12.07.2015 Views

Tne Onrcrrunl WooDWoRKtNG AND Home ... - Wood Tools

Tne Onrcrrunl WooDWoRKtNG AND Home ... - Wood Tools

Tne Onrcrrunl WooDWoRKtNG AND Home ... - Wood Tools

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

Tne Onrcrrunl WooDWoRKtNG AND Home lvrpRovrMENT MRcRzrrururj st,9y tAAt t4.gitiililil/iffr


GontentsFEATURES30Elegant Garden ArborIt's sintple nt build with portable ptttuert ttttl s, 1t re- m ad e lat t i cc, a r r d d i r n cnsio n alItmtber from tlrc lnme centcr.37Addon Garden BenchAssrrr: yttrrrsclf a rcstful spot in tlrc gardenb, nddinp tlis funch ttt tlrc arltor'38Swin$ng Gateslnclrtdc a ltair ttf',qatcs and tlrc arbttr btctttttL'silt (ttr)'ltt'd)'l ittto 1'ottr .qardtt'40Modular FenceAdd n pair trf-.r/iorl rilngs o-ff tlrc sidcs ttfthc arbttr, ()t'(ttcl(tscan entira 6vga of your),drd ruitlt Iltcsc modular panels'woRKBENcH D MARcH I APRTL 2000


42Garage Shop SolutionsIf cars, clutter, and chaos describe your shop,check out these tips for putting togetheran effectiue garage workspace.46Jigsaw TestWe put six top-notch jigsaws nose-to-nose inshop tests to find the best oJ the bunch.51Jigsaw TableCet suoll saw controlfrom your jigsaw withthis easy-to-build benchtop table.52Arts & Grafts LanternWelcome friends and family with thisstylish outdoor lantern. Mount it to a wallor atop a simple redwood post.DEPARTMENTS868Edito/s Notes60Low-Voltage LightingLight up the night by adding dramaticillumination to your home, yard and gardenIt costs just pennies a night to operate.62Outdoor ScreenThis attructiuenclosure hidescentral air- conditioning units, trashcontainers, or othetunsightly objects.Around The House10 72Workbench Interactive In The Shopt4 76Questions & Answers Tools & Products22 88Tips & TechniquesCraftsmanshipWORKBENCH tr MARCH I APRIL 2OOO


EDITOR'SNOTES\[ml$al\rcnvotuME 56 NUMBER 2EDITOR Doug HicksAilt0CnfE EDITORS Kerry GibsonDavid E. StoneAIiSISIAI{T EDIIORS Bill LinkKevin ShoesmithART DIRECTOR Robert L. FossSR. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Paul F StigersSR. IIIUSTRAIORIi Erich LaeeSusan R.JessenITTUSTRAIOR Mark S. Gravescouple months ago ourfour editors told me theyhad to see me about something"important." (At times likethese, I usually consider hiding out inthe shop and hoping it blows over.)Apparently theyd been "surfingthe .Web," and couldn't believe howmuch home irnprovement and woodworkingstuff was out there. Theyseemed pretty excited about sharingthis information with our readers.A NEW DEPARIIIIET{TBefore long they had me hooked too.So after kicking it around, we decidedto start a brand new department,"Workbench Interactive" (see page 10).We've found hundreds of Websites and online forums dedicated tohelping do-it-yourselfers and woodworkers.And most of this informationis completely free. The questionis, how do you sort it all out?That's where we'd like to help.We'll do the legwork of finding the'Vfeb sites and software that of[er usefultips, help you find supplies, andmake building projects easier.H0wTO REAGH USffiEditorial Questions:Workbench Magazine2200 GrandAve.Des Moines, IA 50312Subscription Questions:Workbench Customer Ser-vicePO. Box 842Des Moines, IA 50344-9961(800) 311-3991Fax: (515) 243-0447Okay, this sounds like a good idea,but what if you don't have a computeror access to the web? If that'sthe case, we'll pass along the bestinformation we've found on theWebin this new department.T00t RRflEWSSince I'm talking about new things,let me tell you about something newthatt been added to our tool reviews.We've asked several of the guys whoalso work in our shop to test the toolsand offer their "Points of View."That got me thinking. Why notask the readers about their own experienceswith these tools and whetherthey agree with our results? And I'msure the manufacturers of the toolswill have plenty of opinions as well.So I decided to open up the discussion.On page 50 you'll find outhow to get involved. I look forwardto hearing from you soon.C)qEditorial Questions:editor@workbenchmag. comOn The Internet:www.WorkbenchMaeazine. comGreat Project Plans:www.PlansNow.com'WoodworkingFree'WeeklyTip:www.'WoodworkingTips. comCREATIVE DIREGT0R Ted KralicekSENIOR PH0I0GRAPHER Crayola EnglandPROIEOI COORDlilAfOR Kent WelshSHOP MANAGER Steve CurtisSH0P CRAFISMAI{ Steve JohnsonPROIECT DRIEL0PER Ken MunkelSENIOR PROJECT DESIGNER Kevin BoyleELEG. PUB. DIRECTOR Douglas M. LidsterPRE.PREIiS IMAGE SPECS. Troy ClarkMinniette TohnsorrPRESIDENT& PUBIISHER Donald B. PeschkeADVERTISIiIG SATES MANAGERSMary K. Day (515)282-7000 ext.2200George A. Clark (515) 282-7000 ext.220lDIRECT RESPOI{SE ADVEBNSING SATESMAI{AGERLisa Wagner (407) 645-5165MARKE]ING COMTIIUI{ICATIONS MANAGERTara Meier (515) 282-7000 ext. 2135PUBTISHING CONSUTTANTPeter H. Mlller (202\362-9367FOR HELP WITH YOUR SUB!}CRIPTION:WORKBENCHCustomer ServicePO. Box 842Des Moines, IA 50304-9961Phone: f800) 311-3991Fax: (515) 283-0447Online: ww.WorkbenchMagazine.comTO ORIIER WORKBEI{CH PRO'ECTSUPPTIES:Call 1- 800 -311-3994FOR ilIORE IIIFORMANOil ABOUTHOME IMPROVEIIEI{T, W(XIDWORXIIIG, GARDEiIINGAI{D CqXIilG. VISIT IIIE AUGUSI HOME WEB SITE:http :/,/www.AugustHome.com-"lfnf. t6$'.*;:ii.1i,WORKBENCH 0SSN 0043-t3057) is published bimonthly(an., Mar., May,July, Sept., Nou) by Augu* Home PublishingConrpany,2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, Iowa, 50312.l,l/ortlrcrrlr is r registered rrademark ofAugu* Home Publishing.CopyrightO2000 August Home Publishing Company.All righs reserued.Subscription rates: Single copy, $3.95. One year subscription(6 issues),915.94; mo year sub., $27.95; three year sub., $39.95.Canadian/lntl., add $10.00 per year Periodicals postage paid atD€s Moines. IA and at addirional ofices."USPS,rPerry Judd\-Heardand DivAutomarable Poly."Posmaster: Send address changes to l4brkbenth,PO Box 37272. Boon e. IA 5003'7 -0272.Printed in U.S.A.woRKBENCH ! MARCH I APRrL 2000


ffi$prkbench InteractiveWoodworkerns Gentral Web Site Invites VisitorsJoin InHot*'u'*'.*'ooclrvorkin!r.or.gWoodworker's Central haseverything you d expcctSite from a good woodworkingInternet'Web site - a ton of usefulinformation, plenry of tool reviews,and lively discussion forums. Butwhat really sets this site apart rreseveral unique, interactive elenrents.Features like the Woodworkcr'sCazcttc (an onlinc nraglzirre writtenby woodworkers) and the ToolSurvey (a database of tool reviews)are a couple ways thrt this sitc istruly interactrve. Not only can yousearch these areas for the ir-rforrnationyou want, but you can sr.rbmityour own tool review or article forothers to read.The guys responsible for this siteare Jim Mattson and Chuck l\ing- lifelong woodworkers who liveon opposite sides of the coLrntry.The two crossed paths on theInternet and teamed up to create asite with good information and noadvertising. They do sell menrbershipsto help oftlet the cost ofthesite, but n.rostly pay for it out oftheir own pockets.&EaY*F!trId8*+-+Jlaa-nJr8-JBd lcqd Sb n*d a@ Sd F!@ 8fu Sb hn.shtyhqffir I rnetfraw€.ryeph,4 {ukbffiover . ,o00 s€arch.blr tool rev€w5 submr{\a! by/.) i;:li;;:l ;,'-:#Lo*,ne q,",ton. .e",on"..* *o l?) ffi" *-* .bou, wh., ror ro do\-, yourel.stntheMaz..\r/vnhyourwoodwo*hgrools.Nr'!'rrx wr!\'r,,!Irrr WW4 clrdrlrrMdny rebn.rtoG suppoil thd wWA in i'5 €tron5 to prcvrdd uniquo Soe whil hak€s thir sebsito diffa€nt than €ny orhor.ndwoodwoding soNrc8s. visit this p.96 to s6€ rho th.y aF,6nd out f,h.t's gohg on h.E.riililrq rh. y/w^Naw woodsuder rr{orlrlFind olt ho* you can EEt Involv.d and hslp suppod this *.bsite, Th.!s p:q€s:rc tor tolks nee to th. w€b:nd can uss aIt{6 h6lp.lipfiom lheWffiwlolgffiAdd a'/i' of mineral spirits to apolyurethane glue containerbefore capping it for storage. Themineral spirits will sit on top ofthe glue and block the ambientmoisture that causes it to cure inthe bottle. Dump the mineral spiritsbefore using the glue again.ws 6ncou€9€ all our v$itoE to send usthst thoughts, suggestions and complaintr,ls it worth sharpening steel bladesor should you iust buy carbide?ffiffisr*m'tarsrr.T@r Sltop Desltner Makes Moving Tools EasyMI-!:4:-- Td (l|IlJ rRlr3t -ndd|u trqir-* =. tlPffiFl ffi@E -Sottware . ^rq uuit.ti,,g r rrcw shop orf/iN \(I}/ rccorrfigtrrirrg the old onc.Review Sltop Desigrer can helpcnstomize lrn are:l to fit your needs.This downloadable sofrware letsyou lay out your shop area and tl-rendrlq rnd drop tools until yotr 6rrdthe best confipprration.I tried this program and it tooknre less time to figure out than itwould have taken r-ne to nlove onestationary tool across the shop floor.I took points away fror-n the prograrnfor rwo lcasons: First, it doesn'tlet you angle tools in the shop -which is a great way to save space.Second, the price is a bit high.Justthe sanre, this is still better thar.rthlowing out your back rrrovingreal tools around in the shop.Title: S/rrrp DesigncrCost: $23.45Developer: Infornration Architects'Web site: r,r'ns,:infoarchitecls.conrRating: $r-$ -$ ot s10 wOI\KtsENcH tr MAI{cH AP]{IL 2OOO


Hand Tools vs. Power ToolsThere's a trew discussion forunt tt \\'\\'\\iworkbellchMilglzine.colll calledWorkbunlt Interactive. In this forum, we ask the questions and visitors sivetheir opinions.Thc best responses will be printed I'rere-+=\\ You can participate by sending us a questionyou'd Like to hrve posted in the forut'r'r. If weuse it, wc'll send you t free Workbarclt ctp.Subn'rit qllestions to:Workbench Interactive Forum2200 Grand AvenueDes Moines, IA 50312or, editor@ workbenchmag. comWHEN IS A HAND Tq)t A BETTERCHOICE THAN A POWER TOOL?A hand tool is better than a power tool when you want toget the feel, texture and workabiliry of your stock- I sometimes usehand tools when starting a project to see how the wood cuts, planesor works before going hard at it.- tcalWhen a snrlll job doc'str't wtrr:utt thc setup tirlre- I)auc Arlucklt1. When you need the gentle touch and feel that is absent frompower tools.2. When it's late at night and the noise will drive your wife crazy.3. When the power is off and you've just got to finish the projectthat you are working on.4. When you really want to pour your heart and soul into amasterpiece that you've created.-JimTincherI have found that hand tools lre the best choice when I want tonrake nristakes at r slower rate ofspeed.- Wood BrtttltcrI like to give each project I build my personal touch' If there is carvingon the piece, that will be my touch. Sometimes I will accomplishit through hand sawing, or chiseling. Anything to ensure I have donesome work without a power tool.- hernieI use hand tools when thc process is Itrore itlrportant than the product.There is sorlrcthing wonderful about the souud of a sharp plane ironspinning shavinqs ofIof r piece of wood that brings peace to the soul.- Mikc Caldu,ell'With practice I have found that using hand tools will save a lot ofsetup time and do the job just as well. Until you have devoted thetime to practice using your hand tools you have not fully experiencedwoodworking satisfaction.- es4778You've Got E-TipsHomeTips rrc likc tools'fr- youcan't have too many. Signup and we'll send you aPage free tip eueryFrrrirl'rn_r'our oe-Dlall. ln 110 00n t _worrv. ";"'' wc "' won """ r Fneg TtesBY E-MAILsell vour nallle ()raddress to other conrpanies.)To sign up, go torr rr rr. W,rrkLrelrcllM iru.tzll l('. ('ot I I.rrrd look for thc [rec tips icon.UndeniableGonstruction TruthsMiningKt\Here'.s sorrc advice fro'':r Web site dcvoted to\ irrrproving thc relationshrpThe Web betwe en honreowners andcontr:rctors. Learn nlore at:\\'\\'\\'. st lt il f tconstl-u cti() Il . colll1. Architects, engineers, andcontractors will all ntake mistakes.So will you.Work together toovercot.ue thetl.2. Not all contractors are dishonest- but sonre are.3. Not all hor.neowners are dishonest- but some are.4. There is no free lunch rnconstruction - dont askcontractors to do rnore thanthey have contracted for.5. Construction will never go likeclockwork.6. Ne,r.r lie to your contractor.7. Yor,r have the right to expect thecontractor to staffyour job withconlPctelrt pcrsonllcl.8. A srrrall down paymenc isreasonable - beware thecontractor that needs money uPfront to buy rrraterials.9. M"ke all your choices beforeconstruction begins, or don't besurprised when your contractormakes them for you.10.Virit your conffactor'.s place ofbusiness. He will pursue yourjobin the same way he keeps his ofice.t2wol{KBENCtH tr MA11.CH I APRIL 200t)


uestions & Ans\MersRepairing Mitered Siding GornersSecond:Cover gap wlthThlrd: &erflll gapFlll la€el gaps wlthexterlor wood putty.Force top ofcap under sldlngcoulse above.Installower caps flrstand work upward,Force putg InSand putty flushafter lt cures.Jl I',n getting ready to repaint myI t 42-year-old house and I needsorze aduke. lt ltas redar sidinp\tltat'sinitered at tlte rcrners, anr! someof tlte miters are opening up. How canI jix tlrcm before I paint?Robert ReinholdtAshland, OROption 1: If the separations areminor, simply work exterior oilbaseprimer into the joint, then fillthe joint with a paintable acryliclatex caulk.Just over'fill the jointwith caulk and cut it flush with thesiding after the caulk cures.Option 2: When the joints haveopened farther. you can't rely onLike all wood, house siding caulk to fill the gap. In that case,expands and contracts as use exterior-grade wood putry (tryhunridiry changes. Paint helps Minwax or Durhamt Rock Hardnrininrize the movement, so keeping brands). Again, overdll and sand thea good coat on everything is a must. putry flush once it's dry.But anpvhere there are joints or Option 3: If a lot of the jointsbreaks in the siding, the paint will are open, filling them could be moreeventually crack.This lets moisture work than you want. If so, you canin that can warp, expand, or rvvist cover all the corners with aluminumthe boards.This is probably the cause corner covers.They'Il be noticeableof your problenrs. How you fix these up ciose, but not from a distance.areas depends on how far the cornershave separated.severe case you could cut away all ofOption 4: As last resort ln athe mitered corners byoPTtol{ 4 through tacking up a straightedgethen cuttingsldlng down tothrough the siding witha circular saw. Next,go back and installCaulk sldlng edgesOverlap cornerbefore installlngvertical corner boards.Of all these options,though, this wouldchange your home'sappearance the most.HETFVUANTEIDSENIOR EDITORWe're looking for an enthusiastic and organized individual to join theWot*batch magazine team. This in-house position requires aknowledge of woodworking and home improvement, writing andediting experience, and dedication to quality. Ideal candidate willhave supervisory and management skills, and be able to coordinateschedules and meet deadlines. Send cover letter and resume to:Doug Hicks, Editortttoftbard, Magazine2200 Grand AvenueDes Moines, LA 50312Fa* (515) 282-674Lemail dhicks@Augustllome.comAUCUST HOVIB President/Pubrisher: r )onrr,r Ir. r'c\chkc'I \ pu eLI s H I NG co M paN';::.lrT:: :'r;:',";' f:::::i:;,,'i:,,::.'.,"flnntns. Accounts Payable: Mary Sc\Lltz . Accounls Receioable: M,trgo I'ctrus. ProductionDirector: (;eo(gc (:hn)iehrz . Production Assistant: Susr) I{ucvc . Network Administrator:(lris Schrvrnebeck .New Med.ia Manager: Gordon (irippc . Web Site Art Director: Ccncl)etlersen .WeD Site Product Specialist: AdrD llesr E-Commerce Analyst: Cxoll)elz-Schoeppler . Benefits Manager: Kirsren Koele . Facilities Manager: Julir Fislr .Receptionist: lcdnnc lohns


A Quick Gover-Up for a Paneled Roomfl I trtart to dnnge the appcnrattrt'I I of a parrcled room irt rtt1, 111t115g,nrid I'm onsidt'rirtt, prrttitt! uD\trallp@cr. Can I papcr iuu tltr pnrclirr.qor uill I have to rerrrovt' it?Jeffrcy Andersonuia tlrc lrrtcrnctPanelingCoatpaneling withprimer/sealer, WallpaperpasteYou can wallpaper over thepaneling, but first you needto fill the grooves or they'llshow through. Traditionally, thisnreant filling the grooves with jointconrponnd, then sanding and prinringthe wall.Thatis messy work.A clerrr lrrd casy w.ry is to coverthe parreling with a heavy wallpapercalled lining prper. Itls sold in rollslikc rcgul:rr w:rllp:rpcr. but lirrirrqpaper is thicker. Inside the p:rper aresynthetic fibers runnins lensthwise.When you apply wallpaper paste(sorry, itis not pre-pasted), sonre oftining paper(hang horlzontally) -..-.---the moisture soaks in, causing thefibers to shrink ancl shorten.Thispr"rlls the lining papel taut, so itbridges the grooves in the paneling.Wrllprper stores in my area sell a5(r-sq. ft. double roll for around $10.To use the lining paper, start bys:urding the prneling or applying adeglossini4 solution to give the sur-face sonre "bite." Then apply aprinrer/sealer. Next, paste andapply the lining paper according totl-re instructions - it usually goeson horizontally. Follow that witl.r acoat of priner over tlre lininqpaper.Then hang the w:rllpaper ofyour choice. Or, if yor.r prefer, youcan paint the lining paper.Getting the Most Frcm an Insulation SystemSiding\__-/Wall studPlastlcvaporbarrlerlnsulation R-value = 15.0Rigid foam R-value = 3.75House wrap R-value = 1.0Total wall R-value = 19.751I\IHighdensityinsulation(R-1s)Housewraporbuilder'sfelt(up to R-1)Gl n "lrtsrilatiort that Works" irtI I yttur Sqttt'nrbcr/()rtoltcr 1999f i.r-srrc you talkcd about li.qb, I,dcttsitl insulatiort ratcd at R-19. I'ntItnvin,q rto luck-findin,q it, do yott knou,u,|rcrc it's auailablc?T.htnnas KaiscrDctntit, MII Se,reral readers have run intoLf problcnrs locatinq thc high-Fl d"nriry insulation, andrurrfortunately it's because we nradean error.There are high-densityfiberglass batts available, but thehighest rating is currently R-15,not R-.1 9. Standard insulation battsare rated at R-1 1.The R-19 fisure represents theminimum total recornmendedl{-value in most areas for a 2x4exterior wall. Obviously, if even thehigh-density irrsulation is rated atjust R-15, somethins nrore rsneeded to achieve the R-l 9 total.Thatt where the rest of the "insulationsystenl" corres into play.As showr.r in thc drawing at lcft,an exterior r,vall needs insulationplns three nrore conrponents:exterior sherthing, house wrap, lnclrrn interior vapor brrrier. Tcuethcrthey keep outside air and rnoisturefronr gctting in. and stop inrcriorrir lnd rrroisture lronr cscaping.l)lacing insulation between thewall studs does the bulk of the job.And for years, it had to do thewhole job. Exterior sheathine wasusually wood planks or plywood,rnd neither is a good insulator. Nowrnany builders use rigid foam rnplace ol, or over, wood sheathing.Foam's R-value varies by typ.and manufacturer, but you canfigure on getting about R-5 perinch ofthickness. So ifyou use standardR-11 insulation in the walis,you need over 1'l:"-thick sheathingto reach the reconrmended R-l9value. Using thc rrcw high-dcrrsiryR-15 batts, yolr can get by withthinner sheathing.That keeps overallwall thickness down.I6 woITKBENCH ! MAr\crH I Apr{rL 2000


Safe Bdension Ladder SetupHowfarfrom the wall should thebase of an extension ladder sit?MarkWilsonChkago, ILThe setback distance (S)varies depending on theladder's extended length (L).Setback should be 1/+ of the Length,(S=L+4), but that's tough to measurewithout climbing the ladder.Instead, stand straight, with yourtoes againsthe ladder's base. Extendyour arms, and if you can rest yourpalms on the rung closesto shoulderlevel, the laddert setback is fine.PalmsshouldrestUnfinished To FinishedInHalf TheTimeGomputer DeskFinish Formulatl 1 liked the appearance of theI lcomputer desk in the Nov/Decissue.What tvoe of=1999plywdod was useil and what did youuse for stain and finish?DonWagmanvia the internetNow wood finishing is twice asfast, twice as easy with MinwaxoPolyshadef That's because Polltshades@combines stain and polyurethane inone. Stain to add rich color and enhancewood's natural grain, and polyurethane for@2&m Minw Comparry All rith6 mved.@Minw md lrolFhadd e regi$eftd @dmarl6long-lasting protection and a warmluster. Pof,sha&s comes in a variety ofcolors, and can be used over rawwood or even prwiously finished wood,without having to strip away the old finish.Potyshada. Abeavttfirl finish in a lot less time.Srnw & PorvunErHANE IN ONEMakes And Keeps Wood Beautiful"www.minwaxcomProduct lnformation Number 191:ffi,HWe built the computer deskwith cherry veneer plywoodand edge banded it with solidcherry.While cherry does eventuallydarken with age to a rich, reddishbrown, the process takes time andexposure to sunlight.To "speed up"the aging process, we've developeda stain that gives new wood atraditional "aged" cherry look.The stain is a mixture of threeparts Zar Cherry stain w'ith one partWood-Kote Cherry Jel d Stain.Thelatter gel stain minimizes blotchingthat sometimes occurs with cherry.Once the stain dried thoroughly,we followed it with three coats ofGeneral Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin.a wipe on oi-l and urethane finish.And bewveen coats, we rubbeddown the suface with a 3MScotchbrite white buffing pad.


Tips & TechniquesAnother Solution for Warped Deck BoadsI've read several deck building articlesthat suggest positioning war-peddeck boards with a b;rr clanrp byskipping r phnk and fitting it inlater. But installing the skippedboard can be difficult, especiallywith long deck boards or with ahidden fastening system.To avoid the trouble, I ttse barclarnps that work as spreaders. Iattach a temporary sLlpport ahead ofthe work area and position theclar-nps between the ter-nporarysupport arrd the board I'rnir.rstalling. The rnethod works greatand I don't have to go back and fitin skipped bolds.Miclncl SclnpartzWstal, NYSupport temporarllyPVC Pipe Makes Post Repair EasyIn the Nov/Dec 1999 issue ofWrrklwrclt, you dcscribed ttstttq ;tg:rlvarrized tin or coppet' sleevearound the bottor-n of a fencc postwhen setting it in cor-rcrete.Thatwry if the post brelks off, yott c,tttpull it out ofthe sleeve and replaceit. For n-rany years I've r.rsed largediameter PVC pipe as l sleeve forthir-rgp like flag;poles rnd light posts.To do this. I st.rrr by diggirrg:rlargc dirrrretcl post hole ("' dteperthan the fiost line.Then I placeabout 6" of pea grrvel irr the bottom.Now cut r picce of pl:rstic pipcfor the sleeve.The pipeis inside diametershould be large enough to leaveat least '/:" all the wly lror-rnd thepost. It should be long enoush toenrbed in the pea sravel several inchesand still clear the top of the hole.Next, plumb the pipe and pourconcrete around it.'When the concretehas cured, insert the post.Thenfill any space bervveen the PVC pipeand the post with rnore pea gravel.6" tDPVC pipeGoncrete3" thlck4r4 postPeq gravelIfthe post ever breaks or needsto be r-ep1aced, simply use a shop vrcto pull the sravel out of tl.re pipeand fi'ee up the broken post. Insertyour ncw post arrd rcplace thc peagravel you just vacuunred out.Tbnt LarreyTttty, MISHARE YOUR TIPS,IIGS, AND IDEASDo you have a unique way of doingsornething? Just write down your tipand mail it to:Worhbp nch'fips & Techniques2200 Grand Ave.Des Moines, [A 50312.Please include your name, address,and daytime phone number.If you prefer, e-mail us ateditor@workbenchmag. com.We'll pay you $7t$200 and send you aWorkbench cap if we publish your tip.In addition, The Stanley Works issponsoring Tips & Techniques, andwill send an award for the tip in eachissue that best describes the creativeuse, care or application of tools.MAKE SOMETHINGREAT'22woRKIIENCtH ! MAI{cH I API{lL 2000


Best Tool lipSave Shop Space with Portable Tool BasesSponsored By The Stanley WorksMy shop is pretry small, so I can'tleave power tools like my scroll sawor thickness pllner out when I'mr-rot usinsr thenr.To store them, Inrount each one on a section ofcountcrtop. (You can buy shortpieces of damaged or discontinuedcountertop fairly cheap at mosthor-ne centers.) I bore 1"-dia. holesin the pieces ofcountertop andhang them on wood pegs attachedto my garage wall.IJang on wood pets'When I'm ready to use the tools, Iclanp them to r.ny workbench in theshop, or nry picnic table or sawhorseswhen I'm working outside.Dauid CrossBranch, MIIn recognition of his tip,Woilhend, reader David Gross winsa set of tools fromThe Stanley Works. Send us your tip andyou could be a winner, too. ;The Stanley Worksl{ew Britain, GTwww,stanleyworks.comDividing a GircleEqually Is SimpleI rh".ays r'vanted to make a circulartic rack that would hang on thervall in my closet. It would hold allmy ties and choosing one wouldtake just a spin of the wheel.After making a round woodwheel, I tried to mark offthe placesto screw in the tie holders at evenlyspaced increnrents.That took a lotof time and guess-work.To save time rnd be more accurate,I cut a paper circle the samediameter as the tie rack.Then Ifolded the paper circle in half, andir.r half again, and again, until I hadfolded it four times.'When Iunfolded the paper, I had divided itinto l6 identical wedses.Placing the paper on top of thetie rack, it was easy to mark thewheel at each fold line.This gaveme l6 perfecrly spaccd positions toattach the tie hangers.Ben RacoutskiCamarillo, CAUnfold paper and markwheel at the creases. Wood wheelPrototypes EndSize DisputeMy wife and I have both wantedto add an island work center to oLlrkitchen for a number of years. Butwhen the time finally came to putone in, we couldn't agree on thesize. She thought my design wouldcrowd the kitchen. I thought herplan was a bit undersized.Rather than build sonrethingone of us would be unhappy with,we decided to start out with somecardboard protofypes.I headed for the local grocerystore and gathered up as manycardboard boxes as they would giveme.-When I got home, we cut theboxes into pieces and duct-tapedthcrrr together into full-size protorypesof our island designs.These cardboard protorypeswere light enough to move aroundthe room, and having them fullsizemade visualizing the newkitchen easy.Karl WekhRock Island, ILwor{KBENCH ! MARCH I APRrL 2000 23


Tapping out Old Wood PlugsI r-cccnth' :lttelrdeclrn :ructron:urclpur-ch:rsccl rr couplc tc:rk ch:tirs th:rtrrcedecl sonrr' rlttcntion.Thcv u'clc il1-rr-cttv qoocl sinpc ovcrrrll. but vcrt-soitrsc lrrrd lctt thcnr rr bit urrbLrhrThe biggcst ploblcrr sccnrccl tobc uhcrc thc chlrir :rpr()lr:lttuchc(lt()tlrc brrck lcgs.Thc scrcu's lrrrd loosenccl ovcr thc t'clrrs :rncl nccrlcrl tobc r-cplecctl.Thc problcrtt \\':rs thirttlrc sct-cn ltcutls nct-c covcrcrl bv{lttr'.1 rr.,.'.1 l'ltrS.. I l)( (llt(\ti(,r)\\,r\hou. to rcnrovc thc pluqs rr ithoutcllrnr.rqirq tlrc sr.rrrclrnclinq n'ootl.Mv solutiorr n:rs to rl'ir,c lr nrrotl\\l'r'\\ int() tlrr' 1t111- trrttil tltt' |,,intcrrcoLrrrtcrcrl thc old screu. As I contirrr.rcil to r'lnr,c irr tlrc scrt*. it tirrccrlthc plLru out of thc holc.This nru-kcd :r[roLrt firur- urrrcsout oi fi,'c. Whcn it ilirLrt u,ork, Ib:rckcd t]rc scr-en out :rr)d uscd tlrclrolc rrs :r stru'tclrolc firr rr drill bit toborc thc pltrq out.Iitll llrittort. l11;rr4trt'ri1rrr', \:.\ /From Seam Ripperto Wire StripperW]ren nn' u'ifi clisc:u'ilccl :r se:rnrrippcr th;rt hud bcconrc too clrrllfir her scuinq srrrk. I gr':rbbccl itt() usc :ls r n irc irsLrl:rtion str"ippcr.It urrlks ncll or .rll nilc' sizes. firnrsrrrrrll spc:rkcr n ire .rrd rcgul:rr llnrpcolcls to thick picccs of l{onrcr.I l. L. I)ort,ttin,ql\,rtlarttl, ()llMultipleWe mal


Backer Board Ends the Hunt for StudsI recently undertook thejob ofinstalling 3ulr" crown molding inseveral rooms of my house. Oneproblem I faced was locating all ofthe ceiling joists to nail the top edgeof the rnolding to. So I did somethinga litde difl-erent. I installedbacker bollds at the intersection ofthe s'lll and ceiling.Then the moldinscould be nailed to the backerbo:lds r,vithout having to worryabout joist location.I r.nade the the backer boards outof 2x2's.Working with 8-ft. lengths, Ibeveled the boards t/u" in from oneedge at 45o.The bevel keeps thebacker board from interfering withthe crown molding and provideswider nailing surfice than the sharpcorner would have.Next, I r.railed the the backerboards to tl.re rvall top plate, leavingthenr short of the cornersabout 1'l." so they wouldn't interferewith the mitered corners ofthe molding.Then I nailed themolding into the wall top plateand the backer board.The backer board provided afirm nailing suface and elinrinatedthe guesswork of finding the joists.Bill CourlaWestlake Village, CASimple, AffordablePVC SuppoftsTo support a workpiece while gluingor finishing, I use'4" PVCpipe with a Tee fitting on the endto keep the pipe from rolling.Thepieces are cheap and can be thrownout when they get too messy.DaveYoungrenClouis, CAt\I!''{: l! t'i!lq1gi.is6wAD


You can build this adaptablearbor in a weekend usinga few portable power toolsand eas1, - to -fnd materials.SARBOR WITH BENCHOVERALL SIZE: 64t/z" W x 31"D x g6t/q"HT trour yard probably looksIt ntrrh different than mine.II And that's fine. This versati-leproject adapts to fit just about anyl-ronre landscape.l3y itself, the arbor makes a simplepass-through and gives garden vines apiace to climb. Add the bench, asshown here, and you've got a comfortableresting spot - ideal at theend of a garden path. With a gate, itbecomes a dramatic entryway thatdraws guests into your yard. Or addfence panels to help enclose a wideopenpatch of lawn.This lrbor design uses standarddinrensional western red cedar lumberso theret nothins to rip. f{ou'llfind a nraterials list for the basicarbor on page 36.) Even the prenrium-gradelattice is a standard iten.rat home centers (turn to Around theHouse on page 68 to find out moreabout buying and working with lattice).Using these materials meansyou can build the whole thing withjust a circular saw a jigs"*, a drill,alld ;1 rollter.SIDE PANET ASSEMBTY(See pages 3tl-36)N0TE: Go to y4rpv.Wprkbe4chM?gi4!e.coOto download cuttlng [r LLlli!-- - Idiagrams for thls prolect. lusri! -flf you don't have Web access, send a stamped,self-addressed envelope to: Workbench CuttlngDlagrams, Attn: Garden fubor, 2200 Grand Ave.,Des Moines, lA 50312BUILD IUSI IHE AREOR . . .ADDAGAIE...OR INSTATL A FENCEwot{KtiENCH ! MARCH I APRTL 2{l{r(} 31


I----i).ro"rnI exteriorwoodscrewSlatefl'29Y2" longlRidge(2x6-31" long):/---\#8x2" Fh GANOPY ASSEMBTYexterior woodscrewNoTE: See page 36for Materials ListIlArch(2x8-36" long)Plate(2x6-29V2" longl#8x31/z" Fhexterior woodscrewStretcher(1x4-26" long) CANOPY\_;;PLAN VIEW4"+5Y2" | 22"exterior woodscrewSTART WITH THE ARCHESA large part of this arbor'.s appealcomes fromthe graceful archedcanopy. At firsr ghnce. it utay notseem possible, but each arch can becut from a single,36"-1ong piece of2x8 cedar lumber.The key to shaping the archescorrectly is creating flat surfaceswhere the arches nreet the ridge andthe side panels (Carttpy Assembly).Todo this, first lay out the angledstraight cLlts on the arch blanks(Arclr Blank Layout).Then cut alongthese lines with a circular saw.The exact shape of the curveisn't critical :rs long as you cut thearch pieces all the same and makethem a unifon"t't 3'l." wide. A templatemakes it easy to create identicalparts. (l like to use hardboard forter-nplates since it flexes little andholds up better than cardboard.)To r.r.rake the arch template, firstcut a piece of hardboard to the samesize and shape as the arch blank. Nextuse the ArclrTemplatc Crid to plot thebottom edg;e of the arch on the template.Carefully cut the curve to shapewith a jigpaw or band saw then sandthe edge snlooth.For the arch to be a unifornrwidth, the curved top edge n)ust beparallel to the bottoln edge.You canaccomplish this easily with a simpler.r-rarkin guide (&.q. 7). The guide'stwo pins (4d nail$ follow the bottomcurve.To use it, hold a pencil inthe notch and mark a perfect echoline 3'l.t' away.Once you duplicate the curve, layout the arch's radiused end on thehardboard. Then finish cutting thetenrplate to shape. If necessary sandany rough spots. To complete thetemplate, add the alignment marksroughly near the center of the twoflat edges (Arch'Ibmplatc Critl.Now the template is ready touse. Line up the flat faces of thetemplate with the correspondingfaces on an rrch blank. Use a squareto strike pencil marks across theedge of the blank at the alignnrentmarks (Fig. 2).Then trace the templateoutline onto the arch blank.Herei a tip. Before moving ontothe next arch blank, flip both theblank you just marked and the templateover. Now realign the templateCut just outsidethe line, thensand the archto final shape.Extend line acrossedge of blankWith the bottom curye cut on the template,hold the marking guide's pinsagainsthe template. Mark the uppercurve as you move the guide along.Align the template on the arch blankand mark the blank's edge at the templatealignment points. Then trace thetemplate on both sides of the blank.Use a iigsaw to cut the arches to shape.Stay to the waste side of the line andwatch ont for blade wander. lf neces'sary, file and sand the edgp squarc.32woI{KtsENcH tr MAl{CH I API{IL 2OOO


ARCH BLANK LAYOUT-T311/ta"I.\-_______\Ipa,l)l--t---------- I l\l%"-2y2"_)I73V2"Stan gdd at this corner,4) lzn'4with the reference nrarks on theblarrkls edge and tr:rce the tenrplateiorrtlirre t>rt tlrc rltltcl sidt.This nray seenr like overkill, especirllyif vou lr:rve l good blnd sarv.But rvhcu I st:rrted cuttinq out therrrchcs n,ith nry jigsaw, it ciidn't takc'lonLr tirr the blade to heat r,rp ar.rdstill-t to flcx. My first lrch wound uprvith :rn edge that erew ploercssivelynrore beveled. lly nrarkine :rrch outlinesorr both sicies of the blank, itqavc nrc a rcfc'rence linc so I couldclLrickly file ancl slnci the bevelcdc'clge blck into scprare.When you hrve :rll tlre blanksnrarkecl, cut thenl to shape rvitl'r abrnd saw or r jigsar,v (FlC l). (To seethe lirtest ir-r jigsaw technolouy, turnto Tirp-Nolr/iJig.sari,.s on page ,{(r.)MOVE ON TO THE SLATSAftel cutting out all tl.re arcl.res, thenext step is to lay out the loc:rtionsfor the cauopy slats. If 1,ou study theCdrtopl, Plart Vicrt,, you'll see tl-rlt theslats rur-r p:rrallel to each other.Ordin:rrily, you could use r scrf,pwood spaccr to kccp thc uaps unrfornr,but tl'rese slats cant in and out.ls thcy tbllow tlrc ('r.r'vc\.To keep the spacing even, lay thcirrches side by sicle on your benchand chnrp thenr toqether (Fiq 1).l)on't worry if the curves c'lon't lir-reLlp exactly, as long as thc Llpper endslre flush - this is, alter all, rrn outdoorproject that will shrink :urclexp:rnd with clr:urges in the welther.Startine rt the upper end of onelrch, hold a tirpe lreasrlre so it corrfornrsto the arcl-r ancl nrake a nrarkfbr the onter edge of each slat. Youuray want to drive a brad througl-rtl.re hook end of the tape so youl.rrve both hands fi-ee to hold thetrpe down asrainsthe curve of thearch. C)nce the slat locations arerlarked, use r sqLlare to transfer thenrarks across all four :rrches.Frorrr hcrc oll out. thc rcnr:rirringcanopy parts - the slats, ridqe,strecclrers, iurd pl:rtes - are straight,dirnensionll lr.rnrber. After you cutthese pieces to length, bevel thebottonr ends of the ridge lnd sl:rts(Rid,qc Dctnil, Slar Dctail, and Fiq. -1.You rlso rreed to chanrfer the loweredges of the pl:rtes (Platc Dctaif). Arouter with a pilotecl chanrfering bitworks well for this.Use a square to transferslat locations acrossall four arches,Bend measuring tapeto fit arch curve andGlamp the four arch pieces together surface to mark the first slat at 3%"with the upper ends flush. Tack a tape and the remaining slats at euery 4t/2tt.measure in place on the upper end and Then use a square to extend the slathold the tape againsthe arch's curved location marks acrcss all four arches.Glamp the slats together with the endsflush. Then tilt your circular saw bladeto 45' and use an edge guide to gangcutthe bevel on both ends.WORKtsENCH t] MAI{CH APRIL 2000aaJJ


\GANOPY ASSEM BLY SEQUENGESTEP 1: ctr" and scrcw\ each stretcher to upper ends\\ of twoarches.,t\ \\\#8 x3Vz" Fhexterior woodscrewsFraming squareStretcherSupportblock Align the stretchers 172"below the top of the ridge.#8i3y2" Fhexterior woodscrewsSTEP 3: abck the ridse inpositaon, and glue and clamp thewing assemblies to theridge.Then scr€w thestrctchers tothe ridge.STEP 2: quate the arch/stretcher assembly, andattach the plate to the arches with glue and screws.ASSEMBTE THE CANOPYPutting the canopy togetherreminds r.ne of the model airplanes Ibuilt as a kid.You asser.nbled the twoidentical wings first, then fastenedthem to the fuselage.Here, you start with the two archassemblies on each side of the ridge(Canopy Assembly Sequcnce, Step 1).Begin by gluing and screwing thestretchers to the upper ends of thearches. (Consider using constructionadhesive or polyurethane gluefor a strong, weather-tite bond.)Next, r-nount the plates.To squarerhe assenrbly. hold a franring squxreagainst each arch and the stretcher(Stcp 2).Apply adhesive to the plate,line up the plate on the arches, anddrive two screws to fasten it at eacharch.Then repeat the process for theother arch assembly.With your "wings" assembled,position the ridge between them. Icut a block to hold up the ridgewhile I glued and clamped the wingsin position (Step 3). Once they're inposition, drill countersunk screwholes in the stretchers and drive thescrews.You'll want to be sure to offsetthe screw holes slightly so thescrews won't collide (Ridge Detaitl.Starting nearest the ridge, alignand install the slats on the canopyassembly, but leave the next-to-lastslat off on both sides (Srep 4). Thiswill give you access to install theplates to the side panels later on.CONS]RUCT THE SIDE PANETSCompared to the canopy, the rest ofthis project is straightforward. Thetwo identical side panels consist of apair of 2x4 legs joined by 2x4 rails(Sidc Pancl Asscnrbly). Grooves routedin the rails and in 2x2 retainerSIDE PANET ASSEMBTY#8x23/a" Fhext, woodsclew€-=< )4" Timberlocksclew or1/c" x 4"lagscrew4" Timberlockscrew 0rV+" x4"lagscrew(YUpper side rail(2x4-23" lont)lVz"-/ĪRetainer strlp#8x2"Fhext. woodscrew)strips keep the lattice in place.If you noticed the ltg PIanView,it calls for a t./*" groove. This isn't amisprint. I chose a -/'"-thick, premium-gradelattice for this projectbecause it has fewer knots so it'ssturdier and looks much nicer.That'sLower side rail(2x4-23" long)Retalnerstripmlliililllilillffita^J+WORKBENCH tr MARCH I APRrL 200t)


#8x23/a" Fhexterior woodscrewsLeave the nexto last slatoff to simplify canopy installation.STEP 4: sta*tne atthe ridge, attach theslats to both sides of thecanopy. Align the slats onthe parallel marks you madeearlier on the arches.important here since both sides ofthe lattice will be out in plair.r view.The added thickr-ress nrakes it morerigid, so it adds some structuralstrength to help keep the side plnelsfrom racking. The oversized groovelets you slide the lattice into place.Upperside rallTimberlock0rlocation3/t" gtoove,Vz" deepLEG PLAN VIEWLy2"RailbackerRetainersttipRouter with 3/q" straightThe legs were designed to sit ontop of a concrete footing or: p:rd. Ifyou wsnt to sirrk tlrcrn irr a posthole, lengthen thenr accordingly(see Mouirg artd M


ASSEMBTY SEQUENCEG=


®WEEKEND ARBORIssue 258 Number 2 March/April 2000MATERIALS LIST FOR ARBOR CANOPY & SIDE PANELSLUMBER: (CANOPY & SIDE PANELS)(4) Arches 1 1 / 2"x7 1 / 4"x36"(2) Stretchers 3 / 4"x3 1 / 2" x 26"(1) Ridge 1 1 / 2"x5 1 / 2"x31"(14) Slats 1 1 / 2"x1 1 / 2"x29 1 / 2"(2) Plates 1 1 / 2"x5 1 / 2"x29 1 / 2"(4) Legs 1 1 / 2"x3 1 / 2"x72"(4) Side Rails 1 1 / 2"x3 1 / 2"x23"(2) Rail Backer 1 1 / 2"x3 1 / 2"x23"(4) Retainer Stp. 1 1 / 2"x1 1 / 2"x59"(2) Lattice Panels 5 / 8"x20 7 / 8"x59 7 / 8"HARDWARE:(32) #8 x 2" Fh exterior woodscrews(40) #8 x 2 3 / 4" Fh exterior woodscrews(16) #8 x 3 1 / 2" Fh exterior woodscrews(24) 4" Timberlock screws or 1 /4" x4"lagscrewsCUTTING DIAGRAM FOR ARBOR CANOPY & SIDE PANELS2 x 8 - 72" TWO BOARDSBBBB2 x 6 - 96" ONE BOARDA E E2 x 4 - 96" SIX BOARDSFFFFG G G GHHPage 1 of 4Copyright 2003, August Home Publishing Company.All Rights Reserved.


®WEEKEND ARBORIssue 258 Number 2 March/April 2000CUTTING DIAGRAM FOR ARBOR CANOPY & SIDE PANELSARBOR CUTTING DIAGRAM2 x 2 - 96" 8 BOARDSC C CC C CC C CC C CCCIIII1 x 4 - 72" ONE BOARDDDPage 2 of 4Copyright 2003, August Home Publishing Company.All Rights Reserved.


®WEEKEND ARBORIssue 258 Number 2 March/April 2000MATERIALS LIST FOR BENCHLUMBER:(2) Ends 1 1 / 2"x3 1 / 2"x21 1 / 2"(1) Front Rail 1 1 / 2"x3 1 / 2"x47 1 / 2"(1) Back Rail 1 1 / 2"x5 1 / 2"x50 1 / 2"(5) Seat Planks 3/ 4"x3 1 / 2"x50 1 / 2"(1) Back Rest 1 1 / 2"x5 1 / 2"x50 1 / 2"(1) Seat Brace 1 1 / 2"x3 1 / 2"x16"(8) Back Slats 3/ 4"x3 1 / 2"x11 1 / 4"HARDWARE:(29) #8 x 2" Fh exterior woodscrews(4) #8 x 2 3 / 4" Fh exterior woodscrews(20) #8 x 3 1 / 2" Fh exterior woodscrews(16) 4d galv. box nails (w/heads clipped)CUTTING DIAGRAM FOR BENCH2 x 6 - 72" TWO BOARDSKL2 x 4 - 72" TWO BOARDSMONN1 x 4 - 72" SIX BOARDSQPQPQPQPQPP P PPage 3 of 4Copyright 2003, August Home Publishing Company.All Rights Reserved.


®WEEKEND ARBORIssue 258 Number 2 March/April 2000WING CUTTING DIAGRAM (PAIR)2 x 6 - 48" ONE BOARDRR2 x 4 - 72" two BOARDSTT2 x 4 - 96" TWO BOARDSUSUS1 x 4 - 96" TWO BOARDSV V VV V VFENCE CUTTING DIAGRAM (SINGLE SECTION)2 x 4 - 120" TWO BOARDSXWXW1 x 4 - 96" THREE BOARDSY Y YY Y YY Y YWING CUTTING DIAGRAM (PAIR)2 x 6 - 48" ONE BOARDZZ2 x 4 - 48" ONE BOARDA2A22 x 2 - 96" TWO BOARDSB2B2C2C21 x 4 - 96" TWO BOARDSD2 D2 D2D2 D2 D2Page 4 of 4Copyright 2003, August Home Publishing Company.All Rights Reserved.


Add a Garden BenchExpand the arbor's uersatility and good looks by building this garden bench. A simple framesupports the seat and a slatted back lets the garden breeze pass through.y itself, this arbor will attractplenry of attenfion. But addthis bench and you create aconvenient spot to relax and enjoythe garden scenery around you.BUITD IHE FRAME FIRSIA sirnple 2x4 frante holds up thebench seat and also ties the two arborside panels together.The back is builtsinrilar to the arbor'.s side panels -llrooves captLlre the seat's back slats.Even though the Matcriak Listgives bench part dimensions, you'llwant to nreasure your arbor beforecutting f,ny ntaterial. With the partsall cut to length, rout the groove forthc back slats in the back rest andback rail. Then lay out and cut theback rest to shape (Back Rest Detail.Now, screw the seat frame togethcr.To hold thc frarrrc in position,clamp temporary cleats to the arborlegs (Fiq. 1). Next, screw the seatplanks to the franre.Then set the slatsin the back rail groove and fit theback rest over them. Screw the backrest to the arbor. (Jse a 2'/z"-widespacer to position the slats, then tackthen'r in place with 4d galvanized boxnails (|iq. 2 and SIat Detaifi.'frMATERIATIi IISTBENGH ASSEMBLYIo+*8x3Vz" ftrexterior woodscrew#8x2" Fhexterior woodscrew/)#8x3Vz" Fhexterlor woodscrew\__-/- 8"---_14"--1 / |=End(2x4-2U2" longl \Z4d galvanizedbox nail.Snip off headand countelsink.Back rest(2x6-5072" long)Back slat(Lx4-lL1A" longlSeat plank(1x4-5072" long)Back rall(2x6-5072" long)#8x31/2" Sa---'/exterlor woodscrewTUMBER:(2) Ends tr/2'vJt/2" x2lt12"(1) Front Rail 7tfz" x31fz" x 471f2"(1) Back Rail 71f2" x51f2" x501fz"(5) Seat Planks 3/t" x31/2',x501lz',(1) Back Rest lt/2'x5112" x50y2"(1) Seat Brace 111r" v31f2" x16"(8) Back Slats 3/4'x31/2" x1I114"}IARDWARE:(29) #8 x 2" Fh exteriorwoodscrewsGlamp cleats to the arbor legs to supportthe bench frame until you can(4) #8x23lt" Fh exteriorwoodscrews(20) #8*3t12"Fh exteriorwoodscrewsdrive the scrcws. Position the cleat so(16) 4d galv. box nails (w/heads clipped)the top of the seat end is 17%" high.Fit the d* in the gruoved back rail,then install the backrcst over the top ofthe sl#. Slide the d# into positionwith a spacer and tack them in place.woRKBENCH tr MAllcH I APRrL 2000 37


Dramadc EntranceAdding gates to the arched-top arbor creates an entryway that draws you in and makes youwonder what's on the other side. Simple gate hardware keeps construction clean and easy.y now you've probably realizedjust how versatile this-U project can be. The gatesprovide the option of using thearbor to control access to a yard orgarden without making it seem likea barrier.FRAITIE AND SIAISIfyou look at the bench on the previouspage, you'll have a good ideahow these gates go together. Thetwo panels mirror each other. Andthe gates are built the same way asthe bench - the slats fit intogrooves cut in the top and bottomrails. Stiles of 2x2 lumber completethe frames. Dimensions for the gatecomponents ere shown in theMateilals List on the opposite pagebut take time to measure your completedarbor's opening and buildyour gates to fit accordingly.HARI'WARE AI{I' HAI{GII{GThe gate hardware is as straightforwardas the gates themselves. I used3" zinc-plated butt hinges to mountthe gates to the arbor legs (HardwareInstallation View). A simple cane boltholds one gate closed until you needwide open access, and a gate latchkeeps the other gate from swingingopen on its own.To hang the gates, start bymounting the hinges to the gatestiles.Then round up an extra pair ofhands and have that person hold onegate in position while you screw thehinges to the arbor leg.Resting a level on the edge of along, straight board, transfer theposition of the installed gate stile tothe other side of the arbor. Thenmount the second gate so it's levelwith the first one.With the gates hung, clamp themclosed temporarily while you installthe latch and the cane bolt. Thenclose the gates and drop the cane boltto make a mark on the ground.To create a "latch" for the canebolt, drive a short (4"-6") length of'/n" I.D. pipe @VC or rigid copperwill work) into the ground on themark.The top of the pipe should beflush with the ground. IJse a piece ofw'he to clean the dirt out of the pipeso it will accept the bolt. rT


HARDWARE INSTAILANON VIEW4" balMATERIAIIi LISTTUMBER: (FOR TWO GATES)(2) 0uterStiles 111r'x1112"x373f4"(2) Inner Stiles l1l2' x !r/2" x353/4"(2\ Top Rail 1t1r' v5t/2'x20r/2"(2) Bottom Rail L1/2" x31/2" x201/2"(6) Gate Slats 314" x3112" x261f t"HARDWARE:(4) 3" zincroated butt hinges w/screws(1) 4" bar-type gate latch w/screws(1) t1r" x L2" zinc{oated cane bolt V screws(16) #8x3tf," Fh exterior woodscrews(12) 4d galvanized box nails (clip the heads)(1) 4"€" lengh of 3/o' l.D. copper or PVC pipeGATE ASSEMBLY4" bar gate latchTop rall(2xB-201/2" longlt*ilV2" x L2" cane boltGate slat(lx4-261/+" longl0uter stile(2f,-37s/t" longlBottom rall(2x4-201/2" longlWORKBENCH D MARCH I APRIL 2OOO39


Whether you add just the wings or build afencefor the entire yard, you'Ilfnd thesedecoratiue panel simple to build.And the extra-long stiles eliminate the needforfence posts.l-l-lh. small wing panels noto"ly look great with theIJ- gated arbor, they add somestructural support as well.And ifyouchoose to build the Gnce panels, thewings provide a nice transitional stepdown from the tall arbor.NTEGRAIED PUilsBoth panels are constructed similarto the gates. For these panels, however.I used 2x4 lumber for the stiles(Wing and Fence Assemblles). Thiseliminates the need for separatefence posts. And with stiles ofadjoining panels going into thesame post hole, you still wind upwith substantial support. (Note thatwhile this method works for a lightweight,decorative fence design suchas this, a heavier, barrier-type fencemay require heavier posts and concretefootings.)The top rail on the wing panelgets the same decorative touch as thebench and gate. Rounding off thetops of the stiles gives them a morefinished look (Post Top Radius).I designed these fence panels to bejust under 5-ft. long. For otherlengths, add or eliminate some of thespaces and slats (6" for each space/slatcombination). This flexibility comesin handy if you need a shorter orlonger panel to complete a run.Depending on your situation, youmay also need to ftrrn a corner ormake a bend to fit your yard.When Ihad to deal with both situations, Icame uD with wavs to still connectthe posts solidly (Tbehniques forConnecting Fenee Panels).PR(ITECNilG YOUR PROIEGTYour arbor, like any outdoor project,will be subject to the rain and thesun's ultra-violet (JV) radiation. Ittthe UV light - not moisture - thatbreaks down the suface fiben of thecedar and causes it to turn gray.Moisture just lets mildew and rot geta foothold on these weathered fiben.If you want to keep the cedarIooking natural, use a IJV resistantclear finish (such as Cabot ClearSolution, 800-877-8246) whichlimits damage from the sun and protectsagainst water. Expect, however,to rejuvenate this rype of finishevery couple ofyears. tf40woRKBENcH tr MARCH IAPRrL 2000


TEGHNTQUEIi FOR CONNEGTING FENGE PANELS#8x23A Fhexterior woodscrewSTRAIGHTON...TURNACORNER... 0R CHANGE DlRECTlOltlSDrive exterior grade scrcwson both sides of the posts.WING AND FENCE ASSEMBLIESFor riglrt angles, screw a 2x4block of wood to both stiles.Miter a piece of wood to fitthe angle you need.Wlng top rall(46-20122" long)-7I\#8 x 3la" Fhext. woodscrewsWlng Inner stlle(2x4-6312" long)Wlng bottom rall(2x4-2012" longlWlng outer stlle(and fence stlle)(2x4-6L!2" longlN0TE: Stlle length can vary dependlngon how deep you want the posts anchored.Dlmenslons shown allow for 24" below ground.-\ItMATERIAUi IISTLUMBER: (FOR ONE WING)(2) lnner Stile tlf2" x31f2" x631f2"(2) Outer Stile lllz'x31lz" x6tlz"(1) Top Rail t1f2" 1$rf2" 1201f2''(1) Bottom Rail 11f2" xJt/2" v20112''(3) Slats 3/i' x31/2" x261/41'HARDWARE: (FOR ONE WING)(8) #8 x 31/2" Fh exterior woodscrews(6) 4d galv. box nails (heads clipped)LUMBER: (FOR ONE FENCE PANEL AS SHOWN)(2) Stiles 1112" x31/2" x6ll2"(2) Rails I1l2'x3112'x561f2"(9) Slats 3/4" x31/2" x26114"}UIRDWARE: (FOR ONE FENCE PANEL)(8) #8 x 31/2" Fh exterior woodscrews(18) 4d galv. box nails (heads clipped)POSTOP RADIUSWORKBENCH tr MARcH J APRIL 2OOO 4T


For many of us, setting up a home shop means working in the garage.T|y out these10 simple tips to get moreJrom your garage work space and still haue roomfor your car.rke a minute to ir-uagrneyour dream shop.You probablysee a large roonrequipped with a full array of powertools. It has loads of cabinets forstorage, plenty oflights and outlets,a heating and coolir-rg systenl, andcentralized dr"rst collection. There'seven a dedicated finishing area withwindo'uvs to let in pler-rry of lightand fresh air.Now back to reality. Many of r-rshave a Gw power tools and a benchcramnred into the corner of a garage.And actually setting up shop meansleaving a car out on the driveway.Ilr.rt if you look arour.rd, theret probablya lot of untapped potential.Thechallenge is finding it. Her-e are 10sinrple tips some of us here atWorkbutdt have used to r-nake ourgarage shops a better place to work.,| usE MoBTLE T0or BAsEs r0ISHoRTEN SHoP SETUP TrMEI When I wanted to stalt a projectin rny garage shop, it used totake me the better part of a rrorningjust to get things set up. I waswasting valuable woodworkingtime. Now, I have sawdust flyinginside of 15 rninutes.By putting all n.ry stationary toolson r.nobile bases, I can quicklywheel them into position. You canbuild your own, but for the moneyand tine involved, I d opt for ahear,y-dury commerciai base.That's just part of the solution. Bymarking the bases'locations on thegarage floor with paint, you canwheel each tool right back to its"ideal" spot (see the photo aboue).This helps you recreate an efficientworkflow, but more importantly youdon't waste time leveling up the toolseach time, since most garage floorsslope or have peaks and valleys.42woIIKBENcH tr MARCH APRIL 2OOO


OOilIHI{E TUMBER STORAGEworkpieces. Clamp a board to a r REGULAR WAXING HELP!iW]IH A ilrIM SAW STAIIOI{ jointer fence (see photo at lower leJt) fl[EP Ttpr,,]s FREE oF RUsrHandling long boards in or crank your drillpress table down tUconrroiiing rhe climate rncrampect quarters sometlmes requfesa litde fancy footwork. To save stepsand your back, consider creating ato match the table saw's heieht.IMHZE WAtt SPAGE WMImost garage shops amounts to openingor closing the overhead door.The heat and cold may be tough onlumber rack that doubles as a mitersawPEGBOARD OR SLOTWALTyou, but it's the humidity that'sstand (see the photo at left).Floor space in any shop is a tough on tools. Rust can form onA setup like this lets you liftboards straight onto the mitersawwithout having to change their orientation.Whether you crosscut theprecious commodiry but it's particularlytrue in a gartge shop whereyou rypically share the space withcars, bikes, and yard equipment. Tocast iron tool sudaces almostpiece to finished length, orjust trima board to a manageable size, it reallysimplifi es material handling.al usE (mrER Trn$ rc(,supponr rABLE sAw wont(lU wno woulont Iove to nave acabinet-sryle table saw with massiveextension wings and outfeed tables?But you may as well try parking anaircraft carrier in your gerage ifyou're short on space. One way tokeep table saw size in check is to useother tools to help support largefree up floor space, consider makingmaximum use of the wall space.Pegboard and slowvall offergreater flexibility than fixed shelves.With some carefirl planning, you candouble or triple the capacity of apatch ofwall space. Hinged pegboardpanels, such as the unit above, let youutilize both sides of the pegboardwithout eating up much space. (Tofind out how to build the unitshown, call 800-347-5105 and askfor volume 5, issue 27 of ShopNotes.The price is $4.99 plus shipping.)overnight.You can stay ahead ofrust by polishingyour table saw jointer, andother tool sufaces at least a coupleof times a year. There are any numberofproducts that work from pastewax andWD40 to Boeshield orTopKote, which are specifically designedfor tool sudaces.I like to use a floor-type pastewax and rub it in with a Scotchbritepad - the gray rype available atautomotive parts stores.The abrasivepad helps cut rust and pitch depositsand the rubbing action helps removethe old wax and deposit new wax.Buff the wax once it dries to a dullfinish. dt takes a lot less time thanwaxing my car.)woRKBENCH tr MARCH I APRrL 2000


PROVIDE POWER FROMABOVE W|TH QUAD BoXESTo get electricity to the varrollspower tools in nry garage shop,I used to string out extension cordsacross the floor. But when you'rerunningS a table saw you don't wantto be tripping over a tangle ofcords.Unfortunately, all the outlets werelocated alonp5 ot're wall. So unless Irewired the garage, I needed anothersolution. The answer was to hangquad box extensiot-t cords frort-r theceiling over the grrage stalls (a6orc).Heary-dury ntbber-covered (Typ. S)l2-guge, thrte-wirc cord delivers thepower. A strain relief cord connectorfirm1y grips the cord where rt entersthe electrical box and keeps thewiring from puliing loose. You canfind the cord, connectors, plugs, andboxes at an electrical supply store orhave an electricin rig a couple ofquad boxes for you.The four outlets allow rne to plugin several machines. But since I can'tphysically operate urore than onetool at a time, I don't worry aboutoverloading the circuit.Hanging the cords overheadkeeps thenr fiom underfoot, and youshouldrr't have to continually swapthe extension cord frortr one tool toanother and blck. When itt not inuse, the box cru.t be pulled up rgainstthe ceiling with a lengtl.r of rope anda pulley. l\unthe rope :rlor-rg theceilir.rg and tie it off on the wall.TURN A SOTID.CORE DOOR INTO A BENCH'FOLDINGYOUR BENCH One rvay to deal with thisproblem is to molrnt a solid-coreI nx AGAn{sr rHE wALLf consrnvEs FtooR sPAcEdoor on hinges to the shop wall.It seerns theret never enough When you need the bench, itbench space, particularly duringthe assembly stage of a project.Yet, free-standing workbencheseat up a ton offloor space, particularlywhen you have to park acar in the middle of your shop.swings up and locks in place ot.rthe folding support wings. Withthe project complete, tuck awaythe wings under the bench and itfolds down flat against the wall,leaving rooln for vehicles or tools.I've bought alew solid-core doorswith nrinor dar.nage (attimes with hinges attached)in the "scratch and dent" sectionof the local home center. Ifthe door has already been drilledfor a lockset, simply rrountthehinges to that side and Ged cordsfrom power tools through the hole.2x4 mountinS platescrewed to wall studo-Q'(17+'x 28" x 80"in to allow the benchto fold down.l-edger-281t IIJ,!-!Vr wing ,//(l l|lY44woRKIJENCH ! MAI{CH IAl'}l{lL l()(lt)


aiEPoxY.coAT YouR sHoPXrloon FoR EASTER crEANrNcYShopdust reallv sticks to anLrntreated concrete floor. Concretealso holds moisture whether itcomes up from the ground or dripsoff the c:rr.To fight dirt and nroisture. cortyour shop floor withan epoxTpaint.There are a nut-uber of waterborneepoxy floor finishes on thenrarket, such ls ArurorSeal bySher.win-Williams (800-47 4-3794)or EpoxyShield by Epoxi-Tech(ilrx)-696-328r).No nratter what finish yotlchoose, the key to getting the paintto stick is tl-roroughly cleaning thefloor. Citrus-based degreasers willcut nlost of the grinre, but you mayneed to have the floor professionallyacid etched or shot blasted to givethe paint a clean suface with whichto bond.To create a quick,clean flnishingarea, close off asmall portlon ofyour shop wlth plastlc sheeting held inplace againsthecelllng wlth P\tctensloning poles.PVC PARTITION POLESi GRAB AIRBORT{E DUST WtrH$ n FURNAcE FTLTERAND A FANlVNo rrr.rrter wh.rt yorr try. you'llruever elinrinrte all the sawdust fromrr shop. Helels ir sirnple, inexpensivewiry to at least breathe a little easierand keep dust offthe car.Mounta furnace filter to theintake side of a box-type windowfan (/rcltrr). Attaching the filter withcluct trpe se:rls the area around theperinreter of the filter ar-rd forces thelan to draw air through the filter.This setup conres in handy priorto :rpplying finish because the filtercaptures sonre of the fine, airbornedust particles that can settle ontothe wet finish. Periodically clean thefilter to avoid overheatine the fan...AN INSTANTT I ",GREA|TE TFINISHING ROOMllf No one has room toset up a dedicated finishing areain a garage shop. So do whatprofessional contractors do -use plastic sheeting and springloadedpoles to creatc an instant,dust-free finishing area.Each pole shown here consistsof two pieces of PVC pipe and a32" length of bungee cord. Cutthe 1.'/t" I.D. outer pipe 84" longand the t/u" I.D. inner pipe 48"long. After cutting one hook offthe bungee cord, thread that endof the cord through a hole drillednear the top of the outer pole.Then knot that end of the cordand feed the other end (with thehook) down into the outer pipe.So the pole can grip the ceiling,make a simple wooden padto fit on the top end of the innerpole.To increase the pole's height(from 7'/.-fr. up to lOr/.-ft.) orboost the tension, pull some ofthe cord out and tie it in a loop.PARTITION POIE ASSEMBTYDrill 1" holeand sandto fit pipewoRKBENcH n MAr{cH IAPRIL 2000 45


hances are good you own ajigsaw.And I'll bet you use itfor simple jobs like cuttingcurves or making Pocket cuts. Therest of the time, it sits on the shelf.M"yb. that's why so many PeoPlemake do with an inexpensive orolder saw, even though it vibrates, andwon't always make clean cuts. But ifthat old dust-covered version workswhen needed, why spend more?That! what I wondered as I consideredtrading up to one of todayihigher-end saws withGatures liketoolless blade changing, variablespeed, and orbital action. But arethese saws really more useful thanlesser versions? Or will they stillspend most of their time on the shelfrTo find out, I went to local tooltoolless blade changing is important.First, jigsaw blades get dull.That'swhy they're disposable. And goodluck getting a straight, smooth cutwith a dull one. Plus, there's a bladefor most any material and application.If theyie easy to change, you'relikely to switch blades more often.Power: Motors in these jigsawsrange from 4.5- to 6.2-amps whichis a big step up from cheaper saws'3- to 4-arnp motors. That keepsthese six cutting in situations thatwould likely stall a lesser saw.Variable speed: Varying the cuttingspeed - measured in strokesper minute (rp-) - fine-tunes theTESTS AT A GLANCEEvaluating peffomance took a lot oftests. We timed blade changes,tried the adiustments, and evahuated the saw's controls. Then wemade a Yariety of cuts in lumber'plywood, melamine, and even metal.Using ldentical Lenox blades helpedlevel the playing field.Blade changing: The toollessy*tems on these saws beat using awrench any day. But some ate molecumbelsome than necessary.Power: These saws ate all power'ful enough to handle thick stock ortough matedals. But one saw didsuffer a lack of low speed power.dealers and home centers and boughtsix popular jigsaws priced between saw to the material. Combine this$140 and $165 - one each from with the right blade, and workingBosch, Craftsman, DeWalt, Makita, with different materials is a breeze.Milwaukee, and Porter-Cable. Then Orbital cutting: Using theI tested them to see how the sawsperform and how they compare.orbital cutting feature allows evenmore control.Turning a dial changesthe path the blade follows (seeWHAT VOU GE] FOR YOUR MONEY Orbital Cutting below), making theJust looking at the features saw cut more aggressivelY as themay be enough to convince you amount of orbit increases.these jigsaws are superior to lesserversions. But features alone won'tmake these saws better.They have tooffer real benefits.Toolless blade change: This mayHandle sryle: Bosch, DeWalt, andMilwaukee each offer a version ofthesaws I tested, but with a barrel-srylegrip. I stuck with the more corunontop-handle models for testing.not seem like a big deal, but I thinkORBITAL CUTTINGFor a more aggresslve cut,these saws all offet oditalcutting actlon.When set on zero orbit, theblade slmply movestlaightup and down. ln orbitalmode, tension on a rollerbehind the blade relaxesdudng the downstroke. Thisallows the blade to dtopback, clearing chips. 0n theupstroke, the blade movesforward in a scooping motion,WHAT rT AtL MEANSSo are these jigsaws more useful, andmore likely to get used, than lesserversions? In a word, yes.Each of these saws is great at whata traditional jigsaw is good for. Plusthey'll do a lot more. In fact, any ofthem can substitute for a portable circularsaw or even a band saw in manysituations. (See Easy-to-Build JigsawThble on page 51 for another way toget more from a jigsaw.)And now for the big question:Among six very good jigsaws. is oneclearly the best? Read on to find out.The photo below shows four2O-second timed cuts. Themore aggresslve orbital settlngscleady cut fadher.woRKBENCH ! MARCH I APRIL 2OOO 47


Specifications:Amperage: 5.7Speed (SPM) 450-3,100Blades: T*hankBlade Change: ToollessShoe Adjust: Hex WrenchPrice: $160You should change blades oftenwith a jigsaw, and the Milwaukeemakes it simple. Just slide over thespring-ioaded lever (left), pull outthe blade, stick a new one in, andrelease the lever. In tests this tookfour seconds. More importantly,Viftues: Simplest blade change;low vibration; good power.Vices: Stamped-steel shoe; acceptsonly T-shank blades,Verdict: For the best overall package,this saw wins hands down. Plusit's smooth, powerful, and quiet.though, it was foolproof. The bladeslips in and out with ease.Quick blade changes are great,but a good jigsaw needs more. The6266 delivers with vibration-freepower at all speeds, and well-placedcontrols that operate easily. And thissaw tracks like a prison hound.If you're looking for faults,they're pretty minor. The bladeguard does obscure the cut line, butnot too badly. Also, the 6266 onlyaccepts T-shank blades, not universalblades, and it's tough to fit the sawin its case with a blade installed.Pick a speed, pull the trigger, andthe DW321 cuts with smooth,unyielding power. Plus it follows astraight or curved line with ease.You'll never worry about locatinga wrench, either, since this sawthe blade or adjusting the shoe.Thetwist-sryle blade release isn't as simpleto use as the Milwaukee's, butgrips the blade firmly and holdsit straight.A simple lever locks or releases thedoesn't require one for changing shoe (/el). It works well, but canvibrate loose if not firmly engaged.Specifications:Amperage: 5.8ViftueS: Very powerful, completelytoolless, accepts all blades.And the saw olfers an adjustabledust blower to keep the cut lineSpeed (SPM) 500-3,100 Vices: Heavierthan most; blade clear. A variable trigger allowsBlades: Univ./Tshankreleaseawkward; touchy trigger lock. changing speed in mid-cut, too.Blade Ghange: ToollessShoe Adjust: ToollessVerdict: This saw cuts with oowerand precision. But it suffers from aIf totally toolless operation andraw power are important to you, thenPrice: $165 few minor quirks in the controls. vou mav favor the DeWalt.Specifications:Amperage: 5.0Speed (SPM) 500-3,100Blades: TchankBlade Change: ToollessShoe Adjust: Hex WrenchPrice: s160Smoothness may rank atop your wishlist. If so, take a look at the Bosch. Itsvibration is always low. Even the controls,like the orbital action and dustblower switches (lgf),are smooth.The main problem with this sawis the blade changing mechanism.Virtues: Solid performance; dustblower; variable speed triglger.Vices: No way to lock blade straight;accepts T-shank blades only.Vetdict offers good performanceand smoothness, but needsome wayto hold blade accurately straight.The system is toolless, and fairlyeasy to use once mastered. Butthere's no sure-fire way to lock theblade in straight.You have to eyeballit. In freehand cuts this is no bigdeal. But when the saw is used withan edge guide or trammel, there canbe trouble with tracking.The 1587 accepts only T:shankblades, not the universal sryle. Butthis is no surprise, since Bosch pioneeredthe T-shank sryle.Adjusting the shoe on this sawdoes require a wrench, but like mostothers. the wrench stores on-board.48woRKBENcH ! MARcH I APRrL 2000


Porter-Cable's 9543 was introducedto the market after the other sawshere, so its designers had a chance toincorporate the competition's bestfeatures. It has toolless blade changing(right) and shoe adjustment, andthe only shoe with stops at anglesother than 0o and 45o.Plus, this saw has the highestampmotor of any saw in the test.And that powerful motor is usefulfor driving the blade with ease atany chosen speed.Once you've got a blade in placein the 9543, it stays put well, and staysstraight. What's tough is getting ablade in or out. The spring-loadedtabs (right) are small and have a strongspring, so you really have to squeeze.Combine this with a tight openingfor the blade, and the process seemstougher than necessary.Virtues: Completely toolless; bevelstops on shoe; comfortable handle.Vices: Bladechangng mechanismpicky; more vibration than expected.Verdict: A well thought-out saw,but needs improvements to theblade changing system.Specifications:Amperage: 6.0Speed (SPM) 500-3,000Blades: Unlv./TshankBlade Change: ToollessShoe Adjust: IoollessPdce: s160In most tests, the Makita 43047performed well. In fact, the shoeadjustment may be the best in thebunch, with a simple lever thatreleases and locks it in place (right).Of all the twist-sryle blade releases,this one is easiesto use, too. Andthe saw grips T:shank or universalblades with equal ease.The Makita Gll off the others'pace, though, with the speed set atless than about 60%. When ripping2x Douglas fir at half speed, a testconducted with each saw, theMakita stalled repeatedly.With a 5.5-amp motor (fourthmost powerful in the group) thistendency to stall seems odd. Keepthe speed wound up, though, andthe 4304T is a great performer.Also, the blade guard does make itdifficult to see the blade and cut line.VirtueS: Great blade change andshoe adjustment; good feel; smooth.ViCeS: Power drops way off at lowerspeeds, causing some stalling.Verdict The adjustments are firstrate,and the saw is very compact, butit needs more low-speed power.Specifications:Amperage: 5.5Speed (SPM) 50G3,000Blades: Unlv./T+hankBlade Change: ToollessShoe Adlust: ToollessPrice: s160The Craftsman 27251 is a goodbasic saw, but lacks features foundon the others. It's the only onewithout toolless blade changing, ithas the least-powerful motor, and itdoesn't come with a case like therest of the saws tested.The trade-offfor this lack of featuresis a price that's at least 10%lower than the other five saws. Somestores may discount the price evenfurther. So if the other prices seemtoo steep, but you want a variablespeed,orbital action saw, check outthe Craftsman.Requiring hex wrenches for theblade and shoe isn't awful, but thissaw uses a di{ferent size wrench foreach. On the plus side, the bevelscale is adjustable (rrglrr).The 27251 is an adequate saw, butisnt in the same league as the others.Virtues: Aggressive orbital action;lowest price in test; light weight,Vices: Takes two hex wrenches;vague speed adjustment; cheaper feel.Verdict: This is a capabte saw withadequate power, but lacks the featuresand refinement ofthe others.Specifications:Amperage: 4.5Speed (SPM) 0-3,100Blades: Univ./T-shankBlade Ghange: Hex WrenchShoe Adjust: Hex WrenchPrice: $140woRKBENcH tr MARCH I APRIL 2OOO 49


The Final CutBy now you've probably read theat-a-glance comparisons on pages48 and 49. So what more can I say?For starters. these six jigsaws aremuch better than older or inexpensivemodels. And any of themwill exceed your expectations.Id also venture that not one ofthese jigsaws will spend much timeon the shelf, thanks to their mulriplepersonalities. In orbital mode they'llpower through thick stock in ahurry. But they'll also hug a line andcut smooth in non-orbital mode.Blade deflection - a problemon saws I was used to- is minimalwith all six jigsaws. Even whenmaking scroll cuts in thick stock,square cuts require just a steadyhand, and a zero-orbit setting.But just saying "they're allgood" isn't good enough. Theyshould be good at these prices. Sowhat's the bottom line?RECOMMEl{DATIOI{SIn this field of six jigsaws, theMilwaukee 6266-21 rated bestoverall. The quick, simple bladechanging system helped this sawwin. But it also performed well inall tests, and did so without excessnoise or vibration.Second place goes to DeWalttDW32I.It also performs well, butlacks the slick blade changing setup.And the DeWalt is larger, making itless maneuverable in close quarters.The Bosch 1587AVS runs aclose third. And soon, Bosch willdebut a blade changing system thatmay rival Milwaukee's.Fourth and fifth place go tothe Porter-Cable and Makitarespectively. Each saw was helddown by a single shortcoming.Porter-Cable's was the clunkyblade changing system.The Makitalacked low-speed power.That leaves the Craftsman insixth place. It works fine, but needsmore features to compete.And that's the real bottom line.In a league this tough, success takesmore than a couple good features. Ittakes the whole package.T[SOUND OFF ONTINENow you know what we think about logging on to the lool Reviews pagethese jigsaws. Next it's your turn. at www.WorkbenchMagazlne.com.Do you agree with our concluslons, We'll post your responses, and we'llor has your expedence with these encourage manufacturerstotools been dlfferent? Letting usknow is easy.share theirYou can share your point of view thoughts on thewith us and your fellow readers by tools and tests.POINTS 0F VIEW: Opinions from other tool usersAll six jigsaws have features I like. Butto me, the besrjigsaw would combinethe greatest attributes of each sawSince I cant have that I'll oick fromthe saws that really exist.I like the Milwaukee for its sweetblade change system and wellplacedcontrols.And itt smooth.My second place saw is theMakita. I like it's compactness andadjustments.Yes, it has less power, butthere's plenty for homeowner use.The DeWalt and Bosch get thirdand fourth place, respecrively.Kevin BoyleWorkbench Sr. Proiect DesignerIt might be hard to pick a clear winnerif the Milwaukeet blade changingsystem wasn't so good. Plus, thesaw is well-balanced and quiet.In second place, the DeWalt andBosch tie. Changing their blades ismore awkward. The systems aren'tbad. theyjust aren't as convenient asthe Milwaukee's simple lever. Boththe Bosch and DeWalt are mucheasier than changing blades in thePorter-Cable, though.The Makita comes in third, but itreally needs more low-speed power.Kerry CibsonWorkbench As sociate EditorI also like the Milwaukee best. It runsvery smooth, and the blade change isslick. Id like to see a toolless systemfor the shoe, but this isnt as big adeal, since I don't make bevel cutswith a jigsaw that often.Second place was a tie betweenthe DeWalt and the Makita. Bothrun very smooth and have toollessadjustments that work well. If theMakitab power was ever a problem,I d just keep it cranked to full speed.If I have to choose a third placesaw, itd be the Bosch.Steue JohnsonWorkbench Shoo Craftsman50woRKBENcH tr MARCH I APRrL 2000


Easy-Tio-Build Jigsaw TableMount a ji,qsaut under tlistahle, and it'll work like ascroll saut or band sau,.T'lrcre'scuen atl I I i f ,utaoc .guflro-lit' sd[cty.Tl'ris t:rble irrcr-elrses thc' versutilitvoi.rrrv jiqs:rw lry h'rrvirrr:both lrrrncls fl-ee tc'r controlthe rvorkpiece.Tlre table is sinrple tobuild.:rncl setting up or rcnroving thesllw ls:l stltP.BUITDING THE TABLETb nuke the tnble, start by cutting nt()p. (w() sidt' pltrrt'ls.lrttl lt plif ivlcnrssbrrcc'sto size ((,irnrr ny V'iuO.Blade Slot: Tir cr.rt l slot fbr thebhdc, c'lrill :i scrics of overlapping'/ru"-dia.holes centered on thc widthof the top (Iriq. 1).Then cleln up tl.rcslot with r fine-tooth jigsrw bhcle.Routing a Recess: Thc' jignrwnlolrnts in n rccess irr tl-re top (/i.A /).Holcl tl're saw on the r.rnclersicle of tl-retlrblc top, lucl trlrce lronnd tl-re sl-roe.Next, rout I rtcess sliuhtly lareerw4r iIhreaded ----\linsert gthnn the jigsawls shoe, mcl just a bitshrllower (l-i.q. la) This wly, the jigsrlwcan be secrrrecl with four turnbuttous tttlde from scrap hardwood.Thrulb scrcws :rnd threaded insertshold the turn buttons tight (Fiq. 1a).Blade Guard: A sinrple guardcovers the exposcd teeth ofthe nrovingblade (|iq. 2).The guard is a pieceof scr-ap 2x4 witl-r an arllr nrade of/^.1.19"hardboard or acrylic plastic. Glue in a35mn.r film canister or a pill bottle fora sirrrple blade cover (Fig 2a).Using the table: Use fine-toothblades to keep the workpiece frornhopping around. And cut with theworkpiece face up to nrinirnizechioout on the fir.rished side. TMN0IE: All casepleces cut fiom3Z'rthbk plywood.-t141#8xVz" Fh wooda-.Q'-Saw base- recess -V2" #8xlVa,"Fh.1lll[l,../0" 1__U"_____]__3"W()l(KBt\( H ! MAI{(:H I Al, l(ll l{ilr{}51


Arts & Crafts l*anternAttach this stylish redwood and copper lantern next to your front door or hang it from asimple decorative lamp post. Either way, it\ sure to garner glowing praise.s one friend pointed out,this lamp looks a lot like ahouse. I take that as a complimentsince the inspiration came&om the earh 1900s Prairie Swlearchitecture of Frank Lloyd Wright.But it's the details - the coppertop, the stained glass "windows," andthe unique hanging system - thatgive this lamp its distinctive Arts andCrafm look. Each of these deails alsoprovides a unique opportuniry towork with some different materials.Thke the copper top for example.If you've never worked with thincopper foil, you'll find that it's easyto cut with a pair of household scissors.And you wont have to do anysoldering to build this lantern.The hanging system is madefrom soft copper tubing available atany home center or hardware store.The tubing already comes coiled ina curved roll. and the end can beflattened easily with a viseor hammer. Thena hook canbe curled onit to hang thelantern. Finally, you can pick up theglass at a stained glass store or atsome hobby.shops.BUITTTYMI REDWOODI built this lantern from redwood,butanother good choice for an outdoorproject like this would be cedar.No matter what wood youchoose, one of the first steps is toplane or resaw some stock for theframes of the lantern base (Fig. 1).Toresaw the stock safely, I made a pushblock and a"zero clearance" insert(see page 72).Once the saw is set up for safecutting, you're ready to resaw thestock. (Turn the page to find thesizes ofall the pieces and the specialprocess I used to cut them.)woRKBENCH ! MARCH I APRIL 2OOO


LANTERN ASSEMBTY VIEWOVERALL SIZE: 11"W x 11"D x 11"HMountingarms7.,5" x 5uEyeboltFenderwasherCopper pipe capRoof trimsttipMountingblockSide stileNOTE: To preventexcessive heat buildup,use a 60-watt bulbor smaller.#6 x3/+"Brass screw GlasstopWhen resawing, position the fence forthe final thickness you want l3la"1. Usea featherboard to hold the stock and azero clearance inse*.MATERIATS IISTLANTERN: (FOR ONE LAI\4P)PosTi (FoR oNE PoST)A (8) Side Stiles s1t" vzla" x7" M (2) Post Front/Back 314" x31/2" x72"B (8) Top Rails 3lB', x112,,x61f2'' N (2) Post Sides 214'x2,,xT2',C (4) Bottom Rails 3l|t x3li' x6l2'' 0 (1) Post Skirt 3lq" x5" x71lz"D (4) Center Stiles %" xtl2" x2y2"E (4) Glass Stops 3/4" xy2" x53ll'F (4) Glass Panels 1ls'x55ls" P (1) Cap** l1/2" x63li' x63li'x614" Q (1) Cap BaseG (1) Subtop 112'%"x5"x5"x53/4' x53/4'' R (1) Cap Cleat r1r,,x2" x2"H (1) Roof+ )t/a" xI01/2" x70r/2"S (4) Cap Trim Strips318,x1/i'x5"| (1) l\4ounting Block trf2" x3" x51f2"J (1) l\4ounting Arm 1/2" 0.D. Soft CopperTubing, 26f2" long*Roof is glued up in three layers**Post cap is glued up in two layers and covered with copperK (4) Copper Foil+*+ 5z1o" x1l",3Ggauge***Availableat some hobby shops; you can als order aL (4) RoofTrim Strips 3/s" v1f4" vl1f2" 12"x36" roll from St. Louis Crafts, Inc, at (800) 841-7631.HARDWARE: (FOR ONE LAMP AND POSD(1) 5/ro" x 5" Eyeboltwith nut(1) 5/ro" x 2f2" Screw eye(2) 5/ro" Fender washers(2) 3/a copper pipe caps(1) 5/ro" Flat washer(8)#6 x 3/a" brasscrews(4)#8 x 21/2" Fh exterior woodscrews(8)#8 x 1%" Fh exterior woodscrews(1) Porcelain lampholder that fits311q" or 4" outlet box(60\#17 x3/ i' copper nailsW(rl{.KIJFNCH ! MAR( H l Al,Rll lfr l,(r 53


FRAME BTANKS (to make one tantern)stiles from 3 of the blanks.The remaining blank willbe recut (see N0TE belowl.N0TE: The fourth SideStile Blank is cut offshort at the end of thedado and used to make' 4 center stiles.> ToP RA|L BLANKS (2)Cutadadoand2 r(lVr"rabbets in eachblank.- BoTToM RA|L BLANKS (2)Cut 2 rabbets in f/+"1each blank.Then rip 2 "-bottom railsfrom each blank.MAGHINING BLANKSNext, install a r/:" dado blade ir.rTo sinrplify construction, I desisned the tlblc srrw rnd. using the rrritcr'each wall of the lantern as a fraure. gar.rge with an ar-rxiliary woodThe six pieces in elch franre lreheld together with hrlf:lap joints,which yotr can cllt on your tablesaw with a dado blade.Because the joinely is identicalextension, cnt sample half-laps intl-re test pieces.Once the blade heisht arrd fencesetting are perfect, cut a dldo inerch of the side stile blanks (Fiq. 2).in all the franre pieces - rrd the Ther-r reset the fbnce and cut a sinrilarsizes ofthe pieces are rather snrall dado in the top rail blanks.I decided to nrachine extra-widestock. (This kind of earrr.l-cutrirrgoperation incre:rse safety lnd saves Ilot of tinre.)Stlrr by cuttinrr cight bl;rrrksfioln the 3"-wide stock that youresawed (or phned) down to 3/s"thtck (Franrc tslanks). While you'renrakir-rg blanks, cut sollte extranraterirl to Llse for testir-re the halflapsetups.CUTTING RABBETSAll of tl.re blanks require rirbbetscnt in the ends to fornr the halflaps. To cut these rlbbets, install Isacrificial face on tl-re t;rble saw's ripfer-rce lnd butt the fer-rce asainsr theblade. Then rabbet botl.r ends of a//the blnks (trle. J).MITERING SLEDNote a couple things here:Some of the rabbets are only l/2"wide while others are'1/.1" wide (.rcc,l/louc). So you'll have to nrrke asccond p:rss for the '"vicler rlbbets.Anc.l the rabbets in the top rlilbllr-rks :rre cut in the face oppositethe dado.RIPPING FRAME PIECESOnce you're done cuttinq tl-re halfl:rps,replace thc dado blade with lstandard saw bl:rde and rip the railsand stiles fionr tl.re blanks (Fiq. 4).Set aside one side stile bllnk forrtow.Yclu'll lectrt it irr a rrriuutc.lJe sure to rlse r pr.rsl-r block soyon can keep your hands well awayfi'onr tl.re blade while ripping theseThis jig will help you get acculate Gut safely each time. The critical step is t0 makesure the inside of the sled base is cut to the exact same lengfth as the top and bottomraifs (61/2"1. This will ensureach frame is mitered to the same finished size.Make sure the assemblies are square before leavingthem to dry. Sandwich the glued-up frames betweenwax paper and two pieces of plywood clampedtogether while the glue dries.IlVz".L54woRKIJENCH ! MARCH IAPI\rL 2000


Rlp fenceUsing the fenceas a stop, cut thefor the stiles and top rails.Cut rabbets inthe ends of all thevary in width.Holding a push block that can travelthrcugh the blade againsthe fence,rip the rails and stiles from the rabbetedand dadoed blanks.narrow pieces. (l like to sneak up onthe cuts until they just fit into theirnratcl.rins dadoes and rabbets.)The last pieces you need to makeare the center stiles. They're prettysimple, but still take a few steps.You'll actually begin with thatfourth side stile blank you put aside.First set the fence so the blade linesr.rp with the bottonr edge of thedado in tl.ris blank.Then crosscutheblank, leaving the entire dado.'What renrains is a 2t/2"-longcenter stile blank (see Frame Blanks).Next, rip four l/:"-wide center stilesfrom this new blank.STITE AND RAIL ASSEMBLYThe next step is to form the actualwalls of the lantern. Don't do anygluing until you've dry fit eachassembly. If the machine setups wereaccurate, the half-lap joints will betight and the frames square. Afterfine tuning any pieces that need it,glue the stiles and rails together tomake four fiames.You'll want to clar.up each frameto hold the joint sufaces snug whilethe giue dries.A good way to do thisis by sandwiching a frame betweentwo pieces of plywood. lle sure toLlse wax paper in case of gluesqueeze-out (Plg.lMITERING THE FRAMESMitering is a pretty simple process.Ilut when working with such sr.nallfranes, accuracy becomes essential.To get precise cuts on each frame, Ibuilt a sled that made the procedureeasy and safe (Miterirry Slctfi.Don't rush into cutting yourassembled frames. First tilt the bladeprecisely to 45o, then make cuts in acouple of scrap pieces. Once youcan set the scrap pieces together toform a 90o angle, go ahead andrniter the frames (Frg. 6).GET GOING WITH THE GLUEAfter you've mitered the edges,thereh a neat trick for gluing thenrinto a "box." First lay down threestrips of masking tape on a flat surfacewith the sticky side up.tpe theends to hold the strips in place.Then butt the frames togetheron top of the tape strips with themiters facing ry (Fig. f. Next,spread glue in all the rniter joints.Finally stand the pieces up to forma box and finish taping (Fig.7a).With the insideface up, cut completelypast the corneion both edges of each frame.Line up the frames with the miterc facing up andthe ends flush. The tops should be alignedtogethen After gluing the miter joints, stand theassembly up and finish taping to fonn a box.Tape holdswoRKBENcH tr MAI{cH IAPRrL 200t) 55


SUBTOPLAN VIEWSGut glass stopsfrom a 3"-widethe glass panels, then rip to width.Use a r/+" dadoblade to cut shalunderneathside of the subtop.3/+" Wire holebGLAS STOP PLAN VIEWS/---_-_l,1/+" ICUT A SUE]OP'With the basic box done, you canshift gears to the subtop and ehssstops.To nuke the subtop, first cut a3" x 1.2 piece fronr 'rl+" stock.Thenresaw (or plane) it to l/:" thick.Next, crosscut this piecc in l.ralfand edse glue the hrlves tosether.Once tl-re glue sets, trinr tl-re subtop tofit tighdy into the top of the lanternbox. but dorr't f,rsterr it irr pl:rcc yct.MA]G THE GI.ASSTOPSThe gl:rss stops :lrc .rrrothel irrstarrcewl-ren I pr-eferred to machine thestock before cuttillq it into sr-nallerpieces. Start with a 3" x 12" bhnk ofl/+" stock. After cLlttin!5 this bl:urk tosize, the next step is to cut rlbbetsalor.rs two edges of tl-re blank torccept the elass pancls (Fig. 8 andG/rr-s.r Snrp l)lart Vinn).To set up thesaw to cut these rlbbets, you'll Ireedto llreasure tl're thickness of yourglass (see ()ldss L4otrrttitr,q Ddail onprge 5ft).Note: While tlre dado blade isset up, also cut r shallow rabbctlound the bottonr of the subtop(1rr.g. 9 rrrd Srrbtop Plntr 41'11,.s). Thisrlbbet also :lccepts tl-re qhss panels.Oncc rrll the labbcts arc cllt,lcplacc thc chdo bl:rdc with a standrrclbhde rncl rip 3/-r"-wide stnpsofftlie glass stop bllnk.Tl-re stops are nritered to flt inthe bottonr of the lantern.To deternrinetheir lcngth, nrelsurc'theinside of the box aud tlren cut '15"nriters rt botl'r ends of each stop.Sr]eak up oD thc'cuts Llntil the stopsjust fit tl're opcnine.GOMPTETE THE SUBTOPGetting back to the subtop, drawlines fi'onr col-ner to corner to markthc cerrter'.Tlrcn drill :r r/a"-dia. holeconrpletely through the subtop forthe electric;rl cord to pass through.Now the subtop cur be insertedinto the lantern box (rabbet down):rnd nailed in place. You need towatch the placement of tl-re naiis. Toavoid crackinq tl.re stock, first drilltwo nail holes through the top rail ofelch fi-anre I/s" frorr.r the top edge.Then tap in r/.1"-lonu copper nails.TOPPING IT OFFThe roof is one of the n-rost appe:rlir.rqaspects of this lar.r.rp. Ar.rd it alsoscfvc\ il vcry pt'actical function -l-riding the ugly wirir-rg. But therewas a challenge' l-rere.,/>.Score cofper,then cut wlth,sclsgo|r.l\\'--/Non-skid mat Fold into hole.3/15" from edge ofcopper to form a lip.4/----\ ,*17 X3/4t


N0TE: Tape workpiece to jig.This simple jig nade flom 3/+" plywoodconsists of a base, a face piece, and atriangular-shaped brace all screwedtogether. D,ouble-sided carpet tape canbe used to holdeach layer to thejig while you cut 22"bevels on the edges.After giluing the thrce ruof piecestogether and sanding flat spots for thetrim, cut a 3/re" edge all aruund thebottom for nailing the copper.Each side of the full pyramidshapedroof was too tall to cut onthe table saw. Nevertheless, I did endup using the table saw but to cutthree shorter beveled pieces.Then Iglued these shorter pieces together.The layers are cut flrorn l/.1"-thick stock. To make them, start bycutting the larger one I I 'rlx" square,the nriddle one 73/q" square, andthe snrallest one 4" square. Since theroofangle is 22o, the pieces have tobe stood or.r edge for beveling. Idesigned a simple jig to safely andaccurately rnake the cuts (F(. /0).Once the layers are all beveled,glue them together to form a pyramidshape. After the glue dries, sanda 3/s"-wide flat spot along the ridgesfor trim strips that will be addedlater. Then cut a 3/K," flat edge allaround the lower edge of the rooffor nailing the copper ttin (Fig. 11).CREATING HARDWARE SPACEBefore applying the copper andtrim strips to the roof, you need tocreate space for the wiring and thehardware.Drilling from the bottom of theroof, make a small 3/a"-deep ofi3ethole to feed the wiring and then alarger 3/s"-deep hole where the nutand washer will fit (Fig. 12 andWiring thc Lamp on page 58). Finishby drilling a 5/s" hole completelythrough the roof for an eyebolt tohang up the lantern.TRIMMING THE TOPA posterboard template helps whenlaying out the copper triangle roofpieces (Frg. 13) . After cutting the triangles,spray adhesive to one sideand attach the pieces to the roof.Once the copper pieces are inplace, you can trim and fold anysharp points around the edges, andtuck any excess near the roof peakinto the wire hole. Finally, fold thecopper along the bottom edge ofthe roof and nail it in place (Fig. 14) .The last parts on the roof you'llneed to make are the rounded-overtrim strips, which have beveledends. Once again, I started with awider, 3/r"-thick blank about 16"long to make these pieces.First, round over all four edges ofthe stock by hand or with a routertable (F(. 1-!. Next, rip a strip offeach side of the blank (Fig. lQ.Aftercutting four trim pieces 71/2" long,shape 22o bevels on all the ends.Then nail the trim in place withcopper nails. Be sure to leave roomfor a3/+" pipe cap (seeWiringthe Lamp on page 58)..1\'-Use a rcuter tableon all bur edgps of apiece of 3/e"-thick stock0nce the rcundoverc are done, set thefence and rip away a %" strip fiomthe blank. Resethe fence and rip asecond strip from the other edge.woRKBENcH tr MAI\cH I APRrL 2000


GLASS MOUNTING DE]AIICut (4) glasspanels 57s" x 67e"./ Yise/,..>'t/lwith ePoxY, |z-1/21x21/2nblock ll li i^l 3/4" holesAttach glass stopswith #6 x 3/a"brass screws,Wirh the hrrrp base rndroof completed, the next step is towire the lanrp, ir-rsert the glass panels,and attach the fixtr.rre (see l,ZrirlgTlrc Lamp below). Once these thingsare done, you can get started on thenroLrnting block and amr.ATTACHING YOUR LAMPl3uilding the r.nounting block andarm is pretty simple. Start by cuttinga piece of soft copper tubing tolengrh (261/2"). Use a piece of strinefor measurinq. Usirtg a vise, or haurmerand a flat surface. smash downWIRING THE LAMP-1-f votr tren't col)lfortrble workingwith electriciry. I suggcstIIyou build the llrrtern base lrrdhave a qualified electrician install thefixture and wiring.Wiring is best done in the followingsequence:1. Drill holes in a pipe cap. Runwiring through the cap.2. Thread wiring through theopening in the lar-rtern roof.3. Cut an eyebolt approx. 4t/2",then attach hardware to the roof.4. Screw the subtop to the roof.5.Attach wires to the fixture.6. Screw fixture in place.After the wiring is done, you caninstall the glass panels and glass stops(Class Mounting Detail).H,yeasilyin a vise. Thehook for hanging can bdformed with a needle-nose pliers.4t/." of one end ofthe tube.Thencurl the flzrttened end to create aI34"-dix. hook for hanging the larnp(pr,c,, tD Because the tubing conresalready coiled, fornring the arm'sfinal radius isn't difiiicult.Finish the rrountingarnr bydrillins a 3/s" hole in the underneathside of the tube risht abovethe sr.nashed end to feed the wiring.Now yorr cilll turn your lttentiorr tothe nror,rnting block.llegin by cutting a piecc of1llr"-thick stock to 3" x 5ll2". Nextdrili two l.roles in the top and one inN0TE: Connectground wireto eyeboltand groundon fixture.5/ro" x 5" Eyebolt(painted black)5/0" Fender washer(painted%" Copper pipe capExterior gradesilicone15-ampWith the wiring pulled thrcugh themounting block, apply a small amountof epoxy to the mounting arm andinsert it into the top hole until flush.the back of the nronnting block torccept the copper nrountill!! arnland the wiring (Fig 18) Chrnrferinethe fi'orrt cdges of thc rttorrrttirtqblock adds a finished look.After stringing the wire thror"rghthe copper tube and out the backsideof the mounting block, simplyinsert the mounting arm into thetop of the block so it rests on theledge created by overlapping holes.Althougl-r the lantern looks greatby itself next to a doorway, you maywant to hang it frorn a decorativellnrp post. 'llllDrill %0" hole intop of pipe cap for eyebolt.Drill 7s" hole inpipe cap for wire,#8x11/l'exteilolwoodscrews58wOI{KI]ENC]H tr MARCH API{IL 2000


Plarrt a Decorative Posthe Arts and Crafts lanternlooks stunning all alone. Buthang a couple on a matchirglamp post, andyou'll be amazed athow well they complementeach other.The lamp post ismade from the samematerial and designedin a similar sryle as thelantern itself. I built thepost from lx4 redwoodand assembled it withsimple butt joints. Amitered skirt and coppercap give the post aspecial touch.Start by ripping andgluing 3/a"-thick piecesofstock to create a 31/2" \ 31/2" x72" post. Next, rnake a 5" x 71/2"base. or skirt. to fit around the bottomof the post. A band clampcomes in handy when gluing theskirt. Chamfering the top edges andmitering the corners to 45o adds afinished look and blends nicely withthe lamp design.If the post cap looks familiar, itshould. It's designed much like theroof on the lantern. But this timePOST ANGHORINGPlumb uplamp poststart with only rwo square blanks -71/2" and 4r - aqd bevel all fouredges of each. After gluing the twolayers together, sand flatspots along the ridgesfor the trim.Then cut a3/rct' flat edge aroundthe bottom of the cap(see Cap Details).Finally, cut andattach the copperand trim pieces tothe cap. And like thelantern, the post capalso has an eyeboltthreaded through acopper pipe cap.Unlike the lanternroof, the post cap has achamfered base. Youcan cut it to size next. Chamfer thebottom edges, beginning with theends. Then glue it centered on theunderneath side of the cap. A cleatfits inside the opening in the postand is screwed in place to completethe cap (see Cap Detaik).Finish by drilling a 3/8" hole inthe post to feed the wiring. Afterscrewing a mounting block in place,you're ready to anchor your post foreveryone to enjoy. tEBefore digging, check the wiring codesin your arca. You will prcbably have torun the cable undergruund in conduit.Here's one way to anchor your post:Dig a 2- to 3-ft. deep hole aboril a footwide. Then get a 5-ft. long galvanizedpipe that iust fits inside the opening ofyour lamp post, and drill a hole in itlarge enough to accept the conduit.Fill the post hole with concrete andbury the metal post. Slip your lamppost overthe metal post a few inchesinto the concrute. Finally check thatthe lamp post is plumb.POST AiSEMBLY VIEVTICap base374ux8"x5"Post fiont3/4,' a!1/2,' x72',Post sklrt3/t" x5" xlVz"CAP DE]AIITSgalvanlzed plpe2"dla.3/4"L-z"J rl^,,1/r" ChamlerwoRKBENCH D MARCH I APRrL 2000 5uLVz" x63/c" x63/+"Cap cleatt1/2" x2" x2"l*8x11/c"exterlolwoodscrewPost slde3/4" x2" x72"1/c" Chamlettr)/s4u,'x2Vz,,Screw eyecaptrln strlps31g,', a1/4,, xi,'NOTE: Fenderwasher andcopper pipe capsame as lantern.59


A New Look atNItarn how to turn your home and yard into a dramatic display of colors, shapes and shadowsfor just pennies a night with a safe, easy-to-install low-uoltage lighting system.ou wouldn't build a newhouse or remodel a kitchenwithout considering lighting.The same should hold true foroutdoor projects, too.One of the most popular additionsto home landscapes recentlyhas been low-voltage lighting. Ifyou've ever played with a modeltrain, then you're familiar with theconcept behind low-voltage lights.Both operate on 12-volt electriciry.Yet, as friendly as they seem,Iow-voltage lights aren't totallyfoolproof. Without careful planning,you can easily overdo it. Here aresome tips for using a low-voltagelighting system.PLAI{NING A LAYOUTBefore buying anything, first decidewhat to light and why. Answering acouple questions will help:Where is light needed themost? Map out your properry payingspecial attention to the locationof the driveway, paths and entryways.Look around the landscape forspecial feature such as sculptures ora favorite tree to highlight.I like to limit myself to one ortwo focal points in each area of theyard.The key is to be creative withoutproviding too much light.What effect is desired? Lightsproduce different effects, dependingon where and how the fixtures arepositioned. Some of the nost commonlighting patterns are shown onthe facing page. To get an idea ofhow something might look, I use aflashlight to mimic the effect:Once youte satisfied with thelayout and the lighting patterns,shopping comes next..qdoEgo:EE


HOW IHE BASIG PARNi WORKAll low-voltage lighting systems arecomposed of three main parts:TRAI{SFORMERThe heart of any lowvoltagelighting systemis the transformer. Itconverts 120-volt ACelectriciry into 12-voltDC needed to powerthe low-voltage lights.Tiansformers range in size from asmdl unit, which powers a singleentrence light, to large models thatcan saGly operate 25 or more lights.To determine what size is needed,simply add up the wattage of all thelights that will be used. Then selecta transformer that closely matchesthe total wattage of the lights.In addition, transformers includeseveral control options that can turnlights on and off - gvsn rvtrsnnobody is home. Some have anautomatic timer. Others use photocontrols that switch lights on atdusk and off at dawn. Motion sensorsare a third option.CABTE A}IDG01{I{ECTORSElectriciry is deliveredthrough aninsulated wvo-wirecable (There's no need for a groundwire).The lights attach with simpleclips that pierce the cablet self-sealinginsulation to tap into the pow.er.Usually, 16-garge cable is suficient.It's a good idea to use 12- or 14-gauge on runs over 150 feet or when10 or more lights are installed.IIG}]T FIXIURESYou can buy $4 plasticlights all the way up to$100 metal deck fixtures.I was surprisedto even find a $20 kitwith everything for abasic system: 10 lights (4 wattseach), 50 feet ofcable, and a 44-watttransformer with a manual timer.GREATE THE RIGHT EFFECTIn most Instances wlth landscape llghtlng, you want poople to notlce the effect createdby the ll$ht rather than the flxture ltself. A sln$e flxture can Gast nany dlffetent pat'terns dependlng on lts placement. Here are slx of the most Gommon llghtlng effectsyou're llkely to use.IIOTYNLrc}MilGWhen you want tocast llght over abroad area, a floodllghtmounted on thehouse or hlgh In atree works well.UPUG}MilGTo hlghllght anobloct's shapo,hlde a well, spot,u accent llght atground level tothrow llght upward.SPREAD trc}MilGMushrcom, tler, andcyllndilcal*hapedllghts wlll batheflower beds In soft,clrcular pattemsof llght.INSTALLIT{G A SYSilEIIIYou can install everything in threeeasy steps. All it takes is a screwdriverand a pair of pliers.1. Installing a Tiransformer. Thetiansformer can be mounted indoorsor outside at least a foot off theground next to a grounded oudet.Follow the manufacturer's instructionsfor attaching the cable wires.2. Stringing the Cable. Routethe cable to the desired fixture locations.Thefirst light must be at least10 feet from the transformer. Sinceyou're working with low voltage,the cable doesnt need to be run inACCEr{t UGlmilGOeate sparkllnglslands of llghtsplead aoloss focalpolnts to lllumlnatewalhrays and dlrectpedestrlans.M001{lrc}milGTo recreate the noodof moonllght, placefloodllglhts hlgh Intrees so the llghtfllters down thrcughthe branches.SHADOWIilGPlace a low-anglospotllght In fiont ofbushes and oblectsnear a tall wall tomake the oblectsappear much lalger.conduit. Once the entire installationis completed and the lighting effectis achieved, you may want to buryor hide the cable so that a mowerwont accidentally cut it. I used asidewalk edger to make a shallowtrench thatt the perfect size.3. Connecting the Lights. Eachmanufacturer has its own system forattaching fixtures to the cable. Manyconnectors have prongs that simplypierce the cable and lock in place tomake contact.The only thing left to do now iswait for dark to test the system andfine tune the lights. L-\WORKBENCH ! MARCH I APRIL 2OOO 61


Central air-conditioning units, trash containers, or stacks of - flrewood they can all hurt ahome's appearance. Now you can hide them in plain sight with this attractiuenclosure.f-l-1h.Icentral air-conditioningbox sitting next to vourhouse is a small price to payfor cool air on demand. But, let'sface it - that box is pretfy ugly.This knockdown enclosuremight just solve the problem. Itt awhole lot nicer to look at than ametal box, and it comes apart easilywhenever you need to service theair conditioner.If this particular screen isn't quiteto your taste, take a look at theSimple Screen Options on page 67.One of those designs might be abetter match for your home.All three designs are easy tobuild, but this first one is probablythe simplest.The frame, battens, andslats are all built from dimensionallumber, so all you need to do is cutthe pieces to length. The posts are4x4's cut to height and anchoredwith spikes that can be found at any62 woRKBENCH tr MARcH I APRrL 2000


Hanger spacerGFrame sideSCREEN ENCTOSURE WITH ARGHED TOP RAIIFrame top(1x4-45" long)OVERALL SIZE: 55"W x 55"D x 43'/z"HPost cap(2x6-572" long)Conduit pegsEMT-3" long)Arched rail(lx6-431/2" long) ...--.--(4x4-42" long)Post anchorNOTE: Post anchor stylemay vary based on availabili$in your area,Franie top)(elwoo.o =-\Use a framing square to help keepthe frame assembly true. Pre-drilland countersink holes through theHanger fascia(1x2-32" long)---r.- -Y --..t,.-r'tf (Q Battengx4-43V2"Sfatslongl /37Y2" )onglI3d (1%" long)Galvanized nail>


6atk5/e" froi---Slats will be nailedto battens here.First, clamp the battens together. Markthe position of the first slat %" fiomone end of the battens. Then mark bothsides of each slat and leave %" spacebetyveen them. Use a framing square toextend the lines acruss both battens.A %"-thick spacer positions the battenthe conect distance from the back ofthe frame while you drill and scrcw.ADD T}IE BATIEI{S AND SI.ATSAftel you've built the fi'aures, you canlurove on to the 1x4 b;rttens.To findtheir lengtl-rs, llreasure between thesides of each fi-anre. It n-right seenrlike lr-r extra step, bLlt nreasure for thetop and bottonr battens. You nrightbe surprised how nruch differer-rcethele is in the thickness of the sidepieces even il1 that snr:rll space.Next, cut the battens to fit snuginside tl.re fi'anre, but dor.rt attachthenr yet. This is a eood tinre to layoLlt the slat loc:rtior-rs on both battens.Set the blttens edge to edge withtheir ends flush and clartrp thenrtosether (Fi.q. 2). Tl'relr nrrrk forboth edges of each slat :rnd use afranrine square to extend tl-re lir-resacross botl-r battens. Lerve about a'/r" spirce between slats.Now you're ready to nlount thebattens ir-r the fi-antes. Lay tl-re fi'anreon its back and position the battensinside it. I used'/,"-thick spacers tosllpport the battc'ns fiont underneath.Make sure all the layout lines.rre llcingup ;rrrd drivc scrcwsthrouslr the fi'ame sides ar-rd into theends of e:rch batten (PiC J)The 1x6 slats are next. Measure thedistancc benveen the fi'anre top andbottonr and cnt the slats accordingly.I)on't feel like you have to cut the slatsfol a tight fit, tl.rough. If theyic a littlesnrall, tl.ratls fine. Just leave the gap atthe top lrd:rn :uched top rail willcover it later. Now positior-r the slatson the layout lines and, witl.r the battensstill supported fronr underneath,nail on the slats (iriq. a).CUT TIIE ARCHED TOP RAIIThe next step is to add an :rrcl-redrail n.rade fronr lx(r stock that willdress up the top ofthe panel. I startedby rough cutting a 1x6 a littlelonger than the battens.One way to lay out the arc is touse a flexible stick as a drawingguide (Fig. -l). First, locate the centerlineand ends of the arc (Top RailLd1\tut). Next, drive a small nail ateach end of the arc. Use the flexiblestick to bridge the nails and createthe desired crorvn.Then trace alongthe edge ofthe stick to draw the arc.l{ough cut the arc with a jigsawrnd sand it to shape. Then cut therail to the same length as the topbatten. Use this first top rail as ater-nplate to lay out any others youneed before nailing it to the panel.BUITDING IN I}IE KNOCIOOWNYou may only need to remove thepanels once a year to service yourAC, but that will be plenry for you toappreciate how easily it comes apart.@@Glamp the fascia, the spacer, and thetop cleat together while you pre-drilland drive screws to assemble them.Some %"-thick shims arc helpful foraligning the hanger while you scr€w itto the frame. Attach the fascia with atleast four sonewso it will support theweight and withstand the panel beingrcmoved and rcplaced.64 woRKBENCH ! MARCH I APRrL 2000


TOP RAIL I.AYOIIDrive two nails through each end ofeach slat. Leave the spacers under.neath the battens for suppott.A %"-thick piece of hardboad or scrapstock makes a grcat flexible stick totrace an arc. Since the desired arc runsthe length of the top rail, lay it out on alonger board and then cut the board tofinal length after cufting the arc.And it doesn't cven recluire fancyhardware or t:rsteners to work. Soureshort pieces of electrical conduit, asimple wood h:uruer, and the pull ofgraviry are ell thrt are needed.Most oithc rvork is in the hanger,so that'.s the best place to get started.Yor,r'll neecl to cut four pieces foreach h:inser assembly: the fascia, thespacer, and two cleats (Han,qr:r SidcViau).-lwo sets of hanger prrts areneeded for each panel.To assemble the upper part of ahalrger, clamp the f:rscia, spacer :rndone cleat toqether rud fasten thetnwith trvo scrcrvs (Fig. 6).Now attach the hanger to theframe side. To position the hanger,draw a line on the franre abottt 3'l,"down fronr the top and align the topof rhe hanger with that. Lry thepanel facedown and shim the har.rgerwhile screwing it in place (FiS. 7).The fir.ral step in building thehangers is to screw on the lower cieat.Position it'l," fror.r'the fascia (ttiq 8)PREPARING THE POSTSThere's no nlystery to the poststhenrsclvcs -..yust 4x4\ cttt 42" long.But to conrplete the knockdowndesign, you need to add the conduitpegs that tl-re hlngers rest on.-fheMatcrials Lr-st calls for ',/"'EMT conduit. l)on't worry toorruch about those initials when yougo shopping. l)eper-rding on yourlocal honre center, you nray firrdconduit with the label EMT, IMC,or Rigid Steel. Any of thenr wiilwork, but EMT will probably be themost affordable. It will also be theeasiesto clrt.For a three-sided enclosure,you'll need 12 conduit pegs that are3" long. First, lay out all the cllts ona length of conduit and clar.np thepipe in a vise. Then cut it with apipe cutter or a hacksaw (Fiq. 9).Atthe very least, file the ends of thepe€is to get rid ofany burrs or sharpedges. lVith a little more filing youcan bevel the edges of the condr'ritwhich will rnake it easier to drive HANGERinto the post.stDE vtEwNext. lay out the peg positionson the 4x4 posts and drill '/'"-dianteterholes (Fiq, 10).The holes shouldbe 1'l:" deep so half the length ofeach peg is buried ir-r the post. Makesllre the holes are a consistent depth.The pegs should fit pretty snug, soyou'll have to harnmer therl in.Thatwont be a problem if you're buildingthe screens out ofcedar. But ifyou reusing a harder material like pressuretreated lurnber, use a piece ofscrap toprotect the end of the peg while youhanrmer it in.a3V""1Cut 3" longlengths of7e" EMT conduatUse a temporary %"-thick spacer toposition the lower cleat the corrrctdistance from the fascia.lf you don't have a pipe cufter, a hacksawwill cril conduit iust fine. Be carefulnot to crimp the conduit in the vise.Drill holes to a consistent 1%" depthby marking your drill bit. Drive the conduitin until it bottoms out in the hole.woRKBENCH tr MARcH I APRIL 2000 65


'da+xcpostr:6 '-u)m1[p IL5 'iStrtn8llnel !Position anchor6" flom eachstring lineConduit pegl___ 67Position the string line by measuringfrom the wall of the house or from thecenter of the AG unit.Drive post anchors into the grcundwith a 4x4 block to prcvent damagingthe collar of the anchonInstall the screen by setting the hangerover the lower pegs then pivoting andlowering the scrcen onto the top pegs.SETTING THE P(X;TSTo install the enclosure so it's square,set up a string line before you start settingposts (FV, I l) Ser the perinrecerof the string line 6" outside of whereyour enclosure will be and then measurein when vou set the posts.This isn't a large structure, so Idecided it didn't need the extrastrength of concrete footings. Instead,I found an easy-to-install post spikeat the hor.ne center (F(. 12).Thepost slips into a collar that is tightenedwith a couple bolts. Once theposts are set, han€ling the panel is aseasy as sliding the hangers over theconduit pegs (F1q. 13).For a finishing touch, add somepost caps. There are several stylesavailable at the hor-ne center, or yollcan make yoLrr own ([c/,,ri). E-MAKING YOUR OWN POST CAPSPost caps are available in a varie$ ofs$les, but they can be expensive and maynot look just the way you want. Here's aneasy technique to make your own from a2x6 using only a circular saw.Start with a 2xG that's at least 24" long.Screw it to a piece of plywood to helphold it while you're cuttlng. Be careful tokeep the screws out of the path of a cut.Next lay out the cut lines according tothe drawing shown below Be sure toleave the 'f" space between each capas pictured and lay out each cap separately.That way you'll avoid any cumulativemistakes if you miscut.Stad with the 45' crosscuts. Makeevery other cut, turn your workpiecearound and complete the cuts.P(xiT CAPLAYOI,Ttl-\IYs"Don't rush when you're making thelong, beveled rips. Any blade marksleft behind will sand out easily.24"For safety, remove the 2x6 frcm theplywood and flip it over to cut thefinished caps frce from the board.END VIEW23/+" 23/+"v" Plywood work suface66woRKBENcH ! MARCH I APRIL 2000


Simple ScreenOptionsVerticalbattenO)rFrame sideMATERIALS LISTTUMBER: IWO PANELS AS PICTURED)A (4) Frame Top/Bottom 3/4" x31/2, x49112,B (4) Frame Sides314, x3tf 2', x 48,'C (8) Horizontal Battens t10,, ylt/2', x 48,'D (8) Vertical Battens z1o" yf,t/2" x41,,E (2) Lattice Panels 48" x 48"F (4) Hanger Fascia e10,, y lt/2,, x32,'G (4) Hanger Spacers 3f4" xlrf2" x4"H (8) Hanger Cleah3f4r x !1f2r xTtl| (3) Posts3t1r,' yf,tl2,, xb2',J (3) Post CapsLl/2' xSl/2" xSI/2''K (3) Post Cap Finials Store boughtL (8) Conduit Pegs5/su EMT x 3"HARDWARE:(112) #8 x 2" Fh exterior screws(3) #8 x21 lz" Fh exterior screws (to attach post caps)FIREWOOD SCREENffiffivery similar to the slat design.The differences are the lattice thatreplaces the slats, and the additional battensthat have been added to help capture the lattice panel.MATERIATS IISTLUMBER: 0w0 PANELS AS PICTURED)A (4) Panel Sides310, xJtf2', x 45,,B (2) Battens (for front panel) 31tu x3112" x48"B (2) Battens (for side pane 3/q' x3llz' x24'li'C(12)Slats310,,ygr12, x45,,D (4) Hanger Fascia 3/i' x 11/2,, x32"E (4) Hanger Spacers 3/l'x11/2,,x4',F (8) Hanger Cleats 3fa" y11f2, x7"G (3) PostsJt f2" v 31 f2" x 48"H (9) Post Capstlf2,, xg1f2,, x51f2,,J (8) Conduit Pegs5/s', EMI x 3"HARDWARE:(68)#8 x 2" Fh exterior screws(6) #8 x 2112" Fh exterior screws (t0 attach post caps)(48) 3d galvanized box nailsIR'TSH CAI{ ENCLOSUREframe pieces gives this panel aclean look. A large arc cut in the topof the slats adds a decorative touch.WORKIJEN(]H N MAIICIH I APRIL 2OOI) 67


AroundThe FlouseTechniques for Working with Wood LatticeLattice has always been a nicelookingway to fill outdoor structures.The web-like design providessome concealment while still lettinglight through. But there aresome real challenges to workingwith wood lattice.Visual Balance: The first problerlis how to keep the panel synrnretrical.Ifyou rreasure from the edge ofaftill sheet of lattice to lay out thepanel you need, the panel can windup lopsided (F,g 4 To avoid this, shiftyour neasurements over until thepanel you intend to cut is synunefficalon all edges (Fig 2).The simplest way do that is tolay out the center of the panelfirst and then measure half thetotal dimension in both directions.Do this for the length andwidth of the panel for symmetryin both directions.Cutting Lattice: The nature oflattice - thin strips of wood stapledat the interseclions - makes it fragile.Tiyingto cut it with a circularsaw can literally vibrate it to pieces.Some lower-grade lattice isn't evenstapled at every intersection.Obviously, the first solution is tobuy the highest qualiry lattice youcan find.You'll find the higherqualiry lattice labeled somethinglike "premium grade" or "heavydury."You can also tell it from thecheaper stuffbecause itt usuallytwice as thick. It will cost a fewbucks more, but it will be mucheasier to work with. It won't rot,warp. or conre apart as soon, either.Even with the best latticenloney can buy, you still need totake some care to keep the latticefrom coming apart as you try tocut it. Before doing any cutting.check all the intersections to besure they're rvell pinned.You mayfind an occasional missing orpoorly positioned staple. Add astaple or small nail wherever youfind a problem.During the actual cutting. it'simportant to support the lattice soany small pieces near the cut linedon't get jarred loose. A good wayto do that is to sandwich the latticebetween two sudaces (Fig 3).I like to use a sinrple cuttingguide on top of the lattice. Notonly does it hold the lattice firm,but it keeps the saw nroving in astraight line as well.Using a sheet of rigid foaminsulation underneath the latticemakes a great vibration dampener.That way you can also let yourblade cut into it without any fearof damaging the blade.68 woRKBENCH tr MARCH I APRrL 2000


Studless Mounting for Electrical BoxesAdding a new power outlet to anexistins wall can be tricky.Theproblem is you can't get behind thedrywall to attach the box to a stud.One solution is to use specialrnounting strips ([e/orr).The rype Iused recently were 5'lr"-long metalstrips with :r couple 2" firrqels orrthenr. I've heard these referred toby the nickname "battleship"because the fingers sort of reser-nblethe sr-r'rokestacks of :r ship.To use these strips, you'll haveto conrbine thcnr rvitl-r the type ofoutlet box thrrt lus nrounting tabson thc to1'r aucl bottom.Stalt by tracing the outlirre of thebox on the wall where you're goingto install it. Now cut a hole in thewall with :r kcyholc s:rw or utiliryknife. Fit the box inside the hole andslide a ntountinq strip between thebox and the clryrvall (Ff.q. 1)Witl.r one hand, hold thenrountinq tabs of the outlct boxagainst the wall.Then use a pair ofpliers in the other hand to pull thestrip forwlrd ulrtil it stops .rg.rirrstthe back of the drywall (lti.q. 2).llend the fingers into tl"re box tolrold the box in place (|4q.-3). Nowfollow those steps to install a stripon the other sidc of the box.lle sure the fingers ilre conrpletelyflat inside the box so tl'reywon't contact any ternrinal screwsolr the outlet or switcl-r. For addeds:rfety, wrap the body of the outletin electrical tape before installilrg it.First, insert the bottom of the strip.Then tilt the strip in and slide it up.; Re/l'',---.0Hold the box tight againsthe wall whilepulling on the 'frngers."Mounting tabSynrhetic OilMI#8II"Using syntheticmotor oil will voidmy warranty."rAGICastrol Syntec'sperformance ratings farexceed the warrantyrequirements of all USand foreign passengercar and lightruckgasoline vehicles. So5Y4"Bend fingers inDrywall ispinched betweenbox and strip.when you upgrade toCastrol Syntec, you'restill completely protectedby your warranty.The outlet box is held in place when thefingers are bent into the outlet box andthe mounting tabs are againsthe wall.See owner's manual for usein certain types of diesel engines.wORKI]ENC]H tr MAI{cFI API{IL 2OOO


In The ShopMake Gutting Small Pieces Safe and EasyCutting small pieces at the table sawtakes extra care for several reasons.First, holding small pieces puts yourfingers too close to the blade.Second, short pieces ruay jarrrberween the blade and fence, thenkick back.Third, narrow stock candrop through the opening aroundthe blade and get kicked up. Butmininrizing these risks just takes afew sinrple jig.Zero-Clearance Insert: Beforecutting ar.ry snrall pieces, replace thesaw'. standard metal or plasticthroat plate with a zero-clearanceinsert (riqlrt). Manufacturers sellthenr, but making one is easy.Start by rer-noving the saw'.stl.rroat plate and tracins its outlineonto wood stock of the samethickness.Then cut the piece toshape and test fit it.Now cut an opening for theblade. It nray sound stranse, br-rt thiscan be done with the insert in thesaw. llefore you start, make sure theblade is all the way down, and notRESAWING PUSH BTOCI(touching the underside of the ir.rsert.Next. lock your rip [ence inplace over the insert, r-naking sureit's not directly above the blade.Then turn on the saw, andslou,ly raise the blade to cutthe opening. Note: If yourfence won't hold the insertin place, you can clamp a2x4 over it instead.Push Blocks:'Wher-r cuttinga small piece, a widepush block allows you topush both thepiece beine cutto size rnd tl-recutoffsafely pastthe blade. Scrap2x stock is sreatfor nrakingpush blocks.The resawingpush block(ltortom lc.ft) isjust a 2x4 witha hrge notchcLrt oLlt of oneLock fence to holdedge. For the ripping push block(bottom right), glue a hardboard cleatto the bottom of a 2x4, and add ashort dowcl for a handle.ZERGCLEARANCE INSERTthroat plate.Start saw andslowly ralse bladeto cut a slotKeeplence.o(, ln the lnsert,:l:1',!(yRIPPING PUSH BLOGKz:.--/ r/r,t:-"-" -42x4-8"4:Press down with fingers whilepushing forward with heel of hand._o'("orn"tY-1rt1'


A Quick fig for Ripping Thin StripsPl)'wood projects always look betterwith the edges covered by thinstrips of solid wood banding. Butwhat\ the best wry to cut consistentthin strips on the table saw?One r-r-rethod is to set the fencethe desired distance fronr the blade.Then make multiple passes to cutenough strips.This works, but thestrip can get caught between theblade and fence and kick back.The other option is to cut thestrip on the waste side of the blade.It gives better control ofthe Adjust screw to setworkpiece, ar-rd the strip falls thickness of strip.laway clear after passine thc))--- -/ ,/blade. But movins the fence /,//--"'- ---./ ./betweerr passcs can yicld stripsof different thickncsses.One solutior.r is the jigshown at right. It'.s just a blockscrewed to r runncr th:rt sits inthe saw',s nriter g:ruge slot.Setting up the jig is easy.Position it aloneside the blade, andfine tune the jig by turning a panheadscfew driven into one edse.Then pull the jig brck so it sirsahead ofthe blade.),,11 \-it--/ il I-->-=---_.._Now butt your workpiece againstthe screw and lock the rip fenceagainst the workpiece. Make a cuttinepass, then repeat the process oneach additional pass.All the stripswill be the exact same thickness.runner In {caLEARMEADOWS, PASTURES, ROADSTDES-all those non-lawn areas that ordinarvmowers can't touch!The amazing DR'" FIELD and BRUSH MOWERCUTS tall gmss, weeds, brambles, toughbrush and even hardwood saplingsupto l"rhick.CHOPS/I4ULCHES most everythingitculs. lraves NO TANGLE ofbrush to pick up like hand-heldbrushcutters and sicklebar mowers,P e rfecl for low -mainte nancewi MJlower meadow s, Europea n -sty le woodlot s, wal king paths,or any area you only want to mowonce a month or once aSo,WHYSTRUGGLEwitJ:ta shaky hand-heldbrushcutter ordisicklebar mower? tc'ALLTbLr"FeEErCAaa)SS3-laoai,r.;; ;;i I G i; ;"'p* r*-rnEe-oef A r LS ;ft h..1DR@ FIELD and BRUSH MOWER including prices, !specifications and "Off-Season" Savingr no* li'"ff..t. There is no oblisation.IAddressCilym' fi3ffiIL-------Stale ZIPF3T::l:?Y:.H;;:;$,','ffi iwww.drfieldbrush.com --- ---itIDon't let your tools stand between you andtruly prcfessional rcsults. Use Starrett tools, thechoice of expert craftsmen for over 120 years.Choose any or all of these FFEE attractive,full-color catalogs, packed with informationMeasuring Tapes, Levels, and ToolsProduct Information Number 190StorwettThe L.S. Starrett Company121 Crescent Street. Athol. lVlA 01331Tel.: (978) 249-5330 . Fax: (978) 249-8495 o www.starrett.com


Minimize Ghipout When Making figsaw GutsA lot of the newer jigsaws on rhemarket make it easy to get smooth,splinter-free cuts. But even withoutone of these high-tech saws, thereare ways to get good-qualiry cutswith little chipout.For starters, be sure to choosethe right rype of blade. Differentmodels are available for cuttingsolid wood, plywood, lamrnares,metal, and plastic. Blades with dif:ferent numbers of teeth per inch(tpi) are also available.As rhe rpidrops, blades cut faster but rougher.And for saws that don't have ananti-splinter insert, consider makinga simple shoe cover (below left).lt'sjust a piece of r,/'"-thick hardboardthat attaches to the saw with double-sidedcarpet tape.A narrow slot surrounds theblade, giving support ro rhe stockto stop splintering. Layout lines stayvisible thanks to a suide notch.PrototypexieFinishedProductGlean Shop AirWhile You'rc AwayA workshop air filter is viewed as aluxury by r-nany woodworkers. Butfor anyone spending serious time inthe shop, it's one more "tool" thatbelongs on the list of necessities.A filter won't pick up large chipslike a dust collector. But it doeshelp remove very fine dust fromthe air before it can settle on everythingor end up in your lungs.We have an air filter in theWorkbench shop that usually runs allday. And to make the filter noreeffective, we've made a simpleimprovement. All this took wasplugging the unit into an ordinarylight/appliance rimer.Before locking up the shop atthe end of the day, we ser rhe timerto run the Iilter for a couple hours,then shut off. That way, the dust stillfloating in the air gets filtered, andthe next day the air (and everyrhingelse in the shop) is dust-free.HEAVY DUTYETIclO*llail Maslet'"ELECTFIIGEIFIAtrt GUNGrab hold of the all-new ARRoW ET100" The ET100'' provides nail driving muscleand experience the beauty of ergonomically without the burden of an atr comoressor.designed comfort. lts non-slip cushionedIt shoots 3 diflerent size brads.grip and superbalance assures effortlesswork, even during long jobs.Solid state circuihy, a hardened carbonsleel delivery system for iam-proolIn addltion to performing routine nailing perlormance, and both trigger andjobs, this powerful 10 amp brad nailer is surlace contact safeg locks combinespecially angled to handle difficult corner, t0 offer increased years of safe, accurate,edging and framing jobs. No scratched 0r trouble{ree service.damaged surfaces.Celcbrating ou' -/QtltAiniztersaryIj@"[ ]il1ilililllllll5/8.ll ll V (lsmm)ll U-qs-tleas)u--l-13!mm)slrooTs 3BRAD SIZESThe ETI(N*is available whertelver line tools arc sold.Arow Fastener Co., Inc., 271 Mayhitl Street, Saddle Brook. New Jersev 07663Canada: Jardel Distributors, Inc.,6505 lvletropotitan Blvd. East, lvlontreet,0uebec H1p 1X9United Kingdom: Arrow Fastener (U.K.) Ltd., 14 Barclay Road, Croydon, Surrey CRo.tJNwwarroMastener.comO 1999 Atrow Fastener Company, Inc.


l.-Tools & ProductsRouter Reaches New Heights with Simple GrankMost plunge routers are equippedwith a small knob to adjust theheight of the bit. It works fineuntil the router is installed in arouter table.Then turning thatsmall knob in close quartersbecomes a real pain.After installing a Kwik-Crankfrom Eagle America on my plungerouter, I can now adjust the heightof the router in less than half thetime it used to take - with a lotless effort.The extra-long shaft andcrank-sryle handle provide moreleverage for turning than the previousknob.You'll think you'recranking down a car windowrather than adjusting a router.Designed primarily for use withtable-mounted routers, the Kwik-Crank is well-constructed. It featuresa threaded steel insert and analuminum crank shaft with an offcenterhandle. Different models areavailable to fit several popularbrands ofrouters.The only thing I don't likeabout the Kwik-Crank is how thehandle attaches to the crank shaft.It's held in place with an epo)rytypeglue.Welding would provide amore long-lasting connection.Under normal use, the handleshould be fine. But over time, itmight wear loose from the shaft.Overall, my impressions of theKwik-Crank are very positive.Thissimple crank-sryle adjustment systemmakes changing the height ofa table-mounted plunge routermuch more convenient.Depending on which routeryou own, expect to pay bervveen$30-$35 for the Kwik-Crank.Thisis a bit more than some otherheight-adjustment knobs that areavailable as accessories, but it'sworth it. Some routers may requirespecial mountinghardware, which isincluded in the priceofthe crank.For more information,contact Eagle America at(888)872-7637 or visit thecompanyt Web site atwww. eagle-america. com.Standard Ghisel Serues Double Duty as a PlaneI recently borrowed a rabbet planefrom a friend and really liked it.After shopping around, I decided Icouldn't justify spending $50-$100to buy one. Then I came across aless expensive option that worksalmost as well - aVeritas chiselplane from LeeValley Tools.The way the chisel plane worksis by capturing a 1" bevel-edgechisel in a 13la"-wide by 51/2"-long plane body.The cast ironbody holds the chisel at a 45o anglewhile cutting 1"-wide dadoes andgrooves up to 3/st' deep.As long as you keep your chiselssharp, it works great. PIus, I d rathersharpen a chisel than try to honethe small blade of a rabbet olaneany day.I did discover a few surprisesabout the chisel plane - not theleast of which was that it can alsobe used to cut hinge mortises.Though it's designed for cuttingrabbets and grooves, the best use Ifound for it was cleaning them upafter they were cut with anothertool. By the way, it also comes inhandy for removing hardened glue.The large clamping screw isaccessible and adjusts easily. I alsolike the fact the tool is designed tohold chisels with a 20o to 35obevel with equal success.The only problem I had withthe chisel plane was where to positionmy hands while using it.Thereisn't much room to get a goodgrip. Plus, if you don't keep yourhand clear of the arched area justforward of the blade, the shavingswont spill clear.Retail price for the chisel plane(chisel isnt included) is around$30.To learn more, contact LeeValley at (800)267-8735 or checkout www.leevalley. com.76woRKBENcH ! MARcH I APRIL 2000


Combination Alarm Detects Dual Dangerc in Your HomeI'When I bought my house about ayear ago, the inspector told me thefurnace was in good condition forits age. But he also warned thatbecause it was an older model, Icould eventually have problemswith it leaking odorless carbonmonoxide gas.So when it came time toreplace the smoke alarms in myhouse, I decided to install combinationalarms that would warnagainst not only fire, but also highlevels of carbon monoxide.There are a variery ofbrands ofcombination alarms available. Oneof the main reasons I chose theFirst Alert alarm was because it featuresseparate sensors, and differentwarning sounds, for smoke andcarbon monoxide.This way I don'thave to guess what's wrong whenit goes off. Three consecutive longbeeps, and a flashing red flame,indicate smoke and a potential fire.A longer on-and-off tone, with aflashing red dot, signals a carbonmonoxide problem.Another feature I like about thealarm is that it's powered by a single9-volt alkaline battery. Thealarm even includes a friendlywarning chirp as a reminder whenthe battery runs low and needs tobe replaced.Suggested retail price for thecombination alarm is around $40.Watch for them on sale. I pickedup mine for less than $30.To find out more. call First Alertat (800)392-1395 or check outwww.firstalert.com on the Web.MODEL 12OOOSotiO 4-Post HeadO Handles Logs 12' long x 29" dia.ORugged Manual MillOAvailable Hwy PackagessTimberKing has a sawmill for every'need, from thehobbyist to the professional! All TimberKing millsfeatuie a four-post cutting head for consistent cutsyearafteryear. .. and allTimberKing equipment ismade in the USAand backed by a 30 Day Money-BackGuarantee and 2 YearWarranty.Gall NOW for FREE facts:1-800 -942-4406 ext. SA47TimberKing, lnc. 1431 N. Topping Ave.Kansas City, Missouri 64120www.timberking.comThe ltliracle Truss@build-it-yourselfdesign will save youeYen mole money!. Easy-and fast--constructionrequires no heavy equipment.. Design engineered for strengthand durability,. Rafter-free design gives you 100%usable soace.. Widths from 18'-10', lengths &heights to fit your needs.. 16 contemporary colors availableto choose from,. Take immediate delivery or deferit up to 6 months with our FREEStorage Program.fffiitlRlGllTf,il^N'Buy Factory-Direct- sAvE -THOUSANDS!36'x 36'(A $12,593 Value)1{0w olttY s6,674


Old Fixture,New LightYears of neglect had reduced thk -fixture to junk.A craftsman's touch restored it'sfunction.estoring tl-re bemtyof light fixtures likethis one is only halfthc ch:r1lcnee for ar-rtiquclight restorer l)avic'l Meshek.To rnake thc fixtr-rrc work asqood :rs it looks, he rnust alsornodily its oriqirr.rl q.ls fittirrlsto accept electric light bLrlbs.He begins by bre:rking thefixture down into pieces.Tl'repieces lre tl-ren so:ikedovernight in paint stripperrncl power wasl-red to renrovel:rcqr-rcr, dirt, anc'l grease. Next,Mcshck silvcr solclcrs thecrrcks that conlnc'rnly lppcarirr antiquc brlss picccs.He then clrills out thc lightbody, gas valves, and tubes torrr,rkc rrrore sprrcc f.rr prrllirrr{ir-r electrical wire.There'.s afirre line' between enlartini4thc openings just enough,and drilling throuqh the sidesancl rr.rininq the pieccs.Ilefore relssenrbling thc fixture,each piece is aciciwrshed and polished torc'nlove pitting.They are theninlncrscd in acrylic lacquerto coat tl-rcnr insic'le ancl out.Mcshck then rcasscnrblcs thcfixtur-c, pullinu rvirc throughtltt' .nt.tll pir'ce\ :r\ hc qocs.C)rnate qlass shrdc's conrpletetl-rc fixturc'.s rcncwll.Each tinrc thc switch itflippcd on this rc'storedfixturc, thc polisl'rccl brlsswill rcflcct l(X) ycars ofhistory. f( ) y('ilrs of cxpcrience:rnd courrtless hours ofharc'l work.l)n,id Mr:slttk orurrs l)avidMrslrtk Artriqrrc Liqlttirt.g inWcst Dcs NIoittcs, IA(.il 5) 277-9009.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!