Tuolumne Bouldering - SuperTopo

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Tuolumne Bouldering - SuperTopo

TuolumneBoulderingThe Best 20 AreasbyChris Summit


Introduction 7- Staying in Tuolumne 8- Bachar and Kauk on TM 131. Tamarack Boulders 142. Tamarack North/East 183. Olmstead Boulders 204. Ricks Boulder (TheProcrastinator) 235. Ridgetop Boulders 246. Tenaya Lake 267. Tenaya West 288. Tenaya East 319. The Knobs 3410. Medlicott Boulder 4411. The Gunks 4612. Cathedral Boulders 5113. Puppy Boulders 5214. Kitty Boulders 5615. Lee Vining Canyon 58A. May Lake Cracks 62B. The Rock Slide 62C. The Tank 62D. The Drug Boulders 63E. Cold Canyon 63Appendix- Index 66- 50 Suggested classics 67- About the author 70167to RenoHetchHetchyYosemiteNationalParkLeeViningMono Laketo CA-99,San Francisco12021TamarackFlat120WhiteWolfETuolumneA B CMeadowsMay Lake9 11 C 1387 10 D 145 12463TenayaLake15120395to CA-99,Merced14041YosemiteValleyto Bishopto CA-99,Fresno3F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M


WarningClimbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death mayoccur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger.When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience, and conditioning.If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, donot try it.This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. Itis not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information that isnothing more than a compilation of opinions about bouldering in Tuolumne.These opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information as opinionsand nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own common sense andexperience.Assumption of RiskThere may be errors in this book resulting from the mistake of the authors and/orthe people with whom they consulted. The information was gathered from a varietyof sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided theinformation may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The authors may havemade mistakes in their conveyance of the information in this book. The authorscannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information containedin this book. The topographical maps, photo-diagrams, difficulty ratings, protectionratings, approach and/or descent information, suggestions about equipment, andother matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may be absent,unreliable, or misplaced. You must keep in mind that the information in this bookmay be erroneous, so use your own judgement when choosing, approaching,climbing, or descending from a route described in this book.DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU [AND YOUR ESTATE] PROMISE NEVER TO TRY TO SUEUS IF YOU GET HURT OR KILLED.Disclaimer of WarrantiesTHE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER WARN THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHORS’OPINIONS ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. THEY MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESSEDOR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANYEVENT, THEIR LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECTTO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. THEYFURTHER LIMIT TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE THEIR LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OFNEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON THEIR PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OFTHIS BOOK.4T U O L U M N E B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S


AcknowledgementsBook CreditsSpecial thanks to these people for theirhelp making the book:John Bachar, Chris Falkenstein,Ron Kauk, the best mom in the world;Jeanie Anderson-Saludes and the beststep dad; Bony Saludes, the best girlfriend;Valentine Cullen (imagealteration.com)and her beautiful and smart daughter;Holly Anne Grinnell, Chris McNamara(supertopo.com), Charlie Barrett,James Hosler (hoslerphotography.com),Marcos Nunez, Kenny Ariza, Jerry Dodrill(jerrydodrill.com), Randy Spurrier,David Safanda (safanda.com),and Steve McNamara.Special thanks to these climbers fortheir help in the early development ofbouldering in the Tuolumne area and fortheir first ascents (in no particular order):John “Yabo” YablonskiJohn BacharBob KampsDale BardRon KaukDave YerianChris FalkensteinRoyal RobbinsChris VandiverTom HigginsVern ClevengerClaude FiddlerLynn HillCharlie BarrettChris SharmaSteve SchneiderGreg LohChris Van LeuvenMarcos Nunezand me and anyone else who did firstascents in the Tuolumne area. If I leftsomeone out please let me know for thenext edition.Written by Chris SummitPhotos by Chris Summit, ChrisFalkenstein, and John Bachar.Edited by Steve McNamara,Chris McNamaraLayout by Chris McNamaraPrinted in China on Forest StewardshipCouncil certified paperCover Photo: Ron Kauk on Texas Radio,V3 R. Photo: Chris FalkensteinTable of Contents photo: TuolumneMeadows at Sunset. Photo by Jerry Dodrill.Back Cover: Chris Summit at May Lake.Photo: Summit CollectionCover Design by David Safanda DesignSolutions. www.safanda.comThis book is a testament to the years ofdreaming, exploring, discovering anddeveloping the rocks in Tuolumne andeverywhere else on Planet Earth. Moreimportantly, it is a testament to the yearsof our lives spent developing our minds,bodies and souls. Many thanks go out tothe climbers who blaze the trails for us all,on and off the rocks and many thanks toall the people who helped with this book– life, at every level is a collaboration ofsorts – there is no I in team. Let’s all cometogether on this precious planet and helpeveryday, everyway to make it a betterplace for our futures - peace in peace out.Chris Summit - Earth Day 2009- Chris Summit5F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M


Liv Sansov on Double Dyno at The Knobs. Photo by Chris SummitIntroductionBy Chris SummitHHigh in the sky at over 8000 feet inelevation, Tuolumne is the largest subalpinemeadow in the Sierras. When almostevery other Sierra bouldering area iscooking in the heat of summer that is whenThe Meadows calls. Surrounded by stone,Tenaya Lake marks the western gate of themain Tuolumne climbing and boulderingareas and makes a perfect place to have ascenic picnic or take a dip on a hot summerday as well. The Tuolumne area is the idealsummertime boulder playground withperfect cool conditions to complementBishop and Yosemite Valley’s ripe fall,winter and spring bouldering seasons.Closed in winter, there is only a window ofclimb time each year for Tuolumne whichequals about half the time you get at otherareas with all year access. This shortenedwindow of opportunity makes Tuolumnea place to be appreciated, cherished andrespected each and every visit. With a richbouldering history that reaches back tothe roots of Yosemite climbing lore andfirst ascents by the original “Stonemasters,”Tuolumne has always had a reputationfor its unique knobs and challenging,uncharted and untamed rock in a wildalpine environment. Superb High Sierragranite with diorite knobs protruding fromsolid gold, white and black domes, cliffs,and boulders describes the rock. Thinand slabby, run-out face climbs on hugegranite domes describes most of the routes.The bouldering is often very similar, justcondensed into a shorter, more intensebut equally hair-raising experience. In theend, of course, it’s always a very rewarding,satisfying and memorable experience.Head-spinning highballs, splitter cracks,balance slabs, thin and tenuous knobpinching face climbs, and epic long traversesdescribes the majority of boulder styles.A few overhanging problems are in theTuolumne area but they are not the norm.The steep stuff is, however, excellent andon mostly well-featured, solid stone withburly, powerful moves mixed with the classictechnical granite moves and quite oftena heinous mantel top out. Bouldering inTuolumne is an experience not to be missed.SuperTopo.comThe information below is available atsupertopo.com with links directly to thesources for easier trip planning.Essential Tuolumne BetaBelow is some fundamental information forplanning a trip to Tuolumne. However, formore updated and extensive informationyou should visit the Tuolumne Beta Pageon the SuperTopo web site: www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/tuolumne.htmlGetting ThereTuolumne Meadows is located 1.5 hoursnortheast of Yosemite Valley. Since mostclimbers start their trip to Tuolumne by firstdriving through or near Yosemite Valley, youshould visit the SuperTopo Yosemite BetaPage at www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html. There you will find moreinformation and links for airports, buses,trains, and car travel.Air TravelReno/Tahoe Airport is the closest airportto Tuolumne. From there, you will needto rent a car (three-hour drive) or takea bus or shuttle to Mammoth. The busservice is The Crest/Inyo-Mono Transit(800-922-1930), and the shuttles are theMammoth Shuttle (760-934-6588) or SierraExpress (760-937-8294). From Mammothtake YARTS to Tuolumne (see Bus travel).Oakland or San Francisco airports arefarther from Tuolumne but are preferredover Reno/Tahoe because there are moreflights to choose from. You can also fly intoSacramento or Fresno. Each of these placesis a 3.5- to 5-hour drive from TuolumneMeadows.7F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M


Tuolumne InformationI N T R O D U C T I O NBus TravelYARTS (877-989-2787; www.yarts.com) provides bus transportation fromYosemite Valley to Tuolumne and fromthe Eastern Sierra to Tuolumne. DuringJuly through Labor Day, YARTS leavesfrom the Tuolumne Meadows Store everymorning and from Yosemite Lodge eachevening. It provides access between Yosemiteand Mammoth, with the schedule andprices varying according to demand, evendepending on day. Once in Tuolumne, afree shuttle bus provides convenient accessthroughout the Tuolumne Meadows areabetween the Tuolumne Lodge and OlmstedPoint (including Tenaya Lake) duringthe middle part of the summer, and evensometimes to Tioga Pass a few times a day.Car TravelFrom Yosemite Valley, it’s a 1.5-hourdrive east on Highway 120 to TuolumneMeadows. It’s a 4.5-hour drive to Tuolumnefrom the Bay Area, a 3-hour drive from theTahoe area, and about a 1.5-hour drive fromBishop.Gas is available by next to the TuolumneMeadows Store, 15 miles east in Lee Vining,and on Highway 120 at Crane Flat.If you don’t have a car, you can rent oneat any airport or major city. Internationalclimbers who stay in the United States formore than a month often buy a cheap usedcar in San Francisco or Los Angeles and sellit (or scrap it) at the end of their trip.Driving times and distances to TuolumneFrom Time (hours) Distance (miles)Boulder, CO 18:00 1,150Fresno, CA 3:30 150Truckee, CA 3:00 150Los Angeles, CA 6:00 340Mammoth, CA 1:00 50Oakland, CA 4:30 220Sacramento, CA 4:00 210Salt Lake City, UT 10:00 620San Francisco, CA 4:30 230Yosemite Valley 1:30 60When to ClimbTuolumne Meadows has some of the bestweather of any alpine rock climbing areaon Earth. That said, Tuolumne is in amassive mountain range that receives severethunderstorms, lightning, and rare majorPacific weather systems throughout thesummer.All climbing in Tuolumne is accessiblefrom Highway 120. Because of its highelevation, Highway 120 east of Crane Flatand west of Lee Vining is closed in thewinter. The road closes on the first snowof the year (usually November) and openssometime in late May to June, dependingon the snow year. During the winter, it ispossible to climb in Tuolumne, but fewpeople make the arduous ski in.During early season (late May–Junedepending on snow year), Tuolumneconditions are often the best: no crowds,no mosquitoes, and long days. However,some approaches and climbs may be wet orsnowy. Around June 15 the crowds arrivein Tuolumne—along with the mosquitoes.The crowds are not bad relative to Yosemite,but you will probably have to wait in linefor the most classic routes. The mosquitoeson the other hand, can be terrible. Be sureto bring long pants, long sleeve shirts, andbug repellent. In September, the crowds andmosquitoes leave Tuolumne and while theclimbing conditions are still great, the daysbecome short and the nights frigid.Thunderstorm cycles are common in thesummer. Typically, the storms hit in midafternoonand slowly increase in strengthover several days, clearing up each night.However, heavy thunderstorms and raincan set in for days at a time. And in a fewrecent summers, an almost total lack ofthunderstorms over the entire summer haveperplexed locals.Current Road and WeatherThere is no specific weather phone reportfor Tuolumne so your best bet is to checkthe general High Sierra weather at www.supertopo.com. For current road conditions,call 209-372-0200, or the CalTrans voiceactivatedsystem for major highwayconditions at 800-gas-road or 916-445-76238T U O L U M N E B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S


Tuolumne InformationStaying in TuolumneUnlike the Yosemite Valley experience,Tuolumne Meadows is relatively uncrowdedand serene and provides just enough basicservices to comfortably camp. If you arecraving some better food, more services, orjust a day excursion, Lee Vining, Mono Lake,and Mammoth Lakes are all less than anhour away.CampingThe only campground in Tuolumne is theTuolumne Meadows Campground, whichis centrally located and very large (over300 sites). Half of the sites can be reservedin advance at www.recreation.gov (reservethem at least 2-3 months in advance forpeak times) and half of the sitesare on a first come, first served basis (standin line in early morning to ensure youget a site.) Sites cost $20 per night with asix-person, two-car limit. Be aware thatmosquitoes can be particularly fierce andbears patrol the campground so proper foodstorage is mandatory.Located 7 to 12 miles east fromTuolumne Meadows are ten Forest Servicecampgrounds, many of which are first come,first served. Several of these campgroundsare at elevations higher than TuolumneMeadows and can help with acclimation.Twelve miles east of Tuolumne Meadows,the campgrounds in lower Lee ViningCanyon are lower altitude, more shelteredfrom the wind, and near to services in LeeVining. You will pay between $12 and $17per night on a first come, first served basis.The prices at these campgrounds haveclimbed steeply in recent years, in somecases more than doubling in less than adecade.Along Highway 120 toward YosemiteValley are several additional campgroundswith moderate to long drives (30 minutesto one hour). The campground reservationoffice in Tuolumne has information oncurrent campground conditions.Lodges and CabinsIn addition to campsites, there are moreplush accommodations available inTuolumne and the High Sierra, includingthe Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, WhiteI N T R O D U C T I O NWolf, and the High Sierra Camps (www.yosemitepark.com/html/accommodation.html). Just outside of the park boundary isthe Tioga Pass Resort (www.tiogapassresort.com), which offers cabins year-round, asmall restaurant, and an espresso bar. Drive15 miles east from Tuolumne Meadows andyou will reach Lee Vining, a small town witha few motels, restaurants, and other basicservices.FoodA limited selection of high-priced groceriesare available at the Tuolumne Meadowsstore. In addition, you can purchasegroceries in Lee Vining at the Lee ViningMarket. Mammoth has a large Vonssupermarket.The Tuolumne Meadows Grill serveshamburgers, fries, etc, but has very limitedhours, closing hours before dark in midsummer.The Tuolumne Lodge has arestaurant that serves breakfast and dinnerin the midde part of summer. Eight mileseast of Tuolumne Meadows, the Tioga PassResort houses a cozy dining room withgood food. Surprisingly, the Mobil GasStation, located 14 miles from TuolumneMeadows in Lee Vining, has the best foodin the area. This isn’t just any gas station—Tioga Toomey’s Whoa Nellie Deli has agreat selection of sandwiches, pizzas, fishtacos, and a variety of other savory treats forbreakfast, lunch, and dinner. Frequent localbands and even a trapeze out front are otherfeatures of this unusual gas station.9F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M


Tuolumne InformationClimbing Gear and Climbing GuidesThe Tuolumne Mountain Shop (209-372-8436) located at the Tuolumne gasstation offers a small selection of climbingequipment. For a more extensive selectionof gear, you will need to drive 50 miles toMammoth (Mammoth MountaineeringSupply; (888-395-3951, www.mammothgear.com), 90 miles to Bishop(Wilson’s Eastside Sports; 760-873-7520,www.eastsidesports.com), or 60 miles backto Yosemite Valley (Yosemite MountainShop; 209-372-8396, www.yosemitegifts.com/wetoyomosh.html).You can get climbing instruction andarrange for a guide through the YosemiteMountaineering School (209-372-8344),which is based in Tuolumne at theMountain Shop/gas station.AltitudeAt elevation it takes a few days for mostpeople to adjust to the rarefied air, so drinkplenty of water and take it easy. On yourfirst day in Tuolumne, climb a route with ashort approach to let yourself acclimate. Inaddition, eat a low-fat diet for the first dayor two. Wear extra sunscreen and a hat—theUV levels are greater at altitude and severesunburns can happen quickly.Thunderstorms and LightningTuolumne has mostly beautiful, sunnyweather in the summer, yet severethunderstorms occur. Small, puffy cloudsseen before 10 a.m. are a frequent predictorof afternoon rain, hail and, worst of all,lightning. Thunderstorms often appear incycles and generally during periods of hot,calm weather in the Central Valley.Lightning tends to hit high points, trees,and water, but will also hit low points nextto high rocks, flat areas near trees, and dryland around lakes. A climber was struck bylightning on Cathedral Peak in 2000, andmany other close calls have occurred.Know how to perform CPR. Unlikenearly any other type of injury that stopsthe heart, electrical shock victims cansuddenly awaken even after extended CPR.But remember, the best strategy is to avoidthunderstorms in the first place. If you’re onI N T R O D U C T I O Na climb and get nervous about developingclouds, it’s time to turn around.Bears, Marmots, and MosquitoesBears have damaged cars for as little asa stick of gum or an empty soda can. Ifyou want what’s yours to remain yours,remember three things: bears are hungry,smart, and strong.When bears smell food, even if it’s lockedin your trunk or glove compartment, theyshift into high gear. They get turned on byodors of containers that used to containfood. They even go for toothpaste andsunscreen. Bears don’t need to smell food;they see something like a grocery bag or anice chest, and associate it with food. In fact,they don’t even need to see that much. If abear sees clutter inside a car, he’ll think, “Iwonder what’s under all that stuff?” and goto work.Breaking into a car is a trivial exercisefor a bear. He inserts his claws at the topof the door frame and pulls down. Thenhe climbs in and trashes the car. You can’toutsmart or outmuscle a bear. Always stashyour food in one of the bear-proof storagelockers provided by the Park Service in thecampground, at various trailheads includingCathedral Lakes, or at the Wilderness PermitCenter.If camping in the backcountry, usebear canisters, which are available at theWilderness Permit Center. Tuolumne bearsare experienced at cutting the lines to hungfood, and the tattered remnants of the linescan be observed on nearly any tree near abackcountry campsite.In addition to bears, be on the lookoutfor marmots. Cute from a distance, theseplump critters love nothing more thanscrounging for food in climbing packs whileyou watch helplessly from two pitches up.Be sure to hang your backpack high on atree branch—even if it does not have foodin it. Marmots are tough, smart, and strongtoothedand can quickly gnaw throughnearly anything—leave zippers open.Nasty mosquitoes are very common formost of the summer in Tuolumne, so comeprepared. Consider long sleeve pants andshirts, which not only help with mosquitoesbut help prevent sunburns.10T U O L U M N E B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S


Tuolumne InformationI N T R O D U C T I O NCell Phones, Wireless Internet, misc. StuffThe closest wireless internet to Tuolumneis Latte Da coffee shop in Lee Vining (youneed your own laptop). Cell phones worksporadically through Tuolumne if you haveATT. Other carriers are less reliable. Thereis a good signal around the Tuolumne Storeand on top of most domes.Miscellaneous BetaShowers cost $2 and are available at theTuolumne Meadows lodge between noonand 3 p.m. There is a post office located nextto the Tuolumne Store, which is open mostof the season.A message board is located outside theTuolumne Meadows Store, and anotherlarger one is along the entrance road to thecampground. Most climbers use the Storeboard, but make sure if arranging messageswith friends to specify which board.The Tuolumne Meadows Stables (209-372-8348) is the pack station in Tuolumne.The nearest ATM is at the Lee ViningMarket. The nearest bank is Mammoth.You can get cash back with a credit cardpurchase from the Tuolumne Store.Ron Kauk on The Cross at The Knobs. Photo by Chris Falkenstein


I N T R O D U C T I O NRon Kauk at The Knobs. Photo from John Bachar.12T U O L U M N E B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S


I N T R O D U C T I O NKnobsBy John BacharBack in the late seventies, I had heard storiesof climbing the magnificent domes ofTuolumne. Bob Kamps and Royal Robbinswere putting up wicked run out edgingroutes. Little did I know but there was someseriously great bouldering to be done.We didn’t have vertical or overhangingface climbing at the time so our only wayto get that fix was by bouldering. We hadno idea there existed any steep boulderingpotential in the Meadows. Everybodythought the Valley was where it was allhappening until Dale Bard started climbingthere in the summers. He came back withstories of what we wanted to hear, “Thereare some killer boulders up there man.” Welistened to his tales of fine granite blockswith “crystals” on overhanging blank faces.Since we didn’t have cars we finally madeit up a few days later. The car stopped whenwe first saw the Cube. Then we hit theKnobs. It was all new. Pristine, unclimbedproblems were everywhere.There were already a lot of Bob Kamps’problems around and Dale Bard wasputting up some testpieces as well. TexasRadio and Machine World were some of hisbest. In the late seventies and early eightiesRon Kauk, Chris Falkenstein, Ed Barry,myself, and others had put up more stuff.By mid eighties, sport climbing had hit theStates, which allowed me to have the placevirtually to myself. People just weren’t intobouldering anymore, so by pure luck I hadthe good fortune of “discovering” the Gunksand bagging all the first ascents.Still, the majesty of the granite and thedepth of the blue skies draw, to this day,climbers and boulderers from all over theworld. Unclimbed gemstones are awaitingdiscovery by present and future dreamers.Regardless of the times or the fashions,the Meadows holds a mystique and a richtradition which will never leave us. It willcontinue to inspire us all at our deepestlevels.Spirit of The MeadowsBy Ron KaukThe summe of 1972 I found myselflearning how to stand in aid slings atPuppy Dome. I’d signed up for a week-longYosemite Mountaineering School course; Ithink they called it Alpine Craft. At 14 yearsold this was like living a dream. My guideswere TM Herbert – with his white t-shirtand cotton knickers he was the real thing– a true Yosemite climber; Chris Vandivertook us up on the Great White Book (5.6)in his Levis, styli shirt and longer hair; LoydPrice showed us how to make technical freemoves at the Knobs bouldering area beforeit was the Knobs bouldering area. To finishthe week my brother and I hiked to the topof Mount Lyell. It has been 36 summerssince then in Tuolumne Meadows for me.Every summer has brought new adventures,education and more understanding abouthow precious and beautiful these bouldersand domes are. Tuolumne continues toteach me about what it means to feel asense of place and how important it is forus to respect nature.As a climbing community we havebeen given a great privilege to climb inTuolumne Meadows. It will be up to usall to take good care of the areas we climbat so Let’s move into the future togetherand enjoy the opportunity and freedom tobecome better climbers and human beings.See you at the boulders.13F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M


T A M A R A C K B O U L D E R STamarack BouldersNumber of problems: 35 total/ 20 listedTime of Day: Sun/Shade MixDifficulty: VB-V6/7Coming from the west, these roadsideboulders are the first you come to onCA-120. Most are found on Tamarack FlatRoad and are only worth a stop if you justcan’t wait any longer, you’re camping at thesecluded Tamarack Flat Campground orit’s raining or snowing up in the TuolumneMeadows area. Not that there aren’t a fairamount of problems here, but compared tohow many are just 45 minutes away to theeast around the Meadows it is just a pit stop.The rocks are also not as knobby as theMeadows, having more edges, buckets,cracks, and arêtes. There are also a few goodproblems in the campground at the bottomof the road and potential for more all overthe Tamarack area.Driving directionsAbout four miles east of Crane Flat. About55 miles west of Lee Vining/CA-395 (about35 miles west of the Tuolumne MeadowsStore) on Tioga Pass Rd./CA-120 nearTamarack Flat. Follow separate directions tothe individual areas:Marcos Nunez flashes Tamarack Dyno (V2).the right at 0.3 miles from Tioga Pass Rd./CA-120. Parking GPS 37.76200, -119.77066ApproachNo approach. The boulders are alongsidethe road or within a stone’s throw.TAMARACK ROAD BOULDERSTamarack Road Boulders3.8 miles east of Crane Flat and about 54.5miles west of Lee Vining/CA395 on TiogaPass Rd./CA-120 turn onto TamarackFlat Rd. and drive downhill toward thecampground for 0.2 miles and park onthe left next to the main boulders or onNumber of problems by difficultyVB V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 ≥V111 3 6 4 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 014T U O L U M N E B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S


T A M A R A C K B O U L D E R S5213 4North Boulderso 1. V2/3★★ Short crack.o 2. VB★★ Left side of slab with jugcrack ledges or VB Jug arête on rightside of slab.o 3. V1★★ Bulge face..South Bouldero 4. V1★★ Flake to slab top.6, 70.2 to CA-120/Tioga Pass Rd12456121138 9 107151413o 5. V0★★★ Slab to hueco top – easyway to up/downclimb.o 6. V1/2★★ Left-hand undercling startto slope jug to top.o 7. V2/3★★ Right-hand undercling, goup left past slope jug to top.171816Dyno Bouldero 8. V1★★ Stand start on diagonalcrimper edges go up over short bulge.0.3 to CA-120/Tioga Pass Rdo 9. V? Steep slashed bulge/face.o 10. V2/3★★ Stand start in dirtyscoop go over short bulge left of“Tamarack Dyno.”1920to TamarackCampground15F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M


T A M A R A C K B O U L D E R So 11. Tamarack Dyno V2★★★ Stand startdyno from big jug to little jug – V3 Sit start.11a. V4 Low right start same as (V6/7) rightarête low start.o 12. V6/7★★★ Low start overhangingright arête – V5 Stand start.Hueco Mantel Bouldero 19. Hueco Mantel V0★★★ Stand start tipslayback dihedral up to hueco/thread mantel.(up/downclimb) – V1 Sit start.o 20. V1/2★★ Slab facing road.Green Faceo 13. V0★★ Diagonal crack up left side offace.o 14. V?★★ Center slab face.o 15. V1★★ Right slab face.Dirty Hueco Bouldero 16. V!? Steep bulge facing road.o 17. V? Center of face on the back hillsideto dirty hueco?o 18. V? Right face on back hillside pasthollow pockets to dirty hueco?2019The Roadside Classic; Hueco Mantel (V0)1011 1211a16T U O L U M N E B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

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