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SUMMER 2009

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<strong>SUMMER</strong> <strong>2009</strong>


Perfect PairCOURSE ONE Kohada witholives and citrus, paired withJokigen "Happiness" JunmalGingo-shu sake, from JokigenShuzo,Japan.Reddick chose to pair slices ofkohada, a type of shad relatedto the common mackerel. with aclean-tasting sake, or rice wine,so as not to overwhelm the fish'smouth-filling intensity, knownas umami, the elusive fifth componentof taste. Reddick referredto the course as an "amuse."SENSORY OVERLOADA food-and-wine pairing at Restaurant Charlie is an extraordinary exploration of taste. By Max Jacobsonn short order, Restaurant Charlie at The Palazzo has establisheditself as one of the best restaurants in this country, winning a covetedMichelin star in only its first year. It's also a favorite withlocal chefs and cognoscenti, who come for toque Charlie Trotter'scomplex, cerebral aesthetic.The restaurant's sommelier and general manager, ConradReddick, recently guided me though aperfect afternoon meal ofalmost symphonic complexity, carefully chOOSing wines to complementdishes, and explaining his choices along the way.Reddick, 31, came dressed for the occasion, in a tie matching his lightpurple shirt and bl.ack suit, colors offset by the sea-green granite counter ofBar Charlie's sushi bar, where many guests begin their Restaurant Charliedining experience.Bar Charlie's sushi master, Hiro Nagahara, prepared many of the courses,while others came via the main kitchen from chefs Michael Rotondo and VanLuu. But no matter whom the creator, food at this restaurant is visually stunning,each dish a color-splashed palette. Every component of a Trotter dish hasa purpose, and is not used casually. The menu, which has a seafood focus, startslight and slowly graduates to more robust flavors-the same way, inCidentally,the restaurant hopes you'll select your courses when dining there.76 STYLE


Dining GuideThe extensive wine list has beencarefully selected, with more than400 French and American wines tochoose from.Located inside The Palazzolobby, 702-607-6333.NOODLE ASIAA symbol oflong life in Asianculture, noodles are the maincomponent of Kevin Wu's pan-Asianmenu. Hong Kong-style wontonnoodle soup is filling and comforting,and wok-tossed noodles come in allshapes and sizes, with toppings suchas black pepper beef and black beanand chili paste. Roasted duck andbarbecued pork are perfect atop abed of steamed rice.Located next to the Race andSports Book at The Venetian,702-414-1444.PINOT BRASSERIEChef Joachim Splichal's penchantfor authenticity has led to PinotBrasserie's decidedly Europeandecor. Compiled during a tripthrough Europe, there's the floorfrom a French chateau, a 150-year-old ceiling from Provence,the fa


ICOURS E T W O Peekytoecrab salad with sake and ricemilk, paired with a SauvlgnonRepublic 2007 Sauvlgnon Blancfrom Stellenbosch, South Africa.The wine was chosen to expressterroir, or the wine's regional origins,because the sommelier felt thata citrus component present in thedish would help bring out thesweetness of the peekytoe crab.The combination was refreshing,a real palate wake-up.COURSE FOUR Tasmanianocean trout with miso andfennel, paired with a 2007 Carlvon Schubert Riesling, theMaximin Grunhauser Abtsberg.from the Mosel, in Germany.Reddick chose an acidic wine to cutthe salt and fat of this luxuriant fish.The Riesling was an austere winethat used stainless steel, not oak, inthe fermentation process.3.COURSE FIVE Tempuracuttlefish with Meyer lemonand kanzuri carrots, pairedwith Charles de Cazanove BrutRose Champagne from theChampagne region of France.It wouldn't be exaggerating to callthis the most intellectual pairing ofthe group. Salinity and mineralitycomplemented the surprising heatfrom the carrots; the addition ofthe Meyer lemon offered ripe citrusnotes; and the sweetness of thedosage in the Champagne broughtit all together beautifully.COURSE SIX Bobwhitequail with black winter trufflesand hazelnut, paired with a2004 Enzo Bogllettl Barberad'Alba from Piedmont, italy.COURSE T HREE Spanish bluefin tuna with umeboshl and seawater,paired with a cocktail called Cat'sMeow, composed of HerraduraBlanco tequila, Spanish Cava(sparking wine), and grapefruit lulce,rimmed in black sea salt.Superb tuna, which indeed would makethe most stOic cat purr in ecstasy, is hereenhanced by the presence of umeboshi,a salty apricot often mistakenly called aplum. The pairing played with the bitterand the sweet.The only meat course needed awine that would stand up to it,one with heady aromas and volatileacidity. The tannin and acid inthe Enzo Boglietti Barbera d'Albamade it a gorgeous companionfor roasted quail.Restaurant Charlie is located atThe Palazzo, 702·607·6336.STYLE 77

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