May/June 2010 - O Scale Trains Magazine Online

Inexpensive acrylic paints are available in dozens of colorsfrom craft stores like Michael’s. For a weathered appearance,apply the paint somewhere between the classic drybrushingtechnique used for weathering (where the paint is virtuallywiped off the brush before applying) and a fully coveredpainted wall. Basically, you want ”a bad-looking paint job”which of course, allows a lot of flexibility in terms of howyou want it to look. Using a 1/2” soft flat brush, apply thepaint but don’t cover every board perfectly. Let some of thegray primer show giving a weathered appearance (Photo 3). If3a drop of Elmer’s White Glue or Canopy Glue on each cornerof the acetate/window shade. After drying, you’ll be ready forfinal assembly.Step 8 – Assembling the Walls & RoofGlue the front and back to the sides, using a square tomake sure the walls dry straight. I like Aleene’s Tacky Glue forthis step. It dries clear, has a very quick tack, but takes awhileto fully set so you can make adjustments well before it cures.This step is easy since you have the corner bracing on thewalls for more gluing surface area. Add 1/8” x 1/32” paintedstripwood to create a corner molding. These can be the samecolor as the walls or for variation, a complimentary color.Make a roof template from craft paper, and then cut someblack cardstock for the roof. To make a tarpaper roof (Photo4), spray black craft paper with black paint to dull out the finish.Very lightly spray on some gray or white and finally, some4you don’t like what you see, either sand back the paint withfine sandpaper or apply more paint where it’s not coveringenough.Step 7 – Windows & DoorsPaint your windows and doors. I prime them with inexpensivespray paint then spray paint the final color. By foldingsome masking tape at the edges and attaching it to scrapcardboard, you can adhere all the windows and doors to thetape and paint them all at once. It will take about 15 minutesincluding the time to let the primer dry to the touch. You cando this painting by hand, but it will take longer to do. Unlessyou’re using a primer color, the spray cans won’t give you atotally flat finish. The flattest finish you can get is Satin, but afinal coat of Testor’s Dullcote will do the job. For some weatheringof the windows, add a very light spray of black or a lightwash of India Ink/alcohol (2 tps. or less to 1 pint alcohol).When the final coat is dry, glue in the windows and doors.Since they have thin frames, you may not want to use CA glueunless you use a small micro brush for application, which isa bit frustrating and time consuming, or you like your fingersglued together. I use G-S Hypo Cement (Micro-Mark or anumber of eBay sellers) that has a thin needle applicator. Theonly trick is getting the darn cap back on to the needle to sealthe tube. If you have trouble threading a needle, you maywant to find another solution like Canopy Glue (availablefrom many sources).Once your windows are in, glue acetate on the back forthe window glass. You can use the Hypo or Canopy Glue. Youdon’t have to cut these to exact size, just make sure you’recovering the window opening. Use colored craft paper forwindow shades, gluing them over the acetate on the backside.Again, any size will work (hint: make them differentheights which adds to the realism). If you want to ensureeverything stays in place after the building is assembled, add28 • O Scale Trains - May/June ’10tan. Use a sweeping motion for these colors, keeping thespray can about 10” from the paper and in motion, passingback and forth beyond the edges of the paper. The paper canbe taped on the back so it will stick to a larger piece of cardboardfor easy handling. Cut strips about 1/2” wide and userubber cement to attach them to the roof. Cut a few piecesinto smaller sections so it’s not all uniform. Also, add a coupleof very small patches to suggest repairs on the roof andoutline them with thin lines of white glue to simulate tar. Fora final touch, weather with shades of gray, black and even tanchalk dust. This will further weather the roof’s appearance.One section of the building has a corrugated metal roof.This material is great for older sections and roof overhangs.The material is available from Sodders Enterprises, Buildersin-Scaleand others. To weather the metal, prime it first thenpaint it grimy black, and then add weathering powders. Dr.Ben’s is a good source for weathering powders and liquids,including liquid rust).Step 9 – A Foundation (Optional)If you want a foundation, add some 1/8” or 1/4” woodstrips around the base of the building, slightly indented fromthe wall’s edges. These should be painted a concrete color(PolyScale Concrete or Aged Concrete).Step 10 – Final DetailsFor a final touch, include some ads (Photo 5) and roofdetails. For the ads, sand the backside and apply Elmer’sWhite Glue then press in place. After a few minutes, run yourfingernail along the ad, sinking the paper into the grooves