Listen to thestoryof - Cahors

Listen to thestoryofCahors

The Fontaine des Chartreux resurgent river, the origin of Cahors,flows into the Lot to the south west of the meander.Drawn up in 1638 by Christophe Tassin, Geographer to the King, this map shows the bipartite layout of the citybefore the 19th C.A city takes shapeFounded by the Romans within a vast meander of the Lot surrounded by steep hillslopes,the antique city of Cahors occupied the whole of the loop, but in the MiddleAges retreated to just the eastern third. After the Revolution, the city expanded to occupythe entire meander once more. In the 20th C, it extended northwards and alsotook over the alluvial land on the left bank.An antique city within ameanderThe meander of the Lot, surroundedon three sides by steep hills, isthe site of a prolific Vauclusianspring, which was a place of worshipfor the Cadurci, the nativeGauls. Initially, this Celtic peoplelived in hill-forts, such as those atMurcens or Luzech.At some time towards the beginningof the 1st century of our era,the Romans founded the city of Divonawithin the meander, unoccupieduntil then. Besides the protectionafforded by the river, the sitewas the meeting point of three importantroutes which led to Bordeaux(Burdigala), Rodez (Segodunum)and Toulouse (Tolosa). Theantique city grew to occupy virtuallythe whole of the meander.Cahors, a city of two parts inthe early Middle AgesAfter the fall of the Roman Empire,the city retreated to the easternthird of the meander. In the 7th C.,the bishop St. Didier built or rebuiltthe walls and added a ditch, whichlay where the boulevard Gambettanow runs.A city of trade and commerce, thecapital of a small county whoseoverlord was the Bishop, Cahorsdeveloped considerably between the12th and 14th C.: the city properwas confined to the east of theditch, protected by the St. Didierwall. Here, the narrow streets ledoff the Grande Rue, the main commercialaxis running from north tosouth of the city. To the west of theditch, religious orders founded largeestablishments, surrounded bymany gardens. This two-part structureis still clearly visible today fromthe Mont St. Cyr viewpoint.However, in the 13th C., urbanpressure on land resulted in the appearanceof "barris"; small developmentsoutside the gates in thecity walls. "Barris" also grew upon the other side of the river, thanksto the two stone bridges: in the east,around the Dominican monasteryon the Cabessut plain, where therewere market gardens, and to thesouth, the St. Georges suburb alongthe Toulouse road. In the 14th C.,the Consuls' intention to create anew quarter in the west of themeander led to the building of theValentré Bridge, emblem of the city.The Hundred Years' War necessitatedthe construction of a second lineof fortifications cutting the meanderoff from the north.In 1219, the river traffic on the Lotwas the subject of an agreementbetween the Consuls and the Bishopto create a navigation channelfrom Cahors to Fumel, with weirsat intervals to retain water. Thesedevelopments were modernised duringthe reign of Louis XIV, atwhich time the first locks werebuilt.Despite the construction of somelarge buildings in the 17th C., suchas the Bishops' Palace, the church ofthe Regular Canons and the JesuitCollege, the urban structure of Cahorsremained the same until the19th C.

In the 19th C., the Boulevard Gambetta became the mainthoroughfare of Cahors.The city's contemporary urban development is concentratedlargely to the north of the meander and on the left bankof the Lot.Cahors is surrounded by a limestone plateau ("causse")dotted with fine rural buildings.The 19th C. : opening up the oldtown, re-occupation of the westof the meanderAfter the Revolution, the consequentclosure of religious foundationsand the sale of their buildingsas "National Property", Cahors expandedwestwards in the 19th C.,replacing the former monasteriesand convents with institutional, industrialor cultural buildings, suchas the Law Courts, the tobaccodrying/packing plant and the library.The Boulevard Gambetta, built overthe filled-in ditch, became the city'smain thoroughfare in the 19th C.,lined with cafés, banks and administrativebuildings. Two largesquares opened on to it: in thesouth, the Place d'Armes prolongedby a promenade, the Cours Fénelon(now the Allées Fénelon); in thenorth, the Place Thiers (now Placede Gaulle) originally intended as amilitary exercise ground. To thesouth, the Louis Philippe bridge,opened in 1838, carried the roadover the Lot.New east-west streets or realignmentsof old ones opened the mediaevaltown up to the boulevard tosome extent: e.g. Rue Foch (1822),Rue Feydel (1834) or Rue Brives(1836).The modernisation of the city, nowa Préfecture (roughly equivalent toa county town), included theconstruction of the "quais" (roadsrunning beside the river) and theinstitution of a public hygiene policy,which took concrete form in1854 with the construction of theCabazat pumping station, enablingclean drinking water from the Fontainedes Chartreux to be pipedaround the city.From 1869 onwards, the railwaysbegan to establish themselves on thewestern fringe of the meander.The 20th C.: living in the citywhilst preserving its heritageTopographical constraints, the virtualabsence of industry and later,the legislation regarding HistoricMonuments, have engendered urbandevelopment which is respectfulof the old. It is mainly concentratedin the north of the meander(Saint-Namphaise, Sainte-Valérie,Lamothe, Bellevue and Regourd)and the flat areas on the left bank ofthe Lot: Cabessut and Terre Rougein the east, Saint-Georges in thesouth, Croix-de-Fer in the west.Beyond these quarters, commercialand industrial zones extend alongthe Toulouse road to the south, tothe west on the Labéraudie plainand in Regourd to the north.Cahors, with its 20,000 inhabitants,includes within its boundaries a significantrural area, composed of alimestone plateau dotted with numeroushamlets, around whichthere is increasing pressure on buildingland.

This idealised 20th C. bust represents Lucterius,the last Gaulish chief to have resistedCaesar.This dolphin mosaic is one of the 50 antiquemosaics found in Cahors.The Te Igitur, on which oaths were sworn, is amediaeval town council register, in which thecity customs are set down.Windows 117, Rue de Lastié, 14th C.The city through the agesThe capital of the Cadurci, Romanised Gauls, became a rich merchant city in theMiddle Ages, and then in the 16th - 18th C. an intellectual and administrative centre,little touched by the Reformation. "County town" of a rural "département"since the Revolution, surrounded by ancient vineyards, commerce and administrationare the essence of Cahors' activity.Divona, capital of theRomanised Cadurci peopleThe Cadurci, who gave their name toQuercy, were the last people to offerarmed resistance to Caesar under thecommand of a former lieutenant ofVercingetorix, Lucterius, who escapedfrom Alesia. The final capitulationcame after the battle of Uxellodunumin 51 B.C., which put an endto the Gallic Wars.Founded in the centre of the Cadurci'sterritory during the reign of Augustus,the sanctuary-city grew up close to aresurgent river sacred to the Celticgoddess Divona, whose name it adopted.Although we know nothing ofthe city's exact status or configuration,archaeology constantly revealsits opulence: a theatre, an amphitheatre,a monumental baths complex, acircular temple…These stood on a regular,rectilinear street layout, and onecan imagine the streets lined withcraftsmen's shops and fine houses decoratedwith mosaics. The discoveryof several potters' kilns, plus the mentionby Strabo, Pliny the Elder and Juvenalof a high-quality locally-producedlinen cloth are indicative of athriving craft industry.Saint Didier, Bishop and builderDestroyed during various invasions,Cahors retreated to the eastern thirdof the meander. From 630 to 655, theprovince of Quercy was governed byBishop Didier, a member of the aristocracyof Aquitaine and former treasurerto King Dagobert: in Cahors, hereinforced the fortifications, hadmuch work done on the cathedraland founded the monastery of St.Géry. We know very little about thecity in the early Middle Ages exceptduring this bishop's reign.Cahors, a mediaeval centre oftrade and commerceThe 12th to 14th C. was a GoldenAge for the capital of Quercy. Influencedby bankers from Lombardy,who had come to Cahors in the wakeof the Albigensian Crusade, a few leadinglocal families, such as the DeJean, Béral, De Via or Duèze, took upbanking and international commerce.The streets of the city were alive andbustling with commercial and craftactivity.In the 13th C., the Bishop's powerwas increasingly challenged by theConsulate, a civic assembly made upin the 14th C. of 12 notables, six representingthe city's quarters and sixthe trade guilds: they regulated thepublic domain, owning hospitals,markets and butchers' shops. The religiouspresence was still very strong,with the cathedral complex, the fourMendicant Orders (Dominicans,Franciscans, Augustinians and Carmelites),the Carthusians and ten parishchurches, not to mention facilitiesfor pilgrims to Santiago de Compostelafollowing the Puy en Velay route.To settle the differences between Bishopand Consuls, an agreement (paréage)was signed in 1307 dividingthe overlordship equally between theBishop and the King of France: this effectivelyconcretised the Bishop's lossof influence in favour of the Consuls,who, in 1308, laid the first stone ofthe Valentré Bridge.Born into a rich local bourgeois family,Jacques Duèze became Pope in1316 under the name of John XXII:he founded Cahors University in1332. He drew members of the localélite to his court in Avignon, and launchedthe reconstruction of the churchof St. Barthélémy. Despite the late instigationof two annual eight-day fairsin 1339, the city's prosperity began to

Detail of the entrance to the Hôtel d'Alamand,circa 1500.The monument-fountain in honour of ClémentMarot was put up in 1892, thanks to the Sociétédes Études du Lot.Work published in Cahors by the printer Dalvy in1619.Born in Cahors, Léon Gambetta was afamous 19th C. republican parliamentaryfigure.decline, accelerated by the plague in1348 and the Hundred Years' War: in1360, the Treaty of Bretigny cededQuercy to the English, but the Cadurciensvery soon rebelled againsttheir domination.11 From the Middle Ages to theRenaissanceIn the aftermath of the HundredYears' War, Cahors' population wasgreatly depleted. Fifty years after theend of the conflict, a religious and artisticrevival took place, inspired byBishop Antoine d'Alamand: the LadyChapel of the Cathedral (now the"Chapelle Profonde") provides thefirst example of a new, creative style ofsculpture, featuring pruned branchesand full-blown roses, which graduallyspread to the city's fine houses.Even though the Renaissance only lefttwo characteristic examples of architecturehere, it was nevertheless animportant period for the city: birthplaceof the humanist poets ClémentMarot and Olivier de Magny, Cahorshad a vibrant intellectual life. Religiousorders and university collegesprovided scope for printers and booksellerssuch as the Rousseau family.Amongst the University's teacherswere the erudite legal expert Cujasand the theologian Pierre Charron.Despite Galiot de Genouillac, GrandMaster of Artillery under François I,becoming the Seneschal of Quercy in1517, the architecture of Cahors waslittle marked by the Italianate stylewhich he favoured. The Reformationmade few converts here, but Cahorswas the scene of fierce fighting whenHenri de Navarre (the Huguenot leader)took the city in May 1580.The 17th C.: Counter-Reformation,legal and administrative reorganisationThe most influential person of thisperiod in Cahors was Alain de Solminihac(1636-59). A friend of St. Vincentde Paul, he brought the CounterReformation to Quercy, founded oneof the first great seminaries in France,and executed his pastoral and charitableduties with indefatigable zeal.Under the aegis of the Jesuits and theUniversity, throughout the first half ofthe century the city remained an activecentre of intellectual life, attractingstudents such as François de Salignacde la Mothe-Fénelon, who became aDoctor of Theology at the University(and later, tutor to Louis XIV's grandsons).In 1635, Quercy became part of theMontauban administrative area, andthe chief town of a tax district. Thepresence of various financial and legalinstitutions attracted a large numberof magistrates, officers and personnelwho occupied the city's fine mediaevalhouses, refurbishing them in the Baroquetaste of the period.The transfer of an important financialtribunal to Montauban in 1662, andthe suppression of the University in1751 marked the loss of Cahors' formerinfluence in the legal and intellectualdomains."Préfecture" of a rural départementThe "département" of the Lot wascreated in 1790, and Cahors becamethe "préfecture" (county town) in1800. The Lot at this time covered theformer province of Quercy.In the 19th C., Cahors was a largelyadministrative and commercial city,little affected by the Industrial Revolution.Modern developments, suchas the Louis Philippe bridge, ceremoniallyopened on 6th May 1838,brought new life to the town. Thehome town of Gambetta (a very famouspolitician) sent 3 600 soldiers tothe Franco-Prussian war in 1870. Thephylloxera outbreak in 1876 destroyedthe vineyards, driving manypeople to leave the countryside, tendencyreinforced by the two WorldWars, with their contribution of deathand repression. In the 20th C., Cahors'population was enriched by thearrival of Spanish Republicans andPortuguese migrant workers.The restoration of the ConservationSector and the new focus on the Malbecgrape (main variety used for Cahorswine) are now strategic vectors inthe city's development.

The Black Wine of Cahors has enjoyed a good reputationsince the Middle AgesThe "Quercynois platter" offers foie gras, walnuts, cured duckbreast and cabécou.In Quercy, the saffron crocus produces a high-quality spiceThe best of local flavour and know-howRenowned since the 13th C. for the distinctive character of its wine, the mere mentionof the name Cahors is enough to conjure up visions of a quality lifestyle, goodfood and wine, and beautiful, unspoiled surroundings.Cahors wineMade principally from the Malbecgrape, as early as the 13th C. Cahorswine was particularly enjoyedby the English, who dubbed it"Black Wine". Very tannic, high inalcohol, it survived being transportedlong distances: loaded on to flatbottomedboats going down theLot, it was the perfect export productin the Middle Ages, and still is.About 1310, the Cahors wine tradewas based on a high volume of production,exported in part via theport of Bordeaux. In the 16th C.,King François I (contemporary ofHenry VIII) greatly enjoyed it andhad Cahors vines planted in Fontainebleau.Cahors wine scaled the heights inthe 18th C.: appreciated in the greatroyal courts of Europe, it becamethe mass wine of the Russian OrthodoxChurch. After 1850, thevines covered 40 000 hectares, andit conquered the national marketthanks to the Lot waterway improvementsand to the railways.Ravaged by phylloxera from 1876onwards, the vineyards did not recoveruntil after the Second WorldWar, finally obtaining AOC statusin 1971. The AOC Cahors areanow covers 4000 hectares, made upof small and medium-sized propertieswhose wines express all thenuances of the appellation.Cabecou cheeseThis creamy little goat's cheesemade from raw milk existed as farback as the 15th C., at which time,so it is said, it was used to pay farmrents and taxes. It obtained AOCstatus in 1995 under the appellationRocamadour. This local delicacygoes very well with salad, walnut,smoked duck breast and foie gras tomake a "Quercynois platter", andcan also be enjoyed with honey.SaffronGrown in Mesopotamia over 4500years ago, the mauve Crocus Sativusspread around the Mediterranean.The bright orange stigmata of its pistilproduce saffron, used as both amedicinal and a dye plant. However,it has always been most appreciatedas a spice. In the Middle Ages,Quercy and the Albi area grew highqualitysaffron, providing half of allthe kingdom's production; and forthis reason, King Henri III granted in1589 the establishment of four annualfairs and a weekly market in Albasin Quercy. Needing meticulouscare and much manual work, thiscrop suddenly disappeared in the18th C.As of 1997, saffron-growing hasbeen revived locally, and the qualityof the spice has obtained officialrecognition.The "black diamond"Known to the Romans, forgottenfor most of the Middle Ages, thetruffle is a delicacy which made itsreappearance in the 14th C. on thetable of the Duc de Berry, brother ofKing Charles V. From then on,many references to it extol its flavouras much as its reputed aphrodisiacproperties. The black truffle(tuber melanosporum), called "thePérigord truffle", is found boththere and here in Quercy. Borne onthe rootlets of small oak trees onthe thin, stony soil of the limestoneplateau, on which it can produceburnt-looking patches, this truffle isconsidered by specialists to have the

The black truffle is a prized delicacyEvery Wednesday and Saturday morning, a livelymarket is held on the Place ChapouThe windows of the former printers Coueslant,rue Wilson, are decorated with putti surroundedby objects linked with printing.The Secret Gardens have been awarded"Remarkable Gardens" status.best scent and flavour of any kind.It is harvested from December toMarch with the aid of a pig, a dogor by observing the flight of a specificfly. The "black diamond", despiteits increasing rarity, drawscrowds to the market in Lalbenqueand graces the cuisine of our bestcreative chefs.Markets and local specialitiesEvery Wednesday and Saturdaymorning, Cahors market brings a livelymix of bright colours and deliciousscents to the Place Chapou.All the products already mentionedcan be found there, plus numerousother specialities such as Croustilotbread, made with wheat grown inthe Lot, Quercy melons, juicy andsweet, fruit and vegetables grownlocally, Quercy Farm Lamb, producedfrom the Caussenarde breed,and pastis, a cake made with paperthinfilo pastry filled with apple puréeflavoured with alcohol. In additionto the outdoor market,throughout the week a coveredmarket and several shops sell localproduce which you can also enjoyin the city's restaurants.Printing and bookbindingThe presence of the University, themunicipal authority and the Bishopencouraged printers to set up businessin Cahors from the late 16th C.onwards. These businesses involvedentire families, covering both theprinting trade and bookselling. Thefirst dynasty of printers from Cahorswas founded in 1586 byJacques Rousseau, an itinerantcraftsman from Angers. From the17th C. to the 19th C., there werealso the Dalvy, Bonnet and Richardfamilies.In the 17th C., whilst Montaubanproduced Protestant writings by thecartload, Cahors was "the mirror ofthe Counter Reformation": the majorityof the 432 publicationsbrought out were in fact religious literaturein some form. Paradoxically,unlike the clergy or the colleges,the University of Cahorsnever used or supported the printersof the city. In the 18th C., activity inthis sector slowed down, but revivedagain in the late 19th C. underthe aegis of the Coueslant family.This local printing tradition is stillmaintained, in particular by theFrance-Quercy printing company.Craftsmen-bookbinders, booksellers,printers and a renowned AntiqueBook Fair help to keep thissector active.The Secret Gardens and thequality of the environmentThe city created the Secret Gardensin 2002 to bring life back to abandonedspaces within the old town.25 in all, they are imaginatively basedon the theme of the mediaevalgarden. Set amongst ancient buildings,each one different, the SecretGardens as a whole have beenawarded "Remarkable Garden"status by the Ministry of Culture.Little affected by industrial development,Cahors has retained numerousgreen spaces, both publicand private, within its meander.When you look beyond the river,there is no visual pollution, just aview of the unspoiled landscape ofthe Causse.The "Fontaine des Chartreux" providesCahors with all its drinkingwater, which has a good balance ofminerals and a very low nitrate andpesticide content. Waste water istreated in an innovative sewageplant which employs a biologicalmethod of eliminating pollutionusing specially activated sludge.

The Arc de Diane is a vestige of the Romanbaths of Cahors.This large section of the wall of an amphitheatrewas revealed during the construction of an undergroundcar park.The Cathedral of St. Etienne has two Romanesquecupolas.The frieze depicting Genesis dates from1270-1300.All around the townFrom the Arc de Diane to mediaeval houses, from the Valentré Bridge to the Cathedral,from the Jesuit College to early social housing, two thousand years of historyhave left their mark for visitors to see.1 18 Traces of antique DivonaAs there are no references or archivedocuments concerning Cahorsin antique times, ourknowledge of Divona's monumentsdepends on archaeology.The city's origin lies in the resurgentriver of Divona, Celtic goddessof subterranean waters. Theworship of Divona at this Vauclusianspring, now called the Fontainedes Chartreux, intensifiedafter the Romans founded the city,as witness the thousand Gallo-Roman coins found deep in thespring. The most impressive antiquevestige in terms of height is alarge masonry arch erroneouslycalled the "Arc de Diane" : it is infact part of the interior of the frigidarium,containing the cold poolof the Roman baths. Water wasbrought 33km by aqueduct fromsprings in the Vers valley, northeastof Cahors, and the bathscomplex covered an area of3000m2. Unlike the foundationsof a large circular temple discoverednear the hospital and coveredup again, the long stretch of amphitheatrewall uncovered duringthe Allées Fénelon archaeologicalexcavations is still visible. Thiswall, faced with small blocks ofdressed limestone with a solid rubbleinterior, must have run forover 100m east-west. A small vestigeof the Roman theatre is alsovisible beneath the Chamber ofAgriculture building opposite thestation. Fifty mosaics and objectssuch as a sarcophagus decoratedwith a hunting scene (conserved inthe Cahors Henri-Martin Museum)have also been excavatedfrom antique Divona.13 The cathedral complexTraditionally, the building of theearly Cathedral of St. Etienne andits ecclesiastical complex has beenattributed to the bishop St. Didierin the 7th C. Pope Calixtus IIconsecrated the Romanesque cathedral'stwo main altars in 1119.The nave, covered by two of thelargest cupolas in the South-West,gave on to an ambulatory with radiatingchapels. The tympanum ofthe north doorway, dating fromthe middle of the 12th C., showsthe Ascension of Christ and themartyrdom of St. Stephen(Etienne). In the 13th and 14th C.the Gothic style left its mark onthe east end, the massive westerntower and the chapel of St. Martin;and the cloister, along with thechapel of St. Gausbert, was rebuiltin the Flamboyant Gothic style,starting in 1493. Some importantvestiges of mediaeval wall paintinghave been conserved, such asthose in the western cupola andthe frieze depicting Genesis in thewestern tower. There are severalremarkable elements dating fromthe 17th and 18th C. such as thereredos of the Chapelle Profonde(late 17th C.) and the Canons'Gallery (1734). The apse wascompletely repainted in the 19thC. by Cyprien-Antoine Calmon,an artist from Cahors, at the sametime as the stained-glass windowswere installed.10 12 15 Cahors, a conservatoryof mediaeval housesThe wealth and variety of mediaevalbuildings in Cahors isconstantly being revealed as restorationwork is undertaken in the 30hectares of the Conservation Sector.

N° 12 rue de la Daurade is one of the oldesthalf-timbered houses in the South of France.The pulpit of the church of St. Barthélémy is a fineexample of 17th C. church furniture.A statue of the Virgin and Child decorates the façadeof the church of St. Urcisse.The Valentré Bridge is the monumentwhich symbolises Cahors.Several hundred houses from the12th - 14th C., with widely varyingstyles and features, are still standing;from 13th C. half-timberedhouses such as that at n° 12, rueDaurade to the Chantrerie, a merchants'lodge of the 14th C.; frombourgeois houses with shop arcadesin the rue du Château du Roi to theDuèze and de Via urban palaces.The pragmatism, creativity andpower of the people of mediaevalCahors are manifest in this host ofbuildings.These houses, composed of fourmain building materials : Cahors limestone,Figeac sandstone, brickand wood, often still have visibleshop arcades on the ground floorand finely-sculpted windows on theupper floors. The rues Nationale,de la Chantrerie, de la Daurade, duChâteau du Roi and des Soubirousprovide a representative sample ofthe mediaeval houses of Cahors.16 St. Barthélémy ChurchFormerly St. Etienne des Soubirous,St. Barthélémy is one of the ten parishchurches within Cahors in theMiddle Ages. This big building inthe Southern Gothic style is flankedby a large bell-tower-cumporchwith pointed-arch openingson three levels. Jacques Duèze wasbaptised there in 1244. After beingelected Pope, he ordered its reconstruction.Close by, his brother Pierrehad the imposing palace with itstall corner tower built. In 1644, St.Barthélémy was attached to theGreat Seminary founded by the bishopAlain de Solminihac. Thechurch contains mediaeval wallpaintings, an interesting collectionof paintings dating from the 17th C.to the 20th C. and a wooden pulpitdating from 1663 made by the mastercraftsman carpenter BertrandRouzières of Cahors.6 St. Urcisse ChurchIn the Badernes quarter, this parishchurch founded in early times is namedfor a 6th C. bishop of Cahors.The present structure is the result ofseveral building campaigns datingfrom the 12th - 19th C. The centralnave is flanked by two side-aisles. Itis just possible to identify the presenceof the Romanesque portal decoratedwith billets on the southwall; it was no doubt abandoned inthe early 14th C. in favour of thelarge portal with arched mouldingsopened in the west front. This doorwaywith niches for statues at theside and rather summary foliate decorationframes a partially re-workedmediaeval statue of the Virginand Child.19 20 The Valentré bridge andsurroundingsIn the 14th C., three bridges spannedthe Lot in Cahors: the OldBridge, in the south, dating nodoubt from the12th C. (possibly onantique foundations) followed onfrom the mediaeval main street; the13th C. New Bridge in the east ledto the Dominican monastery andthe Villefranche road; and the ValentréBridge in the west, the onlyone to survive, intended to serve anew quarter of the city. This iconicstructure was decided on by theConsuls in 1306, and work on itcontinued until about 1380. A listedHistoric Monument since 1840, itwas restored in a respectful mannerby the architect Paul Gout in the19th C.: he reinforced its militaryaspect, and had a small devil-figurecarved at the top of the central toweras a reminder of the legend claimingthat Satan had a hand in thebuilding. It has three towers, two ofwhich are fortified, and the slightlyhumped roadway is carried on wideGothic arches. It is the best preserved,most representative mediaevalfortified bridge in France.Upstream lies the Fontaine desChartreux, a resurgent river sacredto the Gauls and now the source ofall Cahors' drinking water. Featureslinked to river transport are still visible:the towpath, weir and lock.The latter has walls with roundedends, indicating their 19th C. origin.Fifty metres upstream from thebridge, the former pumping stationfor the waters of the Fontaine desChartreux, Cabazat, has becomethe "Maison de l'Eau", where exhibitionsand activities on the themeof water and the Valentré Bridgeare held.

The "Maison de l'Eau" occupies the formerCabazat water pumping station.The St. Michel Gate formerly opened on to theBordeaux road.The "Chapelle Profonde" in the cathedral has arichly-carved décor.The façade of the Archdeacon's House is anexample of the first French Renaissance style.All around the town17 The northern fortificationsA well-preserved line of fortifications,completely closing off thesouthern part of the meander, wasbuilt during the Hundred Years'War. Beyond the La Barre quarter,the wall begins in the east with alarge tower open on one side, the St.Jean tower. Nearby stands a 16th C.guard post, wrongly called "theBarbican", whose walls are piercedwith numerous loopholes for firingarquebuses. Preserved almost intactover a distance of 400m, the wall,which was made higher on severaloccasions, includes various structuressuch as the St. Michel Gateand square towers such as La PoudrièreTower. Beyond the breachmade to accommodate the railway,the fortification continues acrossthe Plaine du Pal with curtain wallsflanked by a 14th C. brick towerand a 15th C. artillery tower.8 An original school of sculptureabout 1500The cathedral's Lady Chapel (nowthe Chapelle Profonde), consecratedwith great ceremony by Bishop Antoined'Alamand in 1484, marks aliturgical and artistic renewal afterthe difficult times of the HundredYears' War. The carved décor, featuringpruned branches, full-blownroses, flaming suns, lilies andmoons, is related to the cult of theImmaculate Virgin. Around 1500,this innovative type of ornamentation,artistic expression of a trulyCahors-based school of sculpture,spread to several fine residences inthe city, such as the Hôtel d'Alamand,rue du Portail Alban, or theHôtel de Roaldès ("Maison HenriIV"), rue des Pénitents.4 9 A discreet RenaissanceThe capital of Quercy was littletouched by the style of the FirstFrench Renaissance, that of theLoire châteaux. Only two façadesdisplay the Italianate decorative repertoire:with its staircase combiningthe characteristics of bothspiral and straight-flight ones, theArchdeacon's House, near the cathedral,was given a façade richlydecorated with foliate scrolls, putti,pilasters with "candelabra" carvings,and medallions. In the rue duDr. Bergougnoux, a mediaevalhouse was redecorated in 1530with remarkable, recently-restoredsculpted windows.The Second Renaissance, markinga return to the classical orders ofantiquity, is even more discreetlypresent in the windows at the backof the house in the rue du Dr. Bergougnoux,and in a wall-tomb ofthe former convent church of LaDaurade (now the square Olivier deMagny).5 Doors, staircases and "mirandes"In the 17th C., magistrates, churchdignitaries and university lecturerstransformed the mediaeval housesin which they lived: the panels ofthe front doors were outlined bysections studded with iron nails.Some were richly carved with fruit,flowers or lions' heads and set withina Baroque portal beneath abroken pediment framing an oculus(116, rue Nationale; 58 rue du Châteaudu Roi). A rustic iron knockerwas set in the centre of the door.Staircases with balusters of stoneor wood gave access to the reorganisedinteriors (place St. Priest).Plain mullioned windows were installedin the main living areas,

One of the finest Baroque doorways in Cahors,116, rue Nationale.Authentic 17th C. wooden staircase.The bell-tower of the Jesuit college is the work ofthe architect Antoine Chassagnard.Some doors still have their 18th C.knockers.whilst the upper floor immediatelybelow the roof-space, used fordrying sheets, cereals or other produce,was given "mirandes": openingsin the form of basket-handlearches (230, rue Nationale). Brickvaults in cellars, "French-style" ceilings(alternating exposed beamsand panels, sometimes painted withfoliate scrolls surrounding antiquebusts and putti), brick or stone fireplaces,and wooden parquetfloors are other 17th C. featurescontributing to the historic value ofthese houses.2 Some 17th C. and 18th C.monuments.The Bishops' Palace, now the prefecture,was rebuilt between 1686and 1701 by the architect De Bry,sometimes identified with FrançoisDorbay, Architect to the King, whoworked on Montauban Cathedral.The only large town house "betweencourtyard and garden" in Cahors,it has a stone staircase withstraight flights. The eight large arcadesset in the wall running alongthe rue Clément Marot are the onlyvestige of the mediaeval bishops'palace.The Jesuit College (now the GambettaJunior High School): the Jesuitscame to Cahors in 1605, initiallyoccupying the buildings of theformer College of Quercy (16th C.).They modified the former chapel ofSt. Michel-des-Pauvres, which theyreconsecrated in honour of St. Ignatiusde Loyola, founder of their order,and entrusted the decor to twoJesuit painters, François Blanc andJean Planchette. The Jesuits hadtwo large blocks built, at the junctionof which was placed a greatstaircase with straight flights. In thecentre of the establishment, the"Declamation Chamber" has a remarkable"French-style" ceiling,whose painted decor glorifies theSibyls (ancient oracular seeresses)and women of the Old Testament.In 1676, the construction of theToulouse-style bell-tower overlookingthe college was entrusted tothe architect Antoine Chassagnard.The Great Seminary (now annexeof the Prefecture): founded in 1638by the bishop Alain de Solminihacin the context of a complete overhaulof the training of the clergy, itsmanagement was entrusted to theLazarist Fathers, an order foundedby St. Vincent de Paul. The westwing was destroyed during the SecondWorld War, so only the southwing of the former seminary, rebuiltafter 1731, remains. A greatstaircase with an elegant ironworkbalustrade leads to the upper floors.The 18th C. has left few traces inCahors, except in the Cathedral(marble features and wooden organloft); some fine staircases and a fewdoors bearing elegant knockers (rueFeydel, rue Caviole).

The Town Hall was the first building to applythe principle of terraces in 1847.The Grand Cahors Heritage Library conserves 40000 old documents.The railway bridge combines dressed stone withmetal girders.The cemetery has a great heritage value.D'un lieu à l'autre3 14 19th C. commissions inthe public and private sectorsDepartmental architects such asMalo or Rodolosse were givennumerous public commissions intendedto modernise the city, nowa Prefecture, and create new facilities:the theatre (1835), theTown Hall (1847), the maternitywing (1850), the Law Courts(1865), the primary teacher trainingschool (now the Tax Office,1885), the public library (now theHeritage Library, 1890), theGambetta Grammar School (nowthe Junior High School, 1898),the tobacco drying and packingplant (1905), the Gendarmerie(rue des Hortes, 1910), etc.In the military domain, Coëque-Verdier of the Army EngineeringCorps was the architect of theBessières Barracks (place Bessières,1877) where the 7th InfantryRegiment was based at onetime.From 1869 onwards, the railwaycompanies commissioned engineersto build the necessary infrastructure;firstly for the Cahors-Libos line (the façade of the original1869 station is now envelopedwithin the mediathèque), thenfor the Montauban-Brive line: therailway bridge over the Lot (engineersLantereis and Lacaze,1883), the new station (1884 -still in use), plus various technicalbuildings. The final railway installationswere built for the Cahors-Capdenacline, opened in1886: a viaduct, a tunnel and Cabessutstation.Sanitary installations, industrialand commercial buildings beganto appear, such as the Cabazatpumping station, the public baths(in the Moorish style), the CornExchange (architect Pinochet,1865, now the covered market),plus shop fronts, some of whichhave survived (rue de la Légiond'Honneur, rue du Portail Alban).At the same time as a municipalbye-law defined the regulationsgoverning the terraces along theboulevard Gambetta (E side),neo-classical buildings appearedon newly-opened streets (rueFoch).Squares and parks were embellishedwith commemorative statues,such as those of Léon Gambetta,at the head of the AlléesFénelon, or of Murat and Bessières,(entrance to the SquareJouvenel) who were both born inthe Lot and became Marshals underNapoleon.Funerary architecture was equallycreative: in the new cemetery,opened in 1812 beyond the northerndefensive wall, there is awide variety of beautifully-craftedtombs and mausoleums, displayinga multitude of referencesto previous styles.7 The 20th C.At the turn of the century, the architectEmile Toulouse, who specialisedin building schools andchurches, designed an interestingseries of houses reflecting theeclecticism and creativity of histime (rue des Hortes, rue AnatoleFrance, Hôtel Terminus….).Other villas dotted around thetown (rue Saint Georges, avenuedu 7ème RI, avenue Anatole deMonzie, quai Cavaignac) date

The Ludo-Rollès newspaper kiosk is an ArtDeco style building.The "Affordable Housing" estate in Cabessut withits Landes-style houses.The Cahors Henri-Martin Museum bears thename of a great pointilliste painter, an adopted sonof the Lot.The Resistance Museum commemoratesthe very active Resistance movement inthe Lot.from the "Belle Epoque" (lateVictorian/Edwardian period) butnone show the influence of theArt Nouveau style.After the First World War, a fewArt Deco style buildings appearedin Cahors, such as the Ludo-Rollès newspaper kiosk, a largewindow above the fountain in therue de la Barre, a butcher's shopin the rue Wilson and three façadesin the Badernes quarter.Two "affordable housing" estateslinked to legislation intended topromote such enterprises werecreated in Cabessut (1932) andthe rue du Groupe Vény (1939):the first inspired by the houses ofthe Landes, the second by the architectureof spa towns.New housing developments appearedin the 1950's, in particularthe St. Namphaise area beside thenorthern fortifications. The Valentréestate, located close to thefamous bridge, is an example ofhigh-quality blocks of flats fromthe 1950's. Urban developmentcontinued throughout the 1960's,70's and 80's, as on the Ste. Valérie,Croix-de-Fer and Terre-Rougehousing estates, where low-riseblocks of flats are surrounded byindividual homes. In 1997, thesculptor Michel Zachariou createdthe "ball-bearing clock" setin the centre of the Place St. Urcisse.The glass and concrete envelopeof the Mediathèque andthe new Conseil Général buildingraised on pilotis (piers) exemplifythe creativity shown by architectsin the second millennium.The Cahors Henri-MartinMuseumCreated in 1833, since 1929 themuseum of Cahors has occupiedthe former palace of the Bishopswho had signed up to the clericalreforms of the French Revolution.The courtyard is accessed via amonumental portal with threedoorways. The extensive archaeological,ethnological andfine arts collections are regularlythe subject of of temporary themedexhibitions. Since the 1970's,the museum has borne the nameof Henri Martin (1860-1943),one of the Third Republic's bestlovedbut most discreet painters.The museum has on show severalpreliminary studies for his largewall paintings executed in the Capitolebuilding in Toulouse, forthe Conseil d'Etat in Paris and theConseil Général du Lot. However,it is in the landscapes of Collioure,St. Cirq Lapopie and Labastidedu Vert that one can bestappreciate his original style, inspiredby Impressionism and Pointillism,his talent for capturing thefleeting moment and his determinationto give it permanent formso that it can for ever be enjoyed.The Resistance, Deportationand Liberation MuseumHoused in one of the entrance pavilionsof the former Bessièresbarracks, place de Gaulle, the Resistance,Deportation and Liberationof the Lot Museum opened in1992. Witnesses of that time andtheir descendants are present toanswer questions. There are threelevels, detailing the birth and developmentof the Resistance movementin the Lot, the deportationsand persecution thatresulted from this, the Liberationcombat and the story of the FreeFrench fighters from Brazzavilleto Berlin. Large numbers of writtendocuments, maps and photographs,plus objects such as a suitcase-radio,two containers for parachutedrops, items linked to theoccupying force, and individualweapons all help to illustratethese events graphically.

Take a stroll around the townThis numbered itinerary in 20 stages takes youpast key elements of Cahors' heritage describedin the preceding pages.The 20 stages :1 Vestiges of the Gallo-Roman Amphitheatre(underground car park)23Jesuit College and bell-towerStatue of Léon GambettaThe itinerary in letters corresponds to the locationof 13 heritage information panels, whichtell you about the main squares in Cahors andthe surrounding streets/buildings (in Frenchonly).The 13 heritage information panels :A Cours VaxisBCPlace MetgesPlace Rousseau4567891011121314151617181920Renaissance windows in the rue BergougnouxBaroque doorway, rue NationaleSt. Urcisse ChurchBall-bearing clock by Michel ZachariouRoaldès HouseCourtyard of the Archdeacon's HouseLa ChantrerieMonument to Clément MarotMediaeval houses in the rue DauradeCathedral of St. Etienne and cloisterCovered market and place ChapouPalais DuèzeSt. Barthélemy ChurchBarbican and northern fortificationsArc de DianeValentré BridgeFontaine des ChartreuxCar parksParking for coachesSantiago Pilgrims Reception (ex toll-booth)Public toiletsDEFGHIJKLMPlace Saint-UrcissePlace ChapouPlace de la LibérationRue FeydelPlace LafayettePlace LuctériusPorte Saint-MichelPlace BarreauAllées FénelonPont ValentréThe Secret Gardens of CahorsA document is available from the Tourist Officeor the Heritage Centre to help you explore theSecret Gardens.UNESCO World HeritageThe Cathedral and the Valentré Bridge areUNESCO World Heritage listed in the context ofthe Santiago Pilgrim Ways.

Listen to the story of Cahors….in the company of a qualified guide approved by the Ministry of Culture and CommunicationIf you'd like to know more about Cahors, City of Art and History, there is a programme of guided toursall year round, led by a Ministry of Culture approved guide. From the Arc de Diane to mediaeval houses,from the Valentré Bridge to the Cathedral, from the Jesuit College to early social housing, there are twothousand years of architecture and history for the visitor to explore. (Visits in French)The Group Service of the Grand Cahors Tourist Office in association with the city's Heritage Service canalso devise visits to suit your particular requirements, combining heritage tours with meals, river cruises,vineyard visits/tastings, etc….(English-speaking guides available.)Tell me the story of Cahors (for young people)There are opportunities throughout the year for young people to learn about local history. During theschool year, city tours, visits to the Maison de l'Eau centre, or special in-school sessions are provided, allbacked up with worksheets adapted to the children's ages and school requirements. During school holidays,there are short courses supervised by professionals, such as archaeology for beginners at Easter, variousaspects of the mediaeval city (for 6 - 12's) during the summer and workshops led by a craftsman inAutumn.Information and bookingGuided tours for adults (individual visitors). Grand Cahors Tourist Office, place Mitterrand, 46000 Cahors,tel: 05 65 53 20 65, fax: 05 65 53 20 74, contact@tourisme-cahors.com; www.tourisme-cahors.comGuided tours for adult groups. Grand Cahors Tourist Office, place Mitterrand, 46000 Cahors, tel: 05 6553 20 65, groupe@tourisme-cahors.frActivities for young people. Direction du Patrimoine, Maison du Patrimoine, 8, rue de la Halle, 46000Cahors, tel: 05 65 20 88 91, patrimoine@mairie-cahors.fr; www.mairie-cahors.frCahors belongs to the national network of Cities and Areas of Art and HistoryThe status of City/Area of Art and History is awarded by the Ministry of Culture to places whose localcouncils implement a policy of preserving their heritage and actively promoting it to the public. The Ministryguarantees the competence of guides and Heritage Activity Organisers, and the quality of theirwork.From Gallo-Roman vestiges to 20th C. architecture, the Cities and Areas of Art and History present ourheritage in all its diversity. A network of 149 Cities and Areas all over France provides this service.NearbyBastides du Rouergue, Figeac, Grand Auch, Montauban, Millau, Pyrénées Cathares, Sarlat, Vallées d'Aureet du Louron, Vallée de la Dordogne Lotoise and Vézère Ardoise have the "Art and History" status.Photo credits :Pierre Lasvènes : pp 2 to 13 - Rémy Charrue: front cover (bottom) - National Archives : front cover (top) - Cahors city photothèque - pp 2 to 13.Conception : Cahors City Heritage ServiceTextes : Emmanuel CarrèreTranslation : Sue BaxterGraphic design : charte graphique LM CommuniquerProduction : Cahors City Public Relations ServiceThanks : Etienne Baux and Patrice Foissac for proof reading, Grand Cahors Heritage Library for the 1619 document.Price : 0,50€At the place of which I tell,The dark green waters of the Lot do swirl and swellAs past tall cliffs and rocks their course they wind,Flowing down to meet Garonne's unswerving line.In short, I sing of Cahors in Quercy….( WITH APOLOGIES TO C LÉMENT M AROT, POET, C AHORS 1496 -TURIN 1544)