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Constructing a Rain BarrelMore info at: tinyurl.com/2vuyusOptional stuff you might wantGutter Drain Add-OnDownspout diverterSpray PaintExterior SiliconeCaulkSome way to divert the rainwater intothe barrel. We cut our gutter drain afoot above barrel height and got anelbow with a bend that is not toosharp -- enough to point the waterinto the top of the barrel but notenough to give it a lot of sidewaysmomentum.These are becoming more widely available, but we haven't noticed any locally,so you might want to call around or look for one online. If you use one, let usknow how well it works, so we can share that information with our visitors.If bright blue doesn't fit your exterior decor, use a spray paint designed to beplastic-covering. To be on the safe side and have some from the same colorbatch on hand for future touch-ups, 2 cans is usually enough.In case you want to caulk around the fixtures on the inside. We have not foundthis necessary, except for the "alternate" overflow; threading the holes in theplastic barrel creates a secure seal.Assembly InstructionsChoose a place to work where you can easily clean up all the littleblue plastic shavings that will result.Mark off a little less than half the barrel top for cutting. Thissemicircle will eventually be removed, but first let's drill a fewpractice holes in that half with the 15/16" bit. Trust me, you'll be gladyou did. There's a certain technique to using a Forstner bit on plasticto prevent it from binding -- you have to pre-drill a small starter holeand waggle from side to side as you drill. With a spade bit, you needto press down hard right at the end or else it may buck as it breaksthrough, chewing an extra chunk out of the edge of your nice neathole. The voice of experience speaks. You might also try stopping justbefore it breaks through and pushing the rest out with a screwdriver.Keep the drill at an exact right angle to the surface.Next, practice threading a few holes with the pipe tap. (For analternate design that doesn't need threaded holes see the descriptionnear the bottom of the FAQs page.) It's important to keep the tapexactly lined up with the direction of the hole (i.e. also at a right angle to the surface). If your threadsare at an angle, your fittings will not screw in snugly and are more likely to leak. Try using twocrescent wrenches pointing opposite to each other, to turn it without pushing it out of line.Page 4 of 6© 2005 Rebecca Chesin

Constructing a Rain BarrelMore info at: tinyurl.com/2vuyusUse a small-toothed blade to cut out the semicircle. Wear eyeprotection! The idea is to remove enough material to make it possibleto get at the inside for cleaning, but leaving enough to support theshape of the barrel. Note also that a small opening is more likely to getcovered with leaves and debris, causing spillover. The barrel materialgets pretty thick near the edges, so you will find it easiest if you stayan inch or so from the edge. I've found it works pretty well if I rest oneside of the saw's "foot" on the rim of the barrel and try to keep it level-- don't rest the other side of the foot on the barrel surface, whichwould make the blade slant toward the outside and into thickermaterial.Use a blade to clean up the plastic burrs from the edges of this hole.Now is the time to figure out where you're going to put this barrel. Choose the locations for theoverflow, faucet hole and connection to a second barrel (if any) and mark this information on thebarrel. Keep track of which barrel goes where if you are making more than one.Cut a 1-7/8" hole near the top for the overflow (2-1/4 if using the right-angle fitting). It won't be awatertight seal, but make sure it's just large enough to fit the "fitting" through. Make sure of this beforeyou cut it, since it's very hard to slightly enlarge a large hole and keep it round. Decreasing the holesize is even more difficult. You may want cut a practice hole in your scrap piece.Again, note that the barrel material is thick near the top, and you may have trouble getting a snug fit ifyou make the hole too high. The right-angle overflow can be installed higher, since it doesn't haveanything screwed onto it on the inside.Drill and thread a hole to screw the faucet into.Put the big washer on the faucet (i.e. the washer will end up on theoutside of the barrel), and screw it in carefully. Brass is a lot harder thanplastic, so if you don't start it right you will tear up the threads. Turn itcounterclockwise first, until the threads match and it drops into position;then turn clockwise. Try to make the faucet end up pointing sideways soit's easy to hook up a hose. Secure the faucet on the inside with the largenut or pipe coupling. The washer and nut together strengthen the barrelaround the faucet area and keep the faucet from moving relative to theplastic, which we think will ease the strain on the threads of turning thefaucet on and off.Note: if you can't get a pipe tap or just prefer not to do it, I suppose you can use a smooth hole, withnuts and rubber washers and caulk to prevent leaks. However, the threading technique has been very,very good to me. Our barrels are three years old, have suffered freezing of the contents, and so far haveno leaks.Tie the screen on top with the rope -- the barrel has a narrow point near the top so the rope can be snugthere. The screen has three purposes:Page 5 of 6© 2005 Rebecca Chesin