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NEW & NOW OPENSerendipityItalian Wine and Beer Cellar(Underneath Locanda De Gusti)– Exclusive Artisan Beers imported from Italy.– Fine Selection of Wines and Cocktails.– Candelit, relaxed ambience and comfy seating.– Italian Bar Menu.– Private Tasting Room.7-11 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BN, Scotland0131 558 9581 | www.locandadegusti.com
Review:Mark Greenaway at Hawke & HunterWe booked for lunch at the softlaunch of this new regime in thefirst week of February. Firstimpression was relief that the room wasphysically warmer – visits in this restaurant’sprevious incarnation had us enjoying the food& drink while huddling against the open firewith coats on. Now, a total reupholstering ofthe space, which includes carpeting whilstkeeping and enhancing its general ‘charcoalminimalism’, has raised the temperature to‘comfortable’ if not actively warming.On offer this week was a welcome glass ofchampagne. Once we had admired theattractive glassware but been disappointed bythe contents clearly being ‘extra-dry’ (midsweet)Prosecco, rather than Champagne, weenjoyed the attention of pleasant young staff– for example the unobtrusively charming girlwho announced a most delicious amuseboucheof carrot espuma with coriander seeds& pumpkin seed oil, topped with micro-herbs– which instantly raised our expectations.The active competition now became clearwith the Michelin-starred 21212 virtuallyacross the road. Food is less fussy, but just astechnically accomplished. We both had thelangoustine bisque with hot smoked salmonraviolo, topped with a generous ‘blackberry’of caviar to start – a frothy full-flavouredbroth with a generous langoustine bitetucked in with the strong smoked salmonpasta filling.For mains, well…I used to like skate but hadavoided it since a bad experience in Hampshirewhere it had been allowed to ‘mature’ a littletoo long before cooking…I held my breath andrisked re-ordering this time: thankfully theexperience renewed my faith. Soft spiral skaterolls, given additional texture byaccompanying squid, without the squid beingat all tough. This accompanied by a decentamount of brown butter jus, with beetroot &quenelles of olive mash – the taste & textureof the mash making up for its odd appearance.My only grouch was the ‘pearls’ – a flavour‘spherified’ in this way has to be intense and ajoy when it bursts in the mouth – these goldenpearls looked lovely but were tasteless and Ihave no idea what was in them.Desserts were picture-perfect and worth thevisit – including an exceptionally attractivecheese plate for my partner, the well-balancedselection featuring frosted red grapes. I havealready booked to return with friends towelcome this new addition! (The Go-Between)Mark Greenaway at Hawke &Hunter– 12 Picardy Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JT– 0131 557 0952– info@hawkeandhunter.co.ukOpening Hours12 noon -3pm & 5.30-10pm, closed Sunday3 course market menu £19.95 pp, available upto 7pm.13
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