HTNVY.DUTY CIRCULAR SNWS T ITSTNII ... - Wood Tools

Cedar battens butt togethertilm the cornen. Install thenarrow battens on the side walls. the wide trim on the ends.Mark the hinge locations on the inside face of the door trimand trace around a hinge plate. Then rout a shallow mortise.Lumbero (g) 3/arrx 4ftx 8ft pressureteated pine plywoodo (2) s/strx 4ft.x 8ftACXfirorpine plywoodo (12) 1/2tt x 4 ft. x 8 ft. sidingr (3) 10ft. pressurefeated 4x4sr (3) 10ft. pressurefeated 2x4so (11) 8ft. pressureffeated 2x4so (4) 8 ft. fir 4x4 postso (6) 10 ft. fir 2x4's. (36) 8 ft. fir 2x4'so (8) 12 ft fir 2x4's. (3) 8 ft.2x8'so (2) 12 ft. fir 2x6's. (20) 8ft lx4cedar. (4) 12 ft. 1x6 cedaro (10) 8ft. lx6tongueandgroovecedar(FINISHES: 2 gals. solid colorstain for siding 1 ql solid colorstain for trim.)Door ond Trim Wrop ir UpThis shed is definitely a projectmost people want to build in stepsrather than all at once. By the timeI got the roof shingled, though, Iwas like a horse headed back to awarm stable - determined to gethome with no major delays. It wasmid-afternoon on a Saturday, and Ifigured I could cut and install thecorner trim, then build the doorbefore the weekend was over (seeAdding A Door).To keep the look balanced, thecedar battens for the shed's cornershave to be ripped to two differentwidths - unless you wantto bevel the rnating edges at a 45'angle, an unnecessary complication.On long stock like this, buttjoints are much easier.Rough-sawn 1x cedar typicallymeasures abottT/stt thick, so youjust have to deduct that from thewidth of one batten. In our case,we wanted a 3rr reveal, so the firstbatten at each corner was cut 27srlwide and nailed to the side wall,flush with the siding on the endWhat You'Il NeedHardwareo (9) concrete pads (2rrthick)r (4) T:hinges (min.4rrlong)r (2) slide bolts (min. 3rrlong)o (1) door/sate latchr (g) lbs. 6d galvanized nailsr (10) lbs. 16d galvanized nailso (6) lbs. 1%rroofing nailso (2) lengths (10 ft.) Z-flashingo (3) lengths (10 ft.) drip edger @) lengths (10 ft.) rake edger (1) roll 15# or 30# builde/s feltr (6) bundles asphalt shingleso (3) lengths (4 ft ) ridge ventr (10) 2rr-dia. soffit ventsr (3) lbs. #8" 21/ztt deck screwso (2) lbs. #8" lslarr deck screws. (1) lb. #6" lt/t't galv. screwsr (l) Andersen A41 awningwindow. (Modifu framing if usinganother size / We window.)wall. The second batten, measuring3rr wide, finishes the corner(Figure 27). Note the differentcuts on the top end of each batten.The narrow battens, installed onthe side walls, have the top endbevel-cut 30' to match the slope ofthe eave. The full-width battens,installed on the front and rearwalls, get a 30' miter cut to match.The doorway trim is almost asstraighfforward, but it has to go onafter the door is installed. We surface-mountedthe door hinges tothe shed siding, and for reasons ofboth aesthetics and security, wewanted to conceal them with thetrim. We routed two shallow mortisesin the back of each verticaldoor casing so it would nest overthe hinge plates (Figure 28).Iayout the mortises by markingthe hinge locations and tracingaround the plate. Cut the bottomends of the two long vertical casingssquare, and all the other trimends at 22r/z', then nail them inplace (Figure 29).We're always after extra featuresthat make a project better, and wehad a few in mind even before wefinished building the shed (seeShed Accessories on page 38).S&ether or not you decide toadd these custom touches to yourshed, you'll still have room foralmost any outdoor power equipment,plus an entire arsenal of gardeningtools. Storage problemsrarely get solved for good, buthere's to stemming the tide.tffi-The routed pockeb nest over the hinges.Cut the ends of each tilm pi*e al22lz"to tum the 45o cornen around the door.36\Torkbench t Tune 1998