A GUiDE TO THE PEDEsTRiAN AND CYCLiNG ROUTEs

NATUREPARKGuide Wegeführer Vodič GuidaA GUIDE TO THEPEDESTRIAN ANDCYCLING ROUTESin Lonjsko polje NatUre ParkPARKPRIRODE NATURPARK NATUREPARK PARCODELLANATURA

W a t e r – t h e r u l e r o f L o n j s k o P o l j eLonjsko Polje Nature Park is the greatest protected wetland area not only in Croatiabut in the whole of the Danube drainage area. The northern borders of the Parkstretch along the Zagreb-Lipovac Brod motorway, i.e., the northern dyke of theretention area, while the southern border of the park is composed of the Sava itself.The basic characteristics of this protected area with a total area of 50,650 ha arethe floods, most common in spring and autumn, brought about by the increasedinputs of the left tributaries of the Sava – the Lonja, the Pakra, Veliki Strug andMali Strug and the Una. Powerful waves of water from the Alps and the DinaridMountains raise the water level of Sava by up to ten metres. The hydrological andgeomorphological conditions cause great habitat diversity and thus at the sametime very great biodiversity. For this reason it is possible to find here almost allthe European plants of damp and wetland habitats (over 550 species). There arealso rare species growing here, such as the water clover, which is part of the trademark of the Nature Park. The animal world of Lonsjko Polje is alsoextremely diverse. A great number of birds nest in Lonjsko Polje, particularly wetland birds. White storks, spoonbills, a variety of egrets, sea eagles andlesser spotted eagles, as well as many migratory birds use the great pasture areas to look for food. In fact, two areas within the Park – Krapje Đol andRakita – have been proclaimed special ornithological reserves.

Č i g o ć – t h e E u r o p e a n S t o r k V i l l a g eThe village of Čigoć is first to be found in the written documents at the end of the 15th century. Today it is the bestknown village in Lonjsko Polje Nature Park, located alongside a meander that the Sava left behind long ago, findinga shorter route, and leaving the oxbow called Tišina where it used to be. A map of Croatia of 1673 shows that theonetime Čigoć, Tsigots as it was then spelled, was located on the home farm in Lonjsko Polje, a kilometre from whereit is now. For decades, the mighty river brought down sand and silt in its course, thus creating high and dry depositsalong the banks, the ridges as they are called. On these higher places, people built lines of wooden houses, fromthe tough, lasting common oak found in thenearby forests. Because of the great numberof nests of white storks (Ciconia ciconia), in1994 Čigoć was proclaimed the first EuropeanStork Village by the nature conservation foundationEuronatur. It is no accident that there aresuch a large number of storks in Čigoć. Theabout 5000 hectares of wetland and pasturesin the immediate vicinity of the village as wellas the traditional manner of farming give thestorks a great amount of high quality food(frogs, snakes, shrews, insects, fish, mice andso on). Particularly notable for the number ofnests was 1996, when 56 active nests wererecorded in Čigoć.

Walking through the forest you will probably notice frogs and toads.Each toad species has its own defense against its many predators.Common toads (Bufo bufo) have skin glands that produce a badtaste so the predator spits them out. A fire-bellied toad (Bombinabombina) turns onto its back and show its red belly - danger!As a river meanders across its wide valley, it digs new channels, closes off old channels andturns these into curved lakes. These lakes are called “oxbows” because they are similar inshape to the curved wood placed around an ox’s neck when it pulled a wagon. The oxbowlake created by the Sava River near Cigoc is called “Tisina” (“Quiet”) by local villagers. Itsname suggests a peaceful and calm place, but its waters bristle with life. You may observewetland birds, storks, snakes and other animals that feed on the fish and insects in Tisina. Ifyou look carefully you may notice a Grass Snake (Natrix natrix) or a Dice Snake (Natrix tessellata)– both non-poisonous. When danger lurks, these snakes pretend to be dead. One willflip over onto its back, turn its head to the side, stick out its tongue, and eject a stinky fluid.

T H E T R A I L O F A N C I E N T O F P O S A V I N A P E O P L ERoadDykeCreekSoil-pit LakesCultivated LandNon-Cultivated LandPastureForestPig houseČigoć VillageTourist Information CenterLonjsko Polje NPInterpretive Trails StartTrail of Posavina PeopleOptional Meadows Trail11

T H E T R A I L O F A N C I E N T O F P O S A V I N A P E O P L E − A R A B L E F I E L D SWalk along this trail to become acquainted with some of the characteristics of agriculture in the Lonjsko polje Nature Park. You willdiscover that this ancient rural landscape has a positive influence on the biodiversity of this legally protected area. At a leisurelypace, this trail will take between one and a half to two hours to complete.During the period from November to May, the pastures may be flooded. Although you wouldn’t be able to walk through the pasturesat these times, you can enjoy the sight of the great lake from the dike.Small arable fields, backed by hedgerows, stretch along the whole length of this roadway. Hedgerows on the fields are live boundaries– ribbons of life that are home to songbirds, weasels and insects. Abundant harvests are possible only if arable fields are placedbeyond the reach of floodwaters, so you find them here, protected by the dike that you will soon visit. These fields produce goldengrains of corn, wheat, barley and oats - all representative of the fertility of the Posavina region.12

T H E T R A I L O F A N C I E N T O F P O S AV I N A P E O P L E – D I K E A N D “ S O I L - P I T L A K E S ”Standing on the dyke, you have reached the highest spot inthe surrounding area. During the 70’s, a system of dikes wasbuilt, transforming the Posavina floodplains into an enclosedarea that can accumulate huge amounts of water. When riverlevels are high, the Sava River disgorges its overflow back intoits tributaries, which themselves overflow into the pastures ofLonjsko polje. Because the floodwaters have a place to safelyaccumulate, cities upriver (Zagreb, Karlovac, and Sisak) areprotected from flooding.Along the side of the dike are pits from which soil has been dug and used for dikebuilding. Though human-made, these pits have taken on the role of natural lakes inthe landscape. Lushly overgrown with marshy vegetation, they provide nesting andfeeding places for many water birds and fish. In the dry period, these lakes also providedrinking water and bathing places for livestock and other animals.13

T H E T R A I L O F A N C I E N T O F P O S A V I N A P E O P L E – P A S T U R EYou are now walking through one of the last spacious European pastures where traditional livestock management practicesare still in use. Regular floods define how people and animals use these pastures. At the time of spring floods, when thepastures are covered with water, fish spawning takes place here. Did you know that Lonjsko polje is the largest natural Carpspawning area in the Danube watershed? In dry periods, the pastures are used for grazing by horses, cattle and pigs. Asthe livestock moves over the area, they prevent the pastures from becoming overgrown.This traditional way of livestockmanagement plays an important role in the ecosystem of Lonjsko polje because this management ensures the preservationof important habitats for wildlife. The height of summer, especially the end of July, is the best time to observe the colorfuland diverse mosaic of plants and animals of the meadows. This diversity is a result of traditional management, where nofertilizers or commercial grass seeds are used. Conditions are therefore right for native plant varieties. Only on meadowssuch as these can you find purple wetland kacun (Orchis sp.) – Croatian orchids. The care of the meadows also plays a rolein supporting native species. When the meadows dry outat the end of June, that’s the signal for mowing to commence,and it can continue for the next three months. Thislate mowing schedule allows ground-nesting bird to raisetheir young well hidden in tall meadow grass.14

T h e B o r d e r e r s ’ R o u t e15

T h e B o r d e r e r s ’ R o u t e – t h e o n e - t i m e M i l i t a r y F r o n t i e rOf central importance to the Borderers’ Route project is the historical circumstance that in these areas, for over three centuries, the so-called Military Frontier or Vojna Krajina existed, aroundwhich there was for years fierce fighting. The Borderers’ Route is a recreational and educational trail that gives a special feeling of almost unspoiled nature. To cover the whole of the trail willtake your two to three hours of pleasant walking. The beginning of the route is in the village of Krapje, which was proclaimed Village of the Architectural Heritage in 1995, and is an A categoryheritage site. This trail moves off from Krapje towards Orlinci Pastures, where there is the main herd, today critically endangered, of Slavonian-Podolia cattle, the Podolac, at open pasture. Thesecattle derive ultimately from Podolia in today’s Ukraine. At the beginning of the twentieth century, the Podolac, as it is called, was the most important and most common breed of cattle in Baranya,Sirmia and Slavonia. The Slavonian-Sirmian Podolac is a very resistant and hardy breed. The horns, the most salient feature of the breed, are extremely long, often placed diagonally with tipssticking out at the side. By setting up this herd, the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park PublicService is endeavouring to retain this threatened original breed of cattle that can beconsidered an important genetic resource, as well as to highlight its ecological andeconomic value. These cattle are very lively, but in contact with people can be timidand untrusting, and sometimes nervy. For this reason - have a care! Do not comeclose to the herd within the fencing.16

B o r d e r e r s ’ R o u t e – O r n i t h o l o g i c a l R e s e r v eThe trail goes on towards the Krapje Đol Ornithological Reserve. Achieving this status in 1963, Krapje Đolwas the first ever ornithological reserve in Croatia and occupied 25 hectares. It is of international importance,for it is the biggest nesting place of spoonbills in Europe, but it also has a lot extra to offer bird lovers, in theway of waterfowl spotting: the little egret, the pygmy cormorant, the night heron, the grey heron, the purpleheron and so on.Once upon a time the border between the Austro-Hungarian and the Ottoman empires stretched along thisborder, which consisted of a cordon of fortresses with watchtowers and houses on pylons called chardaks inwhich the borderers spent most of their life. For this reason along this trail, replicas of the wooden historicalsentry boxes on stilts (the chardaks) have been built to recall the stormy past of the Military Frontier and thelife of the borderers, and for present day use as observation posts. Each one of these striking structures isfurnished with bilingual information boards. The chardaks are both look out points and rest places for pedestrians.Finally, along this route you will arrive at Drenov Bok, a typical little village of the Central Sava Valley, in which the biologicalstation of the Nature Park is located, while on a nearby rural holding you have the opportunity to take a trip on the touristreaction ferry along the Sava.17

CYCLING ROUTES IN LONJSKOPOLJE NATURE PARKA cumulative 310 km18

CYCLING ROUTES IN LONJSKO POLJE NATURE PARK(a cumulative 310 km)THE SUNJA ROUTEThe 50 km long Sunja Route is reached from the Posavina Route, where from the village of Kratečko with an extremely pleasant ride that makes use of a traditional ferry over the river you get tothe right bank of the Sava. Through the village of S. Selišće, one comes to the municipal centre of Sunja. Then the route goes through the villages of Staza, Šaš, Živaja and with a gentle ascentarrives at the historically important Hrvatska Dubica, which is today the border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina. Here cyclists will meet the beautiful Una River, alongside which, in a pleasantride, you can pedal on the left bank through the villages of Tanac and Uštica to where it flows into the Sava, by Jasenovac. At the end of this route, there is an extremely attractive view of theconfluence of the two rivers from the newly built bridge over the Sava in Jasenovac.THE UNA ROUTE (an alternative)The Una Route, which is 61 km long, and moves in the same direction as the Sunja Route, splits off however at Sunja and goes through the villages of G. Hrastovac and Stubalj towards HrvatskaKostajnica. This city on the left bank of the Una River has very rich history, and is today a border crossing. It got its name from the sweet chestnut trees (called kostanj) that grow abundantly inthe local forests. We recommend taking a short break in the protected Djed Forest Park, where there is an entrancing view from the restaurant/observation spot over the valley of the Una. Afterlooking around the medieval fortress of Zrin Castle, the route continues along the left bank of the Una through Slabinja, Baćin and Hrvatska Dubica, the route ending at the mouth of this uniqueriver, and crossing over the newly built bridge in Jasenovac.THE MOSLAVINA ROUTEThe Moslavina Route is 34 km long, and starts off from the European Stork Village, Čigoć, towards Gušce, and then breaks off to the right towards Svinjićki, a village famed for its traditional styleof fishing. Then over an unmetalled road the route goes on to Strušće and Osekovo. You can hardly fail to be impressed by the attractive view from Osekovo over Lonjsko Polje, and it is alsopossible to visit nearby Ciglenica – an archaeological site with remains from the Roman period. The route heads off towards Ravnik and ends up in the municipal seat, Popovača, where one canenjoy the amenities of the nearby numerous wine roads, and try the local speciality, Moslavina’s Škrlet. Apart from that, it you like, it is possible to switch into the network of cycle and hikingtrails over the Moslavina Hills.21

L O N J A B I K E T O U RThe Nature Park Public Service regularly organises cycling rallies. The best known of these is held inthe middle of May. A special excursion train is laid on for cyclists running from Zagreb to Jasenovac viaSisak, Sunja and Hrvatska Dubica. On this cycling route, 45 km in all from Jasenovac to Sunja, there area number of attractive features, such as passing through Krapje, village of the architectural heritage,entering Lonjsko Polje at Mužilovčica and crossing the Sava by a traditional reaction ferry at the villageof Kratečko. Along the whole of the way, a cheerful atmosphere is provided at the rest stops by tamburitza ensembles, andriders can try out the products of the original local cuisine.The recreational cycle rally marking European Stork Village Čigoć Day has been held traditionally now every last Saturday inJune. For this occasion, a special excursion train called the Čigoć Express is put on from Zagreb to Sisak. This cycle route,from Sisak to Čigoć, is 26 km long, and an interest-packed whole-day long programme is organised in the European StorkVillage, featuring education, culture, recreationand entertainment. For those takingpart in the bike rally in Čigoć the Nature Parkorganises a special raffle with very valuableprizes.Other important recreational bicycle ralliesin this area worth noting also include the rallymarking Planet Earth Day (April 22), andthis is regularly very successfully organisedby Kutina Tourist Office.22

The theme trail “In the embrace of Lonjsko Polje and the Grape-Growing Hills”Long ago the inhabitants of villages in this part of the Sava Valleylived a very different way of life. It is little known that the peopletraditionally produced very fine wines in their vineyards on the grapegrowingslopes of the Moslavina Hills. In spring as soon as the watersreceded into their course after the flooding, they would crossLonjsko Polje in their boats, cultivate their vineyards, and then returnto their Sava Valley villages.The thematic trail “In the embrace of Lonjsko Polje and the GrapevineHills” linking the Sava River and the northern part of Lonjsko Poljewith the natural surroundings, the grape-growing hillocks of Moslavina,has been devised in order to provide a memento of this onetimeway of life. And so we invite you to set out along this thematic routethat emphasises the difference between the past and the present,for most of the routes that once led over the Polje no longer exist,and the bridges that went over the Lonja River have not withstoodthe ravages of time. Accordingly, this thematic route links the twoareas in a different manner – telling romantic tales from the past,it leads you from the Baroque altar of the Church of St Michael theArchangel in Velika Ludina, via the vineyard huts of the feudal Erdödyfamily in Voloder, the wood Chapel of SS. Fabian and Sebastian inDonja Gračenica, the Church of St Mary of the Snow in Kutina, all theway to the village of the architectural heritage and the replica of theborderers’ chardak in Krapje.23

B U T T H I S I S N O T T H E E N DNow that the Four Nature Parks – A Single Route cyclingproject has been established, when you come toLonjsko Polje Nature Park you will have the opportunityto get to know the exceptional natural and culturalvalues of Medvednica Nature Park, Papuk Nature Parkand Kopački Rit Nature Park as well. This route has atotal length of 454 kilometres, and links four conservationareas, providing a wide choice, from mountainouslandscape to the floodplains of the Sava valley and theDanube valley.24

A b o u t u s . . .The Lonjsko Polje Nature Park Public Establishment started working in 1998. The admin of the Park and the information centre arelocated in Krapje, and there is an information/education centre in Čigoć and a biological station in Drenov Bok. The activities of theEstablishment are directed primarily to the protection, preservation and promotion of the basic natural and cultural values of the NaturePark. Professional and scientific research is carried out in the Park, and numbers of educational and expert workshops, conferencesand other gatherings are held.tručne radionice, skupovi i drugo.A t t e t i o n !Lonjsko Polje is wetland; for this reason, you should dress sensibly (hiking clothing and boots). If you tend to be victim of mosquitoes,then wear shirts with long sleeves and long trousers. But in Lonjsko Polje it can also be dry and hot, and you should certainly bringenough fluids as well as headgear.TRAIL PLANNING AND PREPARATION• While walking on these trails, you will be most at ease wearing comfortable shoesand sportswear.• During the wet period, rubber boots are the best footwear for flooded and muddyareas.• Depending on the season, insects can be numerous, insect repellent, long sleevesand trousers are recommended.• There is little shade on the “Trail of Ancient Posavina People,” so don't forget sunscreen,a sunhat and sunglasses.• Drinking water is not available along the trails, so bring enough liquids with you.25

C O D E O F C O N D U C T I N L O N J S K O P O L J E N A T U R E P A R K• Birds and other wild animals are part of our environment. Disturbing and catchinganimals and destroying their habitats disturb the natural harmony of the nature park.• Destroying the plant world deranges the cycle in which it is home and food to manyanimal species.• We respect the privacy of the people whose homes are in Lonsjko Polje.• You can visit the protected ornithological reserves only with previous notice to thePark’s Administration,• We take our impressions and the traces of our having been here with us. Rubbish isput in the special places provided.26Please do not hesitate to contact us for further information on the tourist offer, availablefacilities etc:Javna ustanova Park prirode Lonjsko poljeKrapje 30, 44 325 KrapjeTel. +385 44 611-190, -191Fax +385 44 606-449e-mail: info@pp-lonjsko-polje.hrwww.pp-lonjsko-polje.hrUred u Čigoću / Čigoć OfficeTel i fax +385 44 715-115

VAŽNI TELEFONSKI BROJEVI / IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS:92 Policija / Police93 Vatrogasci / Firebrigade94 Hitna pomoć / Ambulance112 Pozivi za žurnu pomoć / Emergency Number987 Pomoć na cesti (HAK) / Roadside AssistanceIMPRESSUMIZDAVAČ: Javna ustanova «Park prirode Lonjsko polje»; ZA IZDAVAČA: Goran Gugić; IZRADA I OBLIKOVANJE: ITG d.o.o. Zagreb; AUTOR: Edvard Bogović, Valerija Hima IZVOR FOTOGRAFIJA: ArhivJU «Park prirode Lonjsko polje», Željko Gašparović; LEKTOR: Ivan Jindra; PRIJEVOD: Graham McMaster; TISAK: ITG d.o.o. Zagreb; NAKLADA: 500 kom; GODINA IZDAVANJA: 2008.Kopiranje i umnožavanje zabranjeno / Reproducing of this map is not allowedTisak Vodiča omogućio je PROJECT LIFE 05 TCY/CRO/000111 / The printig of this map has been supported by PROJECT LIFE 05 TCY/CRO/000111CIP zapis dostupan u računalnom katalogu Nacionalne isveučilišne knjižnice u Zagrebu pod brojem 690446ISBN 978-953-7667-00-927