SUMMER 2008By Chelsea PavoneSafe at home in Hawaii, I’d like <strong>to</strong> share a few s<strong>to</strong>ries,insights and mishaps that <strong>to</strong>ok place while travelingthrough <strong>In</strong>donesia l<strong>as</strong>t year.After changing planes three times and nearly 24 hours <strong>of</strong> traveling,we arrived in Bali. Even our luggage arrived in good shape andcontrary <strong>to</strong> what <strong>you</strong>r cautious family warns <strong>you</strong> about, nobodyslipped drugs in our bag and <strong>the</strong>re were no police wa<strong>it</strong>ing <strong>to</strong> arrestus and demanding hundreds <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> dollars for our rele<strong>as</strong>e.Assured we weren’t going <strong>to</strong> jail, we made our way through <strong>the</strong>airport w<strong>it</strong>h e<strong>as</strong>e. Will had warned me that he gets nervous aboutflying, but he really w<strong>as</strong> a breeze… even carrying my heavy bag.What a doll!Our p<strong>as</strong>sports were stamped and <strong>the</strong>re were about a thousand taxicab drivers wa<strong>it</strong>ing outside, all w<strong>it</strong>h different prices though generallycheaper <strong>as</strong> <strong>you</strong> move on down <strong>the</strong> line. Everyone spoke Englishand all <strong>the</strong> cab drivers carry straps <strong>to</strong> tie <strong>you</strong>r board bags <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> car. Smart. I guess about half <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>urists in Bali are surfers.We stayed in <strong>the</strong> c<strong>it</strong>y for two days and surfed Kuta Beach alongw<strong>it</strong>h a million o<strong>the</strong>r people. We strolled around <strong>to</strong>wn for <strong>the</strong> dayand at night we met up w<strong>it</strong>h my good friend Nancy, who had beentraveling around Thai<strong>land</strong>, Vietnam and Cambodia.She convinced us <strong>to</strong> go out on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn for <strong>the</strong> night, and eventhough I’m not much <strong>of</strong> a late night, clubbing, bar-hopping type <strong>of</strong>person, <strong>it</strong> ended up being great for people <strong>watch</strong>ing.Bali is sort <strong>of</strong> a hodge-podge <strong>of</strong> locals and <strong>to</strong>urists, but even w<strong>it</strong>h<strong>the</strong> mix <strong>of</strong> cultures, drinking and dancing is <strong>the</strong> universal languagefor all <strong>you</strong>ng c<strong>it</strong>y goers. We started at a nice enough looking club, alocal band sang <strong>to</strong>p 80’s h<strong>it</strong>s while dolled up Japanese girls bouncedup and down on <strong>the</strong> dance floor-innocently enough. But <strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong>clock struck twelve, <strong>the</strong> place transformed in<strong>to</strong> a seedy go-godancer almost borderline strip club. I <strong>watch</strong>ed an 18 year old Englishkid stuff 10,000 rupia (<strong>the</strong> equivalent <strong>of</strong> about 11 cents) in<strong>to</strong> ag-string and that w<strong>as</strong> <strong>it</strong>. Gross. We left.We meandered through <strong>the</strong> Kuta Beach festival, an annual benef<strong>it</strong>concert <strong>to</strong> remember victims <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 2002 bombings.The band played something vaguely reminiscent <strong>of</strong> TheCl<strong>as</strong>h, but people weren’t qu<strong>it</strong>edancin’ like <strong>the</strong>y did whenThe Cl<strong>as</strong>h rocked <strong>the</strong>C<strong>as</strong>bah, so after <strong>as</strong>nack <strong>of</strong> roadsidebbq corn on <strong>the</strong>cob we movedon.We foundano<strong>the</strong>rswankyclub and Isank in<strong>to</strong><strong>the</strong>ir comfy32 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
couches, <strong>watch</strong>ing <strong>the</strong> crazy people in <strong>the</strong> street. We walked <strong>back</strong>,carefully dodging <strong>the</strong> billion and one mo<strong>to</strong>rcycles and avoiding eyecontact w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>the</strong> six year old girls selling bracelets on <strong>the</strong> street atthree in <strong>the</strong> morning. We all agreed that we’d had enough <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>c<strong>it</strong>y. The next day we headed south <strong>to</strong> a quiet l<strong>it</strong>tle beach <strong>to</strong>wn.We stayed right above one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most famous, and crowdedbreaks in Bali. Uluwatu. Will talked me in<strong>to</strong> getting dressed andat le<strong>as</strong>t walking down, and he w<strong>as</strong> out <strong>the</strong>re in a second. I w<strong>as</strong>standing in <strong>the</strong> cave at high tide and just about chickened out whenI turned around and saw a friend <strong>of</strong> mine from Oahu. Small worldwe live in! (We would later run in<strong>to</strong> him and his buddies again, <strong>as</strong>well <strong>as</strong> numerous o<strong>the</strong>r familiar people from Kauai). For <strong>the</strong> timebeing I thought <strong>it</strong> w<strong>as</strong> crazy… Here is my good friend that I <strong>have</strong>n’tseen in forever and I’m standing in a cave wearing a r<strong>as</strong>h guard,board shorts and booties.I didn’t want <strong>to</strong> look like a chicken (even though I just didin front <strong>of</strong> my boyfriend, but that doesn’t count), so I had<strong>to</strong> paddle out. I dodged <strong>the</strong> huge boulder <strong>to</strong> get out at hightide and immediately lost my friend and never found my boyfriend.I think <strong>it</strong> doubled in size <strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> tide dropped over <strong>the</strong>next hour and I paddled my butt <strong>of</strong>f just <strong>to</strong> stay in <strong>the</strong> rightspot- which for me w<strong>as</strong> not in <strong>the</strong> lineup, but instead on <strong>the</strong>shoulder, way out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> way.After about two hours <strong>of</strong> dodging set waves and trying <strong>to</strong> catch lef<strong>to</strong>verslop I w<strong>as</strong> ready <strong>to</strong> go in, knowing <strong>the</strong>re is only one way <strong>to</strong> getin and <strong>it</strong>’s through that small cave. Not an e<strong>as</strong>y t<strong>as</strong>k <strong>as</strong> <strong>the</strong> currentat Ulu’s is so strong <strong>it</strong>’s hard <strong>to</strong> even stand in knee deep water.I thought I would make <strong>it</strong>, but nope, I missed <strong>the</strong> cave- TWICE!At one point I w<strong>as</strong> so far away that had I known about <strong>the</strong> beacharound <strong>the</strong> corner I would <strong>have</strong> just floated <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> next <strong>to</strong>wn, but Ididn’t know. So I paddled all <strong>the</strong> way <strong>back</strong> and this time w<strong>as</strong> kind <strong>of</strong>freaked.Luckily, I met ano<strong>the</strong>r girl out <strong>the</strong>re and she gave me hope. Shesaid she w<strong>as</strong> a beginner and didn’t know what she w<strong>as</strong> doingout <strong>the</strong>re. WHAT??? I’m not a beginner surfer and even Ididn’t know what I w<strong>as</strong> doing out <strong>the</strong>re. She w<strong>as</strong> an Aussie(<strong>of</strong> course, <strong>you</strong> Aussies are fearless and crazy!) so wecollaborated on <strong>the</strong> best way <strong>to</strong> get in. Paddle <strong>as</strong> far over<strong>as</strong> possible, wa<strong>it</strong> for most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> set <strong>to</strong> come in, <strong>the</strong>n take <strong>the</strong> l<strong>as</strong>twave on <strong>the</strong> head and hold on like hell while <strong>it</strong> w<strong>as</strong>hed <strong>you</strong> in. Weboth made <strong>it</strong>. Ahhh... Sand.For <strong>the</strong> next week we stayed in <strong>the</strong> tiny <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>of</strong> Bingin. Nancystayed w<strong>it</strong>h us for two days and <strong>the</strong>n cruised along by herself. Idon’t blame her… If <strong>you</strong> don’t surf, <strong>the</strong>re is not much <strong>to</strong> do inBingin. Before she left I dragged her and Will <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Temple atUluwatu <strong>to</strong> see a Ketchak dance. The temple is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mostfamous in Bali and makes a great <strong>back</strong>drop <strong>to</strong> see a dance, <strong>as</strong> <strong>it</strong> isset high on <strong>the</strong> cliff w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>the</strong> sun setting right over <strong>the</strong> stage.The dance w<strong>as</strong> obviously geared <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>to</strong>urists, but w<strong>as</strong>impressive none<strong>the</strong>less. Trad<strong>it</strong>ionally, <strong>the</strong> dance is part<strong>of</strong> a ceremony that l<strong>as</strong>ts all night long, but we anxious<strong>to</strong>urists can’t s<strong>it</strong> that long, so <strong>it</strong> w<strong>as</strong> just about anhour. If <strong>you</strong>’ve ever seen <strong>the</strong> movie Baraka (if <strong>you</strong><strong>have</strong>n’t, <strong>you</strong> should), <strong>the</strong> part w<strong>it</strong>h <strong>the</strong> guys chanting,“tek tek tek tek”, and waving <strong>the</strong>ir handsin <strong>the</strong> air while s<strong>it</strong>ting down- that is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>Ketchak dance. The dance is about a womanwho is tricked and must call on <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> wh<strong>it</strong>e monkey and his monkey buddies<strong>to</strong> help her get <strong>back</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> man she loves.The wh<strong>it</strong>e monkey is honored in statuesall over Bali. Modern monkeys however,are not so noble. They cruise all over <strong>the</strong>temple and are no<strong>to</strong>rious for snatchingpurses, sungl<strong>as</strong>ses andwallets.<strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>land</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>ex<strong>to</strong>rtion</strong>, <strong>you</strong> <strong>have</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>watch</strong> <strong>you</strong>r <strong>back</strong>, <strong>as</strong> <strong>word</strong> h<strong>as</strong> <strong>it</strong> <strong>the</strong>re’s an Aussie woman servingtime in Bali for a board bag full <strong>of</strong> drugs that she claims she w<strong>as</strong> unaware <strong>of</strong>. Australia is fighting <strong>to</strong><strong>have</strong> her rele<strong>as</strong>ed and Bali is keeping her <strong>as</strong> an example <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir strict oppos<strong>it</strong>ion <strong>to</strong> drugs.The two sides <strong>have</strong> e<strong>as</strong>ed up a b<strong>it</strong> and apparently she’s not doing <strong>to</strong>o badly; she w<strong>as</strong> <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong> choice <strong>to</strong>serve <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> her sentence in Australia but declined. Her family comes over <strong>to</strong> vis<strong>it</strong> and she’s <strong>of</strong>ten le<strong>to</strong>ut for weekend surf trips and h<strong>as</strong> even been spotted in <strong>the</strong> down<strong>to</strong>wn Kuta party scene. Can <strong>you</strong> imaginewaves so good that <strong>you</strong> don’t even want <strong>to</strong> go <strong>back</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>you</strong>r own country? Bali is full <strong>of</strong> Aussie ex-pats.wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 33