Tailored Jacket withStand-up CollarThis style has: A large, straight stand-up collar Dividing seams on front and back Yoke seam at bust height Yoke seam on sleeves Bound buttonholesFit informationo Cut-out neck base for the collaro Short, tailored shapeFabric recommendationso Denimo Woollen fabricso Gabardineo Raw silk, etc.
Bottom sections of pattern pieces including dartsMark lengthways lines on the bottom part of the front and back sections, approx. in thecentre of the pattern pieces.Draw in a dart 3-4 cm deep in total to the left and right of the lengthways lines,beginning at the yoke seams and tapering off approx. 8 cm above the hemline.Neckline curvePosition front and back sections so that they meet up at the shoulder seams.Mark in front curve from the centre-front up to the shoulder seam, beginning betweenthe first and second button markings and ending approx. at the top third of the shoulder.Mark in back neckline curve from the shoulder towards the centre-front, ending about4cm below the neck base of the centre-front.Print out pattern piecesPosition, save and print out pattern pieces.Print out pocket bags individually on DIN A4 on the basis of the ¾-length coat.
Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand.Before cutting out, check the fit of the reshaped front and back sections. Check dartdepths and redefined cross lines where applicable.Cut out pattern piecesCut out sleeve, front and back sections.Separate front section at the cross marking and the dart lines. Add on missing seamallowances and check markings.Separate back section at the cross marking and the dart lines. Add on missing seamallowances and check markings.For the pocket openings, draw in cross markings at the side seams of the front andback sections at the desired height.Separate sleeve at the cross marking and add on seam allowance.Slash lower sleeve section in the centre and flare approx. 4.5 cm. Place paperunderneath.Cut out pocket bag and reduce by the seam allowance.FacingsBefore cutting out, increase the front facing width to 9cm and widen facing by 5cm atthe shoulder, as per the illustration. Next, match the neckline curve to the front section.Add on 1.6cm seam allowance.
PreparationLay out paper pattern pieces on fabric as per cutting-layout illustration. Transfer allmarkings to the fabric after the pieces have been cut out.Sewing instructionsPreparationsInterface collar and facings.Mark in buttonhole placementSince a buttonhole is worked into the cross seam of the yoke, the buttonhole sizeshould be defined in advance and marked precisely with darning thread on the frontjacket and facing sections. Marking the centre-front Marking the buttonhole length, beginning 2mm before the centre-front and workingtowards the side seamButtonhole size = Button diameter plus 2mm. Marking the width of the welt, about 7mm in total.Next, transfer the button layout onto the front facing. Important: The buttonholemarkings on the facing must match up precisely with the buttonholes on the jacket frontin terms of size and placement.CenterFront
Tip: If the jacket is sewn without a lining, the seam allowances can be neatenedbeforehand or edged with bias binding.FrontWith right sides facing, sew together front and side-front sections.Press seams towards the side seam and topstitch if wished.With right sides facing, sew together front yoke and front sections, thoroughly bartackingthe seam on the right-front section before and after the buttonhole marking. Anopening remains for the buttonhole.Clip the seam allowance of the bottom-front section about 2cm before the beginning ofthe buttonhole. Press centre-front part of seam allowance apart; press remainder ofseam allowance towards the yoke.Topstitch yokes if desired.BackWith right sides facing in each case, sew together centre-back and side-back sectionsaccording to the markings. Press seams towards side seam and topstitch.Sew back yoke to back section with right sides facing. Press seam allowance towardsyoke and topstitch.Shoulders and under collarClose shoulder seams. Press seams apart.Sew the under collar to the neck base with right sides facing, as per the markings.
SleeveGather sleeve head.Sew together sleeve seam with right sides facing and press apart. Fold and presssleeve hem. Pin or baste in place.Insert sleevePull the gathering threads in the sleeve heads until the sleeves fit in the armholesaccording to the markings. Trim seams and remove gathering threads.Sew in shoulder pads.Before the lining is cut out, the shoulder width of the lining should be checked andadjusted if necessary.Sew all pattern pieces together. Trim seams to 1cm and press. Gather sleeve heads.Sew together sleeve seams; trim and press apart.Insert sleeves into armholes as per markings; trim seams to 1cm and press.Sew lining to jacket facing right sides together.Stitch together jacket hem and lining hem from the facing side in each case to approx.10cm short of the centre-back. This will leave a 20cm-long opening in the centre-back.With right sides facing, stitch together jacket sleeve with lining and turn through the hemopening.Secure sleeve head to shoulder pad and to seam allowance on forearm with a fewstitches.Finish sewing hem.Sew on buttons.Further detailed information can be found in your My Label program atHelp> Sewing Techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on the proper way tosew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings and much more. It also deals with basic sewingtechniques for newcomers.Tips and TricksButtons and buttonholesIf very large buttons are chosen, more underlap and overlay width must be added to thejacket in the centre-front.Buttonholes may also be sewn with the button-sew-on program.If buttonhole length exceeds 3 cm, buttonholes are sewn with the manual button-sew-onprogram.Fabric qualityWalking foot no. 50 is helpful with woollen or patterned fabrics.Visual effectCordonnet or decorative thread can be used to topstitch the seams.