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BooTENDS TnRoITIoNAL SuurTERs STEp TooI Box ... - Wood Tools

BooTENDS TnRoITIoNAL SuurTERs STEp TooI Box ... - Wood Tools

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Next, locate the wall studsaround the room using a studlocator or the hammer and nailprocedure. In this case, however,you won't have to snap chalk lines.But do draw a line about 8rr long atthe top of the wall to identify everystud location. Mark these lineswith an "S," for stud.Use T-braces to support the drywall used forcovering the original ceiling. Drive screwsevery 12", making sure to hithe joists.Before going any further, take alook at your original ceiling. If it's inbad shape, which was the case inmy dining room, simply cover theold drS,nvall or plaster with 3/srr drywall.There is no need to tear outthe old ceiling unless it has let loosefrom the joists, or the joists themselvesare in bad condition.Screwing up new dry'wall shouldsecure the original ceiling to thejoists (Figure 3). It also offers afringe benefit - the rows ofscrewheads conspicuously identifuthe joist locations.Moking the First StepTo make a coffered ceiling likemine, begin by snapping morechalk layout lines. Measure out191/ztt from each wall and snap aline. Then snap another line 311/2"from each wall. You can see wherethis is going by looking at theCeiling Cross Section on page 27.Now you can mount the framinglumber to the ceiling. I used constructionadhesive on all the framing,and 3rr drywall screws wherevera piece crossed a joist or stud.For any frame pieces that do notcross the joists or wall studs, you'Ilwant to use toggle bolts instead ofscrews to ensure a strong installation(see Installing Toggle Bolts).First mount 2rr x 4rrs to the wallsaround the room so they butt tightlyagainst the ceiling (Figure 4).Next. cut 2rr x 4rrs for the fulllength of the ceiling and installthem flush with the chalk line yousnapped l9r/z't from the wall(Figure 4 again). Cut more 2rr x 4rrsto fit between the lumber you justmounted and install them flush withthe other two chalk lines at 191/z'r.Follow the same procedure forinstalling lumber at the 311,/zrr lines,only this time use 2r r 2ts.Be sure to consider all the locationsthat dr1'wall joints will occur,and install additional 2n x 2r lumberat these points. I call thesepieces support bridges. Also, thewidest step in my ceiling is 18rr,which is about the maximum spanyou can expect from l/zrr-thickdry.wall without sagging. If yoursteps get any wider than this, besure to add extra supports at themiddle of the span.Once the initial framework is inplace you can begin cutting andinstalling the drywall for step one(Figure 5). As you're holding eachpiece of drywall in position, alwaysalign one edge with the edge of the2r x 2rs atthe 3lt /ztt line. These arethe edges that will remain exposedon your completed ceiling.Mount the framing lumber to the ceilingand walls with construction adhesive and3" drywall screws or toggle bolts.Installing Toggle BoltsScrew drywall to the first step frame. Also,be sure to add drywall to any supportbridges on the ceiling for the second step.To install the toggle bolts, firstdrill counterbored pilot holesevery 2-ft. in the frame pieces.Make sure the counterbores aredeep enough for the bolts toreach through the ceiling. Next,position the frame pieces on theceiling and mark thepilot hole locations.Drill r/ztt pilot holes inthe ceiling large enoughfor the folded toggles topass through. Spread constructionadhesive on theframing lumber, then slip thebolts into the pilot holes. Spin thetoggles onto the bolts, and securethe assemblies to the ceiling./a" Washer'Workbench t ]une 1997 29

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