Directional Waves in the Nearshore Coastal Region of Perth ...

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Directional waves in the nearshore coastal region of Perth, Western AustraliaHuey Jean Tan3.2.1 DIRECTIONAL ANALYSIS................................................................................................. 293.2.2 NON-DIRECTIONAL ANALYSIS......................................................................................... 293.2.3 WIND ANALYSIS............................................................................................................. 294 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 304.1 INTRODUCTION 304.2 SEA BREEZE CYCLES 324.2.1 OVERALL PATTERN ........................................................................................................ 324.2.2 HOURLY TRENDS ........................................................................................................... 354.3 STORM EVENTS 414.3.1 OVERALL PATTERN ........................................................................................................ 414.3.2 HOURLY TRENDS............................................................................................................ 444.4 SWELL AND SEA COMPONENTS 504.4.1 CITY BEACH .................................................................................................................. 504.4.2 CABLES ASR ................................................................................................................. 524.5 WAVE RESPONSE TIME 544.6 WAVE REFLECTION 584.6.1 CITY BEACH .................................................................................................................. 584.6.2 CABLES ASR ................................................................................................................. 664.6.3 DISCUSSION OF THE REFLECTION COEFFICIENTS AT CITY BEACH AND CABLES ASR......... 735 CONCLUSIONS 746 REFERENCES 75APPENDICES 78APPENDIX A: “EMEP” FORMULATION 78APPENDIX B: MATLAB ® SCRIPTS 82Table of Contentsv
Directional waves in the nearshore coastal region of Perth, Western AustraliaHuey Jean TanLIST OF FIGURESFigure 2.1: Distribution of the ocean surface wave energy (after Kinsman 1965) ................................... 3Figure 2.2: The wave parameters of a two-dimensional simple progressive wave propagating in thepositive x-direction (after USACE 2002) ........................................................................................... 7Figure 2.3: Wave parameters for an irregular and random sea state (USACE 2002) ............................... 8Figure 2.4: The surface elevation time series and spectrum of a regular wave (USACE 2002)............ 10Figure 2.5: The surface elevation time series and spectrum of an irregular wave (USACE 2002) ....... 11Figure 2.6: An example of a directional spectrum (USACE 2002) ......................................................... 14Figure 2.7: Locality map of study area (adapted from Masselink & Pattiaratchi 2001)......................... 17Figure 2.8: A typical summer sequence for Perth (from BOM 1993) ..................................................... 22Figure 2.9: Typical weather pattern for winter for Perth (from BOM 1993) .......................................... 23Figure 3.1: InterOcean S4DW Current Meter (from ISI 2004a) .............................................................. 25Figure 3.2: A wave spectral energy plot indicating the frequency cut-offs for the swell and seacomponents of the wave field............................................................................................................ 28Figure 4.1: Wind and wave conditions measured in the nearshore region of City Beach from 21January to 09 February 2001: ............................................................................................................ 34Figure 4.2: Typical wave sequence induced by the sea breeze cycle measured in the nearshore regionof City Beach on the 25 – 26 January 2001...................................................................................... 40Figure 4.3: Wind and wave conditions measured in the nearshore region of Cables Artificial SurfingReef from 11 August to 27 August 1999:......................................................................................... 43Figure 4.4: Typical wave pattern induced by a storm associated with the mid-latitude depression,measured in the nearshore region of Cables ASR on the 23 – 24 August 1999............................. 49Figure 4.5: Nearshore significant wave height and peak wave period and their respective swell and seacomponents at City Beach for the period 21 January to 09 February 2001 ................................... 51Figure 4.6: Nearshore significant wave height and peak wave period and their respective swell and seacomponents at Cables Artificial Surfing Reef for the period 11 August to 27 August 1999........ 53Figure 4.7: Hourly sequence of polar plots of wave energy in terms of wave frequency and direction ofwave travel measured in the nearshore region of City Beach on 31 January 2001........................ 57Figure 4.8: Wave information at 06:00 on 21 January 2001 at City Beach. ........................................... 61Figure 4.9: Wave information at 17:00 on 26 January 2001 at City Beach. ........................................... 63Figure 4.10: Wave information at 10:00 on 31 January 2001 at City Beach. ......................................... 65Figure 4.11: Wave information at 09:00 on 17 August 1999 at Cables ASR. ........................................ 68Figure 4.12: Wave information at 09:00 on 18 August 1999 at Cables ASR. ........................................ 70Figure 4.13: Wave information at 18:00 on 18 August 1999 at Cables ASR. ........................................ 72viList of Figures
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