W[illiam] A[ugustus] B[revoort] - TcNet

W[illiam] A[ugustus] B[revoort] Coolidge
The Bernese Oberland - Volume 2: From the
Mönchjoch to the Grimsel
1904

Some 3Boofts on /iBountaineerutG
True Tales of Mountain Adventure. For
Non-Climbers, Young and Old. By Mrs.
AUBREY LE BLOND (Mrs. Main). Fully
Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net.
Adventures on the Roof of the World. By
Mrs. AUBREY LE BLOND. Fully Illustrated.
Demy 8vo, cloth, los. 6d. net.
The Life of Man on the High Alps: Studies
made on Monte Rosa. By ANGELO MOSSO.
Translated from the Second Edition of the
Italian by E. LOUGH KIESOW, in collaboration
with F. KIESOW. With numerous Illus.
trations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth,
2 IS.
Mes Escalades dans les Alpes et le Caucase.
Par A. F. MUMMERY. Traduit de l'Anglais
par MAURICE PAILLON. With a new
Preface and Notice on Mummery as a
Climber. Illustrated by a Portrait of the
Author in Collotype, 24 full-page Plates,
and 4 Maps. Paper covers, 9s. net.
The Climbs of Norman-Neruda. Edited,
with an Account of his last Climb, by MAY
NORMAN-NERUDA. Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s.
In the Ice World of Himalaya. By FANNY
BULLOCK WORKMAN and WILLIAM
HUNTER WORKMAN. With four large
Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. Demy
8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition.
From the Alps to the Andes. By MATTIAS
ZURBRIGGEN. Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d,
net.
Mountaineering - in the Sierra Nevada. By
CLARENCE KING. Crown 8vo, cloth, 6s.
net.
LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN.

THE BERNESE OBERLAND

CONWAY AND OOOLIDGE'8
CLIMBERS' GUIDES.
Edited by Sir MARTIN CONWAY and the Rev.
W. A. B. COOLIDGE. 32mo, limp cloth, gilt
lettered, with pocket, flap, and pencil, price los.
each. Also a Series of Six COLOURED MAPS of
the ALPS OF THE DAUPHINY, mounted on linen,
and strongly bound in cloth case, price 4s. 6d.
the set.
1. The Central Pennine Alps. By Sir
M A RTI N CON WA Y. (Out of Print.)
2. The Eastern Pennine Alps. By Sir
MARTIN CONWAY.
3. The Lepontine Alps (Simplon to St.
Gothard). By Rev. W. A. B. COOLIDGE
i and Sir MARTIN CONWAY. • ,
4. The Central Alps of the Dauphiny. By the
Rev. W. A. B. COOLIDGE, H. DUHAMEL,
and F. PERRIN. (Out of Print.)
5. The Chain of Mont Blanc. By LOUIS
KURZ.
6. The Adula Alps of the Lepontine Range.
By the Rev. W. A. B. COOLIDGE.
7. The Mountains of Cogne. By GEORGE
YELD and the Rev. W. A. B. COOLIDGE.
With Map.
8. The Range of the TBdi. By the Rev. W.
A. B. COOLIDGE.
9. The Bernese Oberland (Vol. I.). By
G. HASLER.
10. The Bernese Oberland (Vol. II.). By
the Rev. W. A. B. COOLIDGE.
LONDON i T. FISHER UNWIN.

Conway and Coolidge's Climber? Guides
THE
BERNESE OBERLAND
VOLUME II.
From the Monchjoch to the Grimsel
BY
W. A. B. COOLIDGE
LONDON
T. FISHER UNWIN
PATERNOSTER SQUARE
1904
[rrice Ten Shillings

[Altrights restrict]

PltEFACE
THIS volume of the " Climbers' Guides " Series
has been compiled, by me mainly on the base
of my own personal experiences in the district
described. These date from 1865; while I
specially collected notes, with a view to this
work, from 1894 onwards, when I made my
appeal for help in the Alpine Journal (vol. xvii.
p. 55). The sad death of my lamented friend,
Mr. E. F. M. Benecke, and my own absorbing
occupations in other departments have long
delayed the preparation and publication of this
work. But for me the Bernese Oberland will
always have a very special charm, for it was
in that region that I made my earliest high
expedition, and now I am a permanent inhabitant
of one of its loveliest valleys.
The plan of this volume is identical in most
respects with that adopted in the other volumes

Vlii PREFACE
of the Series. The routes up the various peaks
are arranged in chronological order, as in the
Mountains of Cogne volume, published in
1893. The "times" given are "average" times
(excluding halts), such as would be taken byaverage
walkers under average conditions.
Much care has been devoted to tracing out
the history of the names of the various peaks
and passes.
By an interesting coincidence this volume
(in which the Wetterhorn is described) appears
in the jubilee year of the first ascent of the
Wetterhorn from Grindelwald (by Sir Alfred
Wills, 17th September 1854), whence dates
the origin of systematic mountaineering in the
Alps.
I now come to the agreeable duty of offering
my heartiest thanks to the friends who have
aided me in the preparation of this book.
First and foremost is my good friend of many
years' standing, Dr. H. Diibi (the President of
the Berne section of the Swiss Alpine Club
and the Editor of the Jahrbuch of the Swiss
Alpine Club, as well as the Joint-Editor of the
excellent new edition of Studer's classical work
Ueber Eis und Schnee). Dr. Diibi read through
the whole of my MS., and has also corrected

PREFACE ix
the proofs of the entire book. His suggestions
and corrections have been of the very greatest
service to me, and I gladly take this opportunity
of expressing my sincerest thanks to
him for his unvarying courtesy and his unselfishness
in allowing me to profit by his
stores of Alpine knowledge. I must also thank,
for much help of various kinds, Herren Paul
and Charles Montandon, Herr Albert Weber,
and other Swiss climbers. Much unpublished
and valuable information has also been communicated
to me by several English friends,
among whom I may name Mr. Frederick Gardiner,
Mr. Sydney Spencer, Mr. C. E. Freeman,
and Mr. Frank Gare. To one and all I here
express my best thanks for their readiness and
willingness to assist me.
GRINDELWAI.D,
April, 1904.
W. A. B. COOLIDGE.

ABBREVIATIONS
A. J. Th* Alpine Journal. London.
From 1863.
A. P. Die Alpenpost. Weekly periodical.
Glarus, 1871-4.
Aeby.
c - Aebv > E < von Fellenberg, and R.
Gerwer, Das Uocbgebirge von
Grinddwald. Coblenz, 1865.
Aimer's, Christian,-*
" Fuhrerbuch " >• Facsimile edition. London, 1896.
(1856-1894). )
Alpenrosen. Alpenrosen for 1852. Aarau and
Bern, 1852.
Alpina. The official periodical published by
the Swiss Alpine Club. Zurich.
From 1892.
Altmann. •*• G- Altmann, Versuch einer Historisc/tett
und Physischen
Beschreibung der Ildvetischen
Misbergen. Zurich, 1751.
B. & O. O- Studer, M. Ulrioh, and J. J.
•YVeilenmann, Berg- und
Oletscher-faJi.rten in den
Hoclialpen der Schvxiz. Two
Series. Zurich, 1859 and 1863,

Xli ABBRE VIA TIONS
_ , . . /The vol. on that subject in the
Badminton J „Badnj;nton Lib .. 3rd
" Mountaineering. | edition Lon(Joll( 1900>
Bull. John Ball, The Central Alps.
London, 1882.
Baltzer. Armin Baltzer, Der mechanische
Contakt von Oneis und Kallt
im Berner Oberlande (essay in
the Beitrage xur geolog. Karte
der Schweix, 20te. Lieferung,
Berne, 1880).
Bleuer's, Christian, "»
" FUhrerbuch" >• MS. belonging to Mr. Coolidge.
(18S0-1880). i
Bohren's, Peter, \
" Fiihrerbuoh " >M3. belonging to Mr. CooliJge.
(1850-1881). )
0. A. F. Ann. Annuaire du Club Alpin Francais,
Paris. From 1874.
Conway. Sir Martin Conway, The Alps from
End to End. 1st edition.
London, 1895.
Coxe. W. Coxe, Travels in Smlzerland.
3 vols. London, 1789.
D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. Milteilungen of the German and
Austrian Alpine Club. Vienna.
From 1875.
D k Oe A V (Zeitschrift of the German and
Zeitschrif't. \ Austrian Alpine Club. Vienna.
(. From 1870.
Desor. K. Besor, Excursions et Sejours
dans les Glaciers. Two Series.
Neuchfitel and Paris, 1844-5.
Echo. Echo des Alpes. Geneva. From
1865.
Escher. Arnold Escher vou der Linth,

ABBRE VIA TIONS xi'li
ErlS.ulerung der A nsiehten
einiger KontaktverhUllnisse
xwischen hrystalhnischen
Feldspatgesteinen und Kalk
im Berner Oberlande (essay in
the Neue Denkschrifteft der
Allg. Schweiz. Qesellschaftfilr
die gesammten Naturwissenscliaften.
Vol. iii. Neuchatel,
1839).
Fontes, Fontes Rerum Bernensimn. 7 vols,
(and Index vol.). Up to 1353.
Berne, 1883-1893.
Forbes, New edition (in Travels through
the Alps) of the Bernese Oberland
bits of J. D. Forbes'
Norway and its Glaciers
(London, 1853), prepared by
Mr. Coolidge. London, 1900.
George, U. B, George, The Oberland and
its Glaciers. London, 1866.
Glrdlcstone. A. G. Girdlestone, The High Alps
vrithout Guides. London, 1870.
Graf, J. H. Graf, Kartenwesen (a vol. of
the Bibliogr. d. Schweiz. Landeskunde).
Berne, 1896.
Gruner. ^- S. Gruner, Die Eisgebirge des
Schweiserlandes. 8 vols.
Berne, 1760.
Heathmau. W. G. Heathman, Switzerland in
1854-5. London, 1855.
Hmchlin", T, W, Hinchliff, Summer Months
Among the Alps. London,
1857.
Hort, Life o/F. J. A. llort. By A. F.
Hort. a vols. London, 1896.

XIV ABBREVIATIONS
Hottinger.
Hugi 1.
Ilugl ii.
Joanne,
Marsli.
Merian,
Meyer t.
Meyer 11.
Moore.
N. A. P.
J. H. Hottinger, Montium
Glacialium Helveticonim Descriptio.
Vienna, 1706.
F. J. Hugl, 2iaturhistori3cJie
Alpenreise. Soleure, 1830.
F. J. Hugi, l/eier das Wesen der
' Oletsoher und Winterreise in
das Eisnneer. Stuttgart anil
Tubingen, 1842.
A. Joanne, Itinlraire de la Suisse.
Paris. 1st edition, 1841, and
2nd edition, 1853.
Herbert Marsh, Two Seasons in
Switzerland. London, 1895.
Matthew Merian and Martin
Zeiller, Topograpkia Helvetiae,
lihaeliae, et Valesiae. Frankfort,
1642.
J. R. and II. Meyer, Reise auf
den- Jungfrau-Gletscher und
Ersteigung seines Oipfels.
Aarau, 1811.
Reise aiif die Eisgebirge des
Kantons Bern und Ersteigumg
Hirer Mchsten (Hpfel im
Sommer ISIS. Aaran, 1813.
Compiled by II. Zschokke
from information given by
the Meyers. See also the
Alpenroscn, for 1852.
A. W. Moore, The Alps in 1S64,
London^ 1867 (privately
printed). References are given
to the edition published in 1902.
Die Ifeue Alpenpost. Periodical
published at Ziirloh, 1875-1882.

Ober.
Oe. A. Z.
P. P. G.
Pioneers.
Plunket.
Purtscheller.
R. A.
P». M.
Rebmann.
Rohrdorf.
Roth i.
b
ABBREVIATIONS XV
P. Ober, L'Oberland Bernois. 2
vols. Berne, 1854.
Oesterreichisc/ie Alpen-Zeitung.
Vienna. From 1879.
Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers. 1st
Series, 1859, and 2nd Series,
2 vols., 1862. London.
C. D. Cunningham and W. de W.
Abney, The Pioneers of the
Alps. 2nd edition. London,
1888.
Hon. Frederica Plunket, Here
and There Among the Alps.
London, 1875.
Ludwig Purtscheller, Ueber Felt
und Firn. Munich, 1901.
Revue Alpine. Lyons. From
1895.
Rivista Mens He del Club Alpino
Italiano. Turin. From 1882.
II. R. Rebmann, Ein Neuw,
Lustiff, Ernsthafft, Poetisch
Gastmal und GesprOch zweyer
Bergen (Niesen und Stockhorn).
Berne, 1606. The
1620 edition ia that referred to
in these pages.
Caspar Rohrdorf, Reise ilber die
Grindeluiald- Viescher-Gletsdier
o-uf den Jungfrau-Gletscher
UTid Ersteigung des Gletscliers
des Jungfrau-Bergcs. Berne,
1828.
Abraham Roth, Gletscherfahrten
in den Berner Alpen. Berlin,
1861.

XVI ABBREVIATIONS
Roth ii.
Abraham Roth, Finsteraarhornfahrt.
Berlin, 1863.
Rubi's, Peter, iter,)
MS. belonging to Herr Strasser,
" Ftthrerbuch oh"^
the pasteur of Grindelwald.
(1856-1879)
8, A. C. J. Jahrhuch ties Schweiser Alpendub.
From 1864. Berne.
a A. Z.
Schweizer Alpen-Zeitung. Zurich,
1883-1893.
9, Map,
Siegfried Map (1/50,000).
Soheuchzer (1716). J. J. Soheuchzer, Helwtiae
Stuicheiographia, Orographia,
und
1716.
Oreographia. Ziirich,
Scheuohzer (1723). J. J. Soheuchzer, Itinera per
llelvetiae A Ipinas Regiones
facta annis 1702-1711. Col­
Schlagintweit.
lected edition. 4 vola. Leyden,
1723.
A. and II. Schlagintweit, Untersuchungen
liber die physicalische
Oeographie der Alpen.
2nd Series. Leipzig, 1854.
Sohiitz Wilson. II. Schutz Wilson, Alpine Ascents
and
1878.
Adventures. London,
Schmizer- Tourist Periodical (12 Nos.) published by
Karl Knecli t. Berne, 1898-9.
Siraler.
W. A. B. Coolidge, Josias Simler
et les Origines de I'Alpinisme
jusqn'en 1600. An annotated
edition, of Josias Binder's
Stephen.
"de Alpibus Commentarius"
(Zurich, 1574), published at
Grenoble, 1904.
Sir Leslie Stephen, The Play-

Stettler.
Studer, Gottlieb.
Tyndall, J.
Weiss.
Wills.
ABBREVIATIONS XVU
ground of Europe, 1871. The
2nd edition, London, 1894, is
that used.
E. Stettler, lieise von Orund hey
Hash iiier das Hintere Wetterhorn
und den Lauter-Aar-
Qletaclwr avf die Griimel.
Article published In 1811 in
No. 152 of Hopfner's "Gemeinnutzige
Schweizerische
Nachrichten." References are
to the reprint in S. A. C. J.
xxxi. p. 855-361.
Topographische Atitteilungen aus
dem, Alpengebirge. 2nd edition.
Berne and St. Gall, 1844.
Das Panorama von Bern. Berne,
1850.
Ueber Eis imd Schnee. New
edition published at Borne by
H. Dubi and A. Waber. Vol.
i. (1896), vol. iii. (with
Addenda), 1899.
The Glaciers qf the Alps. London,
1860. Eeprinted in
1896.
Hours of Exercise in the Alps.
London, 1871. The "Alpine
Jottings" are reprinted in
" New Fragments," 1892.
J. II. Weiss, Atlas (Jfnlrai de la
Suisse. Aarau, 1780-1802.
Sir Alfred Wills, Wanderings
Among the High Alps. London,
1856 (the Bccond edition
appeared in 1858).

XVlii ABBREVIATIONS
Wundt. Theodor Wundt, Die Jungfrau
tmd das Berner Oberland.
Berlin [1897].
Wyss, J. B. Wyss, Reise in das Berner
Oberland. In 2 Parts with
" Hand Atlas " (1818). Berne.
1817.
Zsuhokke. See Meyer ii.

MAPS
THE district described in this volume is represented
on sheets xiii and xviii of the Du/our
Map (I/IOO/,OOO), which is now mainly of
historical value. Climbers will of course use
on the spot the magnificent Siegfried Map
(1/50,000), of which the following sheets (1 fr.
each, on ordinary paper, and unmounted, or
1 fr. 25 cents on Japanese paper to fold) cover
the region described in this volume: 396
(Grindelwald), 397 (Guttannen), 489 (Jungfrau),
and 490 (Obergestelen), together with very
small bits of 393 (Meiringen), of 493 (Aletsch
Glacier), and of 494 (Binnenthal)—the first
named taking in the N. end of the EngelhSrner,
and the two others the extreme S. bits of the
Wannehorn and Galmi ridges.
The Federal Topographical Bureau has also

XX MAPS
issued the following " Combined " Maps (3 frcs.
each, mounted to fold), which take in the whole
district described in this volume : Brienz-
Guttannen (N. half of our region) and Jungfraumassiv-Oberwallis
(S. half).

CLUB HUTS
Bergli Hut, 3299 m.( 10,824 ft. (Berne Section
of the S. A. C.) 8-9 hrs.
From Grindelwald follow the summer path to the
Biiregg Inn (1J-2 hrs.), as described in detail in vol. i.
p. xix.
Beyond the Inn a path leads in a few minutes to the
two wooden ladders which must be descended in order
to gain the surface of the Lower Eismeer. Cross this
Eismeer in a nearly S.W. direction to the great snow'
fan formed by the Dennlerlaui, and mount the snow fan
next to the S. (a small stream here descends a block
rock). Then take the new footpath to the r. hand, which
soon mounts in a nearly due S. direction by zigziigs
past a shepherd's stone hut. Beyond, a stone staircase
is scaled, and then the path bears S.K. across the
Grabon to the spring marked 2026 m. on the S. map
(2 hrs. from Biiregg). The path zigzags up S. by a
grassy edge and across one or two gullies, and then
bears rattier to the 1. till It mounts straight up to the
rocky step, where was formerly a ladder (40 min.). The
path turns this obstacle by a zigzag to the r., and then
passes along a ledge (where it is blasted out of the rock)
to the 1., and so winds round to the moraine slope above

xxii CLUB HUTS
the 1. bank of the Grindelwald Fiescherfim. The path
now passes along loose ground and rocks, and keeps
some way above the edge of the glacier till the ice is
attained (20 min.) above the great ice-fall. Now cross
the glacier in a slightly S.W. direction towards the rock
rib, of which the foot is marked 2824 m. on the S. map.
Then mount by the steep snow or Ice slopes (crevasses
and some danger from avalanches) to the E. of this rock
rib, the Club hut being finally attained by a short
steep ascent over rocks in a W. direction.
In winter, as the path to the Baregg is generally too
dangerous by reason of avalanches, it is best from the
bridge over the Lutschine (989 m.) to take the r. hand
path and follow, through the hamlet of Mettenberg, the
usual summer path to a small alder wood, where the
1. .hand path leads past (} hr.) the small Inn at the
entrance to the "Lamm" (or gorge excavated by the
glacier), and then up to the small refreshment house
higher up (i hr.) on the 1. bank of the Lower Glacier.
Thence the Lower Glacier itself is soon gained, and
must be mounted to the Zasenberg huts (2J hrs.), whence
it is best to ascend by the E. slope of the Ziisenberghorn
to the top of that peak (2343 m., 7687 ft.). Hence bear
nearly due W., and join the summer route near the foot
of the rock rib marked 2824 m. on the S. map.
Concordia Hut and Inn, 2870 m., 9416 ft. The
Club hut belongs jointly to the S. A. C. and
Herr Cathrein (landlord of the Eggishom Hotel),
while close by is a small Inn, the sole property of
Herr Cathreiii). 4-4I hrs.
From the Eggishom Hotel follow the good mule path
(marked on the S. map) to the E. end of the Marjelen
lake (2 hrs.). The path then runs above the N. shore
of the lake to near its N.W. end, whence a footpath

CLUB HUTS xxiii
descends to the Great Aletsch glacier. This glacier
offers no difficulties, and the Club hut and Inn are
reached In 2-2J hrs. from the N. end of the lake.
A pleasant and much recommended excursion of 5-6
hrs. (no difficulty) is to go from this Club hut and Inn
to the Oberaar Club hut by way of the Grunhornliicke
(P. 18) and the Gemslucke (p. 42).
Dollfuss Hut, 2393 m., 7851 ft. (Oberland Section of
theS. A. C.) 3-4 hrs.
From the Grimsel Hospice follow the Oberaarjoch route
(P. 48) to near the top of a green ridge or promontory.
Here the way to our hut descends to the r. hand, and
*>y the Balmsteg bridge crosses to the 1. bank of the
infant Aar. The track passes some chalets and attains
the foot of the snout of the moraine of the Unteraar
glaoier. This moraine is then mounted by a path, and
the glacier is followed (at first along its medial moraine)
to the foot of the rocky promontory on which the Club
hut or Pavilion is built. Formerly it was necessary to
mount a path up a steep gully to the S.W. of the hut.
Now it is usual to mount N.E. of the hut by grass
between a promontory and a waterfall, and then to
bear W. to the hut itself (J hr. from the glacier).
Dossen Hut, 2700 m., 8859 ft. (Oberaargau Section
of the S. A. C.) 4-5 his. from Rosenlaui,
or 6-7 hrs. from Innertkirchen.
a. From Rosenlaui go by the Pavilion or "Gletscherhubel"
path, or (more interesting and even
shorter) through the Weissenbach gorge (recently
made accessible), to the Rosenlaui
glacier. Mount by the glacier and the moraine
on its r. bank till near the point marked 2307
m. on the S. map (2J hrs.). Then turn 1. into

XXIV CLUB HUTS
the hollow enclosed between a rook spur running
down from the Gstellilioru and the Dossengrat.
Mount the rooks of the aforesaid spur for a few
steps, and then bear r. in order to cross the
torrent from the glacier and regain the glacier
itself, which is now traversed In a S.E. direction
to the foot of the Dossengrat (J hr.). This
wall is ascended by means of steep rocks and a
nasty couloir (iron stanchions and a long fixed
rope are helpful here) to the point marked 2550 m.
(1 hr.), which is 20 minutes above the depression
of the Urbachsattel. Then follow the broken
rock crest in a S. direotion to the hut (J hr.).
b. From Inntrtkirchen mount by the new char road
to the first plain in the Urbach valley. Cross
the main valley stream near Am Buhl, where
the road ends (1J hr.). .Now go over meadows,
nearly at a level, to Eohrmatten and the end of
the level plain (1 hr.). Here the path to the
Gauli Club hut winds up to the 1. hand j but if
bound for the Dossen hut, go down to and cross
by a plank bridge the main valley stream.
Then mount by a steepish and very rough path
(not visible occasionally), up the r. bank of the
torrent flowing from the Dossen glacier, to the
Fliischen Alp huts (1£ hr.).
(A longer route, 2J hrs., to the Fliischen Alp
is to continue up the Urbach valley past Im
Wald, Schrattern, Ilmenstein, and Enzen).
From the Fliischen Alp huts mount by grass,
dtSbrls, and rocks on the r. bank of two waterfalls
(near the upper cascade the path is well marked,
and iron stanchions are fixed in the rocks). Immediately
after reaching the top of these rocks
cross the great snow-field of the Dossenwand to
the hut (2 hrs.).

CLUB HUTS XXV
Gauli Hut, 2200 m., 7218 ft. (Berne Section of the
S. A. C.) 7 to 8 hrs.
This is a very comfortable hut, and ia -well provisioned,
and firewood Is found there (a moderate fixed
charge is made for it). Milk can be had from the
Matten Alp or the Urnen Alp, when the cows are there,
1 From Innertkirchen (Im Hof) follow the Dossen hut
route as far as Eohrmatten (2J hrs.). Soon afterwards
leave on the r. hand the path to the Dossen hut (which
descends to and crosses the main valley stream) and
follow the main valley path, which winds up to the 1.
hand through a scanty forest to Im Wald, and continues
over more open ground to Schrattern. After a
short descent the path crosses the main valley stream
by a wooden bridge to the Ilochwang huts (on the 1.
hank). Here the path divides.
a. The shorter branch (not always distinctly
marked) bears slightly to the r. hand, and
mounts first towards the " Hochwangmannen,"
three natural " stone men," which form a good
landmark. Thence bear S.W., over pastures
and high above the 1. bank of the Gauli glacier,
to the Urnen Alp huts, a few minutes beyond
which the Club hut is reached,
ft. The longer branch mounts up the valley to the
Matten Alp huts. It then gets steeper and
becomes a stone staircase, rounding some awkward
corners, where a wire rope has been fixed.
Afterwards It descends in a similar manner,
rising again at intervals, till it reaches the
point where a bridge crosses the main valley
stream to the Matten Alp huts on the r. bank.
Shortly be/ore reaching this bridge, the path to
the Club hut branches off to the r.' It is now less
distinctly marked, and is here and there diflioult

XXVI CLUB HUTS
to trace, until the Urnen Alp huts are reached,
a few minutes beyond which is the Club hut.
Gleckstein Hut, 2338 m., 7671 ft. (Burgdorf Section
of the S. A. C.) 4j to 5I hrs. Close by, the
Ober Berg Inn is now being built.
From Grindelwald go by the new carriage road to II.
Wetterhorn, at the foot of the Upper Glacier (a short
hour on foot). Here the choice may be made between
two routes to the hut.
a. Pass through a gate and follow the path towards
the fine ice grotto at the foot of the glacier.
But before reaching it, take on the r. hand a
zigzag path, which mounts the moraine on the
1. bank of the glacier and leads to the Milchbach
Inn on the Halaegg (J hr.). (Here wood
may be purchased for use at the hut). Thence
a short ascent leads to the foot of a rock wall,
which is scaled by a series of wooden ladders
and galleries. Above this wall cross the Upper
Glacier, which is here nearly level, to its r.
bank, above which, and at a spring, is a shelter
hut. Thence follow the new path which has
been made across the glacier—polished rock
slabs (in which were formerly the steps known
as the " Zybachstritte "), and so reach the
grassy knoll or shoulder of the SchoubUhl
(2051 m.). Directly above it a new zigzag
path, blasted in the steep rock wall to the
N., has replaced the old wooden ladders, and
leads to the top of this rock wall. It then
bears gradually N.W. to the Club hut (4} to G
hrs. from Grindelwald by this route).
b. Near the spring this route ia Joined by that (1 hr.
longer) round the Mnge. Ifrom H. Wetterhorn

CLUB HUTS xxvii
go N.E. by Eisboden to the foot of the Gutzlauenen
gully, then bear S. by a fairly good
path (recently much improved), first by rooks
and then at a level, beneath the slopes of the
Beihorn, •which rises on tho E. In this way
the point marked 1580 m. on the S. map, and
just above Eisboden, is attained. Now round
the S.W. corner (Enge) of the Wetterhorn, and
then keep by a path along this slope in a S.E.
direction to the Kehrwange, where the path
from the Milchbach Inn is joined near the
spring.
Oberaar Hut. (Bienne Section of the S. A. C.)
7 hrs.
There are now two Huts, both closo to the Oberaarjoch.
The new large hut, built in 1904 (abont 3260 m.,
10,696 ft.), is on the rocks of the Oberaarhorn, a little
W. of and 2 to 3 rain, above tho pass by a track blasted
in the rock.
The old small hut, built in 1883 (3250 m., 10,499 ft.),
k 10 miu. to the S.W. of the pass, on a rocky promontory.
If approaching it from the Galmifirn, its
site may be fixed by means of a great yellow blade of
r ock that rises close to the hut. This hut is only provisionally
maintained, and its materials will gradually
oe used as firewood.
A pleasant and much recommended excursion of 5 to
8 lira, (no diillculty) is to go from this Club hut to the
Concordia Inn by way of the Gemslucke (p. 42) and the
Grunhornliicke (p. 18).
Schwarzegfgf Hut, 2520 m., 8268 ft. (Basel Section
of the S. A. C.) Shi".
From Grindelwald go to the Buregg Inn (2 hrs.) by

xxviii CLUB, HUTS
the route described under the Bergli hut. Then descend
by the ladders to the edge of the Lower Eismeer, but do
not go on the ice. Follow the path past the Stieregg
hut to the S. foot of the Biinisegg ridge (1 hr. from
Baregg). Hence the new path proceeds along the
moraine on the r. bank of the Lower Eismeer, and then
climbs (iron pegs and ladders are here fixed in the
rocks) steeply up the cliffs that overhang the great icefall
(on the r. hand) between the Lower and the Upper
Eismeer. At the top of these cliffs a more gentle ascent
and a traverse to the 1. lead to the Club hut, which is
beyond the old Kastenstein stone, that was formerly
used as a bivouno.
' Another, but longer, way from Biiregg is to cross the
Lower Eismeer to the ZUsenberg huts (1 hr.), and thence
to go by the small rock mauvaia pas of the Enge to
the 1. bank of the Upper Eismeer. The Grttnenwang
pasture, on its 1. bank, is reached above the great icefall
that separates the Lower from the Upper Eismeer.
A level traverse across the glacier above this ice-fall,
and a short ascent over grass and stones, then lead to
the Club hut.

LIST OF SECTIONS
I. The Fiescherhom Group
II. The Finsteraarhorn Group
III. The Oberaar Group
IV. The Galmi Group .
V. The Schreckhorn Group
VI. The Wetterhorn Group
VII. The Huhnerstock Group
VIII. The Rizlihorn Group
IX. The Dossen Group .
PAOB
i
28
47
IS
67
101
134
154
172

SECTION I 'A'
The Fiescherhorn Group
FBOM THE MONCHJOCH TO THE FIESCHERJOCH
Mbnchjoch, 3560 m., ii,63oft.
Between the Month and the Walcherhorn, from the
Bergli Club hut to the Concordia Inn.
For the history of this pass, see vol, i. p. 159,
From the Bergli Club hut mount the rook rib on which
it stands to the snow above, and then go up the snowcovered
glacier (a few crevasses) to the pass (J hr.-l hr.).
If bound for Concordia (and not for the Jungfrau or
the Monch, when it ia necessary to bear S.W. to the
Ober Monchjoch, see vol. i. p. 133, 116( and 149)( descend
almost due S. by steep snow to the nearly level
surface of the Ewig Schneefeld, which flows down
between the Trugberg (W.) and the chain of the
yiescherhprner and the Griinhorner (E.). At the lower
end of this great snow-field it is possible to force its icefall
(A. J. vi. p. M7), or to tarn this'ice-fall on the
S.E. by means of a sort of causeway (well marked on
the S. map), from which the glacier dips at each side
(A. J. xv. p. 328). But .the usual route is to quit the
I

2 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
Ewlg Schneefeld on its r. bank and to follow a path
over the rocks of the S.E. spur of the Tnigberg (their
foot is marked 2806 m. on the S. maj>). In one or
other way the level glacier below is attained, and then
the Concordia Inn (3 hrs. from the pass).
The well-known name "Place de la Concorde" was
given, Aug. 13, 1857, by the Eev. J. F. Hardy, when
starting for the Finsteraarhom : " it is the Place de la
Concorde of Nature" (P. P. G. i. p. 292).
Walcherhorn, 3705 m., 12,156 ft.
This name is first attributed to this summit by the
S. A. C. Exkursionskarte, 1885-86 (Studer, i.
p. 253, note).
•The Eev. T. H. Philpott, with Chr. Aimer, sr., and
Chr. Eoth, and Mr. Henry Bowyear, with E. and P.
Aimer, July 16, 1890, crossed this snow hump fron»W.
to S.E. on their way from the Monchjoch to the N.N.W.
arete of the Gross Fiescherhorn (A. J. xv. p. 309).
Grindelwald FiescherhSrner.
' The name "Fischerhom" occurs first in 1606. in
Eebmann's poem (p. 481), though oddly enough in connection
with the Hasle Jungfrau and the Or. Scheidegg
(9. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 242), but no name is applied to
the range, though it is well shown both on Merian's
1342 (between pp. 24 and 25) view of the Grindelwald
glaciers, and on the smaller view (probably a reduotion
of Merian's) which appeared in No. 100 (Feb. 9,1673-4)
of the "Philosophical Transactions" of the'Eoyal
Society of London (see A. J, xiv. p. 820, note). In
1706 Hottinger twice mentions (p. 72, 75) the name
f Finschhorn," which certainly applies to our range:
he himself spells the name of the village of Fiesch
"Finsoh," while in 1723 Scheuchzor (p. 289), quoting
the former of the two passages, writes correctly'' Fiesch»
1

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 3
horn," though not indicating this name on his view
(which is also Merian's) of the Grindelwald glaciers.
About 1716 Samuel Bodmer gives the name " Fiescherhorn
" (S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 245). In 1751 Altmann
gives the name of " Viescherhorn " in his text (p. 26-9),
—he connects it with that of the village of Viesch—
applying it also on his view to our range j at p. 54 he
spells the name " Fieschhorn." In 1760 Gruner de.
scribes the "Viescherhorn" in his text (p. 81), indicates
our range under that name on his two illustrations
(p. 89 and 91), and gives the name under No. 124 on
his map. The name " Fiesoherhorn" is given to the
Ochsenhorn on Plate 172 of Zurlauben's Tableaux de la
Suisse (1777-1780—see A. J. xiv. p. 322, note) j while
iu 1789 Coxe (citing Wyttenbach) gives (vol. ii. p. 301)
the name of " Viescherhorn " in his text, as well as that
of " Zesenberg," but on his Panorama from Berne calls
the present Or. Fiescherhorn " Viescherhorn," and also
the present Ochsenhorn " Zesenberghorn," probably in
consequence of a slip. Weiss' Atlas in 1802 names the
" Grindelwalder Viescherhorner." Meyer's 1813 map
marks the "Walcher Oder Grindelwalder Viescherhorner."
• So too in 1816 does Wyss's map, though in
the reverse order, while his 1817 text (p. 644) speaks of
the " Viescherhorner " only, and tells us that strangers
think that this name means " vieh'sche Horner " (cow
peaks), though (he observes) it really comes from the
village of Viesch in the Valais. In 1828 Itohrdorf mentions
the " Grindelwalder Viescherhorner " on his map
and in his text (p. 24).. In 1830 Hngl on his map gives
only the name of '^ Walcher Horner,'' and explains it
in his text (i. p. 10S-9) as a corrupt form of " Walserhorner"
or " Walliserhtimer." In 1844 Desor (I.'p.
365, note) writes of "les Viescherhorner "de Grindelwald,
appeliSes aussi Walcherhorner," but

4 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
on the way from the Grimsel Hospice to the Oberaar
glacier, thus confounding it with the Agassizhom: in
1845 (ii. p. 141) he speaks of "la longue arGte du
Vieacher-Grat, aveo les deux Viescherhorner, tous deux
couverts de neige jusqu' a leur sommet, et dont l'un, le
plus large, est visible du Grimsel." In 1844 Studer
gives only the name of "Viescherhorner" in his text
(Top. Mitt. p. 69), but on his 1838 Panorama from the
Siedelhorn (annexed to that work) he attributes also the
name " Ochs " to one or other of the summits of this
range, from which, however, he clearly distinguishes
the Agassizhorn, whicli he states is visible both from
Bern and from the Grimsel Hospice. In 1850 he tells
us {Panorama von Bern, p. 212, 217) that there are
three main peaks called Viescherhorner, that which
projects most towards the Grindelwald glacier being
named the "Gross Viescherhorn," while (confounding
one of these summits with the Agassizhorn, like Desor)
he remarks wrongly that from the Grimsel Hospice one
sees the central peak of the Viescherhorner, to which
the people there give the name of the " Ochs."
It is stated (S. A. C. J. ii. p. 519, and Studer, i.
p. 253, note) that, in the early editions (the first dates
from 1855) of sheet xviii. of the Dufour map, no name
was given to the highest point of the range, though it
was long before known at Grindelwald as the Gross
Fiescherhorn, that name being on the Dufonr map
attributed to the .true Ochsenhorn. Herr von Fellenberg
in 1865 (S. A. C. J. ii. pp. 618-521, and Aeby,
p. 118-9, 125, see too A. J. ii. p. 253) settled the names
as they are now recognised, and by the end of 1860
they all appear rightly on the later editions of that
sheet of the Dufour map.
In 1864 Mr. John Ball proposed (first edition of his
" Central Alps," p. 109, 111) to name the highest point
of this range " Almerhorn," and that name actually

THE F1ESCHERII0RN GROUP 5
appears on his map of the Bernese Oberlaud (even In its
latest editions), as well as on another map (published in
1887) in Miss L. Tuokett's " Pictures in Tyrol" (in 1864
Chr. Aimer was the guide of this party), the intention
being to render due honour to the famous Grindelwald
guide who had made its first ascent. But this name has
not been adopted by the Federal Topographical Bureau
(Studer, i. p. 253, note).
The Siegfried map has sanctioned the spelling
" Fiescherhomer," which (see above) appears very
early, but had been abandoned later in favour of
" Vieseherhiirner."
As to the Alpine history of this range, see generally
Mr. Coolidge's article in the D. & Oe. A. V. MM.
1890, p. 73-7, and Studer, 1. p. 252 sqq.
The Fiescherhom massif is divided from the Grltnhorn
massif by the Klein Grllnhornlilcke.
Gross Fiescherhom, 4049 m., 13,285 ft.
The culminating point of this peak rises 20-30 metres
S. of the true watershed, the N.W. ridge joining
the main ridge at the second rocky tooth on the
former (A. J. xiii. pp. 381, 535, xiv. p. 157).
I. From the SAV.
The Rev. II. B. George and Mr. A. W. Moore,
with Chr. Aimer and Ulrich Kaufmann, July
23; 1862 (A. J. i. p. 236 sqq.).
In 1885 the original record of this party was found
In the cairn on the top (A, J. xii. p. 467), but the fir
tree, planted by them, was taken away in 1865 (S. A.
C. J. iii. p. 281, and A. J. xiv. p. 323).
A. J. xii. p. 467, xiii. p. 466, xiv. p. 205, 321.
From the Bergli Club hut in lfc-2 hrs., or from the

6 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
Concordia Inn in 2J-3 hrs., reach a point on the Ewig
Schneefeld at the foot of the mountain. Then bear
N.E., and by a broken glacier anil across a bergschrund
gain the rocks of the S.E. slope of the steep S.W. ridge,
by which ridge the summit is attained (2-2J hrs.).
a. From the S.E. (Fieschersattel).
Herr Fritz Bischoff, with Peter Bohren and Peter
Egger, Aug. 10, 1871 (S. A. C. J. vii. p. 532,
Studer, i. p. 264).
A. J. vi. p. 147, xii. pp. 421, 424, xiii. pp. 379, 381,
xiv. 156. S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 391, xxxv. p.
306. D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1885, p. 185, 1S90,
pp. 74-5- Oe. A. Z. 1883, p. 197, 1889, p. 34,
1899, p. 18. rurtscheller, p. 263.
Beach the foot of the mountain by Ete. 1. Then bear
N.E. up the same broken glacier to the bergschrund,
which must be struck far more to the S.E. than on
Rte. 1 (J hr.). Cross it and out up an ice slope, or'
climb up the gully most to the r. hand, to the Fieacher^
Battel (J hr.), the gap between the peak and the Hinter
Fiescherhorn (A. J. xiii. p. 379). Thence in J hr. or so
climb up ^he good firm rocks of the S.E. ridge (sometimes
heavily corniched) to the summit.
3. From the N. W,
Messrs. G. Cliater and Hopper, with Ulrich Kaufniann
and Peter Baumann, Aug. 4, 1863 (A. .T. i. p. 319,
Xiv. p. 321, B13), mounted from the Ewig Schneefeld by
the well-marked snow gully (just N. of the S.W. ridge
of Rte. 1, Oe. A. Z. 1899, p. 16, Pnrtscheller, p. 264)
in 1£ hr. to the crest of the N.W. ridge, which was
attained just at the N.W. foot of the final rooks of the
peak; and in 1J hr. more, at first by steep ice with
rocks here and there, and then by rocks only, gained

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 7
the top—this party thus climbed about J of the N.W.
arGte, reckoning from the point marked 3S42 m. 011 the
8. map. Herr Pfarrer Gerwer and Sir Hermann Weber,
with Peter Rubi, P. Iniihnit, Pi Baumann, jr., and. Chr.
Meyer, Sept. 13, 1865 (S. A. C. J. lit. p. 278-281), seem
to have at first climbed up the rocks on the r. bank of
the same snow gully, and higher Up, in the gully itself,
to have joined the route of the 1863 party. Mrs H.
Woolley, with Chr. Jossi and Hans Kaufmann, July 31,
1887 (A. J. xiv. p. 156, note), coming from the Bergli
Club hut, struck the N.W. arGte rather S.E. of the
point marked 8642 m., and then climbed up the whole
of that ridge to the top (this Is the route now commonly
taken). The Rev. T. H. Philpott, with Chr. Aimer, sr.,
and Chr. Both, and Mr. II. Bowyear, with R. and P.
Aimer, July 16, 1890, starting from the BergH Club
hut, struck the N.W. arGte considerably to the N.W, of
the Walcherhorn (3705 m.), and thence followed it in
its entirety to the summit of the peak (A. J. xv. p. 309).
A. J. xiii. p. 380, xiv. p. 156, 513, xv. p. 79, 204.
S. A. C. J. Hi. p. 277, xxiv. p. 120, 391, xxvl. p. 397,
xxxv. p. 806. Purtscheller, p. 264-5. D. & Oe. A, V.
MM. 1890, p. 75, 1894, p. 122. Oe. A. Z. 1889, p. 34,
1894, p. 11, 44,1899, p. 16-17. • <
Reach the foot of the more N.W. part of the range
from the Bergli Club hut (1} hr.) or from the Concordia
Inn (3 hrs.). Then bear N.E. and by easy snow slopes
gain the N.W. arGte, slightly S.E. of the point marked
3642 m. (J hr.). Thence climb up that ridge to the
summit (2-3 hrs.), cutting up a Steep short ice slope',
and only taking to the rocks at the end of the climb. '
Ochsenhorn, 3905 m., 12,812 ft.
Called Klein Fiescherhorn or Ocks on the S. map
(the former name is by error given to\he Pfaffenstockli
in A. J. xiii. p. 466). '

8 THE F1ESCHERH0RN GROUP
1. Fremt/it S.E. (Fiescherjoch).
Herr E. von Fellenberg, with Peter Baumann, Peter
Inabmt, Ulrich Kaufmann, and Peter Kaufmann,
July 28, 1864 (Aeby, p. 126, S. A. C. J. ii.
p. 259, A. J. xiv. p. 321).
A. J. iv. p. 155, xiii. p. 267-8, xv. p. 310.' S. A. C.
J. xxvi. p. 397, 507, D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt.
1890, p. 74.
From the Fiescherjoch follow the sharp and narrow
snowy S.E. arete to the summit (J lir.).
2. From the N. (Ochsenjoch),
Mr. E. R. Whitwell, with Christian Lauener and
Peter Schlegel, Aug. 2, 1878 (N. A. P. viii.
p. 62, A. J. xiii. p. 268, Studer, i. p. 273).
Aeby, p. 124. A. J. xiii. p. 268, xiv. p. 514. S. A.
C. J. xxii. p. 318, xxiv. p. I16.
This route had been tried in Aug. 1877 by Messrs. J.
Walker and F. C. Hartley, with Peter Rubi, who were
beaten back by ,a terrific wind when within 250 ft. of the
summit (Pioneers, p. 158, and P. Eubi's " Ftihrerbuch,"
p. 185).
The second party (Mr. J. Stafford Anderson, with
Ulrich Aimer and Alois Pollinger, Aug. 17,1886, A. J.
xiii. p. 122), in 2 hrs. from the Sehwarzegg Club hut,
gained the Ochsenjoch (3080 m.), S. of the PfaffenstSckli.
The N. arete was thence more or less followed over the
points marked 8360 and 3570 m. on the S. map to the
summit of the peak, first up an ice wall to the foot of
some bad rocks (1J hr.), then up these rocks over point
3360 m. to point 3570 m. (50 min.), and finally by a
steep ice and hard snow ridge, requiring continuous stepcutting
(2 hrs.)—the final overhanging bit is turned on
the 1, The above times are quick.

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 9
3. From the IV.
The Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge, with Chr. Aimer, jr.,
and R. Aimer, July 22, 1888 (A. J. xiv. p. 156,
Oe. A. Z. 1889, p. 34, D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt.
1890, p. 76, S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 391).
A. J. xv. p. 310. S. A. C. J. xxvi. p. 397, 507.
From the Fieschersattd (the gap between the Gr.
Fiescherhorn and the Hinter Fiescherhorn), or, If descending
from the Gr. Fiescherhorn, from a point on ita
S.E. arete rather above this gap, descend easily to the
great snowy basin or plain that extends between the
three summits of the Fiescherhorner. Then cross
that snowy basin to the W. foot of the Oohsenhorn
(J hr.), keeping some way from the great corniche which
fringes it on the N., and then climb up the sharp
snowy W. arCte to the summit (40 min.).
Ochsenjoch, 3080 m., 10,105 ft.
Between the point marked 3360 in. on the S. map and
the Pfaffenstockli, from the Grindelwald Fiescherfirn
to the Ober Grindelwald Eistneer.
This pass Is often, but erroneously, confused with the
Fiescherjoch (A. J. xlii. p. 267-8, Studer, i. p. 274,
note). It is simply a means of access to the Fiescherjoch
route, and is not a pass strictly speaking. Httgl
(i. p. 108) perhaps alludes to it.
Mr. G. E. Foster, with Hans Baumaun and a Grindelwald
porter, July 21,1868 (A. J. iv. p. 155, Pioneers,
p. 88), left the Baregg Inn at 8.30 A.M., crossed the cirque
of the Fiescherhorner, then bore to the 1., and ascended
some steep rooks (SimeWergli) to the pass, whence he
went up to the true Fiescherjoch (reached at 4.15 P.M.,
after cutting many steps). Mr. Stafford Anderson's
Party in 1886 (see Rte. 2 of the Ochsenhorn above) took
2 hrs. from the Schwarzegg Club hut to the Ochsenjoch,

10 THE FIEHCHERHORN GROUP
while Herr H. Diibi, with Chr. Jossi and Peter Schlegel,
Sept. 27, 1888, took about 3 lirs. from the Ziisenberghorn
to the pass (S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 114).
Pfaffenstockli, 3121 m., 10,240 ft.
The Dufour map gives only the name of Grindelwald
Grilnkorn, but the S. map gives also that of PfaffenstSckli
(derived from its first conqueror, Pfarrer Gerwer,
S. A. 0. J. xxiv. p. 119). This latter name ("parson's
peak ") is much to be preferred to the cumbrous one on
the Dufour map (Studer, i. p. 279, note), and is mentioned
by Mr. Foster in 1868 (A. J. iv. p. 155) under the
form of "Pfarrerhorn."
1. From the S.W.
Ilerr R. Gerwer (pastor of Grindelwald), with Chr.
Michel, July 1865.
Studer, i. p. 279, and private information from the
late Herr Gerwer.
From the Biiregg Inn the first party went, by way of
the Lower Eismeer, the Ziisenberg huts, and the Ztisenberghorn,
to the N.W. foot of the peak. Thence they
climbed straight tip to the snowy S.W. ridge (reached
apparently at or near the Ochsenjoch), and gained the
summit by rocks, encountering one difficult smooth
slab.
2. From the N. or N.E.
The first party descended a little way along the crest
of the N.E. ridge, and then struck down N.W. -over
loose rocks to the E. end of the Grindelwald Fiescher*
flm, and so reached the Ziisenberg huts without touching
the Ziisenberghorn. A somewhat similar route was
taken by Mrs. Jackson's party, Jan. 6,1888 (A. J. xiv.
p. 204).
If starting (as is now usual) from the Schwarzegg Club

THE F1ESCHERH0RN GROUP 11
hut, the following ia the best route (2J his.). Cross the
Ober Eismeer to the moraine on its 1, bank, and follow
this moraine to the snow at the foot of the Ober Bugel,
Now mount S.W. by snow and an easy glacier to the
N.E. arSte, by the rooks of which the summit is attained
without difficulty (this is the route taken by Mr.
Coolidge, with Chr. Aimer, jr., and P. Aimer, June 1,
189S, Oe. A. Z. 1895, p. 317).
3- From the E.
Mrs. E. P. Jackson and Herr Emil Boss, with Ulrich
Aimer and Johann Kaufmann, Jan. 6,1888.
A. J. xiii. p. 466, xiv. p. 203.
The name " Klein Viescherhorn " is wrongly given to
this summit in A. J. xiii. p. 466. It has also been
called "Jacksonspitze" (S. A. C. J. xxvi. p. 507), and
is certainly the point (and not that marked S360 m.)
reached by Mrs. Jackson's party; in 1895 Mr. Coolidga
found there a piece of wood with that lady's name
carved on it.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut follow Rte. 2 to the
small glacier, and then bear S. to the rocky E. arete by
which the climb is completed (2J hrs.).
Ober Bugel, 2840 m., 9318 ft.
Unnamed on the S. map. That given above 19 the
local Grindelwald name.
Easily accessible by the S.W. ridge from the Small
glacier between it and the Pfaffenstockli. A cairn was
seen on the top by Mr. Coolidge, June 1, 1895, when on
his way up the last-named peak.
Zasenberghorn, 2343 m -» 7687 ft.
Easily reoched by its E. slope in 1 hr. from the Ziisenberg
huts (which are 1 hr. from the Biiregg Inn) at its
N. foot. A favourite excursion for summer visitors.

12 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
Fiescherjoch, no height given on the S. map, but
about 3850 m., 12,632 ft., according to Studer,
i. 257.
Just S.E, of the Ochsenhom, from the Schwarzegg
Club hut to the Walliser Fiescherfirn.
It is sometimes confused with the Ochsenjoch, and
even so named, but the two passes are entirely
distinct (A. J. xiii. p. 267, Studer, i. p. 274).
Sir L. Stephen, Revs. J. F. Hardy and H. A.
Morgan, and Dr. R. Liveing, with Chr.' and
Peter Michel, P. Baumann, Chr. Bohren, and
P. Inabnit, July 30, 1862 (A. J, i. p. 98, 105-
108, reprinted in Stephen, p. 155-161).
Aeby, p. 122-125. A. J. ix. p. 438, xiii. p. 267,
xv. p. 310. D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1890, p.
74. Pioneers, p. 158. S. A. C. J. xv. p. 520,
xxvi. 397, 507. It is probably the pass alluded
to by Hugi, i. p. 206, who, at p. 108, seems to
refer to the Ochsenjoch as well, imagining that
the last pass would lead direct to the Walliser
Fiescherfirn.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut cross the Ober Eismeer
in a S. direction to the foot of the torn glaciers descending
from the ridge over which the pass lies. Hence
several ways lead up (in about 4 hrs.) to the snowy
plateau or little plain that extends E. of the point
marked 8570 m. on the S. map, either by the first
or most W.ly of these glaciers (so the 1862 and 1874
parties), or by the rocky spur (gained low down from
that glacier) between that glacier and the next to the
E. (so the 1864 and 1890 parties), or by the most E.ly
of these glaciers (Mr. J. P. Farrar, 1897). Of course
this high plain can also be attained by way of the
Ochsenjoch (see above).

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP \%
From this little plain the 1868 and 1874 parties out a
long flight of steps vp the very steep lee or snow slope
direct to the actual depression of the pass (2-3 hrs.).
The 1890 party seems to have cut dovm the extremely
steep slope which forms the N. face of the ridge extending
from the Ochsenhorn to the pass (A. J. xv. p. 309).
But it is generally best (so In 1862,1864,1897) to cut up
the steep snowy spur that descends from the rounded
snowy summit, marked 3758 m. on the S. map, and
so to reach the watershed rather E. of the true pass
(2-3 hrs.—see this way dotted in on the diagram in
Aeby, p. 125).
From the pass a short descent, keeping to the r. of
some rocks, down a steep snow slope leads in J hr. to
the considerable snowy basin or plain, enclosed by the
three summits of the Fiescherhorner—by striking in a
slightly S.W. direction across it, it is easy to go in a
good hour to the Fieschersattel between the Gr. Fiescherhorn
and the Hinter Fiescherhorn (A. J. xiv. p. 156).
But the proper way (so to speak) from the pass bears
8.E. from this upper plain, and descends by a Somewhat
crevassed but not generally difficult glacier (the outflow
of the upper plain) to the more level portion of the
Walliser Fiescherflrn (|-1 hr.). Thence the Concordia
Inn can be gained in 24-3 hrs. by way of the Grvinhornlucke,
or the Oberaar Club hut in about the same time
by way of the Gemsliicke.
Hinter Fiescherhorn, 4020 m., 13,190 ft.
One can go from the Gr. Fiescherhorn to this summit
in 1 hr. (Purtscheller, p. 262, and Oe. A. Z. 1899,
p. 18).
I. By the N.E. ridge.
Ilerren G. Lammer and A. Lorria, July 28, 1885.
A. J. xii. p. 421, 424, xiii. p. 378, IX & Oe. Ai

14 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
Mitt. 1885, p. 185. S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 435-436.
Oe. A. Z. 1885, p. 197.
From the Fieschersattel (between the peak and the
Gr. Fiescherhorn) descend slightly to a sheltered snow
hollow to the li.E. Thence gain, over a bergschrund
and an ice slope, the N.E. ridge, the easy rocks of which
are followed to the summit (20 miu.).
2. From the N, W.
Same party, date, and references, with Purtscheller,
p. 263, Oe. A. Z. 1899, p. 18, and S. A. C. J.
xxxv. p. 306.
From the afore-mentioned snowy hollow cross the
bergschrund, and then climb up easy snow slopes to the
N.W. ridge, which Is followed to the top (20 min.).
3. From the 5", W.
Herren Ii. Purtscheller and K. Blodig, Aug. 3, J898
(Purtscheller, p. 203, Oe. A. Z. 1899, p. 19), on the descent,
followed the S.E. arete for a short way. "Then finding
it heavily corniched, they were forced to descend its
S.W. slope, quitting it apparently close under the S.E.
rocky point of the mountain (see Ete. 4 below). The
descent was effected by an extremely steep slope of snow
(then in excellent condition), with a great bergschrund
at its foot. In this way the Ewig Schneefeld was gained
(time not stated).
4. From the $•£* (Klein GrUnhornlllcke).
Ilerren Jos. Jl,iniger, Robert Winterhalter, and Joh.
Bolli, Sept. 7, 1899 (S. A. C. J. xxxv. p. 306).
From the Klein Grunhornliicke climb the good rocks
of the S.E. ridge, turning various gendarmes, to the S.E.
rocky summit of the mountain (about 1 hr.). Thence
descend into the gap at its N.W. foot, and continue up
easy rocks to the higher snowy peak (50 mln.).

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP IS
The rocky S.E. summit was ascended by Herr E, J.
Haberlin, with Peter Eubl and P. Baumann, July 14,
1871, in 2 hrs. 20 min. from, the Ewig Schneefeld by
means of easy snow sjopes and the rocky S.W. buttress,
the last bit by a craek in the rooks to the left
hand, requiring 20 min. Time did not allow the party
to go on to the higher summit, and they returned by
the way they had come up (S, A. C. J, vii. p. 532, viii.
P. 159-162).
Klein Griinhornliicke (no height given on the S.
map).
Between the Hinter Fiescherhorn and the Klein
Grunhom,from the Ewig Schneefeld to the WaU
User Fiescherfirn,
This well-marked depression separates the Grindelwalder
Fiescherhbrner from the Walliser Griinhorner.
It has not yet, however, been completely traversed.
According to the proof (formerly among the papers of
Mr, W. Longman, and now in the possession of Mr.
Coolidge) of an unpublished article meant for the Alpine
Journal, Sir J. H. Eamsay, with Peter Michel and
Peter Schlegel, Aug. 31, 1861, desiring to make an
attempt on one of the Fiescherhorner (at that time the
name Gr. Fiescherhorn was attributed on the Dufour map
to the true Ochsenhorn, S. A. C. J. ii. p. 519, and see
above), reached the Ewig Schneefeld by way of the
Monchjoch. They descended this snow-field for some
distance, then bore E. in order to attain the foot of the
Peak they had in view. They gained in this way a gap
somewhere in the GrUnhorn range (most probably our
S&P), and thence saw the desired peak (no doubt the
true Ochsenhorn) miles away, with a deep glacier valley
between them and it. They then proceeded to go down
a couloir (the best marked couloir in this range descends
straight from our gap), Which was found to be exposed

l6 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
to falling stones, but which was followed to the bergsehrund
at its lower end. It proved absolutely impossible
to get over this gaping chasm to the Walliser
Fiescherfirn, so that the party had to climb up the
couloir and regain the Monchjoch. Many years later,
Herren Jos. Liniger, B. Winterhalter, and Joh. Bolli,
Sept. 7,1899 (S. A. C. J. xxxv. p. 800), mounted from
the Ewig Schneefeld by an easy glacier in a N.E. direction
to the gap, which was gained after crossing a
rather bad bergschrund (2 hra. from the Ewig Schneefeld).
They assured themselves of the practicability of descending
to the Walliser Fiescherfirn (see the dotted line on
their diagram), but went on to the Hinter Fiescherhorn.
Walliser Griinhorner.
Save for the name of " Grttnhorn " (attributed to the
present Grttneck), which appears on the maps of Meyer,
Wyes, Eohrdorf, and Hugi, no peak in this range seems
to have borne any distinctive appellation till 1865,
although the Dufour map (reproducing the name of
•Grlinhorn for the Grttneck) gave heights to several of
its peaks, e.g. 4047 m., 8927 m., 3869 m., and 3287 m.
In 1865 Herr E. von Fellenberg christened the various
peaks as at present, and these names were adopted on
the later editions of the Dufour map (S. A. C. J. ii. p.
521-4, and A. J. ii. p. 253). For the geology of the
group, see S. A. C. J. xiv. p. 269.
Klein Griinhorn, 3927 m., 12,884 ft -
Herren G. Lammer and A. Lorria, Aug. 13, 1885.
A. J. xii. p. 421, 424, xiii. p. 382-3. D. & Oe. A. V.
Milt. 1885, p. 194. Oe. A. Z. 1S85, p. 220.
S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 435-
From the Ewig Schneefeld the first party mounted by
the broken glacier between the Hinter Fiescherhorn and
the peak, and by rocks gained the S.W. ridge of the

__ THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 17
Peak, which was followed to the summit (3J lirs.), first
by gentle, next by steep slopes, later by a long loe ridge,
gradually steepening, and finally by rooks.
Gross GrUnhorn, 4047 m., 13,278 ft.
Herr E. von Fellenberg, with Peter Egger, Teter
Michel, and Peter InSbnit, Aug. 7, 1865
(S. A. C. J. iii. p. 317-323, and A. J. ii. p. 268).
Moore (new ed.), p. 36X. A. J. xiii. p. 121, xv. p.
328. Oe. A. Z. 1886, p. 28s> 1894, pp. 11, 42,
1899. P- 43- D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1890,
p. 74. l8 94» p. 122.
(It would probably be possible to climb this peak from
ihe Walliser Fiescherflrn by way of the snowy hollow
between the Gr. GrUnhorn and the GrUneckhorn—Oe.
A. Z. 1899, p. 6).
Prom the Concordia Inn follow the Mcinchjoch route
for about 2 lira., or for about the same time If coming
from the Bergli Club hut. Then bear N.E. from the
Ewig Sohneefeld, and by a sometimes much crevassed
glacier, keeping either to the N. or S. of the central
most riven portion, mount to the upper snow plateau,
whence it 1* ea8 y to gain the gap (or a point near it)
between the peak and the ' GrUneckhorn (2-3 hrs.,
according to the state of the glacier). (The first party,
favoured by & u exceptional state of the snow, mounted
the great snowy S.W. 6iope to a ]lign point on tne
S.W. arCte (40 mm.), and followed it to the top in 40
min. more). Hence climb the rocky S.W. artUa to the
summit (1 to 2 nrs -' according to the state of the rocks).
GrUneckhorn.
I. N. Summh 3869 m., i2)694 ft.
Ascended by Herr G. Hasler,' with Peter Bernet,
Sept. 26,1» 03 ' in * *"' from the gap between the peak
and the Gross GrUnhorn, see above (A. J. xxl. p. 662).
2

18 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
2. S. Summit, 3810 m., 12,500 ft.
Ascended by Herr E. von Fellenberg, 1864, from the
Faulberg, by way of the easy S.W. snow slope (S. A.
C. J. iii. p. 318, and dotted line on diagram at p. 317*
and on the frontispiece).
GrUneck.
1. N.E. Summit, 3441 m., 11,290 ft.
Easily accessible by snow from the "W.
2. S.W. SummitK 3287 m., 10,785 ft.
Accessible by rocks from the N.W.
It was at the S. foot of this summit (probably where
stand the figures 2802 m. on the S. map) that the
Meyers set up their camp, Aug. 24-7 and Sept. 2-4,
1812 (Meyer, ii. p. 24-7, 32, 86, and 1852 Aljpenroten,
p. xxv-xxviii, xxxii).
Griinhornli, 3600 m., 11,812 ft.
Studer, Panorama von Pern, p. 214.
This point was visited by Signor Vittorio Sella, July
16,1884, for photographio purposes (see Nos. 175-9 in his
Catalogue). It was also visited by the late Mr. E. F. M.
Benecko and Mr. H. V. Reode, Aug. 13, 1893, who
mounted in 1 hr. from the Grtlnhorulltcke by loose
stones and rocks (walking, not climbing), and found an
empty bottle on the top.
Griinhornliicke, 3305 m., 10,844 ft*
Between the Griinhornli and Kamm,from the Concordia
Inn to the Walliser Piescherfim.
This wide snowy depression separates tho "Walliser
Griinhorner from the Walliser Fiescherhorner. It is
now mainly used by parties bound from Concordia
either to the Finateraarhorn (Rte. 2), or to the Oberaar
Club hut (5-6 hrs.) by the Gemslticke,

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 19
It was first crossed by Herr Rudolf Meyer, with
Arnold Abblihl, Kaspar Huber, Alois Volker, and
Josef Bortis, Aug. 17, 1812 (Meyer, ii. p. 21, and -1852
Alpenroaen, p. Xxiv), on his way from the Finsteraarhorn
and Gemslitcke to the Marjelensee (Aletsohsee).
See also Studer, Top, Mitt. p. 113, 134, 153, and
Panorama von Hern, p. 214, P. P. G. i. p. 293, 304,
Conway, p. 190, Alpina, 1903, p. 49, 208, Oe.' A. Z.
1897, p. 132,1901, p. 118,1902, p. 10, 98.
From the Concordia Inn mount N.E. by easy snow
slopes to the wide opening of the pass (1-1J hr.). On
the other side similar slopes lead down to the level
portion of the Walliser Fiescherfirn (J hr.).
Walliser FiescherhBrner.
The long chain which extends from the Grltnhorn-
Woke S. to the Marjelensee bears the above name only
on the maps of Meyer, Wyss, Eohrdorf, and Hugi, save
that Meyer's and Rohrdorf's maps also mark the " Faul
Berg " not far from the spot farther S.E. which served
as a bivouao from 1858 till the construction of the
Club hut at Concordia in 1876. As late as 1864 the
Dufour map attributed the name of "Waunehorn"
only to the point now known as the Klein Wannehorn
(0. A. C. J. ii. p, 189, 624), the name Wannehorn being
• local name which Hew Gottlieb Studer learnt before
isnr tr ° m tha natives ( T °P' MUt P- 107 >*
But iu
1860, owing once more to the exertions of Herr E. von
ijelleiiberg, the names "Gross •Wannehorn," "Klein
Wannehorn," and "Schonbuhlhom" were proposed,
and were adopted on the later editions of the Dufour
T? I s * Ai c - J - "• p- B24 > and A - J - "• P- 253 >' Tllat
•1 „ m r a " (° a

20 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
tione

THE FIESCHERRORN GROUP 2t
cordia Club hut) the Weissnollen (3609 m.), descended
slightly from that point to the great snow-fields on its
"•• an 424) xiiii p- 3g4_8# s> A< c< j,
«U p. 434-5. Oe. A. Z. 1885, p. 220-1. D. &
Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1885, p. 194.
From the Concordia Inn go down to the Great Aletsch
glacier, and follow the moraine on its 1. bank till it is
possible to get through it to the grassy slopes of Inner
BcuonbUhl. Then mount grass and debris to the E.
loot of the main S.W. arfite (which rises just N.E. of

?2 THE FIESCHEKHORN GROUP
the word " Inner " on tlie S. map), and gain its crest by
an easy gully. This arete is at first easy, but gradually
steepens, and is finally blocked by a deeply cut notch,
above which is a Bteep rock face. .The first party, with
great .difficulty, got round this face on its E. (r. hand)
slope [ but Mr. J. A. Luttman-Johnson, with A. Gentinetta
and F. (Weisshorn) Biener, Sept. 15, 1892 (A. J.
xvi. p. 461, and S. A. C. J. xxix. p. 267), found it better
from the notch to climb down the gully to the 1. hand
(W.) for a few steps, next to clamber straight up a
40 ft. chimney, and then to traverse loose but not
difficult rocks, in order to regain the arete above this
notch. Beyond, the S.W. arete is shattered, though
not diffioult, and higher up it becomes a broad crest
with slabs arranged like a staircase. In this way the
steep little hanging glacier on the S.W. flank of the
peak (marked too high on the S. map) is gained, and by
It and the rotten rocks of the S.W. flank, and finally
along the W. arCte, the summit is attained (5-6 hrs.
from Concordia, «S the climb is far longer than might
be imagined when examined from below, or by reason of
the moderate height to be surmounted, 8356 ft.). All
•of the few- parties recorded (A. J. xvi. p. 461, Marsh,
p. 123-4, 177-181, and Oe. A. Z. 1895, p. 243) seem to
have made the aseent by the S.W. arete (this route can
be well followed on No. 203 of Signor V, Sella's photographs,
taken from the Aletschhorn), but on the descent
a number of various routes are open to the mountaineer.
The first party left the S.W. arete rather above the
difficult' bit, and then bore to the r. (W.S.W.), by a
series of rocky slabs, ledges, and gullies, to the considerable
enow-field (not shown on the S. map, but well seen
on S'gnor V. Sella's Panorama from the Aletschhorn,
No. 203) lying between the S.W. and W. ridges. At
its foot it is necessary to turn, by zigzags to the L, a
rocky precipice, over which springs a fine waterfall,

THE FIESCHERHORKTGROUP 33
and so Inner Schb'nbithl is regained. Messrs. H. Marsh
and H. W. Topham, June 29,' 1893 (Marsh, p. 178-9),
seem to have taken this route from Concordia up to the
S.W. arete as well as down (p. 180-1). Mr. J. A.
Luttman-Johnson's party (A. J. xvl. p, 461) took what
seems to be a better route on the descent. From the
summit 'he bore to the 1. (S.), and by a snow gully,
running down from' the ridge just below the small
banging glacier, gained the lateral glacier (quite distinct
from the Schonbiihl glacier) which lies between' the
S.W, arete and a rooky rib more to the E. A glissade
down the entire length of this lateral glacier led back
to Inner Schbnbiihl. Mr. Walter Larden, with Daniel
Maqulgnaz, June 29, 1895 (Oe. A. Z. 1895, p. 243), from
the top descended " S. over a small glacier, and then by
a ridge nearly parallel to the main S.W. arete," by
which he had ascended—most probably this is the rib
(mentioned above) which is just E. of the lateral glacier
traversed by the 1892 party.
Faulberg Pass.,
• Messrs. H. Marsh and H. W. Topham, June 27, 1893
(Marsh, p. 170), from the Concordia Inn kept along the
W. face of the Faulberg, and then worked up BOine
hard rocks and a sloping ledge, which ran diagonally
across the mountain face, to a point 50 ft. below the
deep notch between Kanim and the Faulberg, this notch
being at last attained (3 hrs. from Conoordia) by working
round a steep snow patch in a very unstable condition.
Time preventing an attempt on Kamm by its
great W. arete, the party descended on the other side
by a narrow gully to a broad patch of avalanohe snow,
and .skirted round the S,W. base of the Faulberg back to
the Concordia Inn.
Faulberg, 3244 m., 10,644 ft.
No information.

24 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
Schonbiihlhorn, 3864 m., 12,678 ft.
MM. L. Kurt and A. Barbey, with Seller, and
Albrecht, July 13, 1884.
S. A. C. J. xx. p. 141, 145-9. A. J. xii. p. 479.
Echo des Alpes, 1884, p. 314.
The first party, starting from tlie Oberaar Club hut,
went by way of the Rotloch, the Wfllliser Fiescherfirn,
and the steep and crevassed snow slopes N.E. of the
peak to the base (0. 8fi30 m.) of its N.E. artite (5J hrs.).
This arete (loose and rotten rocks) was followed more or
less to the summit (8} hrs.), it being necessary at one
point to climb the rock wall on the r., and higher up to
take to its other slope, while passing the r. hand over
the very sharp crest of the ridge.
On the descent the first party followed the S.E. arete
of the peak till near the depression between It and the
Gross Wannehorn, and thence descended a long snow
couloir (the uppermost bit, being ice, was turned by
rocks) to the E. portion of the SchOnbtthl glacier.
Huge crevasses forced the party to bear 1. towards the
base of the Gross Wannehorn, the snow was very soft,
and the heat overpowering, so that 2 hrs. SO min. were
employed to go from the summit to the grass at the
foot of the Herbrigsgrat, and as much more to reach
the Hotel on the Eggishorn.
Gross Wannehorn, 3905 m., 12,812 ft.
A Panorama from the summit, drawn by Herr
Gottlieb Studer in 1864, is given in the "Beilagen"ofS.
A. C. J. ii.
Ileiren G. Studer and R. Lindt, -with Kaspar
Blatter and Peter Sulzer, Aug. 6, 1864 (S. A.
C. J. ii. 181, J87-207).
S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 471. Oe. A. Z. 1899, P- »-5-
From the Oberaar Club hut in 2-3 hrs. by way of the

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 2$
Gemslttcke, or from the Concordia Inn in about the same
time, reach the foot of the rocky rib which flows N.E.
from nearly the summit of the peak, and is to the W.
°f aud parallel to the Triftgrat. Hence mount S.W.
by the glacier between these two ridges, which is somewhat
orevassed below, but ends above in a snowy uncrevassed
terrace. The watershed is attained some way
W. of the point 3515 m. of the Triftgrat. A first
lower snowy summit is attained, and 10 min. beyond,
by a sharp though short ridge (snowy at first, then
rocky), is the culminating rocky summit of the mountain
(3-4 hrs. from the base, according to the state of
the snow).
The first party (S. A. C. J. ii. p. 199-203) descended
in about 4 hrs. to the edge of the Great Aletsch glacier,
From the snowy top they went down the rocky ridge
(shown on the S. map) which divides the Wannehorn
glacier (no name on the S. map) into two portions, and
on which many loose stones were found. A gully
(falling stones) on the E. side at last gave access to the
foot of a rooky band, and so to the snows of the glacier,
which were descended to the scanty sheep pastures of
Rinderturren, whence the Eggishorn Hotel was attained
in 3 hrs, more.
Triftgrat, 3515 m., 11,533 ft., and 3269 m.,
10,726 ft.
The former snowy point is easily reached by bearing
to the S. from the ordinary way from the Walliser
Fiescherfirn up the Gross Wannehorn, described above.
It was visited in 1891 by Herr Emit Burckhardt (S. A.
0. J. xxvii. p. 471).
Klein Wannehorn, 3717 m., 12,195 ft -
The Rev. Sedley Taylor, Messrs. W.JH. Gladstone,

86 THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP
and C. S. Tartar, with Fridolin Schwick and
J. TSnnler,' Aug. 23, 1866.
A. J. ii. p. 411.
The first party reached the summit in about 8 lira,
from the Eggishorn Hotel, climbing N. from the K. end
of the Marjelensee, apparently over the rooky ridge
extending between the points of the Strahlgrat marked
3330 m. and 8279 m., after having failed to force the
ridge running N.E. to S3S0 m. The descent was effected
direct to the Great Aletsoh glacier by easy snow slopes,
but the last few hundred feet were found to be.steep
and difficult.
Messrs. J. J. Withers and Gifford Raunford, with
H. Zurfliih and M. Anderegg, jr., Sept. 8,1893 (Studerr
i. p.'351, based on a letter addressed to Mr. Coolidge by
Mr. Withers, under date March 4, 1894), took a partly
new route on the descent, which is shorter than the
ordinary snow route from the Great Aletsoh glacier, and
also affords some excellent rock climbing. '' They came
down the snow slope directly under the summit, -on the
6.W., and traversed the ice and snow slopes to the
point on the 8. arCte of the peak, directly under
the second of the great rock teeth on that arete.
Having got on to the arCte, they followed the very
interesting rocks on the ridge (which afforded excellent
climbing for about an hour) to a point on. the arete just
above an ice couloir, which runs up from the E. between
the point just mentioned and that marked 3330 m.
on the S. map. Descending the rock's to the E. of the
ridge, they gained and crossed the couloir, and mounting
some very steep rock chimneys on the other'side of
the couloir, and a short, steep snow slope, reached the
nameless glacier descending immediately to the S. of
the point marked 8330, whence they ran down, over the
glacier and easy rook andgrass slopes, to the Miirjelen Alp."

THE FIESCHERHORN GROUP 27
The Klein Wannehorn is doubtless easily climbed
from the Trift glaoler on the E., but this route does
n °t seem to have been yet recorded.
Distelgrat, 3085 m., 10,122 ft.
Strahlgrat, 3330 m., 10,926 ft.; 3279 m., 10,758 ft.;
3104 m., 10,184 ft.; 3080 m., 10,105 ft -J etc -
No Information.
Either ridge might be explored in the course of a
short day's climbing from the Eggishorn Hotel.

SECTION II
The Finsteraarhorn Group
FROM THE FINSTEBAARJOCII TO ALTMANN
Finsteraarjoch, 3300 m., 11,120 ft.
Between point 3390 m, of the StrahlegghSrner and the
Agassizhorn, from the Schwarzegg Club hut to
the Dollfuss Club hut.
The Finsteraar glacier is mentioned by Gruner (i. p.
43-4, 49-5°), and this opening is very conspicuous
from near Grindelwald.
Hugl (i. p. 107,112) in 1830 apparently alluded to tlie
pass, while it is clearly'mentioned in 1843 by Mr. Malkin
(A. J. xv. p. 122) and in 1844 by Studer {Top. Mitt.
p. 84, 138). It was apparently traversed in 1826 by
Ilerr Wagner of Hesse Cassel, with Peter Baumann and
Ulrich Wittwer (Joanne, 1st edition, p. 830, Studer's
Panorama von Bern, p. 76, Studer, 1. p. 225), the party
having lost their way on the glaciers. It was certainly
crossed by the Rev. H. B. George, with Christian Aimer,
July 28, 1862, and then christened "Finsteraarjoch,"
a very appropriate name (A. J. i. p. 250-3). Nowadays
it is rarely used as a pass, and generally merely as a

___JHE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP 29
Weans ot access to the Agassizjoch for parties ascending
the Finsteraarhorn from the Schwarzegg Club hut.
Desor, ii. p. 177. A. J. ii. p. 268, iii. p. 208, iv. p.
*55, 317, vi. p. 146, 297, x»i. p. 269, xiv. p. 249, xviii.
P. 64, xix. p. 91. Ball, p. 117. S. A. C. J. ii. p. 628,
«. p. 163, xxi. p. 83, 59, xxix. p. 134. Oruner (i. p.
43-4, 49-50) describes the Finsteraar glacier.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut follow the Strahlegg
route in a S.E. direction over the Ober Grindelwald
Eismeer, till the Strahlegg route bends sharp to the E.
Continue to follow a S.E. direction for a short way,
then climb to the 1. up a rock rib in the direction of the
Old Strahlegg. Bear gradually to the S.,cross a secondary
glacier, and So gain the plateau above the very broken
icefall descending from the pass. Now cross a steep
snow slope, bearing S., in order to attain the summit of
the pass (4 hrs. from the Schwarzegg Club hut).
On the other side of the pass descend at first along the
foot of the ridge on the 1. hand, then cross the glacier to
its r.' bank, and work round the icefall, keeping close
Under the Finsteraarhorn: 1 hr. 20 min. suffice for the
descent from the pass to the junction of the Finsteraar
glacier with the Unteraar glacier, and the ordinary
route from the Strahlegg.
Agassizhorn, 3956 m., 12,980 ft.
So named in 184a by Desor,, in honour of Louis
Agassiz (1807-1873) the celebrated glacialist, and
his companion in his observations on the Unteraar
glacier (Desor, i. p. 162, and Studer, Top. Mitt.
p. 172, and Fanorama from the Siedelhorn). It
is the one peak which is visible both from
Grindelwald and the Grimsel Hospice.
Rev. \V. A. B. Coolidge, with Ulrich Aimer and
Chr. Inabnit, Sept. 7, 1872.

30 THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP
A. J, iii. p. 93, vi. p. 146. Studer, Panorama von
Bern, p. 218. S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 36 (xiii. p. 675,
really refers to the pass, not to the peak).
0e. A. Z. 1892, p. 224. Studer, i. p. 341, 536.
From the Agasslzjoch. follow the easy S.E. arete to
the summit (20 min.). The peak ruay be reached from
Concordia in about 5 hrs. by way of the Grlinhornliicke.
Agassizjoch, 3850 m., 12,632 ft.
Between the Agassizhorn and the Finsteraarhorn,
from the Finsteraarjoch to the Fiescher glacier.
Revs. J. J. Hornby and T. II. Philpott, and Mr. F.
Morshead, with Chr. Alrner, Chr. Lauener, and
J. Anderegg, Aug. 8, 1866.
A. J. ii. p. 4»I, iii. p. 86, 92-5, iv. p. 155, vi. p.
146, 297, xiii. p. 269, xiv. p. 249, xviii. p. S3-
S. A. C. J. ix. 159-161, 164-7, 53°. "iii. p. 675,
xxi. p. 36-7, xxviii, p. 489. Pioneers, p. 93.
Studer, i. p. 117, 340-1.
The great couloir descending from the pass ends at a
point slightly to the S. of the summit-level of the
Fiusteranrjoch (4 hrs. from the Schwarzegg Club hut),
but its foot can be easily gained from that pass, without
losing height, by a traverse round the lowest slope of
the Agassizhorn. The ascent of this great couloir is not
difficult in itself, but takes very different times under
different conditions. The first party, in a snowy year,
and finding the snow in the couloir in excellent condition,
occupied 2 hrs. from the summit of one pass to the
Other. But if there is much step-outting this time may
be greatly exceeded. 3 hrs. is a fair average time. The
last bit of the ascent may be effected by means of a
rock rib, CIOBO under the Agassizhorn. The couloir
gradually steepens towards its upper end.

THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP JI
On the other side gentle snow slopes lead down in
S l>r. or so to the level of the Walliser Fiescherfirn,
whence by the GrUuhornliieke it is 2-3 hrs. over to the
Concordia Inn.
Finsteraarhorn, 4275 m., 14,026 ft.
By an odd fatality this summit, the highest in the
Bernese Oberland, and one that presents so striking an
appearance from Berne, from Grindelwald, from the
Grimsel, and the Furka, and the Upper Valais, seems to
have long been confounded with its lower neighbours.
Probably it is the " Sohreckshorn " of Schopf 'a text and
""P. 1577-8 ("Simler," p. 250* and 46**, and map,
also given fa g. A. 0. J. xxxvi. p. 216; see too
S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 240). Schopf in his text attributes
to his "Sohreckshorn" also the name of "I^adel"
(which, despite Gruner, i. p. 70, Is generally supposed to
belong to the Finsteraarhorn and not to the true
Schreckhorn), so that he probably wrongly transferred
to our summit the name of " Sohreckshorn." In 1608
Rebmann (p. 481) sings of the " fluster Aar," the river
which rises in Hasle. In 1706 Hottinger, describing
the peaks visible from Grindelwald, twice mentions
(p. 72, 75) the " Finschhorn "; but he certainly means
the Fiescherhorn, for just above he had spoken of the
village of " Finsch •' in the Valais, meaning no doubt
Piesch; in 1723 Scheuuhzer (p. 2S9), quoting from
Hottinger, writes correctly " Fieschhorn." In 1760
Gruner marks "Finsteraarhorn" on his map (No. 28),
and mentions it thrice in his text (L p. 46, 60), as well
to lu the list of names of the peaks depicted on his
illustration opposite p. 44. But the first full description
dates from 1789, when Coxa (ii. p. 301-2) gives a
notice of our peak, under the name of " Finster-Aarhorn,"
and states that it seems to exceed in height even

33 THE FWSTERAAR110RN GROUP
the Schreckhorn, previously supposed to have been the
loftiest summit — thin description of Coxe rests on
the authority of Samuel Wyttenbach, the well-known
writer, from whom Coxe obtained it probably in 1785-6,
during one of his visits to Berne (A. J. xiv. p. 322-3).
In 1795 Stettler, descending from the Gauli Pass
towards the Grimsel, gives quite a long description of
Our peak, under the name " Finsteraarhorh," expressly
stating that it Is the highest snow peak in Switzerland
(S. A. 0. J. xxxl. p. 359). Henceforth it appears on all
the maps—Weiss, Meyer, and Wyss.
The name "Nadel" is attributed to this summit
perhaps by Scho'pf in 1577 (text only, see above), by
Studer (Panorama von Bern, p. 218), and others (S. A.
C. J. xxviii. p. 240), and this name well- suits the appearance
of our peak, when seen from Berne. But Gruner
(i. p. 70), followed by Ober (ii. p. 123), is of opinion
(probably through some confusion) that the name of
Nadel really belongs to the Schreckhorn. In the Valais
the Finsteraarhorn is sometimes called " SchWarzhorn "
(Desor, i. 'p. 364 note, Studer, Top. Mitt. p. 148, and
Panorama von Hern, p. 218), a name which well describes
its black and formidable appearance as a great
rock wall, when seen from that region.
See In general A. J. viii. Appendix, p. 64 sqq.,
S. A. C. J. xv. p. 570-1, Studer, 1. p. 82 sqq., and
Meyer, i. p. 18, 30. For its geology see S. A. C. J. ii
p. 311; for its botany, ibid. viii. p. 630-1, ix. p. 631,
and xix. p, 269 ; and for a circular rainbow, seen near
the summit, in 1890, A. J. xv. p. 829.
As a curiosity it may be recorded that the Finsteraarhorn
is not visible from the Grimsel Hospice itself (the
peak thence seen is the Agassizhorn), though it is
from quite close by, while it is visible from the W.
half of the village of Grlndelwald (A. J. Ix. p. 485),
though it is not seen from the E. half (including the

THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP 33
parish church). Hence the green fields and numerous
houses in the W. bit of the Grindelwald valley are well
seen from the top (A. J. xv. p. 260), contrary to the
assertion in the D. & Oe. A. V. Zeitschrift, 1889,
P. 411.
'• fy the S.E. arlte.
On Aug. 16, 1812, Herr Eudolf Meyer, with Alois
Volker, Josef Bortis, Kaspar Huber, and Arnold
Abbtihl, from a bivouao on the Gemsliicke descended on
to the Studerfirn, and mounted thence to a " minor
summit" 011 the S.E. arete, whence they could see the
%hest summit (Meyer, ii. p. 16-18, and 1852 Alpenrosen,
p. xix-xxi). Here Herr Meyer stayed, with
Huber, while the three other guides climbed up in 3
hrs. to the highest summit, and there planted a flag
(*W. p. 19-20, and xxii). Then the whole party,
from the minor summit, descended S.W. on to the main
Jiescher gl., and mounted again to their bivouao on the
Gemshtcke {find. p. 20-1, and xxiii).
The fact of the complete ascent by the three guides has
been called in question, but the genuine text of Herr
Meyer's narrative (published in the Alpenrosen for 1852),
a nd the experiences of later parties, make it practically
certain that these three brave men really did accomplish
the feat of climbing the Finsteraarhorn on the first
attempt. See the arguments against their success in
Hugi, i. p. 172, S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 385, Desor, i. p. 398,
n °te, P. P. G. i. p. 801, 308, A. J. viii. p. 268, and
^ A. F. Ann. iii. p. 397 (the two latter articles by
M. H. Cordier). The arguments in favour of the success
of the three guides are (apart from Herr Meyer's narrative)
in A. J. viii. p. 269, and Appondix, p. 65-6, Wyss,
P. 768, note, Herr Gottlieb Studer's detailed artiole In
8 - A. O. J. xvii, p. 407-424, his remarks in his " Panorama
von Bern," p. 220, and the new edition of his " Ueber
3

34 THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP
Eis und Schnee," 1. p. 98-100, Herr Lindt In S. A. C. J.
i. p. 274-275, Mr. Farrar's nota in A. J. xi. p. 369, and
Herr Blezinger'g careful notes In the D. & Oe. A. V.
Zntsclirtft, 1883, p. 507-9.
See In general aB to this route, Herr J. Meurer's
remarks in the Oe. A. Z. 1881, p. 157-8, and Herr G.
Hasler's paper in the Deutsche Alpenzeilunff, ii. p.
117-122.
The upper portion of the S.E. arfite can be reached
from either the E. or the S.W., the former being the
most direct route from the Oberaar Club hut, while the
second is the most direct way from the Concordia Inn,
though in this case the foot of the ascent may also be
gained from the Oberaar Club hut by way of the Gemsliicke.
a. Reached from the E. (Studerfirn).
After 1812 this route was rarely taken till 1898.
In 1883 Mr. J. P. Farrar avid Herr C. Blezinger, with
Peter Dangl and J. Kederbacher (A. J. xi. p. 868, and
D. & Oe. A. V. Zeitsclirtft, 1883, p. 604-6, and 1889,
p. 412, S. A. Z. ii. p. 101-3), and in 1884 HerrBodenehr,
with Andreas and J. von Weissenfluh (S. A. C. J. xx.
p. 459-466), accomplished this feat. In 1898 four
Meiringen guides (Kaspar Kohler, Benedict and Albert
Huggler, and II. Kieder) placed a fixed rope in the cleft
between the "minor summit" and the highest summit
(A. J. xx. p. 142). This greatly facilitates the climb,
which was effected, July 17, 1899, by Herren Albert
Weber and J. M. Kammenzind, with J. Tannler
(S. A. C. J. xxxv. p. 421) J while Mr. A. V. Valentine
Bichards and the Eev. W. C. Compton, with Abraham
Mliller and Siegfried Burgeuer, Aug. 30,1899 (A. J. xx.
p. 143), having reached the S.E. arete from the S.W.,
•completed the ascent by this route. Herr G. Hasler,
with Chr. Jossl, Sept. 80, 1902, descended by this way

THE FWSTERAARHORN GROUP 35
from the highest point, taking 1 hr. 35 min. to the
spot .-whence he struck down the S.W. side of the
mountain (Deutsche Alpenxeitmig, ii. p. 121-2). In
1903 Mr. Farrar repeated his 1883 route (Oe. A. Z. 1904,
P. 31).
From the Oberaar Club hut go N.W. over the Studerfirn
to the S.E. foot of the great snow and ice slope
which descends from the S.E. arOte to the Studerfirn in
the direction of the Ober Studerjoch (this depression is
not actually touched by the traveller), and flows just
S.E. of the main rocky mass of the mountain. After
crossing the bergschrund at the base of this great slope,
one or other of various routes may be taken to the crest
of the S.E. arete (about 3-3$ hrs. from the Club hut). The
1812 party seem to have at first climbed up along the
N. edge of this great slope, cutting steps, but to have
later taken to the rooks on its N., and so to have gained
the "minor summit" (see below), without previously
touching the S.E. art'te, in 8 hrs. from the bergschrund
(Meyer, ii. p. 17-18, Alpavrosen, p. xx, and Herr
Blezinger's acute remarks in the D. & Oe. A. V.
Zeitschrift, 1883, p. 608-9). In lg84 llerr Bodenehr's
party kept more to the S. on the great snow slope, and
reached the crest of the S.E. arSle just to the N.W. of
the rocky tower (the central of three) which is the
culmination of the rock -wall that descends to the
Studerfirn, and forms the S.E. limit of the great snow
slope (see his diagram in S. A. C. J. xx. p. 463, and his
text at p. 460). This route was also taken in 1898 by
the four guides, and probably in 1899 by Herr A. Weber
and party. But it seems best either to aim for a
higher point on the arete, one just N.W. of the highest
of the three rock tower* (so the 1883 party), or to bear
even more still to the Jtf. and to continue by the Meyer
party's route along the N. edge of the great ice slope,
straight to the crest, without (as it did) taking .to the

36 THE F1NSTERAARH0RN GROUP
rocks on the N. Steep snow and a very steep ice slope
lead in any case to the crest of the arete (2J-3 hrs, from
the bergsehrund). A sharp snow ridge, studded with
rocky needles, must now be more or less followed, various
obstacles (rock towers or snow corniches) on the ridge
itself being turned on the E. side. In this way you attain
the "minor summit," which has for some time masked
the culminating point of the mountain (1J-2 hrs. from
the point at which the S.E. arete was struck to the
"minor summit"). This "minor summit" seems
to have been the spot where Herr Meyer and K.
Huber stopped—it is the culminating point of the great
rocky spur which descends S.W. to the Walliser
Fiescherflrn, and the foot of which is marked S536 m.
on the S. map (see A. J. viii. p. 265, zi. p. 868, zx,
p. 143); its height is estimated at 4175 m. (A. J. zi.
p. 368); while it is the point a, of Herr Blezinger (Zeit-
BchHft, 1883, p. 508), Though the horizontal distance
hence to the highest summit is only about 350 m. (about
383 yards), and the vertical height only about 100 m.
(about 328 ft.), 2-3 hrs. are required to cover it, save
under very favourable circumstances (Mr. Valentine
Richards, in 1899, took only 2-2J hrs. from the point at
which he, like the 1883 party, struck the arete, to the
top). A slight and short descent leads to the foot of
the final peak. Here (fastened over a smooth rock slab
—which can be turned by a slight descent—and up a
gully on the S.W. side of the arete) is the fixed rope, by
means of which the steep cliff is more easily scaled (in
20 min. by the English party of 1899) than formerly.
In this way the arGte above the obstacle is regained,
and leads easily in a few minutes to the S. end of the
highest summit ridge, the very slightly higher N. end
being gained in a few steps more.
Reckon 7-8 hrs. from the Oberaar Club hut by this
route.

THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP 37
t>. Reached from (he S. W. (Fiescher glacier).
It is impossible to determine now tlie exact line of
descent taken by the Meyer party in 1812, as all they
say is that the descent was far easier than the route
taken from the Studerfirn on the ascent, and that it was
effected by rock ribs and glissades over snow (Meyer, ii.
p. 20, and 1852 Alpenrosen, p. xxiii). It is not stated
whether or not from the "minor summit" the party
followed the S.E. ridge a little way down before descending,
but this course seems (judging from photos of that
side of the mountain) to be most probable. On July 15,
1876, M, Henri Cordier, with Jakob Anderegg and Kaspar
Maurer (A. J. viii. p. 109, 264, 0. A. F. Ann. iii. p.
398, and C. A. F. bulletin, 1876, p. 209), starting from the
Rotkloch, mounted—keeping some way E. of the point
marked 3237 m. on the S. map, and bearing slightly to
the 1. hand—to the crest of the S.E. arete (3 hrs.), which
was struck probably near or at the spot gained in 1883
from the Studerfirn. The same line was probably
followed in 1875 by Mr. T. Middlemore on an attempt
(Pioneers, p. 75, and A. J. viii. p. 267), and in Sept.
1877 by Mr. H. Seymour Hoare, with Hans von Bergen
and Kaspar Streieh, on a successful ascent (Pioneers,
p. 70). This route was also taken from Concordia,
Aug. 4, 1887, by Mr. O. H. Morse, with Ulrich and
Hans Aimer (A. J. xiil. p. 422); and aga?n, Aug. 30,
1899, by Mr. Valentine Richards' party (A. J. xx.
p. 143).
If starting from the Oberaar Club hut, follow the
ordinary route thence (Rte. 2 below) up the peak till
below the rock wall formed by the S.E. arete on this
side, then bear N. to the foot of that wall (3-4 hrs. from
the Oberaar Club hut). If coming from Concordia, the
ordinary route thence (Rte, 2 below) is followed to the
usual "breakfast-place," about 1J-1J hr. above the

38 THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP
level of the Fiescherfirn (3-3J hrs.), then bear to the r.,
and skirt round the S. base of 3536 m. to the foot of the
wall to its N.E. The bergschrund at the foot of the
two snow couloirs so conspicuous from the Griinhornlticke
must now he crossed, and then one of the aforementioned
couloirs, or the red rocks between them,
ascended to the crest of the S.E. ridge (1-1J hrs.),
whence a. above is followed to the summit of the peak. ,
Keckon about 7 hrs. by this route from either Club
hut.
2. From the N. W. or the Hugisattel.
This is now the usual route, whether from Concordia
or from the Oberaar Club hut (6-7 hrs. in either case).
In 1811, in the course of their Jungfrau journey, the
Meyers convinced themselves of the possibility and
easiness of climbing the Finsteraarhorn from the W.,
and formally announced their decision to make the
attempt in 1812 (Meyer, i. p. 18, 30). But on Aug. 16,
1812, they tried it from the S.E. (see above), though
descending on the S.W. to the Fiescher glacier. Herr
Eudolf Meyer, however, at once decided to make another
attempt, this time from the W. side, so well seen when
he crossed the GrUnhornlUcke on Aug. 17, and for that
purpose bivouacked, Aug. 24-7, at the foot of the
Griineck, though bad weather prevented him from
making a start (Meyer, li. p. 20, 24, 27, and 1852
Alpenrosen, xxiil, xxv, xxvii).
On Aug. 19,1828, F. J. Hugi, with seven guides, from
a bivouac on the Gemslticke attained, most probably by
the route now followed, the llugisattel, but was prevented
from pushing on by bad weather (Hugi, 1. p.
185-195). A second attempt, Aug. 4,1829, did not allow
the party to even leave their bivouao (Hugi, 1. p. 201), at
the W. foot of the peak. A third attempt, Aug. 10,
182D, was more successful, since from the last named

THE FWSTERAAKHOKN GROUP 39
bivouao the whole party reached the Huglsattel, 'while
two of the guides (J. Leutholcl and J. Wahren) pushed
ou to the summit (Hugi, i. p. 208-9).
In 1842 Hetr J. Sulger's guides (Andreas Abplanalp
and J. Jaun) attained the Bummit on Aug. 16 (Studer's
Panoraina von Hern, p. 222, and Desor, i. 634, note).
Finally, on Sept. 6, 1842, these two guides (with H.
Lorentz, the "Senner" of the Grimsel) led Herr J.
Sulger to the top (Studer's Top. Mitt. p. 154, S. A. C. J.
"vi. p. 420-2, and Desor, 1. p. 526), starting from
Hugi's bivouac at the W. foot of the peak. Herr Sulger
was thus the first traveller to attain the summit; but he
expressly points out that some iron rods, a rusty nail,
and some threads were found on the top, proving that
human beings had been there before him.
It was probably by this route that the Sohlagintweits,
led by Jaun, attempted, Aug. 14, 1851, the ascent, after
passing a night ou the Gemsliicke. This party seems to
have reached the "breakfast-place" (Schlagintweit,
p. 22-3).
It was only on Aug. 13, 1857, that, on occasion of the
fifth ascent, the now usual route from the Gr. Aletsch
glacier by way of the Griinhornliicke, was struck out by
a large party, consisting of the Rev. J. F. Hardy,
Messrs. Ellis, St. John and William Mathews, and E.
S. Kennedy, with Auguste Simond, J. B. Croz, J. Jaun,
Alois Bortis, and Alexander Guntern (P. P. G. 1.
p. 291-303).
The name "Hugisattel" occurs first on some copies
(not all) of the 1862 edition of sheet xviii (published in
1855) of the Bufour Map, and on all copies of the 1886
edition of that sheet (information courteously supplied
by Prof. J. H. Graf and Lieut.-Col. L. Held, head of
the Federal Topographical Bureau).
A. J. 1. p. 319, viii. p. 267, x. p. 419, xi. p. 369, xii. p.
422, xiil. p. 888, xv. p. 289. S. A. C. J. 1. p. 273 sqq.,

40 THE FINSTERAARIIORN GROUP '
ix. p. 531, xx. p. 466. Alpina, 1806, p. 74,1903, p. 49.
C. A. F. Ann. iii. p. 399, and xxvi. p. 78-80, 93 sqq.
C. A. F. Bulletin, 1876, p. 209. Jiivista Menaile, 1888,
p. 215. Oe. A. Z. 1881, 137-144, 1883, p. 350, 1885,
p. 221, 1889, pi 34, 1902, p. 10, 98. Jahrbuch of the
Austrian Alpina Club, ix. p. 100-2. D. & Oe. A. V.
Zeitschrift, 1883, p. 506, 1889, p. 407 sqq. D. & Oe. A.
V. Mitt. 1883, p. 71, 1885, p. 271, 1889, p. 239, 1890,
p. 77. Marsh, p. 166-9. Wundt, p. 96 sqq. Tyndall,
Glaciers of the Alps, p. 104-119. Eclio desAlpes, No. 3,
1865, p. 1-14, 1868, p. 1-11,1886, p. 100,1899, p. 85-40.
Wyss, p. 718. Koth, ii. passim..
From the Concordia Inn cross the Grttnhornliicke to
the level of the Walliser Fiesoherflrn (about 2 hrs.).
Then cross that glacier to the foot of the long rocky
S.W. ridge, which runs direct to the top, and the foot
of which is marked 3120 m. on the S. map. Mount
the easy snow elopes just S.E. of this rocky rib till
you reach (1|-1J hr.) the "breakfast-place" on that
ridge.
Here the usual route from the Oberaar Club hut,
by way of the Geiuslucke and a long traverse in
a N.W. direction across eteep snow elopes, falls
in i reckon 6-7 hrs. from the Oberaar Club hut
to the top by this route.
Now cross to the 1. hand over this ridge, in order to
attain, above the broken part of that great tongue of the
glacier, the second set of easy snow slopes which lead up
to the llugisattd, 4089 m., 13,416 ft. (U-1J hr.). Thence
about 1 hr. up the easy broken rocks (a gendarme of
reddish rocks being turned on its r. hand side) of
the N.W. arete of the peak leads to the summit (5J-6
hrs. from Concordia).
Variations.
(a) " Instead of making for the Hugisattel, we worked
up a narrow slope of snow between patches of rock, anil

THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP i,\
"truck the N.W. arete some distance above the Hugisattel"
(Messrs. H. W. Topham and H. Marsh, June 26,
1893, Marsh, p. 167). This way was taken, in order to
save time, in consequence of a menacing storm.
(&) From the snow slopes some way above the breakfast-place
bear r., and follow more or less the short, but
y ery steep and rocky, S.W. spur, direct to the top
(Herr H. Hoek, with Alex. Tannler and K. Moor, Nov.
10, 1901, Oe. A. Z. 1902, p. 10 and 96, and S. A. C. J.
xxxvii. p. 306). This route was adopted owing to the
danger of avalanches (due to fresh snow) on the slopes
below the Hugisattel—it took 4 hrs. 25 min. under
special conditions.
3- From the N. W. or the Agassizjoch.
Herren F. Bischoff and E. Notzlin, with Chr. Michel
and Peter Egger, July 20, 18GS, descended by this route
from the peak to the pass (S. A. C. J. xxl. p. 36, note),
while, independently, Mr. G. E. Foster, with Hans
Baumann and Peter Beruet, July 28,1868, ascended by
it from the pass to the peak (A. J. iv. p, 155).
A. J. iv. p. 155, vi. p. 297, xiii. p. 269, 423, xiv. p.
249, xviii. p. 63. C. A. F. Ann. xxvi. p. 198. 8. A. C. J.
ix. p. 159 sqq., xxi. p. 35, 37. Pioneers, p. 93. Deutsclie
Alpenzeitung, ii. p. 121.
This route is the most direct from Grindelwald, but is
long and laborious.
From the Agassi7jocli (about 7 hrs. from the
Schwarzegg Club hut by way of the Finsteraarjoch)
follow the ridge to the summit. Rotten rocks lead up
in about 1 hr. to the point marked 3963 m, on the S.
map. Thence the snow slope up to the Hugisattel may
take 2 or 3 hrs. if it is of ice, while from the Hugisattel
the ordinary route (Rte. 2) from Concordia is followed
over rocks to the top. Reckon from 3-4 hrs. from the
pass to the peak.

4* THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP
Attempts to scale the Finsteraarhorn from the Finsleraar
glacier by the great N. or N.E. rook wall have
hitherto been unsuccessful (A. J. viii. Appendix, p. 70,
note, S. A. C. J. ii. p. 169, vil. p. 631, viii. p. 565, Ix.
p. 618, xxi. p. 35, 37, Alpina, 1897, p. 121, Studer,
i. p. 116, and the "Bund," No. 218, Aug. 6-7,
1902).
Gemsliicke (no height on S. map, but Schlagintweit,
p. 23, gives 3336 m., 10,924 ft.).
Between the Finsteraarhorn and the Finsteraar
Rothorn, from the Studerfirn to the Fiescher
glacier.
This name (now commonly used, see S. A. C. J. xx.
p. 459, 463, xxi, p. 75, xxv. p. 119, Oe. A. Z. 1899,
p. 4) is here preferred to the old name " Bothorusattel,"
which alone appears on the S. map.
The pass was first reached from the Studerfirn by Herr
J. R. Meyer, with a shepherd, July 25, 1812 (Meyer, ii.
p. 7-8, and 1852 Alpenrosen, p. xiii). On July 26-8
it was the site of the bivouac of the whole Meyer party
{Ibid. p. 9 and p. xiii), and on Aug. 15 of the first
Finsteraarhorn party (ibid. p. 16 and p. xix). This
party, on its return to their bivouac, Aug. 16, first
reached the pass from the Fiescher glacier (ibid. p. 21
and p. xxiii). Hugl bivouacked here 011 Aug. 18-19,
1828 (p. 181-5, 195), and crossed it Aug. 4-5, 1829 (p.
196-9, 201-2), and again Aug. 9 and 10 (p. 203, 210).
Herr Bulger in 1842 also crossed it (S. A. C. J. xxvl.
p. 421), and it was used as a bivouac, Aug. 13-14,1S51,
by the Schlagintweit party (1854 book, p. 22).
Roth, ii. p. 20-1, 24-8, 75-6. A. J. iv. p. 155, viii.
p. 267. S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 75, xxxiii. p. 177. Alpina,
1903, p. 208.
In 1876 M, Cordier created great confusion by using
(A. J. viii. p. 264, C. A. F. Bulletin, 1876, p. 209, aud

THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP 43
C. A. F. Ann. iil. p. 397) the name of Rotbornsattel to
designate the point reached by him high up on the S.E.
arete of the Finsteraarhorn, a mistake that gave rise to
the totally erroneous idea that from the Geuisllicke he
followed the entire S.E. arete of the Finsteraarhorn
(Studer, i. p. Ill and 113-4, A. J. viii. App. p. 67, 71).
From the Oberaar Club hut a steepish slope of
snow leads to the pass (li-li hr.), while on the other
side a rather steeper snow slope brings the traveller to
the level of the Walliser Fiesoherfirn (J hr.).
Finsteraar Rothorn, 3549 m., 11,644 ft.
The name Rothorn appears on Meyer's 1813 map,
and this summit was distinguished from other
peaks of similar name in 1883 by Herr E. von
Fellenberg (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 109).
Herren S. Simon and E. Merian, with J. Tischhauser,
July 27> '885.
S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 75-6- A. J. xiii. p. 188.
From the Gemslucke follow the N.W. ridge (snowy
in its upper portion) to the summit (40 min.).
Ober Studerjoch (no height given on the S. map).
Between the Finsteraarhorn and tin Stnderhoni,
from the Pavilion Dollfuss to the Oberaar Club
hut.
This pass was originally named Vnteraarjoch.
Mr. A. Giles Puller, with A. Mennich and A. Jaun,
Aug. I, 1868.
A. J. iv. p. 155- B all, p. 127. S. A. C. J. ii.
p. 165, 169, I73> xxx »i. P. 174.
The first and only party in 2 hrs. from the Pavilion
Dollfuss reached the point at which the route of the pass
quits the Finsteraar glacier. "The route to the pass
thence lies between two ridges of rock, of which that on

44 THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP
the r., facing S., is entirely denuded of snow, while that
on the 1., facing N., is below partially, and higher up
entirely, covered with snow. After 2 hours of glacier
work the party took to the continuation of the r. hand
ridge, the rocks of which are very feasible; and from
thence a steep snow slope leads to" a point somewhat
higher than the true col (3J hrs. from the Finsteraar
glacier).
The descent by the Studerfirn to the Oberaar Club
hut (1 hr.) is perfectly easy, the first bit being effected
by a "chemin^e."
Studerhorn, 3637 m., 11,933 ft-
This point was named Studerhorn jokingly in 1839
by the friends of Gottlieb Studer (1804-1890) in
his honour (Studer, Panorama von Bern, p. 78,
and S. A. C. J. ii. p. 171), and formally in 1840
by Desor (Desor, i. p. 161-2, Studer, Top. Mitt.
p. 172, and Panorama, von Bern, p. 78) in
honour of Gottlieb's cousin, the geologist, Bernard
Studer (1794-1887).
This summit is visible from Berne (Studer, Top. Mitt.
p. 138, and Panorama Von Bern, p. 77). A
panorama from the summit by Herr G. Studer
is given in the " Beilagen " of S. A. C. J. ii.
I. From the E.
Herren G. Studer and R. Lindt, with Kaspar and
Jakob Blatter and Peter Sulzer, Aug. 5, 1864.
S. A. C. J. ii. p. 175, * x v> P- '"> I2 4- Alpina,
1897, p. 121. A. J. ii. p. 413.
From the Unter Studerjoch follow the easy snow E.
arete to the top (1 hr.—from the Oberaar Club hut
reckon 2\ hrs. up by this route). It is best from the

THE F1NSTERAARH0RN GROUP 45
Studerflrn to gain this E. arete by the gully described
below under the Unter Studerjoch.
2. From the S.
The first party descended by the steep snowy S. face
to the Studerflrn (S. A. 0. J. «• P- 182).
3. From the N.E.
Messrs. A. W. Moore and II. Walker, with Melchior
and Jakob Anderegg, June 29, 1872.
A. J. vi. p. 93. S. A. C. J. xxxiii. p. 174.
The 1872 party, finding that, no doubt owing to the
earliness of the date, the glacier leading to the Unter
Studerjoch was dangerously exposed to avalanches,
followed It for only a short time, and then took to the
ridge (rotten rocks) forming its 1. bank, •which was
followed to the Bummit (9 hrs., Incl. halts, from the
Grimsel Hospice).
4. From the IV.
The 1872 party " went straight down the snow-covered
W. face of the peak to the Studerflrn" (A. J. vi. p. 93).
Unter Studerjoch, 3428 m., 11,247 ft.
Between the Studerhorn and Altmann, from the
Pavilion Dollfuss to the Oberaar Club hut.
Messrs. E. N. Buxton, W. E. Hall, R. J. S. Macdonald,
and F. C. Grove, with M. Anderegg and
P. Perren, Aug. 4, 1863.
A. J. i. p. 364 sqq., ii. p. 413. Ball, p. 126-7.
S. A. C. J. ii. p. 165,175, x. p. 577, xxxiii. p. 174.
The first party in 4J hrs. from the Grimsel Hospice
reached the N. foot of the pass. They then prooeeded
to cut and force their way up the very crevassed glacier
that extends on the N.E. flank of the Studerhorn, and in
2| hours reached the lowest depression, which forms the
true pass.

46 THE FINSTERAARHORN GROUP
The same course was followed in 1864 by Herr
Studer's party (S. A. C. J. ii. p. 174), and In 1874 by
Herr Calberla's {ibid. x. 677)' But other parties (A. J.
vi. p. 93, and S. A. C. J. xxxiii. p. 174) have found it
best to follow the ridge on the L bank of this glacier, and
so to gain the E. arete of the Studerhorn not far from
the top of that peak (see Kte. 3 of the Studerhorn).
A direct descent from the pass to the Studerflrn
seems to be impracticable, owing to a steep wall of rocks
not well shown on the S, map. It is best, therefore,
to mount W. towards the Studerhorn, till the descent
is effected either in 10 min. by a snow gully about
200 yards W. of the pass (A. J. ii. p. 413, S. A. C. J.
x. p. 678, xxv. p. 122, 124), or still farther W. by
another gully, which is just W. of a small rocky point
on the ridge (A. J. i. p. 869). (Avoid carefully a descent
from the ridge to the E. of the pass, A. J. i. p. 868, and
S. A. C. J. xxxiii. p. 176). It is about \ hr. from the
pass to the Oberaar Club hut.
Altmann, 3482 m., 11,424 ft.
So named in 1840 by Desor (Desor, i, p. 161, and
Studer, Top. Mitt. p. 172) in honour of the
glacialist, J. G. Altmann (1695-1758).
There seems to be no recorded ascent of this point,
which, however, is easily accessible by its E. and W.
arfites, and probably also direct from the S.

SECTION III
The Oberaarhorn Group
FKOM TUB OBEHAARJOCII TO THE
ZlNKENSTOCK
Oberaarjoch, 3233 m., 10,607 ft.
Between the Nollen and the Oberaarhorn, from the
Crimsel Hospice to the Fiestlier glacier.
Meyer, 1. p. 9, states that about 15 years before 1812,
i.e. about 1797, the surveyor, J. H. Weiss, crossed this
pass. But the earliest passage of which we have a detailed
account is that efl'ected July 25, 1812, by J. R. Meyer
(the father), with a shepherd, followed next day by his
two sons, Rudolf and Gottlieb, their uncle Hieronymus
Meyer and Herr Thilo, with Alois Volker, Joseph
Borter, Kaspar Huber, and Arnold Abbtthl (Meyer, ii.
p. 7-9, and 1852 Alpenrosen, p. xhi).
Meyer, 1. p. 18, ii. p. 8-9,14-15,25. 1852 Alpenrosen,
p. xii-xiii, xviii-xix, xxv. Hugt, i, 173-I80,195,197,
210-1. Studer's Top. MM. p. 130, 135, 151-6. Badminton,
" Mountaineering," p. 379. 1854 Schlagiutweit,
p. 22. Both, ii. 13-24, 78-112. Desor, i. p. 858 sqq.
Forbes (new ed.), p. 434-440. Tyndall's Hours of

48 THE OBERAARHORN GROUP
Exercise, p. 174-6. Girdlestone, p. 93-5. Conway, p.
192-3. A. J. xi. p. 242. Oe. A. Z. 1883, p. 350, 1894,
p. 205, 278, 1897, p. 129, 1901, p. 118, 1902, p. 9, 95.
S. A. 0. J. i. p. 279-282, 302, xx. p. 142, 452, xxi. p.
106-7, xxvl. p. 420, 422 (Sulger), xxxiv. p. 206. Alpina,
1903, p. 49. C. A. F. Ann. xtx. p. 477. Gruner (i.
p. 41-2, 49-52) describes the Oberaar glacier. For
the geology of this region see S. A. C. J. i. p. 309.
Formerly this pass was used as a direct passage from
the Grimsel Hospice to the Eggishorn Hotel, but of
recent years the lower portion of the Fiescher glacier has
become very crevassed, so that now the wearisome old
route (which involved leaving and taking again 4o the
ice several times before the Stock chalets were gained) is
hardly ever adopted. In 1883 a comfortable Club hut
was built on the rocks 10 min. S.W. of the pass (it was
replaced in 1904 by a larger Club hut, 3 min. above and
W. of the pass). Since the opening of this hut the pass
is mainly crossed as a means of access to this hut,
whence it is a fine high level route of 5-6 hrs. over the
Gemslttcke and the Grunhornliicke to the Concordia
Inn.
From the Grimsel Hospice follow the carriage road
towards Meiringen for a short way till close to the point
where the old path to Meiringen joins the high road
(here is a sign-post). Steps in the embankment of the
carriage road lead down to the continuation of the old
path in zigzags. This is followed along the r. bank of
the infant Aar for a short way, when it is necessary to
take to the left hand a small path which descends
towards a lake. In this way the traveller gains nearly
the top of a small green promontory or ridge. Here the
path to the Pavilion Dollfuss descends to and crosses the
Aar. That towards the Oberaarjoch descends to the
left hand (here is a great inscription in red paint on the
rock) and follows the r. bank of the Aar, going up and

THE OBERAARHORN GROUP 49
down a good deal, till It crosses by a bridge to the 1.
bank of the Oberaar torrent. Thence it mounts (/jtouy
and rough) above the 1. bank of that torrent to the
pastures at the foot of the Oberaar glacier. Do not
cross the torrent to the cow hut, but keep aloiig the 1.
bank of the torrent over stones, and so gain the 1. bank
of the Oberaar glacier. This glacier is then mounted,
and gradually steepens before the pass at Its head is
attained (6-7 hrs. from the Hospice).
Oberaarhorn, 3642 »"•> "'949 ft.
Sir Leslie Stephen, with Melchior Anderegg, Aug.
23, i860.
Ball, p. 125. Pioneers, p. 65. Studer's Top. Mitt. p.
154. Qe. A. Z. 1894, p. ii, S4> 205i 278, 1901,
p. 153. D. & Oe. A. V, Mitt. 1894, p. 122.
S. A. C. J. i. p. 3°2-4. 309, ii. p. 178, xx.
p. 145, xxv. p. 125. Alpina, 1903, p. 208.
From the new Oberaar Club hut climb easy broken
rooks for J hr., and finally up snow to the top (1-1J hr,
from the Club hut).
Grunerhorn, 3510 m., 11,516 ft.
Scheuchzerhorn, 3471 m., ir,3S8 ft., and 3424 m.,
11,234 ft.
One or other of these peaks U called Schneelwrn on
the maps of Wyss and Hugi, as well as in the text (p.
32) of Studer's Top. Mitt., and on his 1838 Panorama
from the Siedelhorn. Both received their present
names in 1840 from Agassis in honour of the two well- '
known writers on Alpine subjects, G. S. Gruner, 1717-
1778, and J. J. Scheuchzer, 1672-1733 (Desor, 1.
p. 161, Studer, Top. Mitt. p. 172). ' '
Both were first climbed on July 30, 1872, by Herr
E. J. Haberlin, with Andreas and Johannes von Weissenfluh.
The lower point of the Soheuchzerhorn was
4

SO THE OBERAARHORN GROUP
visited In 1891 by Herr Emil Burckhardt (S. A. C. J.
xxvii. p. 471).
1. By the E. arlle,
8. A. C. J. viii. p. 665, xlv. p. 261, 263, 625. Alpenpost,
iv. p. 368. D. A. V. Zeitschrift, iv.' Part ii.
p. 52. Studer, i. p. 499.
From the Sclieuolizerjoch the higher summit of the
Scheuchzerhom is gained in 1 hr. by its E. arete, and 20
miu. beyond is the Grunerhorn. From the latter there
is a descent by snow slopes and easy rocks direct to the
Oberaar glacier.
2. By the IV. arile.
The Scheuchzerhom can also be climbed by its N.
arlte (tried by Herr E. von Fellenberg's party, Sept. 6,
1877, S. A. 0. J. xtv. pp. 263-4). This was done by
Herren A. Weber and P, Spranger, Aug. 19, 1899
(S. A. C. J, xxxv. p. 421, and private information).
Starting from the Pavilion Dollfuss, the party in 2J
hrs. reached the E. foot of the " Eschergrat" (the ridge
running from the Escherhorn to the Scheuchzerhom),
and by a gully attained the crest of that ridge (the N.
arete of our peak) about half-way between the points
marked 3101 m.' and 3424 m. on the S. map (1J hr.).
They then followed that sharp ridge, partly snow and
partly rock, to the point 3424 m., whence (owing to
a huge and menacing snow corniche) they traversed to
the 1. hand in order to gain the E. arete of the
Scheuchzerhom. This ridge was struck 25 metres
below the summit of the peak, which was reached by
it (31 hrs.).
Scheuchzerjoch, 3123 m., 10,247 ft.
Between the Scheuchzerhom and the Thierberg, from
. , Pavilion Dollfuss to the Oberaar glacier.
This pass was originally named Thierbergjoch

THE OBERAARHORN GROUP $l
(S. A. C. J. viii. p. 5Q5), but to avoid confusion with
various passes in the Sustenhom group the name
Scheuchzerjoch (S. A. C. J. xxx. p. 197) is here adopted.
It was first reached from the Pavilion Dollfuss by
Herr Haberlin, July SO, 1872 (see Scheuchzerhorn
above), but Herr E. von Fellenberg, with J. Tiinnler
and B. Marti, Sept.-6, 1877 (S. A. C. J. xiv. p. 261-8),
seems to have been the first traveller to traverse both
sides of the pass.
See also S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 471, and xxxiii. p. 197.
From the Pavilion Dollfuss cross the Unteraar
glacier to the foot of the Thierberg glacier (40 min.).
That glacier is then mounted (at first gentle, then
steeper and crevassed) to the broad snowy opening of
the pass (3-4 hrs. from Pavilion Dollfuss).
The descent is made at first by snow slopes, close
under the white granite wall of the Thierberg, to the
Scheuchzer glacier (no name on the S. map). The right
moraine of the latter Is then followed, but later it is
best to cross to the left side of the glacier, so as by
avalanche snow to gain without difficulty the surface of
the Oberaar glacier (2 hrs. from the Scheuchzerhorn).
Herr and Frau P. Montandon, with Albert Huggler,
Aug. 17,1897, from the pass traversed, nearly at a level,
over the Scheuchzer glacier and beneath the cliffs of
the Scheuchzerhorn, Grunerhorn, and Oberaarhorn,
and joined the Oberoarjoch route (2J hrs., including
halts, from the Scheuchzerjoch) only 10 min. below its
summit (S. A. C. J. xxxiii. p. 197).
Escherhorn, 3101 m., 10,174 ft.
Named in 1840 by Agassiz in honour of the geologist,
Arnold Escher von der Linth, 1807-1872 (Desor,
i, p. 162, Studer, Top. Mitt, p. 172).
No information.

52 THE OBERAARUORN GROUP
Thierberg, 3202 m., 10,506 ft.
This name is mentioned by Bodrner about 1716
(S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 245)-
MM. Desor, Escher, and Sulger, with J. Jaun, July
or Aug. 1842.
Desor, i. p. 162 n., 525 sqq., ii. p. 180. Studer,
Top. Mitt. p. 139, 172.
From the Oberaar glacier the first party mounted by
the pastures on the 1. bank of the Scheuchzer glacier
and attained the summit without difficulty (no details
or times given).
For the descent Jaun proposed to descend direct by
steep snow slopes to the Thierberg glacier ou the N.W.J
but Dosor preferred to try the Oritnberg glacier to the
N.E. The party, therefore, from the top of the Thierberg
pushed on to another summit more to the E., and
thence descended to the Grllnberg glacier. But after
failing to force a passage through the siSracs of (apparently)
the W. branch of that glacier, they crossed over
by a gap to the right or E. bank of the Grttnberg
glacier. Thence they reached what Desor calls the
"arete transversale qui separe le glucier du Thierberg
de celui du Grilnberg," meaning, probably, either that
separating the two branches of the Grlinberg glacier
(ending In the Grilnbergli of the S. map), or else that
forming the N. end of the ridge descending from the
point marked 8107 m. (to the N.E. of the Thierberg). In
either case the descent to the Unteraar glacier, partly
by rocks, partly by ice, offered no difficulty.
On Aug. 8, 1892, Messrs. V. A. Fynn and W. J.
Murphy crossed the Thierberg by the following route
(S. A. Z. x. p. 180, S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 318, and xxix. p.
345). From the Pavilion Dollfuss they crossed the
Unteraar glacier to the point marked 2372 m. at the N.
foot of the K. arete of the peak. Thenoe they attained

THE OBERAARHORN GROUP 53
its summit in SJ hrs., at first along the W* slope of the
N. arete, and then by the erest of this arete itself.
The last 100 metres afforded an "interesting climb,"
especially near the very (small top. The descent was
made along the S. arete; but this was quitted at its
junction with the W. arete, in order to descend by steep
stone-swept gullies to the Scheuchzer glacier, by which
the Oberaar glacier was attained in li hr. from the
summit of the peak.
Point marked 3107 m., 10,194 ft.
No information.
Zinkenstock, 3042 m., 9981 ft., and 2922 m.,
9587 ft.
Gruner, i. p. 37, 46, and illustrations at pp. 44 a nd
48, and map, Nos. 25-6. 1852 Alpenrosm,
p. xviii.
Either summit may be attained without difficulty,
but by a rough and relatively laborious climb, best
from the Oberaar glacier side.
In 1848 M. Desor's party (Desor, i. p. 232-3, ii. p.
180) skirted this range by a very bad path, but found
some difficulty in descending a very steep brushwood
and rhododendron-covered slope to the very end of the
Unteraar glacier. This is no doubt the path round the
E. end of the range, which is marked by a dotted lifte
on the S. map.
In 1719 a very fine cavern, full of splendid crystals,
was discovered in the E. ridge (on the N. flank of the
spur marked 2658 m.) of the lower Zinkenstock, and
some fine specimens are to be seen in the Natural
History Museum in Bern (see the interesting original
accounts in Altmann, p. 128 sqq., Gruner, i. p. 64-55,
and 8. A. C. J. xxv. p. 380 Bqq.j.

54 THE OBERAARHORN GROUP
Desorstock, 2872 m., 9423 ft.
This name first appears on the S. map (not on the
Dufour map), and recalls the memory of E. Desor (1811—
1882), who did so much to extend our knowledge of the
high Alps and of glacier phenomena, especially on the
Unteraar glacier.
No information.

SECTION IV
The Galmi Group
SOUTH OP TIIE OBERAARJOCH
Nollen.
S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 64, xxxiii. p. 176. Conway,
p- m-
This knoll, at the N.W. foot of which the old Oberaar
Club hut ia built, is easily accessible by snow aud rocks
either from the Oberaarjoch on the N., or direct from
the old Club hut by the N.W. ridge.
Oberaar Rotjoch, 3325 m„ 10,909 ft.
Between the Nollen and the Oberaar Rothorn, from
the Grimsel to the Fiescher Glacier.
It was originally named " Kastenjoch," on the authority
of an old panorama found in the Eggiahorn Hotel.
This panorama probably took this name from Gottlieb
Studer's work, where, however, the name Kastlenhorn
ia given to the GalmiHiirner (see below). The name
Oberaar Rotjoch was given by Herr E. von Fellenberg
in 1883 (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 113). A more euphonious
name would be South Oberaarjoch (Conway, p. 193 n.).
It is said that about 1869 this pass was crossed by ft
66

56 THE GALMl GROUP
party which mistook it for the Oberaarjoch. But the
first recorded passage was that effected by Keys. F. T.
and E. P. Wethered, with two Guttannen guides, Aug.
22, 1879.
A. J. ix. p. 368, xxl. p. 50. S. A. C. J. xix. p. 112-4,
xxxiii. p. 177. Conway, p. 192-3.
This great snowy depression forms a variation on the
route of the Oberaarjoch.
From the Grimsel follow the Oberaarjoch route till
near a broken part of the Oberaar glacier, when it is
necessary to bear left, up steep slopes of nevi or ice, to
the pass (lj hr.).
A steep snow'slope leads down to the Studerfirn, on
which the Oberaarjoch route is soon joined a little way
below the old Club hut.
Oberaar Rothorn, 3458 m., 11,346 ft.
this peak was named in 1883 by Herr E. von Fellenberg
(S. A. C. J. xix. p. 109, and map opposite
p. 112).
S. A. C, J. xix. p. 83, xxii. p. 64.
It was ascended in 1891 by Herr Emil Burckhardt,
but his route is unknown (S. A. C. J. xxvii. 471). The
second party, MM. J. Gallet and H. Eieckel, with Ulrich
Rubin, and Christian Kaufmann, July 13, 1897, from
the old Club hut rounded the buttress marked 3116 m.,
and then mounted by the rather jagged W, arete, which
can be followed almost throughout, to the top (1 hr. CO
min. from the old Club hut). The 1897 party descended
by the ,N.E. slope of the peak, traversing
several gullies, and then cutting down a steep ice
slope to the Oberaar glacier (If hr. from the top), and
regained the Club hut in 40 win. more by the Oberaar
BotjocU .(S, A. C. J, xxxiii. p. 176-7, Alpina, 1897,
p. 109, and private Information).

THE GALMI CROUP 57
S. of the Oberaar Kothorn the xidge splits into two
tranches, which are most conveniently considered separately.
We describe first that running to the S.W., and
then (p. 62) that extending to the E.
a. 5, IV. of the Oberaar Rotliom (Galmi ridge).
GalmilUcke, 3305 m., 10,844 ft.
Between the Oberaar Kothorn and the Hinter Galmihorn,
from the Oberaar Club hut to Afunster.
S. A. C. J. xix. p. II1-3, xx. p. i44, xxii. p. 64.
A. J, xxi. p. 50.
, It is approached by snow slopes on either Bide, and
leads from the Galmifirn to the Miinster glacier. It
was twice crossed in 1891 by Herr Emil Burckhardt
(S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 471), but no details of hii) route
have been published.
Hinter Galmihorn, 3482 m., 11,424 ft., and Vorder
Galmihorn, 3524 m., 11,362 ft.
These two snowy summits are separated by the
fiOchttttcke, 3402 m., 11,162 ft., which leads from the
Galmifirn to the Btichi glacier, but does not J9eem to
have yet been crossed (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 110, 112,
xx. p. 144). These two summits were formerly called
Kastlenhorn (see Studer's Top. Mitt. p. 139, 148,153,
and his Panoramas from the Siedelhorn and the Egglshorn,
and also Wyss* and Hugi's maps) or Kasten-
Jiorn (see Schlagintweit, p, 22). On the Dufour .map
the name of Vorder Galmi is given to the Waseuhorn.
The present names of the peaks and passes in this
immediate neighbourhood were fixed iu 1881 by the
Federal Surveyors, and adopted in 1883 by Herr E. von
Fellenberg (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 109-112, aud map)*

58 THE GALMI GROUP
MM. L. Kurz and A. Barbey, with Seller and
Albrecht (the Eggishorn guides), July 12, 1884.
S. A. C. J. xix. p. 83, 92, 95, 105, 109, 112, xx.
141-4,167-8, xxvii. 471. A. J. xii. p. 479. Oe. A. Z.
1886, p. 19. Private information.
Cither peak can be reached from the Club hat in
about 2 hrs. by easy snow slopes. From the old
Oberaar Club hut the first party mounted by a snow slope
to the E. of the N.W. arete of the Vorder Galml to a
first rock top, and then bore K. to the true summit
(2 hrs,). They then descended by easy snow slopes to
the Baehilvicke (20 min.), and remounted by snow and
rocks to the long jagged ridge which forms the summit
of the Hinter Galmi. Another descent to the N. by
rather steeper snow slopes led them to the Galiniliicke
(20 min.), whence the Club hut was regained in about 2j
hrs. from the Vorder Galmi.
FirrenlUcke, 3247 m., 10,653 ft.
Between the Hinter Galmihorn and the Firrenhom,
from the Bachi glacier to the Minister glacier.
This snowy depression does not seem to have yet
been crossed (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 110, 114, xx. p. 167).
FirrenhSrner, 3280 ra., 10,762 ft., and 3091 m.,
10,142 ft.
These two points were ascended in 1891 by Herr Kmil
Burckhardt (S. A, C. J. xxvil. p. 471, see too xix. p.
112). The higher Bummit is easily accessible by its
S.E. snow ridge, and the lower by snow from the N.W.
Between them a gap gives access from the head of the
Bachi glen to the Mduster glacier (S. A. C. J. xix. p.
110), the latter being, however, best reached by the
opening between the Klein Firrenhom and the point
2820 ro. to the N.E.

THE GALMI GROUP 59
Kastlenhorn, 2844 m., 9331 ft.
S. A. GJ. xix. p. 112, 114.
Easily accessible by stones and the rocky N.E. ridge.
Gaimiengrat, 3143 m., 10,312 ft.
Between the Vorder Galmihortt and the GalmienhSrner,
from the Bieliger glacier to the Bdchi
glacier.
S. A. C. J. xix. p. 112-4 (wilh illustration—the name
appears only on the annexed map, and not on
the S. map).
This pass was reached at the end of June 1883 by
Herr G. Kamlali in 4 hrs. from Blitzingen, but much
soft snow prevented him from effecting the descent
(easy by crevassed snowy slopes) to the Bacbi glacier
(S. A. C. J. xx. p. 166-7).
GaimienhSraer, 3241 m., 10,634 ft-, and 3223 m.,
Jo.575 ft-
Two summits locally so named (S. A. C. J. xix. p.
91-2, 110, 114), but apparently not yet visited by
travellers. The higher would probably be best reached
from the Galmiengrat pass to its N., and the lower from
the gap (3149 m.) between the two summits (see the
illustration in S. A. C. J. xix. p. 113).
Ritzenhorn, 2870 m.» 9416 ft.
No information.
Bieligerliicke, 3158 m., 10,361 ft.
Between the Vorder Galmihorn and the Wasenhorn,
from Bietto the Oberaar Club hut.
Like other gaps in this range, the Bieligerliicke is
often visited by hunters and crystal seekers, though the
snow slopes on the N.W. side render it unlikely that
these adventurers have gone down in that direction.

6o THE GALMI GROUP
The first traveller to cross and name the Bieligerlucke
was Ilerr E. von Fellenberg (his map iu S. A. C. J.
xix. p. 112, alone gives the came of the pass), with
Clemens Guntren (of Biel) and Kaspar Blatter and his
son Melohior, Sept. 13, 1883. It is the best route on
the whole from the Upper Valais to the Club hut.
S. A. C. J. xix. 88sqq., 108,110,112, xx. p. 168, 168.
From Biel (about 5 miles below Munster or above
Fiesoh) take a short cut to join the path coming from
Bitzingen, and then follow this path, which runs high
above the 1. bank of the torrent in the Bieliger glen. In
about 1 hr. the lower chalet ia attained, and in another
hour the higher (Frutt). Thence 2 hrs. were required
by the first party to the moraine of the Bieliger glacier.
Mount this to the foot of the steep rock wall, which
must be climbed by a gully (good handholds) to the
pass, a very narrow gap. The first paity took 7 lirs.
(including halts) from Biel to the pass.
On the other side a steep snowor ice slope leads down to
the Galraifirn, which is then mounted in a slightly N.E.
direction to the Club hut (2 hrs. or less from the pass).
Reckon 8 hrs. from Biel, or 10 hrs. from Munster, to
the Club hut.
Wasenhorn, 3457 m., 11,342 ft.
Misnamed Vorder Galmi on the Dufour map.
Herr and Frau Tauscher-Geduly, with,A, Pinggera
and Josef Reinstadler, Aug. 14, 1885 (old Oberaar
Club hut Travellers' Book, and Oe. A, Z. 1886,
P- "9).,
Studer, Top, Mitt. p. 107, 148. S. A. C. J. xix. p.
105, 112—the S. summit is the point marked
3341 m. (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 93).
Accessible In about 3 hrs. from the Club hut without
difficulty, probably best by the N. rocky ridge, perhaps

THE GALMT GROUP 6r
also from the Bieligerliicke by tlie N.E. arete (S. A. C. J.
xix. p. 95).
RJsihorn (or less correctly Rissenhorn), 3299 m.,
10,834 ft.
For this local Bellwald name (not given on the S.
map) see S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 100.
S. A. C. J. xx. p. 163-5, xxi. 100-1.
This fine view-point was ascended several times by
Herr G. KamlaTi in and before 1883. The best way
up from Blitziugeu (5 hru.) is to mount, through the
Blitzingen forest and past the Heustatten huts, to the
Hohegg ridge, which is then followed over the Thalistook
(2767 m.). Barren sheep pastures and stone slopes and
smooth rooks (leave the twin "rote Seewji" on the right
hand) to the glacier which extends at the S. foot of the
peak. This is mounted and the peak at its head gained
without difficulty.
On one occasion Herr Kamlah in 1885 (S. A. C. J.
Xxi. p. 101) descended from the S.E. end of this glacier
to a wide hollow, through which the glacier torrent runs
to the Wallibach. Below a spot where a torrent falls in
from the W. this hollow is quitted, and then steep grass
slopes to the right lead down into the Bieliger glen, the
bottom of •which is attained about \ hr. above the
highest hut of the Selkingen Alp. From the next hut
Herr Kamlah followed a cow path to the Igschenen Alp,
and descended past the Kastenbiel hillock direct to
Blitzingen.
Setzenhorn, 3065 m., 10,056 ft.
The name "Auf der Kuh"is given to this summit
and the ridge stretching thence to the S.W. by
Studer's Top. Mitt. p. 107, 148, and Panorama
from the Eggishorn. But on the; S. map that

62 THE GALMI GROUP
name is specially attributed to the S. extremity
of the ridge, this point being marked 2734 m.
S. A. C. J. xx. p. 163, xxi. 77.
Accessible from Blitzingen either post the fertile
Eichlneii Alp, and then by the ridge separating it from
the Fiescher glacier (at the end rough and stony), or
(better) by following the way to the Risihorn, but
turning N.W. after passing the twin " rote Seewji."
b. E. of the Oberaar Rothorn (Rossen ridge).
Miinsterjoch.
Between the Oberaar Rothorn and the Gross Rossen^
horn, from Milnster to the Oberaar glacier.
We propose the above name for this pass, as the first
party forgot to christen it.
.Messrs. W, T. Kirkpatrick and E. P. Hope, on Aug.
14, 1901, having mounted from Miinster to the Miinster
glacier (gained between the point 2820 m. and the Klein
Tirrenhorn, 3091 m., see below, under the Talsehyen
Pass), crossed that glacier, in a N.W. direction, to its
upper plateau. They then climbed up to the ridge
dividing it from the Oberaar glacier, and followed
this ridge towards the W. for a certain distance. But
as it was extremely rotten, they quitted it as soon as
possible and descended on to the upper shelf of the
Oberaar glacier. This shelf is separated from the main
Oberaar glacier by a line of seracs, which darkness prevented
the party from descending. So they followed
the shelf vpwards to the Oberaar Botjoch, and then
bore right to the old Club hut (A. J. xxi. p, 60—see
too S. A. C. J. xix. p. 87 and 111).
RossenhSrner, 3154 m., 10,348 ft.; 3133 m., 10,279
ft. j and 3115 m., 10,220 ft.
The word "Rossen" means a square hole in which

THE CALMI GROUP 63
water gathers, or is perhaps counected with " Runse "
(couloir)—see S. A. C. J. xix. p. 109-110. This rocky
range, as well as that of Talschyen more to the E., is
named Strahlhlirncr on the maps of Wyss and Hngi,
and on Herr G. Studer's Panorama from the Siedelhorn.
The highest summit was climbed in 1891 from the
Rossenjoeh (3108 m.) by Herr Emil Burckhardt (S. A. C. J.
xxvii. p. 471), and the two others from the same pass
by Herr A. Kbrber, with Hans von Bergen and Kaspar
Abplanalp, July 13,1886 (S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 66-7, 69).
No real difficulties are encountered during these ascents.
Rossenjoeh, 3108 m., 10,197 ft.
Between the two higher Rossenhorner, from the
Oberaar glacier to MUnster.
According to S. A. C. J. xix. p. Ill, it is possible to
cross this ridge to the W. of the highest Eossenhorn,
3154 m. (see Miinsterjoch above), and also between the
Eossenhorner, 3133 m. and 3115 m. But probably no
descent to the Oberaar glacier has ever been effected by
the hunters and crystal seekers who visit this ridge from
Milnster.
The first recorded passage by a traveller is that made,
July 13, 1886, by Herr A. Kbrber, with Hans von
Bergen and Kaspar Abplanalp (S. A. C. J. xxii. p.
65-9). This patty started from neai the point on the
Oberaar glacier marked 2899 in., and thence reached
the pass in 1J hr., meeting with many great crevasses,
then bridged by snow. After climbing the two lower
points of the Eossenhorner, the party descended from
the point 3115 m. in J hr. to the rocky plateau named
"bei den Eossen" and "auf dem Piatt" on the S.
niap. They might have borne to the right and crossed
_the flat surface of the MUnster glacier. But instead
of this considerable detour, they preferred to follow
a faint sheep track, which led them down to the

64 THE GALMT GROUP
extremity of the Milnster glacier in the bottom of the
Milnster glen, which was then followed towards the
village of Mlinster (see also S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 471).
Talschyen Pass, 2931 m., 9617 ft.
Between the E. Rossenhom (3115 m.) and the Tatschyenhorn
(3023 m.), from Milnster to the
Oberaar glacier.
This pass is mentioned in B. A. C. J. xix. p. Ill, hut
the first recorded traverse by a traveller seems to he
that made, July 23, 1894, by the Bev. W. A. B.
Coolidge, with Christian Aimer, jr., and Rudolf Aimer
(Oe. A. Z. 1894, p, 278, where it is wrongly named
" Rossenjoch, 3108"). From Mlinster this party
mounted, past Salzgebi and Bossboden, to the point
marked 2653 m., N.E. of the Kastlenhorn (3 hrs.). In
20 min. more they passed the lake marked on the
S. map, and in B5 min. more gained the edge ot the
Miinster glacier, at a point between the Klein Firrenhorn
(3091 m.) and the point marked 2820 m. on the
S. map. Abandoning (from want of local knowledge)
their intention of crossing the Biichilucke (between
the two Galmihorner), they crossed the nearly
level, Milnster glacier in a N. direction, and by stones
gained the Talschyen Pass, the lowest depression in
the ridge (1J lir.). On the other side rocks were
traversed obliquely for 20 min., and then an ice slope
and scracs led down to the Oberaar glacier, gained at the
great boulder which is the usual breakfast-place for
those crossing the Oberaarjoch. The above party
reached the Oberaarjoch In just over 2 hrs. from their
pass.
Talschyenhorn, 3023 m., 9918 ft.
A rocky mound easily accessible from the Milnster
side of the Talschyen Pass.

THE GALM1 GROUP 65
Lbffelhorn, 3098 m., 10,165 ft.
Gruner, i. 36. S. A. C. J. xix. p. 70, 73, 77. «°8,
xx. p. 171, xxix. p. 108. Alpina, 1903, p. 208.
Ball, p. 81, 83. A. J. vi. p. 94.
A fine view-point, accessible in 8-6 lira, from
Miinster by quitting the route to the Triitzi Pass an
hour below it, and then mounting in a N.W. direction
by stones and the glacier to the summit.
Triitzi Pass, 2809 m., 9216 ft.
Between the Lbffelhom and t/u Geschenerstock, from
Miinster to the Grimsel Hospice.
A. J. vi. p. 94. Ball, p. 81. S. A. C. J. xix. p. 81,
xx. 171, 497-8. Alpina, 1903, p. 2o8.
From Miinster mount N.E. to the Lauene huts by a
paved path, which thence passes through a fine larch
forest before running high above the torrent in the Triitzi
glen. The path gets worse and worse before it reaches
the lower Triitzi hut (2011 m.); but beyond improves,
and mounts by steep nigzags over rounded rocks to the
higher hut, 2289 m. (3 hrs.). An hour more, across the
torrent, up rounded rocks and scanty sheep pastures,
over gullies and swampy spots, leads.to the half-frozen
Triitzi lake (2581 m.). The way to the Loffelhoro is
gradually left on the left hand, and an ascent due N.
leads to the pass (1 hr.).
On the other side there is a very rapid descent to the
Oberaar glacier, where the Oberaarjoch route is joined
and followed to the Grimsel (4 hrs.).
Geschenerstock, 2894 m., 9495 ft.
Called Triltxiliorn on Wyss' and Hugi's maps.
Ulricherstock, 2890 m., 9483 ft.
S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 471-
Both these low rocky points (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 76,
5

66 THE GALMl GROUP
84) are easily reached from tlie pastures above Ulrichen
and Obergestelen.
Gross Siedelhorn, 2881 m., 9452 ft.
Klein Siedelhorn, 2766 m., 9°75 ft.
About 1716 Bodmer gives Kessiberg as an alterna.
tive name 1 (S. A. C. J. xxviii. p, 245), and in'
1760 Gruner (i. p, 37, 48) that of Kessihorn,
Hugi, i. p. 223. Studer, Top. Mitt. p. 23-6,165, and
the Fanorama from the top which is annexed to
the work. Ball, p. 80-81. 1852 Alpenrosen,
p. xviii. Desor, i. p. 226, 234-8, 450.
Both are well known view-points, and' are accessible
respectively in 3 hrs. and 2 hrs. from the Grimsel
Hospice, the way from near the summit of the Grimsel
Pass being the same for each. The Gross Siedelhorn
is accessible from Ulrichen or Obergestelen in 4 hrs. by
way of the Gestelergalen.
There is a pass (2651 m., 8698 ft.) between the
two summits, from the Oberaar cow hut past the
TrtiUensee; the route joins the old paved path from
the Grimsel Pass to Obergestelen some way above the
Altstafel huts (S. A. C. J. xix. p. 107, A. J. xxi.
p. 50).

SECTION V
The Schreckhorn Group
FROM THE STRAHLEGGHOBNER TO THE
LAUTERA AKSATTEL
Strahlegghorner, 3488 m„ n,444 **•» 3453 "»•»
",329 ft-} 3390m., 11,123 ft.; 3450m., «>3'?,
ft.* and 3462 16., it,359 ft.
A long line of peaka (3390 tu. rises to the S. of tlia
main ridge), very steep on the E. side, but snowy on
the W. slope, and extending N. from the route over the
FinsteraarjocH to the Strahlegg Pass. The whole ridge
was formerly called "Mittelgrat" (see, under Btrahlegg
Pass below), and one of these summits la 110 doubt that
called "die Strahleck" In 1817 by Wyss (p. 675), and
said by him to be lower thaa the (wo Schreckho'rner.
They are now not nnfrenuently visited from the
Sivhwarzegg Club hut,, when weather prevents any more
Important expeditions.. 'TUey can all be most easily
attained by their V.'or S.W. slopes.
I. N. Summit, 3462 ta, ,
Mr.. Felix 0. Solraster, with Peter Banmanu and
Christian Bemet, and Major-General Blanckley, with
er

68 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
two other guides, Aug. 14,1SSS, ascended this summit
from the Strahlegg Pass by the very narrow, Bteep, and
rooky (loose rooks) N.E, arete (| hr.). On the top was
found the card of a Swiss climber, who had made the*
ascent In Sept. 1887 i but this card was unluckily blown
away before the name was secured. The 1888 party
descended to the S. by the arete to about the point
marked 8382 m., then bore S.W. and reached the Ober
Grindelwald Eisrueer just below the icefall of the Finsteraarjoch
(A. J. xiv. p. 167, and S. A, C. J. xxlv. p. 892).
Mr. H. Bowyear, with Rudolf and Peter Aimer, July
11,1890, cut up a steep snow slope on the N, face of the
peak to a point less than half-way up the N.E. arete, by
which the climb was completed (1 hr. from the Strahlegg
Pass). The descent was made nearly entirely by the N.
face, the arete being only touched for a short distance,
and thence the route of ascent was followed (J hr.).
(See A. J. xv. p. 308-9, and S. A. C. J. xxvi. p. 897). ,
a. S. Summits, 3488 m., 3390 m., and 3453 m.
Mr. Bowyear's party (as above), July 18, 1SO0,
ascended from the Flnsteraarjoch by easy snow slopes
to the point marked 8488 m. (named Ifosse Strahlegg on
the S. map). They then descended by the same route
to a considerable glacier basin totheW. of that summit,
and climbed 8390 m, (which immediately overhangs the,
Flnsteraarjoch) by its sharp but'easy S.E. snow and
rock arete—this arete is not shown on the S. map, but
is well seen on photographs taken from the Oberaarhorn
and Studerhorn.
Returning to the glacier basin above mentioned,
Mr. Bowyear's party then climbed the point marked
3453 m. by its easy S.E. arete. The descent was
made for some way by a rook ridge on th& W\
face of the peak, and then across various ridges and
couloirs, on the N.W, face of the ridge, the Ober Eismeer

THE SCRRECKHORN GROUP 69
being reached at a point not far from that where the
Strahlegg Pass route falls in (A. J. xv. p. 309, and
S. A. 0. J. xxvi. p. 897—Mr. Bowyear, in a private
communication to Mr. Coolidge, expresses his opinion
that his " next point" was really point 3463 in.).
3. Central Summit, 3450 m., and traverse of most of
the ridge thence to the Strahlegg Pass.
- Mr. E. Clayton, with Peter Baumann, Sept. 19, 1S91,
mounted from the S.E. corner of the Ober Eismeer by
easy snow slopes to the point marked 8453 m. (3J hrs.
from the Schwauegg Club hut). Thence partly by the
S.E. ridge (turning its central bit, as the rocks were •
• very loose), and partly by snow to the W., they reached
(1 hr. 35 min. from 3453 m.) a deep snowy gap in the
ridge, and went up by easy rocks and snow to point
8450 m. (probably first ascent). Thence they followed
the ridge over various minor points to a conspicuous
square tower of rock on the ridge. This was climbed
from the W. The next two points on the ridge (an easy
rough hump and a sharp took pinnacle) were turned
by their W. bases, .and so the N. summit (3462 m.)
reached by, the ridge (1 j hr. from the gap), and the
Strahlegg Pass thence attained in 40 min. (A. J. xvi.
p. 118-9, and S. A. C. J. xxviii. p, 815).
Alte Strahlegg.
This pass seems to have been crossed In 1835 by Mr.
Callander, with Peter and Christian Baumaun, and
other men, and in 1838 by M. Lepileur, with the two
Baunianns and Ulrich Wittwer. Certainly these two
parties passed the ridge at the same point, and did not
gain the Finsteraar glacier, but the Strahleggtirn at the
foot of the Lauteraarhorn {Joanne, 1st edition, p.
329-333, and Studer, i. 226-7), yet did not pass by the
usual way ("les guides de M. Lepilour'ne prirent pas

?o ' THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
le chemin que Ton suit aujourd' hui," Joanne, 2nd ed.
p, 879). Apparently it is this pass which was attained
from the Grimsel side by Herren Gottlieb Studer, W.
Kiipfer, and Ed. Streckeisen (S. A. C. J. ii. p. 171),
with J. Leuthold and two other men, Aug. 8, 1839, for
Herr Studer says (Top. Mitt. p. 33, 35, 38) expressly
that from the Strahleggfirn the party did not aim at the
lowest depression, which is at the head of that glacier,
but from about the middle of the Strahleggfirn valley
bore .southwards towards the pass they attained ; and
also (p. 35) that the spot reached was where the ridge
began to turn towards the Finsteraarhorn (see in general
Top. Mitt. p. 23, 80-38). In 1862, on the authority
of Melchior Aiideregg, the Old Strahlegg was identified'
with the Finsteraarjoch (see the map in vol. ii. of
the 2nd series of " Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers," and
p. 14 of that vol., and A. J. i. p. 251). But Christian
Aimer in 1802 pointed out to Mr. George as the Old
Strahlegg " a gap in the Strahlgrat, about two-thirds of
the distance from the present Strahlegg to the end of the
spur" (A. J. i. p. 251). On July 1, 1868, Messrs.
George and Moruhead, with Clir. Aimer and Hans
Baumann, crossed Aimer's Old Strahlegg (S. A. C. J.
xxxlv. p. 213), which Mr. George describes (A. J. iv. p.
154) as " a gap in the Mittelgrat, about a third of the
way clown it. It is not the most obvious gap, but one
about 200 yards to the right [S.] of it. The pass is
rather lower than the Strahlegg, is much the same in
character on the Grindelwald side, and more difficult
on the Grimsel side." It would appear to be near the
figures 8450 m. on the S. map.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut follow the Strahlegg
route till it turns sharp to the E. Then go along the
Ober Eismeer for a short distance, climb up a rock rib
to the 1., and^ leaving to the r. the way to the Finsteraarjoch,
mount N.E. to the pass. The descent by

THE SCIIRECKHORN GROUP 71
rocks in not altogether easy, ami 1} hr. are required to
gain the Strahleggflrn, where the ordinary route from
the Strahlegg is rejoined.
Strahlegg Pass, 3351 m., 10,995 ft-
Between the AT. peak (3462 m.) of the Strahlegghomer
and the Gross Lauteraarhorn, from the
Schwarzegg Club hut to the Pavilion Dollfuss.
The name has been picturesquely derived from a
sunbeam," as the Ziisenberg pastures are said to first
receive the rays of the sun over the pass (Hinchliff, p.
47, and Mr. Ball in P. P. G, 1. p. 273). But the real
derivation is from the "Strahler" or crystal hunters,
who visit this ridge.
About 1783 G. S. Studer, on a panorama drawn
from the Iselten Alp (S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 256), states
that "Strahleck" is the Grindelwald name, while
" Mittelgrat" is that used in Hasle. In 1817 Wyss
(p. 675) speaks of " die Strahleck " as a summit near,
but lower than, the Schreckhorner. In 1844 Studer
{Top, Mitt. p. 34) Bays that the Grindelwalders give
the name "Strahleck" or "Strahlecken" (this name
occurs also in Aeby, p. 140) to three parallel rock ribs
which descend from the main ridge to the Lower
Grindelwald glacier,, but that of recent years this Same
has been attributed to the ridge itself, which formerly
was called "Mittelgrat." (See too his Panorama von
Bern, p. 74). The name " Strahlegg," therefore, seems
to have been first extended from the rock ribs above
named to the whole ridge above them, and then limited
to the pass over this ridge.
In 1751 Altmann (p. 46) narrates that in 1748 (p. 21)
he met on the Grindelwald Eismeer an old shepherd, who
assured him that once upon a time he had penetrated a
distance of 8 hours into the glaciers in the direction of
Hasle, but that all he saw from the point attained was

7* THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
icy like the Eismeer itself. la 1760 Gruner (i. p. 86)
tells us of a shepherd boy who had ventured to push on
between the Zasenberg and the " Gletscherberg " (i.e.
the more remote portion of the Biinisegg pastures,
as Gruner explains, 1. p. 77, 79-80, and illustration
opp. p. 81) into these icy wautes, and had, amid
a thousand frightful dangers, succeeded iu reaching,
through these icy valleys, the land of Hasle. Meyer
(ii. p. 38, and 1852 Alpewrosen, p. xxxtil, and P. P. G.
i. p. 281-2) states that about a hundred years before
1812 a Dr. Klaus is reported by the shepherds to have
made his way over the glaciers from Grindelwald to the
Grimsel. The Arst authentio passage was effected, Sept.
3, 1812, by Herr Eudolf Meyer, with Kaspar Huber and
Arnold Abbiihl, from the Grimsel Hospice to Grindelwald
(Meyer, ii., p. 38-44, 1852 Alpeiirosen, p. xxxiixxxvii,
and P. P. G. i. p. 281-2). This party certainly
mounted the present Strahleggfirn, and crossed most
probably at the noW usual point, for, though Meyer's
map gives, no name to the pass, his track is marked
thereon as passing close to the foot of the Schreckhorn
range. lie adds that the Zasenberg shepherds were
extremely surprised to see his party, for, so they said,
no man had hitherto forced his way through these
terrible regions. The day following, Herren Thilo and
H. Meyer followed the footsteps of the first party to the
top of the pass, but were forced to return by clouds,
etc., after attaining "the heights of the Grindelwald
glacier" (Meyer, ii. p. 44, 1852 Alpenrosen, p. xxxvii).
In 1816 Wyss' map marks Herr Meyer's track as on the
latter's map, but calls the whole ridge " Mittelgrat oder
Straleck." Hugl went to the top twice—once on Aug.
9, 1828 (see i. p. 99, 105, 107, 111-6), and once on
Jan. 12, 1832 (see ii. p. 41-2, 45). He seems to
have attained the ridge at or near the present pass,
for in 1830 he tells us that he was olose to the foot of the

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 73
Schreckhorn (i. p. 113), while in 1842 he states (ii. p. 45)
that the snow wall is best passable near the " Klein
kauteraarhorn." On his 1830 general map he attributes
'he name "Straleck" to the ridge at the head of the
present Strahlcggflrn, but does not mark his track; on
his special map of the Unteraar glacier, however, ha
marks the names "Strahleck" aud "Schneewand"
rather to the 8. of the present pass, but does not indicate
his track. In 1839 Herr Gottlieb Studer (like
Wo parties in 1835-6) crossed the " Alte Strahlegg," to
the S. of the present pass. But in 1840 MM. Agassiz,
Desor, Conlon, and Pourtales, with J. Leuthold, J.
W&hren, and three other guides, crossed the present
pass (Desor, 1. p. 186-208). Desor expressly states
(p. 193) that it was at the S. foot of the last spur of the
Schreckhorn, and certain allusions seem to show that
other parties had crossed here before Agassiz. On
Desor's map in his 1845 book the name " Strahleck" is
applied exclusively to his pass at the base of the
Schreckhorn, that of " Mittelgrat" being given to the
rest of the ridge. The 1st edition (1838) of Murray's
" Handbook for Switzerland " does not seem to mention
our pass, but in the 2nd edition (1842, p. 88-9) there
is a long account of a passage made by "J. D.,"
while an allusion is made to its traverse in 1841 by
a Scotch lady, Mrs. Cowan, In a chaise a porteurs
(see also, for this feat, Desor, i. p. 424-5, Studer's Top.
Mitt. p. 37, and his Panorama von- Bern, p. 76). In
1843 Mr. A. T. Malkiu went over the present pass
(A. J. xv. p. 120, and S. A. C. J. xxxlv. p. 203),
while in the 4th edition (1851, p. 85-6) of " Murray "
a second account of the pass is given, which was crossed
in Sept. 1848 by " W. B." Mr. John Ball crossed it on
Sept. 18, 1852 (P. P. G. 1. p. 255, 264-279).
See also Sohlagintweit, li. p. 21, Hinchliff, p. 86-54,
TyniUll's Glaciers of tfce Alps, p. 98-9, Hort, i. p. 827-9,

74 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
Girdlestone, p. 25-31, 118-121, A. J. iii. p. 208, iv.
p. 39, 319, ix. p. 486, xiv. p. 202-3, xvl. p. 390, xix.
p. 91, xxi, p. 45, S. A. C. J. vii. p. 278, 291, and Reims
Alpine, ii. p. 89, 41. Gruner (i. p, 41-9) describes the
Unteraar glacier.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut go along the level
surfaoe of the Ober Grindelwald Eismeer for a short
distance in a S.E. direction. Then turn sharp to the
E. and mount N.E. by the long rooky spur called
"Gagg" on the 8. map (2-2J hrs. to the top of this
spur). Half an hour's walk over gentle snow slopes
leads thence to the pass.
The main difficulty of the pass Is the famous wall on
the other side. Mr. Ball (p. 115) is of opinion that the
height of this wall is about 800 ft., while its inclination
never exceeds 48°, about the pitch of a good oldfashioned
roof. It varies much at different seasons,
being sometimes composed of snow or nev&, but some,
times of ice, when much step-cutting is required.
Late in the season it is wholly or mainly rock, and then
the couloir most to the r, hand (looking towards the
Strahleggflrn) should be taken—it leads down direct
from the depression of the pass. From the top of the
pass till over the bergschrund at the foot of the wall
reckon \ to 1} hr. The descent of the Strahleggflrn is
perfectly simple, and its junction with the Unteraar
glacier is attained in about 1 hr. or less. Thence \\ hr.
suffices to attain the Pavilion Dollfuss.
Mettenberg, 3107 m., 10,194 ft.
The name is easily explained by the position of this
peak between the two Grindelwald glaciers. In 1248 we
hear of the cession to the house of Austin Canons of
Interlaken, by the lords of Unspunnen, of "terra cum
monte qui dicitur Metenberch, quae sita sunt in Grlndelwalt
a glacis inferior! usque ad superiorem " (Fontea, ii.

THE SCHRECKHORN CROUP 75
P< 279). It may remain uncertain whether these pastures
gave their name to the peak above them, or whether
it took this name from them. la 1577 Thomas Schopf
writes of the " Mettelberg " or " der Mettler," and marks
the name "Mettelberg" on his map of 1578 ("Simler,"
P- 250», and S. A. C. J. xxxvi. p. 216)—probably he
meant to apply it to the whole range between the two
glaciers (S. A. C. J. xxviil. p. 240). The name Metten-
'berg is given by all the older writers—in 1608 by Kebmann
(p. 489), in 1642 by Merian (p. 26), in 1706 by
Hottinger (p. 72), in 1716 by Soheuohzer (p. 192), and in
*751 by Altmann (p. 31,139). In 1760 Gruner mentions
the peak (i. p. 79), illustrates it (p. 78, 89, 91), and
marks it on his map (No. 42).
The first recorded ascent was made, before 1817, by
Ilerr Friedrich Lehmann {pasteur of Grindelwald,
1805-1818), with a chamois hunter (Wyss,
P- 655-6)-\
Studer, Panorama von Vera, p. 224,.227. Aeby, p.
131 sqq. Plunket, p. 16-18. Ball, p. 69-70. S. A.C.
J. xv. p. 482, xvl. p. 503. Alpina, 1897, p. 61. D. &
Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1897, p. 33. Studer (Top. Mitt. p. 72)
mentions the names of three of the miuor points which
girdle the Mettenberg—Hohthnrnen (2000 m.), Eeissen
(2549 m.), and Brunnhorn (2437 m.). They are really
but buttresses projecting from the main mass.
From the Baregg Inn (1J-2 hrs. from Grindelwald,
above the r. bank of the Lower Grindelwald glacier) two
routes (both laborious, though not difficult) are open to
the traveller (5-6 hrs. each). The most direct mounts
steeply N.E. by the Liingenjaliu ravine, at first by sheep
pastures and debris, then past a spring and by a climb
up easy rocks to the watershed (gained at the Mettenbergjoch,
8054 ni.), whence a short ascent N.W. along
the ridge leads to the summit. The Other route (more

j6 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
roundabout) leads from the Baregg to the Stieregg
chalet, and then mounts by gross and debris in a N.E.
direction to the watershed, which is gained near the
Gwiichten, and is thence followed N.W. to the
top.
It is said to be possible to climb the Mettenberg
direct from the Upper Grindelwald glacier by way of
the Unter and Ober Wechsel and the Wechsel glacier.
The highest summit of the Mettenberg is not visible
from the main village of Grindelwald, which is hidden
by a lower point, down to which leads a short descent.
Mettenbergjoch, 3054 m., 10,020 ft.
Between the Mettenberg and the Gwiichten, from the
Btiregg to the Gleckstein Club hut.
Ilerr Emil Burckhardt, with Peter and Budolf Kaufmann,
Sept. 2,1872, mountod from the Stieregg chalet
by steep pastures, debris slopes, and a debris couloir
(then filled in its upper portion with snow), keeping in
a N.E. direction, to the crest of the ridge, which was
attained between the point marked 3094 m. and the
Gwiichten, 3169 in. (6J hrs., incl. halts, from Grindelwald).
An attempt to descend on the N. Bide, from the
top of the Gwiichten, failed, as the party should have
kept more to the N.W. (S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 42-3).
Mr. Felix 0. Schuster, with Peter Baumann, Aug.
1880, ascended the Gwachten from the Baregg Inn, and
from the top descended N.W. to the true pass, 8054 m.
on the S. map. A very steep and difficult descent
through the icefall of the Wechsel glacier led the party
down towards the Ober Grindelwald glacier. About
half-way down the glacier they were forced to take
to the rocks on the r. hand, but below them took again
to the ice. Easy rocks below the upper icefall of the
Ober Grindelwald glacier finally brought them to the
surface of that glacier (3} hrs. from the top), which was

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 77
crossed to the Schonbuhl, and Grindelwald readied by'
Hie usual way in 2J hrs. more (A. J. xiv. p. 157-8,
S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 392).
Gwachten, 3169 m., 10,397 ft.
Reached by both the above-named parties by the
N.W. ridge. Studer (Top. MM. p. 73, and Panorama
i>on Jiern, p. 227) apparently calls this peak the "Ober
Wandflub," saying that it is higher than the Mettenberg;
he adds that sheep graze there, and this statement
agrees with the S. map, which only gives the name
of Waudfluh to the spur extending 9.W. from the
summit of the peak to the Bimisegg.
Gwachtenjoch, 3159 m., 10,365 ft.
Between the Gwachten and the Klein Schreehhorn,
from the Ober Grindelwald Eismeer to the Ober
Grindelwald glacier.
(The second party, Herren H. Dubi and F. Wyss,
with Peter Kaufmanu, Sept. 1892, took 7 hrs. from
Grindelwald to the pass, stopping often to look for
chamois. 1 Proceeding by way of the Baregg and the
Stieregg, they rounded the Bunisegg ridge, and then
mounted by the grass and debris slopes of the Glattenwang,
the nameless glacier shown on the S. map, and
steep and rotten rocks, direct to the pass, 3159 m. The
descent on the other side was effected by Herr Burckhardt's
route).
Herr Emil Burckhardt's party (see above) from near
the top of the Gwachten followed the ridge in a S.E.
direction, but finally had to descend (losing a good bit)
and reascend to the pass (3 hrs. 10 min. from the
Gwachten, including halts and time lost in trying to
force a descent from the Gwachten). Descending nearly
due N. down the nameless glacier jihown on the S. map,
they rounded the N. spur of the Klein Schreckhom at

78 THE SCHRECKHOKN GROUP
the point marked 2815 m., and so attained the upper
snow-ilelds of the Ober Grindelwald glacier. But the
crevasses compelled them to make a long round towards
the Lauteraarsattel, so that it was only 3 hrs. 50 min.
after attaining the pass that the Gleckstein Club hut
was reached (S. A. C. J. xxi. p. 43).
Klein Schreckhorn, 3497 m., 11,474 ft-
This name is said to occur first on G. S. Studer's 1790
" Panorama de la Chalne des Alpes depuis les environs
de Berne" (8, A. C. J. xxviii. p. 258) j it appears
also on Hugi's general map in 1830, and in the text of
Desor, il. p. 178, and on his 1845 map. It is doubtless '
so named because of its astonishing likeness to its
greater neighbour,
1. From the £,
Mr. Eustace Anderson, with Chr. Aimer and Peter
13ohren, Aug. 7, 1857.
P. P. G. i. p. 235-232. S. A. C. J. xxxiv. p. 208.
After failing in an attempt on the Gross Schreckhorn,
the party, from the upper snows of the Ober Grindelwald
glacier, mounted the snow valley N.E. of the Klein
Schreckhorn, and by the rocky E. buttress of that peak
climbed up td the summit—this buttress (p. 248) appears
to be that S. of the figures 3497 m. 011 the S. map.
This route does not seem to have been repeated.
2. From the S. W,
Same party and date (pi 249-250, and track pn map).
Aeby, p. 147 sqq. A. J, iv. p. 157, Ball, p. 70,
Mr. Anderson's'party, on the descent, and his immediate
successors, Ilerr Aeby's and Sir H. N, Dering's
party (July 16, 1865)-—both up and down—and Sir F.
Pollock's party (Sept. 7,1868) on the ascent, seem to have
taken a very laborious route by the steep rocky S. W. face,

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 79
attained from the path beyond the Banisegg by way of
the nameless glacier N.E. of the name "Grossegg"
on the S. map. Herr Aeby's party left Grindelwald at
1 A.M., reached the foot of the S.W. rook wall at 7 A.M.,
and the top at midday, after 6 hours' hard climbing,
and returned to Grindelwald after an 18 hours' absence,
Sir F. Pollock left Grindelwald at 4.30, reached the
summit at 12.30, and regained Grindelwald at 7 P.M.
3> From the S.E. (usual route).
Sir F. Pollock (A. J. iv. p. 157) remarks on the danger
from falling iee blocks encountered on Rte. 2, and ou
his descent adopted his own suggestion of reaching and
traversing the glacier above the overhanging portion of
the Nassifirn. On June 4,1875, the rte. described below
•was taken, up and down, by Miss Brevoort and Rev.
W. A. B. Coolidge, With Chr. and Ulrich Aimer (see
Aimer's "Tuhrerbuch," facsimile edition, p. 192). See,
too, A. J. xix. p. 252.
From the Schwarzegg' Club hut (in 1875 from the
Kastenstein stone) mount N. by the W. branch of the
Nassifirn to the Nassijoch, 8420 m., and thenoe follow
the rocky ridge to the summit (4 hrs.).
4. From the S,
Mr. F. O. Schuster, with Peter Baumann and Christian
Bernet, July 31, 1885,
A. J. xiv. p. 157. S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 392-3, note.
D. & Oe. A. V. Zeitschrift, 1886, p. 472.
Having mounted from the Schwarzegg Club hut to
the Nassifirn (then difficult by reason of little snow), the
party, instead of taking the ordinary route by the S.E.
arete, climbed pretty straight up the S, face of the peak,
and struck the S. arete a short way below the summit.
On the descent the S. arete was followed throughout,
and the Nassifirn was not touched.

80 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
5. From the N. W.
Mr. Claude A. Macdonald, with Rudolf and Peter
Aimer, Aug. 17, J 898.
A. J. xix. p. 252, 326. S. A. C. J. xxxiv. p. 310.
From the Biiregg Inn (1J-2 hrs. from Grindelwald)
the first party followed the route to the Schwarzegg
Club hut for 1 hr. till round the end of the Bauisegg
ridge. They then bore N.E. up the Glattwang, by
Btones, grass slopes, and a small snow couloir, to a point
at the N.W. foot of the peak, and on the N.W. arete
(4i brs. from Grindelwald). Thence the N.W. arfte
was followed to the top (about 3} hrs.). The very large
boulders of which the arete is composed are extremely
loose; a perpendicular red cliff was scaled by means of a
crack, and a second similar cliff was similarly treated, but
a final big, red, and almost overhanging cliff had to be
turned on the N. by very bad and loose rocks. Beyond,
the arfite was regained, and an easy climb of 20 roin,
more led to the summit. The return to Grindelwald
by Ete. 1 occupied (with halts) 4$ hrs.
Nassijoch, 3420 m., 11,221 ft.
Between the Klein Schreckhorn and the Klein Ndssihorn,
from t/ie Schwarzegg Club hut to the
Gleckstein Club hut.
This is probably the "pass between the two Schreckhorns"
effected in 1875 by Mr. J. Walker Hartley, with
Peter Rubi (Pioneers, p. 158), for in Eubi's "Fuhrerbuch
" (p. 122) Mr. Hartley states that from their pass
the party' ascended the Klein Schreckhorn 1 he there
adds the information that the party included Sir Leslie
Stephen and Melchlor Anderegg.
Perhaps this is the pass that was actually crossed by
Messrs. S. F. Still and E. W. Ruck, with MUhlemann
and young Peter Taugwald, Aug. 27-8, 1867, by mistake
(A. J. iv. p. 39-41).

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP Si
The ascent from the Schwarzegg Club hut is by the
W. branch of the Nassifim as by Ete. 3 of the Klein
Schreckhorn. A very steep snow wall, with a great
bergschrund at its foot, leads dowu to the nameless
glacier (that mounted by Mr. E. Anderson in 1857 on
the way to the Klein Schreckhorn), which merges into
the upper snow-fields of the Upper Grindelwald glacier.
Klein Nassihorn, 3686 m., 12,094 ft -
Messrs. A. E. Field and R. \V. Broadrick, with
Alphonse Simond and P. J. Ravanel, Aug. 6,
1903.
A. J. xxi. p. 558.
Prom the Schwarzegg Club hut mount to the head of the
E. branch of the Niisainrn, and thence go straight up the
rocks, by the ridge running N.E. from the point marked
8295 m. on the S. map, to the summit (1 hrs. 40 min.,
inch all halts). On the descent the party descended
along the N.W. ridge for a little way towards the Klein
Schreckhorn. But finding many gendarmes on this
ridge, they traversed across its face, then took to it
again, and BO gained the Nassijoch.
Gross Nassihorn, 3749 m., 12,300 ft.
Studer {Top. Milt. p. 73, and Panorama voti Bern,
p. 224) gives to this peak another name as well,
Brandlerhom. It is often confused with the
Klein Schreckhorn, but is an entirely distinct
and independent summit.
Herr Emil Burckhardt, with Chr. Josbi and Peter
Schlegel, Aug. 2, 1885 (S. A. C.J. xxl. p. 44"9)-
See also D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1887, p. 234.
From the Schreckjoch follow the coruiched S.E.
arete to the top (20 min.). On the way, and just N.W.
of the Schreckjoch, is a snowy Bummit (which is perhaps
6

St THE SCHRECKHQRN GROUP
slightly higher than the Gr. Nassihorn, and rises at the
spot where the ridge running up from the Lauteraareattel
joins the main arete); this point is either crossed,
or skirted by means of its S.W, slope. Reckon 6-7
hrs. for this ascent from the Schwarzegg Club hut.
Schreckjoch, about 3688 m., about 12,100 ft.
, Between the Cross Nassihorn and the fCastensteinhomer,
from the Schwariegg Club hut to the
Lauteraar glacier.
Messrs. A. F. Mummery and 12. Fetherick, Aug.
17, 1889.
A. J. vii. p. 38, xiv. p. 504. S. A.. C, J. xxv.
p. 5*°-
From_Jhe Schwarzegg Club 'hut mount the great
couloir (partly used on Ete. 2 of the Gr. Schreckhorn)
la its entire length to the Ober Kasteusteinfiru (no
name on the S, map), which is gained near the point
marked 3316 in. on the S. map (3-4 hrs,). Traverse
this snow-field in a N. direction, and then mount to the
snowy depression of the pass (3 hrs. from point 8316
m.), either direct by steep snow slopes, or by a rock
rib just to their right hand. The pass is the lowest
depression between the Gr. Nissihorn and the Gr.
Bchreckhorn, and is just S.E. of the snowy summit
mentioned above (under the Gr. Nassihorn).
A steep but short slope of ice and snow, with a bad
bergschrund at its foot, leads down to the highest
plateau of the Lauteraar glacier; but owing to huge
crevasses, the level portion of that glacier was only
gained by the first party about 8J hrs. after quitting
the pass.
Kastensteinhb'rner, about 3810 m., 12,501 ft.
This name may be appropriately given to the serios
of rocky points (without names or heights on the S. map)

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 83
that rise between the snowy gap marked 8784 ni. on the
S. map and the Schreekjoch. They rise just N\W. of
the snowy gap marked 8784 m., and were all climbed
(private information) by Herreu Paul Montandon and
R. von Wyss, July 21, 1900, who from the Ober Kastensteiufirn
climbed straight up to the top of the S.E.
point by means of a rock rib (good steep rocks), and
then continued N.W. along the entire ridge, over several
rocky points, with corniches, and the Schreekjoch, to
the Gr. Nassihorn, that was thus Teached in 60 min.
from the S.E. Kastensteinhorn (which is accessible in
3 hrs, from the point marked 8316 m. on the 8. map).
Gross Schreckhorn, 4080 m., 13,386 ft. .
The name " Schreckshorn " occurs first in 1577 In the
text, and in 1578 on the map, of Thomas Schbpf, but
seems to really refer to the Finsteraarhorn, while the
Schreckhorn proper is included in the general term of
"Mettelberg" ("Simler," p. 250« and 48**, with map,
which i3 also reproduced in S. A. C. J. xxxvl, p. 218;
see also S. A. C. J. xxviil. p. 240). Iu 1606 Rebmann (p.
489) and in 1642 Merian (p. 26) mention the " Schrickshorn"
iu connection with the Mettenberg, so that in
this case the former name apparently refers to the real
Schreckhorn. In 1706 Hottinger (p. 72) oddly speaks
of the " Schrekeuhom Wetterhorn." But there is no
doubt that in 1751 Altmann's "Schreckhorn " (p. 138-9)
is our peak. In 1760 Gruner (i. p. 44, 61, 70, 77) mentions
the " Schrekhorn " (saying that the Upper Griudelwald
glacier flows down hetweea it and the Wetterhorn),
to which he also attributes the name of " Nadel" (i. p.
70), marks "Schrekhorn" on his map (under No. 41),
and illustrates it at p. 44. In 1795 Stettler (S. A. C. J.
xxxi. p. 359) mentions the "Schreckhorn," as, in
1816-7, does Wyss on his map and in his text (p. 634,
654, 675, 717, 769). Weiss' Atlas prefers the form

84 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
"Schrikshorn," while Meyer's map reads "Schrekhorn."
But from Hugl onwards the usual spelling
" Sohreckhorn " is constantly found.
Probably the popular derivation of the name (" Peak
of Terror ") is the wrong one. Studer {Panorama von
Bern, p. 227) tells us that it was formerly called
"Schrickshorn," and explains "Schrick" as a patois
word for a cleft or crack. But "Schreck" originally
meant that which springs high in the air. The name
thus refers to the form, of the peak, and not to the
impression made by it on men's minds.
The two small snow-fields on the N.W. slope of the
highest summit, and visible from afar, are known nowadays
to the natives as the "zwei weisse Taubchen"
(two little white doves or pigeons), or in the plains as
the "Augen " (eyes) (see S. A. 0. J. ii. 274-5). Studer
(Panorama von Bern, p. 224) calls them the "accursed
nuns" (die verjlicehteti Nonnen) or the "lost souls" (die
verdammien Seelen).
See in general A. J. viii. p. 62, and Appendix, p.
73sqq., Studer, i. p. 211 sqq., Desor, ii. p. 141, S. A. C. J.
ix. p. 537, and xix. p. 269 (both botany), x. p. 273, and
xix. p. 544. For the thermometrograph deposited from
1876 to 1885 on the summit, see ibid. xii. p. 468, xiii.
p. 573, and xxi. p. 567.
I. By the S. face.
Sir Leslie Stephen, with Chr. and Peter Michel and
Ulrich Kaufmann, Aug. 14, 1861.
P. P. G. 2nd series, vol. ii. p. I sqq. (reprinted in
Stephen, p. 70 sqq.). A. J. xiv. p. 321, note.
The first party started from the Kastenstein boulder
at 4.30 A.M., and seem to have gained the Schreckflrn by
probably the route generally taken nowadays, and so
the foot of the rocks (at 7.30 r.M.). Thence they
climbed the great rocky 8. face of the peak, mainly by

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 85
the S.E. bank of Hie great gully which is furrowed
deep in this face, and, as Sir L. Stephen states expressly,
runs straight down from the summit. The
final ridge was reached a few steps to the right hand
of the highest summit, and along that ridge the top
was attained at 11.40 A.M. The descent was made viii
the Strahlegg to the Kastenstein (12.40 r.M.-7.30 P.M.).
The printed account is not quite clear. It is stated
that from the point at which the final ridge was
attained, the party looked down on the Lauteraarsattel,
while "the ridge rose on our right hand into a kind
of knob, which allowed only a few yards of it to be
visible." The phrase "right hand " would point to the
party having attained the final ridge N.W. ol the top.
But Sir L. Stephen at once adds : " On the right hand
the long slope of snow ran down towards the Lauteraarsattel,"
a statement which is only accurate if the party
were climbing up the S.E. ridge of the peak. Further,
Peter Michel, One of the guides in 1861, took part in
the 2nd a-sceut, efl'ected in 1864. Herr E. von Fellen.
berg, in narrating his experiences (S. A. C. J. ii. p. 270-1)
during this climb, reports two remarks made by Michel,
which help to clear up doubts as to the route of 1861,—
it being premised that the 1864 party certainly reached
the Schrecksattel, and climbed the S.E. ridge thence.
One is that, when the 1864 party had got a considerable
way up this ridge, Michel showed them an empty bottle,
which, he said, he had left there in 1861, just at the
point where the 1861 couloir joins the main S.E. ridge
(the 1861 narrative, p. 9, mentions a drink taken at the
point at which the S.E. ridge was attained). Below,
Michel had at first led his party in 1864 lip the same
gully as in 1861. But as the rocks in 1864 were iced,
Michel exclaimed that his party must bear more to the
r., and gain the " Battel" and see if they could climb
the ridge thence.

86 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
Heuoe most probably, in the earlier phrase of the text
of the 1861 narrative, we should read "left hand" instead
of "right hand."
Sir Leslie Stephen's precise route does not seem to
have been followed by any later climber.
2. From the S.E. (usual route).
Ilerr E. von Fellenberg, with Peter Michel, Peter
Inabnit, and Peter Egger, Aug. 4, 1864.
(S. A. C. J. ii., p. 255 sqq., and Aeby,
p. 53 sqq-).
A. J. iii. p. 94, iy. p. 373. v »- P- 163, viii. p. 400, ix.
p. 184, 213 sqq., x. p. 79-80, xiii. p. 113, 466,
xiv. p. 202-3, 2 48> xv. p. 201-2, xviii. p. 409,
xix. p. 594-5. S.* A. C. J. vi. p. 439-480, ix.
p. 161. Schlltz Wilson, p. 230-252. Wundt,
p. I37 sqq. D. & Oe. A. V. Zeitschrift, 1886,
p. 477. 1889, p. 369, 371 sqq. D. & Oe. A. V.
Mitt. 1885, p, 69-72, 1887, p. 234, 1889, p. 25,
38. «897. P- 33- Oe. A. Z. 1885, p. 219, 1895,
p. 234. Alpina, 1897, p. 97, no, 1903, p. 203.
. Revue tilpine, ii. p. 43.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut the Schreckflrn, at the
S. foot of the peak, may be reached by one or other of
two routes ;—
1. The more usual way (exposed to ice avalanches to
a certain extent from the overhanging glacier to the r.
hand) is to go N.E. to the foot of a considerable snow
couloir which descends from the Ober Kastensteinfiru,
and runs up N.E. of the figures 2788 m. of the S. map.
This couloir Is then ascended by step-cutting (you can
also take to the good rocks on the r, hand, a quicker
route, D. & Oe. A. V. Zeitschrift, 1889, p. 877) till it
becomes easy to bear r. by some rocks to the Sehreckfirn.

tllE" SCtiRECK'HORN GROUP 87
2. A safer route (now often taken, Bee P. P. G. lii. p. 13,
Studer, i. p.'231, Aljpiim, 1897, p. 110, 1903, p. 203,
Oe. A. Z. 1894, p. 110) is to follow the ordinary Strahlegg
route till above the rocky spur of "Gagg," and then
to bear N. hy a steep snow or Ice slope (step-cutting) to
the Schreckflrn.
In either case the Schreckfim Is mounted in a N.E.
direction, and the great bergsohrund, at the foot of the
rock wall leading up to the Schrecksattel (3978 m.),
crossed. The Schrecksattel must then be reached by
one of several routes. The 1864 party, having started in
Sir L. Stephen's couloir, were forced over the rocks to
the N.E. (on the proper r. bank of the main couloir descending
from the "Battel"), and so reached the Battel.
(A somewhat similar route was taken In 1883 by Herreu
Strauss and Bleringer, with J. Kederbacher, and on
Ang. 10, 1885, by Herren Laiumer and Lorria, see D. &
Oe. A. V. Zeitschrtft, 1889, p. 877, and 1886, p. 477,
and Oe. A, Z. 1885, p. 219). In a very snowy year, such
as 1806 (so the 3rd party, Viscount Melguud and Mr. H.
Walker,'June 28, 1866, with M* Anderegg and Peter
Bohren, A. J. iii. p. 94, and Studer, 1. p. 237), or under
very favourable circumstances, it is possible to climb or
cut up the whole of the main couloir, and so reach the
Sattel direct. Generally, however, it is necessary to
climb the rocks on the proper 1. bank of the great main
couloir (sometimes, when the snow is in a bad state, it is
best to take to one of the rock ribs, more to the r., which
divide various minor couloirs or gullies from each other),
and so attain the " Sattel," the last bit up to the Sattel
being climbed by the great couloir itself. But whichever
route is taken, there is always a certain amount of
danger from falling stones, loosened by the rays of the
sun.
From the "Sattel" the ascent is completed by the
very sharp and jagged rocky S.E. arete, this arete being

88 THE SCHRECKHORN CROUP
first gained by the steep N.E. ice or snow slope, where
Mr. Elliott slipped in 1809. (This slope can be avoided
by keeping on the W. side of the lowest rocks, and
rounding on its W. side the rock tower in which the
rocks end, Herren C. Seelig and H. Bnm, July 26,1897,
Alpina, 1897, p. 110).
The distance between the "Sattel" and the top
requires 1J-3 hrs., according to circumstances. Reckon
for the whole ascent from the Schwarzegg Club hut to
the top 6-8 hrs., according to the condition of the
peak.
3. From the N.E. (Lauteraarsattel).
Messrs. W. M. and R. Pendlebury, with Peter
Baumann and Peter Kaufmann, July 11, 1873.
A. J. vi. p. 298, vii. p. 34 sqq., xiv. p. 156, note, xv.
p. 370. S. A. C. J. vii. p. 531, xxvi. p. 397.
Studer, i. p. 238.
The first party thus summarises its route from the
Lauteraarsattel: "The Lauteraarsattel ridge was followed
to the base of the final peak, and the ascent
thence completed by the N. face of the mountain, on a
line keeping nearly straight upwards to the summit, and
joining the usual 8.K ar6te 10 or 15 min. from the top."
(6£ hrs., incl. halts, from the pass to the peak). The
way is described in the fuller aocount as not difficult
from the pass to the bergschrund at the foot of the great
N.E. snow wall, but the ridge leading upwards from the
pass to the bergschrund is composed of very crumbling
rock, so that, if (as U recommended) this route be taken
from the Pavilion Dollfuss, it would save much time to
ascend from the Lauteraar glacier by an easy niWiS slope
to the bergschrund. Above the bergschrund, "stepcutting
was impossible," and the way very difficult,
leading alternately over ice or rocks, or thin ice on
rocks.

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 89
The second party (Mr. H. Woolley, •with Chr. Jossi
and Hans Kaufmann, July 28,1887) took, owing to the
unfavourable snow, 11 hrs. 20 min. (inch halts) from
the Gleokstein Club hut to the top (as againBt 10 hrs.
55 min. employed by the first party).
Mr. Claude A. Maodonald, with Chr. Jossi and J.
Taugwalder, July 25,1890, took the following route on
his way dawn from the top to the Lauteraarsattel:—
" Leaving the top at 8.45 A.M., we took to a rib of rook
running apparently half-way down the E. side of the
mountain, starting just S. of the first or pseudo-summit
of the mountain, an4 bounded on the 1. by a long and
nasty-looking ice couloir. Owing to the high angle
at which the mountain lies on the E. side, great care
had to be exercised, and we were some two hours in
descending to the extremity of the rocks j we then had
to cut downwards across the ice couloir on the 1. to a
patch of rocks on the 1.; this took us till 12.30. From
the end of these rocks we cut across the couloir to what
seemed the continuation of our original rib, whence we
reached the foot of the mountain in an hour more; this
brought us to the S.W. of the snow saddle running to
the Lauteraarjoch rock arete, and a quarter of an hour's
walking found us on the Upper Grindelwald glacier. . . .
The rocks are good, and the expedition seems to me,
with ordinary care, a good one, and not dangerous, and,
besides, likely to be less trying and laborious than the
traverse the reverse way successfully accomplished by
Messrs. Pendlebury and Woolley."
4. From the N. IV.
Messrs. J. Stafford Anderson and G. T. Baker,
with Ulrich Aimer and Aloys rollinger, Aug. 7.
1883.
A. J. xi. p. 364, 437 sqq., xxi. p. 500-1, 503.
Oe. A. Z. 1898, p. 297 sqq.

90 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
• From the Seliwarzegg Club hut follow the Solireokjooh
route up the snow couloir generally mounted on the
ordinary route (No. 2) to the Gr. Schreckhorn, but keep
1. where the Gr, Schreckhorn route bears to the r., and
climb the whole of the couloir, as for the Sohreckjoch,'
to the Ober Kastensteinfirn, which is •reached near the
point marked 8316 m, on the S. map (3-4 hrs,). Traverse
this to the foot of the Tidge between the Gr.
Nassihorn and the Gr. Schreckhorn, and gain that ridge
at the snowy gap marked 8781 m. on the S. map
(3-3J hrs.). Hence the N.W. arete (steep but good
rocks) is climbed to the summit (3 hrs. 10 mm. was
taken by the first party). The first party turned the
first great rock step on the arete by a narrow ledge and
an Ice wall, both on its N.E. side, then encountered a
rock tooth, which was also turned on the N.E., the
ridge itself being thence followed. It is possible also to
keep always on the crest of the ridge (Mr. H. Speyer,
with Chr. Jossi and Hans Kaufmann, Aug. 81, 1887,
I>. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1887, p. 234).
Herren G. Lammer and A. Lorrla, alone, Aug, 10,
1885, succeeded in descending from the top by this route,
turning on the N.E. various obstacles, and taking about
4J hrs. from the top to the ridge at or hear the snowy
gap marked 3784 ni. (A. J. xii. p. 424, xlii. p.' 188, D. &
Oe. A. V. Zeitschrtft, 1886, p. 471 sqq., D. & Oe. A. V.
MM. 1885, p. 222, Oe. A. Z. 1885, p. 219, S. A. C. J.
xxi. p. 48).
5. By the S. IV. ridge.
Messrs. J. II. Wicks, E. II. F. Bradby, and C.
Wilson, July 26, 1902. • . .
,A. J. xxi. p. 269, 501-2. S. A. C. J. xxxviii.
p. 356.
The first party from the Schwarzegg Club hut reached
the upper level of the Schreckfirn by the usual route

THE SCHRECKIIORN GROUP 9r
(3j lira.). Hence a steep rook buttress running due W.
Was climbed to the point where It joins the main S.W,
arSte, at a spot about 600 feet below the Sohreeksattel,
8978 m. (3 hrs.). Thence the S.W. ridge was followed
closely (one bit of sheer rook, 7-8 ft., is overcome by
means of a gully on the 1.) to the summit of the peak
(3j hrs.). " If ice-free, no real difficulties are met with,"
while future climbers may (as is generally the case) save
probably much time on. that employed by the first
explorers.
Schrecksattel, 3978 m., 13,052 ft.
Between the Gross Schreckhom and the Gross Lauterdarhorn,
from the Lauteraar glacier to the
Schwarsegg Club hut.
Mr.' Gerald Arbuthnot, with Chr. Jossi, Sept. 20,
1899.
A. J. vii. p. 38-9^ xix. p. 600. S. A. C. J. xxi.
p. 49, xxxv. p. 306.
The first party started from the Gleckstein Club hut,
and crossed the Lauteraarsattel. After descending from
the pass for about 20 ruin., they worked their way across
the Lauteraarfirn in a S.W, direction to the foot of a
broad ice couloir which leads up to the desired pass
(just over 10 hrs. from the start). "After passing the
bergschrund at a point somewhat to the N. of the
couloir, they ascended an ice slope to the rib of rock
which bounds the couloir on its N. side (2 hrs. 10 min.).
They followed this, making occasional use of the couloir
itself, until a point was reached above the strip of
hanging glacier near the top of the couloir (Z\ hrs.).
An upward traverse was then made across the final
slope of ice to the col (3J hrs.)."
The. descent to the Schwarzegg Club hut was made by
Rte. 2 of the Gross Schreckhorn;

9« THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
Gross Lauteraarhorn, 4043 m., 13,265 ft.
In 1760 Gruner (i. p. 44) gives the name Lauteraarhorn
in the case of one of his illustrations, and on his
map (No. 27), and in his text (p. 46). On the
maps of Weiss, Meyer, and Wyss the name
appears regularly.
For a curious cloud formation over this peak, see
S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 359. See generally Studer,
Panorama von Bern, p. 224.
I. From the S. or S.E. (usual route).
MM. Desor, Girard, and Escher von der Linth, with
J. Leuthold, D. Brigger, — Fahner, M. Bannholzer,
and J. Madutz, Aug. 8, 1842.
Desor, i. p. 534 sqq. A, J. viii. Appendix, p. 72,
x. p. 493, xi. p. 32, xiii. p. 466, xiv. p. 202, .
323, xviii. p. 499-500, xxi. p. 270. S. A. C. J.
vii. p. 270 sqq., 288, xxi. p. 50-2, xxxvi. p. 271.
Oe. A. Z. 1903, p. 150. Revue Alpine, ii. p. 39.
The first two parties went either from the Hotel des
NeuchStelois, on the moraine of the Unteraar glacier (so
Desor's party), or from the Pavilion Dollfuss (so Herr
Eduard Burckhardt-Zahn, with Peter Egger and the
two Peter Michels, Aug. 22,1869), by the Strahlegg route,
to the foot of the side glacier which descends S.E. from
the peak (some way up it the S. map marks a blue
curve of 3300 m.) In about 8 hrs. Then they climbed
up by snow slopes and rocks to the S.E. arete, which
seems to have been gained at a spot to the S.E. of a
conspicuous rock tooth that rises on it between two
long snow couloirs. This tooth caused some difficulty,
and is best turned by its S. base. A shattered rock
ridge (good rocks) then leads to the summit (4 hrs. from
the spot where the Strahlegg route Is left).

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 93
If coming from Griudelwald over the StraMegg, it is
best, from the very foot of the StraMegg wall (3J-4 hrs.
from the Schwarzegg Club hut), to climb straight up the
good rocks of the S. face or ridge of the peak, taking to
the more westerly of the two snow couloirs at the end,
and so gaining the S.E. arete at about (or higher than)
the point marked 3955 in. on the S. map (and thus
N.W. of the rock tooth), and then following it more
or less to the top (4 hrs. from the Strahleggtirn). On
the descent, a glissade down this W. couloir leads down
to the Strahleggflru in 1J hr. from the top of the peak.
2. From the W,
Messrs. J. Oakley Maund and J. Eaumann, with J.
Jaun, A. Maurer, and E, Rey, August 4, 1881.
A. J. xi. p. 27 sqq. S. A. C. J. xxl. p. 51-2. Oe.
A. Z. 1885, p. 220.
From the Schwarzegg Club hut gain, by the ordinary
route (No. 2) up the Gr. Schreckhorn, the Schreckfirn.
Cross it to the foot of the peak, and after traversing a
great bergschrund, climb in J hr. up rocks to the ridge
descending towards the Strahlegg Pass. Mount this till
it merges (in about 1 hr.) into the main mass of the
mountain. Then bear 1., by some very narrow and
slippery ledges, to a small buttress of rotten rock, which
conceals the W. face of the peak. Now mount straight
up (very rotten rocks) till you reach a patch of yellow
on the face, that is easily recognisable. Then bear again
to the 1., and by good rocks (much exposed to falling
stones) climb up to the N.W. arete of the peak, which
was struck probably rather S.E. of the deep gap to
which the ridge sinks S.E. of the point marked 4030 m.
(7| hrs., incl. halts, from the Schwarzegg Club hut).
Hence the arete is followed, as far as possible, to the
summit (1J hr.). But the ridge is in parts a mere knife.

94 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
edge, and is studded with bold rock teeth. Twice it is
necessary to turn such teeth by narrow ledges on the
W. face, and once it Is necessary to do so.by an ice
slope on the Lauteraar glacier side and a projecting
slab. One of these teeth (only 10 mln. from the highest
summit) is a very striking needle (S. A. C. J. xxl. p. 61),
and was reached twice in 1885 fromtheculminatingpoint.
The first party took about 9 hours' walking from the
Schwarzegg Club hut to the summit.
3. From the S. W. (Strahlegg ridge).
Very little is known as yet about this route, and
particularly the precise points in which it differs from
the W. face route just described. On an attempt, July
28, 1881, Mr. Maund's party (in J hr.) gained this
ridge from the Schreckfirn, and followed it from the
spot gained for about 1 hr., till it merges into the great
W. face: on the way down they descended from that
point the whole of this ridge to the Strahlegg (A. J. xl.
p. 29-30). On Aug. 3, 1885, Herr G. Lammer, alone
(Oe. A. Z. 1885, p. 220, D. & Oe. A. V. Zeitschrtft, 1886,
p. 475, and A. J. xii. p. 424), states that with extreme
difficulty he forced his way tip this ridge till about 70 or
80 m. below the summit of the peak. Overhanging rock
then proved impossible to climb in any way, so that
Herr Lammer had to effect a difficult traverse across the
S. face of the peak, till he was able to join the ordinary
route (No. 1), and so attain the Strahleggflrn.
On July 21, 1894 (see S. A. C. J. xxx. p. 465 ; details
have been courteously communicated to us by Herr
Sommer), Herr and Frau Sommer, with, Jacob Miiller
(of Gsteigwyler) and Ed. Feuz (of Interlaken), from the
SchwarzeggClubhut.climbed up by the Schreckfirn, without
encountering any great difficulties, to the S.W,
ridge, which was gained between the points marked
8757 m. and 3510 m. (about 4 hrs. from the Club hut).

THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP 95
Thence the party descended to the Strahlegg (about
•4 hrs,), following the crest where possible, or else its N.
or S. elope. The most difficult bit was the passage of a
very steep gully, descending towards the Strahleggflrn,
but many loose stones were found throughout.
On Aug. 23, 1894, a French party remarks of this
ridge: "cette arute parait peu praticable" [Revue Alpine,
ii. p. 39), and adds that "nos guides [Chr. Bohren, sr.
and jr.] ignoraient mime qu'elle eut jamais ete faite."
Herr E. F. L. Fankhauser, with Chr. Jossi, Oct. 6,1900,
states that, in the Schwarzegg Club hut Travellers*
Book, it is said that on Aug. 18, 1900, two Russians,
named Kirschten, with J. Bernet and Peter Jaggi, made
the third ascent 'by this route, taking 10 hrs. up from
the Club hut. Herr Fankhauser states that after
having followed the S.W. ridge from the Strahlegg as
far as the great break, he himself climbed up the N.W.
wall with great difficulty. Leaving the Strahlegg at
7.10 A.M., and halting but 1 hr. on the way, the party
reached the summit at 4.15 F.M., the climb having been
much hindered by enormous quantities of fresh powdery
snow and bad weather (S. A. C. J. xxxvi. p. 270-1).
This party reached the summit direct, without apparently
touohing the N.W. arOte, so that this feature
seems to distinguish this route from that of the 1881
party (Ete. 2).
The S.W. route was taken again by Miss Gertrude
Lowthian Bell, with TJ. and H. Fulirer, July 24, 1903
(Alpina, 1903, p. 204).
4. From the NAV.
As stated above (Rte. 2), the upper portion of the
N.W. ar6te was traversed by the 1881 party. But the
whole ridge between the Sohrecksattel and the peak
was not climbed (despite several attempts) till July
24, 1902, by FrSulein Helens Kuntze, with Peter and

96 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
Eudolf Beraet (A. J. xxl. p. 270, S. A. C. J. xxxviii.
p. 356, Alpina, 1903, p. 204, and a detailed account in
Oe. A. Z. 1903, 145-151). Starting from the Schwarzegg
Club hut, this party reached the Schreckfirn by
the usual Schreckhorn route (Rte. 2). They then bore
N.E., and by the rocky buttress marked 3494 m. on the
S. map, and difficult rocks, gained the crest of the ridge
a little S.E. of the Schrecksattel (7 hrs. 10 min., incL
halts)—probably 2 hrs. would be saved by mounting
direct to the Schrecksattel. The first two rock towers
were easily climbed over, the big slanting slab at the
foot of the next was turned on the N., and so the top of
the tower attained. The crest of the ridge was then
followed, and another tower was scaled by its VV. face
(2 hrs. 20 min. from the spot where the ridge was struck).
The point marked 4030 m. on the S. map was then
gained. From 4030 m. a descent was made into a deep
gap, followed by a small tower, which was scaled by its
W. face. A last gendarme (not difficult) was gained in
1J hr. from 4030 m. Thenoe the arete was followed
over a depiession and a final pinnacle, in 1 hr. 10 min.,
to the highest summit (about 5 hrs. from the spot where
the ridge was struck). Fraulein Kuntze Is of opinion
(Oe. A. Z. 1903, p. 150, note) that the spot where the
1881 party (Ete. 2 above) gained the N.W. ridge was
rather S.E. of the deep gap to which the ridge sinks
S.E. of the point 4030 m.
The same day Miss Gertrude Lowthian Bell, with U.
and II. Fuhrer, made the same expedition, but in the
reverse direction (Alpina, 1903, p. 204, 219-220).
Klein Lauteraarhorn, 3742 m., 12,277 ft-i and
3720 m., 12,205 ft.
Ilerren II. Biehly, Charles Montandon, and R. von
Wyss, July 12, 189$ (S. A. C. J. xxxii. p.
122 sqq.).

THE 3CHRECKH0RN GROUP 97
From the Pavillpn Dollfuss the first party in 6J hrs.
went to the foot (guarded by a bergschrund) of a steep
snow and ice couloir, which descends S.W. from the
8. ridge of the peak to the glacier flowing down from
the Gross Lauteraarhorn. The ascent of this steep
couloir presented some difficulties, and took 2} hrs.
to the crest of the ridge. After making a traverse in
the rocks of the E. flank of the peak below the S. ridge,
the party regained the S. ridge, and So reached the S.
summit, 0. 8720 m. (nearly 7 hrs. from the foot of the
couloir). The point attained is the most southerly of
three points, of which the most northerly is 20 m.
higher than that reached, but the central decidedly
lower. These two points seem to be still untouched.
Hugihorn, 3622 m., 11,884 ft.
The figures 3648 m. on the S. map are wrong, for
this point is lower than 362? m. Named by
Agassiz in 1840 in honour of the Alpine explorer,
F. J. Hugi, 1796-1855 (Desor, i. p. 162, Studer,
Top. Mitt. p. 172).
Herr and Frau Faul Montandon, with Albert Huggler,
Aug. 13, 1897 (S. A. C. J. xxxiii. p. 193-4).
From the Pavilion Dollfuss follow the Strahlegg route
for about 8 hrs., leave it a little N. of the letter " F " of
the words " Strahlegg Firn" on the S. map, and by
bonders, debris, and snow mount' N.E. to the small
Hugihorn glacier, which is at the S. foot of the peak
04 hr.). Mount this glacier, cross two bergschrnnds,
and attain the summit (2 hrs. 50 min. from the point at
which the glacier is gained) either by the rocky S.W.
ridge (by the lower edge of a snow-field not marked on
the S. map),or by the rocky S.E. ridge, to which a great
snow-filled gully leads up. The point reached, 3622 m.,
seems to be really a good deal higher than that marked
3648 m„ to the N.W.
7

98 THE SCHRECKHORN GROUP
Lauteraar Rothorner, 3485 m., 11,434 ft., and
3478 m., 11,411 ft.
Herr Paul Montandon, with Albert Huggler, Aug,
'S, 1897 (S. A. C. J. xxxiii. p. 194-7).
From the Pavilion Dollfuss follow the Stralilegg route
for 1 % hr., then climb a gully (avalanche snow) N.W.
of the figures 2S76 m. to the small Rothorn glacier,
S.E. of the peak. About one-third of the way up leave
this couloir for the rocks to its W., and so gain the
glacier (1} hr.). At its farther end climb up a narrow
steep snow gully to the ridge S.E. of the peak (3 hrs,
25 min.). Go down another gully on the other side
(Stralilegg) for a little way, then climb up by gullies and
good rocks to the summit of 3485 m. (55 min.). The top
of the narrow gully may be named Lauteraar Rothornlilcke,
and is about 3330 m. (10,024 ft.).
On the descent) the first party, from near the Lauteraar
Eothornliicke, descended on the W. side in 25 min. by
an easy rock and snow couloir and the Hugi glacier to
the Strahlcggfirn: a perpendicular rock (about 2 tnfctres
high), near the upper end of the couloir, may be turned
on its N, side.
Abschwung:, 3143 m., 10,312 ft.
The term Im Abschwung occurs (though not as
regards a summit) on the maps of Wyss (1816),
of Rohrdorf (1828), and of Hugi (1830), as well
as in Ilugi's text (1830 book, p. 229, 1842 book,
P- 78).
Herr G. Hasler, with Chr. Jossi, Oct. 13, 1901 (A.
J. xxi. p. 45, S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 305).
From the foot of the peak (5J hrs. from the Sehwarz.
egg Club hut by way of the Stralilegg Pass) follow the
long snow couloir S.W. of the figures 2490 m. on the S.
map to a kind of pass that overlooks the Lauteraar

THE SCHRECKHQRN GROUP 99
glacier (1£ hr.). The well-defined summit (o. 3300 m.,
10,924 ft.), immediately S. of the letter A in the word
" Abschwung" on the S. map, was reached in 1 hour's
good rock scrambling and the lower summit, 8143 m.,
in 10 min. from the pass.
Lauteraarsattel, 3156 m., 10,355 ft-
Between (he Cross Nassihom and the Berglistockt
from the Cleckstcin Club hut to the ravillon
Dollfuss.
In 1760 Gruner, i. p. 44-9, describes and illustrates
the Lauteraar glacier, while the pass is alluded
to in 1795 by Stettler (S. A. J. C. xxxi. p. 360),
and by Studer in 1839 (Top. Mitt. p. 31).
It was first visited, July or August 1842, by M. Girard,
with J. Berger (Desor, i. p. 491, 531-2), who took 4hrs.
from the hut on the Unteraar glacier to the top, but
considered that the descent on the other side was
impossible. (Herr G. Studer had thought of crossing it
in 1831, see B. & G. ii. p. 62, while Desor gives an
illustration of it, 1. p. 156, and marks it on the map in
Ms vol. ii.). Desor noticed it, August 28,1844, from the
Bosenhorn (ii. p. 141). It was first crossed August 31,
1844, by the guides J. Jaun and M. Bannholzer on their
return from the Hasle Jungfrau to the hut on the
Unteraar glacier (Desor, ii. p. 164-5); while in 1845
it was crossed, July 8, by Mr, Bpeer's party on the way
to the Mittelhorn (A. J. xvii. p. 109-110), and July
29-30 by M. Agassiz's party on their way to and from
the Hasle Jungfrau (S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 390, 393).
It was again traversed, August 22, 1857, by Ilerreu S.
Porges and A. Stern, and Captain J. R. Campbell,
with Christian Aimer and U. Kaufmann, when for the
first time the pass was used as a route from Griudelwald
to the Grimsel (A. J. i. p. 60-2, and S. A. C. J. xxxiv.
p. 208), and not simply as a means of access to one or

loo THE SCHRECK'HORN GROUP
other of the Wetterhbrner. For a summary of this
history nee A. J. xvii. p. 116-7, and Studer, i. p. 228-8.
Aeby, p. 83-38. George, p. 102-115. B. & G. it. p.
60-87. Hugi, i. p. 145,147. P. P. G. 1. p. 245. A.J.
i. p. 433, ii. p. 268, iv. p. 155, vi. p. 298, vil. p. 84-7,
x. p. 46, 109, xvi. p. 402. S. A. 0. J. 1. p. 560, x. p.
576, xx, p. 157-8, xxi. p. 65, 68. Oe. A. Z. 1886, p. 285.
Alpina, 1898, p. 7-8,
From the Gleckstein Club hut the snow-fields of
the uppermost portion of the Ober Grindelwald
glacier may be reached either by bearing N.E. to the
Krinne glacier, and then climbing up the snow and
ice slopes which extend between the points marked
2856 m. and 2765 m. on the S. map (a rocky couloir a
little N. of 2765 enables the crevasses, if open, to be
turned), or (better) by very soon working round the
very head of the Lammgraben, and then keeping low
down by debris bands and across gullies to the r.
bank of the Ober Grindelwald glacier. (Mr. G. JB.
Foster, with Hans Baumanh, July 23, 1868, descended
the Icefall of the Upper Grindelwald glacier from the
pass, to below the Gleckstein, A. J. iv. p. 165). Vast
snow-fields are then mounted to the foot of the wall
which forms the pass. Sometimes it is better to cross it
N. of the lowest depression/sometimes at this depression
itself. In either case \ hour's climb up a steepish snow
slope and some rocks leads to the merest (4 hrs. from the
Gleckstein Club hut).
A steep snow or ice slofe (a rock rib may also be
followed) leads down from the true pass, or a rocky
wall from the other point taentioned (the bergschrund
at the foot of either may be trbublesome), In \ hr. to the
Lauteraar glacier. ' All is now plain sailing. In about
2 hrs. the junction of the Lauteraar and Finsteraar
glaciers is gained, and in 1 hr. more (3} hrs. from the
pass), by a short climb, the Pavilion Dollfuss.

SECTION VI
The Wetterhorn Group
FROM THB WELLBORN TO THE WETTERLIMMI
Unter Wellborn, 2688 m., 8819 ft.
Named Sthotmibiihlhorn by Gtuner in 1760 (i. p. 68,
and illustration, p. 65), but not named on the
S. map, save as part of the Welligrat. The name
Unter Wellborn does not appear on the S. map,
but is in common use at Meiringen. The peak
is also sometimes called Vorder Wtllhorn,
1. BytheN.E. arlte.
Messrs. C. E. Freeman and H. C, Bowen, with II.
and Simon ZurflUh, Aug. 7, 1893.
A. J. xvi. p. 519. S. A. C. J. xxix. p. 268.
"Rosenlaui Climbing Book" (MS.)i p. 28 sqq.
From Rosenlaui follow the Gross Scheidegg path
towards Schwarzwald for a short way, and then mount
S. to the Schbnenbtthl Alp. A well-defined path leads
hence in an E. direction to the grassy gap S. of the
point marked 1918 m. on the S. map (1 hr. CO nita.)>
Now follow a track used formerly by carriers of iron ore.
This goes at first straight up the mountain-Hide over

102 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
screes, till the actual cliff on tlie N.E. face is reached.
A small cairn marks the spot where the track hears
horizontally to the E., passing round a bay and immediately
above the big gully at the foot of the mountain.
About the middle of this bay the track (very ill-defined)
mounts straight up by irregular zigzags to a gap in the
path, over which it is necessary to stride (35 min.). This
" stride " can be easily recognised, as it is in the centre
of a shallow scarped gully, with water dripping, and is
on a level with the lowest buttress seen from the grassy
gap, as you look upwards to the summit. Hence the
path mounts in an E. direction to the two small iron
mines (one above the other) (see Studer's Panorama von
Hern, p. 229), where it ends (35 min.). Now traverse
to the E. for a shrfrt distance till you see a long gully
leading up towards the peak. Climb up this gully for
20 min. to a spot where there were formerly two jammed
stones (now fallen). Here leave the gully for a deep
and well-marked gap (close at hand, with below it a
piece of scarped rock, which requires a long step) in the
N.E. artite (that to the 1. hand in mounting), whence the
Rosenlaui glacier becomes visible (5 min.). The ascent
hence by the N.E. arete to the top takes 50 min. more
(reckon i\ hrs. from Rosenlaui to the summit). Two
smooth bits of rock have to be climbed on the side
facing the Rosenlaui glacier, and then the ridge crossed
by an awkward corner: a little higher up it must be
recrossed to the side facing the glacier, and then a
narrow ledge (the rook here literally overhangs the
glacier) close to the arete Is ascended. The climb
beyond is an easy scramble.
"A good deal of care is necessary, on account of the
rottenness of the rooks and the number of loose stones."
2. By the S. W. arltt.
See Rte. 3 of the Gross Wellhoro.

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 103
Gros3 Wellhorn, 3196 m., 10,486 ft.
Named SchonbUhlhorn (doubtless from the Alp at
its N. foot) about 1716 by Bodmer (S. A. C. J.
xxviii. p. 245). But the name Wellhorn is given
in 1760 by Gruner (i. p. 68, illustration, p. 69,
and map, No.' 39)i who sav s (P- 68 ) th ** the
lowest summit of the Wellhorn is called Schonenbuhlhom.
Wyss (p. 697) in 1817 says that in
the Hasle valley this peak is named Wetterhorn.
Studer {Panorama von Bern, p. 45) mentions
the two names of Blumkom and of Schonenbilhlhorn.
1. By the E. arlte (usual route).
llerr. E. von Fellenberg, with Christian Michel and
Peter Egger, July 31, 1866.
S. A. C. J. v. p. 436 sqq., xxxvii. p, 61. A. J. vi.
p. 146, xxi. p. 558.
From the S.E. foot of the peak (2 lira, from the
Dossen Club hut) traverse the lower rocks of the Wellhorn
at a level, cross a small hanging glacier, aud reach
the E. arete, which is followed to the summit, a long
ridge capped with snow at its farther end (J hr.). The
rocks look most formidable (Moore, new ed., p. 367),
but are quite easy, though rather loose.
2. By the S.E, face and the S. arlte,
Messrs. F. Gare, Legh S. Powell, and Fletcher, Aug.
17, 1889, from the S.E. foot of the mountain " mounted
over moderate rocks, and bearing somewhat to the left
struck the S. arete above some high rock towers not far
from the summit. The arete is here wide, and is easily
followed in a few minutes to the top (2 hrs. from the
glacier)." (Private information).!

104 THE WETTERHORN GXOUP
3. ByiheN.E.artlt.
The arete between thft Unter and Gross Wellhorn is
named Welligrat on the S. map,
Mr. G. Collier, with an unnamed guide, Sept. 19,1901
("Eosenlaul Climbing Book," p. 33), climbed'a point
about 150 yards distant from the Unter Wellhbru, but
rather higher and forming part of the Welligrat t it was
reached from the Unter Wellhorn by descending easy
rocks for about 150 ft. in order to gain a grassy ledge
running along the E, side of the peak—there was plenty
of hold on this ledge (despite its unattractive appearance
from above), and the ascent to the point mentioned
(named "Lily's Peak") only needed caro.
The ridge between the Unter and Gross Wellhorn was
traversed by Miss Gertrude Lowthian Bell, with Ulricli
and H. Fuhrer, July 12, 1902 (A. J, xxi. p» 203). The
following notice is summarised from that in the "Eosenlaui
Climbing Book" (p. 55), which is fn Miss Bell's
handwriting. Having reached the Unter Wellhorn in
3J hrs. from Eosenlaul, the party quitted that point
at 9.10 A.M., and went down its S. face to the foot of
" Lily's Peak " in about ± hr. They then went up to the
arete by a slope of blackish rock. The first gendarme
on the ridge is composed of smooth rook, and was
climbed by its r. hand side; its top being gained at
10.35 A.M. Beyond, the crest of the arete is followed
over three gendarmes, the rock being good and firm.
The party descended the S. side of the third gendarme,
and round a grass slope, which brought. them to a
point below an overhanging rock in the arSte, In
order to avoid this overhanging rock they mounted a
little to the 1., then turned slightly to the r., and by
a straight climb regained the arete just above the overhanging
bit (at 12.45 P.M.). This overhanging rock is
clearly seen from the Schimenbuhl Alp. The 'next bit

THE WETTERHORN GROUP »o?
of the arete la composed of extremely rotten rock, and
is tiresome to climb, as the Stones lie like slates on a
roof, and fall at every touch—it took nearly 1 hr.
The arete ends In a sharp gap, beyond vrtrieli the rocks
rise steeply to the final ridge- It is possible to mount
this last bit either to the r. or to the 1. The first party
climbed the two small chimneys to the r. The first
chimney is about 20 ft. high, has good holds, and leads
to a small platform on the N.W. face of the puak.
The second chimney is shorter, hut hard to attain from
the exposed platform—a nail (left here) was- driven
into the rock, by which the second man supported himself
while the first climbed from the other's shoulders
into the chimney. Thence the summit was gained in
20 minutes more, at 3.35 P.M.—6 hrs. 25 min. (inch
halts) from the Unter Wellhoru.
4. By the S.W. face.
Messrs. A. E. Field and R. W. Broadrick, with
Alphonse Simond and P. J. Ravenel, Aug. 9,
1903.
A. J. xxi. p. 558.
This party descended from the summit by the S.W.
face to the Schwarzwaldfirn (3 hrs.). The S. arete is
followed for a short distance, and then a long scree
couloir Is descended ou to the W. face of the peak.
Much rotten rock had to be traversed, and in order
to overcome the final rook precipice of 200 ft. an 80
ft. rope was looped round a projecting rock in order to
get down to the snow. (The rope was pulled down
after the party had descended). '
Scheidegg Wetterhorn, 3414 m., } 1,201 ft.
This peak was originally given the name of the Grindelwald
Dm, but that here adopted seems move

106 THE WETTER HORN GROUP
appropriate, as this summit immediately overhangs
the Gr. Scheidegg.
Herf G. Hasler, with Christian Jossi and Peter
Bernet, May 13, 190I.
A. J. xx. p. 466-7. S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 306.
Oe. A. Z. 1901, p. 215.
From the Gleoksteiu Club hut the party crossed to
the Huhnergutz glacier by way of the Krinne glacier
and the notch (Qrosse Krinne) marked 2955 m. on the
S. map. That glacier was traversed in a N.E. direction,
and then easy rocks led by a steep; snow ridge to
a smooth rock wall, at that time covered with snow
(probably this wall is impassable in summer, when
there is no snow). The last part of this snow traverse
was rather awkward. In this way the party reached
the upper of the two little snow-fields, whence very
smooth perpendicular, or even overhanging, rocks lead
to the gaps In the ridge above. This rock wall was
surmounted by means of a wooden pole, four yards long,
and secured to the rock by iron nails and ropes. In
this way the gap In the ridge was attained, and Grindelwald
came again into sight. Two very difficult pinnacles
(very rotten rocks) had to be passed, and then
easy snow-covered rocks led to the summit (13 hrs.
from the Club hut).
Wetterhorner.
This name first appears in Thomas Schopfs 1577
text and on his 1578 map ("Simler," p. 250*,
and map, S. A. C. J, xxxvi. p. 216). It is also
mentioned in 1606 by Rebmann (p. 489), in 1642
by Merian (p. 26), in 1706 by Hottinger (p. 72),
in 1716 (p. 223) and in 1723 (p. 289, 409) by
Scheuchzer, and in 1760 by Gruner (p. i. 44, 64,

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 107
69-71, illustrations at p. 65, 78, and 91, and
No. 40 on his map).
For the history of the group in general, see A. J. viii.
(Appendix), p. 75. xvii « P« "6-7. Studer's
Top. Mitt. p. 70, and Panorama von Bern, p.
228 sqq., Desor, 1. p. 610, ii, p. 123 sqq.,
Meyer, i. p. 18, Hugi, i. p. 137, 144, and
Studer, i. 4'5 HI"
i. Hash Jwtgfrau, 37°3 ">•» 12,149 ft-
This point is already named Jung/ran by Eebmann
in 1606 (p. 481, and see S. A. C. J.
xxviii. p. 242), and also by Wyss in 1817
(p. 646). It is the most prominent of
the three summits both from Grindelwald
and Hasle and, owing to its advanced position,
commands the finest view. Hence
(although slightly lower than the Mittelhorn)
it is often called Wetterhorn without
any qualification, and is the point of the
range which is most usually ascended. On
June 22,1896, the famous Grindelwald guide,
Christian Aimer, celebrated his golden wedding
by taking his wife, one daughter, and
two sons up this summit (A. J. xviii. p. 185,
Alpina, 1896, p. 110).
1. From tin S. or tke Wettersattel (usual
route).
The first ascent was made by two of Desor's
Melringen guides, Melchior Bannholzer
and J. Jaun, who, Aug. 31, 1SU,
mounted from Bosenlaui by the Rosenlaui
glacier to the Wetterkessel, then
crossed (at the point which has been
called the WeUhornsattel see Alpina,

Io8 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
1898, p. 6) the N.E. ridge of the
Mittelhorn, and by a short descent
and fresh ascent gained the Wetteraattelf
whence they climbed up the S.
face of the peak. On their return
they gained (probably by the head of
the great couloir which descends from
just E. of the point marked 3540 m.
on the S. map) the upper neve slopes
of the Ober Grindelwald glacier,
skirted the base of the Kosenhorn
and of the Berglistock, and then
crossed the Lauteraarsattel to the
Pavilion Dollfuss (Desor, ii. p. 164-5).
On July 80, 1845, the second ascent
was made by MM. Agassiz, Vogt, and
Bovet, with the two guides named
above and J. Wahren. This party
bivouacked on the Lauteraarsattel, and
thence gained the Wettersattel by the
,route taken on the descent in 1844,
returning the same way, but crossing
the rocks of the W, flank of the Mittelhorn,
probably those on the upper bit
of the 1. bank of the great snow couloir
(S. A. C< J. xxvii. p. 389-394).
In June, 1864, Mr. Eardley J. Blackwell,
with Chr. Bleuer and other guides,
ascended the Hasle Jungfrau from
Rosenlui by way of the glacier of that
name (Heathman, p. 132-3, and Wills,
p. 302).
The Wettersattel seems to have been
reached for the first time from the
Gieckstein or Grindelwald side on
July 7, 1845, when Herren Gottfried

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 109
Roth and Franz Fankhauser, with
Peter Bohren, ' (perhaps) Christian
Aimer, and a third guide, achieved
this feat, hut for some reason retreated
when Jess than 100 m. from
the top of the peak (Studer, i. p. 420,
Studer's Panorama >txm Bern, p. 233,
and S. A. 0. J. xxxiv. p. 203), thus
just failing to make the first ascent
from Grindelwald and the first ascent
by travellers. On' June 13, 1854,
Mr. Eardley J. Blackwell, with Chr.
Bleuer, Peter Bohren, Christian Aimer,
and another jguide, took the same
route and planted an iron flag in the
ice just below the final oorniche. Mr.
Blackwell writes, under date June 14,
in P. Bolireu's "FUhrerbuch," p. G.:
" in spite of a violent storm my brave
guides enabled me to plant my flag
on the extreme peak," which just
before he describes as "the highest
summit of the Wetterhorn, hitherto
unascended" (see also Chr. Bleuer's
" Fuhrerbuch," Heathman, p. 131-2,
Studer, i. p. 423, 8. A. C. J.
xxxtv. p. 205, and Wills, p. 302).
On Aug. 20 of the same year
P. Bohren, Chr. Aimer, and two
other Grindelwald guides are said
to have taken a French traveller,
M. Poutamlne, up. the Mittelhoru
(Studer, i. p. 423, S. A. C. J. xxxiv.
p. 205). In Peter Bohren'a " Fuhrerbuch."
(p. M.) M. Dupontavice de
Heussey writes, on Aug. 21, 1854,

HO THE WETTERHORN GROUP
that Bohren and Aimer had taken him
up "le Wetter horn." Studer, 1. p.
425, considers that the Bosenhorn
was the point reached, but moat probably
this party was identical with
that of M. Pontamine (the new edition
of Studer simply reproduces, as to this
ascent, the statements printed in the
old edition, i. p. 237 — Herr Diibl
agrees with the present writer that
there was but one party, and that it
ascended the Mittelhorn).
Finally, on Sept. 17, 1854, the first completely
successful ascent of the Hasle
Jungfrau from Grindelwald was effected
by Sir Alfred Wills, with
Augusta Balmat, Auguste Simond,
Ulrich Lauener, and Peter Bohren
(Wills, p. 270 sqq., and P. Bohren's
" Fuhrerbuch," p. R.), who were
joined on the rocks above the Wettersattel
by Chr. Aimer and his brotherin-law
Ulrich Kaufmann (Wills, p.
200, S. A. C. J. xxxiv. p. 205, and A.
J. xiv. p. 249, 321). This party found
Mr. Blackwell's flag (Wills, p. 302).
The Wettersattel may be gained from
several starting-points besides the
Lauteraarsattel.
a. From the Dossen Club hut in 4 hrs.
by the Dossenlticke and the Wellhornsattel
on the N.E. arete of
the Mittelhorn (S. A. C. J. xii.
p. 67, 73-80, D. & Oe. A. V.

THE WETTERHORN GROUP ill
Mitt, 1893, p, 34, Alpina, 1804,
p. 135, 1898, p. 6, 1903, p. 88,
A. J. x. p. 238, xiii. p. 649, xv.
p. 91-2, xvii. p. 460). This is the
route taken by parties coming
from Meiringen or Rosenlaui, and
lias superseded the old route by
the Rosenlaui glacier, now very
crevasaed.
b. From the Gauli Clvb hut in 5 hrs, or
so by way of the W. Wetterlimmi
and the Wellhornsattel (Girdlestone,
97-101, Ball, p. 121).
c. From the Gleckstein Club hut in SJi\
hrs. direct (this is the most
frequented way, and the one followed
by parties coming from
Grindelwald).
Aeby, p. 11 sqq. Sehtitz Wilson
78-90. -Wills, 2C7 sqq. Wundt
p. 221 sqq. Moore (new ed.), p.
356 sqq. Girdlestone, p. 78-88,
102-7. Roth, i. p. H8-175. Jtevue
Alpine, ii. p. 36-7, 133. Ann. du
C.A.F. i. p. 437 Sqq. A. J. vi.
p. 146,409, x. p. 386, 419, 494, xii.
p, 128,172, xiv. p. 248, xv. p. 202,
xvii. p. II6-7, xviii. p. 409, xix.
p. 91-2, 206. S. A. C. J. iv. p.
539, v. p. 424, 442, x. p. 573,
xv. p. B72, xxxiv. p. 205-6, 215.
Alpina, 1897, p. 51. D. & Oe.
A. V. Mitt. 1893, p. 34, 1897,
p. 33.
From the Gleckstein Clnb hut mount
N.E. by a path over stony grass

112 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
elopes to the S, edge of the Krinne
glacier, which is reached (1 hr.) not
for from the notch (Kleine Krinne)
marked 2778 ni. on the S. map.
Formerly It was the practice to
bear rather to the 1. up this
glacier in order to gain the foot
of » great red rock tower, and
then to bear r. over ledges oovered
with screes round the S. foot of
that tower in order to attain the
base of the great rock wall below
the Wettersattel. But as in recent
years the Ice has receded from the
rocks at the foot of the tower, it
is- now* usual to mount N.E. up
the ; Krinne glacier to the 1. hand
edge of the rocky spur which projects
into that glacier. In either
case the rocks on the r. bank of
the great couloir (which from
below appears to descend from
the lowest point of the Wettersattel)
are gained, and mounted
for some way. At the point
where this couloir is least steep
and flattens out, and just above
the spot at which it becomes a
mere furrow in the mountain-side,
and almost directly above a great
yellow-red rocky face on its r.
bank, this couloir must be crossed
(2-2J hrs. )by a few awkward steps.
Then mount the broken rocks
1 on its 1. bank, and by the couloir
'itself attain (£-1 hr.) the Wetter-

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 113
8
sattet, which is N. of the point
marked 3510 m. on the S. map.
Variations.
(1) From between the point
marked 3540 m. on the S.
map (S. of the Wettersattel)
and the foot of the
Mittelhorn on the E. a great
snowy couloir descends
"lightly S.W. to the Ober
Grindelwald glacier (and
not to the Krinne glacier) j
the gap at the head of this
couloir is Mr. Jacomb's
" Mitteljoch " of 1864 (A. J.
i. p. 433), while the upper
portion of the couloir seems
to have been climbed by
the parties which in 1844-5
ascended the Hasle Jungfrau.
When there is much
snow on the ordinary route
from the Gleckstein to the
Wettersattel, this couloir
affords a convenient way.
Mr. George's party, guided
hy Christian Aimer, took
this route on Aug. 25,1865,
and he thus describes it (A.
. J. ii. p. 211, and in his book,
P. 89-100): "about20min.
above the Gleckstein stone
bear to the r., reach the
glacier where it is nearly
level, and mount a steep

114 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
ice slope to the 1. From
the top of this slope bear 1.
(the Lauteraarsattel route
branching off to the r.) and
in 1 hr. reach the base of
a great funnel-shaped snowlined
couloir, which is then
mounted to its head" (3
hrs. from the Gleckstein
stone). Mr. George states
in his book (p. 101) that
in 1864 an English party
(apparently Mr. Jacomb's),
having been benighted, after
a passage of the Lauteraarsattel,
in the rocks on the
W. flank of the Mittelhorn,
ascended the Wetterhorn
next day by this couloir,
which is suitable for large,
parties (there being no falling
stones), but is not recommended
when there is
but little snow—the ordinary
rock route is then the
best.
(2) Mr. F. Morshead, with Christian
and Ulrlch Aimer,
June 27,1868 (A. J. iv. p.
154), turned out of the path
to the Euge (see "Club
Huts," "Gleckstein Hut,
route b," in the Introduction
to this work) soon after
it bends to the S., and
struck up to the E., keeping

THE WETTERHORN GROUP UJ
N. of the Beihorn (2178
in.), to the steep and slippery
grass slopes named
the "Stotzwang." They
gradually bore to the S.S.E.,
and by way of the KUine
Krinne (2776 m.) gained
the Krinne glacier, about
1 hr. above the Gleckstein
hut. The summit of the
Wetterhom was thiw
readied in 6 hrs. 5 win.
fast walking from Grindelwald.
This -way saves
2-3 hrs. on the ordinary
route, but is not recommended
for general adoption.
Having reached the Wettersattel from one
ov other of these starting-points, the
next stage In the ascent Is to mount
N. up a gradually steepening snow
•dope (sometimes ice), passing over or
to the r. of a patch of rocks. In this
way the final snow ooruiche is gained,
and must be cut through in order to
attain the culminating point of the
mountain (J-1 hr.). The inclination
of this snow slope, as measured by a
clinometer, never exceeds 40 in 100,
save the last bit, which is 60 in 100
(Atpina, 1894, p. 135).
2. By tht IV. face andthi N. W. arlte.
Messrs. J. lteumann, G. E. Foster, and

il6 THE WETTER HORN GROUP
G. F. Vernon, with Hans Baumann
and his young son, Peter Egger, and
Chr. Inabnit, Aug. 10, 1878.
A. J. ix. p. 112, xvii. p. 460, xx. p. 467.
Pioneers, p. 88. D. & Oe. A. V.
Milt. 1894, p. 188. This route had
been tried in 1875 by Mr. J. Walker
Hartley, with Peter Rubi, who had
gained the N.W. arete of the peak,
but were there beaten back by the then
state of the rocks (Pioneers, p. 158,
and P. Rubi's " FUhrerbuch," p.
>3S>-
From the Krinne glacier above the Gleckstein
Club hut cross to the Hiihnergutz
glacier at the notch (Orossc
Krinne) in the S.W. ridge of the
Hasle Jungfrau marked 2955 ru. on
the S. map. Then traverse the Htihnergutz
glacier to the N.W. foot of
the peak. A very great number of
steps must now be cut in the snow
or ice which covers the smooth and
highly inclined rocks of the W. face,
and so the N.W. arfte reached at
some high point (the first party struck
it only J hr. below the summit), and
then followed to the summit. The
first party took 7 hrs. 25 min. from
the Club hut to the top, all halts
included. The second party (Herr
J. E. Strauss, with Chr. Jossi and Ign.
Lorenz) took 9J hrs. from the Club
hut to the top, and had to cut over
2200 steps.

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 117
"This ascent is probably only possible
•when there is a great deal of snow in
good order, as the rocks, when not
covered, are very brittle and generally
glazed with ice, and very dangerous
from falling stones after the sun hai
reached the face " (A. J. ix. p. 112).
3. By the S. W. arlte and the W. face.
Messrs. J. II. Wicks, E. II. F. Bradby,
and C. Wilson, with Ulrich Aimer
and H. Key, July 5, 1902.
A. J. xxi. p. 269, 507-9. S. A. C. J.
xxxviii. p. 355. AIpina> 1902, p.
Il6.
" The intention was to try to make a route
up the S.W. arSte, but, being forced
off it, they traversed the W, face of
the mountain above the Huhnergutz
glacier to a point almost directly
under the summit, whence they cut
straight up the very steep slope, and
rejoined the S.W. arete at a small gap
300 or 400 ft. below the top. The
traverse occupied 2 hrs., and the
ascent thence to the summit took
3 hrs. more. The route has but little
to recommend it. The rocks were too
much ice-covered to give them a fair
trial. Those which were tried were
found to be extremely rotten and of
a less interesting character than had
been anticipated."
ii. Miltclhorn, 3708 m., 12,166 ft.
So named in 1843 ty Desor (i. p. 610) by reason
of its central position.

II8 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
I. From the IV.
Mr. Speer, with J. Jaun, Kaspar Abplanalp,
and another guide, July 8, 1845
(A. J. xvi. p. 402, xvii. p. 105 sqq. j
see too the letter written by Mr. Speer
in 1856 to the " Daily News," No. of
Aug. 7, and Wills, 2nd edition, p. 264,
note).
Tlio first party started from Agassiz's hut
on the Unteraar glacier and crossed
the Lauttiraarsattel. They then most
probably (but Mr. Speer's narrative is
not very clear) gained the Wettersattel
by the route taken in 1844 by
Jaun when descending from the Hasle
JungfTau, and to be again taken by
him, a few days after Mr. Speer's
ascent, when leading Agassiz's party
up the same peak. From the Wettersattel
they then climbed the Mittelhom
by its W. slope, whence the
aspect of the peak agrees well with
Mr. Speer's description as "a huge
pyramid of the purest ice and snow"
(p. 110). If this theory of the Toute
taken be correct, Mr. Speer's remark
that "the S.W. aspect of tha peak
was deemed the most practicable"
would apply to the impression made
on him while mounting from the Ober
Grindelwaldfirn, while the "4 hours'
step-cutting " would be reckoned from
that snow-field to the summit of the
peak.
Probably this route was that taken on

THE WETTER HORN GROUP 119
Aug. 20,1854, by M. Dupontavice tie
Heussey, with P. Bohren and Chr.
Aimer (aee the history of the Hasle
Jungfrau, Route 1).
But the first recorded party which certainly
took this route was that of
Herr K. von Fellenberg, with Chr.
Miohe), Peter Egger, and Peter Bernet,
July 27, 1868 (8. A. C. J. vi. p. 431).
See also S. A. C. J. xxxiv. p. 215, xxxvii.
p. 308, 367, A. J. vl. p. 146, xix.
p, 206,
From the Wettersattel mount the snowy
"W. face, and then t>y a rock and snow
ridge to the summit (J lir.).
2. from the E.
Mr. flpeer's party seems to have descended
this way by means of a glissade
(sitting) down excessively steep snow
slopes. «"We commenced our descent
on. the opposite side of the peak to
that by which we had ascended, in
order to gain the plains of snow surmounting
the great glacier of Rosenlaui
• (A. J. xvii. p. H2). On gaining
this plateau they crossed it to tha
foot of the Dossenhom, and descended
by the Rosenlaut glacier to Rosenlaui,
taking 7 hrs. 40 min. from the top to
Rosenlaui.
3. Front the AT.E,
Mr. D. W. Freshfield, Miss Ritchie, and
Miss Elinor Ritchie, with Francois
DeVouassoud and a Rosenlaui man,
August 1879.

120 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
A. J. ix. p. 487-8, and private information.
"The party, without difficulty, from the
Wetterkessel gained the crest of the
N.E. arete, above the pyramidal crag
in which ita lower end terminates.
The crest of the ridge was broken,
while the loose stones and spiky rocks
•were troublesome for ladies unused to
climbing, but there is no real difficulty.
- The final climb (about 20 min.) from
the last rocks is by a narrow and
pretty snow ridge, in which steps
must be cut."
4. From the S.W.
Messrs. II. and C. Speyer, with Chr. Jossi
and R. Kaufmann, Aug. 24, 1887.
D. & Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1887, p. 233.
S. A. C. J. xxiii. p. 480.
Rocks were climbed straight to the top.
5. From the S.E.
An attempt was made by Herr E. von
Fellenberg's party in 1866 (see S above)
to descend along this ridge to the Mitteljoch,
but the great gendarme (marked
3616 m. on the S. map) forced them
to traverse by ice slopes and steep
gullies round its S.W. flank, in order
to gain the rock ridge descending S.
from it towards the point marked
3391 m. on the S. map, along the W.
side of whioh they gained at last (3
hrs. from the top) the snowy hollow
at the foot of the Mittelhom and the
Rosenhorn (S. A. C. J. v. p. 432-4).

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 121
According to Studer, i. p. 426, Herren Max
and Franz Wirth and Hoffmann,
with Johannes .and Andreas von
Weissenfluh, Aug. 8, 1867, climbed
the Mittelhorn from the Mitte^och.
It is not known whether they rounded
or traversed the great gendarme,
marked 3616 m. on the S. map, but
this seems to be the first recorded
ascent by this route.
Mr. Sydney Spencer, with Chr. Jossi and
Ulrich Kauftnann, July 22, 1894,
climbed the S.E. arete of the Mittelhorn
from near the Mitte^joch, skirting
round the S.W. flank of the great
gendarme, and taking 2 hrs. 50 min.
(halts included) from the top of the
Kosenhorn to that of the Mittelhorn.
(Information courteously supplied by
Mr. Spencer).
MM. E. Panchaud and J. Martin, Aug. 18,
1901 (8. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 308), from
the top of the Mittelhorn went down
* *? e S-E " ar0te to the ^P J ust N - W -
of the great gendarme (3616 m.), descended
for about 130 ft. down the
». face of the mountain, and then
traversed nearly at a level in an E.
direction, by very rotten and difficult
rocks, to the ridge (gaiued at a point S.
of the great gendarme) of the buttress
that runs S. from the great gendarme
to the point marked 3391 m. on the S.
map. They went down on the E. side
of this buttress to the snowy hollow
between the Kosenhorn and the Mittel-

122 • THE WETTERHORN CROUP
horn, and then remounted to the N. W.
gap of the double gap marked 8600 m.
TJie rock tower between these two
gaps wax turned on its N. side, and so
the true Mitteljooh gained (2 hrs. 40
min. from the top of the Mittelhorn).
The great gendarme (3816 m.) can, however,
be traversed. This was done
twice (? by whom) before Herren C.
Geldner and C. Herman achieved the
feat, Aug. 24,1902 (S. A. C. J. xxxviii.
p. 855-6). These climbers describe
the difficulties of the climb up the
S.E. flank of the gendarme as considerable,
but as of very short duration.
They took by this route along the
ridge 8} hrs. from the top of the
Kosenhorn to the top of the Mittelhorn.
iii. Rosenhorn, 3691 m., 12,110 ft.
So named in 1843 by Desor (Desor, i. p. 610).
Studer (Panorama von Hern, p. 231) supposes
that this name was given because the
summit in question dominates the Rosenlaui
glacier more than its two companions.
Desor (ii. p. 136) says that the name Hasle
Jungfrau is sometimes in Hasle given to
this summit, but there seems to be some
confusion here.
A Panorama from the Rosenhorn is given in the
"Beilagen" to S. A. C. J. xxxl.
1. From the S.E.
MM. Desor, Dupasquier, Stengel, and
, Dollfuss, with J. Wahren, M.
Bannholzer, J. Jaun, and three
other guides, Aug. .28, 1844.

THE WETTERHORN CROUP 123
The first party from the Gaull glacier
crossed the W. Wetoriimnii ^ j n a
Rosenegg, and made the ascent
thence; they returned by way of
the Dossenliicke and the Urbachsattel
(Desor, ii. p. 136-8,148-152).
A. J. i. p. 197, x. p. 493, xviii. p. 499.
S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 109, xxxiv. p.
205. Alpina, 1895, p. 156, 1896,
p. 109,1897, p. 96. Oe. A. Z. 1894,
p. 278.
From the Kosenegg follow the easy
snow arOte to the summit (1 hr.).
2. From the S. IV, or IV,
S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 308, xxxviii. p.
391. Alfii„at 1894, p. 104. A. J.
xviii. p. 44. 0e. A. Z. 1894,
p. 278.
On Sept. 25,1884, the Rev. W. A. B.
Coolidge, with Ulrich and Christian
Aimer, having, by the old route to
the Lauteraarsattel, reached a point
near the Grindelwald side of the
Mitte^och, climbed thence up the
snowy S.\V". face direct to the top.
On June 6, 1894, Mr Coolidge,
with Christian and Peter Aimer and
" Christian in.," desired to repeat
the above route, but, by reason of
the vast amount of fresh snow,
was forced on to the higher bit of
the N.W. ariite, by which the ascent
was completed (2 hrs., in deep
snow from the foot of the peak).

124 THE WETTER HORN GROUP
3. From the N. W.
Mr. Sydney Spencer, with Chr. Jossi
and Ulrich Kaufmann, July 22,
1894.
S. A- C. J. xxxvii. p. 308, xxxviii. p.
355-6, and private information.
From the Mitte^joch follow the long
and rotten rook ridge to the top
(2hrs.).
4. ByiheN.E. arlte.
Herren Hans Brun, Liniger, and Schillig,
Sept. 19, 1895.
S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. IOI, 107-9. Alpina,
1895, p. 156.
The first party, having, In 3 hrs. from
the Dossensattel, reached the great
bergschrund at the E. foot of this
arete, crossed it with difficulty,
and then cut steps up steep ice
and snow slopes till they gained
some easy rooks (not marked on the
S. map, but well seeu on the illustration
In S. A. 0. J. xxxi. p. 112),
by which they gained the N.E.
arfcte. This arete was then followed
(ice and good rocks) to the
summit, gained in 3J hrs. from
the bergschrund.
Herren Paul and Hans Konig, Egon von
Steiger, and Paul Baumgartner,
July 16, 1900 (private information,
and S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 61),
by steep snow slopes, reached the
N.E. ridge at a much lower point

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 125
(near the snowy point where it
makes a slight bend), and thence
followed it throughout to the summit
(21 hrs., or 5 hrs. 55 nrin.,
incl. halts, from the Possen Club
hut).
The three summits of the Wetterhorn have occasionally
been climbed in one day (see Alpina, 1902, p. 112,
for a brief notice of this feat, performed in 10J hrs.
from the Gleckstein Club hut and back). The first
climber to achieve this feat was Mr. Sydney Spencer,
•with Chr. Jossi and Ulricb. Kaufmann, July 22,1894.
This party went from the Gleckstein Club hut to the
Mitteljoch, and thence by the N.W. arete, followed
throughout, gained the Rosenhorn (8 hrs. J20 min., incl.
halts, from the Club hut). Descending by the S.E.
arete to the Bosenegg, the party then crossed back
(S.W. slope) below the Kosenhorn and climbed the
rocks of the S.E. arete of the Mittelhorn (skirting round
the S.W. flank of the great gendarme), and then the
snowy ridge to the Mittelhorn (2 hrs. 50 min., Incl.
halts, from the Rosenhorn). In 1J hr. more, by way of
the Wettersattel, the Ilasle Jungfrau was attained, and
the return thence made to the Gleckstein Club hut.
(Information courteously supplied by Mr, Spencer).
In 1901 MM. E. Panchaud and J. Martin, having
climbed the Hasle Jungfrau by the usual route from,
the Gleckstein Club hut, ascended the Mittelhorn from
the Wettersattel (1 hr. 35 min. from the Hasle Jungfrau),
descended by a circuitous route (see Rte. 5
of the Mittelhorn) to the Mitteljoch in 2 hrs. 40 min.,
and reached the Rosenhorn (partly by the N.W. arete
and partly by the S.W. face) in 2 hrs. 10 min. more,
descending to the Rosenegg and thence to the Dossen
Club hut (S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 808).

126 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
In 1902 Herren C. Geldner and C. Herman reached
the Bosenhorn in 8J hrs. from the Dossen Club hut by
way of the Bosenegg, went on (always along the ridge)
to the Mittelhom in 8J hrs. more, and to the Hasle
Jungfrau in 1 hr. more, Bleeping at the Oleckstein Club
hut (S. A. C. J. xxxviii. p. 355-6).
It has seemed more convenient to describe the three
peaks of the Wetterhom together. A few words may
suffice for the passes between and near them, which
have been mentioned en passant above.
WETTERSATTEL.
This is the snowy opening between the Hasle
Jungfrau (N.) and the point marked 8540 m. (S.).
Between the latter point and the Mittelhorn is a gap
at the head of the great oouloir (see Bte. 1, Variation
(1), of the Hasle Jungfrau) which was called
Mittejjocli in 1864 by Mr. Jaoomb (A. J. i. p. 433).
WELLHORNSATTKL.
This name is given (Alpina, 1898, p. 6) to the point
on the N.E. ridge of the Mittelhorn, situated between
those marked 8377 m. (S. W.) and 3167 m. (N.K) on the
S. map, which parties coming from the Dossen or Gauli
Club huts cross when bound for the ascent of the Hasle
Jungfrau, or of the Mittelhorn from the Wettorsattel.
MITTELJOCH.
This pass is the lowest depression (the S.E. of two
gaps) between the Mittelhorn (N.W.) and the Bosenhorn
(S.E.), and was first crossed, Aug. 24, 1857, by
Mr. A. P. Whately, with Wiuterberger and J. Jaun,
on bis way from Bosenlaul to the LauteraarBattel.
A. J. xvii. p. 115, n., and Ball, p. 121; in A. J, 1.

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 127
P. 433, the name Mitteljoch Is wrongly given to the
gap between the Mittelhorn and the point to its W.
marked 3540 m. on the S. map—see above under Hanle
Jungfrau, Rte. 1, Variation (1). See also S. A. C. J.
v. p. 432. This pass connects the head of the Rosenlaul
glacier with the Ober Grindelwald glacier, and is a
snowy depression with rocks—easy snow on'both sides.
ROSENBGG, c. 3500 m.( 10,483 ft. (the name is
rightly placed on the S. map).
This is a snowy opening (very easy) between the
point marked 8607 m. on the S.E. ridge of the Rosenhorn
and the point (probably ascended, Aug. 4, 1863,
by Mr. Jacomb's party when climbing the Rosenhorn
from the Bergiyoeh, A. J. 1. p. 397, and certainly
climbed, Sept. 19,1895, by Herren H. Brun, Liniger, and
Schillig, S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 109), marked 3461 m. on
the S. map. It leads from the very head of the Rosenlaui
glacier to the Ober Grindelwald glacier, was first
visited by M. Desor's party, Aug. 28, 1844, on oocasiou
of the first ascent of the Rosenhorn (Desor, ii. p. 137),
and was first clearly distinguished from the Berslyoch
by HerrE. von Fellenberg (S. A. C. J. v. p. 434, and
Studer, i. p. 434, n.). See A. J, ii. p. 268, xii. p. 480,
xviii. p 499, S. A. C. J. xx. p. 156, Alpha, 1898,
p. 8, and Oe. A. Z. 1894, p. 278.
BERGUJOCH, C. 3400 m., 11,155 ft- (*e name is
rightly placed on the S. map).
This pass lies between the point marked 3441 m. (N.)
and the .Berglistook (S.). It has rocks (with a steep
gully) on its W.. side, but snow on its B. side, and
connects the very head of the Gauli glacier with the
Joflo ? ^in,lelwal,1 e^ 61 -- « was first crossed, Aug. 4,
1883, by Mr. F. W. Jacomb, with Chr. Michel and J.
Zwalt (A. J. 1. p. 197, Ball, 123-4; Ree also S. A. C. J.

128 THE IVETTERHORN GROUP
v. p. 435). It was originally named "Ober Grindelwaldjoch,"
but Herr E. von Fellenberg proposed the
more appropriate name of Berglijooh (S. A. C. J. v.
p. 434). Mr. Jacomb's party took about 5 hrs. from
the Urnen Alp to the pass, and 3 hrs. 25 rain, thence
to the Gleckstein stone.
The note in Stader, i. p. 433, is certainly wrong in
trying to identify Mr. Jacomb's pass with the W.
Wetterlimmi. If it were so, Mr. Jacomb must from
the Gaull glacier have crossed the W. Wetterlimmi to
the uppermost portion of the Eosenlaui glacier in order
to reach the Bosenegg, whence ha ascended the Rosenhorn.
But in 1864, when making his " Mitteljoch "
(just E. of the Wettersattel), Mr. Jacomb remarks
(A. J. i. p. 433) that in descending thence by the
Eosenlaui glacier he "ascertained that the supposed
connection between the Eosenlaui and Qauli glaciers
really exists, he having had last year an opportunity of
visiting the Oauli side, but having then been prevented
by mist from examining the Eosenlaui side," i.e. he
had not before been on the Eosenlaui side of the W,
Wetterlimmi.
Berglistock, 3657 m., 11,999 frit
is named on the Panorama from the Bathihorn,
drawn about 1785 by G. S. Studer (S. A. C. J. xxviii.
p. 255), and also on the maps of Wyss and Hugi.
Studer (Panorama von 1 Bern, p. 228) states that it is
called Ilinter Schneehorn in Ober Hasle, and thinks
that perhaps the name of Berglistock is derived from
the sheep pasture of Jaggelisbergli, on the W. flank of
the Haiigendgletscherhom; in his Top. Mitt. p. 81, he
gives the name Hinter Schneehorn, which appears,
together with that of Berglistock, on his panorama from
the Jungfrau.
See In general Studer, 1. p. 451 sqq.

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 129
1. From the IV.
Herr Chr. Aeby, with P. Egger and P. InSbnit,
Sept. 26, 1864.
Aeby, p. 99 sqq. S. A. C. J. xx. p. 157, xxi.
p. 53-60. A. J. xviii. p. 499-500.
From the Gleckstein Club hut mount by the Ober
Grindelwald glacier to the foot of the W. wall of the
peak (3 hrs.). Here a choice may be made between
two routes, either of which takea 2-3 hrs., according to
the state of the rocks and enow. One leads up a great
couloir (S. of the figures 3657 on the S. map) and the
rocks near it, aud attains a gap in the S. ridge a few
minutes from the top. The other goes up the snow
slope which mounts highest (to the N. of the figures
8657), and then traverses easy rocks to the r. in order
to gain a rock ridge, up which the way lies direct to
the highest point.
3. From the S. IK
Sir Frederick rollock, with Peter Rubt and Petet
Baumann, Aug. 26, 1868.
A. J. iv. p. 156.
From the Lauteraarsattel mount rocks (much broken,
affording good hold everywhere, and presenting no
serious difficulty) to the summit (2 hrs.).
Mr. Sydney Spencer, with Chr. Josai and Ulrich Kaufnumn,
July 5,1894, bore to the r. hand at the head of
the Lauteraar glacier (6 hrs., inch halts, from Pavilion
Dollfuss), and by a couloir gained the ridge to the
extreme r. of the opening of the pass and at the very
foot of the peak, the summit of which was gained in
2J hrs. from the foot of the couloir. This variation
saves time for a party desiring to take the Berglistoek
on the way over the Lauteraarsattel (Private
information).
9

130 THE IVETTERHORN GROUP
3. By the N. arlte.
Mr. W. W. Graham, with Peter Baumann, sr. and
jr., Sept. 30, 1886.
Gleckstein Club Hu£ Travellers' Book (under date
Aug. 29, 1893). S. A. C. J. xx. p. 157. A.
J. xxL p. 271. Trivate information.
From the Berglijooh mount the broken and rotten
rocks and very sharp snowy knife-edges of the long N,
arete to the summit (3 hrs.).
4. By the E. face.
Ilerr G. Hasler, with Chr. Jossi and U. Fuhrer,
Sept. 28, 1962.
A. J. xxi. p, 271.
From the Gauli Club hut mount the Gauli glacier
(the upper portion is much crevassed) to the foot of the
E. wall of the mountain. Then by steepish snow and
easy though loose rocks ascend straight up to the crest
of the S. arete, which is struck between the point marked
3022 m. and the top, and just below the top of the
couloir mounted on Kte. 1. A few min. more suffice to
reach the summit (6 hrs. from the Gauli Club hut).
Ankenballi, 3605 m., 11,828 ft.
The name " Ankenballi" is derived from the rounded
appearance of this peak, which is thought by the shepherds
to resemble a ball of butter. Wyss in his 1817
text

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 131
M. Louis Kurz, with II. Fuhrer and Kaspar
Leuthold, Aug. 12, 1887.
S. A. C. J. xxiii. p. 481, xxxvii. p. 60.
The first party, Btarting from the Urnen Alp huts (not
far from the present Gauli Club hut), mounted at first
by the left bank of the Gauli glacier, and then by that
glacier itself. Easy snow-fields led them to the S.E.
ridge of the peak (a little to the r. of the Klein Ankenballi,
3585 m.), which was followed to the top
Ulhrs.).
On the descent the party went down by the easy
rocks of the S. slope to the level of the Lauteraar
glacier, which was reached at the point marked 2803 m.
(50 miu.).
Klein Ankenballi, 3385 m., 11,762 ft.
This peak is unnamed either on the.S, map or .by its
conquerors, so the above appellation is suggested.
MM. Alph. Vaucher, Ch. da la Harpe, II. and V.
Brion, E. Bovon, J. Goery, and T. Lane, Aug.
8,1893.
Echo dea Alpes, 1893, p. 382, 1894, p. 114-6.
S. A. C. J. xxix. p. 267. Private information.
It is most easily reached iu 10 min. from the gap
between it and the Ankenballi (3605 m.)—S. A. C, J.
xxiii. p. 481.
The first party, mistaking this summit as seen from
the Lauteraar glacier for the Ewigschneehorn, mounted
from that glacier between the points marked 2777 m.
and 2723 m. Keeping to the r., they attained by debris
and steep rocks the corner (above the point marked
2723 m.) of the small hanging glacier, and then mounted
due N. to the watershed. Descending some 150 ft. or
so on the other slope- (as the watershed ridge seemed
to be impracticable), they gained the .summit without

132 THE WETTERHORN GROUP
difficulty by easy snow slopes (6 hrs., inol. halts, from
Pavilion Dollfuss). On the descent they glissaded down
the small glacier, and, bearing to the left, reached the
Lauteraar glacier by a small snowy couloir,
Wetterlimmi.
The ridge dividing the Gauli and Eosenlaui glaciers
has been crossed at two spots, which are separated by
the rocky points marked 3344 m. and 3254 m. on the
S. map, and locally named Jagglisberg (Desor, ii. p. 135,
176-7, and map ; but Studer's Panorama von liem, p.
228, attributes this name to a sheep pasture on the slope
of the Hangendgletscherhorn, above the Gauli glacier).
The S. map gives the name of Wetterlimmi to the E.
pass only, but it may with even better justioe be applied
also to the far easier W. pass (Studer, i. p. 434 n.).
1. W. Wetterlimmi, c. 3300 m., 10,827 ft-
This Is a wide snowy depression, just W. of the point
marked 3344 m. It was noticed in 1795 by Stettler
(S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 356), and was first crossed by
travellers by Desor's party, Aug. 28,1844, on their way
up the Rosenhom (Desor, ii. p. 136-7). It affords the
easiest, though most round-about, way from the Gauli
Club hut to the Dossen Club hut, and is necessarily
crossed by any party bound from the Gauli Club hut
to the Bosenegg, or to any of the three peaks of the
Wetterhorn (Glrdlestone, p. 101, A. J. ii. p. 268, iv.
p. 258, xviii. p. 499, S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 83-4, xxxi. p. 110,
xxxvii. p. 367, Hugi, i. p. 136).
The pass is reached by the easiest possible snow on
both sides.
2. E. Wetterlimmi, 3183 m., 10,440 ft.
Between the point marked 3254 m. and the Renfenhorn,
Jrom the Gauli Club hut to the Dossen Club hut.
It was originally called lUnfenjoch, a name which is

THE WETTERHORN GROUP 133 .
tetter suited to the pass between the Kenfenhorn and
the Dossenhorn.
Hon. Roden Noel, with A. Jaun and J. Tannler,
Sept. 22, 1867.
A. J. iv. p. 255, 838. Ball, p. 125. S. A. C. J. xii.
p. 76, xxii. p. 78, 83-4. Oe. A. Z. 1903, p. 68.
From the Dossen Club hut cross the Dossensattel to
the upper portion of the Rosenlaul glacier. Then
mount the snow slopes of the Wetterkessel to the pass.
Very steep> rocks lead down on the other side, and their
base is defended by ft large bergschrund. The first
party took about 4 hrs. from the pass to the Union Alp
huts, near the Gauli Club hut.

SECTION VII
The Huhnerstock Group
FROM THE EWIGSCHNEEHORN TO THE
JUCHLISTOCK
Ewigschneehorn, 3331 m., 10,929 ft.
This peak is mentioned in 1760 by Gruner (i. p. 47,
56, 62, and No. 32 on his map) under the name of
Oaulihorn. In 1795 Stettler (S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 357)
gives the name of "Ewiges Schneehorn" as the local
appellation, adding that elsewhere this summit is called
the Itinter Wetterhorn. In 1817 Wyss gives only the
name of Ewigschneehorn in his text (p. 717), but on his
1816 map he mentions also the alternative name of
Gaulihorn. HugPs map (1830) has Gaulihorn, but from
Desor onwards the ordinary name is Ewigschneehorn.
Herr G. Stvwler calls it Schneehorn on his 1838 Panorama
from the Siedelhorn (annexed to his 1844 book),
but iu his 1844 text (Top. MM. p. 31) he speaks of the
Vorder Schneehorn, a name which probably applies to
our peak. Later on he tells us (S. A. C. J. v. p. 655,
660) that the more correct name is " Schneewiges Horn,"
or simply " Schneehorn."
It has been stated (S. A. C. J. xxxvi. p. 315, and

THE li'UHNERSTOCJC GROUP 135
Hugi, ii. p. 79) that this summit was ascended byHerren
G. Studer and F. J. Hugi, Aug. 16, 1831; but according
to the unpublished full account of this expedition by
Herr G. Studer, it is clear that they only crossed the
Gauli Pass (see too Studer, I. p. 608, and Graf, p. 649).
The first known ascent was made in 1841 by M. E.
Desor, with J. Leuthold (Desor, i. p. 331), wfco was
followed a few days later by M. Agassiz, Prof. Forbes,
and the Rev. J. M. Heath (Desor, I. p. 335, and ForbeB,
new ed., p. 429).
Desor, i. p. 665. Schlagintweit, p. 20. Aeby, p. 38,
42-3. S. A. C. J. i. p. 560, xiv. p. 259, xvii. p. 289,
xxii. p. 107, xxiii. p. 490. Alplna, 1896, p. 109, 1900,
p. 75, 81, 1902, p. 173. D. & Oe. A, V. Mitt. 1893,
p. 34.
From the true Gauli Pass (3127 tn.) U is about an
hour to the top, it being neoessary to descend slightly
to the N.E. in order to turn (on the Gauli side) the knoll
marked 3213 ni. on the S. map. From the higher
notch (3206 m.) the ascent takes a short i hr.
If coming from the Gauli Club hut, make for the
GrUnbergli spur, and follow it (easy rocks and snowfields)
to the notch 3208 m., and so up to the top (3J-4
hrs. from the Club hut). The same notch is reached on
the Lauteraar side direct from the glacier by easy grass
and debris (4-5 hrs. to the (|op of the peak from Pavilion
Dollfuss).
Gauli Pass, 3206 m., 10,519 ft., and 3127 m.,
10,260 ft.
fast S.E. of the Ewigschneehom, from the Gauli
Club hut to Pavilion Dollfuss.
There are (wo notches, separated by the knoll marked
3213 m. on the S. map. The higher (3206 m.) Is that
generallyattaiuedbya party bound from Pavilion Dollfuss
direct to the top of the Ewigschneehom, but the lower

136 THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
(3127 m.) is the true pass for those simply going from
the Gauli glacier to the Lauteraar glacier, and bears the
singular local name of " Happisliimmelti" (Graf, p.
649, and Studer, i. p. 508 ; Studer's MS. account of his
passage says that this name comes from a hunter,
Happis, who often passed here). No recent map (the
term AarengrlUli found on those of Wyss and Hugl
probably refers to the notch 3127 m.) seems to give any
name to either depression, though they are commonly
known under the joint name of Gauli Pass. Herr G.
Studer calls it "Aarengrat" (S. A. C. J. v. p. 6G5, and
xxvi. p. 315, and on his Panorama from the Miihrenliorn).
The name "Gauli" is mentioned in 1751 by
Altmann (p. 67) as that of a " Berg" (probably a mountain
pasture) in Hasle which had been little by little
cbvered by the advancing glacier. In 1760 Gruner
(i. p. 62) mentions the "Gauli glacier." In 1802
Weiss' Atlas gives this name and also that of Urboch
glacier, the latter name alone appearing on Meyer's 1813
map.
The first recorded passage by a traveller is that
effected, on Aug. 10, 1795, by Herren B. Stettler, of
Zoflngen, and von Graffenried, with a chamois hunter
(3. A. C, J. xxxi. p. 855-361, and Wyss, p. 711, note).
Herr Arnold Brltgger (the Prefect of Oberhasle) crossed
it Aug. 5, 1802 (Wyss, p. 719, note). Yet in 1812 Meyer
(i. p. 8) mentions only a report that the pass had before
that date been traversed by several valiant men: on his
map he dots in the route on the Gauli glacier side. It
was traversed by Herren G. Studer and F. J. Hugi,
with Arnold Leuthold and J. Wahren, Aug. 16, 1831
(Studer, 1. p. 608, Hugi, ii. p. 79, Graf, p. 649,
S. A. C. J. iv. p. 236, Studer's Top. Mitt. p. 27, and
B. & G. ii. p. 62). Probably all these parties crossed
the higher notch j that of 1831 certainly did.
Desor, i. p. 336. Forbes (new ed.), p. 429. Studer's

THE HUHNERSTOCh"GROUP 137
Panorama, von Jiern, p. 48, and Top. Milt. p. 158.
Schlagintweit, p. 20. Aeby, p. '40-1, 44. S. A. C. J.
xxii. p. 108, 162. Alpina, 1900, p. 75, 81-2. D. &
Oe. A. V. Mitt. 1893, p. 84. Tyndall's Hours of Exercise
in the Alps, p. 66-74. Ball, p. 124.
From the Gauli Club hut follow a made and wellmarked
path over the crest of the Kammliegg to the
level of the Gauli glacier, which ia entered upon near
the spot marked 2324 m. on the S. map (1J hr.).
Mount it in & S.W. direction, the snow slopes becoming
steeper and the orevasses more numerous till the upper
portion of the Grttnbergli glacier is reached. (It Is also
possible to make for and then to follow the GrUnbergli
spur direct to the higher, 8206 m., of the two notches).
It takes from 8 to 4 hrs. to go from the Gauli Club hut
to the lower notch (3127 m.) or true pass.
The desceut from the pass lies over stones and debris
in a S.W. direction (the track is dotted in on the S.
map), and is rejoined by the route from the higher
notch (also dotted in on the S. map) on the Wildlager
pastures, where was formerly a poor stone hut, where at
a pinch the night may be passed.
A steep rough gully leads hence in a S. direction to
the level of the Lauteraar glacier, which is gained a
little to the N.W. of the point marked 2558 m. on the
S. map (1-14 hr.). It takes about 2 hrs. more to attain
the Pavilion Dollfuss.
Lauteraar Trifthorner, 3229 m., 10,594 ft., and
3226 m., 10,584 ft.
The ridge (steep and rocky on the 8. slope, which
" e }\ 8een °n Signor V. Bella's photograph, No.
241, taken from the Finsteraarhorn) stretching from
the Ewigschneehorn to the Huhnerstook bears very
different names in various books or maps. In 1760
Gruner (i. p. 55, 58, illustration opp. p. 44, and No. 80

138 THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
on map) calls it Triftlilwrn or Triffllhorn, while Studer's
Top. Mitt. p. 81, gives Ilinter-Trifthlirner, this name on
the S. map being reserved for the E. portion of this
long ridge. Weiss' Atlas has the name " Kiihtrift M.,"
the name Kiihtrift being attributed on the S. map to the
stony slopes N. of Pavilion Dollfuss. Wyss' map has
the name of "Vorder" and "Hinter Gweid" (this
word, like Trift, means a pasture), and Ilugi's larger
map that of AarengriUli (an obvious allusion to the
Gauli Pass) as well as Mieselen; while Desor's two maps
(and text, i. p. 335, and il. p. 179) give Mieselen only,
a name attributed on the S. map to the slopes S. of the
Hubelhorn, this last named summit being the highest
of the Trifthorner, as well as of the entire ridge between
the Ewigsehneehorn and the Hiihnerstook. While
retaining in this work the name Triftho'rner for the W.
bit of this ridge, it has been thought best to prefix the
word " Lauteraar " (for the name Trifthorner seems to
have some connection with this slope of the range rather
than with that towards the Gauli glacier), in order to
distinguish these two summits from the numerous
Trifthorner found elsewhere.
The lower (S.E.) summit was visited by Herren
Charles Montandon, Karl Knecht, and L. Furer, July 8,
1895 (S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 117, and Studer, i. p. 509,
note), who found there a cairn of unknown origin. The
above party mounted in 5i hrs. from the Gauli Club
hut, following the course of the Grttnbergli glacier and
then bearing S. to the rocky N.E. spur (ending at the
spot marked 3000 m. on the S. map). This was
mounted for a short distance, and then the glacier to its
S. entered upon, and so by a steep snow slope a notch
reached to the N.W. of the peak, whioh was thence
attained in a few minutes more by a climb up rocks.
From the summit they went down direct by a couloir
in the rocks, and then by troublesome rock precipices, to

THE HUBNERSTOCK GROUP 139
the Lauteraar glacier, in 4J lira., finding the lower part
of the route intricate and teasing {ibid. p. 118).
The higlier summit (3229 m.) does not seem to have
yet been visited by a traveller.
Pass, 3200 m., 10,499 ft.
This is a wide depression, which is easily gained by
snow on the Gauli side, but is defended by a steep rook
wall on the opposite slope. A passage does not appear
to have yet been effected at this point.
HubelhBrner, 3255 >"•> 10,680 ft., and 3256 m.,
10,683 ft.
The name is derived from the rocky and grass-grown
spur at its N. foot.
The lower (W.) summit seems to be as yet untouched
by the foot of man, though it might be easily gained
from the depression marked 3200 m. on its W.
The higher (E.) summit was ascended by FraU P.
Montandon, Herren Charles and Paul Montandon, Aug.
18,1893 (S. A. C. J. xxix. p. 124-5, 131-2).
Alpina, 1902, p. 172-3. A. J. xxi. p. 270.
From the Gauli Club hut gain the Gauli glacier by the
Gauli Pass route (1 \ hr.). Then bear S. over that glacier
to the foot of the "Im Hubel" spur, which is followed
(with slight deviations on one slope or the other) to the
rocky N.E. arete by which the summit is attained
(3J-4 hrs.). It is also easy to gain the summit in a few
minutes from the Hiibellilcke to its E.
HubellUcke, c. 3180 m., 10,434 ft- (S. A. C. J.
xxxii. p. 338).
Between (he E. Hubelhom and the W. Mitselenhorn,
from the Gauli Club hut to the Pavilion Dollfuss.
Frau Taul Montandon, Herren Paul and Charles

i4o THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
Montandon, Aug. 18, 1893 (S. A. C J. xxix.
P- 132-3)-
The pass is gained from the Gaull Club hut by keeping
to the E. of the Hubelhorn route (3J hrs.).
The first party descended by the central of the three
gullies which run down S. between the Hubelhorn and
the W, Mieselenhorn j this steep gully was then iced
and defended by a double bergschrund, so that 2 hrs.
were consumed in reaching the Trifthorn glacier: thence
the party effected a difficult descent down the cliffs of
the Mieseleneggen to the Lauteraar glacier (4| hrs.),
much time having been lost in searching for the way.
The best way seems to be down a gully near the point
2786 m. to the Lauteraar glacier, which is gained at the
point marked 2390 m.
Herren Eduard and Ernst Weissmuller, Ad. Zuber,
and Karl Knecht, Sept. 22, 1902 (Alpina, 1902, p.
173), from the Trift glacier (gained from the pass by a
short steep gully) bore S.E. over snow, rocks, and stones
to the S. foot of the Rothorn ridge, and thence descended
by the Kiihtriften postures direct to the Pavilion Dollfuss
(about 2J hrs. from the pass).
Mieselenhbrner, 3219 m., 10,562 ft., and 3191 m.,
10,470 ft.
These two eminences may be so christened (for the
sake of practical convenience) from the Mieseleneggen
pastures at their S. foot.
They were ascended by Herr O. Hosier, with Chr.
Jossi and U. Fuhrer, Sept. 23, 1902, on the -way from
the Hithnerlucke to the Hubellilcke along the entire
crest of the ridge (A. J. xxl. p. 270, S. A. C. J. xxxviil.
p. 854).

THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP 141
HUhnerliicke (no height given).
Between the E. Mieselenhorn and the Hinter
Huhnerstock, from the Pavilion Dollfuss to the
Gauli Club hut.
Herren Pfarrer H. Baumgartner and R. Studer, and
Ilerren A. Kbrber and A. Baumgartner, with
J. Tannler, A. Anderegg, and J. Moor, July 10,
1889 (S. A. C. J. xxv. 129-132, 138-140, 520).
S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 3i°i kxxvii. p. 64.
The first party, from the Pavilion Dollfuss, gained the
pass in 4 hrs. by a devious route. They gained the
Hinter Trift glacier by crossing the notch between the
Rothorn and the Dollstock: from that glacier a snow
gully in the rocks led up to the pass. (An easier way
from Pavilion Dollfuss to the Trift glacier is to round
the 8. end of the Rothorn ridge ; gee under the Hubelltfcke
above).
The descent on the other side is at first down a steep
snow slope, and then down the lateral glacier between
the Hubel and Gletschergrind spurs. (It would no
doubt be easy to join, on the former spur, the Hubelhorn
route to the main Gauli glacier, and so to reach the
Gauli Club hut (2-2$ hrs.).
Huhnerstock.
Hugi's larger map calls it "Mieselenhorn," while
Wyss' and Desor's two maps give the name of Mieseleu to
the part of the range just to its S.W., which the Dufour
and 8. maps call the Mieseleneggen. The name
Hfihnerstock appears already on the Dufour map. As
to the relative heights of the two summits (in these
pages we give those marked on the S. map), see A. J.
Xlv. p. 604, xv. p. S24, 874-5, Oo. A. Z. 1891, p. 280,
S. A. Z. X. p. 11-12, S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 127, note, 134,
520, note, xxvl. p. 415, 469.

142 THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
I. Hinter Huhnerstock, 3310 m.( 10,827 ft.
a. From the N. W.
Herren Ffarrer H. Baumgartner and R. Studer,
Ilerren A. Korber and A. Baumgartner, with
J. Tannler, A. Anderegg, and J. Moor, July 10,
1889 (S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 132-7, 141, 521,
A. J. xiv, p, 504, xv. p. 324, 374, S. A. Z.
x. p. 28, 48-9, S7-8).
S. A. C. J. v, p. 660, xxxii. p. 310, xxxvii. p. 64,
xxxviii. p. 354.
From the Hiihnerlucke mount the N.W, arGte to the
summit (1-1J hr.). The rocks are jagged and pointed,
but there is no real difficulty.
b. From the £.
See Ete. 4. of the Gross Huhnerstock, as the traverse
of the arete between the two peaks has hitherto been
generally made from the higher to the lower summit.
c. From the S.E.
Messrs, V. A. Fynn and W. J. Murphy, Aug. 14,
1891 (Oo, A, Z. 1891, p. 281, S. A. Z. x. p. 12, and
S. A. C. J. xxvii. p, 350), from the summit descended,
by a good couloir in the S.E. flank of the peak, to the
Vorder Trift glacier (40 min.), and in 1 hr. more reached
Pavilion Dollfusa.
2. Gross Huhnerstock, 3348 m., 10,985 ft.
a. From the E. '
The Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge and Mr. Frederick Gardiner,
with Chr. and R. Aimer, Sept. 15,1886 (A.
J. xiii. p. 121, 309-313, S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 319).
S. A. C. J. v. p. 660, xxvi. p. 415, xxvii. p. 35O,
xxxvii. p. 63-4. Oe. A. Z, 1886, p. 286, 1891,
p. 280, 1894, p. 278. S. A, Z. x, p. 12.
From the W. Huhnertuali Pass either climb over the

THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP 143
first gendarmes on the E. arete, or turn them by way
of snow slopes leading to the foot of the N.E. face, and
then by that face itself (exposed to falling stones), or
by way of the S.E. rock face. The rooks are very
smooth and extremely rotten. Then climb np the E.
arete. A great flame-coloured gendarme on the E. arete
may be turned or climbed over, and constitutes the
main difficulty of the ascent. Beckon 2-2J hrs. from
the pass.
i, From the S. W. (ar£te between the two summits).
Messrs. V. A. Fynn and W. J. Murphy, Aug. 14,
1891 (Oe. A. Z. 1891, p. 280, S. A. Z. x. p. 12).
S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 136, 141, xxvii. p. 350, xxxii. p.
310, xxx\ii. p. 64, xxxviii. p. 354. A. J. xxi.
p. 270.
The rocky ridge is very narrow, but must be followed
throughout, save when it is necessary to turn on the
W. a great rock needle which bars the way, and other
teeth s the slopes on either side of the ridge are precipitous.
Diflerent parties have taken from 25 mln. to
1J hr. to go from the higher to the lower summit.
c. From the N. '
Herren A. Baumgartner, H. Biehly, HUSH, and E.
von Wyss, Aug. 6, 1896 (S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 810),
descended from the summit by the N. arete till about
half-way between the peak and the Gletschergrind
(1J hr.), when (by reason of bad weather) it was left
(though it might doubtless be followed right down to
the Huhnerthali glacier); in 1 hr. more, by snow slopes
on the W., the Huhnerliicke route was joined, and then
followed in 1 hr. 20 min. to the Gauli Club hut.
d. From the N.E.
Herr G. Hasler, with Chr. Jossl and U. Fuhrer,

144 THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
Sept. 23, 1902 (A. J. xxi. p. 270, and S. A. C. J.
xxxviii. p. 354), went from the Gauli Club lint to 4 hrs.
10 mm. to the foot of the N.E. buttress of the N. arete
(just N, of the letter " o" In the word "Hiihnerstock"
on the S. map). Good rocks led up this buttress to the
N. arete, which was struck only a few minutes below
the summit of the peak (attained iu 50 min. from the
foot of the N.E. buttress).
Rothorn, 3090 m., 10,138 ft.
Mentioned on Desor's two maps, and by 11 err G.
Studer in his Top. Mitt. p. 31, and on his 1838
Panorama from the Siedelhorn (annexed to that
book).
It was ascended in 1843 by MM. Desor and Dollfuss,
with J. Jaun and M. Bannholzer, without any
great difficulty, but Desor does not describe his route
(Desor, i. p. 601).
For the passage in 1889 of the notch between this
peak and the Dollstock, see the Hiihuerliicke above.
Dollstock, 3065 m., 10,056 ft.
This name (? a shortened form of " Dollfuss ") does
not appear on the maps, but is mentioned in S. A. C. J.
xviii. p. 25, xxv. p. 130, and xxxii. p. 838.
There seems to be no recorded ascent of this rocky
point. It is its lower point (3023 m.) to which Desor
alludes (i. p. 601).
Hlihnerthali Pass.
Between the Hiihnerstock and the Bachlistock, from
the Pavilion Dollfuss to the Gauli Club hut.
There are two depressions, which are separated by the
bold rocky pinnacle marked 3115 m., 10,220 ft., on
the S. map, which might be named Ktihtriftkorn,
from the pastures at its S. foot (S. A. C. J. v. p. 656,

THE HtiliNERSTOCK GROUP 145
xxiv. p. 140, xxviii. p. 330-1, and xxxvii. p, 65, note).
Tba HtitraerthKli glacier is marked under that name
ou tlie maps of Weias, Wyss, and Hugi.
1. W. Hilhnerthali Past, c. 3030 m., 9941 ft.
(S.A.C.J. xxxii.'p:'338).
This is an old pass, which is mentioned in 1795
' by Stettler (S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 357), on Meyer's
1813 map, in 1817 by Wyss (p. 717), and
by Hugi, ii. p. 79- It was crossed by Herren
G. Studer and R. Kernen, with Peter and
Andreas Sulzer, July 1868 (S. A. C. J. v. p.
6SS-663. xxvi. P- 317. 415. note, xxix. p. 129,
note, and Studer, i. 509).
A. J. xiii. p. 121, 309-310. Oe. A. Z. 1891, p. 280.
S. A. Z. x. p. 12. S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 63.
From the Pavilion Dollfuss mount along the stream flow,
ing from the Ktthtriften (2813 m.), by grass and stones,
to the W. branch of the Vorder Trift glacier, which
is ascended without difficulty to the pass (lj-21 hrs.).'
• The descent Is beat made from a gap rather E of the
lowest depression in the ridge. Steep loose rocks and
a steep snow or ice slope lead down to the bergscbrund,
beyond which the route lies down the easy Hiihnerthali
glacier to the two moraines called Gandegg, which are
crossed in order^to gain the Kammliegg, and so the
Gauli Club hut (2-3 hrs.).
2. E. HuhnerthliU Pass,,3023 m., 9918 ft,
Herren Hans Jvonig and Bouchat, July 10, 1901
(S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 66-7).
From the Pavilion Dollfuss mount N.E. over grass
and stones to the lower edge of the E. branch of the
Vorder Trift glacier, which is attained between the
points marked 2813 nv and 2789 m. on the S. map.
Then ascend that easy glacier to the pass (21-3 hrs.).
10

i46 THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
From the pass the first party bore far to the r., and
then descended by or on the edge of the rock rib (then
iced) to the double bergschrund, over which, after
crossing at a level from the end of that rib over the ice
slope, it -was necessary to jump, the slope between the
two, bergschrunds being less eteep than that above the
first. The first party took 3 hrs. to overcome these 50
metres, the condition of the rocks and ice "being very
unfavourable. The route of the W. Huhnerthiili Pass
is soon joined, and is followed to the Gauli Club hut
(2}-3 hrs, from the pass under ordinary circumstances).
Bachlistock.
Named Kilhtrift or Strahlberg on the maps of Wyss
and Hugi, Strahlberg only on that of Worl (1835) and
on Herr G. Studer's 1841-2 Panoramas from the Juchlistock
and the Mahrenhorn, Stengel's map (1846) first
gives the names of Vorder Triflstock or linMistock, the
latter being on the Dufour map (from 1875) and on the
S. map exclusively applied to this double - peaked
summit (see in general S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 570-2).
Wyss' and Hugi's maps apparently attribute the name
Bttchlilwrn to a spur N, of the Brunberg, but probably
really mean the present Klein Diamantstock, which
Studer's 1841-2 Panoramas from the Juchlistock and
from the Mahrenhorn, as well as his text (Top. Mitt.
p. 92) and Desor's 1845 map, certainly name liOohlistock.
The name Strahlberg, though placed on the
older maps at the point of junction of the ridges (just
where the Bachlistock rises), perhaps really belongs to
the Gross Diamantstock.
I. .9, Summit, 3274 m., 10,742 ft.
a. From the S. W.
Herren Pfarrer II. Baumgartner and M. Bremond,
with J. von Bergen and J. TSnriler, Sept. 27,

THE BUffNERSTOCK GROUP 147
1888 (S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 131 sqq., A. J. xiv,
p. 158, xv. p. 89).
S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 355. A- J- x!ii - P- 3>°-
From the Pavilion Dollfuss follow the E. Huhner.
thiili Pass route till near that pass. Now bear r,
(N.E.), and by rotten rocks, snow slopes, and a narrow
oouloir gain the gap between the two summits, and
then mount by the N. ridge of the peak to the top
(3-4 hrs.).
b. From the E. or S.E.
This route was taken by Herr L. Krebser, with the
brothers M. and N. Kohler, Sept. 19, 1893 (S. A. C. J.
xxix. p. 268, and Alpina, 1903, p. 125), who went up
the N. summit, 8270 m. The S. summit was attained
by this route by Herren Fischer and Baumgartner,
Sept 9, 1902 (S. A. C. J. xxxviii. p. 855, and Alpina,
1903, p. 100).
From the Biichll glacier climb up to the gap N. of
the Hofstettlenhorn (3159 m.) to the S.E. of the peak,
then traverse along the E. flank of the peak at a level
for \ hr., in order to reach and olimb a steep snow
couloir (weathered rocks at its upper end) to the notch
between the two summits, whence the summit Is gained
by its N. ridge (about 2} hrs. from the gap near the
Hofstettlenhorn).
a. N, Summit, '3270 m., 10,729 ft.
a. From the S. IV.
llerren Pfarrer II. Baumgartner, A. Baumgartner,
and E. von RlUte, with T. Baumann, sr. and
jr., July 26, 1892 (S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 32 s . 355.
A. J. xvii. p. 204).,
S. A. C. J. xxix. p. 268, xxxvii, p. 65.
From the Pavilion Dollfuss follow Ete. a for the S.

148 THE HUHNERSTOCK CROUP
Summit, till in or near the notch between the two
summits, and then climb up the S. arete to the top
(3-4 hra.).
b. From the S.E,.
See above Bte. b of the S. Summit.
Hofstettlenhorn, 3159 m., 10,365 ft.
This is a flue pointed tower (S. A. C. J. xxiv, p. 135)
which seems to be still unclimbed. It may be named
as above, from the Hofatettlen slopes at its S. foot.
Wyss' map spells this name "Hofstk'ttli," and see
S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 571.
BrandlammlUcke, 3047 m., 9997 ft.
Between the S. Summit of the Bachlistock and the
IV, Summit of the Brandlammhorn, from the
Grimsel or the Handegg to the Pavilion Dollfuss.
Also called Fellenbergliicke by the guides (S. A. C. J.
xiv. p. 257).
Ilerr E. von Fellenberg, with J. TSnnler and B.
Marti, Sept. 4, 1877 (S. A. C. J. xiv. p. 252-9).
S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 132-136, xxv. p. 571, 574,
xxvii. p. '471.
From llaterichsboden (1 hr, by the old mule path
below the Grimsel Hospice or above the Handegg Inn)
bear due W. and mount the wild Biichll glen, at first by
a faint path, then by none, over stones and glacierpolished
rocks, but always along the 1. bank of the
deeply-cut torrent, to the sandy plain of the Buchlisboden,
whence the 'Bachli' glacier is easily attained
(3 hrs. from the Grimsel Or the Handegg).' Mount this
gently sloping and not difficult glacier, and when on its
upper plateau bear 1. (8.W.) in order to gain by a steep
snow slope the well-marked depression that forms the

THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP 149
pass, the final bergschrund sometimes giving a little
trouble (3 hrs.).
On the other side bear 1. under the Brandlammhorn
for some distance along a rock band ledge to a steep
and "narrow gully, which must be descended till it
becomes impracticable. Now climb over a smooth
slab, and descend 20 feet into a second gully filled with
dtibris, which, though steep, leads without difficulty
down to the debris and stone-strewn slopes at the foot
of the rock wall. The first party descended by the
slippery grass and steep Ilofstettlen rocks to the
Uuteraar glacier, which was reached at the point marked
2262 m. on the S. map, and so they had to climb up
again to Pavilion Dollfuss. Probably (see under the
E. Brandlammhorn) it would be best from the foot of
the rock wall to bear slightly S.W., and then by the
KUhtriften slopes to gain the Pavilion direct.
The second party (Herr H. Baumgartner's, bound for
the Biichlistock in 1888) bore 1. from the pass, and by
steep rocks reached in \ hr, a small steep field of ceve,
whence they traversed to the W. high up on the flank of
the Hofstettlenhorn (3159 m.) to the S. edge of the E.
branch of the Vorder Trlft glacier (S. A. C. J. xxiv,
p. 137, and dotted route on illustration opp.'p.'328 of
S. A. C. J. xxviii.). vv *
Brandlammhbrner.
The name Braiiderlammerhorn is mentioned several
times in 1760 by Gruner (i. p. 46, 58, on the
illustration opposite p. 44, and under No. 29 on
his map). Wyss' and Hugi'g maps give the
form Brandlammi, and Desor's 1844 map that
of Brandlamm.
This massif consists of several distinct peaks (S. A.
C. J. xxvii. p. 360, note).

ISO THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP
t. W. Summit, 3088 m., 10,132 ft.
Ilerren Charles Montandon and Karl Knecht, July 9,
1895 (S. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 120-1).
From the Pavilion Dollfuas the first party went N.E.
over the stony Ktihtriften slopes to a considerable and
steep field of n

THE HUHNERSTOCK GROUP 151
gully (ending in rotten rooks) was mounted to the ridge
W, of the summit, whence a snow ridge gave access to
the summit (4 lirs. from Pavilion Dollfuss).
Brunberg.
This name (meaning " dark") assumes various forms
(the original and most correct form seems to be Bramberg
or Bromberg) in the older writers. In 1760 Gruner (i. p.
46, 65, 68) writes "Brustberg." In 1802 Weiss' Atlas
has '< Brun M.," but in the position of the Juchlistock.
Wyss and Hugi write " Brumberghorner" on their
maps. Herr Gottlieb Studer in his Top. Mitt, writes
"Bromberg" at p. 81, but "Bramberghiiruer" at p.
92, while on his 1838 Panorama from the Juchlistock
we find " Brumberghorner," and on his 1842 Panorama
from the Mahrenhom " Bromberghbrner." See too
S. A. C. J. xiv. p. 257, note, Desor on the map in his
1845 book writes "Bromberg," but (like Wyss' and
Hugi's maps with a second " Brumberg ") reverses the
position of this peak and that of the Juchlistock.
I. W. Summit, 2984 m., 9790 ft.
Ilerren P. Montandon and J. Martin, July 7, 1901
(S. A. C J. xxxvii. p. 307).
From the point marked 2420 m. (no longer indicated
on recent editions) on the S. map a little above the foot
of the Biichll glacier (1J-2 hrs. from Raterichsbodeu)
bear S. up the lateral glacier that descends from between
the two summits of the Brunberg. It has few crevasses,
but a long bergschrund. Above this bergschrund traverse
in a W. direction, and then an easy rock rib gives
access to the N. ridge of the peak (3 hrs.). Now bear
S., at first for a short distance by bad rocks, then by
the steep square snow-field that flows from the rocky
summit ridge.
50 ruin, are required to attain the ridge W. of the

152 THE HVHNERSTOCK. GROUP
second (reckoning from the 1.) rook tower on that ridge.
A curious glacier hollow leads r. past this tower to the
S. slope of the summit ridge, which ridge consists of four
sharp rock teeth. The most W.ly has the great slab
(inclining to the W.) which forms the highest point, and
was reached in 20 min.s' scrambling along the wild ridge,
past an iced hole, and by a final clamber, mounted on the
shoulders of the last man (7 hours' slow walking from
Riiterlchsboden).
This peak might be easily gained from the S.E. '
2. E. Summit, 2966 m., 9731 ft.
This is a fine bold rock tooth, connected with the
higher summit by a very wild ridge (S. A. C. J.
xxyii. p. 307).
Herren Charles Montandon and F. Monnard, Aug.
37, 1886 (S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 332).
From the Juchlistock gain the broad band or terrace
that stretches along the S. slope of the range, then
attain the crest of the ridge at a point above the point
(on the N.) marked '2554 m. on the S. map, and thence
follow that ridge more or less (keeping generally on
the N. slope) to the summit (about 4 hrs. from the
Juchlistock). Prom the gap between the two Summits
of the Brunberg a difficult descent was effected to the
brood band mentioned above, and thence past the
Biirenritz to the Uuteraar glacier.
Juchlistock, 2851 m., 9354 ft., and 2586 m.,
. 8 485 ft.
• In 1760 Gruner, both in his text (i. p. 37) and on his
map (under No. 24), and on his illustration opposite
1. p. 48, writes this name "Jauchliberg," while Wyss
and Hugi on their maps adopt the form " Jauchlihorn."
IlerrG. Studer (Top. Mitt. p. 92, and on his Panorama

THE H'dHNERSTOCK GROUP 153
from the peak) prefers the form " Juchlistock," while
Desor on the map in his 1845 book (like Wyss' and
Hugi's maps with a second "Brumberg") oddly reverses
the situation of the "Bromberg" or Brunberg
and the " Juchliberg."
The higher point (2851 m.) does not seem to have
been climbed.
The following notes refer to the lower E. Summit,
2586 m.
Herr Gottlieb Studer, with. P. Bauinaun, ascended
this point, Aug. 11, 1841 (Top. Mitt. p. 92-3, 168), from
the Grimsel by vway of a slope of granite torn with
Many clefts and covered with deep snow, and drew a
Panorama from the summit (reproduced in the Atlas
annexed to his Top. Mitt.). The ascent takes about
2| hrs. from the Hospice (Ball, p. 81).
This point can also ba reached in 2 hrs. from Raterichsboden
by following the steep but not difficult,
bed of a mountain torrent (S. A, C. J, xxii. p. 832).

SECTION VIII
The Rizlihorn Group
FROM THE OBEKB BXoHLHitiCKE TO THE
LAUBSTOCK
Obere Bachliliicke, c. 3100 m., 10,171 ft. (S. A.
C. J. xxxii. p. 338).
This wide depression (between the N. Summit of the
Biichlistock and the Gross Diamantstock) is situated at
the head of the Bacilli glacier, which it divides from
the Huhnerthali branch of the Gauli glacier. It is thus
very conspicuous, especially from the Gauli side, and
is mentioned by most of the earlier explorers of the
district (Desor, ii. p. 179, S. A. 0. J. v. p. 661, xiv. p.
255, xxiv. p. 134-6, xxix. p. 129). As to the name, see
S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 135 note, xxv. p. 569, 572-3, xxvi.
p. 415. In 1889 Herr H. Baumgartner's party Intended
to cross it (S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 136). But it was
first certainly visited, by travellers, Oct. 5, 1890, by
Herren Charles Hontandon, F. Monnard, and £.
Farner (S. A. C. J. xxvi. p. 415, xxix. p. 125), who had
been preceded (at some date before July 1868) by Andreas
Steiger, and another herdsman, of the Matten Alp.

THE RIZHHORN GROUP 155
There is sometimes an open bergschrund at the foot of
the ridge, but otherwise there are no serious difficulties
in the ascent from the Hiihnerthali glacier on the
W. side (reckon 4 hrs. from the Urnen Alp to a point
0.2850 w. on the upper Huhnerth'all glacier, and 1J hr.
more by a steep snow slope to the depression). On
the E. or Bachli glacier side there is, however, a great
rock wall (perhaps 80 ft. high), which it is said (S. A.
C. J. xxvi. p. 415) could only be overcome by means of
ladders or a long rope. Hence this depression is not
Jet a "pass," but only a " depression."
Gross Diamantstock, 3151 m., 10,338 ft.
The older maps (see above under Bachlistock) probably
meant by the name of " Strahlberg " to designate
this peak, which they wrongly placed. Wyss' 1816
map and Desor's 1845 map call it « Huhnerthalihorn,"
Herr G. Studer (on his Panorama from the Juchlistock)
preferring the form " Huhnerthalistock "—in all three
cases this peak and the true Huhnerthalihorn are
rolled together into one summit.
In recent times it has been called "Diamantstock"
(S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 331), while the epithet "Gross"
has been prefixed in order to distinguish it from a lower
peak to the E. (S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 134_5> xxv. p. 140
575, xxvi. p. 415). ' '
I. From the S. W.
Frau T. Montandon, Herren Taul and Charles
Montandon, Aug. 15, 1893 (S. A. C. J. xxix.
p. 124, 128-130).
S. A. C. J. xxvi. p. 415.
From the Gauli Club hut follow the Huhnertnali
Pass route to near the W. foot of the Obere Bachlilucke.
Then cross a bergschrund and mount the rocks above to

IS6 THE RIZLIHORN GROUP
a field of debris, whence a gully In the rocks of the W.
buttress of the peak, followed by the rocks on its side,
leads to the S.W. arete, which is struck where It begius
to slope towards the Obere Baclilililcke (reckon 4} hrs.).
This arete is then followed, at first on its E. slope, but,
beyond a steep gully that must be descended, on its W.
slope, to the summit (1J hr.). On the descent the foot
of the rocks was regained by the first party In 4 hrs.
from the top.
2. From the N. W.
Herr G. Hasler, with Chr. Jossi and U. Fuhrer,
Sept. 25, 1902 (A. J. xxi. p. 270-1, S. A. C. JV
xxxviii. p. 354-5).
From the Oauli Club hut follow the Hlihnerthali Pass
route to near the spot indicated by the figures 2783 ni.
on the S. map. Now bear E. and by a diflioult couloir
gain the N.W. arCte of the peak (4J hrs. from the Gauli
Club hut), which is followed to the summit (1J hr.).
3. From the S.E,
Same party, date, and references as for Rte. 2.
The above party from the summit followed the S.
arete for a short Way, and by well-defined ledges reached
the Bachli glacier and then the Untere BaohlllUcke in
2.J hrs. from the top of the peak.
Untere Bachliliicke, 270x3 m., 8859 ft. (S. A. C. J.
xxxii. p. 339).
Between the Gross Diamantstock and the Diamantgrat,
from the Gruien glacier to the B&chli
glacier.
This (without the qualification "Untere") is the
local name of this pass known to the herdsmen, and so
called because (see under Klein Diamantstock) the peak
now called Klein Diamantstock was formerly named

THE RIZLIHORN CROUP 157
Biichlihom. See as to the actual name of the pass,
S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 569, 573, xxvl. p. 415—the proposed
name, Aerlenlucke (S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 133, note), Is
inappropriate, as the pass leads over the Gruben glacier,
though from the Aerlen Alp. On Wyss' 1816 map the
whole ridge E. of the Gross Diamantstock is called
Steinlauinen.
It was crossed by travellers, probably for the first
time, by Herren Charles Montandon, F. Monnard, and
L. Liechti, Aug. 24,1886 (S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 331, xxiv.
p. 417, xxvii. p. 860, and Oe. A. Z. 1887, p. 69).
From the Aerlen Alp hut (1685 m., j hr. above the
Handegg Inn), follow the 1. bank of the Aerlen torrent
till beyond the point marked 1942 in. on the S. map.
Then bear N.W. up a gully, well shown on the S.
map, and by grass gullies, stones, and an old moraine to
the edge of the Gruben glacier, which Is attained (about
2 hrs.) rather 8. of the spot (commanding a fine view)
marked 2493 m. on the S. map. Now bear S.W. over
the gently sloping Gruben glacier, later keeping to the
1. by steep zigzags (concealed crevasses), and finally
mount for a short way, over huge unstably-poised
boulders, to the pass (1} hr.). The descent on the other
side by the Biichli glacier and glen (see the Brandlammlilcke
route) to Eaterichsboden (3 hrs.)—1 hr. above the
Handegg Inn or below the Grinisel Hospice—offers no
• difficulties.
The pass can also be reached in 2J hrs. from the
Gross Diamantstock (see Rte. 3 of that peak).
Diamantgrat, 2773 m., 9098 ft. (S. A. C. J. xxxii.
P- 339).
As to this name (not on S. map), see S. A. C. J. xxiv.
p. 135, xxv. p. 140, 573, and xxvi. p. 415.
In 1902 Herr Hasler's party (see Klein Diamantstock
.below) may have visited this spot.

I$8 THE RIZL1H0RN GROUP
AelplilUcke, 2600 m., 8531 ft. (S. A. C. J. xxxii.
P- 339)-
Between the Diamantgrat and the Klein Diamantstock,
from the Gruben glacier to the B'dchli glacier.
For this name see S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 135, 331, xxvi.
p. 415; it is that by which the pass is known to
the herdsmen of the Aerlen Alp and of Rsterichsboden.
Probably the first passage by travellers was that made
by Fraulein S. Konig, Herren R. Konig and
Charles Montandon, Oct. 12, 1891 (S. A. C. J.
xxvii. p. 360). See also S. A. C. J. xxxviii.
p. 354-5, and A. J. xxi. p. 270-1.
"On the Gruben glacier side the approach to this pass
(i lir. from the Bacilli glacier) is by a somewhat steep
snow slope, studded with rocky knobs, as contrasted
with that to the Untere Biichliltteke. Otherwise the
two passes are very much alike.
Klein Diamantstock, 28,00 m., 9187 ft., or 2790 m.,
9154 ft.
This name is now recognised (S. A. C. J. xxv. p. 140),
though it does not yet appear on the S. map. But we
may be permitted to regret, with Ilerr A. WKber (S. A.
C. J. xxv. p. 571—3), that the older name cannot, for
reasons of practical convenience, be retained. Wyss'
and Hugi's maps mention a TiHelilihom, marked by them
apparently as a spur N. of the Brunberg, but evidently
meant for our peak ; while Desor's 1845 map, and Herr
O. Studer's 1841 Panorama from the Juchlistock, and his
1842 Panorama from the Miihreuhorn (see too p. 82 of
his Top. Mitt,), certainly give the name of ISUchlistock
to our summit,
Herr G>. Hasler, with Chr. Jossi and U. Fuhrer, Sept.

THE RIZLIHORN GROUP 159
25, 1902 (A. J. xxi.' p. 271, and'S. A. C. J. xxxviii.
p. 355), from the Untere BachlilUcke (reached in 2$ hrs.
from the Gross Diamantstook) followed the S. slope of
the Diamantgrat to this peak (J hr.), and desceuded
thence by the Gruben glacier to the Handegg.
Aelplistock, 2880 m., 9449 ft., and 2895 m., 9498 ft.
Mentioned under the name of Aelpli/iorn.on Heir G.
Studer's Panoramas from the Juohlistock and the Mah«
renhorn.
No information.
Aerlenhorn, 2454 m., 8052 ft.
Mentioned under this name on Wyss' and Hugi's
maps, and on Herr G. Studer's Panoramas from the
Juohlistock and the Mahrenhorn. Desor's 1845 map
calls it Etienatock. On the S. map it bears a triangle.
No information.
Points marked 2647 m„ 8685 ft., and 2595 m.,
8514 ft.
B5se Seite, 2239 m., 7346 ft.
No information as to any of these three points, the
two lower of which bear a triangle on the S. map, and
so are probably easily accessible, no doubt from the S.
Hiihnerthalihorn, 3181 m., 10,437 ft-
Wyss' 1818 map and Desor's 1845 map have this name,
but place it where the Gr, Diamantstook really rises;
while Hugi's map indicates the peak in the same position,
but gives no name. These three maps simply
make one peak out of two.
I. From the S.
Herren Charles Montandon and II. Kummerli, Sept.
24, 1888 (S. A. C. J. xxiv. p. 417-9, and A. J.
xiv. p, 158).

i6o THE RIZLWORN GROUP
From the Aerlen Alp hut (1685 m., \ hr. above the
Handegg Inn) follow the Untere Biichliliicke route to
the Gruben glacier, which is reached rather to the S. of
the point (fine view) marked 2493 m. on the S. map
(about 2 lira.). The glacier has hardly any crevasses,
and is ascended to the foot of the peak (} hr.). Crevassed
snow slopes and an inolined snow-field then lead up to
the gap between the peak and the Or. Diamantstock
(40 min.). The S. arete is now climbed, sometimes
along the crest, sometimes by the savage rock' ribs on
its W. side and the gullies between them. In about
2 hrs. the first top is attained, and 20 min. .beyond is
the culminating point (6-7 hrs. from the Aerlen Alp).
2. From the S.m
The same party on the descent (ibid. p. 419-420)
descended direct down the S.W. flank of the peak, first
by a steep gully, and then by a better one, more to the
I. hand. But the final precipices above the HuhnerthSIi
glacier forced them to remount nearly as high as the
gap gained in the morning from the Gruben glacier
(about 2 hrs.). An ice slope was then crossed to a third
deeply-cut gully, still more to the I., which with difficulty
brought the party over hard-frozen avalanche
snow to the foot of the peak, at a height of e. 2730 m.
(3| hrs.). Thence the .main Gauli glacier was gained
over a steep snow-field, debris, moraine, and huge
boulders.
From the Gauli Club hut reckon 6 hrs. up the peak
by this route (S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 61).
3. Front the N,
llerren Hans and Paul Konig, P. Baumgartner, and
E. von Steiger, July 19, 1900 (S. A. C J.
xxxvii. p., 62-3).
From the summit the descent by the N. arete (very

THE R1ZUH0RN GROUP 161
steep MM! very rotten rocks) took 1J hr. to the depression
iu the ridge at the N. foot of the peak,
A direct descent from this spot to the Gaull glacier did
not seem advisable. The party were therefore forced to
climb N. along the very jagged ridge (rocks rotten and of
various striking colours) to the point marked 3021 m.,
whence debris and stones led down easily to the Gauli
glacier.
Gruben Pass, c. 2970 m., 9844 ft. (S. A. C. J, xxxii.
P- 339)-
Just $.W, of the S. Golegghom (3023 m.), from the
Gauli Club hut to the IJaiulegglnn,
This is the best route from the Gaull ,Club hut to
the Handegg (S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 332). • It la probably
one of the passes, known to the herdsmen, which are
mentioned by Desor, ii. p. 179, and is perhaps alluded
to iu S. A. C. J. xiv. p. 625. It was crossed (probably
lor the nrst time hy travellers) by Herr Pfarrer II.
Baumgartner and Herr Bigler, with J. von Bergen
and (1) Frutiger, Aug. 2,1887 (S. A. C. J. xxiii. p. 78-
80).
From the Gaull Club hut gala the Gauli glacier (1J
hr.) by the Gauli Pass route, and then cross that glacier
to its r. bank. The ascent lies thence up eteepish slopes
of loose stones and a steep snow-field, but offers no
difficulties, and in about 2J hrs. from the Club hut
the pass is attained.
On the other side the descent of the Grubeivglacier, at
first in a S. direction, then due E., ia easy. It is quitted
as usual (see Untere Bachlilucke) rather S. of the. point
marked 2493 m. on the 3* map, whenoa a gully leads
down to the Aerlen glen.. Tins is gained near the point
marked 1942 m. on the S. map,, and.then along the 1.
bank of the torrent the Aerlen Alp hut is reaohed (1J-2
11

162 THE RIZLIHORN GROUP
hrs.), which is a short J hr. above the Ilandegg
Inn.
Beckon 4-6 hrs. for this pass, if taken from the Gauli
Club hut, but 6 hrs. if taken from the much lower
Handegg Inn.
Golegghorner, 3023 m., 9918 ft. ; 3070 m., 10,073
ft.; and 3086 m., 10,125 ft.
This long ridge (called Grubengrat on the S. map)
extends between the well-marked depressions of the
Gruben Pass (S.W.) and the Steinlauenenlilcke (N.E.),
but the several peaks rise only slightly above the general
level of the ridge. They were visited (probably for the
first time) by Herren Paul Montandon, R. Konig, and
A. Bernoulli, Sept. 13, 1896 (S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 332-8,
Alpiiut, 1896, p. 148).
From the Gauli Club hut gain by the Gauli Pass
route the Gauli glacier (1J hr.). Then cross it in a
S. direction, traverse four moraines, and passing by the
spots indicated by the figures 2479 m. and 2587 m. on
the S. map, reach the snow-fields stretching W. of the
Central Golegghorn. Mount over these to the gap
between the points 3023 and 3070 of that chains
thence the former (S. Golegghorn) is attained by 10
min.s' climb over rocks (5 hrs'. walking from the
Club hut). From the same gap J hr. suffices to attain
the point 8070 m. (Central Golegghorn), whence 25 min.
more are required to reach the point 8086 {If4 Golegghorn),
the culminating summit of the chain.
(By way of the gap, c. 3030 m., between the points
8070 m. and 8086 m. it might be possible to cross the
range).
The party descended from the N. Golegghorn to the
Steinlauenenlilcke, but for various reasons this short
distance required 2 hrs. 20 min. to traverse. From that
gap the descent Was made to the Gauli glacier,

THE RIZUHORN GROUP 163
Steinlauenenliicke, 2970 m., 9844 ft.
Between the N. Golegghorn and the Steinlattenenhorn,
from the Malten Alp to the Handegg,
On Wyss' 1816 map the name " Steinlauinen " is given
to the whole of the ridge extending E. from the Huhnerthalihoru-Gr.
Diamantstock (considered as formtog
one peak), while Hugi's 1830 map attributes the
same name to the glacier now known as the Grubeu
glacier.
This pass was visited (on the way down from the
N. Golegghorn) by the above-named Golegghorn party,
Sept. 13, 1896, who two days later revisited it (S. A.
C. J. xxxii. p. 336-7) in order to ascend the Steinlauenenhorn.
It is probably alluded to in S. A. C. J.
xiv. p. 625, when it was reached from the N.W. by
Prof. Baltzer, who did not descend on the other side.
From the Matten Alp (50 min. below the Ganli
Club hut) mount by the Bockwange slopes to the
point marked 2805 m. on the r. bank of the Steinlauenen
glacier, and thence gain the pass by that glacier
and a rather steep snow and ice slope (1 i hrs.). The
descent on the other side has not yet been effected.
Graugrat.
On Wyss' and Hugi's maps the name of " Weissgrat"
or "Graugrat" is given to the entire chain
between the Huhnerthalihorn and the Rizlihorn. (To
the N. half of this ridge Wyss gWea also the odd
name "bey der Thur," which probably has some connection
with the natural " window " in the ridge, just
S. of the point marked 3123 m. on the S. map', see
S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 333, and the illustration opp.
P. 334).
One of the points on this ridge (it is now impossible
to determine which) was climbed about 1792 by the

164 THE RIZUHORN GROUP
surveyor J, H. Weiss, who was then employed in preparing
hia Atlas (last sheet appeared in 1802). He
named his peak " Blaues Gletscherhorn, and a sketch
made by him from the summit is still preserved (see
Studer, i. p. 512, Graf, p. 652, and HerrDltbi's article on
" Der Alpinismus " in the work entitled "DieSchweiz
im 19ten Jahrhundert," Bern, 1900, iil. p. 421). On
his Atlas Weiss names only the Bizlihorn (as " Iloh
Bizlihorn"), but distinguishes by circles the present
Hiihnerthalihorn, and also two points (one of which
is no. doubt the peak climbed by him) between that
summit and the Bizlihorn: the topography is rather
vague, but one of these points seems to be the present
Steinlauenenhorn, and the other a peak to its N.
Steinlauenenhorn.
I. i 1 . Summit, $164 m., 10,381 ft.
Ilerren Paul Montandon, R. Konig, and A. Bernoulli,
Sept. 15, 1896 (S. A. C. J. xxxii.
p. 337, Alpina, 1896, p. 146).
The first party, from, half-way between the point
marked 2805 m.,on the r. bank of the Steiulauenen
glacier and the Steinlauenenliicke, bore 1. to the foot
of the peak, and then mounted, by means of a gully
and snow slopes to the r., direct to a point some metres
higher than the 'Steinlauenenliicke. Thence they followed
the easy rock ridge northwards to the peak (OJ
hrs., including halts, from the Matten Alp). Having
ascertained that the peak is accessible on most sides,
the above party, from the top, at first followed the rocky
8.E. ridge, but finding that this ridge would probably
take too long, they, from the first tooth on it, bore
S.W., and by good rocks and snow attained the snowfield
(Golegg gjacier)-^here is a small glacier lake
(S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 834)—on the Ilandegg side of .the

THE RIZUHORtf^GROUP 165
Steinlauenenhioke, near the " Q " of the figures " 2970 "
°n the S. map (1J hr. from the top). The descent
thence was made by the small Golegg glacier and the
Gruben glacier to the Aerlen Alp aud the Haudegg Inn.
2. Central Summit, C. 3150m., 10,335 ft.
See S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 333, an.d illustration
opposite p. 334.
3' N. Summit, 3132 m., 10,279 ft,
Herr Paul Montandon, July 26, 1896 (S. A. C. J.
xxxii. p. 333-4, Alpina, 1896, p. I46).
This ascent took 4J hrs. from the Matten Alp. The
point 2805 m. on the r. tank of the Steinlauenen glacier
was gained by the Steinlaueneuliicke route. A steep
rock gully then led upwards in a E, direction, but halfway
up it is best to take to the sharp ridge on its
(proper) 1, bank. The descent was effected by means of
a narrow and steep snow gully (at its upper end the
walls are smooth, and make it difficult to enter this
gully) and the rocks on its I. bank. The final rooks
above the glacier gave some trouble, but there are good
handholds, and a jump over the half-open bergschrund,
aud a long glissade, led to the rocky island, marked
2676 m. on the S. map (ljhr. irom the top of the peak).
Points marked 2881 m., 9288 ft.j 2626 m 86l6 ft ,
and 2509 m., 8232 ft.
All visited by Herr Paul Montandon, July 26, 1896,
the first named ascended by its easy N.W, artte from
the Aerlen glacier, and the two others taken on the way
down from the former point to the Gruben glaoier (S A
C. J. xxxii. p. 334).
Rlzli Pass, c. 3000 m., 9843 ft. (s. A. C. J. xxxii.
P- 339)- " . < < %
between the "window" in the ridge (just S. of the
point marked 3123 m.) and the Jf. Summit of the

166 THE KIZLIHORN GROUP
Steinlauenenhorn (3132 »'.), from the Matten
Alp to the Handegg Inn.
Messrs. Legh S. I'owell and F. Gare, Aug. 14, 1891
(A. J. xv. p. 547, S. A. C. J. xxvii. p. 349, and
private information).
See also S. A. C. J. xxxii. p. 333, 339, and the illustration
opp. p. 334.
From the Matten Alp huts (50 min. below the Gauli
Club hut) the party went in 3 hrs., by the Steinlauenenliicke
route, to the point marked 2805 m. on the r. bank
of the Steinlauenen glacier. Then they climbed up
rocks to the 1. hand, and struck the ridge at a spot considerably
higher than the true pass (2 hrs.), which was
gained by a descent of 40 min. down "interesting
rocks."
" The pass is marked by a remarkably slender and
sharp pinnacle of light-coloured rocks. A shorter and
better way would have been to have attacked the rocks
immediately below the pass and nearer the Rizlihorn."
The Aerlen glacier meets the pass on a level, and the
grass-grown cliffs below it are quite practicable ; but
the first party thought it best to make a long round to
the S. to the Gruben glacier, and then to descend by ft
very long and trying moraine. 4 hrs. (Including halts)
were taken from the pass to the Handegg Inn.
Reckon 7 hrs. by the direct route from Matten Alp to
the Handegg Inn.
Points marked 3123 m., 10,247 ft-> and 3158 m.,
10,361 ft.
No information.
Aerlengratli, 2686 m., 8813 ft., and 2479 m.,
8134ft.
S. A. C. J. iv. p. in.

THE RIZL1H0RN GROUP 167
It U no doubt possible to cross this ridga from the
Aerlen to the Wissbach glacier.
Stampfhorn, 2553 m., 8376 ft.
This name appears on the maps of Wyss and Hugi,
as well as on, Herr G. Btuder's Panoramas from the
Juchlistock and Mahrenhorn, and is mentioned by him
In S. A. C. J. iv. p. 211.
No information.
Aerlenfaden, 2229 m., 7313 ft-
No information.
Rizlihorn, 3282 m., 10,768 ft.
This summit (so conspicuous from the Grimsol route)
is named by all the old writers and maps from Gruner
in 1760 (i. p. 47, 55, 69, and No. 31 on Ms map) downwards.
Some prefix the epithet "Hon." In 1795
Stettler tells us (8. A. C. J. xxxi. p. 359) that the
height of the peak, according to the observations carried
out by order of Herr Meyer, sr., of Aarau, is " 10,180
Schuh " above the sea-level—the figures given on Weiss'
Atlas (published at the expense of Herr Meyer) are
"8780 feet" (Paris feet). There is a vague story that
in the "forties" the peak was ascended by a Herr
Schaub of Bale, but no details are known (S. A. C. J.
iv. p. 229).
I. From the W.
This is by far the best route up the mountain.
The Rev. Sedley Taylor and Mr. II. de Fellenberg
Montgomery, with Melchior Blatter and Kaspar
Neiger, Aug. 3, 1864 (A. J. >. p. 379).
S. A. C. J. iv. p. 230-4. Oe. A. Z. 1891, p. 277-
Ball, p. 125.
From the Gauli Club hut descend to the Matten Alp
chalets, which are on the r. hank of the main valley

168 THE. RIZUIIORN" GROUP
stream (50 ruin.). 'Thence mount E. by grass and loose
stones, and climb up a very steep and obvious couloir
(the first to the 1. hand of the peak as seen from below,
B. A. 0. J. iv. p. 230) to the N.W. ridge, which is then
followed to the Bummit In J-l hr. more.
Beckon about 5 hrS. up from the Hatten Alp.
2. From tlie N.E.
This is a very laboiious and fatiguing route, the
difference in height between Guttannen and the
summit being 7159 ft.
llerr Pfarrer Marti, with Feter Sulzer, June 22, 1865
(S. A. C. J. iv. p. 213/229).
S. A. C. J. iv. p. 213-222, xxii. p. 101-3. Oe. A. 2.
1891, p. 277.
From Guttannen cross a level tract to the 1. bank of
the deeply-out ravine of Sprettlauenen, which is crossed
higher up, aud scanty sheep' pastures mounted towards
the foot of the peak. It is best to follow the green promontory
of the Mittelbergli as far as possible. Then
climb up by loose aud steep rocks and gullies to the N.W,
arete, which is struck some way to the S.E. of the
Mattenlinimi (2761 m.), and near the point marked
2869 m. ou the S. map. That arOte is then followed to
the summit, keeping sometimes along its S.W, slope.
Many loose stones and rotten rocks.
Reckon 6-8 hrs. up from Guttannen, the time varying
according to the amount of snow on the mountain, and
other causes.
3. From the S.JE.
Herr Marti's party In 1865 (S. A. C. J. iv. p. 230)
descended by a steep and difficult slope, and finally a
snow gully, to the Wissbach glacier, whence the Teturn
to Guttannen offered no difficulties. • '
Pfarrer A. Burner, with Hans Abbiihl, Sept. 1885

THE RIZUHORN GROUP 169
(private information), from the top descended for about
100 metres by rook ribs in a N.E. direction towards the
gap between the peak and the Lichbritter, then went
down S.E. by ledges in the rocks, and by a jump of
3 metres gained a couloir to the r. (falling stones here).
The party at length reached the steep snow-field which
joins the Wissbaoh glacier at the foot of the rocks near
the point marked 2691 m. on the 8. map. This glaeief
was then descended for \ hr. along the base of the
Lichbritter rock wall, then the descent was continued
first by steep grassy slopes on the 1. bank of the central
°f the three torrents flowing from the glacier, and finally,
from the junction of two streams by the bed of the
torrent Itself. In this way the stony Wlssbach pastures
were attained, and J hr. later the Schwarzbrnnnen
bridge on the Grimsel carriage road (times not stated).
Lichbritter, 2822 m., 9259 ft.
See S. A. C. J. iv. p. 211, 218.
No information.
Wachtlammstock, 2333 m., 7655 ft.
This name (like that of Wybe Lueg or Wibenlug
wrongly placed on Wyss' map and th/s. marfrefefs
to the story that thence the women of Guttannen could
No information.
Mattenlimmi, 2761 m., 9059 ft.
Between the points marked 2869 m. and 2872 m. en
the N. W. ridge of the Rizlihom, from the Matte,,
Alp to Guttannen.
This pass is marked on the S. map, and was crossed
(probably for the first time by a traveller) by Mr J B
Carrington, with Hans and Melchior Kohler 'and a
herdsman from the Matten Alp, July 29, 1888 (A. J.

170 THE RIZUHORN GROUP
xiv. p. 247). It is perhaps alluded to by Desor, il.
p. 179, and in S. A. C. J. xiv. p. 625, and la mentioned
ibid. iv. p. 214.
From the Matten Alp huts (reached in 2J hrs. from the
Dossen Club hut by way of the Flaschen Alp huts, the
passage of the Renfen torrent, a high traverse, and round
the N. foot of the Tellengrat, or in 50 min. from the Gauli
Club hut—for details in either ease see " Club Huts " in
the Introduction) the party bore to the 1. up very steep
grass slopes, and, beyond, by several stone gullies to the
r. hand, to the pass (2 hrs. from the Matten Alp). It is
so narrow a gap that but one person can pass through it
at a time. The couloir descending from the pass on the
other side seems to be impassable, so it was thought
best to bear round to the r. amongst overhanging and
very unstable rocks. When the slope became less steep
the party bore N. across numerous ridges and gullies,
which led to beds of very hard avalanche snow, that
necessitated step-cutting. Reckon about 6-7 hrs. from
the Matten Alp to Outtannen.
As regards the ridge N.W. of the Eizlihorn, Gruner
says (i. p. 63) that there is a low summit, called Slock
or Unterstocken (named under No. 33 on his map), on
which the snow generally melts iu warm summers—on
its slope is the hamlet of Unterstocken. Wyss' J816
map gives the following names for points (" Spreitlaui "
is, of course, the well-known avalanche gully) on or
near this ridge—Spreitlaui, Thiereggen, Galauistiicke,
Tristen, KUhthalstOcke, GaulibUhl, and Laubatock \ but
Hugl's 1830 map gives only a selection of these names
—Spreitlaui, Qalauist&cke, Tristen, and Laubatock.
See in general S. A. C. J. iv. p. 207.' This ridge still
awaits exploration, except in so far as regards the
Lanbstock.

THE RIZLIHORN GROUP 171
Thiereggen, 2894 m., 9495 ft -
Biirglistock, 2192 m., 7192 ft.
Tristenstock, 2876 m„ 943 6 ft -
The Biirglistock is on the N.E. spur of the Thiereggen,
but the Thiereggen and point 2744 m. (below) are
included by the S. map under the general name of
Oallauiatbcke,
No information.
GallauistBcke, 2744 »-. 9°°3 ft-
This name (under the form of GoIIauistocke) is attributed
to this peak by Herr Gottlieb Studer (S. A. C.
J. iv. p. 207), who considers it probably identical with
the Kuhthalstocke (mentioned on Wyss' map of 1816).
Bettlerhorn, 2133 m., 6998 ft.
No information.
Laubstock, 1650 m., 5414 ft-
Hugi (i. p. 145-6) tells us that in Aug. 1829 he devoted
three days to exploring the Laubstock region, and
gives a geological account of it.

SECTION IX
The Dossen Group
EAST OP THE WETTERIIMMI
Engelhorner.
This jagged group (which is mainly composed of
limestone) is so conspicuous from Bosenlaui and the
valley of Hasle that it is but natural that it should early
have attracted considerable attention. In 1606 Hebmann
(p. 482), and in 1716 Soheuchzer (p. 171), mention
the " Kngelshorn." In 1760 Gruner speaks of and illustrates
(i. p. 56, 64, and illustration opposite p. 64) the
long rocky ridge of the " Burg," on which he distinguishes
three summits (all named on his map, under
Nos. 34-6)—the Burr/horn (same name on S. map), the
Mitlaghorn (the highest), and the Engdhorn. Weiss'
Atlas (1802) calls the higher portion of the range
" Engelhorn M.," and the lower portion "Lauihorn
M.," names which are repeated on Meyer's 1813 map.
Wyss' 1816 map gives the following names—Engelhorn,
Hohjdgih., Teiih., Lauih., and Burgh., while in his text
(p. 703) he tells us of a great landslip that fell in 1792
from the Lauihorn. Hugi's 1830 map marks only the
Engelhorn and the Burg, at the two extremities of the

THE VOSS£JV GROUP 173
range; but In his text (p. 130-7) he naturally describes
the range from a geological point of view. Desor's 1845
map marks simply JCngdhlirner. In 1854 Ober (ii.
p. 858), describing the view from Eosenlaui, after mentioning
the Wellborn, continues thus (paraphrasing
Gruner's words): " les autres sommites de cette mGme
chaine attendant dans la direction de la vallee de
Hassli out nom de Jiurg, quelques-unes de sea pointes
ressemblant en effet a des mines d'auciens chateaux,
et Lauihorn, pio des avalanches. Ce chateau a plusleurs
tours i la tour par excellence est nommee Jiurghorn,
oelle du milieu, la plus tjlevee de toutes, est
appelee JUUtaghorn, et la troisiunie, ou la plus occidentale,'
s'appelle das Eiigelliorn; cette derniere ofl're
une pointo bifurqnue I lorsque la lune se Hve exaotement
au milieu de J'echancrure, elle a l'aspeot tl'un angt
radieux avec ses deux ailes noina: de la son nom qui
signifie «pio des anges.'"
This curious little group (which Ja separated on the
S.W. by the deep depression of the Engellucke from the
Gstellihorn) • was first thoroughly explored in the
summers of 1901-2 (A. J. xxl. p. 203, S. A. C. J xxxvii.
p. 306-7, xxxviii. p. 357, Alpinct, 1902,' p." 135 145*
1902, p. 117, Oe. A. Z. 1902, p. 221-6), though its
higher peaks had been vanquished before that date.
An outline map (by Herr G. Hasler), correcting in
various points the S. map, is given in Oe. A. Z. 1902,
p. 223. But of these recent explorations practically no
details have as yet been published, so that in these
pages we confine ourselves to a few of the more prominent
summits, and rely largely on MS. accounts.
Klein Simraelistock.
This la the small rocky point that rises to the N.W.
of the Simmelistock proper. • It was'first climbed (Iby
the N. arete), Sept. 22, 1S95, by two Meiringen guides

174 THE DOSSEN GROUP
(when trying the higher summit from the N.W.),
Niklaus Kohler and Heinrich Bieder {Alpina, 1903, p.
126). The first travellers to visit it were Herren H.
Kenipf and J. Martin, July 8,1898 (Schweher-Tourist,
Sept. 1898, p. 73, and Alpina, 1903, p. 100).
Miss Gertrude Bell, with U. and H. Fuhrer, who
ascended the peak July 8, 1902 (A. J. xxi. p. 203,
Alpina, 1903, p. 100), gives the following account in the
" Rosenlaul Climbing Book," p. 64.
From Rosenlaul go to the Oclisenthal (1J hr.), and
then .by the footpath across that valley. Now mount
straight up the grass slopes to a pinnacle on the N.W.
side of the hill, go up the 1. side of that pinnacle,
cross over to the r., and climb a crack that leads
towards the W. arCte, which must be crossed (1J hr.).
Now climb another crack that brings you to a point
just below the summit, which is gained by following the
arete to the W. (1 hr.). The party descended from the
peak to the gap between it and the higher Simmelistock,
and then went straight down the N.E. face by some
smooth rocks. The top of the grass slopes was regained
in 2J hrs. from the summit, and 1 hr. more past the
Reicbenbach Alp sufficed to reach the Rosenlaui
Hotel.
Simmelistock, 2487 m., 8160 ft.
The name of this peak (and of its lower neighbour)
comes from the word "Semniel," meaning a "petit
pain," or breakfast roll, which it is supposed to resemble.
The name and height of this summit are misplaced
on the S. map, as the peak really rises near the
extremity of the spur stretching N.W, from the Vorderspitze
(2632 m. on the S. map)—see the map in Oe. A. Z.
1902, p. 223. It is just S, of the "J" in the word
" Jagiburg" on the 8. map (A. J. xxi. p. 203).

THE DOSSEN GROUP 175
Mr. Claude A. Macdonald, with R. and P. Aimer,
Aug. 20, 1898 (A. J. xix. p. 251, 3*5-330, S. A.
C. J. xxxiv. p. 310, Alpina, 1898, p. 114).
See also Alpina, 1901, p. 79. ! 3S. and the "Rosenlaui
Climbing Book," p. 9-
The first party from Rosenlaui mounted the Ochsenthai
(the 1 hollow enclosed between the two great spurs
descending N. and N.W. from the Gross Kngelhorn,
2783 m.), and by steep grass slopes gained the 8. foot of
the peak (2 hrs. 65 min.). Then they mounted a very
steep couloir (good rocks), bearing to the 1., and keeping
the peak on their 1., for about 2 hrs., sometimes in the
couloir, sometimes near it. This brought them to a
gap (now called SimmdUattel) in the arfite, at the B.E.
foot of the final tooth. The ascent of this tooth (about
250-300 ft.) is extremely difficult.
The first party took 1J hr. to scale it, mainly by a
long and very narrow crack, in which several successive
faults made it necessary, in each case, for the members
of the party to climb over each other's bodies (see the
illustration in A. J. xix. p. 327). <
The second party (Herren H. Kempfand J. Martin,
Aug. 21, 1898, Schweiser-Tourist, 1898, p. 101-4, and
S. A. C. J. xxxiv. p. 811), on the ascent, kept rather to
the r. of the narrow crack, while, on the descent, they
kept always on the W. slope of the peak, and by two
couloirs attained the foot of the rock wall.
Miss Bell gives (in the "Rosenlaui Climbing Book/'
p. 36) the following details as to her ascent, effected
Aug. 80, 1901. The party roped at the foot of the
couloir (in the Ochsenthal) farthest to the r. (about
1$ hr. from the Rosenlaui Hotel to this point), and
reached the Simmelisattel in another hr. Thence they
climbed up a tower to the 1., and Btuck to the couloir
immediately above it, leading up the 1. side of the

IJ6 THE DOSSEN GROUP
mountain. They reached the summit iu 2 hrs. from
the Simmeliaattel. They came down a series of aretes,
which they had left on the r. hand as they ascended.
Here they found in two places nooses of rope fastened
round the rock, through which they were able to slip
a thin double rope, iu order to facilitate the descent for
the last man.
Mr. Gerard Collier (in the "Rosenlaui Climbing
Book," p. 10, under date Aug. 18,1902) gives the following
minute details as to the final climb. The first 20
ft. or so of the final 250-800 ft. offer very difficult but
straight-forward rock climbing. Then there is a ledge
on which four or five persons can get comfortably. Now
the first chimney begins. In going up it, care must be
taken not to get top far in, as it tapers off towards the
top, and one is apt to get jammed. It is at an angle of
perhaps over 80°. To get from the top of the first
chimney into the second, one has to cross the bare
smooth rocks, also at an angle of about 80°. But there
is a most indispensable resting-place at the bottom of
the second chimney, where three people can haul from,
and one or two others find space to stow themselves
away/if needs be.. The hold up the first chimney, and
over the bare space, is most scanty, but the second
chimney is altogether much easier, and the hold fairly
good. The last 70 ft. or so are perfectly simple, and
present absolutely no difficulty.
Vorderspitze, 2632 m., 8636 ft.
Gertrude's Peak.
Ulrich's Peak.
Mittelspitze.
These four points were first ascended by Miss Gertrude
Lowthian Bell, with U. and H. Fuhrer, Sept. 3, 1901

THE DOSSEN GROUP m
(A. J. xxL p. 203, Alpina, 1901, p. 185, and S. A. C. J.
xxxvii. p. 808-7)., ,The following account by Miss Bell
is taken from the " Rosenlaui Climbing Book," p, 41. • •
'•'Leaving the shoulder (probably the Simmelisattel is
meant) of. the Sinjmelistoek, at 8.30 A.M., the party
ascended the peak to its S. (christened Vordenpitze,
2632 m. on the S. map), reaching it at 9.15 A.M. They
descended the S. side to the next saddle, and ascended
the next peak (named Gertrude's I'eak) by some smooth
rocks on the N.W. side, reaching the top at 9.65 A.M.
They desoended the rocks into the same saddle, then
went down a smooth couloir for about 5 min., and kept
to the S.W, along the foot of the peak, taking the next
couloir up to the saddle to the S. of Gertrude's Peak.
The rock In this couloir Is muoh more solid than that of
which the rest of the arete is composed. (When they
were on the S. saddle they saw a good chimney on the
S.E.'side of Gertrude's Peak by which It could be
ascended on this face). They followed the ar&te and
reached the top of the next peak (named Vlrich'a Peak)
at 12.45 P.M. They desoended this peak by the S, face
and oontinued along the arete past a gendarme till they
reached the top of the fourth peak (ohristeued Mittel*
spitxe) at 1.45 P.M. (This peak could be descended by
following the arete to the E. side, and from the saddle
the asoent of the next peak could be made by some
smooth rocks, in which there is a crack). They returned
and descended at once by Borne very, smooth couloirs
into the gully which leads down into tho Urbachthal.
They ascended the gully to the saddle, and made their'
way down to the Simmelisattel.
Klein Engelhorn.
Gemsenspitze.
These two points were first ascended by Miss Bell
with U. and H. Fuhrer, Sept. 7, 1901 (LTixlZ
12

178 THE DOSSEN GROUP
203,' Aljpina, 1901, p. 145, S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 307).
The following account by Miss Bell id taken from the
" Rosenlaui Climbing Book," p. 43, 45.
The party on Sept, 6 had attained the Gemsensattel
(the gap between the Gemsenspitze, N., and the lower
point of the Urbaohthaler Engolhorn, S.) by the following
route. They went from the Rosenlaui Hotel to the
Ochsenthal, and then selected a point whereat to attack
the rocks. This point is almost at the top of the
moraine on the 1. hand side, about the middle of a small
u&vi, They went straight up for the first hundred ft.
then turued slightly to the 1., and reached a cave (1 hr.
from the vM). Thence they went almost straight up
by easy rocks to an arfite of very smooth rock, which
they traversed to the r. They thus gained an easy
couloir that led up to a chimney of very rotten rock, by
which the Gemsensattel was gained (2 hrs.).
On Sept. 1, knowing the right way, they gained the
Gemsensattel more quickly, taking 1 hr. 65 min. from
the RoMenlaui Hotel to the foot of the rocks, and 1 hr.
CO min. more up to the Gemsensattel. Then in \ hr.
they climbed to the N. up the Oemsenspitze, and thence
followed the arete N, wards to the gap between it and
the Klein Eugelhorn. They then turned to the S.E.
along the face of the Klein Eugelhorn towards a small
well-defined chimney, but before they reached it they
turned straight up the exposed face of the rock. This
face is on the 1, hand side of the chimney which leads
down from the first gendarme on the summit ridge.
They traversed to the r. for about four steps, and continued
up the face of the mountain until they came to an
overhanging rock. On the r. hand side there are two
cracks, with a big rock (about 6 ft. high) between them,
and on its top a small platform, sloping down' towards
the precipice.. In order to reach this platform they
were obliged to stand on-each other's shoulders. Above

THE DOSSEN GROUP J 79
the platform there is an. upright nlab, about 7 ft. high,
leading to the first gap. Above this gap there is a
«mall rotten chimney, leading up to the foot of the first
gendarme, whence they were obliged to make a traverse
lightly downwards, on the N. face of the mountain,
towards a small chimney leading up to the last gen-

180 THE DOSSEN GROUP
climb of 1 hr. along the mam S.W. arete leads to the
lower summit (at the junction of that arSte with the
S.E. spur), whence over a second top the higher summit
is easily gained.
Beckon 4-6 hrs. from the lower Knzen Alp (which Is
1J hr, below the Augstgumm Alp), or 3J-4J hrs. from
the Dossen Club hut.
Cross Engelhorn, 2783 m., 9131 ft.
I. From the S. IK
Mr. H. Seymour Hoare, with J. von Bergen, and
Kaspar Streich, Sept. 21, 1876 {Pioneers, p. 70).
In 1889 Mr. C. E. Freeman found on the summit a card
of von Bergen's, with Mr. Hoare's name and the date
1876. Von Bergen informs us that the exact date was
as given above, and that the starting-point was the
Augstgumm Alp, whence by way of the smooth rook
slabs named the ZeUern, anil then keeping for a time
in a N. direction towards the Hohjagiburg, the S.W.
art"te was first gained and then followed to the summit.
Mr. C. E. Freeman hai kindly supplied the following
notes (written in 1894).
From the Dossen Club hut or the Augstgummen Alp
follow the Gstellihorn route to the high grassy pastures
above the cave (1J hr. from the Dosseu Club hut).
Continue to bear N, for about J hr. till you are nearly
under the conspicuous gap of the KngdlAck* (the lowest
point in the ridge between the Gross Kngelhorn and the
Gstellihonwthe figures 2742 m. on the S. map indicate
a rock point to the S. of this gap). Reach this gap in
1 hr. by climbing a rocky slope. The S.W. artte is veiy
steep, and the rocks often very rotten. It is a, stiff climb
of S hr. to 1J hr. from the Engellilcke to the summit.
Beckon 4-4 J hrs. from the Dossen Club hut.
2. From the N,E.
Fraulein Helene Kuntze and Herr G. llasler, with

THE DOSSEN GROUP 181
U. Fuhrer, July 3, 19°* (A.. J. xxi. p. 203,
Alpina, 1902, p. 117, Oe. A. Z. 1902, p. 222,
and S. A. C. J. xxxviii. p. 357).
As yet no detailed description of this expedition hai
Veen published.
King's Peak, 2626 m., 8616 ft.
This summit Is the second highest on the »p\ir which
runs N.W. from the Gr. Engelhorn in the direction of
ftosenlaui.
I- From the W. or S. \V,
Sir H. Seymour King, with Ambrose Supersaxo, and
A. Anthamatten, Aug. 13, 1887 (A. J. xiii.
p. 416, xiv. p. 26-9, S. A. C. J. xxiii. p. 48i,
Oe. A. Z. 1888, p. 291).
See also Alpina, 1901, p. 135, 1902, p, Uj4
Mr. C. E. Freeman has kindly supplied the following
notes (written in 1894).
From Rosenlaui follow the track to the glacier for
20 min. Then strike 1. through the wood over some
polished rocks, and get clear of the wood in 35-40 min.
•Ascend over grass slopes for 10 min., then bear to the
r., and reach in J hr. more a ridge ia the midst of the
great ravine which here separates you from the foot of
the Rosenlaui glacier. From this rijge you 8e9 ft con.
spicuous gap at the foot of the S. \v, arjte of 2628 m.
Descend from the ridge, passing under the foot of ft
smooth couloir which runs down from the N.W. of
2626 m., and reach the aforementioned gap in s'hr
Here the climb begins. It requires 2* Urs. to the top!
over rocks often difficult. You are not so much on the
arCte, as in coulo.rs r. or 1. of it, most often to the 1
To turn the first of the gendarmes which block the
artte, make a httle to the 1. from the gap, and climb

182 THE DOSSEtf GROUP
a broad couloir (No. 1). It begins with a somewhat
difficult rock traverse, leading to steep rocks which
have to be climbed, partly by a craek. You now get oil
to the arfcte and climb along easier rooks for a short
time. Then you must again take to a couloir (No. 2)
on your 1., and by it reach the crest of the arGte again
(1J hr. from the gap), nearly on a level with the smooth
couloir mentioned above as coining down from the N.W.
of the peak. You must, however, leave the crest almost
immediately for a couloir (No. S), also on the 1., and
climb by it to the foot of the second gendarme—that
which, as seen from Kosenlaui, is so' conspicuous high
up on the r. of the mountain. The upper part of this
couloir is very much shut In. It now remains to turn
the second gendarme. This is done by going to the r.
(i.e. behind it), first by very easy rocks, then by a
short, steep, narrow couloir (No. 4). Once out of this
couloir you are above the top of the gendarme, and a
simple climb of 10 min. takes you to the summit of the
peak (1 hr. from the top of couloir No. 2, or 2J hrs.
from the gap). Beckon 4 hrs. 50 min. front Kosenlaui
to the top.
Mr. Freeman is of opinion that Sir If. S. King's 1887
route joins that described above (taken by Messrs.
Freeman and H. C. Bowen in 1894) at or somewhere
near the top of couloir No. 2. Sir H. S. King's party
seem to have climbed a difficult rock spur on the W.
flank of the peak, whioh is divided from the peak by
the smooth couloir mentioned above, and then,to have
crossed over the top of this couloir in order to join the
route described above.
2. By the N. W. arlte.
According to the " Kosenlaui Climbing Book " (p. 37),
Miss Bell and Mr. Gerard Collier, with U. and H. Fuhrer,
Aug. 31, 1901, from the Rosenlaul Hotel followed the

THE DOSSEN GROUP 483
Dossen Club hut path as far as the top of the ladder,
and then climbed a couloir leading straight up towards
the Oehsensattel. Quitting it i hr. below that gap, the
Party went tip a smooth gully to the gap at the N.W.
foot of King's Peak. Thence the N.W, arOte was
followed to the summit (5 hrs. 40 min. from the Hotel,
fuel, halts and the ascent of Gerard's Peak, or Castor, a
small point Just N.W. of the aforementioned saddle).
Gstellihorn, 2857 m., 9374 ft-
In 1760 Gruner (i. p.» 56-7, 64, illustration opposite
p. 69, and No. 38 on his map) mentions this
peak under the name of Stellihorn, a form also
found on Desor's 1845 map. Meyer's 1813 map
has Gestellihorn, but Wyss* 1816 map, Hugi's
1830 map, the Dufour and S. maps all adopt
the form Gstellihorn. Both forms signify a spot
where the hunted chamois are brought to bay
("gestellt").
Hugi in 1828 (i. p. 140) explored this region from
a geological point of view. In August 1836 Herren
Arnold Escher von der Linth and B. Studer possibly
attained the actual summit of the Gstellihorn, though
the original accounts are not quite clear as to this detail
(Escher, p. 9, Desor, i. p. 606-7, S. A. C. J xxxviii
p. 890-1, and Alpim, 1903, p. IOQ, H5). But Herr
Armin Baltzer affirms that they did reach it, as he
himself certainly did at some date before 1880 (Baltzer
P. 119).' The first ascent by foreign Was that v effeot(J(J
by Messrs. W. W. Graham and J. H. Gibson, with
188«Tq IT' T v°» J?""' *»*»«in, An*. 6,
1885 (S. A. C. J. .xxii. p. 70, note, and 8 A Z vi
p. 159-,-in 1889 Mr. C. E. Freeman fn„„ 1 ^ A ,
this party in the bottle on the top ^ ^ ° arda ° f
S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 69-76. S. A.Z. vl. p. 158.-163.

184 THE DOSSEN GRO UP
The following notes are mainly based on thoie
(written In 1894) courteously supplied to us by Mr,
C. E. Freeman.
From the Dossen Club hut descend in } hr. to the
Urbaehsattel (or else, longer, before reaching that
gap bear r. by a debris slope to the narrow track
mentioned below). Then bear to the 1. (N.E.), under
the cliffs of the Gstellihorn, descending a good deal in
order to skirt rocks. Continue to bear along the hillside
to the 1. in a direction roughly N., usually on a
narrow track (where the grass and stones require care),
which U somewhat higher up than the one marked on
the S. map and leading to the Augstgumm Alp. In
{ hr» from the Urbaehsattel you reach the crest of
a ridge running down into the Urbachthal. Thence
descend towards a cave (visible from the ridge), and
reach a snow slope. ,
Here falls in the way from the Augstgumm Alp,
whence you must mount by grass and debris to
the most southerly of the gorges in the great
rock wall between the Gstellihorn and the
Gross Engelhorn, which is filled with avalanche
snow—the snow slope mentioned above. (Above
this gorge and visible from the Enzen Alp is a
black rock wall over which some water flows).
• Mount this snow slope tdl you can cross over, to the
N.,' to some inclined and very smooth limestone slabs,
called the f^eitern, the highest bit of which Is steep,
with little hold (this is the only difficult part of the
ascent). Then, still bearing to the N., skirt, almost at
a level, the foot of a big rock wall, and pass near or by
the- aforesaid cave (J hr. or rather more from the ridge,
—1J-1} hr. from the Urbaehsattel). Hence about 2J
hrs. are required to the summit. First go 6 min. to the
N., then turn W, (1.) up some high grassy pastures for
10 min.

THE DOSSEN GROUP 185
These pastures mark the point at which the routes
for the Gstellihorn, the Gross Engelhorn, and
the Urbaohthalef Engelhorn divide.
Turn 1. again towards a very conspicuous and curious
hollow, composed of polished rock slabs, that Tuns up
to the 8.W. Climb along the smooth rocks On its S.
e

186 THE DOSSEN GROUP
valley, or to the X. if coming from Bosenlaui; while
from the point marked 2560 m. on the S. map (S. of the
pass and on the route to the Club hut from Bosenlaui)
it takes but \ hr. to descend to the wide opening of the
pass. See, therefore, the description of the routes to the
Dossen Club hut, given at the head of this work.
Dossensattel.
Between the point marked 2882 m. on the S. map and
the Dossenhorn, from the Dossen Club hut to the
head of the Rosenlauiglacier.
This is the ordinary route from the Club hut for
those bound for any of the Wetterhbrner, the Wellborn,
or other peaks round the head of the Rosenlaui glacier.
It is a snowy depression (not indicated on the S. map),
and is probably the "col de neige" mentioned by
Desor (i. p. 607) when on his way from the Urbachsattel
to the Dossenhorn.
S. A. C. J. xii. p. 67, 73-4, xx. p. 155-6, xxx.
p. 408-9, xxxl. p. 104, xxxii. p. 339.
From the Dossen Club hut bear S.E., by the sometimes
badly crevassed Dossen glacier, and round the
E. base of the point marked 2882 m., whence the gap is
soon reached (1 hr.). On the other side a long and
steep gully, filled with snow or ice, leads down direct
to the head of the Bosenlaui glacier (J hr.). .If bound
for the Wetterkessel, it is possible to traverse the rocks
on the W. flank of the Dossenhorn, rather than descend
by the couloir and then remount (S. A. C. J. xx. p. 156,
xxii.. p. 83, xxxi. p. 105); but these rocks are slippery,
and owing to the retreat of the glacier it is not easy to
pass from the rocks to the ice.
Dossenhorn, 3140 m., 10,302 ft.
A Tanorama from the summit is given in the " Beilagen"ofS.
A. C.J. xxx.

THE DOSSENGROUP 187
The name appears as "Tosse" in Besson's 1786
"Manuel a l'usage des savans' et curieux qui
_ voyagent en Suisse " (S. A. C. J. xxxviii. p. 254).
It is spelt Tessenhorn or Tosenhorn by Wyss, Hugi,
and Desor, on their maps or in their text. The
local name is said to be "Dossen" and not
"Dossenhorn" (S. A. C. J. xx. p. 161).
Apparently ascended by Herr F. J. Hugi, Aug. 13,
1828 (Hugi, i. p. 137-8), from the Urbachsattel, with
descent on the E. to the Dossen glacier. In 1843 it was
reached from the W. by Desor's party, who descended
S.E. to the Renfen glacier (Desor, i. p. 608-612).
S. A. C. J. xi. p. 546 (circular rainbow), xxiii. p. 78,
Xxx, p. 408, xxxi. p. 106, xxxvii. p. 69. A. J. xii. p.
271 (circular rainbow). Alpina, 1894, p. 109, 1903, p.
38. D. & Oe. A. V. Mitts 1893, p. 34. Oe. A. Z. 1903,
p. 68.
Best reached in J-J hr. from the Dossensattel either
by the N. ridge, or by traversing the steep but good
locks of the W. slope to the S. ridge. It can also be
gained from the Dossen glacier by Us E. rocky slope.
Renfenjoch, 3051 m., 10,010 ft.
Between the Dossenhorn and the Renfenhom, from
the Wetterkesstl to the Urbach valley.
This name, originally given to the E. Wetterlimml
(A. J. iv. p. 255, Ball, p. 125), but is far more appropriate
to the pass about to be described (S. A. O. J.
xxxii. p. 339).|
This route seems to have been taken for the first time
(so far as is recorded) by Mrs. Main (Le Blond) and
Herr Theophil Boss, with Chr. Jossi and Ulrich Kauf.
to>a«in, Sept. 15, 1890 (A. J. xv. p.- 369). The wide
depression is easily gained from the Wetterkessel, but

188 THE DOSSEN GROUP
on the other side there is an ice wall. This may be cut
down (bear very much to the r. to the rock rib most to
the r.) in 2 lira., or avoided by bearing left over the
rocks of the Dossenhom and the snow at their base.
Earlier in the season this descent down the middle of
the Benfen glacier would probably be easier than in
September.
Renfenhorn, 3272 m., 10,735 ft.
Called Reiiferhwn on the maps of Wyss and Hugi,
and {by an odd confusion) Ankenballen on Desor's
1845 map.
The Rev. A. G. Girdlestone and Mr, J. H. D.
Matthews, in 1867, having by mistake reached the
summit from the Matten Alp by way of the Gauli
glacier and the E. arete, found there a cairn of unknown
origin (Girdlestone, p. 100-1).
In 1893 Herr M. Bedall found in the cairn a card of
a Herr Lindt, but apparently without a date (D. & Oe.
A. V. Mitt. 1893, p. 34).
S. A. C. J. xxiii. p. 78, xxxvii. p. 59. D. & Oe. A. V.
MM. 1893, p. 34.
Accessible in 2 hrs. from the Dossenhom by the ridge
between them (if coming direct from the Dossen Club
hut first gain the Eenfenjoch, 3051 m.), or in 3 hrs. by
its W. 'slope from the Gauli Pass.
If starting'from the Gauli Club hut, keep along the
W. slope of the Kammligrat, round the W. foot of the
Hangendgletscherhorn, and from the point marked 3073
in. on, the S. map mount the S. slope of the peak to its
E. arete, which is followed to the summit (3 hrs.).
Hangendgletscherhorn, 3294 m., 10,808 ft.
This peak, which is visible from the Inn at Innertkirchen
(S. A. C. J. x. p. 343), takes its name from
the small "hanging glacier" on its E. flank. It is

'THE DOSSEN GROUP 1S9
perhaps the Kammlihorn of Gruner (i. p. 66, 65, illustration,
p. 64, and No. 37 on his map), The peak is
mentioned by its present name on G. S. Studer's 1790
" Panorama de.la ChaJne des Alpes vue depuia Berne "
(S. A. C. J. xxviii. p. 258), by.Stettler in 1795 (S, A.
0. J. xxxi. p. 356), on Weiss' 1802 Atlas, and on the
maps of Wyss, Hugi, and Desor. Herr G. Studer's
1850 Panorama von Bern (p. 47-9) gives a long account
of the mountain, and states that it can be easily
climbed from the Urnen Alp (near the present Gauli
Club hut) in 4 hrs. at the moat, and that its summit is
occasionally visited by the herdsmen. The first ascent
by travellers of which a printed account has appeared
is that effected by Pfarrer R. Gerwer and Pro£
Chr. Aeby, with Peter Michel and Peter Inabnit, Aug.
15,1863 (3. A. C. J. i. p. 660, xx. 86, note, and Aeby,
p. 46-7). • On the summit they found a cairn, perhaps
built for the Federal surveyors (S. A, O. Jj x. p. 843).
See Desor, ii. p. 130, A. J. iv. p. 260, and S. A. C. J.
xii. p. 70.
The ordinary route up (S. A. C. J. xxii. p. 86 note)
is that of the first party (see also A. J. i. p. 379, and
S. A. C. J. X. p. 343-350, 361-2). _
From the Gauli Club hut cross the Kammli stream,
and then mount N.W. along the N.E.'slope of the
Kammligrat till a good way up, and under the point
marked 3148 m. on the S. map. (It is of ooursa also
easy to take to the Ifangeiid glacier lower down)., Then
take to the Hangend glacier and reach the summit by
the rocks of the S.B. ridge (4-5 hrs.).
The first party descended by the jaggod N.W. ridge,
and then' by a snow couloir, which descends from the
gap S.E. of the great gendarme (marked 3215 in. on the
S. map), to the Gauli glacier, which is gained near the
curve 2940 m. on the S. map (see also S. A. O. J. xxii.
P. 81, 84-90, xxxvii. p.' 60)..

igo THE DOSSEN GROUP
It ia also possible to traverse the whole ridge (turning
the great gendarme on its W. side) from the Benfenhorn
to the peak, this wild ridge being easier than it looks,
in about 8 hrs. (Herren F, Konig and A. Baumgartner,
July 19, 1900, S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 60).
In case the snow is in bad condition, it is possible
from the summit to follow the 8.E, ridge to the spot
marked 8072 m. on the S. map before descending to the
Hangend glacier, and then to the Kammli stream, which
is followed to the Gauli Club hut (S. A. C. J. xxxvii.
p. 60).
Kammligrat, 3148 m., 10,329 ft.; 3122 m., 10,243
ft.} 3072 m., 10,079 ft. j and 2998 m., 9836 ft.
. Possibly one of these points is the Kammlihorn mentioned
by Gruner (i. p. 56, 65, illustration opposite p. 64,
and No. 37 on his map)—see S. A. C. J. xxviii, p. 249.
Herr G. Studer in 1840 visited the Kammligrat (S. A.
C. J. xxvi. p. 815), and perhaps it is this range (probably
simply the Kammliegg) that is noticed in 1851 by
the Schlagintweits (p. 20).
For an ascent in 1900 of the points 3148 m., 8122 m,f
and 8072 m., see above under the Hangendgletscherhorn,
and S. A. C. J. xxxvii. p. 60.
Tellengrat, 2824 m., 9265 ft.; 2718 m., 8918 ft. 5
and 2565 m., 8416 ft.
Also popularly known as SagizUline, from their jagged
appearance.
The point marked 2718 ni. was visited by Herren
A. Bernoulli, B. Konig, and Paul Montandon, Sept.
12, 1896 (S. A. C, J. xxxii. p. 332, and Alpina, 1896, p.
148), who describe the ascent as a pleasant afternoon's
scramble (\\ hr.) from the Gauli Club hut.

THE DOSSEN GROUP 191
Gwachten, 2515 m., 8252 ft., and 2469 m., 8101 ft.
No information.
Kiipfenstock, 2675 m -> 8 777 ft-
A good view-point, easily accessible in 1J hr. from
the Gmili Club hut (S. A. C. J. xxix. p. 127).

Aarengrat, 130.
AarengratH, 136, 138.
Abschwung, 98.
Aolphhoni, 159.
Aelpliliicke, 158.
Aelplistock, 150.
Aerlenfaden, 167.
Aerlengratli, 166.
Aeilenhorn, 159.
Aerlenhieke, 157.
Agassizhorn, 29.
Agasslzjoch, 30.
Aimer, the guide, 5,70,107.
Almerhorn, 4.
Alte Strahlegg, 69.
Altmann, 46.
Ankenballen, 130, 188.
Ankenballi, 130.
„ , Klein, 181.
Augen, (Ue, 84.
Buchilttcke, 57-8.
Bachhhorn, 146, 158.
B.voMilUcke, Otero, 154.
• t
, Untere, 158.
Bachlisboden, 148.
Baohlistock (1) 146, (2)
146, 158.
Beihorn, 115.
Berglijoch, 127-8.
INDEX
Berglistock, 128.
Bettlerhorn, 171.
Bieligerlttcke, 59.
Blaues Gletscherhorn, 164.
Blumhorn, 103.
Boss Seite, 159.
Bramberg, 151.
Bramberghorner, 151.
Brandlamm, 149.
Brandlammnorner, 149.
Brandlammi, 149.
Brandlammliicke, 148.
Brandlerhorn, 81.
Brandlerlammhorn, 149.
Bromberg, 151.
Bromberghomer, 151.
Brumberg, 151-2.
Brumbergnorner, 151.
Brun, M., 151.
Brunberg, 151.
Brunnhorn, 75.
Brustbera, 151.
Bugel, Ouer, 11.
Burg, 172-3.
Burghorn, 172-3.
Bilrglistock, 171.
Castor, 183.
Concorde, Place de la, 2.
Crystals, 53.
192

Deaorstock, 54.
Diamantgrat. 167.
Diamantstock, Gross, 155.
„ , Klein, 168.
Distelgrat, 27.
Dollatock, 144.
Dosaeuhorn, 186.
Dossensattel, 186
t)ru, Grindelwald, 105.
Elliottswang, 88.
Engolhbrner, 172.
Engelhorn, Gross, 180, <
„ .Klein, 177, 179.
„ .Urbachthaler, 179.
Engellttcke, 173, 180.
Engelshorn, 172.
Erlenstock, 169.
Esehergrat, 50.
Escjiernorn, 61.
Ewigschneehorn, 134,
Faul Berg, 19.
tfaulberg, 23.
„ Pass, 23.
•Fellenberglitoke, 148.
f iesoher (Jabelborn, 20. ,
Fiescherhbrner, Grindeh
wald, 2.
, Walliaer, 19.
Fiesoherhorn, Gross, 6.
, Hinter, 13.
„, " KIein - 7<
Elesoherjoch, 12.
gieschersattel, 6-7, 9, 14.
gnschhorn, 2, 81.
*msteraarhorn, 31.
Finsteraarjoch, 28.
^inateraar Bothorn, 43.
Flrrenhorner, 58.
rirrenliicke, 58.
Gabelhorn, Fiescher, 20,
13
INDEX 193
Gagg, 74....
Galauistbcke, liO.
Gallauisto'cke, 171.
Galmiengrat, 59.
GaliulenUbrner, 59.
Galmihorner, 57.
Galmiliieke, 57..
«' Gaull," name, 136.
Gaulibiihl,. 170.
Gaulihorn, 134. .
Gaull Pass, 135.
Gemaensattel, 178-9.
Gemsenspitze, 177-8.
Gemsltioke, 42.
Gerard's Peak, 183. >
Gertrude's Peak, 177.
Gescheuerstock, 65.
Geatelliborn, 183.
Gletscherberg, 72.
Glelsohferhorn, Blaues,
164.
Golegghb'rner, 162.
Gollauistb'cke, 171.
Graugrat, 163.
Grindelwald Dm, 105.'
Grindelwald Fiescberhb'rncr,.
2.
Grindejwaldjoeh, Ober, 128*
Grubengrat, 162.
Gruben Pass, 161.
Grtinbergli (1) 62, (2) 137.
Gruneck, 18.
Grlinecknorn, 17.
Grunerhorn, 49.
Grtinhorn, Grindelwald, 10.
„ , Gross, 17.
;, ,, Klein, 16.
Griiuhbrner, Walliser, 16.
Grtinhbrnli, 18. •
Grunhornlucke, 18. l
GrlinhornMcke, Klein, 15.
Gstellihom, 183.
GwSchten(l)77,(2>19J.

J94 INDEX
Gwachtenjoch, 77. • '
Gweid, 138..
Hangendgletscherhorn, 188.
Happislummelti, 136.
Ilasle Jungfrau, 107. '
Hinter Trifthorner, 138.
Hofstettlenhorn, 148.
Hohjiigihorn, 172.
Hoh Kisli, 167.
Hohthurnen, 75.
Hubelhorner, 139.
Hubelliicke, 139.
Hugihorn, 97.
Hugisattel, 38-40.
HiihnerlUcke, 141.'
Hiihnerstock, 141,
H(ihnerthUlihorn(l)155,(2)
159.
Huhnerthali Pass, 144.
Hfihnerthalistock, 155.'
Jacksonspitze, 11.
Jagglisberg, 128, 132.
Jauchliberg, 152.
Jauclilihorn, 152.
Juchlistock, 152.
Jungfrau, Ilasle, 107.
Kamm (1)19,(2) 21.
Kammliegg, 190.
Kammligrat, 190.
Kammlihorn, 189-190.
Kastenhorn, 67.
Kastenjoeh, 65.
Kastenateinhiirner, 82.
Kastlenliorn (1) 57, (2) 69.
KeSsiberg, 66.
Kessihorn, 66.
King's Peak, 181.
Krinne, Grosse, 106, 116.
„ , Kleine, 112,115.
Kuh, Auf der, 61r2.
KUhthalstScke, 170-1. '
KUhtrift (1) 138, (2) 146,
KUhtrifthorn, 144.
Kttpfenstock, 191.
Laubstock, 170-1.
Lauihorn, 172-3.
Lauteraarhom, Gross, 92.
• „ , Klein, 96.
Lauteraar Rothorner, 98.
Lauteraar Kothornlttcke, 98.
Lauteraar Triftho'rner,137-8.
Lauteraarsattel, 99.
Leitern, 180, 184.
Liohbritter, 169.
Lily's Peak, 104.
Lbffelhorn, 65.
Mattenlimmi, 169,
Mettelberg (1) 75, (2) 83.
Mettenberg, 74.
Mettenbergjoch, 76,
Mettler, 757
Mieselen, 138, 141.
Mieselennorn, 141.
Mieselenhorner, 140,
Mittagborn, 172-3.
Mittelgrat, 71.
Mittelhorn, 117.
Mitteljooh (1) 113, 127-8,
(2) 126.
Mittelspitro, 177.
Moncbjoch, 1.
Mtinsterjoch, 62.
Nadel, 31-2, 83.
Naase Strablecg, 68.
Niiaaihorner, 81.
Nassu'ooh, 80.
Nollen, 65.
Nonnen, die.verfluchten, 84.
Oberaarhorn, 49.

Oberaarjoch, 47.
,, , South, 55.
Oberaar Kothorn, 58.
Oberaar Rotjoch, 55.
Ochs, 4, 7.
Oohsenhorn, 7.
Oohsenjoch, 8-9.
Ochsenthal, 175.
Pfaffenstockli, 10.
Pfarrerhorn, 10.
Reissen, 75.
Renfenhorn, 188.
Renfenjoch (1) 132, (2) 187.
Renferhorn, 188.
Risihom, 61.
Rissenhorn, 61.
Ritzenhorn, 58.
Rizhhorn, 167.
Rizlt Pass, 165.
Rosenegg, 127.
Rosenhorn, 122.
Rossenhorner, 62.
Rossenjoch, 63.
Rothorn, 144.
Rothorn, Finsteraar, 43.
„ , Oberaar, 56.
Rothorner, Lauteraar, 98.
Rothornliicke, Lauteraar, 88,
Rothornsattel, 42-3.
Rotjoch, Oberaar, 55.
Sagizahne. 190.
Battel, 185.
goheldegg Wetterhorn, 105.
gcheuohzerhorn, 49.
gcheuohzerjooh, 50.
Schneehorn (1)49, (2)134.
„ , Hinter, 128.
„, „ ,Vorder,134.
gohneewigea Horn, 134.
8oh6abUhlhorn(l)24, (2)103.
INDEX «9S
SchonenbUhlhorn (1) 101, (2)
103.
Schreckhorn, Gross, 83.
, ,, ,Klein, 78.
Schreckjoch, 82.
Schreeksattel, 87, 91.
Schreckshorn, 31, 83.
Sehrekhorn, 83.
Sehriokshorn, 83-4.
Sohwarzhorn, 32,
Seelen, die verdammten, 84.
Seite, Bose, 159.
Setzenhorn, 61.
Siedelhoraer, 66.
Simelbergh, 9.
Simmelisattel, 175.
Simmelistook, 174.
„ . „ , Klein, 173.
Spreitlaui, 170.
Stampfhorn, 167,
Steinlauenenhorn, 164.
Steinlauenenliicke, 163.
Steinlauinen, 157, 163.
Stelhhorn, 183.
Stock, 170.
Stockern gully, 179.
Sfcotzwang, 116.
Strahleck, die, 67, 71.
Strahlegg, Alte, 69.
Strahlegghomer, 67.
Strahlegg, Nasse, 68.
!> Pass, 71.
Strahlberg, 146, 155.
Strahlgrat, 19, 27.
Btrahlhorner (1) 19, (2) 63.
Studerhorn, 44.
Studerjoch, Ober, 43.
,, , Unter, 45.
Talsehyenhom, 64.
Talschyen Pass, 64.
Taubchen, die zwei weissen,
84.

196 INDEX
Tellengrat, 190.
Wachtlammstock, 169.
Tenhora, 172.
i Walcherhorn, 2.
Thah&tock, 61.
, Walcherhorner, 3.
Thierberg, 52.
Walliser Fiescherhornerj
Thlerbergjoch, 50. I 19.
Thiereggen, 170-1. I ,, Grlinhorner, 16.
Thiir, bey der, 183,165. Wandfluh, Obere, 77.
Tosenhorn, 187.
Wannehorn, Gross, 24.
Tosse, 187.
i „ , Klein, 25.
Tossenhorn, 187.
Wannehorn, name, 19.
Triflhhorn, 138.
Waaenhorn, 60.
Triftgrat, 25.
Weissgrat, 163.
Trifthorner, Hluter, 138. Weissnollen, 20.
„ ,Lauteraar,137-8. ,WeiteSattel, 185.
Trifthhorn, 138.
Wellborn, Gross, 103.
Triftstock, Vorder, 146. ! ,, , Unter or Vordef,
Tristen, 170.
I ldi.
Tristenstock, 171. 'Wellhornsattel, 107, 126.
Trugberg, 19. ,
Welligrat, 104.
Trutzihorn, 65.
Wetterhorner, 106.
Trtitzi Pass, 65.
Wetterhorn, Ilinter, 134.
„ , Saheidegg, 105.
Ulricherstock, 65. Wetterkessel, 187.
UlricU's Peak, 177. Wetterlimmi, 132-3.
Unteraarjoch, 43.
Wettersattel, 108, 112-3,
Unterstocken, 170.
126.
Urbaeh Glacier, 136. 1 Wibenlug, 169.
Urbaobsattel, 185. jWybeLueg, 169.
Urbachthaler < Engelhorn,
179.
1
Zasenberghorn, 11.
Vieselierh6rner. See Fies- 1 Zesenberg, 8.
cherhurner.
Zesenberghorn, 3.
Vorderspitze, 176-7. , Zinkenstock, 63.
PrinM by MOKRIDOH & GIBB LIMITHU, Edinburgh

ARTHUR BEALE,
Lata JOHN BUCKINGHAM,
194- SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W.C.,
' IS THE ONLY MAKER OF THE CELEBRATED
ALPINE CLUB ROPE
WHICH IS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY EMPLOYED
BY THE LEADING MOUNTAINEERS or THE
TIME. THIS ROPE IS MADE OF THE BEST MANILLA HEMP,
AND IS MARKED BY A RED WORSTED THREAD TWISTED
WITH THE STRANDS (SEE THE REPORT OF THE SPFCIAL
COMMITTFE ON ROPES, ETC., IN VOL. t. HO. 7 OF THE
ALPINE JOURNAL), AND IT CAN BE OBTAINED
ONLY FROM THE MAKER—
ARTHUR BEALE,
Late JOHN BUCKINGHAM,
194 SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W.C.
Banart of fraudulent imitations.
By the Author of
"TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE."
(3rd Impression.)
Adventures on the
Roof of the World.
By Mrs. AUBREY LE BLOND.
With over 100 Illustrations.
Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net.
TV FISHER UNWIN, LONDON, E.C.

IWIR. T. FISHER UNWIN
J has issued Special'
Tourist Editions of the following
Histories;—
Florence.
Sicily.
Vepice.
Switzerland.
Bound in Baedeker bindings.
Profusely Illustrated, 6s. each.
You will thoroughly enjoy a Tour
through any of the above places if you
have read these standard Histories.
T. FISHER UNWIN, LONDON, E.C.

Alpiije Booths
By EDWARD WHYMPER.
THE BOOK FOR BOYS-Young and Old.
SCRAMBLES AMONGST THE ALPS
In the Years 1860-69. Including the History
of the First Ascent of the Matterhorn. By
EDWARD WHYMPER, Fellow and Patron's
Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society j
Hon. Member of the Geographical Society of
Paris, of the French, Swiss, and Italian Alpine
Clubs, etc. etc. The Fifth Edition, with 135
Illustrations and Maps. Medium 8vo, 15s. net.
"Whymper's 'Scrambles' stand unapproachable in Alpine
literature. "—Times. "
CHAMONIX AND MONT BLANC.
A Guide. By EDWARD WHYMPER. With 66
Illustrations and Map. Svo, 3s. net. The
Ninth Edition is now ready, thoroughly Revised
and brought up to date.
"A model of what such a work should be."—Graphic.
THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT AND
THE MATTERHORN.
A Guide. By EDWARD WHYMPER, With 78
Illustrations and Maps. 8vo, 3s. net. The
Eighth Edition is now ready, thoroughly Revised
and brought up to date.
"A capital piece of vitalised literary work . . • a masterpiece.
. . . From beginning to end it is full of human interest,
and coloured with the fearless spirit of adventure."—•Academy.
JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street, W.

^TOURISTS on ' the Continent
A cannot do better than ask
for' a List of the Volumes in
" UNWIN'S LIBRARY."
It contains the latest Novels of
the most popular English and
American Authors.
ON SALE IN ALL CONTINENTAL TOWNS.
BUDAPEST:
The City of the Magyars.
By T. Berkeley Smith.
With Coloured Frontispiece
and fully Illustrated,
Crown 8YO, BS. net.
GUIDE TO
SIENA:
History and Art.
By William Heywood
and Lucy Oloott.
Cloth, 6B. net.
T. FISHER UNWIN, LONDON. E.C,