By Trisha Tucker - The Hollywood Reporter

01_Diamonds_trends_k 1/22/09 6:38 AM Page 26imes of turmoil can be great forHollywood plot lines, but they are anightmare for those preparing towalk the red carpet during awards season.Stars and stylists find themselves in anawkward position, having to determine to whatextent their sartorial choices should mirror theconcerns of the age. Replacing sumptuousnesswith subtlety may seem counterintuitive inHollywood, but in the past such compromiseshave provided compelling evidence of just howbuoyant the film and fashion industries can be.After Sept. 11, for example, the show didindeed go on, while the red carpet featuredunderstated gowns and tastefully toned-downjewels that both respectfully registered thetenor of the times and sent a powerful messageabout the resilience of American culture.By Trisha TuckerANNE-CHRISTINE POUJOULAT/AFP/GETTY IMAGES(In)conspicuousConsumption26 THR.COM 01.23.09

01_Diamonds_trends_k 1/22/09 6:38 AM Page 27Diamonds and the Moviesspecial reportPenelope Cruz in Chopardat the 2008 CannesInternational Film FestivalOn the Cover:Beyonce in a diamondfringe necklace fromLorraine Schwartzat this year’sGolden GlobesOn theSection Cover:Fred Leighton 19th centurydiamond necklace01.23.09 THE HOLLYWOOD REPORTER 27

01_Diamonds_trends_k 1/22/09 6:40 AM Page 28Diamonds and the Moviesspecial reportThis year, the industry’s best and brightest will celebrate their accomplishments in the midst of one ofthe worst economic downturns in U.S. history. While the mood at the awards shows will likely be warmand the fashions lovely, insiders are expecting the country’s financial crisis to affect red carpet jewels insubtle but significant ways. Diamonds won’t go away, but where and how they’ll be worn will be influencedby a new focus on simplicity.Subtle SparkleOne of the most important jewelry trends of the past fewyears — a move away from blinding bling toward sophisticatedshimmer — will likely become even more significantthis year as actresses and stylists strive for tactful elegance.According to Helena Krodel of the Jewelry InformationCenter, “Jewelry in general is becoming less pristineand perfect” because high-end designers are increasinglyembracing unusual cuts and colors of diamondsand other gemstones.Rose-cut, rough-cut, single-cut and slice-cut diamondsall offer plenty of romantic sparkle without too much overtflash. As Krodel puts it, “Rough-cut diamonds and gemstones arestill precious and organic, but they display an appreciation of nature rather than saying, ‘Here, Ihave money, let me show it off.’ ” Designer David Aaron Joseph of Bochic, a company wellknownfor its innovative use of unusual diamond cuts and colors, is careful to point outthat less bling doesn’t mean less beautiful. “The idea is that there’s a story behindthis jewelry. It’s unique, it’s glamorous, it’s one-of-a-kind — but it’s understated inthe way that it’s done. It can still be bold and colorful, but it’s not about diamonds inyour face — it’s the opposite of that.”Additionally, while traditional white diamonds and bright jewel-toned gemswill surely have a strong presence on the red carpet, industry insiders areexpecting a significant showing of black-, brown-, grey- and champagnecoloreddiamonds — colors that have been shunned in years past. Such stonesare becoming increasingly popular due to their subtler sparkle. Sally Morrison,director of the Diamond Information Center, says the trend toward these colorscompliments the lower-wattage diamond cuts. “They’re subdued, they’re stylish, they’re classy, but they don’tscream at you. You have to look to see them.”Family Jewels:Clockwise from above:Fred Leighton 1925 diamondbracelet; Vardiva rose-cutdiamond earrings; Martin Katzrose-cut diamond ring setwith cognac diamonds;Bochic braceletsClassic ChicOf course, not all stars will embrace the trend toward unusual diamond cuts and colors. As Krodel points out,“There will always be some beautiful pieces (on the red carpet) that are just awe-inspiring and amazing with theirOld World glamour.”Morrison concurs. She expects to see plentyof “big, clean diamonds in classicshapes, like very simple studs ordrop earrings with a lot ofwattage, as well as tennisbracelets andmaybe a few big,statement necklaces.”28 THR.COM 01.23.09

01_Diamonds_trends_k 1/22/09 6:40 AM Page 30Diamonds and the Moviesspecial reportHowever, Morrison also reveals that such classic pieces — though lesssubdued than those featuring rough-cut gems — display their own kind ofsubtlety and economic thrift. “I think there’s a wish to have fewer, betterthings — simpler things,” she says, “and to not use fashion in such a disposableway, as maybe we’ve done until recently.”Rebecca Selva of Fred Leighton has noticed a similar sentiment among itscustomers and expects the company’s 19th century and early 20th centurypieces to make a strong showing this awards season. As Selva puts it,“These are timeless, classic looks. People remember the jewelry wornon the red carpet, and these pieces stand the test of time.” Frederic deNarp, president and CEO of Cartier North America, also anticipatesthat traditional diamond shapes and settings will have a strong redcarpet presence because, as he notes, “femininity and glamour arealways up to date, no matter what.”Carats and Sellery:Clockwise from above:Fred Leighton 1950s diamondbracelet; Cartier necklace andearrings; Fred Leighton 19thcentury diamond earrings;Bochic cuff; Fred Leightontortoiseshell haircombsMake a StatementWhile traditionalists and bohemians may disagree on what style of baublerepresents the best response to the current economic situation, there doesseem to be one trend that everyone can agree on: 2009 is the year of the single,statement-making ornament. “It’s all about a power piece,” jeweler LorraineSchwartz says. “You might not do as much, but you’ll do agreat cuff with a small pair of earrings.It’s very individualized.”Selva agrees: “We’re seeing amuch more modern approach tojewelry: making it about onepiece, the key accent.”Instead of piling on the bangles, the chandelier earrings andthe giant cocktail ring, actresses will likely pick a statementpiece like an oversized necklace or large cuff, which de Narpsays will help keep the overall look simple.But Morrison indicates that weshouldn’t confuse simplewith run-of-the-mill.In fact, jewelry willnot be confined tothe ears, throat and wristthis year. Instead, diamond brooches will likely be showing upin the hair, on headbands, on the straps and sleeves of gowns,and at the waist and neck. Such creativity in placement is one wayto ensure that the trend toward the tasteful and elegant stays freshand exciting. As Schwartz is quick to point out, “celebrating fashionwith genuine ingenuity on the redcarpet is the surest way to inspireconsumers at all price points toFrom Marilyn to Carrie Bradshaw,invest in a beautiful piece forcheck out our pics of all thefabulous jewels at” ∂30 THR.COM 01.23.09

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