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ffMHOUEWRIGHT2O'rootstorage ShedBuild this shed and you'll havea perfect introduction to basicframing techniques, not tomention a perfect place tokeep yard tools and supplies.WoOoWORKING40Garden Work CenterHaving planting supplies andtools near the garden is a realconvenience. Let this simple-tobuildstorage cabinet/pottingbench answer the call.By popular demand we bring you the Tool Storage Shed plan, page 26.WeETeND PROJECT4Slnstall A CountertopBreathing life into yourkitchen may be as easy asinstalling new laminatecountertops. To getoutstanding results, it pays toknow the tricks the pros use.WonxsHoP53 vtoUile Planer StationThey say they're portable, butbenchtop planers are heavy.This wheeled plafform willmake your machine easier tomove, and provide an ideal shopor job site work station.Garden Work Center, page 40. Mobile Planer Station, page 53.Get superior results when you Install ACountertof yourself, page 48.\Torkbench I Tune 1998

De@6 QuEsrrorus &AruswERsL2ttps &TTCHNIQUESOven Tne Feruce18 x"*s and Eventslru-DeprH Revrew44rcuaers of the PackCircular saws come with allsorts of features and price tags.Go straight to the top to getpower, accuracy, and a toolthat'll last a lifetime.MnTUFACTURINGTips & Techniques, page 12.Ouer The Fence, page58m" on-Site SawyerHave trees you want milled? Savemoney, time, and your back byhaving a portable band sawoperation visit your site to cutlumber exactly how you want it.Heavy-duty circular saw performance - Leaders ofthe Pack,page 44.SHOp IvpRovEMENTs62 X"*Tool OfferingsWHAT,S NEW66 noaucts ForYour HomeCnnTTSMANSHIP72 e|ute of Two SawsFavoring a sidewinder or wormdrivecircular saw may be theresult of geographic destiny.Milling logs into lumber withThe On-Site Sawyer, page 58.\Torkbench I Tune 1998

Reaching [JsWhen we develop the Projects forWorkbench, the process usually takes along time. First somebody has an idea,often growing out of a problem or solutionthey experienced working in theirown home or shop. Then we all talk itover, make some sketches, take theidea in various directions, and eventuallyend up with a rough notion of whatwe want. Designers hone the idea stillfurther, until we all agree it's readYand sawdust starts to fly.The point is, I have a lot of resourcesto draw on, and our efforts end uP inyour hands every two months. I wisheveryone had access to the talentedcraftsmen I have around here.Well, you may not be able to talk tothem face to face, but I do know howyou can get their help, especially ifsomething is unclear in the pages ofWorkbench. We may not be right therewith you, but we're easy to reach.Here'show...\XroRKBllt\rCVOLUME 54NUMBER 3EDTTORChristopherA InmanAssocIATE EDITORSWilliam laHayKerry GibsonAS5ISTAT{T EDITOR David E. StoneART DIRECTORRobert L. FossSR. ILLUSIMTOR Erich lageILLUSTRATORSusan JessenCREATIVE DIRECTORTed lGalicekPHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTORIark SmothermonSENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Crayola EnglandPROJECT COORDINATORKentWelshSHOP MANAGERSteve CurtisSHOP CRAFT5MANSteve JohnsonPROJECT DEVELOPERKen MunkelPROJECT DESIGNERKevin BoyleELEC. PUB. COORDINATOR Douglas M. LidsterPRE.PRESS IMAGE SPEC. Troy ClarkMinniette BieghlerMatt TbRonde is our technical support expert. If you call (800) 311-3991 youcan talk to Matt about woodworking problems, and get help on tough spots inthe projects. Matt has heard it all, so don't ever think your question is toosmall to give him a holler. And if he doesn't have the answer right off, he'll talkto us and we'll work together to get you what you need. You can also write toMatt or to us at Workbench,2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, tA 50312. Be sureto send your Tips to this address too.If you're up to speed on the internet you can send a tip, message, or questionto workbench@workbenchmag.com and it will come right to our office.logging onto the Workbench web site at www.workbenchmag.com will put youin touch with a lot of good information as well as connect you with our forumson woodworking and home improvement. You'll find out about our other finemagazines, books and products, job openings, and links to dozens of web sitesin the woodworking and home improvementfield.You may need to tell us about a concern or problem with your magazine. Theeasiest way to let us know your needs is by calling (800) 311'3991'In addition to the internet addresses above, you can order hardware kits forprojects by calling (800) 311-3994Happy Farher's DayI0LSafety Reminder: Woodworking and home improvement are rewarding hobbies. But there is risk of injury. Usethe guards and read the manuals that come with your tools and equipment. And if youte uncertain about a technique,find an alternative with which you are more comfortable. Please take safety seriously.PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER Donald B, PesChKCADVERTISING SALES MANAGERSMary K Day (515) 282-7000 ext. 2200George A Clark (515) 282-7000 ext' 2201MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS MAMGERTara Meier (515) 282-7000 ext. 2135PUBLISHING CONSULTAT{TPeter H. Miller Q02)362-9367FOR HEIP WITH YOURSUBSCRIPTION CONTACT:WORKBENCHCustomer ServicePO. Box 842Des Moines, IA 503049961Phone: (800) 311-3991Fax 615)283-0447To ORDER WORKBENCH PROJECT SUPPTITS:cdl 1-80G311-3994TO SEND A LETTER BY E.MNT:workbench@workbenchmag. comFoR MORE INFORMATION ABOUTHOME IMPROVEMENT, WOODWORKING,GARDENING AT.IO COONHE, VISIT THEWoRKBENCH WEB SITE:http: //www.augusthome.comAudit Bureauof CirculationsWOH{BENCH (ISSN 004}8057) is published bimonthlv0an., Mar., May, July, Sept, Nov) by August Home PublishingCompany, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, Iowa, 50312.Workb e n ch is a rcgrster ed tademark of August HomePublishing. CoppightO1998 August Home Publishing CompmyAll rights reserved.Subscription rates: Single copy, $3.95. One yearsubscription (6 issues), $15.95. Canadian/Foreign,add $6.00 per year. Periodicals postage paid atDes Moines, IA and at additional offices."USPS/Heartland Press Automatable Poly."Postmaster: Send address changes to Workbench,PO Box 37272. Boone,1ASN374272.Printed in U.S-A-4 Workbench I June 1998

Questions &Ans\MersPanels Provide Access For Reattaching Window WeigfutsE(Al The rofes that are suffiosed to\ut .. -El hold my window weights arebroken. How can I get to the weightsoI can fix them?Bob AndersonMontauk. RIRepairing sash cords is simple,but getting at them takes a bitof work. The cords are attached to theedges of the sash and to weights thatride in a cavity behind the window'sside jambs. A pulley near the top ofthe jamb guides the cord. The weightcounterbalances the sash, making iteasier to raise and lower.On most windows, you can get to theweights through access panels locatedon the side jambs. Tb reach the panels,you first have to remove the sash andthe stops that hold the sash in place.Use a utility knife if necessary to cutthrough the paint or finish where theinner stops meet the jambs, and carefully pry the stops free. Remove thelower sash from the jamb. @emovethe parting stops as well if you plan toreplace the cords for the upper sash).Now you can get to the access panels.Remove the screw holding eachpanel, pull the panels out, and removethe weights nearest the inside wall (forthe lower sash) from behind the jambs.If any of the old cord remains, use itto size new sash cord, which you canpick up at a hardware store. Thenfeed the new sash cord over the pulleyinto the cavity. The cord can be toughto push through, so attach a fishingSHARE YOUR SUESTI(II{SIf you have a question about woodworking orhome improvement, write it down and mail it toW0RKBENCH Q&A, 2200 Grand Ave., DesMoines, [A 50312. P]ease include your name,adrlress and daytime phone number in case wehave any questions foryou. Ifyou like, Fax us at(515)283-2003 or send an E-mail message toworkbench@workbenchmag.com.6 W'orkbench I June 1998weight to a string and drop it in first.Then tie the cord to the string and pullit through. Tie the cord to the weightand replace the weight in the cavity.Weight cavitybehind casing.Tb determine the cords'length, holdthe sash at its fully raised position. Pullthe cord to raise the weight off the bottomof the cavity, and cut the cord justbelowwhere it attaches to the sash. Tiea knot in the end of the cord, insert theknot in the edge of the sash, and drivebrads through the cord into the sash.Repeat this process for the other sidethen reinstall the sash and inner stops.Cut cord to length, secureto sash with knot & brads,Receioable:MtgoPetrts. Production Direcfor: George Chmielarz . Ploductioil Ashtailf Suw Dickmm . Nea Media Manager: GordonGuppe . Web Site Art Director: Gene Pederson . Networh Ad.ministratol. Al Bilnes . I.S. Su\tort Asistazf Chris Hurimn . ldR,4$6tarti Ki6ten Koele . Slecial Prcjects Dilecrol. Saville lnmm. Adminbtratioe A$istaat; Julia Fish . Recettionkts: JeMe Johnsn,SherylRibbey. BuildingMaixt,:KenGriffithCirculation:SabscriberSeruic$Direclor:SmdyBaum.NeuBrein$Director:GlerdaKBatdes . Nea Broao Manager Todd Bieile . Proilztior Manager: Rick Junkins . Reweal Manager: Pdge Rogere . Billiw Manage/:Rebeca Cunninghm . A$ktailt Subsciltion Manager loy Knuse . A$ociate Graphic Daign Direcfor: Susie Rider . Senior GraqhicDaigter: Cheryl Simpson Books: Exuutioe &litor: Douglas L Hicks o Senior Crubhi Daigner: Chris Glowacki Prcducts Grcup:Oleratiow Director: Bob Baker . Mateliak Mailager: Mak Mattiussi . Cwtomel Senice M$: Jennie Enos . Warehowe SuPemisr:Nmcy Johnson . Buter: litda Jones . Qualily Control ?ecrl.: Frank Johnson . Tqhilml Semice Rep.: Matt TeRonde . Oreratio$,4$istartj Tmmy Ndni . Cwtomer Seruice RePs.: Ama Cox, Tamy Truckenbrod, Nmcy Domey, Adm Best, Deborah Rich 'Walehowe: Syllia CTey, Nmcy Comelly Woodnifi Storet Mailagel: Dave lason . A$istant Manager Paul Schneider . Salq Staff,Pat hwy, Wendell Stone, Jim Btrnett, IGthy Smith, Johr Johnson, Jerome Herr . Office Manager: y'rcki Edmrds

Adjust Bandsaw Fence to Compensate for Blade DriftWen I resaw on my band saw,the blade binds and cuts uneuen-Iy. The blade guida and tension are correct,and the fence is parallel with themiter gauge slot, so what's the problem?lohn YostLouisuille. KYEven when set up correctly,most band saws have someblade drift - a tendency to cut moreaggressively to one side ofthe blade.Because of drift, your blade won't cutparallel to the fence, even when thefence is parallel to the miter gauge slot.Causes of drift can be hard to trackdown, but confibuting factors may bethe saw's manufacturing tolerances,inconsistent blade tooth set, or uneventooth sharpness. Wood hardness andfeed rate can also have an effect.Ifyour saw is set up correctly andyou still get blade drift, the simplestsolution is to compensate for itby angling your fence to matchthe drift.To find this angle, draw astraight line on a scrap board,parallel to the edge. \Mith thefence out of the way, feed theboard freehand and cut alongthe line. Adjust your infeedangle until the blade follows theline and offers the least resistance.Stop the cut midwaythrough the board, then holdthe workpiece in that positionand shut off the saw. You'llprobably find the board's edgeisn't parallel with the mitergauge slot. Ifyourfence has anangle adjustment, move it against theboard and lock it in place at that angle.If you can't adjust the angle of yourfence, clamp a board to the table in itsplace, canted to the required angle.First rip a boardfreehand to find driftangle of blade.Clamp fence to tableat matching angle.Be aware that different blades maydrift to a greater or lesser degree, sodouble-check your fence angle whenyou change blades.Removing Painted WallpaperThe former ouners of our housepainted ouer wallpaper in onebedroom. How do I remoue it with aminimum of aggrau ation ?S. IosebhNashuille. TNIfyou are extraordinarily lucky,you'll have strippable paper correcflyadhered to a properly primedwall. In that case, you simply work acorner of the paper loose, then pull itoff the wall. ffyou have plaster walls,you can scrape off the wallpaper with asharpened, stiff-bladed broad knife.But a scraper can wreak havoc onwallboard, so in this instance the paperwill require soaking or steaming beforel)Itt, t,Teeth cut i'through paint :and wallpaper; 1but won't damagewallboard.it will budge. Your problem is that thepaintwill block penefation of the moisture needed to loosen the paper.One solution I've found is a clevergadget from Zinsser called the PaperTiger. This tool has teeth that penetratethe paint and wallpaper withoutdamaging the walls. As you work thetool on your walls, the teeth createthousands of tiny holes that allow themoisture to get behind the paper,making it easier to remove. (For moreinformation on the Paper Tiger, callZinsser at (732) 469-4367.)To loosen the paper's adhesive, youcan use a chemical wallpaperemoveror a steamer. Then genfly scrape awaythe paper with a wide-blade knife.Child-Safe FinishEDl fm building a cradle, and.I'm^vt :.-El not sure what finish to use. Whatcan you recommend ihat isn't toxic?Paul MarottoIsliP Terrace, NYThe simplest answer is to use afinish that's specifically statedto be "nontoxic." But that answer is abit misleading, implying that if thefinish isn't so marked that it will betoxic. In fact, most of the finishesavailable today are nontoxic once theyare completely cured.Until it's cured, any solvent-basedfinish may potentially be toxic. As thefinish cures, though, most or all of thesolvents evaporate.lead, formerly used as a hardenerin finishes and paints, is now banned,so new finishes don't pose that threat.You should be safe with most anyvarnish, polyurethane, or oil-basedfinish, or with one that's water-based.But for peace of mind check the label,then give the finish two to four weeksto cure before using the cradle.\Torkbench I June 1998

-lBent Hinge Pin Keeps Doors from SwingingA bedroom door in my homewants to swing closed on itsown. Short ofusing a doorstop, whatcan I do to keep the door open?S. FountainRoanoke. VACuring a self-closing door is asimple matter. Begin by closingand latching the door, and removingone hinge pin. Support the pinbetween two blocks of scran woodand clamp another piece of scrap overone end to hold it in place. Strike thepin with a hammer, hitting it hardenough to put a slight bend in the pin(about 1/:zr).Drive the bent pin in place and itshould put enough tension on thehinge to prevent the door from swingingclosed on its own. If the door stillswings, repeat the bending processon another hinge pin. You may alsoNotched blockneed to bend the pin a little more. holds pin in place.SupportblocksKerosene Puts a New Spin on Dirty Guide BearingsiN Srrurot of my router bits haue J^f iuio., gurde bea'ngs are al\!/lfpl guide bearings that don't turn EII shielded t-vpe. Unlike higherpricedsealed bearings, shielded bear-freely anymore. I keep them wi|ed off,but they catch euery so ofien and leaae ings have a phenolic cover that protectsthe bearings, but can let in finea burn marh on the work piece. Is thereanything I can do to loosen them up or dust. Try soaking the bearings inam I looking at buying new bearings? kerosene to flush out accumulatedDaue Warnick dust grime, but don't soak them forKirkland, WA too long or you could remove tooBend hingepin slightly(about |sz").much of the grease. Wipe the bearingswith a clean cloth and let themdry thoroughly. Apply a bearing lubricant,such as Bostik brand, before youreinstall the bearings on the bits. Ifthey still catch, replace them.Replacement bearings in a variety ofsizes are available from most routerbit manufacturers for about 35 to S15.!?'orkbench t June 1998Product Information Number 206

Tips & TbchniquesImprove Shop Storage with Overhead Pipe Clamp HolderIn my small basement workshop, Inever have enough storage room. I'vegotten good at finding pockets ofusable space everywhere I can, butI've never had a good solution forstoring long pipe clamps. I just leanedthem in a corner of the room, andmore often than not when I needed aclamp it was at the back of the stack.Because I have cabinets andshelves filling every wall, there's noroom for a wall-mounted rack. So Idesigned a simple two-part clamp cradlethat mounts to the last open spotin my shop - the ceiling. The cradlefucks the clamps into the unusedspace between the joists. With eachcradle, I can keep up to nine clampsstored conveniently out of the way.I started by driltns a series of holescentered along a 30rr-long 2x4 (thespacing is shown at righD. Then Iripped the board in half to yield twocradle halves with semicircular notchesfor the clamps to rest in.Drill 1 /+"-dia. holes centered in 2x4,then rip board into two equal halves.Designed for floor joists spaced 16" on center.ltl \l-6"-i \lf t l; t--6"---| / llllyr) Zyr")'-.-\2y2',2--'/I drilled two pilot holes into thecradles where they crossed the joistsand drove in 3rLlong screws. Most ofmy clamps are 48rr long, so I mountedthe cradles 36r' apart. You can varyMini Disk Sander for Drill PressY4" tlatwasherHIoccasional1ybuildtoys,Christmasornaments,andsmallgift boxes that have deep recesses drilled in them. Most:{\ ffi:i driil bit.l"uue the hole bottoms pretty rough, but I figured,, 'te7 '-:-: out a way to sand them on my drill press.1/r,, hexI cut a 3rr length olzlstt-dia. dowel and drilled a pilot holer nuts in the center of one end. Then I ran nuts onto themachinethread of a l/arr hanger bolt, added a flat washer,and screwed the wood-threaded end into the dowel.Glue a hook-andJoopad to the end of the dowel, puta sanding disk on it, and chuck the hanger\ bolt in the drill press. Keep the sandingpressure moderate so you can move theworkpiece around underneath.lay GeisellnConner, WAVa" dia,x3"wood IdowelMount cradles tounderside of ioistsusing 3"-longdrvwall screws.lZy". \ty""T3Y2"Ithe spacing between the cradles ifyou need to hold clamps ofdifferent lengths.Phillip BensonOklahoma City, OKCozy Sanding PadThey're designed to keep canned beerand soda cold, but those foam insulatingholders (called"cozys") workgreat for sanding concave wood surfaces.I used one (with an empty caninstalled) to sand some cove moldingI made in my shop. For tightercurves, I just remove the can.S]|ARE Y(}UR TIPS, llG$ AllD IDHSIf you have a unique way of doing something, we'd like to hear fom you. Just wite down your tip and mail itto W0RKBENCH Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312. Please include your name,address and daytime phone number in case we need to reach you. Ifyou like, Fax us at (515) 28!2003, oremail us at workbench@workbenchmag.com on the hternet We'll pay you $5G$150 if we publish your tip.t2W'orkbench I June 1998

C = too/center of the arcAlternate Arch TrammelA and B = ends of the arc- ---- --- ---- - A few issues back you showed how to draw arcs using a slatbent with string. I remember a technique I was taught as acarpenter - using a framing square to draw a circle. Thesame technique works for arcs, using a shopbuilt trammel.Start with a pair of thin (about V+rr) wood slats, and drill a7+rr hole near one end of each. Countersink one of the holes,insert a flat-head r/qtt-2} machine screw through it, and set theother slat over the first. Cinch the two together with a washerand wing nut.On your workpiece, drive two smallfinish nails on a line (A-B) to establishthe ends of the arc. Then mark thetop,/center of the arc (C), and adjustthe trammel "knuckle" so its insidecorner rests over this point while thelegs touch the nails at the arc ends.Crank the wing nut tight, then nesta pencil in the trammel's inside cornerand carefully work the assembly fromside to side, keeping the trammel incontact with both nails (A, B) as youmove. The slat length will vary withthe height and width of the arc, so fora safe margin I add these two dimensionstogether, and cut to that length.Oruille VittitowDayton, OHSave Your BackI've got a candidate for a great shoptool. Recently, I acquired an oldrolling office stool (the backless kind)secondhand from a local medical clinic.It has one of those beefy threadedposts for adjusting the seat height,and I figured I could use the screwmechanism to make a bench vise.Before I had a chance to take itapart, however, I got in the habit ofusing the stool around the shop. Iused to spend a lot of time standingwith my back bent over the work,maybe doing routing, sanding, orhand-carving. At the end of the day,I'd feel the strain in my lower back.Now I'm able to do a lot of that stuffsitting down. The wheeled base onthe stool makes me instantly mobile,the seat swivels 360', and I can adjustthe height to keep my back comfortablewhile I work.John RobinsonSt. Louis. MOr4Workbench I June 1998

Wheel ChocksPrevent MishapsLike a lot of home-shop woodworkers,I l'rave a shop that must double as agarage. Fortunately, it's just largeenough to hold all of my woodworkingtools and two cars. But in order toget the cars in, I had to rnount myrnachines on mobile bases so I canpush them agair"rst the back wall forstorage, and space is still tight.After I pulled in once and accidentallynudged my table saw with thecar's front bumper, I decided to makesimple wheel chocks for each car.Avoid Insing Your Drill Press KeyI'm forever sefting down small items, like my drill press chuck key, then losingthem because they blend into the mess. I'd swear that I spend more time lookingfor that key than I do using the drill press.One day, when I got to cleaning up the chaos, I found a piece of windshieldwasher hose. I slid it onto one end of the key's handle, and stapled the other end ofthe hose to the wall behind the drill press. Now the key is always where I need it.P AndersonHelena. MTUxnxrsHED To FrxrsHEDIx H,rLF TIIE TIvnlili1,1':i;I made the parking chocks frornscrap material - a t/4tt-thick plywoodbase l2rr-wids x 18rr-long, with a 12rLlong piece of 4x4 screwed flush withone end. To keep the parking chocksfrom moving around, I attached nonskidtape to the bottom. I drilled ahole near one end of the plywood so Ican hang the chocks on the wall whenI have the machines out. After I figuredout how far we could pull thecars into the garage, I painted markson the floor to position a chock underthe left front wheel of each car. Nowthere's no guesswork involved whenthe shop becomes a garage again.Stren either of us pulls a car in, itsleft front tire runs onto the plywoodand against the 4x4, stopping the carfrom rolling any farther forward.Joe OlsenRockwell City. TX*ffi*nkNowwoodfinishing',ffilong-lastingprotectionandatwice as fast, twice as easy Ir{UU$I;HI$ warm luster.with Minwax- Polyshades@. @tPolyshades comes in a r,arietyThat's because Pilvshndes ofcolors, and can be used overdcomDlnestarn ano potytostrip away the old finish. Polyshades.raw wood or even previouslyurethane in one. Stain tofinished wood, without havingadd rich color and enhance wood'snatural grain, and poly.urethane for A beautiful finish in a lot less time.Sraw & PorvuRHrHANE IN ONpffi@Minwu and Pollshades are registered tradernarks. ol99ti Minwx All rights rwwedMakes And Keeps Wood Beautiful'www.minwax.comProduct Information Number 191'Workbench I June 1998

News and EventsWoods of Hawaii Show HighlightsWoods of Hawaii is a show that gives species introduced to thethe islands'woodworkers a chance to islands. Many projects weredisplay their craftsmanship, while at built with woods we mainlandersmight never dream of,the same time serving higher goals -increasing awareness of the state's such as avocado, mango, andforest indusfry, and promoting conservancyof Hawaii's native wood species. obscure woods were used ineucalyptus. Other even moreSponsored by the Hawaii Forest projects as well.Industry Association, the sixth annual Judging by the enties I saw,showwas held in September of 1997, competition was tough, andand atfacted 58 woodworkers whose those who won were deservingof their honors.132 enffies vied for top honors.Entries were judged in seven cate Best ofShowgories including sculpfure, musical and People'sinstruments, and furniture. To help Choice honors forconserve native woods and increase 1997 went to Johnpublic knowledge of lesser-known Gonczar for hisspecies, rules allowed projects to containno more than 10% of four popular table made ofbeautiful roundnative woods; koa, kamani, milo, and pheasantwood andohia. These woods have been used eucalyptus, withfor generations by native Hawaiians striking koaveneer. Abowl hrnedand, like all woods, they carry great from Norfolk Island pine broughtcultural significance. In recent times, Patick Kramer first place in Turning.though, they've become threatened. And in Architecture. the award went toShow organizers encouraged using Matthew D'Avella's chest crafted fromlesser-known Hawaiian species and mango, koa, and Queensland maple.Into the Past - 40 Years Ago n WorkbenchIfs been said that e:rperience is the best teacher. AtPabhing holes in a faidy new mabrial called'5heet rccl{was easier if you first filled the gap with tin bil. Gadeningwas made easier with a porhble plywmd bench, while a racyphoto brcught rcaden'atbntion b elecidcal safety., worked to make agreatmagaine even'- better. Wete spent a lot of time poringthrough 40 years worth of issues to seehow the interests of doit-yourselfershave evolved. Ifs been fun looking back,and we thought you'd enjoy it too.This time, we've set our sights on Juneof 1958, when an individual copy cost 35cents, and a six-issue subscription was $2.One practical project offered was a plywoodgardener's bench that knockeddown for easy transport to the garden.Another article detailed a surefiremethod for repairing drylvall using tin foil.Apiece on elecfical safetyincluded aphotoof ayoung woman tuning a radio from thebathtub - shocking indeed!18 \?'orkbench I June 1998

Simple Tips SaveEnergr, MoneyAccording to the United StatesDepartment of Energy (DOE), manyof us could cut our energy costs by10 to 50 percent by making just a fewenergy-wise home improvements.Strile homeowners know theycould decrease their home's energyconsumption, many aren't sure whatprojects would be most beneficial. Tohelp them decide, the DOE teamedwith Owens Corning, establishingthe Energy Savers Partnership. Thisproject aims at helping homeownerssave energy to reduce expenses, butits loftier goals include reducing pollutionand fossil fuel usage.Booklet Offers Siding Care SolutionsNo matter what ffpe of exterior sidingyour house has - even if it'sclaimed to be "maintenance-free" - itwill require some periodic attentionto keep it in top condition.You may only need to clean andcheck for loose fasteners. Or you mayhave to paint, patch, and recaulk joints.KRAUSETo make siding care simpler, ABTBuilding Products Corporation(ABTco) is offering a fi:ee guide, titledMaking a House Call, that outlinesbasic siding maintenance procedures.Pick up the free pamphlet whereyou buy building materials, or bycalling ABTco at (800)5662282.'I iJrs orr Srrlilr

'{{sW'i.Trlrn An Old End TableInto Something Great lhAbout Half An Hou,r. i,Here's How:Step I Remove all hardware from the(knobs, etc.). In a well-ventilatedarea, strip the finishwith Krylon"" OFF! Paintand Varnish Stripper. Scrapeoff old paint/vzrnish.Step 2 Sand using medium grit paper (120, 150).Wipe clean with a tack cloth.Step 3 Prime with KrylonSandable Primen Choosea primer color based onfinished color of project.Step 4 Sand with fine grit paper (220).Step 5 Ifyou're doingmultiple colors, mask offthe areas you don't wantpainted. Apply two coats ofKrylon spray paint.(NOTE: Because of Krylon's special formulation,you can apply the second coat at any time.)Krylon Helpful HintWhy use a primer? A primer is qcellent for sufacepreparation because it frlls nicks, scratches, andimperfections. It alm smothe the 6nish for a betierappemce, enhmces color clarity, and improvespaint adhesion md long-term durability.f'or other great P/ojett ideas, get a 3GMinute MakeoDerboohlet at a retailer near you or call H00-4-KRYLON.Look for other added-ralue offers and our 30-MirtuteMaheore/ contest details.Does Anybody ReallyKnow WhatTime It Is?For some people, close enoughis good enough. Others,though, demand that everythingbe exactly dead-on. Askthe first type of person for thetime of day, and you'll likelyhear a generalization such as"about a quarter after ten." Askthe other, and you'll hear"exactly 10:17." It's for this latterkind of person that the folksat Klockit introduced the RadioControlled Clock Movement.The radio signal that controlsthis clock is broadcast from theNational Institute of Standardsand Technology's atomic clockin Fort Collins, Colorado. Thisclock sets the official nationaltime standard and is very accurate.And I mean accurate, as incorrect to within one secondevery six million years! This standardhas long been used to set the timeat government installations andimportant facilities.If knowing the exact time is importantto you, Klockit's RadioControlled Movement offers anaffordable way you can find out. Themovement receives the atomic clocksignal and adjusts itself daily. Inaddition, the movement resets itselfautomatically during the annual daylightsavings time changes. If the batteriesrun down, it's no problem.The NIST Atomic Clock seb the national time standard,accurate to within one second every six million yean.Replace them with fresh cells, andyour clock will reset itself to thecorrect time.The only real restriction with thismovement is that you have to use awooden, paper, or plastic dial. Metalclock dials won't work; they interferewith the unit's radio receiver.All this technology is stuffed into amovement less than 3rr-wide by4rllong and l/zrr-thick, which sells forunder S30. For more information onthe Radio Controlled Movement, callKlockit at (800) 55G2548.Free Help for Halogen I-amp OwnersTorchiere floor lamps with halogen bulbs have been tied to at least 189 fires and11 deaths since 1992. The fire hazard is due to the halogen bulb that sits exposedin a shallow bowl atop of the lamp. If the lamp is close to combustible objects, orif an object comes to rest atop the lamp, the bulb's heat can quickly start a fire.In February 1997 new Underwriter's laboratories (UL) standards were putinto place that mandate the bulbs on new lamps be repositioned and/or coveredby a protective guard, making them safer. But with about 40 million of the oldstylelamps still in use, concerns about halogen bulb safety remain.Ifyou have an old-style torchiere fixture, you can get a free bulb guardthrough a program set up by the Consumer Product Safety Commission andlamp manufacturers. To find out where to get a guard, call (800) 985-2220.1..t\fl- vtrnr@ 1998 Sherwih-Williams Diuenifed Brands, Inc.Product lnformation Number 186

I '1Garden Tool ShedEuer kear joke routines thatopen with 'You know you're oldwken . . ."? I used to tkink tkevwere fwnny. Today, koweuer, Iarn not arnused. It's not justthat rny legs went soutk when Itried to play soccer after a 10-yearlayoff, or that my waistline is takingon real estate more steadily than aglacier in an ice age. No, this ismuch more serious.It's the warm weather that's gotme worried. Back in rny collegedays, summer rneant biking to thebeach to gawk at the, er, scenery.Nowadays I get a whiff of balmy airand start thinking about landscaping, or building something outside.I'm not sure how this happened.Of course, a lot of people get theoutdoor bug when the sun startsmaking longer appearances. As if toprove the point, the results of ourreader survey came in with a clearleader in the projects-wanted category - a large number ofyou hopeto build a tool storage shed.The timing couldn't have beenbetter. 'l-he staff at Garden Gate,our sister publication, had askecl usto build a shed fortheir garden toolsat the Worhbenchhouse. They helpus out with thelandscapingthere, so wewere happy---to oblige.26 Workbench I June 1998

Floor panels(7+" pressurc-freated plyu,ood)Plaffom Construction ViewOVERAIISIZE:dq"H x g6"W x 120"1N0TE: Plywood seamsland over joisb.Floor joist(pressurc-treated,x4,93" long)Besides, they said my buddinginterest in all things green justmeans that I'm awfully mature formy (tender) age. Hard to say nowhen they put it thatway.Aside from the satisfaction ofbuilding the shed yourself, this project offers plenty of bonuses - asfong frame, good ventilation, abuilt-in workbench, and a loft toboost your storage space. Best ofall, ifs simple to build, and teachesskills you c:m use elsewhere.l.ofng the GrcundworkFloor options for a shed can includeanything from a concrete slab to agravel bed rimmed by landscapetimbers. We opted for a wood platform.The plafform frame attachesto 4x4 pressuretreated skids, sothe shed can be moved with helpfrom a truck, and the skids rest onnine 12rr concrete pads (PlaformC,onstruction View).We started by using nylon line toestablish guidelines for the shed'sfootprint To do this, drive two woodstakes 10 ft. apart and tie a linebetween them to mark the rear of(pressure-troat€d2x4, 120" long)Sklrls(prcssure-teated4x4, 120" long)the shed (Stringing Guidelines).Next, set two stakes 8 ft apart and1 ft. behind that line (at corners Aand B), wrap the sbing around oneand bring it forward to rnark a sidewall from B to C. Measure a 6&10triangle (to adjust each corner forsquare) as you drive and tie offadditional stakes to mark the otherwalls of the shed. Nexf set theconcrete pads in place (Figure 1).The pads must sit squarely underthe center ofeach skid and be levelwith each other so the skids arealigned properly @igure 2).Poaition the concrcte padso thqyrll becenbrcdiructly under the skids. All ninepads must be level wi[r each offier.NOTE: Rlm Joisb formsldes of platturmframe assombly,/\Any tiangle wltr sldes thatyleld a 3:4:5 rato wlll guaranteea right angle corner.Prcssupteabd 4x4's, with a genercus45" bwel at each end, sena as skids. Usethe guideline sfrings b poaition $em.two 16dgalvanized nailsInto oach Jolst end.\Torkbench r lune 199827

After you ma* the layout lines on the two rim joisb (indicatingthe location of each floor joist), nail the platfurm frame together.Align the frame and skids, check fur square, and fasten themtogether. Then screw the plywood flooilng to the joist platform.Go ahead and set the skids rightto the guideline strings, but don'ttake pains tweaking their exactplacement right now. You'll be ableto make minor adjustments as youadd the floor framing and decking.To prevent water damage to theshed base, we used pressuretreatedstock throughouthis assembly.Though they might seem undersized,the 2x4 floor joists span lessthan 4 ft. and are spaced at 12tt oncenter,giving us plenty of support.You'll need a pair of 1Gft. 2x4'sfor the rim joists - the boards thatmount along the two outside skids.You nail through these into theends of the floor joists, creating theplafform frame (Figure 3). Whenall the joists are nailed in place, takediagonal measurements of theframe and adjust it until both areequal, indicating a square assembly.Align the edges of the skids andframe, then screw or toenail themtogether from the inside of the rimjoists. Don'tforget to fasten the centerskid in place.T\e3/tn plywood flooring comesnext. The plywood's large squarecorners will help you doublecheckthe accuracy of your frame, so usethem to align everything, then fasten the panels with 1s7rtt-1ong exterior deck screws (Figure 4').Working from front to back, installthe two full sheets first, then thehalf-sheet. Each of the two seamsshould land over a joist so that allplywood edges are supported.Notching for ffie Girb: Gang-Cutting Saves TimeBuilding the Woll FromesThough the consfuction methodsare still simple, the wall framing is abit more complex than that of theplafform. There are let-in braces, orgirts, that strengthen the sides (seeNotching for the Grrfs), and youhave door and window openings inthe front and rear walls (FramingConstruction View).Here we switched to regular firframing lumber, using the deck asour work plafform as we nailed thefloor and wall plates to the studs(Figure 5). We set the girts in,secured them with a single nail ateach end stud, then checked diagonals to get the frame square(Figure 6). When it was right, wenailed the girts twice at each stud.To make our shed design really solid and provide afew more options for siding material, we added someframing details you won't find in prefab sheds. Weused 4x4 corner posts for strength, and we let in horizontal1x4 braces (called girts) along each side wall.In the days when barns and other buildings got boardand-battensiding, these girts provided a nailing baseand helped the walls resist racking from wind andother forces..Whatever the siding, though, the girtsmust lie flush with the frame. To accomplish this, wenotched the studs and corner posts using a techniquecal led "gang-cutti ng. "28Align and clamp bgether he stuG and poebbr one wall frame, Madr layout lins br henotches, ften mala a sedes of l+'deep cub.'Workbenchr Tune 1998With $e soring cub done, the bulk of thewasb will brcak loose. Use a chisel (bevelup) to do most of fte cleadng work.Clean up nibs and ofter high spob wih ahand plane. You have b go acrcss $e grain,but mlnor barcd won't aftc't the joinb.

HeaderCross-SectionsFront loft panelFraming Construction View0VERALL SIZE:91%"H x 96"Wx 120"1(including platform assembly)-\=ZEnd-wall top plate(2x4 fir, 96" long)(Ends extend overside wall,)Side-wall top plate(2(4fir,,113" long)Slde-wall plate(?r..4fri,120"Giil -(1x4 pine,120" long)Corner post(4x4 flr,797z" long)End-wall bottom plate(2x4 fir,89" long)(Cut fiom doorway openingafter walls In place.)Wall stud(2x4tir,7!/2" longl*Rough openlng slzed for Andersen A41 window.(Andersen Corp., 800-426-4261 )Panel sidingSide-wall bottom plate7y.16', x4B', x8iflA,,(2x4 fi6 120" long) (Louisiana-Pacif ic Corp.,800-648-6893)Window Framing DetailUse he shed floor for a work plathm asyou build the walls. The notched edges ofthe studs and postshould face up.Securc the gitb with a single nail at eachend, then measurc the frame diagonals.When you'rc squarcd up, nail in the $ft.'Workbench I June 1998

Tie wall corners with toP PlatesDouble top plates are a standard feature in"stick-frame" construction - the extra 2x4layerhelps tie the wall corners together. In our case,that meant extending the top plates of the frontand rear walls 3Vz" at each end so we could nailthrough them into the side wall plates.Nail top plates of end wallsRoising the WqllsAssemble each wall frame and setit aside until they're all ready toinstall. Then begin the installationby screwing one side wall to thefloor and nailing a brace at thefront end to steady it (Figure 7).Next, raise the rear wall so youcan get one corner locked in andplumb the walls together.We nailed up another temporary2x4 brace to hold the cornerplumb, then we raised the otherside wall (Figure 8). Finally, wepulled the brace off the front endand set the front wall in place(Figure 9). (If you want, you canleave the floor plate intact at thedoorway opening until after thiswall is secured.) \Mhatever finaladjustments are required to geteach wall standing straight andplumb, make them now. Once thesiding panels start going up, youwon't be able to budge the walls.As you finish nailing the wallcorners, check the alignment ofthe top plates. These are extra2x4's nailed onto the wall plates.They add strength to support theroof, and overlap to tie the cornerstogether securely (Pro Tip).loft StorogeIf you want to equip your shedwith the built-in storage loft, nowis the time to do it. Our design hasroom for a 4-ft. loft plafform at therear, a 4-ft. open bay for access,and another 2-ft. platform up front.Using 2x8's for the loft beamsallowed us to notch their ends tofit under the top and wall plates ofthe side walls (Figure 1O). Thismade the top edge of each beamflush with the top of the walls, andstill kept the bottom edges out ofhead-banging range for most folks.Although the shed is a tull 8 ft.wide, the loft plywood has to becut a little short so it won't interferewith the lower edges of therafters. We cut our panels 86rr long,then centered a notch in the edgesthat landed on top of the front andrear walls - leaving room for theridge posts still to come (I-oftInstallation Detail)..T'I;TtTI->I ttmilE!,nlt:'--'.-.'.-With one side wall screwed to the floor and held by a temporarybrace, set and plumb the rear wall, then nail the plate corners.Work your way around the shed perimeter as you raise the walls'Most of the braceshould stay until after the siding goes up.We fustened the top plate to the front wall before raising it' thennailed the extended ends to the wall plates of the side walls.Notch the loft beamso the top edges are flush with the walls'Set two beams for the rear loft, skip a stud, then add front beam.30'N7'orkbenchI June 1998

Ioft Installation DetailThese notches let you keep theedge of each loft panel resting on atop plate. Support from the frontand rear walls is critical - the panelsdon't reach to the side walls.The roof framing isn't far off atthis stage, and once it's done you'llhave no room to maneuver the loftplywood into position, so take careof that step now (FigUre I 1). Justmake sure the panels are centeredalong the end walls, so the notchesare positioned correctly for theridge posts. The other edge ofeach panel should sit squarelyover a support beam but notextend past it. Screw the panels tothe 2x8 beams so they can't shift.The loft plyurood has to go on beforc you get to the rcoframing, We cut our panels 85"long, notched the outboard edges for the ridge posb, then scrcwed them in place.Going for CoverThe siding option you choose foryour shed is just that - an option.You may decide to match materialson your home, or you may have tocomply with design restrictions ina planned community.In any event, this shed designoffers you the flexibility to do that.Cedar shingles will require support sheathing underneath, andI'd recommend the same for vinylsiding. Just about anything elsecan go on right over the studs.Panelized siding offers a mix ofstrength and economy, and thafswhat we chose. Louisiana-PacificCorp. (800-648-6893) recentlyintroduced an engineered woodproduct, EZ Panel, designed forutility buildings and other low-costapplications. Like T-111 plywoodsiding, its exterior face hasgrooves and a wood grain texture,but EZ Panel comes preprimedand is a compressed wood/resincomposite, not a plywood. It's closerto oriented strand board, but it'sdenser and has lapped edges.A temporary ledger board prcvided support for the siding panels whib we insblledthem. The bottom edge of the siding extends %" below the top edge of the skids.To make the installation easier,we snapped a chalk line 3/lrrbelowthe top edge of the outside skidsand screwed a support ledger inplace. We rested the panels on theledger, lined them up with ourstuds, and fastened the siding with6d galvanized nails (Figure f2).The corners will be covered laterwith trim battens, so don't worryabout lapping or joining them. Justmark and cut out the window anddoor openings (Figure 13).Mark the window cornen by drilling smallguide holes fiom inside the shed, then layout and jigsaw the cutout in the siding.W'orkbench r Tune 19983r

Ridge shingles(Cut fiom thrce-hbs.)Ridge beam(2x6 fir, 12 ft. long)Ridge vent(Molded plastic,three /l8" lengffis)Fly rafbr(2x4fir; nobid's-mouth)Metal rake edge(lnshll over felt)Bidge post(2x4 ffr)Common rafter(a(4 flr; seeRafter Elevations)Rear soffit panel*Rake boad(lx6 cedar)RoofConstructionViewFront sotft panel*.ofia siding matedal.Rafter ElevationsVNOTE: Test frt a pattern rafter bsfore cuttng o$ers.Bird'sMouthDetailSoat cutPlumb cutKeep rhe Roof SimpleBecause it introduces angled cutsand geometry, roof framing oftenleaves fledgling carpenters feelingoverwhelmed. This is especiallytrue of complex intersecting roofswith multiple angles and planes.We chose one of the simplest rooftypes - the gable - to keep thispart of the project manageable(Roof Construction View.)A gable roof has a single ridgeand two sloping faces pitched atAllow 1 " vqnt gap oneach side of ddge beam.equal angles. The roof's slope isdescribed in terms of rise over run- rise denotes the vertical distance from the top plate to the topof the ridge, and run denotes thehorizontal distance from the outsideof the wall to the centerline ofthe ridge. To keep the calculationmethod standard, the unit of run isalways 12rr. Our shed roof is builtto a 7-n-12 slope, which means itrises 7rr for every 12rr of horizontaldistance.Even for common rafters likethese, the calculations for thebird'smouth notch and rafter tailtake some explaining. But ratherthan bog you down in theory,wete provided a pattern to use forlayout (Rafter Elevations). If youreally want to learn the art and scienceof roof building, you'll need afull-length text on framing.Veteran framers usually test-fit apair of rafters before they cut theothers, and we did the same. Withthe bird'smouths seated on thetop plates, the upper ends of therafters should extend almost to thecenter of the ridgeline, leaving agap just wide enough for the ridgebeam - in our case 1Vzrr.Don't be afraid to deviate a littlefromthe measurements wete provided - slight variations in yourwall framing may require it. Onceyou're happy with the test fit, markyour "pattern" rafter and use it tolay out the rest (Figure 14).32 W'orkbench r Tune 1998

Test fit one or two raften to get thedimensions right, then use the "pattern"rafter to do layout marking on the rcst.Clamp the raften togethergang-cut the30' plumb cut for the bird's-mouth. Use ajig saw for the seat cub, one at a time.Install the fint rafters at the ends of the shed, fasteningthem to the top plates. The center gap at the top measures1V2", enough room to accommodate our 2x5 ridge beam.The loft makes a nice work platform for installing the ridge beam. After you install the common rafters, add theThe beam's front end overhangs the shed by 18", the back by 6". ridge posb, gable stlub, and the upper siding.ZFlashing Detailu.p.?r'I''l'nnI\lPaintIthis I"qlZ-flashingLowersidingFifting the RoftersThe plumb cuts at the ends of eachrafter will have to be made one ortwo at a time, but like the girtnotches, the bird's-mouths can begang-cut to save time - at leastone of the cuts can be. Clamp allbut the four fly rafters together -bottom edges up and ends aligned- and use a circular saw to makethe 30' cut across the batch(Figure 15). The angle for theseat cuts is too sharp for thismethod, so cut these individuallyCut an angled groove (for the soffit panels)in the fascia, then nail it to the rafter tails.The fly raften can then be nailed in place.with a jig saw or hand saw.Install the end rafters first, fasteningthrough the bird's-mouthinto the top plate (Figure 16).When both pairs are up, set theridge beam in place with the overhangat each end - 18rr at thefront, 6rr rear - and fasten the topends ofthe rafters (Figure 17).Mount the rest of the rafters thesame way, each positioned over astud in the wall. When they're allin, cut and install the ridge postsand struts (Figure 18). Then addthe rest of the siding to fiIl in thetriangular space at the top of thefront and rear walls. Because anunprotected butt joint between theupper and lower panels would certainlyallow water penetration, weused metal flashing here to createa much more weatherproof lapjoint (Z-Flashing Detail).To finish the roof frame, youhave to cut and install the 1x6cedar fascia boards. We used atable saw to cut an angled groovefor the soffit material, then nailedthe fascia to the tail ends of themain and fly rafters (Figure l9).The 1x6 caps at the front and rearedges - called rake boards - canwait for now. Next, nail the roofsheathing in place (Figure 2O).Keep the end joints staggered andlanding over rafters, and on eachside leave a |r gap between theplpvood sheathing and the ridgebeam. This space will allow airfrom inside the shed to circulateup through theYou can nail the sheathing down as soon as the rooframeis complete. Start at the bottom edge, and offsethe endjoinb of the lower and upper panels as you work up.Y/orkbench I Tune 1998 33

Working on the DerqilsThe structural work on the shed iswrapped up at this stage, but anumber of details remain. Asidefrom the obvious need for roofingand an entry door, we still have thesoffit panels, vents, window, andtrim to install.If you'll recall, we left the plywoodroof sheathing about an inchThe angled grcove cut in the fascia boardsprcvides support fur the soffit panels. Thebp edges rcst snugly against the siding.We used self-rimming soffit venb, fittedwith scrcen mesh that keeps out insecb.They press in, so the fit has to be snug.shy on each side of the ridgebeam. These gaps will allow warmair to rise up through the ridgevent so the shed doesn't turn intoa sauna on a hotAugust afternoon,but they can't work right without asource for incoming air, which weprovided via soffit vents.First, we cut soffit panels fromthe EZ Panel siding and fittedthem into the grooves in our fasciaboards (Figure 21). We slid thecenter sections in from the ends,then cut and fitted longer panels toDrill 2" holes in the soffit panels (between cover the front and rear roof over-the rafbrs) b house the soffit venb. Testfit a vent in scrap before drilling the holes.hangs. No trim is required exceptthe 1x6 rake boards at the gableends. You can install those now.Soffit vents come in varioustypes and sizes, but we opted forsimple metal ones that just pressfitinto place. Installation requiredonly a 2rr-diameter hole, which wedrilled with an adjustable hole saw(Figure 22). T\e size of thesevents can vary slighfly, so try atest run with your hole saw (inscrap) to make sure the fit is snugenough to keep the vent fromdropping out. To install, just pressa vent in each hole (Figure 23).Ideally, the total surface area forintake and exhaust vents shouldbe about equal. This is more critical,ina house; for a project fkethis the ratio is less important. Weused one vent per rafter bay oneach side, for a total of 10.If necessary, the window in therear wall of the shed can make upfor any shortage of vent area. Weinstalled an Andersen A41 awningwindow in our shed (Figure 24).The dual-pane glass and vinyl-cladexterior are nice features, but thebonus is really the awning designitself. An awning window swingsout at the bottom, so if you leave itopen deliberately for a little extraventilation, or just forget to crankit closed, you don't have to worryabout the shed interior and contentsgetting soaked from a summerthunderstorm.Speoking of RoinfollUnless you live in a desert climate,getting the roof watertight shouldbe your next priority. Wete provideda separate section on thebasics of roofing with asphalt shingles(see A Roofing Primer), butyou need to take care of some trimdetails before you start that.If you've ever filled a glass tooverflowing with water, you mayhave noticed that the liquid formsa small dome that's actually higherthan the glass rim. This happensbecause water has surface tensionthat causes it to cling to objectsrather than flow freely off of them.After we painted the siding, we installed our awning window inthe rcar wall. The nailing flange will be covercd with trim later.Aluminum drip edge flashing will keep wate runoff away fiomthe wood fascia. Nail it to the sheathing beforc the fult goes on.34'Workbench I Tune 1998

On sloped or vertical surfaces, asharp bottom edge will overcomethe tension and let the water fallfree, and that's what you need toaccomplish at the roof edge.Fortunately, the fix is quick andinexpensive. Aluminum flashingcalled "drip edge" extends the roofplane past the fascia boards andhas that sharp edge built in. Youjust nail it to the roof sheathing atthe lower edge (Figure 25).Some suppliers sell plastic dripedge, which works the same way.The other vulnerable areas ofthe shed include the window anddoor openings and the corners.Trim boards and caulking help outhere. Our Andersen awning windowhad a full-perimeter nailingflange, so after we installed andfastened it we nailed 1x cedar trimover the flange (Figure 26\. lfyou're using a different accentcolor like we did, I'd suggest painting(or staining) the cedar trimbefore you install it. It's faster andmakes for less cleanup work.To help seal the window, we applied caulk to the backof the cedar trim before nailing it to the siding.A Roofing Primer: The Basics of Three-Tab Asphalt ShinglesWater flows downhill. For seasoned roofers who taketheir craft seriously and beginners still trying to figureit all out, these three words represent the physics theymust not forget. Everything else is just a footnote.All successful roofing techniques work by directingthe flow of water rather than trying to stop it. A slopedroof plane is an obvious start, but that's not enough.You still need a watertight surface, and since it isn'tpractical to cover roofs with large one-piece shields,you have to use layers of smaller pieces. Every intersectionis a potential leak, though. The key is arrangingeach new layer to overlap theone below, so water follows itsnatural path down.After the sheathing and dripedgego on, staple on a layer of15-lb. or 3O-lb. felt, a heavyasphalt-impregnated paper. Startat the drip edge and work up,overlapping each course. Coverthe ends with metal rake edge.A starter course of shingles isnext. You make these by cuttingthe tabs off full shingles and nailingon just the top portion.Cutting ShinglesCut here to make starter shingles.A course of full shingles goes directly over thestarters, with the end joints staggered 6", an offsetthat is repeated with each new course.Common asphalt shingles typically measure L2" Iallby 36" wide and have two partial slits that divide thelower half into three "tabs". Once the starter and firstfull course are down, new layers cover about 7" of theshingles below, leaving a 5" reveal. The offset jointsprevent water from getting underneath the shingles.To cover the ridge, cut shingles at the slits to getthree square tabs, and nail them over the vent.Builde/s felt is the firt layer of protection A starter course makes for a double layer ofbr the sheathing. Cover the drip edge and shingles at the bottom edge of the rcof. Cutwork up, Add rake flashing at the ends. the bbs off regular shingles to make these.Gut here to make ridge shingles.Offset the end joinb of each coune 6'fiomthe one below. You can use the rcmnanbfiom cut shingles as starter pieces above.After nailing on a ridge vent, cut some "thrcebbs' inb l2"-squarc shingles for the ridge,lnstall with a 5o rcveal, same as on the slope.\Torkbench r Tune 1998 35

Cedar battens butt togethertilm the cornen. Install thenarrow battens on the side walls. the wide trim on the ends.Mark the hinge locations on the inside face of the door trimand trace around a hinge plate. Then rout a shallow mortise.Lumbero (g) 3/arrx 4ftx 8ft pressureteated pine plywoodo (2) s/strx 4ft.x 8ftACXfirorpine plywoodo (12) 1/2tt x 4 ft. x 8 ft. sidingr (3) 10ft. pressurefeated 4x4sr (3) 10ft. pressurefeated 2x4so (11) 8ft. pressureffeated 2x4so (4) 8 ft. fir 4x4 postso (6) 10 ft. fir 2x4's. (36) 8 ft. fir 2x4'so (8) 12 ft fir 2x4's. (3) 8 ft.2x8'so (2) 12 ft. fir 2x6's. (20) 8ft lx4cedar. (4) 12 ft. 1x6 cedaro (10) 8ft. lx6tongueandgroovecedar(FINISHES: 2 gals. solid colorstain for siding 1 ql solid colorstain for trim.)Door ond Trim Wrop ir UpThis shed is definitely a projectmost people want to build in stepsrather than all at once. By the timeI got the roof shingled, though, Iwas like a horse headed back to awarm stable - determined to gethome with no major delays. It wasmid-afternoon on a Saturday, and Ifigured I could cut and install thecorner trim, then build the doorbefore the weekend was over (seeAdding A Door).To keep the look balanced, thecedar battens for the shed's cornershave to be ripped to two differentwidths - unless you wantto bevel the rnating edges at a 45'angle, an unnecessary complication.On long stock like this, buttjoints are much easier.Rough-sawn 1x cedar typicallymeasures abottT/stt thick, so youjust have to deduct that from thewidth of one batten. In our case,we wanted a 3rr reveal, so the firstbatten at each corner was cut 27srlwide and nailed to the side wall,flush with the siding on the endWhat You'Il NeedHardwareo (9) concrete pads (2rrthick)r (4) T:hinges (min.4rrlong)r (2) slide bolts (min. 3rrlong)o (1) door/sate latchr (g) lbs. 6d galvanized nailsr (10) lbs. 16d galvanized nailso (6) lbs. 1%rroofing nailso (2) lengths (10 ft.) Z-flashingo (3) lengths (10 ft.) drip edger @) lengths (10 ft.) rake edger (1) roll 15# or 30# builde/s feltr (6) bundles asphalt shingleso (3) lengths (4 ft ) ridge ventr (10) 2rr-dia. soffit ventsr (3) lbs. #8" 21/ztt deck screwso (2) lbs. #8" lslarr deck screws. (1) lb. #6" lt/t't galv. screwsr (l) Andersen A41 awningwindow. (Modifu framing if usinganother size / We window.)wall. The second batten, measuring3rr wide, finishes the corner(Figure 27). Note the differentcuts on the top end of each batten.The narrow battens, installed onthe side walls, have the top endbevel-cut 30' to match the slope ofthe eave. The full-width battens,installed on the front and rearwalls, get a 30' miter cut to match.The doorway trim is almost asstraighfforward, but it has to go onafter the door is installed. We surface-mountedthe door hinges tothe shed siding, and for reasons ofboth aesthetics and security, wewanted to conceal them with thetrim. We routed two shallow mortisesin the back of each verticaldoor casing so it would nest overthe hinge plates (Figure 28).Iayout the mortises by markingthe hinge locations and tracingaround the plate. Cut the bottomends of the two long vertical casingssquare, and all the other trimends at 22r/z', then nail them inplace (Figure 29).We're always after extra featuresthat make a project better, and wehad a few in mind even before wefinished building the shed (seeShed Accessories on page 38).Sðer or not you decide toadd these custom touches to yourshed, you'll still have room foralmost any outdoor power equipment,plus an entire arsenal of gardeningtools. Storage problemsrarely get solved for good, buthere's to stemming the tide.tffi-The routed pockeb nest over the hinges.Cut the ends of each tilm pi*e al22lz"to tum the 45o cornen around the door.36\Torkbench t Tune 1998

The size and style of your shed doorcan vary according to what has to getthrough it. The dimensions we choseallow a lawn tractor with a 48" mowingdeck to enter and exit comfortably.At nearly 60" wide, however, a singledoor would have been heavy andunstable. By using double doors madeof 1x6 tongue-and-groove cedar, wekept the weight manageable.Start by ripping the grooved edge offof two boards. Use one as thestarter board for the first door.lining up the remaining slats bynesting the tongues and groovestogether. Lightly clamp the paneltogether (face down), sight along theassembly to check flatness, then screwthe Z-brace pieces to the backs of thetongue-and-groove boards. Assemblethe second door the same way.Trimming to fit involves cutting offthe 45" corner at the top and routing aclearance rabbet along the bottom.You can plane the inside edges to finalwidth after both doors are hung.Mount the hinges on the front face ofeach door, over the brace locations sothe screws have more to grab. Fastenthe short leg of the hinge to the siding,then cover it with cedar trim.Astragal(1x2 cedar)Z-braces(1x4 ceda0Door slats(lx6 tongue & groove cedar)Door casing (1x4 cedar)Scrcw horizontal and diagonalbraces to each bngue-andglorvecedar door panel.Scribe a template from the topof the door fiame, then use ilto lay out and cut the doon.A wide, shallow rabbet allowsthe bottom edges of the doonto close against the shed floor.For added security, we substitubda V+' caniage bolt forone of the hinge'plate screws.Use a shim (or an artra hingeplab) to crcate a Va'&parcund each door edge.We nailed cedar 1x2 stock inplace for a door stop molding.It also helps keep insect out.A narrcw wood strip, called anastragal, bddges the door gap.Fasten it b the left-han door.The left-handoor geb slidebolb top and bottom (inset);the right door geb the labh.W'orkbench I June 1998 37

Shed AccessoriesBuilt-in Workbench0VERALL SIZE:36"H x 24"0 x g5"LBacksplashfi4 95" long)\\.If buildins the garden shednhets your appetitewoodworking,N0TE: Fasten frame towall studs with 2/2" deck screws.We started with a built-in workbench,installed at the rear wall. Offor owtdoorcourse it's possible just to bring inyou don't haue a freestanding bench, but thisapproach gives you the work surfacewithout really sacrificing theto stop there. One of theof the project is the floor space below.The support frame for the benchconuenience it prouidesborrows the construction methodsfor working around the yard, and used to frame the shed walls, withyou can make the most of that a few minor differences. Use thevirtue by adding a few accessories. dimensions given for reference,There's certainly room for but measure your shed just in casehooks, shelves, and other hardwareto hang rakes, hoses, and nailed the stock together just likeyour wall framing varies. Weother seasonal tools, but we studs and wall plates, but used afocused first on making the shed 2xG for the front rail to make suremore functional and accessible. the bench was sturdy enough.rewardsadded,*?Notch DetailNote that the front rail extends3rr beyond each end of the frame.This allowed us to anchor it tostuds in the shed side walls. Wescrewed the back rail of the frameto studs in the rear wal-.The optional center brace canbeef up the bench for heavy loads.The ply'wood top came from thehalf-sheet we had leftover from thefront loft panel. We extended theplywood into the stud bays by cuttingnotches near the front cornersso we could drop it behindthe first wall stud. A 1x4 "backsplash"- added to keep smallitems from dropping off behindthe bench - completes the top.38\il/orkbench I June 1998

Removable Ramp0VERALL SIZE: 101/z"H x 60"W x 48"1Wheel Assembly DetailDeck planks(s/4x6 pressuretreatedbullnosedecking,60" long)Rear /'support rail(pressure-treated2x4, 57" long)z.z I

Garden Mbrk CenterYou could say that gardening isnot my strong suit. In fact, Ireceiae regular uisits from TheSociety for the Preuention ofCruelty to Plants. But I keepptugging away at it, hoping thatThe best part of the cabinetdesign is the dropfront door. Bymaking it with slats and leavinggaps between each slat, any spilledwater or soil falls right through. Fora quick housecleaning, I can evenhose off the door when I'm done.Thebevelededsesoftheslatskeep 7/attrain water from getting in the cabisomeday at least one of mythumbs turns a little green.Despite my lack of skill withplants, I can't resist applying manyof the same organizatipnal habits tomy gardening tools and suppliesthat I use in my wood shop. You'vealready seen the Tool Storage Shedwe built to store yard and gardenequipment (page 26). Now, to complementtheshed, I've builtthis gardenwork center to hang from theshed's wall. Keeping frequentlyused tools and supplies within easyreach of the garden is convenient,and allows me to enjoy workingoutside on sunnv summer davs.40 lVorkbench r Tune 1998net when the door is closed.Even though I built the workcenter for gardening, it's adaptableto other uses. With a soliddoor instead of slats, forexample, I could use it forstoring automotive supplies.Hardwood and fancy joinerycould also dress up thisdesign, but for use outside,keeping the construction .simple is essential. Usingrough-sawn cedar and rabbetjoinery made the work centereasy to build, and deckscrews provided plenty ofstrength at the joints.Building the CorcqseStart by cutting the top, bottom,and side panels to size, then rabbetthe side panels to receive the topand bottom (Garden WorkCenter Construction View).Since my cedar stock wasthick,I had to jockey my usualrabbet cutting setup a bit - thewidest dado my set cuts is 13/re".To get a wider cut, I installed theblade and positioned the fence fora 7/stt-wide cut. Then, using themiter gauge forsupport, I made apass with the endofthe stock bearingagainst the

Garden Work Center Construction View0VERALL SIZE:9"D x 761/a"W x 183ft"HGate hook eye-==f,l Double-loop chain22"-longDividers7/a" x7%,, x17,,Bottom panelVB" x8" x75Y4"Va" x3Y2" x743/e"6" strap hingeSide panel7/a" x8" x183/t"fence (Figure 1). To remove theremaining sliver of wood, I just ranthe stock over the blade a secondtime after pulling the stock awayfrom the fence a tad.Once youVe cut all the rabbets,hold the top panel in positionagainst the side panels and drillcountersunk s/szt|-diameter pilotholes into the rabbet joints. Note:make sure the top panel sticks out1rr in front of the side panels.Spread exterior-grade glue in therabbets $ou can use a water-resistantyellow glue or polyurethane$-----.atehook2"-longglue) and drive in the deck screws.Then do the same for the bottompanel installation.Next, cut the hang rail to fit intothe carcase. A snug fit helps squareup the box (Figure 2). Dry fit therail and check the carcase forsquare, then drill countersunk pilotholes into the side panels and top.Remove the hang rail and spreadglue on its top edge and endsbefore driving the screws. This railwill support the work center, so youwant good sfong joints here.Slat77s" x3Yz" x74YB"WhatYou'll NeedLumber(40) lineal feet of 1x12 rough cedarIlardware(36)#8x 2rr flat-head wood screws(36)#8 x lVlrr flat-head wood screws(4) L/z" r ilhr screw eyes(3) 6u sfaphinges(2) #3 doubleloop chain,24rr-long(1) 2rr gate hook-and-eye latch(12) adjustable shelf pinsDry fit hang railto assembledcarcase, then measure diagonalshang rail with#8 x 2" screwsthrough top andThe lt"-wide rabbeb in the side panelsrcquirc two passes over a dado blade -one against the funce, the other offset.Assemble the bp, botbm, and side panels using exbdor-grade glue and #8 x 2" deckscrcws. Then measure diagonally acrcss the carcase b check for squarc, and insbll thehang rail (be surc b glue and screw it b the side panels and top panel).\Torkbench lJune 19984r

Divider Detailf3Y2"fIt 7/e"U-.Tv\ 'Tt.rl^)"rL 4l5"7%"1'!/lqThe dividers must be square to the top and bottom, and fit snuglyaround the hang rail. Check all this before drilling countersunk pilotholes through the top, bottom, and rail, and driving #8 x 2" screws.A pegboard template simplifies drilling the%"-dia, x 3/s"-deep shelf support pinholes. Use a stop collar for insurance.Installing the dividers splits thecarcase into three equal compartments.They also add strength and,with the addition of r/,'tr-41orn"1."tholes, accept the shelf support pinsthat hold the adjustable shelves.Measure the inside height of thecarcase to cletermine the length ofthe dividers. 1'ake your measurementnext to a sicle panel, in cascthe bottom panel is bowecl a little.Cut two clividers to length anclnotch one corner of each piece to fitaround the rail(Divider Detail).To rip bevels, tilt your table saw blade 45" and set the rip fence 33/+" away from the blade.Bevel one edge on all five slats. Then, without changing the fence setup, bevel the otheredges on four of the slab. Make sure both edges on each piece slope in the same direclion.Now clry fit the dividers. Makesure they're in position square tothe carcase. then drill the counter-A Wotershed DesignWith the carcase completecl, turnone eclgc'only; the rest have bcvelson both eclges.your attcntion to builcling the Culting a full bevel along thedropfront door. It's a sirnple assemblyslats' eclges woulcl have left sharp,consisting of five slats helcl fi-agile corners, so I cut a partialtclgether by three braces (D

The length of the three bracesmatches the length of the dividers,minus 1/s" for clearance (167/e,ttinmy case). Cut the braces to lengthand bevel their ends at 45', leavingu tTntt-wide shoulder like you didon the slats.Instolling HingesAt first, I planned to assemble thedoor at this point, then mount straphinges to the door's face. But I realizedif l followed this path, a paltrythree screws in each hinge wouldhave to carry the load, which couldbe substantial when the door'sladen with pots and bags of soil.To get all the screws to contributeto the cause, I sandwichedthe hinges between the bracesancl the bottom slat (HingeDetails). Since I wanted the bottomslat to sit flush with the otherslats, I recessed an area in eachbrace for the hinge flap to rest in.Center a hinge on each brace andtrace around the flap (Figure 7).Next, use your router and aTrace aroundhinge flap to markCenter a hinge on the face of each brace,and butt the hinge knuckle against thebevel. Then trace around the flap.1,/+'Ldiameter straight bit to rout arecess in the outlined area(Figure 8). Set the bit depth tomatch the thickness of the hingeflap. Don't worry about shapingthe recess exactly, but do rout tothe outline or a little beyond. Therecesses will be completely coveredby the botlom slal.Now fasten one ofthe double-beveledslats with its bottomedge flush with thebottom ends of thebraces. Make surethe bevels on this slatare oriented the sameway as the bevel onthe top slat. Drill fourcountersunk holes inthe slat where it intersectseach braceAssembling the DoorCorrectly orienting the bevels onthe slats is critical to the door's abilityto keep rain from running into (spacing them tothe work center. So as you assemble miss the hinges) andyour door, pay close attention when drive the screwspositioning the slats.After screwing a hinge to eachbrace, I found that attaching thetop slat (the slat with only onebeveled edge) to the braces is the(Hinge Details).Space the remainingslats equally, anddrill two pilot holes ateach crossover withbest way to begin the door assemblythe braces. Then(Figure 9). Align the square drive the screws.edge of the top slat flush with theends of the braces, and drill twocountersunk pilot holes at eachcrossover joint location. Drive adeck screw into each pilot hole.Use a %" straight bit to routhe hinge flaprecesses. Rout just beyond the outline, to adepth that equals the hinge flap thickness.BraceDoor Meels CqrcqseBring the subassemblies togetherby centering the door on the carcaseand drilling pilot holes in thebottom panel for the hinge screws.Unlike the door hinge flaps, theseflaps are just surface mounted.Supporting the door in the openposition is handled by two lightdub/chains. Drive screw eyes into oneslat and attach one end ofthe chains(see below). Hold the door level andpull the chains taut under the toppanel to locate another set of screweyes. Drive them in, and attach thechains. Installing a gate hook andeye will hold the door shut.I mounted the work center to theshed wall by driving 3rllongscrews through the hang railinto the studs.My future as a plant-manmay be up in the air. But nomatter how it goes, I know Ihave a work area that'ssure to be admiredby real gardenerseveryrvhere.tflHingeDetails\.j Bottomslat\,/.J< ..) EndView- HingeTop View-Attach the top slat fint, then the boftom slat (be sure the outboard edges are flush withthe ends of the braces), Position the remaining slat so that all the gaps are equal.Workbench I June 1998

.fu'. sDgWALT*1,{i{!//1i/rrtTra/rn1/'s._ . r,a"w**-*ffiii+yq,;aLeaders of the PackBesides a trusted harnrner anda tape rneasure, the rnostindispensible tool a carpenterowns is a heauy-dwty circular saw.It's wkat turns files of frarninglurnber and stacks of plywood intoa finished structure. These sawswill rip, bevel, and crosscut. Installthe appropriate blade, and they caneven tackle concrete, tile, or metalpipe. Then again, these saws arebuilt to handle such jobs, unliketheir consumer-grade counterparts.Professional saws come withmore powerful motors, strongergearboxes, better bearings, and araft of options not typically foundon lower-priced models.Whether you're buying yourfirst circular saw or looking toreplace one, it's worth taking aclose look at the models the prosuse, particularly when you considertheir combination of oower. versatility,and durability.lhe 71/c" StondordCircular saws come in a variety ofsizes, designated by their bladediameter. They range from 33/s"cordless trim saws to 16rr or largergiants used in timber frame construction.By far the most commonsize is 71/qtt. Using a bladethis diameter allows the saw toremain fairly compact, yet providesplenty of bite to powerthrough 2x stock with the bladelaid over at 45" .Most manufacturers also offersmaller, easier-to-handle versions- sr/ztt to 6r/zr - that will still cut2x material at 90". Though not aspowerful, these scaled-down modelsare typically the saws of choiceamong finish carpenters.44 Workbench r Tune 1998

Worm-drive PowerCircular saws come in two basic"flavors" worm-drive andsidewinder - based on the motorposition and type ofgearing.Worm-drive saws have motorspositioned parallel to the blade, anduse a worm gear transmission topower the blade. These deepmeshinggears, such as those in the SkilHD77 (below), produce a bladespeed of about 4,400 rpm (comparedto 5,800 rpm for helical-gearsaws). However, this slower speedis more than offset by an increase intorque. Using a similar transmissionwith hypoid gears (below),Makita claims its longer, spiral-cutgears mesh more smoothly and positivelythan conventional wormWorm Gear Assemblvgears. Whatever the hypoid's advantages,other manufacfurers haven'tseen fit to give up the proven performanceand durability of wormgear transmissions.To further boost performance, asealed oil reservoir gives the gearsand bearings a continous bath oflubricant, reducing wear and dissipatingheat. As a result, wormdrivesaws can gang-cut plywoodor Iraming lumber without boggingdown or stripping out a gear.I first experienced this rawpower brzzing through soppingwet, pressure-treated deck lumberwith a borrowed worm-drive. (Myold saw had already died trying tocut this soggy stuff.) I also rememberhow my wrist and forearmached after 10 hours of hoistingthat beast into cutting position.These saws typically weigh 15 to18 lbs., making overhead cuts animpractical and often painful experience.But skilled framers use thisweight to their advantage by proppingup 2x material on edge, andmaking crosscuts verfically, lettinggravity help pull the saw downthrough the board.Because the motor configurationputs the handle further back, I alsofind a worm-drive saw extends myreach when cutting a sheet of plywood.That long rear handle, combinedwith having the blade on theleft side, also makes it easier forright-handers like me to eyeballstraight cuts.Sidewinder SpeedThe other main type of saw hasthe motor mounted perpendicular,or sideways, to the blade. Henceits nickname, sidewinder. Top-endmodels use spiral-cut helical gears(lower left) to transfer the rotationHypoid Gear AssemblyHelical Gear AssemblvCodless Saws: Lightweight and MobileIn addition to drill/drivers, the recent boom in cordless tools has includedcircular saws. Increases in voltage and battery output have made itmore feasible to create cordless saws, and a number are now availablein L2- to 18-volt models. However, these saws are no substitute for theircorded counterparts when it comes to large-scale or continuous cutting- they don't have the power or cutting capacity to compete.These tools shine in applications where a heavier corded tool is tooawkward or power isn't readily available. DeWalt's line of cordless sawsall use 53/e"-diameter blades and weigh in at less than 8-lbs. These leftbladedtrim saws will easily cut 2x material at 9O", but weren't designedto make one-pass bevel-cuts in that lumber when tilted to 45".Makita offers 9.6-volt and 12-volt saws with 33/a" blades, whilePanasonic carries two L2-volt models in 43/a" and 53/e" sizes. Skil offersa 12-volt, 33/e" model equipped with a diamond-tipped blade and awater bottle - it's designed specifically for wet-cutting glass and tile.\Torkbench I June 1998 +>

Porter-Cable 843 Porbr-Cable '147moto/s shaft todriveshafl While lackingthe worm-gear torque, these gearsallowhigher speeds thatin turn canproduce smoother cuts.Most sidewinders have theblade on the right, althoughPorter-Cable offers left-bladed versionsof its framer's saw. Despitethe fact that having the blade onthe right makes it hard for righthandersto view the cut I'm willingto overlook this shortcomingbecause the saw is easier on myarm - sidewinders tip the scalesin the 1G to 1&lb. range. And whenI fim the end of a board, most ofthe sara/s baseplate (and weight)rests on the workpiece. However,this wide base - the result of thesideways mounted motor - cansometimes get in the way whenyou need to make a cut in acramped location.From a cost standpoint, you cangenerally expect to pay more for aworm-drive saw than a sidewinder.Worm-drive saws start at about$150 and go up to $200, while contractor-gradesidewinders sell forroughly $12G$180.Pivot pointsRegardless ofthe type, you shouldlook for several things in a circularsaw. You want one with a sffong,flat base. Stamped steel base shoesare more prone to bending andflexing because they lack the reinforcingribs found on cast aluminumor magnesium bases(shown on the saw at upper left).Blade height and bevel adjustmentsshould operate smoothly,but lock firmly. The blade heightadjustment you'll find on mostsaws consists of a fixed pivot pointon the front of the saw and an arcshapedguide at the rear.An exception are two rear-pivotingmodels offered by DeWalt(center). To raise or lower theblade, you loosen the front handleknob and the saw pivots around apoint at the rear of the base.A third type of mount - thedrop foot - doesn't have a pivotpoint. Instead, the saw rides on avertical rail system. Milwaukeehas used this design for years onits 637S20 saw and earlier models.For standard cutting, any typewill do, but I have a preferencewhen making plunge cuts. I likethe smooth control I get witheither of the pivoting styles. Thedropfoot style has a tendency tobind and grab - something toavoid for this precise work.All saws will tilt to 45' for bevelcuts andmanywillgo all the wayto 50o, which isuseful for rafter cutsin roof framing. Of those,have locks at 45oso you don't accidentallyslide past to 50'. A fewwill tilt 3o to 5o in the oppositedirection - a neat feature if youneed to back-bevel a piece of fimbefore scribing it to a wall.Other ConsiderotionsMost highcnd saws have a spindlelock, which makes changing bladesa snap. The lock button should beeasyto reachwhile holdingthe sawin one hand and loosening or tighteningthe arbor nut with your otherhand. For added convenience, lookfor a model with on-board wrenchstorage in the handle, like themodel shown above.Some saws (below) have leversthat let you retract the bladeguard. This feature keeps yourhands away from the outside of theblade guard and increases yourcontrol during the cut.I'd also recommend a saw withan elecftic blade brake. This stopsthe blade in a fraction of a secondafter you release the power switch- a particularly nice feature if youconsider the blade is exposed46'W'orkbenchI June 1998

when the blade guard retracts duringa cut. Many manufacturersoffer a brake-equipped version ofmost models for $10 to $20 more.My next saw will also have softstart.This feature lets the motorslowly come up to speed, greatlyreducing the wrist-wrenchingtorque generated by a powerfulmotor snapping to fuIl speed whenyou pull the trigger switch.One key feature many buyersoverlook is the cord. I want a cordthat remains pliable in cold weather,and that's at least &ft. long togive me room to move around.Several companies offer optionalplugs with twist-lock prongs. Theylock together with mating twistlockextension cords or outlets, sothey won't come loose when youtug on the cord.Which to Choose?So which saw is best? Both andneither. Professional framers haveused both types for years, so itdepends less on what you need itto do, and more on just plain personalpreference (see A Tale ofTwo Saws onpageT2).A quick poll of Workbenchstaffers showed that most ownboth types (or would if we could).Then again, we're all tool fanatics.But in trying to justify owning bothsaws, I heard some commonthreads of wisdom. If there's a jobthat requires high torque - gangcutting treated lumber or sawingout concrete or masonry - we allreach for a worm-drive saw.For trimming sheet goods ormaking cuts that require lifting thesaw over waist high, we'll grab thesidewinder. After that, it turnedinto a heated debate related tobrand loyalty and ambidexterity.Suffice it to say that for mosthome woodworkers, any of thesepro saws will meet your needs andlast a lifetime. If you can, visit abuilding center and handle severalmodels to get a feel for how they fityour hands. Find one that feelsgood, buy a good blade for it, andyou're ready to rumble.tH24"ii'ii' "Cutting Edge AccessoriesMount the proper type of blade in your circularsaw and you can cut just about anything.For general purpose cutting in wood, a thin-kerf,carbide-tipped blade ot 20 or 24 teeth (for a 77/+"-diameter saw) is hard to beat. Many of theseblades have expansion slots to dissipate heat,some have non-stick coatings, and a few, such asFreud's Diablo series have a raised area behind thecutting tooth that helps prevent kickback.Remodeler-type blades, such as DeWalt's RockCarbide Extreme blade, have L4 to 18 teeth, andcan cut through nails and fasteners without throwinga tooth or diminishing the blade's cutting ability.lf you need to cut masonry, concrete or stone, youcan equip your saw with a dry-cut diamond blade.While expensive ($5O-$8O), these blades have gritalong the edge of the blade and last much longer than thesolid abrasive grit blades. For cutting ferrous metals such as,)ri.*+T-pr l.? ...1fi5steel bar stock, lrwin's Metal Star and Vermont American's new Steel Cutterblades are carbide-tipped alternatives to aluminum-oxide cutoff wheers.Need to cut larger material? lf so, you have a couple ways to boost thecapacity of your 77/q" saw. The Big Foot Saw Adapter converts your wormdrivesaw to handle a LO"-diameter blade, giving you the capacity to gangcuttwo layers of 2x stock or slice through a 4x4 in one pass. Consisting ofa blade guard housing and baseplate, the 10" kit, complete with blade, isunder $2OO. For information, call Big Foot Saw Adapters, QO2) 565-9954.Another extra-depth option is the Prazi Beam Cutter, an adapter kit thatlets you install a chainsaw bar,chain, and drive gear onworm-drive saws. Offering acutting capacity of 12", thecutter sells for approximately$150. ContactPrazi USA. at$oa)747-1490./f',$t

Install A CountertopNew cabinets haae a powerfaleffect on a kitchen remodelingproject. In terms of layout andbudget, few improaements ca,rryrnore weight. But when it comesto aisual impact, countertops canplay an equally important role.Using color, texfure, and edgingdetails, countertops easily holdtheir own alongside vast expansesof cabineffy.With a .rainbow of colors tochoose from, not to mention thevariety of materials available, ifs asure bet you can get the uniquelook you want. And, if you'researching forways to revitalize yourkitchen without financing a secondmortgage, paint and new countertopsmay offer the adrenaline boostyour tired old decor needs.48 \U?'orkbench r Iune 1998In our case, we added customcountertops to the new Merillatcabinets we installed recently inconfributing editor Bob Settich'skitchen. (We chronicled that firstphase of our remodeling project inThey selected laminate (455660Scopra) for the counter surfaces,and picked a backsplash (SS profile) and edging (SE style), all fromWilsonarlThe edging and backsplashhave athin accent stipe thatthe April 1998 issue of.Workbench.) breaks up the expanse ofthe counters.(For more options, turn to SrrMany materials were ruled outearly because they simply weren't Eary Ed,girg Ideas on page 52.)within the budget Bob and his wifeBarbara had set for the project. Moking it SeomlessWhat the budget allowed was plasticlaminate covered countertops. sions, we went to work. The firstOnce the Settichs made their deci-Bob considered going to a local thing we did was order Medex forbuilding center to purchase post-the base layer, or substrate.formed units - those with thebacksplash and edging formed inone piece - but in the end optedfor sitebuilt countertops. Thechance to pick a laminate and addedging of their choice was a bigfactor in the decision. They alsoliked the idea of a seamless corner- a feature I'll explain later.Medex is a water-resistant versionof medium-density fiberboard(MDD. Ifs stable, smooth, andflat, and we found it easy to frim,despite the clouds of fine dustthatbillow up when you machine iLCreating invisible seams withlaminate is difficult, and oftenseams become glaringly obvious

iCountertop Constuction ViewLeg sectionCorner sectionCleatBase cabinelcorner brace0peningfor

Use a jig saw to cut the substrate rcughlyto your scribe line, keeping to the wasteside of the scdbe line.Complete the trimming to the scribe lineusing a belt sander. Tilt the sander slightlyb undercut the edge for a better fit.Don't worry about minor gaps -they'll be covered by the backsplash.The main concern is to getthe front edge of the substrate parallelwith the base cabinet faces.If you need to remove a lot ofmaterial, use a jigsaw to rough outthe cut (Figure 5). Abelt sanderworks well for "sneaking up" tothe scribe line (Figure 6). Tilt thesander slightly to undercut theedge. This will make it easier toadjust the fit againsthe wall.Satisfied with the fit of the cornerpiece, next we turned ourattention to fitting the leg section.In Bob's kitchen, the end of thispiece also butts against a wall, sowe couldn't just cut it to length; wealso had to scribe the end for atight fit.First, we laid the leg on top ofthe base cabinets and corner section,butted its end against thewall, and established the uniformoverhang. Then we measured theamounthe leg overlapped the cornersection at the butt-joint. Afterwriting this measurement down,we measured the widest gapbetween the wall and the other endof the substrate. Then we addedthegap and overlap measurementsplus 1/s".Using this sum, we set our compassand scribed the substrate'send to the wall. By cutting alongthis scribe line, we also trimmedthe leg to the proper length.Accurately fitting the back edgeof the leg to the wall could only bedone with the leg dry-fitted to thecorner piece (with biscuitsinstalled). Bob and I slid the substrateassembly against the wall,checked the alignment with thecabinet fronts, and scribed theback edge of the leg.Once the back edge wastrimmed to shape, we slid it backinto place to check the fit.When you're satisfied with thefit, remove the substrate sectionsand place them upside down on aflat surface. Squirt glue into thebiscuit slots and run a bead alongthe ends to be joined, then clampthe assembly together (Figure 7).Post-Formed Countertop Simplifies the ProcessPost-formed countedop is readily availableand simplifies installation sincethe laminate is already applied andthe backsplash and edging are integralparts. The key, as with any countertop,is to make sure the countertop alignsparallel to the front face of the basecabinets before you scribe it to thewall. A lip on the rear edge of thebacksplash allows you to easily trimup to V+" when fitting it to the wall.When you cut post-formed countertop,use a fine-toothed crosscut bladeand saw through the backsplash first.Then clamp a board to the bottom ofthe substrate to hold your saw flushwith the edging cleat and guide theblade as you make your cut.You can order pre-mitered pieces tomake right-angle turns. A bead of siliconesealant and drawbolts are usedto join the two pieces, making themitered joint tight and flush.Aftsr aligning the front edge with To cut a post-fomed counbrbp,the cabineb, scribe the backsplashto the wall with a compass. splash with a fin*bothed blade.begin by sawing through the back-A guide clamped to the undenide After applying a bead of siliconepub the saw flush with the edging caulk, use drawbolb to pull thelip and contrcls the cut.counterbp joint tightly bgsther.50 \W'orkbench t Tune 1998

In a few hours, turn the substrateover and scrape offany squeezeout.ff necessary, apply wood filler to anylow spots, and sand it smooth.Loying the LominqteOur laminate arrived a couple ofweeks after we ordered it andcame loosely rolled up in a cardboardcarton. I carefullyunfurled itthe day before we planned toattach it, laying it flat to removeany "memory" of being curled.When laminating large pieces, Iallow at least two inches of overlapon all sides. This way, I have littlerisk of misaligning the laminate onthe substrate once the contactcement is applied - errors here aretough to undo. (For details, readl^aying Inminatw in the December1997 issue of. Workbench.)Apply two coats of contact cementto both the laminate and substrate,and use spacer sticks to hold thelaminate above the substrate untilyou have it positioned. After removingthe spacers, secure the bond byworking over the entire surfacewith a roller. Trim the excess with arouter and a flushcut bit.Once ifs tdmmed b fit, place the substrab Using the slot cufting bit sold by the edgingmanufacturer, rcut the edging mount-srtions upside down on a lwel surface,then glue and clamp them bgether. ing grcove in the edge of the substrate,After fitting the mitercd ends of the edging, glue the long edging piece in place, usingcauls to apply clamping pressure evenly. Then glue and clamp the remaining edging.Adding the EdgingOur edging had a tongue for mountingit to the substate. The tonguefits in a groove that we had to rout inthe appropriate edges of the subsfate (Figure 8). Because this edgingprecisely overlaps the countertoplaminate, the grooves had to bepositioned with dead-on accuracy.Using the special slotcutting bitwe purchased with the edging, werouted test grooves in scrap to setthe router depth. Then we routedthe grooves in the countertop.We cut all edging for the countertopa couple of inches long, andstarted our fitting process at theinside corner of the "L'. Once wehad a tight-fitting miter there, wemarked and mitered the oppositeends, then mitered mating piecesfor the outside corners. We cutthese last pieces to lengttr so theybutted against the walls. Applywater-resistant wood glue to theInstall braces against the upper cabineb near the back edge and clamps along the front.These hold the countertop firmly in position until the construction adhesive dries.edgrng, and clamp it firrnly in place(Figure 9).After checking the fit one lasttime, we applied construction adhesive to the top edges of the base cabinets and carefully set the countertopin place. Braces, wedges, andclamps held it firmly in placeovernight(Fiepre 1O).Before removing the braces, wedrilled holes through the cabinetcornerbraces and drove screws intothe substrate cleats @igure 11).Befure you rcmove he bracing, ddll pilotholes hrcugh the cabinet comer bnces,and ddve scrcws inb the subsffie cleab.-WorkbenchI Tune 19985r

Finishing UpThe only task remaining was toinstall the backsplash. Using aready-made backsplash made thisfinal step a simple process.Since Bob's walls were somewhatout of square, we decided to copethe corners instead of miter them- itwas actually easier and gave ustighter joints (Figure 12).The long piece went in first, thenwe coped the short pieces to fitagainst it. Even though Bobplanned to install a row of ceramictile above the backsplash, wescribed and trimmed it to get goodcontact along the wall. We applied athin bead of adhesive to the backand bottom edge of each backsplashpiece, and pressed them intoplace (Figure 13). We took care toclean up the squeezeout, and whenMiter the end of the baclsplash, then usea coping saw to tilm away the orcess,following the edge of the laminate.the adhesive set up, we caulked theseam with clear silicone.While we wanted to stand backand admire our handiwork,Barbara reminded us that thekitchen still needed the sink andappliances installed. At least sheInstall the longest piece of baclaplashfint, then install the coped piece againstit. A bead of caulk wraps it up.was willing to overlook the plywoodunderlayment on the floor -for the time being. We plan to wrapup that final phase of this kitchenremodeling project with laminatedwood flooring. We'll be done soon,Barbara. We promise!tMSix Easy Edging IdeasWhen we first looked at edging for the countertopgoing into Bob's kitchen, we were amazed at thenumber of options available commercially. We alsofound them easy to install and simple in their construction.And though we found the perfect manufacturededging for our project, we wondered how easy itwould be to create our own shop-built versions.So in a display of true do-it-yourself spirit, werounded up some scraps of laminate and substratefrom Bob's remodeling job and put together a fewedging ideas of our own. We were also curious tosee what our second edging choice - a black, solidacrylic commercial molding - looked like with ourlaminate, so we created a sample with it, too.We routed a groove in the back edge of our moldings,as well as in the countertop substrate, to accepta wood spline. We also routed details in the frontedge of some moldings, such as the groove for thebrass or Corian inlay, before we installed it on thesubstrate. With the front details shaped, we glued theedging to the substrate. Then, we applied the laminateso it overlapped and bonded to the edging. Ourfinal shaping on the front edge, whether a flush-cut,roundover, or chamfer, left us with a seamless transitionbetween the edging and laminate.You'll want to use a neq carbide-edged router bitwith a guide bearing to do the final trimming. lt alsohelps to hone your technique on scrap samples firstbefore tackling the real thing.Mahogany with bowlbit rcuted prcfile52 \Torkbench rJune 1998

Mobile Planer StationIt used to be that thicknessplaners were found only inprofessional cabinetry ormillwork shops. But inrecent years, a number oftool manufacturers hau erolled out benchtop models thatmake it possible for home woodworkersto enjoy the benefits ofsurfacing their own lumber. SinceI got mine, I now buy rough-sawnlumber that costs less and is higherquality than the surfaced lumberI used to buy. Ifs also great tobe able to machine stock for a cabinetface frame or a panel glueupand know that all the pieces are auniform thickness.While I'd be among the first tothank the tool companies forputting such capabilities within mygrasp, I have a small bone of contentionto pick with the marketingguys who attached the word"portable" to these machines. At65 lbs., my planer doesn't getmoved much further than fromthe shelf below my workbench tothe benchtop. Even with the builtinhandle, it's just too heavy tocarry easily to project sites outsidemy shop, although there are timeswhen I could use it.Ittook moving some heavyboxeswith a twowheeled hand fuck toratfle loose the idea of mounting myplaner to a twowheeled frame. Theframe I built is designed to span apair of sawhorses to create a workstation, much like the portablemiter saw station and router tablefeatured in the December 1997 andFebruary 1998 issues of. Workbench.The hardboardcovered plywoodplafform effectively tripled thelength of the planer's ouffeed table,so long boards are supported afterpassing under the knives. Thishelps reduce snipe, and the slicksurface of the hardboard lets themoving stock slide along easily.\Torkbench lJune 1998

Ut/heelMountingBlock ,-Portable olanerPlaner baseplate3/4" x22" x25''(plywood)----\Planer Station Consfuuction Viewffi x 1/2"flat-headw000 screws[,{0VERALL SIZE: 53/a"H x24"W x 60"10utfeed platform - skint7a" x 22V2" x 30" (hardboard)I I-I5lo" T-nut\516" x 3" hexhead boltWheel mounting blocky1lz" x 4s/a" x22tr\Rail DetailsVHandleTop ViewSide View/1",rJAY(:lfJ':B3/q', +t 2,'l+'tsyz,,1il,* 0,,WhatYou'll NeedLumber(1) half-sheet of 3/arr plywood(1) half-sheet of 1/+rr hardboard(2) 10-ft. fir 2x10'sHardware(2) 3rr-diameter fixed casters(4) 5/rorrT-nuts(4) s/rct' * 3rrbolts with nuts(4) 5/rc" flatwashers(8) #10* 11lzrr pan-head sheet metal screws(64)#8 "1%rr flat-head wood screws(9) #8 "3rr flat-head wood screws>4 \Workbench I June 1998The ouffeed plafform mounts to atrio of wood spacers attached to theframe structure (Planer StationConstruction View). Varying thethickness of the spacers allows youto match the ouffeed table height ofmost portable planers on the market(those with fixed beds and movingcutterheads like my Delta 22-560). It was also easier to trim aspacer than to adjust the thicknessof an integral piece of the frame.Building the FromeBecause the whole purpose of thestand is to make the planer easierto move, keeping weight downwas a major consideration. I chose2x fir for its strength-to-weightratio, but buying clear, straightgrainedfir 2x4's proved impractical.However, I sorted through astack of 2x10's and managed tofind a couple with sections of relativelystraight, knot-free wood.

To further reduce the weight andget square-edged, straight boards,I milled the wood to 1rr thick (seeRe-milling 2x Stock To Square, OneSide at a Time on page 57).Start by ripping the rails,stretchers, and baseplate supportsto width, then cut them to length.Next, make the 45" cuts on bothends of the rails (Rail Details).With the stock cut to size, clampthe rails together with the insidefaces up (Figure 1). This helpswith laying out matching dadoes forthe stretchers and supports. Keepin mind that the middle dadoes are2rrwide because they each join withboth a stretcher and support.I cut the rail dadoes on the tablesaw with a s/rtt dado blade and awood etension on my miter gauge(Figure 2). To cut each ilLwidedado you'll need to make two passes. You can get consistent results ifyou clamp ut'lnrt-thick setup block tothe fence. Make the first pass afterbutting the rail against the setupblock, and moving the fence to alignthe inboard side of a dado layoutwith the edge of the blade. Then,butt the end of the rail against thefence and make the second pass. Asyou setup for each dado, be sure tomake the cuts in both rails.Cutting the 2rlwide rail dadoesrequires three passes. Using mylayout lines, I cut the outsideedges of the dadoes first, thenremoved the remaining piece ofstock with the third pass.It may seem like extra trouble toput rounded corners on thesawhorse notches, but I had a goodreason for doing it. Past experiencehas shown that if I cut the notchessquare, splits are more likely tobegin at the inside corners.Shape the notches in the rails byfirst drilling 1/2" holes - for therounded corners (Rail Details).Then remove the stockbetween theholes with the dado blade raised to1/zrr (Figure 3). By lowering theblade to r/tt',you can remove the bitof stock at the ends of each notch.Now spread glue in the raildadoes and clamp the frame assemblytogether. Check for square, thendrive two screws into each joint.Cut the 34rr pl)ryvood baseplate tosize, and screw it to the baseplatesupports. As insurance againstsplitting and splinters, I sanded aslight roundover on all the outsideedges of the frame assembly.Adding the CqstersProviding solid support for thewheels called for beefier stock, so Iused a length of 2x6 for the mountingblock. Rip a 45' bevel on oneedge, mark and measure the widthof the block, then bevel the otheredge (Figure 4). An atxiliarywoodfence helps keep the sharp edge ofthe bevel from stpping underneaththe fence. I also use a push blockwhen ripping bevels - to applydownward pressure and to keep myhand well away from the blade incase the workpiece binds betweenthe fence and the blade.I-ower the blade slightly, movethe fence toward the blade 34", thenflip the mounting block over, andcut a third bevel (Figure 5).lnsurc a squarc frame by making the rails mirrcr each ofter,Clamp the rails together wift the inside faces up, then layout the dadoes. Unclamp the boards b mafi the edges.To prevent any movement during the cut, clamp the rail tothe miter gauge. For the firt pass, butt the nil end againstthe setup block. Use the funce to align the second pass.With the dado taised 12", nibble away the waste betweenthe %"-dia. holes you drilled to define the notches. Thenlower the blade and cut the wood below the holes.oillilt*-,=--=-\S-=s-=-\Begin making the wheel mounting block by beveling both edgesof your stock. An auxiliary wood fuce prevenb the beveled edgefrom slipping underneath the fence during the second cut.Complete the wheel mounting block by moving the funce towardthe blade 3/+" and ripping a second bevel, which meeb the firstone right at the center of the block's edge. Finished width is 45le",\Torkbench I June 1998 55

---7\v llTurn the frameassembly upsidedown to glue and;;;; i,ounti,,g// block in place. Next,// posinon the casters,,4 keepinsthem atleast 2rlaway from the rails toavoid the screws you justdrove through the rails into theends of the mounting block. Markthe screw locations, drill pilotholes. then secure the casters.Insert a brad-point bit ttrrcugh the mountingholes in the planer base, and bp it tomad< the hole locations on the baseplab.After you mount the casters, cutthe handle and bumper to size.Rout the edges with a r/zuroundover bit, then screw thepieces to the frame assembly.Mounfing fhe PlonerWhen I designed this project, Ienvisioned bolting the planer tothis plafform only when I neededto take it out of the shop. (I guessI still planned to store the planer inits "designated" spot under myworkbench.) Plastic knobs weregoing to make mounting the planera quick, tool-free operation.Funny how reality can changeyourplans. fu I slipped the machineonto the mounting bolts, I discoveredthat the planer's base didn'tallow enough clearance to use wingnuts,let alone plastic knobs. Somuch for quick, tool-free mounting.But after using the station, I realizedmy original thinking wasflawed anyway. By having the planerpermanently mounted, I benefitTap a T-nut into the mounting holes in the baseplate. Slip a washer onb a har-headbolt, and thread the bolt up fiom the bottom. Use a wrench to tighbn the bolt and drawthe T-nut flush with the surface of the baseplate.Use a lerel b check alignment of the plane/sinfted and outfeed hbles, Adjusthemaccording to manuhcturc/s instructions,from the extendedoufeed platformanytime IClamp the platform pieces in place, thenmeasurc betrveen them and the outfeeitable to determine spacer height.use the machine. And the stationcan be propped against the wall ofmy shop when ifs not needed.'To begin the mounting process,center the planer between the railson the baseplate, and align the endof its ouffeed table with the oufeededge of the baseplate. Once I linedeverything up, I inserted a 3/stbrad-point bit through each of theplaner's mounting holes and gave ita tap to mark the hole positions(Figure 6). I removed the planer,drilled shallow 3/4tt-dia. counterboresto seat the T:-nut flanges, thenswitched to a3 /s" bit and drilled thebolt holes through the baseplate.Install T-nuts in the baseplate byfirst tapping them into the holeswith a hammer, then drawingthem tight with a bolt (Figure 7).Slip the planer onto the bolts andadd washers and nylon-insert lockingnuts to the assembly - vibrationmay loosen standard nuts.Outfeed PlotformNow that you've mounted the planer,ifs time to build the ouffeed platform.But before you start, check tomake sure your planer's infeed andouffeed tables are level with thebed. Follow the manufacturer'sinstructions for making theseadjusffnents - Delta recommendsusing a level to fine-tune the22-560's tables (Figure 8).Once you have the tables set, cutthe plywood and hardboard to sizefor the oufeed plafform, and clampthe pieces in place on top of theframe assembly sfetchers. Extenda level off the planer's ouffeed tableand measure the distance from thebottom of the level to the plafform(Figure 9). Add Vs'r to this measurementand you'll have the thicknessofthe spacers you need, plus alittle extra for final fitting.Rip the spacers to this width andcrosscut them to length. Positionthem on the stretchers and clampthe pladorm panels in place, makingsure their ends butt againstthe planer's ouffeed table. Lay astraightedge across the ouffeedtable and the plafform to see how56\Torkbench I June 1998

much the spacers need to betrimmed (Figure 1O). Run thespacers through the planer at thesame time to trim them equally.Drill countersunk pilot holes inthe spacers and screw them to thePlace a straightedge acrcss the planer outfeedtable and platform to determine if thespacem are the correct height.stretchers. Now you can reclampthe plywood and hardboard in placeand drill countersunk pilot holes toscrew the panels to the frame.Since it's likely that the edges ofthe outfeed platform will getbanged up, I added solid woodtrim for protection. Cut fir trimstrips to size and screw them tothe edges of the plafform.Finishing UpA wipe-on oil-varnish finish andpaste wax provide further protectionfor the planer station. Removethe planer, and mask the edges ofthe hardboard where it meets thetrim strips. Then sand the entirestation, except the hardboard, to120-git. Hardboard's exceptionallyslick surface doesn't require sandingor finishing. Apply two coats ofvarnish to the sanded areas, thengive the entire station two coats ofpaste wax.Wheeling the station to my pickupfor the first time was a pleasure.To load it, I simply leaned the handleend on the tailgate, then liftedthe planer-end and slid the stationinto the truck bed.Maneuvering the station ontothe sawhorses is a similar two-stepoperation. First, I lift the planerendonto a sawhorse, then I walkaround to the handle-end, lift it,and slide the second sawhorse intoposition. You'll find,like I did, thatmoving and setting up your planerhas never been so easy.tffiRemilling A( Stock To Square, One Side at a TimeI've used simpler methods and tools to mill lumber,but with the amount of woodworking I do it reallypays to have machines dedicated to just that task.Now that I've complemented my 6" jointer with abenchtop planer, truing up stock is easy. I used thebasic technique shown here to get the straight, flatboards I needed for the mobile planer station.To get your firut reference surface, millone face of the board flat on the jointer.Keep the cupped face, if any, down.Next, send the boad thrcugh the planerwith the jointed face against the bed,Once flat, altemab faces fur each pass.Begin by surfacing one face of the stock on yourjointer. (This establishes the reference surface yourplaner needs to produce a flat board with parallelfaces.) Take shallow cuts (under Yro") joint one"nOface flat in multiple passes. Then run the board,with the same face down, through the planer.At this stage, it's unlikely that the board's edgesare straight or square to the faces.You can fix that by using a guideboard to rip one edge straight on thetable saw, or go back to the jointer fora few passes. After you machine onestraight and square edge, you can ripthe board close to final width. Thentake a few finish passes on the jointerto remove the saw blade marksfrom each edge. lf the board is thickenough (l consider 3/4" th" minimum)and not too wide, you can also run iton edge through your planer.Curued edges can be trued up wift thebble saw and a guide boad. 0r, brlight edgefimming, use the jointer.With one edge now sfaight and squarcb the boad faces, you can rip theworlqiece close to'rb final width.To rcmove saw mafts, he finish passeson both edgeshould be made on $ejoinbr or, if the size allows, the planer.\W'orkbench I Tune 1998 >/

The On-Site SawyerThe morning after a seaere stormrolled through toutn, I went outsideto inspecthe trea in my backyard.'4s I'dfeared, the high winds hadfatally damaged an ancient blackwalnut, uprooting it from theground. At least it missed thehouse as it fell.I hated to lose that beautiful feeand the shade it provided. But Ihave to admit that I'd often lookedat its long trunk and imagined allthe beautiful boards hidden inside.The fork of the fee, especially,showed promise of the exceptionalfigured crotch wood sometimesfound in walnut trees.ln Seqrch of c ScwyerWith help from some friends and afew chainsaws, I separated the firewood from the parts of the fallengiant worth saving. I kept onelarge diameter limb, and cut thefunk into two 9-ft. long sections.There was no way I'd be able toload and haul these heavy logs to asawmill. So I decided if I couldn'tget to the mill, the mill would haveto come to me.I called the folks at Wood-MizerProducts, a portable sawmill manufacturer.They keep a list of millomers who will come to your siteto do custom cutting. (Anotherportable mill maker, TimberKing,also maintains a nationwide list ofsawyers for hire.)Even though I'd seen demonstrationsof these mills at woodworkingshows, I couldn't helpfeeling excited by the thought ofgetting closer to this kind ofmachinery (and the hope that I'dget to take some of this serioushorsepower for a spin). So I wasreally geared up when Burl, theappropriately named sawyer fromWood-Mizel arrived at my housewith the big orange beast in tow.As we unhitched Burl's topof-theline LT40 mill. we talked about itsfeahres (I could just imagine TimAllen grunting his approval overeach one). Like all Wood-Mizermills, the LT40 has a horizontalband saw that rides over a bedequipped with log hold-downs.58W'orkbench I June 1998

Power comes from either a gasoline, a furbocharged diesel engine,or an electric motor. The enginepowers the saw, a L2-volt hydraulicpump, and a generator that keepsthe battery charged and runs severalsmall electric motors. Thesemotors position the cutting headand move the saw along the log bed.Getting the mill ready to run wassurprisingly simple: adjusting fivelegs that level the cutting bed andsupport the mill when loaded withheavy logs. Turning the ignitionkeybroughtthe 3Fhp engine to life.Looding the LogWhile the engine warmed up, \ryerolled a log to the mill using logger'scant hooks - without themwe wouldn't have budged the beast(Figure 1). As the log turned, Burlinstructed me to check for nails,spikes, or any metal that could present a hazard or dull the blade.Checking for metal is especiallycritical if the tree was located alonga fence row or where signs mayhave been attached to the trunk.Some sawyers won't even milltrees taken from these locations.A visual inspection may notreveal objects buried in the log, somany sawyers use metal detectorsto search for hidden hazards. OneWood-Mizer owner tells a wild taleabout hitting a horseshoe embeddedin an oak tree's trunk, buriedas the tree grew for years until itfinally surrounded the metal.After moving the log onto themill's loading arms, the LT-40'shydraulics took over, picking up theWith help fiom Burl, Assistant Editor Dave Sbne rclls a log onto the mill's hydraulicloading arms. Logge/s cant hooks, or peaveys, give much-needed leverage.log and depositing it on the mill'sskids. To get the best yield and thelongest, flattest boards possible,Burl positioned the log to avoid cuttingacross any bends. I watchedwith awe as he deftly maneuveredthis immensely heavy hee branchwith slight flicks of the levers controllingthe hydraulic hrner.Moking the CutThere are several techniques formilling boards from a log. Thesimplest is flat-sawing - cuttingslices without moving the log.This method results in the widestboards possible, but with edgescovered with bark. To get straight,clean edges, you must first shapethe log into a square beam called acant, then flat-saw the boards fromit. Shaping a cant wastes a bitmore wood, though most of thewaste is made up of less desirablesapwood.Once he cut deep enough toreach the heartwood, Bud threw afew levers to flip the 1og a quarterturn (Figure 2). Then he cut anadjoining face square to the first(Figure 3), and so on until the foursides of the cant were square.The cant made it easy to cutboards of consistent thicknesswith straight, parallel edges(Figure 4). In very short orderthe tree branch becameeight straight-edgedboards ilr-thickand just over9rr-wide.Bud cut away he sapwood on one log facethen rolled it b squarc fte adjoining face.Wih fte seond face cut, $e square con(called a cant) begins b bke shape,Once the cant is shapd, it's just a matter of making successivecub to prcduce lumber of any desircd thickness.W'orkbench I Tune 1998 59

The mill's thin blade wastes little wood. Water keepsthe blade running cool and prevenb pitch buildup.You can rcmoveach boad as ifs cut, or leave them inplace and slice the whole log before pulling the boads.I noticed there wasn't much sawdustpiling up on the ground. Forthis, the thin kerf of the band sawblade gets the credit (Figure 5). Iestimated that the branch yieldedtwo boards more than if I'd cut iton a thick-bladed circular saw mill.Due to the mill's horizontal bandsaw configuration, you can removeeach board as you complete thecut, or you can mill an entire logwithout removing the planks(Figure 6). Regardless of thatchoice, after completing each cutyou raise the blade above the log,then back the carriage to the log'sfront end so you can lower theblade and make another pass.By the final cut, I was amazed tosee the sparse yield we got fromthat branch. It made me appreciatehow many trees it's taken to providewood for my projects over the years.Toking the ControlsAfter off-loading the boards fromthe branch, Burl and I rolled thestraight section of trunk onto theloading arms. Then it was my turnto give this machine a try.Taking a Turn at the Sawmill's ControlsBurl had skillfully manipulatedseveral levers at once when heloaded the branch, positioning thelog easily with the turning claw,toe boards, and clamps. My effortwith the trunk was a lot less graceful(downright clumsy in fact). ButI soon had the log clamped in positionand stood back to admire howeasily this machine had moved a20rldiameter log measuring over 8ft. in length, guided by the handsof a rank amateur (see Taking aTurn at the Sawmill's Controls).My hands were already sweating,and it only got worse when Igrabbed the controls to make thefirst cul I decided to flat-saw thetrunk to get the widest boards possible.From the start, my adjustmentsof the band saw carriagewere awlsrard, and I quickly foundout that I had to learn how to walkalong with the carriage while simuLtaneously governing the saw's feedrate and moving the blade guides tokeep support close to the log(Figure 7). Burl made it sound assimple as walking and chewinggum at the same time. I prefer toAt first glance the Wood-MizerLT4O Super Hydraulic looks likea comolicated machine. lt iscomplex, but its simple controls,hydraulic log positioners, and itsstrong engine make it amazinglyeasy to run. With no more than15 minutes of coaching, I wasconfidently sawing logs into lumber.lt's a machine that demandsrespect, but earns it as well.Once you manually roll a log onb theloading arms, you can use the LT40'shydnulics b lift it onb the mill'skids.By operating these leven you can load,tum, clamp, and level a log usinghydraulic power instead of your back.A hydraulic log tumerchtes logs aslong as 2l-ft. and up to 3-ft. across.Hydraulic clamps securc the log.The contrcls move wift the saw cariageover the stationary log as you walk alongcontrclling cutting depth and speed.A lage rule above the contrclshonadepthof-cut in both inches and quarten- the thickness sbndard br hadwoods.60W'orkbench I June 1998

think that it's a lot like driving a car- there's a lot on your mind at thebeginning, but it all becomes secondnature with practice.garage, spaced with thin wood strips calledstickers to allow air to circulate. Air-dryingThe Moment of Trufh wood can take up to one year per inch ofAfter sawing the first trunk section, thickness.and building confidence at themill's controls, I furned my attentionto the section containing the If you've got a large stand ofYou Cqn Do it Toocrotch. I would finally see if it concealedthe wild figure I'd hoped for. portable mill may be atrees to convert into lumber. aAfter each cut, I shut down the good investment. Youmill to look at the newly exposed can own a Wood-Mizerwood. For the first few cuts, not LT15 mill for aroundmuch appeared. Then, on the fifth S4,500. It doesn't have allcut, I brushed offthe dust and saw the hydraulics or the cuttingcapacity of the LT-40,spectacular figure. I cut three 8/4slabs that I might use to build table but otherwise the setup istops. Two more 4/4 pieces showed similar. Going all out for thethe same pattern before the wild LT40 will set you back aboutfigure petered out.S25,000. You'llfind other Wood-Now I know why this woodbrings a premium price. In acrotch of at least 2Orr-diameter, Igot only five slabs having thiscoveted wood figure.Good Wood from WqsteWith surprising speed and littlesweat on my part, this mill hrrned afee destined for the firewood pileinto enough board feet of lumber tobuild many projects. Of course, itwill be a while before the wood isdry enough to use.I coated the ends of each plank with latex paintto prevent them from drying too quickly andsplitting. Then I stacked the lumber in myMizer models priced in between.Other nameplates you'll findon portable band saw mills includeTimberKing and Lumbermate.For the less ambitious, I recommendcalling Wood-Mizer orTimberKing to get the names ofsawyers in your area who can milllogs at your site. Rates vary byregion, tree species, and accessibility.Once you have a sawyer onhand, treat him well - you mayget to take a cut or two with yourhands on the controls. ffiYou don't have to shape a log into a cant. 0n a trunk section, Dave flattened one edge ofthe log, then flipped it over and flat-sawed the resto create wide, rcugh-edged boads.

NewTool OfferingsStanlet's Hot New Glue GunFor a long time, I didn't think muchof hot melt glue guns. My first experienceswith them convinced me thatlight-duty craft applications were allthey could ever be good for. Serioussorts of projects required glues withlonger set times and superior bondingcapabilities.The new Glue Pro glue gun fromStanley Fastening Systems (a divisionof The Stanley Works) is one reasonI've begun to change my mind. Thisis a tool with lots of potential usesaround the house and shop.The Glue Pro comes with threetypes of glue sticks (six of each type).The All Purpose, Dual Temperature,and Super Stength glues are formulatedfor different uses ranging fromsimple repairs to reattachingcountertop laminates.Stanley offers more glue stick varietiesfor use on wood, plastic, andother materials.The Glue Pro gun itself is a serioustool. Its integrated fold-down standallows you to set the gun down withoutcreating a mess of glue. Thenozzle gaard protects against burns toyou and your workpiece. Tb decreasethe risk of bigger burns (fires, that is),the Glue Pro shuts off automatically ifleft unused for more than 15 minutes.More than a safety feature, thisincreases the life span of the gun'sheater element as well.A high/low temperature switch(80 or 40 watts) gives you increasedcontrol,and optionalnozzles are available to help youdirect gluewhere you wantit to go.The Glue Pro gluegun sells for around $30.For more information orto find a retailer in yourarea, you can call TheStanley Works at(800) 343-9329.Saw Feahrres Tool-Free Blade Changes, Two Handle StylesSome people prefer using a jig sawwith a handle on top (known as a D-handlestyle), while others preferthe no-handled, barrel-style jig saws.Hitachi Power Tools (a division ofHitachi Koki U.SA, Ltd.) has introduced a jig saw with a number ofhandy features, and ifs available ina D-handlestyle (model CJ110\4and barrel-style (model CJ110VA) tosuit either preference.The saw has a 12Gvo1t, S.2-arnpmotor. Cutting speed is elecfonicallyvariable from 300 to 7200 strokesper minute. You can cut throughwood up 1o2rlrrlthickand metal asthick as 3/srr. Both are capable oforbital or vertical cutting.Simplifuing blade changes is thegoal behind the saws'blade chuck.Without any tools, you can lock andrelease blades by hand - a nice feature,especially when working awayfrom the shop.Tilting the base for bevel cuts alsorequires no tools, just a furn of a62 W'orkbench I June 1998lever below the sawbody. The base,made of cast aluminumto help keepweight down, has asteel insert forincreased durability.The saw comeswith a clear plasticguard that surroundsthe blade tostop flying splinters.You'll also find threeblades in the kit.Availableaccessoriesinclude acircle cuttingguide, straightedgeguide, a dust collectionadapter, and a plastic base to preventmarring your workpiece.As of press time, retail prices forthe saw had not been set. For moreinformation call Hitachi PowerTools at (800) 54G1666.

Bits Get a l0tfiBirthday BashBlack & Decker is commemoratingthe 10th birthday of its Bullet PilotPoint Drill Bits by offering a set of20 bits in a case for a suggestedretail price of $20. The set containsbits from l/ro'L through r/2"-diameter,including two each of the sixsmallest bit sizes.The construction of a Bullet bit issimilar to that of a brad point bit. Atthe Bullet's tip is a sharp pointdesigned to cut quickly into thematerial to keep the bit from wanderingoff its mark. The bit's mainbody has two deep flutes and cuttingedges with a steep shear anglefor an aggressive cutting action.Black & Decker claims that Bulletbits, when compared to conventionaltwist bits, drill twice as fast inwood and four times faster in metal.I didn't do timed tests, but did drillaccurate holes in wood quicklyusing these bits.The set comes in a plastic casethat has marked holes for each bitto stand in, and a clear cover. CallBlack & Decker at (800) 54+6986.-- --zThe Swiss Army Knife of SquaresTbols such as multifunction pliers, orcamping knives withmore points than a porcupine,win fans becausethey combine many featuresinto a single package. Nowthere's the Bear Square, a carpenter'stool that combines the functions of a 6rlspeed square, 12rr speed square, acombination square, and a framingsquare into one spaceage package.When I first saw this square, I wasn'tsure what to make of its odd shape,nor could I decipher all those numbers.But after a few minutes with thetool and its well-written insfuctionmanual, I easily learned its functions.A retractable tab on the l2rllongarm allows using the tool as a standardsquare or straight edge guide.The Grllong arm has two scales, onefor measurements, and another thataligns with holes spaced every l,/srr.By placing a pencil in any hole andRyobi Drills into DIY MarketRyobi is now offering four newcordless drills targeted at peoplewith occasional drillins needs and amodest budget. With suggestedprices between $49 and $100, and apower range from G to12-volts, thesedrills should give low-priced cordedmodels a run for the money.All four HP Series drills share along list of features - a reversiblemotor, keyless chuck,24position clutch, a centerT-handle design with ano-slip grip, and acarrying case.The 12- and 9.Gvoltmodels have variablespeeds (G550 rpm), andeach comes with twobattery packs and a threehourcharger. The 7.2-voltmodel has two drillinglspeeds (300/500 rpm)and a single battery,plus the charger.sliding the7 square alongtheedge of a board, youcan scribe parallelines.A few of the tool's otherfunctions include marking angles,rafter and roof pitches, bird's-mouthcutouts, and ledger board notches.Made of l,exan polycarbonate fordurability, the square sells for $28. Itspocket-size manual has charts withcommon carpenfy calculations. CallBear Square at (770)857-8399.The star of the show may be theGvolt drill. At just $49, it has the sameclutch and keyless chuck features asthe others, two speeds (300/500rpm), and a built-in battery. It comeswith a recharger and even includes a2&piece accessory kit. For anyonewanting a basic household drill, thisis hard to beat. Call Ryobi AmericaCorp. at (800) 52S2579.64 \Torkbench r June 1998

Products For )bur H-orneHouse Paints Formulated for ClimateOn any given day, the temperatures climate zones, and developed aand weather are not likely to be the Climate Guard latex paint for each one.same in Pittsburgh as they are in The five regions Dutch Boy settledPhoenix or St. Louis. That's because on are Northwest, Northeast,each city lies in a different region of Southeast. Sunbelt. and Heartland.the country, and as a result may be For example, Northwest formula hassubjecto vastly different climatic extra solids to resist moisfure andconditions. Yet exterior paints have mildew and stand up to heavy rains.essentially the same formulas regardlessof where they're sold. The same withstand sunlight exposure that canThe Sunbelt formula is meant topaint is expected to hold up to the cause paint to fade and crack.dry heat of Phoenix as well it toleratesPittsburgh's cold, rain, and snow. in flat or semi-gloss. All are tintable toClimate Guard paints are availableDutch Boy Paints saw this as a match any of Dutch Boy's colors. Orshortcoming and decided paints would you can have the paint mixes made toperform better if each was formulated match your home's existing colorto meet the needs of a particular scheme. Each of the five formulasregion. As a result, Dutch Boy scientistshave divided the countrv into five Dutch Boy at (800)retails for around $20 per gallon. Call82&5669.r-955:' ----=\-\ruloo% Acrylic l-arex HouscfairtErNr FiNTSHLawn Machine Vacuums, Blows, Mulcheslawn blower and vacuum combinationmachines can really speed up yardcleanup chores. But switchingbetween blower and vacuum functionsis sometimes complicated. Often,changing between fu nctions requiresswitching tubes between the intakeand exhaust ports and installing orremoving the vacuum bag. In theworst cases this requires using tools.No big deal, but taking extra timedefeats the whole purpose behindthese machines.Anew Elecffic Blower-Vac fromRyobi Outdoor PowerTbols makesswitching between functions a less complicatedtask. You don't have to changeany parts or disassemble the machine.All you do is throw a large lever on theRyobi's side to open or close one of themachine's two air channels - a largediameter channel for vacuuming, and asmaller one for blowing.As a blower, the Ryobi pushes astream of air through the small channelat 155 mph - enough power to pushwet leaves and matted debris.Flip the lever, and you close off theblower channel and open the largerdiameter vacuum channel. Now it cansuck leaves and debris into thecollection bag. And because thismachine mulches debris at a 10:1 ratio,it means more of what you pick upgoes in the bag before it needs to beemptied. A large zipper running the fulllength of the bag's bottom edge makesit easier to empty the contents.The Blower-Vac has a 11Gvolt,l2-amp motor. Having a cord mightmake it more cumbersome to use thana cordless model, but it ensures themotor has adequate power andunlimited run-time. Having twohandles, a shoulder strap, and weighingonly 9-1b., this machine is easyto carry.You'll find the Ryobi ElectricBlower-Vac (model RESV1300)in home centers for around$90. For more informationyou can call Ryobi'#Outdoor Products at(800) 345-8746.,66 Workbench I June 1998

Man-made Lattice Has Wood LookIte always shied away from usingplastic lattice on my projects becauseI was unimpressed with the waythese products tried to look likewood. But after battling to cut andapply finish to real wood lattice on afence I built last fall, I decided to takeanother look at plastic lattice beforetaking on another similar project. Iwas pleased to see some of the newerdesigns, such as Dimensions WeaveOn-Deck Storage ContainerThe Rubbermaid Deck Box is designed to solve a problemmost people with deck furniture face - whereto store cushions and outdoor accessories.The box is 42rr wide, 24tt deep, and 24rr high,and accommodates four thick cushions. Doublewall, molded plastic construction makes it sturdyenough to hold firewood. The Deck Box is availablein several colors and sells for around $70.Call Rubbermaid Inc. at (800)6433490.lattice by Tuff-Bilt Products (adivision of Plastics Research Corp.)imitate wood very convincingly.Dimensions Weave panels measure4 ft. x 8 ft., just like wood lattice, andcan be cut to shape. Unlike wood lattice,though, the product's one-piecemolded construction keeps it fromcoming apart while you clt. Zeromaintenance is the other bonus -the durable high-density polyethylene(HDPE) plastic neverneeds a protectivefinish like mostwood panels do.The lattice isavailable tinted to matchoutdoor woods such ascedar and redwood. and ina variety of other colors.Dimensions Weaveretails for aroundI i'E I Szo per 4ft." &ft.! 'F] sneer. uonraclTuff-Bilt at(8oo) 394-6679.rfffiwINSULATEDWINTER SUNROOM CONVERTSTO A SUMMER SCREEN ROOM!NEW... Fullop-to-bottom wall area screens!tr olvlK@ window^creen change system tr Do-il-yoursell kit,no contractors needed tr Meets building c0des f0r snow & windloadstr Unique Climate Conlr0l Systemtr N0 extras, comes completetr 8uy factory di rect & save tr America s #1 value since 1974.:,w:^:":;"fr...-:.N%"g,if :n,fllll ltrr....5 vpcprnRr Flllit l|l|l|rI|.: ::": " ':^-^- FACTORy, tNC.UUll.lUllU[@ Po Box368, Dept.woBoivlgrciN Westoort, CT 06881-0368Product lnformation Number 14'ltto have the gardenyou've always wantedwith a DP BOTOTTLLERlPOWERCOMPOSTEB!. POWER-DRIVEN WHEELS do the work whileyou simply guide it with either hand! So PERFECTLYBALANCED, it's easy for anyone to operate!. NO SIIAKING...NO STRAIN like you get withfront-tines or hand-held tillers!. TILLS seedbeds, even tough sod with ease...plus POWER COMPOSTS crop residues, leaves,weeds, cover crops, etc., directly into your soil!l;1Hp#*.#ff[i{$IfiffPlease mail this couoon todav FREEDETAILS of theULIRA SPEED PRODUCTS, INC.-$Increase drawer storage with this 18500 E. ASCHOFR 7f,GZAG OR 97049. { ROIO TILLER/FOWER COMFOSTER including prices.!beautif ul, top quality,s03-622-4387 FAX 5Qp-522-3252 ,i: sperifi cations of Manual and ELECTRIC-SLaning models. andsolid wood,i"Off-Season" Savings now in effect.dust proof, underbed dresser. Fitsiwww. morn et. com/riitraspeedunder any mattress. Shipped UPS $170 for handpiece, foot control, iir filter, video, 2wBN gORDER 48 PAGE CATALOG 634burs, lubrication, itencil sample and burlatalo!.Or send refundable $14 + $3 shipping for video3cirv _stale _ zlP _:TO: COUNTRY HOME PRODUCTS". DeDt. 3749R IProduct Information Number 172 Product Information Number 205 L__YZe:.Log{.p.or1ol3s.Eg.lry,.Ylg1e1__

I IIOne Dressed Up Step StoolThe Penguin Plafform Iadder may sport a strange name,but according to the manufacturer, Werner Ladder Co.,it's loaded with features that make it superior to previousstep stool designs. Foremost are the ladder's "feet," thelikely inspiration for thePenguin name. They stickout to the sides for extra stability,and have non-marring,slipresistant soles. The ladderalso has wide steps and alarge plafform designed forbetter stability, plus hingesthat won't pinch your fingerswhen you fold in the legs.Aluminum legs keep the ladderlightweight but strong,and a removable tool caddyholds a gallon can of paint.Two-step and three-stepmodels are available foraround $60 and $100,respectively. Call Wernerladder Co. at (847) 455-9450.Wood-Framed Mirror DoorsSliding closet doors with mirrors provide fuIl-length viewsand can complement a room by creating the illusion ofmore space. But the door foames are sometimes plain, andthey don't always mix well with existing woodwork.To answer the call, Stanley Home Decor has introduceda line of sliding mirrored doors with fancier features -real wood frames and beveled-glass mirrors.Stanley's 425 Series6u" 2t/2tt-wide frames inmahogany, cherry, knottypine, and two oak finishes.The 440 Seriesframes are 4rr-wide withcherry or mahogany finishes,and a V-groovedetail in the mirror.Prices vary from $20G3350 for the 425 series.and 3300-3500 for the440 series, depending onthe wood and door size.Call Stanley HomeDecor at (800) 345-1397.Ovvn the EntireWoodsmith Collection"for 33% offSuggested RetailThat's 3 Books for thePrice of 2!!!o 2005-175 . $39.95rHE \Moodffdtlh coLLECrroN*Eaeh Book Features:rHundreds of Full{olor Drawings: More drawings perproject than any other woodworking book..Shol>Tes0ed hojects: All with detailed instructions,materials lists, cutting diagrams, and hardware lists..JigF and Techniques: Special sections help you builduseflrljigs, and guide you step-by-step through the"trickt''spots.o"L.fFl&t" Binding: Pages open fully and lay flat onyour workbench for easy reference.ClassicCabinetsOur second book, ClassicCabinets, brings you ten ofour favorite cabinet projectsselected from over 18 years ofclassicWood"cnuith designs, Flom Modular Cabinetsto statelyArmoires, you'll find the same shoptested, stepby-steplans and instructiorsyouVe come to e4ect from the editorc atWoo dsvn ilh,. 96 pages, hardbound.u 2oo5-2oo ......$1ld6 $15.95Publish,er's 20% Discount!Desks, Tables& ChairsDesks. Tbbles and Chain, thelatest in the WoodsmithCollection'". We highlightenof our most celebrated projects - from aroll-top desk and a computer desk, to ladderbackchairs and dining tables. Every project isaccompanied by shop-tested techniques andjigs that win give you professional-lookingresults. 96 pages, ha.rdbound,tr 2oo5.3oo ......$p6 $15.95Publisher's 20% Discount!'WorkbenchI June 1998

Painter's LigfttPainting under poor lighting conditionsmakes it difficult to get complete,even coverage. But brightlights that create harsh shadows andglare make painting tougher still.To help eliminate these problems,Regent lighting Corp. introduced thePainterrs Light. It usesa halogen bulbbehind a frostedlens to producediftused lightwith less glareand softer shadows.The $30fixture has atwoposition switch(150 or 300 watts),-a- and ifs desisned toI showtrue colors. CallI-L Regentlighting.-(800) 3346871.Power Goes Out, Hght Turns OntThe last time I needed a flashlight at home was during a powertailure. Of course, the outage occurred after sunset, so justfinding the flashlight was a challenge.Someone at Black & Decker may have had\\a similar experience, leading the companyto develop its new VersaPak\\Stormlight Home Emergency Light. 7----*This rechargeable flashlight sits in a basethat doubles as a charger and can bemounted to the wall. When the electicitygoes out, the light automatically turns on, soyou can find it without fumbling in the dark.The light comes equipped with one VersaPak \battery that provides up to two hours of illuminationon a full charge. For a longer run-time, thebase can hold and charge two VersaPak batteriessimultaneously. (You have to purchase the secondbattery separately.)The Stormlight uses a bright krypton bulb andhas an adjustable bezel that allows you to broaden orsharpen the light's beam.Retail cost is around $36. To find out more, you cancall Black & Decker at (800) 54,f6986.,tss'\WaterWellwater bills, droughts or waterrationing.Since 1962,thousands of gardeners andhomeowners around theworld have discovered theHt/dta-D?ill'" secret. Theydrilled their own wells! Youcan, too. Call or write ustoday and we'll send youa big, free package ofinformation about drillingyour own well with theHydra0rill".WRELESS DRIVEWAYALARMA bell rings in your house anytimesomeone walks or drives into your place.- Free Literature -A complete line of wirelessecurity equipment.DAKOTA ALERT, INC.BOX 130, ELK POINT, SD 57025Ph: 605-356-2772Product Information Number 175CallToday for FREE Water WellDrilling Information Package1-8(D()-333-776.2(Ask for Opeator 8170)Ph.(334\7 49-5577 . Fax.(334)749-5601Ffw.oeeprocx.comrl-I-rrrrrrrrrrlil3fee$ogk illxffTru#* i- t-l YESIs-orheFREEtNFoRMATtoNPACKAGEandth€ rillustrai€d guide HOW fO DRILL YOUR OWN WA|ER WELL.IallIIL :l:Iggi:J:l r r r - - i]HlSJProduct Information Number 17770 W'orkbench I Tune 1998IIcontowd work.Abrasive Belts, Sleeves, and Rolls availablein all Grits and Sizes. Call for QuoteProduct lnformation Number 200RESTORATION SIMPLIFIED"Paint s,tripping products"Mrster boat rcstomtion (Ja Nonon-Green Lake,W)mdM$ter fuminre restomtion ( Mel glwn - wshingtorLPA) instructo$ have endomed Dm Swett's StrippitrgPmduct3 s the grstest paint stripper system the!' lBveEver trsed. It cleffi wood, all metals, fiberglN, boat (bottoms,brightwork , tcak), hardwood flmrs (on sanding, nodust, no water nu0falization). Therc is "NO" methyienechloride, caustics or acids which make it envircnmentallyfriendly to the user. You can strip your project and immediNtelyrelinisb it the same drylll DOES NOT DESTROYTHE PATINA. Distributor inouiries welcome.Star 10, Inc.l9o5 6u st ManufactureN'luslegon. Ml.ofl(ole, ?j(t--13 l9Fax(616)1214t41http://w.sunen.comDan Swett'sSripperProducts ildSystemsProduct lnformation Number 176

Two SawstFiWalk onto a residential construction site in Califormaand chances are you'll find the carpenter using aworm-drive circular saw Visit a similar site on theEast coast, and you can bet that a builder there will beusing a helical-gear, sidewinder saw. In fact, you mayeven hear the two types of saws respectively referredto as West Coast and East Coast framer's saws.While the lines of this regional preference haveblurred a little over time, this tale of two saws beganin the 1920's. Skil, which first developed the leftbladedworm-drive saw in 1924, was located inChicago. Porter-Cable, then based in New York,introduced the first sidewinder in 1929 and put theblade on the right side to avoid patent infringement.Given the difficulties of national marketing and distributionin that era, each company concentrated ondifferent markets - Skil in the growing west andPorter-Cable in the familiar east.Simple geography and market distribution gaveway to trade practice, however, especially when theGI Bill spawned the post-World War II constructionboom. As contractors put up thousands of homesin America's suburbs, they trained apprenticecarpenters with the tools they were accustomedto using. As the training cycle repeateditself in the decades that followed, this tool preferencewas passed along to succeeding generations ofbuilders. Although Porter-Cable later introduceda left-bladed sidewinder to compete more direct-I ly with worm-drives, the Mississippi River stillf exists as the Mason-Dixon line of circular saws.sllq

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