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footwear news | noVeMBer 28, 2011 | VoluMe 67 no. 44Design starsWhat do Diego Dolcini, Anna Sui& Jessie Randall have in common?25TH ANNUAL ACHIEVEMENT AWARDSSuperpowerSManolo Blahnik joins 14 other hit-makersthat dazzled the industry this year with coolcollaborations, hot launches and bold businessmoves. See page 23 for all the big stories.Crew’s linesThe hot shoes makingbig waves at J. CrewFN1128P01.indd 11123201113270611/23/11 1:25 PM

CONTENTSLifetime Achievementwinner Manolo BlahnikJ. Crew’s shoe floorat the Fifth Avenuestore in New YorkINSIDER4 NotesMichael Atmore sounds off on the FootwearNews Achievement Award winners.FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS24 Lifetime Achievement AwardFor Manolo Blahnik, doing things his way hasput him in a league of his own.40 Icon Award for Social ImpactFor provocative brand man Kenneth Cole, themost important work is making the world better.11 Up FrontJ. Crew puts shoes in the spotlight.14 FN SpyBargain shoes for “Two Broke Girls” ... Timberlandcomes together with Ringo Starr.16 Top StoriesBrown, Collective move ahead with restructuring... Genesco posts winning results.18 Top StoriesShop Talk: Crocs’ retail bite and Dr. Scholl’snew concept.20 Top StoriesShaq shoots big with a new footwear strategy.30 Company of the YearSmart acquisitions and savvy partnershipsmade 2011 the year of Steve Madden.34 Designer of the YearNicholas Kirkwood’s limitless creativity is winninghim fans and growing his business.36 Retailer of the YearOn the small screen and beyond, HSN hasbecome one of the most desirable places tosell footwear.38 Independent Retailer of the YearRon White is taking his eye for stylish comfortbeyond his Canadian stores, into the U.S. andinto wholesale.42 Brand of the YearVince Camuto grew his line and launched aretail invasion this year.44 Brand of the YearFanatical followers and product extensionshave taken Ugg to a major sales milestone.46 Launch of the YearB Brian Atwood is introducing the designer’ssignature sexy heels to shoppers and fuelingserious heat at retail.48 Launch of the YearÜber-stylist Rachel Zoe took on the designerrole this year with a shoe line that’s celebratedby starlets and style-seeking shoppers.PHOTOS: J. Crew: rOberT miTra; blaHnik: STuarT COnwayFN1128PC2,02.indd 61123201113433811/23/11 1:42 PM

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CONTENTSDesignerJessie RandallLaunch of the Yearwinner Rachel ZoeDolce Vita’sNew YorkshowroomVivian InfantinoEmerging Talentwinner Burak Uyan50 Vivian Infantino Emerging TalentParisian architecture, Indonesian butterfliesand a deep abiding love of shoes add up tomagic for newcomer Burak Uyan.52 Marketer of the YearAdidas went all in for 2011 with a flashyglobal ad campaign that took the digitalworld by storm.54 Hall of FamePatricia Field’s passion for fashion has helpedshape the industry.56 Hall of FameIt’s a family affair for Jim and Larry Tarica,who have turned their parents’ small firm intoa serious industry player.MARKETPLACE70 Defining DiegoDesigner Diego Dolcini talks new luxurymarkets, balancing form with function and hislove for Keira Knightley.72 Good LifeLife is sweet for the founders of Dolce Vita.78 Piecing It TogetherLoeffler Randall’s Jessie Randall gets craftywith quilting — and footwear.88 Green GiantsThe color green is good for the high-end men’smarket this spring.92 Good TasteFrom Detroit to Positano, Italy, designer AnnaSui knows what she likes.96 Tabloid TotsFor children’s brands today, being seen on theright celebrity kid can mean big business.100 Packing HeatSneaker shop hotspot Packer Shoes makesold-school kicks the new must-haves.FN PICK104 Next ChapterThe ultimate fashion stocking-stuffer this seasonwill be “Manolo Blahnik and the Tale of theElves & the Shoemaker.”On the cover: Photographed by Stuart ConwayPHOTOS: randall: CHriSTian GraTTan; dOlCe viTa: GeOrGe CHinSee; zOe: COurTeSy Of brand; uyan: dOminique maîTre2 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128PC2,02.indd 81123201113433811/23/11 1:42 PM

NOTESThe Big Two-FiveThis year’s Footwear News Achievement Awards mark a quarter-century of greatstyle, big success and the best stories in the business. BY MICHAEL ATMOREWe couldn’t have chosen a betteryear to celebrate our 25th.2011 saw the footwear industryfiring on all cylinders, fromhigh-end to low, designer toathletic and outdoor. At thequarter-century mark, the FNAAs celebrate abusiness that is more diverse and more importantto retail success than ever before. And as theyear comes to a close and stores across the globelaud the role shoes play on the selling floor, themarket has never been in a stronger position.The diversity is strikingly evident when you lookat this year’s winners. From the ground-breakingreinvention of HSN to the amazing launches ofmutual friends Rachel Zoe and Brian Atwood, thepowerful marketing of Adidas and the impressivecareers of Jim and Larry Tarica and Patricia Field,the winners’ circle is a heady brew of talent, perseveranceand business acumen.Our 25th anniversary also is marked by aspecial award for Kenneth Cole’s social activism,the success of Vince Camuto and Ugg, the artistryof Nicholas Kirkwood and the juggernaut that isSteve Madden. And this amazing year is cappedwith a salute to one of the industry’s biggest legends,Mr. Manolo Blahnik.ICON AWARD FOR SOCIAL IMPACT LikeManolo, Vince, Steve and others, Kenneth Coleis intrinsically linked with the FNAAs. It’s nosurprise, then, that Cole will receive the first IconAward for Social Impact for a career that has beenas much about giving back as it has been aboutselling product. Long before it was hip to marrycause-related marketing and merchandisingtechniques with traditional branding, Coledecided he wanted to speak for thosewho needed a voice in a powerful andattention-getting way.Manolo Blahnikpump from“Sex & the City”RETAILER OF THEYEAR Mindy Grossmanhas turned HSN —and the entire home-shopping category — on itsear as she defines and expands the parametersof the channel. Grossman and her talented teamare determined to reshape HSN into a modern,cutting-edge powerhouse that reaches beyondthe current demographic to engage the next generationof shoppers. Along the way, Grossman haskept shoes center stage.COMPANY OF THE YEAR Whenever anyoneasks me who is doing well in the business, SteveMadden’s name inevitably comes up. He andhis company have been incredibly proficient atchurning out trend-right product that connectswith a wide range of customers. This year, Maddenstarted to spend some of that hard-earnedequity, diversifying his company with smartacquisitions and high-wattage celebrity deals,showing that Madden is positioned for the longhaul with a wider platform and a far bigger reach.BRANDS OF THE YEAR Vince Camuto is anunstoppable force. He has created empires andturned Jessica Simpson into a major fashion star.Now Vince is the face of his own hot label. In a careerof firsts, he is on top of his game. Additionally,Ugg Australia is the brand that continues to defythe odds. For years, the cynics have said it will end.But it never does. In 2011, Ugg will reach the $1 billionmark by consistently growing its audience.DESIGNER OF THE YEAR Nicholas Kirkwoodhas been the “it” boy for a few years now, but in2011, the young designer started to lay down thetracks that will guide him in the next phase of hiscareer. With a new store in London, new collaborationsand a bigger team behind him, Kirkwoodis now ready to play on the global stage.MARKETER OF THE YEAR The athleticpowerhouses have plush marketing budgets withmultichannel reach. What they do with that poweris another story. The Adidas team has pushedthe messaging boundaries with attention-getting,well-crafted campaigns that are both memorableand effective.LAUNCHES OF THE YEAR Two great debuts,two great stories, two great talents and two greatfriends. In one of the most interesting fashiontwists, Rachel Zoe and Brian Atwood both set thebusiness on fire this year with excellent launchcollections. B Brian Atwood added momentumto Mr. Atwood’s designer credibility, while Ms.Zoe made the delicate leap from TV star and überstylist to full-fledged designer. What’s fascinatingfor those who know them is that the two havealways been each other’s biggest supporters. Thisis truly a case of friends sharing in success.INDEPENDENT RETAILER OF THE YEARRon White is a force of nature. Young, energeticand tirelessly promotional, White has builtawareness the old-fashioned way: by forgingrelationships that allow him to transcend hissmall-store roots.VIVIAN INFANTINO EMERGING TALENTYou may not have heard of Burak Uyan yet, butthat will soon change. Mr. Uyan’s creative talentshave been known to fashion insiders for a whilenow. This year, he is ready for his closeup.HALL OF FAME It is impossible to sum up theachievements of Patricia Field and Jim and LarryTarica. A lifetime of creative and strategic empirebuilding has resulted in a legacy of great fashionand career-defining business moves. Field isresponsible for making shoes and shoe designersinto pop idols at a time when the business neededa dose of star-making machinery. The Taricashave turned their love of shoes into a career ofstewardship that includes great business success,amazing philanthropic reach and a reputation assome of the nicest executives ever.LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD It isfitting that Manolo Blahnik is the recipient ofFN’s first Lifetime Achievement Award. Not onlydoes his brand mark its 40th anniversary nextyear, but the designer is once again reminding theworld of his awe-inspiring talent. Of course, Mr.Blahnik’s legendary story includes a lifetime ofmajor moments, from the beginnings of the modernluxury era to the “Sex & the City” years andthe rise of the star designer. Every step of the wayManolo has stuck to his design guns, stayed trueto his brand vision and his own sense of aestheticsregardless of what was happening in the worldaround him. Pure genius.ILLUSTRATION: LARA TOMLIN. PHOTO: COURTESY OF DESIGNER4 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

DVF CongratulatesDanny Schwartz of Schwartz & Benjaminfor Receiving the 2011 A.A. Bloom Award

FN Editorial dirEctorMichael atmoreNeil Weilheimer Executive EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design DirectorJocelyn Anderson Features Editor, High-End Men’sBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s, ComfortWayne Niemi Senior West Coast EditorEdwin M. Estrada Art DirectorRegina Smith Popp Senior Fashion EditorJennifer Ernst Beaudry Associate Editor, Athletic, OutdoorJennie Bell Production EditorJacquelyn Lewis Associate Editor, Women’sMichelle Tay Assistant Editor, News, FinancialKristen Henning Assistant Editor, Marketing, Juniors’Lauren DiLello Fashion AssistantGerald Flores Editorial AssistantErin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’sNicole Deaver, Alexa Rubinstein Editorial InternscorrESPoNdENtSSamantha Conti, Nina Jones LondonMiles Socha, Katya Foreman ParisLuisa Zargani, Alessandra Turra MilanAmanda Kaiser TokyoKristi Ellis Washington, D.C.Vicki M. Young Deputy Financial EditorEvan Clark Deputy Editor, BusinessAlexandra Steigrad Legal/Financial ReporterPHotoGraPHYErin FitzGerald Photo Studio Manager Robert Cohen Photo FacilitatorEileen Tsuji Photo CoordinatorJohn Aquino, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Thomas Iannaccone, Robert Mitra PhotographerscrEativE dirEctor, FaircHild FaSHioN GrouPNancy ButkusEditorial dirEctor, FaircHild FaSHioN GrouPPeter W. Kaplan6 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P06,08.indd 61122201120552511/22/11 8:54 PM

vicE PrESidENt & PubliSHErMarc bergeradvErtiSiNGSandi Mines Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorLauren Schor Sales Development DirectorMichele Goldenberg, Ariel Tensen Account ManagersGuglielmo Bava International Advertising DirectorGiulia Squeri European Account ManagerGomatie L. Sanichar Office ManagerTaylor Federici, Sarah Brown, Emanuela Altimani Advertising AssistantsMarKEtiNG/ProMotioNJanet Menaker Executive Marketing DirectorEmily Cortez Creative Services DirectorKristen Wildman Executive Director, Event MarketingDanielle McMurray Special Projects DirectorFabio Salles Creative DirectorJennifer Pincus Director, Integrated MarketingJulia Donahue Copy DirectorAnjali Virmani Associate Director, Integrated MarketingMarissa Hayes Senior Manager, Digital DevelopmentJamie Rudolph Manager, Event MarketingKristen Mooney Manager, Event MarketingAlissa Gross Associate Manager, Integrated MarketingDanielle K. Stewart Coordinator, Integrated MarketingLeigh Alcott Marketing CoordinatorProductioNGena Kelly Vice President, ManufacturingChris Wengiel Group Production DirectorRobyn Wixman Associate Production ManagerMarco A. Matos Technical Production ManagerMichael Wagner Senior Manager, Distribution OperationscoNSuMEr MarKEtiNGJim Rossi Marketing DirectorRichard Franz Consumer Marketing Sales DirectorbuSiNESS GrouPDevon Beemer Finance DirectorTanya Davis Business AnalystRon Wilson Director of European OperationsFaircHild FaSHioN MEdiaWill Schenck Chief Revenue OfficerSuzanne Reinhardt Vice President, Finance & OperationsDan Shar Vice President & General Manager, DigitalMelissa Brecher Vice President, Marketing & CommunicationsMichael Atmore Director, Brand DevelopmentDan Scheffey Director, Public RelationsPrESidENt & cEoGina Sandersto dial dEPtS. dirEct arEa codE 212Editorial: 630-3800 Display Advertising: 630-4880 Classified Advertising: 630-4610 Production: 630-4462Individual subscriptions and single copy sales: 800-360-1700 Editorial Reprints: SCOOP Reprint Source: 800-767-3263FaircHild oFFicESNew York 10017: 750 Third Ave., 8th Floor, 212-630-3800. Los Angeles 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., 12th Floor, 323-965-7332.Washington, D.C. 20036: 1730 Rhode Island Ave. N.W., Suite 603, 202-496-4975. Milan 20121: 2 Piazza Cavour, 011-39-02-760-06283.Paris 75008: 9 Rue Royale, 011-3314-451-1300.8 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P06,08.indd 81122201120554011/22/11 8:54 PM

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insiderUP FRONT × NEWSMAKERS × ON DEADliNECrew’sControlTom Mora, head of women’sdesign for J. Crew, soundsoff on taking the footwearbusiness to the next level.by lauren dilelloPHOTO: RObeRT MiTRaJ. Crew’s Fifth Avenuestore in New YorkAs it expands its vision ofAmericana globally, J. Crew ispushing shoes in a major way.“Footwear continues to bea big growth [category] for us,and we are extremely excited about thefuture,” said Tom Mora, head of women’sdesign for the retailer, adding thatthe company adopted a more aggressiveapproach to the category for fall.“We spoke loudly about [shoes] in thecatalog and online and created amazingsalons in many of our stores,” he said.J. Crew is making sure footwear hasprime placement as it expands globally.In August, the retailer bowed itsfirst international store in Toronto, a5,000-sq.-ft. space offering women’sclothing and accessories.The company also is ramping upits virtual presence across the globe.While the company already had a successfule-commerce site serving Japan,J. Crew recently launched online shopscatering to the U.K., German, Italianand French markets, and additionalrollouts are in the works.Mora, who was tapped for his currentposition in September after 10 years invarious roles at the firm, said he is lookingto fuel growth in footwear by makingit a standalone segment as opposed tobeing a companion piece to apparel.The J. Crew-branded footwear offer-NOVEMBER 28, 2011 | | 11FN1128P11,12.indd 111122201119145111/22/11 7:14 PM

INSIDERUP FRONT × J. CrewA spring ’12J. Crew styleing includes preppy-chic balletflats, riding boots, pumpsand evening sandals. Madealmost entirely in Italy, the collectionranges in price from $17for flip-flops to $450 for boots.The retailer also has becomeknown for its collaborations, with labels suchas Fratelli Rossetti, Minnetonka, Quoddy andothers.Sperry Top-Sider has had a longtime relationshipwith the retailer, appearing in its firstcatalog in 1983. “We offer the J. Crew consumeran opportunity to get a unique spin on Sperryproduct that they can’t find anywhere else,” saidCraig Reingold, president of Sperry Top-Sider.“J. Crew is a phenomenal retailer with tremendousinfluence in the marketplace, and we havea shared consumer base, so it’s a real win-winrelationship.”New Balance began working with the retailerlast year and said J. Crew is a strong fit for thebrand. “We felt that this partnership was a greatsynthesis of two great American brands workingtogether to offer a premium product to theclientele of J. Crew,” said Jennifer Lynch, seniorproduct manager with New Balance Lifestyle.While he declined to reveal the company’snext collaboration, Mora said there are excitingnew plans in the works.Here, the executive talks about the importanceof catalogs in cultivating the J. Crew image andthe benefits of being an approachable brand.How has the footwear category evolved sinceyou started at J. Crew?TM: We are constantly looking at where we wantto go with the shoes, but also where we havebeen already. [We have some] shoes from fouryears ago that are still as good as the day [welaunched them]. That’s an incredible thing, tobe able to go back and say, “That was beautiful.What [can we do with it] today? Do we tweakit a little bit or do we put it on a lower heel?”When we do something that’s special, it doesn’tever feel that it has an expiration date. And thatstands for all of our shoes, not just our balletflats or beautiful collection pieces.How important is the price-value relationship?TM: The shoes are really well-priced. [The collection]is almost all made in Italy, [so] that’s kind ofan amazing thing. A lot of people don’t actuallythink about the amount of manpower or timethat it takes to create the shoes. We have our Italianpeople come in and we fit all our shoes here.It’s an amazing process. It’s very old-school.What parts of the footwear design processintrigue you the most?TM: I love to focus on thereally small details of ashoe: the carve ofthe heel, the toebox, the last [and]all those things that makea shoe go from being not so great to being reallyexceptional. Obviously, we’re always concernedabout how it feels on the actual woman’s foot.We’re always making sure they feel as great asthey look.How do you balance the J. Crew offering withthe branded looks you sell?TM: If someone does something really well, wewant to get it from them rather than us [tryingto] do it. [When it comes to] a Sperry Top-Sider,why would you want to try to reinvent that? Wejust want to get it from the person who does itbest. There are so manybrands that are iconsthat we’ve all grown upwith as children, suchas Sperry, Tretorn orMinnetonka. When webecome obsessed withthings as a brand, wewant to share them withour customer.Sperry has the sametraditional feeling asJ. Crew, but New Balanceseemed like a bit ofa departure for acollaboration.TM: Overall, as a brand,we have many differentfacets. And there is thatcool girl who’s totallygoing to put New Balanceon with her skinnyJ. Crew pants and acashmere sweater or agreat piece of outerwearand look amazing. It’s allabout how you put it togetherand how you styleit. That’s why we havethe catalog to showcaseall the incredible, interestingstyling. We havepeople saying, “I wantto look exactly like this.”They look to J. Crew as aTom Mora is elevatingfootwear at J. Crewway to dress and tell them how to do it.Between the store, catalog and website, isthere one channel that works particularlywell for footwear at J. Crew?TM: It’s interesting because I would have saidthe catalog is much more important because itgives you an overall vision, but we’ve done sucha fantastic job of making online a dynamic visionof the brand as well. On the Web, you havethis constant updating of ideas and concepts.When you’re able to highlight a new product ina second, it is really fun and keeps customersengaged. It’s equally as important [as the catalog].The stores are obviously important as well.We really want to stand behind footwear andbuild these beautiful shops with footwear andaccessories boutiques, and the customer hasresponded so well to it. We’re making it a placewhere you can sit down and try on a shoe andreally see a broad assortment of the product.PHOTO: MORa: GeORGe cHinsee; sHOe: RObeRT MiTRa12 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P11,12.indd 121122201119145211/22/11 7:14 PM

INSIDERnewsmakers ×FN SpyFrugal FriendsTracey Gigi Field does her best to keep itreal on the set of Cbs’ “2 BrokeGirls.” and that’s no easy taskfor the costume designer,challenged with findingeconomically appropriatefootwear for thelead characters, whohappen to be a littlelight on the green.“the shoe choices forthe girls are based ontheir reality, and that’simportant,” fieldsaid. “max (played bykat Dennings) is poor, soall her shoes are economicchoices. she wears nothingbut vintage shoes she findsat thrift stores or Goodwill.With Caroline (Beth Behrs),Perez SaysPerez Hilton likes to call himselfa “sneaker-phene.” At the moment,the kicks-obsessed bloggersaid he is digging CreativeRecreation. “I worethese limited-edition LEDsneakers in the club,” hesaid. “Watching them light up ismagical.” Now, Hilton is tryinghis hand at making shoes as themost recent guest designer to jointhe Shoedazzle.com roster. Hecrafted a unisex studded sneakerand a stiletto for the site (allproceeds will be donated to theGay, Lesbian& StraightEducationNetwork).“I’ve beenwearing thesneaker a lot,and if I wasa woman,Hilton andI’d wear the his Shoedazzlestiletto, too,” sneakerhe quipped.So what’s Hiltonexcited about outsidethe shoe world? The releaseof “Breaking Dawn,” of course.“I don’t think it’s groundbreakingStarr StruckRingo Starr is coming togetherwith Timberland. Theformer Beatle, who has notsigned a piece of memorabiliafor more than three years, hasagreed to deck out 75 pairs ofmen’s City Six-Inch Earthkeepersboots. The special-editionstyles, which feature a colorfulStarr-designed peace sign onthe canvas panels, will beup for auction on eBayfrom Dec. 1 to Dec. 11. Allproceeds will go to Londonbasednonprofit WaterAid,a charity dedicated to providingclean water, hygieneand sanitation to developingcountries. It was the charitableaspect that clinched the partmostof her shoes are from her prior life, herrich life. she mostly wears Gucci, ChristianLouboutin and miu miu.” and shoes evenbecame a storyline for thesitcom when Caroline found apair of Brian atwood pumpsin a thrift shop for $8.(although, we have tosay, atwoods for $8,even in a thrift shop,seems more fictionthan fact.) nevertheless,Carolinebetter get usedto buying used,according to field. “she’sprobably going to wear thesame shoes for a while untilshe makes more money,”she said. “her tastes are sorefined, [and] i’m not sure wewill ever see her in anythingcheap.”Kat Denningsand Beth BehrsFNSpyor changing my life, but I expectto enjoy it like I enjoyed all theother [films],” he said. Meanwhile,Hilton also weighed in onpotential candidates forRegis Philbin’s replacementon “Live.” “HowardStern would be an interestingchoice,” he said. “Havinghim balance Kelly Ripa wouldbe awesome.”nership, according to the brand.“[WaterAid] is an organizationthat Ringo has supported in thepast through his Lotus Foundation,”said Margaret Morey-Reuner, senior manager forvalues marketing at Timberland.“We pickedWaterAidStarr andtogetherhis design[with Starr]becauseeveryone understandsitand its globalsignificance.We haveshared viewsin terms ofthe need toraise awarenessforsocialandenvironmental justice plans.”The boots, for which bidding willstart at $250, are the latest additionto Timberland’s “CanvasThat Cares” program, whichraises money for various nonprofitorganizations.Wedding MarchIs Manolo Blahnik a Twihard?The designer, known for his loveof movies, is having anothermajor on-screen moment: Hedreamed up the decadent weddingshoes for Bella Swan (playedby Kristen Stewart) in “BreakingDawn.” And according toBlahnik, seeing the film is firston his list of thingsBella Swan’sto do while in Newwedding shoeYork this week toreceive the FootwearNews LifetimeAchievementAward. Sohow didhe channelthe character? Blahnik said hefocused on creating the perfectpair of pumps to pair with Bella’sCarolina Herrera dress.SpottedRihanna may have had a wardrobemisstep. The songstressreportedly offended some viewerslast week when she appearedon the U.K. edition of “The XFactor.” Her shoes, which were acollaboration between designerAshish Gupta and British brandUnderground, were apparentlytoo X-rated even for the show,due to the profanity included onthe side. Jennifer Lopez, meanwhile,made more of a hit whenshe was spotted last week wearingGio Diev boots on the AmericanMusic Awards stage at the NokiaTheatre in Los Angeles.Tree TimeAfter five years creating a “ShoeTree” in support of Meals onWheels, Pedestrian Shops isgoing allout thisholidayseason.OwnerRichardPolk isagain participatingin the FestivalofTrees (tobe held indowntownPedestrian ShopShoe TreeBoulder, Colo., for the first time).After the festival, Polk’s tree,which is trimmed with $4,000worth of footwear, socks andhandbags, will turn into agiving tree: 35 pairs of theshoes are set to be raffled offto one lucky customer. “Ourvendors, including Clarks,Ugg and Dansko, have beenso helpful in this givingprocess,” Polk said. “Peoplecare about what’s going on intheir community, and seeingthis tree in the store gets theminvolved in helping out a goodcause.” —With contributions fromNicole Deaver, Wayne Niemi andAlexa RubinsteinGot tips for fn spy? Email kristen_henning@condenast.comphotos: 2 broke Girls: Courtesy of Cbs; perez: Courtesy of hannah ross; sneaker: Courtesy of hilton; starr and boot: Courtesy of timberland; blahnik shoe: Courtesy of neiman marCus; tree: Courtesy of pedestrian shops14 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P14.indd 141123201111180811/23/11 11:16 AM

INSIDERON DEADLINE × Top StoriesBrown Shoe Sharpens Refocus Teens ContinueBrown Shoe CEODiane Sullivanby michelle tayNEW YORK — BrownShoe Co.’s portfoliorealignment is scoringpoints with analysts.Steven Marotta,analyst at C.L. King& Associates, said,“They’re slicing offthe children’s business,which is agood movebecausethat’s aninherentlydifficultbusiness.It streamlinestheirfocus back onto [the contemporarybrands]. Accelerating store closuresis also a good thing becausethey’re taking costs out of the business.They’re not necessarily givinganything up from a competitivestandpoint.”Sterne Agee analyst Sam Poseragreed, saying, “Brown Shoe has toincrease the speed of what they’redoing. [The leadership] knows that.They just have a lot of balls in theair right now.”In a call with analysts, BrownShoe President, CEO and COODiane Sullivan said the companyplans to close 145 stores over thenext two years and will exit its children’swholesale business as part ofa strategic portfolio review. (Thatbusiness included licensed brandssuch as Marvel and Barbie.)But Sullivan still sees potentialin the kids’ business and is turningto BBC International to serveas children’s licensee for three ofits brands: Buster Brown, Avia andSam Edelman.Bob Campbell, founder andchairman of BBC, said the dealmakes a lot of sense for bothcompanies. “Brown can now concentrateon its women’s business,which is what it does best, while weuse our expertise in the children’smarket to grow these brands totheir full potential,” he said.Campbell is particularly bullishabout the addition of Sam Edelman(continued on page 103)Payless Battle Wages on at Collective Brandsby michelle tayNEW YORK — Collective BrandsInc. is finding the Payless Shoe-Source shopper wants to payeven less.The firm’s interim CEO, MichaelMassey, acknowledged last week effortswere under way to better servethe budget-conscious consumerdomestically, where Payless’ net andsame-store sales declined about 5percent in the third quarter.In a conference call with analysts,LuAnn Via, president and CEO ofPayless, said, “In the third quarter,we met [our customer’s] needs onprice-value with additional pricereductions. In the fourth quarter,we’ll continue to address price withmarkdowns. Beginning in 2012, wewill also address price on a morestrategic level.”The firm remains on track toshutter 475 Payless and Stride Ritedoors by the end of 2013, and costsassociated with the closures willtotal between $25 million and$30 million.Massey said, “We are strategicallyincurring short-term margin loss tosecure market share and unit scaleto deliver long-term profitability andreturn on invested capital. Whileoperating profit was clearly disappointing,Payless North Americaresults [provided] early signs that weare headed in the right direction andmaking progress in our turnaround.”PLG Wholesale, a traditionalbright spot for the firm, continuedto outperform, surging 27 percent to$180 million in the third quarter.Sales were led by Sperry Top-Sider,which had an excellent back-toschoolseason at retail, said GreggRibatt, president and CEO of PLG,while Saucony also saw continuedsuccess in the minimalist and lightweightcategory and strong growth ininternational markets.The firm also noted the searchfor a permanent CEO is ongoing, asis the review of strategic alternatives.Analysts said they continue tobelieve a likely outcome is the saleof one or more assets within thePLG group.Collective recorded a loss of$114.3 million, or $1.91 a share, inthe third quarter – versus a netincome of $47.6 million, or 75cents, in the same period a year ago.Net sales inched up 1.4 percent, to$894.4 million.Christopher Svezia, analyst atSusquehanna Financial, said, “Themagnitude of the miss was muchmore than expected and the pressureis expected to continue intothe fourth quarter. Looking to fiscal2012, the domestic turnaround willclearly be slower to develop than wehad originally thought.”Collective ended the quarter with$212.6 million in cash and $606 millionin debt.Driving Genescoby michelle tayNEW YORK — The Journeys Grouponce again fueled earnings growthat Genesco Inc. as its third quarterblasted estimates.“I would say they’re a little betterpositioned than most going forwardbecause they’re in a situationwhere kids are buying shoes insteadof clothes,” said Sterne Ageeanalyst Sam Poser.Mitch Kummetz, analyst at R.W.Baird & Co., agreed, noting, “Theirtarget demo is looking to spendwhat they have to spend. What elseis competing for their disposableincome? It’s consumer electronics,fast food and entertainment.Teens are responding to the strongtrends in footwear versus apparelwhere there is perhaps not as muchnewness.”Speaking to analysts on a conferencecall last week, Genesco President,Chairman and CEO RobertDennis said, “Schuh outperformedour internal projections duringthe third quarter. Total sales forthe quarter were $78 million. Weexpect this will only get better.”Despite the turmoil in Europe,the firm does not expect a significantimpact on Schuh’s sales.James Gulmi, SVP and CFO, said,“It’s a challenging environmentin the U.K., maybe a little more soright now in terms of consumerspending than it is here, but theyare cleaning up their act as a countrybetter than we are.”Genesco’s third-quarter netincome surged 54 percent to $26.1million, or $1.09 a share. Revenueincreased 33 percent to $616.5million, from $464.8 million,buoyed by a strong comparablestoresales increase of 12 percent,which was in turn driven by theJourneys Group’s comp increaseof 15 percent.Full-year EPS is expected tocome in between $3.64 and $3.69,which represents a 47 percent to 49percent increase over last year.photos: courtesy of companies16 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P16.indd 161123201111564211/23/11 11:56 AM

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR FELLOW HONOREESLIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARDManolo BlahnikDESIGNER OF THE YEARNicholas KirkwoodRETAILER OF THE YEARHSNINDEPENDENT RETAILER OF THE YEARRon White ShoesMARKETER OF THE YEARAdidasBRANDS OF THE YEARVince CamutoUggLAUNCH OF THE YEARB Brian AtwoodRachel ZoeVIVIAN INFANTINO EMERGING TALENTBurak UyanHALL OF FAMEPatricia FieldJim & Larry TaricaICON AWARD FOR SOCIAL IMPACTKenneth Cole

INSIDEROn deadline × Top StoriesDr. Scholl’s New ConceptWhen parent company Brown Shoe Co. founditself with some unused retail space in hightrafficshopping centers, Dr. Scholl’s execs sawan opportunity. earlier this month,the brand debuted its first threeretail stores, in Las Vegas; ellenton,fla.; and San marcos, Texas. “itwas a perfect way to test a new format,” saidmaureen mcCann, VP of wholesale marketingat Dr. Scholl’s Shoes. “The stores presenta unique opportunity to showcase a brandwith great dimension. nowhere else can youbring it all together as well as in your ownenvironment.” The stores, ranging in size from1,700 to 2,600 square feet, showcase sandals,casual shoes, boots and sport shoes for menand women. They also stock an assortmentof foot-care products. mcCann said it’s toosoon to offer a prognosis for the brand’s retailpotential, but execs will be studying the doorsclosely. “as soon as we better understand thevolume and profit potential of the stores, wewill plan a measured rollout into other centersacross north america,” she said.Crocs on the AttackCrocs recently placed a bigger bet on retail.The brand, which has 72 full-price stores,launched three new doors — at the mallof america in Bloomington, minn.; BartonCreek Square in austin, Texas; and Streets atSouthport in Durham, n.C. The stores rangein size from 1,500 to 3,000 square feet andare designed to be fun, innovative and easyto shop, said angie Callaway, senior directorof retail for the brand. “Just like a pair of Crocsshoes, the retail experience puts the fun intofunctional and discovers the extra in theShopTalkordinary,” she said. “The stores allow our brandto have a direct dialogue with our customers.”and that dialogue will soon be in manydifferent languages. Callaway said the brand ispreparing to test the retail concept in europeand asia starting in march of next year.Sebago DebutsLondon FlagshipSegabo is giving Londoners a taste of newengland fashion. The brand recently opened itsfirst door in London, a flagship at 78 regent St.The décor of the two-story, 1,600-sq.-ft. storedraws on the line’s new england heritage andnautical aesthetic with a yachtinspiredstaircase, portholes on thewalls and a wall wrap featuring aboating theme. The shop is said tooffer the widest assortment of Sebago productin the u.K. “The customer will be immersed ina truly authentic nautical, Sebago experience,”said CeO Gary malamet. “The store will allowSebago to feature its newest artisan collectionsand the filson collaboration, giving theconsumer full access to all things Sebago.”Pretty BallerinasPreps Second L.A. Doorfollowing the opening last summer of itsfirst West Coast store, in Beverly Hills, Calif.,Pretty Ballerinaswill bow itssecond locationon the left coastin Santa monicain January. andthat’s just thebeginning of amore aggressiveretail rollout.“Our aim was toopen in new york and Los angeles first, asthey are the most important cities for image,”said founder and Creative Director DavidBell. “We are about to open our second newyork store, and this will be our second Losangeles store. next, we are setting our sightson San francisco and Chicago [and] moreaffluent coastal towns.” The 93-year-oldbrand, known for its ballet flats and pumps,could also branch into wholesale soon. “We’realready in the process of expanding the mainproduction facility by 40 percent to preparefor fall ’12 orders,” Bell said. “We’ll probablylook for retailers toward spring ’13.”Send retail newS to:wayne_niemi@condenast.comREI Heads to Big Appleby jennifer ernst beaudryNEW YORK — REI is in a NewYork state of mind.The Kent, Wash.-based outdoorgiant soft-opened its latest store,in New York’s Soho neighborhood,last week. The three-level,35,000-sq.-ft. space in the PuckBuilding showcases the technicalfootwear, apparel and gear thathas made the retailer famous.Covering 17,000 square feet ofselling space and employing 150store associates, the store wasdesigned to evoke the building’soriginal functions: Giant flywheels, left over from the space’sdays as a printing press, getprominent display in the subcellarlevel where footwear will live,and wood and nails taken fromthe rebuild are used as shelvesand display pieces.The store’s grand opening isscheduled for Dec. 2.The debut marks not only theretailer’s first door in Manhattanbut also its fourth tristateareastore to open in the past sixmonths. “There is a huge marketfor authentic outdoor product inthe tristate area,” said Tim Spangler,SVP of retail for REI.According to Spangler, thecompany’s co-op membershiplist and sales from the websiteled them to see the market in theNew York as underdeveloped fortheir shopper.And that means maintainingREI’s core outdoor and gear focus,even in the heart of the city.According to store manager LesHatton, formerly of the retailer’sSanta Monica, Calif., shop, thenew location will not reduce itspercentage of tents, camp stovesand equipment to cater to a downtowncrowd. “It’s almost exactlythe same,” Hatton said. However,he added, the 500-SKU footwearmix, which accounts for roughly20 percent of REI’s store sales,has been adjusted slightly, withmore casual offerings and somecolor updates to “what we believedwas relevant” for the Manhattanmarket, Spangler said.While he declined to reveal salesprojections for the site, Spanglerdid say the company is optimisticabout the store’s potential —despite New York’s higher rents— and that it was designed for thehigh shopper volume required forurban stores.Since 2009, when REI openedits first tristate store, in EastHanover, N.J., the company hasadded locations in Paramus, aswell as in Norwalk, Conn., andYonkers and Carle Place in NewYork. But the Soho store is the“keystone,” according to AnneMaleady, retail director of thetristate area for REI.It’s a strategy vendors areapplauding. “REI is a leader inoutdoor retailing and a significantcustomer of Teva,” said Pete Worley,president of the brand, a divisionof Goleta, Calif.-based DeckersOutdoor Corp. “We’re excited tosee REI going into Soho and expectthat they’ll be very successful asmore and more urban consumersseek outdoor adventure.”Jim Zwiers, president of theOutdoor Group at Rockford,Mich.-based Wolverine WorldWide Inc., agreed: “When we lookout there, we see this concept ofthe outdoor athlete gaining in popularityand breadth of appeal, andcities are an important epicenter,”he said. “REI’s decision to move toa big-city focus with New York is anatural and savvy business moveon their part.”In New York, REI joins a flourishingoutdoor retail network.EMS operates a store in Soho, aswell as a location on the UpperWest Side that opened this summer.Outdoor- and athletic-marketstalwart Paragon Sports is ashort walk uptown from Soho, andindependent retailer Tent & Trailsis farther downtown. Soho also ishome to brand stores for Patagonia,The North Face and others.PHOTOS: COurTeSy Of COmPanieS18 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P18.indd 181122201120245011/22/11 8:24 PM

www.palladiumboots.com

INSIDEROn deadline × Top StoriesShaq Shoots for Shoe Comebackby gerald floresNEW YORK — Shaquille O’Neal isreconnecting with an old teammateto get back in the footwear game.The player, who retired this pastJune, has brought back former brandmanager Mary Gleason to help revamphis Shaq-branded footwear andapparel. “She’s the LeBron James ofmy shoe team,” O’Neal said of Gleason,president of Shaq and Dunkman(Gleason also manages SchottensteinLuxury Group brands Judith Leiber,Adrienne Vittadini and Taryn Rose).“I don’t have the know-how to build abrand, but Mary has the capabilitiesto do it.”It was Gleason who originallyhelped O’Neal launch his valuechannellines in 1999 with Starter.Nike acquired the rights to Shaq andDunkman when it purchased Starterand Gleason’s Group 3 Design brandmanagement company in 2004,where she continued to oversee thelabels until the end of 2005.When Starter was sold to IconixBrand Group Inc. in 2007, O’Nealdecided to take the brands in-house,under his company Mine O’Mine. Bythe time O’Neal became the masterlicensee, the lines had gone throughsome hard times. “It went from beingabout a $170 million a year businessin 2005 to, this year, only about $30million,” Gleason said. “So it’s definitelyin a rebuilding stage.”ACI International CEO StevenJackson, Shaq and Dunkman’sfootwear licensee, said Gleason’smarketing sense and relationshipwith retailers is what the brand wasmissing the past few years. “Mary’splayed such an important role interms of how the brand has grown,and now that she’s back, it will be reenergized.”Gleason said her first priority wasto launch a website to showcaseO’Neal’s personality as well as hisproducts. The site, Shaq.com, wentlive this month and merges O’Neal’sblog and personal social mediahandles with e-commerce.His spring ’12 line of sneakers willdebut on the Web in February andwill make up almost 80 percent ofall products sold on the site. Retailprices for footwear range from $20to $30 for children’s, and $25 to $40for men’s.With an already-strong socialmedia following, O’Neal is lookingto leverage his more than 4 millionTwitter followers and 2 million-plusFacebook fans. He added that thesesocial platforms give his namesakebrand new avenues to reachconsumers that it didn’t have before.O’Neal, who announced his retirementfrom the NBA via Twitter andthe mobile video platform Tout,said he also plans to use the mediumsagain to announce 20 jobopenings with his brand.In addition to being distributedon the website, the Shaq-brandedfootwear also will be sold at retailerssuch as JCPenney, Academy, Big 5Sporting Goods, Famous Footwearand Shoe Show.Tim Chase, children’s shoebuyer for Kannapolis, N.C.-basedShoe Show, said the brand’svalue proposition and Shaq’sstrong identity are its biggeststrengths. “There are only a few playerswho’ve really been able to turnthe dial as far as driving sales, andShaq’s had longevity.It looks likehe’ll be able tohave an impacteven after hisretirement.”Mary Gleasonand ShaquilleO’NealEuropean Doors Get Skittishby fn staffLONDON — Economic volatilityand growing concerns over a debtcrisis in Europe have many retailersfeeling anxious about business.As a result, storeowners in keycities including London, Milan andParis are focused on stocking highquality,multifunction items.“The more expensive pieces thatcan be worn for every day are sellingwell,” said Pam Brady, accessoriesbuyer for Browns in London. “Thekey is adapting our buying skills forprecarious economic times.”As an example, Brady said herboutique has bought LaurenceDacade’s best-selling Merli boot inplain leather, studded-suede andleopard-print styles.“It’s sensible, yet fashion forward,”Brady said.On the other end of the spectrum,Browns also is finding success withmore unique pieces.“We recently sold a crocodilehandbag by Alexa Wagner for 7,500pounds [or $11,728 at currentexchange] to a woman who was justbrowsing on a Saturday,” Brady said.In Paris, Patrick Melloul, owner ofmultibrand store Biondini, said therocky economic climate has forcedhim to be more selective, too.“Consumers are still spending, butthey’re sticking to the establishedbrands rather than taking risks onlabels they might not know so well,”said Melloul, adding that he haseliminated “tons of suppliers” whosecreations served more as prettyshowpieces than anything else.Instead, he is concentrating onproven luxury players like YvesSaint Laurent, Azzedine Alaïa, Lanvinand Giuseppe Zanotti.Elsewhere in Paris, Elina Halimi,buying director for the women’sbranch of multibrand store Kabuki,said she has been a lot more prudentabout introducing new lines.Nicholas Kirkwood is among thefew new names due to be added forspring. The store also has boughtfrom Pierre Hardy’s collection afterfour seasons of not working with thedesigner.And in Milan, La Rinascente isgiving prime placement to the bigplayers, including Gucci, JimmyChoo, Sergio Rossi and SalvatoreFerragamo, among others.“We are registering big flows ofpeople on the footwear floor, and wecan say shoes represent one of thereasons shoppers enter our building,”said Giulia Pizzato, women’sbuying director, who added that thecategory is holding up well, despitethe recession.“We are so confident in this divisionwe are planning to double thespace for shoes in 2012,” Pizzato said.More immediately, retailers areprepping for the holiday seasonwith special in-store initiatives toentice consumers.At Selfridges in London, the storehas asked several footwear designersto create miniature replicas ofkey pieces from their collections.The collectibles are available forpurchase in the store and include apintsize version of Charlotte Olympia’sPaloma platform shoe and aminiature take of Fendi’s broguestyleheels. — With contributionsfrom Katya Foreman, Nina Jonesand Alessandra TurraPHoto: RoBERt MItRAXinreinstfoceadtiboinstsaaloffWexSa20 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P20.indd 201122201120540911/22/11 8:53 PM

FN ACHIEVEMENTAWARDS 2011CLASSLEADERS2011 marks the 25th year of the Footwear News AchievementAwards with a group of talented winners that stand apart fromthe rest, thanks to robust sales, innovative product and cuttingedgeideas. Read on for the stories behind 15 of the industry’s best.PHOTOS: KIRKWOOD: STUART CONWAY; TARICAS, MADDEN/OLSENS: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES; CATRALL/DAVIS/FIELD: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF COMPANIESNOVEMBER 28, 2011 | | 23

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011LIFETIMEACHIEVEMENTMASTERMINDWith his incredible vision andinsatiable creativity, ManoloBlahnik continues to define amarket he virtually created.BY KATIE ABELOn July 5, 1973, Footwear News featureda sexy Manolo Blahnik highheelsandal on page one, calling it“the most talked-about shoe in London.”It was the fledgling designer’sfirst big splash in this publication.Nearly four decades and manyFN covers later, the now-fashion legend still has everybodytalking.“I’ve never really thought about my success, but I guessit’s true. I have been going for a while,” said Blahnik, who isknown for his humility as much as for his humor. “Suddenly,people seem to really like my shoes again. But you know,those furniture shoes were fashionable for three or fouryears. I did platforms in the 1970s, so that wasn’t new to me.I’ve never followed trends or gotten into the frenzy of doingthe ‘right’ shoes.”Blahnik has been doing it his own way since the beginning.Fiercely creative and constantly curious, the designerhas built a world-famous brand by sticking to a surprisinglysimple formula: designing feminine, elegant, high-qualityManolo Blahnik,photographed for FNthis fall in LondonPHOTO: STUART CONWAY24 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

HSN IS FOOTWEAR NEWS’RETAILER OF THE YEAR!We are honored by this wonderful distinction.We thank Footwear News for this recognitionand congratulate all of this year’s winners.

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011LIFETIMEACHIEVEMENTThe designerin 1974footwear season after season. He hasalways been much more concernedabout crafting the perfect shoe thancourting the “it” celebrity.“It’s about the love affair betweenManolo and his shoes. That’s neverchanged,” said longtime businesspartner George Malkemus, presidentof Manolo Blahnik USA.The designer, 68, still createsevery single shoe himself. He’s anardent supporter of made-in-Italyand spends the bulk of his time athis factories there, overseeing theproduction of the label’s handmadedesigns.“I’m never satisfied. I always findsomething wrong, and I’m really difficultto work with in that respect,”said Blahnik, who noted that eventhe smallest flaws still send him intoa tailspin. “Just today, I was lookingat a shoe [here in London], and therewas a fault, so I called the factory andtold them to do it again.”While he’s a self-admitted perfectionistabout his designs, Blahnikdoesn’t get consumed by the detailsof the business. He’s never beeninterested in tracking sales orhatching expansion plans — and he’srefreshingly unaffected by moneyand fame. He often shuns the spotlightand self-promotion, preferringto focus on what reallymatters to him.“I love threethings: reading,doingmy shoesand seeingmovies.Those are thethings I could neverA T-strap pumpfor spring ’12I love threethings:reading, doingmy shoes andseeing movies.Those arethe things Icould neverdo without,never getbored with.”— Manolo Blahnikdo without, never getbored with,” Blahniksaid a few weeks ago.He excitedly discussedhis silent-movie obsessionand ticked off his current readinglist, which includes a new bookabout Diana Vreeland, the renownedVogue editor who encouragedBlahnik to become a shoe designerafter admiring his unique sketchesfor the first time in 1970.Forty-one years havepassed since that fatefulmeeting with Vreeland,but Blahnik said it oftenfeels like he just started.“I’ve never been ableto capture the essenceof time. I really enjoywhat I do, so what’sthe point ofsayinghowPHOTOS: BLAHNIK: GETTY IMAGES; SHOE: COURTESY OF DESIGNERMANOLO ON...His first design job:“Growing up [in the Canary Islands], I grabbedany animal walking around and made themshoes with silver foil. I had a fox terrier andmade shoes for him. I made them for lizards.I’ve always had a fixation with limbs.”His alternate career choice:“My mother wanted me to be a writer. Or Iwould be directing movies or dressing them up.But it’s too late for that now. Maybe later, I cando my memoirs. But that would be so tiring!”Some of his favorite ladies:“Paloma Picasso, Bianca Jagger, Tina Chow,Loulou de la Falaise. They’re ‘my time’ girls. Iwas so sad [when Loulou died this month].She used to come into the store and try thingson. I remember going to her wedding, too. Wehad such an amazing time.”His happiest moment:“I’ve had millions of them. The greatest fun momentof my life was when Juan Carlos I, the kingof Spain, gave me a wonderful award in 2002. Iwent to the palace, and it was great fun.”The best film of all time:“My favorite is ‘The Leopard’ with Burt Lancasterand Claudia Cardinale. It was so beautifullydone. I have a list going of many otherfavorites. I love Italian movies, French movies,Spanish movies. You know what I really lovenow? Silent movies.”26 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011LIFETIMEACHIEVEMENTlong I’ve been doing it?”While his vision has remainedunchanged, Blahnik has noticed adramatic shift in the luxury-footwearbusiness. It’s never been hotter, heexplained, and everyone seems towant a piece of the action. But thelandscape was much different whenhe first arrived on the scene.“In many ways, Manolo started thedesigner shoe business. That’s verypowerful,” said Karen Katz, presidentand CEO of The Neiman MarcusGroup. “He set a new standard andforced the design and aesthetic ofshoes to a new place. And for the past20 years or so, everybody has beenrushing to catch up to him. It took aBlahnik in Londonthis fallcouple of decades for people to recognizethat this was a business. Theycould just design shoes and not havea big house of names. Manolo gavethem the courage to do that.”“When you think about all theNicholas Kirkwoods and ChristianLouboutins and all these brands,who do you think opened the doorfor all of them?” added Ron Frasch,president and chief merchandisingofficer at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Whoshowed them how to put their shoeson the runways? Who paved the waywith a celebrity following? That wasall Manolo.”Indeed, Blahnik helped get shoesin the spotlight long before they wereconsidered must-have items.“I loved what Manolo was doingso much that I asked him to work onshoes with me for the runway [in the1980s],” said Calvin Klein, one of themany major ready-to-wear designersBlahnik has worked with over theyears. “I would show him sketchesand fabrics and colors, and he alwayscreated shoes that caught the essenceof the clothes. He was fantastic at doingthat. We just worked together fora few seasons, but we had a lot of fun.The shoes were perfection.”Nothing was more perfect thanBlahnik’s star turn in “Sex & theCity,” which helped catapult him tosuperstar status in the Americanmarket. While the designer said henever really understood all the hype,he continues to benefit from thebuzz surrounding the series — whichis attracting a new, younger audiencewith its television reruns and therecent films.A fan recently tweeted: “Would Itrade my firstborn for the ManoloBlahnik [blue-satin bejeweledpumps] from the first ‘Sex & the City’movie? I’ll have to see what the childlooks like.”That cult consumer following hashelped Blahnik become a celebrityhimself over the years. He often tellsthe story of the female fan who askedhim to sign her leg and then made theinscription permanent with a tattoo.It’s just one indicator of Blahnik’sstaying power.“My son asked me the other dayif I worked for Manolo Blahnik ...because I have so many pairs of hisshoes,” said Daniella Vitale, chiefmerchant and EVP at Barneys NewYork. “From what other designerwould you remember buying yourvery first pair — 21 years ago, and Istill have them — and still be buyingthem today? I admire Manolo fornever deviating from who he is. He’s alegend himself, but I don’t think anyother collection of shoes can tell astory quite like his.”Blahnik, who has now designedan astonishing 30,000 shoes, agreed,and he seems to get more energizedabout his work with the arrival ofevery new season. “Oh, the [fall ’12]collection is so beautiful,” he saidin his almost-musical voice. “I’m solucky. I just love what I do!”...ONMANOLO“Manolo and I became fast friends, andthat friendship has just gotten strongerover the years. It can be like a verystrange marriage, and it’s volatile attimes. But we’re always very honest witheach other. ... I think Manolo is often misunderstood.He can be very flamboyantand boisterous, but [underneath], he’sthis shy, sensitive guy. His greatest virtueis his humility. I’ve always applauded himfor that.”— George Malkemus“He’s just a dream. Manolo has lifted somany women out of the doldrums andgiven them glamour and glory and shoesthat don’t hurt. He brings everything tothe party. He’s just a fantastic humanbeing with a great sense of humor.”— Bette Midler“On my list of creative geniuses, Manolois at the top. He broke the mold. I’venever seen a mind work like that before.He always has a thirst [to discoversomething new]. We were taking a walkthrough the shop recently, and he wasbouncing up and down, pointing atthings and asking, ‘What’s this, what’sthat?’ He’s never lost that sense ofcuriosity.”— Ed Burstell, managing director,Liberty“I’ve been an avid collector of Manolo’sshoes since I first slipped my foot intoone of his exquisite creations. I was overthe moon when he agreed to design mywedding shoes.”— Kate Moss“Manolo is just one of those beautifulpeople who’s a joy to be around. When‘Sex & the City’ started, I knew thatSarah Jessica [Parker] liked Manolo’sshoes, so we went to him and got abunch. We both loved working with him.He was there from the beginning of theseries, when no one knew how popularthe show was going to be.”— Patricia FieldWith GeorgeMalkemus in 2005PHOTOS: PORTRAIT: STUART CONWAY; BLAHNIK/MALKEMUS: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES28 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011COMPANY OFTHE YEARMADDEN’SMOMENTUMWith bold acquisitions and big celebritydeals, Steve Madden was on a roll in 2011.BY JACQUELYN LEWISThe Canal Streetstore in New YorkPHOTOS: COURTESY OF STEVE MADDEN (5)Steven Madden Ltd. became theultimate corporate multitaskerthis year.The company acquired powerhousebusinesses, inked lucrativelicensing deals and pulled inmajor star power for its brandswhile expanding its retail presence and upping itsfinancial game.But through it all, founder Steve Madden saidhe believes the company’s success has remainedcentered on one thing: product.“We design shoes every day,” said the creativeand design chief, sitting in his office in LongIsland City, N.Y. “I’m just excited about the nextround of shoes — the next shoe that I’m shipping.”CEO Edward Rosenfeld put it this way: “We’vediversified the company pretty dramatically.We’ve added a lot of new brands, categories andgeographies. But even while we were doing all this,we kept our focus on [creating] great productsfor our customers, and that’s really what hasenabled us to continue to be successful, especiallyin this tough economic environment.”Smart acquisitions also have helped thefirm weather the current financial climate.Fiscal 2011 revenues are projected to increaseabout 50 percent over 2010 levels.“Aside from organic growth, superb acquisitionsare contributing [to the company’sfinancial gains],” said Jeff Van Sinderen, asenior analyst at B. Riley & Co.In May, Steven Madden snapped up ToplineCorp., a move that contributed more than $13million to net sales in the third quarter. (Thecompany estimated Topline has the potentialto become a $200-million business over time.)And Topline’s deep expertise is already beingfelt, particularly in sourcing.“Bill Snowden Sr., [founder and CEO of Topline],is one of the great geniuses of the shoe business,”Madden said. “His team is exciting, and they havesuch a strong presence in China. We wanted to beable to hitch our wagon to that for the future.”Indeed, Topline’s Asian connections havemitigated some of its new parent’s sourcingpressures. The Seattle-based firm, which camewith a private-label arm and a stable of brandsthat include Report, Report Signature and R2by Report, has an established sourcing base innorthern China.“Prior to this acquisition, we were doingvirtually all our sourcing of footwear throughagents. [Topline] allows us to have a very sophisticateddirect-sourcing platform,”Rosenfeld said.Even before its Toplinebuy, Madden wasknown for its effi-A style fromBetsey Johnsonciency in speed-to-market, thanks, in part, toits sample factory located inside the company’sheadquarters, allowing for quick prototyping,testing and delivery.“If there’s a big trend going on in the market,I almost always see it from Steve Madden first,”said Annie Hanson, Famous Footwear’sbuyer for women’s contemporaryand junior boots and casuals.Jildor Shoes President LarryBienenfeld said his storeshave been carrying thebrand since its beginningsin the early 1990s. “[Maddenis] always creating30 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

DILLARD’SSALUTESVINCE CAMUTOFASHION ICON

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011COMPANY OFTHE YEARexciting new products that capture the youngcustomer,” Bienenfeld said. “[Madden] has agreat business, and I’m a big fan.”Steven Madden’s focus on fast fashion hasbeen key as it grows its Betsey Johnson business,which it assumed control of in 2010.“Steve is fast, funny, frank, and we are so inlove,” Johnson quipped.This year, the company took over the footwearoperation and added jewelry, watches and fragranceto the brand’s roster, with a luggage lineset to bow soon.“Betsey has been around a long time, and peopleknow the brand and love it. It’s been a great[label] to have in our arsenal,” Rosenfeld said.More high-profile exposure has come fromMadden’s latest partnership with Mary-Kateand Ashley Olsen, whom the company tappedto serve as creative directors of Superga NorthAmerica, for which the firm is the exclusive licensee.(Madden already collaborates with thesisters on the Elizabeth & James and Olsenboyelines.)“The Olsens are tremendousstylists andstyle-makers, so wejumped at the chanceto work with themagain,” Madden said.The founder also isexcited about anothernew celebrity-focusedcollaboration, withRachel Bilson and herstylist, Nicole Chavez,for the launch of newfootwear ventureShoemint.com.Bilson said Shoemint,which went liveon Black Friday, willbenefit from Madden’sexpertise.Rachel Bilson“He has built aglobal shoe empire and brings extraordinaryexpertise to Shoemint to ensure that our designsare of the best quality and work within the market,”Bilson said.Madden also is delving further into fresh territorywith its flagship line.It acquired accessories maker Cejon Inc. inMay, which contributed $32.6 million to net salesin the third quarter and will help the company extendits reach with cold-weather items and otheraccessories, including slippers andflip-flops.“What [Cejon does] is such aniche business, so they are reallybest in show,” Madden said.And an upcoming intimateappareldeal with Carole Hochmanwill focus on Steve Madden-brandedsleepwear — flannel pajamas,fashion thermals and boxer shorts,all with a menswear-inspired twist — which isset to launch during holiday ’12 and retail in therange of $30 to $68. “We’re looking to expandour footprint, and [growing the intimate-apparelbusiness] makes sense to the total strategy of ourcompany,” Madden said.As it expands into new categories, the brandalso is pumping up its presence internationally.This year, Madden bowed standalonestores in India and upped its door count in theInside the 34th Streetstore in New YorkUnited Arab Emirates.“We’re off to a great start in both of thoseterritories,” Rosenfeld said. “That’s where thegrowth is right now. The whole internationalbusiness has become an increasing focus forus, and it has been growing very rapidly.” Headded that Steve Madden’s next global destinationis South Africa, where the companywill soon launch with The House of Busby, itslicensee there.“Steve really understands how to drive abusiness and keep the momentum going,” saidLiz Rodbell, EVP of merchandising at Lord &Taylor. “He has unending creativity, vision andan eye for the trends.”In the end, Madden said he believes the company’scontinuing success can be attributed to“perpetual insecurity.”“We’re never satisfied,” he said. “We’re alwayson to the next thing — it’s grow or die.”32 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

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FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011DESIGNEROF THE YEARNicholas Kirkwood,photographed for FNin his London storeNICK’SNETWORKWith a new store and a broader collection,Nicholas Kirkwood has expanded his reachacross the globe. BY REGINA SMITH POPPFor the past seven years, thefashion elite enthusiasticallyembraced Nicholas Kirkwoodand helped fuel his rise to footwearstardom. But the designerreached an even wider audiencein 2011, thanks to an expandedoffering, more famous fans and his first brandedboutique, in London.And Kirkwood continues to turn up the heat: Asecond store is slated to open on New York’s WashingtonStreet early next spring, followed by thelaunch of an e-commerce site within the year.“The goal is to make the business run moresmoothly,” Kirkwood said. “It’s a bit like the duckon water cliché: It’s calm on top with the legswildly moving underneath the surface.”Now stocked in 130 doors, including major U.S.players Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstromand Saks Fifth Avenue, the 31-year-old’s collectionhas captivated the industry.“Nicholas likes to challenge our perception ofdesign,” said Ron Frasch, president and chief merchandisingofficer at Saks. “He has a great eye forproportion and balance, but he won’t be boxedinto a corner. If you think he’s the guy who doesgreat platforms, then next season he’s off them.He keeps us on the edge of our seats.”Fashion- and art-world fixture JuliaRestoin-Roitfeld compares Kirkwood’sdesigns to fine art, saying each pair is oneof a kind. “But the best thing is, they arealso very comfortable, which is hard toNicholasKirkwoodspring ’12achieve: style, height and comfort,” she said.Previously known for “distinctive architecturalheel shapes and mixed-media designs”— according to EloiseTaussig, Bergdorf Goodman’sVP & DMM of women’s shoes— Kirkwood’s expansion intomore-commercial styles,such as simple pumps, midheelsand flats, has fueledgrowth this year.“[When] he diversified intoother categories and heel heights, the collection reallycaught our attention,” said Daniella Vitale, chiefmerchant & EVP at Barneys New York. “Nicholashas incredible vision, and it’s nice to bring thatcreativity to every classification in footwear.”Pedder Group President Peter Harris notedthat Kirkwood’s strong point of view and broaderoffering have boosted his business at the LaneCrawford and On Pedder shops over the last year.“Within five years, we would like to be operatinga Nicholas Kirkwood store in Hong Kong, withplans to expand into other cities,” said Harris.Kirkwood’s designs also have made an impressionon celebrity clients, including Beyoncé,Julianne Moore, Rihanna, Gwyneth Paltrow andFreida Pinto. But perhaps the best example of hiswide appeal came last month: Both LadyGaga and Pippa Middleton woreKirkwood’s designs on the same day.Pinto praised Kirkwood’s rawtalent and diversity as a designer.“I love that every collectionis always different fromhis previous one,” saidthe actress and model.“Nicholas is so respectedon the fashioncircuit that [now] it’s hard to miss his name.”And Kirkwood continues to make a statementon the runway, through collaborations with Erdem,Peter Pilotto, Prabal Gurung and the newlyreborn Paco Rabanne.The London-based designer also is creditedwith helping to refresh Italian accessories brandPollini, where he has been creative director sincelast fall and garnered attention for his classicsilhouettes with modern details and pop colors.For spring ’12, Kirkwood will bow his secondjewelry capsule collection for Swarovski, while asmall men’s footwear offering and handbag lineare on the horizon for his eponymous brand.Together with business partner ChristopherSuarez, Kirkwood remains focused on the future.“Nicholas and Christopher are very smartabout what they want to achieve and how theywant to achieve it,” said Frasch. “Their businesssavvy is way beyond their years. And Nicholashas proven to young designers that you can betalented and successful without major financialbacking.”Kirkwood first claimed Footwear News’ Designerof the Year award in 2008, but the past year hasbeen one of his best. “It’s been a good year as far askeeping up the momentum,” he said. “Now I haveto sort out how we can take it to the next level.”PHOTOS: KIRKWOOD: STUART CONWAY; SHOE: COURTESY OF DESIGNER34 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011RETAILEROF THE YEARPRIME TIMEWhen Mindy Grossmanarrived at HSNas CEO five years ago,she turned the companyupside down.Back then, thehome-shopping networkwas stuck in the shadow of its rival, QVC, sufferingfrom a lack of focus, uninspired product anda yell-and-sell approach that turned off viewers.With Grossman’s sweeping changes — “we literallyoverhauled everything, down to the font on ourstationery,” she said — HSN has transformed intoa more modern shopping destination that has thefashion world buzzing.“HSN has gone from being a fashion ‘no’ to afashion ‘yes,’” said designer Sam Edelman, an HSNpartner. “Mindy has really made over the [company’s]image, [putting] HSN at the forefront ofMindy GrossmanHSN now attracts fashion’s biggest names, with shoesplaying a starring role at the network. BY ERIN E. CLACKcelebrity and design.”For Grossman and her team, the 34-year-oldcompany’s turnaround began with taking a stepback and looking at the business in a different light.“We redefined what HSN stands for and createdthis idea of marrying content with commerce,thinking of ourselves more like a lifestyle networksuch as HGTV or the Food Network,” she said.To that end, the company dumped dozens ofbrands and categories that no longer fit with thisnew vision and zeroed in on more style-focusedbusinesses, including beauty, apparel and shoes. Italso began aggressively courting top designers andcelebrities to sell their collections on the network.“We are really maniacal about bringing our consumersproducts that have great personalities andstories behind them,” Grossman said.In the footwear space, HSN signed big names,including Steve Madden, Stuart Weitzman, VinceCamuto and Mariah Carey, who launched a line ofshoes and other items last holiday season.Carey told Footwear News that the retailer hasbeen an ideal platform for introducing her designsto her fans. “HSN’s reach is massive,” she said. “Ilove being part of it all.” The star said the opportunityto connect with consumers through her onairappearances is invaluable. “People love feelingclose to designers and celebrities and hearingthem talk about their products firsthand. It’s beena real learning experience [for me].”The footwear category has become a standoutfor HSN, and many credit that to Grossman, aNike alum and self-described shoe lover. FellowFNAA honoree Vince Camuto said Grossman wasinfluential in his decision to join HSN’s roster.“She has brought stability to the business, andI really believe she’s going to take the company tothe next level,” he said, noting that HSN providestremendous exposure for his brand. “Its reachis unbelievable, and its customer [base] is verydiversified around the country.”Although HSN sells a range of shoe categories,the contemporary market is where the companyhas really planted its stake. “It’s who we are, and wewant to own that space,” said John Bosco, HSN’sSVP of apparel, accessories and jewelry. To giveitself an edge, the firm partners with its brands tooffer exclusives. As much as 70 percent of its productsare proprietary, said Bosco.With all that growth, the footwear category isbeing given increasingly more airtime. This year,the network introduced its first 18- and 24-hourshoe sales and also collaborated with ParamountPictures to present a special footwear-focusedshopping event inspired by the movie remake of“Footloose.” The event was part of a bigger pushby HSN to integrate more entertainment into itsprogramming, with the goal of creating must-seeTV. The company ran similar programs aroundthe films “Eat, Pray, Love” and “The Help.”To connect with consumers beyond TV, HSN isleveraging its programming content across all itsdigital platforms, including HSN.com, its mobileapps and a recently launched gaming portal.“We no longer think of HSN as a TV network;we think of it as a content platform across differentscreens,” Grossman said, stressing that thecompany’s digital experiences are highly customized,not cookie-cutter. With its iPad app, for example,shoe lovers can create a footwear-specificchannel and receive alerts when new shoe-relatedvideos become available.If the St. Petersburg, Fla.-based company’srecent performance is any gauge, consumers likethe new, improved HSN. The retailer has rung upquarter after quarter of robust sales increases, andprofits continue to climb. “It’s very validating tosee customers responding so positively to whatwe’re doing,” Grossman said. “We think we’veelevated the idea of network shopping from beinga very linear, transactional business to somethingthat inspires, informs and entertains.”PHOTO: COURTESY OF HSN36 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

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FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011INDEPENDENTRETAILEROF THE YEARThe store in Toronto’sYorkdale Shopping CentreWHITE’SHOUSEFPOCanadian retailer RonWhite is expanding athome and going stateside.BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVYKeeping up with Ron Whitethese days isn’t easy. Afternearly two decades at thehelm of his eponymous firm,the Canadian retailer thisyear bowed his sixth location,took his namesake lineswholesale and launched a new website. Theseinitiatives have led to double-digit growth for thecompany in 2011, with further expansion plannedfor the wholesale business stateside.“I wear multiple hats,” said White. Since February,he’s juggled the opening of a long-awaited3,000-sq.-ft. flagship in Toronto’s tony YorkdaleShopping Centre, relocated his Oakville, Ontario,store and expanded his own brand lineup with ahigh-end Signature collection retailing from $495to $955. The new website, timed for his move intothe U.S. market, relaunched with a more informationaland user-friendly format, as well as a globaldot-com address.Although White hasrecently put his energy intospreading the word abouthis own All Day Heels andSignature collections — bothtop-selling brands in hisstores — he remains committedto the vendors that helpedturn his chain into a destinationfor fashion and comfortin Canada. “Ron is passionatewhen he believes in a product,category or brand philosophy,”said Greg Nicoghosian,president of MephistoRon WhiteCanada, which has sold inWhite’s stores for 15 years. “He was a pioneer forMephisto. It helped him launch his business and[helped] Mephisto establish its own name.”Other vendors, which include Stuart Weitzman,Thierry Rabotin, Cole Haan, Frye and Donald J.Pliner, praised White for the exposure he provides.“For many years, Ron has been interested in andhad confidence in Frye’s efforts to sell in Canada,”said Larry Tarica, co-president of Frye’s parentcompany, Jimlar Corp. “He’s the type of personwho not only understands our product and brandbut also puts significant presentations in his stores.His approach to selling resonates with his vendorsand customers.”White’s store clientele includes high-profile Canadianssuch as Laureen Harper, wife of the primeminister. But he also counts American celebs suchas Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell among his customers,along with Matt Damon and Kevin Spacey.In the States, White remains connected to Hollywoodinsiders: He was invited to be part of thisyear’s Golden Globes giftingsuite after show organizersspotted him at the 2010Toronto International FilmFestival, where he participatedin a similar event.“The Golden Globes havebeen life-changing,” saidWhite. “I met the casts of‘Glee’ and ‘Modern Family,’as well as Dennis Quaid andLa Toya Jackson.”Following the GoldenGlobes, White was part ofthe gifting lounge at thePrimetime Emmy Awards,where he shod cast members of “Entourage,” andseveral of them wore his shoes onstage. “This wasall about raising awareness with American buyersand fashion magazines,” said White. “[The event]added credence and weight while I’m trying to getpeoples’ time and attention. It was part of my planfor coming to the States.”White has been just as successful in connectingwith the retail community in the U.S. Wholesalesales for fall ’11, he said, totaled $1 million, withstores such as Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor, ArthurBeren Shoes in San Francisco, Hanig’s Footwear inChicago and Harry’s Shoes in New York all comingon board. (In Canada, the lines are available atHudson’s Bay Co.)According to White, the All Day Heels linebowed in his own stores in 2009, but he waitedbefore taking the product wholesale. “I wanted toperfect it first,” said the retailer. “I wanted to haveall the misses on my own turf [and] to test for fitand comfort.”Arthur Beren Shoes was the first to debutWhite’s shoes, bringing in All Day Heels for spring’11. “We became acquainted, and [I] saw [thelines] would fit into our mix in a positive way,”said buyer Sid Berger. “We see [it] as a category inluxury comfort contemporary classic footwearthat’s growing. He fits in with [our] other vendorsin that category.”“I view him as one of the most exciting retailersin the industry,” said Peter Hanig, presidentof Hanig’s Footwear, who first met White 15 yearsago. “He has an overall grasp of how to operate abusiness in changing times better than most. He’sone of the best self-marketers I have ever seen. Heuses every opportunity to make himself known andbecome part of his community.”PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RON WHITE38 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

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FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011ICON AWARDFOR SOCIAL IMPACTKIND WORDSHe’s mastered messaging and addressed thebig issues. Now, Kenneth Cole takes his life’spassion to a new level. BY NEIL WEILHEIMERKenneth Cole has successfullyproven he can be a publicserviceprovocateur andbig-time businessman overthe past three decades, butthe deadly earthquake thatleveled Haiti last year servedas a rallying call for even more action from theexecutive and his company.This fall, Cole launched an initiative to raisemoney at his stores through a partnership withSoles4Souls, an effort that generated $140,000and collected 3,000 pairs of shoes. Next, he aims tobuild a local community center that will educatelocals on both academics and health issues such asAIDS awareness and prevention. Details for thatdevelopment are still being finalized.“We want to bring services to a community,”Cole said. “You can feed them, but they are justgoing to be hungry tomorrow. You can vaccinatethem, but you’ll just have to vaccinate again. Youcan’t build enough houses because there isn’tenough real estate there for the number of homelesspeople.”The executive traveled to Haiti last month for thefirst time to see the lingering hardship up close.“Haiti is far more devastated than anybodycan imagine,” Cole said. “I don’t think any visiblechange has happened since the quake. The changesthat will be transformative are going to comefrom services, but maybethe most critical is goingto come from education.Seventy-five percent ofthe population is technicallyilliterate.”Cole has aimed todo good since hiscompany’s foundingin 1982. He hastackled one causeafter another,using KennethCole ProductionsInc. as a vehicle tospotlight issues rangingfrom AIDS and homelessnessto women’s rights andgun control. Without question,the exec, known for histhought-provoking, pun-ladenad campaigns, is the master ofcapturing attention, sometimespositively, such as with the “We AllHave AIDS” T-shirts in 2005, andother times less so, such as when histweet earlier this year about the uprisingin Egypt ignited a social backlash.In the mid-1980s, when Americansfocused on hunger in Africa and strugglingdomestic farmers, Cole beganto address what he called “the darkcloud looming” — the nascent HIVepidemic few people were willing todiscuss openly. At first, his involvementwas through small ad campaigns.Then Cole’s crusade intensifiedwhen he joined the board of AmfAR,the foundation for AIDS research, in 1987,becoming chairman seven years later.At left: A starstuddedAIDSawarenessadSince Cole began working withthat organization, it has raisedroughly $325 million for research,a figure that rose thanks to the designer’s edgymarketing and powerful network of celebritiesand business leaders.“Kenneth has brought his creative prowess tothe messaging of the organization [in a way] thathas helped cut through a lot of the noise aboutthe epidemic,” said Kevin Frost, CEO of AmfAR.“In some ways, he has been the voice of AmfAR.”Earlier this month, Cole uncorked a newAIDS-awareness campaign with a sexuallysuggestive theme, “Come Together.”The ads, a joint effort created by AmfARand the MTV Staying Alive Foundation,feature such notable names as Sarah JessicaParker, Estelle and Cyndi Lauper. Aspart of the initiative, Cole reinterpreted theclassic AIDS ribbon, with all sale profits goingtoward further research.“There’s a Jewish law that says theworld is imperfect, so try to makeit better,” said former New YorkGovernor Mario Cuomo, who isalso Cole’s father-in-law. “Kennethbelieves those things. Helives them.”To that end, Cole championsother causes as well. He was afounding member of Help USA,which provides housing and jobassistance to the homeless. Theexecutive continues to supportthe group — currently chaired by hiswife, Maria — and has donated morethan 800,000 pairs of shoes since theearly 1990s.“Kenneth Cole is one of the mostgenerous people I know,” said actor StanleyTucci, a friend and frequent AmfARspeaker. “How he has continued to use hisbrand and its influence in brave and boldways to raise awareness about grave social issuesand those less fortunate is unprecedented.He has the heart of an altruist and the soul of acheap vaudevillian.”It’s no wonder, then, that Cole continues tothink beyond the business of making clothes andshoes; it’s by using them to achieve somethingbigger that they can become more meaningful,he explained.“I feel privileged to have a platform fromwhich to communicate. I try to do all thesemessages in an unimposing way, to communicatewith a sense of humor and in themost self-deprecating way I know how,”he said. “I don’t believe anyone is going tochange their mind because I tell them howI feel. But I do believe that if you can beunimposing and present your feelingsin a nonthreatening way, people will bemore inclined to listen.”PHOTOS: COURTESY OF KENNETH COLE40 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011BRAND OF THE YEARINCIBLE VINCENew stores and a holiday launch are driving sales andsuccess for Vince Camuto’s label. BY KRISTEN HENNINGA spring ’12 styleVince Camuto is no neophytewhen it comes to building ablockbuster brand.Now in its sixth year, hiseponymous line is creatingmore buzz than ever withboth retail and productexpansion. And after co-founding Nine West andthen building Camuto Group into a major force,the footwear legend has proven he has the magictouch. So what’s the secret to striking gold morethan once?“As simple as it may sound, it takes hard workand great passion,” said Camuto, founder, chiefdesigner and CEO at Camuto Group. “I’m withfashion every single day, and we’re constantlyexploring. That’s why we’ve always been excitedabout the [industry], because the shoe businesschanges every 90 days, soyou have to be on trend.”To further advance hisbrand, Camuto is divinghead first into retail. A newstore opened recently inNew York’s Grand CentralStation, and a second isslated to debut in the nextmonth on Long Island. Nextyear, the label plans to open10 additional storefrontsthroughout the New Yorkarea, with a Soho shop bowingby January.“We’re providingthat vertical experience between launching atdepartment stores, our own e-commerce and nowVince Camuto stores,” said Bob Galvin, presidentof The Camuto Group. “We’re giving [our customers]a lot of opportunities to shop the brand.”Adding international locations has been a largepart of the agenda. Fourteen stores opened globallythis year, including four in Israel and two in Mexico.Vince Camuto currently operates 20 stores globally,with plans to double the count next year.But growth will remain strategic, said Camuto.“We haven’t reached the point where we want tobe in terms of international [distribution],” hesaid. “You have to find the right partner, the rightpeople. We’re not in a race.”Retail partners are just as important. Nordstromis a large account for the brand, and customerscontinue to respond well to the styles, said ScottMeden, Nordstrom’s GMM ofshoes, who first met Camutoduring his Nine West days.“He’s very passionate aboutproduct and getting it right forthe customer,” said Meden.“He developed this perspectiveduring his first job, whichwas taking complaints fromcustomers who were returningshoes. He listened andfound a way to apply whathe heard to making shoesand improving the customerexperience.”As Vince Camuto continuesto gain momentum on storeshelves, the product line isalso expanding. The higherendVC Signature collection,which debuted at Nordstromfor holiday ’11 with aprice point of $195 to $495,The new Vince Camutostore in Grand Centralis designed to reach a newcustomer.Additional categories alsoVince Camuto, photographedfor FN in his Greenwich,Conn., headquartershave been key this year, with the launch of ready-towearand accessories, including jewelry, sunglassesand a fragrance. Men’s shoes will debut for fall ’12.With so many initiatives, Galvin is confidentthe brand’s success will continue. “I don’t thinkit’s going to take a long time to double in size,” hesaid. “A lot of the product categories are launchingthis year, so we’ll see the brand [sales] continue todouble over the next couple of years.”That buzz also has helped the brand developmore of a celebrity following. Recently, KatieHolmes was spotted wearing its shoes three timesin one week.Lord & Taylor also has been selling Camutosince the beginning, and today counts the brandas one of its top performers, said Liz Rodbell, EVPof merchandising. “The company has laser focuswhen it comes to being on trend and offering whatthe consumer wants at great perceived value,” shesaid, adding that the brand succeeds thanks to Camuto’svision. “He is a pleasure to work with — oneof my personal favorites — because he is so directlyinvolved in the business and making sure that weare getting what we need.”Longtime Camuto Group partner JessicaSimpson also praised the exec for his expertise.“To work with such a talented entrepreneur hasespecially taught me the lessons of integrity andbusiness savvy,” she said. “Vince is the smartestbusinessman I have ever met. He is passionate andcreative, honest and faithful. Simply put, VinceCamuto is my hero.”And while Camuto’s passion is the driving forcebehind his brand, he is quick to attribute his successto his team’s dedication.“We just think about making great product, givingthe consumer great value and timely fashion,”he said. “That’s been our mantra.”PHOTOS: CAMUTO: ROBERT MITRA; SHOE, STORE: COURTESY OF VINCE CAMUTO42 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

MY TEAM AND I AREHONOURED TO BEAWARDED FOOTWEARNEWS’ INDEPENDENTRETAILER OF THE YEAR.THANK YOU!WE ALSO CONGRATULATE:Lifetime Achievement AwardMANOLO BLAHNIKCompany of the YearSTEVE MADDENRetailer of the YearHSNBrands of the YearUGGVINCE CAMUTODesigner of the YearNICHOLAS KIRKWOODMarketer of the YearADIDASLaunches of the YearB BRIAN ATWOODRACHEL ZOEVivian Infantino Emerging TalentBURAK UYANIcon Award for Social ImpactKENNETH COLEHall of FameLARRY AND JIM TARICAPATRICIA FIELD

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011BRAND OF THE YEARBILLION BOUNDWith a new men’s push and an Italian-made luxeline, Ugg Australia ruled in 2011. BY WAYNE NIEMIAngel Martinez follows a simplemantra for making sureUgg Australia doesn’t simplybask in its past success:“What got us here, won’t getus there,” said the chairman,president and CEO of parentcompany Deckers Outdoor Corp.Still, where the brand is now is pretty enviableterritory. During its third quarter, ended Sept. 30,Ugg saw sales grow more than 47 percent, to $376.7million, making it almost a sure thing that the labelwill pass $1 billion in sales by year’s end.Yet even as the brand closes in on that majormilestone, Martinez is already looking ahead.“Could we [eventually] double in size or eventriple in size? I think so,” said the executive.“The product line has evolved to meet consumerneeds in each market [around the world]. Sonow we have a year-round product line in men’s,women’s and kids.’ We can sell product in warmand cold climates, and we can do it every monthof the year.”That might sound ambitious, but given whatthe brand team has accomplished so far, thesmart money is betting on Ugg.“Customers simply love Ugg,” said Scott Meden,GMM of shoes at Nordstrom. “The success of thebrand lies in its ability to provide relevant fashionthat gives its loyal customer a new reason to buywithout losing the comfort that is the cornerstoneof the brand. She now has fashion choices thatcater to more areas of her life.”Jim Estepa, SVP of Genesco Inc. and presidentand CEO of its retail group, also lauded Ugg’sgrowth. “We’ve watched the brand consistentlyintroduce must-have fashion products,” he said.“The disciplined approach to distribution, thecontinued evolution of the core product and akeen understanding of brand equity will sustainUgg’s growth and success for years to come.”This past year, the label aggressively steppedup its efforts to attract male customers beyondits slipper business. In addition to designing acomprehensive line of shoes and boots for men,Ugg signed New England Patriots quarterbackTom Brady as the spokesman for the line. Thelarger product range, combined with Brady’s appeal,proved a winning combination.“It has been a resounding success,” said Martinez.“Our men’s business is up very solidly inthe double digits [over last year].”Connie Rishwain, president of the Ugg brand,said the product and marketing message are juststarting to take root, with big things ahead for thecoming year.“We really see the Tom Brady campaigninfluencing 2012 even more than in 2011,” shesaid. “In 2011, [Brady] helped sell through,but not sell-in because [the campaign] didn’tlaunch until fall. We see it being even that muchstronger next year.” While Rishwain said salesof men’s product would likely always lag behindwomen’s, men’scould eventuallymake up about 25percent of sales.For his part,Brady said he’sthrilled to be onTeam Ugg. “Longbefore I partneredwith Ugg, I wasa huge fan of thebrand,” he said.“I wore them andgave them as giftsto family andfriends.”The brand alsoscored this yearwith its Ugg Collection,a line ofluxury, more fashion-drivenproductmade in Italy. Thenew range helpedUgg-brandedfootwear enter thecouture depart-Angel Martinez and Connie Rishwain,photographed at Deckers Outdoor Corp.’sGoleta, Calif.-based headquartersments and shoe salons of top department stores,including Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue.Priced at $500 to $1,200, Ugg Collection markeda turning point for the brand, expanding its audience— and credibility — as a fashion player.On the retail front, the company bowed 13locations in the past year, bringing its total to50 doors worldwide. More could be on the way,though Martinez said the rate of new openingswill largely depend on the global economy.“We’re probably looking at another 25 storesnext year, but that’s up in the air,” he said. “We’revery aware of what’s happening with the macroeconomicenvironment around the world, so it’sa valve we can open or close. We’ll continue toopen stores, [but] the rate may slow a little bit.”Regardless of economic headwinds, Martinezsaid, the company will continue to build its men’sbusiness in the coming year, refine its fashionproductofferings, add newness to its core classicsand open additional retail shops, plus expand thebrand in Asia, Europe and Latin America.“More people are discovering Ugg every year,”the CEO said. “Now the consumer who, forwhatever reason, wouldn’t want to wear a classicboot has many other reasons to buy Ugg. It’s anexciting time.”PHOTO: MEHOSH DZIADZIO44 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

CONGRATULATIONS TOJIM AND LARRY TARICAAS HONOREDRECIPIENTS OFTHE HALL OF FAMEACHIEVEMENTAWARD.“YOUR DEDICATION TOTHE INDUSTRY ISWELL COMMENDED.”YOUR DEAR FRIEND,BOBBY CAMPBELL

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011LAUNCHOF THE YEARFREE TO BA successful launch season pointsto great things ahead for B BrianAtwood. BY MICHELLE TAYBrian Atwood has scored againas his second line is alreadymaking waves in the contemporaryfootwear market.“It’s been amazing to seethe vision I have for B BrianAtwoodfully [materialize], and formy designer business [togrow] at the same time,”said Atwood.His lower-priced linehas been a hit at departmentstores this year,according to TheJones Group Inc.,which owns thelabel, and retailexecs attributethe line’s quicksuccess to thedesigner.Brian Atwood,photographedat The Jones Groupheadquarters inNew York“Brian Atwood’s aesthetic and fashion pointof view has appealed to our customers in allmarkets. When we first saw the new B BrianAtwood collection, we knew he [had] tapped intosomething our customers [were] searching for,”said Cody Kondo, SVP and GMM of accessoriesat Saks Fifth Avenue.Debbie King, VP and DMM of women’sfootwear at Bloomingdale’s, agreed, noting thatthe store is adding more depth and breadth forspring ’12. “B Brian Atwood stands apart fromother brands on the floor. Color, sexy high heels,interesting materials and ornamentation [arewhat excite the customer],”she said.At Neiman Marcus,styles such as the tricolorplatform heel and thesilver shimmer platformpump have flown off theshelves, said Ken Downing,SVP and fashion director.“[It’s] fantastic fashion at afantastic price, with all thestyle that Brian brings toall his collections,” he said.And in Hollywood,Atwood is gaining an evenlarger celebrity followingas actresses such as SelmaBlair and Emma Robertsfind the new collectionjust as red-carpet worthyas his eponymous line.Blair, who wore the BBrian Atwood metallicLiese style to AmfAR’sInspiration Gala in LosAngeles last month, said,“I couldn’t leave the partybecause everyone wantedto know who made them.I love that the lines areclean and elegant, but the iridescent materialis really what makes them special.”All in all, 2011 has been a fulfillingyear — both personally and professionally— for the designer, who cited hisAugust engagement to Jake Deutsch asthe highlight of his year.And having also won Designer of theYear at last year’s FNAAs, Atwood sharesB Brian Atwoodspring ’12this award with one of his best friends,Rachel Zoe (see page 48), who considersherself “the unofficial spokesperson forBrian Atwood shoes. We’ve always beeneach other’s biggest supporters, [and] to behonored [together] is a dream for both ofus,” she said.Atwood said he was shocked at how well thenew line has performed since debuting in August.“The fact that it’s selling through is just thebest part,” he said. “I go online every day to checkit out. We’re doubling the doors [going forward].We want to keep distribution relatively tight [sowe can] really build the business.”Parent company Jones has singled out the lineas a growth driver.“B Brian Atwood has been the No. 1 contemporaryshoe launch this year at Saks, Bloomingdale’s,Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. Positiveretail reception is accelerating expansion of thebrand into additional stores for fall ’12,” RichardDickson, president and CEO of brandedbusinesses at Jones, said in a call with analystslast month.Looking to 2012, Atwood said, “The B BrianAtwood business will at least double next year.With the potential and energy that we have, wecould easily do that.”Atwood also is looking to grow the brand byexpanding product categories — jewelry andhandbags are already in development — and takingit overseas.“I would say in the next year [we’ll launch]somewhere overseas, even if just with selectretailers. Europe [may be first] because of mypresence there already [with the main line],” hesaid, adding that the next target would be Mexicoand the rest of South America, followed by Asia.Meanwhile, the core Brian Atwood businesscontinues to grow despite global macroeconomicheadwinds, logging a 57 percent year-to-dateincrease over 2010, according to the company.The designer said he will continue to makesexy high heels that are accessible across arange of price points. It’s all part of his goal, heexplained: To make his name synonymous with“anything that puts a huge smile on a woman’sface and gets her an extra whistle walking downthe street.”PHOTOS: ATWOOD: KYLE ERICKSEN; SHOE: COURTESY OF BRAND46 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011LAUNCH OF THE YEARDIVINEREALITYRachel Zoe addeddesigner to her list ofduties this year and hasbeen a winner right out ofthe gate. BY LAUREN DILELLOAfter years of dressingcelebs in other designers’labels, Rachel Zoe brokeout with her own namesakeline of footwear, appareland handbags for fall ’11,much to the delight of fans,consumers and retailers.“Here’s a woman who has seen the best fashionin the world, has her own vintage archives andhas personal style,” said Neiman Marcus SVP andfashion director Ken Downing. “You add all thattogether and it’s phenomenal.”The stylist-to-the-stars leapt into the worldof fashion design along with husband RodgerBerman, who joined the company as president in2009, and documented much of the process onher hit reality series, “The Rachel Zoe Project.”She partnered with LF USA to create a glam,1970s-inspired contemporary line she calls ontrend but not trendy.“For me, it’s about doing a very diverse collection— having an amazing ankle boot, an incrediblestrappy wedge — something for everybody,”she said of the styles, which retail for $195 to $395for shoes and $425 to $695 for boots.Launching three product categories at once wasno easy feat, but Zoe said she wouldn’t have it anyother way. “As a stylist, it’s always been about alifestyle, and you can’t achieve that without havingshoes and handbags,” she said.So far, going full throttle seems to be worth therisk. Zoe’s inaugural collection was picked up bymajor retailers at home and abroad, includingNeiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, SaksFifth Avenue and Selfridges. With the launch sucha hit, she quickly doubled her offerings for resortand spring with a variety of heel heights and newconstructions.“Right out of the gate, Rachel has a certaincredibility that a customer who loves fashionresponds to immediately because she alreadyhas the fashion authority,” said Bloomingdale’sfashion accessories director Brooke Jaffe. “She’searned her stripes.”Michele Love, national merchandise manager fordesigner shoes at Nordstrom, agreed: “Each silhouetteis edited and editorial, but more importantly,it’s done in such a way that it is absolutely wearableand integral to ready-to-wear for the season.”Zoe is also a success online, said Shopbop.comDMM Darcy Penick. “The collection is a truetestament to Rachel’s style and her sensibility asa woman who loves to dress up, but who also understandsthe importance of balance between theaesthetic and the wearability,” she said.And Zoe’s celebrity clients — who include HollywoodA-listers such as Eva Mendes, JenniferGarner, Kate Hudson and Cameron Diaz — arealso big fans of the fledgling designer.“I’ve always admired Rachel’s style,” saidMendes. “She’s a real, true individual, and I’mthrilled that she’s finally doing what she was bornto do: design.”Garner, who has been styled by Zoe for almosta decade, lauded her abilities. “Rachel is such anartist when it comes to stylingand designing,” she said. “Shehas an incredible eye that I’vebeen lucky enough to havedressing me, and it’s abouttime that she share her designtalent with everyone.”Zoe admits she’s still learningabout the business and isgrateful for her footwear mentorand partner, Larry Tarica,co-president of Jimlar Corp., adivision of LF USA (and a fellowFNAA honoree).Tarica is equally enthusiasticabout the partnership. “Weare appreciative of this terrificopportunity to work with her,”he said. “Rachel is not onlytalented, with a clear visionand point of view, but she isopen-minded and extremelycollaborative.”Now, Zoe and Berman said,they hope to build on thebrand’s momentum. AdditionalRachel Zoe product categories are on thehorizon, with jewelry, smallleather goods and cold-weatheraccessories expected next.“We’ve been working on this for 18 years,” saidBerman of Zoe’s foray into the fashion industry.“She worked hard to get here, and I’m workinghard to keep her here.”Zoe concedes that while the collection’s successhas exceeded her expectations, she often finds theexperience surreal. And she, too, is determined tokeep her brand on top. “The fact is, you’re only asgood as your last collection, and it’s great that everyoneloves it, but I have to keep it up, and everycollection needs to be better,” she said.Designer and close personal friend BrianAtwood, who is also honored this yearwith an FNAA Launch of the Yearaward, is confident thatwon’t be a problem. “Ifshe asked for [myadvice on designing],of course I’dgive it,” he said.“But she totallygets it.”A spring ’12 sandalfrom Rachel ZoePHOTOS: COURTESY OF RACHEL ZOE48 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL OUR FELLOW HONOREESMANY THANKS FOOTWEAR NEWS FOR BRAND OF THE YEAR

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011VIVIAN INFANTINOEMERGING TALENTCOOLSHADESBurak Uyan has thefashion world buzzingabout his colorful,architectural styles.BY JOCELYN ANDERSONBurak Uyan works from astudio in Paris’ historic Mariasdistrict, steps away from Placedes Vosges and several of thecity’s museums. So it’s nosurprise that the 32-year-olddesigner has found inspirationin architecture and color for his namesake footwearcollection, which debuted for spring ’11.“I am surrounded all the time by architecture inParis. It’s the first thing that appeals to me,” saidUyan. “I adopted it immediately in some cut-outelements and in some of the shoe construction.Of course, it changes every season, and I mix it upwith other themes.”And while still architectural, his spring ’12 lineis clearly influenced by specific bright colors. Theshades come from Indonesian butterflies, whichUyan purchased and then sent to his suppliers toreplicate.“All the skins are custom-madein the colors of the butterflies:yellows, greens and this very acidyorange,” said Uyan. “For me,it was the best way to imitatenature. In the end, it becamesomething very feminine andstrong.”It’s that creativity that quicklygarnered Uyan attention fromBurak Uyan, photographedfor FN in his Paris studiothis monthbuyers, consumers and the media. His booties,heels and sandals, which retail for $650 to $1,500,have already secured 55 accounts globally, includingSaks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus andNet-a-porter.com.“Uyan’s designs have an architectural sensibilitywith the perfect balance of elegance and modernity,”said Holli Rogers, buying director at Net-aporter.“His designs were an instant hit among ourcustomers, and we are excited to be carrying hiscollection for a second season.”Stylists and celebrities have also taken notice. SupermodelNatalia Vodianova wore Uyan’s designsfor all her Paris Fashion Week appearances.And stylist Rachel Zoe called on behalfof client Cameron Diaz, who worethe designer’s shoes to the TeenTwo Burak Uyanstyles for spring ’12Choice Awards in August.“Burak is so incredibly talented,” said Zoe. “Ilove how modern and unique his designs are. Youcan always count on him for a pair of structuralstrappy heels or unexpected bright booties.”Uyan isn’t new to the fashion industry. A graduateof the Fashion Institute of Vienna, he startedin apparel design, first at Alberto Marani in Parisbefore moving to Givenchy and eventually GiambattistaValli, where he was head designer andin charge of accessories. It was there that he metcurrent business partner Srdjan Prodanovic andrealized his love of making shoes.“I went to the factories and worked with theartisans. That’s how I improved my knowledgeof footwear and my know-how,” said Uyan. “Inthe last few years there, I developed a passion forshoes, and it became like a drug.”After about five years, Uyan and Prodanoviclaunched Aperlai in 2009 with Alessandra Lanvin.The two men left the next year to start theBurak Uyan collection.“I wanted to work on my own [line] becauseyou spend so much energy working for someoneelse,” Uyan said. “I really had to make the moveand finally express myself exactly.”The line debuted for spring ’11, and before iteven hit stores, Uyan was tapped for the NewTalents Corner by Vogue Italia. The event, whichtook place in Milan in February, offered exhibitionspace for the designers and hosted top buyersand the international press.Rickie De Sole, senior accessories editor atAmerican Vogue, is a fan of Uyan’s and was inattendance. “He’s so smart because there’s a consistencyin that [the shoes] feel new and fresh,but you can imagine that the customer can get anunderstanding of who the designer is from seasonto season,” she said. “He’s charming himself,but his designs really speak for themselves.”Another exciting moment came when Rodarte’sKate and Laura Mulleavy invited Uyan to designtwo shoes for their spring ’12 runway show at NewYork Fashion Week — a silver strappy sandal anda navy satin sandal with a bejeweled ankle strapand sculpted heel. Although the shoes were notavailable for sale, the project was a chance for thedesigner to be seen in yet another market.Next, Uyan would like to expand his offering ofhandbags, which numbers two or threestyles each season. He’s also thinkingabout a men’s shoe range and a brandedboutique in the near future.And having started in apparel, hedoesn’t rule it out at some point,but his focus always comes back toshoes, he said.“There’s nothing like seeingwomen trying on shoes. It’s a verynice feeling,” said Uyan. “It makes mehappy to make women happy.”PHOTOS: UYAN: DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; SHOES: COURTESY OF DESIGNER50 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011MARKETEROF THE YEARALL THATThanks to an inclusive new campaign thatbreaks down walls and targets teens, Adidashas seen sales grow. BY JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRYTo win favor around the world— and with American teenagers,in particular — Adidaswent all in in 2011.In March, the Herzogenaurach,Germany-based athleticgiant launched its largest advertisingcampaign to date. “All Adidas” debutedonline and on television around the world with a60-second spot that brought all its lines togetherwith a heaping serving of star power, includingcameos by Katy Perry, David Beckham, B.o.B.,Dwight Howard and Derrick Rose.The ads, which showed pinnacle performancestyles, as well as fashion and lifestyle productfrom Adidas Originals and Y-3, represent thethe company’s first definitive brand statementsince 2004’s “Impossible Is Nothing.” And whilethe company doesn’t disclosefigures, it is its largest to date.(Some sources have estimated“Impossible Is Nothing” to havebeen a $50 million investment.)The push comes at a criticaltime for Adidas, said CEOHerbert Hainer. Speaking toFootwear News earlier in theyear, he characterized thecampaign, which was conceivedin Germany and created by thecompany’s agency, Montreal’sSid Lee, as a key element in thebrand’s quest to reinforce itsposition as a global player andhit 17 billion euros by 2015.“[Since 2004], we’ve brokenit up [and focused] oncategories with football ads,basketball ads, etc.,” HainerKaty Perrysaid. “We said it’s time to bringit together again to show the consumerwhat Adidas is all about.It’s not just football and not justOriginals.”That message especially resonatedin the U.S., where the “AllAdidas” campaign has been a bigpart of a plan to attract the teenagecustomer, said Adidas America PresidentPatrik Nilsson.And while the mix of athletes and celebrities —and lines — was unorthodox, CoreBrand managingdirector Tim Robinson said he thought ithad potential to reach that target shopper. “Thecampaign has created some awareness and raisedeyebrows,” he said. “People who know it are lookingat the brand, and that is good. There’s clearlyan attempt to appeal to a younger audience, assome of the risk they’ve facedhas been being seen as a littleout of step with current trends.They’re trying to rectify that.”With that focus on teenscame a bigger concentration onsocial media, especially You-Tube, Facebook and Twitter.The new ad campaign alsowas designed to focus attentionon American-specific sportssuch as basketball. In June, ahoops spot starring ChicagoBull Derrick Rose and his newCrazy Light basketball productstarted airing, as well as asoccer-focused ad featuring U.S.athletes David Beckham, JuanAguedelo and Kenny Cooper Jr.Then, in August, the brandhighlighted lifestyle merchandisewith an Originals-focusedDavid Beckhamad featuring Snoop Dogg, Dwight Howard andJeremy Scott, among others.“We needed to have more focus, with fewerconcepts and more categories that are relevantwith our core consumer group, and this is reallybuilt on all those pillars,” Nilsson said.So far, the strategy has paid off.The 60-second U.S. commercial has racked up2.5 million views on YouTube. In the U.S., thecompany said it saw a 143 percent increase inoverall Facebook fans and a 175 percent increasein fans in the key 13-to-17 age group.Such success has translated into sales, too.September was the eighth consecutive month ofdouble-digit revenue growth in footwear for thebrand in the U.S., according to The NPD Group.And Sportscan Info reported that Adidas nowhas 6 percent market share, up from 4.9 percenta year ago.Additionally, the company reported a 99 percentspike in U.S. traffic to its e-commerce site,with a 77 percent rise in total sales there versuslast year.According to Nilsson, the “All Adidas” campaignmay well continue next year, shaped intonew forms to highlight fresh initiatives. Theexecutive also hinted that it may have an evenbigger budget.“Our best work is yet to come,” he said. “Wehave so much runway and so much potential atyear two of this six-year plan [that after] creatingthat base, we can now operate at a higher level.”PHOTOS: COURTESY OF ADIDAS52 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011HALL OF FAMEPatricia Field has always donethings her way.With a career spanning 45years and counting, the designer,stylist and boutique owner builther reputation by creating herown blueprint. “If you asked mewho I looked up to from the beginning of my career,I would say no one,” Field said. “I didn’t see fashionthat way. I felt fashion.”On the other hand, Field has clearly inspiredothers in the industry. “As a designer, everyoneloves her because she does what designers dreamof doing: putting together eccentric pieces,” saiddesigner Christian Siriano. “Any designer wouldlove to have Patricia pull for one of their projectsbecause that means she thinks it’s interesting,Pat Field, photographedfor FN this month inher New York studioFIELD OF DREAMSFour decades after her start, the stylist, designer andretailer is still defining fashion. BY GERALD FLOREScreative, new and special.”George Malkemus, president of Manolo BlahnikUSA, said Field’s ability to stay ahead of trends putsher in a unique class.“She always has an extraordinary take on what’shappening on the street before anyone else in fashion,”he said. “She embraces young ideas and youngpeople in a way that very few people in fashion do.”Born and raised in New York, Field’s relationshipwith fashion started in 1966 when she opened herfirst boutique in Greenwich Village. The eponymousstore, now relocated to the Bowery neighborhood,was a passion project for Field.“I love retail because there’s a truth in it. Themoney goes on the counter or it doesn’t,” she said.The know-how for the store came from her parents,who owned and operated dry-cleaning busi-nesses. Through them, Field learned the basics:how to work a cash register, build relationshipswith customers and be fanatical about her work.Her shop gradually became a primary playeron the New York fashion scene, and in 1994, Fieldlaunched her own line, House of Field.Along the way, she also added a new skill to herrésumé: styling for TV and film.A close friend recommended her for a costumejob in 1986, a feature film called “Lady Beware”that was shooting in New York. Field said stylingfor actors was a good adjunct to running her storeand was a little less stressful.And after that, one job led to another.“When the opportunity came up to do stylingon sets, it was a good balance for me because youjust sell a service and you walk away,” she said.“Whether it’s a six-day commercial shoot or a sixyearTV series, the success of it isn’t your responsibility.My job is to make the actor feel comfortableand attractive in front of that camera.”Sometimes, though, the costume design is acentral part of the storytelling, as it was on “Sex& the City,” which Field styled for its entire sixseasons (and for both movies). It was through theHBO series that Field is credited with turningbrands such as Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo andChristian Louboutin into household names.“The fashion of the show began to make an impression,and the writers were very smart,” Fieldsaid. “They hooked into that and started makingshoe sound bites, like ‘I lost my Choos,’ and writinga scene where Carrie cried over a pair of Manolos.”Executive producer Michael Patrick King, whoco-wrote the show and directed both films, saidField’s styling brought an authenticity to the lookof the franchise. “Pat added the knowledge of whatwas real and current in New York that a typicalcostume designer could never have brought becausethey wouldn’t have the hands-on experienceor passion,” King said. “She was daring enough tochange up looks every season depending on whatwas current.”Through her work on “Sex & the City,” Fieldwon two Emmy awards for costuming and becamea sought-after stylist. She then worked on filmslike “The Devil Wears Prada,” for which she wasnominated for an Oscar, and TV’s “Ugly Betty.”Now, Field has come full circle, looking to enrichwhat first got her hooked on the industry. Puttingthe focus on her retail roots, the multitaskeris planning to convert her design studio into anexpanded store by next spring.And while she has accomplished a lot in hercareer in fashion, Field doesn’t plan on slowingdown anytime soon.“I could have walked away a long time ago,turned my business over to my top guys, took mymoney, moved down to my beautiful little apartmentin Florida and watched the ocean,” she said.“If I were to walk away from my work, I’d be dead.My work is my life.”PHOTO: JOHN AQUINO54 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011HALL OF FAMESOLE BROTHERSThe Taricas turned their family business into apowerhouse by keeping a unified front. BY JENNIE BELLJimlar Corp. Co-Presidents Jim andLarry Tarica seem like an effortlessteam, but in fact, their partnershipalmost never happened.In a recent conversation withFootwear News at their New Yorkshowroom, the brothers recalledhow Larry was slow to join the firm founded bytheir parents in 1956.And even after he did, Larry, now 61, lastedJim (left) and Larry Tarica,photographed for FN in theFrye showroom in New Yorkless than two years before announcing plans tobecome a lawyer. It took a serious talk with hiselder brother to make him stay. “I pleaded withhim to just give me one more year,” said Jim, 70.“He agreed to do that, and fortunately, withinthat year, he caught the shoe bug.”Fast-forward 40 years and the brothers havetaken Jimlar to new and unexpected heights,growing and evolving the company from itsinitial role as a footwear importer to being aservice provider to brands suchas American Eagle, a licensee forCoach and Calvin Klein, owner ofthe Frye Boot label and finally tobeing a division of Li & Fung Ltd.At the time of its acquisitionlast year, Jimlar pegged its annualrevenue at $540 million. That’s abig change from the early days.“When I started [in 1962], wewere selling $2 million worth ofshoes,” said Jim. “I never dreamedit would be what it is today.”The changes haven’t alwaysbeen easy, which Larry creditsto the company’s strong valuesand one particularly instructivefamily argument. Early in theircareer together, the brothers wereengaged in a heated debate abouta business strategy. So their parents,losing patience, sequesteredthem in an office until they cameto a concensus.“They said, ‘We don’t care aboutlosing money, just come out ofthat room with one answer,’”recalled Larry. “So we did, andthat really has set the tone for ourrelationship and the relationshipour team members have in thecompany.”As a result, he added, many ofthe changes the firm has seenhave been fairly smooth, includingthe deal with Li & Fung.Jimlar’s new parent agrees. “We have not seenin most of our acquisitions the level of organizationaldepth that they had built around them,”said Rick Darling, president of LF USA. “That’swhy we selected them.”The company’s strategy of presenting a unifiedfront also has extended to its relationships withlicensors and retail partners.Jimlar has worked with Coach for almost 20years, first as a supplier and then as a licensee.“It’s a tremendous partnership between twocompanies that we believe is a model for how twocompanies can act as one,” said Larry. “We, togetherwith Coach, operate the footwear businessas if it’s one company. It’s the longest-existingfootwear license in the shoe industry.”Throughout their partnership with Coach,Larry and Jim said they have been lucky to haveLew Frankfort and Reed Krakoff as partners.“Jim and Larry Tarica are remarkable peoplewho have created a company culture that reflectstheir values of integrity, fairness, compassionand drive for excellence,” said Frankfort.“They treat their employees, customers andpartners as family, which is very unusual, especiallyin our industry.”Since 2004, the company also has been thefootwear licensee for Calvin Klein and itsmany labels.Tom Murry, president and CEO of Calvin KleinInc., noted that he initially approached Jimlarto be a licensee based on the company’s strongreputation. “Jim and Larry have created such asuccessful business largely because they havegreat experience and talent and are very professional,”he said. “Jimlar has helped enhance ourbrands with a strong shoe business that offersexcellent quality, design and value.”The brothers have also found success withFrye, which Jimlar licensed in 1993 and boughtoutright in 1998. The brand reportedly has seenstrong double-digit sales gains in the past severalyears and this summer opened its first store, aflagship in New York, to much fanfare.As Li & Fung’s shoe expert, Jimlar has earnedfurther acclaim with the Rachel Zoe brand, whichit designs, manufactures and sells.Unsurprisingly, the Taricas’ retail partners areenthusiastic about the brothers’ contributions tothe industry — and their individual businesses.“What makes them interesting is that not onlydo they have a wonderful licensing business butthey also have a great private-label group, andthey own Frye,” said Muriel Gonzalez, GMMfor cosmetics, fragrances and shoes at Macy’s.“They’re able to understand the shoe businessfrom many different angles. Anyone like thatcan see the whole picture, and they’re very goodat that.”PHOTO: JOHN AQUINO56 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

Congratulationsto all of the footwear newsaChievement award winnerswe are honored to be a part of a Communitythat is made up of people like you.FNPLATFORM.cOM

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011PAST WINNERSTHE AA LIST1986-20111986Person: Paul FiremanCompany: Allen-EdmondsDesigner: Joan HelpernRetailer: Foot LockerImporter: Fisher Camuto1987Person: Bruce NordstromCompany: TimberlandDesigner: Robert ClergerieRetailer: Macy’sImporter: IntershoeSales Rep: Gordon Owens1988Person: Robert CampeauCompany: L.A. GearDesigner: Fiamma FerragamoRetailer: AvventuraSales Rep: Larry GarrettSupplier: Prime Tanning Co.1989Person: Phil KnightCompany: Sam & LibbyDesigner: Anne KleinRetailer: MagnifeteSales Rep: Mike Goodnough1990Person: Jules SchneiderCompany: K-SwissDesigner: Robert ClergerieRetailer: The Wild PairSales Rep: Larry RichSupplier: Freelonic1991People: Sam and Libby EdelmanCompany: Fisher Camuto GroupDesigner: Paolo BattacchiRetailers: Wal-Mart, BobEllis ShoesSupplier: Implus Corp.1992People: “The Year of the Women”(Ann Aiken, Anavel Caparros,Hilary Fritz, Joan Helpern, SusanItzkowitz, Gail Rothwell, MerleSloss, Kathy Taylor)Company: Deckers Corp.Designer: Manolo BlahnikRetailers: Bakers-Leeds, J. Stephens,Saxon Shoes, Shoe Station,The TannerySupplier: Starensier1993Person: Bill BoettgeCompany: Jimlar Corp.Designer: Ralph LaurenRetailers: Boscov’s DepartmentStore, Overland TradingSupplier: Faytex Corp.1994Person: Noel HordCompany: Ecco USA Inc.Designer: Nathalie MarcianoRetailers: Nine West Retail,Chernin’s ShoesSupplier: Quabaug Corp.1995Person: Tom Clarke, Phil KnightCompany: Wolverine World WideDesigner: Tom FordRetailers: Just for Feet, Larry’s ShoesSupplier: W.L. Gore & Assoc.1996Person: Kenneth ColeCompanies: Clarks Co., Fila USADesigner: Miuccia PradaRetailers: Chernin’s Shoes, SearsSupplier: Prime Tanning Co.1997Person: Angel Martinez2009 Person of the YearTony Hsieh2005 Launch of the Yearwinner Vince Camuto, withLouise CamutoCompany: New BalanceDesigner: Dolce & GabbanaRetailers: Fred Segal Feet, JourneysSupplier: Jones & ViningBold Moves: Buckle My Shoe, Candie’s,Just for Feet1998Person: Neil ColeCompany: Skechers USADesigner: Ernesto EspositoRetailers: Aldo Group, Offspring,Tootsi PlohoundBrand: Adidas AmericaMarketer: VansLaunch: OakleySupplier: DuPont LycraBold Moves: Birkenstock FootprintSandals, Nicholas Deakins for NDUK,Donald Pliner1999Person: Steven DouglassDesigner: Goffredo Fantini1994 Person of the YearNoel Hord2002 Person of the YearStuart WeitzmanRetailers: Banana Republic, JeffreyBrands: Merrell, Steve MaddenMarketer: Tod’sLaunches: Kate Spade, Naked FeetBold Moves: Nike, Nordstrom2000Person: Michael GreenbergCompany: VansDesigner: Giuseppe ZanottiRetailers: Scoop, Sigerson MorrisonBrand: CamperMarketer: Cole HaanLaunches: Jill Stuart, John VarvatosBold Moves: Kerquelen, Nike Shox,Via Spiga2001Person: Rhonda BrownCompany: Steve MaddenDesigner: Sigerson MorrisonRetailers: Diavolina, Shoe CarnivalBrands: Coach, Marc by MarcJacobs, NaturalizerPHOTOS: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES (7)58 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

g®UGG AustraliaYou really know how to sparkleCongratulations from your friends at Dillard’s

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011PAST WINNERSMarketer: RockportLaunches: Bullboxer, Kaki DanielsInternet Business: Global Sports2002Person: Stuart WeitzmanCompany: GBMIDesigner: Holly DunlapRetailers: Alife Rivington Club,Bergdorf GoodmanBrands: Puma, Yves Saint LaurentRive GaucheMarketer: Reebok2003Person: Killick DattaCompany: Brown Shoe Co.Designer: Manolo BlahnikRetailers: The Finish Line, NeimanMarcus, The TanneryBrands: Reebok, Ugg AustraliaHouse: Louis VuittonMarketer: Kenneth ColeLaunches: Keen, Medium2004Person: Matt SerraCompany: Cole HaanDesigner: Bruno FrisoniRetailers: Bloomingdale’s,Sportie LABrands: Frye, Jimmy ChooMarketer: AdidasLaunches: Belle by SigersonMorrison, H HilfigerVivian Infantino Emerging Talent:Ashley Dearborn2005Person: Jeffrey KalinskyCompany: AdidasDesigner: Christian LouboutinRetailers: Nordstrom, Kitson,Zappos.comBrands: Crocs, LacosteMarketers: Aldo, KedsLaunches: Vince Camuto, Imagineby Vince Camuto, Jessica Simpson;L.A.M.B.Vivian Infantino EmergingTalent: Nicholas Kirkwood2006Person: Neil ColeCompany: Steven Madden Ltd.Designer: Pierre HardyRetailers: DSW, Hawley Lane ShoesNewsmaker: FederatedBrands: Converse, VansHouse: Michael KorsAldo Bensadoun,founder of 1998 Retailerof the Year Aldo Group2006 Designer of the YearPierre Hardy

AIR-CITY INC WARMLY CONGRATULATESVINCE CAMUTOBRAND OF THE YEARFOR FOOTWEAR NEWS ACHIEVEMENTAWARDSwww.air-city.com

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011PAST WINNERSMarketer: Payless ShoeSourceLaunches: Piperlime, StarburyVivian Infantino EmergingTalent: Courtney Crawford2007Person: Matt RubelCompany: Deckers Outdoor Corp.Designer: Miuccia PradaRetailers: Saks Fifth Avenue,FootcandyNewsmaker: CrocsBrands: Tory Burch, MerrellHouse: PPRMarketer: Macy’sLaunches: Jonathan Kelsey,Mary NortonVivian Infantino EmergingTalent: Max KibardinGreen Award: Timberland2008Person: Angel MartinezCompany: Brown ShoeDesigner: Nicholas KirkwoodRetailers: Target, David Z,Net-a-porter.comBrands: Jimmy Choo, HunterHouse: LanvinMarketer: NikeLaunches: Jerome C. Rousseau,Under ArmourVivian Infantino Emerging Talent:Chrissie MorrisGreen Award: BrooksPhilanthropy Award: Blake Mycoskie2009Person: Tony HsiehCompany: Steven Madden Ltd.Designer: Giuseppe ZanottiRetailers: Kohl’s, Gilt GroupeBrands: Sam Edelman, Sperry Top-SiderMarketer: Iconix BrandGroup Inc.Launches: Florsheim by DuckieBrown, Skechers’ Shape-ups,Tabitha SimmonsVivian Infantino EmergingTalent: Alexandre Birman2010Person: Christian LouboutinCompany: The Jones GroupDesigner: Brian AtwoodRetailers: Selfridges, The TanneryBrands: Toms Shoes, VibramMarketer: ReebokLaunch: Ivanka TrumpVivian Infantino EmergingTalent: Charlotte Olympia DellalPhilanthropy Award: Soles4Souls2008 Philanthropy Awardwinner Blake Mycoskie2011Lifetime Achievement: ManoloBlahnikCompany: Steven Madden Ltd.Designer: Nicholas KirkwoodRetailers: HSN, Ron White ShoesBrands: Ugg, Vince CamutoMarketer: AdidasLaunches: B Brian Atwood, RachelZoeVivian Infantino Emerging Talent:Burak UyanIcon Award for Social Impact:Kenneth Cole

congratulations peggyfor receiving theT. KENYON HOLLY AWARDand all of your tremendous effortsover ten years withTWO TEN FOUNDATION

FN ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS 2011HALL OF FAMEINDUSTRYLEGENDS19881995L.L. BeanHarold AlfordHorst DasslerJoe FamolareSalvatore Ferragamo Dick JacobsonBeth LevinePeter LunderHerbert LevineBen Peck2002Robert CampbellAnne DavisJim DavisSteven NicholsWalter Steiger2003André AssousGeoffrey BloomBeverly FeldmanTinker HatfieldStephane Kélian2004Don MunroHal PenningtonDonald Pliner1989Bernard EdisonJulian EdisonDavid EvinsTwo Ten foundersRoger Vivier1990Philip BarachThomas BataDavid HelpernJoan HelpernLionel Levey1991Murray FriedmanPhil KnightJerry MillerNordstrom family1992Arnold HiattFrank RooneyArthur SchwartzMichael SilversteinStanley Silverstein1993Enzo AngioliniCharles ColeFaye KuntzmanIrving KuntzmanSunny OnishJerry Turner1994Fred BloomNancy KnoxHarold RowenRob Strasser1996Ron AnsinPaul FiremanEllis Safdeye1997Manolo BlahnikMargot FraserVivian InfantinoJohn Justin1998Ann AikenFiamma FerragamoJacques LevineAndrea PfisterSidney Swartz1999Diego Della ValleFawn EvensonJerome FisherEli FooterDick Silverman2000Michael AppellBill BowermanKenneth ColeMorris KalinskyLouis PozezShaol PozezIan Wright2001Etienne AignerBill BoettgeVince CamutoRobert GreenbergStuart Weitzman2005Robert ClergerieBrian CookRoland JourdanBarbara Schneider-Levy2006Ernesto EspositoJodi FisherPhyllis FooterWayne Weaver2007Tim O’DonovanLuigino RossiPatti SilverStanley SilverJack Silvera2008Arsho BaghsarianLance ClarkAlan CohenFranco Fieramosca2009George MalkemusMatt SerraJohn Shanley2010Dawn MelloJack MinukBurt Tansky2011Patricia FieldJim TaricaLarry Tarica

Congratulations steveon this great accomplishment.from your partner atSteVe maDDen CanaDa.you will alwayS be ourDriving ForCe!STEVE MADDEN CANADA

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marketplacewomen’s × JUnIoRs’ × men’s × comfoRt × chIldRen’s × AthletIcSweetRideIn its 10 years, Dolce VitaFootwear has whippedup impressive growth,especially for its flagshipbrand (seen here).For more, Go To PaGe 72photo: GEoRGE ChINSEENOVEMBER 28, 2011 | | 69FN1128P69.indd 6911222011162404 Approved with warnings11/22/11 4:23 PM

MARKETPLACEWOMEN’S ×5 QuestionsDefiningDiegoWith new retail partners and bigcollaborations, the designer is onthe move. by jacquelyn lewisDiego Dolcini is taking his brand tonew territories.The Italian designer’s mostrecent endeavors include increasinghis namesake label’sretail presence internationally(he added Nordstrom in theU.S.), relocating to a larger, morecontemporary studio in Bologna,Italy — a move Dolcini said helped clarify hisdesign aesthetic — and joining the MassimoBonini showroom in Milan.“Bonini is very powerful when it comes topromotion,” Dolcini said. “We are having a verygood, strong reaction from the clients.”In addition, Dolcini is collaborating on a fall’12 capsule collection with Italian tire manufacturer-turned-fashionretailer Pirelli. While thedesigner said he couldn’t reveal details yet, heshared that the collection will include five “veryspecial” fall styles and debut at Milan FashionWeek in February.“Pirelli is a big [opportunity] for me, and it’svery exclusive,” Dolcini said. “They are very powerfulin fashion because they produce the PirelliCalendar and have always worked with the bestphotographers and models.”Adding to his busy schedule, Dolcini also continuesto serve as a consultant to high-end labelsPucci and Casadei.During a recent trip to New York, the multi-tasking designer talked with FootwearNews about his next big markets, celebrityinfluence and his fascination with the lateSteve Jobs.1How do you balance high art with functionalityand accessibility?DD: Art, for me, is just a [starting point] toinspire [my designs]. Shoes are not art, but [I dotry to create shoes] not just to wear and walk inbut also to enjoy because they are beautiful. Ithink about prices because I think about real life.I have high price points, but I try to keep themaccessible. No designer wants to talk about [being]commercial, but I do think about openingup possibilities for people [with more moderatebudgets] who want to wear my creations.2With your biggest markets in the U.S.,Europe and Russia, where else do you seeopportunities for growth?DD: The next markets are China and India. Istarted [doing business in China] only a yearand-a-halfago, and I have four big clients there.Today, [Chinese consumers] are more mature,and they [understand] luxury. Maybe a few yearsago, they knew about Prada and Gucci becausethey were big names, but now they have morechoices because they understand what theywant. They are very specific. It’s the same inIndia, but [there they have] more of a sensibilityfor luxury.3How is business going in your Milanflagship boutique?DD: It’s good, but it’s not really “wow.” It’sa little bit quiet because my collection is moreinternational. It’s not really local; it’s not reallyMilanese. But when people want somethingdifferent, they do come to me. When we [openedin 2008], the timing was challenging. It was avery difficult year [economically], so it’s hard tomeasure success.4Rihanna, Madonna and Jennifer Lopezare just a few of the celebrities who havebeen spotted in your shoes. How importantis celebrity attention to your business?DD: Celebrities have always been important inthe fashion world, but now it’s a phenomenon.Everyone is paying attention. Celebrities are morepowerful [when it comes to influencing consumers].Big brands used to have beautiful, iconicmodels [in their campaigns], and now they usecelebrities. In the past, I had [more] opportunitiesto meet celebrities, and it was more casual. Nowthey have agents and stylists around them. [WhenI was starting out], the celebrity saw the shoes andcontacted me. I remember when Julia Roberts invitedme for a weekend in Venice because she sawmy shoes in a magazine and wanted to get to knowme. Now it’s more work. You need to push peopleand keep calling.5Speaking of celebrities, who are yourmajor influences?DD: [My muse] is Keira Knightley. She’sreally natural and chic. She’s dark and she’s like anangel at the same time. She’s always contemporary;she’s always “now.” I also like Nicole Kidman.They are not conventionally beautiful — they arebeautiful because they have character. I thinkabout this kind of woman when I am designing. Ialso always think about them in acontemporary context, in real life.[When it comes to role models],I’m fascinated by people likeSteve Jobs, who started fromnothing but have verygood ideas and a passionfor what they do.I think [Jobs]was a geniusnot just inbusiness butalso for hisvision of life.A spring ’12platform wedgePhotos: CoURtEsY of DIEGo DoLCINI70 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P70.indd 701121201114032511/21/11 2:02 PM

Alesandra by Boutique 9The industry’s best and most popular show.THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET | FEBRUARY 18-20, 2012COBB GALLERIA CENTRE & RENAISSANCE WAVERLY HOTELatlantashoemarket.com

MARKETPLACEWOMEN’S ×ProfileGood LifeWith a decade under its belt, Dolce Vita is aiming to become alifestyle force with expanded product and more stores. by michelle tayFor Dolce Vita Footwear, life is indeedsweet.The New York-based company celebratedits 10th year last month and hasgrown from a women’s shoe brand knownfor cute sandals to a lifestyle label makingthree lines of footwear and two apparel collections.The company has gone from one account — withNordstrom — in its first year to more than 900accounts domestically today. And it counts hip independentssuch as Urban Outfitters and Shopbop.com as important retailers.Additionally, in February, the company will bowits third store in New York: a 2,200-sq.-ft. spaceon Elizabeth Street offering Dolce Vita footwear,which is 85 percent of the business, and the brand’sapparel. Another Dolce Vita shop is already nearbyon Ludlow Street, as well as one for the firm’s men’slabel, J.D. Fisk.Yet the famously media-shy duo who co-ownthe company, Nick Lucio and Van Lamprou, don’tconsider these events turning points.Swirling a tumbler of bourbon at the showroom,Lamprou told Footwear News, “We’re really happythat the consumer is embracing us a little further.Is our business healthily growing? Yes. Do I want toquantify that? Not really.”Dolce Vita’s president, Matt Rush, said the brandhas seen strong double-digit growth each year overthe last few years, a trend Lucio and Lamprou at-tribute to the fact that they’re attuned to the wayyoung women style themselves.“We’ve always worked hard to make a big trend alittle bit different and more interesting,” said Lamprou.“The consumer is becoming more familiarwith us, [trusting us to] deliver the right trend; theretailer is, too.”Indeed, at Bloomingdale’s, Debbie King, VP andDMM of women’s footwear, said the shoes alwayshave a twist, which differentiates them in the marketplace.“Our Dolce Vita business has been verystrong,” she added.Bill Lawson, owner of Shoe-Inn, said Dolce Vita’sstrength also lies in being quick to market, havingon-time deliveries and offering new looks. “It’sgood stuff at the right price points, which is thetrick to any business. We started buying from themalmost from the beginning. We’re certainly going totry to increase our business with them,” he said.Still, few success stories come without plottwists. In 2006, when the firm was manufacturingsome private-label footwear for Nine Westand Steve Madden, among others, Madden filed alawsuit against Dolce Vita, claiming it sold shoesof similar designs to Madden’s competitors, as wellas Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Urban Outfitters,Shopbop.com and Zappos.com. Madden allegedunfair competition, unjust enrichment, civil conspiracy,trade disparagement, fraud and violation offederal intellectual-property-rights law.Dolce Vita’sNew York showroomSpring ’12 stylesfrom Dolce Vita’sJ.D. Fisk men’s lineAt the time, Lucio and Lamprou’s lawyer, JeromeKatz of Chadbourne & Parke, replied that “thecomplaint filed by Steven Madden Ltd. is entirelyfrivolous, and we will vigorously contest it. In fact,it is Steve Madden that owes Dolce Vita millionsof dollars for unpaid bills, among other things, andDolce Vita plans to file counterclaims against SteveMadden in short order.” A month later, the casewas dismissed with prejudice and without cost toeither party.Today, Dolce Vita continues its private-labelbusiness for clients it will not name. “We makethem for brands that don’t conflict with anythingwe already have,” said Lamprou. “But I daresay wewouldn’t be here today without Steve.”The firm also learned valuable lessons from itsboutique on Melrose Place in Los Angeles, whichopened in 2006 and closed five years later withoutturning a profit. “It’s difficult to run things fromacross the country,” said Lamprou. “The idea for theElizabeth Street store is to be a blueprint for whatworks well and be able to manage it properly fromall aspects before rolling it out to different placesacross the U.S.”For 2012, Dolce Vita is focused on finding opportunitiesfor distribution overseas, although theproduct is already sold at some retailers in Canada,Australia, New Zealand and the United Arab Emirates.Company execs also want to aggressively growthe year-old men’s business, which comprises lessthan 10 percent of total revenue.“We’re in about 75 accounts for men now,” saidRush. “Could we have 900? [I don’t see] why not.”Photos: GEoRGE ChINsEE72 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P72.indd 721122201116220411/22/11 4:21 PM

MARKETPLACEWOMEN’S ×First LookJewel-embellishedankle-strap wedgePeep-toe platform withfabric-covered heelWoven leather wedgewith dip-dyed corkStrappy wedgewith metallicdetailColor-blockedpeep-toe platformTHEDESIGNEREric Rutberg started inthe industry workingsummers in his grandfather’sConnecticut shoestore, Prague’s. Aftercollege, he went on toserve as lead designerfor Titan Industries Inc.,where he helped createshoes for labels suchas Betsey Johnson andJLo by Jennifer Lopez.The 25-year footwearveteran launched hisprivate-label businessin 2008.In the ClearWith Eric Rutberg Transparent, one San Francisco-based footwear designeris stepping out from behind the scenes. BY JACQUELYN LEWISBrand names are not alwayswhat they seem.Eric Rutberg has dubbedhis new footwear brand EricRutberg Transparent, butthe designer’s selection oftall platforms, stilettos and wedges areall about vibrant hues mixed with richtextures.“I’m a color guy,” said Rutberg,whose debut, 19-style spring collectionis poised to hit retailers, including NeimanMarcus, Zappos.com and 16 boutiquesacross the country (from FredSegal in Los Angeles to Shoe Box inNew York), in February. “You’ll rarelysee a black, plain shoe in my line.”Price points range from $185 to$295, and Rutberg said his target customeris a woman between the ages of26 and 40.While the collection, produced inChina with materials sourced fromItaly, includes the occasional flat, Rutbergsaid he likes to focus on soaringstatement heels.“[My customer] is fierce. She is fearless,and she isn’t afraid of height,” thedesigner added.The inspiration behind the SanFrancisco-based line is the brand’shome base. “California women arealways showing off their legs, and thereis a sensibility happening in Californiathat I really respond to,” said Rutberg,who also looked to classic Americanaimages and other sources for influence.For Rutberg, unveiling this newline was a coming-out of sorts. Beforestarting Transparent, he had workedbehind the scenes in the footwearbusiness for 25 years, serving as a leadfootwear designer for Titan IndustriesInc., on brands such as Bebe, L.A.M.B.and Badgley Mischka before moving onto build his own private-label business,which is still going strong.Said Rutberg: “Launching my owncollection was an effort to redefinewho I was and just be transparent ineverything I did.”THEINSPIRATIONThe aesthetics of California,Americana, midcenturyfurniture designand “The UnbearableLightness of Being” areall interpreted in thebright colors and starkshapes of the new line,said Rutberg.THE BUZZTransparent has landedin a diverse mix ofaccounts, includingNeiman Marcus, Zappos.com and boutiquessuch as Miami’s Koko& Palenki and EnzymeShoe Lab in Brooklyn,N.Y. “We liked the freshnew look and boldcolors,” said Jill Ziarno, abuyer at Enzyme ShoeLab, which ordered threestyles for spring. “It’s anice selection.”PHOTOS: SHOES: GEORGE CHINSEE; RUTBERG: COURTESY OF DESIGNER; LOS ANGELES: GETTY IMAGES74 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011

MARKETPLACEwomen’s × Closet CaseA ThingFor BlingBridget Marquardt opens her shoe closet andshares her love for bedazzling. by gerald floresWhen it comes tofootwear, BridgetMarquardt is afashionable girlnext door.The formerPlayboy bunnyand reality staris a lover of all things dainty. “Mypersonal style is very feminine,” shesaid. “I love pink and girly stuff withlots of color.”Although Marquardt has hightaste when it comes to her stilettos— with luxury labels such as Pradaand Christian Louboutin — she alsolikes mixing it up. “I don’t mindbuying a shoe when there is somethingcool or different about it,” shesaid. “Whether it’s shopping at SteveMadden or getting something fromWild Pair, you never know whereyou’ll find something you like.”The TV personality, who recentlysigned on as a spokesperson for thecondom brand Durex, likes to turnshopping into quality time with herboyfriend. The couple can oftenbe found browsing their favoritedepartment stores in Los AngelesBridget Marquardtand Las Vegas.“We have a great relationshipbecause he likes to shop. In fact, Ithink he likes to shop more thanI do,” Marquardt said. “I’m prettyquick because I can walk into a storeand tell instantly if there’s somethingI like or if I’m just going to hitthe road.”Pairs owned: More than 300Brands represented: ChristianLouboutin, Converse, Dolce Vita,Jimmy Choo, Prada, Reebok andSteve Madden, among othersGo-to pairs: “My black Louboutinsin crepe satin that go witheverything. And I have a pair ofDolce Vita slingbacks in nude.Whenever I’m in doubt, I know oneof those pairs will go with my outfit.”Most unique pairs: Hot-pinkBarbie Louboutins. “When I sawthem, I said, ‘Oh, my God! I haveto have these shoes, even thoughI don’t know what I’ll wear themwith.’ I also have a maroon pair ofPrada peep-toes that change colorwhen I look at them. I love juststaring at them on my feet becauseof the way they change colorswhen I move my foot around.I’ve been caught before, just staringat them.”Favorite places to shop: Macy’s,Barneys, Nordstrom. “I love theNordstrom at the Topanga Mall [inCanoga Park, Calif.] because theshoe selection is incredible. All theNordstroms have good selections,but this one is amazing. ”Most expensive pair: “MyLouboutin knee-high boots. Theywere $1,600. I get a lot of use out ofthem. They go in the winter with ashort dress or over skinny jeans, soI can wear them quite a bit. Theyaren’t super-comfortable, though, soI have to determine if I’m going to bedoing a lot of standing.”Best for the gym: “For workingout, I have a pair of Reebok ZigTechs— the new ones that have the crazybottoms. My boyfriend custommadea pair for me [online]. So it’s areally cute black-and-hot-pink pairthat says, ‘Honey Bee,’ on the back.I wear those for working out, andthen, of course, I have Converse foreveryday running around.”Preferred looks for men: “[Myboyfriend] always wears Converseand Creative Recreation shoes. He’svery casual. He wears skinny jeanswith tennis shoes and a black T-shirt.I like that look.”Sexiest pair: “Oh, gosh, it’s a realtoss-up. Probably those hot-pinkBarbie Louboutins. But it dependson my mood. It could be those blackboots, too.”Biggest shoe regret: None. “I loveall shoes. I don’t have any regretsabout buying any of my shoes, otherthan a little bit of remorse because ofthe expense of some of them.”Must-have trend right now: “I likethe sparkly look. I love bedazzlingmy own shoes. I totally get out all thecrystals, jewels and glue and sit downto do my own custom-made shoes togo with my outfits.”Favorite shopping cities: “I knowthey have incredible shoppingin New York, but I haven’t foundmy style there yet. I haven’t spentenough time to find those cuteboutiques. So I’d definitely sayLos Angeles and Las Vegas. I knowthose two cities really well.”PHOTO: cOurTesy Of deja jOrdan76 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P76.indd 761121201114062611/21/11 2:05 PM

MARKETPLACEWOMEN’S ×Designer PassionsPiecing ItTogetherQuilting has inspired Jessie Randall to take hershoe designs in new directions. by jacquelyn lewisFootwear designer Jessie Randall hasbeen knitting and sewing for as long asshe can remember, but the birth of hertwin boys, Casper and Liam, in 2007,sparked a passion for quilting, and inturn, ushered in a new era of creativitywhen it comes to creating shoes.“I’ve always been really interested in learningnew craft skills,” said the Loeffler Randallpartner and creative director, taking time outat the New York showroom to display one ofher latest projects, a blue, Liberty-print quiltshe made for her youngest child, 1-year-oldHarry. “[Crafting] was definitely part of my lifegrowing up. My mom is an amazing knitter, andmy grandmother was a knitter. My grandfathermade wooden toys. Everyone in my family hassomething they do.”When Randall started her own family with herhusband and business partner, Brian Murphy,she took a quilting class as a way to get out of thehouse for a few hours a week while on maternityleave. Since then, she has pieced together morethan 10 quilts and blankets, including a childsizequilt for each of her three sons.Randall also has kept up with her knitting andother crafts. Among her favorite free-time activitiesis potato printing: making stamps fromthe root vegetable. In addition, she and Murphydesign custom T-shirts for their children andtheir friends for birthday parties and otherspecial occasions.“I love crafting because it enables me to havefun and be creative without any kind of pressure,”Randall said. “It allows me a freedom thatI don’t necessarily have in my work life.”It’s no surprise, then, that her passion forquilting crosses over into her work life, comingout through subtleties in her footwear designs,including LoefflerRandall’s fall ’11bridal collection,which launched inAugust.The line is a departurefrom theultra-traditionalbridal looks nowon the market andincludes surprisingtwists such asa lace-up stilettoin midnightvelvet, stilettosin metallic lizardand snake-printedleather and meshlace-up booties.“[Quilting]definitely influences my work,” Randall said.“Techniques that I use in my crafts — for giftsor random little projects for the boys — leadto great ideas. [Loeffler Randall has] had a lotof success with ornamentation and coming upwith new ways of manipulating leather andfabrics.”The designer pointed out the Zuri Rosette Stiletto,a satin pump with a tonal tulle pouf on thetoe box, as an example. “The rosette came fromus just playing around with a piece of tulle,”Randall said. “One thing I love about crafting isthat you’re actually manipulating the materialwith your hands instead of relying on a sketch.You can come up with a different result thanyou would if you were just sketching.”Handling different fabrics also has givenRandall a penchant for mixing and matching. “Ilove putting together different prints,” she said.Jessie Randallshows off a quiltshe made for her son“That’s definitely something we’ve been workingwith here at Loeffler Randall. For this pastfall, we had a shoe called the Bree, [a wallabychukka], that combined different patterns. I’mgetting more and more into prints and patternsin my work. I love coming up with printed shoesthat someone could wear with a printed dress orprinted skirt.”As inspiring as quilting might be for Randall,she said it can be difficult to carve out time for itbetween running a business and taking care ofthree children (including one who never sleeps,according to the designer). Even so, she’s rarelywithout a quilt or another crafty project.“I’m sort of doing my crafts these days hidingon the side of the bed, hoping that [baby Harry]doesn’t wake up,” Randall said with a laugh. “It’sreally hard [to make time], but it’s such a necessaryoutlet for me.”Photo: ChRIStIAN GRAttAN78 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P78.indd 781121201114003811/21/11 2:00 PM

Congratulations toEASTMAN GROUP

MARKETPLACEWOMEN’S × BuzzHoliday CheerTibi and Del Toro have teamedup again to welcome the holidayseason. The brands will offer threelim ited-edition velvet slipperstyles featuring signature characterBilly Cat, as well as a greenalien drawing, as an extension toTibi x Del Torotheir falllaunch. Whendesigning,Tibi founderAmy Smilovicsaid shefocuses on creating fun styles. “Theslippers bring that quirky elementto an otherwise polished look,” shesaid. The collection, which wasproduced in Italy, will sell for $375at the Tibi boutique in New Yorkand online at Tibi.com.Heralding HeritageSebago is ramping up its women’sofferings for spring via a collaborationwith designer and Boojifootwear-brand founder MdotBooji. The Mdot for Sebago styles,set to hit Nordstrom and Sebago’se-commerce site in February,will retail for $95 to $200. “Thecollaboration marks our ongoingeffort to expand our women’sofferings,” said Sebago CEO GaryMalamet. “We have high expectationsfor how it will resonate withour consumer.” Booji noted thatthe line is meant to honor theclassic heritage of Sebago whileupdating the look in a fresh way,with 12 styles of fashion sneakersand boat looks.Mdot forSebagoOutstanding!Congratulations, Vince Camuto,on being named Brand of the Year.We at CIT are honored to have theopportunity to work with you. Yourcreativity and dedication are aninspiration to us all. Best wishesfor continued success.”JOHN DALY, PRESIDENTMARC HELLER, NORTHEAST REGIONAL MANAGERCIT TRADE FINANCECamuto Group is a fashion industry icon.That's why the company has earned therespect of the retail, apparel and footwearindustries. And that's why CIT is proud tohave worked with Vince Camuto, BobGalvin and their team since the company'sinception in 2001.CIT.com/TradeFinance800-248-3240Resort LivingLoeffler Randall’s third — andlargest — resort collection hitretailers this month. The 33women’s styles include espadrilles,flats, stilettos and boots inembossed snake, suede and raffia,ranging in price from $250 to$695. Retailers include Saks.com,Barneys, Shopbop.com and Intermix,as well as Loeffler Randall’se-commerce site. “The inspirationfor resort ’12 was a deconstructionof nautical elements,” said JessieRandall, the brand’s founderand creative director. “We wereinterested in the ropey feeling ofespadrilles and the graphicnessof stripes that translated intoclean straps across the foot. Theshape of the stiletto toe echoesthe prow of a ship, and the mignontwists resemble fraying rope.”The new collection is also thecompany’s first resort offering toreceive a marketing campaignphoto shoot.Bob GalvinPresidentCamuto GroupVince CamutoChief Designer and CEOCamuto GroupCredit ProtectionFactoringDebt RestructuringWorking CapitalImport/Export FinancingGrowth FinancingLoefflerRandallspring ’12Photos: Courtesy of brands© 2011 CIT Group Inc. CIT and the CIT logo are registered service marks of CIT Group Inc.FN1128P80.indd 801121201114005411/21/11 1:59 PM

McCarter & English, LLPCongratulatesSteve Maddenfor being awardedCompany of the Yearwww.mccarter.comOUR CLIENTS DO GREAT THINGSWE GET THE ASSIST.BOSTON HARTFORD NEW YORK NEWARK PHILADELPHIA STAMFORD WILMINGTON

MARKETPLACEjuNiorS’ × TrendTribalDanceEthnic looks offer an edgyalternative to traditional floralprints for spring. These stylesfeature a variety of mixedmaterials, bold colors andNavajo-inspired patterns.Peep-toestiletto withrope bottomby CHiNESELAuNDrYBLoWFiSHMALiBu’sopen-toeespadrillewith bowroCK &CANDYBY ZiGi’smulticoloredespadrille flatGeometricplatform withwool fabric andstructured heelby MiCHAELANToNioCork wedge withankle wrap byFErGALiCiouSBY FErGiEMiNNEToNKA’sT-strap sandalwith beadingPhoto: StePhen Sullivan82 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P82.indd 821121201113593711/21/11 1:58 PM

gCongratulationsSteve MaddenCompany of the YearFrom your friends at Dillard’s

MARKETPLACEMEN’S ×Retail SpotlightChain ReactionNew York specialty retailer Eliot Rabin hopes to trigger new saleswith his men’s footwear store. by barbara schneider-levyAfter nearly 35 years on the New Yorkretail scene, Eliot Rabin is steppinginto footwear — boots first. Hisupscale specialty chain, Peter Elliot,which sells men’s, women’s and boys’ apparel andaccessories, last month opened a fourth location,Peter Elliot Boots, Etc.“I never wanted to be a shoe [retailer]. Everybodydoes shoes,” said the store owner. “But I’vefound a niche with great rain and hiking [styles].”Although Rabin admits it’s a tough time tolaunch a new venture, he said he is confidentthat men will dip into their pockets for the rightproduct. He predicted that the 750-sq.-ft. store,located on Madison Avenue, could eventuallygenerate $1,000 per square foot a year. “At somepoint, the economy comes out of a recession,” hesaid. “People get frustrated [not] buying.” AndRabin, who caters to a high-end customer, notedthat the luxe market remains relatively stable.As a result, the store stocks a diverse mix ofbrands, including Wolverine’s No. 1883 and 1000Mile collections, Dr. Martens, Aigle and theSpanish line Carmina. In addition, the shop is thefirst and only New York retailer to offer high-endWestern boot brand Back at the Ranch. “Peoplelove [Western] boots. They’re an American tradition,”Rabin said. “Every guy in the back of hispsyche would love to be a cowboy.”Located within walking distance of Rabin’sThe footwear selection atPeter Elliot Boots, Etc.other three Upper East Side stores — Peter ElliotMen, Peter Elliot Women and Peter Elliot Blue— the new boot shop is attracting many of thesame customers. It also sits next to a barber shop,which should add to the traffic flow, Rabin said.And with the closing earlier this year of legendaryNew York Western-wear retailer Billy Martin,there is an opportunity to pick up some of thatbusiness.The Back at the Ranch brand, whose productsretail from $800 to $15,000 for a full alligatorstyle, is the new store’s core line. The brand’sfounder and designer, Wendy Lane Henry, hashosted a series of trunk shows at Peter ElliotBoots, Etc. and said the store allows her to betterreach existing New York customers. “I have somany customers already living here,” said Henry.“I knew I had a built-in audience.” To make surethe Peter Elliot staff understood how to properlyfit the boots, Henry invited store manager VickyMavromatis to attend fitting training at Henry’sSanta Fe, N.M., store.To appeal to a wider audience, Rabin hasrounded out the store’s mix with more traditionalshoes from Allen-Edmonds and Martin Dingman,and he plans to add fleece-lined drivingmocs by French brand Chapal. He also stocksnovelty styles from Native and African-madeOliberté, as well as private-label cycling shoes.If customers still can’t find what they’re lookingfor, Rabin will fill special orders through threecustom shoemakers in the city.When selecting the product mix, Rabin puts anemphasis on American-made footwear. “Peopleare starting to make things here again,” he said,noting that extreme price differences no longerexist between U.S. and Asian goods. “I’m an advocateof made-in-the-U.S. There are wonderfullycrafted things here.”And when it comes to his European labels,Rabin said he looks for collections with a strongheritage, such as Dr. Martens.Steve Johnson, a regional account manager forDr. Martens, said the brand’s made-in-Englandproduct fits well at Peter Elliot. “We utilize U.K.[leather] suppliers for this product, makingthese items interesting to consumers,” he said.“The store’s [uptown location] is perfect for this,[thanks to the upscale clientele].”And because Rabin has a history of sellingclothing and accessories, about 20 percent ofthe new store’s mix includes non-footwear itemssuch as Agave denim, Montclair and Willensteynouterwear, and private-label duffle coats with alligatortoggle closings. It even sells special-orderBroncks Black bicycles.Next, Rabin is eyeing women’s boots. He currentlyoffers a selection of ladies’ styles from Backat the Ranch, and since the store’s opening, thewomen’s business has been a surprise success.“We’re getting demand from women,” said theretailer, who plans to expand that category.OwnerEliot RabinPHOTOS: GEORGE CHINSEE84 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P84.indd 841121201113595311/21/11 1:58 PM

MARKETPLACEMEN’S × 5 QuestionsTrackRecordAthletic industry veteran Rob Langstaff is off andrunning with men’s brand Ryz. by barbara schneider-levyRob Langstaff, founder and CEOof men’s brand Ryz, is doing whathe does best: bringing athleticinspiredcomfort into fashionfootwear. The former presidentof Adidas USA and Adidas Japanlaunched his Portland, Ore.-basedbrand in 2008 with the idea ofmarrying contemporary shoe stylingwith minimal running shoe technology.Recognizing early on that competition in themen’s market can be tough, Langstaff said hezeroed in on a target audience. “[Our customer is]an early adopter who understands fashion, sportsand music,” the executive said. “He’s a professionalor independent businessman. He knows hiswine and coffee and has a second-degree black beltin karate or judo.”In just three years, Ryz, retailing for $110 to $175,has garnered distribution in a range of retailers,including Endless.com and Moxsie.com, as wellas boutiques such as Johnny Sole in Portland,Ore., and Shoe Studio in Augusta, Ga. The brand,whose shoes run up to a size 16, also has found aniche within the extended-sizes business, withindependents including Friedman’s in Atlantaand Big Shoes in Austin, Texas. And to capture aneven wider audience, Ryz is prepping a companionwomen’s line for spring ’13.With the recent trend toward dressing up,Langstaff said he expects his men’s business togain even more momentum in the seasons ahead.“The TV show ‘Mad Men’ has helped men relate toa time when they wanted to look a little smoother,have a little more swagger,” he said. “A man cango a long way with brown and black shoes. Throwin some subtle elements or change a material’stexture, and the most discerning man can beswayed into adding a few more pairs of shoes to hiswardrobe.”Here, Langstaff talks about his days as a competitiverunner and his mission to encourage men tostep up their style.1What is the most valuabledesign element you’ve brought to Ryzfrom the athletic market?RL: Material innovation. The athletic industry iscontinually developing new materials that helpathletes run faster and jump higher while reducingchance of injury. We’ve taken compression-moldedEVA, added other features to it and implemented itin a dress shoe. [We’ve] created a shoe that weighsjust 9 ounces and is amazingly comfortable. Thefashion industry is sometimes a bit slow to adoptmaterial innovations. We believe we can carve out aniche by being innovative here.2Did your running background make youthink differently about footwear?RL: As a former runner, I was always concernedabout the impact my dress shoes had on myability to recover from the 70-plus miles a week Iwas running. As I was ramping up my training in1984, I started having problems with the bottomsof my feet, which I attributed to standing all day intraditional dress shoes [with] leather outsoles andwood heels. That year, although I qualified and ranin the NCAA championships, I missed qualifyingfor the Olympic trials by less than a second.3Ryz’s spring ’12Stanton styleYou describe your collection as minimal.How have you incorporated that philosophyinto the line?RL: We saw what was happening in the minimalrunning category, tested the product and likedthe natural feel. Knowing that this came from flexgrooves in the outsole, we specifically designed aestheticallypleasing lines around the metatarsal thatallow the foot to move naturally. We didn’t pack inlots of foams, reinforcements, cushioning gel or air.That allowed us to focus on reducing weight andcreating comfort and breathability.4Ryz is still lesser known in footwear.How are you competing with the higherprofilebrands?RL: Being under the radar is fine for us right now.We want to keep distribution tight and focus onaccounts that are looking to differentiate themselvesfrom the chains. [We want to] partner withretailers, listen to them and continue to improveour product. We really want to show that “wow”factor and ensure our product delivers on [ourcomfort] promise. Social networking — peopleleaving comments on our Facebook page sayinghow much they love our stuff — is great PR. We alsohave a placement agency in Los Angeles that hasgotten our shoes on “Glee,” “Leverage” and otherTV programs.5Do you believe comfort and style can livetogether in one shoe?RL: Yes. One of the reasons I wanted tofocus on the stylized comfort category is becauseI saw that America was becoming more and morecasual. I had lived in Europe and Japan for almosttwo decades and gotten used to a more formalstyle of dressing. I came back to the U.S. andcouldn’t believe people were getting on airplanesin tank tops and basketball shorts. I understoodthe desire for comfort, but I thought we justlooked so sloppy as a nation. So Ryz is my contributionto the American way of dressing.Photos: CoURtEsY oF RYZ86 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P86.indd 861121201113582111/21/11 1:56 PM

CONGRATULATIONS ON BEING NAMED COMPANY OF THE YEARACT♥ʼsFROM YOUR WEST COAST PARTNERSACT FULFILLMENT CENTERDistribution & Warehousing(909) 930-9083http://www.actfulfillment.com

MARKETPLACEMEN’S ×TrendLeather chukka withmatching sole byPAUL SMITHGreenGiantsHigh-end men’sbrands are headingfor new pastures thisspring. With huesranging from subduedolive to bright kelly,these looks maketraditional silhouettescutting edge.GRAVATI’s tassel loaferwith contrast stitchingSALVATOREFERRAGAMO’swoven kiltie withbuckle detailLaceless suedeoxford byFLORSHEIM BYDUCKIE BROWNTassel loaferwith stackedheel byCHURCH’SPhoto: thomas Iannaccone88 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P88.indd 881121201113582111/21/11 1:56 PM

Congratulations:Lifetime Achievement Award RecipientManolo BlahnikCompany of the YearSteve MaddenRetailer of the YearHSNBrands of the YearVince Camuto / UGGDesigner of the YearNicholas KirkwoodMarketer of the YearAdidasLaunches of the YearB Brian Atwood / Rachel ZoeVivian Infantino Emerging TalentBurak UyanIndependent Retailer of the YearRon White ShoesIcon Award for Social ImpactKenneth ColeHall of FamePatricia Field / Jim & Larry TaricaFFANY is proud to sponsor

MARKETPLACEMEN’S ×ProfileWalk-Over’s U.S.production is akey selling pointPast PerfectH.H. Brown’s Heritage Shoe Group is putting a fresh spin onvintage dressing. by barbara schneider-levyThe Heritage Shoe Group at H.H.Brown is preparing for the future bylooking to its past.“When the economy is tough,people return to things they can relateto,” said James Rowley, SVP andGM of Heritage.To capitalize on consumer interest in retrolooks, the group in 2009 launched VintageShoe Co., a men’s and women’s brand focusedon reviving styles from H.H. Brown’s 100-yearoldarchives. Heritage also has seen its iconicKork-Ease and Walk-Over brands return to thespotlight.As a result, Rowley said sales at the divisionare up 90 percent to date compared with a yearago, and that momentum is expected to continueinto 2012.The men’s Walk-Over label, dating back tothe mid-1700s, came under the H.H. Brownumbrella in 1991. Its nod to the past, particularlyits offering of traditional bucks and saddles, isconnecting with men across a wide age spectrum.Rowley said younger, fashion-driven customersare buying styles such as the Derby 100,a classic buck from the 1970s with new,colorful outsoles that were introducedin spring ’11. “We have theclassics, and then can update or puta twist on [them],” he said.It’s not just U.S. consumers whohave jumped on the Americanatrend. Rowley said 60 percent ofWalk-Over’s business is done inJapan and Italy.For Kork-Ease, which launchedin the 1950s and was acquired in2009, the Ava sandal remains a signaturelook. The crisscross bandedstyle on a covered wedge debuted inthe 1970s, and its recent popularity hasspawned a series of companion shoes thatnow represent 25 percent of the brand’soverall business. One of the updated versionsfeatures an exposed cork bottom.“In all three brands, everyone wears[the shoes] differently,” said JohnRobbins, director of marketing. “[They]mean different things to [each one].”Vintage Shoe’s authentic combat styleshave caught the attention of celebritiessuch as Adam Levine, who has beenspotted wearing the Nathaniel jumpboot, and “True Blood” actor Joe Manganiello,who picked up the Isaac tankerboot. Ready-to-wear designer NicholasK. is also a fan and has used the bootsin his last three runway collections.Kork-Ease, too, has received anod from celebrities and designers.“Modern Family” mom Claire, playedby Julie Bowen, has worn the brandon the show, and designer MaraHoffman selected Kork-Ease for herresort ’12 collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim in Miami.“The brands have their own rich heritage,”said Tom McClaskie, designerfor Heritage Shoe Group. “Our job is toenhance that for the modern customer.We bring the real deal to life.”Beyond period styling, the brands in the grouppromote American manufacturing, which isproving to be a strong selling point. All Walk-Over and Vintage product is made exclusively inH.H. Brown’s factory in Pennsylvania. A collectionof higher-end Kork-Ease products will alsobe produced there for spring ’12. In all, about20 percent of the group’s footwear is made inthe U.S., and that share is expected to doublewithin the next two years.“Heritage is important because it’s atrend,” said Rowley, “but ‘made in theU.S.’ is a selling feature. People arestarting to care about [that]. It hasadded value.”American-made product appealsto Eliza Perez, co-owner of Soles384 in Mill Valley, Calif., whocarries the Vintage line. She saidthe company’s domestic sourcingis a key selling point on the floor.“Vintage ties in nicely with theartisan handmade look of the shoes[we carry],” she said. “We’re alsoVintage Shoe Co. trying to feature brands made inon the Nicholas K.the U.S., which is rare today.”fall ’11 runwayGretchen Plummer, co-owner ofJohnny Soles in Portland, Ore., agreed:“Customers ask for [domestically madefootwear],” she said. “[Consumers] haveseen the fallout of [goods] not being madein the U.S. And [H.H. Brown is] an old U.S.shoe company whose quality and stylesare hard to beat.”Photos: courtesy of h.h. Brown90 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P90.indd 901122201118011211/22/11 6:00 PM

Parlux Fragrances, Inc.congratulateson winning Brand of the Year!

MARKETPLACECOMFORT ×Good TasteMost MeMorablefashion deal:“I used to collectMiriam Haskelljewelry [at right]. Ibought it from anelderly lady, wholooked like GloriaSwanson, at theCanal Street fleamarket in New York.”Anna Suibest filM for fashion:“I always thought AnitaPallenberg had the coolest rockstyle. My favorite memory ishow beautiful she looked in themovie ‘Performance’ [above,also starring Mick Jagger].”holiday i Most cherish:Christmas. “I always lookforward to spending timewith my family in Detroit.Especially now, when alot of the kids are awayat school, it’s [the besttime] for catching up.”The designer has found her comfort zone. Spring ’12marks the second season Anna Sui has collaboratedwith Hush Puppies on a women’s shoe collection,Hush Puppies by Anna Sui, which combinesher love of vintage dressing with the comfortbrand’s casual heritage. Reflecting Sui’s signaturerock ’n’ roll vibe, the spring assortment, pricedfrom $95 to $165, ranges from menswear-inspiredwingtip wedges to patent leather sandals withembroidered cherries. Sui’s personal favorites includea fringed bootie and gladiator sandal, bothglammed up with studs and stones. “There’s alwaysa very sweet, feminine, girly aspect — a touchof nostalgia,” Sui said of the collection. “There’salso the aspect of trendiness, the hipness I try tocreate by always adding a rock ’n’ roll coolness.”Already, the line has caught the eye of celebritiessuch as Taylor Swift, who wore a pair in a recentTeen Vogue video. Here, Sui shares her most memorablefashion find and why she loves being homefor the holidays. By Barbara Schneider-Levyfavorite getaway:“Il San Pietro in Positano, Italy.This architectural wonder appearsto have been carved out of thecliffs of the Amalfi coastline.”best vintage store find:“I love finding Ossie Clark dresses [at left]in shops, auctions and on eBay. I’m alwaystrying to find a signature crepe checkerboardand-apple-printdress. I recently found one atan auction.”PHOTOS: SUI: COURTESY OF ANNA SUI; DRESS, NECKLACE: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE; POSITANO, PALLENBERG: GETTY IMAGES92 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P92.indd 921121201113543511/21/11 1:53 PM

Did I mention I own eleven pairs?Maureen M., Unionville, CTLove these shoes! Great for long hours at work : )especially as a nurse ♥ Kelsey W., Baltimore, MDI feel sorry for feet who havenot met Dansko. Vanessa M., Shelby, NCWE COULDN’T HAVESAID IT BETTER.One day my daughter called me to tell me about the adorable shoes she hadfound. She bragged about their comfort. Then she told me they were Dansko.I said ‘Dear, all of us wear Dansko!’ Denise Q., St. Simons Island, GAI am a stay at home mom with twins and these are the only shoes I could wearduring my pregnancy. Now Dansko are the ONLY shoes I wear! Jackie R., Collegeville, PAOur loyal fans, your customers,share why they insist on Dansko shoes–season after season, year after year.I ♥ my Dansko shoes!Pamela S., Lansing, MII bought my first pair of Dansko clogs last year andthey are worth every penny! Sharon S., Boston, MAMary K., Austin, TXThese shoes are ridiculously comfortable!!!!Dansko is a registered trademark of Dansko, LLC. © 2011 Dansko, LLC.I can’t wear sneakers due to toe problems. Dansko Sanibel is a great substitute. They arelighter in weight than regular clogs and lower to the ground. They are comfortable andgo great with jeans. They make me feel like dancing. Roni D., Portland, ORContact your Dansko Sales Rep todayto see what the buzz is about.

MARKETPLACEcomfort ×5 QuestionsGold RushAlegria design director Megan Gold aims to attract customersfrom all walks of life with funky looks. by barbara schneider-levyWhen it comes to comfort,Alegria doesn’t take itselftoo seriously.While the brand’s quirkyrocker-bottom styles featurefootbeds engineered toreduce metatarsal pressureand encourage proper gait,design director Megan Goldis making sure the shoes are fun to wear, too.With its whimsical but functional styles,Alegria, produced by Pomona, Calif.-based PGLite, attracts a wide range of consumers, fromeveryday women to health-care and restaurantworkers. Styles include colorful clogs, sandalsand boots, all detailed with everything from retropeace symbols to floral prints, with retail pricesthat range from $100 to $170. The brand is also astaple in the duty market.“My mom is a doctor, my sister-in-law works ina nursing home and I have a cousin who is a chef.In those worlds, [Alegria is] becoming pretty wellknown,”Gold said.Since its 2008 launch, the brand has built a U.S.account base of roughly 1,000 retailers, includingZappos.com and Belk, and has expandedinto international markets, including Finland,Israel, Thailand and Switzerland. Despite a tougheconomy, the company logged sales gains of 25percent this year over last.And the brand is just getting started, Goldsaid. Having successfully carved out a niche foritself in women’s, Alegria is turning its attentionto the kids’ market, with a girls’ collection set tohit stores in April. This follows the fall ’11 launchof a companion accessories line that includeswristlets and totes.A spring ’12 styleby AlegriaHere, Gold shares her thoughts on thego-to cities for soaking up inspirationand the comfort opportunities in thekids’ market.1Where do you look for inspirationfor the collection?MG: I go home to Seattle, stopinto Nordstrom and [then] check outthe comfort stores there. I also go toOlympia, Wash., and spend time incafés. Being in that element is much lessglitzy than shopping in Orange Countyor Beverly Hills. It’s a completely differentcustomer. I [also] have a greatperspective on our customer becauseI’ve worked plenty of jobs, like waitingtables, where I was on my feet for longperiods of time.2How do you cater to both a fashionand work customer now thatthe medical and duty marketshave embraced Alegria?MG: Every woman wants to look great, no matterwhat she’s doing. [For example], nurses workdouble shifts, [and our wide] assortment of printsand colors [allows them to] make a statementabout themselves. As for my fashion customer, Ithink of that same nurse going to dinner or havingfun on her day off. I ask myself where she shops,what she’s wearing. And in this economy, we’refortunate to have a professional consumer niche.We have customers who own more than five pairs.3Megan GoldComfort brands don’t typically appeal toyoung shoppers. How are you reachingthis audience?MG: [By offering] a variety of materials, there’ssomething for everyone. I try to keep the patternsclassic and not overly designed. We don’t add newstyles very often. Instead, we [try to] predict whatcustomers will be looking for [and what styles]would look great in current materials and colortrends. For example, the African leopard patent inour Paloma Mary Jane style and the tortoise patentin our Classic clog reach everyone.4With a kids’ line in the works, are youworried that parents might be reluctantto put their kids in a rocker outsole?MG: It will be a matter of trying on the shoes andseeing that [they have] a very stable foundation.There isn’t anything tippy about them. I’m themother of a 9-year-old girl, and I have used herand her friends to test out samples. I feel confidentit won’t be an issue. But I do understandparents’ concerns.5As you add new categories, such as accessories,do you see Alegria evolving into alifestyle brand?MG: I would love that. I started out my careerdesigning bags, so that is second nature to me and[has been] a nice addition to the line. Still, just aswe’re adding different patterns slowly, we’re enteringinto [other categories] very cautiously. I knowDansko got into scrubs. We’re not talking aboutthat at this point, but it could be logical because ofour prints. In 2012, we will have other bags [comingout], including a tote and shoulder bag.Photos: CoURtEsY oF ALEGRIA94 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P94.indd 941122201116191911/22/11 4:17 PM

Tucker & Latifi, LLP | Ostrolenk Faber LLPcongratulateSteve Maddenon winningComPany of The yearTucker & Latifi, LLP160 East 84th Street, New York, NY 10028T 212.472.6262 | F 212.744.6509 | tuckerlatifi.com1180 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036T 212.382.0700 | F 212.382.0888 | ostrolenk.com

MARKETPLACECHILDREN’S × Celebrity KidsTabloid TotsAs the American public becomes even more fixated on celebrity families, kids’ shoe brands aretaking notice — and placing product on the pint-sized tastemakers. by erin e. clackThey are some of Hollywood’sbiggest trendsetters,but you won’t findthem on the party circuitor sitting front row atFashion Week. Instead,they are hanging out at the localplayground and getting ice creamwith their parents.Equally as stylish as their famousmoms and dads, celebrity kids —including Suri Cruise, Kingston Rossdale,Maddox Jolie-Pitt and HonorWarren — have become fixtures inthe tabloids and entertainment blogs,their every fashion move closelywatched and discussed.As that attention — and subsequentinfluence — grows, children’sfootwear companies are increasinglyturning to celebrity product placementto build buzz.“There is huge opportunity forbrands to garner exposure by havingcelebrity kids wear their shoes,” saidBonnie Fuller, president and editorin-chiefof Hollywoodlife.com and itsspinoff, Hollybaby.com. “Everydaypeople aspire to be celebrities, andbuying into the latest kids’ trendsis just another way they can have apiece of stars’ lives. Celebrity kidsare walking advertisements, just liketheir parents.”According to Michelle Lee, editorin-chiefof celebrity glossy In TouchWeekly, what makes this type ofproduct placement especially powerfulwithin the kids’ market is that itresonates strongly with everydaymoms, who regard these children asmore-accessible and more-relatableextensions of their parents.“A big part of these kids’ appeal isthat they are unabashedly real: Theymake funny faces, they drop their icecream, they cry,” she said. “[Adult]celebrities may be able to controlother parts of their image, but whenThe Jolie-Pitt family:Maddox (center) wearsNative Shoesyou see them with their kids, it bringsthem back down to earth. The publicwants to see a more real side of stars,and kids provide a window into [their]lives behind closed doors.”With the unprecedented mediaattention these children attract today,brands have found that getting theirshoes on a Violet Affleck or a HarlowMadden can mean major publicity.It’s no surprise, then, that an entireindustry has sprouted up aroundcelebrity product placement, fromgifting agencies to PR specialists.Stride Rite works with CaliforniabasedJewels & Pinstripes, whichcreates gift packages and mails themto celebrities’ homes. A “bump bag” issent when a celebrity announces herpregnancy, followed by a new babypackage when the child arrives. Birthdaybags are then sent every year untilthe child turns 5. Stride Rite is theexclusive footwear brand for Jewels& Pinstripes, which also providesapparel, hair ornaments and strolleraccessories.“This way, we know the shoes arein a bag with other great productsthat go straight to the celebrities’homes. It’s much easier to control andmanage,” said Malinda Freitas, brandmarketing manager for Stride Rite.“And when we see one of our shoes inthe press, we can trace it directly backto a specific package that was sent toa celebrity. We really see the results ofour efforts.”Although Umi in the past participatedin gifting suites and otherHollywood events, the brand hasdiscovered through experience thatthe best exposure comes from privaterelationships with its famous fans,who include Jennifer Garner andJessica Alba.“We’ve learned there is not a lot ofgood in [gifting events],” said MarkKohlenberg, the label’s founder andpresident. “Oftentimes, these eventsdo not attract the type of celebrity youare targeting. And there are so manylayers between the brand and thecelebrity that there is no guaranteethey will even get the product or thattheir child will ever wear it.”Native Shoes seeds merchandise toabout 25 celebrity kids each seasonand has seen its colorful footwearshow up on the feet of everyone fromPhotos: GEttY IMAGEsSP(S96 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P96,97.indd 961121201114062711/21/11 2:05 PM

MARKETPLACE× CHILDREN’SCelebrity KidsMaddox Jolie-Pitt to Ava Jackman.“We’ve never done any of the giftingevents because we’ve had so muchsuccess feeding product directly,” saidShawna Olsten, the Canadian firm’sdirector of global marketing. “We’vehad a lot of pickups on the blogs, especiallywith our kids’ shoes.”The brand garnered buzz thispast summer when Tori Spellingwas snapped walking her pet pig ona leash, with daughter Stella by herside, wearing a pair of Native kids’shoes. “It was so unusual that thephoto got a lot of attention,” saidOlsten.Often, she noted, the best presshappens organically. For instance,in September, first daughter SashaObama was spotted in Native’slemon-yellow Jefferson shoes as sheboarded a helicopter to Camp Davidwith her dad. “We obviously can’tsend product to the Obamas, so itwas just a matter of luck that Sashachose our shoes,” said Olsten. “It’sthe kind of placement you justcan’t pay for. The pictures werepicked up everywhere.”When it comes to selectingwhat specific styles to sendto celebrities, Stride Rite’sFreitas said it’s best to baseit on the individual child’spersonality and fashionsense, rather than onwhat a brand is lookingto push at retail. “If[the kids] don’t like theshoes, they’re not goingto wearPeople are incredibly interested in celebrities,and they voraciously follow the magazinesand blogs. Being a new brand, you have toput yourself where the eyeballs are.them,” she said. For example, forGwen Stefani’s son Kingston, whosestyle is on the edgier side, StrideRite will choose bolder shoes, whilesimple, classic looks are pulled forSarah Jessica Parker’s twin daughters,Tabitha and Marion.Still, Freitas said that when possiblethe company does try to sendthe same shoes to several differentkids, as it increases the likelihood ofgetting press coverage. “If you startto see multiple celebrity kids in aparticular shoe or style of shoe, itbecomes a trend, and then a magazineor blog might run something onit,” she said.While it can be difficult to measurethe direct sales impact that comesfrom gifting product to celebrities,brands said the benefits gobeyond numbers. For Native, whichlaunched in 2009, it’s been a way toget its name out.From day one, Olsten said, thebrand has recognized the significanceof the kind of publicity highprofilefashion influencersgenerate. “People are incrediblyinterested in celebrities,and they voraciously followthe magazines and blogs.Being a new brand, youhave to put yourselfwhere the eyeballsare,” she said.Umi’s Kohlenbergsaid hebelieves celebrityproduct placementeven lends credibility to abrand. “People look at it differentlythan advertising, which has a veryspecific motive of getting peopleto buy into a brand or change theiropinion. When consumers see a shoeon a celebrity, they believe there isstyle and quality there, that it’s OKfor them to buy it,” he added. It alsoprovides Umi’s retailers, who oftendisplay the celebrity images in theirstores, with another talking point onthe sales floor, he said.For her part, In Touch Weekly’s Lee— Shawna Olsten, Native Shoessaid there is no denying the tremendousinfluence of Tinseltown’s moststylish tots, citing as a prime example10-year-old Maddox Jolie-Pitt,who shook up the once-staid boys’market with his edgy, punk-rockstyle. “It sounds silly to say, but he’shad a major, lasting influence,” shesaid. “Celebrity kids absolutely settrends and drive sales. And whethereveryday parents know it or not, allthese [paparazzi] images stick in theirconsciousness when they are outshopping for their own kids.”Keeping Your ShoesClean and Fresh.OR CALL US AT 503-747-5755.Photos: GEttY IMAGEsSarah JessicaParker’s daughter(far right) sportsStride RiteFN1128P96,97.indd 971121201114062711/21/11 2:05 PM

MARKETPLACECHILDREN’S × ProfileGrowth ChartFor children’s brand Livie & Luca, launching women’s shoes andexpanding its baby line are part of a larger plan. by erin e. clackLivie & Luca is spreading its wings.To reach new audiences, the independentchildren’s brand, founded in 2005by friends Mitzi Rivas and Amie Garcia,has introduced women’s shoes and isgrowing its international business.The women’s shoes, said Rivas, were born outof consumer requests. The line, launched thisfall, features a selection of ballet flats, priced at$98, that borrows details and materials directlyfrom the kids’ line.“We wanted styles that complement our children’sshoes but that also are sophisticated andversatile,” Rivas said. For fall ’12, the brand plansto broaden the offering to include boots and aseries of vintage-inspired styles.Livie & Luca has so far sold the women’s shoesmainly into its existing kids’ accounts but willpursue distribution in women’s boutiques in theA spring ’12girls’ styleby Livie & Lucaseasons ahead. “Obviously, wehave many moms who are fansof our brand and our aesthetic,”Rivas said, “but we also thinkthere is an opportunity to reachthose younger women who donot yet have children and maynot know us.”In addition to debutingwomen’s, Livie & Luca is growingits Just Born collection ofsoft-sole baby shoes, which wasintroduced last fall. The line,priced around $36, offers smallerversions of the brand’s mostpopular kids’ styles, includingthe spats-inspired London bootand Pio Pio Mary Jane shoe.“The baby shoes have reallycaught fire, so we’re going to beexpanding the offering, but in avery edited way. Not all our styleslend themselves to the babycategory,” Rivas said, adding thatthe collection has broadenedthe brand’s retail distribution toinclude baby and gift boutiques.International expansion alsois a major focus for the San Francisco-basedcompany. Through local distributors,Livie & Luca now sells its shoes in Australia,New Zealand, Canada and parts of Europe. Itis set to launch in the Dominican Republic thisspring, and Japan is a key target for the future.“We’re doing especially well in Europe, wherethere is an appreciation for brands like oursthat use sustainable materials and productionpractices,” said Rivas.Back home, Livie & Luca continues to seestrong growth. In addition to operating its owne-commerce business, which accounts for nearlya third of total sales, the brand is sold by e-tailersincluding Zappos.com, Nordstrom.com and Endless.com.It also does a big business with independents,including apparel boutiques. “We reallyconsider ourselves more of a lifestyle brand thana shoe brand,” Rivas explained. “In many of thesestores, we’re not placed in the shoe section; we’replaced alongside specialty clothing lines such asTea and Neige. Our shoes fit well in that world.”In a kids’ footwear industry that has seenconsiderable consolidation in the past few years,Livie & Luca is one of only a handful of independentbrands still remaining today, a fact thatRivas said is both a challenge and an opportunity.“It’s obviously tough going up against all thesebigger companies,” she said, “but smaller lineslike ours tend to stand out naturally.”Retailers said Livie & Luca’s independent spiritis a big part of the brand’s appeal.“Because it is such a small company, it does nothave to cater to the masses or need to reach hugevolumes before a design is given the go-ahead forproduction,” said Tamsin Carlson, co-owner of LosAngeles-based Wee Soles, which has carried theline since 2008. “They can create shoes that areunique and different and that find their own nichemarket.” Carlson said customers love the colorfulnessand sophistication of Livie & Luca’s designs,which feature hand-finishes such as flower ornamentsand appliqués of birds and other motifs.Simply Soles, which has locations in Washington,D.C., and Oxon Hill, Md., picked up theLivie & Luca collection two years ago, and ownerKassie Rempel said the line has developed a fastfollowing. “People see the shoes on our websiteand come into the store asking for them,” shesaid. “[Earlier in the year], we put them on saleas part of our Jubilee event, and customers weregoing crazy for them. We had women calling allweek to see if we had more [shoes] we were hidingin the back.”Rivas said that type of consumer receptionmotivates the company to continually innovateon the design front. “We want to be a fresh companythat isn’t afraid to experiment with differentmaterials and ways of shoemaking,” she said.“We work hard to create product that is uniqueand special, while also making sure we’re laying astrong foundation so we can be here to stay.”From left: Mitzi Rivasand Amie GarciaPhotos: CoURtEsY oF BRAND98 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P98.indd 981121201117293111/21/11 5:26 PM

THE TRADESHOW ISSUESLET YOUR MESSAGE TAKECENTERSTAGEISSUE DATE CLOSE DATE BONUS DISTRIBUTIONFFANY PRE-SHOW ISSUE: January 23 January 12 FFANYFFANY SHOW/ WSA PRE-SHOW ISSUE: January 30 January 19 FFANY, WSAWSA SHOW/FN PLATFORM PRE-SHOW ISSUE: February 6 January 26 WSA, FN PLATFORMFN PLATFORM SHOW ISSUE: February 13 February 2 FN PLATFORM, ATLANTA, PROJECTFOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING, CONTACT SANDI MINES, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, AT 212.630.4872, OR YOUR FN SALESPERSON.

MARKETPLACEathletic ×Retail SpotlightPacking HeatMichael Packer’s Teaneck, N.J., sneaker shop has built its businesswith history’s hottest sellers. by jennifer ernst beaudryPacker Shoes gives the sneakerheadswhat they want.The Teaneck, N.J., shop focuseson classic brands and styles thathave their roots in legitimate performance.And the retailer’s ownheritage is as rich as the old-schoolstyles it champions.The 1,200-sq.-ft. store is the latestevolution of a family business that goes back to1907, when Michael Packer’s grandfather and greatuncle opened a full-service family shoe store, calledPacker Bros., on Ashburton Avenue in Yonkers, N.Y.Packer, who left a 10-year career as a lawyer toopen the Teaneck shop in 2003 (the original locationclosed in 2005), makes looking back a habit.“Shoes that have a cool look and feel, but still stayauthentic — that’s the sweet spot,” he said.That filter means limited-edition retro looksfrom brands such as Nike, Jordan, Ellesse, Fila,Saucony and Reebok get prime space on thecustom-built shelves.The store’s retro commitment especially showsup in its product collaborations.Packer Shoes was one of 20 storesto design shoes for the ReebokPump 20th-anniversary collection,and this summer, it workedwith the brand again to create aGrand Slam pack of Court VictoryPumps that sold at a handful oftop-tier accounts.Other offerings at the shopinclude the soon-to-be-expandedPro-Keds collection with BizMarkie and the Jeremy Scott forOriginals by Adidas Originals line,which provide fresh updates toclassic labels. And some newerbrands, such as Supra, have connectionsto sport.The store’s dedication to historyis one of its great strengths,said Paul Fisher, Canton, Mass.-based Reebok sales director fortrend in the U.S. “[Michael Packer]will not do anything if there’sPacker Shoesnot a really authentic backstory,a rich heritage on the court or onthe field,” he said. “He’s amazing at romancing [theproduct] and making it into a whole event.”Packer’s reputation was the reason Ellesse, a divisionof New Hyde Park, N.Y.-based Pentland, chosethe store as its U.S. relaunch partner.Ellesse managing director Mike Stopforth saidthe brand seeded a small package of 10 heritagestyles exclusively to the store this year to gaugeconsumer reaction. “He’s got a staunch fan base, andthe brands support him, so we thought [the store]would be a great test bed,” Stopforth said. “We’vehad a really good working relationship and gottensome good market feedback.”As times have gotten tougher and limited-editionruns have become more prevalent, Packer said hisfocus has shifted away from exclusive projects withdominant brands to a wider variety. And he’s movingbeyond tiny limited drops. “Doing 12 to 18 pairsisn’t serving the consumer,” he said.Instead, Packer has embraced a broader range ofprice points. This summer, he said, one of the store’sbest-sellers was the $80 Adidas Campus shoe. “Thedays of the certainty of selling $160 to $220 shoesMichael Packerare over,” he said. Now, he expained, the $65-to-$225 range works best, with $100 as the sweet spot.Going forward, Packer is embracing a newonline model. This week, Packershoes.com islaunching an e-commerce component and willeventually offer at least 80 percent of the in-stockselection, Packer said.Setting up the site and integrating it with his existingPOS system cost between $5,000 and $6,000,an investment Packer said should pay dividends.He added that the site could eventually contributesupplementary business of as much as 50 percent.(Packer didn’t give exact figures, but he said totalstore sales were between $1 million and $2 millionlast year and are on pace to be the same in 2011.) Forthe time being, though, Packer and his staff of threerotating full-time employees will handle all the instoresales and website maintenance.The store’s vendors, too, trust that e-commerce isa good next step for Packer.“One of the things you’re concerned with [as abrand] with e-commerce is to make sure the storyyou’re telling matches up with the brand position,”Reebok’s Fisher said. “I have total trust that he’s tellingit online the way he is in the store.”With the addition of e-commerce, the store’scommitment to product and service remains asstrong as it was when he was a kid working in thefamily store. “I couldn’t get it out of my bloodstream,”he said. “It’s stubbornness, to a point.”Photos: KYLE ERICKsEN100 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P100.indd 1001122201119172311/22/11 7:13 PM

MARKETPLACEATHLETIC ×ProfileClassics RockAirwalk is entrenching itself in the music scene to reach internationalcrowds while courting old fans with familiar looks. by wayne niemiAirwalk’s Eric DreyerAirwalk may be turning 25 this year, butit’s about to undergo a growth spurt.In spring ’12 and heading into nextyear’s back-to-school period, the skatebrand will enter new internationalmarkets, reissue classic styles and tapinto the music scene to expand its connectionwith its core audience, which ranges from 13- to40-year-olds.“We have this incredible brand elasticity. Wecan reach older consumers because they rememberthe brand, and we can [attract those whoare] 12 and 13 because the product that’s beingreleased is cool and relevant and looks great,”said Eric Dreyer, VP of brand management.Dreyer said the label, already sold in 100 countries,will expand its international distributionin the coming year. The $700 million brand hasinked licensing agreements to move into China,Russia and Brazil, with India poised to be thenext market in 2012, he added. “We’ll see some[regions] launch in the spring, but the big buildupwill be for back-to-school,” he said.Deepening Airwalk’s roots internationallyis a sound strategy, said Morningstar Inc.Analyst Paul Swinand, because the brandcan leverage the sourcing and distributionnetworks of parent company CollectiveBrands Inc.“In the U.S., [the marketplace is] a littlemore crowded,” he said. “Sometimes it’seasier to leverage a brand portfolio where thecompetition isn’t as intense. They are findingthey can occupy a niche that other people can’tbecause they are a little cheaper.” (Airwalk stylesrange in price from $20 to $90.)Dreyer said the plan moving forward is to seekout the young and the youthful, who may or maynot skate. “We’re a bigger brand than just skate,”he said. “These new countries represent a realopportunity to be relevant to the skate communitiesin those countries, if they have thattype of community. If not, then we can speak tomusic and fashion and youth culture in general.Airwalk can resonate and be meaningful in thoseareas as well.”To help expand the company’s scope, Dreyersaid Airwalk deepened its involvement in sponsoringbands and music tours. For example, thebrand will once again hold its Unsigned Herocontest, which debuted in 2005, for spring ’12.While still in the planning stages, theprogram will solicit submissionsfrom musicians and bands.The Airwalk team will thennarrow down the numberto 10 contenders, which willall be featured on a website.The public can then vote fortheir favorite act. In pastyears, the winner was giventhe opportunity to performat the prestigious SXSWfestival in Austin, Texas.Dreyer stressed, though, thatAirwalk is still staying true to its skate roots andcontinues to sponsor pro athletes such as skatersMike Vallely, Andy MacDonald and Tulio DeOliveira; surfers Anastasia Ashley and Warren Metcalfe;and freestyle motocross rider Ronnie Renner.The athletes will all be featured in the company’smarketing efforts for spring via traditional mediacampaigns, as well as on the brand’s website, insocial media programs and at special events.On the product side, consumers are showing arenewed enthusiasm for Airwalk’s classic styles,which the brand began releasing in limited-editionruns in late 2010.As a result, Dreyer said, he plans to kick off aprogram based around the popular One style forspring ’12. The look will relaunch on Airwalk’swebsite, as well as at Payless ShoeSource (alsoowned by parent Collective Brands Inc.) andthrough licensees around the world. Other shoespulled from the brand’s archives will also bereleased throughout the year.“As we work through 2012, there will be othercollections that drop in the same manner,” Dreyersaid. “The key is, you’ve got to have one versionthat is exactly how it was built the first timebecause there are a lot of people who love thatoriginal shoe. But the real opportunity is in addingdesign detailing to make it relevant today.”Payless CEO LuAnn Via said the brand, inaddition to being a top seller, has helped theretailer attract young consumers. “Working withthe Airwalk team has given us an opportunityto develop a branded collectionA spring ’12each season with a broad range ofsneakerstyles that connect well with ourshoppers, particularly the youth market,”she said. “Airwalk brings a youthful,relevant and fresh point of viewto our product assortmentand is a steady brandthat is very popularamong ourshoppers.”Photos: CoURtEsY oF AIRWALK102 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P102.indd 1021122201116483711/22/11 4:47 PM

Top StoriesINSIDER× ON DEADLINEBrown Signs New License(continued from page 16)to BBC’s roster, calling it “one of themost exciting brands in footwearright now.” He said his companywould push to broaden the kids’product offering and open up internationaldistribution for the line.The 107-year-old Buster Brownbrand, Campbell said, “needs to berepositioned a bit and given a newlook,” while the Avia label gives BBCan opportunity to boost its profile inthe branded athletic space.BBC will showcase the new linesat this week’s FFANY show.Sullivan also noted that BrownShoe signed a footwear license withcontemporary fashion brand Vincein the third quarter. “With Vince,we’re continuing to build andstrengthen our contemporary fashionportfolio. Distribution of thisbrand will begin in fall ’12 and willbe aligned with the same strongluxury department and specialtystore consumer base as the Vincesportswear line,” she said. “TheVince footwear line will expandour presence in this $1.5 billionpremier department store channel,which is currently being served bythe Via Spiga, Vera Wang and ourSam Edelman brands.”Sales were a mixed bag at thefirm in the third quarter. The FamousFootwear business slipped 1percent, wholesale operations rose3 percent and specialty retail fell 5percent. Total revenue came in flatat $713.8 million.Net income was $33.7 million,or 79 cents a share, comparedwith $18.6 million, or 42 cents,in the third quarter of 2010. Thefirm ended the quarter with $42million in cash and $199 millionin debt. — With contributions fromErin E. ClackDSW Keeps Marchingby wayne niemiLOS ANGELES — Strong bootsales continue to drive business atDSW Inc., said analysts.“DSW has a very unique positionwithin the branded footwearretailer universe, with a highlyrecognizable name, highly productivestores, great merchantsand a bullet-proof balance sheet,”said C.L. King & Associatesanalyst Steven Marotta. “Plus,their everyday low-price modelhas earned the trust of customers[looking for value] against themacroeconomic backdrop.”Same-store sales during thethird quarter rose 5.2 percent, afteralso rising 10.1 percent duringthe third quarter of last year.Susquehanna Financial analystChristopher Svezia said, “Overall,I liked what I heard. The bootbusiness is really a hallmark forthem, and that keeps us encouragedabout fourth-quartertrends.”DSW’s chief marketing officerDebbie Ferrée said the doubledigitcomp performance in boots inthe third quarter covered “everythingfrom riding boots [to] casualboots, engineer boots and anythingthat had shearling or fur.”The firm increased its full-yearguidance to EPS of $2.90 to $2.95. Itearned $2.40 a share in fiscal 2010.After adjusting for the impactfrom the merger with Retail VenturesInc., the Columbus, Ohiobasedretailer’s third-quarter netincome increased 12 percent to$39.8 million, or 88 cents a share.Revenue advanced 8 percent to$530.7 million, from $489.3 million.WANTEDU.S. SHOE MANUFACTUREROF EVA PRODUCTS(MADE IN AMERICA ONLY)Contact e-mail -sandinofl@yahoo.comwww.brownshoe.com314-854-4000Subscribe today!Call 800.360.1700for individual subscriptionswww.bosandco.combosandco@bosandco.com905-335-9951Question about yourSubscription?Call 1-800-360-1700(800) 423-3314 or FAX (212) 630-4634DEADLINE: 2PM (ET) WEDNESDAY PRIOR TO DATE OF PUBLICATIONContact Rich Franz at 212.286.3951for Group Discount subscriptionsTo place an “ONLINE ONLY”classified ad, log intoWWDCAREERS.comand place your ad any timeFN1128P16.indd 1031123201111564311/23/11 11:56 AM

Next ChapterFN’s Lifetime Achievement Award winner, Manolo Blahnik,is sharing his fashion fairytale with the world. The designer,whose career spans four decades, has turned his life intoa colorful storybook, released earlier this month. Blahnik,who illustrated the memoir “Manolo Blahnik and the Taleof the Elves & the Shoemaker,” plans to celebrate the book’srelease on Nov. 30 at his New York store.Photo: thomas iannacconeFN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 67, NO. 44. NOVEMBER 28, 2011. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in January, third week in February, fourth weeks in May and December and fifth week in August) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 ThirdAvenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at NewYork, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre., Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6.POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 15877, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5877. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FN, P.O. Box 15877, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5877, call 800-360-1700, or visit www.subnow.com/fn. Please giveboth new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Basic one-year subscription price: U.S. $59; Canadian/Mexico $145; foreign $245. Regular single-copy cost: $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address withinone year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial,business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permission requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax requests to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at sales@scoopreprintsource.com. Visitus online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receivethese offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15877, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5877 or call 800-360-1700. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR ANY DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK(INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESSSPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.104 | | NOVEMBER 28, 2011FN1128P104.indd 1041122201116463711/22/11 4:45 PM