26 <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong>Central & north east <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong>CHRIS RENNIEOff the beaten trackAway from the tourist circuit around Antigua, thelandscapes of north eastern <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> form a forgottenland of deep green, wooded limestone hills, networks ofcaves with emerging rivers, and scattered villages scarcelytouched by the modern world. The region also hosts themost popular Mayan sites, Tikal and Copán (Honduras)deep in the jungle fastness and the Atlantic ‘highway’ toLivingston on the coast, running alongside the vast LakeIzabál. With improved roads the region is beginning toopen up to welcome visitors keen to experience the rich,multi-faceted traditional culture of this historic country.Verapaz and the PeténDaily from <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> City6 days, 5 nightsFrom £599pp based on two sharingTOM BOYDEN / LONELY PLANET IMAGESFollowing a night in <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> City,drive to Cobán (2 nights), perched ona limestone plateau, with a hike in theBiotopo del Quetzal cloud-forestreserve. Visit the series of picturesquenatural pools at Semuc Champey,where you may have a dip in the cleargreen waters before continuing tothe caves at Lanquín with theirunderground river and weird rockformations. Drive on from Cobán viathe huge Candelaria caves toSayaxché, situated on LakePetexbatún across which you will takea boat to Petexbatún Lodge for onenight. From here you will visit Mayansites such as hilltop Aguateca andCeibal, reached by river and hiddenamong giant ceiba trees and junglevines. Finally, drive to Flores on LagoPetén Itzá, your base for a visit to theruins at Tikal where you will have aguided tour of the vast jungle site.Return to Flores airport.Above: The Blue Morpho can be spotted onriverbanks throughout Central <strong>America</strong>.Above right: The carvings at Copán ruinsare spectacular and just a short walk fromthe town of the same name.Right: Castillo de San Felipe was built on theRio Dulce in 1643 by Spanish colonialiststo defend themselves against gold hungrypirates.Above: Semuc Champey. There’s a 300m limestone bridge on top of which are several naturalpools filled with crystalline spring water.GUATEMALAN TOURIST BOARDCopán, Tikal andthe CaribbeanDaily from <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> City8 days, 7 nightsFrom £646pp based on two sharingThis tour of Mayan highlights startswith 2 nights in colonial Antigua, witha complete day at leisure to explore.Drive through the Petén rainforest toCopán over the border in Honduras.The inhabitants of this 2500 year-oldsite were advanced in the arts, andball courts and towering columnsare on display here alongside therenowned hieroglyphic stairway.Spend a night close to the ruins andcontinue by road and boat toLivingston, where the Rio Dulcemeets the Caribbean Sea. En routeyou will visit the Mayan site ofQuiriguá famed for its intricatecarved stellae.Livingston’s brightly coloured housesreflect a thriving Afro-Caribbeanculture. Spend a night here and takea river trip along the Rio Dulce throughtropical forest and visit the fortressof Castillo de San Felipe, built to repelpirates 500 years ago. Drive on toTikal for 2 nights. For many this vastsite is the Mayans’ crowningachievement, the pyramids andtemples brought to life by prolificjungle wildlife: you will have a guidedtour here. Overnight in <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong>City.FRANCISCO ORELLANA / ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
<strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> & <strong>Belize</strong> 27Suggested itinerary<strong>Belize</strong> and <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong>Lodges in <strong>Belize</strong>CoppolaDaily from the UK13 days, 11 nightsAntigua 3 nights, Tikal (La LanchaLodge) 2n, Blancaneaux Lodge 3n,Placencia (Turtle Inn) 3n.MEXICOBELIZE<strong>Belize</strong>Tikal•• CityFlores••Blancaneaux•PlacenciaGUATEMALA<strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> City••Antigua HONDURASCoppola’s magicOn this page we feature the three stylish propertiesowned and conceived by film-director Francis FordCoppola, the design and furnishings of which reflectsthe wide-ranging travels of his family.Day 1 Fly to <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> City and drive to the former capital Antigua.Stay in a converted 17th century monastery. Days 2&3 Relax and takein the graceful beauty of this historic city and the trendy contemporarycafés and boutiques. Days 4&5 Drive to <strong>Guatem</strong><strong>ala</strong> City and fly to Flores.Stay at Francis Ford Coppola’s stylish La Lancha Lodge overlookingLake Petén, perfectly placed for kayaking or swimming. Excursion tothe spectacular Mayan ruins of Tikal. Days 6-8 A 3-hour drive intoneighbouring <strong>Belize</strong> to Blancaneaux Lodge, another of Coppola’sexclusive hotels, set in the forested surroundings of Mountain PineRidge and enjoying a temperate climate all year. Many optionalexcursions are available including river trips and horse-riding, andwildlife viewing is highly rewarding. Days 9-11 Drive to <strong>Belize</strong> City andfly to sea-side Placencia, an easy-going village with palm-fringedbeaches. Stay at Turtle Inn. Diving, snorkelling and trips along MonkeyRiver can be arranged at this Coppola property. Day 12 Fly to <strong>Belize</strong> Cityand continue to the UK arriving day 13.Prices from £1,321pp based on two sharing, excluding transatlantic flights.How about?›› Visiting Rio Dulce, Quiriguá or Copán as a side trip from Antigua (p26).›› A few days in the jungle; Chan Chich Lodge (p29).Below: There are around 500 structures at Yaxha and some of the taller pyramids provideexcellent platforms for bird watching.Bottom: When you get to Blancaneaux Lodge you’ll realise why Coppola chose to build theperfect luxury retreat amongst the cool hills and along the clear rivers of Mountain Pine Ridge.BLANCANAEUX RESORTS RAFE STONEAbove: Turtle Inn, Coppola’s coastal lodge, has a rustic exterior with an elegant interior.HotelTurtle InnFirst classPlacencia, <strong>Belize</strong>This opulent lodge is only a 30-minutefl ight from <strong>Belize</strong> City down to theperfect white sands of the low-keyresort, Placencia. There are 18 thatchedcottages, with large high-ceilings anduntrimmed thatch, polished hardwoodfl oors and a mosquito-nettedverandah overlooking the sea. They’redecorated with immaculate taste andattention to detail; hand-carvedfurniture, huge ornate doors andgrand beds. The sea is steps awayfrom the beach, and you can cool offwith a dip in the deep central pool.HotelBlancaneaux LodgeTourist class superiorMountain Pine Ridge, <strong>Belize</strong>This lodge is located among the cooltemperate forests of the <strong>Belize</strong>an hills,away from the tropical heat of thelowlands. The thatched cabins, allcharmingly decorated by the owner,feature polished wood furnishings.There is a fabulous stone fi replace inthe lounge, and the property isequipped with riding stables, a spaand mountain bikes. There are somehidden Mayan ruins in the vicinity, andyou can explore the river by canoe.Mayan experiencefrom La LanchaDaily from Flores airport4 days, 3 nightsFrom £391pp based on 2 sharingCombine a stay at one of the region’smost attractive, upmarket lodges withyour visit to the Mayan ruins at Tikal.Drive from Flores airport to the lodge,which is composed of a main buildinghousing the restaurant and thatchedbungalows (casitas) with decorationand furnishings inspired by indian art,linked by paths winding through thegrounds. The generous verandahs ofsome casitas overlook Lake Petén,on the banks of which the property issituated, others have views over thejungle. You will have a full-day guidedtrip to Tikal’s pyramid temples. On thefollowing day there are a number ofoptional excursions you can choosefrom at the lodge, including kayaking,bird-watching and sunrise hikes.On the third day, visit two lesserfrequented Mayan sites in the area,Yaxha and Topoxe. Return to Floresairport the following morning.Our commentThese three properties allow youa change of scenery, visitingdifferent local highlights, withouta compromise on standards.TURTLE INN