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LETTERS TO THE EDITOREnjoys ReadingDear Editor,I’ve received the last issue of hr:WATCHES in the mail this morning.Thank you! And as usual, it’s excellent.Well done!David F.South AfricaDear David,Thank you for your note. We are happyto hear that you received the new issueand are enjoying it.A Ranking InquiryDear Editor,Do you provide rankings of fine watches?And views as to the relative precision/accuracy of automatics? If not, wheremight you direct me? I am particularlyinterested in anything you’ve done thatincludes views on Hublot automatics.Peter K.Dear Peter,We don’t really ‘rank’ fine watches, althoughwe provide price points and relativeimpressions from our experts onwhat aspects of them make them worthcollecting. As far as automatics go, there isno difference from a manual wound watchas far as precision goes, provided you wearthe automatic watch regularly. If you havea collection of watches it is advisable tokeep them wound. You may want to considerpurchasing a good watch winder foryour mechanical watches.Hublot is a fine brand for automaticsand its reputation for unconventionaldesign grows with each watch that theindependently owned family companyproduces. We have covered severalHublot watches in previous issues of hr:WATCHES and you will also find someadditional information in this issue.Of Historical InterestDear Editor,Just received my June edition yesterdayand signed up recently for four moreyears!I enjoy reading about the history of abrand. I own several mechanical watches.If you have space in future editions ofyour magazine, I would appreciate addedstories on German mechanical watches.Keep up the great and interesting writing!Frank L.Atlanta, GADear Frank,Mechanical watches and the wonderfuldevelopments among them in Germany,Switzerland and elsewhere arewhat makes hr:WATCHES the magazineto read. Thanks so much for yourinput and we’ll try our best to includemore articles about topics you enjoy.Seeking a Daniel MinkAutomaticDear Editor,In the Feb. 2007 issue (page 51) Isaw a Daniel Mink watch: Collection1900 Men’s Automatic, Reference #1901MB51000. Please let me knowwhere / how I can see additional picturesof this watch and/or a store near San Antonio,TX that sells this watch.Jan F.TexasDear Jan,According to a Daniel Mink official, thewatches are not quite ready for market inAmerica, but will be soon. Call 800-221-6465 to find out more information or reserveone of the first pieces from this newgeneration of the brand’s signature line.Of Pocket Watches andCrystal BallsDear Editor,Can you please try with your experienceto identify this mechanical table watch? Itwas given to me years ago, they told me itis an expensive one. It has a guru’s pictureon the inside of the crystal ball. One (1o’clock ) should be the “Babaji”.Can you tell me if there are more like thisone or is it rather unique? And whateveryou can tell me, including the value.Thank you in advance for your answer, ifyou would be so kind to give it.Rosanna P.Dear Rosanna,There were a lot of after-market manufacturerswho took pocket watch movementsand encased them in crystal ballsas a popular decorative item. Dependingon the manufacturer of the movement,it could have some value but thatwould be the only way to assess it.Good luck!Breitling Wings AutomaticDear Editor,I would like to know why Breitling isnot producing any more of the model“wings automatic?”Yiannis T.Dear Yiannis,According to a spokesperson from Breitling,it’s simply a matter of keepingproducts current. The decision makersin Switzerland must occasionally discontinuesome models to make roomfor new products. Breitling suggesteddoing research online into other modelsby going to www.breitling.com.Good luck in your search and let usknow what else we can help you with!48 – On the Coverdeep historyStraight from the ocean’s floor,Romain Jerome’s Titanic DNA80 Years and Counting 74Tutima Celebrates Rich HistoryMarcello Giordani 76A tenor enjoys watch collectingNOA 89Nicola Andreatta creates new traditionsPaul Audet 92Swiss Time Design’s latest creations54into the deepWatches that pushlimits under the sea27 45 72DepartmentsAlso on the CoverAnna NetrebkoRussian soprano sports a watchand jewelry from Chopard, for whomshe now acts as an ambassadorInvesting 38A Minute With . . . 68Vintage Watches 78Market Place 80Winding Up 964 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 5


PILOT WATCHESskyhighBy Dean L. BumpPilot Watches Combine Function and FashionThe story of manned flight began on October 15th, 1783. Joseph and JacquesMontgolfier were the first men to construct and fly a hot-air balloon. Thismoment ignited man’s race into the atmosphere, which was dominated forthe first 130 years by the French. Only a few short years after the first hot-airballoon successfully rose into the sky, the French used tethered hot-air balloonsto gain tactical advantages over their enemies. The French scouts observed andrecorded troop positions from their tethered posts above, and relayed them totheir ground forces below, decisively winning the war with Austria. ➤6 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 7


PILOT WATCHESPILOT WATCHESAt the turn of the 20th century, anumber of aeronauts, as theywere called then, began at-It is recorded in the archives of Cartierthat one day Santos-Dumont askedhis friend and jewelry supplier, Louisoriginal, but in a size that bespeaks 21stCentury.As flight grew in popularity, it was re-tempting flight in winged airships.Cartier, to design a watch that couldally the military that could afford to pur-Many of these were gliders, which hadbe worn on his wrist while flying. Thischase or build these fancy new flyingno means of self-propulsion. How-would make it easy for him to glance atmachines. Due to the popularity and sta-ever, a few brave souls were attemptingthe time without any fumbling, and itbility of the two-winged plane designedflight with man-powered mechanisms,could be worn either under or over theby the Wright brothers, bi-planes becameand some even with engine-poweredsleeve of his jacket, depending on thethe model of choice through the ‘20’s. Asaircraft.day’s temperature. This square-shapedthe British, French, German and ItalianIn 1901, Alberto Santos-Dumont, thewatch, which nestled comfortably onnations developed air forces, watches be-son of a wealthy Brazilian coffee grower,the wrist, was the first watch known tocame increasingly important so that pi-won the Deutsch prize, a purse ofbe worn by an aviator. Today, the San-lots could gauge fuel supply, coordinate100,000 francs, and a prize from the Bra-tos is a classic in the Cartier lineup,and synchronize bombing scenarios, andzilian government, for circling the Eif-and for the 100th anniversary, a new,even calculate air speeds.fel Tower in his No. 6 airship. AlthoughSantos-Dumont did not advance aircrafttechnology to any great extent, he perfectedthe technique of flying airships.He also had the wealth that allowed himto develop, build and fly his aircraft.In fact, history records that heused his No. 9 airship as a regularcommuter plane betweenNeuilly St. Jamesand St. Cloud.As a wealthy man,Santos-Dumont wasin tune with the stylesand fashions of hisday, and althoughpocket watcheswere still the dominantwatch designfor men (wristwatcheswere consideredprimarilywomen’s jewelry),he found that pocketwatches were clumsyand not very reliable.larger, contemporary piece, the Santos100, has been unveiled which stillremains true to the proportions of theLegibility was the key factor in the dialsfor these first wrist watches due toconditions in an open cockpit, and assuch, black dials with white hands andwhite dials with black hands offeredthe best contrasts. AlthoughWorld War I was fought predominantlyin the trenchesof Europe, flight played agrowing importance withadvances in aviation in thelate ‘20’s, ‘30’s and into the‘40’s. The bi-planes of WWIwere replaced in WWII byairplanes with only one wingon each side of the fuselage.When orders went in foraccurate, robust watchesby the Royal Air Force(RAF), the Swiss companyInternational WristwatchCompany was requested tomake these watches to veryexacting specifications. TheMark IX was the first of IWC’smilitary watches, being producedfrom 1936 to 1944. Other updatedmodels followed (Mark X 1944-’48, MarkXI 1948-’84, Mark XII 1993-’99, MarkXV 1999-2005; Mark XIII and Mark XIVwere not produced due to superstitions).Of importance to the RAF was thatthese watches fulfill three criteria, knownas WWW (“watch” - time keeper, “wristlet”- worn on the wrist, “waterproof” -able to withstand water getting on thewatch, and even the watch being dippedin water). The success of these modelswas such that other air forces were eitherrequesting the same patterns and specs,or accepting them when offered by IWCor other watch manufacturers who mimickedthe IWC design.In 2006, IWC introduced its newestcollection of Pilot’s Watches, beginningwith the Mark XVI. Since these were allmilitary watches, they were usually devoidof polished surfaces so that therewouldn’t be any reflective qualities. So,too, the dial design remains true to theoriginal pattern and color scheme.As needs arise, necessity is truly themother of invention. Althoughthe “time writer” (later re-namedthe “chronograph”) had been inventedin the late 1800’s, pilotsneeded the ability to startand stop and restart theirtimers. In 1923, Breitlingsuccessfully producedthe first watches withan independent pushpieceto start, stopand reset the chronograph.Prior to this,independent monopusherchronographshad been controlled bythe crown, or by a buttonprotruding from thecrown.Eleven years later, in 1934,Breitling developed the secondreturn-to-zero push piece,giving chronographs their definitiveform. This invention madeit possible for someone to measureseveral successive short times withIWC’s Mark XVISantos 1008 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 9


PILOT WATCHESPILOT WATCHEScorded, the operator could “reset”members two-thirds of all U.S. pilots.In the 1950’s, Rolex had come upmodels lacked in originality theythe first pusher andallowing the operatorto “add” these times togetheras he started and stopped. Once hewas finished, and the last time was re-the watch to its “zero” position.Because of this advance, Breitlingbecame an official supplier to theRoyal Air Force. Orders for Breitling“timers” poured in, especially as WorldWar II began. However, the one pieceof architecture which would seal Breitling’splace in the horological heavens,especially for pilots, wouldn’t come forsix more years.In 1942, Breitling launched the Chronomat,the first wrist chronograph toAlthough the Navitimer went througha number of incarnations over the past55 years, today’s Navitimer is very trueto the original - with at least two extrabenefits: automatic winding and a nonreflectivesapphire crystal.On May 20th, 1927, a 25-year-oldpilot named Charles Lindbergh took offfrom Roosevelt Airport, New York, ina plane named the “Spirit of St. Louis.”His goal: to cross the Atlantic ocean,non-stop. Thirty-three-and-a-half hourswith the idea of the “tool watch,” awatch designed to facilitate a specificpurpose. In 1954, Rolex showedthree watches at the Basel WatchFair that would prove this to be themost prolific decade in Rolex history.Rolex presented the Submariner fordivers, the Turn-O-Graph for the office,and the GMT Master for pilots.How the GMT came about is ofgreat interest. The world’s largestairline at that time was Pan-Am. TheFor many years to come,Pan-Am supplied the GMTMaster to pilots as wellas executives within thecompany, making it oneof the most recognizedpilot watches in thecommercial industry.made up for in price point. Followingare a few of the best.In 1983, after having conqueredthe quartz analog market, and alongwith that conquest putting manySwiss companies to sleep, Seiko introducedthe world’s first quartzdrivenanalog chronograph withalarm. This movement, the 7T62,still alive and well today, allowedthe wearer to time events up to onealsobe fitted with a simple circularlater, he landed at his planned destina-carrier wanted a watch producedslide rule. This was a major step in of-tion, Le Bourget airport near Paris.for its pilots that would allow themvery little over the course of 25 years.fering pilots functionality. How-At that time, Longines was the officialto easily log Zulu Time, or UniversalIn the late 1980’s, the GMT Master wasever, it was the year 1952 whentimekeeper of the International Avia-Time Coordination, based on Green-updated with a hack function and theBreitling launched the pinna-tion Industry. So the watch brand fromwich Mean Time. So, Pan-Am contactednew Ref 16700 was introduced. How-cle of all flight watches,Saint-Imier was quick to log this historicRene-Paul Jeanneret, who was at thatever the biggest and best update cametheNavitimer.flight. Soon after, Longines and Charlestime Public Relations Director of Rolex.in the form of the GMT Master II, RefTheNavitimerLindbergh collaborated on a watchJeanneret worked closely with Pan-16710, within which ticked the newwas equipped withto be used by pilots which would ena-Am’s Captain Frederick Libby and to-caliber 3085, which could jumpa complete circu-ble them to determine exact longitudegether they came up with the conceptforwards or backwards in one-lar slide rule, alsoduring long-distance flights. Known asof a watch with an additional hour handhour increments. This devel-known today asthe “Hour Angle” watch, this was one ofrevolving just once every 24 hours andopment was invaluable sincethe E6-B flightthe first flight watches designed with aa bezel marked with those same 24it didn’t require the wearer tocomputer.Thispurpose.hours, which could rotate and alignstop the watch’s seconds handwatch allowed theThis watch had an enormous bezel andproperly with Zulu Time. The GMT Mas-when changing time zones, af-user to figure outan extra-large winding crown, whichter was also important because it waster he had synchronized it withall calculations nec-made it easy to wind, even with glovesone of the first Rolex models with thean audible signal.essary for a flighton. At 47.5mm across (due to its move-“Cyclops” magnifier above the date. TheIt is important at this junctureplan, including airment size), it was decades ahead of con-original Reference 6542, initially withto note that after Seiko inundatedspeed, fuel consump-temporary tastes. The large dial gave itplastic bezel insert, gave way to thethe world with inexpensive Japanesetion, time of flight, and to cal-good legibility, necessary since the dialRef 1675, with new metal bezel insert.quartz watches, beginning in 1969, theculate basic mathematical andincorporated more than just time.For many years to come, Pan-Am sup-Swiss industry went into a steep declinelogarithmic equations.Although Longines didn’t makeplied the GMT Master to pilots as wellregarding number of surviving compa-It quickly became so popu-“flight watches” its focus, it nonethe-as executives within the company, mak-nies and their piece output. As a result,lar with pilots that in 1956, it wasless offered one of the greatest contri-ing it one of the most recognized pilotonly a few new pilot watches came outadopted as the official watch of thebutions to pilot watch history 25 yearswatches in the commercial industry.in the 1970’s and ’80’s, incorporatingAOPA - the Aircraft Owners and Pi-before radar and 50 or more years be-The Ref 1675 had been made so per-some of the classic features, like dual-lots Association, which counts as itsfore GPS.fectly from the start that it changedtime, circular slide-rule, etc. What theseBreitling’s Navitimer10 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 11


PILOT WATCHESPILOT WATCHEShour at a time, as well as have an alarm Citizen Watch Company, now thethat doubled as a second time zone. world’s largest watch company, has beenAlthough for most of its life, the 7T62 offering what Rolex called “tool watches”movement ticked inside of traditionallookinganalog-clusterfor some time now. Citizen has offereddials,recently Seiko attacheda slide rule to the outsidebezel of the watch in orderto provide pilots with amore practical instrument.In an array of case finishes(steel, two-tone, all-gold),Seiko brought to the worldits new “Flight Computer”model in 2006.Within the Skyhawk family,Citizen has offered theBlue Angels, a variationdedicated to the famous,elite, aerobatic flying team.As an added bonus, this watch is also a flight watch, the Skyhawk, since the200-meter water resistant, something mid-1990’s, but has recently updatedmost pilot watches are not, since they’re it by offering it with Eco-Drive technology.Within the Skyhawk fam-designed for air-use and not water-use.The USD $450 price point for the steel ily, Citizen has offered the Blueversion on bracelet is appealing, too, and Angels, a variation dedicatedmakes it a watch that any budding pilotcan afford. (For the digitally-minded, batic flying team.to the famous, elite, aero-Seiko also produces another pilot’s watch All Skyhawk modelsusing an analog-digital dial (model offer an analog/digitalSNJ017) available for USD $495.)dial with three sub dials.The first, at 10 o’clock, indicates thetime in 24-hours that the analog handsare set at. The second, at 2 o’clock, is adedicated GMT clock, and gives ZuluTime in hours and minutes. Below theseis a sub dial which indicates the functionbeing shown within the digital windowsat the current time.With the digital windows, the wearercan easily access the time in 22 timezones, time events for up to 24-hourswith 1/100th of a second accuracy, timeapproaches with a count-down that canbegin as high as 99-minutes, and includes3 alarms which can be set to differenttime zones (for example home,GMT, and local time when traveling). Inaddition to all of these, the watch hasa perpetual calendar that will track thedays and months into the next century.The slide rule is easy to grasp thanksto four yellow notches that protrudegently from the bezel which facilitateturning, and the watch is water resistantto 100 meters. In its titanium caseand bracelet, the Skyhawk Blue Angelsis comfortable and light weight. Bestof all, this watch never needs a batterysince it is powered by any light source.A more recent contender in thearena of flight watches is Chase-Durer.This company was founded in themid-1990’s in Beverly Hills, California,and produces its watches in Geneva,Switzerland. From the outset, Chase-Durer wanted to produce reasonablypricedpilot watches, and has addedmany watches to its palette since itsinception.mechanical movements, all reasonablypriced for watches of theirconstruction. www.chase-durer.comConclusionA whole slew of other companiesoffer some type of pilot’swatch including such brandsas Oris, Blancpain, Omega,Tutima, Sinn and GlashutteOriginal. Though not aswidely produced asdive watches, flightwatches havenonethelessgained a resp e c t a b l eniche in thewatch industry,with moreand morec o m p a n i e sjumping onthe bandwagonevery spring.Lastly, with theThe Squadron Commander is a quartz-advent of GPS (Glo-based model using a Swiss ETA move-bal Positioning Satel-ment with an analog readout. Besideslites), the functionality oftime and date, this movement offersmost pilot’s watches haschronograph able to track 60-seconds,truly made them obsolete,30-minutes and 10ths of a second.save for GMT or UTC timeHoused in a 40 mm case made of 316Lcoordination for logging pi-surgical steel with sapphire crystal andlot entries. But the mystiquea 100-meter water test, the Fighterof owning such a 20 th cen-Command offers great Swiss featurestury piece of wrist machineryand looks for a Japanese price of $650.has not dimmed one bit, andCitizen’sEco-DriveChase-Durer has a number of pilotwatches available, and a quick tour oftheir website will show both quartz andfor the watch industry, whenit comes to pilot’s watches, thesky’s the limit. nChase Durer’sSquadronCommander12 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 13


Pilot ACCESSORIES“We are still educating the market interms of what to expect out of a flightbag,” Smith said. The materials, the designand the durability set quality flightbags apart from imitators, includingpockets laid out and accessible in a waythat true pilots will appreciate.For the Discovery, that means closedcell foam padding, full-sized compart-vice, sunglasses, calculator, kneeboardsand business cards and identification.It also has battery elastics for easy accessand navigation map holders thatcan store between six and twelve maps.It retails for $95. For more information,call 801-390-5501 or visit www.skyhighgear.com.ing much more than that. As evidencedby their success with the public, Ray-Banhas created a stylish look that becamepopular among non-pilots as well.If something succeeds in both formand function, there isn’t much reasonto tinker with its winning formula. In1937, the company developed the metalframe Aviator, and it’s still available to-ment flaps and a center compartmentwith double-zipper opening and paddeddivider. Special end compartments allowfor easy access to headsets and otherbulky gear as well. Smith, a pilot himselfsince 2001, explained that organizationis the key for pilots, who need to keeptheir eyes on their instruments. “Whenyou’re flying, the last thing you want todo is be digging for things,” he said.But that doesn’t mean you have to bea pilot to appreciate a good bag’s features.In fact, Smith’s cousin, an avidphotographer, uses the Discovery tocarry photography equipment. Paddedcompartments and a variety of pocketsmake flight bags useful for people whoneed storage for flying or for fun.The Discovery Flight Duffle has pocketsfor a Global Positioning System de-• Ray-Ban Aviator Large Metal RB3025. Aside from perhaps a bomberjacket, nothing represents the pilot “look”better than sunglasses, and no glassesare more popular than Ray-Ban. In fact,Ray Ban has been a part of pilot eyewearsince the company was asked to createglasses for the Air Force decades ago.“In 1937, American Air Force pilotsstarted to use Ray-Ban Aviators on theirmissions because of the brand’s outstandinglenses,” explained Vittorio Verdun,Vice President of Marketing forLuxottica Group North America. “Nowadays,all Aviators’ consumers continueto benefit from the product’s high qualityand durability.” That quality was originallyrepresented by the ability to protectpilots from glare while giving them aclear field of vision, but it ended up be-day with the Large Metal RB 3025. Trueto form, it has the same instantly-recognizablestyle that has kept it in bothcockpits and movies for decades.Verdun said that the look of its signaturepilot sunglasses have becomea big hit in films, as well as the actorswho star in them. “Ray-Ban Aviatorshave been the favorite choice of celebritieson and off-screen, and played majorroles in movies like Top Gun. Countlesscelebrities have been spotted with thisparticular style,” he said. Actors suchas Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and LindsayLohan have been photographed recentlywearing the Aviator.Whether a person takes to the sky, thesilver screen, or everyday life, many feelcomfortable wearing the Aviator’s traditionallook. Its frame is made of lightweight,durable metal and thelenses are scratch and impact resistant,while offering 100 percentUV protection. The “classic” lookincludes a gold frame and greenlenses, though other options areavailable.The Ray-Ban Aviator LargeMetal RB 3025 retails for $119.For more information, visit www.ray-ban.com. nBy John B. Holbrook, IIOne of the greatest names in jewelry is Cartier. Cartier enjoys a reputation for sellingonly the finest quality jewelry and accessories to a clientele of discerning taste and uncommonmeans. The illustrious Cartier was founded in Paris by Louis-Francois Cartierin 1847, and by 1874, Cartier’s son Alfred began dabbling in watches when he took over the companyfrom his father. It was Alfred’s dream that the company would one day produce its own mechanicalwatches. In fact, by the early 1920s, Cartier formed a joint company with Edward Jaeger(of the famed Jaeger-leCoultre company) to produce movements solely for Cartier. So whileCartier is certainly no stranger to the world of horology, their identity is clearly first and foremostas a producer of fine jewelry. But, in recent years, Cartier seems to be taking their watch designs16 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 17


CARTIERin new directions, marrying its jewelrydesign experience to its considerablewatchmaking experience – such is thecase with the Cartier Love Watch.To understand the story behind thenew Cartier Love Watch, referenceWE800331, one must first know thestory of one of Cartier’s most famousand enduring hand-made jewelry creations– the Cartier Love Bracelet. TheCartier Love Bracelet was conceived inthe summer of 1969 by a young Cartierdesigner named Aldo Cipullo who soughtto create a modern symbol of a committed,“locked-in” relationship. Extendingthe mythology of medieval warriorswho locked their wives in chastity beltsbefore departing for battle, Cipullo fashioneda bracelet designed in two piecesthat had to be bolted together to encirclethe wrist. Thus, the Love Bracelet andits accompanying screwdriver were born.Upon launching the Love Bracelet,Cartier stipulated firmly that no onecould purchase one for his or her ownwrist. To reinforce this “lovers only” message,Cartier presented the Bracelet to 25famous couples from the fields of entertainment,business, society, and sports.Each couple visited Cartier’s Fifth Avenueboutique where, in light-heartedceremonies, they locked each other upand formally exchanged screwdrivers.Famous couples of that time who woreLove Bracelets include Elizabeth Taylorand Richard Burton, Ali McGraw andSteve McQueen, Nancy and Frank Sinatra,Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti, andDyan Cannon and Cary Grant.Soon Hollywood and British royalty andbeyond were wearing Love Bracelets. Asphotos of celebrities wearing this distinctivegold band around their wrist appearedin newspapers and magazines around theglobe, people rushed to get their own LoveBracelet. Before long, a waiting list grew,fueling an even greater demand for theprecious, handmade pieces.Today, the Love Bracelet continues toadorn the wrists of such notable celebritiesas Angelina Jolie, Sofia Coppola, ScarlettJohansson, Sienna Miller, BrookeShields, Mary J. Blige and Spike Lee.The ongoing popularity of the LoveBracelet inspired the development ofadditional products in the Love motif,including the diamond-studded PreciousLove Bracelet in 1979, the LoveRing in 1983, Love Cufflinks in 1984,and Love Earrings in 1985. Now, for thefirst time, the Cartier Love collectionwelcomes the Cartier Love Watch.The first thing I noticed about theCartier Love Watch is how traditionallystyled it is – the decidedly feminine sizedcase measures just 23.2mm in diameter,and is constructed from solid gold (whitein color) with a weight of 23.7 grams.Most contemporary watch cases Isee, regardless of gender, seem tobe ever increasing in diameter. It isrefreshing to see a ladies watch withsuch delicate dimensions. Addingto the exquisite beauty and desirabilityof the piece are 18 diamondssurrounding the watch face, .5 caratsin diamond weight. Additionally,the face of the Cartier Love Watchfeatures six faux “screws” – cosmeticfeatures which link it to theoriginal Cartier Love Bracelet. Additionally,the crown located at three o’clock isdesigned to resemble a screw. A series offunctioning screws encircle the engravedcase back and hold it firmly in place. Attachedto the case is a lovely leather strap.The watch is powered by a battery operatedquartz movement – caliber 059.This is perhaps my only criticism of theCartier Love Watch. Undeniably, manywomen prefer ease of use and simplicityinherent to a watch with a quartzmovement, so the use of one here is inmany ways understandable. However,Each couple visitedCartier’s FifthAvenue boutiquewhere, in lightheartedceremonies,they locked each other upand formally exchangedscrewdrivers.many women are showing an interestin watches with mechanical movements,and I think it would have been wonderfulif Cartier took a risk with this pieceand equipped the Love Watch with mechanicalmovement. Perhaps such an optionwill be available in future iterations.The silver dial of the Love Watch is veryclean in layout and simple in execution.Black Roman numeral markers encirclethe dial, and provide high contrast againstthe heat-blued stick hands. Again, in keepingwith the rather simple overall designscheme of the watch, no date display, oreven second hand is present.The Cartier Love Watch (referenceWE800331) is a quietly elegantexecution of the Cartier Love designtheme in a watch. The watch is sureto be a hit with owners of the popularCartier Love Bracelet, but willalso be a welcome gift to any womanwho appreciates diamonds and theCartier name. The retail price of theCartier Love Watch is $10,800.00and is available at Cartier Boutiquesand Authorized Dealers - for more informationplease call 1-800- CARTIER orvisit www.CARTIER.com. Please note thatthe Cartier Love Bracelet is only availableat Cartier Boutiques. nJohn B. Holbrook, II is a freelance writerand photographer for HR:Watches, anda recognized authority in the world ofluxury time pieces.Back and front ofthe Cartier Love Watch18 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 19


CHRONOMETRO GONDOLOin review:Patek Philippe’sChronometroGondoloBy John B. Holbrook, IIWhen one considers the manufacturerswhich represent the upper echelon of“haute horology” one name springsinstantly to mind – Patek Philippe.As I’m sure most readers of HR:WATCHESare well aware, few monikers in the luxurywatch segment command as much awe andrespect as does Patek Philippe.The company began in 1839 when Antoine Norbert dePatek and Francios Czapek, both Polish migrants livingin Geneva, started Patek, Czapek & Co. Five years later in1844 Mr. Patek met the French watchmaker, Mr. Adrien Philippein Paris where the latter presented his pioneering stem windingand setting system by the crown. By 1845, the partnership withCzapek was dissolved, as he decided to leave the company and tocontinue his activity on his own. It was at this point that the companyname changed toPatek & Cie. It wasn’tuntil 1851 when Mr.Philippe became officiallyassociated withthe company thatthe name changed toPatek Philippe & Cie,S.A. Fast forward to1932 - Patek Philippe& Cie, S.A was purchasedby Charlesand Jean Stern, andto this day remainsa family-owned firmwith 3rd and 4th generationat its head:Philippe Stern, President,and Thierry Stern, his son, Vice-President.Basel 2007 saw a genuine surprise from the legendary manufacturerwith the re-introduction of the Chronometro Gondolo(Ref. 5098 P). Geneva last saw this watch manufactured by PatekPhilippe in 1927 - Chronometro Gondolo was the name of an entiresuite of watch models created by Patek Philippe explicitly forthe Gondolo & Labouriau - a jewelry and watch retail companyin Rio de Janeiro. For nearly 30 years, Patek continued to producethis piece exclusively for Gondolo & Labouriau. It featuredsquare and rectangular as well as tonneau and cushion-shapedcases. This is why Gondolo remains the name chosen for all currentform watches made by Patek Philippe in Geneva. As one canimagine, the reaction by the Patek collectors worldwide has beenoverwhelmingly positive since the Basel announcement of the returnof the Chronometro Gondolo.The first thing you will notice about the Chronometro Gondolois that the watch exudes a sense of purely classical style. Beginningwith the case, we see the classic tonneau shape being used inthe solid platinum case which measures 42mm in length, 32mmin width, and just 8.9mm inthickness. Affixed betweenthe 17mmcase lugs is a luxurioushandst i t c h e dalligator strap,matte black incolor. The strapis held togethervia Patek’s signaturelogo 14mmclasp, done in casematching platinum.Chronometro GondoloThe case has a waterresistance rating of 25 meters. The Chronometro Gondolo is designedwith a cambered sapphire crystal case back (held in placeby four polished screws) for observing the beautifully decoratedmovement.www.hrwatches.com August 2007 21


PILOTS WATCH HISTORYPilots Watch History:An AppreciationEric Engh CEO Oldwatch.comI was born into a Navy and aviation family soI learned about flying and the associated timepiecesearly in life. At the age of nine I first tookcontrols of my father’s Cessna 140 tail draggerand flew over the skies of the Dutchess Countyairport in upstate New York. My father was aflight engineer for American Airlines, but beforethat he had ridden the skies over the AtlanticOcean during the Second World War as a subchaser in a U.S. Navy PBY Catalina. The timepiecehe used in the sea plane was a Hamilton 4992b,Navigational Master, 22 jewel, pocket watch. Avery distant relative of mine was Bernt Balchenwho piloted the first plane over the South Polein 1929. Admiral Byrd gets most of the credit for theachievement, but Bernt Balchen was the pilot. A Wittnauer8-day timing chronometer pocket watch wasused for navigation purposes on that historic flight.Ihave always loved aviation and aviation watches, so when Iwas eighteen years of age I made the largest purchase of mylife, to that point, and invested in a Breitling Navitimer. TheNavitimer is arguably the most famous pilots watch ever made.Alberto Santos-DumontBreitling has a very long history in the innovation of chronographtimepieces, so it was natural for the aviation industry toseek out Breitling as an important supplier of pilots watches.In 1884 Leon Breitling opened a shop specializing in makingchronographs and precision counters for scientific and industrialpurposes that set the stage for Breitling to become oneof the most trusted names in chronographs. In 1915 Leon’sson Gaston created the first chronograph wristwatch. By 1939Breitling had become the official supplier to the Royal Air Force,manufacturing flight chronographs for all of its planes. In 1942the first chronograph with a circular slide rule was introduced tothe world by Breitling. It was called the Chronomat.The Chronomat was a great success for Breitling so it was agreat surprise to the watch and aviation world that they wereable to so superbly improve on the design with the introductionof the Navitimer in 1952. With this brilliant design apilot with a Navitimer was able to make all the needed calculationsfor a trip, and keep the current time. The Navitimerwas a wonderful design. It allowed a pilot to unclutter thecockpit cabin, something that is cherished by all aviators.In 1969 Breitling introduced the first ever self winding chronograph.This technical feat was a major breakthrough that everyother major watch maker has followed. Over the years Breitlinghas continued to update the very popular Navitimer, adding selfwinding, a twenty four hour dial, and date window. It wasn’t untilthe hand held computer came into being, that the Navitimercould be topped as a cockpit navigation aid.One of the most wonderful aviation watch stories is aboutthe evolution and acceptance of the wristwatch itself.Alberto Santos-Dumont of Brazil designed, built, and flew24 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 25


PILOTS WATCH HISTORYthe first practical dirigible balloons, demonstrating routine,controlled flight was possible. His many aerial feats made himone of the most famous persons in the world during the early1900’s. In 1904, while celebrating his winning of the DeutschAviation Prize at Maxim’s Restaurant in Paris, Alberto Santos-Dumont lamented to his friend Louis Cartier on how hard itwas to check his pocket watch during flight. Alberto desireda timepiece that would allow him to keep both hands on thecontrols and still easily gauge the time. The always inventiveCartier designed a watch with a leather band and a smallbuckle, to be worn on the wrist. Now the wristwatch was inventedmany, many years earlier, but was popular mostly withfashion-conscious women. The pocket watch ruled the dayamong men. Alberto Santos-Dumont was such a celebrity, heinspired other men to wear wristwatches. In Brazil AlbertoSantos-Dumont is hailed as the Father of Aviation, while therest of the world should celebrate him as the Godfather of theAlways linked: Aviation and Cartierwristwatch. By the way, the screw motif of the Cartier Santoswatch was inspired by the flush rivets on Dumont’s plane,again proving how deep and creative a thinker Cartier was.While Breitling was advancing the navigation side of aviationwatches, IWC was interested in solving the problems of the harshenvironment of the cockpit. The airplanes of the 1930’s werespartan, subject to great temperature variations, ever changinglighting conditions, vibrations, and powerful magnetic fields.IWC was, and still is today, an engineering firm first. The companyhas always been driven by precision and durability, so it wasordinary that IWC would tackle these problems for the aviationworld. In 1936 the Spezialuhr für Flieger also known as the MarkIX was introduced by IWC Schaffhausen as its first watch especiallymade for pilots. It was designed to survive in the cockpitsof the aircraft of the time. The 83-calibre movement used in thiswatch had an antimagnetic escapement and was shock-resistantto withstand the vibrations. With the many years of building highquality pocket watches, IWC used that knowledge as it tested andadjusted these timepieces at extreme temperaturesto ensure they would function correctly inthe extremely hot and then freezing temperaturesof aircraft in those days. The dial was big, bold andblack, with high contrast luminous hands, andlarge luminous numerals to ensure ease of vision.The watch was fitted with a rotating glass bezelwith an arrow. This allowed the pilot to measureelapsed time accurately as an aid to navigation.In 1940 IWC introduced the Big Pilot to the GermanAir Force. It was designed around an originalpocket watch movement. This watch was massive.It had a 55 millimeter diameter case, weighed 183grams and was rugged. The Mark X was introducedin 1944 followed by the famous Mark Xlin 1948 fitted with the 89-calibre movement andsupplied to British Royal Air force pilots.Many watch manufacturers have had a handin the evolution of aviation timepieces, but Breitling,Cartier, and IWC have to be at, or near, thetop of the list of major contributions in the air. ndewittJourney to the Center of the EarthDeWitt’s new models showcase siliciumIn four short years, the name DeWitt has become synonymous with originality andinnovation within the sphere of avant-garde luxury watchmakers. Now the brandJerome DeWitt began in 2003 has a new manufacture to call home as well as patentsand world premieres that reinforce why its dazzling success evolved so rapidly.DeWitt’s journey has been buoyed by an inner passion and creativity that should blossomfurther in its new premises in Vernier/Geneva. Spread across 1,500 meters – morethan five times its previous environs in Vandoeuvres – its workspace represents aconsolidation of a multi-pronged effort with equal weight devoted toproduction and research and development.Polishing, assembly, finishing and component decoration areamong the production duties carried out which complementwater resistance tests and quality control. But it is in researchand development that DeWitt’s true genius comes to lightthrough its conceptualization and achievement ofmovements and functions that has largely defined itspioneering spirit.“My goal is to usher in a new era of watchmaking,”DeWitt said. “The 18th and 19th centuries were veryinventive and there are many who agree that there hasbeen no real development since. Even today, referencesto the past are legion and there is a tendency to give amodern interpretation to past achievements.”DeWitt chooses instead to develop its own visionbased on its expert use of new displays, rare materialsand high technology.The high technology can be found on the second floor of the newfacility where micro-engineering solutions derived from ultra-modern machines are the order of the day. The rare materialsare equally important and make a real statement in DeWitt’s latestBy Steve Heisler26 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 27


dewittdewittthe shape of needles oricium treated withhexahedra on the dial.pure gold. The latterGold is expressed in ei-showcases an elegantther white or rose forcontrast between thethe watch case.sunset rose gold caseThe silicium dial it-and the yellow goldself seems suspendeddial representing thefrom a serrated flangesun at its zenith. Thewhich recalls theHora Mundi’s scarcitywheel of time thanksis underscored by theto 12 gold attach-dial’s structural com-ments, each bearing aposition, made fromletter on its internalthe same silicium sheetsurface.and barely two-tenthsDrawing the mostof a millimeter thick.attention is the impos-It, like the Siliciuming watchcase. Like theGrande Date, are therest of the Academiakinds of watches thatcollection, its bezelDeWitt was thinkingand middle part areof when he spoke ofcreations: the Silicium Grande Date andSilicium Hora Mundi, each of whichcontains the element that comprisesmost of the earth’s crust.DeWitt’s futuristic vision of horologicalmicro-engineering comes to full fruitionwith these models.“In my view, research is the leadingrole of a Manufactory,” DeWitt said.“It will allow us to continually explorenew territory and establish ourselvesin the 21st century with a strongerpersonality.”Explorations to the center of the earthwould be an appropriate theme for De-Witt’s signature pieces in the Academiacollection: The globe trotting SiliciumHora Mundi and the Silicium GrandeDate. Both are rendered with the brilliantsparkling material that makes up 28 percentof the earth’s crust,a poetic crystallizationof nature that is themost common elementon earth otherthan oxygen.In the case ofthe Hora Mundi,its pure silicondial offers up a fieryfirst impression. It isheightened by DeWitt’sreinterpretation of thecomposition with playson shades of glacier grayand black or a golden sparkledepending on the versionchosen.Its look is further defined bythe fusion of embedded crystals inDeWitt’smasterysculpted with the “imperialcolumns” motif.It is surmounted bythe DeWitt bezel with24 traditional hollows,protecting withboth strength and elegancethe CalibreDW 2021 self-windingmovement. Its 24time zones denotedby 24 capital citiesis a breakthrough inwatchmaking.It will be manufacturedin limited numbersin two versions:White gold twinedwith glacier grey/blacksilicium or rose goldaccompanied with sil-It remains pure to the nonconformistspirit that has guided the MaisonDeWitt since its founder, a directdescendant of Napoleon, infused thecompany with his unexpected andoriginal take on watchmaking.being “fascinated bythe slow and respectfullabor of love ofthe watchmaker forhis timepiece, whichthrough science andpatience becomes notjust his work, but anextension of his verybeing.”Like the Hora Mundi,the Grande Date’s imposingwatch casefeatures a bezel andmiddle part sculptedwith the ‘imperial columns’motif. It is waterresistant to 50meters and protects aself-winding mechanicalmovement with all28 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 29


dewittdewittfunctions adjusted by the crown. TheCalibre DW 1501 has hour, minute andseconds functions, a big date displaythrough a double window and the indicationof the days at 6 o’clock.It remains pure to the nonconformistspirit that has guided the Maison DeWittsince its founder, a direct descendant ofNapoleon, infused the company with hisunexpected and original take on watchmaking.DeWitt stunned the horologicalcommunity in short order in 2003 with ablend of curiosity and audacity. Relying onpioneering unexplored paths of micro-engineering,the manufactureenjoyed the presentationof the PressyGrande Complicationin2003, followedin2005 by thelaunch of anoriginal technologicalconcept,the AcademiaTourbillon Differential.The latter patented development wonthe Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prize“I would saywe need newideas more than areinterpretationof the old,”DeWitt said.that year in the innovation category.Another world first followedin 2006 when the TourbillonAcademia Force Constantwas introducedin Basel.Despite all theseaccomplishments,DeWitt doesn’t reston its accomplishments.Its artisticand architecturalcompositions, such as theHora Mundi that is extended by analligator strap with a new folding signaturebuckle, result from theongoing alchemy as thisyoung company makesa name for itself.And doing it all underone roof, in its expansivenew facilities,leaves the door openfor that much moretechnical and aestheticexploration as the 21st centuryproceeds.“I would say we need new ideas morethan a reinterpretation of the old,” De-Witt said. “In the movement, this meansreleasing energy as quickly as possible,transmitting it with a minimum of friction,ensuring the best possible regulationand accuracy.”As well as ensuring that DeWitt remainsdelightfully unpredictable yetcutting edge.“We can make our own decisions on adaily basis,” he said. “And if necessary,there is nothing to stop us from changingdirection.” nThe creative complications of DeWitt (belowand right)30 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 31


vincent berardDistinctly Vincent BerardCreations from the Compagnon de Temps:Vincent BerardCharts His Own PathVincent Berard’s artistic muse has inspiredhim to create as a painter and sculptor. But itis as a watchmaker, or more specifically, a selfdescribed“Compagnon de Temps” (Companionof Time) that his greatest gifts result.By Steve HeislerSince beginning the company thatbears his name in 2003, VincentBerard has developed timepiecesthat take his “horological art” to levelsone might not have expected fromthis former watchmaker-repairer whotrained in the Vallee de Joux and pursuedhis passion in La Chaux-de-Fonds.But to Berard, who was born in theFrench town of Villeneuve Les Avignons,his career as a craftsman progresses asit should since, as he sees it, art is art.“It is wrong to separate the variousarts,” Berard said. “This means that oneart feeds the other kind of arts. My basicinspiration can be for any way of art:painting results in colors and shapes,sculptures rather in shape and materials,watchmaking rather intechniques and precision.”His technical inventivenessand vision havehelped carve a well definedniche through creations,first with his QuatreSaisons Carriage Collection andalso with Luvorene I. The formerwas inspired from the constructionof a Strasbourg, France cathedral. Hecredits the watch with “reviving the pioneeringspirit that has empowered theSwiss watch tradition.”Its spirit comes through the grand feuenameled seasonal decorations found32 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 33


vincent berardvincent berardVincent Berard’s artistry from the sideat the heart of the dial opening. Theycome to life via the play of the quarterrepeater striking mechanism and theautomatons. A perpetual calendar andleap-year display occupy the upper halfof its sunray motif brushed gold doubledial that is sculpted in the shape ofa triskele.No matter the season chosen -- eachcase and silvered dial comes in green,yellow, red or white gold based on thetime of year – the hand crafted 18-caratgold case, measuring a whopping 91mm,is hard to miss.“Art provides the liberty to choose anyshape and size,” Berard said. “I have chosena size which is smaller than a clockbut larger than a wristwatch.”With the Luverene I, he elects tolet form reinvent technique throughhis collection of “fuseau de l’infini” or“spindle of infinity” wristwatches. Theaesthetic principles that helped definethe Quatre Saisons are obvious here aswell: a round domed case with a discreetbulge on the side and a transparent caseback protected by a cover.The collection’s first model measures42mm in diameter and 13mm thickwith a discreet lateral projection at 3o’clock and an open-worked dial. It revealsthe oscillations of a balance withscrews equipped with a Breguet overcoilbalance spring.Its mechanical movement, visiblethrough the glare-proofed sapphirecrystal case-back, is most recognizablebecause of the five spindle-shapedbridges standing out on five levels andevoking steps of a spiral staircase.“The spindle shape is a shape I use34 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 35


vincent berardvincent berard“Art provides the liberty tochoose any shape and size,”Berard said. “I have chosen asize which is smaller than a clockbut larger than a wristwatch.”environment in which hefully thrives.He termed the farmhousehis “heart of inspiration”and invited a visit.“Our team receives the energyof this place and thereforewe build our futurefrom here,” he said. “It’sthe nature, the silence, thebeauty of the highlands. Inaddition, it is a symbiosis ofwatchmaking and precision crafts-in many elements,strong relief when opening the foldedmanship. It is a watchmaking area, sur-allows [one] to break out to differenton lessons of the past while charting a pathwhether design orcase back.”rounded by plenty of small workshopslevels of liberty and creativity,” he said.to his own unpredictable future success.technical,” he said. “OnBerard’s enthusiasm for his craftso, as a result, there is a strong stimula-“Painting and sculpture leave plenty of“A high degree of [knowledge of] watch-one side, I have includedcomes through in each aspect he ad-tion to make premium timepieces.”liberty, where scaling down to small andmaking history is required to not simplythe spindle shape to break outdresses, but he is savvy about growingFor Berard, there is also a desire tohighly precise mechanical movementscopy what has been done before,” Berard[from] the mainstream designsthe brand in a business sense as well.allow his creative bent to push him inwith ‘haute decoration’ require pure pre-said. “My intention is not to follow theand on the other hand, the stair-Vincent Berard SA was acquired in Oc-ways that open the door for even morecision and a very small level of liberty.”mainstream but rather to take other di-case itself presents the natural waytober 2006 by the Timex Group. Thecreativity.As a “compagnon de temps”, however,rections, not indicated by the industry orof proceeding, meaning one step at awatchmaker has retained his own cre-“The combination of the various artsBerard takes liberties as he creates, relyingby fashion.” ntime. The combination of the philo-ative control while benefiting from thesophical aspect and design ends in acorporation’s marketing and distributionexpertise. Positioning thebrand with carefully selected vendorshas been the work of chief executiveofficer Herbert Gautschi.“It was [a] well planned ‘marriage’and all involved parties are very excitedto a bright future,” Gautschisaid. “A future which takes timeand with the objective to positionthe brand on its appropriate level.”Vincent Berard’s future is intrinsicallytied to his past and the regionhe has, for a long time, calledhome. His farmhouse in the Neuchatelregion, surrounded in LaChaux-de-Fonds by other likemindedwatchmakers, provides an36 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 37


vincent berardWhen Investing, KeepEmotion Out of ItOne of the most difficult disciplines is investing when it is ahobby or a passion. I am asked every day about watchesthat would be good investments, and although it soundslike a simple question, it seems to never have asimple answer. Collectors or investors have varyingtastes and desires that color the choices made.As functional art... this is a masterpiece.Eric Engh CEO Oldwatch.comThere are several types of collectors/investorsand the best way watches with the idea of upgrad-Many collectors buy and sellto successfully build a collection is ing their collection. This canto first understand what kind of collector/ be a very rewarding way toinvestor you are, or would like to be. build a collection if you haveVery few collectors of watches are pure a good eye and a good understandingof the market.investors. I currently have one client whopurchases watches every ninety days with If you always rememberthe idea of selling them after holding collecting is emotion, andthem for five years. At the five-year anniversarydate of the purchase, we decide be successful. When I go to ainvesting is rational, you canif the watches should remain in his collection,or should be liquidated and different watch to trade. At the beginningwatch show I always bring onewatches added. He has done very well over of the show I trade the watch andthe years. He is a pure investor with a collectionof watches. They could be widg-or watches, until I am finishedkeep trading the acquired watch,ets, as far as he is concerned. He identified for the day. Whatever watch orthe watch world as a place to invest several watches I have traded for, at thatyears ago, and has been successful at it. He time, is my gauge on how well I unisa stock broker by trade. Continued on page 40©2007 Citizen Watch Company of America, Inc.Grand Complication.Case, dial, band andmovement are craftedand hand assembled bymaster watchmakers.From cutting and handpolishing its case,to minutely finishingits precision parts, theexceptional beauty of aCampanola is born.wilson watch companyLawrenceville, GA770-995-2505Available atwestimeLos angeles, ca310-470-1388Perpetual calendarwith moon phase,chronograph, andthe delicate belltones of a minuterepeater. Handlacquered dial.Dual curvedsapphire crystal.Crocodile band.Case: 45mm.38 August 2007www.hrwatches.com


INVESTINGderstand the market and the people ining. We want it, so we have to justify it toOmega Speedmaster chronograph MoonLimited Supply, Unlimited Demand:it. At the last show I went to, I startedwith an $800 watch and finished fourhours later with nearly $2,000 worth ofourselves, or friends, or relatives, as eitherit adds something to us or it is a goodinvestment.watches for $850. We sold an OriginalPaul Newman Rolex Daytona for $12,500and a Rolex Triple Date Moon Phase RefThe Allure of Small Batch Watcheswatches.Having said all of that, I know what#6062 in an 18K case for $38,000. WeAlthough many people don’t think ofthemselves as dealers, they really are.you really want is: what is good to buynow and what trends exist. Brand namessold a solid gold Hamilton Ventura for$995. All of those watches would haveSome watches will never achieve popularity among the masses.They use the knowledge they have tocontinuously upgrade both their collectionand financial position. They havegrasped the emotion/rational balanceand will purchase watches they reallydon’t want, but understand the markethave done well over the last few years ...and size matters. The big watches of the1970s that you could purchase for littleor no money five years ago, are now veryhot. Complications are hot. Big chron-been excellent watches to purchase for acollector with an eye on investment. Todaythe Navitimer, Omega Speedmaster,Hamilton Ventura, and the Rolex Daytonahave more than tripled in value,while the Rolex Triple Date Moon PhaseYou won’t see them on people’s wrists, and mosthorophiles won’t even know they exist. Infact, just a few hundred people—in somecases, only a handful—will ever buy one.value. Every Monday I get calls fromseveral of my clients telling me aboutthe “score” they made at the local garagesale over the weekend. Most of thetime the stories are about watches theydo not want for their collections, somany of those watches are used as tradeto further their area of interest or theyare sold to other collectors.Most collectors buy watches becausethey like them, want to wear them, wantto look at them, and maybe have them increasein value. Collecting starts as eitheran attraction for a brand, or type of watch.Some collectors only want one brand ofwatch and collect every type of watch thebrand makes. Other collectors are interestedin case designs or complications.Some collectors desire to own a good representationof as many different brands asthey can afford. All these collecting strategiescan be successful and profitable aslong as the emotional side of collectingdoesn’t override the rational side.Dealers and watch manufacturers dependon the emotional side of the buyerfor a living. The basic truth is most of usdon’t need the next watch we are purchas-1969 RolexSubmarinerographs are very hot, and the vintagewatch dealers are scrambling to meet thedemand. Among new wristwatch makers,big and complicated is in and the biggerand more complicated the better.I went back in our records and lookedat several watches to see what we soldthem for at the turn of the century. Routinelywe offered early Breitling Navitimerchronographs for $900. We soldhas more than doubled. All are watchesthat still show no stunt in growth andwould be watches I would recommend tohave or hold in a collection where appreciationis valued.If you are a collector that doesn’t havethe disposable income to afford thesewatches, what can you do? I have threerecommendations for you. We have seenover the last few years a strong appreciationfor the smaller early Rolexes. Manyof them still can be acquired for under$1,000 and the market has been strongfor them. I also like military and aviationwatches from all manufacturers. Many ofthem can be purchased for under $1,000and the demand is strong in that sector.The third recommendation is specific.The Hamilton Pacer is a good timepieceto have in a collection. The Pacer is theinexpensive brother to the Ventura,but as the Ventura has been priced outof the hands of many, the Pacer has becomea good choice and it too has showna strong escalation in value.Investing in watches is fun and can beprofitable too, as long the emotional/rationalbalance is maintained. nAnd that’s just the way it’s supposed to be.You see, these aren’t unsuccessful products; quitethe opposite, in fact. They’re limited-edition pieceswith a very small run designed to attract collectorsand discriminating wearers. Usually, they’rea limited version of a very popular watch or aspecial creation from a successful watchmaker.But whatever their origin, they’re always hardto find and represent the very best in materials,style and quality.When a limited-run watch is an offshootfrom a popular brand, it needs to hold true tothe series, yet be unique enough to warrant specialconsideration. Hublot has turned heads withits Big Bang series, and their special editions stand outwhile remaining true to the Big Bang look and theme. Accordingto CEO Jean-Claude Biver, the company treats itsspecial editions with the same care as regular versions to preserveartistic integrity.“There are no differences between regular production and limitededition at Hublot,” Biver explained. “A limited edition must be executedin the full respect of the art.”Hublot has made special editions like the Big Bang Cappucino Gold for occasionslike Valentine’s Day, but it was the One Million Dollar Big Bang thatgarnered a great deal of attention. And with good reason: Representing morethan 2,000 hours of design and development, nearly 500 baguette diamonds, anda design that hides the entire structure underneath the jewels, this special editionHublot’sBig BangBy Michael Murillo40 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 41


SMALL BATCH WATCHESThe World’s First Atomic Solar Chronographis clearly a unique member of the BigBang family.Naturally, it’s also a hard-to-findmember. Biver said that the companycan only make about two such pieces ayear, and eight have been sold to date.But even those eight wearers won’t haveexactly the same watch: Hublot is carefulto make each Million Dollar Big Banga little different. “The Million Dollar BigBang is limited because we would liketo give that watch a real exclusive andSmall batch artistry from Jaquet Drozunique status,” Biver said. “Each onewill be made with a different movementand some differences in order to keepthe uniqueness of each one.”While he said that making popularpieces for the public is not that differentfrom making special editions for a collector,the latter does have its own challengesand rewards. “When it is as riskyas the Million Dollar Big Bang, it bringsa lot of tensions and a superb satisfactionwhen the job is done,” Biver said.Natalie Signoroni, who handles internationalcommunications for F.P.Journe, sees special creative opportunityin limited-run pieces.“In the case of Francois Paul, he is aninventor in watchmaking and does notlike to repeat what he has done already,”she said. “A smaller structuregives you the possibility to reactvery quickly and to create.” Signoronisaid that with largerproduction runs, inventorsspend more time managingpeople andless time involvedin the creativeprocess.The dedicationto creativity is an assetfor F.P. Journe, becausethe company was notstructured to mass producewatches. With just one watchmakerwho puts his creative stamp on everypiece, their productivity is limited: In2006, the company produced a totalof just 850 pieces.Signoroni said this production scheduleallows the company to focus on theirWatch by Richard Millewatches and come up with interestingenhancements. In one case, a fragileblack mother-of-pearl dial was used tomark a retailer’s anniversary. She alsosaid that, in 2004, F.P. Journe decidedto start using 18k red gold for its mechanismsinstead of brass—a difficult andexpensive decision, but one the companycould afford to make.Jaquet Droz once made awatch for a paleontologistthat included a piece ofdinosaur bone.While F.P. Journe is proud to makewatches in small quantities, Signoronisaid that true horophiles are not automaticallyimpressed with the word “limited”anymore. “It’s very trendy to have‘limited pieces,’ but the real collectorsContinued on page 40The Oceanus Difference•Precise Timekeeping - The ability to receivetime-calibration signals that synchronizetime and date directly from any of fivetransmission stations located in NorthAmerica, UK, Japan (2) and Germany•Hypoallergenic Titanium Case and Braceletwith a Scratch Resistant Coating•Solar Powered Rechargeable Lithium Battery•Tide Indicator•1/20 Second Chronograph42 August 2007www.hrwatches.comFor Your Nearest Location or to SHOP-AT-HOME:www.oceanus-us.com 800.348.3332 tourneau.com


SMALL BATCH WATCHESare aware and educated,” she explained.In fact, F.P. Journe officials believe thatthe true test of a watch’s value is to seehow it performs at auctions.Of course, some watches will probablynever make it to auction, becausethey were made especially for one customer.Jaquet Droz once made a watchfor a paleontologist that included aComplicationsextraordinairefrom Jaquet Drozpiece of dinosaur bone. Another customerwanted a watch that gave the sures, and he gladly paid more thanwearer less information that a normal $100,000 for the piece.piece. Brand President Manuel Emch While not all of its watches are thatexplains:unique, the company specializes in exclusiveand original watches, and Emch“[The customer] said, ‘I love yourwatches, but I still don’t see what I’ve said that requires special marketing andbeen dreaming of. I don’t want a watch education for discerning customers. “Itthat tells time too specifically. All I want takes time to explain to the customeris a watch that permits me to dream and what makes it more unique,” he said,get out of my business—escape from noting that some Jaquet Droz’ watches“All I want is a watch thatpermits me to dream andget out of my business — escapefrom the daily pressure.”Recreating ExcellenceEterna’s New Models Combine Beauty and FunctionWith its two newest additions to a long line of fine timepieces,Eterna clearly sets the bar high as a force to bereckoned with in the Swiss watch industry.The pioneer company that first began makingwatches in 1856 went through some uncertaintimes once it was purchased by an investor inthe 1990s, according to Brand Manager AndreasTobler. Its other half, ETA, was purchasedby the SWATCH Group.By Steve Heislerthe dailyp re s s u re .’ ”The solutionwas to createa watch that didn’thave a second hand,or even a minute hand.The watch simply notedthe hours as they passed, andfor a busy attorney, that wasall he wanted. “He said, ‘This isthe watch I’ve been looking formy entire life. My whole life ismeasured in minutes and seconds,’”Emch said. Jaquet Droz’ creative solutionrelieved him of his daily pres-take months to create. “Most [customers]spend two hours in our stores, andthey take the time to understand thebrand.” He also said that boutiques caterwell to customers’ needs, and allowfor more brand visibility.While the style and rarity of limitededitionwatches vary from company tocompany, a strong market exists forsomething a little different from whateveryone else is wearing. Hublot’s Biverbelieves that will continue into the future.“I see no change,” he said. “As longas we have passionate people to makethem and passionate people to buythem, we will go on.” nThat’s how Eterna lost a lot of its identity,” Toblersaid as he sat in his office in Switzerland.“Then we started to find our identity back bydeveloping our own movements. For us, it was likecoming up from nowhere.”All of the new hiring, equipment purchases and infrastructuredevelopment are paying huge dividends now as Eternaproudly unveiled a new movement as part of its Eterna MadisonLimited Edition watch in Basel. The Limited Edition thatdebuted at the watch fair builds on the success of anotherEterna masterpiece, the Vaughan Big Date.The Limited Edition has been produced in a total of 75pieces and utilizes the Eterna caliber 3500 movement. As theheart of the watch, it is found within the arched tonneau case.Following the Eterna 3030 movement, it is the second entire44 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 45


ETERNA’S NEW MODELSself development of recent Eterna history.Its central seconds and 28,800semi-oscillations per hour are characterizedby a beautiful bridge construction.The escapement’s centralizationis visually set off through a transparentsapphire glass case back.As Tobler pointed out, it’s beautiful—and it works.“Eterna comes from what we call [theschool of] rational innovation,” Toblersaid. “There’s a lot of emotional innovation,nice things and complications,tourbillons where it’s more about theart. Eterna’s background is more the industrialthing.”Oh, there’s still plenty of beauty andaesthetic value to take in here. But it’s amodest elegance with a discreet and classicundecorated polished rose gold orwhite gold watch case with arched andscratch-proof sapphire glass. The dialvariants in anthracite and silver coupledwith the Dauphine hands result in clearcut lines and a functional elegance.The watch includes one feature thatalso makes it easier to wear: winding pinionsof the manual winding device areequipped with ball bearings. The reductionin friction and increased stability ofthis new type of mechanism are appreciatedwhen winding up the watch.“You can really feel it, since the frictionis less, you don’t need so muchpower to wind up the watch. This is afirst release of this technology and thespecial thing about ceramic ball bearingsis you don’t need to lubricate them.It adds an element of quality.”That’s the case as well with Eterna’sVaughan Big Date. Its black crocodilel e a t h e rstrap withp o l i s h e dstainlesssteel foldingclasp may drawthe eye, but it’sthe ball bearingsthat really allow itto operate smoothly.“The positioningwheel of the date is on ceramicball bearings,” he said.“Everything you have is very stable.”The Big Date’s stability is but one aspectof this watch that continues a lineof elegant men’s watches. It follows timepieceslike the Eterna Centenaire of 1956and the Eterna-Matic 3000 Dato of 1962.The movement in those watches, the Caliber1504, was the model for this movement.The new Eterna 3030 is part of theautomatic movement with big date displaythat is the slimmest in its class.Its cambered big date display featuresthe date in large numbers on two separatediscs. Such a two-disc system allowsfor the use of larger numbers,thereby increasing its legibility. In thecase of the Eterna 3030, a convex profileon both sides is visible in the form ofa lens. Those two discs blend seamlesslyinto the movement’s cambered surface.The fast and straightforward methodof setting the date also makes the watcha favorite. Its fast-acting calendar functionmeans the date will change at midnightwithin one second. Unlike manyconventional movements, the switchmechanism allows both the time anddate to be adjusted at any time.Vaughan Big Date“It’s like doing some old fashionedcraftsmanship but with the high technologyof today,” Tobler said. “The discjumps, it doesn’t move slowly and thenyou have a new date.”Both the Vaughan Big Date and theEterna Madison Limited Edition possesselements that make them worththeir over-the-counter price. With theBig Date, it’s the Caliber 3030 and itsmechanical automatic movement, whilethe Madison features the Caliber 3500mechanical hand-wound movement.In either case, they’re timepieces thatboldly illustrate that Eterna as a brandis growing and making a definite statementabout its place in the industry.The watches’ long life cycle and thefact that each part can be removed andreplaced for ease of maintenance makethem attractive in 2007.“There is a certain heritage but we’veimproved it a lot,” Tobler said. “It’s notsomething you buy and then throwaway the next day. It’s something thatyou have for your life.” n46 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 47


Deep HistoryBy Dean L. BumpStraight from the ocean’s floor,Romain Jerome’s Titanic DNAWhat is it that fascinates people about tragedy? Is it that it puts us intouch with our own mortality? Is the fact that death shows no partialitytowards your age or station in life? Or do we simply end up feeling lucky orblessed to be among the living? Whatever it is, tragic events fascinate andsometimes even consume those who gaze at them from a vantage pointthat is either a distance in miles or a distance in time from its occurrence.Perhaps the most intriguingaccident of the 20th Century isthe sinking of the RMS Titanic.This luxury liner was designed by WilliamPirrie, Thomas Andrews and AlexanderCarlisle, and constructed in theshipyards of Belfast’s Harland & Wolff.With funding from JP Morgan’s InternationalMaritime Marine Company,the Titanic and its sister ships, the Olympicand the Britannic, were built usingthe most modern technology available,and decorated with the most luxuriousappointments possible.The technical design and constructionwere so advanced that the Titanic wasdubbed, "The Unsinkable Ship" by themagazine, The Shipbuilder. She hadadmirers within the shipyard and evenamong Harland & Wolff’s competitors.Numerous safeguards were put in placeto ensure that any maritime accidents,such as running aground or makingcontact with ice, wouldn’t jeopardizethe ship’s buoyancy or the lives of itspassengers. She was built with a doublebottomed hull with sixteen water-tight compartments. Up to four of thesecompartments could be flooded at thesame time without risking the ship’sbuoyancy.Setting sail on April 10 th , 1912, thepassenger manifest read like a veritable“who’s who” of turn-of-the-century industrialists,financiers and Anglo andEuropean aristocracy. Denver millionaireMargaret “Molly” Brown, industrialistBenjamin Guggenheim, and Macy’sdepartment store owner Isidor Strauswere just a few of the First Class passengerslisted. But the Titanic catered to allclasses so there was space reserved forpassengers registered in 2nd and 3rdClass in the lower aft cabins, as well.Also on board were the ship’s designers,who perished in the tragedy.Numerous ships had warned abouticeberg sightings, but the Titanic stillpressed on, cruising at an incredible20.5 knots. At 11:40pm on the nightof April 14 th , 1912, the Titanic grazedan iceberg, which ended up producing aseries of gashes along the ship’s seamson the vessel’s starboard side, fillingfive of the chambers. As the bow filledup with water and started to plungedownward into the icy Atlantic waters,the stern was lifted high out of thewater. Surviving passengers say thatthey saw the boat literally break in half,just before it sank.In 1985, Robert Ballard, an oceanographerand marine biologist withWoods Hole Oceanographic Institution,discovered the grave of the RMSTitanic 12,536 feet below the surface.What is more is that, just as passengershad claimed, the bow and stern hadsplit and Ballard found that they were48 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 49


TITANIC DNATITANIC DNAning seconds hand is positioned at nine o’clock, which harklying2,000 feet apart from each other, with the ship’s debrisspread out over half a mile on the ocean floor. Dr. Ballard keptthe location a secret for a year until he could return. A yearlater, using GPS navigation, he descended in the DSV Alvinand made numerous submarine dives. On his final descent, heleft a plaque on the Titanic paying tribute to the 1,500 whoperished in the calamity.Of course, treasure seekers with the means and finances dideventually show up, too. Over 5,000 artifacts have been broughtup, including a 17-ton section of the hull, recovered in 1998 byRMS Titanic Inc., which was awarded ownership and salvagingrights of the wreck in 1994.Deep WristoryThis year, Romain Jerome has released its first installment,“Legends of the Sea” collection called “Titanic-DNA”, (whichhr:Watches covered, in brief, in our April/May edition). Whatmakes these time pieces unique is that Romain Jerome pur-chased a sheet of steel from the actual wreck from a professionaldiver who brought it up prior to 1994, the year in whichRMS Titanic, Inc., wasgranted exclusive rightsto the salvage of thewreck. Also purchasedwas some of the coalthat had been recoveredfrom the Titanic’s hold.One of the initial challengesthat had to beovercome was that therusting steel needed tobe stabilized from rustingany further, since rust is one of the enemies of watches.The other challenge was that of neutralizing any allergenicpossibilities, since the steel of the time also contained nickel,a well-known allergen in the watch industry. Mixing the metals,Romain Jerome had the watches’ cases forged from titanium,composite and various other metals, depending on themodel, like platinum, rose gold, stainless steel, ceramic, etc.,and mixed with the Titanic’s steel.This year’s model will be a fullyrusted,non-stabilized Titanic-DNAwatch sealed in a transparent box.The box will contain Argon Gas,which prevents the watch fromrusting any further.After contacting Harland &Wolff in Belfast, Romain Jeromehad the shipyard smeltsome of the old rusted steelwith that of the new steel be-ing used in the construction ofships’ hulls today, and by infusingwatch parts with pieces ofthe original steamer, the brandhas given the metal new life.Essentially, Romain Jerome isoffering horology fans a chanceto wear a piece of history on the wrist, or, in the pen of thisjournalist, “Wristory.”In order to focus one’s gaze solely on the watch, Romain Jeromemounted the watch’s head on a simple, flat rubber strapwith tang buckle. Then it made the dial using some of the securedcoal, giving it a deep black textured dial. The hands arereminiscently shaped like anchors, and a continuously-run-50 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 51


TITANIC DNASoccer’s Ronaldo and Romain Jerome’s Yvan Arpaens back to the look of the gauges on a ship’s console. Thistimepiece almost looks like it fell off the bridge of the world’smost famous shipwreck.Beneath the blackened face beats the heart of a LaJoux-Perret8235 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve.This re-named company alters the very durable workhorse,the ValJoux 7750, by removing the chronograph and retainingsolely the seconds and time-keeping functions. The look ofthe dial is very much like a classic hand-wound Unitas 6497,but with the wearing-ease and sturdiness of ValJoux’s mostfamous automatic.Also of interest is that the watch case’s back has a medallionthat is hand-engraved by Kees Engelbarts, one of the industry’stop engravers. This Dutchman, now living in Geneva, hasbeen commissioned by various high-end Swiss watch brands toengrave various dials and movements, and his works are true“works of art” by a man with a passion. If the owner wishes, hiswatch can be personalized by Kees after the purchase.To commemorate Harland & Wolff’s centenary anniversaryof the ocean liner’s sinking, Romain Jerome has limited eachcase combination (whether with steel, gold, platinum, withdiamonds, etc.) of this watch to 2,012 pieces. However, therewill be a special ultra-limited version produced in only 99pieces, and these may be one of the most interesting watchesin history.Forbidden FruitRomain Jerome has decided to offer one “concept” watch eachyear. This year’s model will be a fully-rusted, non-stabilizedTitanic-DNA watch sealed in a transparent box. The box will containArgon Gas, which prevents the watch from rusting any further.The watch will be guaranteed to work forever - unless itsowner breaks the large “Warning!“ label and opens the box. At thispoint, the watch will be subjected to oxidization, and the brandwill not guarantee any part of the watch indefinitely. It could workfor a week, a day, or a lifetime. And, at a price point of US $14,600,the watch is surely a temptation for any would-be collector.Why is this whole concept so intriguing? Rust has alwaysbeen the watch industry’s enemy. Now a watch companywants to incorporate this ignoble trait into a watch with noblemovement and case materials. It truly is a historical and horological“riddle wrapped in an enigma,” proving itself to be acontroversy. Romain Jerome is a brand that will be heard of,that much is certain.What Yvan Arpa, the brand’s CEO, learned at Sector, wherehe pioneered that brand’s “No Limits” highly successful marketingcampaign, and from Baume & Mercier’s design successes hasserved him well. This first offering of the “Legends of the Sea” collectionis bound to be the most sought-after. Also, unlike the previousgolf-inspired “Hole In One” watch, the “Titanic DNA” watcheswill be available worldwide, driving Romain Jerome’s name furtherfrom Geneva than at any time previous to this launch.On May 21st, 2007, famed Brazilian soccer player RonaldoLuis Nazário de Lima, or simply, Ronaldo, as he is known inthe game, received the first of the Romain Jerome Titanicwatches. Mr. Yvan Arpa has been a big admirer of Ronaldo foryears, and met Ronaldo in Milan to present him with this firstpublicly-available piece.To be sure, Romain Jerome’s Titanic-DNA watch is a watchthat will be talked about. Like any person, building or eventwith “character,” this watch will be spurned as pure marketinghype by some and praised as marketing genius by others. Onething is for sure, no one will be ambivalent about the Titanic-DNA watch. History’s pages are penned with man’s triumphsand tragedies. Romain Jerome has taken one of the 20th Century’sgreatest maritime tragedies and incarnated it into oneof the 21st Century’s great horological triumphs. n52 August 2007www.hrwatches.com


IntoTheDeepWatches that pushlimits under the seaFor years, watchmakers have tried with all their might and mentalcapacity to solve one of the age-old challenges facing horology. No,I don't mean how to create a lubricant-free watch movement,but, rather, how to keep one'swatch on - and water out -while playing with therubber ducky, splashingaround with the kidsin the pool, or evenwhile scubadiving.by Dean L. Bumpwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 55


DIVE WATCHESDIVE WATCHESThis quest for a waterproof watch beganof Rolex’s competitors. A rotating bezelin the early part of the 20th Century. Three(not initially ratcheted) was placed onpioneering models which stand out in thethe outside of the crystal which could beforefront of this effort are the following:turned and set at the start of a dive inIn 1926, Rolex produced the Oyster,order to keep accurate track of the timea round watch with only two seals (thespent underwater. This was especially im-crown and bezel). This was the first ofportant since a diver’s tank could onlythe “waterproof” watches. Historically,hold a certain amount of air, and thisit is probably the Oyster which sparkedfeature allowed the wearer to gauge howthe race to make waterproof watches.much time remained before he needed to(This term is no longer allowed to beascend. Another piece of architecture fea-used in the United States because everytured on this watch was the now-com-watch leaks at some pressure. Therefore,mon flip-lock clasp, which prevented thein North America, watches must say,clasp from opening accidentally. In ad-“Water resistant to __ meters,” or “Wa-dition, a bracelet extension, now com-ter resistant to __ bars.” A bar equals themonly referred to as a wet-suit extensionpressure every 10 meters under water.)by the industry, was integrated into theIn 1932, Omega released the Marine, abracelet and placed next to the clasp. Allrectangular watch (in fashion during theof these were Rolex inventions that areArt Deco period) that slipped inside a rec-now shared by many watches.tangular casing to keep water out. ThoughOne of the most desirable aspects ofnot a huge commercial success, it was ablethe Rolex Submariner is that it hasn’tto maintain its water resistance at 100+changed all that much in more than 50meters. Omega sold it as Omega, Omega-years. There have been subtle improve-Tissot (in markets where Omega was tooments over time, most recently solidexpensive for the local clientele), andmade versions for Cartier and for Tiffany.Rolex SubmarinerIn the early 1930’s Cartier produced awatch for the Pasha of Marrakesh whodesired a watch to swim in. The origi-The Rolex “Submariner”of 10,335 feet (3,150 meters) in 1953.nal watch that was commissioned wasThere is widespread debate as to the of-The watch pictured surfaced without anya tank watch. Today, Cartier continuesficial launch date of the Submariner duemoisture inside the casing. During theto produce the Pasha, but it is producedto Rolex Watch Company experimentingsame year, Dumas and Cousteau, now leg-only in a round case.with different models in the early 1950’s,endary divers, recorded a full-length fea-Many other companies tried to get inbut the general consensus is that Rolex in-ture film titled, “Le Monde du Silence,”the water-watch game, but a real “divetroduced the Reference 6204 at the Baselwhich featured a Rolex that looked verywatch” in the manner we think of today,Watch Fair in 1954. Those in the know aremuch like the Submariner so well knownwasn’t developed until the 1950s. Thisfamiliar with the image of a Rolex strappedtoday (although it didn’t say “Subma-article is dedicated to looking at some ofto the outside of the bathyscaphe pilotedriner” on the dial).the pioneers in this ever-growing niche,by Professor Auguste Piccard and his son,The features of this landmark model1926 Rolex Oysterboth mechanical, and quartz.Jacques, when they descended to a depthwere bound to spawn imitators among all56 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 57


DIVE WATCHESDIVE WATCHEScenter links and end-pieces, but thedial, bezel and head are only slightly differentfrom the original model. If “imitationis the sincerest form of flattery,”it is worth noting that the Rolex Submarineris the dive watch most often copiedby other watch brands.For more information, go to www.rolex.com.cepted the challenge. Interestingly, later,when Blancpain desired to distribute theirdive watch in France, Lip accepted thedistribution rights, even including theirname on the dials of several models.At that time, fifty fathoms (fifty 6-foot soundings) or 91 meters (300 feet),was considered the maximum depth towhich a diver could descend withouttether, so Blancpain named their modelThe features required by professionaldivers that Blancpain brought out with itsrevolutionary dive watch were these: automaticwinding, a uni-directional rotatingbezel, a large seconds hand, a screw-inback, a bubble crystal thick enough towithstand the pressures exerted on themat these incredible depths, and highly luminoushands and numerals.Interestingly, this watch was alsoBlancpain “FiftyFifty Fathoms.worn in “Le Monde du Silence,” by Dumasand Cousteau, and al-Fathoms”In 1952, two French naval officersthough not marketed aswere instructed by France’sstrongly as Montres Rolex’s. . . automatic winding, a uni-Ministry of Defense and theSubmariner, it, nonetheless,gained internationalFrench Navy to launch an elite directional rotating bezel, a largewater unit called “Les Nageursseconds hand, a screw-in back, aattention.de Combat,” or Combat Swimmers.This became a highly se-bubble crystal thick enough toToday, the Fifty Fathomsis a core model in thelective, top-notch unit within withstand the pressures exerted on them Blancpain product range. Inthe French Forces. They requireda rugged, water resist-anniversary, with a 40mm2003, it celebrated its 50that these incredible depths, and highlyant watch that could perform luminous hands and numerals.version with a combinationflawlessly under the extremerubber-and-steel bracelet.circumstances to which combatdivers might be subjectedand, upon looking at the industry, saw nonotable candidates at that time. So, determinedto have the right equipment madeto their specifications, they approachedLip, then the number one watch supplierin France, to see if they would fulfilltheir request. Lip declined, so insteadthey turned to Blancpain in Villeret, Switzerland,and the engineers there gladly ac-Officially launched in 1953, the FiftyFathoms gained notoriety among elitemilitary dive teams around the world,even being worn by the U.S. Navy Seals.Blancpain has taken credit for realizingthe modern diving watch, and rightly so.For Basel 2007, Blancpainintroduced its newest iteration,a 45mm, 3-barrel, 6+ day powerreserve version, sure to please the mostdemanding watch lovers. For more information,go to www.blancpain.com.Omega“Seamaster”The Omega Seamaster celebratedits 59th anniversarythis year. Originallylaunched in 1948, it wasa swim watch, and oneof Omega’s first watcheswith automatic winding.In 1957, the Seamaster300 was released, whichguaranteed a water resistanceof at least 200 meters.It had many of thetraits divers had come toexpect on a dive watch:reliable automatic movement,turning bezel, etc.Today, the Seamasterhas upgraded its lineby enclosing within itscase walls Omega’s Caliber 2500 withCo-Axial escapement. This movement- arguably the world’s best - only needsservicing about every 8 to 10 years.Contrast this with all other Swiss-leverescapement-based movements, whichneed servicing every 3 to 4 years, andyou have an almost no-hassle piece ofmachinery for the wrist.Omega has nicely capitalized on Jamesfrom the watch mentionedabove, and the Casino RoyalePlanet Ocean, producedin a limited run of 5,007pieces with “007” on thesecond hand).The Seamaster is waterresistant to 300 meters,and has a manually-operatedhelium release valveon the side of the case at10 o’clock. This releasevalve, developed by Doxaand Rolex and now usedby many watch companies,serves to balance the pressuresinside and outsidethe case if one goes downOmega Seamasterin a diving research vessel.Beyond 250 feet, oxygenbecomes toxic due to the highBond wearing the classic navy dial and pressures at such a depth. So, within suchmatching navy bezel in the last few 007 a vessel, the air is helium-saturated. Becausethe helium atom is the smallest, itmovies (previously, both Rolex and Breitlingoccupied the spot in different films). will seep through the watch’s seals underThe navy dial/bezel combination is so much the high air pressures in this environment.associated with Bond that it has come to Over a few days, helium will continue tobe called “the James Bond watch” among seep into the watch until the air pressurecollectors. Last year Omega released 2 inside the watch (initially surface air pressure)equalizes to the air pressure in thelimited edition models dedicated to 007(the James Bond Seamaster, with 10,007 environment. This becomes problematicpieces being produced is slightly different when the vessel is brought up and the58 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 59


DIVE WATCHESdivers keep track of how much timeBreitling “Superocean”dive, a cave dive, or a dimly lit room, thethey could spend under the surface atOriginally developed in the 1950s, Brei-Superocean would be easy on the eyes.varying depths. This same format cantling introduced the modern incarnationFor those serious enthusiasts, the coralbe seen printed on many rubber watchof the Superocean in 1995. This profes-dial, like the Doxa Sub 750T, makes leg-straps within the industry today.sional diver’s watch is rated water re-ibility at greater depths possible.Doxa wanted a dial that could be easilysistant to 1,500 meters (5,000 feet), isSince it doesn’t house a chronographread under water, so various colors wereequipped with an automatic helium re-- Breitling’s signature complication - thetested (among them, red, turquoise, yel-lease valve on the side of the case by theSuperocean has remained one of Brei-low and orange) and on the hands and10 o’clock position, and has a 24-hourtling’s best values, and therefore bestmarkings, tritium was applied moreindication on the dial making it a fa-sellers. Mounted on the Professional IIheavily than had ever been used beforevorite among both military divers andbracelet, which sports Breitling’s char-Doxa Sub 750Tcabin isdepressu r i z e d .Since it tookdays for the heliumto seep into thewatch, it cannot seep outany faster. The excess pressureinside the watch needs away to be released, or the seals ofthe watch may rupture, making the watchunsuitable for water activity.For more information on the Seamaster,go to www.omega.ch.Doxa “Sub 750T”on a wristwatch. Orange was eventuallychosen due to it being legible down to30 meters, about the maximum deptha recreational diver will go and still beable to see the sea floor clearly.The success of the initial releaseprompted Doxa to continue improvingtheir dive model, and they decidedto test the watch with a helium releasevalve. Rolex was also testing a helium releasevalve during that time, and sincethese companies had a good working relationshipwith each other, they decidedto jointly share the patent for the firstdive watch with helium release valve. So,the Doxa Sub300T Conquistador with he-civilians.Breitling chose Superluminova as theillumination material with which to coatthe hands, Arabic numerals, and the dotat the 12 o’clock position on the bezel.This ensures that no matter what thelighting conditions - whether a nightacteristic high-polished, angled link, theSuperocean is a striking piece of equipment,and one that looks as good with asuit as it does beneath the waves.For more information and to see theother dial colors, go to www.breitling.com.Breitling SuperoceanIn 1966, Doxa Watch Company of Switzer-lium release valve was introduced in 1969,land presented at the Basel Watch show awith Rolex debuting the Submariner Seadive watch for the budding recreational div-Dweller with helium release in 1971.ing audience. This model was initiated inThe Doxa found its way to fame not1964 by Mr. Urs Eschle, the managing di-only in horological circles, but in liter-rector of Doxa from 1956 until 1966. Con-ary circles as well, being standard equip-sultations between the Doxa watchmakersment for Dirk Pitt, the action characterand many professional divers - most no-made famous by Clive Cussler. Manytably Mr. Claude Wesley, one of Jacquesdive watch fans will note the influ-Cousteau’s collaborators from 1962 on-ence of this pivotal orange-faced time-wards - yielded many practical ideas thatpiece on the now-famous Seiko “Orangewere encased in the original Sub.Monster.”Placing a “no-decompression times”For more insights into the brand andscale on the uni-directional bezel helpedthe watch, go to www.doxawatches.com.www.hrwatches.com August 2007 61


CX Swiss Military 12,000 FeetAqualand series of divers’ watches byoutdoor equipment has been continu-For most watches, it’s enough to keep water out at great depths.launching the “20 th Anniversary Aqua-ously produced, right up to the presentFor Swiss Military, the goal was not only to keep the inside dry,land.” This watch (model JV0030-01E)day. In 1991, Suunto created a divebut to make sure that the chronograph pushers were opera-houses Citizen’s proprietary Eco-Drivewatch that synchronized with a PC.tional - not at 200 meters, but at 12,000 feet (3,657 meters)!technology. Beneath the dial is a so-Along the way, golf watches, heart-In 2003, Frank M. Burgin had the idea of pushing the limitslar panel which converts the energyrate monitor watches and competi-of a mechanically operational diver’s watch. He started with aabsorbed from any light source intotive sailing watches were released, allreliable movement, the ETA 7750 (nee ValJoux), and enclosedelectricity and stores it in a capacitor.made of composite materials.it in a super-strong steel case. Many prototypes revealed differ-The result? You never need to stop for aIn 2004, Suunto launched the D9, theent weaknesses until just the right mixture of steel and other al-battery (carbon credits, anyone?).world’s most sophisticated dive watch.loys yielded the optimum pressure-resistance. Knowing that theFor any serious diver, the 20th Anni-It fully integrates a digital compass, andcrystal is one of the weak links, Burgin settled on a domed, 8mmversary model is a must-have piece. Fea-wireless tank data reception. Normallycrystal (a record, in its own right) with anti-reflective treatmenttures include depth display up to 300when diving, divers monitor depth, timeon each side, thus ensuring legibility no matter the conditions.feet, maximum dive depth, dive duration,elapsed and time remaining, tank pres-The case needed to be made larger and thicker, so a case sizea dive log that memorizes 20 dives, watersure, decompression status and directionof 49mm in diameter was ultimately chosen. Due to the crys-temperature display, and an auto-startas the primary critical pieces of informa-tal’s profile, this watch stands at 23mm thick! Also new is a heliumrelease valve with no moving parts (which, CX claims, canget clogged in other watches).dive mode. When a series of dives is complete,all information conveniently downloadsinto a computer by simply puttingtion. These are usually read off of severalgauges. The Suunto D9 has an optionalwireless transmitter so that a diver can alsoCitizensEco-DriveIn order to develop and test the case and crystal,a new pressure tank capable of building up a pressureof up to 800atm (8000 meters/26,246 feet)had to be built – and tested - from scratch.The result is a watch that has entered theGuinness Book of World Records forthe deepest, fully-operational divewatch in the world. Admittedly,the sheer size of the case is suchthat not everyone can carry thispiece of machinery. For many 7-inch wrists, this piece fulfills thehockey-puck-on-the-wrist syndromeperfectly. But for those whocan - and get used to it - it will behard to put a Breitling or Rolex backon after wearing this for a week.Citizen “20th AnniversaryAqualand Eco-Drive”Last year, Citizen, the world’s largest watchcompany, celebrated 20 years of making thethe watch into its cradle and syncing it.Beyond these, the watch measures surfaceintervals between dives, has a worldtimer with 42 cities and 29 time zones +UTC, three world time alarms, a perpetualcalendar and back lighting.The case is flattened on the right side sothat anyone wearing the watch on his leftwrist won’t have the side of the case digginginto his hand. Housed in a stainlesssteel case with rubber strap, the Aqualandlooks the part of the professional hightechdive watch. At a retail of $600, thisis one piece of equipment that almost anyonecan afford. Go to www.citizenwatch.com to see the rest of the line.Suunto “D9”Originally a compass manufacturer,Suunto was founded in 1936 by TuomasVohlonen. Although the companychanged hands a few times, compass andmonitor tank pressure and air consumptiondata from the wrist. The remainingtank pressure is displayed both numericallyand graphically, and an estimation ofthe remaining air time is given throughoutthe dive. This allows the diver to monitorthe remaining air supply at the same timehe monitors depth and time. Real time airconsumptionis also stored in the memory.If purchased with the wireless transmitter,the Suunto D9 combines all dive-criticalinformation in one instrument, mountedon your wrist.Besides all that, the Suunto D9 isthe world’s first dive computer to incorporatea digital compass. The compassshows the general direction witha graphical compass rose, as well as theexact bearing using a numerical display.The compass can naturally be usedon land, too, making it a land-practicalpiece of equipment as well.Aside from the traditional compositecasing, the D9 can also come in an alltitaniumhousing, which looks far morefashionable, and is definitely more robust.The D9 comes with a USB-compatiblePC interface and the Suunto DiveManager 2.0 software.For more information, go to www.suunto.com.ConclusionDepending on your needs, frequency ofdives and aesthetic values, each of thesemodels offer tremendous bragging rightsand real-life diving applications. If onewere to look at all the diving watches available,depression might actually set in (forwhich you might need decompression) becausethe market is so replete with them.Hopefully, this little smattering will giveyou a push in the right direction in yourquest for a true diver’s watch. nCitizen’s Aqualand Eco-Drivewww.hrwatches.com August 2007 63


WHERE TO DIVEWhere To Dive?Top 10 Spots WorldwideThere are many wonderful locationsspread throughout theworld if you wish to put yourtimepiece through the paces. Whatdivers look for is dependent on experienceand interest. Obviously, water clarityis a high priority, followed closelyby water temperature. Both of these,though will fall to second or third if thesite offers exceptional viewing.According to Scuba Travel (http://www.scubatravel.co.uk/) the top 10dive sites in the world (arguable, I’msure) are the following (the first five aredescribed):1. Yongala, Australia - The Yongalais a shipwreck in Queensland, whichsank during a hurricane in 1911 killing122 people. There was no telegraphequipment on board, so the vessel couldnot be warned of the weather ahead.In 1981 the Yongala was given offi-By Dean L. Bumpcial protection under the Historic ShipwrecksAct. The ship is 90 km southeastof Townsville, 10 km away form CapeBowling Green. She is arguably the bestdive in the world due to the abundanceof sea life inhabiting the area. Often,divers will see manta rays, sea snakes,octopuses, turtles, bull sharks, tigersharks, grouper, clouds of fish and spectacularcoral, all in a single dive.2. Thistlegorm, Red Sea - In 1941,while carrying a cargo of war supplies,the Thistlegorm was sunk from the airby the German Luftwaffe. It was carrying:rifles, motor bikes, train carriages,trucks, and other supplies. A big wreck,the Thistlegorm is 131 meters long (430feet!). The Thistlegorm is in the Strait ofGobal, north of Ras Mohammed. Thiswreck dive is so good that the DivingGuide to the Red Sea Wrecks contains 17pages on this one wreck, alone.3. Palau, Micronesia - Palau (orBelau) is a 100-mile long archipelago,southeast of the Philippines. It hasworld-class diving with sea walls, sheerdrop-offs, caves and a wide variety ofmarine life. The warm waters theremake diving relaxing.4. Barracuda Point, Sipaden Island,Malaysia - Known for the hundredsof barracuda parading around atany given moment, Barracuda Point alsoboasts leopard sharks, white tips, grayreef sharks, hammerheads, very largebump-head parrot fish, and schools ofturtles.5. Shark and Yolanda Reefs, EgyptianRed Sea - Although a little challengingfor recreational divers, this siteis well worth the extra certification youmight need. Fantastic colors, soft corals,every type of small fish, as well aslarge Napoleon Wrasses, sea-turtles, giantmorays, jacks, tuna, barracuda andsharks.6. Manta Ray night dive, KailuaKona, Hawaii – The Kona coast of Hawaii’sBig Island is likely the best spot onearth to get close to manta rays as theycongregate to eat at night. Divers’ lightsattract even more food for the rays andthe feast is on!7. Navy Pier, Western Australia– One of the best pier dives anywherecan be found on this, the North WestCape which is the southern-most tip ofWestern Australia’s North West Shelf. Ifyou’re Down Under, the Ningaloo Reefis the place tobe.8. The Brothers,EgyptianRed Sea– Two tiny islandsin themiddle of theRed Sea offer some fantastic viewingof sharks. Hammerheads and white tipreef sharks are plentiful here but makesure you go when the weather is good,since anchoring when it’s rough can bedicey.9. Great Blue Hole, Belize – A perfectlycircular blue hole in the middleof the Lighthouse Reef System is a beaconfor divers who enjoy coral and massivelimestone stalactites. Snorkelingaround the hole’s rim is ideal too.10. Liberty, Bali, Indonesia – TheLiberty wreck ranks as Bali’s most famousdive site. Sunk by the Japanesein January 1942, it sits on a black sandslope and is a favorite of photographerswho capture its anemone- and coral-encrustedbulk as well as flitting butterflyfish and damsels. n64 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 65


HOW DEEP CAN I GOThere is much confusion in the watch industry, largely propagated byignorant sales staff, as to what constitutes a “water watch.” To understandwhat a timepiece is capable of handling when it comes to going in the water,the watch industry has agreed upon certain ratings, which are usually engravedinto a watch’s case back. Below are the ratings and what you should know inmean that you can go 98.4 feet down.You may shower in the watch, and it canbe occasionally dipped, but is not recommendedfor recreational swimming.“50 Meters” or “5 Bars” - If you wanta watch that you can splash around thepool in and occasionally swim in shallowwater with, 50 meters (164 feet) is theminimum accepted standard within themeters can arguably be called “overkill,”since only a handful of people canactually go deeper than that. It’s akinto applying sunscreen protection: dermatologistsas well as the companies1 Bar Water Resistantpractical terms.industry for such recreational water use.“100 Meters” or “ 10 Bars” - If youtry. Despite the hassle of mailing yourwatch, having it wait in line behindBy Dean L. Bump30 Meters – 3 Bars. Showeringother watches for service, and then havingit mailed back to you (the wholeprocess can sometimes take a month orthat produce sunscreen say that SPF 15more), it is well worth the peace of mindKeep in mind that when a watch receivesa water resistant designation,it means that it has passeda pressure test. These tests are done by eithersubjecting the watch to a test done ina water-filled chamber where the pressureis brought up to the indicated bar, held for1 minute, and then released, or in an airfilledpressure chamber where the samething is done. The test is in a static, ormotionless, state, which does not simu-30 Meters – 3 Bars. Professional divinglate movement of a watch under water. Bystrapping a watch to your wrist, placing itone foot under water and then shaking itback and forth vigorously, you can easilyreach pressures of 30 to 50 meters.200 Meters – 20 Bars. Recreational divingIf you’re considering a watch that youdon’t want to have to take off, the followingphrases and practical explanationsmay help:“Water Resistant” or “1 Bar” - This100 Meters – 10 Bars. Sailing, etc.most basic of water indications meansthat the timepiece has been subjectedto a 33-foot water test. What it means:it can get splashed and rained on withouthaving any gasket failure. It shouldnot be used for showering, bathing orswimming.“30 Meters” or “3 Bars” - Pretty muchthe minimum standard within the Swissindustry for any watch, it doesn’t really50 Meters – 5 Bars. Swimmingdon’t want to bother taking your watchoff when around water, 100 meters isthe recommended water test for lapswimming,snorkeling, boating, sailing,using on wave-runners, and shallowscuba diving (no more than 50 feet, andnot for extended periods of time).“200 Meters” or “20 Bars” - This isthe minimum recommended rating fora watch that will be used for recreationalscuba diving, plus all previouslymentioned water activities.“300 Meters” or “30 Bars” - This isthe suggested water resistance ratingfor professional divers.Watches that are rated beyond 300is the maximum that the body can actuallyuse to block UVA and UVB sunrays. Anything more than this is, well,redundant.One word of caution: servicing andre-sealing of a watch should only be carriedout by either an authorized servicecenter, or by a competent watchmakerwho has a pressure-test machine andplenty of seals of various sizes aroundin order to replace any that have dried,cracked or been severed. Too often, acustomer will go to a local jeweler whois able to get the back of the watch off,replace the battery, and close it back up,but lacks the necessary equipment topressure-test the watch.A word to the wise: if you cherish yourtimepiece and want to keep if for manyyears, it is always best to send it to theauthorized service center in your coun-and the money, knowing it will be donecorrectly.Also, hot tubs are not recommendedfor any watches due to metal and rubberexpanding at different rates. Leaving awatch submerged in such temperaturesis asking for trouble.Lastly, most watch manufacturersrecommend having your watch pressuretested once each year to make sure sealsare good. If you can find a local watchmakerwho has the machinery to carryout the test, then Ben Franklin’s oldsaying that, “An ounce of prevention isworth a pound of cure.” is more aproposthan ever. Look in your phone book for“Jewelers” or “Watch Sales” or “WatchMakers” and ask if they have the equipmenton premises to do the test. If so,check any watch you’re about to take onvacation with you before you leave. n66 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 67


Anna NetrebkoPhotography by Peter Rigaud and Deutsche GrammophonSoprano Anna Netrebko’s star is shining brightly these days with rave reviews from all quartersand a new relationship with Chopard as its ambassador. The stunning beauty from Krasnodar,Russia took time between performances to reflect upon her work with Chopard andwhat it means as her reputation grows.Through her compelling performances in lead opera roles the worldover, she has garnered both popular and critical acclaim, includingbeing awarded the Russian State Prize, the country’shighest award in the field of arts and literature,in 2005 by President Vladimir Putin.As she keeps singing, gaining new fans andhonors, including a recent performance atNew York’s famed Carnegie Hall, there’sbut one certainty: She’ll do so with aChopard on her wrist.Please describe the genesisof your relationship withChopard and how natural itfeels to represent a brandthat, like you, embodies suchelegance and grace?For me, Chopard jewelry has alwaysbeen the epitome of beautyand elegance so I was extremelyhonored when I was asked to becomea Chopard ambassador. RepresentingChopard feels so naturalbecause I can so easily identifywith the aesthetics and values ofthis wonderful company.How do both you andChopard benefit from this relationship,you as a rising starin opera circles and Chopard asa well known brand with a newface?Hopefully this is a mutually beneficial relationship,I for one can only say how proud I am to be able towear Chopard for my professional appearances whenever possible.Wearing Chopard enriches the aesthetic impression inmy concerts immensely, they just make me feel so beautiful.With high profile articles in Vogue and growing exposureas an artist, what is the next step for youprofessionally?I just hope to continue to grow as an artist, give good performances,and ideally bring opera / classical music to more andmore people around the world.Who would you say provided the best advice orguidance as you worked your way into your currentroles and your appearance at Carnegie Halland what was said to you?A few select people are very important to me - my manager JeffreyVanderveen, Maestro Valery Gergiev, a few colleagues. Theyall encourage me to work hard, they give me valuable advice onmy career, repertoire, etc. I also rely on my own instinct.What has been the most challenging aspect ofyour growth as a singer and the responsibilitiesof stardom and how has affiliations with Chopardhelped?I have to say that being affiliated with Chopard has made memuch more comfortable with my ‘stardom.’ I do love to be apart of the ‘red carpets’ at high-profile events, and I feel morecomfortable wearing such beautiful jewelry and with CarolineScheufele (daughter of Chopard President Karl Scheufele) atmy side (I always make her come with me!).Both as a singer yourself and as a lover of music,describe the kindred spirit you share with theScheufeles, whose love of classical music led toyour pairing?The Scheufeles are such a wonderful family - so very kind, seriousin their profession, and supportive of me and my work. I feel verymuch recognized and respected as an artist when I’m with them.The relationship is very organic and natural for me. They are verysensitive tomy happinesswithour relationship,and thatmeans verymuch to me.What is itabout tacklingdifficult leadroles that you findalluring and howdoes the watch andjewelry you wear complementyour effort and help you duringit?I like challenges, and I like to rise to them. And I have to saythat feeling good about yourself and your appearance is of utmostimportance in an art form as physical as singing. Andthat’s really what the jewelry does for me - make me feelbeautiful.As you grow into your roles and your approach toopera changes, how does studying with sopranoRenata Scotto contribute to your learning?Renata Scotto is one of the truly, truly great sopranos of thepast century. Studying with her has been one of the most rewardingexperiences of my professional life. She is a great listenerand has been able to give me both technical and dramaticadvice that has heavily influenced my performance, both vocallyand dramatically.When opera fans think of Anna Netrebko now versus5 years ago or 5 years from now, what will bethe difference in their perception of her and whatwill it be based on?I don’t know, you’d have to ask the fans - I just hope that theywill continue to enjoy my performances and support me. n68 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 69


HUBLOT UNVIELS ITS LATESTMore Bang for Your BuckHublot Unveils Its LatestA triple Big Bang shows that Hublot’s most popular line is gaining evenmore steam as its 2007 novelties continue to impress. A trio in its Big Bang linefulfills the promise that the Geneva manufacture showed when CarloCrocco created that first gold Hublot watch in 1980, busting conventionswith the first natural black rubber bracelet in watchmaking history.Hublot should make historywith its latest entrants intothe field of fine timepieceswith the Big Bang Porto Cervo, PlatinumMat Big Date and Tourbillon AllBlack. Each exudes the unique timelessfeel that has exemplified Hublot’s artistryfor decades.The Big Bang King Porto Cervo maystand out the most as the largest watch— 48mm in diameter — in its collection.Despite its imposing size, it is wellsuited for both slender and larger wrists.Its aptness for all wearers is obvious, especiallywith the red gold and white ceramicPorto Cervo model. Its light andluminous color is especially appealing towomen.Beyond its visibility and girth, itssporty, distinctive and elegant styling isenhanced by red gold numerals insertedin the unidirectional rotating bezel. TheHublot’s Latest line of Big BangsBy Steve Heislergold was cast in recesses hollowed outof the ceramic and the result is complementedby a sober and neat white dialwith the Big Bang King seal in gold.Designed primarily as a diving watch,this Big Bang exudes an identity appropriatefor settings far removed from thedepths. And one thing is for sure: itsfusion of materials and style, at oncesporty and refined, lets anyone know itis a Hublot from far away.The same can be said for the Big BangPlatinum Mat Big Date. This sophisticatedmodel merges a tourbillon, a Bigdate and a five-day power reserve indicator.Its monochrome mat singlematerialcase stands out and makes youforget that its sober and singular stylemasks some wonderfully combinedcomplexities.The Big Date is displayed at 12 o ‘clocknext to the power reserve indicator on adial slightly raised in comparison withthe one in which the heartof the tourbillon beats, at 6o’clock. Its microblasted finishThe Tourbillon All Black will grab theattention of a potential wearer most,however, by its transparency and blackinvisibility. That blackness is illuminated,however, by the rubies in theTourbillon movement. The result is aharmony of contrasts, a fusion of ceramic,titanium, carbon, steel and rubberthat makes it a joy to behold.The acclaimed reception of the latestBig Bang watches from Hublot carryon the mandate of its visionary creatorsThat blackness is illuminated,Those early watches by Hublot gainedquick appreciation among celebritiesand royalty worldwide and began to setthe brand apart as one of the last independentfamily watchmaking businesseswith its unique mono-productconcept.When Crocco shifted his focus to theFoundation MDM to help the world’sunderprivileged children, he foundthe right man to lead the ship Hublotin Jean-Claude Biver. Biver, a Luxembourgnative, lived in Switzerlandsince age 10 andwas marked by the Vallee deappears coarse and natu-Joux for life. He was marriedhowever, by the rubies in theral at first blush but displaysin the valley and set up hissigns of sophistication as Tourbillon movement. The result is a home near a farm that laterwell.would become the head officeof Blancpain.Contrasts and affinitiesharmony of contrasts, a fusion ofjoin together in this Big ceramic, titanium, carbon, steel and He went on to work withBang, building on a spirit ofAudemars Piguet and thenfusion which has driven the rubber that makes it a joy to behold.Blancpain before being offeredHublot temperament sinceits earliest days. Its concentrationof high tech andavant-garde finish thus becomes theepitome of watchmaking know-how.The heart of the Big Bang’s groundbreakingdesign is obvious in the PlatinumMat Big Date and is equally distinctivewith the Big Bang Tourbillon All Black. Itblends traditional watchmaking and futuristicdesign with subtle black lines thatresult in a masterpiece that is at once provocative,robust and free. Its carbon fiberdesign simulates a two-wheel gear trainshape, all of which is brought to the foreon the index-free dial. Sharp and salientangles of the dial contrast nicely with theTourbillon cage’s curves.whose focus on developing elegantyet sporting watches has never wavered.Those creators included Crocco, whogrew up in a family of Italian watchmakersand designed his first watch in 1967.He began what would evolve into Hublotin 1980 with MDM Geneva and from dayone refused to follow dictates of fashionwhile following a guiding principleof simplicity. That simplicity could beseen in those early days with a look modeledon a ship’s porthole. With its firstmodels, twelve tiny titanium screws securethe lunette to the case, marking thehours as form meets function.the chance to makehis mark at Hublot beginningin May 2004. Underhis leadership, Hublot has stayed trueto its earliest principles and broughttogether unexpected materials andmovements to keep defining itself as aleader of haute horlogerie in the 21stCentury.That’s the case with these latest stunningiterations in the Big Bang line,watches that through their appearanceand apparent technical mastery setHublot apart as a watchmaker firmlygrounded in the Swiss watchmaking traditionbut always with an eye on how tobest make a significant mark in the future.n70 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 71


ULYSSE NARDINUlysse Nardin’s Freak: A Diamond(Without the Rough)By Dean L. BumpThe 21st Century has seen the most prolific burst ofhorological development and creativity ever recorded.During the last seven years, brands have shown breakthroughsin technology and design that have hithertobeen undreamed of, and the advancements in newmaterials has been unprecedented.Put Your Freak OnWith very little argument, the piece that was the catalyst in therace for new designs and materials is Ulysse Nardin’s “FREAK.”It was, in the words of the UN press department, “the pinnacleof both technological and artistic watch making.”Like Atlas’ brother, Prometheus, who stole fire from Zeusand brought it to man for his own uses, the door which theFREAK opened to the world of horology is only now being realizedand exploited by other ambitious brands.Debuting the original model in 2001, the FREAK broke allpreviously conventional rules for design. Time-reading, thewinding mechanism, the method of time-setting, and the materialsused within the movement were all avant-garde. Althoughcertain famous brands have recently boasted of theuse of silicium, the FREAK was actually the first commerciallyavailable watch with a silicium escapement, five years aheadof the pack.It was, and remains, the watch with the fewest parts. It hasa very large main spring beneath the dial, and the movementwith escapement floats and pirouettes above the dial. Whatregulates the motor is the breakthrough Dual Direct escapement,with a balance beating at a traditional rate of 3 Hertz,or 21,600 vibrations per hour. With watch collecting becomingThe Freak DiamonSilone of the fastest growing investment hobbies, there are manycollectors trying to find one of the original designs. However,with skilled labor in short supply, Ulysse Nardin has been hardpressed to meet the demands.One of Ulysse Nardin’s maxims is to continually improvethe models and technologies that it has. So, it was inevitablewith such a cutting-edge piece that Ulysse Nardin would offeran encore.Can We Get Any Freakier?The brand followed up the initial launch by unveiling the“FREAK 28,800” also known among collectors as the “FREAK 2”in 2002. What differentiated this new iteration of this “poetryfor the wrist,” as Rolf Schnyder, Ulysse Nardin’s owner, calls it,was the new Dual Ulysse, or Dual Indirect escapement. Thistime, the balance was sped up to a cadence of 28,800 vph, andthe escapement used two wheels made of nickel-phosphorus,rather than silicium.In 2005, Ulysse Nardin’s quest for ever-greater materials andprocesses led them to release the “FREAK Diamond Heart.” It,too, used the Dual Ulysse escapement, but instead of seeingthe dark glistening of nickel-phosphorus escape wheels, theLike Atlas’ brother, Prometheus,who stole fire from Zeus andbrought it to man for his ownuses, the door which theFREAK opened to the world ofhorology is only now beingrealized and exploited by otherambitious brands.new wheels were made of that most noble of materials - diamond,which made them almost transparent.Pierre Gygax, Ulysse Nardin’s technical director explainsthat the only problem with diamond wheels verses nickelwheels is that the manufacturing process is much slower, andthe cost is 1,000:1. Rolf Schnyder adds, “Diamond is anti-magnetic,needs no lubrication and lasts forever. The only barrierwith diamond is the extremely high cost.” So, how do you improveon the perfect? You reduce the cost of manufacturing.Enter the DIAMonSIL EscapementPartnering with Sigatec, a manufacturer of silicium parts, andGFD, a leading producer of components in diamond usingnanotechnology, Ulysse Nardin has once again given theworld yet another truly innovative and futuristic advancein watchmaking. This year the first commercially availablewatch with a synthetic nanocrystal diamond escapement“grown” on a silicium raw part is being offered by the companyfrom LeLocle.Instead of growing a large synthetic diamond and cuttingit to design specifications, now you have a pre-fabricatedform with the silicium wheel, and on top of IT yougrow your diamond coating. This means that it doesn’thave to be as thick or take as long or cost as much to manufactureparts that are essentially just as strong as the previousversion.The case, measuring 44.5 millimeters, with anti-reflectivesapphire crystals on both sides, is a visual feast for the eyes.The navy blue strap, dial and bridges contrast sharply, yet beautifully,with the platinum case, balance wheel, pointers, numbersand gears.Like the FREAK DIAMonSIL’s great-grandfather, the originalFREAK, the DIAMonSIL is unique in another way, too,besides materials and layout. It is, by design, a watch withouta case. Since the front bezel sets the time while the backbezel winds the mainspring - both of which are attached tothe carousel tourbillion mounted on the dial - you essentiallyhave one, large movement. Owners will be mesmerized at thewatch’s mechanical simplicity and austere beauty.Limited to just 28 pieces, the “Freak DIAMonSIL” is boundto be another pivotal piece in horology’s quest for the ultimatemovement construction and is another notch inUN’s catalog of accomplishments. n72 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 73


TUTIMATutima Celebrates Rich History with Flieger Chronographby Steve HeislerTutima comes from the Latin ‘tutus’ which means safe All Grand Classic models bear the traditional coin-edgeor protected. In watchmaking circles, it has meant but bezel, red marker and pilots hands that first appeared on theone thing since 1927: that an array of fine watchesClassic Flieger Chronograph.under that same name are a safe bet when it comes to topquality movements, cases and components.As the company celebrates 80 years of finely crafted metalsand movements, it does so with the knowledge of its own reputationthat grows with each new creation from the manufacturenow located outside the German town of Bremen.That reputation was cemented in the 1940s when Tutimawas commissioned by the government to manufactureits first aviation chronograph. Its Tutima ClassicNew to this collectionwill be a large Tutima “t1927’ logo etched on theexhibition crystal backwith special anniversaryengraving on the caseback.Its 43mm stainlesssteel case, convexFlieger Chronograph went on to define an era in the industrysapphire crystals,of aviation watches.It’s that spirit that infuses the latest creations from Tutima,including a special collection of new chronographsbased on the style of its Classic line.The highlight of this collection is the Grand Classic HavanaLimited Edition, Ref.781-01. Limited to 800 pieces, it featuresa second time zone display and comes with a Bordeauxcoloreddial and gold tone logo. Individually numbered on theside of the case and presented with a matching certificate, thiswatch is sure to become a collector’s item.Different functions, dial layouts and colors will mark othersin the Grand Classic series. A selfwindingValjoux 7754 movementdefines the Grand Classic UTC, Ref.781-04, while extra-large 12-hour and 30-minute displays anda Valjoux 7750 automatic movementmake the Grand Classic F2Chronograph, Ref. 781-05, a worthymember of this group.screw-down crownand case backs makethis watch as technicallysound as it is beautiful.And with a water resistanceof 100 meters, it’s clear thisis one timepiece that will bearound, no matter how used,for a long time.Reliability has always been abenchmark of Tutima and one reasonits anniversary celebration extendsto its new Tutima Yachting Chronograph. Designedas a professional watch for the active regatta competitor, itbuilds upon Tutima’s tradition as an official NATO suppliersince 1985. In that capacity, timepieces by Tutima have undergonestringent tests and tested under extremely challengingconditions.As an example, Tutima’s DI300 model endured a 2,000-miletrip beneath the Baltic Sea. The same level of professionalismcan be expected from the Yachting Chronograph, in this casefor yachtsmen the world over.Tutima’s staying power in yachting circles makesperfect sense: For the third straight year it was named80 Years and CountingOfficial Timekeeper of the Kieler Woche Regattas. It also recentlytook part in the HSH Nordbank 2007 Blue Race, a onceevery-three-yearregatta that consists of 40 teams racing 3,600miles nonstop across theAtlantic from Newport,Rhode Island to Hamburg,Germany.The Yachting Chronographepitomizes theattributes that makeTutima the best in thisfield, encompassing durability,legibility andfunctionality in a waythat strengthens thefoundation of theseinstruments.The design and constructionof the YachtingChronograph lets youknow the minute you strap it on that this is one tough watch.Its pure titanium case has integrated push buttons that cancope with the most demanding conditions. And its provenself-winding Lemania movement, also used in the MilitaryNATO Chronograph, is a perfect platform to endure any chal-lenge and provide the necessary functions for the 15-minutecounter.The regatta counter’s clear layout is appealing with a 15-minute display divided intothree different coloredsections for easy reading.The bright yellowhand resembles the hullof a racing yacht and indicatesthe progressionto a race’s start.Key technical featuresthat will catch your eyeinclude water and pressureresistance to 200meters, a case and braceletof non-corrosive puretitanium and a bidirectionallocking compassbezel. Its rich dark blue dialand easy-to-read luminous hands and indices are protected bya non-reflective sapphire crystal.The case secured with a screw-down crown and screw-downcase back are the final elements of this watch that is designedto deliver — and does so, time and time again.As a highly versatile timepiece for a sailor or any active watersports enthusiast, the Yachting Chronograph buildsupon the tradition of an earlier Tutima Chronograph, theClassic Flieger Chronograph.As Tutima celebrates 80 yearsof fine watchmaking, withthe release of both itsnew Classic line and theYachting Chronograph,it’s evident this is onebrand that — as the rootof its name indicates — issafely taking us on a journeyfrom Swiss watchmaking’sesteemed past into a futurethat is oh so bright for us all. n74 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 75


MARCELLOMARCELLO GIORDANIMarcello Giordaniin the SpotlightA tenor enjoyscollecting watchesThe year 1986 was a big one for then-budding operastar Marcello Giordani, both singing and, as he discovered,new passions away from the stage.Mr. Giordani made his professional stage debutthat year as the Duke in Rigoletto in Spoleto, Italy.But that was also the year the Sicily native developeda love for watch collecting based on his fatherin-law’sown burgeoning collection.By Steve HeislerThe tenor has gone on to develop a reputation as one nith, Omega and Hamilton from the 1940s. He loves to readof the brightest new voices in performances from La the history of them and find out everything he can and remembersthe feeling of awe when a watch was opened for himScala to The Metropolitan. But his other fond memoryfrom that time was his first glimpse of his relative’s array of and complications were revealed.pocket and wrist watches.He admits though to often wearing his gold Patek when“He showed me all of his collection,” Mr. Giordani said from performing. And he has been busy doing that, including thehis home in Lucerne, Switzerland. “He took care of his watches role of Pinkerton in the 2006-07 production of Madame Butterflylike his children.”for New York’s Metropolitan Opera.The watches bore names that weren’t real familiar to Giordani Mr. Giordani has been well received in New York, where histhen but which he now feels a close kinship to: Omega, IWC portrayal of Maurizio in Adriana Lecouvreur in Carnegie Halland Patek Philippe vied for attention with Jaeger-leCoultre, led the New York Times to proclaim “Marcello Giordani sangZenith and Baume & Mercier.like a God.”When his father-in-law passed away two years ago, he wound Such heady praise boosts Giordani but he remains centered.up with much of the collection and has cared for it the same He said he enjoys nights off at home with wife Vilma, theirway. He has found favorites such as oversized models by Ze-children and the watches he keeps on his wall.“When I grew up I understood singing wasn’t the only importantthing in my life,” he said. “I’m a little frantic sometimesif it’s a new role, but that’s normal.”Marcello Giordani’s frantic nature in the past hindered hisability to achieve the fame of other rising tenors like AndreasBocelli. He had anxiety issues while trying to get establishedand spent almost a decade honing his voice through breathsupport that helped him connect registers.Now he is recognized as one of the top world talents, buoyedby the reception of a new CD, “Sicilia Bella.” His creative musedoesn’t diminish once his passagio dwindles either – he loveswriting poetry and said he may begin reading a book and developan entire poem from one sentence.“I try to give 10 percent of my free time to write poetry andanother 10 percent on watches,” he said. “I have all my poetryand all my watches on my computer. They’re my friends, theykeep me company.”Marcello is in elite company in the opera world and said hehopes to remain performing and collecting watches for anotherfew decades.“Collecting watches is a privilege,” he said. “My real goal isto sing for 20 years and enjoy what I do and let the people enjoywhat I do.” nOn this page: Twopocket watches fromthe collection ofMarcello Giordani andthe opera star on stage.76 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 77


VINTAGE WATCHESA Big, Bold Pilot’s Watchfrom LonginesThe intrigue and mystery wouldbe left on the screen with greatthrillers like Notorious with CaryGrant and Ingrid Bergman, and ThePostman Always Rings Twice with LanaTurner and John Garfield. And howcould life be bad when you were whistlingone of the popular songs of the day,Zip-a-Dee-Do-Dah. There were thosepeople, though, who just didn’t see itall that way. In 1946 Winston Churchillwarned in a speech “an Iron Curtain”was descending on Eastern Europeand the United States tested an atomicbomb in the Bikini Islands. In Czechoslovakia,the air ministry was still orderingpilots watches for its flyers.In the mid 1930’s the CzechoslovakAir Force ordered an oversizedpilots watch from Longines. The firstwatches were made with a porcelaindial and fitted with a 15 jewel, caliber15.94, 34 millimeter, pocket watchmovement. This engine was robustwith years of production history dat-Eric Engh CEO Oldwatch.comThe year 1946 was filled with hope. The ideas of peace and harmony invaded the dreams ofall people on the planet. The United Nations first met in Central Hall, Westminster, Londonof that year, and all the speeches were filled with a vision of an earth living in harmony andcoexistence. War was a thing of the past, and all nations could come to the UN to solve thedifferences and defuse the strife.ing back to 1904. It was soon discoveredthese early watches had manyproblems that made them unsuitablefor cockpit duty. Although the caliber15.94 had proven itself on the groundin the pants pocket of a gentleman, itcould not stand up to the strong vibrationsand large electromagnetic forcesin the cockpit of a fighter plane.Longines quickly changed the movementto the caliber 15.26, a 15 jewelmovement with an antimagnetic hairspring.This helped the watch greatly,but one large problem still remained.The porcelain dials were prone to shatteringand they had to go.By 1939 Longines had used theknowledge gained in earlier experienceswith these watches to designand produce a final and excellent pilotswatch fitted with the caliber15.68Z, jeweled to the center wheel,17 jewel, antimagnetic movement,and complete with a black metal dial.Again the size of the movement was34 millimeters, allowing the casesto be retrofitted with the improvedmovement and dial.This watch was big and bold for itstime. The three-piece case was madeof stainless steel and measured 52 millimetersfrom lug to lug and 41 millimetersin diameter. The dial was bigand black, with high contrast luminoushands and large luminous numerals.This watch was easy to seein the cockpit even at low light. Thewatch was fitted with a rotating glassbezel with an arrow. This ingeniouslittle design allowed the pilot to measureelapsed time up to an hour,mark take off time, and to measuretime between way points accuratelyas an aid to navigation.When these watches were deliveredto the Czechoslovak Air Force,they were needed so quickly, manyof them were not identified withthe normal military property markings.The majority of fewer than3,000 ever made eventually wereserially numbered and engraved onthe back, “MAJETEK VOJENSKESPRAVY.” A rare few were nevertaken out of duty long enough tobe marked. The 1946 manufacturedwatch pictured is one of thewatches that was never marked.Today the Longines CzechoslovakAir Force pilots watch from the1930’s and 1940’s along with most ofthe other military watches of the prewarand World War II-era are in highdemand and are bringing premiumprices. As little as five years ago agood example of this watch couldbe acquired for under $500. Today aLongines Czechoslovak Air Force pilotswatch will bring between $1,600and $2,000, for the metal dial version,with a rare porcelain version bringing$2500. This particular watch isin high demand today because it islarger than most watches of the eraand fits in quite nicely with the currentstyle of “larger is better.”If you ask the question, “Wherewill it all end?,” it seems the sky isthe limit as far as the value of pilotswatches go. Happy collecting. n78 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.comAugust 2007 79


MARKET PLACEMa r k e t Pl a c eWyler’s Sporty DesignsThe Wyler Geneva Chronograph offersthe ultimate in stock protectionin a unique and resolutely sportydesign. This timepiece is availablein a strictly limited edition of 3,999pieces in a choice of red gold, platinum,titanium or stainless steel andincorporates a triple protection systemthat consists of a sprung case,unique crown protector and shockresistant Incaflex balance wheel inthe movement.Its original case design involvesa sandwich-style construction inwhich the movement is first encasedin a titanium holder thatrests in a carbon fiber frame. Thefront and back of the case, as wellas the rubber strap, are then attachedby spring screws that act asshock absorbers and suspend themovement inside the case. The caseand strap form one robust movementand the only remaining areaof vulnerability of the watch – the crown– is fully protected by a crown protectoron two sliding pins that must be fully retractedbefore the crown can be operated,thus ensuring the crown cannot transmitany shocks to the movement.A sporty dial with a touch of luxury.The black base is divided into inner andouter zones with contrasting brushedsurfaces. These are separated by the appliedcounter ring that is secured byscrews and includes the date windowat 4 o’clock. The luxuryfinish is completed by individuallyapplied Arabicnumerals andthe applied Wylername. Matchingskeleton handswith luminescenttips displaythe hours,minutes andchronograph hours and minutes.Its personalized self-windingchronograph movement is visiblethrough the sapphire crystal aperturein the case back. One is immediatelydrawn to the striking oscillatingweight in blackened heavy metal,whose drilled design is yet anotherfeature that alludes to the world ofautos, recalling drilled aluminumpedals or ventilated disc brakes. Thedistinctive Incaflex balance wheel design,with its curved flexible arms designedto absorb shocks, can also beseen in the 12 o’clock position. Theseparate screw-in inlay surroundingthe sapphire crystal aperture is engravedwith the Wyler logo as wellas the unique number for each limitededition piece and a reminder ofthe precious metals used in its construction.nChronoswiss’Imperator elegantand imposingChronoswiss proves its sovereigntyover time with itslatest creation, the imposing‘Imperator.’ Impossibleto miss on your wrist,it draws attention as muchfor its contrasting dial andhands as its hours, minutesand seconds visible underany lighting.The dial itself is noteworthywith its expansive plane,above which the blued steelhands sweep. Distinctivenumbers executed in ‘Belleepoque’ typeface make eachglance at the dial an aestheticpleasure. The numeralsare augmented by acircular minutes and secondsscale to which the tipof the hands are perfectlytangent.The case is equally impressive.Connoisseurs willassociate its design withthat of the limited edition“Digiteur” since its elegantlytapered design embodies the legendary stylings of the 1930s. Its authenticity and subtle sense of style doesn’tcome across as pretentious or ostentatious.Above all else, however, the ‘Imperator’s’ largeness – some might call it gigantic – is what draws the most attention.The case is 36.5mm wide, 56mm long and approximately one centimeter tall. As you wrap it around your wrist, youare showing in a big way your own belief in time as humankind’s most precious commodity. For prices, go to www.chronoswiss.com n80 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 81


MARKET PLACEMARKET PLACEA Lunar Masterpiece from Maurice LaCroixThe beauty and harmony of a watchmaking masterpieceemerge against a backdrop of tradition, but also throughthe gifts of spontaneity and surprise. Maurice Lacroixdeftly handles these moments of insight to develop ideasfor new creations. So it was with the new MasterpiecePhase de Lune, which is celebrating a spectacular appearancewith an elegant, impeccably finished dial and elaborately-craftedcase.Man has always been fascinated by the moon and its spellbindinglight phases, epitomizing time’s rhythmical comingand going for all to view in clear or translucent skies. Thereare precisely 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 secondsfrom full moon to fullmoon – this timeperiod, known as“the lunation”,has been definitivelyassociatedwithchanges inthe physical world. The moon’s most marked effect on the earth is thewaxing and waning of the tides, yet many believe that even routineevents like gardening or having one’s hair cut are affected by the secretpower of this heavenly body. To allow for orientation by thecurrent phase of the moon, both on a clear day and under anovercast sky, the moon phase indication very soon becamean indispensable part of the watchmaker’s repertoire.In recent years, Maurice Lacroix has made an internationalname for itself not least of which being a specialist inmoon phase watches. In the design of the Masterpiece Phase deLune, the Maurice Lacroix watch makers have wisely rounded themoon’s cycle: The lunar symbol – driven by the elaborate, hand-decoratedML 37 automatic calibre – sweeps across the semi-circular dialcut-outwindow located at 6 o’clock in 29 days and 12 hours. Besides themoon phase, the Masterpiece Phase de Lune displays the seconds, minutesand hours, date, weekday and month, partly with hands, and partly usingsmall dial windows. nZenith Branches OutZenith’s Class Open and Baby Doll collections are amongthe timepieces continuing to define this brand that madea splash last year with Defy, a luxury sports watchcollection.Zenith’s Class Open is pure in style and minimalisticin approach, a basic essential that exudes subtleelegance and discreet luxury. Its Grande ClassTourbillon, Grande Class Traveller Open Multi-City and the Grande Class Open Concept showcasethese features.The Grande Class Tourbillonincludes an exceptionalcalibrewith a tourbillonof the El Primeroc h r o n o g r a p hthrough anunusual design.A starirradiates thedial acting asthe bridge forthe Tourbillonin a white goldcase and, for themore traditional, arose gold case.The Grande Class Open Concept is futuristic and technologicalin its vision. It is crafted of black titanium, revolutionary materialsand an innovative technical structure.For ladies, the Baby Doll Star Sea and Star Sky collections are enhancedwith a sprinkling of pearls and diamonds on a mother-of-pearl dial. n82 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 83


MARKET PLACEMARKET PLACEAlpina’s Latest Extreme EntryAlpina’s already stunning Avalanche Extreme Collectiongets a step closer toward gold medal-status inwatches that work well outside or indoors with its AvalancheExtreme Automatic. The Automatic is a powerfulwristwatch that is uncompromisingly bold in designand character.The movement’s bridges are decorated with perlageand blue steel screws and the specifically designed rotorof this caliber, visible through a large sapphire crystalcase back, gives it plenty of strength and personality.Its functions include hours, minutes, seconds anddate. The case comes in matte-black PVD-coated surgicalsteel and is 48mm in diameter. Its three parts aresecured by six triangular-shaped stainless steel screwswhich nicely complements its see-through case back.It is 20 ATM water resistant and stands out becauseof its ABS-coated screw-down crown with red enameledAlpina triangle.The dial itself is black with the trademark Alpina trianglepattern in its center. Polished indexes and luminoushands make it a beauty to behold in any light. Inaddition, the rubber strap with optional deploymentbuckle or optional stainless steel bracelet makes you feelthe watch securely around your wrist.For prices and further information, go to www.alpinawatches.comnLiguria• Solid 316L Stainless Steel Case withUni-Directional Rotating Bezel• Quartz Movement with Wide ViewDate Feature• Scratch Resistant Mineral Crystal• Genuine Leather Strap• 5 ATM Water-ResistantJune 1-5, 2007Booth #29056Hall of Time®86 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.comTo request your free full line catalog, call 800-289-8963August 2007beautiful time...87or e-mail sales@bellagiotempo.com / www.bellagiotempo.com


MARKET PLACEChopard: the Face of the Mille Migliawith Two New ChronographsChopard lays claim to a highly personal commitmentto the ‘Mille Miglia,’ an exceptional race theGeneva-based company has sponsored since 1988.And although this year’s 1,600 km race throughItaly has already taken place, Chopard continuesto celebrate with two substantial chronographs.They are the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono, a powerfuldistinctive and resolutely contemporarytimepiece with integrated pushers, and the MilleMiglia GT XL Chrono 2007. The latter is availablein a black dial version featuring oversized numeralswith Superluminova coating It is distinguishedby a transparent sapphire crystal case back providinga clear view of the self-winding chronographmovement.The GT XL Chrono features a slatecoloreddial and oversized 6 and 12o’clock Arabic numerals beneath thesapphire crystal. It exudes an exclusivetouch while its aerodynamic pushers reinforceits sporty nature. The generous44mm diameter case is water-resistantto 100 meters and enhanced by a sapphirecrystal with anti-reflective treatment,a screwed-down locked crown anda back stamped with the Mille Migliaroute.Go to www.chopard.com for details onpricing. nStretching Boundaries at NOA:Nicola AndreattaCreates New TraditionsNicola Andreatta’s passions include auto racing, aerobatics and windsurfing near hishome on the shores of Lake Como. But nothing makes the 34-year-old’s eyes lightup more than the prospect of creating a watch that stretches the boundaries of thestaid Swiss industry.The president andchief executiveofficer of NOAWatches grew up in thewatchmaking business inItaly with his father andmother both working tomanufacture for companiessuch as Franck Mullerand Panerai. He jokes thathe was in the businesssince before he was bornand his mother was in themanufacture but his youthfulwatch fancy has onlygrown more intense.“I was always very interestedin watches,” Andreattasaid as he visited with hr:WATCHES at a U.S. airport.“When you’re young, themachines, the polishing, itall fascinates you.”His fascination has continuedas he has built his own company,NOA (setting itself apart as None Ofthe Above) during the past three years.Creator Nicola AndreattaHe had weathered an earlier businessdowntown in the 1990s when Chinesecompetition became intense and steelBy Steve Heislerand brass caused a shift inmaterials.As fewer ebauches wereavailable, many companieschose to make theirown movements, he said,citing 2892 and 2824. Thecost of doing so, between$30 and $50 million,makes it a tough propositionfor many, he said.“Not everyone can getinto that,” he said. “Youneed connections, youneed to know people.”Andreatta knows hisniche will remain as longas he remains true tohis ideals: “Am I makingwatches to sell thousands?It’s not the way Iwant to do it. I want tokeep it pure.”That purity is derivedfrom an adherence to a policy of sleeklypolished and finished cases and accu-Continued on page 9088 August 2007www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 89


ate timepieces that don’t include complicationssuch as tourbillons.His philosophy also involves notgrowing too fast. NOA currently sells in27 countries and has upped its productionfrom 5,000 to 10,000 watches peryear. He said NOA is opening new marketsin Korea and the Far East but thatexpansion won’t be too swift.“I don’t want to grow too much toofast,” he said. “You make mistakes andyou can’t give the customer service youneed to. It’s a very honest product.”With an average of 60 watches perstore, however, NOA is finding new markets.NOA regional manager Dennis Maradie,who accompanied Andreatta asthey set off for a trip to the Far East, saidNOA’s second appearance at the BaselWatch Fair netted 10 new jewelry stores.He wore an 18-carat Limited Editionand Andreatta sported a prototype 18-carat Limited Edition that will be introducedthis fall with raised numbers onthe dial. Another watch he’s developing,Scyllis, a diver’s watch is due out this fallnamed after a Greek sailor. Maradie saidthe hand-done dial draws attention eachtime he enters a prospective new store.“When I go into a jewelry store and tellthem I represent a new Swiss watch brand,they’re not excited,” he said. “When I getSide and front of NOA watchesthis on my wrist, they pay attention.”NOA watches are special even beforethey are put on. Each comes in ahand-made wooden box that costs $55.As Andreatti points out, he could go toChina for the boxes but chooses insteadto make them himself.It’s part of the attention to detail thathas set NOA, whose name was arrivedat after two weeks of brainstorming,apart. At around $2300 for many models,they’re affordable as well, an aspectthat is important to their founder.“I think everything is overpriced, it’snot fair,” Andreatti said. “There is value inmy watches that is easily recognizable.”With their distinctive dials, NOAwatches are highly recognizable in anycase. That is just as Andreatti has intendedit as well.“I think a watch must be recognizableto create broad awareness,” he said. “It’sa very simple thing and making it userfriendly.”Innovations in those user-friendlymodels include a women’s square watchhe plans to have out by year’s end. He alsoplans to have an Au 003 with a 2050 movementand screw crown by November.“My Rolex didn’t make a new one for 50years,” he said, half kidding. “The spiritis always that of old manufactures. It’sthat old Swiss boring thing. Here, we’retrying to do something different. We’retrying to renovate the industry.”Within the industry, he said he seesTag Heuer, and Breitling among hiscompetitors. Like NOA, they are sporty,classic styles that draw attention. Andlike those watches, they might not alwaysfit in the boardroom but be moreappropriate for fun times.“I don’t think my watch is the firstwatch you buy,” said Andreatti, calling it,instead, something special or different.“You go to work in the morning with yourRolex or Patek Philippe. Then you go sailingin the afternoon with your NOA.”Or, in Andreatti’s case, you fly yourstunt airplane in loops and spins or getyour windsurfing gear out for an afternoonon the nearby waters of LakeComo. He even said if he’s on the roadfor two days, he’ll try to squeeze in aday of his favorite hobbies.When he’s working in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the 10-mile drive at day’s endfrom Switzerland back to Italy can takean hour and a half. But if the waves areright when he gets home, everything isin sync, relaxing him for more creativitywhen it comes to watchmaking.“I can’t live without water,” he said. “Itgives you a great peace inside.” nDIGITAL AGEWATCHWINDING TECHNOLOGYthe TOURBILLON WATCHWINDERBy constantly indexing the rest position of your watch(es) on this winder, anyautomatic mechanical watch achieves Tourbillon accuracy (patent pending).A lighted LED display indicates actual turns per day and resets to zero at midnight.A second display shows exact time to facilitate watch resetting if necessary. In single,double or triple watch versions. For detailed information, visit www.orbita.com.GOING ON A TRIP?Slip your mounted watch in the Voyagerleather case with its own powered miniwinder.You can set it up wherever you are.Made and Serviced in the USA by Orbita Corporation1205 Culbreth Drive, Wilmington, NC 2840590 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com Call Toll Free: 800-800-4436 or visit August www.orbita.com 2007 91© 2006 Orbita Corporation


Paul Audet:By the Numbers,I C E L I N K W A T C H . C O MA Unique Success StoryIn the world of watchmaking, sometimes the statistics don’t seem to add up.By Michael MurilloIn the case of Paul Audet, there are afew surprising figures of interest tohorophiles. For example, how coulda company establish itself as a creativecompetitor among luxury Swiss watchmakersin just one year? That isn’t muchtime to impress such a discriminatingmarket, but Paul Audet is already defyingthe odds with its unique Voyager line.With that series, which features fivewatches with multiple automatic movements,Paul Audet is making a name for itselfand people are taking note of companyfounder Marco Danzinelli’s creativity.In fact, the Voyager line itself hassome unusual numbers attached to it. Ifa watch features four automatic movements,how many rotors would you findinside? Few would expect to see justone, but nobody expected the kind ofinnovative complications found in thisline of watches. Danzinelli explainedthat these creations came as a result ofhis interest in all things mechanical.“I have decided to produce watcheswith automatic movements for one simplereason: I have always been fascinatedby mechanics in general and I wanted toContinued on page 9492 August 2007 www.hrwatches.comwww.hrwatches.com August 2007 93ICELINKWATCH.COM | INFO@ICELINKWATCH.COM | 800.316.0387 | THE ICELINK PRESIDENTIAL COLLECTION 2007T H E A M B A S S A D O R


PAUL AUDETmake modifications according to my imaginationand my creativity,” he said.“The big size of my watches allows theintegration of four automatic movements,and I added the patented complicationof the single oscillating massloading the movements.” A see-throughback allows wearers to enjoy the mechanicsof these complicated pieces, andthe stainless steel case and buckle complementsthe overall style.But the Voyager line is surprising forother reasons as well. With generous dimensionsof 53 x 65 x 16.5 mm, theyare large watches. But if you expect thatto mean a bulky piece on your wrist, youwould find that those numbers don’t addup to an uncomfortably heavy watch.Danzinelli said that his customers havecome to realize that large watches can stillbe elegant and enjoyable. “They are astonishedby the ergonomics and the lightnessof our watches, which in spite of their bigsize are very pleasant to wear,” he said.In fact, Danzinelli said that he had a desireto make large watches when he firststarted drawing models for his cases. Hepurposely chose what he called “imposing”designs that reflect the character ofeach piece. That decision reflects the importanceof adaptability and style requiredby the public. “In the past, the majority ofpeople used to buy only one watch whichexploited only its initial function, to indicatethe hour. But today, this object is selectedfor its design, its color, its look andits complexity—like a jewel,” Danzinelliexplained. “The watch (today) is a productemphasized and chosen according to newcriteria, which are a matter of feeling andemotion. It fits in readily with clothingstyles or adapts to events and occasions.”With their new Master Dive watch,first introduced at Basel World and availablethis fall, Paul Audet has created awatch that will adapt to events and occasionsabove and below sea level. A sixsidedcase represents the five oceanswith the Earth, and the décor of the dialrepresents the swell of the sea. The metalsused to make the Master Dive—acombination of tantalum and stainlesssteel-- represent the darkness of the seaand daylight, respectively.While it maintains the large dimensionsthat mark a Paul Audet piece (56.5x 62 x 14 mm), the Master Dive is a verydifferent watch than the Voyager collection.With water resistance to 300 meters,two crossing bars across its face toprotect the glass from shocks and a heliumpressure-relief system, the MasterDive is made for true divers.But divers won’t be the only oneswearing it. Danzinelli explained thatthe Master Dive is designed and pre-sented to be practical, yet versatile. “It isa sports diving watch, but is also a veryelegant piece for the city,” he said. “Itsrubber bracelet can be replaced with theprovided shark leather bracelet so it canbe worn on any occasion.”While Paul Audet itself doesn’t have along history, Danzinelli has already shownan awareness of the competitive luxurySwiss market. He believes that to succeed,a company must adhere to the fundamentalsthat wearers demand from a trustedbrand. “The Swiss luxury watch industrydefends its place as a leader by innovatingconstantly in the design, the technologyand the choice of materials, and by ensuringan irreproachable level of quality,” hesaid. “I do think that Paul Audet has itsplace in this industry, and that my customersrecognize the excellence of Swissmademanufacturing in our models.”The Voyager 4 Time Zone BOD-402-C13 SE retails for $53,000. The MasterDive MD-300-c1 retails for $5,300. Formore information about Paul Audet, theMaster Dive and the Voyager collection,visit www.paulaudet.ch. n94 August 2007www.hrwatches.com


WINDING UPWith an autumn chill in theair comes the need for fashionfor the season – and thatextends and includes the wrist watchyou choose to complete your outfit ofsweater and pants or new charcoal greysuit.So it is that in the next issue, we takean in-depth look at dress watches. Theycome in many shapes and sizes. Butwhether round, square or tourneau,timepieces, affixed after one’s tie hasbeen secured and cufflinks fastened, saya lot about who you are.Along with that, you’ll find plentyelse here to digest as summer dwindlesinto fall. Gift ideas for the horologicallyinspired are offered since – let’s face it –the holidays of winter are right aroundthe corner.And we’ll be continuing our populardepartments that provide informationfor consumers savvy enough to followtrends or those who see the long-termbenefits of purchasing a fine timepiece.Their interest can be sated via our alwaysreliable Marketplace as well as arelatively new regular part of the magazine:Eric Engh’s column on investing.Selecting a timepiece that appreciatesor holds its value over time is a complextopic but we tackle it each issue.Also this issue, we offer hr:WATCHESinsights on a topic that should interestall of our readers, even those who perhapswon’t be promptly heading to theirnearest retailer.That last topic is a comparison ofhigh-end watches, those that don’t passfrom display case to your wrist withouta transaction of $50,000 and above.We take a look at the brands that piqueyour fancy, from staples of haute horologysuch as Rolex and Patek Phillipe tolesser known products of manufacturesthat are still worth a lofty price to thediscriminating collector.With all of that to dig into in the nextissue, your curiosity should keep you focusedon exciting new developments athr:WATCHES. n YES! I WANT TO RECEIVE ONE YEAR — 6 ISSUES OF hr:WATCHES MAGAZINE! ENCLOSED IS MY CHECK OR MONEY ORDER FOR $49.97 NOW ONLY! $30.00CHARGE MY VISA MASTER CARD AMERICAN EXPRESS DINERS CLUB $30.00(International orders $117 credit card only)CREDIT CARD NO.:EXPIRATION DATE:SIGNATURE:DATE SIGNED:NAME:TELEPHONE:96 August 2007www.hrwatches.comSTREET ADDRESS:CITY:STATE, ZIP:1012 BROADWAY • DUNEDIN, FLORIDA • 34698 AF104


Whatever does notdestroy me makes mestronger.FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHESEVENTEEN THOUSAND THREE HUNDRED DOLLARSTWENTY NINE THOUSAND SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARSDEFY: Power, Strength, Innovation - a true Revolution in both Aesthetics and TechnologyRacy bodywork houses a new generation of El Primero chronographs. Brushed gold and steel case for the DEFY CLASSIC range, setting new standardsin the universe of sport-chic timepieces. Radically transforms into a high-tech thoroughbred when dressed with gold and black Titanium: Enter DEFYXTREME. Muscular chassis with alveolar structure, high-performance engines strengthened by anti-shock bridges in Zenithium Z+. Interchangeablerubber and leather straps. Gold and steel bracelets also available. A unique combination of innovative materials for a dynamic lifestyle.TEL. 866 273 3467WWW.ZENITH-WATCHES.COM

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