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SCINDE;OH.

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SCINDE;OR,THE UNHAPPY VALLE1BYRICHARD F. BURTON,1.1RUT.,BOJiBAY AlillY.Author ot "Goa aDd the Blue )louutalnl." h.IN TWO VOLUMES.VOL. I.LONDON:RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,~~tt in etlJinatJ! to bet ftlajtstJI.1861.

•LONOON:IIUDIlt:R Y ."Ii KYAPl8, PRIKTIIRII.WHITllr.UArrS,•.-

DEDICATION.•TOLIEUTENANT-COLONEL WALTER SCOTT,BOIlIIAY&116111&&.8.My DEAR SCOTT,oTHE sentiment may savour <strong>of</strong> Them<strong>is</strong>tocles ratherthan Ar<strong>is</strong>tides; still 1 venture to hold <strong>that</strong> the pen in thehand <strong>of</strong> a man <strong>is</strong> <strong>that</strong> implement wherewith he may lawfullymake known h<strong>is</strong> obligations to those he loves, and, at thesame time, answer loudly as he pleases certain other claimantsto h<strong>is</strong> attention.Acting upon th<strong>is</strong> principle-or no principle, 88 you please-I have inscribed these pages to you, a veteran dweller inthe tents <strong>of</strong> Shem, a shrewd observer <strong>of</strong> all things oriental,and, what concerns my purpose infinitely more, an old andvalued friend, whose claims to my gratitude 1 shall ever feelto be <strong>of</strong> the strongest.LONDON, lie A,,!f'Ue, 1861.

•

CONTENTS.•CHAPTER I.PAGETn "SBIPPE OJ' HELLEn-i. e. Ta. GoVERNKBNT ST&UIBRTHAT TOOK US TO SonmE 1CHAPTER ILFmsT GLDlPSE OJ'THE UNHAPPY VALLEY .um TIl!: NATIVETOWN OJ' KURBACBEE • • 21CHAPTER III.CAMP KURBACBEB AND I'l'B ENVIBOn. MUGUR PEER ANDTBB CROCODILE RIDE • 37CHAPTER IV.TuB MARCH AND TBB VERY PBB'rrY PBB8IAN GIRL. . 60CHAPTER V.TIm LEGEND OJ' BILUlBORA.-Sonmu DESBRTA.-THlll FABJI:­WELL ORDER OJ' A. COIDlANDBB-IN-CBIEF AND THECAMEL EbnER 79CHAPTER VI.TA'l'TAB AND lTS HOLY HILL • . . 101

viiiCONTBNTS.CHAPTER YILTHE CAP1'UBE 0:1' TAT'J'AH IN THE OLDn TIllEPAGE• 124,SBAYKB RADJlAl!f AND TJU DEAD CAIDL •. • 135CHAPTER IX.TIm SBVBl!f HBADLBBB PBOPBET8•• 158CHAPTER X.SoolmA!r AND Ju.aUCK• • 179~XLKOTBD.-A CoIIBDY 0:1' BAOGAGB-BBA.8'1&-To I1ITBuCBEDCAJlP-HYDBBABAD • 198CHAPTER XILTIm Hnmooe OJ' SonmB-TJma RAscALITYPmLoPBOG.UllTIVDJiii8.•.&lIDTHEIR. .CHAPTER XID.TIm SonmUl!f IIAN-Hm CBARAO'l'BB AlfD WllAIf 1m DBDllm • 261CHAPTER XIV.TIm ScnmIAlf WOJUB-DPKCULLY BBB ErnBJOB • 271•

SCENES INSCINDE.CHAPTER I.THE "-'biPpt <strong>of</strong> JlteI1e"-i e. THE GOVERNlIENTSTEAMER THAT TOOK US TO SCINDE.STEP in, Mr. Bull,-after yon, sir II hope you liked Trafalgar, and Tarifa, andGibraltar, and Algiers, and Malta, and Alexandria,and <strong>that</strong> you found the realities <strong>of</strong> travel almost asentertaining as the thousand-and-one Di-, Pan-,Physi-, Poly-, and other -oramic imitations atwhich you have been perseveringly staring these lastfew years, sir.* * * *You have now quitted Suez, which a facetiousIt entertainer" very graphically described as beingthe Grand Depot <strong>for</strong> the Overland Babies-you arepacing the deck somewhat curiously and excitedlyVOL. LB

2 SCENES IN SCINDE.as the steamer tears furiously down the middle <strong>of</strong>the Red Sea.But you look in vain towards me, your guide.will not answer a single question. One <strong>of</strong> these days,Mr. Bull, when you are quite recovered from thefatigue and annoyances <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> Oriental trip, whenMrs. Bull once more allows you a few weeks leave<strong>of</strong> absence, when the boys and girls are all in rudehealth, and at work, as good children should be,and when there <strong>is</strong> no squabble, clerical, laical, onpublic grounds or on private grounds, in your happyhome,-no murders in the neighbourhood to engrossyour attention and your spare time-then, sir, maybe I shall <strong>of</strong>fer my services as courier to you down theeastern coast <strong>of</strong> the Erythrrean Sea up to Senaa inYemen, the capital <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> land <strong>of</strong> happy nsme,«* * * *The It Semiram<strong>is</strong>," or someother confounded place<strong>of</strong> pun<strong>is</strong>hment with a high-flown m<strong>is</strong>nomer, <strong>is</strong> inorders to convey from Bombay Harbour to Kurracheea freight <strong>of</strong> 600 negro souls and bodies.IGo wemust, sir,-and by her, too; go we must. At th<strong>is</strong>,time <strong>of</strong> the year, October, a coasting voyage in asailing vessel northwards, <strong>is</strong> a beautiful illustration<strong>of</strong> the Moral Impossible.• Yemen-the "happy land."

FIRST SCENE." Hollo, young man I where am I to put my box?Show me to my berth, will ye?And I say, don't<strong>for</strong>get I want <strong>that</strong> carpet-bag down in the cabin,and, 0, yes, by-the-by, the hat-box must come too,-what the deuce <strong>is</strong> the matter with you ?"os, Mr. Bull! Mr. Bull I what a sore andgrievous premier pas <strong>is</strong> th<strong>is</strong> I <strong>that</strong> gentleman whomyou m<strong>is</strong>took <strong>for</strong> a steward, <strong>is</strong> the third lieutenant,an <strong>of</strong>ficer in the Bombay MarineR, alias the IndianNavy, and an individual <strong>of</strong> infinite importance in h<strong>is</strong>own estimation, ifnot in <strong>that</strong> <strong>of</strong> others.A subalternin a steam-frigate, sir, <strong>is</strong> a regular sea-satrap-underauthority, it <strong>is</strong> true, but not a whit the less capable<strong>of</strong> passing authority on with a mode and mannerwhich render it extra-a~thoritative.Besides you·have unconsciously touched a most sensitive" raw."He and all h<strong>is</strong> cloth are rabid at the degradation <strong>of</strong>having totransport Itsoldier-<strong>of</strong>ficers," <strong>of</strong> being obligedto defile their spotless decks with " dirty passengers IIand "filthy sepoys." The least allusion to th<strong>is</strong>great grievance <strong>is</strong> sure to arouse a tornado <strong>of</strong> wrathin the blue-coated bosom. Now hearken to thethunder <strong>that</strong> bursts over your devoted head--" Go to the D , you old fool. I say, Quartermaster,pitch <strong>that</strong> fellow's traps overboard-sharp,d'ye hear?'1_B2

4 SCENES IN SCINDE•.Ending with a tirade <strong>of</strong> personal observations, not<strong>of</strong> a complimentary description.Were the said lieutenant a fellow-passenger withyou to Margate or Heme Bay, I should counsel youto invest a five pound note in revenge-not <strong>that</strong> youwould require much advice about the matter.But my dear, fat, old, testy, but very unbloodthirstypapa de famille, here-in these Eastem seas-all you can do <strong>is</strong> to swallow, with as few grimaces88 possible, the bitter bit which you took into yourmouth.It <strong>is</strong> only four days to Kurrachee.* * * *We eat and drink like ghools or schoolboys onboard the" shippe," because we pay one pound perdiem <strong>for</strong> our" keep."We have literally nothing todo with, <strong>for</strong>, or to ourselves, and to eat and drink <strong>is</strong>,all things considered, less laborious than to donothing. At six o'clock A.M. there <strong>is</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee ondeck; at nine ·we go downto breakfast; at noon weassemble to U make it·twelve" ..by the peculiarprocess <strong>of</strong>.imbibing brandy and water and crunchingsea-b<strong>is</strong>cuits. At 3 P. M. we dine with the subaltemsin the gun-room, Ibelieve theyeall theplace: we small fnr.eannct pass .the dread portals <strong>of</strong>the "state-cabin," where ute the COIDlnander sur-

EATING. 5rounded by h<strong>is</strong> field <strong>of</strong>ficer-passengers.Three hoursafterwards we again apply the spur to the jadedappetite, and take tea-a mealcons<strong>is</strong>ting- <strong>of</strong> adevilled b<strong>is</strong>cuit and pale ale j. and from <strong>that</strong> time<strong>for</strong>wards we adhibit to ourselves. as muchaliment as we can d<strong>is</strong>pose ·<strong>of</strong>.liquidBetween whiles wesmoke, generally cheroots, sometimes a hookah t<strong>of</strong>eed the comical indignation <strong>of</strong> our nautical friends.You have 'learned by th<strong>is</strong> time, I presume, whatship cookery <strong>is</strong>-how the potage <strong>is</strong> alway•. poulticelikepea-soup; how the bottles in .the cruet-standalways contain "passenger~pickles" (i. e. so hot<strong>that</strong> an ounce lasts a year); how the blu<strong>is</strong>h red orboiled-to-tatters mutton tastes eXl\Ctly as if it hadbeen cooked by the stokers in the engine-room; .howpoliteaese <strong>for</strong>bids the appearance <strong>of</strong> C( salt horse" orpork, the only goodthings on board; and finally, bowthe fat steams <strong>of</strong> the vegetables remind. you <strong>of</strong>nothing but a dirty torchon.Your mental machinery <strong>is</strong> in a state ot confusion,I see. You know not" what to observe," and would~herprefer observing nothing. just at present.Very well, we will talk over matters to-morrow.good night.* * * *We r<strong>is</strong>e early, exactly at half-past 3 A. M.,Soone

6•SCENES IN SCINDE•.'<strong>of</strong> your old favourites, the heroes <strong>of</strong> your juvenileyearl-a II Jack Tar"-growls aloud,II TumJle out there, goin' t' <strong>was</strong>h dex,"-And if you do not obey the order instanter, hedampi you and your couch with a tubful <strong>of</strong> coldwater. The best joke the honest light-heartedfollowl know <strong>is</strong> to make a land-lubber thoroughlymiaereble, no matter by what means.lUling in your day-shirt, which does duty aschemilB de n'Uit, and certain cotton drawers calledpajammaa-very useful when sleeping in publicyouchoose a seat, the bulwarks, or any otherolevation inaccessible to the swirling streams whichovorflow the quarter-deck; there you rub your redeye! with alarming violence, yawn like a littlecrocodile, stretching all your limbs at the same time,and uk and answer your friends sundry queriesconcerning the last Indian Night's Entertainment.When the dizziness <strong>of</strong> drowsiness leaves your brainyou essay a kind <strong>of</strong> ablution-not with the prigg<strong>is</strong>hprec<strong>is</strong>ion <strong>of</strong> a Bengalee, who commences to use theteeth-brush in h<strong>is</strong> verandah regularly at S A. B.­yours <strong>is</strong> a catholic, syncret<strong>is</strong>tic style <strong>of</strong> lavation,per<strong>for</strong>med, campaigning-fashion, in a tinned pan,called a gendee.You are now in a proper state<strong>of</strong> mind to look around you admiringly, to

. DAY ON BOARD THB "SHIPPE." 7enjoy the manifold charms <strong>of</strong> naturesuch aI thecool dewy breath <strong>of</strong> delightful mom, the cloudlesswelkin's azure depth, and the tiny undulations <strong>of</strong> thesapphire wave, streaked by the orient sun'. aureaterays, and-perhaps you smoke a cigar--You dress <strong>for</strong> breakfastand fin<strong>is</strong>h <strong>that</strong> mealrapidly, not rel<strong>is</strong>hing milklesa tea or tincture <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee,which on a pinch might serve <strong>for</strong> ipecacuanha.The horrors <strong>of</strong> the day then begin in real earnest.•You cannot Bit in the rattling, creaking, groaning,shivering, steaming gun-room, full <strong>of</strong> the bouquet <strong>of</strong>dinner and sour bread. On deck there <strong>is</strong> anawning, but it <strong>is</strong> about as efficacious to protect youfrom Phoebus's fury as a lady's park parasol againsta gin-palace on fire.You cannot read even if youhad <strong>book</strong>s; you cannot talk even were you inclinedto do 80.There are six hundred sepoys on board,each squatting on half-a-foot <strong>of</strong> deck, cramped, youmay suppose, as to their limbs, but by no meansfettered about <strong>that</strong> unruly member, the tongue.How they chatter, squabble, blow the conch, singhymns to the sea-god, and smear themselves withoil <strong>of</strong> cocoa-nut IYou wonder how the fellowskeep life and body together upon a quantity <strong>of</strong>parched grain barely sufficient <strong>for</strong> a barn-door cock,*• High-easte Hindu. would rather starve than cook on board ship.

8 SCUE IN SClliDE.how they can be so cheerful without the accustomedhookah, and above all things, how they can sit byday and Bleep away the night in the posture <strong>of</strong> acrow in the act <strong>of</strong>incubation.The party contains a lady too; and however sweetthe presence <strong>of</strong> the fair sex may be in its normalplace, on board ship-c-ahem Ipaying her devoted attentions jFive gentlemen arenumbers one and twowalk arm in arm with her, each speaking in h<strong>is</strong> own.wh<strong>is</strong>per; a third follows holding her parasol, anotherprecedes her with her novel, and the fifth hangsabout with her lap-dog-most <strong>of</strong> them are Ir<strong>is</strong>hmen jall are 88 fierce as fiends-it <strong>is</strong> not safe even to look<strong>that</strong> way.You cannot walk; the only tolerable part <strong>of</strong> thequarter-deck belongs, by right <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice, to theI( monarch <strong>of</strong> all he surveys"-one as absolute too,as any Robinson Crusoe or French cook in h<strong>is</strong> ownempire--our captain.So wearily enough the perspiringHours drag one foot after another as theylimp through their monotonous chaine des dame«,Do you not w<strong>is</strong>h <strong>that</strong> we could hypnotize <strong>for</strong> threedays like fakirs, or indulge in a triduan bout <strong>of</strong>hybemation, as the Esquimaux are said to do?At last it <strong>is</strong> 11 P. M.We prepare to "turn in,"if<strong>that</strong> technical phrase may be applied to depositing

ANGLO-INDIANISMS. 9our persons upon the contents <strong>of</strong> these bundlespillows,padded coverlet, sheets, and sleeping. mat,spread on some unoccupied space, wherever thequarter-deck will receive us under its awning.Now observe certain Anglo-Indian<strong>is</strong>ms.See how <strong>that</strong> young gentleman-a " fast" infant,who has been smoking all day, crushing and throwingaway every second cigar with an air, drinking atleast two gallons <strong>of</strong> ale, and yet complaining <strong>that</strong> he<strong>is</strong> " stinted in h<strong>is</strong> liquor,"-undresses himself.Stretched upon h<strong>is</strong> litter, and presenting the appearance<strong>of</strong> a spread-eagle couchant, he superintendedthe operations <strong>of</strong> unbooting, unsocking, and unpantalooning,as per<strong>for</strong>med by Baloo, a " boy" * <strong>of</strong>fifty. Mr. Ensign Snooks's temper has been rufBed;how, I cannot say, but the fact <strong>is</strong> unimpugnable,He does nothing but kick the said Baloo's shins,and indulge in curious physiological allusions to h<strong>is</strong>(Baloo's) maternal progenitor, h<strong>is</strong> wives, s<strong>is</strong>ters, andthe other ladies <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> family. Not <strong>that</strong> the "boy"cares much about <strong>that</strong> matter, he has taken the" griffin"'-line, angles <strong>for</strong> embryo commanders-inchief,fleeces them <strong>for</strong> the fewfust months after theirarl'ival in the country, convoys them to their first• In western. India the head leJ:VaIlt <strong>is</strong> a. " boy" all h<strong>is</strong> life. Philolog<strong>is</strong>tl~iffer as to the origin <strong>of</strong> the word.83

I r [ f l ,J I ~.. ~ ! .f. 0 I l r I ~ , t J ~ :.' ~ r . Ṛ~i ! rt '!, ! .J E' 'a: [ r tAr J" I' ;~ itt'I'f....... I' I ,If I - _.I lIf, i ,p . I= - l' I.1 I: &.~ a 1f r lit." eIt I. It. : .. ' t ~' fa 11 r I' ~ ~ f1.... .,!I I r .. -,.. "'.. I. I ; r I Ji;Ji1 _. Ml. !!f&.l t tt .•' " r. t 'II. ~ II," ,'I ' ItI "PIf

12 BOENES IN BOINDB.<strong>that</strong> venerable piece <strong>of</strong> furniture,-unless you w<strong>is</strong>h toha~e one <strong>of</strong> your favourite Ben Braces, or TomStarboards walking slowly over your countenancewith the thickest <strong>of</strong>ammunition boots. Inthe meantime, make all preparations <strong>for</strong> covering yourselfwith 80methiDg warm. Hereabouts, if it <strong>is</strong> J ehannamby day, it <strong>is</strong> generally Banhoot* by night.And particularly avoid sleeping in the moonlight.Yon omn<strong>is</strong>cient Engl<strong>is</strong>h gentlemen may laugh atwhat I am going to tell you, still it <strong>is</strong> Dot the lesstrue. Many an incautious negro has r<strong>is</strong>en in themorning from h<strong>is</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t slumbers in "Cynthia's coolyray," with one moiety <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> face by no means areflection <strong>of</strong> the other, and probably it took h<strong>is</strong>countenance a year or two to recover from the effects<strong>of</strong> the moonblow.Do you feel inclined to admire the unusualbrilliancy <strong>of</strong> the heavenly bodies-to speculate uponthe quantity <strong>of</strong> light which Jupiter af<strong>for</strong>ds-torecogn<strong>is</strong>e the Bears, and dimly recollect <strong>that</strong> the poetshave said something about them-to, to-in a word,to aentimeatal<strong>is</strong>e upon the sublime and beautiful ?" Not a bit I "Well, sir, I thought so. The planks are rather• The <strong>for</strong>mer the bot" the latter tbe cold .place <strong>of</strong> etel'Dal pun<strong>is</strong>hment,«loa Mobamme4.

DIU FORT. 18hard; the dew,u somewhat chilly; <strong>that</strong> young fellowdoe. snore a little, and <strong>that</strong> old gentleman tOiUoutcurse Emulphus.* * * *Our course lies N. N. W., and all the first day wewere in blue water, too farfrom the NorthemOcean and the coast <strong>of</strong> Guzerat to d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>h theirseveral beauties.Tbe wind, which at th<strong>is</strong> season <strong>of</strong>the year <strong>is</strong> certain to be dead ahead, increased sensibly;in fact a gale seemed to be in prospect.Butno one, I believe, ever passed the Gulf <strong>of</strong> Cambaywithout being in, or in the neighbourhood <strong>of</strong>, astorm.The second morning brought us in sight <strong>of</strong>the rounded headland and the little sand-hills whichmark the position <strong>of</strong> Diu Fort, the name-famous inWestern, infamous in Eastern annals,-<strong>of</strong> a placewhere Portuguese gallantry never shone morebrilliantly, and where Portuguese treachery neverappeared in blacker colours,A few hours after <strong>that</strong>the spires BDd towers, the bastions and bulwarks<strong>of</strong> the now ruinous settlement had d<strong>is</strong>appeared fromview, we shot by a shelving plain, the ancient site" Of Somnath Puttan in Kattywar,"as one <strong>of</strong> our bards geographically, but yet unmusically,sings, and the modern celebrity <strong>for</strong> having pro-

14 SCENES IN SCINDE.duced certain gates which af<strong>for</strong>ded the periodicalsand the public a great deal <strong>of</strong> innocent amusement.There you caught a glimpse <strong>of</strong> the Land <strong>of</strong> the(self-styled) Children <strong>of</strong> the Sun and Moon, a nation<strong>of</strong> noblemen, whose pedigree dates, as you mayguess from the family name, a great deal be<strong>for</strong>e theConquest, and who, withal, have little but luminousorigin, and a terrible habit <strong>of</strong> romancing to recommendthem.Like the Beloehies, the Welsh, andother semi-barbarous races, they actually supportminstrels, an order <strong>of</strong> men whose only occupation <strong>is</strong>to scatter the dust <strong>of</strong> many "crams J' over thevenerable remains <strong>of</strong> antiquity, and to put togetheras many curious and elaborate lies as they can.The scenery then becomes interestingenough.We stood within three miles <strong>of</strong> land, and every halfhour supplied us with a change <strong>of</strong> prospect.Theperpetually shifting coast <strong>was</strong> covered with towns andvillages, here glittering in the sunshine, there almostconcealed by surrounding wood, and the back-ground<strong>was</strong> a range <strong>of</strong> l<strong>of</strong>ty hills whose <strong>for</strong>ested crests, unconcealedby even the semblance <strong>of</strong> a m<strong>is</strong>t, cut injagged lines the deep blue surface <strong>of</strong> an Eastern sky.* * * *At a d<strong>is</strong>tance you might m<strong>is</strong>take <strong>that</strong> tower <strong>for</strong>the spire ot an old cathedral in good old Normandy

DWARli. 15-it <strong>is</strong> the pagoda oC Dwarka, a revered spot wheresome half million <strong>of</strong> pilgrims annuallyllock to spendtheir money, worship Kr<strong>is</strong>hna, receive the brand <strong>of</strong><strong>that</strong> demi-deity, die <strong>of</strong> an epidemic, and feed thehlUlgly sharks <strong>that</strong> haunt the bay in wait <strong>for</strong> devoteefteab.At night you remark the vast sheet <strong>of</strong> firewhich spreads like lightning over the d<strong>is</strong>tant hilla.They are covered with enormous bamboos, and thesewhen dry are ignited by the friction which the windcauses, and burn with fiery fury.It <strong>is</strong> • favouritetheme <strong>of</strong> the Hindoo m11SeB-th<strong>is</strong> Burning Jungle-..and now <strong>that</strong> you have witnessed it, even from afar,you ean well conceive how much glowing descriptionand tenebrioua terminology may be expendedupon it.The fourth morning we lose sight <strong>of</strong> land; weare striking across the Gulf <strong>of</strong> Cutch.SomethingAu been said, and still thereu something to be aid,about the Kanthi <strong>of</strong> Ptolemy, the probability vw,.the possibility <strong>of</strong> the Runn ever haTing been &IIinland sea, the voyage <strong>of</strong> Nearchus and the aoouracyor the errors <strong>of</strong> Arnan.But I have talked, heard,and written about the Kanthi and the Runn,Nearehus and Arrian, till the verybecome provocatives <strong>of</strong> qualm.* * * *names have

16 SOIINES IN SCINIlLHere we are at last.The extremity <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> longline <strong>of</strong>blue hills lying to the northward <strong>is</strong>CapeMonze,a spot which, terrible to say, also has its debatableand debated classical name.* These insulated JD888e8<strong>of</strong>stone which emerge a fewfeet from the waterare theOyster-rocks; they are to th<strong>is</strong> region what the.Needlesare to the last bit <strong>of</strong> old England <strong>that</strong> detained omlingering looks. When landingwe pass between themand the craggy promontory, with the lighthouse onits walled summit-Fort Manhora.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> thesouthern gateway <strong>of</strong> our unhappy valley, and thearchitecture and material-bleached and barren piles<strong>of</strong> limestone-have been admirably adapted by thehand <strong>of</strong> Nature to the luxuriant fields <strong>of</strong> marshymangrove and salt sand which lie within the gorge.The rock r<strong>is</strong>es about 180 feet perpendicularly above.the level <strong>of</strong> the sea; it <strong>is</strong> nearly a mile in length, andtowards the shore shelves down till it sinks into amuddy swamp, overgrown with vegetation, and overflowedby every high tide.N-Ow, Sir, you stand aeouple <strong>of</strong> miles from Kurrachee, the young Alexandria<strong>of</strong>our young Egypt,t and a few yards from the spot• Eiros t I believe,t " Young Egypt" i. a fayourite~ <strong>for</strong> the Vnhappy V:alley,originating from an <strong>of</strong>ticial proclamation, which announced the newconquest to be equal to Egypt in fertility. Certainly, many pal'ta reminGODe much <strong>of</strong> A~rou's despatch to the Calipll Umar, in which he describesthe land <strong>of</strong> the Nile U Jucceuively appearing. desert, a lake, and a flowerpen.

HOW HANHORA FOUGHT. 17where Brit<strong>is</strong>h arms first showed the vaunting Scindeeand the blustering Beloch what Brit<strong>is</strong>h arms can dowhen necessary..As Sir J. K, " after a service <strong>of</strong> <strong>for</strong>ty-five yearsin the four quarters <strong>of</strong> the globe," <strong>was</strong> marching upto take the city, which made the knight a baron, heand h<strong>is</strong> gallant soldiers were so evil entreated-atleast, 80 it <strong>is</strong> said-by the Princes <strong>of</strong> the Indus, whowould neither be on regular warlike terms with him,so as to give him an opportunity <strong>of</strong> looting* them,nor yet be sufficiently accommodating to ass<strong>is</strong>t himin looting others, <strong>that</strong> a reserve <strong>for</strong>ce <strong>was</strong> incontinentlydespatched from Bombay to be stationed inth<strong>is</strong> favoured land, and to teach its rude rulers bettermanners..Kurracbee <strong>was</strong> fixed upon as the point <strong>of</strong> d<strong>is</strong>embarkation.H. M. ship "Wellesley," 74, and the"Hannah" transport, having on board H. M. 40thregiment, together with a company<strong>of</strong>artillery, arrivedthere

18 SCENES IN SCINDE.noble barbarian sent a few Scindee spies to "humbug"the Brit<strong>is</strong>h admiral and the brigadier into thebelief <strong>that</strong> Manhora <strong>was</strong> a Gibraltar, and the Heloehiesperfect. devils to fight."And so are we," quoth those not.to.be-humbuggedpersonages.Accordingly d<strong>is</strong>positions were made <strong>for</strong> the. attack.The regiment and artillery landed, whilst the 74cleared decks and <strong>was</strong> brought near<strong>for</strong> action. Whenall <strong>was</strong> ready, the <strong>for</strong>tress <strong>was</strong> a second time summoned,with true Brit<strong>is</strong>h humanity-it <strong>was</strong> supposednot to contain a farthing in copper-whereto itreplied laconically and tant 80it peu Gallicanly, <strong>that</strong>" Forts might be stormed, but they never surrender."Under these circumstances, the "Wellesley" rejoinedtartly, with a broadside, a hailstorm <strong>of</strong> bullets,which, as might have been expected, removed half<strong>of</strong> the m<strong>is</strong>erable breastwork from its proud positionabove the watery plain into the watery plain.After a few minutes' continued cannonade, thebreach <strong>was</strong> reported practicable, and a gallant band-IIThe full <strong>of</strong> hope, m<strong>is</strong>called <strong>for</strong>lorn "-pressed <strong>for</strong>ward to claim the honour and glory <strong>of</strong>being permitted to die the hero's death."Brit<strong>is</strong>h <strong>of</strong>ficers and men," etc., etc., etc.--

HOW MANBORA. PBLL. 19Inflamed by the short and pithy harangue, theharangued moved on to the attack.Pausing <strong>for</strong> amoment to take breath at the foot <strong>of</strong> the rock, theyscanned the summit with fiery looks; then, clamberingup the steep side and tumbling over the walland each other, with charging bayonets and theIturdiest possible hearts, they dashedinto the midst <strong>of</strong> Fort Manhora.impetuousWhat could withstand sucla gallantry? Thegarr<strong>is</strong>on, an old man, a young woman, and a boy,instantly surrendered. ~o did the town <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee;so also did all the neighbouring d<strong>is</strong>tricts.The Governor-General <strong>of</strong> India "had much gratificationin pra<strong>is</strong>ing the <strong>for</strong>bearance both be<strong>for</strong>e andafter the exertion <strong>of</strong> <strong>for</strong>ce" evinced by their excellenciesthe naval and military commanders, and thebrave bands they commanded.high functionary opined <strong>that</strong> theMoreover, the same"prompt andeffectual measures taken <strong>for</strong> reducing Kurracheeappeared to have been conducted in a manner suchas to ensure success."* * * *I am telling you, Mr. Bull, the local, popular,and facetious version <strong>of</strong> the affair. Of course, there<strong>is</strong> another and a serious one. A great authority** "Narrative <strong>of</strong> the Campaign <strong>of</strong> the Army <strong>of</strong> the Indus in Sind andKaubool."

20 SCENES IN SOINDE.in such things assures us <strong>that</strong> the flying garr<strong>is</strong>onbeing captured, <strong>was</strong> found to cons<strong>is</strong>t <strong>of</strong> twentymen.Allahu Aalam - the Lord <strong>is</strong> all-knowing, asthe Moslem divines say, when compelled by circumstancesto relate an apochryphal tale - may thepenalty <strong>of</strong> fiction fall with. all due weight upon thehead <strong>of</strong> the fictor I••

FIRST GLIMPSE OF' THE UNHAPPY VALJ~Y. 21CHAPTER II.FIRST GLIMPSE 9F THE UNHAPPY VAIJI.EY, AND THBNATIVE TOWN OF KURRACHEE.e« WELL, I never ! "Of course not, sir.Noone, man, woman, orchild, ever saw the face <strong>of</strong> Young Egypt <strong>for</strong> the firsttime, without some such exclamation.U A regular desert ·I~a mere line <strong>of</strong> low coast,sandy as a Scotchman's wh<strong>is</strong>kers-c-a glaring <strong>was</strong>te,with v<strong>is</strong>ible as well as palpable heat playing over itsdirty yellow surface 1"Yes, sir-yes I When last I went home onfurlough, after a voyage round the Cape <strong>of</strong> GoodHope, the " Eliza" deposited me at Plymouth.the pilot boat <strong>was</strong> an "·old and faithful servant,"from Central Asia, accompanying -h<strong>is</strong> master to theland <strong>of</strong> the pork-eater. ,"~Allah,InAllah I" exclaimed Khudabakhsh, as hecaught sight <strong>of</strong> the town, and the.greea hills, andthe woody parks, and 'the pretty places round about

22 BCBNES IN SCINDB.the place with the breakwater; "what manner <strong>of</strong>men must you Feringb<strong>is</strong> be, <strong>that</strong>leave such abih<strong>is</strong>ht * and travel to such accursed holes as ours,without manacles and the persuasions <strong>of</strong> thechob !" tYou recollect, I dare say, Mr. Bull, reading inyour Goldsmith, a similar remark made by one <strong>of</strong>your compatriotes in the olden time?" Caractacus and Khudabakhsh be I Whereare we to land here? Where's the wharf] "o man <strong>of</strong> civil<strong>is</strong>ation, habituated as you are toquays and piers, with planks and ladders, I quiteenter into the feeling <strong>that</strong> prompts the query.long billowy sea, tipped with white, <strong>is</strong> sweepingdirectly into the jiarrow rock-girt jaw <strong>of</strong> the so-calledharbour; we roll to such an extent <strong>that</strong> if you likethe diversion you may run from one side <strong>of</strong> thequarter.deck to the other, each time dipping yourfingers in the pure element; and to confuse mattersstill more, we have six hundred sepoys to land.There <strong>is</strong> a bar across the creek; so the "Semi.ram<strong>is</strong>" must lie at anchor outside till the pilot boatsput <strong>of</strong>f to fetch us.Here they come, anything but agreeable to lookat, but capable <strong>of</strong> going strangely well, half.throughA• Parad<strong>is</strong>e.t Tho 'butinado.

INDIAN" MAN OVERBOARD." 28half-over, the foaming waves.the chattering <strong>of</strong> the owners tells us.•The sepoys d<strong>is</strong>embark first.They are along-side,There goes one <strong>of</strong>them into the sea, musket, knapsack, brass pipkin.and all. If he were an Engl<strong>is</strong>hman how he woulddrop "Brown Bess," and kick, and plunge, androar, and cry, "Save me!"But he <strong>is</strong> a Hindu.So, firmly grasping h<strong>is</strong> weapon as if he were aboutto find it essentially useful in the depths <strong>of</strong> theocean, he sinks-permanently.At the sight and sound <strong>of</strong> the fatal plunge you,good honestman, long accustomed, in concert withMrs,. Bull, Master Billy, and all the junior Bnlls, tovent your feelings audibly, when a little girl tumblesin an "act <strong>of</strong> equestrian<strong>is</strong>m" against the wellpaddedbarrier at Astley's, cannot help <strong>for</strong> the life<strong>of</strong> you, shouting "man overboard!" rushing aboutthe deck, and other signs <strong>of</strong> excited benevolence.Curiously enough, the surroundinglost man's comrades and friendsblacks-theeye your outland<strong>is</strong>hproceeding. They peep a little at the water,convene a great deal, and when their <strong>of</strong>ficers askthem. what has occurred, respond brightly-"Ramjee N aick drowned! "They would be rather d<strong>is</strong>appointed, I reallybelieve, were <strong>that</strong> Ramjee to reappear.Besides he

<strong>was</strong> a low-caste man; eYen he himaelf' would havehesitated to rank himself in the scale <strong>of</strong> creationwith the c. 0/5 ~ch-goat.But the fat old Moslem ayah, the majOr'1 ladysblack Abigail, does not seem at allanxious tosharethepoor pariah's fate.See how she sticks to the ladder,clings to the rope, and fearfully scans the insolentwaves <strong>that</strong> now bedew her extensive d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong> leg,•now sink into a yawning abyss, deep in the centre <strong>of</strong>which lies the little boat where she <strong>is</strong> required todeposit herself.You also, when you reflect <strong>that</strong> youhave shins, and you remember how much harderthan flesh wood <strong>is</strong>, do feel <strong>that</strong> the descent in th<strong>is</strong>case <strong>is</strong> by no means a facile one.The Ayah starts and stares, stretches <strong>for</strong>ward andIhrinks backward, -restretches "and reshrinks, shrieksa little, swears <strong>for</strong> the "benefit <strong>of</strong> the boatmen, andshouts (C are bap"* <strong>for</strong>' her own.Presently someone, in pure pity <strong>of</strong> her case, pushes her headlongfrom behind into the canoe 88 it r<strong>is</strong>es quivering uponthe crest <strong>of</strong> a mountain billow.Fear Dot, sir, there<strong>is</strong> no danger <strong>of</strong> her being hmt,-she assumes ahedgehog's shape with infinite ease: teres algaerotunda, she tumbles upon a pile <strong>of</strong> boxes and bags,extellda her arms, fixes herself firmly by means <strong>of</strong>

" PORT" OF KURRACHEE. 25her claws, pulls the veil over her modest headonce more, and once more commences the usualseries <strong>of</strong> assertions concerningthe legitimacy <strong>of</strong>the boatmen, and the general conduct <strong>of</strong> theirfemale relations.Now, sir, it <strong>is</strong> your time.Shake hands with yourfellow-passengers and "hope to have the pleasure <strong>of</strong>seeing them again soon," so shall they pronounceyou to be a"devil<strong>is</strong>h good fellow," in spite <strong>of</strong> yourblack coat.Fin<strong>is</strong>h your ale, and prepare to quitthe." Shippe <strong>of</strong> Helle" with all expedition.We have been delayed a little.One <strong>of</strong> the pilotboats, becoming tired <strong>of</strong> her occupation, made adeliberate attempt to escape.The marine on guard,however, sent a bullet through the sail, so very closeto the sailors' heads, <strong>that</strong> the design <strong>was</strong> abruptlyfutil<strong>is</strong>ed.Seated partly in the cranky canoe, partlyin the drifting spray, we fly along, as if teaming oldNeptune's drag over the watery hills and dales, glidebeneath Manhora Fort, and, crossing the bar,acknowledge with a heartfelt "Thank goodness!"the mercy <strong>of</strong> finding ourselves in smooth waterat last.* * * *The Cf Port" <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee, you see, has no pretensionswhatever to be called a port.VOL. LThe road-o

26 8CE~""ES IN SCINDI.stead <strong>is</strong> dangerously exposed, and the creek whicliruns up to the town <strong>is</strong> too shallow to admit anythingbut flat-bottomed steamers and small native craft.As, however, the whole <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> coast <strong>is</strong> deficient inharbours, and th<strong>is</strong>, though bad, <strong>is</strong> probably the beatit af<strong>for</strong>ds, it <strong>is</strong> much frequented.Some years ago it<strong>was</strong> considered a place <strong>of</strong> extreme importance, and .a numher <strong>of</strong> enthusiastic Anglo-Scindians detectedin its position and capabilities a natural value which,improved by art, would ceJtainly at some time orother ra<strong>is</strong>e Knrrachee high above Calcutta in thescale <strong>of</strong> Indian cities.The expenditure <strong>of</strong> publicmoney <strong>was</strong> more than liberal, a little army W88collected here, and as the niggard country providesscarcely sufficient grain to support its scanty popu-•lation, the import trade became br<strong>is</strong>k and regular,and even the export improved.Kurrachee, thusshoved <strong>for</strong>ward, took the first step eM Qf7tmtoutstripping and almost depopulating the maritimetowns around.byIt <strong>was</strong> then resolved <strong>that</strong> she shouldhave all advantages to aid her rapid progress.Accordingly a stone pier W88 designed to ron fromthe town half way down the creek.The work <strong>was</strong>undertaken, and would have prospered too had itnot un<strong>for</strong>tunately sunk nearly as fast as it could bebuilt.Estimates were called <strong>for</strong> to show what

KURRACHBB PEARLS. 27expense would attend blowing up the bar, andextensive field-works and <strong>for</strong>tifications, intended tobe a depot <strong>for</strong> the material <strong>of</strong> war against CentralAsia generally, were ordered to r<strong>is</strong>e from the barrenplain.However r Kurrachee <strong>is</strong> Kurrachee, and Calcutta<strong>is</strong> Calcutta still.* * * *As we pass on, you observe the piles <strong>of</strong> oystershells<strong>that</strong> line the shore: those, sir, are theproduce <strong>of</strong> our celebrated f<strong>is</strong>hery; they are eonsiderablylarger than your natives and their contentsare not quite so delicately flavoured: but they alsoaf<strong>for</strong>d a very barbaric pearl <strong>of</strong> dingy hue, somewhatlarger than a pin's head. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> source <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>it, such asit <strong>was</strong>, has now been dried up, not by the "ignoranceand folly <strong>of</strong> the Ameers," but by the stolidity <strong>of</strong> eertainlocal <strong>of</strong>ficials, successors to <strong>that</strong> well-abuseddynasty-and by the rapacity <strong>of</strong> certain black8ubjects, who contracted <strong>for</strong> the f<strong>is</strong>heries and mereilesslyf<strong>is</strong>hed up every shell they could find.Thereare the carcases <strong>of</strong> some large vessels stranded uponthe mud-ltanks about the creek, and moored in itscentre you see twenty or thirty Grabs from Muscat,Buglahs from the Persian Gulf, Cottias from Cutch,&D.d Pattimars and Botillas from Bombay.02

28 8CBNEB IN 8CINDE.The tide <strong>is</strong> out and we may thank the bit <strong>of</strong> pier<strong>that</strong> we have not to sit away some tedious hoon inth<strong>is</strong> uncom<strong>for</strong>table unaromatic conveyance, to bestridethe damp backs <strong>of</strong> brawny Scindians, or towalk with legs au fUdurel, and nethergarments"uponour shoulders, through nearly a mile <strong>of</strong> mud andwater, averaging two feet deep, with plenty <strong>of</strong> sharpshells at the bottom, and aquatic roots whichadmirably per<strong>for</strong>m the <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>of</strong> mantraps.Now, Mr. Bull, our pilot bas cast anchor-a large"round fiat stone, about three feet in diameter, withtwo holes init, one <strong>for</strong> the cable, the other <strong>for</strong> a longsharp stick, the fluke.We will land if you please.It <strong>is</strong> 6 p. m.; the fine time <strong>for</strong> a walk, the horsescan follow us, and the luggage <strong>is</strong> sure to find itsway up to the bungalow.So while it <strong>is</strong> en route wewill stroll through the native town, and afterwardsalong the military road to the cantonment.* * * *Kurrachee, you must know, has been identifiedby some paleeogeographers, with the Krokali <strong>of</strong> theGreeks: on the grounds, I believe, <strong>that</strong> it stands in aprovince called Kakraleh.There <strong>is</strong> only one objection to the theory, which<strong>is</strong>, <strong>that</strong> Kurrachee <strong>was</strong> built about one hundred andfifty years- ago.The town <strong>is</strong> a mass <strong>of</strong> low mud

FRESH IMPRESSIONS. 29hovels, and tall mud houses with fiat mud ro<strong>of</strong>s,windowless mud walls, and numerous mud ventilators,surrounded by a tumble-down parapet <strong>of</strong>mud, builtupon a low plat<strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> mud-covered rock.* <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong>the citadel: it fines <strong>of</strong>f into straggling suburbs below,extending far northwards, and terminating at thehead <strong>of</strong> the creek.On approaching Kurrachee, three <strong>of</strong> the senseareceive "fresh impressions,"-three organa areaffected, far more powerfully, however, than pleasantly,viz., the ear, the nose, and the eye••The perpetual tomtoming and squeaking <strong>of</strong> nativemusic, mingled with the roaring, bawling voices <strong>of</strong>the inhabitants, the barkings and bayings <strong>of</strong> thestranger-hating curs, and the streams <strong>of</strong> the hungrygulls, who are fighting over, scraps <strong>of</strong> defunct f<strong>is</strong>hes,<strong>for</strong>m a combination which strikes the tympanum asdecidedly novel.The dark narrow alleys throughwhich nothing bulkier than a jackass can pass withease, boast no common sewer: drainage, ifyou can80 call it, <strong>is</strong> maaagedby evaporation, every inhabitantthrows away in front <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> dwelling what he doesnot want within, whilst the birds and dogs are the* The clay hereabouts used as plaster <strong>is</strong> thrown into a pit, worked upto the proper cons<strong>is</strong>tency with water, mixed with finely chopped straw, andtrodden under foot till ready <strong>for</strong> use. The straw acts u hair in Engl<strong>is</strong>hmortar; without it the bricks would crumble to bitt in no time.

S8SCBKE8 IN 8CIlIDB.only scavengers. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>, the permanent fetor, <strong>is</strong> hereand there int2e88ed by the aroma <strong>of</strong> carrion in BUCha state <strong>that</strong> even the kites proDounce it rather toohigh to be pleasant, and YUied when we approachthe ditrerent °ba'88J'8 by a close, faint, dead smell mdrugs and spices, such as one might suppose to pro.ceed from a newly made mummy. You are familiarwith Boulogne, Cologne, and Rome: th<strong>is</strong> you atoncefeel <strong>is</strong> a novelty. The people are quite a dift'erentrace from what you have hitherto seen. The chaneter<strong>is</strong>tic<strong>of</strong> their appearance <strong>is</strong> the.pecoIiar blending<strong>of</strong> the pure Iranian <strong>for</strong>m and tint with thoee <strong>of</strong> theIndian branch <strong>of</strong>the samefamily. Their features 81'eregular; their hair, unlike the lank locks <strong>of</strong>the greatPeninsula, though coarse <strong>is</strong> magnificent in quantityand colour j the beard <strong>is</strong> thick, glossy, and ClU'liDg;and the figure <strong>is</strong> manly and well developed. Them888 <strong>of</strong> the population <strong>is</strong> composed <strong>of</strong> Mohan. orf<strong>is</strong>hermen. The males are scattered about, m~dingand cleaning their rude neta: the ladies are waahiDgf<strong>is</strong>h in foul puddles, or are carrying the unsaTOuryburdens homewards on their bare heads. There <strong>is</strong>every convenience <strong>for</strong> studying their figures; thedress <strong>of</strong> the ruder sex, cons<strong>is</strong>ting <strong>of</strong> only the Scindehat and a pail' <strong>of</strong> indigo coloured drawers extendingfrom the wa<strong>is</strong>t to the knee. The women are habited

PRAYER HOUR. 31.ina kind <strong>of</strong> embroidered boddiee, called a "gaj," andlong, coloured cotton pantaloons tightened round theanele. They seldom wear veils inthe streets, modestynot being one <strong>of</strong> their predilections j nor are they atall particular about volunteering opinions concerningyour individual appearance, which freedom in theEast, you know, <strong>is</strong> strange. The Moslems are d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hedby their long beards, slipperless feet, andsuperior nakedness: Hindoos, by fairness or ratheryellowness <strong>of</strong> complexion, a strangely shaped turban,• cloth fastened round the wa<strong>is</strong>t, a dab <strong>of</strong> vermilionbetween the eyebrows, and a thread hung over theleft shoulder, and knotted against the right side.The descendants <strong>of</strong> African slaves abound: we meetthem everywhere with huge water-skins on theirbacks, or carrying burdens fit <strong>for</strong> buffaloes.All the people aee preparing <strong>for</strong> prayers. TheHindOO8 are accurately <strong>was</strong>hing their mouths, toothby tooth, on the steps opposite their shops, or arepurifying their sable locks and ochre skins with themixture <strong>of</strong> argillaceous earth* and mustard oil whichhereabouts <strong>is</strong> used <strong>for</strong> soap. The Moslems havespread their carpets, and are standing reverentially in• It <strong>is</strong> called Met, and <strong>is</strong> quarried near Hyderabad and other plseee.The Persian na.me <strong>is</strong> Gil-i-8ar-Shui-" the head-wuhing clay." Whenmixed up with rose leaves, instead <strong>of</strong> rancid oil, it makes anything, but a.bad <strong>was</strong>h-balL

~ [ Ii i f t If I ~ ,I i fit I' f. 5 i r : ~ A! f =t " f I i I EI JI l' ~ ) 'a .., III w,i.r I 'i r r I ~,5-: f IS' 's' => l:=:f ,J' 5 ~ 's: 5. w,IIf, 'II't~ ,~ .. e .. If,iI I ~ IS.J a fc~ .....'..... _ ;I -" B !. ~ fill .~ S. ~ e ~I, t rs .. ,.... .... !l. .. - '9 I e: Cl· : t ~ [ ", B,t'f!.'i'f it~IJ!IJf.1 frr · f

33-twtdlt tt.t 1Wd dcnna it, ia aKtu-. aud wiDteI'it <strong>is</strong> alwaJ1l dry. Here aDd there, yoa obRne,I ;0 1 • pool in whicIl tile little bIacb ue d<strong>is</strong>port­~ tJu.a.... like dabchirb in their quasi-natiweh.-I. die~ stand crowds <strong>of</strong> dames, fair aud....>4 h other pJ.De. pita have berm sunk, aDdtt.rk, YUIIIIg and old, <strong>of</strong> high aDd low depee, eadawidt. ...artbea waterpot OIl her held aDd most <strong>of</strong>...witIa iDf.uata daat ~ to their puents' sideslike t.by bahoom. 'fht2oe <strong>is</strong> aD immensity <strong>of</strong> CODflbaJwtion~ OD, and if tJ.e load frequent laughs.... "1 thiDg beside ftCU'ICY <strong>of</strong> mind, there <strong>is</strong>...eajo)liIJI(at dariDg the water dra~.In tlleRnt, JOIl bow, the .-ell <strong>is</strong> the place <strong>of</strong> riaiGa,aud <strong>of</strong> e••~-.ziow, the ~~ scandal-point," and thejRuap-moua <strong>of</strong> eada little coU!rie.The Wies therepKepUe 1hEirminds <strong>for</strong> the Jaboan <strong>of</strong> the evelling,..._ ~ their husbaDds' aDd childrts'. din-'ID'a, JDeIIIliD« their ~ pIqIUUag their beds,aDd adler •••WJdic avocations multifarious.~frwn tJ.e DYer hank, towwds the cantonwu.t,we ,.. MJJDe attempts..-gardens, aDd thinplan'''••• <strong>of</strong> e6e0a-nut tzeca, S1IlT01IIlded by dW"UfaDd bmken.an. <strong>of</strong> puddle.Bemu-k th<strong>is</strong> maD, ataD Baa".* wIIoR ~ legs depend froID <strong>that</strong>• ~.- m .........-....ita 41i¥ac:e .....-& _... h s.". it.

84 SCENES IN SCINDE"dirninutivedonkey's saddleless crupper,-<strong>is</strong>he notlikean ourang-outang bestriding a Newfoundland dog?That l<strong>of</strong>ty clump on the other side <strong>of</strong> the road concealsa dry tank, and shelters some houses inhabitedby holy characters. It <strong>is</strong> called the Ram Bagb, orGarden <strong>of</strong> Rama (Chandra),* as here, on th<strong>is</strong> veryspot, the mighty hero and demigod <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> namepassed a night some few million years ago, when heand h<strong>is</strong> pretty wife Sita were, like ourselves, Mr. Bull,taking a trip through the Unhappy Valley <strong>of</strong> theIndus. Now we have nothing to do but to followth<strong>is</strong> exceedingly dusty and d<strong>is</strong>agreeable highwayabout half a mile, when we shall reach our destinationand dinner.How lovely are these oriental nights I-how especiallylovely, contrasted with the most unlovelyoriental day. The plain around us <strong>is</strong> nothing butan expanse <strong>of</strong> sand, broken into r<strong>is</strong>es and falls bythe furious winds, and scarcely af<strong>for</strong>ding thorns,salsolee, and fire-plants,t sufficient to feed 8 dozengoats and camels. Yet, somehow or other, the hourhowever, the intolerance <strong>of</strong> the ltlo81em rulers compelled them to adoptthe lowly monture, and now, from <strong>for</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> habit, they would be unwillingto exchange it <strong>for</strong> another.• So called to d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>h him from Paraau Rama, another heroicincarnation.t The common name <strong>for</strong> the different Yarietiea <strong>of</strong> Euphorbia.

DKSIDBRATA AT KUBBACHEE. 35communicates a portion <strong>of</strong> ita charms even to th<strong>is</strong>peospeet,The heavy dew floats up from the sunparchedearth in almost transparent m<strong>is</strong>ts, <strong>that</strong> atonce mellow, graduate, and diversify a landscapewhich the painful transparency <strong>of</strong> the atmosphereduring daytime lays out all in one plane like aChinese picture. The upper heights <strong>of</strong> the dome aboveus are <strong>of</strong> the deepest, purest, and most pellucid blue,melting away around its walls into the lightest azure ;the moon sheds streams <strong>of</strong> liquid silver upon thenether world; there <strong>is</strong> harmony in the night gale,and an absence <strong>of</strong> every harsher sound <strong>that</strong> couldd<strong>is</strong>turb the spell which the majestic repose <strong>of</strong> Naturecasts upon our spirits.* * * *Be<strong>for</strong>e we enter our bungalow, and "shut up" <strong>for</strong>the night, I must remark concerning what we havejust seen, <strong>that</strong> Knrrachee, (the native town,) wantsmany an improvement, which perhaps old Time, thegreat Progression<strong>is</strong>t, has in store <strong>for</strong> it.To himwe look <strong>for</strong> the clearing <strong>of</strong> the harbour, the drainage<strong>of</strong> the dirty backwater, and the proper management<strong>of</strong> the tidal incursions.He may please toremovethe mountains <strong>of</strong> old rubb<strong>is</strong>h which surround andare scattered through the native town; eventually hemay clear away the crumbling hovels which received

86 SCENBS IN SCINDE.UB, at the bead <strong>of</strong> the Custom House Bonder, andoccupy the space with an erection somewhat moredignified.Possibly he will be induced to see thepier properly fin<strong>is</strong>hed, to macadam<strong>is</strong>e the road <strong>that</strong>leads to camp, to superintend the growth <strong>of</strong> a shadyavenue or two, and to d<strong>is</strong>perse about the envirpns afew large trees which may break the <strong>for</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> thefiercelea wind, attract a little rain, and create such athing as shade. We trust implicitly in Time. Withalwe w<strong>is</strong>h <strong>that</strong> those who have the power <strong>of</strong> seizinghim bythe <strong>for</strong>elock would show a little more <strong>of</strong> thewill to do 80.The old gentleman wears a fashionablewig, curly enough in front, but close behind asa pointer's back; and we, h<strong>is</strong> playthings, are alwaysmaking darts at the wrong side.

KU&BACHEE.37CHAPTER III.CAHP KURRACHEE AND ITS ENVIRONS. WOUR PEERAND THE CROCODILE RIDE.YOUR first night in Seinde, Mr. Bull-how didyou like it?I had your couch placed in theverandah~creened,however, from the sea-breeze,which <strong>is</strong> said to be dangerous-because you nevercould have endured the 100° heat <strong>of</strong> an inner room,and I now come to awake you at four A.. II., andtake yousun appears.to constitutional<strong>is</strong>e a little be<strong>for</strong>e theThe great secret <strong>of</strong> health in th<strong>is</strong> part<strong>of</strong> the East lies, I believe, in the daily habit <strong>of</strong> along walk, not a lazy canter, in the cool <strong>of</strong> the.mornmg.We can now, ifyou please, perambulate the camp,and devote the evening and the morrow to a fewexcursions in the neighbourhood.* * * *Kurrachee <strong>is</strong> the head-quarters <strong>of</strong> the local govern-

88 SCENES IN SCINDE.ment, and the great station <strong>for</strong> European regiments.*The cantonment stands on a slope, which r<strong>is</strong>estowards the east into a little chain <strong>of</strong> rocky bills.The foundation <strong>is</strong> a hard, dry crust <strong>of</strong> sand, grave),and silt, thinly spread over beds <strong>of</strong> stone andpebbles. As in all camps, there <strong>is</strong> a huge- dirtybazaar, full <strong>of</strong> shopkeepers and servants, soldiers andaepoys, ladies <strong>of</strong> no virtue to speak <strong>of</strong>, nakedchildren and yelping curs-a scene strictly in theEastern low life style. There are large, roomybarracks, oblong, single-storied buildings, dressedwith mathematical prec<strong>is</strong>ion to the front, andflanked by equally prec<strong>is</strong>e roads, two dozen differentguards scattered in all directions, immense comm<strong>is</strong>sariatstores, a Protestant church, with verylittle outward show, a Roman Catholic chapel,built palpably <strong>for</strong> effect, two or three burialgrounds,a species <strong>of</strong> bam intended <strong>for</strong> the accommodation<strong>of</strong> the Drama, many mess-houses, aniceless receptacle <strong>for</strong> Wenham Lake ice, a librarywithout <strong>book</strong>s, a school-room in which Indo­Brit<strong>is</strong>h children receive the elements <strong>of</strong> education"and sundry private buildings where public dutiesare per<strong>for</strong>med. The streets, or rather roads,• There are generally about 5000 men <strong>of</strong> all arms, Europeaa aodNative, at Kurncbee.

OAMP KURRACBD. 89~ level, dusty thoroughfares, averaging fifty yardsin breadth, and the houses are separated by tallmilk bush hedges, enclosing "compounds," * 80called, I presume, because the thing ia a mixture <strong>of</strong>the garden and the court-yard.Each domicile speaks plainly enough <strong>for</strong> itatenant,Here the huge white stuccoed pile, with tallarches and bright chikst between, towering above ascreen <strong>of</strong> Euphorbia, which takes the labour <strong>of</strong> adozen men to water it, denotes the Comm<strong>is</strong>sariat orthe Staff Officer.There the small, neat building,with carefully curtained windows, a carriage underthe shed <strong>that</strong> adjoins it, comparatively clean outhouses,and an apology <strong>for</strong> a garden kept up in theface <strong>of</strong> many difficulties, points out the marriedcaptain, or field-<strong>of</strong>ficer.A little beyond it, anotherbungalow, jealously trell<strong>is</strong>ed round with bamboowork,a gaudy palanquin lying near the dirty huts, andtwo or three jaunty, debauched looking "darkies,"dressed in theheight <strong>of</strong> black dandy<strong>is</strong>m, showmanifest traces <strong>of</strong> the " Booboo." t Beyond it youremark a long, low range <strong>of</strong> stained and dilapidatedbuilding, under whose narrow verandah, with the• Philolog<strong>is</strong>ts deriTe ilie word from the Portugueee.t A kind <strong>of</strong> fine mat.: Beebee, a lady, <strong>is</strong> corrupted by the nativel <strong>of</strong> W88tem India, to Booboo,almost invariably when they apeak <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> their own ladies.

40 SCENES IN 8CINDE.rough wooden posts, still sleep three or four younggentlemen, in spite <strong>of</strong> the gl<strong>is</strong>tering <strong>of</strong> morning, theyelping <strong>of</strong> a dozen terriers, and the squabbling <strong>of</strong> 81many Pariah servants, each exhorting h<strong>is</strong> neighbourto do hil work: <strong>that</strong> <strong>is</strong> a Castle <strong>of</strong> Indolence in whichseveral subaltems inone <strong>of</strong> her Majesty's corps chumtogether, <strong>for</strong> the greater facility <strong>of</strong> spending days.Again, you observe a mean-looking bungalow, withappended kennels and stables, <strong>that</strong> are by far thebest part <strong>of</strong> the house: the fine head <strong>of</strong> an Arabpeeping out <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> loose box <strong>is</strong> the only sign <strong>of</strong> lifeabout the place-<strong>that</strong> <strong>is</strong> a Duck "Subaltern Hall."Both these establ<strong>is</strong>hments are apparently in a state,<strong>of</strong> admirable d<strong>is</strong>order: the fences are broken downby being leapt over, the garden destroyed by beinggalloped over, the walls pitted with the pellet-bow,*and near each a goodly heap <strong>of</strong> dirty "Marines,"who have travelled from the generous vineyards <strong>of</strong>"the South" to do their duty on the parched plains<strong>of</strong> Scinde, <strong>is</strong> piled close by shatteredsix.dozenchests, old tom fly-tents, legless chairs, and otherpieces <strong>of</strong> furniture which have suffered in the warswithin.The few pretentious erections, built in noearthly' style <strong>of</strong> architecture, which puzzle you as totheir intentions, are the "follies" <strong>of</strong> Anglo-Indian• A bow wbich .boota clay pellett instead <strong>of</strong> UTOWI.

BUNGALOWS. 41'clerks and' writers, a race <strong>of</strong> men which hugelydelights in converting rupees to unlovely masses <strong>of</strong>brick and mortar. At first glance, your eye detectsthe humble dwellings <strong>of</strong> the primitive colon<strong>is</strong>ts,sheds <strong>of</strong> "wattle and dab," in the <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> a singlepiled tent, <strong>for</strong> the most part now degraded intostables or servants' <strong>of</strong>fices. They <strong>for</strong>m remarkablecontrasts with the double-storied houses, the thicklystuccoed ro<strong>of</strong>s, made to be promenaded upon, andthe extensive ranges <strong>of</strong> rooms, which have sprung upduring the last ten years, when men could calculateupon being stationary <strong>for</strong> a while in the "station"<strong>of</strong> Kurrachee. Except in a few instances, all thetenements are bungalows, parallelograms <strong>of</strong> unlovelyregularity, with walls <strong>of</strong> sun-dried brick, doublywhite-<strong>was</strong>hed to promote cleanliness. and glare,sometimes flat above, more <strong>of</strong>ten sloping with redand blue tiles, with eaves pulled out, and preventedfrom falling by clumsy columns <strong>of</strong> brick. Each hasits dependent line <strong>of</strong> dirty, dingy "cook.houses,"dens <strong>for</strong> the servants, and other conveniencies thrownfar enough <strong>of</strong>f to temper the pungency <strong>of</strong> thescreamings and the steams <strong>that</strong> escape through thedoorless doorways.Crossing the camp in a northward directiontowards the Government Gardens, we pass through,

42 SCENES IN 8CINDB.you observe,the heart <strong>of</strong> the settlement. Every thingat th<strong>is</strong> hour looks and sounds intensely military~Yonder, on the regimental parade-ground, a plump<strong>of</strong> glittering bayonets <strong>is</strong> wheeling and turning aboutin close column; a little way in front <strong>of</strong> us a troop<strong>of</strong> horse artillery winds slowly along the roadtowards the Champ de Mars; in the square on ourright are some hundred " Johnny Raws" under theAdjutant's watchful eye, in every grade <strong>of</strong> recruit<strong>is</strong>m,from the rigid m<strong>is</strong>eries <strong>of</strong> the goose-step" to the lasttouch <strong>of</strong> the sword exerc<strong>is</strong>e; and on the left anative corps, with band playing and colours flying,returns from drill to their lines and breakfasts.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>, Mr. Bull, <strong>is</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the Sepoy regiments,about which you have heard so much <strong>of</strong> late. Youare right; there <strong>is</strong> something uncommonly grotesquein their general appearance-a total want <strong>of</strong> " fitness<strong>of</strong> things" in an Ultra-European dress, upon anUltra-Asiatic person. The men's shoulders arerather narrow, their bodies are short<strong>is</strong>h, their wa<strong>is</strong>tsare <strong>was</strong>p<strong>is</strong>h, and their thin legs appear to grow out<strong>of</strong> their chests. Still they are stout hearts, andtrue, these fellows; they have fought <strong>for</strong> your cottonand pepper many a year, and you may still rely upontheir faith and loyalty. Ere long, I dare say, youwill hear <strong>of</strong> a torrent <strong>of</strong> them pouring westward

SEPOY REGIMINTS. 43through Egypt, and I venture to assert <strong>that</strong> theywill rather aston<strong>is</strong>h the natives <strong>of</strong> Southern Europe.One company <strong>of</strong> them as they are ia worth half Bbattalion <strong>of</strong> Italians or Greeks, and when they havea few more Brit<strong>is</strong>h <strong>of</strong>ficers to lead them on, you maysafely trust them to act against any army whatever.All around us there <strong>is</strong> a regular "Dutch concert"<strong>of</strong> martial music. Bugles are soundinglight infantrycalls-bands are per<strong>for</strong>ming whilst their regimentsparadei-there <strong>is</strong> a rattling treble <strong>of</strong> musketry,8 booming bass <strong>of</strong> cannon, and a pract<strong>is</strong>ing <strong>of</strong> thedrum, beat in the very soprano key which combinesto <strong>for</strong>m a perfect" Devil's Tattoo."<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> position, in the outskirts <strong>of</strong> the camp, <strong>was</strong>chosen <strong>for</strong> the Government Gardens as it <strong>is</strong> the onlyplace <strong>that</strong> af<strong>for</strong>ds a sufficient quantity <strong>of</strong> sweet water.The acre or two <strong>of</strong> ground thus grandiloquentlydesignated, contains a multitude <strong>of</strong> wells, shadyalleys <strong>for</strong> promenades, a chunamed* :floor <strong>for</strong> dancingau clair de la lune, a square where the bands play tothe ladies in the evening, a few:flower-plots and avast number <strong>of</strong> onion, lettuce and cabbage-beds.One walk through will suffice.And now to breakfast.* * * *The sun <strong>is</strong> sinking slowly towards h<strong>is</strong> purple• Made <strong>of</strong> chunam or gyp8um.

44 SCENES IN SCINDE~couch, the western main; we have still time tocanter over the couple <strong>of</strong> miles <strong>that</strong> separate usfrom " Clifton."Our route <strong>is</strong> exactly the opposite one to <strong>that</strong> wefollowed th<strong>is</strong> morning. Now you see the "WestEnd" <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee, where the StaffLines are, wheregreat men dwell and where H<strong>is</strong> Excellency theGovernor, or the Comm<strong>is</strong>sioner, as the case may be,-titles are frail things here-holds h<strong>is</strong> little court.That strange looking building without windows, <strong>is</strong>the Freemasons' Lodge, the Jadoo Ghur, or "Magichouse,"as the natives call it, considering the respectableorder a band <strong>of</strong> sorcerers who meet in theirq,I.AaOEAq,EI,OU to worship the Shaitan and to concertdiabolical plans and projects against Allah's chosenpeople, themselves. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the vulgar idea. Themore learned Orientals consider freemasonry a relic<strong>of</strong> Guebr<strong>is</strong>m imbedded in the modem structure <strong>of</strong>Chr<strong>is</strong>tianity. It <strong>is</strong> the fashion, I may observe, <strong>for</strong>tree-thinking Moslems to hold the EmperorAurelian's opinion <strong>that</strong>, "among all the Gods, none<strong>is</strong> truly worthy <strong>of</strong> adoration but the sun." Impressedwith the truth <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> theory, it <strong>is</strong> no wonder,Mr. Bull, <strong>that</strong> their minds detect lurking Guebr<strong>is</strong>min everybody's belief.Clifton I How many recollections are conjured

CLIFTON! 45up by the sound <strong>of</strong> the word. Again you see theTempe <strong>of</strong> old England with its turfy dOWDS, itswood-grown chasm, and its classic stream :•II Tanto ricoo d'ODOr quanto povero d'onde." ..Clifton! you exclaim, in doggrel, <strong>for</strong> poetical youmay not beeome-s-" POW81'8 <strong>of</strong> heaven I and can it be,That th<strong>is</strong> <strong>is</strong> all I am to see 1"Yes, Mr. Bull, we are in Scinde, sir: a barrenrugged rock r<strong>is</strong>ing a few feet above the level <strong>of</strong> awretched desert plain close to the sea, and supportingsome poor attempts at human habitations, saya dozen villa-bungalows,-such are the uncomelyfeatures <strong>of</strong> Clifton in the Valley <strong>of</strong> the Indus.However the air <strong>is</strong> fresh and pure here, and .theden<strong>is</strong>ons <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee consider I assure you a weekspent at th<strong>is</strong> "watering-place IJ no small luxury.Most <strong>of</strong> the regiments have houses or pitch tentsupon the hill. The bathing, too, <strong>is</strong> good. Piles havebeen driven into the water so as to <strong>for</strong>m a barrieragainst the ravenous sharks <strong>that</strong> infest these seasand to prevent the soldiers drowning themselves• Said <strong>of</strong> the river Sebeto-" Overflowing with honor as scanty in stream." ~

46 SCENES IN BCINDE.by d<strong>is</strong>plays <strong>of</strong> natation.The great inconvenience <strong>of</strong>th<strong>is</strong> Clifton <strong>is</strong> <strong>that</strong> as it af<strong>for</strong>ds absolutely nothing;not even fresh water; you must send to Kurrachee<strong>for</strong> all you want, and your servants have a pleasantknack on such occasions <strong>of</strong> invariably taking six todo what ought to occupy two hours.There has been a large tiffin in <strong>that</strong> bungalow.Now watch proceedings.A dozen young gentlemen smoking like chimneysat Chr<strong>is</strong>tmas, talking and laughing at the same time,mount their Arabs, and show how Arabs can getdown a puzzling hill.They all draw up in a lineupon the bit <strong>of</strong> beach which separates the sea fromthe rock.There <strong>is</strong> a bet upon the tapia there.A prick <strong>of</strong> the spur and a lash with the whip: ongo the Arabs dashing like mad towards the water.A long concave wave curls as the line nears themargin, and shivering bursts in a shower <strong>of</strong> foam j<strong>of</strong> the twelve horsemen only one has weatheredthe storm, kept h<strong>is</strong> seat and won the day.Theeleven others may be seen in various positions, somestruggling in the swell, some flat upon the sand, andothers scudding about the country, vainly endeavouringto catch or to curb their runaway nags.* * * *It <strong>is</strong> time to return home. We had better skirt

BRIGADIER DUNDERHED. 47along the shore and then strike into the fashionabledrive, a long path marked out by ho<strong>of</strong>s and wheelsover the barren undulations between the Staff Lineaand the sea.There are carriages and horsemen,ladies and gentlemen, in abundance; uni<strong>for</strong>ms meetyou at every step.Brigadier Dunderhed <strong>is</strong> pleasedto be particular at present upon the article <strong>of</strong>"harness."You seeeventhe station"devil-dodger,"as h<strong>is</strong> reverence <strong>is</strong> irreverently termed by the sub.alterns, bestrides h<strong>is</strong> old grey Rosinante in thecostume <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> order-a black tail coat, and a beavercovered over with white calico.We look rather" small" amidst th<strong>is</strong> moving multitude <strong>of</strong> men inpink, and uncom<strong>for</strong>tably remarkable in our Cl mufti."So as I am not over anxious to receive a Iengthyandart<strong>is</strong>tic" wig," duly prepared and accurately fitted<strong>for</strong>, and viciously hurled at my pericranium by the-outraged Brigadier, we will, if you please, retire intothe obscurity <strong>of</strong> our private abode.* * * *Now, sir, up with you I on with the shootingjacket, the turbanded and wadded hunting-cap, theantigropiloses, and the cigar case <strong>that</strong> contains atleast five bundles <strong>of</strong> Manillas.Our tent by th<strong>is</strong> timemust be pitched at Mugur Peer, and we have ninemiles <strong>of</strong> .bad ground to fin<strong>is</strong>h be<strong>for</strong>e we reach food.

48 SCENES IN SCINDE.The "Alligator Tank," as it <strong>is</strong> called by thenatives, owes its origin and fame to one Hajee Mugu,a Moslem hermit, who first settled in the barren spot,and, to save himself the trouble <strong>of</strong> having to fetchwater from afar, caused a rill to trickle from therock above.It <strong>was</strong> v<strong>is</strong>ited by four brother saintswho, without rhyme or reason, as Mrs. B. would say,began to perpetrate a variety <strong>of</strong> miracles.One<strong>for</strong>med a hot mineral spring, whose graveolentproceeds settled in the nearest hollow, converting itinto 8 foul morass; another metamorphosed a flowerinto an animal <strong>of</strong> the crocodile species; and thethird converted the bit <strong>of</strong> stick he <strong>was</strong> wont to useas a tooth-brush into a palm-shoot, which, at oncebecoming a date-tree, af<strong>for</strong>ded the friends sweet fruitand pleasant shade.When h<strong>is</strong> time <strong>was</strong> up, the" oldest inhabitant " paid a certain debt <strong>of</strong> nature toa certain inexorable old dun, and departed en route<strong>for</strong> Firdaus,* leaving h<strong>is</strong> hallowed remains to beinterred by the fratemity close to the scene <strong>of</strong> theirpreternatural feats.After gallopping over a sandy and sterile tract,dottedwith cactus and asclepias,we climb up the PubbHills, <strong>that</strong> line <strong>of</strong> limestone rocks which bounds thenorthern extremity <strong>of</strong> the Kurrachee desert, and abuta• Parad<strong>is</strong>e.

MUGUR PEER. 49at Cape Monze, we thread our way through boulders <strong>of</strong>rock, and tread cautiously over sheets <strong>of</strong> flint, pol<strong>is</strong>hedlike glass by the feet <strong>of</strong> Scindee travellers, we descenda rugged path and descry in a ravine beneath us theoas<strong>is</strong>, containing a thick grove <strong>of</strong> palms, and thedomed mausoleum <strong>of</strong> the holy Hajee.The morningSUD upon an empty stomach has all the effects <strong>of</strong> aglass <strong>of</strong> lukewarm water after a good dinner, so wehad better sit down at once to the duty <strong>of</strong> recruitingexhausted nature.shift our tent.Besides, I see we shall have toThe careless wretches our domesticshave pitched it under a thick and spreading tamarindtree.The natives <strong>of</strong> the country assure us <strong>that</strong> anight in its cool shade <strong>is</strong> certain to be followed by afever in the morning.Once, and but once, to shamethem out <strong>of</strong> their superstition, I tried the experimentin my proper person; but, Mr. Bull, like the prejudiceassaultingcommercial gentleman who built a ship,called it "Friday," sailed it on the seaman's unluckyday, and lost it, the consequence <strong>of</strong> my little attempt<strong>was</strong> an ague, which made me quite as credulous upon<strong>that</strong> point as my in<strong>for</strong>mers were.* * * *We are in luck. There <strong>is</strong> a melo or Pilgrim's Fairat the Saint's tomb, and a party <strong>of</strong> picnic-era fromKurrachee: so we may calculate upon seeing someVOL LD

50 SCENES IN SOINDE.sport. The toot ensemble <strong>of</strong> the scene strikes youreye strangely, the glaring blue vault above vividlycontrasting with the withered and sickly foliage <strong>of</strong>the palms which are now shedding their clusters <strong>of</strong>bright gamboge-coloureddates; the quaintly habitedgroups <strong>of</strong> v<strong>is</strong>iters, the vivid emerald hue <strong>of</strong> theswamp, intersected by lines <strong>of</strong> mineral water, andcovered with the uncouth <strong>for</strong>ms <strong>of</strong> its inhabitants,slugg<strong>is</strong>h monsters, armed with a coat <strong>of</strong> mail composed<strong>of</strong> clay whitened and hardened to pottery bythe rays <strong>of</strong> the sun-all bor« de tenue, like a blackwoman dressed in red,* or a fair one in black andyellow. The little bog be<strong>for</strong>e us, though not morethan a hundred yards down the centre, by half <strong>that</strong>breadth, contains hundreds <strong>of</strong> alligators <strong>of</strong> every sizefrom two to twenty feet. But here comes the guardianangel <strong>of</strong> the place, a tall, swarth, bony, fiercelookingold fakir, who lives upon the <strong>of</strong>ferings madeto the soul <strong>of</strong> Hajee Mugur. He w<strong>is</strong>hes to know ifwe will sacrifice a goat, and try the effect <strong>of</strong> a meat<strong>of</strong>fering to Mor Sahib-Mr. Peacock-the title whichthe biggest <strong>of</strong> the monsters bears.In the dark recess <strong>for</strong>med by a small bridge builtover the narrow brick canal which supplies the• The Persians have a proverb, <strong>that</strong> a black woman dreued in red itenough to make a jackau laup.

MR. PEACOCK. 51swamp, and concealed from eyes pr<strong>of</strong>ane by thewarm, blue<strong>is</strong>h, sulphureous stream, lurks the gr<strong>is</strong>lymonarch <strong>of</strong> the place. An unhappy kid <strong>is</strong> slaughteredwith the usual religious <strong>for</strong>mula, and its lifeblood<strong>is</strong> allowed to flow as a libation into the depthsbelow. A gurgling and a bubbling <strong>of</strong> the waters<strong>for</strong>ewarn us <strong>that</strong> their tenant has acknowledged thecompliment, and presently a huge snout and a slimycrimson case, fringed with portentous fangs, protrudefrom the yawning surface.Wah! wah! I-hoorayI hooray II shouts the surroundingcrowd, intensely excited, when Mr. Peacock,after being aroused into full .activity, as h<strong>is</strong> fierce,flashing, little eyes and uneasy movements denote,by a succession <strong>of</strong> vigorous pokes and pushes with abamboo pole, condescends to snap at and swallow thehind quarter <strong>of</strong> a young goat temptingly held withinan inch <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> nose." Verily your prayers are acceptable, and greatwill be your <strong>for</strong>tunes in both worlds," solemnlyremarks the old fakir, at the same time conf<strong>is</strong>catingas h<strong>is</strong> perqu<strong>is</strong>ite the remnant <strong>of</strong> the slaughteredanimal.I regret to observe, <strong>that</strong> we are not exactly in themost respectable society, dear Mr. Bull. Most <strong>of</strong>our fair fellow pilgrims are kanyar<strong>is</strong>, or dancing girlsD~

52 SCENES IN SCINDE.from Kurrachee, and even modest women here allowthemselves a latitude <strong>of</strong> demeanour, usual enough at·sacred places, but still, quite the reverse <strong>of</strong> thestrictly proper. During the anxious moment whichdecides whether the alligator will or will not bite,eagerness gets the better <strong>of</strong> etiquette, faces areunveiled, and heads are bared in most unseemlygu<strong>is</strong>e. The groups <strong>that</strong> stand round the body <strong>of</strong> the.8wamp, throwing stones and clods <strong>of</strong> earth at itsinhabitants, are too much frightened, when one <strong>of</strong>the minor monsters sallies <strong>for</strong>th in gmmbling wrath,to think <strong>of</strong> anything but precipitate escape. And inthe adjoining spring, a bevy <strong>of</strong> African dames anddamsels are laving their uncomely limbs with thequantity <strong>of</strong> attire whieh would decently conceal ahand.Should you like to see a Seedy-nautch.*Very well, I will give the necessary orders.The preparations are speedily made. A variety <strong>of</strong>fantastic flags are planted in the ground, and themusical instruments-a huge dhol or kettle-drumand sundry horns-are deposited in the shade <strong>of</strong> thetall tamarind. As dancing <strong>is</strong> a semi-religious rite,the per<strong>for</strong>mance commences with a burnt-<strong>of</strong>fering <strong>of</strong>•* Seedy (a corruption <strong>of</strong> the Arabic ..s~) "my lord I") it thepopulu Dame in India <strong>for</strong> African blacks.

THE SEEDY-NAUTCH. 58frankincense; the musicians then strike up, roaringa recitativo, tom-toming, trumpeting, and drubbingthe drum, with the whole might <strong>of</strong> their loud,leathery lungs, and all the weight <strong>of</strong> their monstrousmuscular arms.. Here comes the corp' de ballet. It <strong>is</strong> composed<strong>of</strong> any number <strong>of</strong> dancers, male and female.first the sexes mingle, each individual describing acircle <strong>of</strong> pirouettes, without any such artifice as timeor step, round the central Hag, and chaunting rudeditties with hoarse and willing throats.AtThen thefigurantes separate themselves from the male art<strong>is</strong>tes,and assemble themselves together-fascinatinggroup I-whilst one <strong>of</strong> the number advances coquett<strong>is</strong>hly,wriggling her sides with all the grace <strong>of</strong> aPunjaub bear, and uttering a shrill cry,* whichresembles nothing but the death-shriek <strong>of</strong> a wildcat.After half an hour expended by a succession<strong>of</strong> ladies in these pal ,eula, the fascinated host <strong>of</strong>male v<strong>is</strong>-a-m can contain itself no longer within thebounds <strong>of</strong> quiet. They plunge <strong>for</strong>ward, prancing, •stop short, squat suddenly upon the ground, springup and wave their arms, shouting and howling allthe time more like maniacs than common mortals;the perspiration pours down their naked <strong>for</strong>ms, they•it Called in Penian "kil,"-in Egypt, jf I recollect right, "zugharit."

54 SCENES IN SOINDE.pant and puff most painfully; still they continue theper<strong>for</strong>mance.At times it <strong>is</strong> necessary to removeone <strong>of</strong> the gentlemen, who may have fainted fromfatigue, over-excitement, and possibly, strong waters.H<strong>is</strong> ankles are seized by the nearest pair, who drag"him testily out <strong>of</strong> the ring, squeeze a wet rag overh<strong>is</strong> prostrate <strong>for</strong>m, and then leave him to "comeround" when he can.The moment <strong>that</strong> he opensh<strong>is</strong> eyes, be sure <strong>that</strong>, game as a bull dog, he willreturn to the charge, and dance himself into anotherfit with all possible expedition.Ye admirers <strong>of</strong> the olden time, ye classicallauders<strong>of</strong> hoar antiquity, will you excuse me if I ventureupon one query?When those heavenly maids, Music and the Ballet,first came down from Olympus, condescending totake an engagement with young Greece, did they,think ye, appear in the primitive, natural, unaffected<strong>for</strong>ms which they still d<strong>is</strong>play to ecstatic<strong>is</strong>e the Seedysons <strong>of</strong> youthful Egypt?I humbly opine they did.What say you, Mr. John Bull?* * * *Now there will be something to laugh at.Out <strong>of</strong>the neighbouring tent sallies a small but select body<strong>of</strong> subalterns, in strange hats and stranger coats.They are surrounded by a pack <strong>of</strong> rak<strong>is</strong>h-looking

THE SUBALTERNS AT llUGUR PEER. 55bull terriers, yelping and dancing their joy atescaping ':from the thraldom <strong>of</strong> the kuttewala.*There <strong>is</strong> a gun, too, in the party.. They seem just now at a loss what to do. Theywander l<strong>is</strong>tlessly among the date trees, wink at theladies, "chaff" the old fakir a little, <strong>of</strong>fer up the1i8ual goat, and playfully endeavour to ram. thebamboo pole down Mr. Peacock'. throat. Theshowman remonstrates, and they in<strong>for</strong>m him, in a. COlTUpt dialect <strong>of</strong> ct the Moors," <strong>that</strong> he <strong>is</strong> an " oldmuff."A barking and a hoarse roaring from below attracttheir attention; they hurry down towards the swampand find their dogs occupied in d<strong>is</strong>turbing the repose<strong>of</strong>its possessors.. " At him, TrimI go it, PineherI five to one in goldmohurs <strong>that</strong> Snap doesn't funk the fellow: hiat'st'st,Snap f"Snap's owner <strong>is</strong> right, but the wretched littlequadruped happens to come within the sweep <strong>of</strong> ajuvenile alligator's tail, which with one lash sends himflying throughthe air into the "middle <strong>of</strong>next week."Bang I Bang IAnd two ounces <strong>of</strong> shot salute Snap's murderer'seyes and ears. Tickled by the salutation, the little* The dog-boy.

56 SCENES IN BOINDE.monster, with a curious attempt at agility, plungesinto h<strong>is</strong> native bog, grunting as if he had a.gnevance.Again the old fakir, <strong>is</strong>suing from h<strong>is</strong> sanetum,­<strong>that</strong> white dome on the rock which t9wers highabove' the straggling grove,-finds fault with thenature <strong>of</strong> the proceedings. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> time, however, .he receives a rupee and a bottle <strong>of</strong> Cognac-therespectable senior would throttle h<strong>is</strong> father, orsell h<strong>is</strong> mother, <strong>for</strong> a little more. So he retires inhigh glee, warning h<strong>is</strong> generous friends <strong>that</strong> thebeasts are very ferocious and addicted to biting.When " larking" does commence, somehow orother it <strong>is</strong> very difficult to cut its career short.Nosooner does the keeper <strong>of</strong> the lines d<strong>is</strong>appear, than...the truth <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> caution <strong>is</strong> canvassed and generallydoubted.The chief <strong>of</strong> the sceptics, a beardless boyabout seventeen, short, thin, and cock-nosed-in factthe very model <strong>of</strong> a guardsman-proposes to demonstrateby experiment "what confounded nonsensethe chap <strong>was</strong> talking." A "draw it mild, old fellow,"fixes h<strong>is</strong> intentions.The ensign turns round to take a run at the bog,looks to see <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> shoes are tightly tied, andcharges "the place right gallantly, now planting hiefoot upon one <strong>of</strong> the little tufts <strong>of</strong> rank grass which

THE CROCODILE RIDE. 57protrude from the muddy water, now lighting on analligator's back, now sticking <strong>for</strong> a moment in theblack mire, now hopping dexterously <strong>of</strong>f 8 sesquipedaliansnout. He reaches the other side with a wholeskin, although h<strong>is</strong> pantaloons .have suffered 8 littlefrom a vicious bite: narrow escapes, as one mayimagine, he has had, but pale ale and plentiful pluckare powerful preservers.A crowd assembles about the spot; the exultation<strong>of</strong> success seems to turn the young gentleman'shead. He proposes an alligator ride, <strong>is</strong> again laughedto scorn, and again runs <strong>of</strong>f, with mind made up, tothe tent. A moment afterwards he reappears, carryinga huge steel <strong>for</strong>k and a shark hook, strong andsharp, with the body <strong>of</strong> a fowl quivering on oneend, and a stout cord attached to the other. Helashes h<strong>is</strong> line carefully round one <strong>of</strong> the palmtrees and commences plying the water <strong>for</strong> amugur.*A brute nearly twenty feet long, a real Saurianevery inch <strong>of</strong> him, takes the bait and finds himselfin a predicament; he must either d<strong>is</strong>gorge a savourymorsel, or remain a pr<strong>is</strong>oner; and <strong>for</strong> S moment ortwo he makes the ignoble choice. He pulls, however,like a thorough-bred bull-dog, shakes h<strong>is</strong> head, as if* An alligator.D3

68 SCENES IN SCINDE.he w<strong>is</strong>hed to shed it, and lashes h<strong>is</strong> tail with theenergy <strong>of</strong> a shark who <strong>is</strong> being beaten to death withcapstan bars.In a moment young Waterton <strong>is</strong> seated, like anelephant driver, upon the thick neck <strong>of</strong> the reptile,who, not being accustomed to carry such weight, atonce sacrifices h<strong>is</strong> fowl, and running <strong>of</strong>t' with hierider, makes <strong>for</strong> the morass.On the way, at times,he slackens h<strong>is</strong> zigzag, wriggling course and attemptsa bite, but the prongs <strong>of</strong> the steel <strong>for</strong>k, well rammedinto the 80ft skin <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> neck, muzzle him eft'ectuallyenough.And just as the steed <strong>is</strong> plunging into h<strong>is</strong>own element, the jockey springs actively up, leaps onone side; avoids a terrific lash from the serrated tail,and again escapes better than he deserves.Poor devils <strong>of</strong> alligators-how they must ponderupon and confabulate about the good old times <strong>that</strong>were! Once, jolly as monks or rectors, with nothingin the world to do but to eat, drink, sleep, waddle,and be respected; now pelted at, f<strong>is</strong>hed <strong>for</strong>, bullied,and besieged by the Passamonts, Alabasters, andMorgantes <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee.Poor devils!* * * *As we return home we pass by one <strong>of</strong> the subterraneousaqueducts called Kareez used <strong>for</strong> irrigationthroughout Central Asia.It <strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong>med by sinking a

THE KABREZ. 69number <strong>of</strong> shafts at intervals <strong>of</strong> about twenty yards ;between each, a narrow tunnel <strong>is</strong> excavated ten ortwelve feet below the surface. Thus the inequalities<strong>of</strong> level are overeome, and water <strong>is</strong> brought downfrom the hills without evaporation, or, what <strong>is</strong> stillmore important, without its being liable to be drawn<strong>of</strong>f by strangers be<strong>for</strong>e it reaches the owner's land.~e shafts are useful <strong>for</strong> repairs as well as excavation:the- long line <strong>of</strong> earthmounds, indicating theseveral apertures, <strong>is</strong> a strange feature in a 8cindianlandscape. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> Kareez <strong>was</strong> dug by a native <strong>of</strong>Kelat, who, in order to attract public attention,otrered to bring down a copious stream <strong>of</strong> waterfrom the Pubb hills. It <strong>is</strong> wonderful how accuratelythe mountain people can judge by the eye the r<strong>is</strong>eand fall <strong>of</strong> ground, and how skilfully they manageto excavate with most inefficient implements. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>attempt, however, ended in failure, probably becausethe director <strong>of</strong> the works did not find it worth h<strong>is</strong>while to continue them.

60 SCENES IN BOINDE.CHAPTER IV.THE MARCH AND THE VERY PRETTY PERSIAN GmL.WE must remain at Kurrachee <strong>for</strong> a week or two.Land travelling in these regions requires somethingmore than the simple preparations <strong>of</strong> a .portmanteau,a carpet-bag and a hat-box, and be<strong>for</strong>e thesubsidence<strong>of</strong> the river* you might as well journey <strong>for</strong> pleasurethrough Central Africa as through the Valley <strong>of</strong>the Indus.* * * *I thought you would not long escape one <strong>of</strong> thescourges <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> wretched country-a dust storm.When we arose inthe morning the sky <strong>was</strong>lowering, the air dark; the wind blew in puffs, andunusualenough at th<strong>is</strong> time <strong>of</strong> the year-it felt rawand searching.towards the hills about 8 A..M.If you took the trouble to lookyou might haveseen a towering column <strong>of</strong> sand from the rocky hillsmixed with powdered silt from the arid plains, flyingaway fast as it could from angry puffing Boreas.* In September and October.

THE DUST STORM. 61The gale increases-blast pursuing blast, roaringand sweeping round the walls and over the ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong>the houses with the frantic violence <strong>of</strong> a typhoon.There <strong>is</strong> a horror in the sound, and then the prospectfrom the windows IIt reminds one <strong>of</strong> Firdausi'svast idea <strong>that</strong> one layer has been trampled <strong>of</strong>t'earth and added to the coats <strong>of</strong> the firmament.*You close every aperture and inlet, in the hope <strong>of</strong>escaping the most d<strong>is</strong>tressing part <strong>of</strong> the phenomenon.Save yourself the trouble, all such measures areuseless.The finer particles with which the atmosphere<strong>is</strong> laden would pass without difficulty throughthe eye <strong>of</strong> a needle; judge what com<strong>for</strong>table thoroughfaresthey must find the chinks <strong>of</strong> these warped doorsand the crannies <strong>of</strong> the puttyless munnions.It seems as though the dust recogn<strong>is</strong>ed in ourpersons kindred matter.Our heads are powderedover in five minutes; our eyes, unless we sit withclosed lids, feel as if a dash <strong>of</strong> cayenne had beenadmin<strong>is</strong>tered to them; we sneeze like schoolboysafter a first pinch <strong>of</strong> "blackguard;" our epiderm<strong>is</strong>esare grittier than a loaf <strong>of</strong> provincial French bread,and <strong>was</strong>hing would only be a mockery <strong>of</strong> res<strong>is</strong>tingthe irremediable evil.* Moslems suppoee tbat there are seven eartbs and seven beaven.,d<strong>is</strong>posed like the coats <strong>of</strong> an onion.

62 SCENES IN BCINDE.Now, Mr. Bull, if you w<strong>is</strong>h to let yoUr friendsand old cronies at home see something <strong>of</strong> theproduce <strong>of</strong> the East, call <strong>for</strong> lighted candles andsit down to compose an "overland letter."will take you at least two hours and a half t<strong>of</strong>in<strong>is</strong>h the four pages, as the pen becomes clogged andthe paper covered every fewminutes; moreover, yourspectacles require wiping at least as <strong>of</strong>ten as yourquill does.it will contain 8By the time the m<strong>is</strong>sive comes to hand,Itneat little cake <strong>of</strong> Indus mud andScinde sand moulded in the <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> the paper.TellMrs. Bull <strong>that</strong> you went without your tiffin-lunch,Imean-<strong>that</strong> you tried to sleep, but the novelsensation <strong>of</strong> being powdered all over made theattempt an abortive one,-<strong>that</strong> it <strong>is</strong> impossible tocook during 8 dust stoIm,-and <strong>that</strong> you are in<strong>for</strong> a modification <strong>of</strong> your favourite It intramuralsepulture," if the gale continues much longer.However your days are safe enough; the wind willprobably fall about five or six in the aftemoon,-it<strong>is</strong> rare <strong>that</strong> it does not go down with the SUD- .and even should it continue during the night, itwill be a farce compared to ,what we are enduringnow.* * * *Kurrachee <strong>is</strong> celebrated <strong>for</strong> healthfulness; the

CLIMATE AT KURRACHEE. 63 .beat being at least twenty degrees- less on anaverage throughout the summer hereabouts than inUpper Scinde.Moreover, there <strong>is</strong> a regular aeabreeze,and th<strong>is</strong>, together with the heavy dews, tendsmaterially to mitigate the fierce temperature <strong>of</strong>· aclimate seldom cooled by rain in twenty-five degreesnorth latitude, on the verge <strong>of</strong> the tropic.Finallythe dry soil, the deposit <strong>of</strong> the river" and the delnV<strong>of</strong> the rocks, breeds none <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> fearful miasmawhich ar<strong>is</strong>es from the jungly swamps neartheembouchures <strong>of</strong> the Indus, and renders the Delta a<strong>for</strong>midable rival to the Pontine Marshes.But Kurrachee, like Aden, Muscat" Bushire, andother similar places, though gener~y speakingsalubrious enough, has recurring cr<strong>is</strong>es <strong>of</strong> sickness,suffering severely from the v<strong>is</strong>itation <strong>of</strong> epidemics,cholera, dysentery, and fever, and at such timesshows bills <strong>of</strong> mortality which shame even SierraLeone, celebrated as she justly <strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong> her habit <strong>of</strong>running up a long account <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> nature.I am afraid, sir, <strong>that</strong> something <strong>of</strong> the kind <strong>is</strong> inthe wind now.You recollect, when we returned.from afternoon service yesterday, my calling yourattention to the peculiar lurid tinge whichoverspread* On the coast the thermometer would not riee higher than 900Fahrenheit; when at Hyderabad and Sukkur, it would be 110°.

64 SCENES IN SCINDE.the face <strong>of</strong> nature: perhaps, too, you have not <strong>for</strong>gottenthe sensations <strong>of</strong> which you complainedduring our evening walk.The air felt as if wewere standing upon the crater <strong>of</strong> Vesuvius on awindless day; it <strong>was</strong> still and stagnant as if its powers<strong>of</strong> motion had passed away; our lungs were parchedby the unwholesome unnatural heat, and our eyeballswere scorched as if they had been exposed tothe burning rays <strong>of</strong> the mid-day sun.Our spiritswere more depressed even than we might haveexpected them to be ; we recogn<strong>is</strong>ed a sinking <strong>of</strong> theheart, a painful anxiety about nothing, and sundryother symptoms which boded no good.A nativeremarked to us <strong>that</strong> all the kites and birds <strong>of</strong> prey,generally wheeling and hovering over the camp, hadd<strong>is</strong>appeared, and he considered their departureanother by no means propitious omen.Finally, it<strong>is</strong> the seventh year, and though you may not attachmuch importance to such coincidence, I do.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> morning three stout fellows-privates in herMajesty's -regiment, died <strong>of</strong> Asiatic cholera in itsmost malignant doctor-baffling shape.were alive and well yesterday evening.The victimsBy breakfasttime to-morrow, there will be a dozen in their gravesand a score or two in hospital.* * * *

PREPARATIONS FOR THE MARCH. 65Entre ROUB, the best thing we can do <strong>is</strong> to be <strong>of</strong>t'at once, sir.You have now every necessary <strong>for</strong> along march-a bechoba, or poleless tent <strong>of</strong> Bengal"not Bombay * manufacture, with a single fly andtwo side-flaps, <strong>for</strong> your people to sleep under.Alsoan old Arab-a veteran hog-hunter,' and a steady,roadster-an Affghan yaboo, as they call <strong>that</strong> breed<strong>of</strong> short, stout, shaggy pony, a sandnee or dromedary<strong>for</strong> your own riding, and four baggage camels to•carry your canvass home, and its furniture,. table"and chair, canteen and crockery, couch, carpet, andchest <strong>of</strong> drawers.Your other animals are eight innumber; "Pepper," a spiteful little terrier, the bestpossible body-guard during a march, a head servant,at once butler, footman, valet, and cook; a boy, h<strong>is</strong>aide-de-cpmp, two horsekeepers, a grass cutter, anda pair <strong>of</strong> camel drivers.We must take a <strong>was</strong>herwomanand certain unclean drudges between us.There are two ways <strong>of</strong> getting to Ghana, the firststation on the road to Hyderabad, one by water, theother by land. I~ however, preferring the <strong>for</strong>mer,. .with a view to save trouble, we take a boat atGhizree Bunder, the embarkation place, near"Clifton," we shall probably find ebb tide in the• The <strong>for</strong>mer are as justly famous as the latter are desp<strong>is</strong>ed,tent will generally last out two Bombay ones,A Bengal

66 SCENES IN 8CINDE.creek, a desolating sun and a strong wind dead inourteeth. So we will make up our mind to startthe servants directly, with orders to march upon1emadar-Ka Landa,t the nearest stage, d<strong>is</strong>tant aboutthirteen miles from camp.* i * * *Our route lies eastward <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee, over the lowhills, and the little desert where the dust stormslove to wander. There <strong>is</strong> little remarkable in it,•except <strong>that</strong> we are morally certain to lose the roadifsuchname can be given to the one in a thousandfootpaths and ho<strong>of</strong>-tracks into which we happened t<strong>of</strong>all when we left the cantonment-so regularly everyhalf-hour, <strong>that</strong> our journey will more than doubleits proper length.That pole on the summit <strong>of</strong> the little hill we arenow passing marks the spotwhere a celebratedScindee, "Wildfire Dick," by name Fakirah, paidthe last penalty <strong>of</strong> the law <strong>for</strong> murdering an Engl<strong>is</strong>h<strong>of</strong>ficer in cold blood.An old hysena prowls aboutthe spot, and the credulous natives believe him to bethe eaeodemon, whose foul influence impelled thefreebooter to do 80 unlucky a deed.Observe, every one we meet <strong>is</strong> in peaceful gu<strong>is</strong>e.* The "Jemadar's Station;" 10 called from a native <strong>of</strong>ficial, whomany yean ago built a mud tower near the village.

DISARMING THE POPULATION. 67One <strong>of</strong> the first orders <strong>is</strong>sued by the conqueror <strong>of</strong>.Scinde <strong>was</strong>, <strong>that</strong> no man should carry weaponsabout h<strong>is</strong> person.It <strong>was</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the old warrior'sshrewd, w<strong>is</strong>e, despotic, measures. Large bodies <strong>of</strong>armed men were thereby prevented from meeting toconcert conspiracies, and quiet people saw withaston<strong>is</strong>hment and admiration <strong>that</strong> the personalsafety <strong>of</strong> the subject <strong>was</strong> become a public, not aprivate care.Many a Kurrachee-ite remembers theday when no man dared walk from the town to theRam-Bagh, a d<strong>is</strong>tance <strong>of</strong> half a mile, without swordand shield, matchlock and dagger.To show you what the value <strong>of</strong> human life <strong>was</strong> inthose days :-Some fifteen years ago, a clanBeloochies had wandered down from their nativemountains, and had pitched their tents on the plain<strong>that</strong> lies to the north <strong>of</strong> the cantonment.<strong>of</strong>It <strong>is</strong>related <strong>that</strong> on one occasion an old lady-a widowsent<strong>for</strong>th her only son to collect a little "rhino"from any travellers he might chance to meet.Shebuckled on h<strong>is</strong> sword like a Spartan mother, prayinglustily the while, and followed with anxious eyes h<strong>is</strong>lessening <strong>for</strong>m, making it the object <strong>of</strong> many aheart-breathed ben<strong>is</strong>on.It <strong>was</strong> the boy's maiden <strong>for</strong>ay, and he startedupon it with the determination not to d<strong>is</strong>grace the

68 SCENES IN SCINDE.lengthy line <strong>of</strong> celebrated thieves, h<strong>is</strong> ancestors.The first person he met <strong>was</strong> a Soindian, trudgingalong on foot, armed as usual, cap-a-pie, and carryingon h<strong>is</strong> back an earthen pot-lid, the extent <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> morning's purchases at the neighbouring markettown.To cry "stand and deliver l " <strong>was</strong> the work <strong>of</strong> amoment. As rapidly, too, the order <strong>was</strong> obeyedanative <strong>of</strong> these plains seldom dared to bandywords or blows with an armed highlander.The young Belooch secured the pot-lid.But presently the dark idea <strong>of</strong> the maternal d<strong>is</strong>appointmentand d<strong>is</strong>gust at the paltry nature <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>virgin booty, and the danger <strong>of</strong> being d<strong>is</strong>gracefullydesignated a u prigger <strong>of</strong> pot-lids," settled heavilyupon the boy's sensitive mind. What <strong>was</strong> he to do ?Suddenly a bright thought d<strong>is</strong>persed the gloomy<strong>for</strong>ebodings. He cut the Scindian down, struck <strong>of</strong>fh<strong>is</strong> head, placed it upon the platter and carried it intriumph as a peshkash, or honorary <strong>of</strong>fering, to h<strong>is</strong>mamma."And hast thou really slain th<strong>is</strong> Scindee dog <strong>for</strong>the sake <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> pot-lid, two <strong>of</strong> which go <strong>for</strong> afarthing, my son?" anxiously inquired the venerablematron, with a beating heart."Wallah-by the Lord-I did, mother!"

THE MARCH. 69"Then happy am I, among the daughters <strong>of</strong> theBelooch, and blessed be thou, my boy r and thysons r and thy son's sons!<strong>for</strong> ever and ever!"quoth the widow, bursting into a crying fit <strong>of</strong> joy.* * * *We, however, use the privilege <strong>of</strong> the ruling race,as our holsters show, not so much <strong>for</strong> the purpose <strong>of</strong>safety as with the object <strong>of</strong> impressing the nativeswith a sense <strong>of</strong> our national superiority.The onlydangerous animal we are at all likely to meet withhere <strong>is</strong> some native trooper's runaway jade.Remember,if you do see one charging us, with tailerect and head depressed, whinnying like the FireKing's steed, draw your revolver, and put him atonce hor» de combat,Our first day's march <strong>is</strong> interesting in one point<strong>of</strong> view: during the whole morning's ride, we seenot one inch <strong>of</strong> cultivated, though every second mile<strong>of</strong> it <strong>is</strong> culturable, ground.The road crosses anumber <strong>of</strong> fiumaras, all sand at th<strong>is</strong> season, andstretches over a succession <strong>of</strong> heavy shingles, barerocks, and burning deserts, which would not be out<strong>of</strong> place in Bedouin land.There <strong>is</strong> the Jemadar's station.It <strong>is</strong> a fairspecimen <strong>of</strong> the village in southern Scinde: thecomponent matter cons<strong>is</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> a well, a few shops or

10hootbI <strong>of</strong> matting, where Yendon 01. grain, ••eetmeat.,.egetables, and clarified hutler expose theirw.ant1 Itorea, and a ~agedline <strong>of</strong> h~half' mud,hall "nin-droppiDg wattles, where]' in foal weather,the tenant (like poor Paddy) can ICaftely find • dryput to Yepoee h<strong>is</strong> sky-bapt<strong>is</strong>ed hmd," and wllere, inRlJDJDeJ' leMOn, the oeeupant, one would~<strong>is</strong>in eoDItant jmminent peril <strong>of</strong> sun-stroke and bnin­!eYer.Oar tent <strong>is</strong> pitched upon a dwarf plain JlNI'the road, our eft'ects are scattered upon its witheredgrua plat, and our people ue loitering about thebushes beyond, or l'luatting under the single tree,in expectation <strong>of</strong> our arrival.You d<strong>is</strong>mount, somewhat stiftly.It <strong>is</strong> your firstride after some months, and a long canter <strong>is</strong> apt toproduce temporary inconvenience.You will, doubtlea,be better in the afternoon.And noW' <strong>for</strong> breakfast-G la 8cUadiem&e:Baasusurping the throne <strong>of</strong> Hyson, unleavened cakes <strong>of</strong>wheaten flour, salt, and water, doing duty ..buttered toast, and a hot curry the succedaneum <strong>for</strong>. cold meat.•If there be anything <strong>of</strong> the wanderer in yourdUpolition, Mr. Bull, and I know there <strong>is</strong>, you willBOOn like th<strong>is</strong> style <strong>of</strong> life. The initiation <strong>is</strong>, <strong>of</strong>course, an ef<strong>for</strong>t. After gliding over a railroad at

QUARRELLING SERVANTS. 71the rate <strong>of</strong> thirty-five miles per hour, you ared<strong>is</strong>posed to grumble at our creeping pace on the line<strong>of</strong> march. At the halt, you m<strong>is</strong>s your" com<strong>for</strong>ts,".your hotel, your newspaper, and your thousandunnecessary necessaries <strong>of</strong> civil<strong>is</strong>ed ex<strong>is</strong>tence.One<strong>of</strong> your camels has fallen down and broken half yourcrockery-you need not turn up your eyes in despair;it <strong>is</strong> quite as easy to drink ale out <strong>of</strong> a tea-cup 88 .,tumbler.Your couch <strong>is</strong> a perfect wreck-nevel"mind, we will make up another, in the shape <strong>of</strong> a'Wooden frame, l<strong>is</strong>ted along and across, with a hookat each comer, and secure it between two bullocktrunks.Our servants, I hear, have been fighting, asTurks are said to do.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> a real annoyance: wemust crush it in embryo, if we want to live inpeace.We summon the <strong>of</strong>fenders. After the delay naturalto the man, who expects no good to come <strong>of</strong> haste,appear Messieurs Rama and Govind, plaintiff anddefendant."0 80DS <strong>of</strong> doggesses! What shameful work<strong>is</strong> th<strong>is</strong>?""Sahib, <strong>is</strong> it by your order and direction <strong>that</strong> thyman smites me upon the lips with h<strong>is</strong> slipper?" ¥ksBarna, blubbering."Sahib, <strong>is</strong> it by your order and direction <strong>that</strong>

72 SCENES IN SCINDE.th<strong>is</strong> man calls my mother naughty names, and tellsme <strong>that</strong> I eat corpses? " inquires Govind, fiercely.We d<strong>is</strong>m<strong>is</strong>s both parties, with a little counterirritation applied by my tongue and boot to somethingmore tangible than the part chafed by angrywords.Those fellows, both having reason, as theyimagine, to abuse us, will be on the best possibleterms be<strong>for</strong>e sunset, and they are not likely toquarrel again soon, much less to annoy us with theird<strong>is</strong>putes.The sea-breeze blows freshly here, and,afterbreakfast, you will enjoy a nap exceedingly.* * * *Now, Mr. Bull, I will tell you how I employedmy mind, whilst you were dozing away the <strong>for</strong>enoon.Do you see <strong>that</strong> array <strong>of</strong> striped tents, thosescattered boxes, neglected bags, and heaps <strong>of</strong> camellitters, in whose glaring shade repose some dozens<strong>of</strong> long-bearded individuals, with huge conical caps<strong>of</strong> lamb's wool, fierce eyes, thick beards, loud voices,and a terrible habit <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ane swearing?They are Persians, escorting one <strong>of</strong> the prettiestgirls ever seen to her father's house, near Kurrachee.The first thing which attracted my attention afteryou went to sleep, <strong>was</strong> the appearance <strong>of</strong> a littleslave boy, who, when h<strong>is</strong> fellow domestics addressed

.A. MORNING'S OCCUPATION. 73themselves to the morningsiesta, kept walkingabout the entrance <strong>of</strong> our tent, looking in at times,and taking every precaution to evade all eyes butmine.up.I awaited an opportunity, and called himHe removed h<strong>is</strong> slippers, salaamed, bending<strong>for</strong>ward with h<strong>is</strong> hand on h<strong>is</strong> right thigh,* and thenstood up to be catech<strong>is</strong>ed."Who art thou, son?"" My name <strong>is</strong> Lallu-birth-place, Bushire,"" And what <strong>is</strong> thy employment?""I serve the Beebee, in the house <strong>of</strong> the greatSardar,t-A***a Khan.""Indeed! thou art a wonderful youth.thou like confectionery?go to the bazaar, and stuff thyself.DostThen take th<strong>is</strong> rupee,If thou w<strong>is</strong>hestto come here presently and chat awhile, there <strong>is</strong> n<strong>of</strong>ear."The little wretch-he scarcely numbers twelvesummers-looked knowing as a boy in your city <strong>of</strong>infant phenomena;again bowed, shuffled on h<strong>is</strong>slippers and departed, with a grin and a prom<strong>is</strong>e toreturn.Then taking my pen and ink, Iindite the following billet dO'lJ3Jproceeded toupon a sheet <strong>of</strong>... A very respectful style <strong>of</strong> salutatiou, called in Penia the" kurnieh."t A Doble.VOL.L•

SCENES IN SCIND.E.bright yellow note paper, the U correct thing" inth<strong>is</strong> early stage <strong>of</strong> an affaire (de Ct.eUT), we willcall it:-U The rose-bud <strong>of</strong> my hear<strong>that</strong>h opened andbloomed under the rays <strong>of</strong> those sunny eyes, and thefine linen * <strong>of</strong> my soul receiveth with ecstasy thelustres which pour from <strong>that</strong> moon-like brow.But,woe <strong>is</strong> me! the garden lacketh its songster, and thesimooms <strong>of</strong> desire have d<strong>is</strong>persed the frail m<strong>is</strong>ts <strong>of</strong>hope.Such th<strong>is</strong> servant (i. e•. myself) knows to beh<strong>is</strong> destiny; as the poet sings-II I Why, oh ! why, <strong>was</strong> such heavenly beauty givenTo a stone from the flint rock's surface riven 1'U Even so the hapless inditer <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> lamentremarketh <strong>that</strong>-" I The diamond's throne <strong>is</strong> the pure red gold;Shall the almas +rest on the vile black mould 1'" And he k<strong>is</strong>seth the shaft which the bow <strong>of</strong> Fatehath d<strong>is</strong>charged at the bosom <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> bl<strong>is</strong>s.And helooketh <strong>for</strong>ward to the grave which <strong>is</strong> immediatelyto receive him and h<strong>is</strong> m<strong>is</strong>eries.For haply thyfoot may pass over h<strong>is</strong> senseless clay; the sweet* Thi. Oriental image may not be familiar to the Engl<strong>is</strong>h reader. InPenian poetry, the stuff called karbas <strong>is</strong> supposed-why I know not-to beenamoured <strong>of</strong> the moon.+ The adamant or diamond. The venes are Nizami's.

THE LOVE LETTER. 76influence <strong>of</strong> thy presence may shed light over <strong>that</strong>dark abode."Then after sealing th<strong>is</strong> production with wax thesame colour as the paper, I traced the following lineswith an unsteady hand, in very crooked andheart-broken characters, upon the place where"M<strong>is</strong>s A " &c., &c., would have been.If The marks on th<strong>is</strong> sheet are not the stains <strong>of</strong> smoke (i. e. ink),But the black pupils <strong>of</strong> my eyes d<strong>is</strong>solved by scalding tears;Ask <strong>of</strong> my heart what its fate <strong>is</strong>-it will tell theeThat when tears are exhausted, its blood will begin to flow."When the slave-boy reappeared we renewed ourdialogue, and, after much affected hesitation, heproceeded to d<strong>is</strong>close further particulars.<strong>for</strong>bad h<strong>is</strong> mentioning the lady's name;Etiquetteon othersubjects, however, the young Mercury <strong>was</strong> sufficientlycommunicative, and at last he departed witha prom<strong>is</strong>e to put the m<strong>is</strong>sive into the Beebee's handwhen he could, and to report progress in the course<strong>of</strong> the afternoon.* * *Now, Mr. Bull, be asleep if you please!Lallu<strong>is</strong> sneaking about the tent again, and the presence<strong>of</strong> a " party" en tiers operates unfavourably on theseoccasions.S· , Ir.Turn your face towards the tent wall,B2

78 SCENES IN SOINDE.<strong>for</strong>th muffled and wrapped up; the beast, her dromedary,'kneels; she mounts, turning her latticedfacetowards us; I hear a tiny giggle; she wh<strong>is</strong>persa word in the ear <strong>of</strong> the slave girl <strong>that</strong> sits besideher; the auditor also laughs; they draw the littercurtains; the camels start-* Modest women, in Persia, when they leave the house, always wear thebuik&. See Chapter XIV.

WUTTAJEE.• 19CHAPTER V.THE LEGEND OF BHAMBORA-SCINDIA DESERTA-THEFAREWELL ORDER OF A COMMANDER-IN·CHIEF ANDTHE CAMEL RIDER.WE are now progressing towards Wuttajee, thesecond stage from Kurrachee, on the road <strong>of</strong> the FiveTorrents-about which anon.Wuttajee af<strong>for</strong>ds the unusual convenience <strong>of</strong> acaravanserai; a deserted mosque having been desecratedinto utility.Itwill be better when re-ro<strong>of</strong>ed,but in the long mean time we can make ourselvescom<strong>for</strong>table enough, half exposed to the winds <strong>of</strong>'heaven.Native travellers you see, sir, have scribbled overthe well-plastered walls, prec<strong>is</strong>ely as ifthey had beenEngl<strong>is</strong>hmen; and our compatriots have not <strong>for</strong>gottento write and scrape many a "GREEN" and a" BROWN" sprawlingly over the more modestsignatures and the less striking inscriptions <strong>of</strong> theirblack fellow-subjects.

80 SCENES IN SCINDE.. A few <strong>of</strong> the oriental compositions•enough.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> one <strong>for</strong> instance:•are amusmg" Matters are come to a pretty pass, ye Moslems,When Chr<strong>is</strong>tian hounds eat porkand drink wine in theMosque I"Some patriotic, probably "unemployed," * individualhas recorded a burning w<strong>is</strong>h in the following" 0 Shere Mahommed,t turn the reins <strong>of</strong> thy steed towardsScinde,Andwith one flash <strong>of</strong> thy brand consume f Nupeer.' "And a little below, fanatics, in their cups I shouldsuppose, have been hard at work.terms:-writes:-One gentleman"A lac <strong>of</strong> evil curses light on the head <strong>of</strong> Umar:::The son <strong>of</strong> Khattab I "Near which an orthodox Moslem has thus notedh<strong>is</strong> violent detestation <strong>of</strong>such a sch<strong>is</strong>matical, heretical,and damnable sentiment:-C6 0, base-born one, mayst thou die a hateful death,And may dogs make a divan <strong>of</strong> thy tomb I"<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>, you may observe, Mr. Bull, <strong>is</strong> the oriental• "Employment," in th<strong>is</strong> country, means a salary from govemment.t The only Ameer in 8cinde who .howed courage or conduct in attackiogor re8i8ting us.::: The seccnd Caliph or auccel80r to Mohammed: he i8 ahmya cunedby the Shieh tecto

BHAMBORA. 81.way <strong>of</strong> doing the NO POPERY and the BAD ENDTO THE POPE, which, at periods <strong>of</strong> excitement,you are fond <strong>of</strong> seeing chalked upon your walls andpavements at home and in the s<strong>is</strong>ter <strong>is</strong>land.* * * *From Wuttajee to Ghana th<strong>is</strong> moming-a plainsuch as Scinde only can d<strong>is</strong>play.I feel almostd<strong>is</strong>posed to point out the marks <strong>of</strong> the old coast, andto lecture you upon the t( geology and extinct f<strong>is</strong>hes"<strong>of</strong> the country.However, <strong>that</strong> hill, a few hundredyards <strong>of</strong>f the road, r<strong>is</strong>ing abruptly on one side fromthe sandy flat <strong>that</strong> skirts the neighbouring creek,'and on the other sinking gradually into the broken,bushy, rocky ground behind it, will supply us withhalf an hour's" story-telling," certainly much morerational, and probably a little more amusing.Bhambora-some identify it with the ancient emporiumBarbarika-<strong>is</strong> supposed by the natives to bethe most ancient sea-port in Scinde.Nothing <strong>of</strong> its<strong>for</strong>mer state now remains but the foundations <strong>of</strong>houses, bastions, and walls, and the ghostly romanceswhich haunt the deserted hill-top.Tradition asserts, <strong>that</strong> the city and its citizenswere all swallowed up in one night because <strong>of</strong> the'prodigious wickedness <strong>of</strong> the ruler DUu Rahi, whohad set h<strong>is</strong> mind upon compelling the fair dame <strong>of</strong> alIl3

82 SCENES IN SCINDE.'Moslem convert to. break a certain commandment.It <strong>is</strong> still a celebrated locality in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> theworld on account <strong>of</strong> the following bit <strong>of</strong> rudepoetry which the bards and minstrels have asaociatedwith it:-In the days when Islam began to take firm rootin Scinde, and like the glorious Tuba* <strong>of</strong> Parad<strong>is</strong>e,to af<strong>for</strong>d goodly fruit and sweet perfume and gratefulshade to the erring souls <strong>that</strong> wandered over theSaharas <strong>of</strong> transgression,worshiping wood, stoneand metals, the wife <strong>of</strong> a Brahmin, at Tattah, onthe Indus, bare him a daughter.It <strong>was</strong> a lovelychild in face and <strong>for</strong>m, but the astrologers, havingconsulted their <strong>book</strong>s, declared her fate <strong>was</strong> to becomea Muslimah,t to marry a <strong>for</strong>eigner, and to d<strong>is</strong>graceher family.Determined to avert th<strong>is</strong> prodigious evilfrom themselves, the parents procured a c<strong>of</strong>fer, placedthe babe in it with a rich bracelet, and committedher to the safeguard <strong>of</strong> the sacred stream.Mother,as the poet sings, never nursed Sassooee; the wildwaves cradled her on their rough bosom, and thewilder winds howled her lullaby.By the decree <strong>of</strong> destiny,-and who can escape it?-the ark floated down to Bhambora, in those days aflour<strong>is</strong>hing city with glittering spires* The Tuba <strong>is</strong> a wonderful tree in Mohammed's heaven.t A Ibe-moalem.and proud

THE LEGEND OF BHA.:M.BORA. 88palaces, whose walls towered majestic as monarchsover the surrounding country, and whose gardens lay•beautiful as the plains which hour<strong>is</strong> tread.A <strong>was</strong>herman, who <strong>was</strong> exerc<strong>is</strong>ing h<strong>is</strong> craft on thebank <strong>of</strong>the Indus, drew out the c<strong>of</strong>fer, and, aston<strong>is</strong>hedat the sight <strong>of</strong> its beautiful contents, called to theby-standers, h<strong>is</strong> "d<strong>is</strong>ciples," "See, 0 ye men, thetricks <strong>of</strong> the world; to the childless, a child <strong>is</strong> bomeby the river! "After the lapse <strong>of</strong> years, the fair Sassooee becamethe boast and the beauty <strong>of</strong> Bhambora.No scimitarever dealt more deadly wounds than did the curve <strong>of</strong>her eyebrow jno shaft pierced deeper into man'sheart than the lashes <strong>that</strong> defended her lovely orbs;her brow shone dazzlingly as the light <strong>of</strong> day, andher hair gloomed deeply as the midnight murks.Speaking in Engl<strong>is</strong>h, she <strong>was</strong> a very pretty girl, andmade a considerable sensation in (female) society.As the fair one <strong>was</strong> sitting with her companions,spinning at the window <strong>of</strong> her atan, a travellingtrader happened to pass by.The young ladies,admiring h<strong>is</strong> handsome appearance, called him in,­he <strong>was</strong> a Hindoo, so they were not under apprehension<strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> regards,-and began a conversation cons<strong>is</strong>ting<strong>of</strong> coquetry and curiosity in equal parts. After• The Atan in Scinde <strong>is</strong> the Gyneceum, or ladies' apartment

84 SCENES IN SCINDE.many questions and answers, they found out <strong>that</strong> he<strong>was</strong> servant <strong>of</strong> An, the Beloch chief, whose city <strong>was</strong>.Kech, in the province <strong>of</strong> Mekran. Moreover, theconscientious Babiho, when highly complimentedupon the subject <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> comeliness, declared himselfan ifrit,* (a fright as we say), in compar<strong>is</strong>on with h<strong>is</strong>young master-Punhu.Khan.Forthwith the fire <strong>of</strong> love arose from the fuel <strong>of</strong>Sassooee's heart; <strong>for</strong>, as saith the w<strong>is</strong>e man," Ofttimes the ear loveth be<strong>for</strong>e the eye."And surrendering herself to the tyrant with amiableahandon, she indited, or caused to be indited, a note<strong>of</strong> invitation to her unseen flame, and sent him ahandsome jacket,-a delicate hint, I presume, to comedressed like a gentleman.Punhu, by the subtlety <strong>of</strong> Babiho, h<strong>is</strong> father'sbagsman, escaping the paternal surveillance, which<strong>is</strong> described to be even stricter than <strong>that</strong> <strong>of</strong> theFrench police, v<strong>is</strong>ited the fair Sassooee, loved her,and lived in her adopted parents' house under thehumble d<strong>is</strong>gu<strong>is</strong>e <strong>of</strong> a <strong>was</strong>herman, till he earned h<strong>is</strong>prize, and married h<strong>is</strong> m<strong>is</strong>tress. A world <strong>of</strong> happi-• The Arabic word i8 ifrit, an iambic, according to our ideas. TheMu8C <strong>of</strong> Anglo-Eastem poetry has changed it to afrit, and made it,moreover, a trochee,

THE LEGEND OF BH.A.1tIBORA. 85ness now lay be<strong>for</strong>e the pair, who prepared themselves<strong>for</strong> a charming cru<strong>is</strong>e, en tdte-a-tdte, down thestream <strong>of</strong> days. But upon the Indus, as elsewhere,(alas!) there <strong>is</strong> a snagg called Circumstance uponwhich the frail barque <strong>of</strong> Love <strong>is</strong> sorely apt to strike.It <strong>is</strong> related, <strong>that</strong> when Ari, the proud old Beloch,heard <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> Benjamin's abominable conduct, he toreif h<strong>is</strong> turban, and dashed it to the ground, scatteredashes upon h<strong>is</strong> vestments, rent h<strong>is</strong> skirts, spoiled h<strong>is</strong>shirt-front, and positively refused to <strong>was</strong>h. Moreover,not content with thus benefiting h<strong>is</strong> tailor, hesent at least two dozen <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> stalwart sons to fetchthe fugitive home; and-though th<strong>is</strong> <strong>is</strong> a mere con..jecture on my part-I doubt not <strong>that</strong> he occupiedhimself sedulously during their absence in preparinga stout rod <strong>for</strong> the benefit <strong>of</strong> the young gentleman'scorduroys. The hard-hearted fraternity, furious at theidea <strong>of</strong> a Beloch's degrading himself to take in foullinen, hastened to Bhambora, and, in no w<strong>is</strong>e appeasedby their s<strong>is</strong>ter-in-law's beauty, kindness, hospitality,and skill in cookery, succeeded, partly by <strong>for</strong>ce andp~ly by stratagem, in carrying <strong>of</strong>f Punhu very ,drunk upon the back <strong>of</strong> a high trotting dromedary.Who can describe Sassooee's grief, when awakingat dawn she opens her lovely eyes, and looks lovinglyand finds no beloved husband by her side? She

66 SCENES IN SCINDE.does not faint-Scindee women still have so much tolearn !-but she shrieks and wrings her hands, andweeps rainy tears thick as the drops <strong>that</strong> patterupon the hills over which her lover <strong>is</strong> being borne.The fresh footprints upon the sand reveal the"horrid truth," and the lady feels <strong>that</strong> <strong>for</strong> her there<strong>is</strong> left but one course-pursuit.Her "poor mother" reminds her <strong>of</strong> her dutiessheheeds not the maternal words; her companionsprognosticate-as friends are so fond <strong>of</strong> doing-s-amillion certain d<strong>is</strong>asters,and sudden death.concluding with murder" Go not <strong>for</strong>th to the wild, where snakes lurk,Where wolves and bears sit in ambush <strong>for</strong> the wayfarer,Where fierce hornets buzz."-&c. &0. &0.She merely <strong>for</strong>bids them to accompany her-theynever <strong>of</strong>fered tomoving words:-do so, be it observed-in theseII Follow me not, ye damsels and dames,Lest haply, when dying <strong>of</strong> thirst, ye curse my husband!"And starts on foot, alone, without kit or provender,<strong>for</strong> a two hundred mile march, across a. dreadfuldesert.What a barbarous land it must be <strong>that</strong> can dream<strong>of</strong> producing such a woman; or rather, what a terriblestate <strong>of</strong> society it <strong>is</strong> <strong>that</strong> can read 80 improbable an

THE LEGEND OF BIlAMBORA. 87incident, and not reject it, and not call the author"loonI"The road <strong>of</strong> the Five Torrents (we travelled over ityesterday, Mr. Bull,) <strong>was</strong>, in those days, a <strong>was</strong>te <strong>of</strong>waters: the fair one dried them up by the fervency. .<strong>of</strong> her prayers, and, by similar efficacious means,caused the drainage <strong>of</strong> the hills to flow down readyscooped-outchannels.I gallop hurriedly over thewide field <strong>of</strong> .description-e-the novelty <strong>of</strong> the lady'8feelings, the peculiarities <strong>of</strong> her ejaculations, the'fariety <strong>of</strong> her apostrophes, and the pra<strong>is</strong>eworthyintensity <strong>of</strong> her perseverance, in spite <strong>of</strong> sun, simoon,\fatigue, and sore feet-and, cramming my Pegasus atthe fence <strong>of</strong> conclusion, hasten to be in at the death.Sassooee presently reached the Pubb mountains,where, faint with thirst, she applied to a goatherd<strong>for</strong> a draught <strong>of</strong> milk.Now Fate had so d<strong>is</strong>posed it<strong>that</strong> th<strong>is</strong> wretch, who deserves the name, beingdescribed as a perfect Caliban in hideous appearance,. .had been told by the old Sycorax, h<strong>is</strong> mama, <strong>that</strong>a beautiful bride would about <strong>that</strong> time meet him inthe wild.Seeing the fair wanderer, he at oncedetermined <strong>that</strong> she <strong>was</strong> the proper person, and<strong>for</strong>thwith began a d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong> affection and gallantry,to say the least <strong>of</strong> it, decidedly inconvenient underthe circumstances.At length the un<strong>for</strong>tunate one,

88 SCENES IN SCINDE.driven to despair, again petitioned to Heaven to preserveher honour, which it did by the rough andready expedient, commonly manifested in Seinde, <strong>of</strong>causing her to sink bodily beneath the yawningground.Then Caliban, convinced <strong>that</strong> there W88some m<strong>is</strong>take about the matter, fell, like a monster81 be WaI, to howling over h<strong>is</strong> wickedness, and thento piling up a mound <strong>of</strong> stones-a couthless tributeto departed purity and loveliness.As usually happens, or <strong>is</strong> made to happen in suchcues, Punhu, who had slipped away from the grimfraternity, arrived at the identical spot <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> wife'svivi-sepulture exactly five minutes after the monumenthad been erected.from below-be stands-he l<strong>is</strong>tens:-Suddenly he hears a voiceII Enter boldly, my Punhu; think not to find a narrow bed."Here gardens bloom, and flowers shed sweetest savour;Here are fruits, and shades, and cooling streams,And the Prophet's1ight pours through our abode,BanilbiDg from ita limits death and decay."Can he refuse to comply with the modest request?Ah no!-" Not such h<strong>is</strong> faith, not such h<strong>is</strong> love."• The. liD. contain the popular IUpentitiODJ upon the lubject <strong>of</strong> in·dividualt <strong>that</strong> die In the valour <strong>of</strong> eanctity. Their grave. are wide aDdlight, rather pleuant p1aca than otherwile, and their bodies are Dot rep.Jar11 dead and liable to decay like thOle <strong>of</strong> ordinaty mortals. No trueMOilem doubtl <strong>for</strong> a moment <strong>that</strong> hi. Prophet'. corpse, were the tombopened, would appear exactly u it did in life.

GHARRA. 89He prayed and <strong>was</strong> swallowed up, and became asaint accordingly.* * * *Look at <strong>that</strong> unhappy hole-it <strong>is</strong> Ghana.The dirty heap <strong>of</strong> mud and mat hovels <strong>that</strong> <strong>for</strong>msthe native village <strong>is</strong> built upon a mound, the dlbria ,<strong>of</strong> <strong>for</strong>mer Gharras, close to a creek which mayormay not have been the "westem outlet <strong>of</strong> the Indusin Alexander's time." All around it lies a-"windy sea <strong>of</strong> land :"---salt, flat, barren rock and sandy plain, where etemalsea gales blow up and blow down a succession <strong>of</strong>hillocks-warts upon the foul face <strong>of</strong> the landscape-stretching far, far away, in all the regular irregularity<strong>of</strong> desolation.You see the cantonment with its falling brick linesoutside, and its -tattered <strong>that</strong>ched ro<strong>of</strong>s peeping fromthe inside <strong>of</strong> a tall dense hedge <strong>of</strong> bright green milkbush. Upon <strong>that</strong> place I intend to hang a tale,Mr. Bull-a quiet little bit <strong>of</strong> egot<strong>is</strong>m which might,but probably will not, edify or instruct you.Some years oag~ when my corps <strong>was</strong> ordered up toyoung Egypt, we were sent to relieve a regimentabout to quit Gharra. Our predecessors had notbuiltbarracks or bungalows, because they knew <strong>that</strong>•

•90 SCENES IN SCINDE.their time <strong>of</strong> field-service in Scinde <strong>was</strong> ended.But we, who had four or five years <strong>of</strong> it in prospect,found ourselves in a different position.In th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong>the Unhappy Valley, sir, the summerheat <strong>of</strong>ten reaches 115 0 ; <strong>for</strong> a tent add perhaps 10°.Now 125 0 <strong>of</strong> Fahrenheit, lasting, mind you, <strong>for</strong>,months together, <strong>is</strong> exceedingly likely to hurry andhustle one half-roasted to one's hot grave.Howeverstrong a man may be, h<strong>is</strong> eyes burn, h<strong>is</strong> ears sing,and h<strong>is</strong> brain turns dizzy under the inffiction: sleepleas,appetiteless, spiritless, and halfspeechless, he canscarcely be said to live: at the end <strong>of</strong> the season, ifhe reaches it, looking at h<strong>is</strong> face you would pronouncehim to be in a "galloping consumption."Build or burn, then, <strong>was</strong> our dilemma. The only" chance <strong>of</strong> saving health-a soldier's all in all-wuto house ourselves.But there lay the difficulty.Let me tell you, sir, <strong>that</strong> it requires no little prudenceand determination <strong>for</strong> a subaltern to live uponh<strong>is</strong> pay:* setting aside the not unimportant. consideration<strong>that</strong> if in these regions one lives onlyto live within one's means, one <strong>is</strong> commonly likelyto be loved by the gods and to die young.Hemust have no expensive tastes; such as a hanker-• Thil appliea only to 8cinde and the dearer partl <strong>of</strong> the threePft'lideDeiea.

KEEPING OUT or DEBT. 91ing <strong>for</strong> neatness <strong>of</strong> house and furniture, or highideas <strong>of</strong> hospitality; he must have' no ambition tod<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>h himself as a sportsman, a lingu<strong>is</strong>t, atraveller, or a "good fellow;" he must rest contentin <strong>that</strong> happy obscurity, which we are told <strong>is</strong>asexcellent <strong>for</strong> man as <strong>for</strong> the ignoble part <strong>of</strong>creation.If he be a married man I defy him to doit, unless at least he can make up h<strong>is</strong> mind to see h<strong>is</strong>wife become a confirmed invalid, and h<strong>is</strong> childrenpining away to spectres <strong>for</strong> want <strong>of</strong> a cold climate.Even as a bachelor, to keep out <strong>of</strong> debt he must befavoured by circumstances as well as by nature. Nowwe were not.The regiment had been travellinghundreds <strong>of</strong> miles, and expected a journey <strong>of</strong> &l1many more with all the expensive consequences <strong>of</strong>carriage and marching mess-bills.* And yet wefound it necessary to expend two or three months'prospective pay upon brick and mortar.Had we applied to the financial department athome, the train <strong>of</strong> reasoning would have been­"That boy gets £20 a month: humph I 12 times20 make , 240: humph I Ah, it's always the waywith these fellows in India-"And the inevitable ergo... Expensive things, 88 the members <strong>of</strong> a mess have to pay <strong>for</strong> laue!and breakage.

92 SCENES IN SCINDE.,-"1 wont encourage h<strong>is</strong> extravagance."For, you know, Mr. Bull, many a papa who makesa liberal allowance to a son in one <strong>of</strong> H.M.'s regiments,would pooh-pooh at the idea <strong>of</strong> sending afarthing per annum to one in the Company's.servIce.The g<strong>is</strong>t <strong>of</strong> which <strong>is</strong> th<strong>is</strong> :-It might be desired<strong>that</strong> high authorities when <strong>is</strong>suing their edicts to theIndian army, would be generous enough -to be ·alittle more considerate, a trifle more just.You areled, sir, to suppose, though not told to believe, <strong>that</strong>we exult in debt: the effects <strong>of</strong> our extravagance areskilfully deployed into line be<strong>for</strong>e your eyes, whilstthe many unavoidable causes <strong>of</strong> our expenditure areas skilfully close columned and huddled up into onecorner <strong>of</strong> the rhetorical field.I own <strong>that</strong> rigid economy <strong>is</strong> not the virtue <strong>of</strong>Indians. But can you fairly expect it to be? Inth<strong>is</strong> country many things, horses <strong>for</strong> instance, arenecessaries; at home they would be luxuries.Thenthere <strong>is</strong> always some amount <strong>of</strong> recklessness in thepr<strong>of</strong>ession <strong>of</strong> arms.Men are separated from familyand friends, and made to feel <strong>that</strong> separation too,Letters, which during the first year <strong>of</strong> expatriationarrived regularly each mail, gradually dimin<strong>is</strong>h innumber, shrink in size,cease altogether. They know

THE UNJUST" FAREWELL ORDER." 98<strong>that</strong> when they return home their relations will thinkand find them de trap-the average heart cannotstand up against ten years thorough aeparation<strong>that</strong>their friends will have ceased to care <strong>for</strong> them,<strong>that</strong> their acquaintances will have clean <strong>for</strong>gottenthem. Ex<strong>is</strong>tence, too, in India <strong>is</strong> precarious: whoean tell how soon a fever or a bullet may send himto' the jackals? Conseqnently we are, perhaps, alittle over anxious to "live whilst we may."Such <strong>is</strong> our apology <strong>for</strong> want <strong>of</strong> thrift..But it <strong>is</strong> not unnecessary to instruct us, <strong>that</strong> aman who deprives h<strong>is</strong> servants <strong>of</strong> their wages to givechampagne tiffins to h<strong>is</strong> friends, <strong>is</strong> not acting likean <strong>of</strong>ficer or a gentleman; we are by no meansgrateful <strong>for</strong> such simple commentaries upon the code<strong>of</strong> honour, and, to speak plain truth, we are somewhatindignant to see <strong>that</strong> the in<strong>for</strong>mation <strong>is</strong> deemedin<strong>for</strong>mation by one usually so well in<strong>for</strong>med 88 <strong>is</strong>our in<strong>for</strong>mer.But what <strong>is</strong> the use <strong>of</strong> all th<strong>is</strong>? You, Mr. Bull,have old, long-cher<strong>is</strong>hed ideas <strong>of</strong> our extravagantstyle <strong>of</strong> life-the memories <strong>of</strong> the last centuryfloating in your head-and you see with delight thedaring hand outstretched in might to tear up 'theroot <strong>of</strong> the evil Bosh I Were he <strong>that</strong> chatteth withyou Lt.-Gen. Sir R. Burton, G.C.B., instead '<strong>of</strong>

94 SCENES IN SCINDE.being a small lieutenant, then might he have somehope <strong>of</strong> an occasional cheer from you, to enliven h<strong>is</strong>squabble with a brother veteran.Then might he,it <strong>is</strong> believed, have some little chance <strong>of</strong> winningt~ day, however doughty in the cacoethes <strong>of</strong>scribble,however skilful in the use <strong>of</strong> oxymoron or antithes<strong>is</strong>,however fond <strong>of</strong> the ad captandum, and however successfulin writing pointedly, not to the point, wellbut not w<strong>is</strong>ely, <strong>that</strong> same brother veteran may be.But now, sir, I feel myself over-matched-weight<strong>is</strong> against me-it <strong>is</strong> "no go."tilting at a windmill stron~Excuse the folly <strong>of</strong>in the breath <strong>of</strong> popularopinion and-let us order the camels.* * * *You had better mount your dromedary th<strong>is</strong> moming<strong>for</strong> the first time.You need not be afraid <strong>of</strong>approaching him, as he <strong>is</strong> a particularly quiet beast;only do not get into the habit <strong>of</strong> walking carelesslywithin reach <strong>of</strong> camels' tusks and hind legs.Thekick <strong>is</strong> an awful one, so <strong>is</strong> the bite: the brutes holdlike bull dogs, and with the purchase af<strong>for</strong>ded bytheir long pliable necks they can tw<strong>is</strong>t your arm oWin a minute.Be<strong>for</strong>e throwing your leg over the framework <strong>of</strong>wood, padded and covered with a thickly quiltedgaudy-coloured silk. cushion, acting saddle, shake

THE CAMEL RIDE. 95tIle bells <strong>that</strong> garn<strong>is</strong>h your animal's necklace <strong>of</strong>blue beads, a tal<strong>is</strong>man against the mal occhio, andgive him. a bit <strong>of</strong> b<strong>is</strong>cuit. If you startle him at firstwhen mounting him, he <strong>is</strong> very apt to get into ahabit <strong>of</strong> converting h<strong>is</strong> squatting into a standingposition, with a suddenness by no means pleasant.There, you are on now. Hold h<strong>is</strong> nose-stringlightly; give him h<strong>is</strong> head, and after once puttinghim in the right path, let him do what he pleases.My first ride <strong>was</strong> not such a pleasant one as yOUl'Swill be, partly my own fault <strong>for</strong> mounting a baggagecamel. After considerable difficulty in getting onthe roaring, yelling beast, it became palpably necessaryto draw my sword and prick h<strong>is</strong> nose eachtime it crept round diagreeably near my boot. Find..ing h<strong>is</strong> ef<strong>for</strong>ts to bite me unavailing, he changedtactics, and made a point <strong>of</strong> dashing under everylow thorn tree, as close to the trunk as possible, inthe hope <strong>of</strong> rubbing h<strong>is</strong> rider <strong>of</strong>f. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> exerc<strong>is</strong>e hewould vary by occasionally standing still <strong>for</strong> half anhour, in spite <strong>of</strong> all the persuasive argUUlents in theshape <strong>of</strong> heels, whip, and rapier, with which I pliedh<strong>is</strong> stubborn sides. Then he would rush <strong>for</strong>ward, 88if momentarily making up h<strong>is</strong> mind to be good.At last he settled upon the plan <strong>of</strong> ~ning away;"arched h<strong>is</strong> long neck till h<strong>is</strong> head <strong>was</strong> almost ia•

96 SCENES IN SCINDE.contact with mine, and in thiS position indulged ina canter, which felt exactly like the pace <strong>of</strong> a horsetaking a five-barred gate ev.ery second stride.Fortunately <strong>for</strong> me the road <strong>was</strong> perfectly level.Presently snap went the nose-string.My amiablemonture shook h<strong>is</strong> head once or twice, snorted alittle blood from h<strong>is</strong> nostrils, slackened h<strong>is</strong> speed,executed a demi-t101te, and turned deliberately towardthe nearest jungle.Seeing a swamp be<strong>for</strong>e us, and knowing <strong>that</strong> acertain "spill" <strong>was</strong> in prospect-these beasts alwaystumble down and <strong>of</strong>ten split their stomachs onslippery mud-I deliberated <strong>for</strong> a moment whether Ishould try to chop the fellow's head open, or jump 011h<strong>is</strong> back, r<strong>is</strong>king the consequences, or keep my seattill it became no longer tenable.And my mind lV88still in doubt when he released it by sliding two orthree yards through the slimy mire, and by fallingplump upon h<strong>is</strong> sounding side.I did not mount <strong>that</strong> animal again.Somehow or other the Arabs' superstition aboutthe camel <strong>is</strong>- not without a sure foundation]. they888ure you <strong>that</strong> no man <strong>was</strong> ever killed by a wifrom these tall beasts, whereas a little nag haa lostmany a life.Certainly I have seen some furious" rolls," and have myself been d<strong>is</strong>mounted about

THE CAHEL IN SCINDE. 97a dozen times, yet not even a triflingoccurred..accidentShould, however, your dromedary when trottinghigh at the rate <strong>of</strong> ten or eleven miles the hour,happen to plant h<strong>is</strong> foot upon the stump <strong>of</strong> a tree,or to catch in a bandycoot's hole, it might so be <strong>that</strong>after a flight <strong>of</strong> a few yards you would reach terrajirma with an impetus calculated to put the Arabs'proverb out <strong>of</strong> joint.Still remember there <strong>is</strong> aknack in falling, as in most other things.You maylet a corpse drop from a height <strong>of</strong> thirty feet withoutbreaking the smallest bone, and a drunken man,after tumbling from the gallery <strong>of</strong> a theatre, willr<strong>is</strong>e and perhaps walk quietly home.So, also, youmay roll <strong>of</strong>t' your camel with as little injury as a sack<strong>of</strong> wheat would incur, ifyou only have the presence<strong>of</strong> mind not to catalepse your members.Let everylimb be lax and bending: it'<strong>is</strong> by the strong musclesin a state <strong>of</strong> convulsive rigidity <strong>that</strong> compoundfractures are caused.The " Ship <strong>of</strong>.the Desert JJ <strong>is</strong> the reindeer <strong>of</strong> theScindians-an animal <strong>of</strong>many uses.They drink themilk: it tastes rather salt and thin at first, but thepalate soon becomes accustomed to it; they makebutter <strong>of</strong> it, and employ it in confectionary.Theflesh <strong>of</strong> the camel colt <strong>is</strong> considered a kind <strong>of</strong>VOL. I.

·98 SCENES IN SCINDB.religious meat: it <strong>is</strong> infinitely superior to horseflesh,and reminds one not a little <strong>of</strong> coarse veal.Thousands <strong>of</strong> Scindians live by breeding camels;in the d<strong>is</strong>tricts where tamar<strong>is</strong>k and mimosa abound,the country <strong>is</strong> covered with their straggling herds,and some tribes, the Jats, <strong>for</strong> instance, live by pract<strong>is</strong>ingfarriery, if I may so call it. There are aboutfifteen races peculiar to the province; the best,however, are imported. The small, stout, shaggyanimals-regular camel-ponies-come from Muskatand Mekran: the tall large white dromedaries fromJesulmere j the dark, short-legged, two-humpedbeast, the cart-horse <strong>of</strong> the species, from Persia andBokhara, Under the native princes th<strong>is</strong> branch <strong>of</strong>the import trade <strong>was</strong> much encouraged, and 501. <strong>was</strong>not an unusual price <strong>for</strong> a noted Sandni.~These animals cannot easily be taught to pull;t<strong>for</strong> carrying burdens, however, they are invaluable.They will travel <strong>for</strong> months together ifladen lightly,say up to two hundred and fifty pounds, if allowedsufficient time to <strong>for</strong>age <strong>for</strong> their scanty food in thelVoods,t and never halted, as well as never hurried on~ A ricling or blood-camel; a dromedary.t In the Bengal presidency they have been trained to draw guns, anddid excellent service in the N. W. parts <strong>of</strong> India, where the deep andI&Ildy roadl pun<strong>is</strong>bed tho artillery borsee and bullocks most severely.::: On long journeys, it <strong>is</strong> UIUal to give each camel a pound <strong>of</strong> barler

the line <strong>of</strong> march.GOUJAH. 99Our ruinous losses in comm<strong>is</strong>sariatcamel-flesh have mainly been occasioned byneglecting these precautions. To which may be .added our utter ignorance <strong>of</strong> the animal's many andvarious d<strong>is</strong>eases.On one occasion I saw a friendadmin<strong>is</strong>ter a bottle <strong>of</strong> Cognac to a favourite Sandni.by way <strong>of</strong> curing a stomach-ache. The dose did 80most effectually, <strong>for</strong> the dosed died, drunk as drunkcould be, half-an-hour afterwards.A well-trained dromedary's trot <strong>is</strong> by no meansd<strong>is</strong>agreeable, any other pace feels as if you wereriding two animals at once.* In th<strong>is</strong> province theyare never made to canter or gallop, as in Arabia andBeloch<strong>is</strong>tan.* * * *That half-deserted ruinous-looking village <strong>is</strong>per diem. The grain <strong>is</strong> reduced to flour, kneaded with water, and madeinto lumps, which are thrust down the brute's throat. The Pel"liana callit " Na,'IIXJ1,eA." When a very severe march <strong>is</strong> in prospect, they 10m.times add a little intoxicating hemp, mixed with clarified butter.• In a wild country, where a pocket-compass or a sextant <strong>is</strong> the onlyiuatrument a traveller can safely use, the camel acts admirably u a per_ambulator. The result <strong>of</strong> the many observations I made <strong>was</strong>, <strong>that</strong> theanimal when treading on level ground, not rough or stony, takes one .top,exactly equal to a yard, per second; <strong>that</strong> <strong>is</strong> to .y, 3600 yards, or twomiles and eighty yards per hour. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> calculation agrees preciJely withVolney's. Burnes estimates 3700 yards, when marching over 10ft audaandy soils. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> probably correct; but I doubt <strong>that</strong> a string <strong>of</strong> camelsgenerally moves so fast as 3833 yarda per hour, u in ODe part <strong>of</strong> hi. Tnvelahe computes them to do.

100 SCENES· IN SCINDE.Gonjah. It <strong>of</strong>fers an old mud mosque <strong>for</strong> the convenience<strong>of</strong> travellers, but as the place has been full<strong>of</strong> natives, and consequently, will be in the last state<strong>of</strong> filth, I have hadthe tents pitched under <strong>that</strong> coollookingfragrant mango-tope.* It also contains acelebrated Sayyid, a gentleman <strong>of</strong> the blood holy,very sacred and very unapproachable.You are ruminating upon an object which fedyour fancy a little, and startled your mind a trifle th<strong>is</strong>.moming's ride-a strange symbol <strong>of</strong> strange civil<strong>is</strong>ation-atime-honoured relic <strong>of</strong> antiquity, which,wonderful to say, maintains in your establ<strong>is</strong>hment(long may it do so I), much <strong>of</strong> its ancient state-Madam Britannia's"hieroglyphic state-machine"aud favourite three-legged monture-the gibbet. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>one had room to accommodate several, you may haveobserved; it <strong>was</strong> made <strong>for</strong> a number <strong>of</strong> Beloochbanditti, who, some years ago, cut a Parsee's throat inconsideration <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> brandy and pickled onions. Iown it has a peculiar appearance amidst these scenes,a look which suggests a how-tbe-deuce-did-youcome-here?phase <strong>of</strong> Inqu<strong>is</strong>itiveness, and a generalimpressiveness which <strong>is</strong> not easily rubbed out fromthe page <strong>of</strong> recollection.• Tope i. the Anglo-Indian name <strong>for</strong> a tuftmangoea.<strong>of</strong> treee, particululy

TATTAH.101CHAPTER VI.TATTAH AND ITS HOLY HILL.NUGUR TATTAH-the city, as it <strong>is</strong> called par eecelknee,<strong>is</strong> a place <strong>of</strong> many lions. For the convenience<strong>of</strong> sight-seeing we will deposit our Penates onthe banks <strong>of</strong> the bit <strong>of</strong> water which skirts the foot<strong>of</strong> the Mekli hills, about a mile south-east <strong>of</strong> thetown. We now stand seventy miles from Kurrachee,near the apex <strong>of</strong> the Delta, on the western bank <strong>of</strong>the Indus, out <strong>of</strong> the first Desert.The ancient capital <strong>of</strong> Lower Scinde <strong>is</strong> indeed fallenfrom its high estate. The population, once twohundred and eighty thousand, has dimin<strong>is</strong>hedto five thousand; its thirty miles circumference hasshrunk to ten; <strong>of</strong> its five thousand looms, whichproduced the shawls and silken stuffs* celebratedthroughout Central Asia, scarcely remains a dozen;* Generally silk and cotton mixed; sometimes silk and gold. Theyare called lwng, or walstclotbe, and are suppoeed to be the Z()ft(Z <strong>of</strong> the'!Periplus.

102 SOENES IN 80INDE.and <strong>of</strong> its four hundred colleges, not o~ <strong>is</strong> BOW jnex<strong>is</strong>tence. The Mosque <strong>of</strong> Aurungzeb, with itstowering walls and huge arches, still stands to ahowthe ancient munificence <strong>of</strong> the Mogul viceroys, butall around it, far and near, <strong>is</strong> a squalid congeries <strong>of</strong>ruined or half-ruined habitations.Some <strong>of</strong> th~streets are nearly blocked up by the masses <strong>of</strong>unbaked brick, which are allowed to moulder wherethey tumble, and in many quarters natural squareshave been <strong>for</strong>med by the simple process <strong>of</strong> a heap <strong>of</strong>houses sinking to the ground.Each inundationsweeps away part <strong>of</strong>. the suburbs exposed to itsviolence, and the r<strong>is</strong>ing places, such as Kurracheeand Hyderabad, every year draw <strong>of</strong>f a portion <strong>of</strong> thewretched-looking population.* * * *We might as well dine at the Travellers' Bungalowto-day.Not <strong>that</strong> the old Portuguese.." messman,'as he calls himself <strong>is</strong> likely to rival Verrey.But the building-the Company's old Factory*-ia acurious one, it contains a large court-yard and theupper story <strong>of</strong> rooms <strong>that</strong> looks in~the quadrangle* In A.D. 1758, Ghulam Shah, a prince <strong>of</strong> the Kalora dynasty, <strong>that</strong>then ruled the province, granted the Honourable East India Companypermiuion to establ<strong>is</strong>h a factory in hi. dominions, with a view to theeucoungement <strong>of</strong> trade between India and Scinde. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> commen:ialconnection <strong>was</strong> rudely broken <strong>of</strong>f by Sar&ru. Kha.u Kalon, in 1771.

TATTAB TOWN. 103<strong>is</strong> surrounded by a wooden gallery which gives thebuilding no small resemblance to an antiquatedBngl<strong>is</strong>h inn. The chambers are large and high;many <strong>of</strong> them are in a ruinous condition, with hugeholes in the threatening floors and ceilings. A longflight <strong>of</strong> steps leads to a flat ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> cement, whencewe may chance to see some amusing scenes. TheSci.ndians, Mr. Bull, 'sleep upon the ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong> theirhouaee, and use them <strong>for</strong> a rich variety <strong>of</strong> domesticpurposes.Look! there <strong>is</strong> a party. <strong>of</strong> young ladies enjoyintheir favourite game with the Kheno;* their headsarebare and their muslin chem<strong>is</strong>es are not <strong>of</strong> the mostdecorous cut; they run about, shout and push oneanother in their excitement, exactly like a bevy <strong>of</strong>Engl<strong>is</strong>h hoydens.A little beyond, a busy housewife <strong>is</strong> spreadingthe night's resting-place-a couch as unartificialas could be desired; being nothing but a fourleggedframe-work <strong>of</strong> wood, like your tent bedstead,with fine cords instead <strong>of</strong> tape, covered with theusual quilt.There you see a little' group, sitting at prayers upona rug: the "head <strong>of</strong> the house," <strong>that</strong> venerable oldgentleman with the long white beard, <strong>is</strong> teaching• The ball.

104 SCENBS IN SCINDE.h<strong>is</strong> children to chaunt the Koran. It <strong>is</strong> a very,devotional spectacle, and the voices <strong>of</strong> the juniorsare s<strong>of</strong>t and pleasing.You need not fear to d<strong>is</strong>tracttheir attention; not one <strong>of</strong> the party understandsmore than a parrot would do <strong>of</strong> what <strong>is</strong> being thusgravely repeated, so they can stare at us withoutd<strong>is</strong>turbing their minds.You look curiously at <strong>that</strong> whit<strong>is</strong>h object whiehcatches your eye in the deepening shades <strong>of</strong> eve•.That <strong>is</strong>' a Scindee per<strong>for</strong>ming h<strong>is</strong> ablutions i.pur<strong>is</strong>aim<strong>is</strong> ftaturali1Jus-a custom in these regions.We must leave our eyrie.I see a pair <strong>of</strong> fieryeyes fiercely glaring at our inquiring countenances.There <strong>is</strong> nothing th<strong>is</strong> people hate so much as to beoverlooked; it <strong>is</strong> considered an outrageous violation<strong>of</strong> the sanctity <strong>of</strong> their domestic castles: we mightas well humour them th<strong>is</strong> once, as it grows dark,and it <strong>is</strong> time to return to our tents.A word in your ear, Mr. Bull.If <strong>that</strong> little boywith the long hair down h<strong>is</strong> shoulders-you recollectremarking him when we entered the bungalow?­comes up to you, asking you if you want anything,give him, or pretend to give him, a touch <strong>of</strong> yourhorsewhip.He <strong>is</strong> touter-general <strong>for</strong> the Kanyar<strong>is</strong>or dancing-girls: as you are a married man, anda pater-familidB, with a character, I cannot allow

KULLIAN KOT. 105you a Nautch at a place so d<strong>is</strong>reputable asTattah <strong>is</strong>.* * * *The cool <strong>of</strong> the morning will be a good time <strong>for</strong>.v<strong>is</strong>iting Kullian Kot, a ruin about a mile and ahalf south <strong>of</strong> Tattah.We ride along the skirt <strong>of</strong>the Mekli hills a couple <strong>of</strong> miles or so, throughstubbles every stalk <strong>of</strong> which <strong>is</strong> as thick as an elderlygentleman's walking cane. The blithe "clock...clock" <strong>of</strong> the black partridge resounds from theneighbouring brakes; the tittara * r<strong>is</strong>e in coveysfrom the pathway; every now and then, a timidhare, scarcely bigger than a small tom...cat, flies fromour approach; or & fat jackal, returning frommaking a night <strong>of</strong> it, stands to look at us cunninglyand <strong>of</strong>ficiously, as if he were the spy <strong>of</strong> the animalcreation.. Kullian Kot <strong>was</strong> whilome a place <strong>of</strong> great fame.Our fellow-countrymen describe it as an immensecamp, said to be the work <strong>of</strong> Alexander the Great.The people have a tradition <strong>that</strong> it <strong>is</strong> the feat <strong>of</strong>fairy hands: its name <strong>is</strong> Sanscrit, t and its appearancedenotes <strong>that</strong> it <strong>was</strong> the erection <strong>of</strong> an age* Grey partridge.t " Fort Prosperous." Sir A. Burnes and Lieut. Wood incorrectlywrite and translate it K'Ullaln Kot, the" Large Fort." Its Moslem name<strong>was</strong> TogkltikalJa,d,.)'3

108 BOBBBS IN 8ClBDB.anterior to the general use <strong>of</strong> gunpowd8l'--theround towers, <strong>of</strong> mud, reveted with kiln-bumtbrick, which break the line <strong>of</strong> the outer curtain, are,·you see, within easy bow-shot <strong>of</strong> one another. Themcrinte contain. a vast terre pleifle <strong>of</strong> parallelogrammical<strong>for</strong>m, in obtaining earth <strong>for</strong> which thelarge tank below the ruins <strong>was</strong> probably excavated.Within the masses <strong>of</strong> masonry, many <strong>of</strong> which,shaken by time or earthquakes, hsre fallen int<strong>of</strong>antastic shapes resembling at a d<strong>is</strong>tance huge redrocks, there <strong>is</strong> Scindian desolation: a hard eurtaee<strong>of</strong> dry kahgil-the mixture <strong>of</strong> clay and choppedstraw used as plaster in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> the world--­thickly IOwn with bits <strong>of</strong> vitrified brick and tile, abroken wall or two, and a domed tomb convertedby the pigeons into a dovecot:know <strong>that</strong> man has been there.by these things weRiding along the crest <strong>of</strong> the hill, towards ourtents, we pass over the spot where some 'unhappyRegiments* were stationed a few years ago. Everyscrap <strong>of</strong> building has d<strong>is</strong>appeared: in Lower Scindeaueh materials, especially wood, are too precious to• Tho 22d and 26th Regimenta, Bo, N. L, were stationed at Tattaiawhen wo firat occupied the country. After a few months, they were qultedilorganiaod, and nearly deltroyed, by the fatal miasma <strong>of</strong> the plainLOne <strong>of</strong> theae un<strong>for</strong>tunate COrpl had 1576 cues tnated in hoePitalbetween August and January, in tho s.me year. .

continue long unappropriated.THB IIEKLI HILL. 107But we can tracethe foundations <strong>of</strong> the houses, and the ditches <strong>that</strong>surrounded them; probably they will last out thecentury.There <strong>is</strong> so little rain, <strong>that</strong> it'takes manya season to obliterate deep marks from the hard,gravelly soil.And now <strong>for</strong> the great lion <strong>of</strong> Tattah.The "cities <strong>of</strong> the dead," I may observe, are theonly populous places in Young Egypt. Many <strong>of</strong>the principal settlements must contain theirhundreds <strong>of</strong> thousands. The reason <strong>is</strong>, <strong>that</strong> thepeople, being divided into clans, are fond <strong>of</strong>,bmying their relations together, as thereby thedeparted souls have the benefit <strong>of</strong> "spiritual confabulation,"and the survivors have no difficulty t<strong>of</strong>ind out the grave over which they w<strong>is</strong>h to per<strong>for</strong>msuch religious exerc<strong>is</strong>es as chaunting the Koran orreciting supererogatory prayers.But th<strong>is</strong> spot, 88 the first coup d'mil must eonvinceyou, <strong>is</strong> one <strong>of</strong> peculiar sanctity.Jam Tamachi-about whom presently-by order<strong>of</strong> a d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hedsaint, built a mosque upon the hills, called themMekli,* and; directed <strong>that</strong> from <strong>that</strong> time <strong>for</strong>wardth<strong>is</strong> should be the holy locale <strong>of</strong> sepulture, in• Properly written MaJdcaJ,i, "Mecea-like ;" in high degree <strong>of</strong> localvirtue.

lQ8 SCENES IN SCINDE.supersession <strong>of</strong> Pir Puttah on the Bhagar Creek,<strong>for</strong>merly the pet Pere la Cha<strong>is</strong>e <strong>of</strong> defunct Scindians,Presently another d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hed saint, MiyanMaluk, d<strong>is</strong>covered by the following peculiar test, <strong>that</strong>the Mekli hills had, in the olden time, been honouredby the revered presence <strong>of</strong> Hasan and H118&in, thegrandsons <strong>of</strong> Mohammed. An ignorant goatherd<strong>was</strong> in the habit <strong>of</strong> driring h<strong>is</strong> flock over the rocks,and he observed, every day with increasing aston<strong>is</strong>hment,<strong>that</strong> the animals studiously avoided plantingho<strong>of</strong> upon a certain place. The next thing in dueorder <strong>was</strong> a v<strong>is</strong>ion which the seer did not quiteunderstand, but which when communicated by himto two learned and pious gentlemen, caused them toper<strong>for</strong>m their or<strong>is</strong>ons with such fervour, <strong>that</strong> neitherthey nor others could question the preternaturalnature and origin <strong>of</strong> the "unction." They markedout the spot with stones; a governor <strong>of</strong> Tattah walledit round, another built a grand .dome over it, andthusit gradually rose to the dizziest height <strong>of</strong> sanctity.Great men hastened to be buried on the Meklihills; saints and santons to the number <strong>of</strong> threethousand*-seventy-four <strong>of</strong> them immortal names in* It <strong>is</strong> calculated <strong>that</strong> th<strong>is</strong> burial-ground contains, in its six squaremil.es, not leu than a million <strong>of</strong> tombs. In Moslem countries, ancientgravel are not re-opened, to admit fresh comers,

RUINS. 109Scindian story, but very uninteresting ones to you,Mr. Bull-there depositing their venerable' clay,increased its value as a cemetery to a prodigiousestent,Like one Kevin who obtained from Heaven<strong>that</strong> all buried within the compass <strong>of</strong> the SevenChurches shall be saved on the day <strong>of</strong> judgment,their Moslem holinesses got perm<strong>is</strong>sion to carry <strong>of</strong>fwhen they r<strong>is</strong>e again, the bit <strong>of</strong> hill bodily, contentsand all, to be deposited in the courts <strong>of</strong> Parad<strong>is</strong>e.No wonder <strong>that</strong> it <strong>was</strong> and <strong>is</strong> considered a bI:Qwy tobe inhumed in such a locality j no wonder th*.pIOplewere and are made to pay <strong>for</strong> it I. From a d<strong>is</strong>tance the effect <strong>of</strong> the scene <strong>is</strong> imposing.The summit <strong>of</strong> the rocky ridge <strong>that</strong> looks towardsthe city <strong>of</strong> Tattah <strong>is</strong> crowned by an immenseEedgah*-a long wall with a low flight <strong>of</strong> stepsleading to the central niche where the preacherstands, and tall slender minarets <strong>of</strong> elegant <strong>for</strong>mspringing from either extremity.Behind it <strong>is</strong> aninfinite variety <strong>of</strong> mausolea and sepulchres, manyreduced to ruins by the earthquake's shock, manycrumbling to decay beneath the touch <strong>of</strong> time, a fewand but very few <strong>preserved</strong> by the pious hands <strong>of</strong>descendants and d<strong>is</strong>ciples.Vaulted domes, arches,* The name given to a place <strong>of</strong> wonhip, where public prayen arerecited on the two great festivals, called the Bed.

110 8CENB8 Ilf SCINDE.and towers j porticos, gateways, and vast coloDuadea,me in apparently endless succession above sbapeleamounds <strong>of</strong> ruins, whose <strong>for</strong>ms no ivy invests with itltgreen winding sheet,-heaps <strong>of</strong> stone naked, de.olate,and unaltered, 88 on the day when they sank toearth; here and there a tuft <strong>of</strong> parched up grass anda thorny tree bowed by the winds and bare <strong>of</strong> leavea,terring to communicate additional desolation to thedeeolate spectacle.Many<strong>of</strong> the edifices-the tombs<strong>of</strong> ebieftaina and sayyida-must have beenthelabour fill years and years. In Borne the cupola i.IU1T01U1ded by a ring <strong>of</strong> smaller domes with a singleor a double colonnade, enclosing a gallery and plat­Corm, broken by pointed arches in each <strong>of</strong> the fourfronts; others are girt by l<strong>of</strong>ty stone walls, <strong>for</strong>mingsquare court-yards, with entrance gates leading tothe different doorways. Some cons<strong>is</strong>t <strong>of</strong> heavymarble canopies supported by fantastic columns, andsheltering a line <strong>of</strong> parallel tombstones; and manyare built <strong>of</strong> coloured and glazedDutch tile andbrick,* with more the appearance <strong>of</strong> pleasure-houses• Which, by-the-by, might rival thOle <strong>of</strong> old Rome. No chiJelledRone could have a sbarper edge, or a more a.ccurate <strong>for</strong>m. So carefully i.0Ieh brick mixed and burned,. <strong>that</strong> it riDgl u if <strong>of</strong> metal, and breabalmOit u clean u glan. When atained and glazed, tbe,. look likeenamel: nothing can be richer than the appearance <strong>of</strong> the iDscriptiom, inJarae white letten upon a dark purple gronnd. They were, probably,

RUINS.IIIthan mansions <strong>of</strong> the dead, adding a singularity tothe general aspect <strong>of</strong> monotonous melancholy.Whilst upon all pours down the gay radiance <strong>of</strong> anEastern sun, and the azure reflection <strong>of</strong> a cloudlesssky, contrasting its hues <strong>of</strong> undying brightness withthe transitory memorials <strong>of</strong> earthly splendour, tritelyyet how impressively.We pass over the hill. Every now and then somestrolling fakir, grim as the ruins amidst which hestalks, frowns at the intrusion <strong>of</strong> the stranger) or apariah dog barks 88 we approach, and then fliesfrightened by the echoed Bound <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> own voice.Ifwe enter a mausoleum, the no<strong>is</strong>e <strong>of</strong> our footstepsreturned by the hollow ground, d<strong>is</strong>turbs the hundredtenants <strong>of</strong> the porticos, the niches, and the projections<strong>of</strong> the domes.A closer inspection <strong>is</strong> by no means favourable tothe view. There <strong>is</strong> a satiating minuteness in thedetails <strong>of</strong> decoration with which the tombs arecovered j in the largest and most magnificent, everystone <strong>of</strong> the edifice itself its walls and its gates, <strong>is</strong>elaborately carved in relief. Your eye rejects thepr<strong>of</strong>useness <strong>of</strong> square and circle, spiral and curve,diamond and scroll-work, flowers, border-patternmade by Persian bricklayen, who are celebrated throughout the East lortheir akin in th<strong>is</strong> craft.

112 SCENES IN 8CINDE.and quotations from the Koran, in cherecters whosesole beauty <strong>is</strong> illegibility. In vain you look <strong>for</strong> 8straight line in any building; the architects werenot BUfficiently skilful to succeed in the simplicities<strong>of</strong> art.As 8 late traveller justly observes, the effect<strong>of</strong> the tout ensemble <strong>is</strong> gaudy, and there <strong>is</strong> <strong>that</strong>(I appearance <strong>of</strong> tinsel tawdriness which results frominjudicious over-ornament."•In these countries very little <strong>of</strong> "the h<strong>is</strong>tory <strong>of</strong>these people <strong>is</strong> to be learned from their sepulchres,"and the Moslems want the mania <strong>of</strong> epitaph andinscription whichas <strong>of</strong>ten render our Chr<strong>is</strong>tianmonuments the means <strong>of</strong> mirth as <strong>of</strong> melancholy.Here the date <strong>of</strong> the " debt having been duly paid,"sometimes 8turban or a name, and rarely a venefrom Holy Writ, or a Persian couplet, are the scantyscraps <strong>of</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mation concerning the venerabledefunct af<strong>for</strong>ded to the anxious inquirer.That longtombstone <strong>of</strong> white alabaster under the bold cupolalined with blueand varn<strong>is</strong>hed tiles painted withflowers and arabesques so as to resemble the richestporcelain, <strong>is</strong> an exception to the general dulness andbears rather a pretty idea:" Weeping thou didst enter th<strong>is</strong> world <strong>of</strong> woe,Smiling thou departedst to <strong>that</strong> land <strong>of</strong>joy ! .,.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the mausoleum <strong>of</strong> a sayyid who, wonderful•

SAINTS. 118to relate, <strong>is</strong> said to have been a cazee-a judge-andyet an honest man.He died in the odour <strong>of</strong> sanctity,literally as well as figuratively, amidstan overpoweringaroma <strong>of</strong> musk from the apotheeee <strong>of</strong>Parad<strong>is</strong>e.If you have any little pain flying aboutyou, Mr. Bull, such as a twinge in the side or a• •slight abrasure <strong>of</strong> the skin, now <strong>is</strong> your time-rub itagainst the alabaster, with faith, mind, and you willassuredly recover.You see one <strong>of</strong> the great advantages<strong>of</strong> having holy places close at hand; wherehospitals and surgeries do not abound, as here, they"are quite impayable,.You may w<strong>is</strong>h to know what supernatural andpreternatural powers are attributed to the saints <strong>of</strong>Scinde.I <strong>of</strong>fer you a reBume <strong>of</strong> the miracles whichmost commonly edify the mind and confirm thebelief <strong>of</strong> the Faithful.Causing the birth <strong>of</strong> children, especially in caseswhen the ages <strong>of</strong> the parents render prolificity aphysical impossibility.Also on occasions <strong>of</strong>ingratitudebeing shown by such parents, obtaining fromHeaven <strong>that</strong> the blessing <strong>of</strong> <strong>is</strong>sue may be summarilywithdrawn from them.Curing all kinds <strong>of</strong> d<strong>is</strong>eases and complaints, structural,organic, and ~what not?The modu« medendi <strong>is</strong>,generally, the admin<strong>is</strong>tering <strong>of</strong> a drop <strong>of</strong> water to/

114 SCENES IN SClNDE.Ithe patient-hydropathy in embryo you observe; Onpassing the hand over the part affected-a rode<strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> animal magnet<strong>is</strong>m.The maladies are <strong>of</strong>the class upon which the hydropath<strong>is</strong>t and themesmer<strong>is</strong>t love to exerc<strong>is</strong>e their natural magic,such as deafness, , dumbness, blindness, hysteriaand nervous affections; but failures are common,and eueeess must, I fear, be pronounced rare andunsat<strong>is</strong>factory.Underthe third head may be ranked a vast variety<strong>of</strong> extraordinary feats, such as saving shipwreckedmariners or lost travellers, when invoked by them;appearing in person at a d<strong>is</strong>tance to protect a friendagainst unseen danger; changing females to males,seniors to juveniles, sots to scholars, sinners to saints,and infidels to Islam; saving a person'8life bydirecting the stroke <strong>of</strong> death to another quarter;exerc<strong>is</strong>ing dominion over birds, beasts, and f<strong>is</strong>hes;causing youths' beards to grow; fasting <strong>for</strong> an unconscionabletime;Iiringwithout drink or sleep; wateringa wholecaravan with the contents <strong>of</strong> a single pipkin;ordering the wild trees <strong>of</strong> the <strong>for</strong>est to produce honeyand clarified butter; restoring ex<strong>is</strong>tence to the dead;putting to flight the Fiend and h<strong>is</strong> em<strong>is</strong>saries; intuitivelyknowing men's minds and secret thoughts;compelling inanimate objects to act as though .they

:MIRACLES• 115.had vitality and volition; breakingthrough walls anddoors in spite <strong>of</strong> chains and fetters; v<strong>is</strong>iting Hell <strong>for</strong>the purpose <strong>of</strong> saving one <strong>of</strong> its victims, and flying·bodily up to Heaven.Briefly. to trace the career <strong>of</strong> a single miracle.boat sails, we suppose, from Kurrachee to Bombay.A~ut the Gulf<strong>of</strong>Cutch,-you recollect the Canthi <strong>of</strong>.Ptolemy1-a hurricane obliges the crew to put back.During the violence <strong>of</strong> the storm, they were prayingmuch more lustily than they were working, and beingnatives <strong>of</strong> the same village, .. they all implored the aid<strong>of</strong> one Pir,* the live patron saint <strong>of</strong> the place.Well, they were saved. In due time, when theyreturn to their families, and talk. over the affair withtheir friends, feeling <strong>that</strong> the adventure in its simpleshape <strong>is</strong> an ordinary and uninteresting one, theybegin, consciously or unconsciously, to make it morepresentable by the addition <strong>of</strong> embroidery and a fewornaments.The head liar <strong>of</strong> the party,-there <strong>is</strong>one <strong>of</strong> course,-swears by the beard <strong>of</strong> the Prophet,<strong>that</strong>, as he ejaculated "Save me, Miyan Mitho I" t,the <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> the holy man rose be<strong>for</strong>e h<strong>is</strong> eyes, biddinghim be <strong>of</strong> good cheer, <strong>for</strong> <strong>that</strong> assuredly noharm should come to him.AThe rest <strong>of</strong> the crew* Pir,-a eaint, a man <strong>of</strong> God.t "Reverend Mr. Sweet,"--a plcbman, but a very celebrated name inthe Valley <strong>of</strong> the Indus.

116 SCENES IN SCINDE.either believe the invention, or w<strong>is</strong>ely pretend to doso, or fool<strong>is</strong>hly lose reputation, and subject themselvesto be dubbed " Athe<strong>is</strong>ts" by contradicting it.The saint, on the other hand, when consulted, <strong>is</strong> sureto declare, <strong>that</strong>, the moment he heard a sorrowfulvoice calling upon h<strong>is</strong> name from afar, he threwh<strong>is</strong> spirit in the direction <strong>of</strong> the sound; perhaps,also he will condescend to accept a little presentor two.A fair bas<strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong> carrying weight <strong>is</strong> now laid, andthe superstructure mayor may not become gigantic.Iffavoured by circumstance, the young miracle growsapace in strength and station. After a few yearscareful nurture and consequent development, itchanges to adult <strong>for</strong>m. The ship sank to the bottom<strong>of</strong> the sea, whence the Pir ra<strong>is</strong>ed it with h<strong>is</strong> potenthand. Then it blooms through a glorious manhood<strong>of</strong> celebrity, and in green old age looks<strong>for</strong>ward to being embalmed in the leaves <strong>of</strong> somePersian <strong>book</strong> <strong>for</strong> the instruction and edification<strong>of</strong> posterity.By th<strong>is</strong> time you must be deadly tired <strong>of</strong> saints,and their per<strong>for</strong>mances, Mr. Bull, especially as you .are one <strong>of</strong> those sturdy-minded Northems, who donot require everything to be"-- ocul<strong>is</strong> 8ubjecta fidelibus,"

THE SUFIS. 117be<strong>for</strong>e it can take its seat in the penetralia <strong>of</strong> yourreason and belief.Be<strong>for</strong>e we leave the saints, Imust, however, with your perm<strong>is</strong>sion translate <strong>that</strong>~ short ode which some poetic hand has inscribed uponone <strong>of</strong> the walls in honour <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> Murshid, or spiritualteacher.It <strong>is</strong>, I should in<strong>for</strong>m you, the production<strong>of</strong> a Sufi, a tribe <strong>of</strong> mystic devotees who hold tenetssomewhat similar to the Gnostics <strong>of</strong> your faith inearly days, and it teems with the commonplaces<strong>of</strong> their poetry, the negative entity <strong>of</strong> the world<strong>of</strong> matter, the positive ex<strong>is</strong>tence <strong>of</strong> the humansoul as a particle <strong>of</strong> the Eternal Spirit, enjoyment<strong>of</strong> the illusions <strong>of</strong> mundane ex<strong>is</strong>tence, anddevotion to earthly, the imperfect type <strong>of</strong> heavenlyLove,I.They· deem the world a lovely dream,That floats be<strong>for</strong>e man's wakeful eyes,A dream <strong>of</strong> phantom weal and woe,Unreal smiles, illusive sighs.II.They question not H<strong>is</strong> will or whyHe placed them in th<strong>is</strong> passing scene,That brings them from those blessed lands,Thro' Memory's m<strong>is</strong>t still dimly seen.* The third person plural in Penian <strong>is</strong> politely used <strong>for</strong> the singular­" they" <strong>for</strong> " he." I have retained the Oriental idiom, the present <strong>for</strong> the

118 SCENES IN 8CINDE.m,By them a thought, a sigh, a tear,In lonely meditation shed,Are held far holier acts <strong>of</strong> prayerThen bended knee or bowed head.IV.Their Musjid's* ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>is</strong> Heaven's vault,Its walle th' horizon's ample pale,Its floor fair nature's vast expanseOf stream and sea, <strong>of</strong>hill and dale.v.On flowery meads, in vocal glades,Where tuneful choirs sing hYmnS<strong>of</strong> pra<strong>is</strong>e,'Neath perfumed shrubs, near bubbling rills,They love to spend their similar days.VI.Their lips shrink not with Zahid'st fear,To taste the bright wine's bubbling k<strong>is</strong>s,Nor shun their ears the cithem's songThat brims their souls with happiness.VB.Their eyes may rest on woman's face­On youth and beauty's <strong>for</strong>m divine,When parted sparks <strong>of</strong> heavenly light,In pure and clear reflection shine.put: the reader, if there be such & person, may coDiider the Iinea ..exposition <strong>of</strong> the tenets <strong>of</strong> the sect as well as tho eulogy <strong>of</strong> an individual.* MUljid-a mosque.t The Zabid i. an ucetic to whom wine and musie are abominatioDa.•

HINDOOPILGRDU.GES.119VIII.With them Love knows no carnal joys,No sensual sweets, no low desire;They nurse its bright and holy flameAs Guebres feed their perfumed fire.IX.Their only good, good. done to man;To harm mankind, their only ill­All other good and ill they holdThe wild caprice <strong>of</strong> mortal will.x.Life <strong>is</strong> to them the arch <strong>that</strong> spansThat dark abysm-Eternity;They build not on its narrow way,But tread it, Allah, seeking Thee.* * * *Turning tent-wards, we come upon another veneratedlocality, a walled inclosure, surrounded by l<strong>of</strong>tyPeepul* trees. During th<strong>is</strong> morning's ride, Iremarked to you some places <strong>of</strong> Hindu pilgrimages,and certain upright stones stained withvermilion and decked with huge garlands <strong>of</strong> witheredflowers upon the margin <strong>of</strong> a small deep tank, girtround by grottos and caverns nature-cut, in themass <strong>of</strong> honeycombed limestone, near Kullian Kot..Here, again, we have traces <strong>of</strong> the same worship as• The PicuB religioBa, a u.cred tree amongst Hindoos.

120 SCENES IN SCINDB.<strong>that</strong> recent attempt at delineating a lady <strong>of</strong> maseulinehabits mounted upon a peculiar breed <strong>of</strong> tigerand lion.The personage depicted <strong>is</strong> Singhuvani,­the Rider <strong>of</strong> the Lion,*-a local incarnation <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong>multinomial goddess, Devi, Durga, Parwati, or, as weaUegor<strong>is</strong>e her, Aetiv&Vutue. Ifyou take the troubleto look into lI00r's Pantheon, or any other popularwork npon the subject <strong>of</strong> Hindu<strong>is</strong>m, you will manelhoW' she earned so respectable a title in Europe,A('tiTe'lciousness appearing to be the general('handel" llythology assigns to her.tYou look towards me <strong>for</strong> some explanation <strong>of</strong>these upright ston~ daubed with red..lIr. Bo1l, as.. n.. a.t." RDt.s kMw ........ aM pc-J.... fill ......~ ~ -...,..,..~=s~*'~aIDi 1Ia:IIIR." a.crti~wi.""'''.~~..",... ri6J.""'''''.'''~~ffiz'- »~~~.~"h.t"Wy...~ &S!'-_tL.al~""lt.~~~~~~~"'"r:il. _ ~ ~~ IN> ~br.n.t...'NaIt1 ..t ~ y lbA~ r .....mtl~ .........r'!fPWMU"'~Q("~~ * Ibr&m- ... DtaW~ia'­~..-.~Ili\.~~mll.Dntz..1Ilti:uIL: ........ biebl ia rAM...~ lit ~: f6Inr- ~ mIIIbf,. • Stmt....aa.....~..~.... ~.. t:iht ~ Jit:H:N:-3nJ p:wz..t",~~ Jil~ Sii~.r~~~~:DtD ___ ~~:$.~..l.... ~Iiumm:~ T.___~*,... iIi.t.t~.If........~:m,"DPQr' \Ill. ~,.._~ :.tt !:t« ~r~ ~ ...~ lIii8_J~....~ua.\'It-" __ \NIU~ ~~::--:tlNU~ ~ ~ ~... ~tt...h.. :a- 'at :ala. :a. 'lIIr_lQK':".l. ...un. .IlL .. eJi:btl- .lij~

IBLAlI IN BOINDE. 121you may chance to repeat my conversation at home,I must place the seal <strong>of</strong> silence upon my lips, much88 I regret so to do. But ifyou are not thoroughlytired <strong>of</strong> the article Faith, I can read you a lesson uponcertain peculiarities observable in th<strong>is</strong> comer <strong>of</strong> theworld, which may set you thinking awhile.Islam, the religion promulgated by Mohammed,w~, in h<strong>is</strong> day, sufficiently pure de<strong>is</strong>m; the EternalBeing <strong>is</strong> as little anthropomorph<strong>is</strong>ed as could beexpected, taking into consideration. the difficulty <strong>of</strong>making the idea <strong>of</strong> one intelligible to a barbarousrace. The faith conceived, .. born, and bred amongstthe rugged hills trodden byrthe sons <strong>of</strong> the WildMan, <strong>for</strong>med a point de reunion round which allthe scattered and hostile tribes collected.For awhile the human stream stood gathering bulk;presently, chafed to fury by intestine commotions,it overflowed its margin, and poured down likea desolating torrent upon the lands which layaround it.But when the excitement <strong>of</strong> invasion and battle,massacre and plunder had passed away, the heterogeneousmass <strong>of</strong> converts <strong>for</strong>cibly incorporated withthe original stock <strong>of</strong> the Faithful, found time andopportunity to shuffle a few <strong>of</strong> their old tenets and'YOL. LG

122 SCENES· IN SOINDLpredileetiOD8 into the system <strong>of</strong> monothe<strong>is</strong>m thus<strong>for</strong>cibly thrust upon them.The banks <strong>of</strong> the Indus were, in remote ages, thebot-bed <strong>of</strong> Hindooiam; Moultan <strong>was</strong> its stroug-hold.and Scinde <strong>was</strong> as abundant in B~ aa itW88 in the Brahman<strong>is</strong>m <strong>that</strong> succeeded it. TheDelta bad holy places in numbers, and marks <strong>of</strong> theold religion still extend far westward <strong>of</strong> the moontains<strong>that</strong> separate us from the deserts <strong>of</strong> 1Iekran.How, or at what time, the descendants <strong>of</strong> the conqueringADba,made thesevenerated spots their own,h<strong>is</strong>tory, being written by themselves, <strong>of</strong> C01Il'8e _yanot. Probably they took tlle first opportunity tobmy aome _body in any locality whichthey determined to appropriate j and then, in spiie<strong>of</strong>the pagans. connected tlle site in question withtheir own faith. One thing you may obaene:­almost every celebrated place in Scinde still d<strong>is</strong>playad<strong>is</strong>tinct signa <strong>of</strong> original Hindoo<strong>is</strong>m; moreorer~theworshippers <strong>of</strong> Brahma have Sanaerit names <strong>for</strong> th<strong>is</strong>holy ineobe <strong>of</strong> the principal mUllOlea, and thePolythe<strong>is</strong>t, as weD. as the diac:iple <strong>of</strong> Mohammed,continues to atteDd the fairs and pilgrimages. whichperiodically occur at the tombs, and othez aeredlocalities.

ISLAM IN 8CINDE. 128And most amusing to an indifferent observer arethe zeal and violence with which the pr<strong>of</strong>essors <strong>of</strong>the two rival creeds advance and refute their claimsand right <strong>of</strong> property to the d<strong>is</strong>puted person <strong>of</strong> somenoted devotee.

114 SCENES IN SCINDB.I TCHAPTER VII.THE CA.PTURE OF TATTAH IN THE OLDEN TIllE.<strong>is</strong> related by the chronicles <strong>of</strong> antiquity, <strong>that</strong> indays gone by, and ages <strong>that</strong> have long 1Ied, Scinde<strong>was</strong> a most lovely land situated in a delightfulclimatea fertile plain traversed by the beneficentMehran,*lrith large, flour<strong>is</strong>hing, and populous cities;orchards producing every kind <strong>of</strong> tree and froi~ aDdgardens <strong>that</strong> were the reftection <strong>of</strong> hem,t and theenvy <strong>of</strong> the Seven Heavens.It 1fU governed by.powerful monarch who had mighty hosts and impregnable<strong>for</strong>ts, whose CODnsellon Yere renowned <strong>for</strong>craft, and whose commanders were ee1ebrated <strong>for</strong>eonduet,.And the boundaries <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> domjniona aDdpIOrin~ extended as ru as Kanoj and Cashmere,upon whose south-western frontier one or the Bahiatplanted ITo tolrering cypre:nrs.• n.. (b -cal aM ,.Iiral_ ... Fads Ia••• ~ lair b .a""~=. ds "ph.. A ftIe.& Pan.tiIr _ ..... __ ia A..... ~.eS\c., •WI! -"b lal ( ...--..: n. W .."hfIls.:- II

OLDEN SCINDE. 125During the caliphat <strong>of</strong> the Chief <strong>of</strong> True Believers,Umar the son <strong>of</strong> Khattab, it <strong>was</strong> resolved, with theperm<strong>is</strong>sion <strong>of</strong> Allah, to subject the sinners <strong>of</strong> Scindeto the scimitar <strong>of</strong> certain sturdy saints militant.But it so happened <strong>that</strong> the captain <strong>of</strong> the. Moslemarmament, being opposed by a Brahman general, <strong>was</strong>killed, and, after much slaughter, h<strong>is</strong> troops wered<strong>is</strong>comfited, many were slain, and the rest weremade pr<strong>is</strong>oners.Again, at the time when great Usman-the Lord'sapproval be upon him l-sat upon the seat <strong>of</strong> power,it <strong>was</strong> ordered <strong>that</strong> one Hakim, a confidential agent,should be sent to Scinde to spy out and d<strong>is</strong>cover thestate <strong>of</strong> affairs; but the reporter caused the expedi­~on to be abandoned by ..falsely * saying <strong>that</strong> thewater. <strong>was</strong> black, the fruit sour and po<strong>is</strong>onous, theground stony, and the earth saline. When thecaliph asked him what he thought <strong>of</strong> the inhabitants,he replied, "they are faithless."Then during the rule <strong>of</strong> Ali-may h<strong>is</strong> name beblessed I-a <strong>for</strong>ce passed over from Mekran, and <strong>was</strong>opposed by a large army <strong>of</strong> the hill men; but theMoslem host, calling on the Most High, began animpetuous attack, and the no<strong>is</strong>e <strong>of</strong> the shouts terrified* That Hakim most have been a mOlt d<strong>is</strong>cerning traveller; h<strong>is</strong> briefaccount <strong>of</strong> Scinde and the Scindians <strong>is</strong> a perfect specimen <strong>of</strong> pregnant truth.

126 SCENES IN 8OINDE.the enemy, who cried <strong>for</strong> quarter whilst they fled,FrQm <strong>that</strong> time, on occasions <strong>of</strong> conflict, the Moslem" Allahu I" <strong>is</strong> heard amongst those mountains. Butwhen the news <strong>of</strong> the caliph's death arrived furtheradvance <strong>was</strong> stopped.. Now the land <strong>of</strong> Serandip*<strong>is</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Ruby Islands;from th<strong>is</strong> had been Bent some Abyssinian slave gir1l,with many valuable jewels and presents <strong>for</strong> the highand mighty Emperor, Abdel Malik the Ommiade,and h<strong>is</strong> deputx Hajjaj, Lieutenant <strong>of</strong> Mesopotatiria.By chance the eight boats <strong>that</strong> conveyed them were.driven by a storm into one <strong>of</strong> the ports <strong>of</strong> Scindeon the sea <strong>of</strong> Oman, and the robbers <strong>of</strong> the placeseized them .88 plunder. .When the agents <strong>of</strong> theKing <strong>of</strong> Serandip represented ~hatthe propertybelonged to the caliph, they said, "if your tale betrue, pay a ransom and procure release I"In <strong>that</strong> assemblage were certain women in thepurity <strong>of</strong> Islam, who had intended per<strong>for</strong>ming thepilgrimage to Mecca, and v<strong>is</strong>iting the capital <strong>of</strong> thecaliph.One <strong>of</strong> these seeing herself a captive in thehands <strong>of</strong> the uncircumc<strong>is</strong>ed, ra<strong>is</strong>ed her hands toheaven and cried out thrice, with a loud voice, tt Hearus, oh Hajjaj I"<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> intelligence being conveyed to Hajjaj, when• Ceylon. ...

THE ARABS ATTACK BOJNDE. 127he heard <strong>that</strong> the woman hadcomplained thrice, usinghie name, he' arose from h<strong>is</strong> seat, unsheathed h<strong>is</strong>sword,and replied, three times, "Labbayk, I attendthee I". Umar bin Abdullah said to Hajjaj, '~Commit th<strong>is</strong>momentous business to me j I will proceed to EI Sindand El Hind."*. But, the Lieutenant replied, "Ihave consulted the astrologers, and they report <strong>that</strong>the period has arrived <strong>for</strong> the setting ·<strong>of</strong> the star <strong>of</strong>Unbelief, and <strong>for</strong> the bright dawning <strong>of</strong>true Religionin those benighted lands; in short, <strong>that</strong> EI Sind andE1 Hind will fall to the hand <strong>of</strong> my s<strong>is</strong>ters son,Mohammed bin Kasim."In the course <strong>of</strong> days, Abdel Malik, the potentmonarch, departed to h<strong>is</strong> throne in parad<strong>is</strong>e, and h<strong>is</strong>IOD Walid became the Lord's Shadow upon earth inh<strong>is</strong> stead. When h<strong>is</strong> power <strong>was</strong> settled on a firmbas<strong>is</strong>, Hajjaj urged him to renew the war with theinfidels, <strong>for</strong> the purpose <strong>of</strong> releasing the Moslemeaptives and <strong>of</strong> pun<strong>is</strong>hing the Hindoo transgressors.80 the new Caliph <strong>is</strong>sued all necessary orders <strong>for</strong> thepreparation and the equipment <strong>of</strong> a <strong>for</strong>ce from thepublic treasury.In one month <strong>was</strong> collected an army <strong>of</strong> 15,000men, 6000 <strong>of</strong> whom were horse, 6000 riders on'• 8cinde and India.

128 SCENES IN SCINDE.Bukhti* camels, with 8000 foot, and five catapultas<strong>for</strong> levelling <strong>for</strong>ts, together with rockets, fire-arms;and other instruments <strong>of</strong> warj as used by the unbelievers<strong>of</strong> Rum. t\The host <strong>of</strong> the Moslem marched from Mesopotamiathrough the province <strong>of</strong> Fars, t and passedalong the deserts <strong>of</strong> Mekran; then taking boat, theyarrived at the mouth <strong>of</strong> the mighty Mehran, andascended the eastern bank <strong>of</strong> the stream, to avoidthe host <strong>of</strong> Kafirs § which had collected to opposethem on the western road.They advanced withoutopposition, till at length they saw be<strong>for</strong>e them, onthe other side <strong>of</strong> the Indus, the tall spires and hugedomes <strong>of</strong> Dewal, IIthe principal port in Scinde.Mohammed bin Kasim then directed the chief <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> engineers to make vessels <strong>for</strong> the passage <strong>of</strong> theriver, and to build a bridge, which <strong>was</strong> done byfilling large canoes with stones, and by laying plankscrossw<strong>is</strong>e from side to side, after fastening themfirmly with wedges.Then, by the help <strong>of</strong> Allah, thearmy <strong>of</strong> Islam began to pass over, and with showers<strong>of</strong> arrows confused the infidels <strong>that</strong> pressed <strong>for</strong>ward* The large dark, shaggy, two humped baggage camel, <strong>of</strong> NorthernA.aia.t Constantinople. : A d<strong>is</strong>trict in southern Persia. § Infidels.n Supposed to be the modern Tattah. It <strong>was</strong> called "Dewal," or"Debal," from its Celebrated dewalya (pagoda); the Arabs and Peni&IUI.till know it by no other name.

THE ARABS ATTACK SCINDE. 129to oppose them on the opposite shore. A considerablebody succeeded in crossing the stream, clearedthe plain <strong>of</strong> enemies, and took up a position at thehead <strong>of</strong> the bridge until the rest <strong>of</strong> the army couldjoin them.. When the General had collected h<strong>is</strong> host he per<strong>for</strong>medthe duty <strong>of</strong> Imam* at their head; and theneausing the camel saddles to be heaped up in the<strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> a pulpit, he addressed the soldiery as fol­lows:-"The river <strong>is</strong> in your rear, the foeman in theftlJ.; whoever <strong>is</strong> ready to yield h<strong>is</strong> life, which actwill be rewarded with eternal felicity because <strong>of</strong> itscause, let him remain and have the honour <strong>of</strong> confliet,And any amongst you, who, on furtherthought, does not feel able to oppose the enemy, lethim remember <strong>that</strong> the road <strong>of</strong> flight<strong>is</strong> no longer tobe open-he will assuredly be drowned in the river,or else fall into the hands <strong>of</strong> the Kafir. So let thesenow take leave <strong>of</strong> us, <strong>for</strong> brave men determine eitherto do or die."Of the whole <strong>for</strong>ce, only three persons-one underthe pretence <strong>of</strong> an unprotected parent, another <strong>of</strong> amotherless daughter, and a third <strong>of</strong> want <strong>of</strong> means-• The "Imam" in Moslem devotional exerc<strong>is</strong>es <strong>is</strong> he who prays inflont <strong>of</strong> "a family or congregation.a3

180 SCENES IN 801ImB.•left the army.only anxious <strong>for</strong> battle.The rest declared <strong>that</strong> they wereFor some days the infidels, in anxious fear andd<strong>is</strong>may, made no attempt to fight.Presently, reproachedand taunted with cowardice by J aipal, their.chief, they <strong>is</strong>sued in swarms from the gates, withhorses sheathed in armour, and war elephants with'8teel howdahs; and their captain, as <strong>was</strong> the custom.<strong>of</strong> the Hindoo in <strong>that</strong> day, carried.during the fightan iron mace, pointed and spiked, and with.it heclove the head <strong>of</strong>.every warrior whom he smote. Aftera bloody battle, which lasted until the setting <strong>of</strong> thesun, the Moslems retired with saddened hearts; theworld <strong>was</strong> yellow be<strong>for</strong>e their eyea; they saw nothingbe<strong>for</strong>e them but defeat and d<strong>is</strong>grace, nought behindthem but despair and destruction.On the next morning, Jaipal again came <strong>for</strong>thwith h<strong>is</strong> host <strong>of</strong> armed warriors and beasts, andagain he <strong>for</strong>ced h<strong>is</strong> way through the torrent <strong>of</strong>soldiery <strong>that</strong> opposed him.At first the army <strong>of</strong>Islam became confused; Mohammed bin Kasim, inalarm, <strong>of</strong>fered up the incense <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> prayers andgroans at the shrine <strong>of</strong> the Most High, who favouredhim, and at length vouchsafed to him the victory.J aipal's war elephants, plied with rockets and m<strong>is</strong>silefire, took flight, and in their confusion fell back upon

THE SIEGE OF TATTAH.lSItheir own people, many <strong>of</strong>whom were thus destroyed;and crowds per<strong>is</strong>hed at the gates <strong>of</strong> the city, vainlyattempting to flee from the dagger <strong>of</strong> Destiny.Now, in the centre <strong>of</strong>" the Fort <strong>of</strong> Dewal <strong>was</strong> aplace <strong>of</strong> idols, <strong>for</strong>ty rods high, and on it a dome als<strong>of</strong>orty rods; on the summit waa a silken fl.ag, withfour tongues, the work <strong>of</strong> a potent necromant<strong>is</strong>t..None <strong>of</strong> the Islamites·knew th<strong>is</strong>, till, on the evening<strong>of</strong> the day <strong>of</strong> victory, an old Brahman, <strong>is</strong>suing privilyfrom the <strong>for</strong>tress, came and stood at the gate <strong>of</strong> thepavilion, in the presence <strong>of</strong> Mohammed bin Kasim."I learn from my <strong>book</strong>s," quoth the idolator,'~<strong>that</strong> th<strong>is</strong> country will be conquered by the scimitar<strong>of</strong> the stranger religion<strong>is</strong>t; <strong>that</strong> the appointed time <strong>is</strong>at length come, and <strong>that</strong> thou art the instrument inthe hand <strong>of</strong> Fate.I am here to show thee the way.*Those be<strong>for</strong>e our times constructed th<strong>is</strong> temple as atal<strong>is</strong>man,danger endure.Untilthe spell <strong>is</strong> broken thy difficulty andOrder some stratagem, so <strong>that</strong> thebanner on yonder dome, together with <strong>that</strong> part <strong>of</strong>the edifice, be thrown down.Mohammed bin Kasim took thought <strong>that</strong> night.In the morning he consulted the engineer <strong>of</strong> the.. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> reminds one <strong>of</strong> the Chr<strong>is</strong>tian priest, who having d<strong>is</strong>covered, orpetended to d<strong>is</strong>cover, or suppoBing <strong>that</strong> he had d<strong>is</strong>covered, in the Book <strong>of</strong>Daniel, the future greatne88 <strong>of</strong> the Saracen Empire, let a party <strong>of</strong> .Arab.into Damascus. .

132 SCENES IN 8OINDE.catapultas, whosaid, "Ifthou givest me ten thousandpieces<strong>of</strong> silver 88 a reward, I will undertake, by somemeans or other, to bring down the flag and cupolaafter three shots; ifI fail, I will agree to have myhand cut <strong>of</strong>f."At the blast <strong>of</strong> the trumpet the host assembled inrbattle array, each cohort taking its place round-thegreen banner <strong>that</strong> belonged to it.Every man stoodsilent &8 the dead whilst the machine, laden with aponderous atone, <strong>was</strong> brought to bear upon its d<strong>is</strong>tantmark; and a universal shout <strong>of</strong>" Din! Din !". brokefrom their breathless lips as the shivered ftag-staffflew far away, bearing with it the tal<strong>is</strong>manic banner.Again the instrument <strong>was</strong> charged; th<strong>is</strong> time itsheavy load dashed against the dome, which rockedand swayed as from the effect <strong>of</strong> an earthquake.Thebearded warnors then drew their scimitars, and, ledby the chieftains, moved onwards in order and rank,silent with expectation.A cry resounded from within the <strong>for</strong>t. Thebesieging host turned their eyes in the direction <strong>of</strong>the sound.When the veil <strong>of</strong> dust which concealedthe temple floated away upon the pinions <strong>of</strong> thebreeze, not a stone remained v<strong>is</strong>ible to mark theplace where the l<strong>of</strong>ty cupola once stood.•• "Faith r faith!" the old Arab war-cry, according to the SciDdiant.

•THE CAPTURE OF TATTAH. 188Again arose the loud cry, "Din t Din!" andthe turbanded ranks, bearing the battering-rams,dashed .furiously at the <strong>for</strong>tified entrance. Thewarders and defenders <strong>of</strong> the walls, struck withpreternatural terror, fled their posts. In a fewminutes the split planks and gates tom from theirhinges, af<strong>for</strong>ded an easy passage to the assailants.Thus <strong>was</strong> Dewallost and won.For three days there <strong>was</strong> a general massacre <strong>of</strong>the inhabitants. The victors then brought out the¥oslem pr<strong>is</strong>oners, and captured immense propertyand treasures.Be<strong>for</strong>e throwing down the pagoda, and substitutingthe mosque and the minaret in its stead,Mahommed bin Kasim, ordering the attendance <strong>of</strong>the Brahmaus, entered the temple and bade themshow him the deity they adored. A well-fcrmedfigure <strong>of</strong> a man on horseback being pointed out tohim, he drew h<strong>is</strong> sabre to strike it, when one <strong>of</strong>the priests cried, "it <strong>is</strong> an idol and not a livingbeing I s» Then advancing towards the statue, theMoslem removed h<strong>is</strong> mailed gauntlet, and placing itupon the hand <strong>of</strong> the image, said to the by-standers,"See, th<strong>is</strong> idol hath but one glove, ask him what hehath done with the other? "They replied, "What should a stone know <strong>of</strong> thesethings? "

1MSCENES IN 8ClNDE.Whereupon Mahommed bin Kasim, rebukingthem, rejoined, " verily, yours <strong>is</strong> & curious object <strong>of</strong>worship, who knows nothing, even about himself."·He then directed <strong>that</strong> the Brahmans, to d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hthem from other HindOO8, should carry in theirhands a small vessel <strong>of</strong> grain, 88 mendicants, andshould beg from door to door every morning; afterwhich he establ<strong>is</strong>hed a governor at Dewal, and Jhaving sat<strong>is</strong>factorily arranged affairs in <strong>that</strong> quarter,embarked h<strong>is</strong> machines <strong>of</strong> war in boats, sent them upthe river to Nirunkot,· and proceeded with h<strong>is</strong> armybyland in the same direction.* * * *To-morrow morning we start early, along thebeaten track, to Shaykh Radhan, the next haltingground.• 8uppoted to be Hyderabad.

AN EASTERN SUNRISE.." .lS~'CHAPTER VIII.SHAYKH RADHAN AND THE DEAD CAMEl,.WHEN we reach Jerruck, then, Mr. Bull, you haTemy full perm<strong>is</strong>sion to per<strong>for</strong>m a pilgrimage to thebanks <strong>of</strong> the Indus, and to become as classicaland intenselyrapturous, or as d<strong>is</strong>contented and grumblinglymatter-<strong>of</strong>.fact-with you, I know, it<strong>is</strong> a toss up which-as you please. It would scarcely be convenientto v<strong>is</strong>it it th<strong>is</strong> dark morning, although it <strong>is</strong> onlythree or four miles d<strong>is</strong>tant; however in the appearance<strong>of</strong> the stream about Tattah there <strong>is</strong> little tointerest the most excitable mind.The shades <strong>of</strong> night seemed to be d<strong>is</strong>persed by asilvery Hood which poured down upon us from theeastern sky. It scattered itself abroad in jets andstreaks; then, suddenly as it appeared, the lightfaded be<strong>for</strong>e your eyes and deeper darkness thanbe<strong>for</strong>e investing the <strong>for</strong>ms <strong>of</strong> earth hung from thegigantic ceiling above our heads. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the "falsedawn" as the Orientals call it. They suppose <strong>that</strong>

the SUDSCENES IN SCINDE.r<strong>is</strong>ing from h<strong>is</strong> nightly couch amidst theglooms <strong>of</strong> the nether world casts h<strong>is</strong> first look U}JOJlus through a hole in the mountain <strong>of</strong> Kaf,* and thear<strong>is</strong>ing <strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong> a while concealed from view by the darkside and m<strong>is</strong>ty peaks <strong>of</strong> the fabled range.And now ap~ the "true dawn," pale at fintand cold, but gradually reddening and warming •the orb <strong>of</strong> day approaches the starting point <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>course.wind~It <strong>is</strong> accompanied by a damp and chillythe Dam i Subh, or breath <strong>of</strong> the morning,which Moslems consider the sign <strong>that</strong> Nature <strong>is</strong><strong>of</strong>t'ering up her first tributes <strong>of</strong> pra<strong>is</strong>e and wonhip tothe Etemal Author <strong>of</strong> her being.You will BOOn be a pr<strong>of</strong>icient in the study <strong>of</strong>cc mornings and evenings,' my companion. Own<strong>that</strong> ...hen IOU left England your mind <strong>was</strong> m<strong>is</strong>ty in•the extreme upon the subject. You had a dim id.<strong>that</strong> day begins about:) A. lI., in summer, 8 inwinter-your day at 9 all the year round, not with• new <strong>of</strong> dawn, but an inspection <strong>of</strong> the breakfasttable.So I doubt not <strong>that</strong> all I have been showingto you <strong>is</strong> quite a norel as well as a curious sight,<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> a beautiful sunr<strong>is</strong>e-generally speaking,• A fUaIoaa1DOGDtaiD, mMe~ by Arabian ~ographers, to elk-ittle dMIU'th, aDd traulated. ill EDgliah dictioaaria-wb~, HdYeD. lmo..-·CIM...•

AN EASTERN SUNRISE. 187hereabouts a tame affair compared with the sunset.A bank <strong>of</strong> cloud fantastically shaped, brighter thanburn<strong>is</strong>hed gold below where illuminated by theunr<strong>is</strong>en luminary, and darkly purpling above, liesupon a ground <strong>of</strong> glowing crimson sky, whichs<strong>of</strong>tens<strong>of</strong>f towards the upper part <strong>of</strong> heaven's dome intothe sweetest imaginable rose colour. The suntt Looks through the horizontal m<strong>is</strong>ty air,"slowly topping the blurred and dotted line <strong>of</strong> thehorizon <strong>that</strong> seems loth to part with h<strong>is</strong> lowerlimb; h<strong>is</strong> aspect <strong>is</strong> red and cold, as if exposed to theatmosphere <strong>of</strong> a polar latitude, and <strong>for</strong> a while heretains the egg-like <strong>for</strong>m in which he first appearedto view.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the hour when the mighty ·enchantress,Refraction hight, loves to d<strong>is</strong>play her choicest feats.See <strong>that</strong> noble <strong>for</strong>tress, with towering keep and l<strong>of</strong>tyflagstaff, r<strong>is</strong>ing above a long range <strong>of</strong> buildings,avenues <strong>of</strong> spreading trees radiating from it in alldirections, and a broad expanse <strong>of</strong> water sleeping inits cradle <strong>of</strong> cape and promontory, and shelving shoreunder beetling bank and darkling hill-<strong>of</strong> what doesit remind you?Windsor Castle?* * * *And now what do you see? Three broken-down,

188 SCENES IN SOINDE.hovels <strong>of</strong> wattle work, &withered tree and half..dozen stunted bushes on a barren plain <strong>of</strong> blackmould crusted over with the glittering effiorescence<strong>of</strong> salt.No wonder <strong>that</strong> Poesy, the amiable purloiner<strong>of</strong> all nature's choicest charms, has long sincemade the theme her own.And no wonder <strong>that</strong> herbantlings still continue to work the subject in everypossible <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> common-place.Turning from the poetical to the practical, let medirect your v<strong>is</strong>ion to <strong>that</strong> place full <strong>of</strong> low bastardcypress* shrubs. Do you see a pearly white drophanging here "and there from the top <strong>of</strong> a featherybranch?It <strong>is</strong> not dew, but tamar<strong>is</strong>k-honey­,..,..,., as the Persians call it; manna, u wehave named it.A biblical acquaintance <strong>of</strong> mined<strong>is</strong>covered <strong>that</strong> th<strong>is</strong> stu1f' <strong>was</strong> the identical articlewith which the fugitives from Egypt were fed in thewilderness.. I ventured some objections, espeeiallyacompassion <strong>for</strong> the internals <strong>of</strong> the House <strong>of</strong>Israel-<strong>for</strong> I assure you, Mr. Bull, the effect <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong>turanjebin <strong>is</strong> emphatically the reverse<strong>of</strong> astringentbutquite to DO purpose. He had d<strong>is</strong>covered" manna in the lI'ildemess," and preferred throwiDg* Aliaa Tamar<strong>is</strong>k. Cuioaa &hat th<strong>is</strong> ahnlb baa \een eoafou:...with tile ~tne by 10 pr<strong>of</strong>ound aD. orietaliat 88 the &roo de 8M,. :" 0. la 141 pN powla".. tunaliDa," Ae., <strong>is</strong> hia "'Uual.~ •

THE DIWALI NIGHT. 189out the trifling d<strong>is</strong>tinction between meat andmedicament, to parting with h<strong>is</strong> tro'Uvaille.** * * *Mr. Bull, once <strong>for</strong> all, you must not attempt toride over bridges in the valley <strong>of</strong> the Indus.Nevermind the r<strong>is</strong>k <strong>of</strong> a roll down a slippery bank, or thechance <strong>of</strong> finding a quagmire in the centre <strong>of</strong> acanal, covered over with a deceitful crust <strong>of</strong> whit<strong>is</strong>hhard-looking mud, or the.probability <strong>of</strong> being swept<strong>of</strong>t' your clambering steed by a thorny branch on thefar side. These are problematical, the bridge <strong>is</strong> apositive personal danger.You are looking at <strong>that</strong> tiny raft garn<strong>is</strong>hed withextingu<strong>is</strong>hed lamps which has moored itself againstthe side <strong>of</strong> the broad canal which we are skirting.Yesterday <strong>was</strong> the sixth <strong>of</strong> November, in which theDiwali, a great S.cindee festival, <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> year cameround.It <strong>is</strong> the fashion at the season to dive int<strong>of</strong>uturity by means <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the rude barques which.. My biblical friend <strong>was</strong> treading the path which greater blunderersthan he had muked oul Burckhardt, following 8eetzen, <strong>was</strong> also <strong>of</strong>opinion <strong>that</strong> the manna <strong>of</strong> Scripture d<strong>is</strong>tils from the tanf6., or tamariak.These people make one lose patience altogether. The idea <strong>of</strong> feeding <strong>for</strong><strong>for</strong>ty years on a mild cathartic IN.B.-Burckhardt <strong>is</strong> right when he state. <strong>that</strong> the stuff <strong>is</strong> called"mann " (manna) by the Bedouins; but he notably deceives himself,and the truth <strong>is</strong> not in him, when, to make out a stronger cue, he believe.<strong>that</strong> the tamariBk nowyields it, except about Mount Sinai.

l~ SCENES IN 8CIRDB.you have jUBt now remarked.The worshipper <strong>of</strong>the river, after <strong>of</strong>feringup h<strong>is</strong> prayers to FatherInduaand Mother Lakahme, the Indian goddess <strong>of</strong> good<strong>for</strong>tune, repairs in the evening to the bank or II01D8lowing stream, launches h<strong>is</strong> craft and Bita gazing atit with an anxious eye.· If dancing gaily over theblack surface, it preserves ita onward career till 80IIlebend conceals it from view, he decides <strong>that</strong> the lamp<strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> life will bum brightly and steadily throughthe dark course <strong>of</strong> the coming year.But, on thecontrary, should some angry surge engulf theo1f'eringin its gloomy bosom, he prognosticates with melancholy<strong>for</strong>eboding, <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> happiness or h<strong>is</strong> life <strong>is</strong>fated to meet with many a storm.In some parts <strong>of</strong>Scinde the scene on the Diwali night <strong>is</strong> marvellouslypicturesque-the black river lit up with thousands <strong>of</strong>starlike lamps, shedding their fitful-light upon sombrebank, ruined tomb, and l<strong>of</strong>ty grove.* * * *Our road <strong>is</strong> the usual style <strong>of</strong> thing in theseregioDl,-a collection <strong>of</strong>trodden lines stretching overa wide <strong>was</strong>te.We leave the silt plain upon whichTattah stands, and ascend a hilly d<strong>is</strong>trict <strong>for</strong>med bythe ribs <strong>of</strong> limestone rock which compose the petralportion <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> Unhappy Land's <strong>for</strong>mation.Everynow and then we cross some hard, dry flat, covered

FEUDAL SQUABBLES. 141with fragments <strong>of</strong> yellow<strong>is</strong>h stone; these places followone another as steps; the highest may be a hundredand fifty feet above the level <strong>of</strong> the Indus, and theabsence <strong>of</strong> tamar<strong>is</strong>k and other shrubs shows at firstsight <strong>that</strong> no water, save an occasional shower <strong>of</strong>scanty rain, has been here <strong>for</strong> years.Those tombs crowning the hill by the way sideare <strong>of</strong> an unusual shape-small stone cupolas, supportedby four square columns <strong>of</strong> delicate proportions.They mark the memorable spot where fellcertain mighty chiefs, doing immortal deeds in somepetty feudal squabble. To relate the heart <strong>of</strong> theaffairwould take a Scinde minstrel three good hours,and involve the recital <strong>of</strong> twenty impossibilities andabout a thousand proper names, including patronymics.Intensely exciting all th<strong>is</strong> would be to theLaghar<strong>is</strong> and Lashar<strong>is</strong>,* the Campbells and Chattana<strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> the world; but I fear, Mr. Bull, <strong>that</strong>it would be morphine to yon. Shift the scene <strong>of</strong>Waverley to Affghamstan, or let Robert Brucebecome Akhbar Khan, would it not paralyse thehand <strong>of</strong> the mightiest magician <strong>that</strong> ever createdworlds with a quill ?What has halted our camels at th<strong>is</strong> hour <strong>of</strong> theday?* Two great BeJoch r,lanL

BCDBS IN 8CIl'IDLI mu1eratand. The luy ruca1a, oar 881,..til,preferred mounting to JIlUChing, and dosing 1IpODthe 10ft couch <strong>of</strong> Quiet, in the shape <strong>of</strong> a 10M •boxes, to doing their duty in looking after our pmperty.The conaequence wu, <strong>that</strong> the brute w1Iobrought up the rear <strong>of</strong> the line, broke h<strong>is</strong> Doestring,and, having DO rider, shook <strong>of</strong>rbia burdenlookatyourhandsomeroeewood writing-d~diftdedinto two equal parta, connected by its Bramahinstead <strong>of</strong> ita hingea-tmd gently slipped away intothe jungle, where he expected to meet a bodi ~friends and relatioDLIt <strong>is</strong> no use storming at the men now; the IIlOIeyou ICOld, the leu they do.We must apply ouraelveato recovering the fugitive.Fortunately theN<strong>is</strong> a village not very far oW, 80 we shall find DOclifticulty in procuring the B88iatance <strong>of</strong> a paggi, 01'tracker.The fellow r<strong>is</strong>es from h<strong>is</strong> slumbers under the thickcotton sheet, and stares wildly at us, 88 if we werethe Interrogating Angels* in proprid pera0n4.Wetake care not to lose sight <strong>of</strong> him just at first, otherw<strong>is</strong>ehe <strong>is</strong> sure to play camel, and to get out <strong>of</strong>what he fancies harm's way with all possible speed,,• Two worthies in Moslem di-riDity, 10lIl eiDce introduced bJ tlaegemu. <strong>of</strong> Byron to the home reader.

according to the cuatom <strong>of</strong>a wild country.The leastthe poor devil expects <strong>is</strong> the 1088 <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> halfa dozengoats, and a good beating <strong>for</strong> not being richer. Thatpresent <strong>of</strong> a rupee, however, gives him some confidence;he begins to think <strong>that</strong> we are fools; andthe prom<strong>is</strong>e <strong>of</strong> another confirms h<strong>is</strong> suspicions, andmakes him courageous.See how art<strong>is</strong>tically my savage addresses him toh<strong>is</strong> task.He ties on h<strong>is</strong> slippers with packthread,winds h<strong>is</strong> sheet tight round h<strong>is</strong> wa<strong>is</strong>t, and squattingupon the ground, scrutin<strong>is</strong>es the foot-print be<strong>for</strong>e hestarts, with ~ the air <strong>of</strong> a conno<strong>is</strong>seur, makingmeanwhile h<strong>is</strong> remarks aloud." He <strong>is</strong> a little, little camel-h<strong>is</strong> feet are scarcelythree parts grown-he treads lightly on the <strong>of</strong>f <strong>for</strong>eleg, and turns th<strong>is</strong> toe in-h<strong>is</strong> sole <strong>is</strong> scarred-he <strong>is</strong>not laden-there he goes-there-there; he <strong>is</strong> <strong>of</strong>fto the jungles <strong>of</strong> Shaykh Radhan! Now, sain,* yourslave <strong>is</strong> ready."As we are going to pitch our tents just above <strong>that</strong>identical <strong>for</strong>est, we may send on the remaining quadrupedswith the servants, and accompany our paggito watch h<strong>is</strong> proceedings.Is it not surpr<strong>is</strong>ing how he runs along the trail,• II SaiD," in Scinde, il the " Sahib" <strong>of</strong> India, the "Sir" <strong>of</strong> England.

SCENES IN 8CINDB.scarcely appearing to look at it, and yet following itevery tw<strong>is</strong>t and turn with the sagacity <strong>of</strong> an oldgreyhound?We pass over beds <strong>of</strong> sheet rock, almost •smooth 88 crystal; we pursue l"oads where yoUI' eyeand mine can see nothing but a confused m.. <strong>of</strong>fresh and faded foot-prints; we descend slopes fA.hard Silt, upon wbich you cannot detect the idea <strong>of</strong>a mark; our tracker never stops <strong>for</strong> a moment.Now be pauses upon the verge <strong>of</strong> the tangledwood, but only fOI" a brief breathing-time, and inorder to secure h<strong>is</strong> shoe."There, Sain, I told you he <strong>was</strong> going to ShaykhRadhan.""Thou didst,Shahbash, be a king! (equivalentto Y0ul" "bravo!" Mr. Bull), art thou to catch him?""At once, Sain, he stopped here to browse, andhe bas only just left the place. See, the grass baanot yet r<strong>is</strong>en from where he trod."The fellow proves the eorreetness <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> assertionby leading us straight up to a thicket, over the topmostbranches <strong>of</strong> which appear the fugitive's longneck warily outstretched, and h<strong>is</strong> bright black eyenervously fixed upon us. The sight <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> pursuenaseems to paralyse h<strong>is</strong> energies: he feels <strong>that</strong> heought to wheel round and trot oil without delay, but

somehow or other he cannot.THE TRACKER. 145The Paggi walksquietly up to him, seizes the wooden nut, still stickingin h<strong>is</strong> right nostril, and tying a new string to it,secures subm<strong>is</strong>sion without a struggle.The Scindee <strong>is</strong> celebrated <strong>for</strong> tracking, as the Arab<strong>of</strong> Tehamah, or the Aborigines <strong>of</strong> North America.He <strong>is</strong> the only detective <strong>for</strong>ce the country af<strong>for</strong>ds,and he <strong>for</strong>ms an uncommonly efficient one.If asoldier has deserted, a house has been robbed, or atraveller has been cut down, show him a footprint,and he <strong>is</strong> sure <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> man.He will describe theperson <strong>of</strong> the party you seek with unerring accuracy,and will follow the trail <strong>for</strong> any d<strong>is</strong>tance, no matterwhat means are taken to baftle him. Shoe vour"horse the wrong way, wear pads over your feet,-thieving slippers, as the natives call them,-shift fromboot to nudity, and again from nudity to boot, squat,stand, spring like a kangaroo, walk on all fours likea dog, do every thing you can to throw the humanbloodhound out, and still, if he be a well-trainedspecimen <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> breed, he will catch you.* * *' *These camels are fated to be the death <strong>of</strong> us to-day.You see be<strong>for</strong>e you the encamping ground, a gravellyflat, bounded upon one side by a low, irregular line<strong>of</strong> broken and craggy hill, on the other, by a rapidVOL. LH

146.SCENES IN sorsnadescent, leading to the thickly-wooded strip <strong>of</strong> clay,which skirts the right flank <strong>of</strong> Father Indus. Youcould scarcely m<strong>is</strong>take the place even were I not topoint it out. Look at the thousand fragments <strong>of</strong>black bottles,-in these regions, the lJDmjstakeabletokens <strong>of</strong> the white man's presence.You start.You clap your fingers to your noetrill.You gasp <strong>for</strong> breath upon the point <strong>of</strong> staggeriDg.You stare around you in wonder not unmixed withhorror.There lies the cause <strong>of</strong> your plight.Some baggagecamel has been left dying or dead by thetravellers <strong>that</strong> last quitted th<strong>is</strong> dreary spot.It <strong>is</strong> ad<strong>is</strong>gusting sight: the poor beast's body in the loathsomestate <strong>of</strong> transition from flesh to dust. He reataas he fell, with h<strong>is</strong> long neck doubled up almost to hiaback, in the agonies <strong>of</strong> death; all unburied <strong>of</strong> coune.A native would run the r<strong>is</strong>k <strong>of</strong> twenty plagues ratherthan take the trouble to remove a bit <strong>of</strong> carrion.The vultures are pecking at the head and quarterswith their iron bills and horrid bare necks in mostuncleanly state: the crows are frantically cawingtheir complaints <strong>that</strong> they are not allowed to sitdown to dinner by those bullies, their big brothers.And, 8Swe approach,-I must not spare you asingle detail,-two fat jackals, half torpid after their

THE DEAD CAMEL. 147ravenous repast, creep out <strong>of</strong> their dirty dining-roominthe corpse's stomach. .In a few days there will be asBeat a skeleton as <strong>was</strong> ever prepared by enthusiasticmedical student. .Even more d<strong>is</strong>gusting than thesight <strong>is</strong> the scent to those who are not, like Belzoni,~t <strong>for</strong>tunately destitute" <strong>of</strong> one sense. The effect <strong>of</strong>th<strong>is</strong> bouquet de chameau upon the olfactory nerves <strong>is</strong>acarcely describable.They quiver beneath a stemsmell, if I may be allowed the use <strong>of</strong> the adjective:a thing one can taste, which holds your palate andyour nostrils, peoples them with its heavy effluvia,seems almost to choke you with its intensity;-manyand many a year hence, Mr. Bull, when thinking <strong>of</strong>Shaykh Radhan, you will remember the sensation,and contradict the eminent phrenolog<strong>is</strong>t, who assuresyou <strong>that</strong> man cannot, by an ef<strong>for</strong>t <strong>of</strong> the will, recalto mind past smells.We must not pitch here.The wind <strong>is</strong> howlingmadly over <strong>that</strong> plat<strong>for</strong>med hill upon which thesaint's domed tomb stands, but we can make the oldwalls a screen, and from behind these protectingheights laugh at the impotent wrath <strong>of</strong> Boreas.Ourservants, I need not tell you, have lost all our irontent pins, and as <strong>for</strong> expecting wooden pegs to holdin such a soil with such a strain upon them, it wouldbe the height <strong>of</strong> " griffin<strong>is</strong>m."82

148It <strong>is</strong> related <strong>of</strong> a celebnted spolting gentleman inthe old country, <strong>that</strong>, on one oeeuion, beingrequested by. friend not to introduce him to theuncom<strong>for</strong>table excitement <strong>of</strong> being o,erturned in Igig or tandem, he at once ran the vehicle up agaiData bank and sent its contents lying into a neigboaringfield.Now, were Iat all d<strong>is</strong>posed to enjoy a similar,rare bit <strong>of</strong> practical wit, I have an excellent opportunity<strong>of</strong> gratifying myself.To see a single poledtent blown down in windy weather over a friend'shead, <strong>is</strong>, perhaps, even more funny than pitchinghim out <strong>of</strong> a dog-cart.But I will content myselfth<strong>is</strong> time with sketching you an outline <strong>of</strong> what thespectacle would be, instead <strong>of</strong> drawing it from life.You are sitting, we will suppose, quietly at dinner,quaffing lukewarm, muddy ale, and eating curry anddust to the sound <strong>of</strong> an aerial concert, far morepowerfully than pleasantly per<strong>for</strong>med,All <strong>of</strong> a sudden, cr-a-ck I-cr'ckIIThe mainstay<strong>of</strong> your canvas abode has been tom up frombeneath the stone placed to keep it firm in theground.You spring <strong>of</strong>t' your chair, overturning thesame, and make instinctively <strong>for</strong> the exit.You arejust in time to be caught and rolled over by thehinder kanat, or fly, whilst the pole, b<strong>is</strong>ecting your

THE TENT BLOWN DOWN. 149table as neatly as the " Saladin feat" <strong>was</strong> ever per<strong>for</strong>med,descends upon your humped up shoulders,and instantaneously "floors" you amidst a. mass <strong>of</strong>broken boards and scattered prov<strong>is</strong>ions, flanked bythe ruins <strong>of</strong> your <strong>was</strong>hing-stand, cot, and chest <strong>of</strong>drawers, and covered over with a quantity <strong>of</strong> tentcloth,whose weight allows you to kick, call, andstruggle, but positively <strong>for</strong>bids you to escape.Uprushes your gang <strong>of</strong> domestics, jabbering and gesticulatingin dire d<strong>is</strong>may,-they are owed a month'swages,- you feel a grasp,like a vice, upon youI'ancles, you are mercilessly drawn over the hardground against the grain, and you d<strong>is</strong>play yourselfonce more in the face <strong>of</strong> day, with hair ala chinoiae,white garments the colour <strong>of</strong> very brown paper, anda face, which in its mask <strong>of</strong> turmeric powder, boiledrice, dust, and the proceeds <strong>of</strong> a cut from the brokenbeer bottle, would scarcely be recogn<strong>is</strong>ed byyour ownmother.Perhaps, the tenor <strong>of</strong>your thoughts harmon<strong>is</strong>eswith the exclamation <strong>of</strong> the gentleman in the"Felon Sowe:-"Cl W<strong>is</strong>t my brethren at th<strong>is</strong> houre,That I were set in sic a stoure,Sure they would pray <strong>for</strong> me I"Humph I I am not quite 80 certain <strong>that</strong> theywould, Mr. Bull; methinks your "brethren"-

160 SCENES IN 8011mB.Chr<strong>is</strong>tian and European, 88 well 81 Pagan aDdAaiatic-would like nothing better than to lee JOUhalf brained by the ro<strong>of</strong> tree which mpporta yoarsomewhat too bulky abode.Some years ago, a similar "ryghte merrie " eYeDt-<strong>for</strong> one's friends-occurred to the humble m.m.vidual your guide. Substantial housee in th<strong>is</strong> part<strong>of</strong> the world are built <strong>of</strong> sun-dried brick, the wa1lasupporting rafters <strong>of</strong> Babul or Mimosa wood, onrwhich a thick layer <strong>of</strong> mud, with perhaps a littlegypsum, <strong>is</strong> spread to <strong>for</strong>m a ro<strong>of</strong>.The material <strong>is</strong>usually composed <strong>of</strong> salt<strong>is</strong>h clay, hurriedly poundedand imperfectly mixed: you may obaerve <strong>that</strong>wherever it touches the ground, your abode cramM.and <strong>is</strong> scooped out by the action <strong>of</strong> humidity •eWectually as if a pickaxe had been applied to thefoundation.As the building, under luch circam..stances, <strong>is</strong> safe to fall as soon as an opportunitypresents itself, the natives are careful every year torepair the weak part, and to prevent matters goingtoo far.Now it 80 happened <strong>that</strong> my corps <strong>was</strong> orderedinto "country quarters" in a villainous hole calledMohammed Khan's Tanda,* on the left bank <strong>of</strong> the• A" <strong>for</strong>ti6ed ,.i1~ ;" <strong>that</strong> it to _,., & bUDCh <strong>of</strong> boOla with a wallthem.roun~

THE FALL OP THE BUNGALOW. 151DOW celebrated Fulailee River. The f' village" <strong>was</strong>a square inclosure <strong>of</strong> mud wall, at least twenty feethigh, <strong>for</strong> fear lest a stray breath <strong>of</strong> wind shouldtemper the heat <strong>of</strong> the burning summer, containingsome nine habifations, built much 88 above de­ICribed, and separated by nartow lanes at least acubit deep in dust. As the property had been letby some native chief to our Government <strong>for</strong> publicpurposes, the necessary yearly repairs were <strong>of</strong> courseneglected,It had been raining all night. In the morning,where dust had been, mud <strong>was</strong>, and our clay houseswere literally wet through. Not dreaming <strong>of</strong> anydanger, I <strong>was</strong> sitting in my "drawing-room"-anapartment comparable to nothing but a gravel-pitro<strong>of</strong>ed and furn<strong>is</strong>hed-reading with an old Aft'ghanMunahi h<strong>is</strong> favourite Rahman's pathetic dole eoncerningthe melancholy uncertainty and the emptyvanitiesPlump I.~ " -De do. dunya.." *Half a ton <strong>of</strong> wall scattered without theleast warning upon the "drawing-room" floor!Pupil and pedagogue both jumped up from their* "Of th<strong>is</strong> world;" part <strong>of</strong> the refrain, <strong>of</strong> a popular ode, composedby the great Affghan poet, Abd-el-Rahman, familiarly and affectionatelycalled Rahman by h<strong>is</strong> fellow-countrymen.

152 SCENES IN 8ClNDlLchairs, and in hottest haste dashed through thetattiesa kind <strong>of</strong> thorn fence, and a well-mownoriental and therm-antidotal contrivanee--eaeapedthrough the door in time, and only in time, to Beethe entrance hermetically sealed behind them j thelute used on <strong>that</strong> occasion being sundry square feet<strong>of</strong> falling front wall.Within the twenty-four hours, three out <strong>of</strong> thenine houses <strong>that</strong> composed the Tanda lay in ruimI.The things melt away after a night's rain, like ice ina London ball-room.* * * *Those three little Jheels * below us-torpid sheets<strong>of</strong> thick fluid left behind by the last inundation,with the bottom <strong>of</strong> fetid black mud baking in thesun, where the waters have been drawn <strong>of</strong>f byevaporation - will af<strong>for</strong>d you excellent sport.Amongst the fat sedges, tall grasses, and mattedreeds, in every state <strong>of</strong> vegetable ex<strong>is</strong>tence, from thefirst stage <strong>of</strong>germination to the last state <strong>of</strong>decay, yonwill find mallard, Brahminee ducks, bitterns, snipe,and snippets: you have only to wander into the fineacacia woods <strong>that</strong> line the banks, and a herd <strong>of</strong> halfwildbuffaloes will af<strong>for</strong>d you a good chance <strong>of</strong> largerstuff <strong>for</strong> the pot; and if you stay long enough with* A lake or pond.

SCINDE FEVERS. 153your feet in the water and your head in the sun,although we are getting into the heart <strong>of</strong> the coldweather, you will most probably be able to pronounceUJpertu upon the pleasures <strong>of</strong> a Scinde ague.Fevers, I may in<strong>for</strong>m you, in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> Asia are<strong>of</strong> two kinds. One <strong>is</strong> a br<strong>is</strong>k, bold fellow, who doesh<strong>is</strong> work within the day, permitting you to breakfast,but placing h<strong>is</strong> veto upon your dining; the other <strong>is</strong>a slow, sneaking wretch, who bungles over you <strong>for</strong> aweek or a <strong>for</strong>tnight. * The <strong>for</strong>mer appears as a kind<strong>of</strong> small shivering, first; then as a sick headache,which, after a few minutes, feelsas ifa cord were beingtightened round your pericranium; your brain burnsas if it were on fire; your head throbs as though itwould burst; your skin <strong>is</strong> hot, and hard as a ridingglove.Presently your senses leave you; to deliriumsucceeds congestion; you pant and puff, all your* <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> may appear to savour <strong>of</strong> bravado, in which case the appearance<strong>is</strong> deceitful. At a d<strong>is</strong>tance, Yellow Jack, earthquakes, the Cuchillo, andsimilar strange enemies to human life, look terrible because ind<strong>is</strong>tinct:the heart does beat a little quicker when we fix thought upon it. But assoon as you find younelf amongst the dangers, you <strong>for</strong>get to fear them,and a little habit makes them, generally speaking, contemptible: yourexpected giants you find pigmies. Besides, I have been <strong>for</strong>tunate inopportunity <strong>of</strong> training, being brought up, as it were, in the midst <strong>of</strong>cholera: one easily learns to think lightly <strong>of</strong> such things in youth. Andevery one who thinks becomes, by some means or other, a fatal<strong>is</strong>t on a.mall scale, after a few yean in the East. n K<strong>is</strong>met 't and " Nasib" are80 <strong>of</strong>ten, so continually, in your ears, <strong>that</strong> at last they sound themselvesinto a kind <strong>of</strong> reality-an entity East, a.Donentity west <strong>of</strong> the Cape.BS

154 SCENES IN SCINDE.energies being applied to keeping the breath in yourbody-you fail therein, and are buried <strong>that</strong> evening.The slow fever attacks you much in the same way;only it imprudently allows you le<strong>is</strong>ure to send <strong>for</strong> adoctor, who pours cold water from an. altitude uponyour shaven poll, admin<strong>is</strong>ters mercury sufficient tostock an average-sized barometer, and bl<strong>is</strong>ters you,. generally, with mustard and other plasters, fromthe nape <strong>of</strong> your neck down to the soles <strong>of</strong> your feet.I never saw a patient recover from th<strong>is</strong> neceuarymode <strong>of</strong> treatment without entering into the feelings<strong>of</strong> the poor decrepit Hindu, who cursed the meddlinghand which clawed the holy mud out <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> mouthas he <strong>was</strong> com<strong>for</strong>tably dying upon the banks <strong>of</strong> theGanges, and by means <strong>of</strong> a draught <strong>of</strong> "fire-water,"sent him back to the world <strong>of</strong> matter, a baser bit <strong>of</strong>humanity than he <strong>was</strong> be<strong>for</strong>e.* * * *If you w<strong>is</strong>h to see how peculiarly uncharming inth<strong>is</strong> state <strong>of</strong> demie-toilette are the appaa <strong>of</strong> a certainromantic old maid called Solitude, whom many afool admires and courts be<strong>for</strong>e he has seen her, youhave only to set out with me <strong>for</strong> an evening's walk.We shall not meet a human being, or descry avestige <strong>of</strong> man's work, in the country about ShaykhRadhan...

Oh, the howling <strong>was</strong>te!THE WASTE. 155Now let us look at its denizens.High in theblue air, still catching the light <strong>of</strong> the set sun, thevulture wheels in gigantic circles, and the crows arescreeching with their usual no<strong>is</strong>iness as they skeltertowards their dormitory, some d<strong>is</strong>tant tree.Thematchlock or the rifle must at some time or otherhave been busy upon th<strong>is</strong> rugged spot, otherw<strong>is</strong>eita inhabitants would not stand in such evidentawe <strong>of</strong> us. See how the lynx with h<strong>is</strong> taperingblack tipped ears ever pricked up, slinks away,covering himself with every little bush or stone,lkilfully as the best Light Bob ever drilled.Theantelope stops <strong>for</strong> a moment, instinctively feeling<strong>that</strong> a foe <strong>is</strong> near, turns her graceful neck-eelebratedas her eye in the Arab's poetry*-sights ouradvancing <strong>for</strong>ms, and then, bounding <strong>of</strong>f, bends herrapid course towards some region <strong>of</strong> security.. Thatold grey boar who <strong>is</strong> slowly returning from an eveningexcursion to h<strong>is</strong> home in the neighbouringShikargah,t <strong>is</strong> not quite so timorous as h<strong>is</strong> neighbours;he mends h<strong>is</strong> pace when we approach theline <strong>of</strong> direction, but a certain Iook or a grunt• I allude to the beautiful line <strong>of</strong> Lebid <strong>that</strong> deecribes the antelopebending her neck towards'her newly-yeaned young.t Hunting <strong>for</strong>est in preserve.

156 8CBNBS IN SCINDE.<strong>that</strong> accompanies the glance, gives us to undentand<strong>that</strong> he has at least half a mind to revenge upon usthe foul wrongs which h<strong>is</strong> has sustained from thehands <strong>of</strong> our kind. We will let· him pass if youplease, h<strong>is</strong> tusks are long, curved, and sharp 88 •Persian dagger, and he has a dexterity in the use <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> arms which renders h<strong>is</strong> practice <strong>of</strong> self-defencesufficiently imposing, especially to a walking-stick.You stand to stare at those two pugnacious animalsupon the sheet <strong>of</strong> rock hard by. It <strong>is</strong> a pair <strong>of</strong>Pariah dogs, who, having had some difference uponsome subject unknown, are settling the affair <strong>of</strong>honour with their natural weapons, exactly as iftheywere Brit<strong>is</strong>h privates fighting it out in a quiet way.A most ridiculous sight <strong>is</strong> th<strong>is</strong> apparently causelessand yet most vicious and violent "set to j" theywrangle, worry, bite, roll each other over, and howlwith concentrated rage as well as pain: the apparentabsence <strong>of</strong> anything to quarrel about, makesthe vehemence <strong>of</strong> the quarrel appear the moreremarkable.Observe in the far d<strong>is</strong>tance our long string <strong>of</strong>camels returning after the day's grazing in the<strong>for</strong>est. The hazy, m<strong>is</strong>ty atmosphere enlarges theirbodies to a prodigious size: we can d<strong>is</strong>cern no legs,all we see <strong>is</strong> a shoal <strong>of</strong> whale-like <strong>for</strong>ms floating and

"SHIP or THE DESERT." 157sinking, pitching and swaying over the successiveundulations <strong>of</strong> the d<strong>is</strong>tant ground.Some Engl<strong>is</strong>hEastern travellers have opined <strong>that</strong> <strong>that</strong> Great Unknown,the literato who bapt<strong>is</strong>ed the animal, "Ship<strong>of</strong> *he Desert," must have derived the idea fromseeing him at a time when under the effects <strong>of</strong> themirage h<strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong>m. appears and d<strong>is</strong>appears on thehorizon, as a vessel does upon theswelling sea.surface <strong>of</strong> aMethinks, however, the conjectureassigns somewhat too much to the power <strong>of</strong> Metaphor,and a trifle too little to the operationAnalogy.* * * *I cannot flatter myself <strong>that</strong> I have made th<strong>is</strong> day'smarch very interesting to you, Mr. Bull.contrary.<strong>of</strong>Quite theI know it, and almost feel d<strong>is</strong>posedwereI not particular upon the point <strong>of</strong> accuracytoappend a legend to <strong>that</strong> hill, or to hang a storyupon th<strong>is</strong> tomb.However, tomorrow may chanceto bring <strong>for</strong>th an infliction <strong>of</strong> the kind.

158 SCENES IN BCINDE.CHAPTER IX.THE SEVEN HEADLESS PROPHETS.INSTEA.D <strong>of</strong> marching directly upon Soondan, on theHyderabad road, we will turn <strong>of</strong>f, if you please, tothe left and make <strong>for</strong> a certain f<strong>is</strong>herman's villagecalled Kinjur.There lies the lake, a shallow piece <strong>of</strong> water withreedy banks, and embosomed in low hills <strong>of</strong> theusual uninteresting shape, and the common unpic..turesque colour. I have nothing to 8ay about thesettlement: it being the normal Scinde things, whichyou have seen half-a-dozen times, and I have describedunto the exhaustion <strong>of</strong> synonymes. But you mustallow me to slip in a few words concerning theancient h<strong>is</strong>tory <strong>of</strong> the place, in order to render whatfollows intelligible.In the days <strong>of</strong> old-thus Asiatic legends alwayscommence, even as European children's tales, with"once upon a time,"-here rose a celebrated city;

LAKE KIN'JUR. 169the capital <strong>of</strong> the Sammah* dynasty, and the seat<strong>of</strong> empire <strong>of</strong> Jam Tamachi, the son <strong>of</strong> Junur.prince <strong>was</strong> celebrated <strong>for</strong> h<strong>is</strong> beauty and valour jThath<strong>is</strong>open hand, like the warm showers <strong>of</strong> spring, madethe hearts <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> subjects expand, and h<strong>is</strong> clenchedf<strong>is</strong>t,t like the icy breath <strong>of</strong> the Destroyer, paled thecheeks <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> rivals and h<strong>is</strong> foes.He <strong>was</strong> truly theshadow <strong>of</strong> the Lord cast upon earth's face: he satupon the cushion <strong>of</strong> sovereignty firm 88 the tall hill<strong>that</strong> spreads out its giant skirts upon the subjectplain: both the storms <strong>of</strong> <strong>for</strong>eign war and the shocks<strong>of</strong> internal d<strong>is</strong>turbance were equally unavailing toshake the bas<strong>is</strong> <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> prosperity.Be<strong>for</strong>e proceeding any further, you, Mr. JohnBull, are humbly requested not to confound myprince's title with any description <strong>of</strong> conserve--raspberry,strawberry, or other.j "Jam," meaning a•chief or the head <strong>of</strong> a clan, <strong>is</strong> the titulary appellation<strong>of</strong> the Sammah rulers <strong>of</strong> Scinde.. In the fifth year <strong>of</strong> the magnificent lam Tamachi'•.. A Scindee tribe <strong>that</strong> ruled the country <strong>for</strong> many yean be<strong>for</strong>e it fellInto tbe hands <strong>of</strong> the Mogul.t In Persian metaphorology, the open hand <strong>is</strong> the 'ymhal <strong>of</strong> generositf;the closed f<strong>is</strong>t, <strong>of</strong> austerity, avarice, or violence.: <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> deprecation <strong>is</strong> not unnecessary. Mr.Fraser altered hi, " KuzziIbub,"to the" Persian Adventurer," becauseJohn Bull,with" Callipash,"I suppose, or "guzzle and hash," ringing in the honest fellow', ears, pertinaciouslybelieved it to be an 0J"iental Cf)()iery-<strong>book</strong>.

160 SCENES IN BCINDE.reign, Bahaeldin,if.the majestic saint <strong>of</strong> Multan,being urgently invited, by h<strong>is</strong> d<strong>is</strong>ciples at Tattah, tograce the fair land <strong>of</strong> Scinde with h<strong>is</strong> presence, <strong>was</strong>induced to comply with their requests. To such anextent did he delight men's minds by h<strong>is</strong> spirit-stirringwords and deeds, <strong>that</strong> the said d<strong>is</strong>ciples-may theirand their father's graves be desert I-abominablyresolved to kill him and eat him;t expecting therebyto secure to themselves the perpetual benefit <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>presence, and to ra<strong>is</strong>e their recreant selves to a highdegree in the spiritual world.defeated in the design.However, they wereOne <strong>of</strong> the saint;s trustyfollowers d<strong>is</strong>covered the plot, proposed to save h<strong>is</strong>superior by sleeping in h<strong>is</strong> bed <strong>that</strong> night, and <strong>was</strong>graciously permitted to enroll himself in the ranks<strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong>d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hed body <strong>of</strong> men-the Moslemarmy <strong>of</strong> martyrs. The accursed Murids ~ then took* Popularly called Bahawalbakk-signifying it matters very littlewhat.H<strong>is</strong> name <strong>is</strong> invoked by all the :Moslem tribes, from Multan southwards,and h<strong>is</strong> very curious biography bas been made the subject <strong>of</strong> many andmany a tedious volume.t A strange way, you remark, to propitiate a holy man-a very commonone, I assert, in the wilder parts <strong>of</strong> Central Asia, as any sceptic may learnby asking the Affghan Hazarehs, how they came by the number <strong>of</strong> Sainteburied on their mountains. As regards eating the venerated defunct, it <strong>is</strong>done with the superstitious, popular idea <strong>that</strong> whoever tastes the flesh orblood <strong>of</strong> a great Santon, thereby eats himself holy, as the Templan dinethemselves" learned."::: A Murid <strong>is</strong> a" d<strong>is</strong>ciple," opposed to a Munhidor" spiritual instructor."

THE SEVEN FISHERMEN. 161the corps, "bryttled" it, boiled the choice cuts, andwere preparing <strong>for</strong> their cannibal repast, whenonever failing expedient inthe hands <strong>of</strong> the EasternromancerI-struck with an unknown fear they lookedloathingly upon-" The poor remains <strong>of</strong>what <strong>was</strong> once a saint ;"put them into a pot and cast it upon the bosom<strong>of</strong> Mehran. The vessel <strong>was</strong> presently' found byBeven hungry men <strong>of</strong> the f<strong>is</strong>herman caste, whodevoured its contents in ignorance <strong>of</strong> their nature,and at once by virtue <strong>of</strong> the same, quitting vulgarp<strong>is</strong>cation became f<strong>is</strong>hers <strong>of</strong> humanity, and men<strong>of</strong> God, very holy, and, apparently, very fond <strong>of</strong>meddling with matters <strong>that</strong> did not quite concernthem.You see <strong>that</strong> tall, old ruin <strong>of</strong> hewn stone upon thehill overlooking the lake. It <strong>was</strong> built there byJam Tamachi, <strong>for</strong> the purpose <strong>of</strong> af<strong>for</strong>ding h<strong>is</strong>beautiful bride Nuren, the daughter <strong>of</strong> a f<strong>is</strong>herman,a view <strong>of</strong> the humble scenes in which she <strong>was</strong> born,and which, incredible to relate, she continued to loveeven after her elevation to the dizzy height <strong>of</strong> regaldignity. To <strong>that</strong> palace the seven Wal<strong>is</strong>* repaired,and demanded the right <strong>of</strong> ingress in so authoritative• Wall ,a 8alnt. .

182 8CBNE8 IN SCINDlL• tone and manner <strong>that</strong> the very warder, an order <strong>of</strong>II gentlemen" who, in Beinde, are not more aftBblethan the footmen <strong>of</strong> Belgravia, dared not turn uptheir nosee at the light <strong>of</strong> pedestrians knocking tlta great man's door.And when these individualaappeared in the presence, instead <strong>of</strong> joining theirpalmi, prostrating themselves, trembling and lookingexanimate with fear, Pom I they squatted down uponthe rich rugs, and stared in the prince's face <strong>for</strong> atleast five minutes. Cats, be it observed, are byproverb allowed th<strong>is</strong> privilege in England; but, MJ\Bull, in a purely oriental country, a low fellow venturingto try the experiment, would probably leavethe hall <strong>of</strong> audience plus a solid bastinado and minuahalf the number <strong>of</strong> toes <strong>that</strong> usually terminate thehuman frame.No wonder, then, <strong>that</strong> the lam,just and generous 88 he <strong>was</strong>, could not <strong>for</strong> the life <strong>of</strong>him prevent h<strong>is</strong> cheek turning livid and h<strong>is</strong> beardbecoming cr<strong>is</strong>p with rage.et King <strong>of</strong> kings I we are here by order •H_ftll to pIOtect thee and thine against theimpious attempb <strong>of</strong>. the lIogull UThe lam'. beud re-became limp.UaaaqwUntul with Seinde hWtoi,I, ,-00 Ill" heiabtlwd tlrat the hiP admiPty Aladdin, Emperor\\1'" Delhi) had &ud the ~~ <strong>of</strong> _upon

THE HUGE LAND SERPENT. 168the fair <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> Seinde, and, like certain modernrulers, by no means contented with the Industhe"natural boundary <strong>of</strong> Western India"-as afrontier, he had been doing all h<strong>is</strong> possible to fix aquarrel upon the Sammah chief;and the latter,~nowing<strong>that</strong> the weakest always goes to the wall in~a as in Europe, had smilingly put up with manyan insult and injury.~heHence the reason why, whenMogul <strong>was</strong> alluded to, the Jam's hairs returnedtotheir normal state, whilst an expression <strong>of</strong> curioiityand encouragement replaced the gloom which hadsettled upon h<strong>is</strong> countenance.The seven f<strong>is</strong>hermen then proceeded to in<strong>for</strong>mhim, <strong>that</strong> directly under the walls <strong>of</strong> the capital <strong>was</strong>the head <strong>of</strong> a large land serpent, whose tail terminatedat Delhi-two thousand miles OT 80, allowing<strong>for</strong> an occasional coil.They added, <strong>that</strong> as long88 the animal in question continued in <strong>that</strong> position,8cinde had nought to fear from the Lords <strong>of</strong> India,and concluded by asking and obtaining the Prince'sperm<strong>is</strong>sion to thrust an iron spit into the unoifendingreptile's nose, <strong>for</strong> the purpose' <strong>of</strong> curbing anyerratic. propensities which it might be d<strong>is</strong>posed toindulge in.Long and loud laughed the people <strong>of</strong> Tattah at thesenile credulity <strong>of</strong> the Jam, their ruler.They had

164 SCENES IN SCINDB.no "Charivari," it <strong>is</strong> true, but.the want <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong>civil<strong>is</strong>ed invention <strong>was</strong> more than compensated bythe infinitude <strong>of</strong> sarcastic odes and sneering ep~<strong>that</strong> <strong>is</strong>sued daily from thelocal pens.Now Tamachi,like many other great people, ancient and modern,had a nervous horror <strong>of</strong> the hum, the buzz, and thesting <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> spiteful little insect, called a satir<strong>is</strong>t.Moreover, although he knew <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> only chance <strong>of</strong>escaping with a whole skin <strong>was</strong> to remain deadquiet till the swarm <strong>that</strong> had settled upon himthought proper to seek another subject, he could notbring h<strong>is</strong> impatient spirit to act so sensibly.Theresult <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> irritability <strong>was</strong>, <strong>that</strong> after vainly threateningto impale, roast, or chop in pieces the authon<strong>of</strong> the nu<strong>is</strong>ance, and after enduring its increasingvirulence <strong>for</strong> a few days, at length, in an evil hour,he ordered <strong>that</strong> the spit should be wrenched out <strong>of</strong>the ground.The iron <strong>was</strong> pulled up reeking with gore, and<strong>was</strong> shown to the sceptical Tattaites.Then thesneer <strong>of</strong> scorn and the smirk <strong>of</strong> self-esteem gave wayto quite another kind <strong>of</strong> look.They fell upon theirknees be<strong>for</strong>e the Prince and h<strong>is</strong> holy adv<strong>is</strong>ers; awe­.truck and confounded into belief, they supplicatedthe .even f<strong>is</strong>hermen to intercede with Heaven <strong>for</strong>them, their children, and their country. But these

THE FISHERMEN ARE MARTYRED. 165personages in<strong>for</strong>med them <strong>that</strong> the thing <strong>was</strong> impossible,<strong>that</strong> the snake hadUTurned h<strong>is</strong> head where stood h<strong>is</strong> tail,"and <strong>that</strong> Scinde had <strong>for</strong> ever lost her protectingspell.Jam Tamachi, as I have said, <strong>was</strong> renowned <strong>for</strong>exceeding equity. He acknowledged <strong>that</strong> thef<strong>is</strong>hermen were in no w<strong>is</strong>e blameable: indeed heowned <strong>that</strong> their conduct throughout the affair hadbeen everything it ought to have been. Only heins<strong>is</strong>ted upon the paramount importance <strong>of</strong> obediencein the subject, and told them flatly <strong>that</strong> unless <strong>that</strong>serpent's head returned to where it <strong>was</strong> be<strong>for</strong>e,within the twenty-four hours, he should consider ith<strong>is</strong> melancholy duty to make their pates and therest <strong>of</strong> their persons part company. Justice, heremarked, <strong>was</strong> a very fine thing, but-H<strong>is</strong> arguments are not worth recording. Thefact <strong>is</strong> he <strong>was</strong> unconsciously conscience-smitten;angry with himself, a person which he could notpun<strong>is</strong>h, he naturally became anxious to find someone upon whom he could vent h<strong>is</strong> royal rage. Theseven f<strong>is</strong>hermen asked <strong>for</strong> nothing better than thecrown <strong>of</strong> glory. So Jam Tamachi obliged them in<strong>that</strong> little matter by directing their.throats to be•

166 SOENES IN SCINDB.cut from ear to ear, and their heads to be rudelywrenched <strong>of</strong>f their bodies.all the honours.Which <strong>was</strong> done withBut conceive the d<strong>is</strong>may <strong>of</strong> the king, h<strong>is</strong> courtien,h<strong>is</strong> counsellors, h<strong>is</strong> captains, and h<strong>is</strong> subjects, whenthe last corpse immediately after decapitation, riaiDgalowly from the cordovan carpet, upon which· itknelt during the operation, stood bolt upright,grasping its head in its outstretched right hand.And furthermore, imagine if you can, the state <strong>of</strong>mind in which the terrified throng heard the bloodlesslips pronounce th<strong>is</strong> unpoetic rhyme-IfDyke <strong>of</strong> Aror be burst, and flowHakro perennial to the main :Swim ye f<strong>is</strong>h, ye lilies growWhere Sarnma.bs plough the sultry plain J"Now the bund or embankment <strong>of</strong> Aror* had,hundreds <strong>of</strong> years be<strong>for</strong>e the time <strong>of</strong> Jam Tamachi Jbeen thrown across the Indus by the masonic prowess<strong>of</strong> an honourable husband, who to save h<strong>is</strong> fairspouse from the tyrant Dilu Rahi's t importunities,diverted the main stream into its present rocky bed,and escaped from the ruthless king's capital, vi4 thenew cut. As <strong>for</strong> Hakro flowing, no one thought it• Aror, a city onee celebrated in 8ciDde, <strong>is</strong> located by antiquariea aboutfour mil. eastward <strong>of</strong> tho lDdua at Sukkur aud Rohri.t See Chap. ••

THE FISHERMEN PROPHESY. 167possible <strong>that</strong> the old dried-up bed would- ever berestored to its pr<strong>is</strong>tine state; and yet there stood acorpse pertinaciously and positively assuring them<strong>that</strong> the Sammah tribe <strong>of</strong> Scindees, who <strong>for</strong> themost part inhabit the sandy and sterile eastemfrontier towards Jesulmere, should dine on suchluxuries as pullah * f<strong>is</strong>h and aquatic roots.Sat<strong>is</strong>fied apparently with the amount <strong>of</strong> commotioncaused by its d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong> eloquence, the corpseturned upon its heel and deliberately walked out <strong>of</strong>the audience hall, through the crowded streets in thedirection <strong>of</strong> the Desert.Then arose the second sufferer, and withthemalicious eagerness with which man communicatesbad news to man, pronounced these propheticwords-II Steeds, gaunt and blue,t pour from the North,And matrons walk the crowded way:Then, Scinde ! incline thy stubborn headUnto the strangers':I: sabre sway."That individual left the palace amidst a fresh thrill• The "sable f<strong>is</strong>h," hereabouts & favourite article <strong>of</strong> food. SeeChap. xxviii.+ A grey horse, in Penian and Scindee, <strong>is</strong> called" blue." The peoplecould not but think <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> prediction when they saw our cavalry, who aregenerally mounted on light-coloured Arabs, marching down from Sukkur toattack Hyderabad.:t: In the original" Tajyani t " a word with a plurality <strong>of</strong> signification,Of,n.ther, none at all in particular.

168 SCENES IN SCINl)E.<strong>of</strong> horror.Besides the sceptre <strong>of</strong> Delhi, the natifts<strong>of</strong> Scinde only feared the Affghan sword.Affghan<strong>is</strong>tan,you know, Mr. Bull, <strong>is</strong> north <strong>of</strong> Scinde, andthe idea<strong>of</strong> their already too gay dames and toocoquett<strong>is</strong>h damsels being allowed to go about thestreets and bazaars without any let or hindrancewhatever, <strong>was</strong> too hard <strong>for</strong> them to stomach.Thethreat <strong>of</strong> slavery, the "tail <strong>of</strong> the storm," fell almostunheeded upon their ears, so stunned were they bythe outburst <strong>that</strong> preceded it.The third corpse, probably in pity <strong>of</strong> their mentaltortures, changed the subject and became extremelyoracular and ambiguoU9-«For yeu'8 to come broed Ar aba1l1ow;Bu~ when i~ dries by Fate'. decl'e8,The fierce Beloeh sb&1l sell h<strong>is</strong> SOIlFor silver pieces two and U1ree. •Now the Ar or Bhagar, the western outlet <strong>of</strong> theJndus, <strong>was</strong> or no particular importance to thepeople <strong>of</strong> Tattah :moreover, in those days, theyknew little and cued less about their future rulen,the Belochi~ a tribe <strong>of</strong> hill barbarians..MOdemSeindians would ba1"e recogn<strong>is</strong>ed in • moment themystic meaning <strong>of</strong> the quatrain, which pointsunerringly to the social position <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> people intIa~ pre8eIlt day, when the descendant <strong>of</strong>. Talpur or

THE FISHERMEN PROPHESY. 169royal Beloeh and the progeny <strong>of</strong> a Machhi*are equal88 two pennyweights in the well-po<strong>is</strong>edbalance whichBrit<strong>is</strong>h Equity holds be<strong>for</strong>e an admiring world.But lest the crowd should, we must suppose,think themselves quite out <strong>of</strong> the scrape, corpsenumber four, after going through the usual pre..liminaries, began tod<strong>is</strong>aster:-predict a direct and direful" I hear from Lar the BOund <strong>of</strong> strife,I see the hosts from Siro haste ;Then, Scinde I from 'twixt the South and EastThe brand <strong>of</strong>war thy shores shall <strong>was</strong>te."Here <strong>was</strong> a terrible conglomeration <strong>of</strong> m<strong>is</strong><strong>for</strong>tunes ja war beginning from Lar (Lower Scinde); againthe prospect <strong>of</strong> those abominable Affghans attacking·Siro (the upper d<strong>is</strong>tricts), and the certainty <strong>that</strong> bothprovinces would be involved in the common calamity.Intensely bitter became the reflections <strong>of</strong> theTattaites when the current <strong>of</strong> their thoughts <strong>was</strong>diverted by another prediction, which acted uponthe mental palate like 8sugar-plum after a blackdose-to reverse Tasso's moat epic image." Karo !tabaro's walls shall viewFierce combat raging half a day;The Mirmichi shall routed be,Then, Soinde! once more be blithe and gay."* A low cute <strong>of</strong> Scindianl.VOL. L 1

170And the doubt 88 to who or what these :Mirmiehi*qht be, by exciting the corioeity, arooaed thespirits <strong>of</strong> the auditon in no ordinary degree.Tb8Jactually experienced a aort <strong>of</strong>pleaaurable excitement--u ItaliaDa do when miraclea are perlormecIthenext headleaa body,r<strong>is</strong>ing from its Jrneea, followedthe example <strong>of</strong> ita vaticinating brotherhood:-U The JIirmichi! who may teach y8The mrIIl8t tobD him to bow1H<strong>is</strong> lady1'air weIIIII doable tan.,And dcnm h<strong>is</strong> Deck the loas emU &ow••The King and all the crowd, who knew <strong>for</strong> certain<strong>that</strong> their own hair <strong>was</strong> regularly every morning, afterbeing <strong>was</strong>hed with clay,t and perfumed oil, combedout and tied in a knot upon the poles <strong>of</strong>their heads,and <strong>that</strong> the locks <strong>of</strong> their beloved spouses wereplaited into a single quetU! with scarlet ribbons andstrings <strong>of</strong> seedpearl, now felt asmred <strong>that</strong> therough handlingpredicted <strong>for</strong> the Mirmichi~mmQDfellows who did not know even how to make theirheads look decent-could not by all the quibbJincand quirking, the tw<strong>is</strong>ting and torturing <strong>of</strong> anyauthority upon the subject <strong>of</strong> mantology in the land,be made to apply to themselves.Had they been auEngl<strong>is</strong>h audience they would most probably haTe• 1'be word hM DO pnciIe meNl!inl. t See Chap. D.

THE J'ISHERMEN PROPHESY. 171greeted the speaker with a loud hear, hear J or ageneral cheer. Being Scindians they gesticulatedand jabbered till the last defunct - determined<strong>that</strong> as h<strong>is</strong> brethren had begun to (l curry favour"with the ignorant <strong>of</strong> caviare he would not be outdonein pandering to popularity.-e-rapped out thesewords:-" Come, come, 1emen I and sit in peaceBeneath the Nagar's- sheltering shade :Beyond Puran no ro<strong>of</strong>-tree plant,Nor let one hearthstone there be laid :"and, following in the steps <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> fraternity, left theDurban.When the predicting <strong>was</strong> allover, crowds, as youmay imagine, followed the predicters in order tosee what became <strong>of</strong> them.They must have hadthe vitality <strong>of</strong> worms, and the legs <strong>of</strong> horses, those ,holy men, <strong>for</strong> they walked right on end with a mostimportant bit <strong>of</strong> themselves under their arms, tothe banks <strong>of</strong> the Puran River, at least a hundredmiles <strong>of</strong>f.At length reaching a place called Amri,they fell to the ground bereft <strong>of</strong> motion, and werethere buried by those who had the curiosity to watchth<strong>is</strong> peculiar d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong> pedestrian<strong>is</strong>m to the last.• The name <strong>of</strong> 1'attaA, Chap. VI.12

172 SCENES IN SCINDE.Their sepulchres, which are shown to the presentday, prove, or ought to prove, I suppose, <strong>that</strong> what <strong>is</strong>said to have occurred, occurred.Some<strong>of</strong>these rugged rhymes are palpably<strong>of</strong>'modemgrowth; others are ancient, and have probably beenhanded down from father to son <strong>for</strong> <strong>generations</strong>past.* You would scarcely believe, Mr. Bull-unlessat least you heard it from so well-in<strong>for</strong>med a compagnonde 'Voyage as myself-the effect they haveexerc<strong>is</strong>ed upon the <strong>for</strong>tunes <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> province.TheLycophronic designation "Mirmichi," after beingapplied auceessively to the Indians, Affghans, Jats,and others, descended in due course <strong>of</strong> time to thenext ruling race, the Belochies, Varite lectiones beganto creep in. The last couplet <strong>of</strong> the sixth corpse'squatrain <strong>was</strong> thus amended:" Their locks are black as jet above,Their raiment darkly blue below:"-a description applicable to the inhabitants <strong>of</strong> half• Who will write us a work on uninspired prophecy P It ought to bea mOlt amusing and a most interesting one. The eastern world <strong>is</strong> full <strong>of</strong>curious predictions; <strong>for</strong> instance-The Chinese expected harm from a <strong>for</strong>eign tribe ruled by & woman.The Burmese learned from their Merlin <strong>that</strong> they should be invincible,.until a ship, without oars or sails, Itemmed the rapidcourse<strong>of</strong> the lrawaddy.And, to quote no otben, the wild tribee <strong>of</strong> Southem Africa, u theaccompl<strong>is</strong>hed authoress <strong>of</strong> the" Cape and the C&ffres" in<strong>for</strong>ms us, feltprepared to be beaten when they saw the long-<strong>for</strong>eseen eea-wagon. touchtheir shores.

·'THE PROPHECIES. 173Central Asia. When, after many petty squabbleswith Bombay-so they interpreted the origin <strong>of</strong> thestorm from between south and east-a <strong>for</strong>ce march.ing from Lower Scinde, under Sir John Keane,threatened' them with war; and finally,' when SirCharles Napier, hurrying down from Sukkur withh<strong>is</strong> cavalry, mounted on gaunt "blue" Isteeds, theself-named " Mirmichi " felt certain <strong>that</strong> their hour<strong>was</strong> come. They fought, but with dimin<strong>is</strong>hed spirit,like the garr<strong>is</strong>on <strong>of</strong> Bhurtpore when besieged bytheir fated capturer the" Lord Alligator." * Thusthe prediction, as we so <strong>of</strong>ten see in such matters,verified itself. To the present day the Scindiansswear by these prophecies; the Bhagar creek l~gradually shrinking, the proud Beloch bas lost allthe privileges which he once enjoyed as the rulingrace; ladies do walk the.streets much more thanthey used to do, and Kurrachee, "beneath theNagar'sehade,' (i. e. not far from it) has oustedHyderabad, from its ancient position, as capital <strong>of</strong>the country. True the dyke <strong>of</strong> Aror remains, theHakro has not yet provided the hungry Sammahs* It <strong>was</strong> predicted <strong>that</strong> Bhurtpore W8I impregnable to anything but aKumbheer or alligator. "Kumbheer meer" would mean the" LordAlligator," and sufficiently resembled Combermere to sound uncom<strong>for</strong>tablein Hindoo ears.

]74 SOENES IN 80INDE.with any f<strong>is</strong>hes, and there has been no battle at theplace called Karo Kabaro.But these are little flawswhich must be regarded with the indulgence usuallyextended by you, Mr. Bull, to poesy, painting, andthe other trades which deal wholesale in imaginativematerial.Pray look not so contemptuous and high-mindedat what you term the "poor devils' superstition andcredulity."These are weeds which grow all theworld over, in every age and in every clime. Wheneverthe public mind, civil<strong>is</strong>ed or barbarous, becomesexcited, it flies directly to the marvellous, the preternatural,and the supernatural, even as a gentlemanin d<strong>is</strong>tress does to the bottle.I could elucidate th<strong>is</strong> assertion by many anexample, but not having time to dress and deck itin the elaborate garb it deserves to wear, I prefer,with your perm<strong>is</strong>sion, to leave it in the naked <strong>for</strong>m<strong>of</strong> a dictum.IBut be<strong>for</strong>e parting with the subject,recollect reading a legend in some old French<strong>book</strong>-name long since <strong>for</strong>gotten-which matches 80admirably with what I have just been narrating,<strong>that</strong> <strong>for</strong> the life <strong>of</strong> me I cannot help narrating it inmy own way <strong>for</strong> your edification.As one Denn<strong>is</strong>, <strong>of</strong> beatified memory, <strong>was</strong> trudgingin company with a little knot <strong>of</strong> friends towards a

ST. DENNIS. 175muddy town and camp, called Lutetia Par<strong>is</strong>iorum,then garr<strong>is</strong>oned by a legion <strong>of</strong> pagan Romans, hecame upon one <strong>of</strong> their outposts on a hill not farfrom the end <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> journey. The spirit moved theholy Areopagite to tum into one <strong>of</strong> the leathern tents,tenanted by the fighting men, and to begin a d<strong>is</strong>coursewhich presently collected around him half acentury <strong>of</strong> soldiers, and hundreds <strong>of</strong> the Lixm, orcamp followers.The harangue-I take the liberty <strong>of</strong> presuming,<strong>for</strong> such <strong>is</strong> almost invariably the case-began withan exhortation to the men-at-arms, about mendingtheir ways, figuratively, not literally, and becomingChr<strong>is</strong>tians. From which proper field <strong>for</strong> good adviceand much prosing, it slipped insensibly into a debateabledangerous bit <strong>of</strong> ground, violent abuse <strong>of</strong>heathen<strong>is</strong>m, and all heathens, young and old, male andfemale, priests, laymen and vestal virgins, pell melle" Id nimia est horus rei,"-<strong>that</strong>'stoo much <strong>of</strong> a goodthing,-said a frowning old Triareus, orgrenadier, sixfeet and a half high, with a beard like a bear's back,and a face gridironed with scars.. "Fac teneat ma:rillam tuftC,"-make the parson covehold h<strong>is</strong> jaw then,-cried a pert Veles, or light infantryman." Nothing easier-hie it-here goes," growled the

176 SCENES IN 8OINDE.veteran ruftian J walking <strong>of</strong>f to the tent <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> eenturion,The vieille moutacke <strong>was</strong> right.Captain CUUlFlaccus Luscinus ~mili.anusIndicus-he derived h<strong>is</strong>second cognomen, or agnomen, from having servedtwentyyearsin Indiawith the ** Buffs-d<strong>is</strong>likednoothing more than a Frenchman, save and except onlya Chr<strong>is</strong>tian.:Military law <strong>was</strong> not quite so deeplystudied, or 80 well defined in those days as it <strong>is</strong> now.So the gallant <strong>of</strong>ficer found little difficulty in making,.out 8 case <strong>of</strong> felony against the holy St. Denn<strong>is</strong> andh<strong>is</strong> friends, who, by the by, had done absolutelynothingbut shake over their bare feet at the prospect<strong>of</strong> appropinquate martyrdom. All were seized atonce, were unmercifully kicked and mauled, lestdecapitation might not be a sufficient pun<strong>is</strong>hment,and finally were beheaded with extreme brutality,• <strong>for</strong> their clothes <strong>for</strong>med so ragged a perqu<strong>is</strong>ite, andtheir pockets were 80 painfully light, <strong>that</strong> no amount<strong>of</strong> supplication would induce Calcraftus, the lictor, todo h<strong>is</strong> work like a gentleman.The saint <strong>was</strong> the last to suffer.In the fervour<strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> or<strong>is</strong>ons, he had quite <strong>for</strong>gotten one thing,namely, <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> bones, which might be so useful inhealing the bodies and souls <strong>of</strong> mankind, would bequite lost to the 'World, ifthrown, as theywere likely

MONTMARTRE. 177to be, into the nearest ditch, to moulder away inobscure corruption..So, leaving h<strong>is</strong> six friends,whose faith did not enable them to per<strong>for</strong>m suchachievements, St. Denn<strong>is</strong> rose from the bloodstainedground, and carrying h<strong>is</strong> head-whose frontalportion frowned like a Saracen's upon the d<strong>is</strong>comfitedpagans-in h<strong>is</strong> hand, he walked directly intothe It City <strong>of</strong> Mud," where, after a short consultationwith the Very Reverend the Diocesan <strong>of</strong><strong>that</strong> diocese,he <strong>was</strong> duly ,c put to bed with the shovel," in thefirm and pious hope <strong>of</strong> becoming, at some futuretime, a ton <strong>of</strong> reliques,I <strong>for</strong>get whether the hard heart <strong>of</strong> Captain CainsFlaccus Luscinus .LEmilianus Indicus <strong>was</strong> melted bythe occurrence, or whether he died, as he lived, apestilent heathen. But I perfectly recollect, <strong>that</strong>there <strong>is</strong>, near Par<strong>is</strong>, a place called Montmartre,the Mount <strong>of</strong> Martyrs, and, I consider the namepro<strong>of</strong> positive <strong>that</strong> the event above detailed reallyoccurred.And, Mr. Bull, you cannot need reminding, <strong>that</strong>during the last few years --48, -49, -50, and -51,all kinds <strong>of</strong> Welsh and German predictions aboutcrowned heads, war, famine, and grave-diggers havebeen flying about in the mouths <strong>of</strong> men. None, <strong>of</strong>course, believed in, though all knew and quoted

178 . SCENES IN scnmE.them: but had they turned out true, which un<strong>for</strong>tunatelythey did not, they had at least 88 fair achance <strong>of</strong> descending to poaterity as the rhymes <strong>of</strong>the Seven F<strong>is</strong>hermen.

SOONDAN AND JERRUCK. 179CHAPTER X.SOONDAN AND JERRUCK.Two places to which I am about to introduce you,rather <strong>for</strong> the ceremonial and uni<strong>for</strong>mity <strong>of</strong> thething than with the expectation <strong>that</strong> you will derivemuch pleasure from the acquaintance.I dare say, the journey from Kinjur to Soondan,the nearest village in the Hyderabad road, <strong>was</strong> thusnoted in your diary :"Rose early, mounted old Arab, lost the waythree times.; cold and com<strong>for</strong>tless; did not arrive atencampment...ground till nine; five hours doingten miles! Place where tent stood, dirty andd<strong>is</strong>agreeable. Breakfasted as usual, slept, awokeat 2 P.K. Splendid aftemoon. Dined at three; atfour, walked a mile or two to see some large domedtombs; I am sick <strong>of</strong> them, but <strong>that</strong> fellow B. wiltins<strong>is</strong>t upon my v<strong>is</strong>iting all the sights. All to beseen <strong>was</strong> a troop <strong>of</strong> beggars, calling themselves'Fukyers/ wbo looked very surly be<strong>for</strong>e I gave

180 8CINB8 IN· SCIBDLthem a few coppers. Returned to tea; went tobed under quilt tint time since leaving dear oWEngland."And Ihave no doubt, oh you unromantic oldfellow I <strong>that</strong> you chronicled the next day's march ina very similar style.We started, you may remember, en route <strong>for</strong>Jerruck, winding along the skirts <strong>of</strong> many ridgyheights, now descending into the thickly-woodedplain <strong>that</strong> lines the margin <strong>of</strong> the river; then againucending the stony hills <strong>that</strong> conatitute its westembarrier.About half way we passed through a long Shikargab,which has gained a perdurable ill name.ThiB<strong>is</strong> supposed to be the hunting <strong>for</strong>est where thoseftinty-hearted despots, the Talpur Amirs, "like thefirst Norman in Bolderwood, razed a populous villageto the ground, and exiled its inhabitants to a d<strong>is</strong>tantd<strong>is</strong>trict, because the crowing <strong>of</strong> the cocks and otherrural sounds <strong>of</strong>its human and bestial population d<strong>is</strong>.turbed the game in the neighbouring preserve."When you are in the highly moral and ·philan-~hropicmood,-you are liable to such complaintsby fits and starts, Mr. Bull,-what food <strong>for</strong> reflectionand d<strong>is</strong>sertation does such a fact af<strong>for</strong>d you!Theatony bosom <strong>of</strong> despot<strong>is</strong>m,-Nero and h<strong>is</strong> harp,-

HUMBUG. 181William the Conqueror and William surnamedRufus,-" the caput mortuum <strong>of</strong> tyranny d<strong>is</strong>tilleddown step by step, from its first outbreaks in theinsolence <strong>of</strong> place and the intoxication <strong>of</strong> success,till it ends in the destruction <strong>of</strong> 'Villages (the plural),and the expulsion <strong>of</strong> a population (rather an extensivesingular I) <strong>for</strong> the creation <strong>of</strong> hunting ground,'These, I repeat, are pregnant themes.Then came to mind <strong>that</strong> dear old Oliver's rod..taught lines upon the subject <strong>of</strong> deserted villages,teeming witlt images <strong>of</strong> lovely ruralities and romanticideas <strong>of</strong> purity and happiness, which your boy<strong>is</strong>hfancy <strong>was</strong> most erroneously wont to associate. withcountry life.beautiful passage:-With what fervour you recited <strong>that</strong>" As some tall cliff <strong>that</strong> lifts its awful <strong>for</strong>m,Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm,Though round its breast the rolling clouds are spread,Eternal 'sunshine settles on its head."Not <strong>that</strong> the quotation <strong>was</strong> very a-propos,-but still.And though grim ReasoD:,suggested, <strong>that</strong> theseCaligulas <strong>of</strong> Scinde had a perfect right to do whatthey pleased with their. own property, how willinglyyou turned an .ear to the small, still voice whichin<strong>for</strong>med you <strong>that</strong> the ruin <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> ungodly race <strong>was</strong>the retributive decree <strong>of</strong> Providence..

182 SCENES IN SOINDE.However, about all th<strong>is</strong> there <strong>is</strong> a great deal <strong>of</strong>m<strong>is</strong>apprehension, the growth, I conceive, <strong>of</strong> a hotbed<strong>of</strong> "humbug." It <strong>is</strong> a curious illustration <strong>of</strong>Sathanas and h<strong>is</strong> scriptural quotations, <strong>that</strong> when.ever good Madam Britannia <strong>is</strong> about to break theeighth commandment, she simultaneously d<strong>is</strong>plays •lot <strong>of</strong> piety, much rhapsod<strong>is</strong>ing about the brightdawn <strong>of</strong> Chr<strong>is</strong>tianity, the finger <strong>of</strong> Providence, thespread <strong>of</strong> civil<strong>is</strong>ation, and the infinite benefit conferredupon barbarians by her permitting them tobecome her subjects, and pay their rents to her.Examine th<strong>is</strong> omni-quoted Shikargah tyranny-grievance.In Scinde each component house <strong>of</strong> a flour<strong>is</strong>hingvillage would be razed to the ground, carriedbodily ten miles <strong>of</strong>f, re-erected and re-inhabited atthe probable expense <strong>of</strong> two shillings and sixpenceper domicile.Moreover, I regret to say, <strong>that</strong> theSclndians, like <strong>for</strong>eigners in general,having noword to explain your "home," attach none <strong>of</strong> thosepretty ideas to the place in question, which supplyMr. John Bull, Mrs. B. and the children, with matter<strong>for</strong> eternal maudlin.You remarked, as we passed through, the dry grasssmouldering under our horses' ho<strong>of</strong>s. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> Shikargahappears to have a " fatal facility" <strong>of</strong> catching fire: Ihave passed through it haIfa dozen times, and alwaysI'"..

THE SHIKARGAH NEAR JERRUCK. 183found some part <strong>of</strong> it burning.Here it <strong>was</strong> <strong>that</strong>three fine young <strong>of</strong>ficers <strong>of</strong> the 2nd Queen's, thenmarching northward under Sir John Keane, losttheir lives. A court <strong>of</strong> inquest assembled, andrecorded a verdict <strong>of</strong> accidental death.The men <strong>of</strong>the regiment, <strong>of</strong> course, were furious, as they had aprospect <strong>of</strong> fighting the Belochies; and, althoughthere <strong>was</strong> no evidence to prove <strong>that</strong> the enemy hadbeen guilty <strong>of</strong> foul play, like soldiers generally atsuch a conjuncture, they were more than willing t<strong>of</strong>ind something to be immensely ferocious and bloodthirstyabout.world.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the way in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> theYou seldom hear <strong>of</strong> men going into battlewithout some aggravated personal grievance, such asthe loss <strong>of</strong> an <strong>of</strong>ficer, a friend, a dog, a wife, or 8box.One old Scotchman, in Affghan<strong>is</strong>tan, neverspared a life, it <strong>is</strong> said, because the women were inthe habit <strong>of</strong> crying out "anum!" (quarter!).whichSawney, translating into a petition <strong>for</strong>" a mon," considereda liberty so gross as to j nstify any amount <strong>of</strong>severity.Probably the poor fellows had set fire tothejungle in order to start the game, and a suddenchange <strong>of</strong> wind had brought the flame down uponrthem. You can scarcely imagine how easy it <strong>is</strong> tobe burned to death in one <strong>of</strong> these places.All.. .,.

184 SCENBS IN SClNDB.beneath the tall tamar<strong>is</strong>k, acacia, mimosa, andpoplar tl'ees,* <strong>is</strong> a mass <strong>of</strong> matted underwood,luxuriant sedge, rank weeds, and long grass,' whichin the drY season are inftammable as German tinder.•Your 8C:I,ants and camels pass through the tint, sayan hour be<strong>for</strong>e you, IIIDOking their pipes and droppingthe fire in all directiODS.. You follow them probablyby another and Deighbouring cot, jogging slowly~ thiDkiDg <strong>of</strong>breakfAst or wh<strong>is</strong>tling <strong>for</strong> want <strong>of</strong>other ~pati.em:Suddenly. sharp crackling and• loud roan.., behind you make you prick up yourears: 10'1 look IOUIld and see • huge tongue <strong>of</strong>~ ~TtWlrattempting to lick your back. In aha~~ <strong>of</strong> miud you tDp spun to your steed,... if t'fv do aot ~1'e him <strong>of</strong> the use <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>'""~ \lI' it..~ other band. (ear do not urge him,• ..N$O btiad.~tMt the bough <strong>of</strong> • tree sweeps~_ ,'" ~ bk*; it ~ path be<strong>for</strong>e you be not~1 wi. ~ ~ apoo ..hidl DO horse will'""" ~ ... ~"if ~ ~ tail to C2lUa. you up~\~ \'t' t\.\ ~ ~. in fh-.t-Cor one <strong>of</strong> these*w \~t~ ~\tl a\Q$f ~ IftPUEd escape <strong>is</strong>,,_~.....~~will ~ .Coort<strong>of</strong> Inquest.'t',. t\"" ~. *W Wft t\) U«tld ~ tift, an act'II t.~ ~ ... \:~ ¥ ~"•• ....,.~:1ft t. d.<strong>is</strong> put~~~

FATHER INDUS r 185<strong>of</strong> infatuation which no one, situated as you are, failsto commit; you are asphixiated by dense rollingclouds <strong>of</strong>.hot black smoke spangled with little bits <strong>of</strong>burning straw; theflames are roaring <strong>for</strong> you below;you leap wildlyfrom your ill-selected place <strong>of</strong> refuge jyou speedily become a. "d<strong>is</strong>tressing spectacle."-* * * *As, mounting the brow <strong>of</strong> a. hill, we caught sight<strong>of</strong> a line <strong>of</strong> water inclosed by jungly banks stillpurpling in the imperfect morning light, I elevatedmysel~ if you recollect, upon my stirrups, extendedmy right arm, and with the impressive expression <strong>of</strong>countenance with which an effective cicerone standingatthe Camaldoli, pronounces the apophthegm," Vedi Napoli e poi muori," I looked at you andexclaimed-"There, Mr. Bull, lies the far-famed, the classicIndus!"Now, a year or two after your return home you~ill probably <strong>for</strong>get lea actualites <strong>of</strong> the scene. Youwill find it necessary to suppose facts, as you willhave d<strong>is</strong>covered <strong>that</strong> the Childe Harold style "goesdown," society's throat much more glibly than <strong>that</strong><strong>of</strong> Matthews or Smollett-the querulous and theblase-there<strong>for</strong>e you will become impressionable,romantic, poetical, semi-sublime, et cetera.

186 SCENES IN BOINDE.IAnd one <strong>of</strong> these days, sir, when I detect youdescribing to a delighted lady audience "the strong-the overpowering emotion with which you contemplatedthe scene <strong>of</strong> Alexander's glories:" whenI hear you solemnly asseverating <strong>that</strong> "never be<strong>for</strong>edid the worship <strong>of</strong> water or wa.ter-gods appear toyou so excusable, as in observing the blessings everywherediffused by th<strong>is</strong> mighty and beneficent,stream "-Then, sir, I shall wh<strong>is</strong>per in your ear, " No, Mr.Bull, you did nothing <strong>of</strong> the kind.You lookedsurlily at me when I attempted to kindle the fuel <strong>of</strong>enthusiasm latent in your bosom, and you remarked<strong>that</strong> the river <strong>was</strong>n't broader than the Thames atBlack'all.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> you corrected to the Thames atGreen'ich, and between Greenwich and Blackwallyou stuck till we reached the margin <strong>of</strong> the stream.Then you swore <strong>that</strong> it <strong>was</strong> still as a mill-pond, foulas a London sewer, shallow, flat-banked, full <strong>of</strong> sand<strong>is</strong>lets,-briefty, an ugly sight. Even the lovelyacacias, whose yellow locks drooped gracefully overthe wave, 88 if they were so many Undines gazingfondly into their natal depths, could not <strong>for</strong>ce asingle expression <strong>of</strong> admiration from you."* * * *Jerruck <strong>is</strong> the first town you have seen not built

JERRUCK. -. 187upon the alluvial flat <strong>for</strong>med by the Indus. Itoccupies the summit <strong>of</strong> an irregular height, the last<strong>of</strong> the broken chain over and along which we havetravelled. These hills generally r<strong>is</strong>e about onehundred feet above the plain, and have flat topswith areas <strong>of</strong> different 'extents varying from fiftyyards.square to half a mile or so. The span <strong>of</strong> rockupon which the town <strong>is</strong> built, <strong>for</strong>ms a headland projectinginto the river, and thus checks its excursionstowards the westward.The cantonment <strong>is</strong> slightly {ortified. You seebelow the town <strong>that</strong> hard dry plain composed <strong>of</strong>sandstone and covered with a debr<strong>is</strong> <strong>of</strong> iron oreinstead <strong>of</strong> the vegetable matter. one usually expectsplains to produce. At one time <strong>that</strong> <strong>was</strong> considereda good position <strong>for</strong> a large garr<strong>is</strong>on, as it commandsthe navigation <strong>of</strong> the river, would never want goodwater and supplies, and <strong>is</strong> situated in a healthyclimate near a place <strong>of</strong> some importance-the grandmart to which the wild mountaineers <strong>of</strong> Beloeh<strong>is</strong>tanresort <strong>for</strong> pleasure and pr<strong>of</strong>it. At present Jerruck<strong>is</strong> only an outpost, the garr<strong>is</strong>on cons<strong>is</strong>ting in toto <strong>of</strong>a company <strong>of</strong> sepoys detached from a regiment atHyderabad, with a solitary lieutenant to commandand drill them. Some time ago here, <strong>was</strong> the headquarterstation <strong>of</strong> the Camel Baggage Corps, a•

•188•SCENES IN SCINDE•mixture <strong>of</strong> men and beasts, very efficient in time <strong>of</strong>war, but uncommonlyexpensive in peace, compoundedby the conqueror <strong>of</strong> Scinde as a sedative to anothercomplaint in the constitution <strong>of</strong> the Indian 'army;namely, the inconceivable quantity <strong>of</strong> kit andbaggage with which we are popularly supposed to bein the habit <strong>of</strong> marching.these pet grievances are !* *We have not spent an exciting day.What terrible things**The" <strong>of</strong>ficercommanding at . Jerruck," .after receiving our<strong>of</strong>ficial reports <strong>of</strong> arrival, paid us a long v<strong>is</strong>it, but, as<strong>of</strong>ten happens, the poor fellow has become quite anOrson, and has utterly <strong>for</strong>gotten <strong>that</strong> there are anytopics <strong>of</strong> conversation but shikar-sport and h<strong>is</strong>paltan or battalion.We passed an hour or twopleasantly enough in directing our spy-glasses atthe ladies, who were d<strong>is</strong>porting themselves in themuddy waters <strong>of</strong> the" Classic."After which, wewalked through the town, were barked at by thepariah dogs, stared at and called Kaffirs by the littlechildren-blessed effects <strong>of</strong> Brit<strong>is</strong>h liberty!giggledat by certain fair dames with rogu<strong>is</strong>h eyes, andavoided by the rest <strong>of</strong> the population.not remain long in the streets:But we didI know no placewhere one <strong>of</strong> your thorough-bred continental-Engl<strong>is</strong>h

JERRUCK. 18~, .flaneurs would be more out <strong>of</strong> place than in a YoungEgypt town.Descending the western side <strong>of</strong> thehill, you remarked an attempt at sculpture, a hugem<strong>is</strong>shaped <strong>for</strong>m which I in<strong>for</strong>med you <strong>was</strong> Hanuman,the Hindoo monkey-god.And I took the opportunityto remark <strong>that</strong> the worshippers had justdecorated h<strong>is</strong> countenance with a coat <strong>of</strong> vermilion,not solely <strong>for</strong> the purpose <strong>of</strong> rouge, but as a complimentto h<strong>is</strong> baboon deityship-a practice ancientlywestern as well as eastern.Then we stood <strong>for</strong> afew minutes to see a native horseman, one <strong>of</strong> themounted police, which acts the compound rdle <strong>of</strong>gendarmerie and Cossacks in these regions, exerc<strong>is</strong>ingh<strong>is</strong> charger on the plain below j teaching him tobound <strong>of</strong>f at full speed when he felt the heel; to stopdead, with the best chance <strong>of</strong> injuring h<strong>is</strong> back sinews,when the rein <strong>was</strong> drawn; to canter over a figure<strong>of</strong> 8, gradually contracting its dimensions till thequadruped leant over at an angle <strong>of</strong> 45°.. and to galloplike mad whilst the owner threw himself over the<strong>of</strong>f-side, and hanging by h<strong>is</strong> left heel to the cantle,picked up h<strong>is</strong> spear from <strong>of</strong>f the ground.Then wereturned home to dinner, and now here we aresittingupon the banks <strong>of</strong> the Indus, and wonderingwhat we are to do next.* * * *

190 SCENES IN BCINDE.II recollect a somewhat curious event whichoccurred at Jerruck, and as it illustrat~ certain orientalstates <strong>of</strong> mind and phases <strong>of</strong> feeling which you,Mr. Bull, have long since <strong>for</strong>gotten, I will <strong>for</strong>thwithrecount it to you.Be<strong>for</strong>e Scinde <strong>was</strong> thoroughlyaettledby our bayonets, little Jerruck <strong>was</strong> committedto the safety <strong>of</strong> one Agha Khan, a Persian.noble, who,having fled h<strong>is</strong> native country in consequence <strong>of</strong> anattempt at rebellion ridw-lous even in <strong>that</strong> land <strong>of</strong>eternal ridiculous rebellions, turned condottiere, andwith h<strong>is</strong> troop <strong>of</strong> ruffians took service under us.Receiving orders to garr<strong>is</strong>on the town, the worthydescendant <strong>of</strong> the ancient Ismailiyah chiefs * atonce assumed command, <strong>is</strong>sued proclamations directingthe timid inhabitants to board and lodge hiamen grat<strong>is</strong>, levied a kind <strong>of</strong> tribute from all whocould pay it, unmercifully bullied all who could not,and, in short, invested himself with all the outwardand v<strong>is</strong>ible signs <strong>of</strong> royal rank and dignity.Some weeks the Agha spent in h<strong>is</strong> new kingdom,leading a life after Sancho Panza's ownheart Jperhaps exceeding a little in the drinking and lovemakinglines.H<strong>is</strong> followers following h<strong>is</strong> example,"eat, swilled, and played," till ;Ierruck became,,• A sect <strong>that</strong> had the power <strong>of</strong> producing the Old Man <strong>of</strong> the Mountain,<strong>of</strong> wbom Chr<strong>is</strong>tendom bas heard and read 10 much.

A TALE OF lERRUCK. 191another Nineveh on a very small scale. TheBelochies, having nothing better to do, had threatenedto attack it a dozen times or so, but theAgha laughed at their beards. Were they not hogs<strong>of</strong> Bunn<strong>is</strong>? * Had he not d<strong>is</strong>honoured all theirmothers ? And had he not done the strangeBtpossible things to their father's graves? Whosedogs were they <strong>that</strong> they should dare. to face thedeath-dealing scimitar <strong>of</strong> the Iroonee ?t-mouth the"word well.A parenthes<strong>is</strong> I Collect the noted liars andboasters, the MunchaUlenB and Gaacons <strong>of</strong> bothhem<strong>is</strong>pheres, I will back the first pure Persian Ichance to pick up against the whole field.One evening the Agha had just fin<strong>is</strong>hed h<strong>is</strong>dinner, and <strong>was</strong> preparing <strong>for</strong> a game <strong>of</strong> backgammonor chess, which he <strong>was</strong> sure to win, as noman dared to win it from him; the drinking-cupsand the bottles were ranged in & line be<strong>for</strong>e him;the musicians were twangingand howling in & comer<strong>of</strong> the room; every tl:Ung <strong>was</strong> prepared <strong>for</strong> a ~uiet"at home;"-When all <strong>of</strong> a Budden, half-mad with fear, rushed* The Agha <strong>was</strong> a Shieh-a Protestant, &8 it were, ...... a Sunni,or Roman<strong>is</strong>t.+Iran, generally pronounced Iroon, Persia ; Iroonee, a Persian.-.

192 SCENES IN SCINDE.in an un<strong>for</strong>tunate Seindee, bringing the intelligenee<strong>that</strong> a body <strong>of</strong> at least fifty thousand Belocbiestwo<strong>of</strong> the cyphers were as usual de trop-hadarrived within a mile <strong>of</strong> Jerruek, <strong>that</strong> he himselfhad seen them, and had hurried on to give the Aghawarning, lest he and h<strong>is</strong> heroes should be attackedunawares.You, Mr. Bull, or I, under such circumstances,would most probably have given the fellow a handfol<strong>of</strong> rupees, and then would have turned out to inspect •the guards, and to make preparations <strong>for</strong> a set-topossiblyd<strong>is</strong>positions <strong>for</strong> a retreat, should suchmeasure be deemed adv<strong>is</strong>able."Seize <strong>that</strong> pup <strong>of</strong> unmarried parents," roaredthe Agha in tremendous wrath; I' here with thepole! Where are the rods, ye dog-papas?"*. The attendants, thus designated, indignant 88their master at the insult which had been <strong>of</strong>fered tohim, were proportionately active in resenting it.In a moment the Scindee <strong>was</strong> on h<strong>is</strong> back janother h<strong>is</strong> ancles were lashed tight to the stout•staff supported upon two fellows' shoulders, and longbe<strong>for</strong>e the minute <strong>was</strong> over, four stout ruffians were" quilting" the un<strong>for</strong>tunate's soles and toes, even asin* A literal translation <strong>of</strong> the common address to inferiors, "baba....."

A TALE OF JERRUCK.19Supholsterers' boys in Italy beat out the stuffing <strong>of</strong>old mattresses, whilst their master stood up ejaculating,Wurin I Wurin!!* with all the dignity <strong>of</strong> aKajjar. The Agha <strong>was</strong> in no mood to be merciful,and it <strong>is</strong> a common practice among Persians whenyou prescribe a sound-flogging, to make anyone whospares the sufferer share h<strong>is</strong> fate.When at length the Scindee had fainted frompain and loss <strong>of</strong> blood, the Agha <strong>was</strong> graciouslypleased to deliver himself <strong>of</strong> a wave <strong>of</strong> the hand,which the executioners understood to signify <strong>that</strong> afJUIJ'lttum sufficit <strong>of</strong> chast<strong>is</strong>ement had been admin<strong>is</strong>tered." And what <strong>was</strong> he chast<strong>is</strong>ed <strong>for</strong>? "What <strong>for</strong>? <strong>for</strong> the abominable crime <strong>of</strong> showingh<strong>is</strong> belief <strong>that</strong> child <strong>of</strong> man could possibly be soaudacious as to conceive the project <strong>of</strong> attackingsuch a personage as Agha Khan.Two hundred years ago, Mr. Bull, you would nothave put the question. Let us refer back .to theh<strong>is</strong>tory <strong>of</strong> your own <strong>is</strong>land <strong>for</strong> a pro<strong>of</strong>. None willdo better than a short extract from old Andrew deWyntoun's "Orygynale Cronykil" <strong>of</strong> Scotland.* "Strike!" The word <strong>is</strong> Turk<strong>is</strong>h, a language preferred by thepresent ruling family <strong>of</strong> Persia, who are Kajjar Turks, on account <strong>of</strong> itasevere and dignified sonorousness.VOL. LIt

194 BOENEB IN BCINDE.When David II., after nine or ten years' captivityin the so-called merry England, <strong>was</strong> ransomed by biBnobles, he journeyed northward, and arrived withthe slendereit <strong>of</strong> retinues at Berwick, where---It Upon the morn when heShould wend, till h<strong>is</strong> counsel privyThe folk, as they were wont to do,Pressed right rudely in thereto.But he right suddenly can arraceOm<strong>of</strong>ama~tsmmda~,And said rudely, 'How do we now1'Stand still, or the proudest <strong>of</strong> youShall on the head have with th<strong>is</strong> mace 1"In the nineteenth century you are d<strong>is</strong>posed tothink <strong>that</strong> the "just Kynge Davie" <strong>was</strong> guilty <strong>of</strong> agross outrage in threatening to crack the polls <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> subjects, who, after doing so much <strong>for</strong>, werepressing <strong>for</strong>ward to see and greet their ransomedsovereign; and you cannot but wonder how thepriestly bard brings himself to justify h<strong>is</strong> liege'sviolence by a long encomium upon the subject <strong>of</strong>" radure" (rigour):-" Badure in Prince <strong>is</strong> a good thing:For, but radure, all governingShall all times but desp<strong>is</strong>ed be."In Scinde still, as in England whilome, if you donot occasionallyshake the bit in the animal's mouth,

A TALE OF JERRUCK. 195and admin<strong>is</strong>ter a severe twitch or two to remind him<strong>that</strong> he has a master, be <strong>is</strong> sorely apt to <strong>for</strong>get thefact, or to remember itwith the intention <strong>of</strong> changingplaces with <strong>that</strong> master the first opportunity <strong>that</strong>presents itself.But you have had time to bury such barbar<strong>is</strong>msin oblivion. When the late Pacha <strong>of</strong> Egypt <strong>was</strong>dying you wondered excessively what could be theuse <strong>of</strong> a proclamation which threatened instantdecapitation to any man <strong>that</strong> dared assert the ruler<strong>was</strong> defunct. We semi-orientals understood theobject <strong>of</strong> it perfectly well. In many Eastern countriesthe moment the throne becomes vacant, all thecanaille and mauvaia sujets <strong>of</strong> the different cities, andall the wild tribes in their vicinity, begin to run riot,to rob, rav<strong>is</strong>h, and plunder atort et atravers; andthe successor to the vacant seat <strong>of</strong> dignity, after probablya year's hard fighting, ending with a dearlybought victory, which enables him to blind a scoreor two <strong>of</strong> uncles, brothers, cousins, and other kinsmen,has to march an army against h<strong>is</strong> own subjects,with the unpleasant necessity <strong>of</strong> dimin<strong>is</strong>hing theirnumbers by the axe, the cord, and the stake, and <strong>of</strong>injuring h<strong>is</strong> revenue by leading a host <strong>of</strong> humanlocusts through the land.However, to conclude my tale <strong>of</strong> Agha Khan:K2

196 SCENES IN BCINDE.Scarcely had the wretched Scindian's laceratedstumps been stuck in a neighbouring dunghill-therecogn<strong>is</strong>ed treatment <strong>for</strong> the complaint under whichhe <strong>was</strong> labouring-when down came the Belocbiesupon Jerruck in the most ferocious and rapacious <strong>of</strong>moods. Finding no arrangements made to opposethem, they scaled the puddle parapet, dashed intothe town, cut to pieces every beardless man* theymet, and although they failed to secure the augustperson <strong>of</strong> the Agha, they did not fail to appropriatethe contents <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> cellar and harem. The potentatelost much valuable property in wines and otherliquors. It <strong>was</strong> not be<strong>for</strong>e some weeks afterwards<strong>that</strong> he recovered h<strong>is</strong> wives; and when hedid, he did not appreciate the value <strong>of</strong> the goodsin question.Jerruck <strong>is</strong> about one hundred miles along the-road from Kurrachee. We have now left behindLar or Lower Scinde. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> Wicholo,t the ct centralregion." You can feel <strong>that</strong> we are travellingnorthwards; the air becomes sensibly drier, and inthe nights and mornings more biting. During the* Young Persians, like tbe Turk<strong>is</strong>h soldiery, generally ahave the beard.t Our geographers usually divide the proyince into two parts, Upperand Lower Scinde ; the point <strong>of</strong> demarcation being Halehkandi, a town.ituated a few miles north <strong>of</strong> Hyderabad. The natives, with more topographicalcorrectneu, d<strong>is</strong>tribute it into three eli.meta.

WICHOLO. 197summer season the mid-day heats are more violent,as the last breath <strong>of</strong> the sea breeze <strong>is</strong> exhaled uponthe plain <strong>of</strong> Tattah.*• Some will tell you it reaches Hyderabad: 1 cannot, however, .y<strong>that</strong> I ever felt it north <strong>of</strong> Tattah.

198 SCENES IN SCINDE.CHAPTER XI.KOTREE. - A COMEDY OF BAGGAGE-BEASTS. - THEINTRENCHED CAMP-HYDERA.BAD.A SKETCHcountry ?No, Mr. Bull.<strong>of</strong> the h<strong>is</strong>tory and geography <strong>of</strong> theIn the first place, the subjectshave been exhausted by a host <strong>of</strong> industrious Oriental<strong>is</strong>ts.Secondly, theirfailures in interesting you, andthe per Be deadly uninteresting nature <strong>of</strong> the theme,do imperatively <strong>for</strong>bid my making the attempt.Oriental h<strong>is</strong>tory,* sir, may be separated into tw<strong>of</strong>orms <strong>of</strong> matter.The ancient <strong>is</strong> a collection <strong>of</strong>wildly imaginative and most unartful legends andtraditions, <strong>preserved</strong> or invented by individuals whowere like old Livy'a authorities--- (l <strong>for</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>oundAnd solid lying much renowned; "from the mighty mass <strong>of</strong> which dross and rubb<strong>is</strong>h.. These remarks are mainly intended u a general character <strong>of</strong>Oriental H<strong>is</strong>toriography.

ORIENTAL HISTORY. 199no workman less cunning than Niebuhr or ·Arnoldcould extract the-smallest quantity <strong>of</strong> ore.The chronicles <strong>of</strong> the times <strong>that</strong> range withinauthenticity, are masses <strong>of</strong> proper names connectedby a string <strong>of</strong> adventure spun out with peculiar fineness- impartially told as the most unimportantevents are, at least as diffusedly detailed as the mostimportant-abounding in digressions so unskilfullymanaged <strong>that</strong> you must fail to d<strong>is</strong>cover when theauthor starts <strong>for</strong> or returns from h<strong>is</strong> bye-way trip;prolix where they should be conc<strong>is</strong>e, and compendiouswhere minuteness <strong>is</strong> desirable, full <strong>of</strong> the valuelessfacts <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>tory, void <strong>of</strong> the invaluable philosophy <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong>tory, and generally deficient in all <strong>that</strong> highlyeducated Europe has determined to be the "duty <strong>of</strong>a w<strong>is</strong>e and worthy writer <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>tory."As an instance: "In short, after the capture <strong>of</strong>Alor, the metropol<strong>is</strong> <strong>of</strong> the province,all the dependentstates becoming tranquil, the people returned to theirusual avocations, and felt grateful to Mohammedbin Kasim, He constituted Harun the son <strong>of</strong> Ka<strong>is</strong>,the son <strong>of</strong> Rawah, the Asidi, governor <strong>of</strong> Alor, andwith the dignity <strong>of</strong> Kazi he invested Musa, the son<strong>of</strong> Yakrib, the son <strong>of</strong> Tai, the son <strong>of</strong> Nashban, theson <strong>of</strong> Usman, the Sakufi; and he constitutedWidah, the son <strong>of</strong> Ahmed, the Nejdi, commandant

200 SCENES IN SCINDE.<strong>of</strong> the city <strong>of</strong> Brahmanabad, and he gave the <strong>for</strong>t <strong>of</strong>Rawur to N aubat, the son <strong>of</strong> Daraz, and the land <strong>of</strong>Korah to Bazl, the son <strong>of</strong> Halawi.Then he turnedtowards Multan, and on h<strong>is</strong> wayarrived at the strongholdcalled Bahijeh, whenceKulsur, the son <strong>of</strong>Chandra, the son <strong>of</strong> Silabij, a cousin <strong>of</strong> Dahir's, andh<strong>is</strong> enemy, came <strong>for</strong>th and tendered h<strong>is</strong> allegiance.After <strong>that</strong>, they conquered the <strong>for</strong>t <strong>of</strong> Sakar andleft Attah the son <strong>of</strong> 1umahi to command it.Thenseizing Multan and all its dependencies, <strong>for</strong>ts, strongholdsand other places, Kazimah the son <strong>of</strong> Abd-el­Malik, the son <strong>of</strong> Tamim, <strong>was</strong> left at Mahpur, andDaud, the son <strong>of</strong> Muss, the son <strong>of</strong>Walid, the Hammami,being a trustworthy man, <strong>was</strong>appointed.governor <strong>of</strong> Multan."Now Brahmanabad-a wrong name by the by*­<strong>was</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the principal cities in Scinde, and the<strong>for</strong>tress <strong>of</strong> Multan has ever been the "key<strong>of</strong> WesternIndia."Yet the author d<strong>is</strong>m<strong>is</strong>ses them summarilyas he does unknown Rawur or obscure Bahijah.The rhyming chroniclers - as amongst us inancient times there are poetic h<strong>is</strong>torians in the East-may be character<strong>is</strong>ed as a body <strong>of</strong> court flatterers,who select <strong>for</strong> their uninteresting effusions, sometr Because the word <strong>is</strong> partly Sanscrit, partly Persian; consequently,not Scindian.

ORIENTAL HISTORY. 201theme which sounds musical enough in the .prince'sears to provoke h<strong>is</strong> liberality.Both, poetic and prosaic, are full <strong>of</strong> such "vehement,iterated, and unblushing" falsehoods <strong>that</strong> theperusal <strong>of</strong> their pages' presently becomes a painfultask.And, finally, there <strong>is</strong> a fatiguing monotony in thevery stuff <strong>of</strong> Oriental h<strong>is</strong>tory. Invariably somehumble hero, or small statesman ra<strong>is</strong>es himself inthe world by h<strong>is</strong> good sword, pen; or tongue. Eitherhe or h<strong>is</strong> son dethrones an effete dynasty, and withthe full consent <strong>of</strong> the people, constitutes himselftheir rightful despot.In the course <strong>of</strong> three <strong>generations</strong>the new family grows old, imitates their predecessors,and produces nothing but a swarm <strong>of</strong>villains, cowards, and debauchees; the last <strong>of</strong> whom<strong>is</strong>,with rigid retributive justice, in due time dethronedby some other small statesman or humble hero.And so on.The h<strong>is</strong>tory and geography <strong>of</strong> Scinde in the oldentime, are equally and exceedingly unsat<strong>is</strong>factory.The country contains few memorials <strong>of</strong> by-goneages, and no monuments <strong>of</strong> antiquity from whichwe moderns may pick up gleanings <strong>of</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mation.Hindoo writers are all but silent upon the subject,infinitely as it interests their race.The Moslem1t3

202 8CBR1IS IN SClNDI.accounts <strong>of</strong> it, commence in the first century <strong>of</strong> theHijrah. Concerning the mighty torrent <strong>of</strong> S&DICrit­~g peoplewho, three tho1l8aDd years be<strong>for</strong>e ourrace, poured from the bleak hills and blooming valley.<strong>of</strong> Central Asia, to deluge the plains <strong>of</strong>India, nothingbut the bare fact has descended to us. Betweenthetrips"hiehthe Macedonians made down the Sindhu,*and the march <strong>of</strong> the Moslem up ita banks there i.ahopelea blank <strong>of</strong> eleren centuries. Though pauedand repassed by each eountlees horde th:at hurried toenrich and enjoy it8ell in-" The land <strong>of</strong>fatal wealth and charms,"Dot an inscription or even a Itone remains in thecountry to mark a single circumstance.The province<strong>is</strong> a sloping surface <strong>of</strong> silt and sand, throughwhich the Indus cuts its varying way with a facility.<strong>that</strong> puses description.A few feet <strong>of</strong> brickworkbuilt up in the bed might diverge the stream intoanother channel, cause the decline and downfall <strong>of</strong>a metropol<strong>is</strong> and twenty towns, convert a region <strong>of</strong>gardens into a silt desert, and tranfer plenty andpopulation to what a month be<strong>for</strong>e <strong>was</strong> a glaring<strong>was</strong>te.As regards the ancient course <strong>of</strong> the Lower Indus,* The Indus,

THE DELTAS OF THE INDUS. 203infinite has been the speculation, the theor<strong>is</strong>ation,the d<strong>is</strong>sertation, the argument, and the contradictionupon th<strong>is</strong> much vexed, and now most vexatious subject.But l<strong>is</strong>ten to the voice <strong>of</strong> reason, as proceedingfrom one Dr. Lord.*"The river d<strong>is</strong>charges 800 cubic feet <strong>of</strong> mud inevery second <strong>of</strong> time; or a quantity which in sevenmonths would suffice to <strong>for</strong>m an <strong>is</strong>land 42 miles long,27 miles broad, and 40 feet deep; which (the meandepth <strong>of</strong> the sea on the coast being five fathoms),would consequently be elevated 10 feet above thesurface <strong>of</strong> the water.Any person who chooses torun out th<strong>is</strong> calculation to hundreds and thousands<strong>of</strong> years will be able to sat<strong>is</strong>fy himself <strong>that</strong> muchmay be done by causes at present in action towardsmanufacturing Deltas."* * * *<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> morning we pass over the long 1Iat whichoccupies the right bank <strong>of</strong> the river.The countrylooks less barren and desolate; there are fewer heaps<strong>of</strong> drifted sand in sight, and there <strong>is</strong> some verdurebesides <strong>that</strong> <strong>of</strong> Euphorbia, Asclepias, Parkinsonia,Cappar<strong>is</strong>, Tamar<strong>is</strong>k, and wild Indigo.We acknowledgethe presence <strong>of</strong> fields-little square places, inlines <strong>of</strong> ra<strong>is</strong>ed clay, to contain and d<strong>is</strong>tribute the• In hi' " Memoir on the Plain <strong>of</strong> the Indus."

20" 8CENgS IN 8OINDE.fertil<strong>is</strong>ing fluid drawn up by the Persian wheelafrom the cuts and canals <strong>that</strong> branch <strong>of</strong>f from themain stream.At th<strong>is</strong> season there <strong>is</strong> nothing butthe stubble <strong>of</strong> maize and millet, wheat and barley;upon the hard, dry ground.But large scatteredvillages stud the plain, and the inhabitants lookhealthy and well-doing compared with the pallid,squalid, meagre wretches in the Delta, who afterevery sentence complain <strong>of</strong> " Ghano Tap."*To-day's encamping ground <strong>is</strong> an execrable one,close to an expanse <strong>of</strong> ribbed sand, and slimy pools,whence the waters <strong>of</strong> the inundation have justretired; and far enough from any town or village toprevent our procuring what man need never want inthe East-milk.we best can.We. must endure the d<strong>is</strong>com<strong>for</strong>t asTo-morrow we reach Kotree.* * * *There lies our destination-a thick grove <strong>of</strong> datetrees clothing the right side <strong>of</strong> the stream, with afew scattered bungalows built in and about it, adirty bazaar <strong>of</strong> mud huts, <strong>that</strong>ched with palmettoleaves, crowded with dirtier natives, and a number<strong>of</strong> small flat-bottomed steamers anchored below thebank. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the chief station <strong>of</strong> the Indus Flotilla,a branch <strong>of</strong> the Indian Navy or Bombay Marine,• A terrible fever.

KOTREE. 205appropriated to the navigation <strong>of</strong> the river whosename it bears. For the protection <strong>of</strong> the storesand the defence <strong>of</strong> Kotree, there ex<strong>is</strong>ts, as you maysee, a small <strong>for</strong>t, <strong>of</strong> oriental or medieeval shape--one<strong>of</strong> those straight-curtained, ditchless, round-toweredglac<strong>is</strong>-less things, under the walls <strong>of</strong> which i.dead ground enough' <strong>for</strong> a couple <strong>of</strong> regiments todine in perfect safety. It has a habit <strong>of</strong> falling, too ;there are no white ants hereabouts, it <strong>is</strong> said, butthe saltpetre in the sun-dried bricks ruins buildingsquite as quickly as those Lilliputian miners could do.You now know the d<strong>is</strong>com<strong>for</strong>t <strong>of</strong> arriving at acivil<strong>is</strong>ed place. On the road, we .sometimes find"Traveller's Bungalows;" here, as at Kurrachee,Hyderabad, and Sukkur-in fact, wherever they aremost required-there <strong>is</strong> certainly none. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> ageneral rule throughout Western India; you arejustified in "remarking <strong>that</strong> the sooner it <strong>is</strong> brokenthrough the better. Our servants having done theirduty, as they imagine, in pitching our tents, start<strong>for</strong> the bazaar, leaving a "cook-boy" to serve upour breakfasts, and a single horsekeeper to waitupon both our nags. Probably they will not return<strong>for</strong> half the day; and when they do, it will be in astate <strong>of</strong> pronounced inebriation, quarrelling, fighting,and manifesting many other unpleasant consequences

206 SCENES IN SCINDE.<strong>of</strong> sacrificing to Oriental Bacchus.In the jungle,our minds are at rest; in the camp they are excited,restless, uneasy. There are compatriotu withinhail; there <strong>is</strong> a library, a billiard-room, a mesa, anacquaintance or two, ladies; but how are we to leavethe tents r AB the place <strong>is</strong> somewhat civil<strong>is</strong>ed, 80 it<strong>is</strong> literally full <strong>of</strong> plunderers: we shall be lucky ifeven our presence prevents their depredations.Opportunely appears a little illustration <strong>of</strong> theKotree's character, 88 by me drawn.A thief haabeen taken <strong>for</strong> judgment be<strong>for</strong>e the Deputy Collectorand mag<strong>is</strong>trate; h<strong>is</strong> case <strong>was</strong> entered into and d<strong>is</strong>posed<strong>of</strong> in about ten minutes-law proceedings hereare not lengthy just now-and sentenceupon him, he has been led out <strong>for</strong> pun<strong>is</strong>hment.passedThe fellow's brawny back-he <strong>is</strong> an African slave-<strong>is</strong> bared; h<strong>is</strong> arms and legs are tightly lashed toone <strong>of</strong> the wooden posts which support the <strong>of</strong>ficial'sverandah.Then a belted Peon,* scourge in hand,Works at the black shagreen with all h<strong>is</strong> might.The dignitary himself <strong>is</strong> there, with a jockey capand 8cheroot in h<strong>is</strong> mouth, to superintend thechast<strong>is</strong>ement, and give a "moral effect" to thescene.But though he urges the willing lasher, andthere are signs <strong>that</strong> the d<strong>is</strong>cipline <strong>is</strong> severe enough,•• An attendant upon <strong>of</strong>ficial personages in India.

.A COMEDY or BAGGAGE-BEASTS. 207the slave scarcely takes the trouble <strong>of</strong> flinching, and"hen at times he howls, it <strong>is</strong> rather in der<strong>is</strong>ion thanin deprecation.H<strong>is</strong> friends and fellow-countrymen,eoalheavers to the Flotilla, stand in a crowd, laughingand chatting together: they have tasted Engl<strong>is</strong>hliberty <strong>for</strong> a few months, and are now impudent 81London cads or an old noblewoman's pet courier..* * * *The sooner we leave Kotree the better.Ourcamels and horses, raw animals, are not much usedto the passage <strong>of</strong> riven: there will be many a SCeMbe<strong>for</strong>e the ferry lands us on the opposite bank.First come the camel-men-two mountaineers,four feet and 8 half high, and almost as broad &8they are long;bandy-legged little monsters, withbroad faces, flat features, swart skins, shaggy beards,and scowls <strong>that</strong> seem to engross the business <strong>of</strong>their countenances-to swear <strong>that</strong> their beasts neverhave entered a boat, and, par consequence, <strong>that</strong> theynever will.Not noticing the fallacy <strong>of</strong> the ergo, webriefly reply <strong>that</strong> they must, and thus the prologueconcludes.Opens act number one, with a camel-fight.Thebeasts are huddled in a herd upon the bank, and,not knowing what to do, a pair <strong>of</strong> the biggest spontaneouslyengage in single combat.They are very

208 SCENES 1N SCINDE.like Germans in one point; usually most placid andimperturbable, now <strong>that</strong> they are excited, theybecome very devils, biting and bellowing, pushing andkicking, with an activity <strong>that</strong> amazes, and a violence<strong>that</strong> startles one. Act the first will conclude, aftermany a shifting scene, with a tremendous drubbingupon the heads, ribs, and quarters <strong>of</strong> the principalper<strong>for</strong>mers by the clubs <strong>of</strong> the enraged proprietairu.Act the second opens with a ,t lively seene"­embarkation.ta1Jleau.The stage <strong>is</strong> thus decorated <strong>for</strong> theA quantitY <strong>of</strong> earth <strong>is</strong> taken from the bank, and80 d<strong>is</strong>posed, <strong>that</strong> a very inclined plane may lead downto the water's edge. Then an animal <strong>is</strong> induced toadvance; h<strong>is</strong> driver, standing in the ferry-boat, haulsat the nose strings, whilst the beast, h<strong>is</strong> tail bornepug-dog fashion, and h<strong>is</strong> vocal organs in fullestactivity, stretches h<strong>is</strong> long neck, and lengthens allh<strong>is</strong> limbs with a pertinacity and a determination notto move, over which nothing but a perfect storm. <strong>of</strong>blows on flank and haunch can prevail. At times,holding back and roaring, now with some reason: attimes slipping and plunging, the patient at lengthreaches the gap <strong>that</strong> separates bank from boat.Another furious struggle. More obstinacy. Nothingwill persuade him to ra<strong>is</strong>e h<strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong>eleg and plant foot

upon the ferry.A COMEDY OF BAGGAGE-BEASTS. 209He kicks and flounders, now fallinginto the water himself now pushing half a dozen <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> assailants into it.At last, a cord <strong>is</strong> tied roundthe ancle <strong>of</strong> the near arm; four men drag at it.dozen,-the mob <strong>of</strong> idlers, gathered around us <strong>is</strong>beginning to take an interest in the struggle,-pushh<strong>is</strong> buttocks with both hands, and hammer at anyvacant space with their sticks and f<strong>is</strong>ts, screaming,commanding, abusing, and retorting, till main <strong>for</strong>cedrives him boggling, stamping, scrambling, andfloundering into the boat, where h<strong>is</strong> nostrils aretwitched and h<strong>is</strong> long shins are kicked, till he findsit adv<strong>is</strong>able to kneel in all humility.AWith our tencamels, th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> the play will take four hours.Act the third and last. The horses appear. Most<strong>of</strong> them hop cleverly over the ferry's side, and takeup the position allotted to them as readily as ifentering their stalls. But <strong>that</strong> surly Affghan yaboo *<strong>of</strong> yours <strong>is</strong> not accustomed to such a luxury <strong>of</strong> travel,and perversely obstinate as an animal <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> veryMoslem nation might be expected to prove himselfhe will have nothing to do with the strange refinement.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> our men can easily correct. To preventh<strong>is</strong> lashing out, they tie a rope to one <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong>elegsand pull it till the member in question assumes the* A pony.

2]0 SCENES IN SCINDlL•legitimate and classical, equestrian statue-<strong>for</strong>m. Thentwo hone-keepers, seizing a long pole, apply themiddle <strong>of</strong>itto the recusanrs hinder region, and ahcwetill he has nothing to do but either to fall headlongupon h<strong>is</strong> nose, 01' to jump into the boat. He <strong>is</strong> II1lreto choose the latter alternative, and after five 01' IIixrepetitions <strong>of</strong> the exerc<strong>is</strong>e, it will become quitefamiliar to him. ..Concluding with the epilogue-a largess <strong>of</strong> c0ppersto the crowd, we also C1"088. Observe the <strong>for</strong>ce<strong>of</strong> the current, how it carries our conveyance downthe stream.You may see its migratory habits also:witness <strong>that</strong> gentleman's horse, once twenty yudBfrom the bank, now seen in Upaccato one half in, theother out <strong>of</strong>, the river. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the Entrenched Camp:the field-works, which 811lTOuud it, have given it aname.That humble building, somewhat in the <strong>for</strong>m<strong>of</strong> a six dozen claret-chest, magnified and white<strong>was</strong>hed,with the barren court on the east, and agarden, grove, and sundry small bungalows to thesouth, <strong>is</strong> the Agency, still memorable <strong>for</strong> the gallantdefence made by a company <strong>of</strong> Brit<strong>is</strong>h soldiers*against a host <strong>of</strong> enraged Belochies,It <strong>is</strong> about three miles from the Entrenched Camp• The Light Company or H.M:e 22d Regiment, commanded by CaptainConway.

HYDERABAD. 211to Hyderabad, along a dusty, rutty slip <strong>of</strong> plain,ealled a road, planted with trees, which, if wateredand not eaten by goats, will shadow the next genemtion,across the normalsouthem Scinde country, anetwork <strong>of</strong>canals and watercourses spread over stragglingcrops <strong>of</strong> thorns and fir plants. The approachto the town <strong>is</strong> picturesque. We emerge from a littlegrove: OD the left, <strong>is</strong> a hi).l. crowned by a native <strong>for</strong>tification,with the gaudy shrine <strong>of</strong> Shah Mekkai,and a cluster <strong>of</strong> houses _at its foot. To our right, theburial-ground, a square enclosure, above whose wallsappear the tops <strong>of</strong> many tombs, and in front, theroad <strong>that</strong> separates the town from its protecting <strong>for</strong>t,winds up the steep and stony hill.Hyderabad, lately the capital <strong>of</strong>.Scinde, occupiesthe centre <strong>of</strong> a little <strong>is</strong>land, <strong>for</strong>med by the Indus andone <strong>of</strong> its multitudinous branches, the Fulailee. Thesite <strong>of</strong> the city <strong>is</strong> a low chain <strong>of</strong> limestone hills r<strong>is</strong>inga few feet above the alluvial plain: thefancied advantagesto be derived from commanding ground, probablypointed it out 88 a fit place- <strong>for</strong> a settlement inancient times.The town contains nothing <strong>that</strong> merits description.It <strong>is</strong> a mass <strong>of</strong> flat-ro<strong>of</strong>ed houses and sloping-ro<strong>of</strong>ed .huts, separated by narrow, dark, dusty, or muddystreets and alleys, with here and there a dome and a

212 SCENES IN SCINDE.. .minaret, a crowded bazaar, and a heap <strong>of</strong> ruins.Theprincipal habitations are two or many-storied, extensivestructures, with naked, glassless windows placedjealously high up, and dependent courtyards carefullyinvested with stiff-looking walls <strong>of</strong> puddle orunbaked bricks.verandahs.Almost all tenements boast <strong>of</strong>Except in the market-places, there <strong>is</strong> little or nobustle in the city, and, as we ride through it, thepeople, accustomed to the presence <strong>of</strong> Europeans,scarcely stand to stare at the endemic It calamity," *to whose horrors habit has hardened them. Theladies know it <strong>is</strong> useless to beckon us, the fakirs havelearned the fallacy <strong>of</strong> begging from us; the curshave <strong>for</strong>gotten to bark at us, and the infant populationto taunt us with infidelity.Every here and therewe see a knot <strong>of</strong> seapoys chaffering in the bazaar,and <strong>of</strong>ficers' servants sauntering about in the luxury<strong>of</strong> indolence,-we feel <strong>that</strong> we are in a " Station."The Fort <strong>of</strong> Hyderabad, conspicuous from afar byits l<strong>of</strong>ty round bastion or watch-tower,-a windmilllikestructure <strong>of</strong> huge proportions, erroneously supposedto have been the treasury <strong>of</strong> the Ameers,-<strong>is</strong>built upon the southern spur <strong>of</strong> the long, narrow,rocky ridge on which the city stands.• In Arabic and Persian, "bab1," any 8trange portent.Its <strong>for</strong>m <strong>is</strong>

FORT OF HYDERABAD. 213an irregular oval, about three quarters <strong>of</strong> a mile incircumference. It <strong>is</strong> girt by l<strong>of</strong>ty, crumbling, illburnt,brick revetements, thick at the base,' thin atthe crest, and supporting inside a quantity <strong>of</strong> earth,piled upon the natural rock. They look as if a fewrounds <strong>of</strong> grape would level them with the plain,­an appearance the reverse <strong>of</strong> deceitful,-th<strong>is</strong> boastedstronghold <strong>of</strong> the boastful Talpur, being one <strong>of</strong> theweakest amongst the strong-seeming <strong>for</strong>tresses <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong>bit <strong>of</strong> Asia. On the northern side, 8 trench separatesthe citadel from the town; it <strong>is</strong> crossed by a bridge,leading to one <strong>of</strong> those perversely intricate gateways<strong>that</strong> have always yielded to a coup de main: everywhereelse <strong>is</strong> level ground. There are few embrasures<strong>for</strong> large guns. No angles, no outworks: thespear-head battlement <strong>of</strong> Persia runs along the crestto shelter matchlock-men, and down the height <strong>of</strong>the wall are lines <strong>of</strong>-what our Iranian neighbourscall dam8.gheh-nostrils-apertures, which act asdrains and loopholes combined.The citadel <strong>was</strong> at once the place <strong>of</strong> defence, thetreasury, and the palace <strong>of</strong> the native rulers. Theinterior resembles a small town, 8 Haute-ville; it hasits promenade round the ramparts, its streets andthoroughfares, its squares and guards, its mosques,its shops and booths, its lines and its barracks.

214 SCENES IN BOIND!.Many <strong>of</strong> the houses, once the abodes <strong>of</strong> royalty, arespacious and convenient, especially since glass doorsand lattices have started into being.The ground plan <strong>of</strong> a Hyderabad palace <strong>is</strong> th<strong>is</strong>.You enter by a low door-more generally by a doorwaywithout a door-opening from a narrow laneinto a quadrangular court-yard', on your right- <strong>is</strong> theprivate chapel, a low wall subtended by a stuccoedfloor; opposite you, the stables; on the left are thekitchen, <strong>of</strong>fices, and servants' huts; the fourth side<strong>is</strong> occupied by the body <strong>of</strong> the house.The dwellingplacecons<strong>is</strong>ts <strong>of</strong> an open verandah, with pillars, anda parapet in front.The state or men's apartmentsmeet you as you enter; the ladies' rooms are unde:rarrest behind them.Dwarf doors connect the differentdiv<strong>is</strong>ions, and the whole interior <strong>is</strong> purposelymade as dark as possible, to obviate glare and secureprivacy.Some rooms are elegantly stuccoed andelaborately painted with coloured arabesques, somewhatlike our stencilling, <strong>that</strong> gives a Moor<strong>is</strong>h lookto the scene; in the ceilings <strong>of</strong> the richest housesthere must have been at one time a quantity <strong>of</strong> gildingand expensive ornaments.In the inner wallsare a number <strong>of</strong> niches, and when I first saw themnot a few holes; <strong>for</strong> the Ameers and their courtiersbeingtaken by surpr<strong>is</strong>e by the result <strong>of</strong> " Meeanee,"

HYDERABAD TREASURE. 215deposited more Asiatico their gold bars and jewels inboxes, which they buried under the thresholds, inthe walls <strong>of</strong> the houses, and in other places which aWestern would seldom v<strong>is</strong>it with the hope <strong>of</strong> findinga treasure.caused abundant harmlessconquerors.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> fact become generally known;excitement among theEuropeans as well as natives did nothing<strong>for</strong> six months but diligently rap with staves everyfoot <strong>of</strong> stucco to infer by the sound whether the spot<strong>was</strong> hollow, and, consequently, worth the trouble <strong>of</strong>breaking into.We are well in the region <strong>of</strong> ventilators; you eeethem on every ro<strong>of</strong>-diminutive screens <strong>of</strong> masonry,<strong>for</strong>ming acute angles with the apertures over whichthey project.The wind rushing down a passage in• the wall, enters the room by a slit on the level <strong>of</strong> thefloor, generally, in these days, cooling a bottle <strong>of</strong>pale ale as it passes.There <strong>is</strong> one great d<strong>is</strong>advan- •tage in these "breeze-catches," as they are called;in bo<strong>is</strong>terous weather they make your domicilea dusthole.Un<strong>for</strong>tunately <strong>for</strong> its conquerors, Hyderabacl<strong>is</strong> not far north enough to know the luxury <strong>of</strong> Tab.khanas-underground rooms, in which you may p_the awful length <strong>of</strong> a summer's day, dozing as cOollyand com<strong>for</strong>tably as if you were on the Rhine or inthe Pyrenees.

216 SCENES IN SCINDE.The ramparts command an extensive view <strong>of</strong> theneighbouring country. Many villages, sparklinglike comelians amidst the emerald green <strong>of</strong> theN eem*tree, stud the wide plain <strong>of</strong> black dust. Youcan trace on one side the course <strong>of</strong> the Fulaileeriver, winding through the wintry, barren flat; onthe other, the broad Indus, with its buttress <strong>of</strong> rockyhill in the background. Be<strong>for</strong>e you lies a deD88array <strong>of</strong> houses, here sinking into suburbs <strong>that</strong> :fine.<strong>of</strong>f into gardens, there br<strong>is</strong>tling over the ridge till itends in the stray <strong>was</strong>te, where the lines <strong>of</strong> the soldieryand the houses <strong>of</strong> the Collectors are. Thosed<strong>is</strong>tant domes <strong>of</strong> glittering white marble are thesepulchres <strong>of</strong> certain Kalhora Princes. There <strong>is</strong> arace-course, as usual in India; and I suppose, atsome time or other, there will be a church. Beneathyou <strong>is</strong> the burial-ground;-how fearfully full it <strong>is</strong>,.. considering the few years <strong>that</strong> has populated it IThere appears one <strong>of</strong> the causes <strong>of</strong> its repletion-asheet <strong>of</strong> water, the remnant <strong>of</strong> last summer's inundation,thick as a horse-pond below, beautifully verdantabove, on a bed <strong>of</strong> slimy mud, amidst banks <strong>of</strong> darkpurple mire.Isit not wonderful,-I beg no pardon<strong>for</strong> digressing,-sir, <strong>that</strong> in such a Sierra Leone as th<strong>is</strong>, more care <strong>is</strong>• The Melia .AzadiracAtcl.

WANT OF CJ~EANLINESS. 217not taken to secure health? At Kurrachee, withina few hundred yards <strong>of</strong> the cantonment, the corpses<strong>of</strong> fifty camels are allowed to lie and fester, and feedthe jackalls, and po<strong>is</strong>on the air, as if a little moredeath were really wanting. Tattah <strong>is</strong> a mass <strong>of</strong>filth, and here we have th<strong>is</strong> miasma-breeding poolas close to the walls as a junior ensign could desire.How impress upon th<strong>is</strong> Anglo-Indian mind theparamount importance <strong>of</strong> drainage and cleanliness?Were I ever to command a station, no Dutch village,no Chandemagore,* should be more scrupulously,more prigg<strong>is</strong>hly clean. Woe to the man <strong>that</strong> thenthrows h<strong>is</strong> dead cat over h<strong>is</strong> neighbour's hedge!Alas <strong>for</strong> him <strong>that</strong> allows h<strong>is</strong> un<strong>was</strong>hed Portuguesecook to empty the surplus <strong>of</strong> the kitchen into the pit<strong>that</strong> now acts sink and sewer IWalking round the battlements we see, half waydown the steps <strong>that</strong> lead to the wicket, a. large wellor two cut deep in the solid rock. There <strong>is</strong> somethingremarkable in their appearance; the natives,as <strong>is</strong> the wont <strong>of</strong> savages when anything, natural orartificial, strikes them, assign to them a highlyfanciful origin. These are the works <strong>of</strong> demon hands,excavations made in the stone at a time when an* A little French settlement in Eaatem India, celebrated <strong>for</strong> cleanliness,and, consequently, remarkable <strong>for</strong> healthfulneu.W~LL

218 SCENES IN SOINDE••idol worshipper <strong>was</strong> Lord <strong>of</strong> Nirunkot,* <strong>for</strong> the fellpurpose <strong>of</strong> incarcerating <strong>that</strong> holy personage whosemortal remains rest in yonder shrine.Here <strong>is</strong> the legend:- .There <strong>was</strong> errantry in the East when Islam arose.Combative individuals with brains about equal tothose <strong>of</strong> the animals they bestrode; churchmenmilitant with the thews and sinews<strong>of</strong>baggage camels," furious knights" like him <strong>of</strong> More Hall, whoIt Could wrestle, play at quarterstaff, kick, cuff, and huff;Call son <strong>of</strong> a dog, do any kind <strong>of</strong> thing,"composed an order almost as honourable and 81honoured as any in the host <strong>of</strong> our western chivalry.Only instead <strong>of</strong> devoting themselves to bemaul allwho could or would not acknowledge the personalsnperiority <strong>of</strong> a Lady Bell<strong>is</strong>ance or a Dulcinea, theypricked o'er the plain pounding the skulls and piercingthe bodies <strong>of</strong> those wretches whose opaqne mindsrefused to be enlightened by the dazzling glories <strong>of</strong>the apothegm-" Mohammed <strong>is</strong> the Prophet <strong>of</strong> theLord."It <strong>is</strong>, however..pleasurable to observe <strong>that</strong> thesesame heroes were at times by no means insensible to* The" Fort <strong>of</strong> NirUD "-Hyderabad-anciently 10 called after itspagan founder.

A LEGEND OF HYDERABAD. 219the tender passion; indeed, in many cases theyappear to have made love at least as furiously as theyfought, and seldom to have slain a notorious paganwithout carrying <strong>of</strong>f, converting, and espousing h<strong>is</strong>fair widow or daughter; <strong>of</strong> which the veritableh<strong>is</strong>tory <strong>of</strong> Mohammed the Brave, popularly calledShah Mekkai" <strong>is</strong> a good example.As the Brave, one <strong>of</strong> the Ashab or d<strong>is</strong>ciple-companions<strong>of</strong> Ali, Mohammed's son-in-law, afterquitting Mecca, h<strong>is</strong> birth-place, <strong>was</strong>wandering aboutthe world in quest <strong>of</strong> adventure, he happened to bebenighted in the vicinity <strong>of</strong> Hyderabad-then a verybotbed <strong>of</strong> heathenry. And the Beebee Nigar, thedaughter <strong>of</strong> Nirun, and alady <strong>of</strong> Amazonian habits,.seeing a man in strange clothing cooking a supper <strong>of</strong>her father's black partridges, approached, andindulged him in h<strong>is</strong> hobby by challenging himincontinently to the duello, The style <strong>of</strong> combatproposed <strong>was</strong> the rude and primitive <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> the"noble art" as pract<strong>is</strong>ed <strong>of</strong> yore by the Lion-heartedKing and the Copmanhurst Slasher; one partybeing desired to deal a goodly buffet to the other,who, being <strong>for</strong>bidden to stop or to slip down, <strong>was</strong> inh<strong>is</strong> turn requested to repay the compliment. TheBrave had the first chance; but although h<strong>is</strong> arm* The "King," (i. e., great man, holy personage), <strong>of</strong> or from Mecca.L2

220 SCENES IN SCINDE.usually could fell an ox, and h<strong>is</strong> fingers could rip upa shirt <strong>of</strong> mail as easily as you, Mr. Bull, would teara yard <strong>of</strong> calico, on th<strong>is</strong> occasion he <strong>was</strong> obliged toown <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> hand had lost all its power.Then the lady unhelmed her face. Then <strong>of</strong> coursethe Brave fell in love with the lady, and then-suchthings are managed with admirable speed in orientaland tropical lands,-the lady and the Brave instantaneouslyplighted their troth and swore to becomeman and wife as soon as possible.Un<strong>for</strong>tunately <strong>for</strong> the case <strong>of</strong> True Love versu«a Certain Proverb, they parted-the Beebee returninghome till her admirer travelled to Mecca, andobtained perm<strong>is</strong>sion from h<strong>is</strong> commanding <strong>of</strong>ficer Ali,effectually, as Sir C- N- saith, to "ruin himself<strong>for</strong> the service," <strong>that</strong> <strong>is</strong>, to lead home a spouse. Some<strong>of</strong> the lady's attendants having observed ber littleflirtation with the <strong>for</strong>eign man, lost not a momentin in<strong>for</strong>ming their master <strong>of</strong> the same; and theinfidel king, in order to obviate the possible perils <strong>of</strong>such proceedings, determined at once to find asuitable partie <strong>for</strong> h<strong>is</strong> demo<strong>is</strong>elle.In despair, the fair one started a camel-man withan order to pursue the Brave, and a message <strong>that</strong>would recall him. Bahadur, <strong>that</strong> individual, succeededin h<strong>is</strong> attempts, and the two, as they were

hurrying towardsA LEGEND OF HYDERABAD. 221•Nirunkot, were joined by thevaliant Ali, on h<strong>is</strong> celebrated Rosinante, Zu'l Zenah,Ifthe lord <strong>of</strong> wings."They arrived at the <strong>for</strong>t in time to hear the sound<strong>of</strong> nuptial music, and to see crowds in gay attiregathered to celebrate the nuptials <strong>of</strong> their princess.Touching coincidence !Mall Mohammed, now desperate in h<strong>is</strong> tum, leftAli hid in a garden, and d<strong>is</strong>gu<strong>is</strong>ing himself as apagan, penetrated into the <strong>for</strong>tress, and made h<strong>is</strong>way to the abode <strong>of</strong> royalty. But Nirun being, 88might be expected, a magician as well as a wickedheathen, soon d<strong>is</strong>covered who the intruder <strong>was</strong>, bythe sudden stopping <strong>of</strong> the music.So, summoningall h<strong>is</strong> attendant devils, he threw the Brave intoyonder well, and rolled a stone which no fifty menin these degenerate days could move, over the flesh••pot as a lid.It <strong>was</strong> now Ali's turn to act. He waitedtill eveningcame ODeThen, anxious and impatient, he followedh<strong>is</strong> protege's example in entering the <strong>for</strong>t d<strong>is</strong>gu<strong>is</strong>ed,but, instead <strong>of</strong> confronting the old pagan,withsuperior sagacity, he walked straight into the younglady's boudoir, and then hid himself under the bridalcouch.Events followed in rapid succession.First a little

222 SCENES IN SCINDE.conjugal squabble, in whi

224 SCENES IN SCINDE.TSIICHAPTER XII.THE mNDOOS OF SCINDE-THEIR RASCALITY ANDTHEIR PHILOPROGENITIVENESS.native population <strong>of</strong> Scinde-" the extremewestern limit to which Hindoo<strong>is</strong>m in these daysextends"-<strong>is</strong> composed <strong>of</strong> Moslems and Polythe<strong>is</strong>ts.The <strong>for</strong>mer, being nearly four times the morenumerous, are the great mass <strong>of</strong> the community;whereas the latter are, with fewtrading members <strong>of</strong> the social body.exceptions, theAs has be<strong>for</strong>e been said, at the time <strong>of</strong> the Arabinvasion (A.D. 710)Scinde, likeAffghan<strong>is</strong>tan, Mooltan,and the regions <strong>that</strong> lie to the north <strong>of</strong>it, <strong>was</strong> one <strong>of</strong>the strongholds <strong>of</strong> Hindoo<strong>is</strong>m.It <strong>is</strong> probable <strong>that</strong>most <strong>of</strong> the ancient families <strong>that</strong> survived the capture<strong>of</strong> their country, migrated to escape the persecution<strong>of</strong> their de<strong>is</strong>tical conquerors, eastwards to Jesulmere,and the adjacent provinces, where their faith <strong>was</strong> thereligion <strong>of</strong> the state.The present Hindoo population<strong>of</strong> Scinde cons<strong>is</strong>ts principally <strong>of</strong> castes <strong>that</strong>

HINDOOS OF SCINDE. 225originally immigrated from the Panjab and Cutch;th<strong>is</strong> their language, dress, manners, and appearanceamply testify, though now, natural<strong>is</strong>ed in the country,all but their learned men have <strong>for</strong>gotten the story<strong>of</strong> their origin.Late as the eighteenth century, the Hindoos <strong>of</strong>Scinde, we are in<strong>for</strong>med by a traveller, were tentimes more numerous than the rival sect. Bindoo<strong>is</strong>m,however, like Juda<strong>is</strong>m, has ever been aneyesore to the Moslem, and the means which headopts to remove it, although violent and unjust,are not the less efficacious. In Persia, <strong>for</strong> instance,the Jew <strong>is</strong> popularly supposed to sacrifice a Moslemchild on certain occasions. Whenever a boy d<strong>is</strong>appears,a hue and cry <strong>is</strong> ra<strong>is</strong>ed; requiring an object,it directs itself against the persecuted body: theirhouses are attacked and plundered, they are draggedbe<strong>for</strong>e the least impartial <strong>of</strong> judges, their oaths andtheir testimony are regarded as the wh<strong>is</strong>perings <strong>of</strong>the wind, and the scene ends either with the question,or an order to admit the accused into the ranks <strong>of</strong>the Faithful. And when once the proselyte's foothas crossed the threshold <strong>of</strong> the Mosque all hope <strong>of</strong>retreat <strong>is</strong> permanently cut <strong>of</strong>f-the pun<strong>is</strong>hment <strong>of</strong>apostacy being as certain as it <strong>is</strong> tremendous.In Scinde the same cause-bigotryI partiallyL 3•

226 SOENES IN 8CINDB.modified,operated to work the downfall <strong>of</strong>heatheDiam,which, had we not taken the country, would probablynot have outlived the century.The Talpurs, the last reigning family, came dowafrom the hills <strong>of</strong> Belooch<strong>is</strong>tan, and settled upon the8ultry plains.below, first as the d<strong>is</strong>ciples, then as thefeudal followers <strong>of</strong> the saintly race which they afterwardsdethroned. Years spent in the enervatingclimate <strong>of</strong> the valley dulled the bravery and hardihood<strong>of</strong> the mountaineer, but left him all h<strong>is</strong> naturalignomnce, and bigotry, and cruelty. A Talpur chief<strong>of</strong> the last generation refused ellen to place a watch<strong>for</strong> repair in the hands <strong>of</strong> an accused but-parast, or• idol-worshipper,In the West there are many, in the East fewexceptions to the Arabs' political axiom,"The prince <strong>is</strong> the religious pattern <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> people; "and here the subjects, seeing the sovereign's propensity<strong>for</strong> persecution, copied the pattern as. closely 88they could.No Hindoo ventured to pronounce the name <strong>of</strong>the village Allahyara jo Tando,* because <strong>of</strong> the holyd<strong>is</strong>syllable <strong>that</strong> commences it; he could not touch apaper written in the Arabic language, because <strong>that</strong>* The village <strong>of</strong> " Oocr...frielld "-the latter word being the propername <strong>of</strong> 80tDe Moslem.

MOSLEM BIGOTRY. 227character <strong>was</strong> the character <strong>of</strong> the Koran;* nor daredhe to open a Moslem <strong>book</strong> in h<strong>is</strong> mother tongue, theScindee, <strong>for</strong> fear <strong>of</strong> being seen to peruse the inceptive<strong>for</strong>mula, "In the name <strong>of</strong> Allah, the compassionate,the merciful." It <strong>was</strong> always in the power <strong>of</strong> twoMoslems to effect the conversion <strong>of</strong> a Pagan byswearing <strong>that</strong> they saw him at a cockfight on Friday,<strong>that</strong> he pronounced, in their presence, the wordMohammed, or even <strong>that</strong> he had used some suchambiguous phrase ae "I will go with thee."t Sometimescircumc<strong>is</strong>ion <strong>was</strong> made the penalty <strong>of</strong> crime, aswhere a .Hindoo banyan, or shopkeeper, falselyaccused a seapoy <strong>of</strong> Dr. Burnes's guard <strong>of</strong> robbinghim, the Ameer at once ordered the cazee to do h<strong>is</strong>work upon the <strong>of</strong>fender. Nothing easier than tomake a Moslem in those days. The patient <strong>was</strong>taken be<strong>for</strong>e the judge, where, after being stripped <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> old clothes, the ceremonial ablution <strong>was</strong> dulyper<strong>for</strong>med, and he <strong>was</strong> invested in the garments <strong>that</strong>denote the Faithful. A crowd <strong>of</strong> jubilants thenchaired him to the Mosque; prayers were recited overhim, he <strong>was</strong> directed thrice to repeat Mohammed's, creed-and, if he did it fluently, a minor miracle.. Rather, I should say, supposed to have been the character by Orientalignoramuses in palmography.t The Moslem Scindians in the present day deny these assertions; theHindoos exaggerate them; and we simply believe them.

SCBNBS IX 9CISDJL<strong>was</strong> gotup-next came cittWllC<strong>is</strong>iollj the mtiuC a hit<strong>of</strong> bee( • change <strong>of</strong>name, • feast, and, lattly~ • WIJconcite eourse <strong>of</strong> instraction in the ceremoniU .-rt<strong>of</strong>the new faith..But the ooNJequena:s <strong>of</strong> bemwning a pmeeIyteertended &r enough. Islam, like JUDY other &itII.w,pr<strong>of</strong>essing to respeet the con'12t, despiIrs aDd d<strong>is</strong>trustshim..In Scmde he W"U compelled. ID .ata •eertain~ <strong>of</strong> DO ~~...,~ and to icleutify J,i"de'!f with the IDODpfl .e. itroutaiDed.. He nniv lOIe to <strong>for</strong>tuille G" ttictii_f~•UId tleIdOOl ooald eommmcl the respect el ..~~who daRbted. ~ I'eI!ity <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> &tWItmentto the strange fait!l, ad 'h<strong>is</strong> hank~ aftBothe old idolatrv. ~ em ~ cdJer hand,~•or ~teDt drove 'dle~ into a lam1 wherrhe might reemt ~thmrtdeger,orifan oppartuDity,such as our seizure or the ~',prescuted ~1;\e ftftIlrIl to HiDdoo<strong>is</strong>m, Then praeticable, ~aDCODl}W'ried ..ndl DWly a d<strong>is</strong>agreeable.illIn MidIrtowns,..n.ere p~ are few, Ed CSQIDM aiiordto -rejeet a wealthy and inilnentia1 applicant, ~proeDts to lmLhmlmti" rigid expiatory penlmma, Imda pi1gri~ooe, were the price <strong>of</strong> readmitJsjon tD 'thereligion <strong>of</strong> tbeir <strong>for</strong>efathers. But tlm <strong>was</strong> Dot alwayspOII:ible.'l'bere are many places where the nwwn:ter

KOSLBl( BIGOTRY. 229 .,<strong>is</strong> not received; he has eaten the flesh <strong>of</strong> the cow,and has drank impure water j<strong>for</strong> the rest <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> life,there<strong>for</strong>e, he must dwell in the house <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> family,an outcast, a defiled man, whose touch, like theleper. <strong>of</strong> yore, <strong>is</strong> pollution; separated from h<strong>is</strong> wife,powerless over h<strong>is</strong> children, with nothing .bnt thedreary prospect held out by h<strong>is</strong> gloomy faith toconaole him under a life <strong>of</strong> uncommon trials.With the vulgar the excitement <strong>of</strong> making oneconvert bred a desire to make another and another.When opportunities were rare, they were obliged tocontent themselves with robbing the Pagans: Friday-the Moslem Sunday-being generally selected asthe time <strong>for</strong> these small St. Bartholomew d<strong>is</strong>plays.There were fewtowns in which a Hindoo could safelyleave h<strong>is</strong> house between Thursday evening andSaturday morning.All the which the persecuted race endured doggedlyin the Bpe8jin,<strong>is</strong>. Sulking under the sabre sway<strong>of</strong> their rulers, they revenged themselves indirectly;the lower orders by grinding the faces <strong>of</strong> the poorMoslems, the upper classes by acquiring power to beabused, by fomenting intestine and family feuds, bycorrupting the principal <strong>of</strong>ficers <strong>of</strong> the state, and bysadly confusing all ideas <strong>of</strong> entente cordiale withneighbouring and allied kingdoms. Thus, despicable

230 SCENBS IN SCINDE.•and desp<strong>is</strong>ed as they were, they failed not to provethemselves essentially dangerous.Superiority <strong>of</strong> intellect <strong>was</strong> on their l<strong>is</strong>t.TheHindoo mind <strong>is</strong> a mathematical one; the Moslem's,generally speaking,* notably deficient in the power<strong>of</strong> mastering the exact sciences.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> I believe tobe the first cause <strong>of</strong> a phenomenon which attractaevery obserring eye in India, nUDely, <strong>that</strong> when thePolythe<strong>is</strong>t and the Monothe<strong>is</strong>t meet on at all equalterIns, the tonner either ruins, 01' snbjeds to hi..ue1fthe 1aUer..Other qualities ecompany th<strong>is</strong> fonD orfJOBstitu.tion or the bnin in the 1I1Ifthipper f6BnIuDL H~ <strong>is</strong> a dark uad deep-__ j~ pIottu 7an~ etea.ta&t.here aD~~ <strong>is</strong>tJK. eftIlt: -.hat Imd hut bdia maid han kept upn~ far ~t-1l'lw... tlJe l""elJme dGftmmy, « ~ Flda. i~..~1Janp.~t D arp­~com~"~!m.,~.om~.d..-:i1l1it:­R~ <strong>is</strong>~W J*RRicIP ~ ill sderiDg~"hr*~ibD a:n~ 'ftIIUS-'t) : laf. .-ill iIdfictt mj:nr:i5 :DnI'III~ .~..-iUl ~ NIIIJJ.frrDii .nf s Letel'a prmded yDlllIldi ~ tte him...aDf> iDdDmmmtt~.W-ith*' ~ .. fnr ~ MIlt. . .or 1m &mt~·about.. Tbr ~n. ~ t'GIDf 'N1't md,~lah amo~ un ':~...~ .l.nt.hi. 8bi 'IlNIK..,. n: '8a)~-fm' aNwt Il1f. DaIDI.' annabo stil difte-Uu. b1aJlL......f .. A....m.- ~ 1Q1IIID_ n~tha~ ~tt mUel.

HINDOO COURAGE. 231h<strong>is</strong> person, to be produced when things are going to<strong>of</strong>ar, he will allow himself to be suspended by h<strong>is</strong>thumbs or h<strong>is</strong> heels till he faints; he will shriekunder the lash, swearing <strong>that</strong> he has not a pice, andhe will inhale finely powdered cayenne with all theendurance, but very little <strong>of</strong> the stoic<strong>is</strong>m, <strong>of</strong> a NorthAmerican Indian. H<strong>is</strong> constancy requires nothingbut a cause to dignify it. Such<strong>is</strong> h<strong>is</strong> passive courage.At the same time place a weapon in h<strong>is</strong> hand andpoint to the br<strong>is</strong>tling breach-desire him to chargeup to a gun like an Affghan or a Turk, he will lookat you, remonstrate, hang back, turn tail: th<strong>is</strong> <strong>is</strong>not h<strong>is</strong> courage.* Finally he <strong>is</strong> parsimonious, a leanhalf-naked wretch, with lacs at h<strong>is</strong> command, livingon coarse bread and sugar-arrack, when a Moslemwith a few thousand rupees would be faring sumptuously,and emptying h<strong>is</strong> purse upon silks and satins,horses and dancers. Nor <strong>is</strong> th<strong>is</strong> thriftiness by anymeans a despicable quality: it goes hand in handwith indefatigable industry.At last the Hindoo arts prevailed, as might beexpected, over the strong arm. The younger TalpurAmeers, the sons and nephews <strong>of</strong> the original CharYar, or the four friends and brothers who expelled_.• I am speaking <strong>of</strong> the Scinde Hindoo, not <strong>of</strong> the Sikh, the Rajput, theNair, and other races which are educated, if I may use the expre88ion, toactive courage.

232 SCEKES IN SCINDE.the Kalhora dynasty from Scinde, acknowledgedtheir utter inability to d<strong>is</strong>pense with heathens inmanaging their m<strong>is</strong>erable territory-a score <strong>of</strong> themgoverned a country about the extent <strong>of</strong> Englandandin collecting their paltry revenue,-the totalproduce <strong>of</strong> the province <strong>was</strong> not greater than theincome <strong>of</strong> a Brit<strong>is</strong>h nobleman <strong>of</strong> the second class.The princes had degenerated from the hardy savagevirtues <strong>of</strong> temperance, sobriety, and morality affectedby their progenitors; they required <strong>for</strong> pleasure thetime demanded by business, and willingly intrustedto the hands <strong>of</strong> Hindoos-most unjust stewards-themanagement <strong>of</strong> their estates, and, in some cases, <strong>of</strong>their subjects.The worshipper <strong>of</strong> Brahma eminently possessesthe peculiarity usually attributed to Scotchmenthehabit <strong>of</strong> carrying out in practice what all peopleadmit in theory-<strong>that</strong>" blood <strong>is</strong> thicker than water."He no sooner establ<strong>is</strong>hes himself upon a firm footingthan he extends a helping hand to h<strong>is</strong> family generally,even to h<strong>is</strong> cousins twenty degrees removed.Nor does he stop here. Relations may be expended-the It caste-brother," as he <strong>is</strong> called, cannot. Thusthe rulers <strong>of</strong> Scinde were soon surrounded by a host<strong>of</strong> civil <strong>of</strong>ficers, revenue collectors, secretaries, andscribes, all <strong>of</strong> the same persuasion, all playing into

DIVISIONS OF HINDOOS.2SSone another's hands, and all equally determined toaggrand<strong>is</strong>e themselves, their family, and their race,no matter by what means.The result <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> almostunopposed combination <strong>was</strong> <strong>that</strong> the princes, notwithstandingtheir powers <strong>of</strong> life and death, the" she-cat ,'* and circumc<strong>is</strong>ion, were never safe fromfrauds so barefaced <strong>that</strong> it moves our wonder to hearthem told.* * * *Of the four great div<strong>is</strong>ions <strong>that</strong> compose the pureIndian family, here we find but three-the Brahman,the Wa<strong>is</strong>hya (trader), and the Shudra, or servileman.The second, the royal and military caste, <strong>is</strong>in Scinde, as elsewhere, <strong>of</strong> doubtful faith and origineverySikh, even were he the son <strong>of</strong> a sweeper,assumes to himself the title <strong>of</strong> Kshatriya. The socialposition <strong>of</strong> the race prevents their putting <strong>for</strong>th <strong>that</strong>multitude <strong>of</strong> outcast branches which in India springup from the transgression, voluntary or involuntary,<strong>of</strong> a single arbitrary religious ordinance.The Scinde Brahman <strong>is</strong> by no means a correctspecimen <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> far-famed class.inaccurate.will eat f<strong>is</strong>h jH<strong>is</strong> diet <strong>is</strong> mostAlthough he avoids beef and fowls, healso the flesh <strong>of</strong> wild birds and certain* The billi or "she-cat," <strong>was</strong> a native instrument <strong>of</strong> torture, furniabedwith claws to tear the flesh <strong>of</strong> the queationed.

234 SCENES IN SCINDE.meats-such as ven<strong>is</strong>on, kid, and mutton; heshrinks not from the type <strong>of</strong> creation, an onion,and allows himself the <strong>for</strong>bidden luxury <strong>of</strong> strongwaters.Instead <strong>of</strong> confining himself, as he shoulddo, to the study <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> grammar and h<strong>is</strong> Scriptures,to h<strong>is</strong> prayers and to h<strong>is</strong> pastoral duties, he may beseen bending over the ledger, squatting on a counter,or exerc<strong>is</strong>ing the command <strong>of</strong> a kitchen.When wefirst took the country, Brahmans owned to me <strong>that</strong>Brahmans sometimes actually married widows; but<strong>of</strong> late years, after being soundly rated by the seapoys,whom they respect, these irregular unionshave become rare amongst them.There are two principal families <strong>of</strong> priests inScinde-the Pokarno and the Sarsat.The <strong>for</strong>merare supposed to have immigrated from Upper India;they worship V<strong>is</strong>hnu, the second person <strong>of</strong> theHindu Triad; support themselves by a knowledge <strong>of</strong>Sanscrit, judicial astrology, and ceremonial law;marry in their own caste, and claim from theirpontifical brethren a superiority which the othersadmit by receiving the "water from their hands."The Sarsat, or Sarsudh,* are worshippers <strong>of</strong> Shiva,the Destroyer: in education, appearance and manners,they exactly resemble the votaries <strong>of</strong> V<strong>is</strong>hnu .• Properly 8'raawatiya, from the Saruwati river.

THE BRAHMAN. 235Knowledge amongst Scinde .Brahmans means apr<strong>of</strong>iciency in the simpler parts <strong>of</strong> Sanscrit grammar,and sufficient mastery over the language to under..stand <strong>of</strong>t-read works upon astrology, magical <strong>for</strong>muls,and the volumes <strong>that</strong> contain the intricate practice<strong>of</strong> their faith. Some few have perused the Bbagawat,one <strong>of</strong> the fourteen religious poems called t~ePuranas, and here and there an individual has hadthe industry to <strong>for</strong>m a superficial acquaintance withthe Sanhita or Summary <strong>of</strong> the Yajur or WhiteVeda. The increased facility <strong>for</strong> travelling to d<strong>is</strong>tantlands with a possibility <strong>of</strong> return, has <strong>of</strong> late yearsinduced several Brahmans to venture far from thebanks <strong>of</strong> the Indus, to wander amidst the classicshades <strong>of</strong> Kasi, * and to sit in the colleges <strong>of</strong> Calcutta:the extent <strong>of</strong> their acquirements proves <strong>that</strong>the race <strong>is</strong> by no means deficient in power <strong>of</strong>intell oot .Few <strong>of</strong> the priestly order, except when engaged incommerce, know anything <strong>of</strong> the Persian language.: - .it seems they consider it a pr<strong>of</strong>ane study <strong>of</strong> eTOUcverses and "light literature" tales ill_suited to the. " But theygraVIty <strong>of</strong> a churchrria'n and a. schOdLT.tbehave little objection to the compositions or e~en 1h h the u.post etenets <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> mild heretic N anak Sa, 1.... .. because tu e<strong>of</strong> the Sikhs, prIncIpally, I presume, .... Dcnarel.I

236 SCENES IN SCINDE.mass <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> followers pra<strong>is</strong>e and honour, revere andfee, the Brahmans.The Brahman in Scinde shaves h<strong>is</strong> head, leaving asingle lock upon the poll jhe removes the beard, andinduces the moustaches to droop heavily over h<strong>is</strong>mouth, in order to d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>h them from the hairyhonors <strong>of</strong> the Moslem's lip.Upon h<strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong>ehead heplaces a horizontal or a perpendicular mark indif..ferently.*H<strong>is</strong> dress <strong>is</strong> generally <strong>that</strong> <strong>of</strong> a commonSahukar, or trader,-<strong>that</strong> <strong>is</strong> to say, a white or redturban,t a cotton coat with a sliort body and flowingskirts, a cloth, generally salmon-coloured, With anornamental edge, wound round the wa<strong>is</strong>t, a shawl orsheet thrown loosely over the shoulders, and slippers<strong>of</strong> anything but <strong>of</strong> leather.In h<strong>is</strong> hand <strong>is</strong> a sandalwoodrosary <strong>of</strong> twenty-seven grains; and constanthabit has endowed him with the power <strong>of</strong> mutteringand telling h<strong>is</strong> beads mechanically.A few SarsatBrahmans dress in the style affected by the Amilsor Revenue <strong>of</strong>ficers: the Pokarno, however, considerthe costume unclerical, and eschew it accordingly.Of the Wani, Banyan or trader caste, there arefive great families in th<strong>is</strong> country, the Lohana, the• Whereas in India the perpendicular Tilnk as it <strong>is</strong> called, d<strong>is</strong>tingui8heethe adorer <strong>of</strong> the Preserver, from the wonhipper <strong>of</strong> the Destroyer.t The Pokaruo preferring the red, the Sarsat, the white, headgear.

THE BANYAN. 287Bhatia, the Sehta, those called Wa<strong>is</strong>hya,* and thePanjabi. According to the wont <strong>of</strong> Hindoo<strong>is</strong>m, eachdiv<strong>is</strong>ion<strong>is</strong> split into a number <strong>of</strong> insignificant bodies,who have their proper names derived from theirplace <strong>of</strong> residence, or peculiarities <strong>of</strong> dress andappearance, their furious esprit de corps, and theirviolent jealousies <strong>of</strong> one another, when the absence<strong>of</strong> a common foe allows them to indulge in theluxury <strong>of</strong> hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness.tDivided according to their occupations the ScindeBanyans are <strong>of</strong> two classes.The ignorant multitudeemploys itself generally in commerce, sometimes incultivation; the select few become <strong>of</strong>ficers undergovemment, and take the title <strong>of</strong> Amil,The Scinde trader has lived so long amongst andin subjection to the stranger, <strong>that</strong> he has unconsciouslybut very palpably emancipated himself frommuch <strong>of</strong> the galling bondage <strong>of</strong> a faith which fearsprogress as much as destruction.Tempted by the• The word" Wa<strong>is</strong>hya" properly meaning the third or trading c1asI <strong>of</strong>Hindoos,<strong>is</strong> here used in a limited sense to signify operatives and mecbaniCII,opposed to merchants and shopkeepers.t Most significant too, are some <strong>of</strong> their taunts. For instance, theLohana, in general, say <strong>of</strong> the Khudawadi, one <strong>of</strong> their subdiv<strong>is</strong>ions:-"Khudawadil1ktu4Gkhe ghere wanjan"­The Khudawadi deceive the Almight)·.-A bad pun, but a sharp cut at the excelSive cunning <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> race.

288 SCENES IN BCINDE.hope <strong>of</strong> wealth, he has wandered far and wide fromh<strong>is</strong> native shores, to sojourn <strong>for</strong> years in lands wherenothing but a popular adage--"It <strong>is</strong> ill-omened to slay a Hindu, a Jew, a woman, and a dog"-preserves him from destruction. And when hereturns from the lands <strong>of</strong> the Mlenchba,* he <strong>is</strong>honoured instead <strong>of</strong> being excommunicated by h<strong>is</strong>fellows. As he <strong>is</strong> accustomed to long voyages, instead<strong>of</strong> crunching parched grain, like the Indian, he sitsdown, on board ship, and "cooks bread." The dietprescribed by h<strong>is</strong> religion being unsuited to thenature <strong>of</strong> the cold countries he adopts, it <strong>is</strong> quietlylaid aside <strong>for</strong> one more generous and cosmopolitic.So also he has dimin<strong>is</strong>hed h<strong>is</strong> ablutions, extendedh<strong>is</strong> potations, and in many other little ways 80dressed and trimmed h<strong>is</strong> original rigid Hindoo<strong>is</strong>m,<strong>that</strong> it has become as presentable a thing as itsnatural awkwardness permits it to be.The Banyan receives but a' scanty education.After learning a few religious notions and ceremonies,quackeries and nostrums, he goes to aschoolmaster, who teaches him to read and writethe alphabet, and explains the mysteries <strong>of</strong> thecharacter which enters into h<strong>is</strong> father's <strong>book</strong>s, toadd and multiply only-subtraction and div<strong>is</strong>ion• An Infidel, i.e. one not a Hindoo.

THE BANYAN. 239being considered de trap-and to indite a <strong>for</strong>malletter <strong>of</strong> business. Nothing can be ruder than thesymbols which denote h<strong>is</strong> complicated accounts: it<strong>is</strong> a system <strong>of</strong> stenography which admits none butinitial vowels and confounds the appearance <strong>of</strong> nearlya dozen d<strong>is</strong>tinct consonants. These conclude h<strong>is</strong>course <strong>of</strong> study: he then takes h<strong>is</strong> place in the shop,where, if you please, we will leave him to cheat andhaggle, to spoil and adulterate, and to become asspeedily rich by the practice <strong>of</strong> as much commercialrascality as he can pass <strong>of</strong>f upon the world.The Amils or government <strong>of</strong>ficers-a class, createdby the ignorance and inability <strong>of</strong> the Moslem rulers-are the most influential, and, conventionallyspeaking, the most respectable body <strong>of</strong> Hindoos inScinde. They are d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hed from their fellowreligion<strong>is</strong>tsby their attire. The bigotry <strong>of</strong> the court<strong>for</strong>bade them to shave their beards, or to wearturbans: they lost the right <strong>of</strong> placing the tilak onthe <strong>for</strong>ehead, and they were compelled to trim thelong moustaches with which the Hindoo loves togarn<strong>is</strong>h h<strong>is</strong> upper lip. In the present day, althoughsumptuary and costume regulations are utterly out<strong>of</strong> date, they still affect the peculiar Scindian cap,the shirt under the cotton coat, and the wide drawersgathered in at the ancle, as in wear amongst the

240 SCENES IN SCINDE.Moslems.They are a light-complexioned, regularfeatured,fine-looking race, athletic compared withtheir brethren, from the liberal use <strong>of</strong> a meat did;scmewbat corpulent in consequence <strong>of</strong> their predilection<strong>for</strong> sweets and clarified butter, uncommonlyproud <strong>of</strong> their personal appearance, and not a littlefond <strong>of</strong> rich dress.The literary attainments <strong>of</strong> an Amil are notextensive.In h<strong>is</strong> boyhood he <strong>is</strong> sent to a Moslemakhund, or pedagogue, and learns to speak, read,and write the Persian language, or rather the kind<strong>of</strong> Lingua Franca which passes <strong>for</strong> Persian amongthe educated classes in India and Scinde.Hi.ipronunciation <strong>is</strong>, mutat<strong>is</strong> mutand<strong>is</strong>, <strong>that</strong> <strong>of</strong>an Engl<strong>is</strong>h.man speaking French with a purely Brit<strong>is</strong>h accent.H<strong>is</strong> style <strong>is</strong> equally curious, as he learns grammarby rote, without ever dreaming <strong>of</strong> the diJFerencebetwixt a noun and a verb.In selecting words, hejumbles together the learned and unlearned, obsoleteand noological, slang and pure provincial<strong>is</strong>ms: notunfrequently when ron bud <strong>for</strong> terminology,quietly introduces a Scinde vocable with 01' withoutthe benefit oC a <strong>for</strong>eign tennination.heThe effect maybe compared to a sporting mend's, "Moi drinkerai..... ~us/' adchessed to a French 1unM ..........'D<strong>is</strong> igDonmee or the difficult arbitrary

THE BANYAN. 241idiom <strong>of</strong> the beautiful sonorous Persian <strong>is</strong> completeand striking.He translates the phraseology <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong>uncouth mother tongue literally into the literarylanguage, and thus h<strong>is</strong> speech <strong>is</strong> always ridiculous,and not unfrequently <strong>of</strong>fensive, by producing someunintended, but unm<strong>is</strong>takable, dO'lJ1Jle entendre.Imagine the effect <strong>of</strong> rendering, How do you do? by.Comment laites-vOUB fAfter laying in a moderate stock <strong>of</strong> words andsentences, the amil proceeds to the perusal <strong>of</strong>certain works upon the subject <strong>of</strong> petitions, addresses,and ep<strong>is</strong>tolary correspondence, not inferior in mannerand matter to our "Complete Letter Writers."Helearns by heart the directions, the beginnings, andthe endings, the "Sir-I-have-the-honours;" and theI( Lhave-the-honour-to-remain-Sirs j " and by muchdiligence masters the important d<strong>is</strong>tinctions between" Sir-<strong>of</strong>-high-degree," and " Sir-<strong>of</strong>-exalted-station."*He then peruses a poet, and a romancer or two, withthe view <strong>of</strong>"getting up" common places, and" cramming" quotations, which may be produced asa pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> a liberal education.H<strong>is</strong> preparatorystudies conclude with a few simple arithmetical rules.Our ami! now, by the ass<strong>is</strong>tance <strong>of</strong> a kinsman, or• Ali shan, the <strong>for</strong>mer, <strong>is</strong> applied to nebles, gentlemen, and equal.pnerally; Ali jab, the latter, to reepectable penoDB and inferion.VOL.LII

242 SCENES IN SCINDE.a friend, obtains perm<strong>is</strong>sion to squat upon the floor<strong>of</strong> some daftar or govemment <strong>of</strong>fice, amongst thecrowd <strong>of</strong> scribes and clerks there assembled. The•aspirant, thus upon the point <strong>of</strong> entering "life,"devotes the energies <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> mind to mastering thecomplicated tricks and devices in which h<strong>is</strong> craftdeals, and h<strong>is</strong> juvenile ef<strong>for</strong>ts are carefully secondedby the precept and example <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> seniors.Helearns to read out a paper to h<strong>is</strong> employer, alteringsentences and paragraphs to suit the sense he determinesit to convey; and when acting secretary byorder, to jot down, without hesitation, exactly asmuch or as little <strong>of</strong> what <strong>is</strong> dictated to him as maychance to suit h<strong>is</strong> purpose.* He acquires the arDl<strong>of</strong> writing a good feigned hand, and <strong>of</strong> <strong>copy</strong>ingdocuments with deceptive skill; he becomes dexterousat making a fresh paper look old and worn, as aLondon Jew at manufacturing a Guido;..and hepract<strong>is</strong>es till perfect, with laborious industry, themany ways <strong>of</strong> <strong>for</strong>ging a seal.t <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> prelude to h<strong>is</strong>career concludes with the acquirement <strong>of</strong> considerable• A system which nothing can check but an actual perusal <strong>of</strong> all lettel'lor the plan adopted by Tippoo Sultan. The ruler <strong>of</strong> the MY80re couldneither read nor write: 80 to obviate danger <strong>of</strong> deception, after dictatingh<strong>is</strong> orders to one secretary, he sent him into a closet, and put the paperinto the hands <strong>of</strong> a second. If word had not been set down <strong>for</strong> word, thebead <strong>of</strong> the writer at once paid the penalty.t The seal in Scinde as in many partI <strong>of</strong> the Eastern World, <strong>is</strong> whatthe lignature il in the WelL

THE BANYAN. 243knowledge about the best and safest way <strong>of</strong> receivingand admin<strong>is</strong>tering a bribe. He <strong>is</strong> now a moonshee,*prepared to do h<strong>is</strong> duty to h<strong>is</strong> master by deceivinghim whenever deception <strong>is</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>itable, and to thegovernment, <strong>that</strong> employs both, by plundering it tothe utmost extent which h<strong>is</strong> means and opportunitiespermit him.The Scindee <strong>is</strong> the scribe's mother tongue, but ashe never peruses the works which it contains he <strong>is</strong>ignorant <strong>of</strong> all beyond a mere colloquial knowledge<strong>of</strong> it.H<strong>is</strong> private studies are <strong>of</strong> a religious nature.If he inclines to the faith <strong>of</strong> Nanah Shah, he learnsto read and write certain passages <strong>of</strong> the Granth, or,Sikh scripture.He prepares <strong>for</strong> himself a Pothi(prayer-<strong>book</strong>), but too idle to learn the Gurumukhi. character,t he copies from some friend's breviary theselect passages,-such as hymns to the Creator, to theGreat Incarnation, to the Saints, and to the River,astrological tables, <strong>book</strong>s <strong>of</strong> fate, <strong>for</strong>mulas <strong>for</strong> calculatinglucky and unlucky days, magical charms, andmedicinal prescriptions,-in the Nastalik, or commonPersian character.* In Persia, the title <strong>of</strong> munshi (or moonshee, secretary) <strong>is</strong> given onlyto men <strong>of</strong> learning: in India every fellow who can read a page <strong>of</strong> Hindeet&nee,or scrawl a wretched note, arrogates unto himself the name.t The Gurumukhi <strong>is</strong> the modification <strong>of</strong> the Devanagari, or Sanscritalphabet, used in the Holy Writ <strong>of</strong> the Panjab.

244 SCENES IN SOINDE.Contrary to the usual practice <strong>of</strong> Hindoos, theamils marry late in life, in consequence, I believe, <strong>of</strong>the expense attendant upon their nuptial ceremonies.Some few live and die bachelors. Most <strong>of</strong> them aregrossly immoral, addicted to gambling,. and to theabuse· <strong>of</strong> spirituous liquors.From mixing muchwith the members <strong>of</strong> another faith, and possessing.little more knowledge than their neighbours, many<strong>of</strong> these men become Dahri, or material<strong>is</strong>ts, owningthe ex<strong>is</strong>tence <strong>of</strong> a Deity, but d<strong>is</strong>sociating the ideafrom all revelation, and associating itwitll the eternitypast and future <strong>of</strong> matter in its different modifications.A few are Athe<strong>is</strong>ts in the literal sense <strong>of</strong>the word, but it <strong>is</strong> rare <strong>that</strong> they will trust theQi.secret to a stranger.All these freethinkers are<strong>for</strong>midable things. Infidelity, by which I understandthe rejection <strong>of</strong> any local system <strong>of</strong> revealedreligion, <strong>is</strong> less common in the unenlightenedEast than it <strong>is</strong> in the civil<strong>is</strong>ed West:but theEuropean seldom thinks proper, or takes the trouble,to make converts to h<strong>is</strong> d<strong>is</strong>belief; the Oriental does,and aided by h<strong>is</strong> superiority in learning over theherd, he frequently does it with great success.Tojudge from the progress <strong>of</strong> the Sufi, or mystic tenets,in Persia, and the Vedantic philosophy in India, amixture <strong>of</strong> panthe<strong>is</strong>m with pure de<strong>is</strong>m, will, presently,;,I

THE SHUDRA. 245be the faith <strong>of</strong> the learned and polite in both thosecountries.There are not many castes <strong>of</strong> Shudra, or ServileHindoos, in Scinde j and the few <strong>that</strong> ex<strong>is</strong>t haveadopted the Brahmanical thread,* the sectarian mark,the diet, dress, and manners <strong>of</strong> the Banyans.The:principal trades are the wahun, who lives bytoasting different kinds <strong>of</strong> grain; t the khatti, ordyer; the hajjam, who combines the employment <strong>of</strong>cupping and shaving; and the sochi, who makescloth slippers, but leaves leather slippers to theimpure mochi. :tIn Hyderabad, and the other large towns, areaeveral families <strong>of</strong> the mongrel religion<strong>is</strong>ts, calledSikhs. Thewild tracts <strong>of</strong> country in the east <strong>of</strong>Scinde contain some curious tribes <strong>of</strong> outcasts, andin several parts <strong>of</strong> the province a variety <strong>of</strong>mendicant orders, as numerous as the beggingfriars <strong>of</strong> Southern Europe, exerc<strong>is</strong>e their <strong>of</strong>fensivepr<strong>of</strong>ession.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>, the fluctuating population, notactually belonging to the region, I have minutely• Like the Nain <strong>of</strong> Malabar, and other similar castel in India, whotogether with the functions and employment, have taken to themselves therights <strong>of</strong> a higher family.t Many kinds <strong>of</strong> grain, such 88 rice, wheat, Bengal gram, holcus, andother cereals are boiled, dried, and <strong>was</strong>hed upon iron plates, to be eaten onjourneys, and at different religious epochs,::: The" tanner," an outcast who dre8les and works leather.

246 SCENES IN SClNDE.described in an ethnological work upon the subject<strong>of</strong> Scinde.Although the Hindoo's religion has, like theMoslem's, been contaminated by contact withstrangers,* still there <strong>is</strong> no lack <strong>of</strong> bigotry in theland. The polythe<strong>is</strong>t will <strong>of</strong>ten, lor a consideration,or with an object, represent himself as inclining toChr<strong>is</strong>tianity; but not even once, as yet, has he taken~Jthe irrevocable step-the beefsteak, or the going tochurch. H he has nothing to gain by apparentattachment to the creed <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> masten, he opposesstrenuously enough everything <strong>that</strong> militates againsth<strong>is</strong> conviction and peculiar prejudices. A friend <strong>of</strong>mine, vaccinator in Scinde, found serious difficoltie.to contend with when he attempted to spread theblessing amongst the Hindoos <strong>of</strong> Kurrachee. Thepagans believe small-pox to be a manifestation <strong>of</strong> theatrocious deity, Devi herself: they there<strong>for</strong>e buryinstead <strong>of</strong> burning the victims to tbe malady, andlook npon all precautionary measures 88 direct acts<strong>of</strong> hostile aggression upon the deity. Yet, as umal,they abound in contradictions: when a child fallssick, the father runs <strong>for</strong> a doctor 88 well as a priest;• The Moslem and the Sikh. The latter <strong>is</strong> a heretic Hindoo, and theft<strong>for</strong>ea more dangerous antagon<strong>is</strong>t than the <strong>for</strong>mer, who attacb polythe<strong>is</strong>mwith all the violence <strong>of</strong> a monothe<strong>is</strong>t.

HINDOO WOMEN. 247and when he dies, he laments him not the lessbecause he has died <strong>of</strong> a goddess.The Hindoo women in Scinde are superior to theirlords in personal appearance.Many <strong>of</strong> them arevery pretty, with correct features, magnificent hair,elegant figures-though not free from the prevalentdefect <strong>of</strong> India, high shoulders-and clear oliveskins, sometimes lighted up with the faintest possible.pink colour. Their beauty <strong>is</strong> ephemeral; and all .<strong>of</strong> them, If they have enough to eat, and are notworked too hard, quadruped like, become fleshy andcorpulent.A simple diet, a life spent almost in theopen air, and an unartificial toilet, cons<strong>is</strong>ting, intoto, <strong>of</strong> a white veil thrown over the head, a looseboddice to conceal the bosom, a long and widepetticoat, and sometimes a pair <strong>of</strong> slippers, preservethem from the hundred nervous and hystericalailments <strong>of</strong> dyspeptic civil<strong>is</strong>ation.The Hindoo ladies are less educated, but also lessfond <strong>of</strong> pleasure,-which here means, feasting, harddrinking, and flirtation-than those <strong>of</strong> the Moslems.*Their vanity, the ruling passion <strong>of</strong> the fair, finds a• safety valve in an extensive d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong> grotesque orna..ments, metal rings in the ear, the nostril, the cartilage* Except at Shikarpur.

24.8 SCBNBS IN 8CllIDE.<strong>of</strong> the Dose, on the wr<strong>is</strong>ts and fingers, ank1eI, andtoes, necklaces, and 1arge ivory circles covering allthe <strong>for</strong>e-ann. Being under strict 81U'VeillaDce, andhourly liable to bodily chaatiaement, admin<strong>is</strong>teredwith no sparing hand, they are good, hard-working,and affectionate wives. Their love <strong>for</strong> their oifspring,the great female virtue in the Eat,<strong>is</strong> an all-absorbingpassion, beautiful, despite <strong>of</strong> ita excess.Hindoo mother her child <strong>is</strong> everything.To theFrom thehour <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> birth she never leaves him day or night.H poor, she works, walking about with him on herhip: if rich, she spends life with him on her lap.When he <strong>is</strong> in health she p888e8 hertimeinkneading,and straightening h<strong>is</strong> limbs.When he <strong>is</strong> sick, shefasts and watches, and endures every self-impoeedpenance she can dev<strong>is</strong>e.She never speaks to or <strong>of</strong>him without imploring the blessing <strong>of</strong> Heaven uponh<strong>is</strong> head; and th<strong>is</strong> strong love loses nought whenthe child ceases to be a toy; it<strong>is</strong> the mainspring <strong>of</strong> herconduct towards him throughout life.No wonder<strong>that</strong> in the East an unaffectionate son <strong>is</strong> a rarephenomenon: and no wonder <strong>that</strong> th<strong>is</strong> people when<strong>of</strong>fensively inclined always begin by abusing oneanother's mothers.Own to me, Mr. Bull, if you have candourI.jIIi\

HINDOO WOMEN. 249enough, <strong>that</strong> in th<strong>is</strong> point at least civil<strong>is</strong>ation gainsnothing by contrast with barbar<strong>is</strong>m. The parentsIare engrossed by other cares-the search <strong>for</strong> riches,or the pursuit <strong>of</strong> pleasure-during the infancY <strong>of</strong>their <strong>of</strong>fspring.In the troublesome days <strong>of</strong> childhoodthe boy <strong>is</strong> consigned to a nursery, or let looseto pass h<strong>is</strong> time with h<strong>is</strong> fellows as he best can;then comes youth accompanied by an exile toschool and college; then the pr<strong>of</strong>ession; thenthe marriage; and the "young family"-a coupde grace.In civil<strong>is</strong>ation, too, there <strong>is</strong> little community <strong>of</strong>interests and opinions between parent and chil d :-the absence <strong>of</strong> it <strong>is</strong> the want <strong>of</strong> a great tie. <strong>of</strong>tenthe <strong>for</strong>mer has authority over the latter, and abusesit; or the latter, being independent <strong>of</strong> the {ortner,presumes upon it. The one may be a Roxo. a nCatholic and a Conservative; the other, a MethOd<strong>is</strong>tand a Free-trader: both are equally ready to fight"on principle" about their " principles.'" Thecontrary in these lands. Opinions are heir-loo:rn s ;religious tenets cannot diirer; politics are confinedto politicians; "principles" there are none, andevery household feels-and moreover acts upon t;beinstinct-<strong>that</strong> its only safeguardagainst the multi1;o.d e)13

260 SOENES IN SOINDE.<strong>of</strong> enemies without <strong>is</strong> unanimity within doors.Every household-excepting, <strong>of</strong> course, the great, allwhose members are rivals, and bate each other withthe vivacious family hatred <strong>of</strong> Honourables, orHibernians,

THE SCINDIAN MAN.2.51CHAPTER XIII.THE SCINDIAN MAN-HIS CHARACTER AND WHATHE DRINKS.THE Scindian-by which I understand the mass <strong>of</strong>the population-<strong>is</strong> probably the descendant <strong>of</strong> theancient Hindoo race <strong>that</strong> possessed the country, witha slight admixture <strong>of</strong> Arab, Beloch, Brahm andAffghan* blood in h<strong>is</strong> veins. To th<strong>is</strong> circumstance,doubtless, he owe. h<strong>is</strong> more muscular frame androbust general appearance: the connexion with thesuperior sub-family has, however, possibly from localcauses, failed to produce a strictly speaking improveddevelopment. H<strong>is</strong> complexion varies from a deepchocolate colour-the sign <strong>of</strong> the lower orders-tothe darkest olive <strong>of</strong> Southern Europe in the higherclasses: h<strong>is</strong> features are not unfrequently regularand well cut; the <strong>for</strong>ehead, unlike the feeble brow <strong>of</strong>India, <strong>is</strong> high and arched: the aspect <strong>of</strong> the head<strong>is</strong> good, and nothing can be finer than the eyes, thehair, and the beard.•• Some allusion will be made to these races in a subsequent chapter.

SCENES IN SCINDE.The social position <strong>of</strong> the Scindian in h<strong>is</strong> own. country has <strong>for</strong> years been exactly parallel with <strong>that</strong><strong>of</strong> the Saxon in England during the age <strong>that</strong> immediatelyfollowed the Norman invasion.Hence it <strong>is</strong>,<strong>that</strong> contrary to what might be expected from h<strong>is</strong>physical superiority, h<strong>is</strong> morale has sunk even belowthe average <strong>of</strong> Western India.a conquered race.H<strong>is</strong> <strong>is</strong> emphaticallyInhabiting a valley with a hotdamp climate-the most unfavourable to manliness jexposed tothe incursions <strong>of</strong> the hardy natives<strong>of</strong> the arid mountains <strong>that</strong> look down upon it,he had the bodily strength perhaps, but he hadnot the strong will, and he had Dot the vigour <strong>of</strong>mind to res<strong>is</strong>t invasion, to emancipate himself fromthraldom.Now, the contempt to which he haasubjected himself by h<strong>is</strong> self-conviction <strong>of</strong> inferiority,and the absence <strong>of</strong> any object which might infuseenergy into h<strong>is</strong> actions, have <strong>for</strong>med and fixed him avery slave.The principal occupations <strong>of</strong> the settled Soindiansare agriculture and manual labour.They own theworst land in the province, the tracts lying nearthe tails <strong>of</strong> canals, where the inundation seldomextends,* and the grounds cut <strong>of</strong>f from land and* Because the fe<strong>of</strong>fees, whose estates lie about the head, will not takethe trouble or go to the expense <strong>of</strong> excavating the beds. The only remedy<strong>for</strong> th<strong>is</strong> evil would be to confiecate the whole or part <strong>of</strong> the said estate&..I

THE 8CINDIAN MAN. 253water transit; whilst the Beloch feudal lords, andtheir throngs <strong>of</strong> vassals, have secured <strong>for</strong> tbemselvesmost <strong>of</strong> the fertile and productive spots.Generallyspeaking, they are m<strong>is</strong>erably poor: theirs <strong>is</strong> a baldand squalid wretchedness which must be witnessedto be understood.I have seen whole families <strong>of</strong> thewretches picking up <strong>of</strong>f the roads and highways thegrains <strong>of</strong> barley they might chance to find there.There are few d<strong>is</strong>tricts in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> Asia wherethe cultivators are not bankrupts, only preventedfrom failing, as it were, by its being the interest <strong>of</strong>the creditor not to ruin h<strong>is</strong> debtor beyond a certainpoint. The way by which th<strong>is</strong> comes to p888 inScinde <strong>is</strong> 88 fallows :-The peasant paid one..thirdor one-half the produce <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> fields to the ruler,ameer, governor, or comm<strong>is</strong>sioner: we will supp088<strong>that</strong> he paid it in kind, to make the hard conditionas favourable as possible to him.Upon the othermoiety or two-thirds, he and h<strong>is</strong> family had not oulJtosubs<strong>is</strong>t the whole year round, but also out, <strong>of</strong> ithe<strong>was</strong> required to econom<strong>is</strong>e the wherewithal to SOWh<strong>is</strong> fields when the season came round-Rete \a~the difficulty. The peasant could not save ; 93}.~a.~he could, he would not 8ave:-80 when. see ~required, he went <strong>of</strong>f to the Hindoo, the -u..s~ ~attorney <strong>of</strong> the little par<strong>is</strong>h; and, after ~•

254 8CB~Jm IN 8OINDB.trouble, took up at the rate <strong>of</strong>, about cent. per eent.,mmtgaging at the same time the coming harvest,the smallest quantity deemed necessary. He <strong>was</strong>then a ruined man.Besides receiving an enormous rate <strong>of</strong> interest,the creditor who can read, write, and compute, turnsthe ignorance <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> debtor to pr<strong>of</strong>it by keeping h<strong>is</strong>accounts in a state <strong>of</strong> confusion most advantageousto the only one <strong>that</strong> understands them-himself.The wretched ryot*, after paying <strong>of</strong>f h<strong>is</strong> liabilitiesa dozen times or more, <strong>is</strong> still as deeply indebted asever. Under the native rule it <strong>was</strong>, and under any.ystem it would be, the same. As <strong>for</strong> d<strong>is</strong>chargingthe debts <strong>of</strong> the community, and starting them, asthe phrase <strong>is</strong>, "clear" in the world, I doubt whetherthe revenue <strong>of</strong> Great Britain would suffice to do it.Only where natives govern they keep up largerestabl<strong>is</strong>hments-markets, as it were, <strong>for</strong> producethanwe do, and they will more easily remit the ratedemandable froin the agricultur<strong>is</strong>t. The frequentwars, tumults, and invasions, too, have one goodeffect, the allowing ground to lie fallow <strong>for</strong> awhile.The Hindoo's reed pen <strong>is</strong> a rod <strong>of</strong> iron, and• In the Europco-Asiatic jargon, the rayah iB the Turk<strong>is</strong>h-the ryot,the Indian, peasant: both, you would scarcely believe, the feat <strong>of</strong> Cacolraphy'a,being one and the same Arabic word, ~t:. •'fJ

THE SCINDIAN MAN. 255abjectly the unhappy Scindian trembles be<strong>for</strong>e it.I <strong>was</strong> <strong>for</strong>cibly struck by an example <strong>of</strong> its poweron one occasion when travelling down EasternScinde.My tent <strong>was</strong> pitched near a little village;and the natives, who in those days considered everyEuropean a petty sovereign, were careful to comeout en malse, and pay their respects to the hat andthe shooting-jacket.Amongst the last v<strong>is</strong>itors <strong>was</strong>a fair specimen <strong>of</strong> the race <strong>that</strong> hath been mostunjustly designated as "mild and lowly j" a dirty,cringing Hindoo, with Shylock written in every line<strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> cold, lean, greedy countenance.Standingup humbly enough, he began to detail h<strong>is</strong> grievances,ins<strong>is</strong>ting particularly upon th~ bad conduct <strong>of</strong> someunhappy Mussulman ryot, who would not pay h<strong>is</strong>debts legally contracted." Hast thou seized h<strong>is</strong> com?" I asked." Of course, great Rajah: but it <strong>is</strong> not enough I JJ" Hast thou sold h<strong>is</strong> cattle?" (without them thepoor wretch could not plough a square foot <strong>of</strong> field)."Certainly.Long may your Rajahship flour<strong>is</strong>h tbut he still owes me rupees."" Hast thou taken h<strong>is</strong> wife's jewels, their clothes,the ornaments <strong>of</strong> their children, theirfurniture, &c. ?""Yes; but he <strong>was</strong> so poor-what were the thingsworth? "

256 SCENES IN 80INDE.Ie And thou hast not turned him out <strong>of</strong> house andhome, thou "Ie He sits in the jungle, great prince."tI Then, man <strong>of</strong> dense brains, what wouldst: thouhave me do ?-what wouldst thou do thyself? "My friend <strong>was</strong> evidently <strong>of</strong> opinion <strong>that</strong> byscience and vigour blood might be extracted from aturnip; and he hinted not obscurely at a mode <strong>of</strong>torture, which he assured me, under the nativeprinces, <strong>was</strong> never known to fail. From h<strong>is</strong> account<strong>of</strong> it I should agree with him, the alternative beingliterally payor die. In vain I attempted to illustratethe homely proverb above quoted;-in vain Irepresented, <strong>that</strong> we civil<strong>is</strong>ed Europeans allow nocorporeal pun<strong>is</strong>hment <strong>for</strong> debt-only a compulsoryresidence in certain government bungalows. MyHindoo affected to believe what I <strong>was</strong> saying: heleft me, however, not daring to grumble, but lookingh<strong>is</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ound d<strong>is</strong>sat<strong>is</strong>faction at having come across sothick-headed, and at the same time so imaginative, aconqueror.In the East, Mr. Bull, such a scene <strong>is</strong> impressive.The nomadic Scindians who inhabit the bills inthe western, and the oases in the deserts <strong>of</strong>.theeastern frontier, are taller, stouter, and hardier men

THE anr, SCINDIANS. 257than those settled upon the plains <strong>of</strong> the Indus.appearance many <strong>of</strong> them are scarcely to be d<strong>is</strong>tingu<strong>is</strong>hedfrom their Beloch neighbours; and thelatter, in some cases, have learned to respect theirstrength and fitful valour.InThey live by f<strong>is</strong>hing andhunting, by breeding horses, camels, and sheep, byresorting to the low country <strong>for</strong> employment, whenagriculture <strong>is</strong> at a standstill, and by cultivating littlepatches <strong>of</strong> ground sufficient to provide them andtheir families with food.cakeThe Scindian's daily bread <strong>is</strong>a thick, 1labby<strong>of</strong> bajri* flour, flavoured with salt, mixedwith water, well kneaded and baked withoutleaven on a clay plate, reeking with rancidbutter, green<strong>is</strong>h in colour, and <strong>of</strong> particularlyuninviting taste. It <strong>is</strong> considered very heating, 80the peopleweather.almost live upon it during the coldFor the rich there are about fifteen kind.<strong>of</strong> "rott," as the stuff <strong>is</strong> most appropriately called,made <strong>of</strong> different grains, or cooked in particularways;some <strong>of</strong> them, the sweet ones, rather resemblingbuttered toast, coated with coarse brown sugar.The national drinks are milk and water, not mixed.The luxurious enjoy pillaus, dressed in a pseudo..• A kind <strong>of</strong> grain, intelligibly described in dictionaries, "Penicillaria.vulgaril."t Bread, in Scindee.

258 SCENES IN SCINDE.1Persian style, fresh and dried f<strong>is</strong>h, game, vegetables,fruits, and other delicacies.All smoke the hookah-in these regions a peculiar looking affair, composed<strong>of</strong> a large, round<strong>is</strong>h vessel <strong>of</strong> clay, baked red,with a long, thin neck, into which <strong>is</strong> inserted thestem <strong>that</strong> supports the ehillam, or bowl. Thesmoke,passing through the water, <strong>is</strong> inhaled bymeans <strong>of</strong> a reed pipe <strong>that</strong> projects from the side <strong>of</strong>the reservoir.There are several varieties <strong>of</strong> tobacco:the best, called Shikarpuri, would, if properlycured,* <strong>for</strong>m a valuable article <strong>of</strong> commerce.One <strong>of</strong> the great causes <strong>of</strong> the Scindian's degeneracy<strong>is</strong> the prevalence <strong>of</strong> drunkenness throughoutthe province.All ranks and creeds, sexes and ages,drink; the exceptions being a few religious men anddames <strong>of</strong> godly lives.Oriental like, they sit downto their cups with the firm. intention <strong>of</strong> d<strong>is</strong>qualifyingthemselves <strong>for</strong> ar<strong>is</strong>ing from them.There <strong>is</strong> littlegrape wine in the country, the fruit being rare, andgenerally used <strong>for</strong> eating.The common alcoholsare those d<strong>is</strong>tilled from molasses or dates, with theaddition <strong>of</strong> a little mimosa bark, and other ingredients.When pure they are fiery as eether or salvolatile, and the novice hesitates which to abhor the_.• It <strong>is</strong> terribly sweated by being stacked in cocks covered with matting10 as to exclude the air: hence its inferiority <strong>of</strong>fiavour.

DRUNKENNESS. 259most, the taste or the smell <strong>of</strong> the potion.Sometimesit <strong>is</strong> perfumed with musk, citron peel, roseflowers, or saffron, and the spirit <strong>is</strong> blunted by aplentiful admixture <strong>of</strong> molasses or sugar-candy.The alcohols, however, like the wines and opium,are confined to the higher orders, and those whocan af<strong>for</strong>d such luxuries.* The common peoplemust content themselves with the many preparations ,<strong>of</strong> the deleterious bhang, in England called Indianhemp t; and so habituated have they become to it,<strong>that</strong>, like drinkers <strong>of</strong> laudanum, they can scarcelyex<strong>is</strong>t without it.Near all the large towns thereare particular places, called daira t, where regulardrunkards assemble to debauch in public. Thebuilding <strong>is</strong> one large, open room, generally in agarden, planted with basil and other odoriferousplants; there must be a l<strong>of</strong>ty wall to exclude thegaze <strong>of</strong> passers by; but spreading trees,and abubbling stream-the scene in which the Persian• The nobles infinitely prefer European preparations, especially thestrong and 8weet-as cUJ'a90a and noyau. Some <strong>of</strong> the Parsees whotraded in these articles when we first took the country, made considerablesums <strong>of</strong> money.t Bhang (in Persian, bang), i8 the name <strong>of</strong> the herb, and al80 <strong>of</strong> thefayourite preparation <strong>of</strong> it described below.::: Our government has w<strong>is</strong>ely taxed the hemp which, under the nativeprinces, almost every peasant grew <strong>for</strong> himself. The daira ehould belicensed or limited in numbers by some meaus or other, as they are mostprejudicial to the well-being <strong>of</strong> the people.

260 8CENB8 IN SCIBDE.loves to wrestle with Bacchus-are rare luxuries inth<strong>is</strong> land.About sunset, "hen the work <strong>of</strong> the day<strong>is</strong> happily over, the bhang<strong>is</strong> *. begin to congregate,each bringing with him h<strong>is</strong> hemp, h<strong>is</strong> pipkin, h<strong>is</strong>lC ata1f t," and the other necessaries. Then ensuesa happy half-hour <strong>of</strong> anticipation. All employ themselvesin <strong>was</strong>hing out the leaves with"three waters,"in pressing the m8BS between the palms-blessing itlustily the while-in rubbing it with the pestle inthe brass pot-full <strong>of</strong> water or milk, and in sweeteningthe nauseous draught, with irrepressible glee at thenearing prospect <strong>of</strong> their favourite occupation.After drinking or slUoking the drug, the revellersfasten on the hookahs placed upon the floor, andbetween the puffs either eat little squares <strong>of</strong> 8Weetmeat,to increase the intoxication, or chew parchedgrain to moderate its effects.In about half anhour the action <strong>of</strong> the drug commences: each man<strong>is</strong> affected by it in a somewhat different way. Onesquats, stupid and torpid, with h<strong>is</strong>arms woundround h<strong>is</strong> knees, and h<strong>is</strong> long beard shaking, like.agoat's when browsing, with every nod <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> falling• .An habitual bhang-drinker <strong>is</strong> termed a bhaagf, and the name i,considered liglit and slighting even by those who indulge in the <strong>for</strong>biddenpleasure.t Asa <strong>is</strong> the native word <strong>for</strong> the dwarf club with which they triturateand mix the .mall leaves, husks, and eeeda <strong>of</strong> the plantwith milk or water.

DRUNKENNESS. 261head. H<strong>is</strong> neighbour may prefer a d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong>musical skill, in which he perseveres solely <strong>for</strong> h<strong>is</strong>own benefit. Another, delighting in privacy, throwsa sheet over h<strong>is</strong> head, and sits in a comer <strong>of</strong> theroom, meditatingintensely upon the subject <strong>of</strong>nothing. A third talks d<strong>is</strong>jointed nonsense; a-fourth, becoming excited, will begin to per<strong>for</strong>m apas sem,-if <strong>of</strong> choleric complexion he will, Ir<strong>is</strong>hmanlike, do all he can to break some dear friend's head.And the multitude, the "old hands," sit quietlylooking on, occasionally chatting, and now and thenentertaining one another with lies the most improbable,incoherent, and grotesque, <strong>that</strong> ever shiftedfrom mortal lips to mortal ears. There <strong>is</strong> oneremarkable peculiarity in the assembly.If a singleindividual happen to cough or to laugh, the rest,no matter how many, are sure to follow h<strong>is</strong>example.And the effects <strong>of</strong> the continuous andcauseless convulsions <strong>of</strong> the lungs and cachinnatorymuscles upon a bye-stander-not drunk-<strong>is</strong> exceed.ingly striking.The social meeting usually breaks up about 8 P.M.,at which hour the members with melancholy countenancesretire to their suppers and their beds.You have read, I suppose, Mr. Bull, some execrabletranslation <strong>of</strong> a certain spirit-stirring tale

262 SCENES IN 8CINDE.•-Monte Chr<strong>is</strong>to. Perhaps you remember <strong>that</strong>tmly Gallican part <strong>of</strong> it in which the hero admin..<strong>is</strong>ters Hash<strong>is</strong>h* to h<strong>is</strong> friend, and the very romanticdescription <strong>of</strong> what the Hash<strong>is</strong>h did to <strong>that</strong> friend.You must know <strong>that</strong> these are the effects <strong>of</strong> hempand <strong>book</strong>s, in the regions <strong>of</strong> imagination, in theworld <strong>of</strong> author<strong>is</strong>m-a strange place where men are ...generous, women constant, the young w<strong>is</strong>e, the oldbenevolent-not in the deserts <strong>of</strong> actuality. I have<strong>of</strong>ten taken the drug, rather <strong>for</strong> curiosity to d<strong>is</strong>coverwhat its attractions might be, than <strong>for</strong> aught <strong>of</strong>pleasurable I ever experienced. The taste <strong>of</strong> thepotion <strong>is</strong> exactly what a mixture <strong>of</strong> milk, sugar,pounded black pepper, and a few spices would produce.The first result <strong>is</strong> a contraction <strong>of</strong> the nerves<strong>of</strong> the throat, which <strong>is</strong> anything but agreeable.Presently the brain becomes affected; you feel anextraordinary lightness <strong>of</strong> head 8S it were; yoursight settles upon one object, obstinately refusing toabandon it; your other senses become unusuallyacute-uncom<strong>for</strong>tably sensible-and you feel a tinglingwhich shoots like an electric shock down yourlimbs till it voids itself through the extremities.You may stand in the burning sunshine without* The Arabic name <strong>for</strong> Indian hemp when prepared.

DRUNKENNESS. 263being conscious <strong>of</strong> heat, and every sharp pain <strong>is</strong>instantly dulled.Your cautiousness and your reflectiveorgans are painfully stimulated; you fearevery thing and every body, even the man whoshared the cup with you, and the servant who preparedit; you suspect treachery every where, and inthe simplest action detect objects the most complexedlyvillainous.Your thoughts become wild andincoherent, your fancy runs frantic jif you are apoet, you will acknowledge an admirable frame <strong>of</strong>mind <strong>for</strong> writing such "nons1ense verses," as thefollowing:-"The teeth <strong>of</strong> the mountains were seton edge bythe eating <strong>of</strong> betel,Which caused the sea to grin at the beard <strong>of</strong> the sky." •If you happen to exceed a little, the confusion <strong>of</strong>your ideas and the d<strong>is</strong>order <strong>of</strong> your imagination willbecome intense.I recollect on one occasion beingpersuaded <strong>that</strong> my leg <strong>was</strong> revolving upon its kneeas an ax<strong>is</strong>, and could d<strong>is</strong>tinctly feel as well as hearit strike against and pass through the shoulderduring each revolution.Anyone may make yousuffer agony by simply remarking <strong>that</strong> a particular* Dr. Herklote (Qanoon-e-Ialam) quota these lines u an" enigm~"and gravely explain. the lignification which he 8UPpose. them to bear.They fonn part <strong>of</strong> a poem cons<strong>is</strong>ting <strong>of</strong> "nonBenBe velles "-a favouritemode <strong>of</strong> trifting in the Eut, and composed, men -1, under the influence<strong>of</strong> bhang. ...

2MSCENES IN SCIBDE.limb must be in great pain, and you catch at everyhint thrown outto you, nurseit and cher<strong>is</strong>h it with afixed and morbid eagemess <strong>that</strong> savoun strongly <strong>of</strong>insanity. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> state <strong>is</strong> a very dangerous one, especiallyto a novice; madness and catalepsy being byno meaDI uncommon terminations to it. The generally118ed restoratives are a wine glass foll <strong>of</strong> purelemon juice, half-a-dosen young cucumbers eatenraw, and a few pu1fs <strong>of</strong> the hookah; you may conceivethe state <strong>of</strong> your unhappy stomach after thereception <strong>of</strong> these remedies. Even without themyou generally mffer from severe indigestion, <strong>for</strong>during the intoxication <strong>of</strong> bhang, the unnaturalhunger which it produces excites you to eat a suppersufficient <strong>for</strong> two days with ordinary circumstances.These are the effects popularly associated by theOrientals with drinking bhang and those which Imyself experienced. Almost every bhangi howeverfeels something <strong>that</strong> differs from the sensations <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> neighbour. And <strong>of</strong> course the more habituateda man becomes to the use <strong>of</strong> the drug, the morepleasurable he finds the excitement it produces.It has two consequences which appear to vary only indegree fearfulness during the fit, and indigestionafter it.In consequence <strong>of</strong> the extensive use made <strong>of</strong> the,i

DRUNKENNESS. 265preparation by the mystics <strong>of</strong> the East and themultitudinous v<strong>is</strong>ions and presences with which theirmaudlin moments have been enlivened, the drinking<strong>of</strong> "verdure," (Sahzeh) as the Persians call it, <strong>is</strong>considered by ignorant free-thinkers a kind <strong>of</strong> semireligiousexerc<strong>is</strong>e.A Sufi bard thus addresses h<strong>is</strong>poculum, allegor<strong>is</strong>ing its spirit as well as its matter,its inner contents and outward <strong>for</strong>m.I.o <strong>of</strong> heroic deed and thought sublimeAnd words <strong>of</strong> fire, mysterious fosterer,Imagination's font *And Inspiration's nurse !II.To the dull Past thou lend'st a rosier tinge,Brighter bright Hope emergeth from thy stream,And dipped in thee, young LoveGlows with a holier flame.nLGaunt Poverty, grim M<strong>is</strong>ery love to findIn thee their best, their sole mediciner.Thy potent spell aloneCan smooth Pain's horrent brow.IV.And, Siren bowl, in thee the sage beholdingTypes not obscure <strong>of</strong> matter's shifting scenes,Of deepest thought derivesSad salutary stores.* In the original, " Sabgh,"-an allusion to ChriItiaD Bapt<strong>is</strong>m.VOL. I.

266 SCBNBS IN SCINDE.v.Above eternity, without beginning,Below thee lies eternity unending: ­Thy narrow walls p~yThe puny bounds <strong>of</strong> Time.VI.Within whose circlet lies the world-a speckUpon th' immense <strong>of</strong> being, like the moteThat momentary beamsIn day's all-seeing ff18.VII..And on thy brim the drops 80 pasaing BWeet,Withal so bitter in their consequence ;In them, friend, mind'st thou notLife's clogging pleasances1vm.:Man <strong>is</strong> the heedless By <strong>that</strong> comes and goes,Flutt'ring h<strong>is</strong> little hour <strong>of</strong> age away,Till, passing to h<strong>is</strong> doom,Place knoweth him no more.ILThe annals <strong>of</strong> the world one tale repeat," At such a moment such a one expired.IIOf th<strong>is</strong> all mindful live-Mirza,t prepared to die.The almost universal use <strong>of</strong> Bhang throughoutthe province has doubtless much to do with the• The Moslems have cut 'ceternity" into two halvee-Azaliyat"beginninglessness," and Abadiyat "endleune88."t The name <strong>of</strong> the bard who addreeses himself, more Perttico, at theend <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> ode. Hi. poetry might be improved, as regard. the world..out hi, metaphor. I leave it intact u a specimen.

THE SCINDIAN'S VICES. 267Scindian's natural vices, inertness and cowardice,lying and gasconading. Lente, without the jeatina,has now become h<strong>is</strong> motto <strong>for</strong> the management <strong>of</strong>life. The herdsman passes h<strong>is</strong> day under a bush,alternately smoking, drinking hemp, dozing and playingupon the reed. The (l navvy" on the canals-alarge class in these regions-scratches up the mudwith a diminutive hoe, deposits it in a dwarf basket,toils up the bank at the rate <strong>of</strong> a hundred yards an, hour, and after concluding each laborious trip sitsdown groaning heavily to recreate himself with apipe and to meditate upon approaching happinessin the <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> "Bhang." Your boatman on theriver will, ifyou permit him, moor h<strong>is</strong> craft at noonregularly to enjoy h<strong>is</strong> cups, and not to get throughh<strong>is</strong> work too quickly. So it <strong>is</strong> with the peasant ath<strong>is</strong> plough, the huntsman, the f<strong>is</strong>her, the workman,the shopman, in a word with everybody.The Moguls in ancient times used to curtail thelives <strong>of</strong> state pr<strong>is</strong>oners by giving them every daybe<strong>for</strong>e breakfast a cup full <strong>of</strong> what <strong>is</strong> called" Post."A dried poppy-head or two <strong>was</strong> infused in warmwater allowed to stand the whole night, and in themorning squeezed till none <strong>of</strong> the juice remained init. The draught <strong>was</strong> cooled with ice or snow in thehot weather-admire the exqu<strong>is</strong>ite delicacy <strong>of</strong> Indian)12

268 SCENES IN 8CINDK.politenese-e-sweetened, perfumed, and then admin<strong>is</strong>teredto the captive. After a few months h<strong>is</strong>frame became emaciated, h<strong>is</strong> mind torpid and inert;and these symptoms did not cease developing themselvestill death <strong>was</strong> the result <strong>of</strong> the slow po<strong>is</strong>on.The Scindian by drinking h<strong>is</strong> Bhang after dinnerinstead <strong>of</strong> be<strong>for</strong>e breakfast, allows himself somechance against the destroyer, but h<strong>is</strong> health, bodilyand mental, cannot but suffer from its certaineffects.~e Scindians, like the unhappy Italians <strong>of</strong> moderndays, have <strong>for</strong> <strong>generations</strong> felt the weight <strong>of</strong> <strong>for</strong>eignfetters; unlike the ancient Anglo-Saxons,' they havenone <strong>of</strong> the glorious phlegm and sturdiness withwhich the northern bore, without succumbing to, theeeeerubile onus <strong>of</strong> a master's arm. A race <strong>of</strong> slaves<strong>is</strong> not necessarily cowardly: witness the Nubianandother African bondsmen, than whom the world dOOInot contain a more determined, dogged, and desperateset <strong>of</strong> ruffians. But the Scindian <strong>is</strong> constitutionallya poltroon: * h<strong>is</strong> timidity <strong>is</strong> the double one<strong>of</strong> mind and body. An exception to the generalrules <strong>of</strong> oriental resignation and Moslem <strong>for</strong>titude,• <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> remark by no means appliee to the wild tribee <strong>of</strong> Sclndiana;and superior climate and the habit <strong>of</strong> danger have made many <strong>of</strong> themtheJakhru, <strong>for</strong> inataDce-almoat as 'brave B8 Beloochea.

COWARDICE AND BOASTING. 269he cannot talk or think <strong>of</strong> death without betrayingan abject grovelling fear, and even h<strong>is</strong> Bhang willnot give him courage to face the bayonet withcommon manliness.Their preponderating development <strong>of</strong> cautiousnessmay account <strong>for</strong> the lying and vaunting propensities<strong>of</strong> the people.trust.They deceive, because they fear toThey boast, because they have a hope <strong>of</strong>effecting by "sayings" what there are no " doings "to do.The habit soon becomes a confirmed one,especially amongst Easterns, who exaggerate andoverdraw every thing in pure hate <strong>of</strong> nature andthings natural. "Shahbash Pahlawan," go it myheroes! cries the Tindal or skipper <strong>of</strong> your Dhundhi,*at every stroke <strong>of</strong> the sweep handled by h<strong>is</strong> trembling"braves."Ifa score <strong>of</strong> naked boors congregate ina dirty village, they will call it a tt Shehr," a city.The chief <strong>of</strong> a petty tribe must prefix the title <strong>of</strong>"Malik," king, to h<strong>is</strong>name.ignoble and cacophonousYour escort-half a dozen ragged match.lock men-dubs itself a "Lashkar," an army; andwhen you ride over to some great man's palace,accompanied by a single domestic, your groom <strong>is</strong>gravely termed your " Sawari," or retinue. .Thenoble boasts <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> clan musters 50,000 men, all• A kind <strong>of</strong> craft upon the Indus.See chap. XXVIII.

270 SCENES IN SCINDA.perfect Rustams* or Camel<strong>for</strong>ds <strong>for</strong> fighting: everyindividual <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> 50,000 will, if you believe him,convince you <strong>that</strong>-" H<strong>is</strong> joy <strong>is</strong> the <strong>for</strong>ay, the fray h<strong>is</strong> delight."Take up a horsewhip, and the Rustam will infalliblydecamp as fast 88 the portable armoury <strong>of</strong> weaponsabout h<strong>is</strong> person allows him to do.every rank and condition <strong>of</strong> man.And 80 on with• The Pel'lia.n hero: & kind <strong>of</strong> Hercules, Sampeon, and Solomon combined:although a Pagan, he will elC&pe eternal puni8hment by reason <strong>of</strong>h<strong>is</strong> yalour.

THE SCINDIAN WOMAN. 271CHAPTER XIV.THE SCINDIAN WOMA.N-ESPECIALLY HER EXTERIOR.IN treating <strong>of</strong> the fair sex, we ought, I SUppOS8'Mr. Bull; to commence by a sketch <strong>of</strong> superficialities,thereby suiting manner to matter.The first thing the Eastern traveller homereturnedremarks in the streets <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> native town<strong>is</strong>, <strong>that</strong> scarcely any two people resemble each other.In the most civil<strong>is</strong>ed European. countries there hasbeen such a ~ture <strong>of</strong> blood and breed <strong>that</strong> now analmost Infinite variety <strong>of</strong> features and complexions,shapes and <strong>for</strong>ms, has been grafted upon the originalstock which each region grew. He then explainsto himself how it <strong>was</strong> <strong>that</strong> during h<strong>is</strong> earlier months<strong>of</strong> wandering, he thought all the menbrothers, all the women s<strong>is</strong>ters, andhe metremembers<strong>that</strong>, till h<strong>is</strong> eye became familiar with its task, hecould trace no more d<strong>is</strong>tinction between individualsthan a cockney would d<strong>is</strong>cover in two white sheep<strong>of</strong> a size.

272Caste,* in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong> the Eastern world, groupsthe population <strong>of</strong> a country into 80 many d<strong>is</strong>tinctbodies, each bearing a peculiar likeness to the other,and all a general one to the character<strong>is</strong>tic face and<strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> the race. Rank makes some difference<strong>of</strong> colour-the higher it <strong>is</strong> the fairer the skin t~dwealth gives a delicacy <strong>of</strong> feature and figure-not tobe found amongst the ill-fed, ill-clad, and hardworkedpoor; but here they fail to destroy thefamily resemblance which naturally ex<strong>is</strong>ts betweenindividuals <strong>of</strong> the same country, age, and creed.- I must request you to be present at the unpacking<strong>of</strong> a 8eindian lady or high degree, during whichoperation I shall lecture upon the points moat likelyto interest you, sir, my intelligent audience.Observe, she stands be<strong>for</strong>e you In her Burkaungracefulprototype <strong>of</strong> the most graceful mantillawhichhas frequently, and not inaptly, beencomparedto a shroud. Its breadth at the shoulders, narrowing<strong>of</strong>t' towards the feet, makes it look uncommonlylike a c<strong>of</strong>fin covered with canvas: the romanticallyinclined detect a " solemn and nunlike appearance in* <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> corrupted Pertuguese word (ca&ta) may Tenially be applied tothe half Bindoo MU88ulman <strong>of</strong> 8cinde and India; though, propenytpeWDg, no such d<strong>is</strong>tinction prevails in the world <strong>of</strong> Ialam.t So much so <strong>that</strong> a Badia or traditional saying <strong>of</strong> the prophet.'.dec:larea<strong>that</strong> none <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> deacendaDt.a.hall be a dark~oured 1D&D.

THE SCINDIAN LADY. 273the costume," and the superstitious opine <strong>that</strong> thefigure thus arrayed "looks like a ghost." Thematerial <strong>is</strong> thick cotton cloth, which ought to bewhite, but <strong>is</strong> like a Sullote's frock, " d'une hlancheu:rprohlimatique s" a strip <strong>of</strong> coarse net, worked latticew<strong>is</strong>e,with the small mils de ham! opposite the eyes,covers and conceals the face.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> article <strong>is</strong> a greattest <strong>of</strong> "respectabilityr and <strong>is</strong> wom in token <strong>of</strong>much modesty and decorum.Satirical Scindians,however, are in the habit <strong>of</strong> declaring <strong>that</strong> it <strong>is</strong> a bit<strong>of</strong> rank prudery, and <strong>that</strong> the wearer <strong>of</strong> the Burka,80 far from being better, <strong>is</strong> generally a little worsethan her neighbours,Our lady <strong>is</strong> very strict, youmay see, in "keeping up appearances; "<strong>for</strong> inaddition to the mantilla, she wears out <strong>of</strong> doors along wide cotton Paro, or petticoat, <strong>for</strong> fear <strong>that</strong>chance should expose the tips <strong>of</strong> her crimsoned toesto a strange man's gaze.She <strong>is</strong> now in her indoor costume.Over herhead, extending down to the wa<strong>is</strong>t behind, <strong>is</strong> a veil<strong>of</strong> Tattah silk, with a rich edging, the whole <strong>of</strong> redcolour, to denote <strong>that</strong> the wearer <strong>is</strong> a "happywife."*The next garment <strong>is</strong> a long wide shift, opening infront, somewhat after the fashion <strong>of</strong> a Frenchman's• "Subbagan" <strong>is</strong> the native word: widows anel old ladies generallydress in white.N 3

SCBNES IN 8OINDB.bloue; the hanging sleeves a:re enormous, and arichly-worked band or gorget confines it round thethroat.At th<strong>is</strong> season <strong>of</strong> the year it <strong>is</strong> made <strong>of</strong>expensive brocade" in summer Multan muslin wouldbe the fuhionable stuff.There are no stays to spoilthe shape: their locu. teneu <strong>is</strong> a harmless spenceror boddice*<strong>of</strong> velvet, fitting as tight as posaible tothe <strong>for</strong>m, concealing the bosom, and fasteningbehind.The " terminations," <strong>of</strong> blue satin, arehuge bags, very wide behind, to act 88 poliBBon or.crinoline, and narrowing towards the extremitiessufficiently to prevent their falling over the foot.These are gathered in at the aneles, and correcttaste requires th<strong>is</strong> part to be so tight <strong>that</strong> our ladynever takes less than twenty nunutes to invest herfair limbs in her Suttkan, or pantaloons.I mustcall upon you to admire the Naro, or trowser-string:it <strong>is</strong> a cord <strong>of</strong> silk. and gold, plaited together with acircle <strong>of</strong> pearls at both ends, surrounding a ruby orsome such stone, set in wire, concealed by the coils<strong>of</strong> the pendant extremities.Concludes the toilettewith slippers, a leathern sole, destitute <strong>of</strong> hindquarters,whose tiny vamp hardly covers the toes:its ornaments are large tufts <strong>of</strong> floss silk, variouscoloured foils, wings <strong>of</strong> green beetles, embroidered,• In shape and duty resembles the Roman 8trop1I,ium.

,.THlC LADY'S DRBSB.275or seed pearls sewed upon a bright cloth ground.To see the wearer tripping and stumbling at everysecond step, you would imagine <strong>that</strong> the Seindian,like the subject <strong>of</strong> the Celestial Empire, had knowinglyput a limit to h<strong>is</strong> lady's power <strong>of</strong> locomotion.But no, sir, it <strong>is</strong> only "the fashion "-licensedridiculousness.A red silk veil, a frock <strong>of</strong> white muslin" throughwhich peeps a boddice<strong>of</strong> crimson velvet and bluesatin pantaloons: own <strong>that</strong> though the lady's costume<strong>is</strong> utterly at variance with Le Follet, and woulddrive Le Petit Courier into a state <strong>of</strong> demency, it <strong>is</strong>by no means wanting in a certain picturesqueattractiveness.And now <strong>for</strong> the lady's personale. Her long, finejetty hair, perfumed with jessamine and other oils,<strong>is</strong> plastered ~ver a well-arched <strong>for</strong>ehead, in broadflat bands, by means <strong>of</strong> a mixture <strong>of</strong> gum andwater. Behind, the ckevelure <strong>is</strong> collected into onelarge tail, which frequently hangs down below thewa<strong>is</strong>t, and-chief <strong>of</strong> many charms-never belongedto any other person: it <strong>is</strong> plaited with lines <strong>of</strong> redsilk, resembling the trowser-string, and when thehead, as frequently happens here, <strong>is</strong> well..,haped, nocoiffure can be prettier than th<strong>is</strong>. Her eyes arelarge and full <strong>of</strong> fire, black and white as an onyx

276 BCKNBS m BCIlfDB.stone, <strong>of</strong> almond shape, with long droopiDg lashes,undeniably beautiful. I do not know exactlywhether to approve <strong>of</strong> <strong>that</strong> setting <strong>of</strong> Kajal* whichencircles the gema; it heightens the colour anddefines the <strong>for</strong>m, but also it exaggerates the eyesinto becoming Ike feature <strong>of</strong> the face-which <strong>is</strong> n~adv<strong>is</strong>able. However, I dare not condemn it. Uponthe brow and cheek bones a little powdered talc <strong>is</strong>applied with a pledget <strong>of</strong> cotton, to imitate perspiration-ahorrible idea, borrowed from Penianpoetry,-and to communicate, as the natives say,U salt " to the skin. The eheeka are slightly tingedwith lac rouge, a vegetable compound which Istrongly recommend, by means <strong>of</strong> you, Mr. Bull, tothe artificial complexion-makers <strong>of</strong> the west. Thenose <strong>is</strong> straight, and the thin nostrils are delicatelyturned. You, perhaps, do not, I do, admire theirburden-a gold flower, <strong>for</strong>med like a buttercup, andencrusted with pearls;t at any rate, the bit <strong>of</strong> blackribbon which connects it with the front hair <strong>is</strong>* Lampblack collected by holding a knife over the flame <strong>of</strong> a lamp andapplied with a glau, leaden, or wooden needle, eaHed a Mil, to theedge. <strong>of</strong> the eyelids. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the frdigo <strong>of</strong> the Roman ladies; how <strong>is</strong>it <strong>that</strong> the Par<strong>is</strong>ians have not yet tried it'+ There are several kinds <strong>of</strong> nose ornaments, the uBU&1 ones are a largemetal ring fixed in either wing, or & smaller one depending from the centrecartilage <strong>of</strong> the nose. When removed, a clove or a bit <strong>of</strong> silver <strong>of</strong>5imilar sl;1ape <strong>is</strong> inserted into the hole to prevent ita closing.

ORNAMENTS. 277strictly according to the canons <strong>of</strong> contrast.Themouth <strong>is</strong> well <strong>for</strong>med, but aomewhat sensual in itaappearance; the teeth are like two rows<strong>of</strong> jessaminebuds-the dent<strong>is</strong>t and the dentifrice being thingsunknown-and moles imitated with a needle dippedin antimony give a tricolor effect to the oral region.The lips and gums are stained with a bark calledMusag, which communicates an unnatural yellow<strong>is</strong>htinge to them; it <strong>is</strong> not, however, so <strong>of</strong>fensive to theeye as the M<strong>is</strong>ai* <strong>of</strong> India.As large ears are verymuch admired, <strong>that</strong> member <strong>is</strong> flattened out 80 8S topresent as extensive an exterior as possible.Andas pale palms and soles are considered hideous,those parts, the nails included, are stained blood redwith henna leaf.t Finally, hair on the arms being• A powder <strong>of</strong> vitriol, steel filings, and other ingredients. It <strong>is</strong> rubbedinto the roots <strong>of</strong> the teeth as an ant<strong>is</strong>eptic, and a preservation apiDlt theeffects <strong>of</strong> the quicklime, chewed with betel nut; the colour <strong>is</strong> betweenrust and verdigr<strong>is</strong>-the appearance unnatural and <strong>of</strong>f'enaive.t Thia leaf hu two effects upon the akin; it <strong>is</strong> aD utringent u well ua dye. Unlike the noxious metallic compounds <strong>of</strong>Europe it improve8 thehair; the amen <strong>is</strong> not diaagreea.ble, nor <strong>is</strong> the trouble <strong>of</strong> applying it great.Orient&ls suppose <strong>that</strong>. it spoils by keeping, but they are in error. Whenleaving India, I took several bottles <strong>of</strong> it carefully corked or waxed, roundthe Cape, and a Ive months' vOYILP did not injure theircontents in any way.To prepare it the dried lea.veJ mUit be <strong>for</strong>cibly triturated in WU'IIlwater or rice gruel, ten or twelye hours be<strong>for</strong>e UI8 ; it should then beplaced <strong>for</strong> a while in the 8UD, or exposed to gentle h.t. The pute •applied with a bruah-h stains the akin-from the roots to the point <strong>of</strong> tbrtbair when well cleaned with soap or pearlash: five or six hours suftice toproduce a deep brick·dus~ hue, whies a pute <strong>of</strong> iDdigo-leavel &peedilyconverts into a jetty black.•

118 SCENES Ilf 8CINDE.held an unequivocal mark <strong>of</strong> low breeding, it:<strong>is</strong>carefully removed by means <strong>of</strong> a certain depilatorycalled Nureh.* Our lady, you see, wean DOItockinga, but ca1lositiea and other complaints whichcall <strong>for</strong> the chiropod<strong>is</strong>t are not likely to <strong>of</strong>fendonr eyes.The costume I repeat <strong>is</strong> picturesque.There ii,however, I muat confess, something grotesqne inthe decoration <strong>of</strong> the person-nncivil<strong>is</strong>ed and semi.barbarous people can never rest content with thehandywork <strong>of</strong> nature:.they must gild refined gold,tattoo or tan, paint or patch a beautiful skin, dye orchip pearly teeth, and frizzle or powder"hyacinthinelocks,"-deadly sins against taste, these"adulteries<strong>of</strong> art I"In point <strong>of</strong> ornaments, the Scindian lady's taste <strong>is</strong>execrable.Polite Europe now owns <strong>that</strong> a Sevigneadds nothing to the charms <strong>of</strong> a fine <strong>for</strong>ehead andtakes nothingfrom the nncomeliness <strong>of</strong> an ugly one:<strong>that</strong> gold pendula affixed to the ears are vanities,and <strong>that</strong> a simple black velvet band <strong>is</strong> at least aabecoming as circles <strong>of</strong> massive metal or gaudy stones.• Made <strong>of</strong> yellow arsenic (1 oz.) pounded and mixed with quicklime(. m.J till the compound assumes an uni<strong>for</strong>m yellow<strong>is</strong>h tinge. It iaapplied to the skin in a paste made with warm water, and must be wuhedolr after a minute or two, a8 it burns as well as stains. <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> admirableinvention <strong>is</strong> ascribed by western authors to the ingenious Solyman, wbecould not end.ore to lee the ,tate <strong>of</strong> H. M. Bilk<strong>is</strong> <strong>of</strong> Sheba'. bare legs.

JEWELS. 279But unhappily <strong>for</strong> polite Europe, although thedaughter condemns as out <strong>of</strong> date what her motherdelighted to wear, her daughter in her turn willcertainly revert to it because her mother did not,her grandmother did, wear it.none <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> feeling.In the east there <strong>is</strong>The comparative scantiness <strong>of</strong>the toilette calls <strong>for</strong> a number <strong>of</strong> omaments which"like other things oriental" are neither changed norrenewed; handed down as heir-looms in the family,they <strong>for</strong>m a considerable portion <strong>of</strong> its wealth, andare constantly accumulating-the interest upon thecapital they absorb being the intense gratificationwhich the proprietors experience in d<strong>is</strong>playing them.The popular frontal jewel <strong>is</strong> a ponderous concern<strong>of</strong> gold set with crystals or precious stones <strong>of</strong> anyvalue.It '<strong>is</strong> generally divided into three parts, acentre one occupying the middle <strong>of</strong> the <strong>for</strong>eheadflanked by smaller end pieces <strong>that</strong> rest upon the'temples.There <strong>is</strong> a lighter <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> the same article,but both <strong>of</strong> them are too expensive to come withinthe means <strong>of</strong> the poor.The whole ear-lobe, helixand little ear-<strong>is</strong> so covered with weighty omamentsin the shape <strong>of</strong> gold rings, studs, jewelled or enamelledstars, and bell-like pendants, <strong>that</strong> it and its appendagesrequire to be supported with little chains.•Varieties <strong>of</strong> the necklace are as d<strong>is</strong>agreeably

280 SCENES IN BOINDE.abundant.One kind <strong>is</strong> <strong>for</strong>med by simple or doublestrings <strong>of</strong> little or large beads <strong>of</strong> gold, silver, or glassthreaded on silk: it <strong>is</strong> worn tight round the neck.Another <strong>is</strong> a similar omament <strong>of</strong> embossed metal:another a solid collar, looking more like an instrument<strong>of</strong> pun<strong>is</strong>hment than a personaldecoration.The finger rings are generally plain broad or narrowcircles <strong>of</strong> metal: the rich ornament them withprecious stones, and the very fashionable wear uponthe thumb a little looking-glass, in which they areperpetually viewing .their charms. On the arms,*besides a number <strong>of</strong> wr<strong>is</strong>tlets, bracelets, and armlets<strong>of</strong> gold, silver, or ivory, in the shape <strong>of</strong> rings, studs,flowers and chains, solid, hollow, or filled up withmelted rosin, the lady generally carries about atal<strong>is</strong>man or two, t called a Tawiz, carefully <strong>preserved</strong>•and justly considered the most valuable part <strong>of</strong> hertrinkets.It <strong>is</strong> usually a slip <strong>of</strong> paper with a quota..tion from Holy Writ, some curious spell to avertthe evileye, or a song to some dead saint, enclosedin a little silver case and fastened on by black silkthreads, very old, brown and· dirty.A friend <strong>of</strong>•* They never wear the Indian ornaments called "bangles "-thin rinp<strong>of</strong> atained glass or sealing-wu-<strong>of</strong> which every well·dreaed woman weana dozen on eachwr<strong>is</strong>t.t These are the "charactl" <strong>of</strong> ancient days, commonly used in differentparts <strong>of</strong> Europe.

JEWBLS. 281mine who had earned local celebrity <strong>for</strong> writingthem, showed me an ancient gentlewoman who <strong>for</strong>two years had bome the mystic words"C d Me,"-<strong>of</strong> course in our vernacular-curiously and confusedlyd<strong>is</strong>persedletter by letter throughout thesquares, circles, and lozenges, in which the preciousdocument abounded.And although my friend hadon one occasion explained to the old lady in excellentScindee, the purport <strong>of</strong> her " preservation," she,ins<strong>is</strong>ting, wrong-headedly, as seniors at times will;upon the fact <strong>that</strong> she had wom the article inquestion during a very prosperous period <strong>of</strong> her life,decidedly refused to d<strong>is</strong>card it.The anklets as you see resemble the armlets in allpoints, except <strong>that</strong> they contain a greater mass otmetal.Perhaps the prettiest <strong>is</strong> a silver ring setwith a fringe <strong>of</strong> small circular-bells which tinkle atevery motion <strong>of</strong> the fair owner's foot.The rings onthe toes have not an unpleasant effect, and thecommon ones <strong>of</strong> silver enamelled suit the colour ·<strong>of</strong>the henna l'emarkably well.Now the Seindian lady stands be<strong>for</strong>e yon in herveil, frock,-" chem<strong>is</strong>ette" would sound prettier, butbe decidedly incorrect,-boddice,pantaloons, and slip..pers; painted, patched, and dyed; be-ringed, be-neck-

!SISCBNES IN 8CINDE.laced and be-charmed literally from top to toe, bothparts included.Her attitude <strong>is</strong> not an ungracefulone: she carries heraelfwell, never stoops, andobserve,• . !has not round shoulders. In her hand she holds aailken string attached to a tassel <strong>that</strong> contain8 a bit<strong>of</strong>musk, and to the nice conduct <strong>of</strong> th<strong>is</strong> thing shedevotes much <strong>of</strong> her attention.In reply to oursalutations she ra<strong>is</strong>es the right ,hand-never the left-to her <strong>for</strong>ehead and brie1iy ejaculate~" Salam."Ifwe ask her to sit down she will take a chair, butbeing in the habit <strong>of</strong> squatting, she will ~yplace at least one foot upon the seat 80 as to imitate•as nearly as possible the position most Datural toher.If she drops. her pocket-handkerchie(, anarticle <strong>of</strong> toilette used to be looked at not to use,ahe <strong>is</strong> more likely to pick it up with her toea thanwith her fingers-Easterns being all more or leufour-handed animals. In her continual adjustment<strong>of</strong> her veil, Isee a little ennui as well ascoquetting; she <strong>is</strong> tired <strong>of</strong> conversation, <strong>is</strong> not prepared<strong>for</strong> aught savouring <strong>of</strong> fseetiousnees, being"upon her dignity," and longs <strong>for</strong> a pipe. Now,whilBt she <strong>is</strong> puffing it with immense sat<strong>is</strong>faction,inhaling every atom with her lungs, and sedulouslyd<strong>is</strong>playing at the same time <strong>that</strong> she pretends toconceal her arm and wa<strong>is</strong>t, I will oblige you with a

THE SCINDlAN LADy'S EDUCATION. 283hasty biographical sketch as true to nature as I canmake it.Our v<strong>is</strong>itor spent her early years in the harem,where she <strong>was</strong> frequently chast<strong>is</strong>ed by her mama,and where she scolded and romped with, pinchedand scratched the slave girls, and conducted herselfgenerally in a way which would have horrified thecorrect M<strong>is</strong>tress Chapone. At the early age <strong>of</strong> sixshe <strong>was</strong> m<strong>is</strong>tress <strong>of</strong> the ,art <strong>of</strong> abuse and the rudiments<strong>of</strong> play*-here synonymous with cheating.Then commenced her education, she <strong>was</strong> taught tocut out and sew dresses, to knit and embroider, torepeat a few prayers, and as no expense <strong>was</strong> sparedto make her perfect, a female pedagogue attendedto teach her the reading <strong>of</strong> her mother tongue, andthe letters rather than the words <strong>of</strong> the Koran. Ofcourse she <strong>was</strong> not allowed to write, on account <strong>of</strong>the dangerous practices to which <strong>that</strong> attainmentleads. But she <strong>was</strong>ted almost as much time 88 ouryoung ladies do upon music; the only dift'erencebeing <strong>that</strong> instead <strong>of</strong> eliciting d<strong>is</strong>mal sounds- fromthe pian<strong>of</strong>orte, she drummed upon the timbrel, andsedulously exerc<strong>is</strong>ed her voice. From <strong>that</strong> somniflething the drawing-master and the torments <strong>of</strong> the* The games generaUy preferred are dice, cards, a.nd several kinds <strong>of</strong>backgammon played with cowries.,

284 SCENES IN SClBDE."pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong>dancing she <strong>was</strong> sparedi the<strong>for</strong>mer beingyet to be, the latter a purely pr<strong>of</strong>essional, and by nomeans a respectable person in th<strong>is</strong> part <strong>of</strong>the world.Her tenth year found her prepared, in mind, tobecome a matron, and eagerly enough ahe looked<strong>for</strong>ward to the change, because she suspected <strong>that</strong>in the holy state her liberty would not be so sadlycurtailed. One <strong>of</strong> her father's neighbours determinedto obtain her <strong>for</strong> h<strong>is</strong> boy; not because eitherfather or son had seen, admired, or loved the e~c1,but the connection appeared a good one, and theyoungatu <strong>was</strong> old enough <strong>for</strong> a wife.So a ladyMercury <strong>was</strong> despatched to the mother <strong>of</strong>the futurebride with many compliments, and most stringentorders to remark the furniture <strong>of</strong> the house, theconduct <strong>of</strong> its inmates, and particularly the age,countenance, complexion, demeanour, gait, manners,and accompl<strong>is</strong>hments <strong>of</strong> the daughter.The latteron the other hand <strong>was</strong> warned by her parent toconduct herself with the nicest decorum, to squatwith her veil almost covering her head, never toreply till addressed two or three times, and byno means to spit; as her vivacity appeared likelyto get the better <strong>of</strong> prudence, she<strong>was</strong> soundlyslapped to induce a grave and reflective turn <strong>of</strong>mind.

BETROTHAL. 285The v<strong>is</strong>it passed <strong>of</strong>f well, without, however, anything being concluded.The Wakil* hinted at theobject <strong>of</strong> the call, but her hosts being people <strong>of</strong>d<strong>is</strong>tinction, merely replied with the falsehood <strong>of</strong>conoenance, <strong>that</strong> they " had no present intention <strong>of</strong>marrying their daughter."<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong>, the art<strong>is</strong>tic ambassadress,who has grown old in the art <strong>of</strong> makingevery one's business her own, knew perfectly well,­meant <strong>that</strong> they intended doing so at the firstpossible opportunity. So she returned to heremployer and reported success.As a second v<strong>is</strong>it <strong>of</strong> the kind must Dot take placebe<strong>for</strong>e a month has elapsed,the parents <strong>of</strong> the futurecouple spent their time in collecting all kinds <strong>of</strong>in<strong>for</strong>mation about the young people from friendsand neighbours, who systematically withheld it,because they expected a feast when the affair came<strong>of</strong>f.The next am1JtJ88ade <strong>was</strong> a dec<strong>is</strong>ive one, anda lucky day at a decent d<strong>is</strong>tance <strong>of</strong> time waa fixedupon <strong>for</strong> the preliminary rite <strong>of</strong> betrothal.On the evening appointed the boy's relations <strong>of</strong>both sexes assembled, and repaired with music andfireworks to the young lady's house, carrying a• The Wakil, cl go-between," or "Mrs. Gad-about," 88 th<strong>is</strong> claea <strong>is</strong>called by an Engl<strong>is</strong>h lady, who wrote an amusing and, curious to .7, anaccurate <strong>book</strong> about India. "Mn. Mir Hassan Ali's ObsenatioDl on the}IUl8ulmans <strong>of</strong> India, 1832."

286present <strong>of</strong> bijouterie and dresses. They found everything prepared <strong>for</strong> their reception; the men's roomawere strewed with pipes, the Zenanah or GyJueceumW88 spread with the best carpets and hung withhuge nosegays <strong>of</strong> strong scented flowers.The intended<strong>was</strong> publicly dressed in new clothes <strong>of</strong> themoat expensive description, and ornamented withgarlands, and the jewels sent by the bridegroom;henna W88 then placed upon her hands, and she wuseated in a conspicuous part <strong>of</strong> the room, the centre<strong>of</strong> all attraction.There she continued <strong>for</strong> a whilemodestly confused with eyes fixed on the ground,Her mother then summoning the barber's wife, orrather the female barber-an important personageon these occasions-desired her to carry a pot <strong>of</strong>milk and a tray <strong>of</strong> sweetmeats into the gentlemen'sapartments.<strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> the old lady did, and with muchjesting and railing made the party eat, drink, andbe merry.She stayed with them till they all recitedthe Fatihah, or opening chapter <strong>of</strong> the Koran, withra<strong>is</strong>ed hands.The father <strong>of</strong> the bride who W88concealing h<strong>is</strong> intense delight at getting rid <strong>of</strong> the,If,jftl household calamity," namely, a daughter, with 8mingled expression <strong>of</strong> griefand shame, then appointeda day <strong>for</strong> the nuptial ceremony. Next took place agreat ate, beginning with a feast, and ending with

¥ARRIAGL 287music and dancing; festivities eontinued <strong>for</strong> abouta ·week, and with them concluded the preliminary<strong>of</strong> betrothal.At th<strong>is</strong> stage <strong>of</strong> the proceeding it <strong>is</strong> coDBidered80mewhat d<strong>is</strong>honourable to break <strong>of</strong>f a match. Atthe same time there <strong>is</strong> no such nonsense in Islam as• suit <strong>for</strong> breach <strong>of</strong> prom<strong>is</strong>e a demand <strong>for</strong> coinswherewith to salve broken heart and wounded feelings.Nor <strong>is</strong> there any religious impediment to •d<strong>is</strong>aolntion <strong>of</strong> the engagement. After the ceremony,as be<strong>for</strong>e it, the bridegroom <strong>is</strong> never, strictly speak.­ing, allowed to see h<strong>is</strong> intended; but as, all theworld over, <strong>that</strong> <strong>for</strong>midable person, the mother-inlaw,<strong>is</strong> at th<strong>is</strong> stage <strong>of</strong> the proceedings d<strong>is</strong>posed toregard her new son with favour, such events are byno means 80 rare 88 they should be.The lady <strong>was</strong> married about a year after herbetrothal, a delay politely long, as hurry towardsmatrimony <strong>is</strong> considered a suspicions sign. No sum<strong>of</strong> money <strong>that</strong> the family could af<strong>for</strong>d Jras spared:feastings and merry-makings began a month or sixweeks be<strong>for</strong>e the ceremony. All <strong>that</strong> 8cindian artcoo1d do W88 put into requ<strong>is</strong>ition to make the bridelook 88 prettyas possible. Cosmetics, oils, unguents,dyes, perfumes, depilatories, the paint brush, and thetweezers, were pressed into the service; each lady <strong>of</strong>

288 SCENES IN 8CINDB.the thousand v<strong>is</strong>itors and every attendant abigail,haring some infallible recipe <strong>for</strong>" Enhancing charm&-oonceaJing ugliness,·and with truly feminine pertinacity ins<strong>is</strong>ting upontrying it.The wonder <strong>was</strong> <strong>that</strong>, what with theirvellications and shampooings, eternal bathings, andstuffings with ehuro,* rubbings with sandal woodand pitiless scourings with pithi,t they left the poorgirl any beauty at all.exhausted upon the lady:Most <strong>of</strong> the torment <strong>was</strong>the hajjam or barbercontented himself with "cleaning" the male patient,and the friends <strong>of</strong> the family exerc<strong>is</strong>ed their activeminds in dressing him up, so as to give him as muchas possible the appearance <strong>of</strong> being a (t gentlemanlylookingyoung man."To describe all the nowutterly meaningless puerilitiesand the succession <strong>of</strong> feasts <strong>that</strong> constituted the• marriage in high life would be a task as tedious 88 it<strong>is</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>itless.Briefly to allude to them, both familieskept open houses and invited all their relationsmorning and evening, eating, drinking, smoking andchatting all the day, and filling up the night with• Chura, an unleavened cake <strong>of</strong> wheaten Bour made into dough withclarified butter, and mixed with brown sugar--a bilioUi m8ll, popularlyIUpposed to increase the delicacy <strong>of</strong> the skin.t A sueeedaneum <strong>for</strong> soap, composed <strong>of</strong> sweet oil and the flour <strong>of</strong> muh--- kind <strong>of</strong> phaseolul.

MARRIAGE. 289dances, in which pr<strong>of</strong>essional per<strong>for</strong>mers d<strong>is</strong>playedtheir charms, whilst bands<strong>of</strong> most unmusical instrumentsscreamed, jingledandrattled outside the doors<strong>for</strong> the edification <strong>of</strong> the excluded vulgar.A number<strong>of</strong> presents passed between the bride and the bridegroom,a series <strong>of</strong> v<strong>is</strong>its kept their relations, to usea native phrase, in the state <strong>of</strong> "<strong>was</strong>herman's dogs'twixt house and pond."*Dresses and jewels werecanvassed, prepared, tried on, and scrutin<strong>is</strong>ed withreligious care; the bridal paraphemalia t cons<strong>is</strong>ting<strong>of</strong> clothes, garlands, dressing-cases, trinkets, and anumber <strong>of</strong> articles <strong>of</strong> furniture, were sent by thegentleman to the lady, and finally expiatory eeremo­Dies were per<strong>for</strong>med so 88to defeat all the malevolentintentions <strong>of</strong> the fiend and the evil-eye.Next came the Church's part <strong>of</strong> the solemnity.On the evening appointed, the cazee, or the mulla,<strong>was</strong> requested to be present at the house <strong>of</strong> thebridegroom's father, where there <strong>was</strong> a gathering <strong>of</strong>both families, the female BeX, however, being strictlyexcluded.Then the priest, in set phrase, thrice• Literally," belonging neither to house nor gbaut"-- laundry-Place,upon the ate,. <strong>of</strong> which the men <strong>of</strong> suds are wont to ply \heir wcation.t <strong>Th<strong>is</strong></strong> <strong>is</strong> the jahez, or dowry. It <strong>is</strong> the lady"1 propeny, descends toher children, and in ease <strong>of</strong> her dying without iane belonp to her nearest<strong>of</strong>kin. The settlement made by the bridegroom <strong>is</strong> called the mabr. It<strong>is</strong> a religiou8 obligation, without which DO Dlal'riage <strong>is</strong> lawful: as,ho-.eve r,the bride <strong>is</strong> allowed to remit an indefiDite portion <strong>of</strong>it,it <strong>is</strong> more genenUYowed than paid.VOL. Lo

290 SCDM III 8CUDE..ked the yoang lady. puent, who had constitutedhimself her tnatee, whether he agreed to marry h<strong>is</strong>daughter to such and such a perIOD. He ftS}lOndedsolemnlyin the affirmative. Upon th<strong>is</strong> the JIUU'I'iage.ettlementa were made; and as the father <strong>of</strong> thebride w<strong>is</strong>hed to give 88 little and to ftCei,e as IIllIChas pouible; moreover as, strange to relate, the father<strong>of</strong> the bridegroom eeemed pooaelsed by a spirit <strong>of</strong>direct opposition to h<strong>is</strong> futme connection, the acene<strong>that</strong> ensued <strong>was</strong> an Animated, but by DO mean- adecoroua one.It ended in the old way, when athing must be done, by both parties giving up a littleto each other. Then the cazee, r<strong>is</strong>ing from h<strong>is</strong> seat,began to recite Arabie prayen, benedictions, thenuptial contract, and certain chapters <strong>of</strong> the Koran,setting <strong>for</strong>th the beauties <strong>of</strong> matrimony, and thelovely lives <strong>of</strong> hen-pecked patriarchs and prophets.Concluded th<strong>is</strong> affectingpart <strong>of</strong>the ritewith a generalcongratulation and a heavy pull upon the father <strong>of</strong>the bridegroom's purse by the holy man,* and allthose who could find the least pretext to ass<strong>is</strong>t themin the operation. Presents <strong>of</strong> camels, .horses, goldhiltedswords, dresses <strong>of</strong> honour, ornaments, and• The Koran does n()t permit cazeea to take fees <strong>for</strong> marrying, readiDIprayen to, and burying the Faithful Revelation having been unacmmmodatingin th<strong>is</strong> little matter, the holy men are obliged to content tbemM1ft1wit.b daily pay. occuional preaentl,aDd grants <strong>of</strong> land.

MARRIAGE. 291jewellery, were showered about in such pr<strong>of</strong>usion<strong>that</strong> even to the present day the poor man feels thee1fects <strong>of</strong> a liberality, which nothing could haveprovoked but the absolute certainty, <strong>that</strong> upon itdepended <strong>for</strong> ex<strong>is</strong>tence h<strong>is</strong> own good name and therespect <strong>of</strong> all h<strong>is</strong> fepows.Presently the nocturnal prooouion took place.The bridegroom <strong>was</strong> bathed, dressed, garlanded, andadorned with all the attention due to 10 importantan occasion. Mounted on a ..hite hone, and81U'1'ounded by a crowd <strong>of</strong> relations, frienda, andIpeCtatorB, with flags and fireworks, musiciaN"gymnasts, and dancing girls, he paraded throughtJ1e streeta, v<strong>is</strong>ited the mosque if be bad time,and at Jut reached the bride's home.He thend<strong>is</strong>mounted and ..... led or curied into the court­~ where the women <strong>of</strong> the family receired him:he entered the male assembly, and w... almostiJDmediately removed to the~ where the ladyanited h<strong>is</strong> coming" A number<strong>of</strong> unjntereating ceremoaieafollow~~ &nally, the "happy couple"were JeCt together with the plea.nt certainty <strong>that</strong> atc1aWll they mUlt mrely rile to bathe, dreu, .y theirprayers, and receive the eongratolatiOIll <strong>of</strong> theirfrienda.Oar Scindian Jady-she signifies <strong>that</strong> she wants

292 SCENES m SCIIIDB.another pipe-then entered upon life in real eameBt.She <strong>was</strong> permitted by her religion to call upon herparents once a week; * she did 80 once a day, 8ODl6­times twice, and her husband, as might be expected,felt the results. Availing herself <strong>of</strong> the privilege <strong>of</strong>womanhood, she added smoking and the chewing <strong>of</strong>betel-nut to her other accompl<strong>is</strong>hments. She spenther hours in decorating herself, not to fascinate theeye <strong>of</strong> her spouse 81 she ought to have done, butwith the strictly feminine object <strong>of</strong> exciting the envy,hate, and malice <strong>of</strong> all her dear family, friends andacquaintances, by a d<strong>is</strong>play <strong>of</strong>dresses. She punetnaUyattended all feastings and junketings, nor didshe neglect the fairs at the tombs <strong>of</strong> saints, andother religious assemblies, where religion <strong>is</strong> usuallythe thing least thought <strong>of</strong>. She had prom<strong>is</strong>ed., Dotas our ladies do, but by proxy, to ~'love, honour, andobey," her goodman: she did neither th<strong>is</strong>, <strong>that</strong>, northe other. Old Saadi, the Oriental moral<strong>is</strong>t-aboutas moral a writer, by-the-by, as Pietro Aretino, orPigault Lebrun-makes it the test <strong>of</strong> respectabilityin a house, <strong>that</strong> woman's voice should never be heardbeyond its walls. The fair Scindian knows nought• Be<strong>for</strong>e the birth <strong>of</strong> the fint child. All the terron <strong>of</strong> religion, .tripesincluded, are directed against the wife who dares to v<strong>is</strong>it her .-engwithout her. husband's order. What can the poor woman do but dulyand openly diIobey them?

un APDJt ••••1AGL• SaiIi, aDd cats ahDal .. mne1l <strong>for</strong> h<strong>is</strong> teIII:s aDd..oP·. .: Ilhe.-aed aer lms1Imd wida....:a-)y~loadly aDd DWE+*tably at all hoan.After tlIe 1Jirda mthe ira dWdtDe~ .i~• ,. Die DG';"" bepn to gadaer. The Wy had....~a little tDo fmelyilltae p1eaHJes<strong>of</strong>-.... cJan did her cuponDy ... the ..... Be-..w _ft bepn tJ.t diIcipline eaDier.Ivstead• how~ aer ~ she te.p·rhd <strong>that</strong> h<strong>is</strong> moe ...a «hDek at.ion <strong>of</strong> GocPL" He,~iDdiguDtat the tnth m the~ret.arted by lDU'y aCUlIleill query-rc.m. to which she replied eate­PIiaDy. A faWus qoatrel <strong>was</strong> the resnlt.. FortDmtely<strong>for</strong> OlD' v<strong>is</strong>itor, Scinde then belonged toa c:mJiEd people. who _hang ~a~men tat kiDs m. better half..* When the c.-oapleidUecl to relit <strong>that</strong> mpt, the hu~ reGectiDg <strong>for</strong>the fiat tin.., upon the bJeaings <strong>of</strong> polygamy, halfdet.enaiDed to take to bimeelf a aecond wife, and the1IIdy iDdipaatly mnniug over the l<strong>is</strong>t <strong>of</strong> hergrievances, firmly re.o"ed to provide henelf with a•• Tbe Lame ... oaDGa'BiDg atlult.ay <strong>is</strong> uuerly~ faT ~-.nl........, al •••ity ..... die Be • the-s_ tile~ill lelsm WMn we rule we IhoaW~ <strong>that</strong> takiDg away a mml'$GIlly mana to IeCIU'e Jaia boooar, it it our duty to prm"idr him wi\h_ odaer ,....,..a-, wIUda pcnlly "JI'"'3kinlJ we line DOl ec.e.02

294 SCENES IN SCINDE.eicUlJeo. She would have demanded divorce from.t<strong>that</strong> man" but <strong>for</strong> two reasons; in the first place,by such step, she would have <strong>for</strong>feited all her claimsto the mahr, or settlement; and secondly, she didnot anticipate much happiness in returning home tobe scolded by her mother, lectured by her fathez,snubbed by her brothers, and be sedulously watchedand guarded by all. But she did not fail, knowinghow much it would annoy her husband, to call uponIt dear ma" as <strong>of</strong>ten as possible, to detail all her4\m<strong>is</strong>eries, and to throw" dear ma's" words in h<strong>is</strong>face at every opportunity.Finally, she threatenedhim with her father, and complained to her brotherswith such .aeaiduity, <strong>that</strong> the spouse, quite e3Jcedi,presently provided her with a lawful rival, she him•with an unlawful one.In Moslem countries polygamy <strong>is</strong> the exception,not the rule. It <strong>is</strong> confined to the upper and. middle classes, who can af<strong>for</strong>d themselves the luxury,and a first wife <strong>is</strong> seldom superseded unless <strong>is</strong>sue bewanting, or incompatibility <strong>of</strong> temper render themeasure adv<strong>is</strong>able.The equitable law <strong>of</strong> the Koranconcerning the marriage-settlement effectually preventsthe abuse <strong>of</strong> divorce on an extensive scale; <strong>for</strong>a few rich nobles may, the many poor cannot, af<strong>for</strong>dto pay the <strong>for</strong>tune <strong>of</strong> every woman they w<strong>is</strong>h to put

POLYGAMY. 295out <strong>of</strong> the house. Wives are limited to four-thenumber fixed by the Koran, and approved <strong>of</strong> byexperience. One wife quarrels with you; two aresure to involve y~u in their squabbles, which endonly to recommence, because they are equallymatched; and when you have three a faction <strong>is</strong>always <strong>for</strong>med against her you love best, so as tomake her hours bitter. But four find society andoccupation <strong>for</strong> themselves; <strong>of</strong> course they divideinto two parties, -but- you, oh husband, are comparativelycom<strong>for</strong>table.How very self<strong>is</strong>h men are I .You must not run away with the opinion, Mr. JohnBull, <strong>that</strong> these four ladies all occupy the same apartments.Were <strong>that</strong>·the case, there would soon bemurder in the house. Each has her own suite <strong>of</strong>rooms, her attendants, and her private eatabl<strong>is</strong>hment.In theirintercourse there <strong>is</strong> much ceremony; no ladycalls upon her neighbour without sending a previonsmessage, and the relatives, friends, and acquaintances<strong>of</strong>" the one are not expected to show any attention tothe other. A certain amount <strong>of</strong> d<strong>is</strong>cipline <strong>is</strong> maintainedby the first wife, who generally commands thefemale brigade, and the law <strong>of</strong> the Koran condemnsthe Moslem <strong>that</strong> allows himself to feel an undue partiality<strong>for</strong> anyone <strong>of</strong> h<strong>is</strong> four 8PO~es. Fortunately

296 SCENES IN SCINDE..,I<strong>for</strong> Scinde, the fair sex <strong>is</strong> not skilful in toxicology88 are the dark dames <strong>of</strong> India, nor have they thestout hearts and sturdy arms which <strong>of</strong>ten render theburly beauties <strong>of</strong> A1fghan<strong>is</strong>tan truly <strong>for</strong>midable to 4\their husbands. .will.After what I have told you about our v<strong>is</strong>itor, youreadily believe <strong>that</strong> she <strong>is</strong> not so good amother as the Hindoo woman <strong>is</strong>.She considers everychild a d<strong>is</strong>advantage, as it robs her <strong>of</strong> the freshness<strong>of</strong> her charms. She has to make the most <strong>of</strong> her.time, expecting to be an old woman at thirty, andmaternal duties are apt sadly to interfere with thepursuit <strong>of</strong> excitement, and the enjoyment <strong>of</strong> pleasure.But she also feels <strong>that</strong> her position in society-and ~what will not a woman do <strong>for</strong> position ?-mainlydepends <strong>for</strong> ex<strong>is</strong>tence and continuance upon her <strong>of</strong>f-spring.If she has not a son, as soon as w~e8appear she will be cast aside like an antiquated piece<strong>of</strong> furniture, doomed to the lumber-room till it fallsto dust.Her rival, against whom she has foughtthrough life-all <strong>for</strong> hate <strong>of</strong> course, not <strong>for</strong> love, withthe spirit <strong>of</strong> a heroine, and the zeal <strong>of</strong> a J eanit-willgloriously win the day: her husband will desp<strong>is</strong>e hertill he <strong>for</strong>gets her jher family will neglect her as amost unpr<strong>of</strong>itable person; briefly,there<strong>is</strong> no knowinghow dark her future fate may be.So she does notII

THE SCINDIAN LADY. 297utterly neglect herchildren; in their infancy she sees<strong>that</strong> they are fed and bathed, and, as they growolder, she takes more care <strong>of</strong> them; they becomethe weapons with which she hopes, by Allah's' aid, todrive the fellow wife out <strong>of</strong> the well-fought field.Soon our Scindian lady, after prolonging the evilday as much as possible, will turn her back uponpleasure, and apply herself either to unremittingintrigue <strong>for</strong> the benefit <strong>of</strong> her <strong>of</strong>fspring, or becomevery devout and very d<strong>is</strong>agreeable, inveighing bitterlyagainst the vanities <strong>of</strong> the world-<strong>for</strong>the usual reason,because she can no longer enjoy them; and censuringthe "young people <strong>of</strong> the present day" because shebelongs to another generation. Her son and herdaughter will grow up; she will become a motherin-lawin her turn. Then her husband will passaway; she removes her ornaments, refrains fromperfumes and scented oils, dresses herself in dirtywhite garments, and tradition<strong>is</strong>es about, and anticipatesreunion with her poor dear Jan Mohammed"exactly as if she had been a Brit<strong>is</strong>h matron. And soon:-thelights wane-the stage darkens-the curtaindescends.END OF VOL. I.

LOlfDON:BBADBUBT AlID J:VAN&, PRI~TEBS, WmTBFBIAB~.