindarstofa isdesigned in the manner of his handiwork.The feel of his stay in the wilderness alsocomes across in the beautiful interiors thatsimulate the wild nature.Just entering Eyvindarstofa is like enteringanother world, walking its narrow stonecorridors, not really knowing where you aregoing. It certainly enhances the mystery ofthe whole adventure. Children simply love it!One can enjoy this special outlawexperience with or without dining, butby the beautiful mouth of the river Blanda.It is a family-friendly restaurant, with itsown children’s corner and enough spacefor everybody to stretch their legs. If youare around Blönduós at noon it is a goodtime to check out Potturinn’s lunch offerfor great and hearty food.Potturinn–NNANorðurlandsvegi 4 • 540 Blönduósi+354 453 5060pot@pot.iswww.pot.isEyvindarstofa offers both a special lunchmenu as well as a three course dinner menu.One can also dine at Potturinn and thenvisit the exhibition honouring the life andstruggles of Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla.Eyvindarstofa–NNANorðurlandsvegi 4 • 540 Blönduósi+354 453 5060pot@pot.iswww.eyvindarstofa.isUnrequited LoveHunavellir Hotel is Surrounded by Sagas of StruggleDo you want to discover the beautiful,captivating, yet tragic love stories hiddenamongst the green fields and serene landscapeof Hunathing? Stories mixed with salty tearsof lovers, who weren’t meant for each other;stories that even led to spilled blood?Hunathing is the setting of some thebest known stories of Icelandic history:the struggle of the outlaw Fjalla-Eyvindurand his wife Halla; the love story of thepoet Vatnsenda Rósa; and one of the mostremarkable Icelandic sagas, Vatnsdæla.If you want to explore the surroundingsof Blönduós, Hotel Hunavellir is the placeto start your exploration—especially if youwant a little comfort with your exploration.Located just by the town of Blönduós, thehotel itself has a wide variety of facilities,including a swimming pool, hot tubs, sportfacilities and a great outdoor area.Coffee with the SchoolmasterVið Árbakkann is a Café with a Style all its OwnHotel Hunavellir is a cosy hotelwith twenty-eight rooms, sleeping bagaccommodation and a camping ground.There is travel service, which can show youall the possibilities the area has to offer,making touring with groups in this part ofthe country both attractive and accessible.Hotel Hunavellir–NNAHúnavallaskóli • 541 Blönduósi+354 453 5600info@hotelhunavellir.iswww.hotelhunavellir.isWhether you are staying in Blönduósor travelling through, make sureyou stop at the lovely Við Árbakkann café,especially if you are in the mood for goodcup of coffee in especially nice surroundings.Located in the old school principal’s home,a beautiful old-style house, it is a cosy caféwith a charming environment. It is the perfectplace to take your morning coffee or to havea light meal in the afternoon. On a fi ne day,it is quite lovely to enjoy your snack or drinkoutside on the patio by the house. A strollby the river Blanda or through the town isrecommended to get the most from your visit.Við Árbakkann offers a wide variety oflight courses, such as their renowned fi nefish soup, refreshing salads, sandwichesand bagels. If you are a sweet tooth, makesure you taste the waffles or cakes. For a fullmeal, there are meat and fish dinner specialsand the café does its best to serve only thefreshest food from the region.Við Árbakkann–NNAHúnabraut 2 • 540 Blönduósi+354 452 4678info@vidarbakkann.iswww.vidarbakkann.is206 207

fi ne day, it’s lovely to strollalong the harbour and take in the smell ofthe sea before going for some refreshments atthe beautiful Café Bjarmanes which standson the cliffs overlooking the harbour and theopen sea. Close to Café Bjarmanes you’ll findÁrnes museum, a tiny and utterly charminghouse, originally built in 1899 and thereforethe oldest house in Skagaströnd. The housewas renovated a few years ago by the townand now serves as a window into the past forthose who visit it. All interiors are from thebeginning of the 20 th century and give a goodpicture of fairly well-to-do Icelandic homesfrom this period.SkagaströndCapital of CountryThe north’s most musical townAsk Icelanders what first comes tomind when the name Skagaströndis mentioned and chances are they’ll say,‘country music’. Strange? Perhaps, sincea small fishing village in the northwestof Iceland isn’t exactly what you wouldtypically associate with cowboys and linedancing. Nonetheless, that’s the case here.KántrýbærVeteran musician Hallbjörn Hjartarson, anative of Skagaströnd, has promoted countrymusic for years and is a household name inIceland. He runs the famous Kántrýbær(Country Town) restaurant, a must stopfor anyone visiting Skagaströnd, as wellas a country and western radio station.Hallbjörn is often referred to as the ‘Cowboyof the North’ and he is the originator of thetown’s annual Country festival which isheld in mid August each year. Recently aCountry museum was opened at Skagastöndin honour of Hallbjörn and his work.Th e v i l l a g eApart from its close ties to music, Skagaströndis primarily a fishing village. In the summer,the small port is a lively whirlpool of boatsand people, ever coming and going. On aThe Museum of Prophecies and CapeSpákonufellshöfðiThe first inhabitant in Skagaströnd is believedto have been Þórdís the Soothsayer, a widelyknown woman of the 10 th century whose nameis mentioned in many of the Icelandic sagas.Þórdís was famous for her ability to see intothe future and at the Museum of Prophecies,her story is told on a painted tapestry. Theexhibition provides information aboutprophecies and visitors can have their fortunestold and palms read. Þórdís lived by thefoothills of Mountain Spákonufell and storiestell of her daily walks up the mountain whereshe’d comb her hair with a special gold comb.Cape Spákonufellshöfði is a protectedarea and a popular hiking route. A telescopeand information signs have been put up togive insight into the cape’s rich history.The town’s camp ground is nicely situatedin a quiet sheltered area and has goodfacilities, a playground for kids and a servicehouse with a dining area and a washingmachine. Skagaströnd also has a niceswimming pool and a 9-hole golf course.–HÞSveitarfélagið SkagaströndTúnbraut 1-3 • 545 Skagaströnd+354 455 2700skagastrond@skagastrond.iswww.skagastrond.is209

North IcelandHorses, Historyand NatureSkagafjörður – Diverse Nature, Great Adventures and Historical ExperiencesWhen the Icelandic traveller thinksof Skagafj örður, what undoubtedlycomes to mind is the steep, picturesque cliffof Drangey, which towers majestically in themidst of the big fjord from which the districtderives its name. Resulting from countlessreferences to Drangey both in history andculture, this small island is firmly embeddedin the Icelandic psyche.Secondly, what comes to mind isthe Icelandic horse. Skagafjörður isan important breeding place for thisbeautiful, humble servant that enabledpeople to survive throughout the centuriesin harsh conditions. These two distinctivefeatures frame the different possibilitiesSkagafjörður has to offer; an area of naturalwonders and an abundance of cultural andrecreational activities.An important historical areaSkagafjörður is a municipality in the Northof Iceland which covers the area frommost of the peninsulas creating the fjorditself to the broad valley that bears thename of the fjord and goes all the way tothe highlands. Thus, it is an area of greatnatural variety with steep mountains, fertileinlands and a varied coastal environment.The biggest town the area of Skagafjörður isSauðakrókur after which come the village ofHofsós and other smaller villages.Skagafjörður could also be said to bethe centre of a historic circle rangingfrom Blönduós, west of Skagafjörður toSiglufj örður in the north and Akureyri inthe east. Hólar í Hjaltadal, the old bishopricof the North, in fact used to be the mostimportant in the North. Many who servedas bishops of the North are arguably some ofIceland’s most important figures.Sites of InterestThe battle of Örlygsstaðir, the biggest battlein the history of Iceland, also took place inSkagafjörður, when the great families in theage of Sturlungs fought. Historic facts such asthese can be learned in Skagafjörður throughvarious museums and places of historicimportance. For example, the turf farmhouseat Glaumbær shows clearly how life used tobe in rural Iceland; the Minjahúsið museumin Sauðarkrókur is unique for showinghow artisans’ workshops used to be andthe Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofsósfocuses on the mass emigration from Icelandto North-America in the 19th century.The Bad need Somewhere to BeThis cliff in Skagafjörður certainly has amystic character to it. According to oldfolktales, the cliff itself is an old femaletroll who turned to stone at daybreak whiletraversing the fjord, as trolls can’t handlesunlight. Grettir, in the famous Icelandicsaga bearing his name, was an extremelystrong but ill-tempered man, who ended hisdays in Drangey as an outlaw.One of the historic bishops at Hólar,Guðmundur the Good decided he was goingto bless all of Iceland by ridding the land ofvile beings. But once, as he hung from thecliffs of Drangey, to expedite this work, thestory says that a big hand came out of thecliff and grabbed him. He heard a voice say,“the bad ones need somewhere to be.” Thebishop decided not to bless Drangey.This story does not frighten the locals,who go every Spring to collect eggs andbirds on the cliffs of Drangey.An inspiring way to enjoy waterBy Hofsós, you can fi nd a great way to enjoythe view of Drangey. The new swimmingpool is a masterpiece of design. Once you arein the pool you get the impression that you areswimming to the sea and to Drangey whileswimming in the warm water of the pool.Skagafj örður has, in total, seven poolsacross the area as well as various hot springsto bathe in, the most famous one beingGrettislaug at Reykir.Being in Nature among Horses and BirdsSkagafjörður is a fitting place to enjoy horses.Not only do the various horse-riding companiesin the area provide a variety of trips but youcan also visit a breeding farm, see horse showsand even experience a horse corral if you are inSkagafjörður at the right time of year!Skagafj örður is a nice area to explore onhorseback. There are many uninhabitedplaces not too far from town providingyou with the tranquility to enjoy nature.Whether you like a short trip, or a multidayexcursion to the highlands, you will beable to experience it here.There are various other ways to enjoy thenature of Skagafjörður; watching and listeningto the rich birdlife, pumping some adrenalinein your body by river rafting in the glacialrivers, hike the various trails in the area or sailon a boat to Drangey and Málmey.At the end of a day, you can visit one ofthe many restaurants in the area servinghigh-quality food made under the FoodChest concept, which encourages theeating of local produce.Whether you are travelling with thewhole family, by yourself or with yourpartner or friends, Skagafjörður hassomething for everybody!Skagafjörður–NHHSkagfirðingabraut 21 • 550 Saupakrókur+354 455 6000skagafjordur@skagafjordur.iswww.skagafjordur.is210211

North IcelandSkagafjörður’sTreasure TroveThe rich heritage of the past is preserved to be enjoyedSkagafjörður Heritage Museum hasexhibitions in four places: The old turfbuilding at Glaumbær, Heritage House inSauðárkrókur, Emigration Centre at Hofsósand The Icelandic Horse History Centre.Glaumbær turf farmhouse, with itsmany rooms, pieces of furniture andutensils is perhaps the most interestingexhibition for foreign visitors. “It is myfavourite because visitors can walk intothe building and explore each one of therooms and its contents,” says SigríðurSigurðardóttir, the chief curator ofSkagafj örður Heritage Museum.The Curator’s FavouritesThe Glaumbær turf farmhouse represents thefi nal stage in the evolution of the Icelandicturf farmhouse, an evolution that is uniqueto Iceland. “The evolution of the Icelandicfarmhouse was influenced by the local lackof timber and its use to heat houses, the lackof locally available building material, andshortage of capital to spend on importedmaterials. Iceland is the only country in theworld where you’ll fi nd a passage turf andstone house with A-framed wooden gableswith glass windows,” says Sigríður.The Sum is Greater than the PartsResearch plays an important role at theSkagafjörður Heritage Museum. “Wehave a wide range of expertise in differentfi elds. There’s a special department whichis dedicated specifically to preservation,restoration and research. Our research isprimarily archaeological and historicalin nature, which reflects the interestand education of the different specialistsworking here. The current staff includes twoarchaeologists, a geographer, and a historianwith further specialisations in humanosteology, philosophy and ethnography.Skagafjörður is a treasure trove when itcomes to heritage studies and we strive tomake our research available to laymen andspecialists alike. We’ve looked at diversetopics such as the health and diet of ancientpopulations, settlement development, thehistory and craft of turf building and thehistory and development of horse-gear toname but a few things,” says Sigríður.Four generations of watchmakersThe Heritage House in Sauðárkrókuris another one of Sigríður’s favouriteexhibitions within the museum. “Themuseum pays homage to blacksmiths,carpenters, saddle makers and watchmakers.Yes, you read correctly—watchmakers.The Danish king visited Iceland in 1907.Young J. Frank Michelsen was in the king’sentourage. He returned Sauðárkrókur in1909 where he set up a shop selling jewellery,clocks and watches. Today, the fourthgeneration of Michelsen watchmakers have ashop in Reykjavik where they sell their ownquality brand-name watches.Look at the Polar BearA stuffed 2 metre tall polar bear in a glasscage greets visitors at the Heritage Housein Sauðárkrókur. “Visitors love looking atit, especially the children,” says Sigríður.The 20 year-old male polar bear on displayswam to Iceland from Greenland in June2008. Sadly, it had to be put down afterit made a gesture to attack photographersand the general public who out of curiosityventured too close. “The interest in theanimal was quite understandable becausepolar bears are a rare sight in Iceland.”OPENING HOURSThe Heritage HouseOpen 13-19, 10 th June-26 th AugustGlaumbær FarmOpen 9-18, 1 st June-10 th SeptemberGlaumbær–SHVGlaumbær • 551 Sauðárkrókur+354 453 6173bsk@skagafjordur.iswww.skagafjordur.is212213

North IcelandLight in the NorthHólar Keeps History AliveHólar’s small population belies itsimportance in Icelandic history. Withnine centuries of history, it would need daysto delve into its past and its achievements.Christianity’s early efforts at instilling astrong educational spirit began with a Latinschool a Cathedral school, continuing in itssmall university of about 250 students today.Iceland’s fi rst printing press was brought toHólar to print Bibles and books for the nation.Until the unification of the bishoprics in1798, Hólar was the bishop’s seat for NorthIceland. Its church has featured prominentlyin its history and is traced to 1106. Thecurrent church, built in 1763, houses relicsfrom its famous past.A Haven of History, Beauty and CultureSet deep in a remote and beautiful historic valley,surrounded by forested hills, lives a communityof 200 people along with students and staff ofthe college. It is a popular stop for travellingIcelanders, whether for accommodation, theswimming pool, the church, the IcelandicHorse History Centre or the restaurant.Small, fully equipped cottages and rooms areavailable to rent year round and can house 100people in the summer. A campsite is serenadedby a chorus of birdsong whilst sheltered by treesprotecting guests from the wind.Combine Exercise and RelaxationExploring the various hiking routes aroundHólar is especially popular. Hiking toursare organised from Hólar that includeaccommodation, food, driving, access toswimming pool and guiding.For example, a one day tour consistsof walking an old route over the heath ofHeljardalur. This route used to be the maincross-over from Eyjafjörður and Akureyri tothe bishop’s seat and school at Hólar.A longer tour consists of three day tripsfrom Hólar, one slightly lighter one whilethe other two are invigorating walks tothe neighbouring Grasárdalshnjúkur andHólabyrða mountains.After the walks, hikers get the chanceto relax stiff muscles in the geothermallyheated swimming pool and enjoy the fi newining and dining at Hólar.The Restaurant Under the MountainUndir Byrdunni, a restaurant meaning ‘Underthe Mountain’, provides a summer buffet andlocal specialities like Hólableikja, made fromlocally-caught arctic char. Coffee is servedthroughout the day and the lunch, dinner andgrill menus attract visitors from a wide radius,as it is a popular restaurant all year round.–ASFHólarHólar • 551 Sauðárkrókur+354 455 6333hildur@holar.iswww.holar.is214 215

North IcelandMake Friends in HistoryIceland’s Oldest Hotel Takes You to a Bygone EraMarlene Dietrich and Iceland’scurrent president have somethingin common. Both have stayed at HotelTindastóll, Iceland’s oldest hotel. Builtin 1884 and restored in 2000, HotelTindastóll has the look and feel of its pastwith much of the original wood still intactand the decor made to match.Sleep in an Icelander’s RoomTen rooms named after prominentIcelanders have double beds, wardrobes,Tudor furniture, and a private bathroom.Deluxe rooms feature added comfortssuch as a DVD player and small sittingarea. Two separate summer homes areavailable for families or friends to rent.Meet in a Relaxing AtmosphereOn Hotel Tindastóll’s ground floor is an oldfashioned tavern with ample room for gueststo relax with a drink. A hot tub, made withstones found on the shores of Skagafj örðurwith water set at 39°C, can be accessed fromeither the tavern or dining room.Hotel Tindastóll serves a buffet breakfasteach day at a long dining room table,encouraging a friendly atmosphere whereguests can get to know their host as wellas their fellow guests.–KBHótel TindastóllLindargata 3 • 550 Sauðárkrókur+354 453 5002sml@simnet.iswww.hoteltindastoll.comA Dream Come TrueHótel Varmahlíð - from Dream to RealityOnce there was a little girl who livednext to a big, beautiful hotel. Shewatched the people come and go from HótelVarmahlíð in awe. One day, she sneakedover to the post office with some friendsand pretended to mail a letter so that shecould get a closer look. Peering throughthe window, she saw a huge dining roomand people happily eating their meals andcelebrating a special occasion. “Someday,” shepromised herself, “this place will be mine.”Owning the DreamThe girl, Svanhildur Pálsdóttir, has nowgrown into the woman who owns andmanages the hotel. “I always saw thepotential for transformation,” Svanhildurrecalls, smiling at her good fortune.“I grew up just across the street anddreamt of making this hotel my own.”Svanhildur has worked hard to transformHotel Varmahlíð into her own, down tothe minute details such as which colour offl ower to place on the table.Filled from the Food ChestThe dining room that Svanhildur oncepeered into as a girl now serves dishesusing game or livestock brought in by herhusband and brother-in-law. Smoked goosecarpaccio, wrapped around small scoops ofdate chutney arranged on a bed of lettucegrown at a nearby greenhouse, piques saltyand sweet taste buds. Warm rhubarb cakewith vanilla ice cream and mango rhubarbinclude a breakfast buffet.Hótel Varmahlíð is ideal for conferencesand special occasions with the restaurantcatering to the unique needs of eachgroup and the hotel comfortably sleepingalmost forty people.ÍSLANDBakkaflöt-Bátafjörchutney ends the meal with a meldingof local and exotic. The menu belongs toSkagafjörður’s food chest, an effort byrestaurants to use food that is around themrather than looking far from home. Summerdishes will focus on shrimp, cod, localcheese and/or lamb.Three-Star ComfortEach of the nineteen rooms at HótelVarmahlíð has an en suite bathroom,television, alarm clock, and hair dryer.Its three-star rating ensures that nothingwill be lacking and all overnight staysAn Enchanting Vision for AllSvanhildur’s enthusiasm and knowledgeof the area aids guests in discoveringhiking paths that lie just up the slopinghills surrounding Hótel Varmahlíð.Tree-covered paths provide pleasanthiking on windy days, while short, yetrewarding walks are said to reveal ninechurches standing tall on Skagafjörður’shorizon on a clear day and will enchantvisitors to Hótel Varmahlíð, just as itenchanted its owner years ago.–KBHótel Varmahlíð560 Varmahlíð+354 453 8170info@hotelvarmahlid.iswww. hotelvarmahlid.is216 www.bakkaflot.com - Phone: 354 453 8245 / 354 453 8099217

North IcelandA Boutique Lifestyle in the NorthA Tranquil Setting for a Beautiful Break at LónkotThe northern region of Skagafjörður isfamous for a number of things. The FoodChest concept, created at Lónkot and used allover the area, encourages sustainability andthe use of locally grown vegetables and locallysourced foods, such as game, ptarmigan, duck,geese and fish like arctic trout.At the cosy boutique hotel at Lónkot,they have taken the concept a step further.Using the slow cooking method, the bucolicrestaurant has earned a name for deliciousmeals with the addition of flowers and herbs.The hotel itself has six rooms for between17—20 guests. This makes it a perfectlocation for incentive groups wantingan unusual get-away together, thoughindividual travellers have found it just asinspiring. It is intentionally kept smalland personal and has just reopened after acomplete renovation.Dine in the Danish EraDelicious Food, Delightful Views at Sólvík in HofsósNext door to the Icelandic EmigrationCentre in Hofsós, in a beautifullyrestored 19 th century wooden building, isthe Sólvík restaurant and café.Renovated HistoryHofsós is one of the oldest trading centresin Iceland. Recently, many of the housessurrounding the harbour have beenrenovated, giving the village back thespirit of the trading centre of bygone days.Sólvík was the home of the agent for theDanish monopoly and previously stood inGrafarós, which was a trading centre from1835-1915. It was moved to Hofsós anderected in its current location in 1920.Fresh Food at its BestIts terrace, overlooking the charmingharbour of Hofsós, is a lovely place tosit and enjoy the wonderful cuisine ofDagmar Ásdís Þorvaldsdóttir: freshlycaught cod and trout, mountain lambfrom Skagafjörður, chicken fillet,hamburger, lobster, soup and bread ora coffee and cake.Dagmar has been running Sólvík forabout 10 years. She says the courses she hason the menu are her clients’ most popularchoices over past years. The restaurant isIn winter, groups have the addedadvantage of experiencing the NorthernLights, winter sports in the area whileenjoying the seasonal foods.All the reviews on TripAdvisor.com rateboth the hotel itself and the restaurant as 100%excellent but nothing can match the personalenjoyment of this beautiful experience.Lónkot–ASFLónkoti • 566 Hofsós+354 453 7432lonkot@lonkot.comwww.lonkot.comopen every day, all day long in summer,off ering a full menu and she is happy toopen for groups of 4 or more in winter.Sólvík–KBVesturfarasetrið • 565 Hofsós+354 453 7930samstarf@visir.iswww.hofsos.isFar From HomeThe Icelandic Emigration Centre Links Past and PresentImmigration is often viewed from anoutside perspective, which followsimmigrants’ lives as they becomeestablished once arriving in a new country,rather than seeing the reasons for leavingtheir homeland. Pioneering Icelanders leftfor faraway lands in pursuit of prosperityor a new adventure. The IcelandicEmigration Centre in Hofsós tells storiesof emigration from Iceland during itsheight from 1870 until 1914.Poignant MailThe voices invoked through records andletters mailed back home tell the perilsof life in a new land. Most fared wellwith easily acquired land parcelled outto any newcomers, but some saw all oftheir children perish in lands wherethey lacked stronger links like those leftbehind in Iceland. Most of the immigrantssettled in North America, setting upcommunities throughout parts of Canadaand the United States. It is estimatedthat the equivalent of another Iceland,300,000 people with Icelandic heritage,live scattered across North America.Poverty and ClassPoverty prompted mass emigrationfrom Iceland, with people often lookingto escape conditions close to feudalservitude. Numerous people had no landand worked for large farms owned by thewealthier classes. The emigrants madeup approximately one quarter of theentire population and their difficult livesmade leaving an easier decision. Startingout fresh in countries where land wasplentiful and class distinctions negligibleallowed poor emigrants a chance to freethemselves from the rigid social mores ofIceland’s lower classes.Vagaries of NatureThe Icelandic Emigration Centre links harshwinters with heavy pack ice that ruinedfarms and diminished fi sh stocks to spikesin migration during the following years.Famine was always a threat, as the weatheroften caused living conditions to teeter onthe brink of being uninhabitable. Naturaldisasters, such as earthquakes and volcaniceruptions, led to entire villages fl eeing thefallout and resettling in countries wherenature’s violent forces were less volatile.The JourneyEach room in the Emigration Centretracks different stages of the emigrants’journey from Iceland. Following thereasons for departure are rooms recreatedto resemble the hold of a ship that tookthe Icelanders to their new homes.Initially, ships were packed with people,sleeping head to toe in cramped quartersthat they frequently shared with animals.The final section of the museum displaysphotos and letters written by Icelandersdetailing their lives in new countries.Finding FamilyPeople of Icelandic descent can eventrace their heritage by talking tomuseum staff who have access to manygenealogical records from Iceland andsettlement areas in North America.–KBEmigration CentreVesturfarasetrið • 565 Hofsós+354 453 7935hofsos@hofsos.iswww.hofsos.is218 219

North IcelandThe Pearl of DrangeyA Beach Guesthouse and a Birdwatcher’s ParadiseAn inspiring twenty minute drive upa gravel road from Sauðárkrókur onRoute 748, brings you to Reykir, an isolatedguesthouse in a spectacularly beautifulspot. From here, there are many hikingpossibilities, including a hike up Tindastóll,the mountain that towers over Reykir, to themagical stone in the lake.Viggo and his son, Helgi Rafn, run theguesthouse together today. Viggo learned itssecrets from his father, who is from Reykirand built up its travel services. His fatherused to take visitors out on his boat for atour of Drangey, where puffi ns and manyother birds mingle amongst the craggycliffs; a tradition that Viggo and Helgi Rafncontinue with 3-hour, guided boat trips, anunmissable addition to your holiday.Drangey: The Food ChestDrangey rises steeply out of the fj ord 180metres high. Its flat top is covered with grassand, with its steep nesting cliffs, is one of themost famous birdwatching sites in Iceland.In times past, when famine was over thecountry, Drangey was called ‘Skagafjörður’sFood Chest’. So many different varieties ofbirds are to be found there that today it istruly a birdwatcher’s paradise.A Place of Evil Spirits and OutlawsLocals used to believe that evil creatureslived on the island because many menplunged to their deaths trying to gathereggs and hunt the birds that lived there.According to legend, one of the bishops atHólar, Guðmundur the Good, came to blessthe island and encountered an evil spirit.When confronted, the spirit mournfully saidthat, “even evil needs a place to live”. Afterpausing for a moment, the bishop agreed toleave one part of the island unblessed so thatevil spirits had somewhere to reside.It was on the island that Grettir the Strongtook sanctuary for 3 years in the 11 th centuryafter being made an outlaw, as described inGrettir’s saga.Relax in the Pools and GuesthouseHeading back to the guesthouse, visitorswill find two natural hot pools calledGrettislaug, named after Grettir. Fed froma hot spring, they are 38°C, so a dip in thepool can quickly take away chills fromthe wind or soothe tired feet after a day’shiking. Next to the hot pot is a small pondwhere horned grebes, small red-headedbirds that build floating nests, usuallyswim. The horned grebe is relatively scarceworldwide, but is plentiful in northernIceland. Following Viggo’s directions,down the beach, past driftwood and overrocks, small, glittering pebbles can befound littering the beach under the cliff swhere crashing waves have smoothed them.Looking up, the island of Drangey appearsclose enough to reach out and touch.–KBDrangeyjarferðirFellstúni 1 • 550 Sauðárkróki+354 821 0090drangey@fjolnet.iswww.drangeyjarferdir.isThe Most Valuable ServantA Journey Back in Time—with a Treasured AnimalKnown worldwide for its famous fivegaits, remarkable strength—in spiteof its relatively humble size—and mildtemperament, the Icelandic horse is quicklybecoming a significant export product andtrademark for this little country. But longbefore it became sought-after outside thecoasts of Iceland, the nationals recognisedits wonderful characteristics and havecommonly referred to it through the agesas ‘the farmer’s most valuable servant’.Considering the importance of the horse inthe often harsh surroundings and diffi cultconditions Icelanders have had to survive in,it is not surprising to fi nd an entire museumdedicated to it. The Icelandic HorseHistory Centre at Hólar in Hjaltadalur is acaptivating museum that both educates andentertains its visitors.The museum, rightly situated inSkagafjörður, a region famous for its superbbreeding farms that continuously producehorses of great excellence, focuses oncommunicating how closely intertwined theIcelandic horse is with the nation’s history. Itgives an animated and interesting look notonly into the past but also into the life of thecommon workman and the livelihood of thepeople. In the spirit of traditional Icelandichospitality, the museum places muchemphasis on personal service. Visitors areguided through the exhibition and therebygiven the opportunity to ask questionsand chat. The exhibition is actually setin an old barn and guests are allowed totouch all the objects. In addition, there isplenty of reading material, fi lm footage andphotographs to make the experience as vividas possible. Guests also get to visit a nearbybarn to meet the Icelandic horse ‘in person’and can even mail a letter the way peopledid when horses were used by postmen.You write the letter with a feather pen andare taught to fold it in the custom of old.You then stamp it with the centre’s seal andsend it off to your loved ones. The centre is,at its core, an educational institution forresearch and communication of knowledgeabout the Icelandic horse and as such,accepts donations from those interested insupporting their work.–KBIcelandic Horse History CentreHólar í Hjaltadal • 551 Sauðárkróki+354 455 6345sogusetur@sogusetur.iswww.sogusetur.is220 221

SiglufjörðurÓ laf s fjörð urOutdoor Life to the FullAnyone who loves the outdoors will find all they wish for in FjallabyggðYou would think that, as you get closer tothe North Pole, all you would see is snowand desolation. In winter, possibly—onlythat just makes the snow sports all the moreexciting with awesome ski slopes, skating andsnowmobiles—and fishing through the ice.Fjallabyggð is almost as far north as youcan go. You feel like you’re at the end ofthe world. Yet here, above Akureyri, thetowns of Ólafsfjörður and Sigulfjörðurare alive with activity year round. Theymerged as one county in 2006 and, whenthe tunnel linking them opened in 2010,travel became much easier.Lively Activities and Long DaysWith the spring, everything is completelydifferent. The birds know it and fly in bydroves—followed by the experienced birdwatchers and photographers. The beautifulnature opens up to the hiking communitythrough a multitude of different markedhikes, with various degrees of difficulty.There is an excellent map produced by theUniversity of Hólar. The countryside isbreath-taking in its beauty and is very easilyaccessible from the two towns. It’s a landscapeof mountains and valleys, streams, waterfallsand hidden meadows, lakes and black sandbeaches, with picturesque vistas at every turn.The longer days make other activitiesboth possible and really enjoyable—liketaking midnight sailing trips across theArctic Circle or whalewatching fromÓlafsfj örður. Fishing– whether from theharbour piers, on the lakes, in the riversand streams or out on the sea—is also verypopular. Many visitors like to combinehiking, sailing, fishing or boating tripstogether, getting the most out of their days.There are two 9-hole golf courses, whereyou can play under the summer midnightsun and two swimming pools, with jacuzzisto relax in after a day’s hike.There are plenty of different types ofaccommodation and restaurants, fast-food andcafés with live music in both towns to suit everytaste as the people here love to enjoy life.Centre of CultureFjallabyggð has made up for their relativeisolation by investing in cultural activities.There is a rich heritage of award-winningmuseums like the Herring Museum, the FolkMusic Centre (with many activities for allages and tastes), the Poetry Museum (whereyou can buy poetry old and new), NaturalHistory Museum (specialising in the birdlifeof the area), Art Museum (with probablythe best private collection in the country)and festivals such as the Music festival inSiglufjörður in the first week of July.Fjallabyggð is a vibrantcommunity in which you will find awarm welcome.Fjallabyggð–ASFGránugata 24 • 580 Siglufjörður+354 464 9100nonewww.fjallabyggd.is223

North IcelandHannes Boy Café & Kaffi RauðkaLively weekends and cheerful surroundings at the ‘End of the World’Siglufjörður feels like it is as far northas you can go. This former herringcentre is set in a beautiful fjord and is avery popular place to hike from and enjoythe extraordinary birdlife and nature. Thepristine beauty of the landscape is matchedonly by the atmosphere of the town, wherethere is much to see and do.When you have built up a good appetitein the nature, you know you can dine at oneof the best restaurants outside Reykjavík.AðalbakaríBakery is by the main square of SiglufjörðurGreat variety of freshly baked breads, buns,sandwiches, pastries and cakes along witha lunch menu with soups and pasta.Aðalgötu 28 • 580 Siglufirði +354 4671720The Herring MuseumThe Herring Era Museum in Siglujörður isan award-winning museum bringing to lifethe ‘glory days’ of Iceland’s herring ishingindustry in three different buildings.Snorragötu 16 • 580 Siglufirð +354 467 1604 safn@sild.is www.sild.isHannes Boy is the bright yellow buildingright on the harbour, just a few feet fromthe boats, landing their fresh fish. Inside, thewood–beamed restaurant, with its lanternwall lights, wooden tables and chairs, isbright and cheerful. The menu includes fi shand lamb and you’re guaranteed a deliciousmeal in the inspiring atmosphere of thiswarm and welcoming fi shing town.If you’d rather have something lighter,the Kaffi Rauðka in the equally brightAllinnred building next door is your place. Thisis a lively place—especially on Friday andSaturday nights, with its live bands. It’s agreat spot for lunch, for getting to know thelocal people and enjoying their lifestyle.Rauðka–HÞGránugata 5 • 580 Siglufjörður+354 467 1550raudka@raudka.iswww.raudka.isAllinn restaurant specialisesin Icelandic home cookingand pizzas. It is situated in abeautifully restored houseoverlooking Siglufjörður’s mainsquare. It is reasonably pricedand suits people of all ages.Aðalgata 30 • 580 Siglufjörður +354 467 1111The Klondike of the NorthHvanneyri Guesthouse Invites You to Experience the Essence of IcelandWhile staple tourist attractionscan be rewarding and ofteneasily accessed, all too many visitorsleave the country without ever havingexperienced the true essence of Iceland.You won’t get any closer to it than in agenuine Icelandic fishing town, as theproprietors of Guesthouse Hvanneyri inSiglufjörður Bay will attest.Katrín Sif Andersen, one of theowners of the family-run guesthousesays that, while Siglufj örður may not beas well known as many of Iceland’s otherattractions, those who do make their waythere never regret it. In fact many whointend on staying only one night wind upextending their stay for several days – suchis the beauty of the Tröllaskagi peninsula,on which Siglufj örður is located.The Herring EraIn the mid-19 th century, Siglufj örður wasthe primary location of herring fishingduring the so-called ‘Herring Era’. Theamount of herring that was landed inSiglufjörður was so substantial that itamounted to 20% of Iceland’s totalexports during the peak years, leading thetown to be dubbed the Klondike of theNorth. The herring eventually disappearedbut the people of Siglufjörður stayedbehind, including the family in HvanneyriGuesthouse. The patriarch of the familyhad in fact worked in Siglufjörður’s fi shingindustry in one way or the other since hewas six years old right up until the last fi shprocessing plant was closed this year.Fa m i l yA ff a i rRecognising that herring was far fromthe only thing Siglufjörður had to offer,the family has lovingly set up a muchneededservice to Siglufjörður’s visitors inthe form of a Guesthouse. It is located onthe main street and is thus within armsreach of the town’s restaurants, shops andbakery, making it an ideal location toset up base during a stay in Tröllaskagi.The selection of accommodation issurprisingly wide, ranging from dormsto lavish suites, something which Katrínand her family are especially proud of –offering something to fit each and everycustomer’s taste and budget.Returning FriendsAs you can imagine when dealing with afamily-run business, Guesthouse Hvanneyriplaces special emphasis on giving theircustomers as personable and friendly serviceas possible. “We feel as if our customersappreciate this and many of them keepcoming back. In fact I just received babygifts for my newborn baby from one of ourcustomers. I guess it doesn’t get any morepersonal than that,” says Katrín.The town itself has a lot to offer in itself.Just by interacting with the friendly folkof Siglufj örður, you see a slice of Icelandyou perhaps won’t see at more populartourist spots. In addition, the people ofSiglufj örður are particularly proud of theirmuseums: The Herring Era Museum andthe Folk Music Centre, where you can delveinto Iceland’s folk music heritage, thanksto Rev. Bjarni Þorsteinsson, a one-timeresident of Siglufjörður, who diligentlycollected and documented hundreds of folksongs from the year 1880 onwards.Hvanneyri–KBAðalgata 10 • 580 Siglufirði+354 467 1506hvanneyri@simnet.iswww.hvanneyri.com224 225

North IcelandMore Iceland for less moneySinging and SilenceAll that breaks the stillness is the song of the birdsIn the early Spring, birds arrive in the Northfrom all parts of the world. Shedding theirwinter drabness, they are dressing in thefinery of their summer colours for the matingseason while the days are growing longer andsummer approaches. The lake is as clear asglass in the stillness of the evening twilight,broken only by the birdsong.We are high in the North, on theTröllaskagi Peninsula at the Brimnes Hóteland Bungalows, located on the banks ofÓlafsfjörður. The hotel offers 11 double226rooms with bath, and 8 Finnish-style logcabins, accommodating 5–6 people each.The self-contained holiday cottages areperfect for families or groups and includea lounge, kitchenette, bath, ground-floorbedroom and sleeping loft for the kids,as well as a cosy, private hot-tub on eachveranda, where you can relax over a bottleof wine from the hotel’s extensive wine list.Whether you are relaxing or involved inthe exertions of an active sport, the hotel’srestaurant offers everything from quicksnacks to full course meals.Get the Most from the AreaHotel manager, Axel Pétur Ásgeirsson,is always on hand to advise and organisesightseeing and activities in the region:boat trips, trout fi shing on the lake, whalewatching,mountain hiking, kayaking,diving, horse riding, golf, river rafting, skiingand snowmobiling in the winter season, artexhibitions, museums historical places ofinterest and, of course, bird watching and more.Food in Many FormsLet Brimnes Hótel’s in-house chef whip up aquick bite or a 3-course meal in the restaurantor share a bottle of wine from the hotel’sextensive wine list whilst relaxing in the hottub.Perhaps you’d like to try your hand attrout fishing—the hotel will supply you withall that you need—including the boat.Four Seasons for AllThe beauty of this area is not confinedto a single season. Each season presents acompletely different appearance and offersdifferent activities. No matter when you visit,there is always plenty to do. In winter, whenthe mountains catch the sun’s glow, paintinga surrealistic picture, you can go skiingor snowmobiling. That jacuzzi is quite anexperience afterwards, watching the NorthernLights dance across the sky. In spring, watchthe birds arriving and photograph the newlyhatched chicks as they struggle from theirshells. Summer is full of life and activities thatcarry through the autumn as the changingcolours bring a beauty all their own to the area.–ASFBrimnes HótelBylgjubyggð 2 • 625 Ólafsfirði+354 466 2400hotel@brimnes.iswww.brimnes.isBlue Lagoon SchedulePickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request09:00 / 10:30 / 12:30 / 14:45 / 16:45The South Coast - Skógafoss - VíkOur tour takes us along the south shore and on to thecharming village of Vík. Highlights on this tour: WaterfallsSkógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. The basalt columns atsandy beach of Reynis- fjara and the glacier Sólheimajökull,where you can touch the ice. We drive along thevolcano Eyjafjallajökull, last eruption in 2010.Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00Duration: 10 hoursProfessional english guidanceBlue Lagoon to Reykjavikk12:30 / 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 20:30 * ViaKeflavikAirportBlue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport12:30 / 14:00 / 21:00**Grand Golden Circle** From 15. June – 15. Sept.Highlights visited: The crater Kerið, the farming districts inthe south, Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. Thewaterfall Gullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, includingthe Rift valley and the Rock of law which was the site ofthe first Viking parliament.Time for lunch at Geysir (not incl. in price).Pick up time: Daily at 08:00Duration: 8 hoursProfessional english guidancePlease notice: You can join The Blue Lagoon evening tour after arrival.Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of IcelandPlease book in advance.Be ready in front of your hotel.Pickup can take up to 30 min.Tel: +354 511 2600 E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is bustravel.isGolden Circle AfternoonTo airport passengers;we keep your luggage duringyour Blue Lagoon visit.Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir,the waterfall Gullfoss, the spectacular Geysir and thevolcanic crater Kerið.Pick up time: Tue/Thu/Sat/Sun at 12:30Duration: 5-6 hoursProfessional english guidance

Enjoy Akureyri on a BudgetA Warm and Friendly Guesthouse that has All You NeedSúlur Guesthouse is popular with budgetconscioustravellers to Akureyri. It has 8rooms with both made-up beds and sleepingbag accommodation. With two kitchens, oneon each floor, it offers self-catering and has alaundrette. There is free wireless internet and TV.Set on the hillside next to the campsite,overlooking the town and the fjord, it isclose to the geothermally heated swimmingpool, the beautiful botanical gardens and agrocery shop. If you’d rather not walk, thefree bus service will take you down to thetown for quick access to all the amenities,or on a tour around the town.Súlur is open all year-round, so it makes agreat choice for skiers taking a winter breakto enjoy the slopes above the town. Duringthe summer months, from 1 st of June tomid-August, an additional 12 rooms areavailable which are ideal for families orsmall groups. They consist of 3 apartments,comprising 4 bedrooms each, again, withself-catering facilities in every apartment.Súlur Guesthouse–ASFÞórunnarstræti 93 • 600 Akureyri+354 461 1160sulur@islandia.iswww.sulurguesthouse.isWhere Fitness Folk EatBesti bitinn’s fresh food is a hit with health-loving peopleClose to Akureyri’s walking street andthe harbour is a good location forpeople who want to get their meal quicklybut eat something fresh and healthy.Besti bitinn is well known for its fish andchips, so I decided to try, too. It surpassedwhat I’d heard about it - fresh, firm butsoft and full of flavour. My partner triedthe chicken salad and I saw why so manypeople in the health and fitness communityin Akureyri come to eat here.Healthy food and prices don’t competeOf course, some people are not soconcerned about their health but justwant to eat something that tastesgood and isn’t expensive, so the usualcarbonated drinks are also available withtheir meals. Whether they realise it ornot, though, they are eating fish freshfrom the boats that just landed or thechicken that’s never been frozen or lostits food value in the cooking.The nice thing about this restaurant isthat you can sit in a friendly, comfortableatmosphere and mix and match theingredients to your own taste whenordering. We liked that and will be joiningthe regulars whenever we’re in Akureyri.Besti Bitinn–ASFSkipagata 2 • 600 Akureyri+354 578 6400fiskistjarnan@internet.ison facebookAkureyri 229

North IcelandThe Deep Valley in the NorthIn Eyjafjarðarsveit you can take part in the farm lifeAll is not always what it seems inIceland. A town is not merely atown and the countryside is not eitherwilderness or farmland. The valley southof Akureyri in the north of Iceland is oneof those areas diffi cult to defi ne. It has theatmosphere of farmland, offers a variety oftourist attractions and activities any townwould be proud of and accommodationranging from camping sites to lovely hotels.The Eyjafjarðará river runs through thisnarrow valley, which is surprisingly long atabout 50 kilometres. The farms are mostlylocated along the riverbank with the roadcrisscrossing the river via a number ofbridges, making access to everything onoffer to the tourist quick and easy.Comfortable guesthousesEyjafj arðarsveit has, of course, an excellentoutdoor swimming pool with hot tubs andfun slides, a lovely playground for youngsters,museums, cafés, an ice-cream factory with anice cream bar, a vegetarian restaurant whichalso offers a raw food menu, horse rentalfarms, river-fishing and two golf courses.When planning a holiday with your familyand friends in Iceland, the many guesthousesin Eyjafjarðarsveit are a real treat. There isBrúnalaug Guesthouse, a bungalow situated700 metres from the main road providingabsolute peace and quiet. Further north isÖngulsstaðir, where the old barn has beenrenovated and now houses a tiny hotel whereall rooms come with en suite bathrooms, andthe lovely Lamb Inn restaurant. Nearby, isHóll Guesthouse, an apartment with twodouble rooms and all necessary facilities andUppsalir Guesthouse which can accommodateup to ten individuals. Uppsalir and HrafnagilGuesthouse, 12 kilometres south of Akureyri,invite their guests to take part in theirbeautiful farm life, which is especially lovedby city youngsters. Family–friendly HrafnagilGuesthouse offers five large rooms andfacilities for babies and children.Then there is the Leifsstaðir, one of theloveliest hotels in Iceland. An hotel with a view,lovely verandas and its very own golf course.Kátur is a Horse Rental at Kaupangs bakkar,offering guided tours ranging from 1 to 3hours, every day of the week from 8 th June to1 st September each year. They also offer customhorseback riding trips for groups of any variety.Raw food and farm ice creamThe real treat in Eyjafjarðarsveit has gotto be Holtsel, offering their very ownfarmhouse ice cream, labelled Holtsels-Hnoss. The ice creams are made from cream,milk, yoghurt, full-fat, low-fat, non-fat andsorbets. Something delicious for everyone.A short distance away is Kaffi Kú or CaféCow, a bar specialising in whisky along witha vast selection of beer and, of course, coffeeand quite different cakes, like their liquoricecake. A truly original place.The Silva vegetarian restaurant issteadily becoming one of the mostpopular raw food restaurants in Iceland,offering a good vegetarian and raw foodmenu, fresh shakes and juices.When travelling in this area in latesummer, try not to miss the handicraftscelebration held each year in August.As you drive around Eyjafjarðarsveit,be sure to visit the various old churchesin the area, each with its own specialhistory and architecture.And last, but not least, do not missthe Smámunasafnið, an original and funmuseum containing one man’s collectionof odd and everyday pieces. A day spent inEyjafjarðarsveit is a day well spent.–SSEyjafjarðarsveitSkólatröð 9 • 601 Akureyri+354 463 0600esveit@esveit.iswww.eyjafjardarsveit.isBásar Guesthouse in GrímseyWhere Everybody Knows Your NameFor those used to living in metropolitanareas or even small towns, a visit toGrímsey will surely change the way youfeel about your neighbours. Grímsey isa tiny island of only two square miles,located 25 miles north of Iceland and has apopulation of less than a hundred. The smallpopulation ensures that everyone has a sharein the community‘s responsibilities and thateveryone knows everybody.For example one inhabitant, RagnhildurHjaltadóttir, shares the duties of being themanager of local guesthouse, Básar, operatorof a small banking branch in Grímsey,airport manager and chairwoman for thelocal women’s club. “In order to live happilyin such a tight-knit community, you haveto be 100% content with yourself and begenerous to the community. We have anextremely active social life and there isreally no other alternative than to take partin it. We tend to celebrate every occasion wecan think of and most people I know fromthe mainland tell me that the social lifehere is much more energetic. For exampleour community centre is sometimes evenbooked the whole week through and whenit’s someone’s birthday the whole island isinvited,” says Ragnhildur.Activities in Grímsey are plentiful. Youhave the option of going sea angling, whichcan be arranged in Básar. You can spend theday bird watching as the island hosts variousspecies of birds. If in doubt as to where thebest spot is, simply ask the locals who willgladly point them out to you. Then of course,you can just explore the entire island by foot,see the church, chat with the fishermen at thepier (though not all of them speak Englishbut they’ll welcome you anyway) or drop byat the community centre and see if there is abingo game or a lottery going on.Ragnhildur says island visitors areuniformly welcomed to the island andcommonly invited to join in on whateverevents the locals are celebrating. “We like tothink of this environment as more personalthan in many crowded populations. Forexample, I never leave my guests unattendedand I often take guests staying at Básar for adrive around the island and introduce themto our daily lives” says Ragnhildur.Básar offers 18 beds in eight different rooms,either made up or for sleeping bags. Breakfastis on offer, as well as full meals if requested.The guesthouse is located next to the ArcticCircle and you only have to take three stepsoutside the guesthouse to cross it. From 12thJune until 20th August, flights depart forGrímsey daily at 13:00 from Akureyri. Prior tothat time, flights depart three times a week. Aferry also leaves from Dalvík at 9:00 am threetimes a week (Mon, Wed, Fri).BásarBásum • 611 Grímsey+354 467 3103gagga@simnet.isnone230 231

North IcelandTheNorthernPlaygroundAkureyri, the Base to Reach All the Northern Sights and HighlightsThe dozen inhabitants in 1786,clinging to the side of Iceland’slongest fj ord, Eyjafj örður, probably neverimagined their brave struggle wouldultimately produce a town of 18,000people with all the services of a major city.Akureyri is not as big as any of the world’scities but it provides all the features and servicesexpected of a big city in a very compact form,so that everything is within a short distance.Take, for instance, winter activitieslike skiing. The family-friendly slopes areunder 10 minutes from the airport and thehotels. Likewise the horseriding tours, boattrips, bird watching, shopping—to namea few—are all so close, you can almosttouch them. You name it, it’s close-by.The weather, with its combination ofcrisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—atthe peak of their cycle this winter—makes aholiday here memorable.Cultural Centre of the NorthWhen it comes to culture, Akureyri has itall: museums, art galleries, internationalexhibitions, conference facilities, musicconcerts of all genres, opera, theatres andcinemas showing the latest fi lms.It has well over 20 restaurants, coveringboth Icelandic and international cuisine, withtop chefs who create their own innovativecuisine. Cafés, each with their individualspeciality abound, while local microbreweriesand farms offering food tasting area fascinating addition to the food scene.For groups and incentive tours, Akureyrioffers such a wide range of activities,events and opportunities, maximising thetime available. There are a multitude oftours covering every interest from flying tocaving, from fi shing to the Hidden People,walking to whale-watching.Sports of all kindsSport activities are very popular in theNorth and many sports are represented inthis dynamic community.The geothermally–heated swimmingpools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi areopen—and very popular—all year round.The Arctic Open Golf championship isplayed on the most northerly 18-hole coursein the world, just outside the city undersnow–covered mountains and the midnightsun. You can hire clubs if you need them andrelax in the club house afterwards.See the SightsAkureyri is also a service base for many of themost important tourist destinations in NorthIceland. From here, you can visit Mývatn,Dettifoss—the most powerful waterfallin Europe, the islands of Hrísey, with itspowerful healing energy and Grímsey,straddling the Arctic Circle, see volcanos andboiling mud pools and, in fact, reach all thepearls of the north in under 2 hours.Easy AccessFlights from both Keflavík international andReykjavík airports take just 40 min. Scheduledbuses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. Thereare numerous tours, some of which go throughthe highlands during summer months. Thebus service is free in town.Naturally, every common form oftransport is available: car, bike, boat,horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type ofaccommodation is also on hand, from 4-starhotels to camp sites.Akureyri has it all and an outgoingfriendly welcome, too.Akureyrarstofa–ASFStrandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri+354 450 1050akureyrarstofa@akureyri.iswww.visitakureyri.is232233

North IcelandTheOld Townof AkureyriOne Hundred and Fifty Years Back in TimeThe town of Akureyri has been called thecapital of the north and rightly so, as itserves as a centre for transport, services andculture, connecting the north to the rest ofthe country. Akureyri, however has a uniqueand distinctive character which makes it anessential stop for anyone travelling north. Thecore of its character can be found in the OldTown of Akureyri —called Innbærinn.Only a few minutes walk from the citycentre, the area is a monument to Akureyri’sculture and history. Many of the city’soldest houses have been preserved andtoday are homes to people, businesses, cafésand museums, giving visitors a chance toexperience the town’s rich history. The OldTown’s location plays no small role in itscharm as a cliff forms a natural border tothe north and the ocean to the east.Where the Past Meets the PresentIn recent years, steps have been taken tosecure the Old Town’s legacy, both in termsin preservation and accessibility. Informativesignposts have recently been placedthroughout the Old Town giving visitors achance to learn about life in a different era.Hanna Rósa Sveinsdóttir, at the Museumof Akureyri, says it has been important totake these steps to preserve and maintain theOld Town, but at the same time, adaptingit to modern day life. “In my mind, theOld Town is a historical monument whichconnects the town’s history to the present,making it completely unique,” says HannaRósa. “We’ve managed to maintain theoriginal street planning even though theOld Town has been inhabited all this time.The townsfolk respect the town’s historyand when it comes to renovations and newbuildings, it is always done with that inmind,” says Hanna Rósa.Akureyri is now celebrating the 150 yearsthat have passed since it was given its officialtitle as a township. The name Akureyrihowever, dates back to the 15th century,but it was in 1778 that the first dwellingwas built. The oldest standing buildingis Laxdalshús, built in 1795, which todayhouses a restaurant & café that serves localdishes. The Old Town is replete with oldpicturesque timber houses which give thetown its relaxed and charming ambiance.History Captivated in MuseumsFittingly, the Old Town is home to manymuseums. Nonnahús is the childhood homeof one of Iceland’s most celebrated writers, JónSveinsson, author of a series of books aboutthe adventures of a boy named Nonni, andtranslated into over 30 languages. Built in 1850,it has been renovated into a museum dedicatedto his life and works—a landmark in Akureyri.The Museum of Akureyri is located inAkureyri’s first villa with an extensive gardenwhere forestry was started in 1899 and explainswhy the city is so blessed with vegetation. Themuseum is dedicated to everyday life fromhistoric times to the present, and includesart and photography displays.You’ll also find museums dedicated tomotorcycles, industry and aviation. A day inthe Old Town visiting museums will thusleave you enlightened about almost everyfacet of life in the north imaginable.The Best Ice Cream in all the Land?Icelanders have a strange obsession withice cream and will bicker to no end aboutwhich shop has the best. Considered astrong contender by many is Brynja, theshop in the Old Town, where ice creamconnoisseurs from all over the country stopby every time they’re in Akureyri.However you choose to spend your time, avisit to Akureyri’s Old Town it is well worthyour while, taking in the sights and goingjust a little bit back in time.–VAG234235

North IcelandWinter Whale Watchingfrom AkureyriNorth Sailing’s Traditional Oak Fishing Boats Sail to the WhalesStarting this winter, North Sailing goeswhale watching right from the centreof the town of Akureyri. Interestinglyenough, they are the first company tooffer scheduled trips from Akureyri—justas they were the first to offer them fromHúsavík 18 years ago. They’re fi nding largehumpback whales in groups right in thefj ord just a short sail away.Whale watching at any time is exciting,to see these massive creatures surfacing—and sometimes, jumping clear out of thewater close to the ship. Thousands of peoplehave taken photos but the experience ofseeing the whales is something that willnever be forgotten. It is amazing to get soclose to them.Get the Best of All WorldsIf you’re visiting Iceland to enjoy the wintersports activities and to see the NorthernLights, the capital of the North, Akureyri, isthe perfect place for you. In winter, Akureyri,on Eyjafj örður, the longest fj ord in Iceland,provides the opportunity to see the familiesof whales feeding close up whereas the bay atHúsavík, where North Sailing is ranked as theNo. 1 attraction, is more open to the commoncold northerly winds in the wintertime.The tour itself lasts a full three hoursand includes hot chocolate and local snackrefreshments. Warm over suits, hats, gloves,blankets and raincoats are available in case ofany changes in weather. With a comfortableviewing area on deck and a warm loungebelow, the sturdy, well protected Náttfariis the ideal vessel for the tours and itssuccess rate is very high. Take a look at thecomments on TripAdvisor.com to get a feelfor what to expect on the tours. The reviewsare overwhelmingly positive.Bringing History Back to LifeSailing traditional Icelandic schooners usedto be almost a memory of the past untilbrothers, Hörður and Árni Sigurbjarnarsonpainstakingly restored a 20-ton oak vesselto its former glory and started takingvisitors whale and puffi n watching from thenorthern town of Húsavík.Their company, North Sailing, beganin 1994 with one vessel, the Knörrinn,but news spread quickly and their toursbecame so popular that two more vesselswere renovated. The Haukur and then laterThe Hildur were fitted with traditionalequipment in the spirit of the 18 th centuryshark schooners that used to fish off thecoasts of northern Iceland. All the boatsare outfitted to modern standards withoutlosing the beauty and charm of thetraditional oak wood fi nish.Summer Tours for all tastesDuring the summer months, there are up to 12tours daily from Húsavík alone, not to mentionsailings from Ólafsfjörður and Akureyri inEyjafj örður fj ord. The evening trips, sailingunder the midnight sun are special!There is the option to combine a trip witha 2-hour horse riding tour from SaltvíkHorse Centre, south of Húsavík.For the more adventurous, there is a2-day ‘Edge of the Arctic’ tour eating andsleeping on board, stopping off at Flateyand Grímsey islands. What food couldbe fresher than fish caught en route andgrilled on board! Eagle Air fl ies passengersdirectly from Reykjavik airport to Húsavíkfor this tour so if you have limited time,you really get the most from your visit.The ultimate is an 8-day tour, fl ying fromReykjavik airport to Greenland, sailing onthe schooner, ‘Hildur’, with treks inland tobreathtaking views and a BBQ on the beach,eating locally-prepared musk ox meat.Lunch or Dinner at the HarbourThe beautiful Gamli Baukur restaurant,with its large verandas overlookingHúsavík harbour, offers a great diningexperience, surrounded by maritimememorabilia to complete your tour.With its fresh seafood, both local andinternational dishes, you couldn’t ask for abetter meal and, as the cherry on the cake,it is a hot venue for live music.Norðursigling–ASFHafnarstétt 9 • 640 Húsavík+354 464 7272info@nordursigling.iswww.nordursigling.is237237

North IcelandA Hundred Years of FlowersAkureyri’s Botanical Gardens has thousands of plants and treesLystigarðurinn Akureyri is one of thenorthernmost botanical gardens inthe world. It was founded in 1912 by fourof the most prominent ladies of Akureyri.They dreamed of creating an oasis wherethe townspeople could relax and enjoy thecolours of spring and summer after the trialsand tribulations of the harsh island winters.Although the town council agreed to a publicpark and provided money to start the creation,the botanic section had to wait. It wasn’topened until 1957. Today, there are about6,600 alien varieties growing in the garden inbeds and the nursery. A further 430 species ofthe native varieties are to be found there, withmore being constantly added to the collection.The park has been enlarged three timessince 1912 and is now about 3.6 ha and liesat 40-50 m altitude on Eyrarlandsvegurroad near midtown. There are several aimsto the Botanical Garden’s activity. Themost important task is to provide northernIceland in general with trees, shrubs andperennials that fulfi l the demands of beautyand hardiness. The garden also functions asa gene bank for hardy plants suitable to theweather conditions in Iceland. The IcelandicFlora contains rather few species comparedto other countries. There are around 500species at the moment and most of them aredisplayed in Akureyri’s Hortus Botanicus.Further, the general idea is for multiple use,such as a seed-exchange, public information,education and recreation.Part of the ladies’ dream was to have a caféin the park but they did not live to see thatpart realised. Indeed, the townspeople hadto wait a hundred years for the café whichfi nally opened in June this year.The park has been immensely popularright from the start, both with Icelanders andforeign visitors. It is a tranquil and colourfulplace, with wonderful aromas, a good café –and exceptionally family friendly.–SSLystigarður AkureyrarThe Café in the FlowersThe newly opened café brings refreshment to the Botanical GardensAkureyri’s Botanical Gardens celebratedtheir centennial anniversary in2012. In June, a new café opened to providefood and drinks to visitors to this beautifulgarden. Tall trees line the pathways, evidencethat, even at such a high latitude, it is possibleto grow here. The café refl ects these lovelytrees in its large picture windows on eitherside, the varnished brown wooden windowframes forming trunks and branches.Comfortable All Year RoundThese windows give a panoramic view ofthe gardens from the comfort of couchesand chairs inside the café. Since it is openthe whole year, visitors can enjoy thechanging seasons, whether sitting outsidein the sunshine or inside, sheltered from theelements. A range of snacks and drinks arealways available, making this a very enjoyablespot to meet, to relax or simply to take in thebeauties of the plants and trees that surroundit. Unlike most cafés with just tables andchairs to sit at, there are two lounge areas withcouches, arm chairs and a low lounge table,making for a very congenial atmosphere.Bask in the BeautyEven though set high on the hill above thetown, close to the hospital and the church thatstands as a landmark over the town, the gardensthemselves are a tranquil spot, sheltered bythe trees from the worst of the winter winds.However, there is nothing more welcomingthan the lights of the café after wandering thepaths of the garden and the prospect of a nice,hot drink and snack, relaxing with friends atone of the tables or lounge areas.On the warm, sunny days though, youdon’t really want to be inside and the caféhas a large patio where the tables and chairsare set so you can enjoy the ambience of thegardens, soak up the sun while enjoying yourcoffee and cakes. A display of large photosof different flowers forms an attractive windbreakand backdrop to your conversation.–ASFCafé BjörkEyrlandsvegur • 600 Akureyri+354 462 7487bjorgvin@akureyri.iswww.lystigardur.akureyri.isEyrarlandsvegi 30 • 600 Akureyri+354 460 5600info@cafebjork.iswww.cafebjörk.is238 239

North IcelandThe North Eats ThaiThe Popular Krua Siam Restaurant Feeds Folk in AkureyriWhat inspired experienced Thai cooksand kitchen assistants to leave theexotic lands of South East Asia to venture tothe Land of the Vikings, I cannot imagine.But I‘m very glad they did. After openingthe Reykjavik food scene to their uniqueblend of Thai ingredients and Icelandicmeats and vegetables, the intrepid cookscontinued north to Akureyri.Established in 2007 and now under thesame management as the Reykjavik KruaThai restaurant, it is easy to fi nd Krua Siamopposite the famous Hof concert hall byAkureyri’s harbour.Set ApartBesides the experienced Thai staff, what setsthese restaurants apart is that the ingredientsare all imported from Thailand, apart fromthe fresh meat and vegetables. All the spices,rice and noodles, all the special ingredientsthat are uniquely Thai are brought indirectly from Thailand. However, the meatand vegetables are pure Icelandic and this iswhat contributes to the delicious fl avour inevery meal. It’s this special blend of Thai andIcelandic foods that makes the food so special– and doubtless, contributes to its popularity.Thai food is best served fresh as its flavouris at its best—and that‘s how the Thai cookshere serve it, freshly prepared and cooked toorder on the spot.Eat What You Like for LessBoth Krua Siam and Krua Thai areknown for their reasonable prices. Inaddition, Krua Siam offers a full fivecourse lunch buffet every day between11:30 and 13:30. Here, you can eat allyou like for the same good price.With a large range of dishes to choosefrom, you can choose different plates and eatas the Thais eat in their homeland—takinga piece from each of a number of differentdishes. It’s a great way to eat as a family or agroup of friends.Drinks to go with itThere are a number of wines and spiritsthat go well with Thai food, so KruaSiam has a bar and stocks a wide rangeof alcoholic beverages – along with juicesand soft drinks.Catering to the NeedThe restaurant also provides Take Away andHome Delivery options, whether for oneperson, a party or a special event. However,if you are down by Akureyri’s harbour atlunch or dinner time, Krua Siam is reallythe place to visit for the real Thai experience.–ASFKrua SiamStrandgötu 13 • 600 Akureyri+354 466 3800kruasiam@kruasiam.iswww.kruasiam.isPure and NaturalNorth Iceland’s only Certifi ed Organic Skin Care ProducerThe mountains reach high aboveNorth Iceland’s Eyjafjörður. Withthe fl owers and herbs gathered by hand ontheir slopes, Urtasmiðjan or the HerbalWorkshop creates the Sóla range of pureorganic skin care oils, balms and creams.Iceland’s pure air and unpollutedsoil provide the ideal conditions for theplants to grow slowly, thus increasingtheir potency.Pure sources, pure process, pure productThe Herbal Workshop products are allproduced by hand, without the use ofmachinery. No chemical or petroleum base,artificial colourings or fragrances are usedin any of the products—just pure herbaloils and bees wax, with natural vitamin Eoil providing the anti-oxidant. Urtasmiðjanimports high quality, expensive carrier oils,such as Moroccan oil and coconut butter.All the products contain Omega 3 and 6oils that store vitamins and are so vital to theprotection and nourishment of the skin. Theherbs that are used are known for their provenpositive effects on the skin and for healing.Protect your skin from pollutionToday’s lifestyles in polluted cities, makeit important to look after your skin andSóla products organic purity provides thebest possible care. The product line isavailable online and from selected healthand tourist shops. Your skin is vital toyour health, so protecting it makes sense.–ASFUrtasmiðjanFossbrekku, 601 Akureyri+354 462 4769urtasmidjan@urtasmidjan.iswww.urtasmidjan.is240 241

North IcelandA PerfectDay in HríseyTravel back in time on the Pearl of EyjafjörðurHrísey, Iceland’s second largest island,is in the middle of Eyjafjörður.With 200 inhabitants, it is part of themunicipality of Akureyri and alwaysreferred to as the Pearl of Eyjafj örður.Visiting Hrísey is pure fun and makes aninspiring day trip for groups or individuals. Thevillage is really cute and clean, as all the housesare very old, though beautifully renovated andpainted in bright colours. Travellers cannot taketheir cars to the island, so it is peaceful. There area few cars on the island but most transportationis by tractor. The number of tractors give theisland a special flavour and it is common tosee a tractor parked outside a home insteadof a car. As a matter of fact, there is nowhereelse in Iceland with as many tractors percapita as on Hrísey. The island is easy toreach as there are trips every two hours fromthe morning until 9 pm, all year round bythe Sævar ferry from ÁrsskógssandurVillage, 35 km from Akureyri. It onlytakes 15 minutes to sail there.It is possible to take in many of thekey spots—and more—in the two hoursbetween the ferry trips, making it aninteresting visit for tour groups. From thepier, there is a fun trip with the tractortaxi—a hay cart towed by an elderly, sedatetractor. The driver serves as a guide, tellinghis passengers tales and history during theforty minute trip around the island. Youstill have ample time to enjoy a meal at theBrekka restaurant, Kaffi Hrísey or Júllabúðand pick up some handmade souvenirs fromthe Perlan souvenir shop or take a stroll.Staying longer enables you to thoroughlyenjoy the island, swim in the beautiful newgeothermal pool, go fi shing and have a goodsleep during the arctic nights, either in one ofthe guesthouses: Jónatanhús, Mínukot (www.visithrisey.is) or Brekka (www.brekkahrisey.is), or at the island’s camp site. There arenumerous pleasant hiking trails and othertypes of tours are available by land or sea.The Tourist office, located in theMuseum of Shark-Jörundur is open dailyduring the summertime.All bookings for accommodation,activities and tours can be made there allyear around, on the website or by phoneat the number below.Museums of Life at Sea and HomeThere are two interesting museums onthe island. In the oldest house, built by alegendary figure called Shark-Jörundur,visitors can learn about the history of theisland as well as shark fishing in Iceland.Shark fi shing was not for the faint of heartin earlier times, only those of exceptionalstrength and endurance could survive in thearctic cold and tumultuous seas.Holt, the Memorial Museum of AldaHalldórsdóttir, shows a typical workingclasshome from 1900 onwards, a storyof the old world meeting the new, withfurnishings, gadgets, handicraft embroideryand photographs of old times.A Birdwatching ParadiseThe island is known for its bird life, as about40 bird species nest there, the most abundantbeing the ptarmigan. One reason there is anunusually large concentration of birds is thatall hunting of birds and gathering of eggs isbanned on the island and there are no predatorssuch as foxes, minks, mice or rats. Therefore anumber of the birds are so unafraid of man thatyou can come up very close to them.–AMBHríseySkólavegi • 630 Hrísey+354 695 0077hrisey@hrisey.netwww.hrisey.net242243

North IcelandEnjoy the Peace and NatureVisit Hrísey can Organise Your Visit to this Special Northern IslandHrísey, a picturesque island in themiddle of Eyjafjörður, is a placeunlike anywhere else. With less than 200inhabitants, it is part of the municipality ofAkureyri and always referred to as the Pearlof Eyjafjörður. Most of the houses were builtin the early 1900’s. The local ‘bus’ is a haycart towed by a very respectable tractor.It is easy to enjoy the peace and energythat Hrísey offers. There are pleasant hikingtrails all over the island. The one destinationno one should miss is the lighthouse, witha view towards the arctic to the north, thehighlands to the south, the sunrise to theeast and the sunset to the west. It is likebeing on top of the world. You can fi nd amap of Hrísey aboard the ferry to the islandor on the visithrisey.is website.What Visit Hrísey can plan for you, is:1-4 days guided hiking around Hrísey orthe area surrounding the island, in threelanguages: English, German and Italian.They also offer various boat trips fromHrísey. With fi shing gear on board, it canbe spectacular to go sailing through tranquilsummer days or towards the midnight sun.AccommodationVisit Hrísey offers two lovely guesthouses.Firstly, Jónatanshús, which has beenredecorated in the house’s original spirit,with three large bedrooms for up to ninepersons, two bathrooms and a jacuzzi in thegarden. Secondly, Mínukot, which has onelarge bedroom and can accommodate up tosix persons. Both are open all year, centrallylocated, a short distance from the restaurantand the swimming pool.Museums and birdsThere are two interesting museums on theisland. The Shark Museum inhabits the oldesthouse on the island. Here visitors can learn allabout the history of shark fishing in Iceland,a profession not suited to those faint ofheart. Holt, the Memorial Museum of AldaHalldórsdóttir, shows a typical working-classhome from the year 1900 onwards.A birdwatching house has been built wherevisitors can observe large concentrations ofbirds. All bird-hunting and egg-gatheringis banned on the island and it is free ofpredators like fox, mink, mouse and rat.It only takes 15 minutes to sail to the islandfrom Árskógssandur and, in a two-hour visit,you can see the interesting spots. You haveample time to grab a meal at one of the verynice restaurants, although it would be betterto stay longer and thoroughly enjoy the island.Visit Hrísey–SSNorðurvegur 17 • 630 Hrísey+354 892 8033info@visithrisey.isvisithrisey.isHome to the Raven’s RoostHrafninn Guesthouse, one of Akureyri’s FinestOne of the most comfortable, yetreasonably priced guesthouses inAkureyri is located in the heart of thedowntown area. Hrafninn Guesthouseoccupies a rather stately, classic, double storiedhouse built in 1932, which greatly adds toits character and charm, lending more of ahotel atmosphere to it. Each room is tastefullyfurnished and comes with a flat-screen tv, andprivate bath. The comfy beds are made up withfluffy duvets and quality linens.An Outdoor ParadiseWhy Húsabakki is a Smart Choice to Enjoy NatureNature based and education tourism isHúsabakki’s focus, located at the edgeof the Friðland Svarfdæla Nature Reserve inthe north of Iceland, a 30 minute drive fromAkureyri. Open all year, Húsabakki is anexcellent choice for nature lovers surrounded,as it is, by the high mountains of the Trollpeninsula, providing numerous hiking routesand both easy and challenging conditions forback-country skiing and mountaineering.Húsabakki is owned and run by localfirms and individuals and is connected tovast hiking trails with signboards and birdobservation points. It is a birdwatcher’sparadise with the oldest wetland reserve inIceland, created by the valley farmers in 1979.Húsabakki offers a range of accommodationthat can easily house 62 people in 18 rooms ofvarious sizes and prices. A sleeping-bag facilityin a 16–bed dormitory, large and spaciousfamily rooms and double rooms are available.It also has a lovely campsite with access to awashing machine, cooking facilities, internetconnection and bathrooms.Close to EverythingFrom its central location, everything is withineasy reach; 5 or 10 minutes on foot are all youneed to pop out for a movie or shop for suppliesto make your own meals in Hrafninn’s fullyequipped communal kitchen.In summer, be sure to make use of thebarbecue on the furnished terrace for theultimate touch of summer living. Openyear round, Hrafninn Guesthouse is oneof Akureyri’s finest.Hrafninn is the Icelandic word for Raven.Gistihúsið Hrafninn–EMVBrekkugötu 4 • 600 Akureyri+354 661 9050info@hrafninn.iswww.hrafninn.isAt the location is a sports field, aplayground, an outdoor kitchen witha fireplace and, nearby in the valley,opportunities to play golf, go swimming,canoeing and take a whale watching boattour, go horse-riding, take yoga classes andso much more. There are also excellent hikingguides, experts on the history and nature ofSvarfaðardalur and the Nature Reserve.Far from the madding crowd, theatmosphere at Húsabakki is tranquil andcosy, the service warm and personal andstaying there for a few days is relaxing andcertainly power-boosting.Húsabakki–SSSvarfaðardalur • 621 Dalvík+354 859 7811husabakki@husabakki.iswww.husabakki.is244 245

North IcelandRiding the NorthHorse Riding Tours in North Iceland with Pólar HestarPólar Hestar Tours of North Iceland isone of Iceland’s top destinations for anIcelandic horse riding experience. The serenityof countryside in the vicinity of Eyjafjörðurfjord near Grenivík, is the backdrop to anarray of exciting excursions for intermediateto advanced riders of all ages, taking place insummertime at Pólar Hestar Tours.An Introduction to Set the SceneAfter crossing the sea-level road fromAkureyri that bridges the east and west flanksof Eyjafj örður fj ord, the road winds its wayto the mountaintop where you are met withan astonishing view of snow-capped peaksin the distance, the little picturesque townof Akureyri far below and the fjord itself,the longest in Iceland, silently stretchingout to the Arctic Sea. Tranquil farms withfresh coats of red paint on their rooftopsand fl ocks of white sheep dot the hillsides,the lush greens of the cultivated land arecomplimented by the deep blues of sky andsea. This then, is the road to Grýtubakkifarm, home of Pólar Hestar Tours.Ring around the Midnight SunA mythical ride through the fragranceof spring, with bright nights and theawakening nature are characteristics of thistour, which consists of several different ridesand sightseeing by bus. You will experiencethe days around the midnight sun visitingthe famous turf houses of Laufás, the whalesat Husavík and the amazing area around thebreath-taking Lake Mývatn.A 7-day, 6-night tour for intermediate riders.Ride with the Elves TourRide to Grenivík, stopping at the LaufásTurf farm and museum. Beautiful viewsover the fjord and the island of Hrisey.Extinct volcanoes, silent glaciers andhidden waterfalls surround you and, at thehighest point, a tremendous view out tothe Arctic Ocean awaits your gaze.A 7-day, 6-night tour for intermediate riders.Fascinating North IcelandYou will ride from Fremstafell farmhouseto the impressive Goðafoss waterfall,into the Bárðardalur valley and up to thefamous Aldeyrarfoss waterfall, known for itsintriguing basaltic columns and onwards toexplore the volcanic region of Lake Mývatn. This is a challenging tour of 8 days and 7nights for very experienced riders.Polar Hestar Tours which celebrates its 28thanniversary in 2013, is run by the family teamof Stefán, Juliane and son, Simon. It has been afirm favourite with horse lovers from numerouscountries, many of whom return year after year.Pólar Hestar–ASFGrytubakki II • 601 Akureyri+354 463 3179polarhestar@polarhestar.iswww.polarhestar.isThe Pristine Quality of WinterActivity Tours with Sport Tours are Dynamic Whatever the SeasonIceland has amazingly diversepossibilities to enjoy in Spring,Summer, Autumn or Winter. Untilrecently, the fantastic winter season wasnot available for tourists as the Icelandersthemselves were not keen on theunforeseen adventures brought on by themagnificent northern winds, with theirsnow and ice. But, as winters in Icelandare often still and sunny, the beauty of theendlessly white landscape was undeniableand gradually the Icelanders learned toenjoy its vastness through a variety ofsports. Then, of course, they wanted thewhole world to enjoy them, too.Sport Tours is an Activity Travel Agencyin North Iceland but operating all over thecountry all year round, offering a varietyof tailor-made and activity-packed toursfor groups and individuals, both privateand scheduled tours. They have beenorganising package tours for many yearsand are true specialists on the excitementand action to be experienced in Iceland’sspectacular nature along with relaxationin geothermal water, the best culinarychoices and very good accommodation.From Ocean Bed to Northern LightsIceland is geologically young and, indeed,is still being sculpted – and that includesthe ocean-floors. Sport Tours offer anexceptional diving tour to the unique divingsites in Eyjafj örður where you can inspectthe staglamites, the geothermal chimneysrising from the interesting lava-moldedlandscape underneath the waves.The Super Jeep tours to all the naturalwonders of North Iceland like Dettifoss,Ásbyrgi, Lake Myvatn, Goðafoss, Askjaand many more, are truly mystical andinspiring. The other-worldly pristine daysgradually fade into the afternoon dusk,bringing on the Northern Lights andpossibly, the dancing elves.Further west at Tröllskagi, The TrollPeninsula, Sport Tours offer SnowmobileTours, Cat Skiing, Cat Boarding, Hikingand Horseriding in the mountains. CatSkiing and Cat Boarding just below theArctic Circle is quite unique. You canliterally ski from top of the world to sea-leveland as the mountains rise from the ocean.Luxury CottagesYou can go Deep Sea Fishing, WhaleWatching and Shore Fishing in Eyjafj örðuralong the way. While enjoying all thesevarious activities, the best place to stay is atthe cottages provided by Sport Tours at theYtri-Vík farm. It is a beautifully peacefulplace, located on the west side of Eyjafjörður,between Akureyri and Dalvik, close to theshoreline, with a glorious and unobstructedview across the fjord. The cottages are ofdifferent sizes and can accommodate between2 – 16 people. All the cottages have a fullyequipped kitchen and bathroom and a privategeothermal hot-tub on the verandah.–SSSport ToursMelbrún 2 • 621 Dalvík+354 461 2968sporttours@sporttours.iswww.sporttours.is246 247

Drakes Barrow‘s Goldeneye fighting for territoryA pair of Horned Grebes feeding youngA male Tufted Duck taking offBirdwatchingMývatn is a shallow and highly fertile lakewith powerful fresh water springs andextensive areas of geothermal heat. Invertebratesthrive in the lake and they provide the food forthe huge number of birds living in the area.Mývatn is one of the best knownbirdwatching sites in Iceland and is also aRamsar site. Fifteen species of ducks breedregularly at Mývatn and the River Laxá, andthere are few places in the world with sucha diversity of breeding wildfowl. Barrow’sGoldeneye is the area’s fl agship species andthe greatest density of breeding HarlequinDuck in the world is found in the upperGreat Northern Diver callingin paradiseBirding sites around Lake Mývatnreaches of the River Laxá; these species breednowhere else in Europe but Iceland. The sameis true of the Great Northern Diver, whichalso breeds at Mývatn. Other species whichbreed at Mývatn include Whooper Swan,Greylag Goose, Pink-footed Goose, RedthroatedDiver, Horned Grebe, Gyr Falcon,Merlin, Rock Ptarmigan, various waders,including large a population of Red-neckedPhalarope, Black-headed Gull, Arctic Tern,Short-eared Owl and Eurasian Wren. Almost120 species have been recorded at Mývatn.Take a Tour from ReykjahlíðLet’s take a tour clockwise around Mývatn,approximately 35 km by road, and visit a fewof the best birdwatching sites. Just below theold hotel at Reykjahlíð is a pretty stretch ofthe lakeshore with a number of small islets.Horned Grebes breed commonly here andvarious dabbling ducks can be seen here too—sometimes Northern Shovelers are present. It isa very pleasant place to go birdwatching.Just south of the village of Reykjahlíð, thereis a bay called Helgavogur. The bay is ice-freein the winter and often attracts large numbersof birds at that time of year. In winter the wateroften gives off a lot of steam owing to thepresence of geothermal heat and it sometimesmakes for an impressive sight. In winter it is oneof the main sites for dabbling ducks at Mývatn;in summer all species of dabbling duck whichbreed in Iceland can be found here, includingthe rarest, the Northern Shoveler. Other speciesbreed here, including several pairs of HornedGrebe, and waders and gulls can often be seenon spits of land jutting out into the bay.The Dry Rocks of DimmuborgirDimmuborgir is a special place. Apart fromthe lava formations and bizarre landscape,the bird life here differs from elsewherearound the lake. It is a very dry place andcliff-nesting birds such as the CommonRaven, Merlin and Gyr Falcon all breedhere. Redwing and Eurasian Wren areconspicuous in the scrubland.At Höfði, there are native birch woodlandswith patches of rowan, and numerousintroduced species have been planted. Thereare a variety of birds, with a range of passerines,including Eurasian Wren, Redwing, andCommon Redpoll. In the bay to the northof Höfði there are large numbers of ducksand Barrow’s Goldeneye breeds in the lavaformations; there is often a great commotionin the spring when the females are fightingover the best nesting sites and chase each otheraround and are then joined by the males.Around the Klasar Rock PillarsAlong the shore at Ytrivogar there is a pathleading to the Klasar rock pillars, whichmust feature on every second postcard ofMývatn. There are various birds along thispath, including Horned Grebe which breedsAn aggressive Long-tailed Duck drakeA male Harlequin Duck in currentin the reeds right by the path, and a range ofbreeding ducks. There are often a lot of birdsat Birtingatjörn, on the other (eastern) side ofthe road but unfortunately there is nowhere tostop the car to watch them.Lake Stakhólstjörn forms part of theprotected area around the pseudocraters atSkútustaðir. The islet in the lake is home tonesting Great Northern Divers. You canoften hear the haunting call of the divers onbeautiful spring and summer evenings.Kritartjörn is separated from the lakeby a long, narrow spit of land. To thesouth and west there are large expanses ofsedge, which are home to Horned Grebesand numerous dabbling ducks. There areoften lots of Whooper Swans here and atÁlftagerði, near Skútustaðir, the bay isoften teeming with birds.A Parade of HarlequinsThe River Laxá in the Mývatn area is one ofthe best known breeding sites for HarlequinDuck in the world. Food is plentiful andthe birds dive to the bottom of the river tocatch black fl y larvae. It is also one of thebest sites for brown trout fi shing in Iceland.A pair of Horned Grebe in courtship danceIn years when there is little food in the lakeitself but there are still plenty of black fl ies,lots of other birds come to the river. Barrow’sGoldeneye raise their young here and theriver hosts plenty of other ducks.On the western side of the lake fromVagnbrekka to Neslandavík there arenumerous good sites for birdwatching. Theroad closely follows the lakeshore. As thisis a protected breeding area from May toJuly, it is not recommended that you leaveyour car or walk around here—it is muchbetter to watch the birds from your car.There are often flocks of dabbling ducks,diving ducks, Great Northern Divers, geese,Horned Grebes, waders, gulls and ArcticTerns here. The western shore is the bestplace to fi nd Common Scoters at Mývatn.It is less common on the eastern shore butcan be found there too.The bird museum at bay Neslandavík isone of the best birdwatching sites at Mývatn.A flock of several dozen Whooper Swansmoult there and in late summer you can findhundreds, if not thousands, of ducks on thebay. Horned Grebe, geese, ducks and variousother birds breed around the bay. –JÓHImages by © jóhann Óli Hilmarsson252 253

North IcelandThe Magical MysteryLake Mývatn and the surrounding areas will never cease to amaze youThe breathtaking beauty of the LakeMývatn area is unique. It has beencreated by volcanic eruptions and seismicactivity throughout the ages – and sculptedby wind and rain, ice and snow. It is theultimate creation of Fire and Ice.It is beautiful during the light nightsof summer with the lake mirroring therays of the midnight sun sweeping aroundthe mountain tops, It is beautiful duringthe dark days of winter, with naturalsnow sculptures forming and constantlyreshaping, giving the landscape theillusion of dancer-like movements in theperpetual Northern Lights.© Jóhann Óli HilmarssonDancing lightsLake Mývatn and the surrounding areas arethe one place in Iceland protected by thehighlands from the harsh northern winds andwet southern winds thus retaining relativetranquility all year round and giving theblissful Northern Lights free reign. No matterwhere or how you move around the area,magical lights are always within reach. You canchase them on horseback, on skis, on skatesor snowmobiles, but you’ll never catch them.They will just change their form or colour,their playfulness filling you with delight.The real treat is to sit in the warmth of theMývatn Nature Baths with geothermal waterdrawn from depths of up to 2,500 metres,gazing at the Northern Lights’ movementacross the sky. Or, you can go on a highlandtour on snowmobiles towards Askja, to fi ndout where the lights and the land meet.Due to the extraordinary display of thenature, all the tourist services around LakeMývatn are open all year around. Hotelsand restaurants, swimming pools and naturebaths provide excellent service for tourists.And guess what! In Dimmuborgir byLake Mývatn, the Yule Lads can be found.The Yule LadsThirteen days prior to Christmas thethirteen Yule Lads start descending from themountains – one each night. The sons of theancient, vicious trolls, Grýla and Leppalúði,these kind lads decided to leave home andsettle in Dimmuborgir. There they foundtheir perfect home and during the monthof December they receive visitors every daybetween 13.00 and 15.00. Furthermore,during the fi rst December Saturday, all 13brothers come for their annual Christmasbath in the Mývatn Nature Bath. Be sureto join this raucous lot at the baths on thatexact day for a lot of fun and laughter.Horse riding on IceThis winter celebrates the 10 th anniversaryof the horse riding competition held on thefrozen Lake Mývatn on 23 rd February. Nowonder this part of the island is so popularwith tourists visiting Iceland.–SSMývatnsstofa© Þorgeir Gunnarsson © Jóhann Óli HilmarssonPrepare for Lunar LandingEurope’s largest area of unspoiled nature is Mývatn Tours’ playgroundTravelling in the uninhabited interiorof Iceland is unforgettable. In thesafe hands of Myvatn Tours, with 30 yearsexperience guiding visitors in this particulararea of this terrain, it is nonethelessan adventurous day, driving across thelargest open area of unspoiled nature inEurope with breathtaking landscapes,an environment of magnificently simplesplendour, dominated by sandy deserts,stark or moss-covered lava plains, everpresentmountains and volcanoes, incrediblecolours, roaring waterfalls, unbridged rivers,colourful sulphurous fields, delicate but richflora, young lava fields, and ice-cold glaciers.It was on this terrain that the US astronautspracticed for their lunar landing.Located north of Vatnajokull, about 100km south of Mývatn, there is little rainfall.Described as a ‘complex of nesting calderas’in the rain shadow of Vatnajokull glacier,the area is known as Ódáðahraun, or the‘desert of crimes’—an intriguing name forthe largest lava field in Iceland.Created by an immense volcanic eruptionthousands of years ago, followed by others,including one in 1875 and a smaller onein 1961, the main caldera measures 55 kmacross, giving you some idea of the volumeof material which has been ejected. In theaftermath of the explosions, a series ofcraters were formed, and one such crateris the opaque, milky blue Lake Öskjuvatn,the deepest freshwater lake in Iceland. Itwas this eruption in 1875 that caused muchhardship around Iceland and resulted inthe largest emigration of the Icelandicpopulation to Canada and United States insubsequent years.The tour takes 11-12 hours and it startsat 8 am at the Information Centre inReykjahlíð, Mývatn. From there you will bedriven through the wondrous Mývatnsöræfi.The mountain road is surprisinglycomfortable compared to many others. It’s arare privilege to stop and sip the clear waterof the spring-fed rivers that you have justforded in this remote Highland paradise!Mývatn Tours–EMVHraunvegur 8 • 660 Mývatn+354 464 4390info@visitmyvatn.iswww.visitmyvatn.isArnarnesi • 660 Mývatni+354 464 1920myvatntours@gmail.comwww.askjatours.is254 255

North Icelandwww.alkemia.is, in the Heart of The ElementsSlow TravelInvigorate Yourself in Another WorldAlkemia’s trips are an art of living—a deep experience of encountering nature.Alkemia is the first travel agency tospecialise in wellbeing holidays in theMývatn area and in organising workshops(Qi gong, yoga, meditations, massage, etc.)in the heart of the elements in Iceland.Alkemia at Lake MývatnA stay at Lake Mývatn is an immersionin a very powerful primeval naturalenvironment, where man has developed andmaintained traditions such as baking breadon the hot ground, fishing below the ice,etc. The Mývatn region offers an incrediblediversity within a limited area, so there is noneed for long trips by car.256Alkemia stays there in any season.Depending on the time of year and theprevalent conditions, you can trek withsnowshoes, cross-country skis or on footand, if the weather prevents you going out,you can take advantage of the opportunityto meet the local people and learn of theirage-old traditions. Without doubt, everyouting provides an opportunity to discoverthe rich and subtle features of the lake area:its legends, culture and culinary traditionssuch as peat-smoked trout or lamb, andmany others just waiting to be discovered.Alkemia’s Philosophy:Alkemia’s guides love to take time (« slowtravel ») to feel, encounter and explore hiddenplaces off the beaten track. The hikes dependboth on the weather and the inspiration ofyour guides. They may be gentle or energetic,mysterious or dazzling, but they will alwaysfinish in the evening with a wonderfulrelaxing bath in the milky blue silica-richwater of natural hot springs (between 37°and 42° C). To bathe like this in winter underthe starry sky, the body warm as toast, andthe head in the cool air, virtually alone inthe midst of an immense natural landscapeis an unforgettable experience, which hasbecome an essential for some. This is a formof thalassotherapy at the origins of time. Theimmensity of the landscape, the low densityof the population, the quality of the water, air,silence and light make Mývatn a perfect placeto recharge one’s batteries.Harpa and Jean-Marc, the founders,like to accompany people into thesacred dimension of nature, they havea sensibility and respect for the ‘unseenworld’—and a solid knowledge of thematerial one. Encountering nature is, forthem, fi rst and foremost the encounteringof your own nature. Join them on a trip toa surreal world!Alkemia Tours–ASFBirkihraun 1 • 660 Mývatn+354 847 4133contact@alkemia.iswww.alkemia.isHikingInitiatic journey in IcelandYoga, Qi Gong, Watsu,Shiatsu, Méditation…Well beingAt any season in Myvatn area.Languages: Français, English, Islenska, Deutsche, Espanolcontact@alkemia.is Phone: +35-445-1078 Mobile: +35-847-4133 www.alkemia.is

North IcelandWinterlandWondersWinter is cold—and often miserablein most countries of the NorthernHemisphere. In England, for example, thedamp and cold seep into your bones andbitter rains soak you to the skin.Now, Iceland is different. It is furthernorth, for sure—but in this case, that’san advantage. Surrounded by the GulfStream, the winters are not nearly assevere as most of Europe.Winter without PainWinter offers so much that’s enjoyable,inspiring and awesome. The cold isdry and crisp—especially around LakeMývatn in Northern Iceland. The snowdoesn’t turn to a wretched, wet slush thatsoaks your shoes and socks...and feet. It’scrisp and powdery. The air is clean. There’sno pollution here—just pristine beauty.Enjoy Mývatn’s total winter transformation at Hótel ReynihlíðIf you’re thinking of a holiday or takingyour company on an incentive trip, this isthe trip everyone will be talking about foryears to come with brightness in their eyes.It’s an experience difficult to effectivelyportray in words, but let’s give it a try.Lights in the SkyNights are not pitch black but arelit almost every night by a display ofNorthern Lights sweeping across the skyin an endless dance of swirling colour,beautifully offset by crisp white snow.Warm clothes are a must, of course, butyou don’t need to worry about the cold.You can even stand outside in a sweater toenjoy the night. This year, the NorthernLight cycle reaches its peak. There won’tbe such an opportunity to enjoy them somuch for over a decade to come.Ride on the Lake, Snow and MountainsThis area has so many features that peopletravel across the world to visit it. Winterjust adds a new dimension to the activitiesthat are possible. It’s the driest and stillestpart of Iceland. The lake freezes hard—so hard that you can enjoy the thrill ofhorse-riding on the ice. These beautifulanimals are known for their friendlinessand good disposition—along with theirenjoyment of giving you a smooth rideover practically any surface.Recently, go-karts have taken to the ice,too, in a thrilling drive on special tyres.Others like to try hiking across the lake ormountains on snowshoes or skis.This is a birdwatcher’s paradise,whatever the time of year, offering newways to enjoy the birdlife, with photoopportunities everywhere.Hot in a Frozen worldDuring spring and summer, nearby Dettifosswaterfall, the most powerful waterfall inEurope pours over 600 cubic metres of waterper second into the canyon below it. In winter,it is equally awesome—especially whensilenced into a frozen ice monolith. SuperJeepsand snowmobile tours, crossing this volcanicterrain are another thrilling day’s excursion toseveral such sites. You can also see the massivecracks in the rocks caused by the movement ofthe tectonic plates and stand on two continentsjust a short walk from the hotel.Not everything is cold, however. Volcanossurround Mývatn, leaving plenty of hotspotsand fascinating features. There’s no memoryto beat swimming in a natural geothermal,mineral-rich, hot pool in the middle of thesnow. Your body is so warm from the waterthat you don’t feel the cold.Catering for Body, Mind and SpiritBecause of the area’s pure conditions inwinter, it can do wonders for the body, mind,soul and spirit. Hótel Reynihlíð, for example,besides arranging all the activities above, alsoruns a Health and Wellness Programme thathas become very popular, adding a practicaland spiritual aspect to your holiday.It brings its 4-star rating to every aspectof its service. Just take a look at the reviewsin TripAdvisor.com and you get the picture.What about fun when you’re in the depthsof the countryside, if being surroundedby snow, steam, ice, geothermal hot pots,horses and SuperJeeps isn’t enough? Youhave to get to know the Yule Lads in nearbyDimmuborgir if you come before Christmas.Hótel Reynihlíð was the only hotel inMývatn, providing weary travellers in theirarduous trek between Akureyri and thevillages of the East with rest, refuge andsustenance in the last century. Today, itboasts a good restaurant with an extensivemenu and a nice bar to relax in after a day’sactivities. Its experienced staff are veryknowledgeable and will be happy to helpyou get the best from your visit—and yourvisit will be your best, too.Hótel Reynihlíð–ASFReynihlíð • 660 Mývatn+354 464 4170bookings@reynihlid.iswww.reynihlid.is258 259

HúsavíkThe Culture HouseHúsavík’s Fascinating View of Its HistoryThere are two permanent exhibitionsin The Culture House: ‘Man andNature – 100 years in Þingeyjarsýsla’, anew exhibition opened in 2010 and ‘TheMaritime Exhibition’.‘Man and Nature—100 Years inÞingeyjarsýsla’This aims to provide insight into man’srelationship with nature in this region inthe period 1850-1950, and the subsistencefarming that was practised at that time wheneach farmstead was largely self-sufficient.This interesting aspect of national cultureis explored by juxtaposing objects from natureand man-made artefacts. The presentationincludes a large number of interesting exhibits- some of natural origin, such as animals,plants and rocks, while others are home-madeobjects, for instance tools, needlework, worksof art and crafts, etc.The Maritime ExhibitionHere you will find displays of a large numberof boats, many of them built in Húsavík. Italso includes a wide variety of fi shing gear,equipment and tools which were used inthe fisheries, seal-hunting and shark-fishing.Films can be viewed, and the exhibition offersan interesting interactive history database,where information on such unusual mattersas the location of fishing grounds, farms withdriftwood rights, landing-places for boats,etc. is presented in map form.Research and Photography ExhibitsOn both the ground floor and top floorof the Culture House various temporaryexhibitions and events take place. Thissummer, there will be an exhibition onarchaeological research and findings inthe area, an exhibition on Iceland’s rolein the moon landing and a photographyexhibition with photos from the MývatnArea at the beginning of the 20 th century,taken by Bárður Sigurðsson.At the Cultural house you can also fi nd achildren’s room, museum shop and coffee. TheCulture House is open from the 1 st of June—31 st of August every day from 10-18. Adultadmission is 600 ISK with children under 16admitted free and includes all exhibits.Húsavík Whale MuseumDedicated exclusively to whale biology,behaviour, and interaction with people,this museum is housed in the town’srenovated slaughterhouse.–ASF261

North IcelandThe Biggest Bones You’ll Ever See!Whale bones hang from the Roof at Húsavík Whale MuseumIf you’d like to see whale bones and learnhow whales impacted Icelandic culturethroughout the ages, visit the popularHúsavík Whale Museum in the north ofIceland. “People visit the museum becauseit is the best way to learn about whales andtheir environment without actually divinginto the ocean,” says curator HermannBárðarson, a biologist with a keen interestin whales. “Last year, 21,000 people of allages visited the museum.”Whale SkeletonsThe crown jewel of the museum, so tospeak, is the 13 metre-long skeleton of asperm whale. There are 8 more skeletons ondisplay. “Only when one is close to one ofthese skeletons does one realise how largewhales actually are and how strikinglysimilar their anatomy is to humananatomy,” says Bárðarson. “Most peoplenever have the opportunity to come inclose contact with a whale—simply becausetheir ocean habitat is so different from ours.This is a real pity. It is our mission at themuseum to interpret everything aboutwhales to the general public. We are hereto spark curiosity, disseminate knowledgeand foster respect for these animals.”Museum for all Ages“Our museum is perhaps the most familyfriendlymuseum in the country,” saysBárðarson. “Its content comes from thedepths of the sea which is normally hiddenfrom humans. It comes from a place that isgenerally thought of as dangerous, lifeless,cold and dark—but nothing could befurther from the truth, of course. Childrenare especially receptive to the mysteriousnature of this hidden world. We like tobelieve that we’re successful in delivering apositive experience for children by bringingthis hidden world a little closer. Themuseum receives school groups from allparts of Iceland throughout the winter. Thevisits are an integral part of the children’seducation about the environment.”Fostering a Community SpiritThe Whale museum has become anintegral part of the local community. It isan attraction in its own right but it alsosupports the budding whale-watchingindustry in the Skjálfandaflói Bay. “Last year50,000 people visited Húsavík exclusivelyto go whale watching and visit the WhaleMuseum. The Whale Museum supportsthe overall visitor experience and fosters thecommunity spirit—everyone in Húsavík isproud of the museum. It also provides animportant employment opportunity forprofessionals, academics, unskilled peopleand volunteers in a disused slaughterhouse,”says Bárðarson. “Come and see the whaleskeletons and learn how whales haveimpacted Icelandic culture.”–SHVHvalasafniðA Stay by the ParkÁrból Guesthouse is a beautiful place to stay in HúsavíkOn a residential side street of Húsavík,overlooking a gentle stream on the westend of the town park is Árból Guesthouse,a tranquil guesthouse just off the town’smain street. Ten rooms prepared by ownerand manager, Auður, await travellers whowant to spend a few days whale watching ortaking day trips to Mývatn or the NationalPark which is only forty-fi ve minutes away.Auður often remains at the guesthouse to givevisitors tips or chat with them at breakfast, fora hands-on approach.The three story guesthouse featuresfour rooms per fl oor with a two bedroomattic recently added on as an expansion.Bedrooms have shared bathrooms with fivebathrooms in total for the ten rooms in thehotel. Styled simply, with cushioned wickerchairs and comfortable double beds, the airyrooms are illuminated by sun streamingthrough large windows on summer days.The two bedrooms in the attic are styleddifferently from the rest of the house, withwood stained dark honey and a skylightlighting up a shared living room lined withleather couches.After a big buffet breakfast included inthe price of the room, guests can take apeek outside at the well-kept garden andon warmer days, sit out on the backyardpatio and listen to the sound of the gentlytrickling stream. Guests who want to takea short walk can just follow the stream toenter Húsavík’s park. A bit further is a lakewith a lot of trout in it. It takes about anhour to walk around it. No fi shing permit isrequired at the lake so visitors can just graba fi shing pole and see if anything is biting.A Governor to be thankful forÁrból Guesthouse’s three fl oors were oncetrod by Húsavík’s governor, who lived thereuntil 1956, and the house acted as the cityhall for the district. Known for his kindnessand good nature, the former governor usedto phone farmers brewing spirits duringIcelandic prohibition days if he expectedan official visit from his superior. Partialityto locals and exceptions to the rules wereconsidered a norm in this small town’s life.Even though the governor is long gone, he isstill remembered in the stories and hearts ofthe townspeople and Árból remains knownfor its inner charms and outward grace.–KBÁrbólHafnarstétt 1 • 640 Húsavík+354 414 2800info@whalemuseum.iswww.whalemuseum.isÁsgarðsvegur 2 • 640 Húsavík+354 464 2220guest.hus@simnet.iswww.arbol.is262 263

North IcelandGentle Giants of the SeaWhale Watching in Skjálfandi BayWhales are mysterious creatures inmany ways and much of theirbehaviour has yet to be explained. Scientistsare still researching the migration patternsof many species and no one really knowswhere the whales around Iceland go duringthe winter. But after 150 years of experience,the family now running the Húsavík whalewatching company, Gentle Giants, knowsthem better than most people will ever do.Stefán Guðmundsson, Managing Directorof Gentle Giants, comes from a long line offishermen who originally went to sea inrowing boats and then later, motorboats. Hesays they discovered that individual whalesand whale species have unique characteristics.“We’ve seen that the older animals are usuallymuch calmer and seem to be more indifferentto visitors than the younger. But eachindividual has its own character and someare really curious about our boats, much likedolphins,” says Stefán.Asked why whales jump in the air, Stefánsays there are many theories. “It couldbe that they have an itch which they aretrying to relieve by crashing on the water’ssurface. Others say it could be related tocommunication or a power struggle betweenanimals. But in my experience, I think, inmany cases, they are just playing around andshowing their might and majesty to thosewho want to see,” says Stefán.“Humpback whales are the most commonspecies on Gentle Giants’ tours and often,also the most enjoyable. Sometimes whenhumpbacks swim close to our boats, we turnoff the engines and watch them while theyfrolic in the ocean,” says Stefán.Up Close and Personal with GiantsThe largest animals on earth are the bluewhales and they are fairly frequent visitorsto Skjálfandi Bay, where Gentle Giantsoperate. “They don’t seem to mind us and wecan often get fairly close to them. It is trulya lifetime experience to witness the biggestanimals on earth,” says Stefán. Just to giveyou an idea of their size; a blue whale’s heartis around the size of a small car and a fullgrown animal can weigh up to 190 tons.Other species commonly seen in SkjálfandiBay are minke whales, white-beakeddolphins and harbour porpoises, whileorcas, fi n whales and northern bottlenosewhales are less common.Puffins also play an important role in GentleGiants’ excursions. Around 250,000 puffi nsnest around the bay during the breedingseason and passengers can get the chance toencounter these “Clowns of the Ocean”.Gentle Giants offer guided tours departingseveral times a day during the season. Witha 98% success rate of spotting whales, thecompany’s aim is to raise general awarenessand interest in whales and their habitat.Gentle Giants–SSTúngötu 6 • 640 Húsavík+354 464 1500info@gentlegiants.iswww.gentlegiants.is264

IngimarsstaðirÞórshöfnAs Far As You Can GoLanganesbyggð Remote Beauty in N.E. IcelandLanganesbyggð municipality wasformed in April 2006. Langanes itselfforms part of it, while virtually all of theinhabitants live in Þórshöfn on the northwesterncoast, which has a small airport.Bakkafjörður has about seventy inhabitants,whose life revolves largely around the fishingindustry and related services.Langanes, a peninsula in northeastIceland, literally means ‘long peak’. It is40 kilometres (25 miles) long, boundedby Þistilfj örður fj ord to the northwest andBakkaflói to the southeast. The terraininland reaches elevations of 200–400metres (600–1200 feet). The highest pointis Gunnólfsvíkurfjall mountain in thesoutheast of the peninsula.The Langanes peninsula is popularwith bird-watchers and holds the thirdlargest gannet nesting place in the worldat Stórikarl rock. In the springtime (May–June), guillemots and kittiwakes lay theireggs on the cliffs at Langanes and egggathererscan be seen at work there.LegendsLegend has it that, at the beginning oftime, Thor’s (Þór) hammer was throwninto the middle of Langanes, creating theharbour (höfn)—thus Þórshöfn. Þórshöfnvillage and harbour is located at theinnermost part of Þistil fj örður fj ord, bya little creek. It offers a magnifi cent viewof Þisti lfj örður fj ord. The harbour sheltersfrom the north and northeast winds, thecruelest winds for small boats.Þórshöfn villageÞórshöfn qualified as a trading port in1846. Around 1880, the fi rst houses werebuilt, initially as storage units for themerchants as, until that time, merchandisehad been traded between the ships.The Langanes Co-op (KaupfélagLangnes inga) was founded in 1911. Fromthat point, the village grew quickly,expanding until the second half of lastcentury. Today, Þórshöfn operates aproductive fishmeal factory, a freezingplant and a factory for processing oceanquahog or hard clams.Þórshöfn has a few charming guesthousesand the beautiful Eyrin restaurant,located close to the harbour, an excellentgym, indoor pool and hot tubs, perfect forrelaxing after a long day.Bakkafjörður fjord, bay and villageBakkafjörður applies to both the bay and thevillage on its eastern side. It received its tradinglicense in 1885 and the livelihood is based onfishing, fish processing, commerce and servicesrendered to the agricultural community.The old pier and crane are still standing asa reminder of old times when the crane wasused to hoist fi shing boats in and out of thewater when they went fishing.Today, people fi sh cod with a pole fromthe old harbour and local fishermen takevisitors sightseeing in their small boats ingood weather. For the more adventurous,Bakkafjörður fjord is considered a verygood location for kajak sailing. Camping atBakkafj örður is popular, with an excellentcamp site in summer.The swimming pool at Selárdalur valleyhas an astonishing mountain view. In thesalmon fi shing season, swimmers can watchthe anglers, as river Selá is just below the pool.Langanesbyggð is one of Iceland’s hiddengems, where the beauty and soul of the smallfishing villages lives on.–SPLanganesbyggðFjarðarvegur 3 • 680 Þórshöfn+354 468 1220sveitarstjori@langanesbyggd.iswww.langanesbyggd.is267

North IcelandParticipate in the daily life of Icelandic sheep farmers.Ytra Lón offers you some of Iceland‘s best bird watching locations.At the End of the WorldJust birds, the view and sheep at Ytra Lón on remote LanganesFor many, Iceland’s biggest appeal is it’sremoteness and tranquillity and Icelanddoesn’t get more remote and tranquil thanLanganes peninsula.Here, you’ll find Ytra Lón, a farm hostel runby a friendly Dutch-Icelandic family, fromwhere you can explore Langanes’ abundanceof beautiful and splendid landscapes.Situated on the north-eastern cornerof Iceland, the peninsula is virtually voidof inhabitants, except for a large birdpopulation. It is therefore the ideal place fornature lovers who want to experience naturefar away from the bustle of city life. In fact,no other hotel in Iceland is situated furtherfrom Reykjavik than Ytra Lón.Birdwatchers and nature lovers are inluck, as just 25 km from Ytra Lón you’ll findthe best conditions in Europe to view theNorthern Gannet and many other speciesas well, even the rare Brünnich’s Guillemot.Visiting the furthest peak of Langanes,named Fontur, is an experience in itself and,if not for the diligent work of cartographers,you’d be forgiven thinking that it’s the world’send. Except for a single lighthouse and yourcompanions, you’ll be totally free from allsigns of civilization. Among other activities inthe area are bird-watching and egg collecting,horseback riding, hiking tours and angling,to name a few. The staff at the hostel is veryfriendly and can arrange transportation orguided hikes out to the peninsula.The stay at the hostel is also an experiencein itself, as the proprietors run a sheep farmhere. You can observe the day-to-day life ofIcelandic sheep herders and, if you’re lucky, youcan witness and partake in the ‘sauðburður’season, which is when the sheep start givingbirth. Sauðburður usually starts in May.Ytra Lón offers a wide variety ofaccommodation—including sleeping bag,made-up beds and has recently opened anew wing with fully equipped apartments,which are ideal for families and groups.Ytra Lón have also set up a new venturenamed ‘Art Hostel – Ytra Lón’ where artists andart students from all over the world convene andwork together, using Langanes as an inspiration.Ytra Lón, of course, provides the accommodationand a working space for the artists.You can now follow Ytra Lón on Facebook atwww.facebook.com/YtraLonHostelYtra Lón–NNHLanganes • 681 Þórshöfn+354 846 6448ytralon@simnet.iswww.hostel.is/ytralon268

North IcelandAskja caldera and the Víti explosion craterVíti (Hell) was formed in an eruption in 1875.The Highlands in North East IcelandAn enchanting wilderness awaits those willing to take the challengeDuring the past few decades, highlandexcursions have become increasinglypopular. Walking enthusiasts quaff the freshmountain air, while others prefer drivesalong unmade trails in jeeps and otherrough terrain vehicles. A third group likesto combine highland jeep tours with hiking.The highland scenery in Þingeyjarsýsladistrict is stark and diverse and offers visitorscountless options.Near and Far HighlandsThe highlands may in fact be separated intotwo categories: the near highlands and thefar highlands. The former term refers to thehighland areas closest to populated districts.In this category, we fi nd a large number ofmountains that offer interesting trekkingchallenges. For example, the highland terrainwest of Skjálfandi bay, jeep excursions toFlateyjardalur valley and walking tours fromthere into the Fjörður area, hiking terrainin Kinnarfj öll mountains, the Þeistareykir270area, the mountains in the Mývatn area andthe highland tract in the eastern part ofLanganes point.All these areas offer diverse landscapesand panoramic views of the surroundingscenery, an invigorating experience thatinspires the traveller with a ‘joie de vivre’.The far highlands signify the high land terrainnorth of Vatna jökull glacier. Some would callthis ‘the real Icelandic highlands’ containing aHerðubreið mountain Herðubreið has been called the queen of Icelandic mountains.large num ber of locations to en thral those wholove the wild erness and its ad ventures.The Highlands, in their stark beautyThese barren expanses offer countless routesof adventure. Some of these possibilities aredescribed in more detail below.Gæsavötn are two shallow lakes to theeast of Tungnafellsjökull glacier. There issome vegetative cover around the lakes. Theruins of a stone and turf hut were found herein 1932; perhaps a testimony to outlaws oran ancient shelter for mountain travellers.In olden times, a common route betweennorth and south Iceland lay across the rockySummer evening by Lúdentsborgir Lúdentsborgir are part of a crater row in the Mývatn area.desert of Sprengisandur where Kiðagil wasa popular place of rest, a kind of mountainoasis. The memory of this resting place hasbeen rendered immortal by the followinglines from a well-known Icelandic ballad bypoet Grímur Thomsen:If Kiðagil I could descendI’d give my best steed to that end.Dyngjufjöll mountains are located tothe north of the Dyngjujökull glacier,which extends north from Vatnajökull. Thisis a barren mountain cluster encircling the50 km 2 Askja caldera. Subsidence in Askja’sKverkfjöl area – The opposing forces of fi re and ice are very evident in the Kverkfjöll area.south-east corner has formed a smallercaldera now filled by Öskjuvatn, one ofIceland’s deepest lakes, with a maximumdepth of 220 metres. The Víti crater next toÖskjuvatn was formed in a huge explosivevolcanic eruption in 1875. The warm waterin the crater is suitable for bathing and ispopular with visitors.Queen of the MountainsÓdáðahraun is Iceland’s most extensivelava field, a practically continuous desertfrom the Vatnajökull glacier northwards tothe mountains in the Mývatn region. Themost renowned of those is Herðubreið, atable mountain 1682 metres in height,long referred to as ‘the Queen of Icelandicmountains’ and recently elected Iceland’sNational Mountain by popular vote.Approximately 5 km north of themountain are Herðubreiðarlindir springs,a green oasis in stark contrast to the bleaksurrounding desert. Conspicuous among thelush Herðubreiðarlindir flora are clusters ofgarden angelica, several willow varieties andcolourful aggregations of arctic river beauty.Herðubreið and its surrounding areas weredeclared a nature reserve in 1974.Kverkfjöll mountains are a hugemountain range at the northern extremityof Vatnajökull glacier. The region ischaracterised by alternations of ice sheets andclusters of natural hot springs, with the mostprominent, Hveradalur, being the amongthe greatest high temperature geothermalareas in Iceland. In summer, regular toursare operated to the Kverkfjöll region fromAkureyri, Húsavík and the Mývatn District.www.icelandictimes.com 271