Fourofthebest1Four play<strong>Zagreb</strong> quartet Sabina Sabolovi©,Nata∫a Ili©, Ana Devi© and IvetCurlina, known as WHW, have beeninvited <strong>to</strong> curate the prestigiousIstanbul Biennial for 2009. The all-girlCroatian collective, based at the littleknownGalerija Nova, were selectedthanks <strong>to</strong> a series of groundbreakingevents staged since 2000.WHW (locally known as ’Vay-Ha-Vay’) refers <strong>to</strong> the ’What, How andFor Whom’ demanded of everyeconomic organization that is <strong>to</strong> saywhat is produced, for whom, and howit is distributed. The team has turnedthese questions in<strong>to</strong> principles thatserve as a checklist for every projectthey curate. They emerged with ashow coinciding with the 152ndanniversary of the CommunistsManifes<strong>to</strong>. Influenced by celebratedSlovenian philosopher Slavoj ◊i∆ek,the exhibition drew attention <strong>to</strong> asearch for alternatives <strong>to</strong> a ruthlesseconomic system, and questioned thedefinition of a post-communist EastEuropean identity. In a similar vein,subsequent exhibitions expanded onWHWs exploration of social issuesand politically sensitive <strong>to</strong>pics.Collective Creativity, staged inGermany in 2005, displayed the workof international artist collectives,including Gilbert and George andthe Slovenian neo-avant-garde groupIrwin. Back home, WHW transformedthe quiet down<strong>to</strong>wn Nova Galerija,strategically positioned between theno<strong>to</strong>rious independent Radio 101 andthe avant-garde theatre ZKM, in<strong>to</strong> avenue <strong>to</strong> be reckoned with. Clearingout the cellars, doubling theexhibition space and creating ascreening room, the four-membercollective also sought <strong>to</strong> connectvarious alternative cultural centresthroughout Croatia through anexchange initiative entitled Clubture.The domestic programme consistsof a multi-layered mix of exhibitions,lectures and screenings, all keenlydocumented in the Galerija Novanewspaper. The team have alsoproduced several catalogues andedited books by well-known culturaltheorists, printed in a distinctivered-and-black layout designed byclose associate Dejan Kr∫i©. Recentappearances in the gallery haveincluded Janes Jan∫a, a Slovenianartist who famously changed hisname <strong>to</strong> that of his country’s servingPrime Minister, Dubrovnik artcelebrity Slaven Tolj, sociallyengaged <strong>Zagreb</strong> artist AndrejaKulun±i©, and neglected modernistsculp<strong>to</strong>r, Vojin Baki©.Maja and Reuben Fowkes2Fore!Croatia’s first 18-hole championshipstandardgolf course opens outside<strong>Zagreb</strong> this May. Some 15 minutesfrom the city, the Golf & CountryClub <strong>Zagreb</strong> (Jadranska Avenija 6,01 653 11 77, www.gcc<strong>zagreb</strong>.hr) willbe the best in the region, with a largedriving range of 40 grass bays and12 covered bays for floodlit practiceat night. There are chipping andputting greens, another nine-holepar-30 course and a clubhouse se<strong>to</strong>ut in traditional style.This traditional style is nocoincidence. Between the wars, thecity’s international set played golf inthe Maksimir Park, and had stronglinks with the Esplanade Hotel, home<strong>to</strong> the first Golf Club <strong>Zagreb</strong> andvenue for the annual Golfers’ Ball.Harking back <strong>to</strong> this period, theGCCZ has bought the old receptiondesk at the Esplanade and set it upas a bar in the clubhouse.For beginners there will beEnglish-language tuition and theoption of hiring a set of clubs,whatever your handicap.The testing main course, 6,400metres long with 11 lakes, is due<strong>to</strong> open on <strong>Zagreb</strong> City Day, 31 May.A second restaurant will be added<strong>to</strong> the clubhouse plus, of course,a members’ bar.To reach the club from <strong>Zagreb</strong> bycar, cross the Sava from Savska viathe Jadranski Bridge, turn right atthe roundabout <strong>to</strong>wards Karlovac,then right again at the second set oftraffic lights. You’ll find the mainentrance just a kilometre ahead.Matt Field3Street partyThe 12th running of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s mostendearing and unusual festival takesplace this June. Cest is d’Best, thename derived from an associationof street entertainers, Cestagram,is a week-long celebration of outdoorperformance in prominent locationsin and around the city’s main square.The inspiration behind the eventsare Pajo and Had∆i from the bandKraljevi ulice (‘Street Kings’), localstreet musicians whose popularityrose after an appearance at anational song contest featuringold-fashioned melodies from the1930s. The pair can also be seenregularly on a local TV music showand hanging around busking withtheir instruments on Trg bana JosipaJela±i©a and Trg Petra Preradovi©a,the main and flower market squares.For the June event a stage will alsobe set up outside the age-old Charliebar on Gajeva, with impromptu eventson pedestrianised Bogovi©eva nearby.Highlights for 20<strong>08</strong> include livesculpture by Germany’s Bartel Mayer,Gaby Corbo’s one-woman circus fromArgentina and Leopardman’s physicalcomedy from Australia. See also p7.But Cest is d’Best is not only aboutperformance alone. Among the manychildren’s activities are a hugeclimbing wall on Jela±i©; there is a slowcycling competition, a baby marathonand a race between local dustmen. Youcan even learn Croatian sign languageunderwater. For more <strong>info</strong>rmation,refer <strong>to</strong> www.kraljeviulice.com.Aleksandar Draga∫4Island festivalNick Cave & the Bad Seeds headlineat this year’s Vip INmusic festival,Croatia’s biggest, held on an island in<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s Lake Jarun. The Brigh<strong>to</strong>nbasedsinger whose new album, ‘DIG,LAZARUS, DIG!!!’ is released inMarch, follows Franz Ferdinand, IggyPop and Morrissey, who have allappeared at this high-profile event.Shows run over two days, on Tuesday3 and Wednesday 4 June. With thislatest album, Cave plays with originalBad Seed Mick Harvey, plus drummerThomas Wydler, bass player MartynP Casey, pianist Conway Savage,Warren Ellis, Jim Sclavunos andJames Johns<strong>to</strong>n. The new tunes aremoody and atmospheric, not unlikeCave’s recent musical settings for filmsoundtracks. Although the rest of thisyear’s line-up is yet <strong>to</strong> confirmed, fourstages will be set up – Vip, Nokia,Tuborg Green and the late-nightRadio 101 – and camping will beavailable. More details and onlinesales: www.vipinmusicfestival.com.Peterjon Cresswell4 TIME OUT <strong>Zagreb</strong>TIME OUT <strong>Zagreb</strong> 5