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Riesling Report 

An online magazine for Riesling fanatics 

Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

Steep vineyards, slate soil and sunny sites create stunning wines 

MAY/JUNE 2000 

ALSO ALSO IN THIS THIS ISSUE: ISSUE: 

A First First Look Look at 1999 1999 

Estate Estate Reviews: Reviews: 

Joh. Joh. Jos. Jos. Prüm Prüm 

von von Schubert/Grünhaus 

Schubert/Grünhaus 

Zilliken Zilliken 

German German Auctions Auctions 

www.rieslingreport.com 

www.rieslingreport.com

CONTENTS 

BOOK REVIEW Stuart Pigott’s Mosel & Rheingau travel guide 3 

RIESLING NEWS A first look at Germany’s 1999 vintage 4 

ON THE COVER Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 9 

Top vineyards 12 

Finest estates 16 

ESTATE REVIEWS Joh. Jos. Prüm (Mosel) 19 

Tasting Notes 20 

Gold Capsule Auslese tasting 21 

Zilliken (Saar) 23 


von Schubert-Grünhaus (Ruwer) 26 


TASTINGS More 1998 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 30 

1999 German Auction Wines 33 

THE LAST PAGE Rating the wines | Next Issue 36 

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Masters of 

understatement 

HERE’S WHY WE LOVE the Mosel 

so much: While tasting through the 

’99s at J.J. Prüm, a few questions 

were raised about the taciturn ’98s. 

Dr. Manfred’s response was to 

unceremoniously uncork a bottle of 

1998 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Long 

Gold Capsule Auslese, his auction 

wine. A few mind-blowing sips 

later, he spoke, softly and without 

dissimulation: “I think, after some 

years, it will be a good experience 

to taste this wine.” 

It’s that remarkably understated 

directness that has captivated us. 

In Kubrickian terms, the soul of 

Mosel Rieslings is in their ‘purity of 

essence.’ These precious fluids go 

straight to the heart of the matter – 

fruit, vineyard, winemaker – with 

no need for circumstantial pomp 

and fanfare. 

Manfred’s Auslese is stunning 

now in its lusty infancy, and “after 

some years,” it will be gloriously 

complex and harmonious. Yet all 

the while it will retain its understated 

dignity and charm. We find 

it refreshing that in this sanitized, 

homogenized, computerized life we 

lead, there’s at least one thing that 

remains essentially pure. 

—Kirk Wille, editor & publisher 

www.RieslingReport.com 2 

© May/June 2000

BOOK REVIEW 

WHEN ONE IS ON THE ROAD, there is nothing so reassuring as having 

a handy packet of solidly useful information. Mitchell Beazley, the 

London-based publisher of some of the world’s best wine books, is the 

source of the excellent series Touring in Wine Country, a thoughtfully 

written and well-researched collection of guide books covering winegrowing 

areas from the Loire Valley to Tuscany. Written by highly acclaimed 

luminaries in the field, the series is edited by Hugh Johnson. Naturally, 

one of our favorites in the series is Stuart Pigott’s volume covering the 

Mosel & Rheingau, which also conveniently includes the Ahr, Nahe, 

Rheinhessen and Pfalz. Mr. Pigott is one of the world’s greatest authorities 

on German wines, and this is an indispensable book for any wine lover 

who plans to visit these glorious wine regions. 

Following a short introduction, which includes concise and practical 

information on grape varieties, viticulture, wine classification and cuisine, 

the book leads the reader through individual communes and villages, 

beginning in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and winding its way to the Pfalz. The 

format in all of the books in this series is the same: The main body of text 

discusses a proposed route of travel, describing sights and points of interest 

along the way. In the sidebars are listed wine producers, hotels, restaurants 

and other places of interest, with short descriptions of each. A lavish 

assortment of photos is scattered throughout, along with maps of the various 

regions. 

One simple but key element that this book features is the telephone 

number for each and every producer listed. I have used five different 

books in this series so far on my travels, and this is the only one that 

includes this obviously critical detail. It’s not difficult to find a local telephone 

book once there, but I applaud Mr. Pigott for having the prescience 

to give us this basic information, understanding that the polite and practical 

among us would like to make appointments in advance, from home. 

Perhaps the best feature of the book is the inclusion of incredibly 

complete and detailed maps, identical to the ones in Hugh Johnson’s 

famous World Atlas of Wine. There are quite simply no other wine maps 

like these, which detail with near-painful precision each vineyard, contour 

and path, and often even individual buildings in the area. The names and 

boundaries of the vineyards are clearly marked, which makes it very 

useful when one is standing in front of a vast wall of vineyards, gazing 

helplessly at the vinous splendor displayed. 

This may sound like a lot of information to pack into one book, and 

images of a leaden and voluminous tome perhaps come to mind. Not true 

at all. Measuring only 10 by 5.75 inches and only one-half inch thick, this 

weighs a mere one pound (.45 kilos) and is compact enough to satisfy the 

most diligently spartan and space-conscious travelers. I never travel with 

more than 33 pounds (15 kilos) of baggage if I can help it, and I can always 

find room to stash a book of this size. 

If you are planning a trip to Germany, or even if you are speculating 

that you might want to do so someday, I would highly recommend the 

addition of this book to your library. 

Touring in Wine Country: 

The Mosel & Rheingau 

by Stuart Pigott 

Mitchell Beazley 

Softcover 152 pp. 

First published 1997 

by Peter Liem 


© May/June 2000

RIESLING NEWS 

1999 Germany: A First Look 

EACH SPRING, THE MEMBERS OF THE VERBANDS DEUTSCHER 

Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) gather in Mainz for the Mainzer Weinbörse, a 

trade show held to unveil the new vintage. While a large trade show is not 

the ideal environment for serious analytical tasting, it does offer the 

opportunity to sample a wide range of wines and thus gain a reasonable 

perspective of the vintage in general. 

The event itself carries a little controversy, as it is held quite early in 

the year. “This is a mistake to show the wines so early,” lamented 

Christoph Tyrell, echoing a sentiment shared by nearly everybody I talked 

to. “They are really not showing very well.” For this reason, some people 

chose to show only lower-level wines and bring higher-end ’98s instead, 

or in the case of Ernst Dautel, to bring no ’99s at all. Ernie Loosen of 

Dr. Loosen was unable even to show up, as his unbottled ’99s had not yet 

received AP numbers, a requirement for presentation at the Weinbörse. 

Most people, though, were very optimistic about the vintage. Hanno 

Zilliken said, “It is a great gift of the century. You can compare it to ’59 and 

’76.” Zilliken noted, though, that while there were similar weather conditions 

in the ’59 vintage, the style of winemaking at the time was much 

different, with longer fermentations contributing to heavier, more powerful 

wines. 

Martin Tesch was similarly enthused, saying that it is a vintage of 

“extremely good quality, better than ’98, better than ’76.” There were 

more than a few producers, though, who hinted that overcropping led to 

dilution for many. As in many other places in Europe, limited yields to 

control natural exuberance is a key factor in this vintage. 

The ’99s reminded me very much of the ’97s at this stage, very round 

and forward, with succulent, precocious appeal. There is nothing shy or 

reticent about these wines – they boldly offer what they have to give, 

sometimes a little too easily. Most wines from top producers retain a good 

balance of acidity, though, despite the great ripeness. “The acidity is fresh 

but not too aggressive,” says Thomas Haag, pointing out that the wines 

are very harmonious from the outset. 

Because of their accessibility, the ’99s will have wide 

appeal. They are excellent introductions to German 

Riesling, but fans of classically built wines will miss the 

tightly wound purity and scintillatingly defined finesse 

of vintages such as ’98, ’96 or ’94. However, it is my 

belief that with the current string of unbelievably good 

vintages, winemakers have better learned how to deal 

with ripe fruit, and warm-vintage wines in the modern 

aesthetic demonstrate an increasingly better balance 

and structure. While it is still too early to make definitive 

statements about individual wines, I offer here 

some highlights from the two days of tasting. 

by Peter Liem 

Riesling Report tasting director Peter Liem, 

hard at work at the Mainzer Weinbörse in 

early April. 

The Rheingoldhalle in Mainz, 

home of the annual VDP trade show. 


© May/June 2000

RIESLING NEWS | A first look at Germany’s 1999 vintage 

Saar and Ruwer 

I found the most balanced wines to 

come from the Saar and Ruwer 

valleys, which is often the case in 

very warm vintages. The high acidities 

prevalent in these two valleys 

generally ensure that adequate 

structure will be achieved despite 

tremendous ripeness. “This is the 

best vintage ever for my estate,” 

said Christoph Tyrell of the great 

Ruwer estate Karthäuserhof, 

“even better than ’97.” Crisp, ripely 

floral and superbly balanced, his 

wines show the clean, racy, almost 

electric acidity that they are famous 

for, paired with great depth of fruit 

and complexity of character. 

From the Saar, Zilliken delivered an exuberantly fruity line of wines 

that were reminiscent of the excellent ’97s, but perhaps with even a little 

bit better structure in many of them. I especially liked a creamy and rich 

Auslese halbtrocken from the Saarburger Rausch. Schloss Saarstein 

also showed a very promising lineup of wines, typically taut and crunchy, 

but with plenty of ripe fruit to balance the high acidities, preventing the 

wines from being too austere. “Ninety-nine was an outstanding vintage, 

with incredible ripeness, but not typical for the Saar,” said Christian 

Ebert. He made a series of rich, high-end Auslese, of which the impressive 

Nr. 12 (the ‘smallest’ of the four) was shown. I also liked the wines from 

von Hövel, especially the focused and nearly tropical Spätlese and 

Auslese from Oberemmeler Hütte. An Auslese from the great Scharzhofberger 

vineyard seemed a little too round and soft in comparison. 

The Mosel 

The Mosel valley fared well, and quality-conscious producers who reduced 

their crop levels were able to make succulently ripe wines that, again, 

often resembled the 1997s in profile. Schloss Lieser’s Thomas Haag has 

established himself firmly in the top rank of Mosel producers, and his 

wonderfully perfumed and complex ’99s from the Niederberg Helden 

vineyard could be his best efforts yet. His father, Wilhelm Haag of Fritz 

Haag, also showed very compelling wines, seemingly more extroverted 

and outgoing than the quietly introspective ’98s, but still very much in the 

elegant and discreetly refined style that is the hallmark of this estate. 

Some of Joh. Jos. Christoffel’s ’99s seemed a bit easygoing and 

loose after the scintillating ’98s, but I have noticed that his wines seem to 

change more radically than most during the first year, and the material 

here could develop very well. The ‘starred’ Auslese were particularly 

impressive, as usual – sleekly aristocratic and enticing. Mönchhof 

presented a line of richly concentrated, surprisingly botrytis-affected 

wines. I am not a fan of the new trend of ‘Beerenauslese’ Spätlese, where 

The Mainzer Weinbörse attracts trade and press tasters from all over the world who come to 

evaluate the new vintage. 


© May/June 2000


wines are declassified in almost caricatured fashion. But the style of the 

wines aside, these were very well made, showing a uniformly good balance 

of acidity and a creamy opulence. I preferred their wines from Erden over 

the Ürzigers, especially the gripping Auslese from the magnificent Prälat. 

Raimund Prüm of S.A. Prüm describes his ’99s as “very high-end wines,” 

and the ones he showed were richly decadent and plush, with just enough 

acidity to hold them together. He also made an Eiswein from Bernkasteler 

Lay that is quite promising. 

Rheingau, Mittelrhein and Nahe 

The Rheingau seemed to be the least consistent region, with a lot of wines 

appearing diluted and lacking focus. The Kiedrich Gräfenberg wines from 

Robert Weil were uniformly superb, unsurprisingly, especially the 

cleanly elegant Auslese and the typically breathtaking Beerenauslese and 

Eiswein. Franz Künstler also had a promising Beerenauslese, though I 

was somewhat less excited about the lower Prädikat levels. 

In the Mittelrhein, the wines from Toni Jost were good, more open 

and loose-knit compared to the ’98s, in the profile of the vintage. The 

Bacharacher Hahn was huge and concentrated – I’d rather see this level 

of must-weight and botrytis classified as Gold Cap or some other special 

designation, but the wine was good – better than an equally BA-like 

Auslese from Wallufer Walkenberg. A Beerenauslese from the Hahn also 

was lovely – more concentrated than the Auslese, but also more focused 

and altogether finer. 

From the Nahe, Tesch made rich, round and appealing wines, most 

notably from the Löhrer Berg, though a Beerenauslese from the St. 

Remigiusberg vineyard was very harmonious. Six out of the 10 wines from 

Dr. Crusius were trocken and two were halbtrocken, but a wonderfully 

fruity Spätlese from Schloßbockelheimer Felsenberg towered over all of 

these, showing greater complexity, depth, breed and expression. 

Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Franken 

Gunderloch was the star of the Rheinhessen, as usual. Only ’99s up 

to the Jean Baptiste Kabinett were shown, as the rest were not deemed 

ready to present. These were good, but upon having the opportunity later 

to taste the entire line, I noticed a marked superiority in the higher 

Prädikat levels. 

In the Pfalz, Pfeffingen made richly concentrated wines, bold in 

profile, but with good buffering acidity. I also tasted impressive wines 

from Josef Biffar, especially from the Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker. 

The great Baden producer Dr. Heger showed four trocken Spätlese, from 

Silvaner, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder and Riesling. All were excellent, 

with uncommon depth, balance and style. 

From Franken region, selected wines from Hans Wirsching showed 

well, especially a Spätlese halbtrocken from Iphöfer Kronsberg. 

In the cellar of Bernhard Breuer 

Following the Weinbörse, we also had the opportunity to attend a private 

event held in the cellars of Bernhard Breuer, where a few producers had 

gathered to present their wines in more intimate surroundings than the 

“There is a lot that is attractive 

about 1999, and it promises 

to be a worthy successor to 

the glorious string of highquality 

vintages that Germany 

is currently enjoying.” 


© May/June 2000


chaos of the larger function. Dönnhoff brought a deliciously creamy 

Weissburgunder, with a rich depth reminiscent of the best from Austria, 

and a roundly balanced Riesling Spätlese trocken from the Herrmannshöhle 

that I wish more people would taste and learn from. The 

Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese was superb, as always – finely wound and 

thoroughly aristocratic. Our host Georg Breuer poured a seductively 

extracted Auslese from Berg Rottland, with all the breed of that great site, 

while a Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese from Reichsgraf von 

Kesselstatt seemed more powerful and deeply concentrated than recent 

wines from this estate. 

All in all, I was very pleased with the ’99 wines that I tasted. The wines 

are simply delicious to drink. It will be difficult to keep your hands off of 

them when they are released (and I certainly hope you are able to get your 

hands on some of them). The question of aging is a nebulous one: 

although the wines will drink well young, Riesling is intrinsically built to 

last. For example, 1976, to which ’99 is widely compared, is a vintage that 

is still drinking phenomenally well, provided that the wines have been 

properly stored, of course. I would surmise that most of the qualityminded 

’99s will begin to drink well after five to six years, and ought to be 

at their best between 10 and 15 years after the vintage. These are vague 

generalizations, of course, and ought to be regarded as such, as every 

wine, like every person, has its own peculiar profile. Suffice it to say, there 

is a lot that is attractive about 1999, and it promises to be a worthy successor 

to the glorious string of high-quality vintages that Germany is 

currently enjoying. 

More tastings in Germany 

by Kirk Wille 

There were still a fair number of important estates that did not attend the 

Weinbörse. Fortunately, although Peter had to head east to Austria, I went 

west and was able to visit a few. I am happy to report that at least one 

other Rheingau estate, Johannishof, made superb wines in 1999 in spite 

of September rains that diluted so many producers’ wines. The Johannisberger 

Hölle and Vogelsang vineyards showed especially well. 

On the Mosel, Dr. Loosen had a terrific lineup of rich, concentrated 

wines. Even though none of them had been through the final filtration, 

which will give them more definition, the wines all showed superb structure 

with deliciously complex fruit and a firm core of minerally acidity. 

Vineyard character was in good form, with the fine and fruity Wehlener 

Sonnenuhr, the flamboyantly fruity Ürziger Würzgarten, the firm minerals 

of Erdener Treppchen, and the dense and powerful Erdener Prälat. 

Especially impressive were the immaculately clean botrytized Auslesen. 

They were massively fruity and densely packed, but without the slightest 

hint of the inelegant heaviness or unclean bitterness that can come with 

mishandled botrytis. 

Also at Dr. Loosen, I tasted a few wines from Ernie’s J.L. Wolf estate 

in the Pfalz. They were lucky down south and got the entire crop in before 

it started raining, so must weights were very good. Nothing was harvested 

below 90° Oechsle, which is nearly Auslese level in the Pfalz. The wines 

Chatting with the welcoming and warmly 

hospitable Bernhard Breuer, our host for a 

delightful evening of food, wines and wine 

conversation. 

Ernie Loosen and his superb lineup of ’99s. 


© May/June 2000


have astonishing weight and structure, yet retain 

marvelous elegance. The top-growth Jesuitengarten, a 

dry wine made from Auslese fruit, had immense, 

minerally fruit and acidity that swelled on the palate, 

setting your mouth aglow. 

Across the river, Dr. Manfred Prüm seemed to be 

especially proud of the ’99 vintage at Joh. Jos. Prüm. 

Perhaps that is why he decided to break from tradition 

and show the new wines – quite enthusiastically, too. 

Rumors of overproduction persist, but Manfred insists 

that 1999 saw a “normal yield.” Crop levels were definitely 

higher than in the past several years, but historically, 

they were about average. 

The aristocratic Dr. Manfred Prüm sips one of his aristocratic 

At this early stage, the wines from Graacher Rieslings from the top-class Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard. 

Himmelreich (Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese) were the 

more complete wines, with very forward fruit and tongue-thrilling 

vibrancy. The wines from Wehlener Sonnenuhr were dominated by 

flavors of freshly crushed grapes and fermentation aromas. As usual, you 

can expect these wines to develop quite slowly, so it’s a little early to be 

rendering judgement. But the Wehleners are concentrated and ripe, the 

elegant JJ structure is just buried under what Johannes Selbach refers to 

as “baby fat.” Ultimately, the ’99s should surpass the ’98s. 

In the Ruwer Valley, the von Schubert–Grünhaus estate has seen 

no reason to get embroiled in the politics of the VDP, so they do not attend 

the VDP-sponsored Mainzer Weinbörse. Dr. Carl von Schubert, another of 

the great gentlemen estate owners of Germany, echoes the concerns of 

many who feel it’s just too early to show the wines. “I want to show you my 

One wine that serious 

babies when they are smiling,” he says. Still, he is happy to show the 

collectors will want to watch 

wines, hoping that as experienced tasters, we will perceive the potential in 

these squalling infants. 

for is von Schubert’s Abtsberg 

Most of the wines had just been sulfured, so that’s what you get out of Auslese #165. 

the nose. Like a newborn discovering the world, you just have to put these 

things right in your mouth. That is where the fine, pure fruit and citrusy 

acidic structure reveal themselves. The Abtsberg vineyard had no trouble 

showing its superior breeding and class. One wine that serious collectors 

will want to watch for is the Abtsberg Auslese #165, a seriously elegant 

botrytis Auslese that adds juicy peach and pear flavors to the citrus base 

of the lower-Prädikat wines. 

Finally, I made a quick stop in the Saar to see Hanno Zilliken, who 

took a few minutes away from his work in the vineyards to pour five of the 

seven Auslese he made in 1999. These are some of the most complete and 

ready-to-drink ’99s anywhere in Germany. The Saarburger Rausch 

Auslese #6 had huge peach and apricot fruit on a massive frame, whereas 

the Auslese #4 from the same vineyard was finer, more elegant and 

extraordinarily complex. A rarity for your Christmas list will be the 1999 

Saarburger Rausch Long Gold Capsule Auslese, which will be sold at the 

VDP auction in Trier this fall (see story on page 33). 


© May/June 2000

ON THE COVER by Kirk Wille 

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

Germany’s finest Riesling region 

FOR MUCH OF THE PREVIOUS 

century, if you asked the average 

wine lover on the street what was 

Germany’s best region, the answer 

would have been a programmed, 

pre-recorded, “Are you daft? It’s 

Rheingau, of course.” While it’s 

true that Rheingau remains probably 

the most famous viticultural 

area in Germany, it has long since 

been eclipsed in quality by the 

hard-working, determined upstarts 

in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. 

That’s not to say that Rheingau 

doesn’t have great vineyards or 

doesn’t still produce some great 

wines. It’s just a matter of historical 

cycles. As the generations passed, 

an apparently unavoidable complacency 

set in and many of the great estates of Rheingau let their quality 

slip. Ambitious Moselites were all too eager to fill the gap and have done 

so with astonishing success. We can only hope that they will find some 

magical elixir to ward off the curse of complacency. 

I daresay they already have. It’s called Mosel Riesling – some of the 

most lively, vivacious and delicious juice you will ever sip. Top wines from 

top Mosel estates are among the most prized vinous treasures to be found, 

often fetching auction prices that far surpass those of the most celebrated 

wines of France or California. Fortunately for the non-software-moguls 

among us, Riesling has the ability to be vinified in a dazzling range of 

styles and ripeness levels. That means even the best producers can offer 

affordable, top-quality wines that still transmit the essential characteristics 

of the vineyard site and the winemaker’s personality. 

What makes them so good? 

Rieslings from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer have a style that’s truly unique. 

They combine highly extracted, aromatic fruitiness with a sleek, racy and 

elegant structure that is wrapped together in a refreshing, low-alcohol 

package. Mesmerizing to smell, ethereal and evocative to taste, these are 

wines you won’t want to put down. They draw you in with their captivating 

fruit and minerals, then snare you with their juicy, gripping acidity. 

How do they do it? It’s much like that old cliché about the three key 

elements to starting a successful business: location, location, location. As 

A spectacular fall view over the village of 

Bernkastel, where the longest continuous 

stretch of vineyards in Europe begins. 

“Mosel Kabinett at its best 

is unique, and one of the 

glories of the world of wine.” 

Ian Jameson, MW 

The Oxford Companion to Wine 


© May/June 2000

ON THE COVER | Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

the Mosel (MO-z’l) meanders from Trier to its confluence 

with the Rhine at Koblenz, taking 250 kilometers 

of river to traverse half that distance as the crow flies, 

each of its oxbow bends creates a new opportunity for 

vines. The top vineyards of the region ping-pong back 

and forth across the river, clinging to every little southfacing 

slope that has been cut over the millennia. 

It is on the steep, slate-soil vineyard sites with favorable 

southerly exposure that you will find the finest 

Rieslings. The steep walls of the valley protect the vines 

from the chilly winds whistling overhead, and position 

the vines at a more direct angle to the northern sun. 

The slate soil warms quickly and holds heat into the 

night. The nearby river helps moderate the cool evening 

temperatures, as well, and reflects even more sunlight 

onto the vines during the day. All of these things work 

together to produce ripeness levels that would otherwise 

be impossible so far north. 

Still, it’s not just a question of ripeness. If that were the case, there’d be 

an ocean of great Riesling pouring out of hotter regions such as California. 

Making top-class Riesling has as much to do with the journey as with the 

destination. How the grapes got ripe is just as important as the level of 

ripeness achieved. On the Mosel – and in any great Riesling region – the 

ripening period is long and slow, with warm days and cool nights. That 

allows the grapes time to develop a complex array of fruit and mineral 

flavors, while maintaining lively acidity. 

Another significant factor on the Mosel is the frequently occurring 

morning fog that likes to linger in all the nooks and crannies of the valley. 

This moist air facilitates the development of our good old friend, botrytis. 

While the majority of Mosel Rieslings are made at the QbA level for everyday 

consumption, or in the delicate Kabinett style for which the region is 

most renowned, there is no question that the big-time, botrytis-affected 

dessert wines are the jewel in the crown. My only quibble is that the more 

botrytis you have, the less vineyard character you get in the wine. 

M-S-R: Three rivers, one region 

OK, it’s really two and a half, the Ruwer being more a creek than a river. 

The Mosel and its two tributaries each has its own unique, identifiable 

characteristics. Since there’s no point fighting the current, let’s start at the 

headwaters and work our way down. 

The Mosel 

The Mosel River originates in France as the Moselle (mo-ZELL), springing 

from the rain-soaked western slope of the Vosges mountains just opposite 

the southern end of Alsace. That’s why folks living on the Mosel in 

Germany watch the French weather so closely. Heavy rains or snowfall in 

the Vosges portends potentially disastrous flooding downstream – and 

who better to blame it on than the French? 

There are no significant Riesling vineyards on the Moselle. It’s not 

until you’re past the historic city of Trier in Germany that you begin to see 

Steep, south-facing, slate-covered vineyards are the primary factor in 

producing the racy, fruit-driven Rieslings for which the region is best 

known. Here, the Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard of Brauneberg. 

QUALITY LEVELS 

QbA. Basic Riesling, often 

declassified from higher quality 

levels at finer estates. 

Chaptalization is allowed. 

Kabinett. The lightest style, from 

grapes of normal ripeness. Can 

be exceptionally elegant and 

finely structured. 

Spätlese. [SHPAYT-lay-zeh] 

Richer wine made from riper, 

late-harvested grapes. 

Auslese. [OWS-lay-zeh] Very rich, 

full-bodied wines from select, 

late-harvested clusters, sometimes 

with botrytis. 

Beerenauslese/BA. [BEAR’Nows-lay-zeh] 

The first of the 

true dessert wines, made from 

individually selected grapes 

(Beeren) that are fully affected 

by botrytis. 

Eiswein. [ice-wine] Intensely 

racy dessert wine made from 

frozen grapes that achieved the 

same ripeness as BA. 

Trockenbeerenauslese/TBA. 

The king of all dessert wines, 

made from individually selected 

grapes that have been 

completely shriveled by botrytis. 


© May/June 2000


the top-class vineyards of the Middle Mosel. There are some 500 singlevineyard 

names used in the region, of which only about 60 have any real 

significance. Half of those are in the Middle Mosel district, the area from 

below Trier to Traben-Trarbach, called Bereich Bernkastel. These are the 

classic Mosel wines: fruity and elegant with superbly balanced acidity and 

that inimitable mineral quality from the variety of slate soils. 

The Lower Mosel district, Bereich Zell, does have some good vineyards 

and producers. Unfortunately, it is mostly known for the cheap bulk wines 

that flow unabated from the Zeller Schwarze Katz collective vineyard site, 

or grosslage. A few intrepid souls are trying to fight the cheap-and-sweet 

image, but the path is as steep and treacherous as the vineyards themselves. 

One notable exception is in the spectacularly terraced vineyards of 

Winningen, just a few kilometers from the river’s termination at Koblenz. 

A few of the better producers there have taken to calling their area the 

Terrassen Mosel to distance themselves from the name Zell. 

The Saar 

The Saar is really a region of its own, with wines of significantly different 

character. It’s smaller than the Mosel, naturally, but still a real river, flowing 

into the Mosel at Konz, just upstream from Trier. The biggest difference 

is that almost none of the great vineyards are right on the river, as 

they are in the Mosel. Most of them huddle on the steep, south-facing 

slopes of various little side valleys and hills. The soil here tends to be more 

broken up and stonier, giving it somewhat less heat 

retention than on the Mosel. Lastly, being upstream, 

the Saar is a bit higher in elevation, and thus, generally 

cooler. 

You see where this is headed, don’t you? Less 

temperature mitigation from the river, cooler soil, 

cooler average temperature – it all points to a lot of 

worried winemakers wondering from vintage to vintage 

whether their grapes are going to get ripe. In lesser 

years, they often don’t. But in hotter years, such as 

1999, the Saar produces some of the finest, most wellbalanced 

wines of the region. There’s seldom any lack 

of crisp, balancing acidity on the Saar. A typically 

assertive, lime-dominated citrus component is, for me, 

the mark of true Saarness. 

The Ruwer 

The Ruwer (ROO-ver) is a small stream that joins the Mosel a few kilometers 

downstream of Trier. Its position between the Mosel and the Saar is 

reflected in the style of its wines. The situation of the vineyards is much 

the same as on the Saar, but being a little bit lower in elevation and very 

well protected, the vines have a better chance to produce fully ripe fruit. 

Still, with no sizable body of water and no heat-retaining slate cliffs, 

ripeness remains a big concern here. In cooler vintages the wines can be 

just as aggressively acidic as on the Saar, but generally they are a little 

more forgiving. 

Up close and personal with Mosel slate, in 

this case the mineral-rich blue-gray slate of 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr. 

The beautiful and picturesque village of Saarburg, one of the major 

wine towns in the Saar valley. 


© May/June 2000


Top vineyards of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

The matrix of fruit and mineral flavor combinations that are possible in 

this multi-faceted region is truly bewildering. It’s helpful to limit the 

discussion to one vineyard at a time. Of course, choosing a great 

vineyard site is no guarantee that the wine will be great – you still 

need a talented, quality-conscious producer. Let’s start with 

the vineyards first. Then we’ll look at producers. 

The Middle Mosel 

Working downstream, the first great site on the 

Mosel is the spectacularly steep Piesporter 

Goldtröpfchen (GOLD-trupf-shen, “little 

drops of gold”). The charming village of 

Piesport is well-known for the truly 

wretched beverage (I hesitate to call 

it wine) called Piesporter Michelsberg. 

This is probably the most illuminating 

example of political 

chicanery in the German wine law. 

[Warning – rant alert!] 

Piesport has long been known to 

produce glorious Rieslings, so the 

village is justly famous. To tap into 

that fame, the wine law allows any 

producer, regardless of quality, to 

put the village name on the bottle 

as long as the grapes come from the Saarburg 

Michelsberg grosslage. Most of this 

comes from the flat fields inside the 

river bend and in the neighboring 

villages, and much of it is not even Riesling. The disservice here is to the 

dedicated few who make wonderful wines from the labor-intensive slopes 

of Goldtröpfchen and its wholly enclosed sibling, Piesporter Domherr. 

These wines are powerful and rich. Their incredibly weighty structure is 

paired with delicate detail. Reinhold Haart is tops here. 

After a tight hairpin curve, the river turns nearly due 

east at Brauneberg, creating the “brown mountain” on 

the northern bank that gives the village its name. The 

soil is drier here than in most other vineyards, which 

puts the vines under greater stress in dry years, but 

keeps them from overproducing in wet years. The topnotch 

Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr (YEW-fer 

ZON-en-ooer, “spinster’s sundial”) site is the center part 

of the Brauneberg and is epitomized by the intense, 

muscular wines of Fritz Haag. 

As the river winds back toward the north, we come 

to the important town of Bernkastel, in the very heart of 

the Middle Mosel. Here you will find the legendary 

Bernkasteler Doctor (sometimes spelled Bern- 

GERMANY 

LUXEMBOURG 

Saar 

Trier 

Mosel 


© May/June 2000 

Ruwer 

Maximin 

Grünhaus 

Scharzhofberg 

Karthäuserhofberg 

Cochem 


Ürziger 

Würzgarten 

Zell 

Erdener Prälat 

Wehlener 

Erdener Treppchen 

Sonnenuhr 

Piesporter 

Goldtröpfchen 

Bernkasteler Doctor 

Bernkastel 

& Domherr 

Brauneberger 

Juffer-Sonnenuhr 

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

Winninger 

Uhlen 

N 

← Bonn 

Koblenz 

The startlingly steep vineyards formed by the tight bend in the 

Mosel River at Piesport. 

Rhine 

Rheingau →


casteler) vineyard, so named in the 

14th century when a visiting archbishop 

was supposedly cured of an 

illness by drinking the wine. True 

or not, it’s a great story. Unfortunately, 

the wines are not so restorative 

these days. 

The Dr. Thanisch estate that 

brought the vineyard to worldwide 

fame earlier this century has been 

split into two estates of less than 

stellar quality, although they are 

showing signs of improvement. The 

first, Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch-Erben 

Thanisch (Thanisch family heirs) 

estate is a member of the VDP and 

is usually rated higher than Wwe. 

Dr. H. Thanisch Müller-Burggraef. 

In tasting the ’98s, however, I found the Müller-Burggraef wines to be 

riper, better made and more interesting to drink. The labels are nearly 

indistinguishable from each other, except that you will find the Müller- 

Burggraef name quite large at the top of their label. 

Bending now to the west and revealing a wall of gray slate, we enter the 

longest continuous stretch of top-quality vineyards in Europe. The eight 

kilometers from Bernkastel to Zeltingen is an impressive sight to behold. 

It really makes you stop and ponder the countless hours of backbreaking 

toil required to plant and maintain these precipitous vineyards, just so we 

can have a little bit of pleasure in our lives. To see it is to think twice about 

tossing off capricious criticisms like, “Gee, I like it, but it goes a little too 

much toward pineapple, don’t you think?” 

Just past the village of Graach (no Klingons there, as far as I know) 

begins what is probably the current most famous vineyard on the Mosel, 

at least among true Riesling fanatics. I’m talking, of course, about the 

noble Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Because of the predominance of slate, 

this vineyard sets the upper end of the elegance spectrum on the Mosel. 

And it’s not just because of the elegant and sophisticated style of Joh. Jos. 

Prüm. The vineyard’s class shows through no matter who’s making the 

wine. Even with the heavy-hitting, highly extracted wines of Dr. Loosen or 

Willi Schaefer, you will have no trouble picking Wehlen out of a lineup of 

their single-vineyard wines. The wines are typified by supremely refined 

raciness, fine-boned structure and tantalizing, lemony acidity. 

Off we go again on another complete fold in the river, reaching the 

dramatic, blazing red eastward bend at Ürzig. A swath of red volcanic soil 

was unearthed here on the sheer northern bank, bringing to being the 

exciting, singular wines of Ürziger Würzgarten (VERTS-garten, “spice 

garden of Ürzig”). As the name implies, the wines are spicy and vibrant 

with an unbelievable range of berry, citrus and tropical fruit aromas. Joh. 

Jos. Christoffel makes perhaps the most vivacious wines here, while those 

of Dr. Loosen display that estate’s characteristic depth and power. 

The sundial of Wehlen. 

LEVELS OF SWEETNESS 

One of the most remarkable 

things about Riesling is its ability 

to be made in a variety of styles. 

Trocken. Literally means dry. A 

wine must have fewer than nine 

grams per liter of residual sugar 

to be labeled trocken. There are 

very few wines from the Mosel- 

Saar-Ruwer that benefit from 

being vinified dry. 

Halbtrocken. Half dry. Same as 

semi-dry, half-dry, etc. Residual 

sugar must be between nine 

and 18 grams per liter. A more 

successful style in this region. A 

little sweetness really brings the 

delicious fruit flavors to life. 

Lieblich or Mild. [LEEB-lish, milt] 

Traditional terms for the classic 

style of Mosel Riesling with 

more than 18 grams residual 

sugar. Though noticably sweeter 

than trocken, a well-made wine 

will have sweetness that is 

perfectly in balance with its 

crisp acidity. 

Fruity. The international term 

used by modern winemakers to 

describe the traditional lieblich 

style. 


© May/June 2000


If you want to talk about power, 

though, you’ve got to move on to a 

little slice of perfection right on the 

river next to Ürziger Würzgarten, 

the 1.5 hectare Erdener Prälat 

(PRAY-laht, “prelate of Erden”). To 

the exposure triple-play of angle, 

river and weathered red slate is 

added a fourth element: huge slate 

cliffs that surround the vineyard 

creating a massive heat-sink. Full 

ripeness is virtually assured in all 

but the poorest years, and the 

Prälat’s greatest proponent, Dr. 

Loosen, almost never harvests 

anything less than Auslese here. Another spectacular bend in the river at Ürzig is made even more dramatic by the blazing 

These are the most powerful and red soil of Ürziger Würzgarten and the majestic cliffs above Erdener Prälat. The Erdener 

Treppchen vineyard, which is currently being reorganized, is at the far right, beyond the cliffs. 

noble Rieslings on the Mosel, 

combining massive mineral structure 

with deep, resonant fruit – peachy and multi-layered when young, 

turning complex and harmonious with age. 

Continuing downstream is the last great vineyard of the Middle Mosel, “My stranded-on-a-desert- 

Erdener Treppchen (TREP-shen, “little staircase”). Pure red slate gives island wine would have to be 

the wines an intense minerality to match their solid, hard-body structure. Erdener Treppchen Kabinett. 

Here again, Dr. Loosen makes the best. Ernst Loosen is fond of comparing 

the “rock climber” style of Erdener Treppchen to the lissome, pretty 

“ballerina” of Wehlener Sonnenuhr. I’m no rock climber, but my 

stranded-on-a-desert-island wine would have to be Erdener Treppchen 

Kabinett. It has the complexity to keep you interested in perpetuity, plus 

it is so clean and refreshing that you would never tire of drinking it. 

The Lower Mosel 

After Erden, there are no “grand cru” vineyards until you reach the 

Terrassen Mosel near the end of the river, at Winningen. There are a few 

sites with good potential, such as the famously steep Bremmer Calmont 

vineyard, but no one seems willing to spend the time, energy and vast 

amounts of cash necessary to make great wine there (although I have 

tasted one or two good wines from Reinhold Franzen). The top estates of 

the Middle Mosel are so well established that Lower Mosel folks would 

have a tough time cracking the market. Perhaps that will change as the 

fanatic-fueled Riesling renaissance progresses. 

In Winningen, however, one hardy soul is striving to produce wines of 

world-class quality, and now others are following his lead. The estate is 

Heymann-Löwenstein, which is making incredibly intense dry Rieslings 

from two insanely steep, terraced vineyards: Winninger Röttgen and, even 

better, Winninger Uhlen. With higher average ripeness (and thus 

higher potential alcohol) and a less overtly fruity character than in the 

Middle Mosel, Reinhard Löwenstein decided that his wines were better 

suited to a more Alsatian style of dry Riesling. And they are stunning. 

On the Lower Mosel, Winninger Uhlen is 

the finest of the terraced vineyards that 

comprise the Terrassen Mosel. 


© May/June 2000


The Saar 

On the Saar there are several notable vineyards of 

exceptional quality, including Serriger Schloss 

Saarstein, Saarburger Rausch, Ockfener Bockstein and 

Ayler Kupp. But there is really only one first-rank vineyard: 

the celebrated Scharzhofberg. At the base of 

this impressive mountain of vines is the even more 

celebrated Scharzhof estate of Egon Müller, which 

makes the greatest wines here. 

The standard rap against Müller’s wines is that 

while the higher-Prädikat wines are peerless, the lower 

wines suffer from inattention. In some years, such as The storied Scharzhof estate of Egon Müller is situated at the base 

1998, this certainly appears to be the case. The ’98 QbA 

and Kabinett are hard as nails and not at all fun to 

of the ultra-top-class Scharzhofberg vineyard. 

drink. In years like 1994, however, the Kabinett turned out beautifully rich 

and juicy. So quality seems to be more a function of vintage for the lower 

wines. It’s Müller’s botrytis wines that shine from year to year – the only 

question being how brightly they will shine in a particular vintage. 

That question is usually settled at auction time when VDP estates bring 

a few special wines to a collectors’ auction in Trier (see our auction story 

on page 33). At the 1998 auction, a mere three cases of Egon Müller’s 1990 

Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese were sold for a record 

4,700 DM per bottle – about $2,800 U.S. at the time! 

The Ruwer 

There are two great hillside vineyards in the tiny Ruwer 

valley, just a kilometer apart on either side of the river, 

both facing southeast. South of the river is the Grünhaus 

estate, which is owned by the von Schubert family. 

This first-class estate (see our estate review on page 26) 

is sole owner of the three Maximin Grünhaus vineyards: 

Bruderberg, Herrenberg and Abtsberg. Of the 

three, Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg (GROONhoyser 

APTS-berg, “abbot’s mountain at the green 

house of St. Maximin”) is clearly superior. Although 

Herrenberg can approach it in certain years, a vintage 

like 1998 really illustrates the inherently finer quality of 

Abtsberg. The Herrenberg wines are finely made, pretty 

The Karthäuserhofberg vineyard rises proudly above the village of 

and delicious to drink, but they lack the intensity, 

Eitelsbach in the Ruwer valley. 

sophistication and relentless grip of Abtsberg. 

The other outstanding Ruwer vineyard is another Teutonic mouthful, 

Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg (EYE-tels-bahk-er cart-HOY-serhof-bearg, 

“mountain of the Carthusian monastery at Eitelsbach”). The 

vineyard itself is very similar to Abtsberg, but the wines are quite different 

in style. That’s due to the personality and winemaking style of 

Christoph Tyrell, owner of the Karthäuserhof estate and its monopole 

vineyard. The wines have exceptionally vivid fruit aromas that are tightly 

woven in a steely frame of electrifying acidity. 


© May/June 2000


The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer’s 

finest estates 

THE ENTIRE MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER REGION is home to some 12,000 

hectares of vines and well over 10,000 individual growers. Most of the 

growers sell their crops to the local cooperative or to merchants who blend 

the wines together and sell them under their own names. Riesling 

accounts for just over half of the vines, and estate wines amount to only 

one-third of annual production, but the top estates are almost entirely 

focused on Riesling. These are the shining lights that will guide your journey 

along the perplexing peregrinations of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. 

The top ten 

These are the absolute best of the best and can always be counted on to 

produce striking wines that are very expressive of vineyard and winemaker. 

That, after all, is Mosel Riesling’s greatest single attribute. 

Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel (Mosel) 

This miniscule 2.2-hectare estate in Ürzig just happens to produce some 

of the most vibrant, exciting Rieslings on the Mosel. 

Top sites: Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Treppchen 

Weingut Fritz Haag (Mosel) 

Wilhelm Haag makes intense Rieslings of crystalline purity. Their nearly 

colorless appearance belies their penetrating fruit and muscular grip. 

Top site: Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr 

Other good site: Brauneberger Juffer, all of which is used in the delicious 

estate Riesling, one of the great bargains on the Mosel 

Weingut Reinhold Haart (Mosel) 

Piesport’s greatest quality proponent, Theo Haart makes glorious Rieslings 

that are big and delicate, massive and fine, full of power and grace. 

Top sites: Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Piesporter Domherr 

Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein (Mosel) 

Most of the time we wonder why anyone on the Mosel would bother 

making dry Riesling when all it seems to do is strip out the fruit and make 

a sharp, sour wine. Reinhard Löwenstein shows us why: Given the right 

conditions, world-class dry Riesling is possible here. 

Top sites: Winninger Uhlen, Winninger Röttgen 

Weingut Karthäuserhof (Ruwer) 

This first-rate monopole vineyard produces vivid, long-lived Rieslings. 

Top site: Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg (wholly owned) 

Weingut Dr. Loosen (Mosel) 

Please see our review of this estate in the March/April 2000 issue. 

Top sites: Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten, 

Erdener Treppchen, Erdener Prälat 

Other good sites: Bernkasteler Lay, Graacher Himmelreich 

The Delicious 

Dozen 

Top M-S-R vineyards 


Piesporter Goldtröpfchen & 

Piesporter Domherr 

Top producer: Reinhold Haart 

Good producers: Kesselstatt, 

Lehnert-Weit 

Brauneberger Juffer- 

Sonnenuhr 

Top producer: Fritz Haag 

Good producers: 

Max. Ferd. Richter 

Bernkasteler Doctor 

Top producer: Wwe. Dr. H. 

Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 

Good producers: 

Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Müller- 

Burggraef, Wegeler 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr 

Top producers: Joh. Jos. Prüm, 

Dr. Loosen 

Good producers: Willi Schaefer, 

Heribert Kerpen, S.A. Prüm, 

Selbach-Oster 

Ürziger Würzgarten 

Top producers: 

Joh. Jos. Christoffel, Dr. Loosen 

Erdener Prälat 

Top producer: Dr. Loosen 

Erdener Treppchen 

Top producers: Dr. Loosen, 

Joh. Jos. Christoffel 

Winninger Uhlen 

Top producer: 

Heymann-Löwenstein 


Scharzhofberger 

Top producer: Egon Müller 

Good producers: von Hövel, 

Kesselstatt 


Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg 

Top producer: von Schubert 

Eitelsbacher 

Karthäuserhofberg 

Top producer: Karthäuserhof 


© May/June 2000


Weingut Egon Müller (Saar) 

The magnificent dessert wines from this well-known estate have no peer 

in the wine world. 

Top site: Scharzhofberger 

Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm (Mosel) 

Please see our estate review on page 19 of this issue. 

Top site: Wehlener Sonnenuhr 

Other good sites: Graacher Himmelreich, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 

Weingut Willi Schaefer (Mosel) 

This is another ridiculously tiny estate (2.6 hectares) that makes impossibly 

huge Rieslings. We absolutely worship this guy. If you look up the 

word “stunning” in the dictionary, you’ll see a Willi Schaefer Riesling 

label. The wines are hard to find, but worth the search. 

Top sites: Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, 


Gutsverwaltung von Schubert – Grünhaus (Ruwer) 

Please see our estate review on page 26 of this issue. 

Top site: Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg 

Other good sites: Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg and Bruderberg 

The best of the rest 

These estates are also producing exceptional wines, very often rivaling the 

quality of the top 10 named above. Since they are not as famous, their 

wines can be quite good values. 

Weingut Le Gallais (Saar) 

These superb wines are made by Egon Müller. 

Top site: Wiltinger Braune Kupp 

Weingut von Hövel (Saar) 

This less well-known estate is a very reliable producer of delicate wines 

that are well-balanced and elegant. 

Top sites: Oberemmeler Hütte (wholly owned), Scharzhofberger 

Weingut Karlsmühle (Ruwer) 

This is a good and steadily improving estate with good vineyards in Kasel. 

Top sites: Kaseler Nies’chen, Kaseler Kehrnagel, 

Lorenzhöfer Felslay, Lorenzhöfer Mäuerchen 

Weingut Kees-Kieren (Mosel) 

One of our favorite hidden treasures, Kees-Kieren is an old estate that is 

reaching new heights with its clean, delicious, prize-winning wines. 

Top sites: Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst 

Weingut Heribert Kerpen (Mosel) 

Okay, so we have several favorite hidden treasures. The wines here are 

elegant and seductively fruity. 

Top sites: Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, 

Graacher Domprobst 

Runners-Up 

Other excellent 

M-S-R vineyards 


Trittenheimer Apotheke 

Top producers: Grans-Fassian, 

Ernst Clüsserath 

Brauneberger Juffer 

Top producer: Max. Ferd. Richter 

Lieser Niederberg Helden 

Top producer: Schloss Lieser 

Graacher Himmelreich 

Top producers: Joh. Jos. Prüm, 

Dr. Loosen, Kees-Kieren, 

Willi Schaefer 


Top producers: Willi Schaefer, 

Kees-Kieren, Selbach-Oster 

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 

Top producers: Selbach-Oster, 

Markus Molitor 

Bremmer Calmont 

Top producer: Reinhold Franzen 

Winninger Röttgen 

Top producer: 

Heymann-Löwenstein 


Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner 

Top producer: Schloss Saarstein 

(wholly owned) 

Saarburger Rausch 

Top producer: Zilliken 

Ockfener Bockstein 

Top producer: Dr. Wagner 

Ayler Kupp 

Top producer: Dr. Wagner, 

Johann Peter Reinert 

Wiltinger Braune Kupp 

Top producer: Le Gallais 

Oberemmeler Hütte 

Top producer: von Hövel 


Kaseler Nies’chen 

Top producers: Karlsmühle, 

Kesselstatt 


© May/June 2000


Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt (Mosel, Saar & Ruwer) 

This producer is large by Mosel standards, with nearly 60 hectares of vines. 

The wines can be variable, but generally the quality standard is high. 

Top sites: Josephshöfer (wholly owned), Wehlener Sonnenuhr, 

Berncasteler Doctor, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, 

Piesporter Domherr, Scharzhofberger, Kaseler Nies’chen 

Weingut Schloss Lieser (Mosel) 

Thomas Haag’s brilliant wines just keep getting better. 

Top site: Lieser Niederberg Helden 

Weingut Molitor (Mosel) 

Re-energized by Markus Molitor, the Haus Klosterberg estate is a rapidly 

rising star on the Mosel horizon. 

Top sites: Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Schloßberg, 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst 

Weingut S.A. Prüm (Mosel) 

Affable, cheerful Raimund Prüm is working hard to improve quality and 

re-establish his estate in the world market. This is an estate to watch. 

Top sites: Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, 


Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter (Mosel) 

This good estate gets lost a bit in the shadow of Brauneberg’s great Fritz 

Haag, but it produces well-made wines. 

Top sites: Brauneberger Juffer, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr 

Weingut Schloss Saarstein (Saar) 

If you’re an acid head (perhaps I should say ‘acidity’ head), this is the 

estate for you. From far upstream on the Saar, Christian Ebert produces 

gripping wines with electrifyingly crunchy acidity. 

Top site: Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner (wholly owned) 

Weingut Selbach-Oster (Mosel) 

The tireless Johannes Selbach produces elegant, aristocratic wines . It was 

a tasting in his cellar that turned me on to the sophistication of Zeltinger 

Sonnenuhr, and power and glory of Graacher Domprobst. 

Top sites: Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Schloßberg, 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst 

Weingut Hans Wagner (Saar) 

These succulent, fruity wines are produced by a winemaker with a kind 

spirit and a gentle soul. They’re the best you will find from the well-known 

Ockfener Bockstein vineyard. 

Top sites: Ockfener Bockstein, Saarburger Rausch, Ayler Kupp 

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz – Zilliken (Saar) 

Please see the review of this estate on page 23 of this issue. 

Top sites: Saarburger Rausch and Ockfener Bockstein 

The sundial in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 

vineyard, which is very nearly the equal of 

its more famous upstream neighbor, 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The two vineyards 

are directly adjacent to one another. 

MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER 

FACTS AND FIGURES 

Vineyards 

Fourth largest German region 

12,000 hectares/30,000 acres 

88 million vines 

Half on slopes of 15° or more 

Elevation 100–285 meters 

Districts (Bereiche) 

Bereich Zell 

Bereich Bernkastel 

Bereich Saar/Ruwer 

Bereich Obermosel 

Bereich Moseltor 

Major varieties 

Riesling 54% 

Müller-Thurgau 21% 

Elbling 9% 

Information sources 

www.germanwineusa.org 

www.msr-wein.de (in German) 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | MOSEL 

Joh. Jos. Prüm 

THE DISTINGUISHED JOH. JOS. PRÜM is one of the 

best-known estates in Germany. For many collectors, 

the wines represent the apotheosis of Mosel Riesling, 

and Prüm’s top cuvées are among the rarest and most 

expensive young wines in the world. 

While the Prüm family has been involved in wine 

production since the 17th century, the modern estate of 

Joh. Jos. Prüm came into existence in 1911, when 

Johann Josef Prüm inherited his share of the vineyard 

holdings built up by his grandfather, Sebastian Alois 

Prüm. In the following years Johann Josef’s son, also 

named Sebastian, became instrumental in fashioning 

the style of the house. A strict adherence to quality built 

a strong reputation and a loyal following, and soon the 

wines were fetching record prices at the auctions in 

Trier. Since 1969 the estate has been in the hands of 

Sebastian’s son, Dr. Manfred Prüm, who continues to 

produce long-lived, scintillatingly focused wines that 

are considered classics of the region. 

The Prüm style is one of tremendous clarity and finesse, prizing 

elegance above all things. As my cohort, Kirk, puts it, “The Prüm style is 

driven by Manfred’s aesthetic sense.” The wines are famous for their 

longevity, and can often be forbidding and unapproachable in their youth, 

as they are designed for a long, slow development. 

Some trocken wines are made, of course, but rarely seen outside of 

Germany. “They have their value,” says Dr. Prüm, in his discreetly diplomatic 

way, “but for us it’s not something we promote. Dry Mosel wines are 

much less accessible than fruity wines.” A QbA is bottled under the label 

Dr. M. Prüm. 

But above all, Joh. Jos. Prüm is renowned for its aristocratic wines 

from the great Sonnenuhr vineyard in Wehlen. For many people, the two 

are inextricably linked. Hauntingly perfumed, as if they were the distilled 

essence of slate, these wines have a hallmark purity and a fine, filigree 

tone, unhurriedly developing typical Sonnenuhr aromas of orange and 

flower-blossom. The other major vineyard holding is in Graacher 

Himmelreich, which Dr. Prüm describes as also very minerally, but not 

quite as defined as Sonnenuhr. The wines can be equally long-lived. There 

are also holdings in Zeltinger Sonnenuhr and Bernkasteler Badstube. 

Prüm has a long history of small-production, individual cask selections, 

bottled in the past under names such as Feine Auslese, Feinste 

Auslese, or Hochfeine Auslese, but now designated as Gold Cap or Long 

Gold Cap Auslese. Beerenauslese was first made in 1934, Trockenbeerenauslese 

in 1937, and Eiswein in 1949. 

by Peter Liem 

The stately Joh. Jos. Prüm estate house, built from Mosel slate, 

presides over the Mosel region from the river’s edge in Wehlen. 

J.J. Prüm’s top vineyard is the famously 

steep and slaty Wehlener Sonnenuhr. 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Joh. Jos. Prüm 

Peter’s tasting notes 

It is customary for young Prüm wines to be backwards and tightly closed, 

showing little besides a yeasty, spritzy youthfulness. The 1998s seem to be 

even more reticent than the wines from previous vintages, even from 

high-acid years like 1996 or 1994. The components seem to be there, but 

they are tightly-wound youngsters that will need a lot of time to reveal 

what they have in store. Like the 1998s from Fritz Haag or Helmut 

Dönnhoff, these wines are quieter in profile and lighter in body than the 

richly fruity 1997s or the powerfully insistent 1996s. 

The two auction wines are fine successors in the long and distinguished 

lineage of this estate. 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1998 - $24 

AP 4. Lively and fragrant apple, lime and red plum aromas, with a tangerine-like 

citrus. Bright and well-balanced. Ripely juicy in the mouth. Sleekly floral, 

mandarin orange fruitiness, finishing with a discreetly delicate profile. This has 

less presence in the middle than expected, but appears to have all the components 

to develop well. 89 (+?) 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $36 

AP 6. A step up in weight from the Kabinett, with a slightly desiccated tone to the 

fruit. Smells of orange and apricot peels. Nicely built, with an almost earthy slatiness, 

but this doesn’t seem quite as sleekly racy as Prüm wines usually are. 

Elegantly balanced on the palate, ripe and well-bred, finishing with a subtle core 

of fruit and discreet, quiet length. 90 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1998 - $42 

AP 7. High-toned nose, dusty tangerine, pear and black currant aromas and a 

smoky, unusually spicy slatiness. Somewhat lighter in depth than expected. Ripe 

pear flavors predominate on the palate more than the customary citrus. Highpitched 

in tone and playfully floral, with a surprisingly round and approachable 

build. Finishes with softly balanced acidity and good length. 90 (+?) 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule 1998 (auction) 

$75 (375 ml) 

AP 10. This does not have an appreciable increase in intensity over Prüm’s #7 

Auslese, but it does have more dimension and a tighter grain. Appley, apricotty 

aromas. Very discreet and suave. Beautifully classic sense of site in the mouth, 

with an ethereally floral, tangerine-like fragrance. High-pitched finish, long and 

nicely perfumed, not deeply concentrated in weight, but delicately intense and 

very fine in tone. 92 

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule 1998 (auction) - $225 

AP 11. Thickly intense, glossy nose – richly ripe mandarin orange and tropical 

fruits, showing more intensity and completeness than the #10 Gold Capsule. 

Honeyed, decadent richness on the palate, velvety in texture and ripely, lushly 

tropical. Builds to a sharply focused intensity on the back end, with firmly 

supporting acidity and screaming of breed. This is classic Prüm, with an intensity 

above and beyond the other wines in this lineup. 94 

Dr. Manfred Prüm stands beside a portrait 

his famed grandfather and namesake of 

the estate, Johann Josef Prüm – or, as he 

is lovingly referred to by Riesling fanatics 

everywhere, simply J.J. 


© May/June 2000


A Tasting of Joh. Jos. Prüm 

Gold Capsule Auslese 

THERE ARE FEW WINES IN THE WORLD AS ARISTOCRATIC as Joh. 

Jos. Prüm’s Gold Capsule Auslese. A special selection of Auslese, it was in 

the past bottled as ‘Feinste Auslese’ or ‘Hochfeine Auslese,’ until the wine 

laws of 1971 prohibited such terminology. However, the wines continue to 

be made, now designated by a golden, capsule with one thin white stripe 

designating Gold Capsule Auslese, and two white stripes indicating the 

top-of-the-line Long Gold Capsule Auslese. 

No effort is spared in Prüm’s quest for quality. Successive passes are 

made through the vineyards to collect the perfect fruit, often at Beerenauslese-level 

must-weights. Each day’s picking is sorted and separated, 

then similar batches are blended together to finish their fermentation 

before the final selection in the summer. The style of the wines is very pure 

and very much allied to the philosophy of the house. Dr. Prüm is firmly 

against “thick” wines for the Gold Capsule Auslese, saying that it’s “not a 

good idea for the Mosel.” They are rarely the biggest Auslese, but have a 

very focused intensity, achieved without excess weight – they are to be 

full-bodied, but Prüm’s hallmark elegance and graceful balance must be 

retained. Beauty such as this is rare indeed. 

The following wines were tasted in Portland in November of 1999. 

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Capsule 1982 

AP 28. Glorious color, medium greenish-gold, amazingly star-bright, still retaining 

a slight gas. Apricot, tangerine, orange peel, wet stone, slate on the nose. 

Perfectly balanced botrytis in a very subtle, supporting role, with beautiful delicacy. 

Lovely expansion in the mouth, but retains a delicately aromatic tone, 

perfumed and floral, but very intense, again with just a touch of supporting botrytis. 

Finishes with a little less length than expected, but with a tight core of juicy 

depth. Very clean and refreshing. 92 


AP 6.85. Slightly deeper in color than 

the 1982, still a greenish-gold, with, 

again, a spritzy gas present. The opposite 

side of Prüm’s Sonnenuhr here: 

richly textured in the nose, powerful 

and intense, as opposed to the ethereal 

delicacy of the 1982. Apricotty, orange 

fruit is quite primary, but is subdued by 

all sorts of tertiary things going on – 

slate, wet cement, a slight earthiness. 

Beautifully built. Pungent attack on the 

palate, punching intensity, with a 

smooth depth and silky richness. 

Terroir really screams here, orange 

floralness and slaty perfume, with a taut vibrancy. Gripping on back end, aristocratically 

refined and incredibly sleek, carries its weight superbly. Long, intense 

finish, very floral, very perfumed. Superb. 95 


© May/June 2000



AP 1.87. Deeper color than the previous two, medium-gold with just a very slight 

green. Very odd nose, a nearly Sauvignon Blanc-like herbalness, with an aroma 

not unlike charcoal. Sharp, disjointed, blocky. Big in the mouth, but blurry and 

with the same herbaceousness, lacks grace and harmony. Good length on finish, 

but a bit foursquare, with oddly disjointed botrytis. This may be a bad bottle. 80 


AP 17. Deepening greenish-gold, with a very slight gas. Noticeably deeper color 

than the previous three wines. Weighty nose, nicely built, with pear, apple, apricots. 

The botrytis is much more pronounced and obvious here than on the previous 

three wines. Brightly fresh on the attack, returning to an orange, tangerine 

rind, strawberry candy, and both fresh and dried apricot complexity, still in a very 

burly profile. Nice richness and depth, but drops off quite sharply on the finish, 

leaving a somewhat hollow impression. This has breed befitting Prüm, but 

compared to its family members, it lacks the length and dimension to be great. 89 


AP 25. Deepest color so far, greenish-gold. A little shut down on the nose, with 

buttery petrol and a pronounced botrytis. Combines power with grace, a sense of 

immense structure but also tremendous breed. Richly intense and powerful in the 

mouth, but still amazingly sleek and perfectly balanced. Mandarin orange, peach, 

peach skins, fresh apricots. Ripeness and sheer depth of fruit subdue considerable 

botrytis, setting it in the background. Finishes fine, long, intense, with a ray of 

inner brilliance that grows with searing intensity. This has years to go, but it will 

be amazing. 96 (+?) 


AP 31. Extremely perfumed, floral and unusually tropical, reminiscent of Christoffel’s 

Ürziger Würzgarten or Loosen’s Erdener Prälat. Banana, apricot, orange blossom, 

peach. Very intense, very, very floral and aromatic in the mouth, with the 

vibrant delicacy of the 1982. Tremendous length and finesse on the finish, with 

intense presence but a beautifully balanced delicacy. Gorgeous. 94 


(VDP Auction bottling) 

AP 29. The nose is again very tropical and opulent, but this time it’s paired with 

lush botrytis. Well-balanced structure, with a hint of minerally slatiness underneath 

all the puppy fat. Very subtle and intense. Almost painfully rich in the 

mouth, bigger yet seems even a touch better balanced than the AP 31. Very tactile 

on the back end, with almost grainy texture. Finishes sticky, dense, and very long, 

but it’s carried superbly, with hallmark Prüm grace. 94 (+?) 

THE J.J. PRÜM ESTATE 

Total vineyard area 

14 hectares/35 acres 

Annual production 

120,000 bottles 

Varieties 


Top vineyards 


Graacher Himmelreich 

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 

Bernkasteler Badstube 

Contact Information 

Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm 

Uferallee 19 

54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen 

Phone: (+49) 6531-3091 

Fax: (+49) 6531-6071 

The Prüm estate does not have 

the facilities to accommodate 

tourists, but visits to the estate 

are possible for serious wine 

enthusiasts. Just be sure to 

make arrangements in advance. 

Dr. Manfred Prüm and his 

daughters all speak English 

quite well. 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | SAAR by Peter Liem 

Forstmeister Geltz – Zilliken 

UNDOUBTEDLY ONE OF THE GREAT ESTATES 

of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Zilliken is well-known 

and loved by devoted aficionados of German 

Riesling, but is little-recognized outside of this 

circle. Nevertheless, the current proprietor, Hans- 

Joachim (Hanno) Zilliken, is quietly fashioning 

some of the world’s greatest Rieslings, which are 

eagerly snapped up by collectors worldwide. 

The Zilliken family has been producing wine in the Saar since the 18th 

century. The name Forstmeister Geltz refers to Hanno Zilliken’s greatgrandfather, 

the Royal Prussian master forester Ferdinand Geltz, who was 

instrumental in establishing the estate’s reputation for high quality. Ferdinand 

was also one of the founding members of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

‘Grosser Ring’ (see our auction story on page 33). 

The main holdings of the 10-hectare estate are in the great vineyard of 

Saarburger Rausch. Here, the fully southern exposure allows for excellent 

ripening to balance the intrinsically high acidities of the Saar Valley, 

making it possible to produce finely textured, delicately filigreed wines of 

great class. In warm-weather years such as 1997 or 1999, it is this high 

degree of acidity that allows the wines to achieve a balance that other 

areas might lack. Two new hectares are currently being planted in Rausch, 

which will bring the total area to eight hectares. Zilliken’s other primary 

vineyard site is the Ockfener Bockstein, which also produces wines of high 

quality, if not quite the breed of the Rausch. 

Zilliken’s wines, especially the higher-level ones, are 

made for the long haul. They can be uncompromisingly 

steely in their youth, unfolding slowly over many years 

to become gems of great finesse and complexity. Hanno 

Zilliken is extremely fastidious about keeping particular 

lots of wine separated – in 1999, for example, he 

made seven different Auslese. These are harvest selections, 

one barrel picked each day and vinified separately. 

When the wines are finished, blending decisions 

are made, as well as selections of Gold Capsule and 

Long Gold Capsule Auslese. Zilliken has developed a 

reputation as an Eiswein specialist, and the Gold 

Capsule wines are often partly or wholly composed of 

frozen grapes, which can contribute an extra degree of 

concentration and clarity. 

Hanno Zilliken is busy planting two more 

hectares of vines in his top-quality Rausch 

vineyard high above the city of Saarburg. 

The unassuming Zilliken estate house reveals nothing about the 

world-class winery within or the cavernous, three-level arched 

cellars beneath. 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Zilliken 


The initial 1998 harvest reports from the Saar were less 

than promising, but Zilliken’s wines surprised us with 

their ripeness and depth of fruit. In fact, the nonauction 

wines that we tasted seemed to echo the roundness 

and plushly forward character of the opulently 

ripe 1997s, without showing very much of the steely 

austerity that Zilliken’s wines are famous for. 

Zilliken did experience problems with the wet 

weather, and was able to produce only a small amount 

of wine above Kabinett level. “The grapes lost concentration 

because of the rain, and the must weights were 

going down,” Hanno told us. “We had 80+ [degrees 

Oechsle] in early October, but by the end of October we 

were happy to reach must weights of around 80.” 

Thanks to the November freeze, two late-harvested 

wines were produced in Saarburger Rausch and sold at 

auction. They are magnificent, standing among the best 

wines we tasted in this vintage from anywhere in 

Germany. Two Eisweins were also made from Saarburger 

Rausch. 

The following wines were tasted in Portland in March of 2000. 

Riesling halbtrocken 1998 - $12 

AP 10. Really racy depth and well-balanced ripeness on the nose, with a classic 

steely, minerally tone. Lemon cream, Asian pear, mandarin orange rinds, encased 

in firm but ripe acidity, with a delicately fresh, airy profile. Slightly creamy texture 

on the palate, sleekly lemony, with plenty of ripe fruit to balance the high acidity. 

Finishes with a floral fragrance and chalky minerality. Very impressive for a halbtrocken 

from the Saar, and especially in this vintage. 89 

Riesling 1998 - $12 

AP 9. Larger weight on the nose than the halbtrocken, smooth, round and softer 

than expected, with a floral, violety perfume. Ripe tangerine fruitiness in the 

mouth, nearly tropical, roundly mouthfilling with good presence on the back end 

and a fair bit of acidity, but this has so much fleshy fruit that it seems very plush 

and almost soft. Like the halbtrocken, this has a pleasantly surprising ripeness and 

depth of fruit for this vintage. 87 

Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett 1998 - $17 

AP 5. Appley, lemony fruit – again, quite round and ripe, but more firmly 

buttressed than the QbA, and with a more prominently minerally fragrance. 

Although there is a high degree of ripeness on the palate, there is also a slight feeling 

of dilution that was not present on the two previous wines, as if the rains of the 

vintage are being felt more keenly here. However, it finishes clean, lemony and 

well-built, with juicy acidity and good length. 88 

One of the new, grafted vines that has been planted in the broken 

slate soil of Zilliken’s two new hectares of Saarburger Rausch. 

THE ZILLIKEN ESTATE 





Varieties 


Top vineyards 

Saarburger Rausch 

Ockfener Bockstein 

Contact Information 

Weingut 

Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken 

Heckingstraße 20 

54439 Saarburg 

Phone: (+49) 6581-2456 

Fax: (+49) 6581-6763 

Visits by appointment only. 

Hanno speaks very good 

English. 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | Zilliken 

Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese 1998 (auction) - $66 

AP 4. Hanno Zilliken did not make a ‘regular’ Spätlese from the Rausch in 1998, 

as he felt that the grapes were too diluted. “We realized that it was not possible to 

achieve higher must weights because of the rain,” he told us. “The grapes were 

getting bigger and bigger, so we waited for the freeze to concentrate them.” Fortunately 

the freeze did indeed come, and this was harvested as Eiswein and reserved 

for the VDP auction. And what a wine it is! Richly glossy, Eiswein texture on the 

nose, vividly tropical array of pineapple, papaya, and honeydew aromas, really 

vibrant and expressive, with plenty of racy acidity to cut cleanly through the 

opulent velvety flesh. Dazzling intensity on the palate, with great depth and richness 

and a tightly wound core of tropical fruit, finishing with sleek, racy acidity, 

richly concentrated presence, and gripping, baritone length. Aristocratic. 95 

Saarburger Rausch Auslese Gold Capsule 1998 (auction) - $96 (375 ml) 

AP 3. This was also harvested as Eiswein, in mid-BA levels of must weight. It 

shows, texturally, on the nose, with rich, peachy, honeyed orange depth, but also 

retaining a sleekly delicate build. Really harmonious and elegant. Exuberant in the 

mouth, building slowly to a concentrated intensity on the back end. Searing acidity, 

perfectly balanced by rich extract and depth, prominently displayed on a 

sappy, juicy finish. 94 (+?) 

The rushing water in the middle of Saarburg gives the Rausch vineyard 

its name. Interestingly enough, the word Rausch can also 

mean ‘exhilarating,’ much like the wines. ‘Drunken’ is another 

meaning. 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | RUWER by Peter Liem 

Carl von Schubert – Maximin Grünhaus 

MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS IS UNdoubtedly 

one of the most hallowed 

names in the German wine world, 

spoken of in the same hushed tones 

of respect that are reserved for 

luminaries such as Egon Müller or 

Joh. Jos. Prüm. The wines are very 

highly sought after and fought over, 

and deservedly so, as they are 

among the most exquisite expressions 

of Riesling, and indeed of 

wine, anywhere in the world. 

The estate has a long history of 

wine production, dating back over a 

thousand years. Emperor Otto I, 

successor to Charles the Great, 

signed a document on Feb. 6, 966, 

that gave ownership of the vineyards 

to the Benedictine monastery 

of St. Maximin in Trier, and it was 

View of the von Schubert-Grünhaus estate from atop the Abtsberg vineyard. 

Photo by Carl von Schubert. 

from this that the vineyard names developed, ostensibly based on their 

relative quality. The wine of Bruderberg was intended for the novices, that 

of Herrenberg for the monks, and the best, from Abtsberg, was reserved 

for the Abbot, or so the story goes, apocryphal or not. 

It is, nevertheless, established that under the Benedictines, the wines 

of Maximin Grünhaus were renowned through the Middle Ages for their 

exceptional quality, and were able to fetch some of the highest prices in 

the region. The monastery owned the estate until the secularization 

imposed by Napoleon in 1811, when it was sold into private hands. Today 

it belongs to Dr. Carl von Schubert, whose family purchased it in 1882, 

and has worked since then to establish it as one of the greatest wine 

estates in Germany. 

The three vineyards of Maximin Grünhaus encompass 33 hectares 

planted exclusively with Riesling, and lie adjacent to each other on a 

contiguous slope. The smallest vineyard is the Bruderberg, located in a 

shallow, east-facing bowl next to Abtsberg. The soils of Bruderberg are 

similar to Abtsberg, but the situation and exposure of the slope create very 

different wines. Acidity is usually higher here than in the other two sites, 

and the wines are marked by a slightly earthy slatiness. 

On the western side of the hill is the vineyard of Herrenberg. Here you 

find a mixture of red and blue slate, and deeper topsoil. Because of this, 

Herrenberg retains more water, which works to its advantage in very dry 

years when the steep and well-drained slopes of Abtsberg can suffer from 


© May/June 2000

ESTATE REVIEW | von Schubert/Grünhaus 

drought stress. The peculiar slate of Herrenberg typically produces wines 

with flavors of stone fruits, such as peach and apricot, and can even hint 

at the exotic or tropical. The wines tend to open up sooner than those of 

Abtsberg, but are capable of equal longevity. Included in Herrenberg is a 

plot once called Viertelsberg (“quarter mountain”), so named because 

one-quarter of the production was taken out as tax to 

the monastery. 

Lying in between Herrenberg and Bruderberg is 

Abtsberg, one of the greatest vineyards in all of 

Germany. It was known in earlier times as Herrenberg- 

Abtsberg, and a weathered inscription on an old gate 

still standing in front of the vineyard reads ‘Maximiner 

- Grunhäuser - Herrenberg.’ Composed primarily of blue 

slate, the vineyard is quite steep, and has magnificent 

exposure to the south-southwest. 

Dr. von Schubert describes the Abtsberg wines as 

having “many layers of different fruit flavors, just like 

the layers of slate in the soil.” They are characterized by 

great finesse and breed, with crystalline clarity and long 

length. Often you find notes of black or red currants, 

and sometimes floral tones such as rose petals. Abtsberg wines are capable 

of great longevity, easily lasting 30 years or more, and take a long time 

to unfold. “They are like a butterfly – pretty when the wings are closed, but 

more colorful when open,” says Dr. von Schubert. “Abtsberg is a very 

special piece of land. It’s a gift that I am able to be here. We don’t want to 

lose anything that the vineyards produce. We try to make the purest 

Riesling and the clearest expression of our site.” 

Winemaking here is very traditional, still employing large, ancient oak 

barrels for storing and aging the wines. The cellarmaster and winemaker 

for nearly 20 years has been Alfons Heinrich, who, according to Dr. von 

Schubert, “has a hunger for doing it better each year.” Some trocken wines 

are made from both Herrenberg and Abtsberg. Dr. von Schubert also 

makes a fruity Qualitätswein (QbA) from each of the three vineyards, 

because one of his goals is to produce a range of wines that have very good 

quality, demonstrate character of site, have good aging potential, and yet 

remain good values. “The cheapest wine for aging that you can buy is a 

good QbA Riesling,” he says, citing instances of tasting properly stored 

examples 30 years later that still show very well. 

Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese are produced from Herrenberg and 

Abtsberg, vintage conditions permitting. Dr. von Schubert also is a believer 

in preserving the individual characters of special lots, which he often 

bottles separately and designates by a cask number (e.g. Auslese 215 from 

1998). Note that this number appears on the neck label, and is different 

from the AP number. These wines are similar in concept to other producers’ 

Gold Capsule or starred (one-star, two-star, etc.) Auslese. They usually 

come from very old vines in favored parcels of Herrenberg or Abtsberg, and 

are selected from very mature grapes, often with a bit of botrytis. These 

wines are, of course, made only when the quality is exceptional. 

“Abtsberg is a very special 

piece of land. It’s a gift that 

I am able to be here.” 

Dr. Carl von Schubert 


© May/June 2000


Under Dr. von Schubert, Maximin Grünhaus 

has acquired a great reputation for Eiswein. While 

working at Kloster Eberbach in the 1970s, Dr. von 

Schubert learned the technique of wrapping vines 

with plastic film just before the first expected frost 

in order to protect the fragile grapes from wind and rain. He first 

attempted this technique at Maximin Grünhaus in 1982, but, he says “it 

was a disaster.” First, the plastic was of the wrong type, retaining too 

much moisture, and second, it often simply blew away. 

Since 1989, he has used a type of micro-porous plastic film that allows 

sufficient moisture to escape while still preventing rain from entering. It 

was soon discovered that a secondary effect of the plastic wrapping was 

that it enhanced the conditions for healthy botrytis to develop without 

turning to grey rot. This technique has allowed not only the more frequent 

production of Eiswein in the 1990s, but also Beerenauslese in ’93 and 

Trockenbeerenauslese in ’94, ’95 and ’98. 


Nineteen ninety-eight presented its share of challenges, of course, with 

plenty of rain and cold weather. At the beginning of October, acidity was 

still high and the must weights low, but in the end, patience was rewarded, 

with the wines actually benefiting from the long hang-time. Dr. von Schubert 

expressed it succinctly in a memorable quote: “Riesling is a sort of 

genius weed that can adapt to each year’s weather.” The capable hands 

and attention to detail of Dr. von Schubert and his team have more than a 

little to do with it, as well. 

The wines from Maximin Grünhaus have turned out superbly, which is 

not at all surprising, considering the track record of the estate. It seems to 

me that ’98 is a vintage that clearly favors Abtsberg over Herrenberg at all 

Prädikat levels – the Abtsberg wines simply exhibit a finer tone, better 

balance and greater precision. There was no ‘regular’ Auslese made from 

Abtsberg in ’98 – only the two single-Fuder cuvées. A Trockenbeerenauslese 

from Abtsberg was also made. 

Herrenberg Riesling QbA trocken 1998 - $16 

AP 37. Cassis and pear aromas with a youthfully yeasty biscuit 

tone, quite broad but tautly wound. Good depth of fruit and 

well balanced. 85 

Bruderberg Riesling QbA 1998 - $17 

AP 1. Firm and a little austere, filling out on the palate with a 

nice strawberry fruitiness. Fresh and delicate, with ripe 

appeal. 86 

Herrenberg Riesling QbA 1998 - $17 

AP 2. Broad and ripe, a bit easygoing with its softly forward 

feel, but this is nicely approachable and will provide good 

drinking. 86 

The former monastery of St. Maximin is now the residence and 

winery for the von Schubert–Grünhaus estate. 


© May/June 2000


Abtsberg Riesling QbA 1998 - $18 

AP 3. Noticeably finer than the previous two wines, with 

ripe depth and citrusy acidity. Peach and red currant 

tones, softly round in structure, but juicy and balanced, 

with nice length on the finish. 87 

Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 1998 - $22 

AP 17. Like the QbA, there is, again, the broad sense of 

heavier soils here. Well built, but a little loose knit, with 

ripely forward flavors. Seems to lack the typical fineness 

and breed expected from Herrenberg. 86 

Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 1998 - $23 

AP 11. Taut and racy, with lemony citrus, and markedly 

finer than the Herrenberg. Really primary and backwards, 

with firmly buttressing acidity, promising a long 

and slow development. Finishes with plenty of aroma 

and detailed, intricate length. 90 

Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $25 

AP 12. Better built and with better texture than the Kabinett. Good aroma and 

balance, with pronounced tones of cassis. Well-focused and appealing. 88 

Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $27 

AP 13. On the nose this is lighter in body than the Herrenberg, but more vibrant, 

showing red currant, lime and guava aromas. Electric raciness in the mouth, 

marvelous class and breed, with finely nuanced depth. Very refined, finishing with 

expansive length and perfume. 92 

Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 219 1998 - $72 

AP 30. A bit more discreet and elegant than the extroverted Auslese 215, honeyed 

and tautly rich. Lovely dimension and complexity on the palate, really finely delineated, 

with detailed and precise nuance. Piercing and fine, combining sleek depth 

with aristocratic elegance and breed. Long, multi-faceted, razor-like finish. 95 

Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 215 1998 - $82 

AP 31. Aromas of pineapple, rice candy, orange peel and preserved mango, quite 

lush and girthy, packed with juicy fruit, but remains nimble enough to dance 

across your mouth with scintillating detail. Really harmonious, finishing with 

great length and expansion. 94 

Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein 1998 - $165 

AP 32. Hints of toffee, smoke, crème caramel, brown butter and lime peel. Very 

tightly knit, with a taut mineral backbone. Lovely texture, vibrant and silky, with 

rich, supple complexity, ethereal presence and a velvety perfume, long and aristocratic. 

95 

Abtsberg Riesling Eiswein 1998 - $325 

AP 33. Canned peaches and litchi, with notes of caramel, honeyed botrytis, toffee 

and peanut butter. Thickly textured and concentrated, with velvety, TBA-like 

presence paired with the glass-like tone of frozen grapes. Densely wound finish, 

with crushing intensity and palate-staining length. This ought to age forever. 97? 

THE VON SCHUBERT/ 

MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS 

ESTATE 





Varieties 


Müller-Thurgau 2% 

Kerner 1% 

Top vineyards 

Abtsberg 

Herrenberg 

Bruderberg 

Contact information 

Gutsverwaltung 

von Schubert – Grünhaus 

54318 Grünhaus-Mertesdorf 

Phone: (+49) 651-5111 

Fax: (+49) 651-52122 

Dr. von Schubert is very gracious 

and speaks excellent English. As 

with any of the top estates, an 

appointment is essential if you 

want to visit. 


© May/June 2000

TASTINGS by Peter Liem 

More 1998 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

HERE ARE A FEW OTHER WINES from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer that we 

tasted in Portland in March of 2000. For many more tasting notes from 

the 1998 vintage in all of Germany, please see the March/April 2000 issue 

of Riesling Report. 


Joh. Jos. Christoffel-Erben, Ürzig 

Notes for the remainder of Christoffel’s wines were included in the March/April 

2000 issue. Christoffel also made a four-star Auslese (AP 15) that was sold at 

auction. See our article on the 1999 VDP Auction in this issue for tasting notes. 

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese* 1998 - $30 

AP 9. Cleanly crisp nose, tighter and more focused than the ‘regular’ Auslese. Delicate 

apricot and apple aromas, very clean and refreshing. Perfumed in the mouth, 

picking up floral scents and tropical flavors of mango, passionfruit and lime. Good 

depth, firmly buttressed by crisp acidity. Finishes with length and grip. 91 

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese** 1998 - $33 

AP 14. A noticeable jump in must weights here. Lovely build, with a tight, velvety 

core of pineapple, candied orange and poached pear surrounded by a cloud of 

citrusy floral aromas. Broad, rich depth on the palate, with tropical ripeness and a 

delicately haunting perfume that momentarily distracts you from realizing how 

densely wound this is. Finishes with mouth-filling presence, long and caressingly 

encompassing. 93 

Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese** 1998 - $33 

AP 12. Sleek, racy nose, apricot, red berries, cinnamon and fresh ginger. A little 

more open than the Würzgarten two-star, but showing an even firmer balance of 

acidity at this stage. Appley and cleanly focused in the mouth, with just a touch of 

pastry-like, almondy richness. Superbly finished, with dense, expansive presence 

and multi-dimensional fragrance. Long and palate-staining, lovely wine. 93 (+?) 

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese*** 1998 - $45 

AP 13. Dense, honeyed and thickly textured, but with plenty of acidity to provide 

lift and elegance. Explosive richness on the palate. Tangerine, apricot, red currant, 

strawberry and fresh cream. Opulent, velvety texture, finishing dense and 

perfumed. Beautiful wine, but not necessarily ‘better’ than the two-star – just a 

different facet of the Christoffel jewel. 93 

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Eiswein 1998 - $135 (375 ml) 

AP 16. Glossy, richly viscous nose, with a wonderful balance of cocoa, pineapple, 

cassis, passionfruit and toffee aromas. Intensely rich in the mouth, but brilliant 

acidity keeps this racy and focused, building on the palate to a densely gripping 

and thunderous finish. Tooth-staining, opulently creamy and penetrating. Despite 

its intensity, it retains a tremendous sense of fineness and an elegant beauty. 

Lovely wine. 96 


© May/June 2000

TASTINGS | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

Reinhold Haart, Piesport 

The champion of Goldtröpfchen, one of the Mosel’s top sites, Theo Haart has also 

established himself as one of the Mosel’s top producers. His 1998s demonstrate 

the concentrated structure and great breed expected of this excellent estate. 

Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 1998 - $22 

Nice intensity and ripeness on the nose, cassis and pear skins, with a curiously 

savory tone reminiscent of meat broth and oregano. Finely rich and baritone in 

build. Ripe depth in the mouth, pretty seriously mineral-driven underneath 

compressed berry, currant and nectarine flavors. Finishes a bit short, but quite 

clean, with firm acidity. 89 

Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $30 

AP 11. Rich, bass-driven intensity, red currant, apple, pink grapefruit, grilled 

almonds. Creamy texture and an expansive undertone, with firm acidity keeping 

this sharply focused. Scintillating flavors of baked peach, litchi, currant, and 

Meyer lemon in the mouth, with knife-like balance and subtly penetrating depth. 

Finishes with sneaky persistence and finely subtle dimension. 92 

Piesporter Domherr Riesling Auslese 1998 - $36 

AP 12. Firm depth of red berry, apricot, tarragon and cured meat aromas, but the 

most backwards of these three Haart wines, hunkered down for the long haul. Rich 

presence on the palate, silky peach and mango flavors, backed by earthy minerals 

and the density of the site. This should be very long-lived. 91 (+?) 

Heymann-Löwenstein, Winningen 

One of the least known of the really great growers, 

Heymann-Löwenstein is a specialist in dry wines, thanks to 

top vineyard sites that allow sufficient ripening to produce 

them. The wines are often harvested at Spätlese or even 

Auslese levels of ripeness, but are sold as QbAs. Auslese from 

Heymann-Löwenstein always designates a sweet wine, 

produced in exceptional years. In 1998, two wines were 

produced for the VDP auction, and the notes for these appear 

in our article on the auction in this issue. 

Schieferterrassen Riesling QbA 1998 - $18 

AP 5. Intense concentration on the nose, showing bright aromas of cassis, strawberry, 

nectarine, pear and brown butter, underlined by piercing, slaty minerality. 

Full and rich in the mouth, again with a red fruitiness, and good depth in the midpalate. 

Racy acidity and firmly dry, but with plenty of richness to balance both 

factors. Steely slatiness dominates on the back end, finishing with sappy presence 

and fragrant, persistent length. 90 (+?) 

Herbert Pazen, Zeltingen 

The tiny Pazen estate is producing better and better wines that offer great 

quality at reasonable prices. 

Riesling QbA 1998 - $10 

AP 2. Cleanly zesty lime and green apple on the nose, broadening in the mouth to 

some peach and currant tones. Brilliantly racy acidity, really well built, with 

surprising depth on the back end. Delicious. 88 

Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 1998 - $13 

AP 1. Delicately built nose, high-toned and slightly creamy in texture. Good presence 

on the palate, but doesn’t come off quite as clean or crisp as the QbA. 86 


© May/June 2000

TASTINGS | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 

Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $15 

AP 3. Nice weight and balance on the nose, showing fresh pear fruit, sweet herbalness, 

and a slightly buttery oiliness. Sleekly built, with an acid balance more like 

the QbA than the Kabinett. Slightly confectionary tone in the mouth, but finishes 

with good acidity and depth. 87 


Karlsmühle, Mertesdorf 

We were only able to taste two ’98s from Karlsmühle, but these are the most 

impressive wines offered from this estate in some time. 

Lorenzhöfer Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $20 

AP 13. From Felslay, the steeper vineyard near the top of the slope. Lovely nose, 

perfumed, flowery, redolent of springtime frolicking and shimmering taffeta. 

Spiced pear, red currant, toffee, and a tarragon-like herbalness, nicely concentrated 

with plenty of racy acidity to match. Really beautifully built. Fresh, 

concentrated, and expressive on the palate, with a little explosion of lemon curd, 

orange blossom, and red berry fruitiness supported by a tautly firm acid presence. 

Finishes floral, richly aromatic, with sneaky length. 93 

Kaseler Kehrnagel Riesling Auslese 1998 - $35 

AP 17. From the Patheiger estate, whose vineyards are leased to Karlsmühle. This 

was harvested as Eiswein, at 105-110° Oechsle. Smoky, carnal aromas of black 

currant, lime, sweet herbs, fennel, vanilla and cured meat, picking up even wilder 

aromas of cocoa and mocha as it opens in the glass. Thick, slightly glassy texture 

and richly sweet depth, with a fine, sleek undertone. A racy, glossy presence in the 

mouth betrays the freeze, showing flavors of honeyed apricot, canned litchi and 

crystallized mandarin oranges. Tightly wound core of intensity, sleekly racy and 

kinetic, expanding on a cleanly rich, subtly powerful finish. Long and quietly 

gripping. 94 (+?) 

Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbach 

The high standards of this great Ruwer estate ensure that the wines are always 

of great quality and breed. The 1998s are tightly wound wines that will need a 

long time to develop and do not show very well in their youth, unlike the succulent 

’97s or ’99s. 

Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $30 

AP 9. Tightly coiled nose of white raisins and smoke, with an odd component of 

bittersweet chocolate. More constricted and primary than the wines from 

Maximin Grünhaus, still showing a youthfully disjointed profile, but this is wellbuilt 

and should improve nicely. 88 

Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese 1998 - $33 

AP 11. Quite perfumed and full-bodied in aroma, with hints of pear, baked apple, 

pine and lemongrass. Juicy and racy, with fine aromas and lovely dimension, 

finishing with long length. 92 


© May/June 2000

TASTINGS 

German Auction Wines 

EVERY FALL, THE TOP GERMAN WINE ESTATES 

come together, region by region, for their annual 

auctions. A vestige of the days when all the wines were 

sold this way, the modern auctions are showcase events 

where each estate brings a few limited-production, 

high-end wines. These are wines for serious Riesling 

fans and collectors. 

The top dog among all the auctions is the VDP- 

Mosel auction in Trier. Also known as ‘Grosser Ring’ (to 

differentiate it from the ‘Kleiner Ring’ auction of non- 

VDP estates in Bernkastel) the VDP-Mosel group 

includes a veritable who’s who of top German estates: 

Fritz Haag, Egon Müller, Dr. Loosen, J.J. Prüm and 

many others. 

Two smaller regions, the Ahr (mostly Pinot Noir) 

and the Nahe, combine their auctions each year in Bad 

Kreuznach. Though not as packed with luminaries as 

the Mosel, this auction does include two exceptional 

estates: Dönnhoff and Schlossgut Diel. 

Probably the least exciting of the auctions is the one in Rheingau, held 

at the grand Kloster Eberbach monastery. Although quality is improving 

in Rheingau, and we have great hopes for the future, at the moment only 

a few estates are producing wines that could truly be called ‘auction 

wines.’ This auction is usually dominated by the huge, high-scoring wines 

of Robert Weil and Franz Künstler. 

There is no region-wide auction in Rheinhessen, but for the past few 

years the Gunderloch estate has organized a small auction with a few 

colleagues, such as St. Antony and Kühling-Gillot. They are trying to 

establish it as a semi-annual event, so there will be no auction this year. 

How do the auctions work? 

In typical German fashion, these are not bidding free-for-alls where just 

anyone can jump up and down with a bidder card. No, this is a very 

controlled, highly organized event. Fortunately, it works very well. To 

place a bid, you must connect with one of the dozen or so wine merchants 

who are official auction commissioners. You tell them the wines you want, 

how many bottles and your top price. The bidding continues between the 

commissioners until everyone who remains gets what they wanted at the 

price they wanted. Thus, a ‘no limit’ bid will definitely get you the wine, 

but could cause some serious damage to your bank account. 

It is possible for normal folks to get a shot at these wines, even if you 

can’t travel to Germany in September. You just have to make the right 

connections. Please see the “How to get German auction wines” box on the 

next page for some suggestions. 

Ernst Loosen (right) watches as the bidding for his Erdener Prälat 

Long Gold Capsule Auslese gets fast and furious among the auction 

commissioners (foreground). Wilhelm Haag, president of the Mosel 

VDP, sits to the left. Eberhard von Kunow of the von Hövel estate is 

the auctioneer. 

GERMAN AUCTION 

CALENDAR 2000 

Bernkasteler Ring 

Tuesday, September 19 

Hotel Moselpark, Bernkastel 

“Kleiner Ring” auction of 

non-VDP Mosel estates. 

www.bernkasteler-ring.com 

VDP-Mosel 

Wednesday, September 20 

Europahalle, Trier 

“Grosser Ring” auction of 

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer VDP estates. 

www.vdp.de 

VDP Ahr & Nahe 

Sunday, September 24 

Museum Römerhalle, 

Bad Kreuznach 

VDP-Rheingau 

Saturday, September 30 

Kloster Eberbach 

by Kirk Wille 


© May/June 2000

TASTINGS | German Auction Wines 


We also tasted some auction wines from Zilliken and Joh. Jos. Prüm, the 

notes for which appear in their estate reviews in this issue. 

These wines were all tasted in Portland in February and March of 2000. 

VDP Mosel (Grosser Ring) 

Joh. Jos. Christoffel-Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese**** 1998 - $150 

AP 15. Bizarre nose, showing high-toned aromas of fresh straw, cucumber, smoke, 

apple and cooked meat. There is a curiously stemmy tone to this that is rather 

pronounced. In the mouth, it returns to more familiar ground: apricot, berry, 

honey, and smoky slate with a thickly glossy, Eiswein-like texture. A bit more sleek 

than Christoffel’s three-star Auslese, and with plenty of interest, but I don’t feel 

that this has quite the dimension or the length. 91? 

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule 1998 

$100 (375 ml) 

AP 13. Tenor-pitched aromas of pineapple, passionfruit and red currant jelly, with 

nice dimension and a fairly thick botrytis note. Racy and focused, with great acidity 

in the mouth to carry the increased weight here. Finishes with vertical dimension 

and a baritone resonance, with orange-blossom, honey, perfumed 

complexity. 96 

Heymann-Löwenstein Winninger Röttgen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Nr. 15 

1998 - $99 

AP 15. Very rich but incredibly constricted, sleekly racy, with pungent slatiness 

underneath dried apricot, tangerine peel, black plum, fresh thyme, cocoa and 

butter-cream aromas. Lovely presence in the mouth, creamily elegant and expressive, 

and really subtly nuanced. Racily kinetic acidity pushes this far back on the 

palate, expanding on the finish with an ethereal, almost confectionary perfume of 

orange blossom, lavender and red currant. Haunting, unending length. 95 (+?) 

Heymann-Löwenstein Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule 1998 

$90 (375 ml) 

AP 11. Thickly intense nose, but with great dimension and clarity, carrying its mass 

superbly. Pineapple, preserved mango and citrus peel aromas, buttery and richly 

sleek, with a finely balanced veneer of botrytis. Thick, TBA-like intensity on the 

palate, opulently velvety and botrytized, but again, with lots of dimension and real 

grand cru presence. Seamlessly built on the finish, richly compelling, very long 

and complex. 96 

Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese #58 1998 - $75 

AP 12. Positively lovely nose, sleekly racy, floral, and delicately refined, really crystalline 

and multi-faceted complexity against a background of elegantly perfumed 

slatiness. Cleanly focused array of nectarine, red currant, Bosc pear and pink 

grapefruit flavors on the palate, with brilliantly piercing but finely balanced acidity. 

Richly smooth and textural, with an almost painful clarity and definition. 

Long, multi-dimensional finish, with lemony raciness, pervasive slate and a 

hauntingly floral perfume. 95 

Milz-Laurentiushof Neumagener Nusswingert Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $N/A 

AP 20. Richly concentrated depth, tightly wound apple, orange peel and bitter 

melon, with a peculiar component of volatile acidity. Slightly candied in the 

mouth, with predominant flavors of orange cream and baked apple. Piercing acidity 

keeps this juicy and sharp, and a touch of botrytis adds to the already corpulent 

girth. The finish is dense and quite long. 92 

HOW TO GET GERMAN 

AUCTION WINES 

For non-European Riesling fans, 

there are three layers of international 

commerce you must 

traverse to get your hands on 

some auction wines. 

Retail 

Start with your favorite wine 

shop. Ask them to talk to their 

German wine supplier about 

submitting bids for you. 

If you run into a brick wall, you 

can contact Dee Vine Wines in 

San Francisco, a committed 

auction wine retailer. 

Phone: (415) 398-3838 

www.dvw.com 

Import/Wholesale 

If the distributor that supplies 

your local wineshop doesn’t 

have a clue about auction 

wines, have them contact an 

importer who does, such as 

Ewald Moseler Selections 

Phone: (503) 236-9370 

www.moseler.com 

Commissioner 

Your last resort will be to 

contact one of the 15 commissioners 

directly and see if they 

can help you work backwards to 

get the wines to you legally. 

The one we know best is Hans 

Selbach at J&H Selbach, the 

shipping & négociant business 

owned by the Selbach-Oster 

estate. 

Phone: (+49) 6532-2081 

European Riesling lovers have it 

easier. They can contact one of 

the auction commissioners 

directly to submit their bids. 

For a complete list of commissioners, 

check with the VDP, on 

the Web at www.vdp.de. 


© May/June 2000

TASTINGS | German Auction Wines 

Schloss Lieser Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese** Fuder 11 1998 

$36 (375 ml) 

AP 11. Richly concentrated power on the nose with well-balanced botrytis, but this 

comes off as a bit monolithic compared to the #9 one-star. Honeyed orange, 

passionfruit, cantaloupe and guava aromas on the palate, richly concentrated and 

mouth-filling but not really developing in complexity, and finishing a bit shorter 

than expected. 90 

Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $66 

AP 18. This is actually picked earlier than the regular Spätlese and made from a 

rigorous selection of tiny, perfectly healthy (botrytis-free) berries from the oldest 

vines. Tightly wound nose, razor-sharp and really backwards, showing taut aromas 

of licorice, pear and strawberry. Penetrating presence in the mouth, with a tight 

kernel of melon and mango-like fruit, really crystalline and defined. Finishes with 

insistent presence and long, subtly gripping depth: true vin de garde. Not at all 

about fruitiness – this isn’t a wine for everybody, but it’s superb. 94 

Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese 1998 - $52.50 

AP 7. A step up in concentration and breed from the #12 Spätlese (reviewed in the 

March/April 2000 issue of Riesling Report), tighter-grained, with a similar fruit 

profile, but amplified and with more precision. Scintillating in the mouth, with an 

opulent core of richness but a finely detailed, cut-crystal definition and amazing 

acidity that keeps this in perfect, racy balance. Multi-dimensional finish, dense, 

baritone and aristocratic. Superb wine. 95 

Bernkasteler Ring (Kleiner Ring) 

Kees-Kieren Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Spätlese** 1998 - $20 

AP 21. Deep aromas on the nose, a little tropical, with some botrytis. Fairly 

weighty and dense, but just manages to stay focused and lively. Nicely vibrant 

Bosc pear and nectarine tones on the palate, again quite weighty but still cleanly 

built. Finishes with baritone dimension, long, subtle length and lots of underlying 

acidity to keep it in motion. 92 

Kees-Kieren Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese*** 1998 - $120 

AP 23. Superb nose, thickly textured with glossy peach, honey, guava, papaya and 

grapefruit. Great dimension and breed, really expressive and vibrant. Pyrotechnic 

display of intensity and sleekly racy concentration in the mouth, unfolding in 

layers towards a fine, elegant, ethereally perfumed finish. Lovely, very complete 

wine. 97 (+?) 

Knebel Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese 1998 - $37.50 (500 ml) 

AP 15. Impressively dense nose, but a bitter quality to the botrytis that is troubling. 

High must weight, honeyed, with a pastry-like sheen and peachy, slightly tropical 

depth. A bit monolithic in the mouth, with a curious herbal tinge, again impressively 

concentrated but focused a bit too much on power. Bitter botrytis emerges 

again on a densely compacted finish, with aromas lingering from sheer mass 

rather than real persistence. 89? 

This emblem is affixed to each bottle 

to identify it as an auction wine. 

Authenticity can be confirmed by 

checking the AP number. 


© May/June 2000

THE LAST PAGE 

Rating the wines 

WINES ARE ASSESSED BASED ON THEIR perceived 

total potential lifespan. In an ideal world, prose would 

be the only language required, but of course we humans 

have a penchant for categorization and qualitative 

organization. Therefore, despite its flaws, we have 

chosen to include a numerical score in our notes, based 

on a hundred-point scale. We stress that the text of the 

tasting notes is the matter of importance, and that the 

score apart from the text is divested of meaning. A (+?) 

indicates the potential for an increased score. 

Tasting notes are by individual tasters, and not 

composites of a panel. We document who is tasting the 

wine, where, and when the wine is being tasted, as all 

three of these elements are crucial to the contextual 

understanding of the notes. In addition, lot numbers 

are provided whenever possible, and especially AP 

numbers for German wines. In general, unless otherwise 

noted, all tasting notes are Peter’s. 

Prices quoted are the current average retail on the 

West Coast of the United States. 

Next Issue – Austria! 

IN THE JULY/AUGUST ISSUE OF RIESLING REPORT we travel east to 

find out why Austria has become such a hot spot of wine drinking, at least 

among wine journalists. Austrians are making some incredibly intense 

and powerful Rieslings these days and Peter went there to find out how 

they’re doing it. He’ll be reporting on the 1998 vintage throughout Austria 

and we’ll take a look at how these massive dry wines work with food. 

We’ll also be telling you about the other amazing white wine from 

Austria: Grüner Veltliner. It’s all the rage with serious wine lovers and 

Austria is the best place that grows it. 

If that’s not enough, our first Austria issue will include reviews of these 

great Austrian estates: 

• Alois Kracher (Neusiedlersee) 

• Rudi Pichler (Wachau) 

• Erich Salomon (Kremstal) 

THE RIESLING REPORT RATING SCALE 

95–100 Classic. A perfect example of its type. 

The holy grail of all wine lovers, these 

are wines that stop time and transport 

you to a higher plane of existence. 

90–94 Exceptional. A superbly crafted wine 

with extraordinary attributes. 

85–89 Above average. Wines showing 

character, distinction and interest. 

80–84 Average. A drinkable wine, but without 

any special distinction. 

75–79 Below average. An underachiever. 

75 or less Poor or flawed. 

Only wines rated 85 or better will appear in this 

magazine. These are our personal recommendations. 

Complete tasting notes can be found in the Members 

Only area of the Riesling Report Web site: 

www.rieslingreport.com 


© May/June 2000

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