mustang book.indd - Lewis deSoto

mustang book.indd - Lewis deSoto

mustang book.indd - Lewis deSoto

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1994 - 2004 Mustang Styling BookLewis deSoto

1994 - 2004 Mustang Styling BookLewis deSoto©2007published by sotolux pressnapa, californianew york, new yorkwww.desotodesign.net

Dear ReaderThis book is designed with three things in mind: togive you a styling philosophy that you can pass ontoany customizing project, to show you how to put eachof the elements I have used on this 2002 MustangGT Convertible on your Mustang and to give you theresources, part numbers and parts sources youneed to complete the styling project.I am available for advice and comment at an hourlyrate. For more information, please contact me atdesotodesign@gmail.comLewis deSotoINDEXStyling Analysis.................................page 1Portfolio............................................page 10Assembly.........................................page 17Parts & Sources..........................page 59Links...................................................page 62

The Ford Mustangmay be most secretly famous for its incomplete nature. It has lent itselfto redesign and personalization since it first showed up as a 1964 ½model.The New Edge designs took lead from the change from clay modelingdesign to 3D computer modeling. Specifically, the ability to create intersectingmasses that had their own separate geometry; planes couldmeet at new angles forming a dramatic edge line. The Mustang was themost popular iteration of this design.I choose the 1999-2004 model because it is such an exceptional buy ontoday’s market: many still have factory warranties and the power is upon the previous generation.It is basedon the SN-95 platform,derived fromthe Fox-body Mustangthat appearedoriginally in 1984.My purpose is notto create a “personalized”car, but actually a factory car or a complete car from theviewpoint of the designers. Whether this is what the stylists originallyintended, I do not know, but I try to put myself in their place.The 1999-2004 Mustangs areoften called the “New-Edge” Mustangs,based on the direction ofJack Telnak, Vice President ofCorporate Design at Ford MotorCompany. Telnak retired in 2007after a career in the industry fornearly forty years. In the early1999 Mercury Cougar1980’s Telnak championed the“aero” look which was embodiedin the 1983 Ford Thunderbird. In 1999, Telnak’s new design thrust wasrevealed in what was called “New Edge.” The Ford Mustang lead theNew Edge design front with more radical iterations demonstrated in theMercury Cougar and in Europe, the Ford Ka.1The hiring of J Mays at Ford in 1997, the energy behind the New Beetleat VW one sees a propensity for his retro-futurist leanings. Models likethe Bullitt Mustang and Mach 1 see his influence. The reproduction“Torque-Thrust” style wheels are certainly a J Mays touch. In fact, theydon’t really look at home on the New Edge Mustangs; they look more appropriateon the 2005-present Mustangs which have a decidedly retrolook to them and under which Mr. Mays had the most direction.Laid over the “New Edge” themesare J Mays retro touches.Though the marketers would playup the retro themes of this model,the New Edge Mustangs didlittle to represent the original exceptin its decidedly “fake” parts:hood scoops, side scoops andthe reproduction Torque-Thrustwheels. Maybe more glaring wasthe reproduction of the pony symbol all over the car. On the exterior of2002 Mustang convertible there are at least six ponies visible. Somemodels have even more. It is as if the Mustang became a division ofFord. The Ford symbol is seen only once on the car. Compare this toearlier models where the Ford Oval appears in the grill area, wheelshubs and tail end.I like the design of the 2005 Mustang, but to my eye, the New EdgeMustangs are more complex in their surfacing and visual structure.Just look at the hood with its concave and convex surfaces intersectingat strong character lines and flowing powerfully toward the windshieldfrom the NACA duct-like opening of the grill. Because of this complexity,it makes it harder for them to look perfectly balanced. The 2005, out

of simplicity looks balanced out thebox, but also more bland. This iswhy duo-color paint schemes lookmore at home on the 2005 retroMustang.But let’s look at the New EdgeMustang and dial in its basic problems.Most of these don’t have todo with the design per se, but withthe fight between its New Edge/Retro themes and the realities of gettinga car to market. One of the basic realities is that the Mustang lookscheap. That’s because it was a good value, but left the customer tocomplete the car, particularly in its interior.is described in the industry, it certainly needs some help in this area. TheV-6 Mustangs particularly suffer from the roller-skate look.Because of the body to wheel relationship, the character line leadingfrom the fender to the side scoop is not parallel to the ground, it is higherup at the front and de-emphasizes the strong triangular shape that iscreated by the lines from the back fender to the top of the front fender;certainly the designers saw this as the most desirable feature of thisside detail, but the stance ruins it. Because the front is higher, it setsthe rake of the windshield further back, making it look too flat, almost asif the car had been pushed by a weight from the top, crushing the windshield.If one takes a photo of the car and simply drop the front forward,the rake of the windshield looks more graceful.Successful areas include the fender openings that look built out (comparethese to the aero1994-98 Mustangs, which look like holes cut intoa fuselage). The hood with its slope upwards toward the middle of concaveand convex planes is very powerful and suggests bursting powercoming from the power plant. Also successful is the tuck under of thecar between the wheels; a plastic rocker panel comes down and createsa taut line between the wheels.Looking at the stance of the V8 GT, one immediately notices that the carsits too high over the wheels. In fact, it seems to be rearing backward,even though the hood slopes forward. It makes the car look like the windis pushing it back. The space between the wheel well and the tire is referredto as the “dead-cat hole.” This car feels like it is “on its toes.” Oneof the first propensities is to slam the car to the ground, but this createsdrivability problems. We will look at ways to get the stance right. Theother relation to the stance is the way the wheels come to the outsideedge of the body. The car has wheels that are inboard of the outsideedges of the fender well, though not terribly buried or “over-bodied” as it2The front overhang is too pronounced, much like a front-wheel drive car.On the Ford FR500 race car, we see that the stylists move the wheelsforward five inches and cut the headlight penetration by three inches(this also gets betterweight balance betweenthe front andrear wheels). In thiscase, the headlightstry to hide the hugeoverhang and theirshape creates an impliedscoop like thegrill(s). Because of the retro pony and its corral pushing forward outof the grill, it makes the front end look even longer. Because the frontbumper lifts up at the front, to narrow the face of the car, it shows the

underside of the bumper to the public at certain angles and looks unfinished.I have a convertible, which has no B pillar to chunk up the top that hasa pouncing quality to it, with the arc cutting back and arching forward.The convertible is more of a simple arc and with the windows down allowsthe body to look much longer than the coupe. I should note thatthe hardtop design is based on a removable hardtop that was designedfor the convertible and was available from Ford at the beginning of itsmodel run.At the rear end of the car are a set of large tall taillights that are unrelentingin their redness; export cars and certain Cobras had yellowturn signal lights. Converting to these is not impossible, but there areother ways to make the rear endlook wider than it does. The rearspoiler also looks pushed too farforward on the deck; this is truefor the early 1999 and 2000models as well. Only the Cobraspoiler actually is rear-ward of theedge of the decklid. We shall lookat this detail as a way of correctingthe chunk of the rear end andincreasing its visual velocity. What is successful on the V8 Mustangs isthe rear bumper exhaust cut outs, the look of a rear racing diffuser withsmall vents between the exhaust cut outs. Also from the rear one cansee the flair of the fenders over the wheels which gives it a more muscularlook than the previous generation car.My approach is to finish the car from the stand point of a Ford designer.Let us think back to how the designers intended the car to look and takeout the compromises that ensue when one is trying to meet manufacturingcost goals. In this way we make a car that looks complete andexpresses all the strengths that the design displays in analysis.Let’s begin!3WheelsOne can take the animal metaphor too far. After all the car is named aftera kind of horse (or is it named after the kingdom in Nepal?). Wheelsare not exactly the feet or shoesof a car, but they are the motivecontact point. Besides being jewelryin some sense wheels arealso windows into the suspensionof the car. Have you noticed, mostflat planar wheel designs hide theordinary and barely adequate suspensionthat holds it to the car?So this rumination about theCTR WHEELS + Cobra 10th Anniversarybrakeschoice of wheels also implies thesubsequent decisions regardingbrakes and suspension.The philosophical direction of the design is to create a Ford factory look,so that it does not stand out as a blatant exercise in outrageous purchasesat the speed shop. No excessivelychromed wheels or 22”rims with jewels spinning about.The wheels that exercise Forddesign characteristics are prettydull, but strongly elegant. Cobrafive spokes or FR500 wheelsmade for the fantastic FR500 prototypesare natural choices. The“torque-thrust” styled wheels reminiscentof the 1960’s that startedFR500 WHEELSappearing in the 2001 modelsseem really more appropriate forthe retro designs of the 2005 Mustang. What other models do we haveto look at? The Ford GT. Based on the Ford GT-40 race car, the Ford GTwhile being obviously retro, borrows from the original design and builds

from that. The wheels are reminiscentof Halibrand racing wheelswith knock-off spinners. A smallcompany, CT-R based in Texas ismaking Ford GT styled wheels inthree flavors: chrome, anthracite(dark metallic grey) and black.They are made especially for theoffsets of 99-04 Mustangs with18” x 9” front wheels and 18” x10” rear wheels. The angle of thespokes echoes the angle of thewheel flares and then dramaticallypoints inward, saying, “hey, look atthese brakes!”Wheels can describe the personalityof the machine more thanmost other styling elements andare critically important. I havefound very few stock automobileswith “appropriate” wheels. One ofthe worst offenders is Audi; elegantbodies, taut lines and clunky,inappropriate wheels for the most part. My Audi A6 has had three setsof different wheels; most of the problem has to do with wheel offset, theamount of stuff to squish into the wheel area, brakes, four wheel driveaxles, suspension pickup points allows for a very shallow “dish” whichhelps describe and point to the mechanical inner works of the car. Carswith a plane described by the outside edge of the wheel tend to make thecar look like a shell with nothing inside of it but air. Rear wheel drive carshave very little problem with this, the BMW 5 series had wonderful deepdish wheels on its sport models.4Fortunately, the Mustang is rear-wheel drive and we can indulge in adeep dish, especially for the rear wheels. The offset of the CT-R wheels isjust perfect, placing the edge of the tire carefully under the wheel flaresand thus avoids the roller skate effect.Stock ride height of the 1999-2004 Mustang looks ridiculous. The circumstancesof designing cars that look just perfect in the designers’ studioand then are pumped up to theheight of 4x4 trucks when they getto the show room probably haveto do with bumper height safetyand insurance costs. At the sametime, lowering kits, especially thosewith live rear axles is problematic:drop them so the car looks totallycool and then the rear end bangsover every bump and grinds yourspine into the seat bottom. Also,the travel for the coil springs isdecreased which means that thecoil can bang on itself. I’ve tried tomitigate this (somewhat successfully)by using Ford Racing Springsthat do not drop the car into theweeds. Even with those installed,the rear springs still crashed ontotheir own coils and I had to wrap acouple of coils with rubber tubingto get rid of the noise. The nextstep is to add an adjustable lowerrear suspension arm (this is madefor drag racing); so that the rideheight can be changed by raisingor lowering the lower spring supports.The adjustable arms allow for a further 1” drop from stock. TheMustang now looks like it does in Ford advertisements, low to the groundand ready to pounce.

Since the wheels are windows to the suspension, a look at the brakesare in order. The 18” wheels create the illusion of smaller brakes, soan upgrade to the brakes is important. The 10th Anniversary Cobrabrakes with red calipers front and rear as wheel as an increase in discsize make for an excellent factory solution to this issue. While the frontswere simple to change and attached to all the factory pick up points,the rear brake upgrade consisted of many more parts included backingplates for the disks and new caliper mounting brackets. This involvedpulling the axles as well. Kevin D’Adamo at B&G Tires in Napa, Californiaperformed the wheel, spring and brake upgrade including a necessaryfront end alignment.It is not my intent in this section that you mount your own tires or swapout your springs, rather I want to show you some of the known issueswith upgrading the brakes and springs for this Mustang.Front FaciaGrillThe front intake on an automobile is part of the face of its personality.Just as we see animals appear out of clumps of clothes on the floor atnight, we perceive that there is an animal soul inside the steel skin ofour cars. Sometimes these faces are comical or sad, but we are drawnmost to the implication of power. This is because one cannot deny thatan automobile in itself is an expression of power, enormous power foran individual to wield. Hidden underneath the metal are exploding gases,toxic heat, and dangerous electrical charges.The 99-04 Mustangs seem to be designed by two groups of peopleschooled in two different designphilosophies. The “new edge” designersled by Jack Telnak at Fordwere drawn sharp, taut lines andlinked bezier planes, concave andconvex. Yet there seems to beanother design philosophy at oddswith it. Coming to Ford in 1997,J Mays who is identified with “retrofuturism”who may have seen itnecessary to connect more directly to the lineage of the Mustang, backwhen it sold millions of cars in the sixties. Pony images, the famed “corral”around the pony on the grill, the honeycomb grill pattern and otherstyling nods are applied to the naked taut forms.5It wasn’t till the 2004 Mach 1 that stylists got to delete this grill and propose,what I believe was its original vision. Earlier versions of the Cobraeschewed the busy full mouthed grill as well.The grill, as it functions as an intake implies power when one can staticallysuggest the suction of atmosphere into the engine. The grill invokesthe engine, hidden under the hood and behind the bumper, grill

and headlights. The original “new edge” Mustang grill bulges out fromthe intake surface holding three different design elements: black plastichoneycomb, a chrome rectangular frame around a chrome gallopingpony. It seems as though all the pressure is inside the engine compartment.It looks like a face gagging or holding in something unpleasant.and see the bottom of thebumper as well. It does notlook finished until this narrowblack edge of bumpy-surfaceplastic finishes off the face.Correcting this problem is easy. There is a “Mach 1 grill delete kit” availablein two flavors, a two piece and a three piece kit. Buy the threepiece because the inner piece, a black plastic cowl that fits against thebumper support has curvededges and a nice bumpy surfacethat looks like it flows airbetter.HeadlightsThe second issue is the ponyand what to do with it. Standingin front of the car, one cansee five pony symbols (are wethat daft that we don’t knowwhat kind of car we own?): one in the grill, two on the windshield andone on each seat. The old fox body mustangs from 1984-1993 had aFord oval in the grill: this is also emphasized in the 1999 FR500 FordRacing prototype, many of these track cars used the Ford Oval insteadof the pony. Perhaps this looks more like a racing symbol. Former commercialsfor Ford products emphasized the air flowing around this blueoval, so I will perform some experiments about returning the oval to thegrill in future editions.There is a secondary grill under the main bumper line. If you have a darkcar, the wide slot looks appropriate, but with a light colored car, one cansee the bottom of the radiator support. Painting this area black wouldmitigate this problem.Not until 2003 do we see a spoiler on the front of “new edge” Mustangs,part of the Mach 1 package. The lack of spoiler is an evident design exclusion;one can only look at the front end and see all the rake upwards6Headlights are the eyes of the soul of a machine, said some poet in the20th century. And they do impart awareness. Cow-eyed Toyotas andother grass eating branded cars imply a kind of dumb innocence, but aMustang? A determined look is demanded. The headlights are almostsuccessful, in particular withthe black plastic interior bits(99-00 had chrome interiors).They have a mild confusinggeometry, the plastichas deep cuts and sweeps toit that reflects light at confusingangles. As the light wrapsfrom the fender to the hood,it swoops under the hood inan aerodynamic arc, as if it is designed to pass air above and throughthe slot. This is unique. Not many designs use the hood seam as anaero-design element. But because the headlight shape is not exactlyeye-like, there is a lack of awareness in the front end of the car. Thereare aftermarket headlight units that do have more circular openings forthe lamps; some even have the signature BMW “angel eye” look, with anilluminated ring around the lamp, but many of these replacements looktoo busy and over-articulated. For now I will stick with the stock units.Polishing the headlights emphasizes the two character lines molded into

the clear plastic. I have changed the bulbs to higher temperature sothat they burn brighter with less yellow coloration.If you have a GT model, then youalso have additional driving lamps.These lamps have a series of verticalribs molded into the lens tospread the light. They do not havethe complex reflective qualities ofthe headlights. I replaced thesewith a lamp sold by American Musclecarwhich has a clear lens andmore of a faceted interior. Whenfacing the car, both headlights and foglights appear to be designed bythe same philosophy.Trunk and taillight areaProbably the most attractive spoilers for the trunk appeared on the1999-2000 Mustangs. These consisted of an aerodynamic loop whichattached to the outer edges of the trunk. The 2001-2004 models useda design that is more like a bench, with the supports inboard of the outeredge of the trunk. Both designsare oddly forward on the trunk sothat from the side, the edge of thespoiler does not push pass thetop edge of the trunk. By removingthe spoiler on my 2002 model,one can see that there is room toredrill the holes 8/10’s of an inchfurther backward without revealingthe original holes and thus allowingthe spoiler to create a visual effect of a backward sweep thatfurther implies speed. The above picture shows the stock location of thespoiler in the foreground, my adaptation behind.which on most Mustangs is slightly distorted as to look oval, this arealooks particularly cheap. UPR productsmakes a ring which attacheswith trim adhesive to the area. Ido not like most UPR products becausethey look too shiny and toomachined (not molded). This trimring is the same. To mitigate thislook, I used a 3M Scotch-brite padto knock down it’s shiny quality. Onvery dark cars, I would go so far topaint it silver or body color.As I mentioned before, the big red chunky taillights of the 1999-2000Mustangs can be relieved by use of the import taillight which has a yellowturn signal light installed in the lower third of the light. But these taillightsrequire a lot of rewiring to work properly. The other way to get ridof the sense of the vertical chunk of the lights is to visually connect themtogether. California Concepts makes a Ford-designed part that links thearea between the taillights with ahoneycombed black panel of plasticwhich attaches with automotivetrim tape. This ties the taillights togetherin a single panel and allowsthe visual verticality of the taillightsto be minimized.The other way to create more ofhorizontality is to use all three bulbswhen they are lit. Further, like early Shelby Mustangs, to add sequentialtaillight sequencers so that they blink, 1, 2, 3. Webeclectronics builds afactory looking harness which you can order and install by replacing theoriginal harness. One need to adjust any other electronic control, it isall self contained. Additionally, when one steps on the brakes, the lampsblink 1, 2, 3 in unison outward, thus enhancing safety.A small thing, the key hole in the trunk. Surrounded by a piece of rubber,7While removing the interior trunk panels to get to the taillights, I re-

moved all the panels. This was to allow the installation of sound deadeningmaterial to enhance the soundof the stereo and kill vibrationscreated by the extra wide tiresand exhaust.With the trunk open, it doesn’ttake much to notice that the interiorlid of the trunk is unfinished.I created a pattern (enclosed)which covers the area where thereinforcement panels of this plastictrunk. Further, I placed a Roush tool kit in the trunk area, which ismade specifically for the 99-04 trunk lid. A relocation of the trunk lightis in order because the tool kit blocks the light.InteriorThe interior of an automobile connotes many things. It is a cocoon. It isan operation center. It is an ergonomic nightmare or a sensual delight.It is the stage of a music hall or abucket of bolts. It is the part of thecar that you touch with your handsand it gives us a sense of what thecar is doing literally by the seat ofyour pants.The aero/biomorphic look of Telnak’searlier design is maintainedin the New Edge Mustang. Interestingly,it works because it creates a contrast between inside and outside.The interior design connotes the interior of the body, with lots ofcurves and arches, while the interior looks hard and bulging, more likea robot. While many have considered the interior to have some retrofeatures, particularly the dual-cowl look, comparing it to the earlier Mustangs,this design harkens back more to the 1960’s Corvette and thento the 1969 Mustang interiors with the two large arches defining the8space in front of the driver and passenger.Most Mustangs of the 99-04 era are monochrome in color, thoughthere were some two tone interiors offered with light grey/charcoal orlight tan/brown. My adjustments to the interior can work with monochromeor two-tone interiors.One must first think about the tactile clues of an interior to guess whichareas have been most left to the accountants to decide what was goingto maintain the profit point on each car. We can in contrast look atthe height of interior design and materials, the Audi to see what can bedone in comparison. The Audi creates a masterful environment wheredifferent materials harmonize: plastic, wood, polished aluminum, anodizedaluminum, leather and vinyl. If you look at the material choices in theMustang you see: leather and plastic. By simply adding a few materials,one can greatly upgrade the interior, but still maintain a Ford factorylook. By studying Ford concept cars of the era, you can see that the stylistsare aching to use many differentmaterials within their interiors,but that budgets in the real worldare holding them back.Switch gear is upgraded wherepossible. MGW Ltd., a company inGeorgia makes Mustang switchgearthat looks most like factoryswitchgear. While chromed switchgear is available, I have chosensilver anodized. Chrome will lookbetter in lighter colored interiors,such as light grey or tan. I replacedthe AC controls, the parking brakepull, the headlight pull switch, theradio knob, the transmission shiftknob, the turn signal trim and theadded trim around the cup holderholes with MGW Ltd. materials. I

have mentioned earlier the UPRproducts are not very attractiveand do not look factory.The silver instrument bezel surroundis a Ford factory product Ihave modified with the “281” Fordblock symbol between to the majorgauges. These are availablefor sale at www.desotodesign.net.Tactile clues also include sounds. Creaky plastic? Groaning door panels?Rattling interior surfaces? These must be attended to. All panelsI removed where liberally applied with sticky felt tape and large panelsused eDead brand sound deadener. I also created patterns for applyingthe felt tape to the interior of the glove box and inside door pockets (seepatterns in supplemental folder on this disk).Pedals are upgraded to the Bullit Ford pedal set. Be sure and purchasethe entire accelerator unit with the arm attached. This has slightly differentgeometry which gives you more accelerator tip in and increasesthe sense of power at the foot.The steering wheel has beenchanged to a Ford Racing FR500wheel, which has a thicker, meatiergrip coupled with perforatedleather at either side of the wheel.I think it is interesting that FR500parts, such as wheels and otheritems are still available from FordRacing.Within the interior to relieve the monochromatic nature of the interior,I have chosen the seat belt positioner loops, center stack plastic, thetwo outboard air conditioning vents, the door pull surround and the doorpanel/window switch panels to paint a contrasting color. I chose a colorto link the interior with exterior. I use the anthracite color of the wheels,which is a Ford wheel color M6280. There are a number of manufacturersthat make stick on panels in aluminum, carbon fiber and other surfaces;I found them lacking a factory look and appear tacked on (whichthey are).9



SUSPENSION & WHEELS1) Wheels from CTRWheels (ctrwheels.com).2) A pitch for my tire man,Kevin D’Adamo at B>ires in Napa, California hisassistant Mike performedthe suspension duties.4) Center caps from Fordfactory torque-thrustwheels are slightly small. Arubber O-ring or a piece oftape around the mountingtabs creates adequate tension.5) Because the Pony logocap sticks up around theface of the wheel, you cansee the white plastic basefrom the side.6) Use Scotchcal blackstriping tape along the edgeto remove the visible whitestripe.7) Push cap into wheel.3) Nitto 555 extremesare mounted to 18” CTRWheels with anthracitesilver centers.A stock tire width is on theleft side.Suspension and brakeupgrades include Ford Motorsportlowering springs,10th Anniversary Cobrabrake kit (this has the redcalipers). All work is doneby the experts at B&G tires.This is not a do-it-yourselfjob, unless you have theright tools including a car liftwhich I highly recommend.18

1) Stock springs are removed.2) The Ford Motorsportspring kit (made by Eibach)includes new bumpstop forthe differential.3) Rear shocks are releasedand the differentialis dropped down to allowremoval of springs.4) Rear control arms arereplaced with adjustableheight control arms fromGranatelli. Steeda alsomakes aluminum units.5) Rear axles are removedby draining the differentialand pulling the c-clips thathold the axles in place. Thisis a good time to check theaxle bearings for wear.6) Stock rear brakes areremoved including dustplates for disks. New reardisk kit includes new dustplate, plate bracket, caliper,disk and pads.7) Emergency brake bracketsand cables have to befinessed. In this case weturned brackets upsidedown and shaved off amounting tab. Cables havea mounting locator thatmust be bent to allow forlonger movement of cable.Because these rear tiresare much wider, care thatthe cables do not touch thetires is paramount.8) Front struts are releasedand old springs go out, newsprings go in.19

FRONT FACIA9) New front Brembo diskstake place of the stockunits.10) New front calipers usethe stock mounting brackets.1) The Mach 1 grill deletekit comes in three pieces.Don’t buy the two-piece kitsas there will be a visible“hard edge” inside the grill.11) Car is moved to thealignment stand.2) Open the hood andremove the plastic faciathat resides over theradiator. It is fastenedwith Ford two-piece plasticconnectors; you will have toremove the center sectionbefore you can take out thesleeve-insert.12) Set the rear suspensionheight while the car ison the alignment stand witha ½” socket wrench.13) With the 18” wheelsand lowering springs, Fordstock alignment specs arerealizable without caster/camber plates.20

3) Pull back the stock grill.Use a piece of foam to keepit away from your hand.Danger! Sharp edges. Usea 7mm wrench and removethe 4 small bolt-headedscrews that attach the grillto the bumper plastic.4) Clean the area thoroughly.Insert the inner section ofthe grill surround. It willattach later to the commonconnectors for the upperradiator cover.5) Place 3M auto trim tapeto the bottom edge of theouter grill surround. Carefullypeel the red cover tapeoff.6) Drop in and push down.The two outer tabs takethe two piece plastic connectors.Make sure the tape comesinto contact with the outeru-shaped piece. Otherwisethere will be an unsightlygap. Replace radiatorcover. Replace all the connectorsto the facias.7) Put the Pony it its slotand put two bolts withwashers in the nylonmounting holes. I found twoFord-sources hex bolts withintegrated washers. I testfit them (pictured), thentook them off and paintedthem matching semi-glossblack.21

8) To mount the spoiler,take some gaffer’s tape (orsimilar non-residue clothtape: don’t use duct tape!)and place it around theleading edge of the bottomof the bumper.9) The spoiler does notcome out the edge butunder hangs slightly. Movethe tape and spoiler aroundtill it is even. Mark the midwaypoint on the undersideof bumper and the spoilerso they can be in alignment.10) Be sure and tweak thespoiler back and forth till itis even on all sides. Rememberthat the spoilerunderhangs the bumperslightly! Mark the holesunderneath the bumperwith a felt tip marker andremove the spoiler. Alsomark the midway point onthe underside of bumperand the spoiler so they canbe in alignment.11) I use a multi-drill bit ona right angled adapter todrill the holes. Before youdo that, check the widthof the hole with your connector(a christmas treeconnector) by drilling intoanother piece of plastic.Not all spoiler kits may havethe same christmas treeconnector size!22

12) Because of the innernarrowing of the ends ofthe spoiler, cut the heads oftwo of the christmas treeconnectors flat on one side.Re-tape the spoiler in placeand push the connectors allaround.15) Each headlight has twotabs which you pull up andout.14) The headlight bulbsshould be upgraded to abrighter white bulb. I usedPIAA headlight bulbs.16) Push headlight forwardand reach around to takeout the connectors for theheadlight and turn signal.23

17) Take out the outermounting ring and pull theheadlight out its socket. If ithas been in there a while, itmay stick to the o-ring seal.20) Reconnected the turnsignal and lamp, pushheadlamp unit back intoposition and push in thelong L-shaped connectorsand test.21) The stock fog lampslook to be not of the samestyling philosophy as theheadlamps. Custom unitsfrom AmericanMuscle.comare clear with a facetedinterior.18) Take care not to touchthe glass of the bulb. Insertit into the headlamp unitand place the outer mountingring back on.21) Jack up car and placejack stands at the mountingpoints.19) While you have it out,replace the turn signal, too.24

23) Remove the threescrews with a Torx screwdriveror socket set. I’vemagnetized my screwdriver to hold the screwseasier. One screw is on thebottom of the bumper, butthe other two are on theinside of the bumper area.Note the red circles. Alsonote how hard they are tosee!25) The original lamp isheld in one side by a pinand the other a screw witha spring for adjusting theheight of the lamp. Markthe back of your screwdriverwith an arrow so youcan count how many turnsit takes to unscrew thescrew. Write it down.24) Unplug the lamp andpull out the entire housing.26) Use a flat end screwdriverto gently expand thehousing and remove the oldbulb housing.25

27) Push the new unit intoplace and put the screwand spring back countingthe turns as you screw thenew fog lamp into place onthe housing.29) Test your new headlightand fog lamps.28) Attach the bottom Torxscrew first and then plug inthe lamp to keep the wirefrom getting in your way.You will have to put the Torxscrew on your magnetizedscrewdriver and sit and lookup at the housing. Keep thehousing away from the bumperat first so you can guidethe screw through the hole(you can’t do it with yourhead in the bumper, you willhave to look up from theoutside). After a few tries,you will find the holes.26

REAR END TREATMENTSRear Spoiler, Trunk key surround,sequential taillights and trunk lidliner, tool kit and gas cap.1) Rear spoiler is too farforward on the trunk. Youcan move this backward8/10’s of an inch so thatthe lip of the spoiler is moreprominently behind the lip ofthe trunk lid.Remove the trunk lid frominside the trunk. Lift thespoiler straight off of thetrunk, be careful not toscratch the trunk surface.2) There will be a markwhere the trunk lid sealand the body of the spoilerwing sat on the trunk. Usesome car polish to carefullyremove any lines or marksfrom this area.3) Lay a piece of tapeacross the trunk. Markwhere the current hole isand 8/10’s of an inch usingan engineers metal ruler.5) On the underside, youwill have to carefully grind aseam down where the innertrunk lid and the out trunksurface mate.6) Seal the hole with achristmas tree connector.First you must sand thetop of the tree down till itis as thin as possible withoutbreaking through theplastic. Put the connectorin the old hole and seal withsilicone. Push in the blackplastic hole blocker. Partof your moved stud will beshowing. No matter, thiswill be covered by a beautypanel!4) Measure the diameterof the hole (hole width mayvary). Carefully drill a holethrough the plastic/compositetrunk material.27

7) Reattach the spoiler.Silicone the old hole fromthe bottom as well andplace the body gasket intothe angled hole area.9) Cut it out with a sabresaw.Note: the difference whenparked next to a similarcar. The car in the foregroundhas the spoiler inthe stock position.10) Sand down any roughness.11) If you are not installinga tool box, skip to _____.Trunk beauty paneland tool box:8) Take the attached patternand trace it onto 1/8”masonite panel.12) Take your Roushtoolbox and remove all thetools and take the suppliedfour “rubber nuts” andplace them in the predrilledholes in the trunk.28

13) Drill out holes largerthan the outside flange ofthe rubber nuts on the masonitepanel (where markedon the pattern. Mark thesewith TB for toolbox. Markthe outside surroundingholes. These are for thechristmas tree fasteners.Obtain these fastenersfrom a parts store or yourFORD dealer. There a numberof sizes, so measureor take note of the recommendeddrill width. On themasonite panel, drill theseout two sizes beyond therecommended drill width sothe fasteners do not catchon the masonite.14) Place masonite panelon trunk lid. Temporarilybolt in the tool kit.15) Drill marker holes intothe inner trunk lid.17) Findtape.com has 12”wide duvetyne tape in black.This will also serve as youranti-squeek material forother areas inside the car.Place the panel on a hardsurface and cut a pieceof the duvetyne materiallonger than the panel. Thetape is not wide enough foryour entire panel; you willadd a second strip on thetop where the seam is leastnoticeable.18) Cut the overhang intostrips and fold it over tightly.16) Remove the tool boxand panel. Drill the final holewidth for the christmastree fasteners.29

19) Place on trunk andalign carefully. Push thefasteners in place and theninstall the tool box.21) Remove the rear taillightwith a deep socketwrench and disconnect thewire harness to the taillight.Trunk sound-proofingand sequential taillights.20) Remove the innerpanels of the trunk. Firstto come out is the floorof the trunk. Remove thespare as well. Take out thehard plastic piece near thetrunk latch. Use a trim toolto take out the Christmastree fasteners withoutdestroying them. If youhave a convertible, removethe inner forward panelof the trunk, then take outthe side wheel well panels.If you have a Mach 1000sound system, all amplifiers,subwoofer boxes willhave to be removed anddisconnected.22) Remove all the lampsand replace the harnesswith a webelectronics.comunit. They will give you acore deposit if you returnyour old harness.30

The webelectric.com unitcontains all the circuitrynecessary. At this time replaceall your old bulbs withnew ones. Note: do notswitch to LED lamps, thecircuits don’t like them!24) Now that your trunkis apart, use Dynamat oreDead sound proofingmaterial to line your trunk.This will greatly enhancethe sound of your stereoand eliminate reverberationsfrom your extrawiderear tires.23) Reinstall the taillightunit. Wire tie the circuitsausages so they don’tbank around. Make surethe harness seal is good.Test out your lamps inemergency blinker mode. Ifyou want them to go slower,there is a custom mademodule that replaces yourblinker circuit, but I foundthem to be just the rightspeed. Also note that whenyou step on the brakes, thesequence outward together,which I think is safer.Honeycomb rear panel25) To install the rearhoneycomb panel youfirst must remove the GTsymbol and the Ford symbol.I use a “floss”, a pieceof white fiber packing straplubricated with some “Goofoff,”sawing downwards,adding the liquid as I wentdown. This melted theadhesive but does not marthe paint. Use a cloth withmore “Goof-off” to get rid ofthe adhesive on the symboland the body paint.26) Carefully remove theFORD symbol in the samemanner. Note that theFORD symbol has twolocating prongs.31

27) Clean the back of bothemblems and put themaside. Also clean the panelswhere the rear facia willadhere to.28) Place the 3M paneladhesive strips to the backof the middle panel. Peel ofthe red cover tape. Pushthe middle panel in place.(Note: I discovered too latethat if you are placing thesepanels on a light coloredcar, that light edges showthrough. I used black pinstripingtape to repair thisoversight. You may want topaint the edges or place thetrim tape before you put onthese panels.)30) Place 3M panel adhesivestrips to the backof each emblem and pushthem in place.31) Pictures show thedifference between the revealededge and the blacktrimmed edge. You decide.29) Place the 3M paneladhesive strips to the backof the right and left panelspeel off the red cover tapeand push them into place.32

Trunk Keyhole32) The stock keyholearea looks unfinished.UPR Products makesa keyhole trim ring thatcomes with an adhesivering that simply pushesin place. Depending onthe color of your car, theUPR piece may appear tooshiny. I used a piece of 3Mfine scrubbing pad to knockdown the excessive shine.Gas Door33) The Bullitt Mustangshave a nice gas door, whichis reminiscent of the AudiTT styling, which in turnhearkens back to racingcar fueling connectors. TheFord Racing product hasjust the right amount of machining.Remove your oldgas door with the Torx headscrewdriver or bit.33

34) Also Remove the Torxscrew heads with rubberbumpers. The Ford RacingProduct has plastic on theface of it from the factory.Leave this protecting layeron the gas door.35) The side where thehinge will require small nutsto attach to the door. Forsome reason they do notcome with the product. Theright side has black nylonnuts/spacers.37) First connect the leftside loosely so they aretight but loose enough tomove the gas door slightly.37) Then connect the rightside with washer and nuts.You will have to remove thegas cap temporarily to getyour hand in with a smallwrench to hold the nuts.Tighten these enough soyou can slightly move thedoor to make sure it is centeredin the opening.36) Tape the new gas doorto the body with maskingtape.38) Tighten the fastenersand remove the protectivecovering.34

INTERIOR TREATMENTSGlove Box upgrade.1) The glove box has hardplastic inside. Most highergrade interiors have a feltlining. Old 1960’s carsused felt and cardboard.If you put anything in thisplastic box, it slides aroundand rattles.have the bottom in, peelback the rest of the backingtape and stick it down.Push down evenly.2) Supplied on this disk is apattern for your glove box.Print these files out on anylaser or ink jet printer andcut out with scissors. Usethese as the pattern to cutout using the findtape.com’sduvetyne tape.4) Next, do the left side, usingthe same technique.5) Right side comes next.Make sure that the tapegoes right to the crease ofthe inside of the glove box3) Start with the largestpiece which is the back ofthe glove box. Peel the bottomhalf away, but leave thetop half covered with thebacking tape. Get the cornersaligned. Don’t worry,this tape is very stretchableand forgiving. When you6) The inside front of theglove box comes next.Remove the screws thathold on the latch before youplace this piece. This is alarge piece. I found aligningthe outer seemed easierbecause of the tight creaseat the bottom.35

conditioner vents, the centerstack and the seatbeltguides. Along the way, Iplaced MGW Ltd. trim piecesin silver anodized aluminumwhere necessary.7) Finally there are the smallpieces that go around thelatch mechanism. Push allthe tape firmly all around.The first thing you will noticeis when you close the glovebox. It no longer clunksshut, but clicks.9) Remove the seatbeltguides. The were hard toremove because there isnot a lot of space betweenthe headrest and the fasteners.I used a torx headbit on a ¼” ratchet wrench.That did the trick.Paint Trim8) The anthracite centersfor the CTR wheels are aFord Color Metallic GrayM6280. I had this colormixed up at my local carpaint shop. I also purchaseda reducer and some Duplicolorclear coat for theseparts. I painted the doorwindow switch panels, thedoor lever bezel, the air10) Note the moldingmarks on the seat beltguides. Really looks cheap.I sanded these with 100,400 and 600 grit sandpaper,wet. I sanded till thetexture and molding markswere gone.36

11) Mixing the paint with areducer (buy reducer basedon the outdoor temperatureyou are shooting), I loadedit into a Preval Sprayer.Depending on the brand ofpaint, make sure you havethe ratio of paint to reducercorrect.12) Several light coatsyields a flat, metallic color.Make sure it is even. I usedan old coathanger to holdthe piece, but noticed thatI had to be able to look at itfrom all angles to get goodcoverage because of itscomplex shape.13) Let the paint flash offovernight. The next day,take your clear coat andgive it at least three coats.The finish will now have anice gloss to it. Reverse theprocedure to reattach. Ifound that the belt near myshoulder made a clickingsound as it moved back andforth while I was wearingit. I added a small piece ofduvetyne tape to allow it toglide more easily.Center Stack14) The center stackcomes out in two places.Simply pull the bottomsection out first. Use yourhands. Unhook the 12 voltpower plug. If you have anauto transmission, put thetransmission into 1st gear.15) Pull out the top sectionthe same way, pullingstraight out. Remove theconnectors to the switchesand set them aside. Theupper section has air conditionervents. I removedthese by breaking themelted plastic seals overthe two sections and pulledout the vents. I also pulledoff the white rubber antisqueak bumpers (that don’tactually work) and taped offthe metal clips.37

16) On the lower sectionI had to carefully tapearound the lower sectionthat has the leather textureon it. Push the tape carefullyin with a fingernail orpiece of plastic and thentrim with a knife.Then three coats of clear.Let it dry overnight beforehandling the parts.18) Reassemble the centerstack. Use a strong industrialplastic adhesive to glueback the air conditioningvents.17) I did not sand either ofthese pieces, but cleanedwith a good wax and dirtremover. Use light coats tocover the two pieces. Afterthree or four coats, let dryfor a day or so.19) Set aside the centerstack to allow the adhesiveto set on the air conditioningvents.38

Shifter Area20) If you have a stick shift,I recommend changing toa MGW Ltd. shift knob. Ifyou have an automatic,MGW also has some nicechoices. Changing theautomatic transmissionselector is more involvedthen twisting off your oldknob and replacing it withanother.23) The two wires are forthe O/D button. Cut thosewires as deep as you canwithin the knob.21) Set the parking brake.Put in the key and unlockthe steering wheel and pushon the brake. Push in theautomatic release knob andput the transmission in thelowest gear.22) In the forward facingarea of the knob is an allenfastener recessed. Find thespot, undo the fastener andpull out the knob.24) Pull out the plasticsleeve on the shaft.39

25) Note where the creaseline is on the shaft and cut itwith a sharp blade.27) Push the sleeve backover the shaft. Keep theO/D wires pulled out.28) Place some heat shrinktubing over the wires.26) I noted that wherethe plastic rubbed againstplastic on the shifter plate,it was worn and squeaked.I made a few tries to coverthis area with duvetynetape. Test fit it a few timesto make sure you have thatarea covered. The compoundcurves are tricky.29) Strip the sleeve off thewires revealing the metalwire.30) MGW supplies a blackanodized aluminum O/Dbutton adapter with twowires sticking out of it.40

31) Connect the overdrivebutton adapter to thestripped wires and twistthem together.34) Push that wire backinto the sleeve and putthe O/D adapter onto theshaft. MGW recommendsto turn the O/D away fromyou, to the back of the knob,but I left it facing forward,so I could toggle it with mythumb while driving. Noteboth positions.32) Wrap a towel aroundthe console and solderthe two wires together.Be careful! I accidentallyshrunk one of the piecesof tubing, so I had to cut itaway.33) Pull the tubing over thesolders and use a heat gunor hair dryer to shrink thetubing. You can use electricaltape if you wish, but ittends to slip when it getstoo hot.35) MTW provides a newGT handgrip (they haveother designs) and a blackbutton with a spring.41

36) Place the spring insidethe grip and then pushin the black knob. Keepsqueezing.iPod adapter for FORDMach stereos39) While all of this isapart, lets remove theradio/CD player and put ina USA Spec FORD1 (PA11series) iPod adapter. I purchasedmine from Crutchfield.37) Place the knob on theshaft and tighten down theallen fastener on the shaft.You may have to repositiona couple of times to get theangle just right.Now is the time to tightendown the O/D switchadapter as well.40) Free the radio by removingthe two bolts at thebottom of the radio flange.38) Be sure and test theO/D switch by starting thecar and putting and tryingthe switch. The “O/D OFF”light should come on in thedash.41) Pull out the radio andunhook all the plugs andantenna wire.42

42) The USA Spec unit hastwo wire adapters. Find thecorrect one (only one willwork for your radio) andplace it into the rear of theradio. I recommend cleaningall the connections inthe plugs with a connectorcleaner first. Plug andun plug a couple of timesto ensure a good frictionconnection. The USA Specadapter is a white box. Alsoconnect these together afew times for good contact.44) The same Scotchcaltape I used on my Ponywheel caps I used by runninga piece over the top ofthe radio. Voila! No holes.45) On the box of the USASpec unit I places someVelcro strips.43) An aside. I noted thatthe top of the radio has twobright silver metal “holes”that you can see when theradio is installed. Lookscheap, doesn’t it?44) There is a dip switchon the side of the unit. Youwant to put the unit into“manual” mode so that youcan access any play list youwant manually from youriPod, so using the instructionmanual as a guide,push the dip switches intomanual mode. Becausespecifications change, usethe instructions from theunit you purchase for thisadjustment. The secondcable is the one that hooksdirectly to your iPod.43

45) Apply the second partof the Velcro to the bottomof the unit and then push itinside of the console directlybelow the radio. There isroom there on the centertransmission hump.46) Attach the cables tothe radio/USA spec unitand wrap any long wireswith duvetyne tape. Trailthe iPod wire into your glovebox or out into the consolearea (my choice).47) Put the radio back intothe radio well. Attach thescrews.48) Plug your iPod into thecable and start it playing asong.49) Start your ignition oraccessory switch and turnon your radio. Toggle theCD button. You will see a“DJ” mode. This is what isaccessed by the adapterbox. It tells the radio thatthere is another CD changerin the trunk. You cango forward or backwardthrough the songs usingthe controls on your radio.If you push CD again, it revertsto the six-CD changerin your head unit. If youriPod is off, it may start youriPod, but leave it in pause. Ifthe connection is bad, youwill see the “eject” messagecome up and your unit willtune to the radio. The entireunit stays on for 1 hourpast ignition turn-off, so youcan be assured that youriPod is charging.50) Let’s complete thecenter stack, now that thegear shift is in and the iPodadapter is attached to theradio. First place the whiterubber bumpers back onthe upper stack piece. Useduvetyne tape to all theobvious surfaces that mightsqueak. You may have totest fit the piece each pieceand push to find the squeakproneareas.44

51) Be sure and return theswitches to their rightfulplaces. Push the centerstack into place. Now isa good time to pull out oldHVAC knobs and put inMGW replacements.54) Use the given allenwrench to tighten the unit inplace. Don’t tighten too tightor the allen screws will simplypierce through the plasticand disappear into the oldhandle.Instrument panel52) Put the car in first gearagain and reattach the cigarettelighter wires. Pushinto place and then put thecar back into park. Notethat I have used the MGWradio knob instead of thestock unit. Just pull the oldone off and push the newone on.53) To complete the centerstack, install the MGWemergency brake handle.With the handle in the upposition slide the handlecover over the top.55) I have designed a “281”instrument panel that isbased on the block numberstyling of engine designationof Fords from the 1960& 1970’s. This involves asilver bezel with a laser-cutnumber 281 in the center.Other numbers are availabledepending on yourengine size.56) Remove the headlightknob. We will replace thislater with a MGW knob.Pull the headlight switch toon and twist it so you cansee the slot at its base.Place a small screwdriverat the silver tab and pull thetab outwards. You will haveto pull on the knob veryfirmly before it comes off.45

57) Unscrew the twoscrews below the top lip ofthe instrument surround.60) Place a soft T-shirt orcloth on top of the steeringcolumn and tilt the panel sothe instruments are facingupwards.58) Pull the instrument surroundforward and out. Becareful not to scratch it.61) Unplug the instrumentcluster.59) There are two blacktorx screws on each bottomside of the panel. Takethese off.62) Unscrew the clear plasticbezel and screw in thenew desotodesign bezel.Before assembling, however,blow out the instrumentswith some forcedair to get the dust off theneedles. Blow out the insideof the new bezel as well toremove any dust.46

63) On the instrumentbezel, place duvetyne tapearound where the bezelcontacts the dash.66) Push on the instrumentsurround and check it forcreaks and squeaks.64) Also on the dash area,place duvetyne tape at criticalcontact areas.67) Then turn on the headlightswitch and turn theinstrument brightness to itshighest setting. Orient theknob so the lightbulb bottomis down. Place the newMGW headlight knob on theshaft and tighten with theprovided allen wrench.65) Plug cluster back intowiring harness and screw inthe assembled cluster intothe dash.Two outboard AC vents.47

68) In order to paint thedriver’s side AC vent, onemust first remove thelower valence. There is onescrew on the left hand sideof the valence. The rest unclipsby pulling downward.71) Pull the vent out.69) Remove the metal“knee deflector” via the twobolts on either side.72) To remove the passengerside vent, drop open theglove box door and unscrewthe two screws that holdthe vent in place.70) There are two screwsholding the vent in place.Remove these.73) Pull out the vent.It has hard clips on the top,so it may take some effort.48

74) It is too hard to disassemble,so careful maskthe front and back of thevent. Use a thin piece ofplastic to push the tapeinto the hard to fit spaces.Place typing paper overthe foam part of the ventso that the tape doesn’t ripthe foam off.77) Push the vents back inplace, reapply the mountingscrews.75) Carefully spray thevents using the samepreparation and care thatyou used when painting thecenter stack.76) Carefully pull off thetape and then place duvetynetape around the insideedges of the flange aroundthe vent.78) While the knee plateis out. Replace the pedalswith the Bullitt pedal kit.The dead pedal unbolts andthe Bullitt place takes itsplace. The brake/clutchpedals simply pull off andare pushed on. The morecomplicated piece is tochange out the gas pedal.Order the complete pedalassembly if possible. Thisis because the angle of thepedal is set more aggressivelyand feels better whenpushing down on it.49

78) Reinstall the kneeplate. I also used duvetynetape to quiet any areas thatcreaked by test fitting thepiece.81) Unscrew the doortweeters and unplug thetweeter assembly.Door Panels79) Unscrew the door lockpins.82) Use a soft, flat tooland remove the door pullassembly. There are twoscrews that hold the doorpanel firmly in place. Removethese.80) If you have a Machsound system, carefully pullthe cover off of the doortweeters.83) Unscrew the electricwindow switches.50

84) At the front of the dooris a christmas tree plug.Pull this out. You probablyshould replace this with anew one.87) Peel away the plastic/foam inner door insulationmost of the way. I had tocut a slot to allow the doorlock shaft to clear the panel.85) Remove the twosheet metal screws fromthe door panel to the door.88) Use eDead or Dynamatsound deadener in thedoors. I measured out howwide a strip would fit intothe door.86) Lift up on the doorpanel and “open” the doorhandle and carefully pull thedoor panel away from thedoor Turn the door panelover and push out the doorhandle bezel.89) Cut the strips the appropriatesize with a razorblade, straight edge or pairof scissors.51

90) Peel off the backingpart way.93) Place the plastic/foaminner door insulation backinto place.91) Place in the door anduse a brayer to press inplace. Pull the backing off.Press the rest of it on firmly.94) Also install eDeadinsulation on the inner doorpanel. Cover the beigefoam inserts with duvetynetape.92) Cover the door thoroughlyon the inside andthen along the outer layeras well.52

95) Use the supplied patternsfor the inside of thedoor pockets to cut shapesout of the duvetyne tape.There is a banana-shapedpiece that fits on the insideof the panel and a rectangularshape that fits on thebottom of the pocket.97) The bottom layer in thepocket will need a little finessingto line up correctly.96) Apply these to theinside of the pocket and thebottom of the pocket.98) Prep and paint the doorpull surround by removingthe electric window switchesand cleaning with an antigrease prep cleaner. I alsosanded the pieces lightly,trying to remove any moldingmarks.53

99) If you haven’t already,pop out the door handlesurround.Prep and paint the doorhandle surround.102) Use a long hollow rod(this from a hobby shop) tohelp locate the lock buttonin the door panel and lineup the bottom hooks of thepanel.100). After the paint is dry,apply duvetyne tape to theinside edges where frictionagainst the door would occurto both pieces.103) Pull the door handlethrough the door panel andpush down on the panel.Replace the xmas treefastener in the front. Alsoscrew in the two screwsthat hold the panel to thedoor.101) Push the door pull surroundinto place.104) Put the electricwindow switches back inthe door pull surround andpush the surround into thedoor panel. If there is anycreaking here, pull the paneland apply duvetyne tape.54

105) Return the tweetersto their original location.Press on the cover.108) Take the inner setscrew,screw it in till it hitsthe top of the shaft andlocks it into place.106) Use MGW door lockpins. The pins come withtwo set screws.109) Take the outer finishscrew and screw it down tillit covers the hole.107) Screw the door pininto the shaft. Hit the lockbutton or push the lock pindown. Screw it so that itis seated all the way downwhen locked.Steering wheel area110) I replaced the originalGT steering wheel with aFord Racing FR500 wheel.It is thicker than the stockwheel and has perforatedsections that match theperforations on Ford GTseat leather. This wasdone through the Forddealer as to not disturbthe airbag. Please do thesame.55

111) MGW makes twopieces for the steering column.A turn signal stockcover and a tilt wheel lever.114) The original tilt levermust be removed with asmall wrench. There is twoflat areas that allow thissmall adjustable wrenchto fit. The lever is on verytight. Turn slowly and deliberately.112) The turn signal stockcover is extremely simple.It consists of a ring that issmooth on the inside and aseries of o-rings. I placedtwo o-rings on the stockwhere there are grooves.115) The new MGW tiltlever has some lockingpaint over the threads andis also hard to turn tight.Do this slowly until the knobis secure.113) After that, it is asimple matter to pushthe ring carefully over thestock, compressing the ringaround the o-rings to makea tight fit.Addendum: You may wantto install eDead or Dynamatunder the back seat andon the inside of the innerpanels near the passengerseat. While not absolutelynecessary, this does enhancethe sound of yourstereo.56

DESOTODESIGN EMBLEMSTwo DESOTODESIGN emblemshave been includedwith your design kit. Theseare designed to blend inwith classic Ford 1969-73fonts and “block” design.They are made out of lasercut plastic.4) Carefully position the emblemover the taped cornerand the rotate the emblemto line with the tape on therearward side of the emblem.Take a piece of cleantowel or cloth and use it topush the emblem onto thebody.1) Remove the red layer offof the 3m trim adhesive.2) Clean the forward areaof the doors above the bottomstrake with an anti waxagent.3) Use 1 ½ “ tape andplace a strip on the frontleading edge of the doorand above the bevel on thestrake.Odds and Ends:MGW Cupholder Rings1) Rather than just look atdull holes in the consolearea, I ordered two aluminumrings that surroundthe cup-holder depressions.57

The small one uses an o-ring for a compression fit,the larger one simply pressfitsinto the large rubberinsert.3) Line up the emblemstabs and mark it with asilver “sharpie.” Be sureto check to see that marksare in the middle of the wideridge.Powered by FordSill plates1) These are reproductionfender emblems for the289 AC Cobra availablefrom Finish Line Accessories.First, simply pull the sillplates up off of the clippedridge of the interior.4) Drill a 3/16” hole oneach mark. In the meantimeuse the 3M trim tapeon the back of the emblem.2) Measure 15” from thefront of the sill and mark itwith tape.5) Be sure the plasticsurface is clean, then pushthe emblem down onto sill.Reattach sill to the interior.58


SUSPENSION, WHEELS & TIRESNOTE: Sources attached when this is the primary or preferred source of these partsor materials. All other parts should be shopped for best price. Part numbers maychange without prior notice.Wheels:CT-R GT-40 Style wheels 1999-2004 Mustang2) 18” x 9” Gunmetal/Aluminum2) 18” x 10” Gunmetal/AluminumOther colors: Chrome & Blacksource: www.ctrwheels.comTires:Nitto 555 Extreme ZRFront: 245/40/ZR18Rear: 235/40/ZR18Springs:Ford Racing Part# M-5300-GRear Lower Control Arms/Weight Jacker:Granatelli Motor SportsPart#GMCA998WJBrakes:Ford MotorsportsPart# M2320A 10th Anniversary Cobra Brake kit, front calipersPart# M2300M 10th Anniversary caliper/bracket kit, rear axlePart# M2400C 94-04 Front Cobra Rotors with hosesStriping Tape:3M ScotchcalPart# 73302Not Shown:Ford Racing Strut Tower BraceM20201-M4660Ford Racing Strut Tower CoversF4ZZ-118A179-AFRONT FACIAMach 1 Grill Delete Kit:Ford Part# XR3Z-AA224-AA Medallion Assembly-Rad GRFord Part# XR3Z-8C299-AAA Cover Assembly-RadiatorFord Part# 3R3Z-17B814-AAA Aplq GrlMach 1 Chin Spoiler:Ford Part# 3R3Z-17626-AAAPIAA Headlights :HB5-12V 65/55 wattsPart# 9007Foglights:Part# 14054-LFMST99CDPsource: www.americanmuscle.comREAR TREATMENTSTrunk mounted toolkit:Roush Performance ProductsPart# SM99-580-WRSequential Turn signal circuits:Part# STS-1MPW Mustang Sequential Turn Signal Systemsource: www.webelectricproducts.comRear Honeycomb Panel:Classic Design ConceptsPart# CDC-105050 (For GT)

Duvetyne Felt Tape:Pro-Tape Duve-Prosource: www.findtape.comAutomotive Acrylic Attachment Tape3M AA plus Attachment TapePart# 051131-06386 (Black)Aluminum Trunk Bezel KitUPR ProductsPart# 1136-01Fuel DoorFord Racing ProductsPart# M-2301-EINTERIORGray MetallicPaint# Ford-M6280 (PPG# 301445)MGW Ltd Interior Pieces1) Cupholder Bezel, Silver2) Large Cupholder Bezel, Silver3) Gripper Shift Knobs (for manual transmissions)4) Mustang Coat Hanger set (for coupes), Silver5) Deluxe 2-tone A/C Control Knobs (set of 3) Green/Silver6) Headlight switch knob, Silver7) Deluxe E-Brake handle, Silver8) Door Lock Pins, Silver9) Tilt Steering Knob, Silver10) Turn Signal Knob, Silver11) Radio Knob, SIlver12) AOD Shift Knob (Silver/GT)source: www.mgwltd.comiPod Radio AdapterUSA Spec PA11 (Ford)source: www.crutchfield.comiPodsource: www.apple.comInstrument Panel/281Part# DD-IS1-281source: www.desotodesign.netBullit Pedal SetFord Pedal Cover (Automatic/2002-2004)Part# 3R3Z-9G757-BABullitt FootrestFord Pedal Cover/FootrestPart# 1R3Z-6312024-AASteering wheelFord Racing Leather Steering wheelPart# M-3601-BSound Proofing MaterialeDeadsource: www.edesignaudio.comFloor MatsACC Floor Mats (GT)source: www.americanmuscle.comDoor Sill “Powered by Ford” Emblemssource: www.finishlineaccessories.com61


LINKSDESOTODESIGNwww.desotodesign.netSound System Acousticswww.edesignaudio.comClassic Honeycomb Trim Panelwww.classicdesignconcepts.comCT-R Wheelswww.ctrwheels.com/gunmetal.htmFord Racing Motorsport partswww.thefordsource.comFord Racing Motorsports partswww.performancepartsinc.com/main.htmFord Racing & Partswww.americanmuscle.comPhoto CreditsPages: 1, 2, 3 & 5: Ford Motor Company Industry PhotographsPage 4: copyright Michael PlitkinsSee more of his motorsport images atwww.atspeedimages.comAll others photographs: copyright Lewis deSotoFord Racing Productswww.fordracingparts.com/home/home.aspInterior Aluminum Trimwww.mgwltd.comMach 460 & 1000 system informationwww.flemworld.com/Mach460/Mach.htmlTrunk Key Surroundwww.uprproducts.comSequential turn signalswww.webelectricproducts.comThis document is intended as an approximate guide to parts and assembly of saidparts. DESOTODESIGN is not affiliated with Ford Motor Company or its subsidiaries.Your results in regard to quality of paint and assembly may vary. Note that is prudentto take all safety precausions when using mechanics tools, and paint chemicals. Theauthor is not liable for accidents or the user’s bad judgement in relation to assemblyor paint coatings.63

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