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VOLUME 1 l AUTUMN <strong>2015</strong>
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CONT<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
26<br />
TRAVEL<br />
76 OMAN<br />
Fairytales Come True<br />
81 JANE GODALL<br />
The Mother of Chimpanzees<br />
82 IRELAND<br />
Lighthouses<br />
84 INFINITY POOLS<br />
SpectaPOOLar<br />
87 DID YOU KNOW…?<br />
Oil, Indonesia and Terracotta Army<br />
88 INSIDER TIPS<br />
Vienna<br />
90 MALDIVES<br />
A Journey to Paradise<br />
98 A PEEP BEHIND THE SC<strong>EN</strong>ES<br />
From Baghdad to North Korea<br />
COVER STORY<br />
26 THE BIG APPLE<br />
New York<br />
48 <strong>PRESTIGE</strong> PRES<strong>EN</strong>TS …<br />
In the Time Capsule<br />
81<br />
CULTURE & ART<br />
56 BRAD PITT<br />
A Flair for Art<br />
62 AUTUMN DIARY<br />
From Klimt to Sheep<br />
Award Ceremony<br />
64 FRANCK BOUROULLEC<br />
The High-Speed Painter<br />
68 ITALIAN VIOLIN MAKING<br />
The Lollobrigida among the Violins<br />
72 ELITE UNIVERSITIES<br />
The Training Centres of the World<br />
75 CHRISTOPHER LEE<br />
The Most Famous Vampire of the World<br />
90<br />
16 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CONT<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
118<br />
100 FACES OF TIME<br />
Dials<br />
115 DID YOU KNOW…?<br />
Rolex, Giant Crystals & Golden Times<br />
117 CAROLINA BUCCI<br />
Finely Woven Gold Jewellery<br />
118 SHADES OF GRE<strong>EN</strong><br />
The Emerald<br />
122 ANNETTE & HERBERT KOPP<br />
Handmade jewellery collection<br />
124<br />
DRIVE STYLE<br />
124 COMMITTED TO ELEGANCE<br />
Concorso d’Eleganza<br />
140<br />
129 RALLYE<br />
Paris–Dakar<br />
130 TULIPWOOD<br />
The wooden Torpedo<br />
133 MOTORISED BOOKS<br />
Myths, Hippies & Members only<br />
134 THE NEXT WAVE OF SUVS<br />
Greetings from the Four-Wheel Drive Faction<br />
140 A STAR ON AN EXT<strong>EN</strong>DED TOUR<br />
77 Years of Mercedes Four-Wheel Drive<br />
142 THE G<strong>EN</strong>TLE CONQUEROR<br />
Maserati: Gentleman with 530 HP<br />
115<br />
18 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CONT<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
FASHION<br />
146 MOVIES CREATE FASHION<br />
Wardrobes of the stars<br />
152 SHARON STONE<br />
10 Questions for …<br />
172<br />
BEAUTY<br />
172 ORGANIC DE LUXE<br />
The Eco-Luxury Class<br />
178 SIX S<strong>EN</strong>SES<br />
From Smokey Eye to a Sea of Roses<br />
154 <strong>PRESTIGE</strong> PRES<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
Fashion Collages by Nora Ermatinger<br />
164 FASHION CLASSICS<br />
The Poncho<br />
166 GOLF & FASHION<br />
Fairway Fashion<br />
170 NAOMI CAMPBELL<br />
Beauty and the Beast<br />
202<br />
182 ZARKO AHLMANN PAVLOV<br />
Fragrant Charm<br />
186 HEL<strong>EN</strong>A RUBINSTEIN<br />
The Queen of Cosmetics<br />
187 DID YOU KNOW…?<br />
Nivea, Mascara and Perfume<br />
LIVING<br />
188 BIG<br />
Yes is more!<br />
194 HOTEL ARCHITECTURE<br />
Visiting Architectural Marvels<br />
198 NEWS OF THE WORLD OF DESIGN I<br />
Sofa & Corkscrew<br />
200 DESIGN CLASSICS<br />
Jacobsen’s Egg<br />
202 HUBERT LE GALL<br />
Furniture from Wonderland<br />
207 NEWS OF THE WORLD OF DESIGN II<br />
Lamp & Bathtub<br />
208 ISAMU NOGUCHI<br />
Western Art meets Japanese Tradition<br />
146<br />
20 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
RADO.COM<br />
RADO TRUE DIAMONDS<br />
HIGH-TECH CERAMIC • LUXURY AND COMFORT • SERIOUSLY IRRESISTIBLE<br />
TIME IS THE ESS<strong>EN</strong>CE WE ARE MADE OF
CONT<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
CULINARIUM<br />
210 THE MAGICIAN OF FLAVOURS<br />
Nenad Mlinarevic<br />
215 PURE PLEASURE<br />
Saffron<br />
210<br />
216 VIRTUOSOS BEHIND THE BAR<br />
Jerry Thomas & Ada Coleman<br />
219 NEWS FOR GOURMETS<br />
Smokables & Espresso Pleasure<br />
220 PROFESSIONAL BART<strong>EN</strong>DERS<br />
RECOMM<strong>EN</strong>D …<br />
Favourite drinks for <strong>2015</strong><br />
215<br />
223 DID YOU KNOW…?<br />
Taste of Christmas & Roots<br />
224 BEER TOURS<br />
Man’s best friend<br />
NEWS<br />
116 ELEGANT JEWELLERY<br />
123 THE JEWELLERY OF YOUR DREAMS<br />
139 I SEE BLUE<br />
151 BLACK & WHITE<br />
153 CASUAL ELEGANCE<br />
171 CANDY COLOURS<br />
180 PRETTY FOR AUTUMN<br />
185 AUTUMN’S HERE<br />
COLUMNS<br />
71 WILHELM J. GRUSDAT – We Do it All …<br />
97 JASMIN TAYLOR – A Trip to the Coloured Earth of Mauritius<br />
10 LEGAL NOTICE<br />
226 PREVIEW<br />
GRAFF<br />
22 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
MESURE ET DÉMESURE *<br />
TONDA METROGRAPHE<br />
Steel<br />
Automatic chronograph movement<br />
Hermès calf strap<br />
Made in Switzerland<br />
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STUDIO PARMIGIANI GSTAAD<br />
ASCONA GIOIELLI-OROLOGI HERSCHMANN | BASEL GÜBELIN | BERN GÜBELIN | CRANS-MONTANA L’ATELIER DU TEMPS<br />
G<strong>EN</strong>ÈVE AIR WATCH C<strong>EN</strong>TER, B<strong>EN</strong>OIT DE GORSKI, GÜBELIN, ZBIND<strong>EN</strong> | INTERLAK<strong>EN</strong> KIRCHHOFER<br />
KLOSTERS MAISS<strong>EN</strong> | LAUSANNE GUILLARD | LUGANO GÜBELIN | LUZERN GÜBELIN | MONTREUX ZBIND<strong>EN</strong><br />
NEUCHÂTEL BONNET | ST. GALL<strong>EN</strong> LABHART-CHRONOMETRIE | ST. MORITZ GÜBELIN<br />
VILLARS-SUR-OLLON BRÄNDLI CREATION & CO | ZERMATT HAUTE HORLOGERIE SCHINDLER | ZÜRICH GÜBELIN, ZEIT ZONE
DEAR<br />
READERS<br />
W<br />
elcome to our first Prestige International e-mag edition in<br />
english.<br />
Let us take you on a journey to the city that never sleeps, the Big<br />
Apple. Soaring skyscrapers, the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State<br />
Building, Fifth Avenue, Central Park – everyone knows the sights of<br />
New York. But there are a few that are less well known but equally<br />
worth seeing. Join us for a peek behind the scenes on Broadway<br />
and visit Harlem’s Apollo Theater. Explore Brooklyn and discover all<br />
the best places to stay. New York sets the trends, and some of them<br />
have found their way over here. The «Go Veggie» initiative has come<br />
and gone in the USA, but now celebrities are avoiding all animal<br />
products. Find out about the latest «green» trends in the luxury<br />
sector – including vegan fashion and organic beauty.<br />
We’ll also reveal the latest must-have gadgets and which fragrance<br />
you should be wearing this autumn.<br />
So it’s time to pour yourself a nice glass of red and put your feet up<br />
in front of the fire with the latest edition of Prestige.<br />
Francesco J. Ciringione<br />
Publisher<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
Chief Editor
CULTURE<br />
& ART
It is the capital city<br />
of the American Dream.<br />
The city that never sleeps. The<br />
city of superlatives. There<br />
is no doubt that New York is one of the<br />
world’s most exciting cities. New York<br />
is not America, but this is where<br />
the country’s heart beats<br />
the loudest.<br />
NEW YORK<br />
Yvonne Beck
CULTURE & ART<br />
«New York is an ugly city. Its climate is a scandal,<br />
its politics are used to frighten children, its traffic is<br />
madness, its competition is murderous. But there<br />
is one thing about it – once you have lived in New York<br />
and it has become your home, no place else is good enough.»<br />
– John Steinbeck, 1953 –<br />
MMoney changers on Ellis Island | 1910.<br />
elting Pot<br />
The metropolitan area of New York is home to 21 million people.<br />
171 nationalities live cheek-by-jowl, and almost 100 languages<br />
are spoken. 40 percent of the population speak Spanish at<br />
home and 25 % do not speak English. Nearly a third of taxi<br />
drivers speak barely a word of English. New Yorkers are protected by<br />
50,000 police officers, treated by 12,000 psychiatrists, entertained by<br />
600 productions on and off Broadway and have a choice of 18,000 food establishments<br />
to eat in. Their spiritual needs are looked after by 6000 churches,<br />
temples and mosques. 122,000 licensed taxis criss-cross the city. Including<br />
its 5 boroughs, it covers a total surface area of 779 square kilometres<br />
(compared to Berlin at 883 sq km and London at 1,580 sq km).<br />
Originally settled by the Dutch, British and Huguenots, New York was very<br />
much a city of immigrants. Its harbour meant that this was even more the<br />
case during the 19th century. Between 1815 and 1915, 33 million immigrants<br />
entered the United States, three quarters of them through the port of New<br />
York. Thousands of Irish fled the great famine of 1845 to 1847 to seek a new<br />
life in the New World. They were joined by German Catholics, Italians, Scandinavians,<br />
Jews and people from every corner of the world.<br />
Almost half of all immigrants worked in factories making everything from machinery<br />
to shoes and cigars. Germans settled in «Little Germany» to the<br />
28 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
Ellis Island: gateway to the New World.<br />
Jewish market on the East Side.<br />
This area was settled by many poor Eastern Europeans.<br />
south, on the East River. This was the site of the Singer sewing machine<br />
factory, so beer taverns and German businesses quickly sprang up. In the<br />
2000 census, 43 million Americans – one in six of the population – said they<br />
had German ancestors.<br />
Admitting immigrants<br />
In 1892 an immigration centre was established on Ellis Island to regulate immigration<br />
to America. Some 12 million immigrants passed through the island<br />
between 1892 and 1954.<br />
At this time it was mainly people from Eastern and Southern Europe who were<br />
fleeing unrest and political persecution. The majority were highly educated<br />
Russian, Polish and Austrian Jews. They settled on the Lower East Side. At<br />
the same time Italians were flocking to New York looking for unskilled work in<br />
the clothing industry or as construction workers on the subway. These<br />
new immigrants were said to be unwilling to assimilate and incapable of<br />
understanding life in America. Writing and reading tests were introduced.<br />
Restrictions on immigration became ever tighter, and gradually the authorities<br />
began to refuse entry to the sick, polygamists, prostitutes, the poor, anarchists,<br />
Chinese (1882), Japanese (1907) and illiterates (1917). In spite of this,<br />
1,285,349 immigrants were cleared through customs in the year 1907 alone.<br />
Almost every second American (40 %) has ancestors who entered the country<br />
via Ellis Island.<br />
A Hearty Welcome &<br />
Thank You …<br />
In 1524 the Italian Giovanni da<br />
Verranzano was the first European<br />
to sail around Manhattan. 85 years<br />
later the Briton Henry Hudson also set<br />
foot on the densely wooded island.<br />
The Dutch made the first attempts to<br />
settle the southernmost point and<br />
called their trading post Nieuw Amsterdam.<br />
The Mana-Hattans, native<br />
Red Indians of the Delaware tribe,<br />
gave the white man a friendly welcome.<br />
Just 30 years later, they had been<br />
wiped out.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 29
CULTURE & ART<br />
«It isn’t like the rest of the country – it is like a nation<br />
itself – more tolerant than the rest in a curious way…»<br />
– John Steinbeck –<br />
Mott Street: a symbol of New York’s melting pot This street was mainly settled by Asian immigrants.<br />
The immigrants named Ellis Island the Island of<br />
Tears because many a fate was decided upon after<br />
a 2-minute interview and a medical examination.<br />
First of all, immigrants had to climb 50 steep stairs<br />
to the registration room, closely observed by doctors.<br />
Anyone who found this difficult could have a<br />
heart problem, so they were subjected to a more<br />
intensive examination. The doctors checked for infectious<br />
diseases, inspected hands, face and hair<br />
and if anyone looked suspicious they were given a<br />
chalk mark on their right shoulder ( «S» for senility,<br />
«Ct» for the eye disease trachoma and «X» for a<br />
mental defect). The others passed through a door<br />
with the inscription «Push to New York» and were<br />
admitted.<br />
Harlem continue to be shaped by that era. After the Second World War, large<br />
numbers of Puerto Ricans, Cubans and Dominicans arrived in the USA. Israeli<br />
and Arab immigrants began arriving in the 1960s. They abandoned their<br />
homelands because of economic difficulties and political unrest in the Middle<br />
East. Since 1965 the largest number of newcomers has come from China,<br />
and since the fall of the Soviet Union many Black Sea Russians, mostly Orthodox<br />
Jews, have also moved to New York. They predominantly live in<br />
Brooklyn or on Coney Island.They predominantly live in Brooklyn or on Coney<br />
Island. Asians from Vietnam, Korea, India and Taiwan mainly opt for the area<br />
north of Queens.<br />
So, New York may be a melting pot, but people still like to live among<br />
their own, and many still follow the customs and traditions of their home<br />
countries.<br />
The Boroughs and their Nationalities<br />
Between 1900 and 1930 some 300,000 people left<br />
the Caribbean islands to come to New York. The<br />
«Harlem Renaissance» of the 1920s attracted<br />
many blacks to move to the city from the South.<br />
But in contrast to other ethnic groups, they were<br />
denied access to social betterment. As soon as<br />
black citizens moved into a neighbourhood, the<br />
white population left and the prices of real estate<br />
went through the floor. It was only the music and<br />
literature scene that afforded the black population<br />
a measure of fame at this time. Districts such as<br />
How the population is made up<br />
27 percent of the population originate from Spanish or<br />
Portuguese-speaking countries, and around half of<br />
these come from Puerto Rico. Blacks (Afro-Americans)<br />
make up 25 % of the population and whites (Eurasians)<br />
around 35 %. 10 percent have other ethnic origins –<br />
chiefly Asians and Arabs.<br />
30 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
2<br />
1<br />
3<br />
1 | Pizza and spaghetti<br />
in Little Italy.<br />
2 | LGBT community<br />
3 | NYC: a melting pot.<br />
4 | Chinatown<br />
5 | Harlem street scene<br />
6 | On the subway, heading<br />
for Queens.<br />
7 | New York is home to the<br />
largest Jewish population<br />
outside of Israel.<br />
5<br />
4<br />
6<br />
7
CULTURE & ART<br />
THE<br />
OF THE<br />
BROADWAY<br />
It is the most famous<br />
street in the world.<br />
This is where stars were born<br />
and its lights shine as<br />
if there is no<br />
tomorrow.<br />
«The musical is the American theatre’s<br />
main claim to fame.»<br />
– Jerry Herman –<br />
32 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
For over 130 years Broadway has been the<br />
heart and soul of American showbusiness.<br />
Back then no one would have guessed that<br />
this street would become the world’s longest street,<br />
25 kilometres long. Broadway was originally an<br />
Indian trail that was also an early trading route. It<br />
became an important link between the harbour and<br />
the hinterland.<br />
Shows, Shows, Shows<br />
Today when we talk of Broadway we generally<br />
mean the relatively small theatre district, which<br />
makes up just one thirtieth of the street’s length.<br />
Nowadays the Broadway theatres are confined<br />
to an 800-metre stretch and its side streets to east<br />
and west. The term Broadway Theatre has remained,<br />
even though there are now only five playhouses<br />
on Broadway itself. Three of these can<br />
barely be recognized as theatres because they are<br />
located in office towers. A further 34 theatres are<br />
located on the side streets of Time Square, between<br />
42nd and 47th Street. Apart from London’s West End, this area has the<br />
highest density of theatres in the world.<br />
The Capital of Musicals<br />
Musicals dominate Broadway – quite understandably, as this is where<br />
they were born. This glamorous form of musical theatre developed out of<br />
vaudeville, melodrama, minstrel shows, operettas, ragtime and jazz. «The<br />
Black Crook» (1866) is considered to be the first real musical. But it was not<br />
until the Thirties that the genre really took off. Musicals were also hugely<br />
popular after the Second World War. Many of the songs that are still popular<br />
today come from hit musicals from the Forties and Fifties: «Annie Get<br />
Your Gun» (1946), «Kiss Me Kate» (1948) and «My Fair Lady» (1956) to name<br />
but a few. In 1957 «West Side Story«, Leonard Bernstein’s Puerto Rican take<br />
on «Romeo and Juliet», opened in New York. This was followed by global<br />
hits such as «Cats», «Phantom of the Opera», «Miss Saigon», «The Lion<br />
King» and «42nd Street». Many of these musicals have also been staged<br />
in Stuttgart, Hamburg and Vienna. One musical that has not yet reached us<br />
in Europe is «The Jersey Boys», a show which has close ties to New York.<br />
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong> met up with Richard H. Blake who plays the role of Tommy<br />
de Vito. We asked him about the attraction of Broadway and the «Jersey<br />
Boys».<br />
The Broadway Collection<br />
The Broadway Collection brings together all the<br />
wonderful Broadway musicals and events<br />
in New York City. These shows are selected for<br />
their unrivalled popularity with international<br />
audiences. Its website provides information on<br />
the best Broadway shows on offer in New York<br />
so that visitors can make their plans before they<br />
arrive. Tickets should be booked in advance<br />
from one of the large tour operators. It is almost<br />
impossible to pick up a ticket at a bargain<br />
price at one of the TKTS kiosks when you arrive.<br />
So it’s worth doing your homework and<br />
booking now!<br />
www.broadwaycollection.com<br />
The luxurious way of life | 33
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong>: Mr Blake, how long have you been<br />
acting on Broadway?<br />
Richard H. Blake: This is my 15th Broadway<br />
show. Before that I was in «Wicked» and «Rent».<br />
I’ve acted in many excellent shows and now<br />
I’m delighted to be part of the «Jersey Boys».<br />
Broadway is a really tough business but the<br />
applause and the reaction of the audience is like a drug<br />
to me.<br />
And how long have you been playing Tommy DeVito?<br />
I joined the show a year and nine months ago. With eight<br />
shows a week this makes about 710 performances. But<br />
I’m still a newbie – some of the cast have already been in<br />
it for seven or eight years.<br />
Doesn’t it start to get boring, and as a musical performer<br />
is it possible to give your very best every<br />
evening?<br />
You have to give your best otherwise you’re in the wrong<br />
job. The audience expects this from you. Every Broadway<br />
production in New York is a huge financial investment. For<br />
example, the musical «Cats» swallowed up 1.2 million<br />
dollars in production costs in London but in New York it<br />
cost 5.3 million. Producing a musical in New York is an<br />
enormous risk compared to somewhere like London’s<br />
West End. Between 750‚000 and 1 million Dollars are<br />
required for a play of not more than seven actors in a single<br />
set cast in New York. Between 5 and 7 million are needed<br />
for an elaborate musical. Whoever takes the stage here,<br />
no matter how long this play has already been staged,<br />
has to do their best.<br />
But I love coming to work. I have a great job. And it’s twice<br />
as much fun in a show like this one.<br />
Did you know the story of the «Jersey Boys» before you<br />
took this part?<br />
No. I knew most of the songs, but I didn’t know anything<br />
about the group. Their story is really fascinating. They weren’t<br />
just musicians who came together to form a band but<br />
small town gangsters who had even done time in prison.<br />
They became pop idols because they simply had the right<br />
sound. It is interesting how many people know their songs<br />
without connecting them to the «Jersey Boys». Many of the<br />
songs have been remixed … Lauren Hill’s «Can’t take my<br />
Eyes Off You», «Begging» was sampled and just about<br />
every musician has covered «Oh what a Night».<br />
Are you originally from New York or did you come to try<br />
your luck here?<br />
I have lived in New York since the age of eight. I have lived<br />
in New Jersey for the last 15 years – so I’m almost a true<br />
Jersey Boy, not just on stage.<br />
What does Broadway mean to you?<br />
The past, the present and the future.<br />
And what does New York mean to you in three words?<br />
Exciting, wild and my home.<br />
34 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
Harlem: a centre for Afro-American culture.<br />
Schomburg Center for<br />
Research in Black Culture<br />
Anyone who is interested in Afro-American culture should visit<br />
the Schomburg Center. The Center’s key exhibits come from<br />
the private collection of Arthur Schomburg (1874–1938).<br />
As a protest against the belief that blacks had no history, this<br />
bank clerk from Puerto Rico amassed a vast collection,<br />
including 500 books, 300 manuscripts and 200 etchings and<br />
portraits. The building has an octagon at one end and features<br />
a tower at the corner of 135th Street. It was designed by<br />
Bond Ryder Associates.<br />
36 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
TO<br />
HARLEM<br />
New York’s fast<br />
subway trains – once<br />
immortalized by Duke Ellington’s<br />
«Take the A-Train» whisk their<br />
passengers from Times Square<br />
to Harlem in less than 10 minutes.<br />
This neighbourhood is mainly<br />
home to African-Americans,<br />
so it has an interesting<br />
culture.<br />
The Harlem Renaissance<br />
For many years, Harlem was known as<br />
«The Black Capital of America». In 1910<br />
Harlem’s population was almost exclusively<br />
black. A construction boom began after the<br />
turn of the century when a subway line was built<br />
connecting Harlem to South Manhattan. But noone<br />
wanted to rent the apartments that were built.<br />
So Philip A. Payton Junior, a black real estate<br />
agent, convinced the worried owners to let their<br />
empty apartments to the fast-growing black population.<br />
Writers, artists and musicians all moved<br />
into the neighbourhood, which had its heyday in the<br />
1920s. The renaissance of black consciousness<br />
was celebrated in legendary nightspots such as<br />
the «Cotton Club» and «Apollo Theatre» – though<br />
racial segregation meant that they performed exclusively<br />
for white audiences. After the Wall Street<br />
crash in 1929 the neighbourhood sank into abject<br />
poverty. Well into the 1980s, Harlem was synonymous<br />
with drugs, poverty and violence. At night,<br />
many parts of Harlem were no-go areas, but in the<br />
21st century it has experienced a second renaissance.<br />
Its cultural life has been reawakened and<br />
crime rates are falling steadily. More and more<br />
tourists are coming to explore the neighbourhood<br />
and now companies such as Harlem Heritage<br />
Tours and Harlem Spirituals are offering tours and<br />
walks around the district.<br />
Streetlife<br />
The luxurious way of life | 37
CULTURE & ART<br />
«The role of an artist in New York<br />
is to make a neighbourhood so attractive<br />
that artists can’t live there any more.»<br />
—Ed Koch, former city mayor of New York—<br />
Black Power in Harlem. The new black consciousness.<br />
Apollo Theater: a springboard for world stars.<br />
A Talent Factory<br />
We cannot fail to mention the legendary «Apollo<br />
Theatre». Until 1934 blacks were prohibited from<br />
entering the theatre, which opened in 1913. Despite<br />
this, the next 40 years belonged to Bessie<br />
Smith, Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington, Count Basie,<br />
Ella Fitzgerald and Aretha Franklin. In the Forties its<br />
stage was one of the homes of Bebop and New<br />
York-style jazz was hugely popular here. In the<br />
early Seventies it was turned into a cinema and<br />
then closed down in 1976. It re-opened after undergoing<br />
a total renovation in the 1980s. Its «amateur<br />
nights» are particularly popular, and budding<br />
talents have a good chance of being spotted, as<br />
this is how Ella Fitzgerald, Sarah Vaughan and<br />
Lauren Hill were discovered. And even on evenings<br />
when no new global stars are discovered, the<br />
atmosphere is still quite unique. The winner is<br />
chosen by the audience and as soon as an adult<br />
takes to the stage, anything goes: applause,<br />
heckling, whistling and foot stamping. When the<br />
audience doesn’t like an artist they simply boo<br />
them off the stage. The audience is king. Despite<br />
this, every year 1,500 hopefuls apply to perform at<br />
Amateur Night, and only a quarter of them manage<br />
to get on the stage. One of them who went all the<br />
way was Michael Jackson. In the late 1960s he and<br />
his family, «The Jackson Five», entered an Amateur<br />
Night and won. So it’s not surprising that thousands<br />
of his fans gathered at the theatre to mourn<br />
his death.<br />
Stirring Church Music<br />
Most gospel services are held in Harlem, the South Bronx and the<br />
black areas of Brooklyn. Of the most well known are the choirs of the<br />
Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem. It is the most famous of the<br />
more or less 400 churches in Harlem. The Neo-Gothic church was<br />
built in 1924 and provided the backdrop for father and son Adam<br />
Clyton Powell – the son was also a Congressman in 1944 – to deliver<br />
their fiery sermons. A gospel service is held here every Sunday at<br />
11 o’clock. But despite the gospel choir’s lively and stirring music,<br />
don’t forget that this is a church service, not a tourist attraction.<br />
38 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CUTS<br />
The Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty and Times Square were the stars<br />
of yesterday. Today visitors to New York make a beeline for the High Line,<br />
the new Whitney Museum and the viewing platform at One World Trade Centre.<br />
1 A NEW TREASURE TROVE<br />
The Whitney Museum of American Art in Manhattan is home<br />
to a major collection of American 20th and 21st century<br />
art. Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney founded the museum in 1931<br />
when she donated 700 artworks from her private collection.<br />
The museum’s mission is to «collect, explore, explain and<br />
question» American art with an emphasis on living, contemporary<br />
working artists. On 1 May <strong>2015</strong> the museum relocated<br />
to Renzo Piano’s new building in order to provide more<br />
space for the collection. The permanent collection can be<br />
admired in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. It comprises<br />
more than 18,000 works by over 2,800 artists, including<br />
Cindy Sherman, Andy Warhol and Louise Bourgeois.<br />
www.whitney.org<br />
2 A PARK ON RAILS<br />
Once it was a disused elevated railway track, today it’s a green<br />
oasis. Goods trains used to transport meat from A to B on the<br />
High Line. From 1934 to 1980 this is how goods were delivered<br />
to warehouses on Manhattan’s West Side. But it was abandoned<br />
after goods moved onto the roads. Today it is adorned<br />
with trees, lawns and flowers, providing the perfect retreat<br />
from the hustle and bustle of the city. New York’s green promenade<br />
is most definitely worth a visit. High Line Park can be<br />
reached by a stairway between 10th and 11th Avenue from<br />
Gansevoort Street to 30th Street on Manhattan’s West Side.<br />
www.thehighline.org<br />
1<br />
3 DO YOU HAVE A HEAD<br />
FOR HEIGHTS?<br />
Then head to New York’s highest tourist attraction! Now the<br />
city can be admired from 100 floors up. 14 years after the<br />
attacks of 11 September the viewing platform in the new World<br />
Trade Centre was opened to the public. It’s worth waiting in<br />
line just for the ride up in the elevator. It is a form of time travel,<br />
a journey through 500 years of Manhattan’s history, all in<br />
just 47 seconds. And when they get to the top, visitors can<br />
look forward to a truly unique view. The terrorist attacks<br />
of 11 September have been deliberately ignored. For this, there<br />
is the 9 / 11 museum, where thousands of objects from the<br />
World Trade Centre are on display, including the possessions<br />
of victims, eyewitnesses and helpers: shoes, hats, uniforms.<br />
At One World Trade Centre, it’s all about experiencing<br />
breathtaking views of the city.<br />
www.onewtc.com<br />
3<br />
2
CULTURE & ART<br />
With its 183 square kilometres<br />
and 2.5 million inhabitants, Brooklyn<br />
is the most densely populated<br />
district of New York. Here Chinese,<br />
Arabs, Africans, Mexicans,<br />
West Indians and Russians<br />
live on neighbouring<br />
streets.<br />
THE OTHER<br />
NEW<br />
YORK
CULTURE & ART<br />
Street art on every corner.<br />
«In my childhood no<br />
one committed suicide –<br />
people were far too<br />
unhappy for that.»<br />
– Woody Allen –<br />
Flea market in Dumbo.<br />
Before the New York boroughs were consolidated<br />
in 1898, Brooklyn was the fourth<br />
largest city in the USA. It was named after<br />
the Dutch town of Breuckelen. Brooklyn is<br />
one of the city’s liveliest neighbourhoods. This is<br />
down to its multicultural vibe, Coney Island amusement<br />
park and trendy Williamsburg with its little<br />
shops and factories.<br />
Brooklyn Bridge<br />
Just getting to Brooklyn is spectacular, as it involves<br />
crossing the legendary Brooklyn Bridge. As it<br />
crosses over the East River, the high walkway offers<br />
amazing views of Manhattan’s impressive skyline.<br />
The bridge itself is also a marvel of engineering.<br />
When it was completed in 1883, it was the world’s<br />
longest suspension bridge.<br />
It was constructed by the German engineer Johann<br />
August Roebling, who founded America’s first steel<br />
cable factory in 1841. His plan was to build the longest<br />
and highest suspension bridge in the world. But<br />
it would take another 16 years before his plans were<br />
approved. He was killed in an accident during construction,<br />
so he never got to see the finished bridge.<br />
His son Washington took over managing the project<br />
and decided to use the caisson technique. This involved<br />
anchoring large cases underwater to act as<br />
the bridge’s foundations. Air pressure prevents water<br />
from seeping into the caissons. The working<br />
conditions were brutal and many workers became<br />
sick with a strange disease. Today this is known as<br />
caisson disease or the bends, which occurs when<br />
divers leave high-pressure environments too quickly.<br />
Roebling also contracted this ailment. He suffered<br />
severe pains and was disabled for the rest of his life.<br />
But he did not want to stop construction so he<br />
monitored progress from his wheelchair. His wife,<br />
Mrs Emily Roebling, took over the supervision of<br />
the gigantic building site. She did the negotiations,<br />
enforced the quality standards of the Roebling<br />
company and dealt with a host of problems. Even<br />
today this would be a formidable achievement , but<br />
in the late 19th century it was quite unheard of for<br />
a woman. On 24 May 1883 the gigantic bridge<br />
was inaugurated with a huge celebration. Today<br />
more than 120,000 vehicles, 5,000 pedestrians<br />
and 3,100 cyclists cross the bridge every day.<br />
Art in Focus<br />
Brooklyn is also always worth a visit for art lovers.<br />
Over recent years a great many artists have settled<br />
in the neighbourhood. Old warehouses and workshops<br />
have been transformed into lively artist’s<br />
studios and renowned galleries. The district of<br />
Williamsburg is easily accessible by subway from<br />
Manhattan. Visitors can spend the whole day<br />
browsing round the galleries. And there are plenty<br />
of little cafés and restaurants when it’s time to take<br />
a break. In the evenings the clubs and restaurants<br />
offer a huge range of live music. Dumbo is also<br />
worth a visit. Brooklyn is home to the BAC gallery,<br />
the A.I.R. gallery and the Dumbo Arts Center, as<br />
well as one of New York’s most productive theatres,<br />
St Ann’s Warehouse. Dumbo actually stands for<br />
Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass and<br />
is situated between Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan<br />
Bridge.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 41
CULTURE & ART<br />
«New York is the only<br />
real city-city.» – Truman Capote –<br />
NYC’s most creative neighbourhood. No other district is home to so many young start-ups.<br />
Hipsters & Artists.<br />
Brooklyn has always cast a spell on artists and<br />
writers. A huge number of famous people have<br />
been born in Brooklyn or lived there for a while.<br />
They include Henry and Arthur Miller, Truman<br />
Capote, Woody Allen, Norman Mailer, George<br />
Gershwin, Barbra Streisand and the gangster<br />
Al Capone. Director Spike Lee uses Brooklyn as<br />
the local headquarters of his film production company.<br />
America’s best-known married writers, Paul<br />
Auster and his wife Siri Hustvedt, draw inspiration<br />
from Brooklyn for their bestsellers. Brooklyn is<br />
quite simply different. Vegetables are grown on<br />
factory roofs, the city’s coolest parties are held<br />
here and there are thousands of little start-ups and<br />
individual stores.<br />
Coney Island<br />
The five boroughs of New York including Manhattan<br />
could not be more diverse. In one, skyscrapers<br />
climb up to the heavens, in another you can relax<br />
and have fun on the rollercoasters and beaches.<br />
Coney Island is situated at the far south of Brooklyn<br />
on the Atlantic and is New York’s only ocean<br />
beach. Before the Second World War the rich and<br />
beautiful flocked to its casinos and elegant<br />
restaurants. It had every kind of attraction and<br />
the most luxurious bathing areas. But this<br />
luxury is now long gone. Those who can afford<br />
it have a house in the Hamptons. Today<br />
Coney Island is a place for cheaper pleasures.<br />
It is far removed from 1938, when James Agee<br />
described it in his travel journal as a nefarious<br />
immigrant neighbourhood. Today Brooklyn is simply<br />
hip and cool. Here you can find home-brewed<br />
beer from micro-breweries, hand-made chocolate,<br />
home- made cheese and miniature gardens in<br />
glass jars. Brooklyn is not only the home of the<br />
hipster, but also of digital doorkeys, home pickled<br />
gherkins, Schnapps and an attitude to life that<br />
encourages more and more people to go it alone<br />
and start their own business. Brooklyn is the<br />
neighbourhood where the movers and shakers<br />
and the new Bohemians meet.<br />
42 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Good Morning !<br />
london - new york - paris - Milan - berlin - Moscow - beijinG - HonG konG<br />
www.vispring.eu
REBIRTH<br />
OF A<br />
HOTEL-<br />
The «Knickerbocker»<br />
is an iconic landmark.<br />
Formerly known as the<br />
«42nd Street Country Club»,<br />
it was a meeting place<br />
for the rich and famous,<br />
such as Rockefeller<br />
and Scott Fitzgerald.
CULTURE & ART<br />
Chic, modern design meets elegant charm and sophistication.<br />
Location: The iconic building welcomes its famous guests in the heart of<br />
Manhattan, directly on Times Square, on the corner of 42nd and Broadway.<br />
Its convenient location means that guests at «The Knickerbocker» are just a<br />
short stroll from attractions such as the Metropolitan Opera, the Rockefeller<br />
Centre and MoMA.<br />
Rooms & Suites: «The Knickerbocker» offers its guests a choice of 330 rooms<br />
and 40 chic, modern suites. The nine Corner Junior Suites (55 sq m) provide<br />
captivating views over Broadway, Times Square and 42nd Street. The beautiful<br />
interiors offer guests the ultimate in luxury and privacy. It is hard to believe that<br />
the hustle and bustle of New York City is on the streets below your feet.<br />
The rooftop offers the best view over Times Square.<br />
The hotel opened its doors for the first<br />
time in 1906 on Times Square. Stars<br />
such as Enrico Caruso and George M.<br />
Cohan stayed there, and New York’s high<br />
society partied like there was no tomorrow at the<br />
legendary «42nd Street Country Club» bar. There<br />
was good reason why it was said that: «If something<br />
happened in New York during the early<br />
1900s, it probably happened at The Knickerbocker<br />
…» The hotel welcomed the rich and beautiful,<br />
artists and dignitaries. But the dream was<br />
soon over. The economic crisis meant that «The<br />
Knickerbocker» had to close down in the 1920s.<br />
But after more than 90 years, it once again opened<br />
its doors to guests this year. «The Knickerbocker» is<br />
a monument to New York’s evolution.<br />
Culinary Highlights: Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch or dinner, at «Charlie<br />
Palmer» guests can sample good honest American food prepared by star<br />
while enjoying spectacular views of Times Square. The dinner menu includes<br />
delights such as Fluke Ceviche with grated Meyer lemons and Atlantic halibut<br />
with asparagus and carrot puree. And of course there’s the traditional «Knick»<br />
burger with braised ribs, beef and pickles. «Jakes @ The Knick» is perfect<br />
when you are short of time. It offers a perfect Grab-and-Go option for guests<br />
on the move. The absolute highlight is the 725 sq m «St Cloud» bar on the<br />
roof terrace. It offers refreshing drinks and spectacular views over central<br />
Manhattan. Those lucky enough to spend New Year’s Eve here will enjoy<br />
having a close-up view of the legendary ball drop.<br />
Wellness & Spa: In «The Knickerbocker’s» Wellness & Spa area, guests can<br />
recharge their batteries and relax with a massage. Those who have a little<br />
energy left can join a class from Larry Johnson, the hotel’s fitness guru in the<br />
Fitness Center.<br />
Conclusion: If you were expecting a hotel steeped in history you’ll be disappointed,<br />
as nothing remains apart from the wonderful Beaux Arts façade.<br />
The hotel has a clean, modern look with a minimalist elegance that is perfectly<br />
suited to business travellers and today’s globetrotters. But despite this, the<br />
reopening of «The Knick» has revived a hint of New York’s charming old heart.<br />
www.LHW.com/knickerbockernyc<br />
The luxurious way of life | 45
CULTURE & ART<br />
THE<br />
DIAMOND<br />
THE NEW YORK<br />
HOTEL INDUSTRY<br />
The «Peninsula»,<br />
an Art Nouveau gem,<br />
is located in the heart of the<br />
Big Apple. The five star<br />
establishment is the epitome<br />
of glamour,<br />
luxury and service.<br />
46 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
Salon de Ning<br />
This grand dame of the New York hotel<br />
industry is now 110 years old. This building<br />
was built in neo-classical style for the astronomical<br />
amount of 2.3 million dollars and was<br />
opened as «The Gotham» in 1905. The facade with<br />
its limestone plastering, copper cornices and Doric<br />
columns was unusual at the time. It was designed<br />
to complement the adjoining university club. In<br />
1987 The Peninsula Hotel’s parent company<br />
acquired this grand building and celebrated the<br />
opening of the first Peninsula Hotel on the American<br />
continent in 1988. Ten years later, 45 million<br />
dollars were invested to give the building a complete<br />
renovation. In just ten months the turn-ofthe-century<br />
building was re-cabled insulated and<br />
redecorated using the most exquisite materials.<br />
Today the «Peninsula Hotel New York» combines<br />
Asian and Art Deco styles with state-of-the-art<br />
technology.<br />
Location: On Fifth Avenue in the heart of Manhattan,<br />
the hotel has the world on its doorstep: the<br />
most famous museums, the most exciting boutiques<br />
and the most spectacular skyscrapers. The<br />
Museum of Modern Art is just around the corner<br />
from the «Peninsula», and Central Park is just a few<br />
minutes’ stroll to the north. And the flagship stores<br />
of the best jewellery and fashion designers can be<br />
found on Fifth and the nearby Madison Avenue.<br />
Rooms & Suites: The «Peninsula» offers its guests<br />
239 rooms and suites. The jewel in the crown is<br />
the Peninsula Suite. Covering 307 sq m, it is the<br />
most luxurious guest suite at «The Peninsula New<br />
York», taking up most of the 19th floor. High above<br />
Fifth Avenue with a breathtaking view of the<br />
Manhattan skyline, the Peninsula Suite was completely<br />
refurbished in summer 2012. It has an urban<br />
New York style and offers the ultimate in contemporary<br />
comfort.<br />
Culinary Highlights: Culinary treasure hunters<br />
are also rewarded at the «Peninsula New York».<br />
The «Clement» was refurbished two years ago,<br />
and chef Brandon Kida serves his «farm-to-table»<br />
cuisine, meaning that all ingredients come from<br />
farms in upstate New York. In the atmosphere of<br />
a private New York home, he delights his guests<br />
with treats such as «Heirloom Beets» (creamy<br />
yogurt with a spicy root gazpacho in a light wine<br />
vinaigrette); «Scallop Degustation» (fresh scallops<br />
with black truffles, savoury celery root and<br />
«Woodlands» ham); or «Porcelet» (piglet served<br />
with caramelised apples, chestnuts and warm<br />
cabbage). The «Gotham Lounge» welcomes you<br />
to enjoy a high-class afternoon tea. American<br />
Sterling caviar and champagne are served in the<br />
chic Art Deco ambience. One of the most gorgeous<br />
views is offered by the «Salon de Ning» on<br />
the top (23rd) floor of «The Peninsula New York».<br />
Asian cuisine and Deutz Rosé champagne, specially<br />
created for the «Peninsula», can be enjoyed<br />
on one of the two outside terraces.<br />
Wellness&Spa: Shopping is tiring, but the<br />
«Peninsula» is there to help with its spacious<br />
3,500 sq m Spa Oasis. It takes up the top three<br />
floors of the hotel. Ayurvedic, Asian and European<br />
massages are on offer in its 12 treatment rooms.<br />
Take a swim in the 13-metre pool or jog on the<br />
machine while looking out over Manhattan.<br />
Conclusion: The hotel has earned every one of<br />
its five stars – and more! Its impeccable service is<br />
superior to all other hotels. The staff anticipate<br />
your every wish, and whatever you expect, you’ll<br />
get that little bit more. And this is exactly what<br />
makes the «Peninsula» one of the best, if not THE<br />
best hotel in New York City.<br />
www.peninsula.com<br />
The Clement: one of NYC’s<br />
top restaurants.<br />
Simple elegance in the master bedroom.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 47
IN THE<br />
TIME
CULTURE & ART<br />
PRES<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
Photographer<br />
Nadine Gliesche makes time<br />
stand still with her amazing long<br />
exposures. Maybe it’s just for a brief moment,<br />
but in her photographs time seems to slow<br />
right down, and often it’s quite surreal.<br />
She even manages to create this illusion in a<br />
bustling city like New York. <strong>PRESTIGE</strong> spoke<br />
with the photographer about the city that<br />
never sleeps and her passion<br />
for long exposures.<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
Nadine Gliesche<br />
The luxurious way of life | 49
CULTURE & ART<br />
W<br />
hen did you start taking photographs,<br />
and how did it come about?<br />
I discovered my passion for photography<br />
around nine years ago, but I only do<br />
it as a hobby.<br />
What do you like to photograph best of all and why?<br />
I love to do long exposures and also enjoy photographing<br />
city scenes and natural landscapes. What fascinates me<br />
about long exposures is the fact that can make the world<br />
seem to stand still.<br />
What did you like most about New York?<br />
I loved its fast pace. I decided it would be a huge challenge<br />
to use my long exposures to make the city that never<br />
sleeps go to sleep.<br />
How would you describe New York in three words?<br />
Life! Life! Life!<br />
Where does your love of long exposures come from?<br />
For me, long exposures are a kind of meditation. And<br />
once I discovered their potential, I just had to push the<br />
boundaries of this medium. I’m still pushing!<br />
Which camera do you use the most?<br />
Canon EOS Mark III.<br />
Photography is no longer about just releasing the<br />
shutter. Now we do a lot at home on the computer.<br />
What do you like most about photography?<br />
Of course I am really happy when I can convert the image<br />
that I have in my mind into reality. But I also like working on<br />
the images on my computer, because it allows me to relive<br />
the moment once again.<br />
What, where or who would you like to photograph<br />
and why?<br />
I would really like to travel to Iceland with my camera and<br />
photograph its waterfalls and hot springs. I’m really fascinated<br />
by the fantastic colours and nature over there.<br />
How many photographs do you have to take on average<br />
until you have the right image?<br />
It depends. When I photograph a sunrise I only have limited<br />
time because of course the sun doesn’t wait for me to get<br />
my act together. Then it’s very technical because it all has<br />
to be done in a few seconds. But otherwise I like to take my<br />
time. Sometimes I take loads of photos but never end up<br />
with one that I’m happy with. Then I just enjoy reality and<br />
leave it at that.<br />
What does photography mean to you?<br />
Meditation. Fun. A journey into the parallel universe.<br />
When someone looks at my photos, I want them to let their<br />
imagination take flight.<br />
50 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
The luxurious way of life | 51
CULTURE & ART<br />
The luxurious way of life | 53
CULTURE & ART<br />
Photo: 2012, Ascot Elite<br />
An attractive contract killer: Pitt in «Killing Them Softly».<br />
56 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
A<br />
FOR<br />
Brad Pitt is certainly an established film star,<br />
but he is still relatively unknown as a designer,<br />
architect and art collector. We reveal a few<br />
well-hidden secrets about the reclusive superstar.<br />
Dominique Zahnd<br />
Everyone knows Brad Pitt from his films – as a gentleman<br />
thief in «Ocean’s Eleven», a Nazi hunter in «Inglourious<br />
Basterds» and as a zombie killer in «World War Z». But<br />
what about his personal life? He tries to keep this as<br />
private as he possibly can, and admits: «I don’t really like leaving home». It’s<br />
just too much fuss. He also has problems recognising people, so he’s always<br />
afraid that he’ll be accused of being arrogant.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 57
CULTURE & ART<br />
Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt at the 64th Cannes Film Festival.<br />
Shopping tour in Basel<br />
He is a great fan of Switzerland. In 2008 he visited «Art» in Basel for the first<br />
time, where he took a particular interest in the antique furniture. He reserved<br />
a number of exhibited pieces and in the end bought a marble table<br />
in Rococo style by Dutch designer Jeroen Verhoeven for 300,000 Swiss<br />
francs. In 2009 he returned and bought a 2 x 3 metre oil painting by German<br />
artist Neo Rauch amount: 1 million Franken.<br />
58 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
First impressions<br />
The first thing you notice about the 51-year-old<br />
actor is that he’s taller than you expect. His blonde<br />
surfer hair is tied up in a topknot, his blue eyes<br />
watchful and curious. His face has its share of fine<br />
lines and wrinkles, but Pitt is aging well. It’s interesting<br />
to note that he has used the same make-up<br />
lady for the past 25 years. She says: «He actually<br />
wants people to see how old he is. I find that quite<br />
remarkable.» He’s not the man you read about in<br />
the gossip magazines. Indeed, Brad Pitt sees himself<br />
as just a «normal guy». He wakes without an<br />
alarm clock and is always the first up. After cleaning<br />
his teeth and enjoying the first coffee of the day,<br />
he gets breakfast ready for the kids – and for wife<br />
Angelina. At home he spends his days in slippers<br />
and overalls, «because they’re practical.»<br />
Family always comes first<br />
He’s loves to talk about his children. «I always<br />
wanted a big family», he says, «I like the noise and<br />
mess.» It’s never quiet in their house, there’s always<br />
someone shouting, laughing or crying. Brad<br />
is addicted to all this commotion. «I hate it when I<br />
have to go away without them», he says. «I need all<br />
this chaos around me. It’s what I love most.<br />
That’s why I’m happier now than I’ve ever been.» When Mom and Dad have<br />
to work, the whole clan usually goes with them. Pitt laughs: «Cars are never<br />
big enough for our family.» When they all go out together, they always use a<br />
rental car. «It makes it harder for the paparazzi to recognise us.» It’s quite<br />
clear how much he hates the packs of photographers.<br />
This large family has homes in California, Spain and Italy. For a long time their<br />
main residence was the Château Miraval, on an old vineyard in Provence. The<br />
chateau was surrounded by 300 hectares of vineyards and woodland. The<br />
family looked after the vines themselves, and in 2012 Brad and Angelina<br />
proudly presented their first wine, the «Miraval » Rosé. Apparently it was pretty<br />
good. «Wine Spectator» magazine ranked it among its top 100 best wines<br />
in the world, describing it as «elegant» with flavours of «dried red berries,<br />
mandarins and melons». The smallest bottle sells for 26 Swiss francs. It was<br />
Angelina Jolie who turned her partner into a family man. This glamorous<br />
pair think alike and share the same priorities. Their focus is always on their<br />
children, (at the moment they have six). Dad likes making things with his sons<br />
and drawing with his daughters. He simply likes working with his hands. When<br />
he’s not filming, he designs furniture and houses.<br />
He’s been nominated for four Oscars and twice been voted «Sexiest Man<br />
Alive ». But none of this is important to him, family is what really matters. And<br />
art. «I often visit museums outside their normal opening hours. It’s a great<br />
feeling when you can walk round the galleries on your own.» He is also a keen<br />
collector. On the walls of their various houses, the celebrity couple have hung<br />
paintings worth in excess of $25 million. They include works by Yayoi Kusama,<br />
Marcel Dzama and Banksy.<br />
Creativity is everything<br />
Brad Pitt sets no limits to his creativity, whether it is improving scripts or decorating<br />
his houses. He did much of the interior design for their house in LA.<br />
His love of detail is omnipresent. Director Andrew Dominik («Killing Them<br />
Softly») confirms this, saying: «Other movie stars’ homes look like beautiful<br />
hotel rooms. But with Brad, it’s all about art. Everything has to go perfectly<br />
with everything else. You immediately feel that you’ve entered his world.» The<br />
American has always been fascinated by beautiful objects. «I spent my very<br />
first acting paycheck on a restored, carved chair and a Frank Lloyd Wright<br />
lamp.» And he has been designing and making his own objects since the<br />
1990s. When he married Jennifer Aniston, he designed their wedding rings.<br />
And his love of architecture led him to spend time working with top architect<br />
Frank Gehry. He used what he learned to set up the «Make It Right» Foundation<br />
to help rebuild New Orleans in the wake of the devastation caused by<br />
Hurricane Katrina.<br />
Pitt enthuses about family life:<br />
«I like the mess.»<br />
The luxurious way of life | 59
CULTURE & ART<br />
Since then, Pitt has been working with a number<br />
of partners on the design of whole hotel complexes.<br />
But that’s still not all: in 2012 he brought<br />
out his first collection of furniture. It includes<br />
dramatic tables, elegant chairs, an exotic bed and<br />
a marble bathtub for two people. They were made<br />
by Frank Pollaro, whose New Jersey-based company<br />
specialises in reproductions of fine Art Deco<br />
pieces. The two met when Pitt asked Pollaro to<br />
reproduce a Ruhlmann table as a gift for Angelina.<br />
When he saw the furniture craftsman’s sketch<br />
book, he spontaneously suggested they should<br />
do something together. Pitt has often given Pollaro<br />
some surprises. Once he asked him to call round<br />
because he had a new idea for a table. And<br />
what did the furniture maker find in the actor’s<br />
studio? Forty different versions of the table made<br />
out of wire.<br />
The pair still meet up regularly to spend whole<br />
days and nights talking about ideas, designs and<br />
materials. «Frank and I have the same tastes. In<br />
furniture – and wine.» The striking thing about<br />
Brad’s designs is how he uses one continuous line.<br />
What was the inspiration behind this? «It started<br />
with my introduction to Mackintosh’s Glasgow<br />
Rose, which is drawn with one continuous line.»<br />
He is swept away by enthusiasm, talking about life,<br />
the beginning and the end and the road between<br />
the two. He loves to use a wide range of materials.<br />
But he has a few particular favourites, such as<br />
exotic hardwoods from Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann<br />
and Paul Dupré-Lafon. «I like materials that absorb<br />
rather than reflect light.» Brad Pitt is clearly someone<br />
who does his homework.<br />
Making films is his job, but designing houses is his vocation.<br />
60 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Understated British Clothing<br />
19 Piccadilly, London W1J 0LA<br />
0207 734 0830<br />
www.cordings.co.uk
CULTURE & ART<br />
Klimt, Schiele, Kokoschka<br />
women’s lib<br />
Photo: Private Collection, Courtesy<br />
Richard Nagy Ltd., London<br />
In the early 20th century the traditional relationship between the sexes was<br />
called into question by a series of social, economic and philosophical<br />
changes. Above all, the first stirrings of gender equality provoked some<br />
vehement opposition. Yet sexual liberation was to some extent a joint goal,<br />
because it was not only women who were keen to escape the strict<br />
moral taboos of the 19th century. Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oskar<br />
Kokoschka all tackled this topic, which at the time was generally described<br />
as a «woman’s issue». These three leading lights of the Vienna Secession<br />
all approached it in different but intersecting ways. The exhibition at<br />
the Belvedere in Vienna takes a close look at these differences and<br />
commonalities. It reveals new insights into relations between the sexes<br />
in the early 20th century and the origins of modern sexual identity.<br />
www.belvedere.at<br />
The Affordable Art Fair is a unique and truly amazing concept.<br />
It provides an accessible, inspiring environment for admiring<br />
or purchasing thousands of artworks, all under one roof.<br />
Everything from paintings, prints, sculptures and photographs …<br />
and no-one has to fork out more than 5000 euros for an<br />
original work by a young talent or established artist. AAF in the<br />
Netherlands is considered to be THE art fair for contemporary,<br />
original art. Its relaxed atmosphere means it is a comfortable<br />
place for budding art buyers, but it is also the perfect place<br />
for keen collectors to add to their treasures. Figurative or<br />
abstract, traditional or avant-garde, the AAF offers a vast<br />
array of works from numerous galleries in and around<br />
Amsterdam.<br />
www.affordableartfair.com<br />
Affordable<br />
Art<br />
Oktoberfest<br />
«O’zapft is!» It’s Oktoberfest time again! On Saturday Oktoberfest<br />
kicks off on the Wiesn with the traditional parade of the<br />
tent patrons. One of the highlights is the traditional costume<br />
and riflemen’s parade on the first Sunday of the festival.<br />
The Wiesn calendar is packed with music, raucous fun and<br />
the famous «Maß», the litre tankards of beer that ensure<br />
a boisterous atmosphere in the tents and on the surrounding<br />
fairground attractions.<br />
www.oktoberfest.de
Best sheep<br />
The traditional Shepherd Festival held in Schweigmatten/Furi includes a<br />
prize-giving for the most beautiful black-nose sheep and for Shepherd<br />
of the Year, who is crowned the previous day. It’s a day for admiring the<br />
most beautiful and best-shorn sheep. A varied festive programme<br />
guarantees fun for young and old alike. And of course Zermatt’s mascot,<br />
Wolli the sheep, will be there to celebrate his birthday.<br />
www.zermatt.ch<br />
CULTURE & ART<br />
AUTUMN DIARY<br />
Glorious<br />
colours<br />
«Indian summer» is how we describe the last warm days of summer as it slides into autumn. In Canada<br />
and New England the trees start to light up in every conceivable shade of crimson, vermillion, gold and copper.<br />
The glorious colours of these silent, vast forests are quite unique. Once seen, never forgotten! The colours<br />
often coincide with a period of clear blue skies and temperatures that once again rise to 20°C and above.<br />
Our mild autumn days in Europe simply can’t compare with North America’s Indian summers. European trees<br />
just don’t come close to producing such a huge range of intense colours. The origins of the expression<br />
«Indian summer» are not clear, but it seems likely that it stems from Native American mythology. One legend<br />
has it that when bears are killed their blood flows into the soil. The trees drink it up and it turns their leaves red.<br />
www.neuenglandusa.de & de-keepexploring.canada.travel<br />
Berlin illuminated<br />
For three weeks in October, the German capital will light up in a<br />
blaze of colour as night falls. Berlin Leuchtet and the Festival<br />
of Lights will both create a magical atmosphere to accompany the<br />
arrival of autumn in Berlin. Key buildings and seven commuter<br />
train stations around the city will be illuminated as part of the<br />
festival. It will even be possible to travel across Berlin on an<br />
illuminated train. It is planned to run seven tours taking visitors<br />
around the brightly-lit buildings.<br />
www.berlin.de<br />
The luxurious way of life | 63
CULTURE & ART<br />
THE HIGH-SPEED PAINTER<br />
FRANCK<br />
BOUROULLEC<br />
He is one of the world’s<br />
best-known speed painters,<br />
creating imposing portraits<br />
at an almost manic pace. His secret: he<br />
always paints his portraits upside<br />
down, so the end result<br />
can only be seen when he<br />
turns them<br />
the right way up.<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
Volvo Art Session<br />
64 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
Photo: Christian Breitschmid<br />
Franck Bouroullec has long been one of<br />
the most famous street artists. He began<br />
wielding his can of spray paint on<br />
the street when he was 16 years old.<br />
He went on to become a storyboard<br />
artist and animator. Today Bouroullec is a rock star<br />
in artistic circles – he has already painted big<br />
names such as George Clooney, Eva Longoria,<br />
Beyoncé and Roger Federer. Top global brands<br />
have also recognised the Frenchman’s talent and<br />
often book him for their events. His biggest project<br />
to date has been a work in Vevey in honour of<br />
Charlie Chaplin, which he produced on two<br />
43-metre high towers with a total surface area of<br />
1,600 m 2 . <strong>PRESTIGE</strong> met the French artist as part<br />
of the Volvo Art Session and talked to him about<br />
speed, performance and much more<br />
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong>: You have painted many portraits of celebrities.<br />
How did that come about?<br />
FRANCK BOUROULLEC: I’ve never sought to paint celebrities.<br />
I’m just lucky that they call me and ask for a performance.<br />
Of course I don’t say no. I admit I’m a popular artist,<br />
most people seem to like my work. And I often do<br />
paintings for the "elite".<br />
And presumably they pay you well for your work?<br />
I can’t complain, but I’m actually looking to do something<br />
else. I want to do something that will still be talked about<br />
when I’m no longer here.<br />
Why did you do that? Aren’t things going really well?<br />
Every week I spend hundreds of hours on planes. And I lose<br />
up to half a kilo every time I do a performance. I’m getting<br />
older, it’s time I looked after myself a bit more … I also<br />
want to focus more on my sense of social responsibility.<br />
You lose half a kilo every time you perform. I think<br />
that’s because you move about so much when you’re<br />
painting. Can you paint when you’re standing still?<br />
I can, but I don’t want to. I like painting with my whole body.<br />
I like throwing the paint onto the canvas.<br />
How would you describe your work? Art? Performance?<br />
Speed painting?<br />
Well, first of all I don’t think of it as work, but as a kind of<br />
passion. There are not many painters who dare to paint live<br />
and at speed. So what I do is something special. You have<br />
to stand out from the crowd.<br />
Is this why you paint your portraits upside down?<br />
Yes, exactly. Action painting, speed painting … they already<br />
existed, but is anyone painting upside down? Yes,<br />
me - Franck Bouroullec. It’s actually not as difficult as people<br />
think. You just have to hold your head on one side and<br />
move around a lot to distract people’s attention. That’s it!<br />
It’s all just a show. People have to see me at work…<br />
Do you still get nervous before a performance?<br />
Oh yes, very. Look at how my hands are shaking (he laughs).<br />
No, seriously, I’m really nervous before I perform.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 65
CULTURE & ART<br />
Every stroke of the brush is intuitive. It’s probably difficult<br />
for other people to understand what I’m thinking when I’m<br />
painting. I don’t think about the process. My goal is to<br />
finish in a particular time. Today’s challenge is to paint<br />
30 square metres and a car in 2.5 hours.<br />
What are you doing for the Volvo Art Session?<br />
For me, it’s always the journey that counts: my working<br />
process is a kind of creative brainstorming about contemporary<br />
luxury. Clashing geometric forms that eventually<br />
overlap tell the story of my creative process - like a culture<br />
that people still remember even when it is long gone. I use<br />
high-tech elements to highlight the intelligent way that the<br />
Volvo brand picks up on new technologies and continues<br />
to develop them.<br />
In art it is normal to reinterpret things in pictures.<br />
Some people can spend hours philosophising about a<br />
green square. What do you think about that?<br />
I put thought into all my works, but I hate it when I’m constantly<br />
expected to hold intellectual debates. For me, art is<br />
simply about being the first to have an idea. I’ve never seen<br />
anyone painting upside down, so it seemed like a good idea<br />
to try it out.<br />
But you don’t just paint upside down, you also paint<br />
incredibly fast …<br />
I began as an animator for Disney. I was drawing 60 pictures<br />
a day for 3 seconds of film - that’s had an effect on<br />
me. And when I was a young boy I saw an artist painting a<br />
portrait of Jimi Hendrix. His paintbrush was flying around<br />
all over the canvas. I found it really fascinating, and now<br />
this is how I express myself too. But I don’t just want to be<br />
known as a speed painter.<br />
In Vevey you have decorated two high-rise blocks in<br />
deprived areas. Why did you do that?<br />
I think you shouldn’t have to live in ugly surroundings just<br />
because you don’t have much money. A whole district<br />
can be upgraded simply by giving it a little colour and art.<br />
I decorated the two blocks with pictures of Charlie Chaplin.<br />
He died in Vevey and had close ties to the area. I met<br />
the Chaplin family beforehand and they showed me<br />
some pictures from their archives that I had never seen<br />
before.<br />
How long did this project take?<br />
I spent 8 weeks painting a surface of 860 square metres.<br />
I used 500 litres of paint and loads of brushes, rollers and<br />
sticky tape. Now it is the highest fresco in Europe. I think<br />
I’m now being taken seriously as an artist. The name<br />
Bouroullec is no longer only linked to design.<br />
Are you related to the other famous Bouroullecs?<br />
Yes, the Bouroullec brothers - Ronan and Erwan – are my<br />
cousins.<br />
Do you have any artistic role models?<br />
I don’t emulate any other artist in my work, but I do admire<br />
Leonardo da Vinci and Jackson Pollock.<br />
66 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
THE<br />
AMONG THE<br />
VIOLINS<br />
She nestles gracefully against your face, a capricious<br />
beauty ready to bestow a musical kiss. Sounds are teased<br />
from her strings, soft as the rustling of a poplar, wild as<br />
a tarantella, rocking out then wistful as they cast their spell<br />
over the listener. Violin makers have been crafting<br />
their masterpieces for five hundred years.<br />
Helena Ugrenovic<br />
68 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
Emilia Romagna is a fertile region that could be compared to<br />
a gleaming pearl necklace. It is the birthplace of famous<br />
personalities such as Luciano Pavarotti, Giorgio Armani,<br />
Federico Fellini, Enzo Ferrari, Ferruccio Lamborghini and<br />
Giuseppe Verdi. One of the wealthiest regions of Italy, it is<br />
also home to the white, brown and red gold that - just like<br />
the violin – truly beguiles the senses. Parmigiano Reggiano<br />
is the only food whose texture does not change when it is in outer space. The<br />
red terracotta buildings in enchanting cities such as Bologna and Modena,<br />
with their arcades and World Heritage treasures, have doors that open on to<br />
secret gardens and warm Italian hospitality. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di<br />
Modena or di Reggio Emilia – this dark brown delicacy is drizzled sparingly<br />
over just about every kind of food, sweet and savoury alike. The violin – an<br />
instrument full of secrets and stories.<br />
Where the nightingale sings<br />
It is said that Antonius Stradivarius would only use the wood of trees where<br />
the nightingale sang to make his unique instruments. In the 16th century in<br />
Cremona, a town in Lombardy close to the border with Emilia Romagna,<br />
Nicolo Amati and his students Antonio Stradivari and Joseph Guarneri del<br />
Gesùcreated masterpieces whose mysteries still inspire the quest for perfection.<br />
Where does their astounding tone come from? Is it the characteristic<br />
curve of the body that is typical of Amati violins, the choice of wood, its thickness<br />
or the legendary varnish used by Stradivari – but which no-one has ever<br />
been able to recreate?<br />
The luxurious way of life | 69
CULTURE & ART<br />
A heaven full of violins<br />
The buildings shimmer red and gold in the old town of Bologna, UNESCO City<br />
of Music. Bruno Stefanini’s workshop on the Via Delle Belle Arti smells of<br />
wood and dedication. Bruno Stefanini is one of five violin makers in Bologna.<br />
It takes him 200 hours of devotion to build one violin. So how do you create<br />
the perfect tone? «The quality of the wood, of course», replies Stefanini. «But<br />
also taking meticulous care with the varnish, the final construction and the<br />
adjustment of the instrument.»<br />
Brescia, Cremona and Absam in Austria were the birthplaces of Italian violin<br />
making and exerted a major influence over this art. Although Cremona is still<br />
considered to be the temple of violin making, cities such as Milan, Bologna,<br />
Florence, Genoa, Piacenza, Naples and Turin are also major centres.<br />
Lady Blunt Stradivari<br />
from 1721.<br />
The elite<br />
Stradivari and Guarneri have left the world exquisite violins that sell for millions<br />
when they appear in the sales rooms. The «ex-Kochanski» Guarneri del Gesù<br />
created in 1741 was sold in 2009 for 7.3 million euros. Stradivari’s «ex-Ries»,<br />
«Dolphin» and «ex-Szigeti», created between 1693 and 1724, went under the<br />
hammer for between 3.5 and 4.3 million euros. Guarneri’s «Lord Wilton»,<br />
«ex-Carrodus» and «ex-Kochanski» from 1741–42 sold for 4.3, 5.1 and<br />
7.3 million euros. The «Vieuxtemps» is currently up for sale at 20 million<br />
dollars.<br />
The absolute queen of these precious violins is the «Lady Blunt» Stradivari<br />
from 1721, which was sold for 11.6 million euros at a charity auction.<br />
70 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
COLUMN<br />
WILHELM J. GRUSDAT<br />
FROM THE LIFE OF A GALLERY<br />
OWNER: WE DO IT ALL.<br />
Dali literally possessed the key<br />
to a good night’s sleep.<br />
Whenever the Surrealist master<br />
needed a touch of inspiration,<br />
he took a little nap. He would sit<br />
down and hold a heavy iron<br />
key between his thumb and<br />
index finger. When he dropped<br />
off, the key would crash to<br />
the floor and wake him up.<br />
Einstein also used to do this –<br />
perhaps Dali stole the idea<br />
from him?<br />
In fact we spend one third of our<br />
days sleeping. Sleep is the most personal<br />
thing in the world. Apparently we reveal our<br />
personalities through our choice of sleeping<br />
position. People who sleep on their backs<br />
are full of confidence. People who sleep on<br />
their stomachs are control freaks, while<br />
those who sleep in the foetal position tend<br />
to be flexible and capable of handling<br />
everything that life throws at them. This also<br />
applies to couples’ sleeping positions.<br />
Couples have a good relationship if they<br />
still like «spooning». All other positions<br />
mean that the couple is gradually becoming<br />
more independent. When this theory first<br />
emerged some couples desperately began<br />
spooning, only to find they couldn’t sleep.<br />
Nothing is more individual than sleep.<br />
It is a remarkable state that has fascinated<br />
artists through the ages. Andy Warhol<br />
spent eight hours watching his boyfriend,<br />
John Giorno, sleeping. This produced<br />
Warhol’s first film, Sleep, which certainly<br />
had a soporific effect on his audiences.<br />
Nothing is more boring than watching<br />
someone sleeping. But a few years ago,<br />
crowds flocked to MoMA to see British<br />
actress Tilda Swinton sleeping in a glass<br />
box. Is there anything more wonderful<br />
than watching a beautiful woman sleeping?<br />
I remember Douglas<br />
Kirkland’s photos of Marilyn<br />
Monroe lounging seductively<br />
on her snow white sheets.<br />
Robert Rauschenberg used<br />
bed linens very differently.<br />
In 1955 the muse suddenly<br />
took him when he had<br />
no canvas to hand, so he<br />
simply used his sheets to<br />
create one of his first<br />
Combine paintings. His work<br />
«Bed» was a comment<br />
on the art world, which at<br />
the time only considered<br />
certain painting methods to be worthy<br />
of the name art. But it is also a self-portrait,<br />
as the rumpled bedding and crumpled<br />
pillows reveal an impression of the<br />
artist’s body.<br />
«Is there anything<br />
more wonderful than<br />
watching a beautiful<br />
woman sleeping?»<br />
Unfortunately we can’t all be like Marilyn<br />
Monroe and just go to bed in Chanel No. 5.<br />
They make me feel a little like Picasso,<br />
who loved to sashay around his Paris<br />
apartment in silk pyjamas.<br />
And if I’m lucky maybe I’ll find a<br />
scrumptious chocolate under my pillow –<br />
apparently this is how Cary Grant<br />
won over the ladies.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 71
CULTURE & ART<br />
ELITE<br />
UNIVERSITIES<br />
WHERE WORLD LEADERS ARE FORGED<br />
Top universities create the world’s elite.<br />
Lone K. Halvorsen<br />
2<br />
1<br />
72 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULTURE & ART<br />
There is tough competition for places at the world’s top universities.<br />
After all, the university you attended is a key factor when you’re looking<br />
for a job. They promise tradition, first-class research and teaching<br />
and exorbitant tuition fees. But tradition is also a harbinger of success. Students<br />
who graduate from elite universities tend to find themselves in demand in the<br />
international jobs market. And these universities provide a fertile breeding<br />
ground for future Nobel laureates.<br />
1 | Harvard University, USA<br />
Harvard is considered to be the cradle of the American intellect, the New<br />
World’s academic Mount Olympus. It is also the oldest university in the USA.<br />
It was founded in 1636 by Puritans who had fled England, and three years<br />
later it was named after English clergyman John Harvard. He was its first<br />
patron and benefactor, leaving his whole fortune and private library to the<br />
university upon his death. The university has produced more than 40 Nobel<br />
laureates. But anyone who is keen to attend seminars with such luminaries<br />
and enjoy cosy fireside chats with world leaders has to come up with something<br />
special in order to gain entry. The admissions panel is looking for visionaries<br />
and rising stars, but drop-outs can succeed too, as demonstrated by<br />
Mark Zuckerberg of Facebook fame.<br />
4<br />
3<br />
2 | Princeton University, USA<br />
Princeton was founded as the College of New Jersey<br />
in 1746. When the school was awarded university<br />
status in 1896, it was renamed Princeton University<br />
after its new location in Princeton. Its motto<br />
is «Die sub numine viget» («Under the protection of<br />
God she flourishes»). The university has close ties<br />
to the Presbyterian Church but no longer requires<br />
its students to have a particular religious affiliation.<br />
Albert Einstein gave lectures at the university,<br />
which has produced an extraordinarily high number<br />
of Nobel laureates in Mathematics and Physics.<br />
3 | Stanford University, USA<br />
With 22 Nobel laureates and five winners of the<br />
Pulitzer Prize, Stanford University is one of the<br />
USA’s top universities. A private university, it was<br />
founded by Jane and Leland Stanford in memory<br />
of their only son, who died tragically at a young age<br />
of typhoid fever. A self-made man, Leland Stanford<br />
entered the history books when he was elected the<br />
eighth governor of California. He became known<br />
for his outstanding intellectual ability and extraordinary<br />
talent for business. Stanford graduate Fred<br />
Terman later returned there to teach and became<br />
the university’s Provost. He came to be known as<br />
the «father of Silicon Valley». By encouraging students<br />
to start their own businesses in the local<br />
area, he laid the foundations for the close ties between<br />
Stanford University and Silicon Valley companies.<br />
4 | Oxford University, England<br />
Oxford is known as a city of learning and knowledge,<br />
home to one of the world’s oldest and most<br />
famous universities. The university’s history reads<br />
like a «Who’s Who» of prominent people: 6 kings,<br />
46 Nobel laureates, 25 British prime ministers and<br />
5 presidents have passed through its doors. And<br />
that’s without mentioning its many other great<br />
alumni, such as Lord Byron, T.S Eliot, Oscar Wilde<br />
and J.R.R. Tolkien, to name but a few. England’s<br />
two most famous universities, Oxford and Cambridge<br />
are embroiled in a centuries-old rivalry. This<br />
is played out every year on the Thames, with rowing<br />
eights from the two universities battling it out in<br />
the traditional «Boat Race».<br />
The luxurious way of life | 73
CULTURE & ART<br />
5<br />
6<br />
7<br />
5 | Cambridge University, England<br />
In 1209 a violent episode caused a rift between<br />
«town» and «gown» in Oxford. This led to many<br />
students and professors fleeing to Cambridge and<br />
setting up a new university. For centuries, Cambridge<br />
University has been a leading university in<br />
Maths and Science, so it is hardly surprising that<br />
its alumni include Charles Darwin, Isaac Newton<br />
and Stephen Hawking. Prince Charles also attended<br />
for a few years before continuing his studies<br />
in Wales. The eternal rivalry between Oxford and<br />
Cambridge is not just measured by who can row<br />
the fastest on the Thames, but also in numbers of<br />
Nobel laureates: Oxford has 46, while Cambridge<br />
can claim 88.<br />
6 | University of California Berkeley, USA<br />
Diversity has always been a cornerstone of UC<br />
Berkeley. It prides itself on its tolerance and political<br />
liberalism, its international student body and high<br />
academic standards. The main university rankings<br />
consistently list it as the best public university in<br />
the USA, and it is nipping at the heels of the<br />
smaller, elite private universities. The University of<br />
California, Berkeley, or UC Berkeley, was founded<br />
in 1868. Every year, more students gain their<br />
doctorates here that at any other university in the<br />
USA. It is known around the world for the excellent<br />
quality of its teaching and research, and many of<br />
its researchers and professors have won Nobel<br />
prizes.<br />
7 | Yale University, USA<br />
Yale University, USA Yale is not just a university,<br />
but an elite institution that is constantly admitting<br />
new generations to its ranks. When it was founded<br />
in 1701, its goal was to provide a scientific education<br />
comparable to that available in Europe, and<br />
increasingly it aims to produce the leaders of the<br />
future. Yale has a particularly good reputation in<br />
the Humanities and Social Science, though it is<br />
also strong in Natural Science. Yale graduates are<br />
following in the footsteps of many famous alumni,<br />
including Hillary Clinton, George W. Bush, Jodie<br />
Foster and 20 Nobel laureates.<br />
74 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
THE MOST FAMOUS VAMPIRE<br />
IN CINEMA HISTORY<br />
CHRISTOPHER LEE<br />
«Dracula», «The Curse of Frankenstein», «Star Wars», «Lord of the Rings»,<br />
«The Hobbit»: just a handful of the 280 films in which Christopher Lee - who<br />
died in June aged 93 - acted or played voiceover roles. He was showered<br />
with awards during his long career, and even given an entry in the Guinness<br />
Book of Records. He was one of the most successful actors of all time, with<br />
the most film and TV credits to his name. His greatest triumph came in 1958<br />
when he played Dracula in the film of the same name. He went on to make<br />
another seven Dracula films and gained cult status before finally giving up<br />
the role. Even today, Christopher Lee is still generally associated with the<br />
bloodthirsty vampire. At 6’5" (1.96 metres) tall, he was often cast in powerful<br />
or villainous roles. He felt the most important role he ever played was in<br />
«Jinnah» (1998), in which he played Muhammad Ali Jinnah, who fought for<br />
Indian independence and became the founder of Pakistan. Lee found it<br />
particularly interesting to spend ten weeks filming in a foreign culture and<br />
felt the film was important because of the way it approached Islam.<br />
4<br />
QUOTES<br />
He made his film debut at the age of 26 in the drama «Corridor of Mirrors».<br />
His big break came ten years later when he made a name for himself in film<br />
classics such as «The Private Life of Sherlock Holmes» (1970), and the Bond<br />
movie «The Man with the Golden Gun» (1974). In the late Seventies, Lee and<br />
his wife Gitte Kroencke, a Danish model and actress, moved to Hollywood<br />
with their daughter Christina. He spent 20 years working on numerous projects<br />
in the USA before finally returning to London, his home town. In 2009<br />
he was knighted by Prince Charles, the son of Queen Elizabeth, at Buckingham<br />
Palace. He was now a member of the aristocracy and could officially<br />
call himself Sir Christopher Lee. But he kept on working and soon became<br />
a familiar face to younger generations thanks to his work on the «Lord of the<br />
Rings» trilogy and «The Hobbit». Despite holding a world record and being<br />
the recipient of numerous awards, he never won an Oscar. On 7 June,<br />
Christopher Lee’s 68-year career as an actor, singer and autobiographical<br />
author came to an end when he passed away in hospital from respiratory<br />
and heart ailments.<br />
«To be a legend, you’ve<br />
either got to be dead or<br />
excessively old.» «Every actor has to make terrible films<br />
«What’s really important<br />
for me is, as an old man,<br />
I’m known by my own<br />
generation and the next<br />
generation know me, too.»<br />
from time to time, but the trick is never<br />
to be terrible in them.»<br />
«People sometimes come up to me,<br />
and they say, I’ve seen all your films, Mr Lee ,<br />
and I say, Oh no, you haven’t. »<br />
The luxurious way of life | 75
TRAVEL
HOLIDAY LIKE IN<br />
FAIRYTALES<br />
COME TRUE<br />
The Sultanate of Oman surprises you with its golden<br />
dunes, magical beaches and unique culture.<br />
The logo of the best kept secret in the<br />
Indian Ocean is «Beauty has an address».<br />
Text: Sara Berg<br />
The Luxury Way of Life | 77
78 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
he light from the setting sun paints the sheer never ending dunes<br />
a deep red. The biggest sandy surface cloaks itself in silence. The<br />
Omani smiles. He knows the Rub al-Khali like the back of his hand.<br />
The desert is alien to the visitor. It forces him to step outside<br />
the world of hustle and bustle and to go inward. The feeling is unique,<br />
Toverwhelming.
TRAVEL<br />
The Best of Both Worlds<br />
With its hustle and bustle, the capital reflects the past and the present of the<br />
country. Almost half of the Omani population lives here. The Omanis are<br />
proud of what they have built in the past 40 years under the reign of Sultan<br />
Qaboos: today they live in a modern state in harmony with their old traditions.<br />
So the capital Muscat offers the visitor best of both the worlds. A stroll along<br />
the seaside promenade promises a cultivated Mediterranean flair, exciting<br />
museum exhibitions and architectural masterworks from the past invite you<br />
to stay and linger.<br />
The Desert Lives<br />
The Rub al-Khali means «the empty quarter» in<br />
Arabic. An apt name, but the desert encompasses<br />
a large part of the Arabian peninsula. It is one of<br />
the few areas in the world that has not yet been<br />
fully explored. And that is what it makes it more<br />
appealing. The intoxicating view of the almost<br />
endless sand dunes, shimmering like gold in the<br />
searing light, makes the visitor pause for a moment.<br />
Stress and the hectic pace are forgotten, problems<br />
suddenly appear utterly trivial. As a visitor, you<br />
experience the friendliness, openness and the<br />
inner calm of the people of Oman when they<br />
welcome you. One is truly a guest here. Relaxing<br />
over a cup of tea, you get to know the unique<br />
culture of Oman.<br />
But even those who wish for more action during<br />
their holiday get their money’s worth in Oman:<br />
close to Muscat, the capital city, in the «Bawshar<br />
Sands», the sonorous sounds of the four-wheel<br />
buggies cut through the gentle silence of the desert.<br />
SUVs and quads make their way through the<br />
golden dunes and drive very fast through the fine<br />
sand. In the evening light, you can marvel at the<br />
white buildings of Muscat, which reflect the wonderful<br />
green of the surrounding hills and cloak the city<br />
in a mysterious glow.<br />
One of these buildings is the large Sultan Qaboos Mosque. Located directly<br />
on the main street, it exercises almost a magnetic pull on the visitor and brings<br />
him in contact with the spirit of Islam as a religion, science and culture. The<br />
huge prayer house, which took 6 years to build, has an area of 416‚000 square<br />
metres for 20‚000 worshippers to pray. The central dome of the main prayer<br />
hall rises 50 metres above the ground and has a stunning Swarovski crystal<br />
chandelier. It took 600 weavers 27 months to weave the Persian carpet that<br />
covers the floors. It has 1.7 million knots and weighs a whopping 21 tonnes.<br />
Non-Muslims are allowed to visit the impressive building: it is open Sunday<br />
to Thursday until 11 am. Please wear appropriate clothing. It is certainly<br />
well-worth a visit – so are the royal palace of Al Alam and the forts of Al Jalali<br />
and Al Mirani, which sit high atop rocks outside the city.<br />
Hustle Bustle in Market<br />
Traditions and customs run like a common thread through all of Oman’s landmarks.<br />
One however feels its traces very strongly in the oasis city of Nizwa,<br />
which was the capital and religious centre of the country in the 12th century.<br />
The magical city nestles in the middle of a breathtaking mountain landscape<br />
and is a cultural highlight of every visit. It is lively and colourful here – especially<br />
when the merchants tout their wares at the extraordinary souk. In<br />
addition to jewellery, traditional clothes, antiques and hand-woven Bedouin<br />
carpets, a very special souvenir can be bought here as a present for loved<br />
ones at home: the «khanjar», a curved dagger made of silver and ivory, which<br />
is still being made in traditional craft enterprises just as it was 200 years ago.<br />
It is not only a fashionable accessory but is an integral part of the traditional<br />
costume in the Sultanate.<br />
High above the city sits the largest fort on the entire Arabian peninsula. The<br />
fort is the architectural testimony to the economic and military success of the<br />
early Yaruba dynasty in the mid-17th century. Its watchtower has a diameter<br />
of 45 metres and towers above other fortifications by 34 metres. The steps<br />
concealed in the inner courtyard lead the visitor to a balustrade from where<br />
he can view the entire city. Nicely renovated quarters dot the shabbier streets,<br />
a symbol for the blending of the modern with the traditional. The view of the<br />
large Friday mosque with its golden dome makes up wonderfully for the now<br />
aching feet.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 79
aces, which are partly organised by the royal<br />
house, it’s not just the riders but also the powerful<br />
animals who compete.<br />
Beach & Ocean<br />
Time to relax on the beach. With its long, fine sandy beaches, tropical bays<br />
and towering cliffs rising from the ocean, Oman is an ideal place for those<br />
who enjoy being near water. Dhofar Goveronate is characterised by attractive<br />
beaches, noted for the purity of sand and magnificent cliffs. Hundreds of<br />
flamingos romp around here, which give the lagoons their gaudy pink look.<br />
Even many dolphins and whales are drawn to this coastal region. Porpoises,<br />
grey dolphins and beaked whales jump happily through the waves, while<br />
the visitor watches them spellbound, fascinated by the unbelievable beauty<br />
of the nature.<br />
The visitor also gets to experience the immense marine biodiversity: sea<br />
horses glide like magical beings through the clear water, gaily coloured corals<br />
nestle on the ocean floor, hundreds of colourful fishes float through the<br />
unspoiled depths of water. Those who come at the right time of the year can<br />
also marvel at the sea turtles making their way to the spawning ground.<br />
Thousands of marine reptiles migrate annually from the shores of the Gulf of<br />
Arabia, the Red Sea and Somalia to lay their eggs on the beaches of Oman.<br />
A very special attraction is night turtle viewing in the nature reserve «Ras<br />
Al Jinz», which is around 30 kilometres east of the city Sur. The reserve offers<br />
the animals a quiet place to lay their eggs, securing their continued existence.<br />
Camel racing is also popular and follows more<br />
or less the same rules. Camels, the «ships of the<br />
desert» have played a vital role in the region over<br />
thousands of years. They were used as a means of<br />
travel, for food and shelter, but have also being<br />
used for entertaining from time immemorial. Today<br />
camel racing has evolved into a professional sport.<br />
The Omanis use the latest technology and spare no<br />
expense to see their animal winning the title race.<br />
Golf is relatively a new sport in Oman. Muscat now<br />
has three 18 hole golf courses: Almouj Golf, the<br />
Ghala Valley Golf Course and the Muscat Hills<br />
Golf & Country Club. As the sport is becoming<br />
increasingly popular among Omanis and tourists,<br />
a few more Golf courses are expected to be<br />
launched in the future.<br />
Non-Stop Flight to your Dream Holiday<br />
Only six and a half hours of flight separate the<br />
grey everyday from the dream holiday like in<br />
1001 Nights: Oman Air flies four times a week from<br />
Switzerland to the Sultanate of Oman.<br />
Ships of the Desert, Thorough-Bred Riders and the Perfect Shot<br />
The passion for animals however does not just extend to the wildlife species,<br />
which enjoy special protection in Oman. In Islam, horses enjoy a special status;<br />
they symbolise integrity and pride. The Sultanate has many excellent horse<br />
studs and is famous for raising, breeding and devoted care. In the annual horse<br />
80 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
www.omanair.com<br />
www.omantourism.com<br />
www.omantourism.gov.om
THE MOTHER OF CHIMPANZEES<br />
JANE GOODALL<br />
In 1960, Jane Goodall, the primatologist, began to study the behaviour of<br />
chimpanzees in Tanzania. Jane Goodall is a peace loving, modest, energetic<br />
and, also, a determined woman, who decided to initiate an ethical revolution<br />
in some of the academic disciplines. In addition to Diane Fossey (gorillas),<br />
Biruté Galdikas (orangutans), she is one of the third women who began longterm<br />
studies on great apes at the suggestion of the paleontologist Louis<br />
Leakkey. It was hoped that these study could shed light on the behaviour of<br />
prehistoric humans. Now for the last 50 years, Jane Goodall has not only<br />
provided accurate scientific findings, but has also been a perfect example of<br />
how one should treat humans, animals and nature – our environment – with<br />
respect and love. Many findings on chimpanzees are attributed to Jane Goodall’s<br />
studies. She discovered that chimpanzees were capable of using tools.<br />
The chimpanzees break branches and use them to fish termites from their<br />
mounds. They also use stones as hammer and anvil to break open nut shells.<br />
In addition, Goodall also found out that chimpanzees<br />
eat meat and even hunt collectively other<br />
monkey species and attack in groups other groups<br />
of chimpanzees. Goodall was one of the first researchers<br />
who gave the animals she observed<br />
names instead of numbers. This practice did not<br />
meet with the approval of the scientific community,<br />
as it was said that the objectivity would be lost –<br />
and also because previously Jane Goodall had<br />
worked «only» as a secretary and a waitress and<br />
lacked university education. Since then, many scientists<br />
have followed Goodall’s example. Today<br />
Goodall supports alternatives to animal testing and<br />
is vehemently against any cruelty towards animals.<br />
5<br />
QUOTES<br />
«We need money to live but<br />
we should not live for money.»<br />
«The least I can do is speak out for those<br />
who cannot speak for themselves.»<br />
«If everybody would have the same standard<br />
of living like an average European or American,<br />
we would need six planets.»<br />
«If we take the future seriously,<br />
then we must stop leaving it to others,<br />
instead we must ourselves become active.»<br />
«You can change something – everyday and at any time!»<br />
The luxurious way of life | 81
IRELAND’S<br />
LIGHTHOUSES<br />
Ireland is an island, so it’s hardly<br />
surprising that you will find many<br />
lighthouses here. The real surprise<br />
lies in their fascinating histories.<br />
MIZ<strong>EN</strong> HEAD<br />
CLOGHAN<br />
CORK COUNTY<br />
Wild Atlantic Way is Ireland’s southernmost point. It is a place<br />
of extremes. In 1908, these proved to be deadly. Back then,<br />
«SS Trada» was shipwrecked here. On that day, the attendant<br />
lighthouse keeper and the workers saved 68 lives. Today a<br />
bridge with high walls ensures that visitors cross the tumultuous<br />
sea safely to reach the signal station.<br />
Also worth seeing: Treat yourself to lunch in Durrus, which is<br />
33.5 km away from the Mizen lighthouse. The famous<br />
Durrus cheese comes from this small village.<br />
BLACKHEAD LIGHTHOUSE<br />
WHITEHEAD BAY<br />
ANTRIM COUNTY<br />
Blackhead Lighthouse is located on the north shore of Belfast<br />
Lough. It is an ideal location to see ships such as the «Titanic»,<br />
the «Olympic» and the «Britannic» setting sail from Belfast.<br />
Thanks to the Irish Landmark Trust, you can stay overnight at the<br />
Lightkeeper’s House. Look out for the secret tunnel. During<br />
stormy weather, the lighthouse keepers used it as a passageway<br />
between the lighthouse and the house.<br />
ALSO WORTH SEEING: Titanic Belfast located 25.5 kms away<br />
from the Blackhead Lighthouse. The exhibition which has the<br />
same name as the city offers a stunning interactive insight into the<br />
myths and realities of the «Ship of Dreams».<br />
FANAD LIGHTHOUSE<br />
FANAD<br />
DONEGAL COUNTY<br />
Fanad Lighthouse was built in 1811. It was constructed in<br />
response to «HMS Saldanha» being shipwrecked. It is reported<br />
that only the ship’s parrot survived. Since then Fanad Lighthouse<br />
has saved many lives. If the locals are to be believed, the<br />
lighthouse is higher than the Eiffel tower. It stands at the west<br />
shore of the peninsula Fanad Head.<br />
ALSO WORTH SEEING: On the same peninsula, in Doaghbeg,<br />
stands the Great Arch, an impressive sea cliff with an opening<br />
formed by the Atlantic. So take your camera and take pictures for<br />
your loved ones at home.<br />
82 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
RUE POINT, RATHLIN EAST LIGHTHOUSE &<br />
RATHLIN WEST LIGHTHOUSE<br />
RATHLIN ISLAND<br />
ANTRIM COUNTY<br />
ERRIS<br />
MAYO COUNTY<br />
Sailors demanded a lighthouse on Rathlin lsland for the first<br />
time in 1827. Today there are three. In a cave under the<br />
West Lighthouse, Robert the Bruce, the King of Scotland<br />
from 1306–1329, is said to have learnt perseverance<br />
from a tiny spider. With its modest 11 metres, Rue Point,<br />
an unmanned lighthouse, is the smallest of the three.<br />
Also worth seeing: A colony of seals at Mill Bay and the<br />
RSPB Seabird Centre make Rathlin a favourite destination<br />
for animals and bird lovers. Here you can discover<br />
razor bills, puffins and kittiwakes, among other things.<br />
BLACKSOD LIGHTHOUSE<br />
3rd June 1944. Rough weather conditions prevent the Allies from<br />
start the D-Day landings. On 4th June, whilst the commanders<br />
are busy poring over each and every available weather report,<br />
information is received from a weather station on the northwest<br />
coast of Ireland. The message says that the weather conditions<br />
will improve. The decision is made. Two days later, landings are<br />
initiated and the Blacksod Lighthouse and its keeper<br />
Edward «Ted» Sweeney will go down in the 20th century<br />
history as a small but a significant footnote.<br />
ALSO WORTH SEEING: Céide Fields, 61 kms from Blacksod<br />
and just few metres away from the Atlantic. At 6000 years,<br />
it is the oldest «Stone Age monument» of the world. Houses,<br />
tombs and field systems stretch across over thousands<br />
of hectares.<br />
HOOK HEAD LIGHTHOUSE<br />
FETHARD-ON-SEA<br />
WEXFORD COUNTY<br />
In its almost 800 years of history Hook Head has seen<br />
many things. For example, it was named by the<br />
Lonely Planet as one of the 10 most beautiful lighthouses<br />
in the world. Records show that in the 5th century a<br />
Welsh monk kept a beacon lit here to warn sailors of<br />
possible shipwrecks.<br />
ALSO WORTH SEEING: Do we owe the phrase «by hook<br />
or by crook» to Hook Head and the small village Crooke,<br />
which lies 68 kms away? Some say yes. Visit the village<br />
and decide for yourself.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 83
TRAVEL<br />
GLORIOUS<br />
VIEW, STUNNING,<br />
Do you wish to cool off? Then dive into the<br />
most beautiful hotel pools, which blend<br />
with the horizon, which offer you breathtaking<br />
views of nature and the rooftops of the<br />
city – or are just fantastically fabulous The<br />
best part is you do not need to go on a<br />
world trip to enjoy these pools. They all are<br />
located in Europe.<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
1<br />
1 | PRIESTEREGG<br />
Loegang, Autria<br />
At at an altitude of 1,100 metres, the guests are<br />
a bit closer to heaven in the 14 metre long,<br />
heatable infinity pool of the Willy Bogner chalet<br />
and have a view of the mountains and the<br />
Leogang valley.<br />
www.priesteregg.at<br />
3<br />
84 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
2<br />
2 | PORTOROŽ AND PIRAN<br />
Slovenia<br />
More from the sea: «Lepa Vida», the thalasso<br />
open-air spa, which is located in a disused<br />
part of the saltpans, harnesses the healing<br />
power of the sea and creates a sense of<br />
well-being in the heated saltwater pool in the<br />
middle of nature.<br />
www.portoroz.si/de<br />
3 | DAS TEGERNSEE<br />
Tegernsee, Germany<br />
DAS TEGERNSEE is located on a southern<br />
slope with a magnificent view of the Tegernsee<br />
lake. Against a backdrop of the impressive<br />
mountains, the hotel and spa guests relax daily<br />
from 7:00 am to 10:00 pm.<br />
www.dastegernsee.de
TRAVEL<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
7<br />
4 | BARCELÓ ASIA<br />
GARD<strong>EN</strong>SHOTEL & THAI SPA<br />
Alicante, Spain<br />
No, we are not in Asia. Located on the Spanish<br />
coast, this tropical garden has seven pools invite<br />
you to cool off. These pools cover a water surface<br />
of 3500 square metres.<br />
www.asiagardens.e<br />
5 | HOTEL QUELLE NATURE SPA RESORT<br />
Gsies Valley, Italy<br />
Gsies Valley in South Tyrol is a true insider tip.<br />
Once you are in the natural swimming pond<br />
everyday stress ebbs away quickly. The pond<br />
offers a view of the surrounding Dolomites.<br />
Pure relaxation.<br />
www.hotel-quelle.com<br />
6 | BARCELÓ SANTIAGO<br />
Puerto Santiago, Spain<br />
The bathing belles treat themselves to a refreshing<br />
time-out on the volcanic island, which<br />
boasts a fantastic view of Los Gigantes and the<br />
soft murmur of the Atlantic ocean.<br />
www.barcelo.com<br />
7 | BARCELÓ RAVAL<br />
Barcelona Spain<br />
The spectacular roof terrace of the futuristic<br />
hotel delights you not only with a panoramic<br />
view of the Catalan metropolis, but also with<br />
a pool and a cocktail bar.<br />
www.barcelo.com/raval<br />
The Luxury Way of Life | 85
TRAVEL<br />
8<br />
8 | HOTEL MONTE MULINI<br />
Rovinj, Croatia<br />
Swimming fun in the sea: the pool of the five-star<br />
hotel Monte Mulini, located in the picturesque Istria,<br />
seems to blend seamlessly with the azure Adriatic<br />
Sea.<br />
www.montemulinihotel.com<br />
9 | DAS.GOLDBERG<br />
Bad Hofgastein, Austria<br />
Set against the backdrop of the Hohe Tauern<br />
mountains, the natural bathing pool with its white<br />
sandy beach invites you to beach clubbing –<br />
barbecue specialities and cocktails create the<br />
right mood.<br />
www.dasgoldberg.at<br />
10 | ADLER MOUNTAIN LODGE<br />
Seiser Alm, Italy The panorama pool lies suspended<br />
like a mountain lake over the Alpine<br />
meadow of Seiser Alm. The surrounding Dolomites<br />
reflect proudly in the heated brine water.<br />
www.adler-lodge.com<br />
9<br />
11 | VILA VITA PARC<br />
Porches, Portugal<br />
Surrounded by 22 hectares of a subtropical<br />
park with around 5000 palms, fragrant flowers<br />
and exotic plants, the residents of the Vila Praia<br />
completely lose themselves in their private infinity<br />
pool which faces the Atlantic.<br />
www.vilavitaparc.com<br />
10<br />
11<br />
86 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…?<br />
Invented in England<br />
In the 19th century, the English academics invented the name<br />
«Indonesia». Until then, the archipelago, which stretched from<br />
Asia to Australia, was called East Indies or Spice Islands.<br />
The game «Rock, Paper, Scissors», which is also popular among<br />
us, is played in Indonesia, but in their version, an earwig wins<br />
over the elephant and the person. The elephant crushes the<br />
person, the person crushes the earwig and the earwig crawls<br />
into the elephant’s brain and drives him mad. Indonesia has<br />
a total population of 230 million and is thus the fourth largest in<br />
the world after China, India and the USA. 47 million people<br />
live in Sumatra alone.<br />
In Search of Eternal Life<br />
King Qin Shihuangdi, the man behind the Terracotta<br />
Army and the Great Wall of China, could have<br />
anything he wanted. As the First Emperor of the<br />
united China, he enjoyed everything that the<br />
3rd century had to offer – ancient historians report<br />
that a 45 kilometre long and comfortable walkway<br />
led from his palace to the top of a holy mountain,<br />
while his doors were fitted with metal detectors. But<br />
there was one thing that he could not have and<br />
that is what finally killed him. When the king grew<br />
older, he sent hundreds of messengers to search<br />
for the elixir of life, but it was all in vain. Instead<br />
he took mercury tablets prescribed by his doctors,<br />
which soon poisoned him.<br />
Liquid Wealth<br />
In 1938, Kuwait’s vast oil field Burgan was discovered.<br />
This is the place where the oil flows so generously that it<br />
literally gushes out of the ground. It’s where the Arabian<br />
oil boom began. And although Kuwait is hardly bigger than<br />
Upper Bavaria, it still holds 10 per cent of the world’s oil<br />
reserves. Over the years, the nation has accrued 175 billion<br />
euros with its oil operations. In 1991, when Saddam<br />
Hussein retreated from Kuwait, his soldiers set fire to<br />
600 oil wells. Until the fires were extinguished, the wells<br />
burned daily approximately 950 million litres of oil –<br />
well over what was burnt during the entire three months<br />
of the «Deepwater Horizon» oil spill.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 87
INSIDER TIPS<br />
A journey to Vienna takes you to a cosmopolitan city with a historical<br />
flair. From cultural attractions to the legendary coffee culture, the Austrian<br />
metropolis has plenty to offer. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Schönbrunn Castle,<br />
the Ferris wheel in Prater, Vienna’s large amusement park, and Secession<br />
building are only some of the highlights of the city. In addition to visiting the<br />
Spanish Riding School, the Burgtheater and the Hundertwassser building,<br />
you are allowed to shop to your heart’s content.<br />
Daily Care with Style<br />
At Walter Weiss, the long-standing customers, quality-conscious buyers and<br />
nostalgics keep coming and going. Everybody is searching for «the daily<br />
care with style». You will be hard put to find so many shaving appurtenances<br />
anywhere else: bushy shaving brushes, all kinds of shaving creams,<br />
countless accessories for the classical wet shave or badger bristle shaving<br />
brushes for the sensitive skin. A gem on the shopping street.<br />
www.walterweiss.atwww.walterweiss.at<br />
Finest of Linen<br />
The company «Zur Schwäbischen Jungfrau» has a long tradition.<br />
It owes its name to a linen trader who moved from Swabia to<br />
Vienna in 1720. His three daughters sold the finest of linen at<br />
the market place. The company became the Imperial & Royal<br />
Court supplier and Sisi slept on lace bedding supplied by<br />
them. Even today it offers the finest of quality and the best of<br />
service. Spread on three floors, you can browse through<br />
linen and damask fabrics by the yard, kitchen, table and bed<br />
linen and terry cloth products. And even today it supplies<br />
to the nobility all over the world – for instance to the Malaysian<br />
royalty and the Sultan of Pahang.<br />
www.schwaebische-jungfrau.at<br />
Handmade for the Feet<br />
At Wieselmann’s, every customer receives his / her own shoe<br />
last und has to go for three trial fittings, but gets a custom-made<br />
shoe in return. Here shoes are custom made to last a lifetime.<br />
It takes up to 60 hours to make individual pieces, which can cost<br />
up to 3500 euros.<br />
88 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
www.wieselmann.org
Cabinets of Wonder of the Analogous Future<br />
Florian Kaps, founder of Supersense, is the saviour of the analogous image<br />
culture. He obtained the last of the Polaroid factory in the Netherlands.<br />
In his shop in Leopoldstadt, you can buy nostalgic cameras and films rolls.<br />
You will find pretty souvenirs stacked next to the Super-8 cameras and<br />
Polaroid film rolls. You can record your own vinyl single in a small recording<br />
studio for 15 euros. The analogous world lives on!<br />
www.supersense.com<br />
Stamped<br />
In Stempel Lobenhofer, one is surrounded by nostalgic numbering<br />
machines, hand stamps, bread stamps on wood pegs and enamel signs.<br />
The company has been family-owed since 1912 and is devoted primarily<br />
to the profession of flexography and engraving. Upon request, individual<br />
pieces can be manufactured. There are no bounds to creativity.<br />
Address: Hofmühlgasse 1, 1060 Vienna<br />
The Unusual Shopping Guide!<br />
Vienna proves that cliches about<br />
it are correct: grumpy waiters,<br />
horse-drawn carriages, enormous<br />
schnitzel, souvenirs of Sisi at<br />
every second corner. But in reality<br />
it is much more than that, because<br />
Vienna is different – that’s the<br />
slogan of the city. Many specialised<br />
companies with a long<br />
tradition can still be found in the<br />
winding lanes, creative young<br />
people are taking over vacant<br />
business premises. An attractive<br />
blend, which underlines Vienna’s<br />
slogan and merges development<br />
with the past. The new Vienna<br />
stands apart from the large<br />
shopping streets.<br />
Flag Twirling<br />
If you are looking for banners, streamers, table banner or flags, then<br />
Fahnen Christl is the right place to visit. Whether for patriots, national<br />
holidays or pirate flags for the kids, this is the right address for you.<br />
In this small shop, you will find over 200 different flags and many<br />
colourful patches. By the way: while the national flag is one of a kind,<br />
other flags are replaceable and can be manufactured in different sizes.<br />
111 shops in Vienna that you<br />
have to experience<br />
Katrin Hofmann<br />
Emons: Publisher<br />
www.fahnenchristl.at<br />
The luxurious way of life | 89
A JOURNEY TO<br />
PARADISE<br />
MALDIVES
TRAVEL<br />
Around 1,200 islands and islets are spread<br />
over 21 atolls. Approximately 235 islands<br />
are inhabited. The Maldives is unique in<br />
every way – both under water and on land.<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
It is heaven on earth – and the Garden of Eden under water. The<br />
Maldives is an archipelago with names which the visitors do not find<br />
easy to pronounce: Ihavandippholu, Maamakunudhu, Kaashidhu,<br />
Alifushi or Haddunmath. The names may be difficult for Europeans to pronounce,<br />
but it is easy to relax here: the snow-white sand beaches, deep green<br />
palm groves, and fragrance of flowers are the backdrop of the small islands<br />
and their resorts, where you can indulge yourself.<br />
Small Paradise Islands<br />
Each island is a small kingdom, whose large, colourful treasure chambers<br />
open up when you go diving and snorkelling. In the reefs, colourful fishes<br />
entertain themselves in unusual shaped corals and flower gardens – a magnificent<br />
spectacle, which surpasses every fantasy. Unforgettable impressions:<br />
manta rays silently glide past divers like bizarre shadows. Large schools of<br />
fishes performing an exclusive ballet, which is perfect in its choreography, just<br />
for snorkellers. In addition to all of this, the large, gentle whale sharks make<br />
their way unperturbed.<br />
When one lands in Malé, one is a bit disoriented at first. High-rise buildings,<br />
heavy traffic – an island that seems to be bursting at its seams. The capital<br />
city of the Republic is efficient and far from the picturesque beaches and<br />
dreams of holidays. But a short flight to the neighbouring atolls allows the<br />
visitors to dive into an entirely different world. Glittering water, palm trees that<br />
lean picturesquely over the beaches, luxury resorts and hotels in which the<br />
staff can ostensibly cater to your every whim. From the small hideaway to the<br />
luxurious resort with an underwater restaurant leaves no wish unfulfilled. Wellness<br />
and finest of cuisine, nothing spoils the ambience. Simply unforgettable:<br />
the Indian Ocean shimmers in many shades of turquoise, the clear flat white<br />
beaches lead to crystal-clear water and the sky is a perfect blue – until the<br />
sun dramatically sinks into the ocean and the stars appear in the night sky.<br />
In short, when it comes to holidays, the Maldives is the crème de la crème –<br />
whether over or under water.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 91
PER AQUUM<br />
NIYAMA<br />
Niyama, the lifestyle resort, presents<br />
itself as a resort which has an<br />
extravagant design and an innovative<br />
concept. Everyone who spend their<br />
holidays here are hip and are happy to<br />
show what they possess.<br />
The Per AQUUM Niyama is unlike other resorts in the Maldives. Although<br />
like many other hotels, it also upholds the original Maldivian values, it offers<br />
lot more to its guests than just a romantic getaway, i. e. an exciting blend of<br />
relaxation, adventure, inspiration and entertainment.<br />
LOCATION: The resort lies in the southwestern part of the Maldives in the<br />
Dhaalu Atoll on the idyllic islands of Embudhufushi and Olhuveli. From the Malé<br />
International Airport, you can reach it via a seaplane in around 40 minutes.<br />
ACCOMMODATION: The resort consists of 134 Studios and pavilions in eight<br />
different categories. The motto here is: «He who has a choice has a torment».<br />
One is spoilt for choice, as first one must decide whether one wishes to stay<br />
directly at the beach or rather in an overwater accommodation facing the Indian<br />
Ocean. It is purely a matter of taste; some prefer the unique closeness to water<br />
and others would rather have sand under their feet. All accommodation provide<br />
modern amenities but are decorated in traditional warm colours. In contrast to<br />
the resort’s traditional architecture, which fits harmoniously into the heavenly<br />
Maldivian landscape, the interior design and infrastructure are in a class of<br />
their own. Ultimate comfort ranks first. Starting from deluxe furnishings and<br />
technology through butler service to your own in-room deli.<br />
92 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
TRAVEL<br />
HIGHLIGHTS:<br />
➧ The 24 hour «LIME Spa» is the<br />
only spa in the Maldives which<br />
has overwater treatment rooms.<br />
➧ The first underwater night club<br />
in the world.<br />
➧ Restaurant on the open sea,<br />
which is only accessible by boat.<br />
➧ Hotel-owned marine biology<br />
research station and diving<br />
reef with wrecks.<br />
Mediterranean delicacies. The «Epicure» on the<br />
«Chill» island offers whole day international culinary<br />
delights, which are also available as takeaways. For<br />
evenings, we recommend the rooftop bar «Fahrenheit»<br />
with its spectacular sunset views. The canopy<br />
restaurant «Tribal» provides South and East African,<br />
Asian and South American cuisine – including show<br />
cooking on hot stones or over open fire. A special<br />
highlight is the «Niyama’s Signature Restaurant<br />
Edge». Located 500 metres from the island, it<br />
seems to float over water and can only be reached<br />
by boat. Eight metres below it is the world’s first<br />
underwater club «Subsix», where regular events<br />
and internationally renowned DJs ensure a wonderful<br />
atmosphere. Party while being surrounded by<br />
turtles, rays, sharks and sailfishes.<br />
The restaurant «Nest» has recently opened – the<br />
first tree house restaurant in the Maldives. It is<br />
erected on stilts in old Banyan trees and can be<br />
reached via wooden paths and steps. Here, in the<br />
middle of nature, you can enjoy the finest of Asian<br />
cuisine from Thai specialities to Teppanyaki.<br />
The villas have a terrace with a seating area, a semi-open bathroom with a<br />
bathtub, covered and open-air shower. The Beach Studios (160 m²) are situated<br />
directly on the lagoon. They have a living/bedroom, a bathroom and a private<br />
garden facing the Indian Ocean. Some also have a private pool and direct<br />
access to the beach. The Water Studios with Pool (180 m²) are built on stilts<br />
over the sea and provide an unspoilt panoramic view. The Deluxe Water Studios<br />
(200 m²) also have the same features as the Water Studios but has a larger<br />
outdoor area. The Water Pavilions (255 m²) and Ocean Pavilions (2BR / 350 m²)<br />
are also built over water. In addition, they also have a large eating area, deli-in,<br />
a wine cellar, a Teppanyaki grill, a small open-air cinema, a working area and<br />
a pool.<br />
OUR FAVOURITE ACCOMMODATION: The 2 Bedroom Beach Pavilion<br />
(350 m²). It has a separate living area, a private pool and direct beach access.<br />
T hese are the kind of places where one imagines that rock stars relax! And<br />
perhaps that’s why an e-guitar is part of the décor.<br />
CUISINE: Good food naturally goes together with such an accommodation<br />
and it is also provided. The hotel has five restaurants and two bars. At the<br />
pool of the «Play» island, the family restaurant «BLU» spoils you all day with<br />
SPECIAL: Families with children prefer the «Play»<br />
island, while honeymoon couples and those seeking<br />
relaxation like it on the «Chill» island. Because of<br />
the two islands, Niyama has also become a perfect<br />
places for families with children. The heart of the<br />
«Play» island is the large infinity pool equipped with<br />
a pool for children. Located directly on the beach,<br />
it invites the small guests to splash around to their<br />
heart’s content, while their parents relax in cabanas<br />
and allow themselves to be pampered by the sun<br />
butler. The children’s club «Explorers» offers daily<br />
fun and action-packed adventures for guests aged<br />
between 12 months and 12 years. NIYAMA is the<br />
only club in the Maldives that even offers a kid’s<br />
club for children below three years of age, which<br />
scores with its special feature such as a sleeping<br />
area. A bridge connects the «Play» island with the<br />
Niyama island «Chill». This allows the guests to<br />
make the best use of the activity programme and<br />
other facilities of both the islands. Despite the many<br />
children, NIYAMA lives up to its name – which<br />
means «travel peacefully».<br />
The luxurious way of life | 93
TRAVEL<br />
ANANTARA<br />
KIHAVAH VILLAS<br />
The luxury retreat on the lush green island of Kihavah<br />
Huravalhi impresses you with its gourmet concept<br />
and architectural details. Anyone who spends<br />
their holidays here, just enjoys it. A genuine paradise<br />
full of luxury and calm.<br />
The Anantara Kihavah Villas stands for<br />
uniqueness. Where else can you dine in an<br />
underwater restaurant built in a natural reef<br />
and where else can you dine surrounded by the<br />
biodiversity of the Indian Ocean? Where else are<br />
you surrounded by coral reefs and a blue lagoon?<br />
Where else can you enjoy utmost luxury and a high<br />
level of privacy?<br />
LOCATION: The Kihavah Villas belong to the<br />
famous Anantara Group and is located on the lush<br />
tropical island of Kihavah Huravalhi in the Baa Atoll.<br />
From Malé, you can reach it in 35 minutes by<br />
a seaplane.<br />
ACCOMMODATION: The 78 pool villas, which<br />
are between 260 and 2738 square metres, nestle<br />
among the lush vegetation at the beach or poise<br />
over the turquoise ocean. In addition to their own<br />
94 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
TRAVEL<br />
HIGHLIGHTS:<br />
➧ The underwater restaurant «Sea» featuring the only<br />
underwater wine cellar in the Maldives. Here wine lovers<br />
can find over 6500 fine wine from 14 countries.<br />
➧ An Anantara spa over the lagoon as well as one of the<br />
largest pools in the Maldives.<br />
➧ It’s own Coral Adoption Programme.<br />
➧ With its 49 metres, the pool is the longest in the Maldives<br />
and has its own sunshine butler.<br />
➧ House reef is approximately 50 metres away.<br />
pools and breathtaking views, the Water Villas offer<br />
two special features – bathtubs and even<br />
toilets with glass floors through which you can<br />
marvel at the colourful underwater world. In contrast,<br />
the Beach Villas stand out because of their<br />
charming details such as the large outdoor bathtubs<br />
with in-built wine chiller or palm trees that<br />
grow through the roofs of the rooms. All villas are<br />
open plan and have their own pools and large sun<br />
terraces with comfortable swings or hammocks.<br />
The very large villas offer maximum comfort, and<br />
yet because of their Indian, Moroccan or tropical<br />
decor they always appear to be pleasant. These<br />
villas have private pools and daybeds on the<br />
terrace or under a pavilion. The four residences,<br />
each with two bedrooms, a separate living area<br />
and spaciousness for every guest, are particularly<br />
suitable for families. The «Presidential Beach<br />
Residence» with its 2700 m², two private infinity<br />
pools, two Jacuzzis, a spacious living area and<br />
a shady pavilion along a 76 metre long private<br />
strip of beach is particularly suitable for groups of<br />
friends.<br />
OUR FAVOURITE ACCOMODATION: The Overwater<br />
Pool Residence (861 m²), which has the<br />
same features as the Overwater Pool Villa, but has<br />
an additional bedroom and bathroom, a separate<br />
living area, a 24-hour butler service and a large<br />
pool (5 x 9 m). The villa is located on the sunrise<br />
side. It is built on stilts over the crystal-clear lagoon<br />
and has steps that lead directly to the ocean.<br />
CUISINE: The luxury island Anantara Kihavah<br />
also presents its best side when it comes to the<br />
cuisine. The restaurants «Sea, Fire, Salt, Sky» and «Plates» and «Manzaru»<br />
ensure that you are well taken care of with their exquisite food. The main<br />
restaurant «Plates» provides Maldivian specialities for breakfast and dinner.<br />
«Manzaru» offers wonderful Mediterranean dishes. The concept of dining is<br />
based on the four elements and thus «Fire» offers Asian cuisine. The «Salt»<br />
restaurant prepares dishes on a Himalayan stone, which lends them a special<br />
aroma; in the «Sea» restaurant you can dine under water. For a nightcap, the<br />
Bar «Sky» invites you to enjoy the evening with a fantastic view of the Baa<br />
Atoll.<br />
SPECIAL: Baa Atoll, where usually not a lot of diving takes place, offers the<br />
right diving spot to suit every taste. A special highlight is the 12.5 metres long<br />
Thila, where you can often watch grey reef sharks. The abundance of fish in<br />
this untouched area is breathtaking – giant marine turtles and eagle rays are<br />
not uncommon here. The Baa Atoll is impressive mainly because of its diversity<br />
and the fine quality of the different coral species, especially the magnificent<br />
soft corals. There are still new diving spots to be discovered from where<br />
nobody has dived yet.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 95
TEA SHOPS & PORT LIFE<br />
With a diameter of two kilometres and over 100‚000 inhabitants, Malé is one<br />
of the most densely populated places in the world. Approximately one-fourth<br />
of the Maldivians live here. Although Malé is by no means a paradise island,<br />
which holiday makers would seek, it is still well worth a visit to experience<br />
the bustling streets, the national museum and the Friday mosque. One can<br />
only experience here the authentic daily life of Maldivians: afternoons at<br />
the port, when the fishermen arrive from the remote atolls and unload their<br />
catch of the day. Dhonis, the traditional fishing boats, stand fully loaded<br />
next to one each other at the quay, fishes are stacked on the tables and the<br />
hustle and bustle begins. Fishermen, traders, young people and business<br />
men also meet in tea shops – a kind of a bar for the Maldivians, but where<br />
absolutely no alcohol is served. Here you get an interesting insight into<br />
the daily Maldivian life. One can also eat here cheaply and to one’s fill of rice,<br />
baked aubergines with vegetable, meat and fish balls. The oldest building,<br />
which is also steeped in history, is the Hukuru Miskiiy, the Friday Mosque.<br />
But non-Muslims who wish to visit the inner rooms can only do so after<br />
having obtained special permission.<br />
SHARK ALARM OR<br />
ALARM FOR SHARKS?<br />
Ever since there has been tourism in the<br />
Maldives, there have been no shark attacks<br />
on swimmers. The fear of the sharks is<br />
therefore unfounded. There are 50 known<br />
shark species in the Maldives. But humans<br />
are a far greater threat to sharks than<br />
vice versa. Every year, humans catch around<br />
100 million sharks, i.e. three sharks are<br />
caught every second. They fall victim to<br />
sport fishermen or natural medicine or<br />
die in nets. 69 shark species have therefore<br />
been classified as endangered. And<br />
should these really become extinct, the<br />
entire equilibrium of the oceans will be<br />
turned upside down.<br />
THE BOAT OF THE MALDIVIANS<br />
The Dhoni is the traditional transport of the Maldivians.<br />
Originally, the boats were used for fishing and to transport<br />
goods. Building Dhonis is the most important craft for the<br />
Maldivians. For centuries, Dhoni has remained largely<br />
unchanged. The ship hulls were made of coconut palm<br />
timber which is very hard and difficult to process, so that<br />
Dhonis could adapt perfectly to the water and weather<br />
conditions of the Maldivian atolls. The wood is so resilient<br />
and elastic that even if the boats were to collide with the<br />
coral reefs, which are often very shallow and lie below the<br />
ocean surface, it would get not damaged.<br />
96 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
COLUMN<br />
JASMIN TAYLOR<br />
Proprietor of the Travel Company JT Touristik:<br />
A TRIP TO THE COLOURED<br />
EARTH OF MAURITIUS<br />
It is not for nothing that Mauritius<br />
is one of the top travel destinations<br />
on this earth. Many travellers<br />
dream of coming here at least<br />
once in their lifetime. As part<br />
of a marketing campaign last year,<br />
we invited a number of travel<br />
experts to discover the highlights<br />
of this exotic island nation. In<br />
the run-up to the trip, their task<br />
was to design a unique summer<br />
outfit. Those who got the most<br />
votes from their fans secured a<br />
place for the trip.<br />
Even I was just as thrilled as the guests to<br />
visit Mauritius. As the name implies, at<br />
the museum «L’Aventure du Sucre», it’s all<br />
«Pink hues characterise<br />
the corporate image of my<br />
own tour company –<br />
all the more reason for<br />
my being impressed<br />
by the corresponding<br />
colours.»<br />
about sugar and its significance as the<br />
«white gold» for the people and their history<br />
here – in particular for their rum production.<br />
For this reason, a visit to the country would<br />
have been incomplete without the requisite<br />
tasting. In Port Louis, the capital city, we<br />
also enjoyed shopping at the Caudan<br />
Waterfront and picked up unique handicrafts<br />
as souvenirs at the Craft Market, which<br />
is close-by.<br />
I was delighted by the cultural diversity<br />
of the island. For instance, a visit to the Tamil<br />
temple revealed the influence<br />
of Hinduism.<br />
In contrast, the Eureka<br />
House bears eloquent<br />
witness to the colonial<br />
heritage. Generally, the<br />
different cultures here<br />
live side by side and make<br />
Mauritius a real melting<br />
pot. This is reflected not only<br />
in the architecture but also<br />
in the versatile Creole cuisine,<br />
which is full of influences<br />
from various countries. The<br />
Mauritian landscape is just<br />
as impressive as the culture and the cuisine, for<br />
instance, the imposing Chamarel Waterfall<br />
located in the southwest reaches of the island,<br />
which would almost<br />
make it into a movie as an exotic backdrop.<br />
What I really liked was the «coloured earth».<br />
The earth appears in different shades of colour,<br />
which evolve through conversion of lava to<br />
clay minerals. Pink hues characterise the<br />
corporate image of my own tour company –<br />
all the more reason for my being impressed<br />
by the corresponding colours.<br />
If you wish to treat yourself to a trip to<br />
Mauritius, I can only recommend the luxury<br />
homes of the Beachcomber hotels. They<br />
have several resorts on the island. In addition<br />
to all kinds of comforts, the diverse<br />
Creole cuisine of the country is elegantly<br />
presented here. And after experiencing<br />
all that the island has to offer, the beautiful<br />
beaches of Mauritius naturally give you<br />
an ideal opportunity to recover from the<br />
multitude of colourful impressions. The<br />
bays of the island are one of the most<br />
beautiful in the world and offer everything<br />
imaginable not only to those seeking<br />
rest and relaxation but also to the<br />
water sports enthusiasts.<br />
Mauritius is truly a paradise island!<br />
The luxurious way of life | 97
A<br />
BEHIND THE<br />
CURTAIN<br />
To visit authoritarian states, you need a good deal<br />
of adventurous spirit, curiosity and flexibility.<br />
In addition to the beautiful landscape, travellers can<br />
also expect to see many famous cultural<br />
attractions that are being opened up slowly but<br />
surely for tourists, provided that they adhere<br />
to certain rules and conventions – the Chinese<br />
proverb applies here as well: Better to see<br />
something once, than to hear about it a<br />
thousand times.<br />
NORTH KOREA<br />
Even though totalitarian states may be controversial from the democratic<br />
standpoint, when it comes to tourism, they offer a very varied<br />
landscape and diverse cultural highlights. The moral question of whether<br />
one should visit such countries should be answered by everyone themselves.<br />
A peek behind the curtains however allows you to complete your<br />
personal impression from a different point of view …<br />
Between Kim Jong-un and Kongming Dynasty<br />
Travellers on a tour to the empire of Kim Jong-un get an extremely interesting impression<br />
of the culture and nature of North Korea. Large buildings and imposing monuments in<br />
the capital Pyongyang, the tomb of the King Kongming in the Demilitarised Zone, which<br />
runs in the vicinity of the 38th parallel north as well as an unforgettable performance of the<br />
national circus await the travellers in North Korea. And on such travels, which are always<br />
accompanied by government minders, the slogan «Big brother is watching you» holds true …<br />
98 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Sitting in a special Turkish train, the route follows the historical<br />
Baghdad railway, passing comfortably through many landscapes,<br />
all leading to the seven UNESCO world heritage sites.<br />
Between Isfahan and Istanbul one allows oneself to be enchanted<br />
by colours and fragrances of the Orient as well as the<br />
spectacular archaeological site of Pasargadae, once a capital<br />
city, and the impressive stillness of the deserts. This is how<br />
you get a peek behind the curtain …<br />
Between Rouhani and Pasargadae<br />
UZBEKISTAN<br />
Between Karimov and Caravan Saray<br />
IRAN<br />
Remote, exotic places rise like a mirage in a desert – this is Uzbekistan. Legends tell<br />
of adventures and curiosity spurs one to experience them also in the 21st century. Every<br />
person travelling to Uzbekistan will succumb to the magic of the Silk Route of Central<br />
Asia, the fragrances, monuments and caravan sarays because Samarkand, Bukhara and<br />
Khiva are melodious names – even though not everything is covered with velvet and<br />
silk on the Silk Route …<br />
MYANMAR<br />
Between Being and Sagaing<br />
An enchanting place with golden pagodas,<br />
traditions and warm people: Myanmar is a jewel<br />
in South Asia, just waiting to be discovered.<br />
On a spectacular river cruise, travellers experience<br />
the beauty of the country, full of light, gold,<br />
temples and monastaries in Sagaing. Those who<br />
wish to immerse themselves in the land of<br />
pagodas, will certainly enjoy this radiance …<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Between Putin and Perestroika<br />
From KGB, Cold War, Glasnost and Perestroika, to Stalin, Gorbachev and<br />
Putin – Russia is shrouded in legend and raises many questions. A tour<br />
of Moscow to secret places on the trail of the «Russian X-Files» gives one<br />
very interesting insights and one feels like a comrade who has gone<br />
back in time to the Soviet Union era …<br />
The luxurious way of life | 99
FACES<br />
OF<br />
TIME<br />
WATCHES<br />
JEWELLERY<br />
There’s no denying it. Men, at least those who<br />
are not vain about the size of everything, will look at<br />
the face and hands of their wristwatch more<br />
often over the course of a day than in the mirror.<br />
Gisbert L. Brunner<br />
Many women would have it no other way. No wonder then, that<br />
these faces of time naturally attract special importance.<br />
It’s also natural, however, that watchmakers traditionally place<br />
the hands of the watch at nine minutes past ten when photographing them.<br />
Not only does it frame the logo, it also creates a friendly smiley face. That is<br />
also down to what designers believe makes up 80 percent of a watch’s<br />
overall impression, over centuries of constant change. Three-dimensionality<br />
made watch faces more complex. Colour brings variety. A retro look reminds<br />
us of the good old days. And skeletonization ensures interesting insights into<br />
the mechanics that make the whole thing tick.<br />
100 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
In 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for his tourbillon for<br />
compensating the negative influences of gravity on the accuracy of vertically<br />
positioned pocket watches. Dane Bahne Bonniksen presented an alternative<br />
with the carousel in 1892. The patent for this is dated 1906. Both inventions<br />
were combined by Blancpain in the new calibre 2322V2. To constantly keep<br />
an eye on the complex mechanism, the multi-level watch face allows an unhindered<br />
view of the ornate hand-wound mechanism. The designers and<br />
watchmakers also placed emphasis on the two carriages, so that they rotate<br />
prominently. The discreet casing of this special watch is made from platinum,<br />
with a diameter of 47.40 millimetres. As something so exquisite is so rare even<br />
in the 21st century, Blancpain has limited this edition to just 50 watches.<br />
BLANCPAIN<br />
The luxurious way of life | 101
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
A. LANGE & SÖHNE<br />
Over the course of over twenty years, the «Lange 1» from A. Lange & Söhne<br />
became an iconic watch. It owes its aura in no small amount to the striking<br />
but unobtrusive asymmetrical face with its conspicuous power reserve display<br />
and innovative large date. The latter may not have been invented by A. Lange<br />
& Söhne, but it contributed from 1994 to the watch’s previously unknown<br />
levels of popularity. The mechanism, patented for the luxury manufacturer<br />
from the small German town of Glashütte near the Czech border, also allows<br />
for a display up to five times larger than normal. As only seven months of the<br />
year have 31 days, a small button on the left of the case allows for quick date<br />
corrections. In <strong>2015</strong>, the company surprised with a new hand-wound mechanism<br />
called the L121.1. Among its features, alongside the usual 72 hour<br />
power reserve, were a date display that now jumps precisely at midnight and<br />
a balance wheel with variable inertia. The watch ticks at three Hz, with a microcosm<br />
of 368 components enclosed in the casing made from platinum,<br />
yellow or red gold.<br />
CARL F. BUCHERER<br />
Carl. F. Bucherer will produce only 188 of the «Manero Tourbillon Limited<br />
Edition <strong>2015</strong>», with a 42-mm red gold case and chocolate brown face. The<br />
mechanism hidden behind it, christened the CFB T1001, embodies the pinnacle<br />
of traditional craftsmanship. This can be seen in the Geneva waves as<br />
well as the angled and polished steel parts. The mainspring needs to be<br />
manually wound after 70 hours. A power reserve display at the «9» shows<br />
the remaining energy. A crescent-shaped date indicator rotates around the<br />
face of the watch. The watch also features as 24-hour indicator to show a<br />
second time zone.<br />
Carole Forestier, chief watchmaker at Cartier, has delivered a masterpiece<br />
with this watch. The microcosm, developed over five years, has everything<br />
that affluent watch nerds treasure. The name «Grande Complication» does<br />
not come from just anywhere. No fewer than 578 components are required to<br />
produce one of the skeletonised, self-winding movements with flying tourbillon,<br />
perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Cartier requires ten weeks to<br />
decorate the components and five further weeks to assemble them. The ambitious<br />
manufactory’s watch comes of course with the prestigious Poinçon de<br />
Genève. This applies to the entire watch with its platinum housing and diameter<br />
of 45 millimetres. The seal requires unconditional fulfillment of countless<br />
quality criteria, as well as a demanding level of accuracy for tourbillons. The<br />
watch may diverge by no more than one minute after one week.<br />
CARTIER<br />
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
Most watches with minute repeaters are very discreet. Their special ability to<br />
strike time precisely to the minute is only revealed after operating a small slide<br />
piece on the left of the case. In contrast, the Breguet «Tradition Répétition<br />
Minutes Tourbillon 7087» is happy to show off its many aspects of outstanding<br />
watchmaking. In the «south», i.e. at the «6», the tourbillon rotates around its<br />
axis once per minute. Particularly impressive, however, are the gongs for the<br />
striking mechanism mounted in the left side on the bezel. When Breguet invented<br />
the aforementioned gong springs in 1783, these were coiled up around<br />
the movement. After carrying out many experiments, his successors improved<br />
the form to create the perfect sound. This is precisely why the two<br />
hammers strike the carefully tuned gongs vertically from below at lightning<br />
speed. The entire automatic calibre with peripheral rotating flywheel and<br />
80-hour power reserve is called the 565DR. The parts for its escapement and<br />
balance are made from silicon. At the «12», there is also a discreet power<br />
reserve display.<br />
BREGUET<br />
The luxurious way of life | 103
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
TAG HEUER<br />
A fraction of one horsepower is all it takes to keep a mechanical watch movement<br />
ticking. To reduce that energy requirement even more, TAG Heuer took<br />
inspiration from the automotive world. In place of the thirsty toothed wheel<br />
chain, the patented automatic calibre V4 uses no fewer than thirteen much<br />
more efficient timing belts. High-performance computers had to calculate<br />
their way through around 2500 variables to get everything working perfectly.<br />
In the end, only five belts were left. These are joined by highly resilient<br />
and low-friction micro ball bearings with zirconium balls. In <strong>2015</strong>, this cuttingedge<br />
mechanical technology was combined with an innovative case design<br />
in the «Monaco V4 Carbon Phantom». Its cushion-shaped case, measuring<br />
41 x 41 mm, is made from a highly resistant carbon matrix composite. Handling<br />
this material, however, requires a great deal of expertise. The tools are worn<br />
after approximately ten cases. After all that, only 85 percent of those<br />
produced are actually used.<br />
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
CHOPARD<br />
1963 was a very special year for Chopard. This was when the German<br />
Scheufele family took over the brand, founded in 1860. In 1996, it became a<br />
full manufactory with its own range of mechanical watches that has become<br />
remarkable. This collection includes the extraordinary hand-wound calibre<br />
L.U.C 02.19-L1 with tourbillon. It can trace its history at Chopard back to 2003<br />
and the L.U.C 02.01-L. In addition to the tourbillon, it features an outstanding<br />
power reserve of 216 hours. A total of four barrels store the required energy.<br />
In order to be better safe than sorry, the new movement fulfils not only all<br />
criteria of the Swiss quality standard for chronometers, but also those of the<br />
exclusive Geneva Seal. Chopard will produce only 100 of these rosé gold<br />
watches, which highlights also include the fine enamel face, in which the<br />
tourbillon rotates. The «12» is crowned with a power display, to remind the<br />
wearer of when to wind.<br />
MONTBLANC<br />
Another exquisite eye-catcher is the «Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères<br />
Vasco da Gama» from Montblanc. Only 18 of these watches exist, inspired by<br />
the explorer Vasco da Gama, who discovered the sea route to India in 1497.<br />
The pioneering spirit of the Portuguese seafarer is reflected in the handwound<br />
calibre MB M68.40, including the combination of tourbillon with cylindrical<br />
hairspring and a spectacular time zone display, the first of its kind. An<br />
ingenious mechanism also creates a stunning, three-dimensional chronometric<br />
spectacle. Hands for the hours and minutes at the respective location rotate<br />
at its centre. When on the road, a small blue hand at the «6» shows the time<br />
at home. The spherical globes to the left and right feature realistic engraving<br />
and miniature painting. The northern and southern hemispheres are depicted<br />
on the left and right respectively. Each of these is surrounded by a ring with<br />
24-hour graduation and light/dark zones for differentiating day and night. No<br />
less prominent is the 18.4 mm minute tourbillon at the «12», which counteracts<br />
the negative influences of gravity. Both ends of the aforementioned cylindrical<br />
hairspring are curved upwards.<br />
106 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
BULGARI<br />
Classic watches with repeaters chime the minutes on a high-pitched gong<br />
and the hours on a low-pitched one. The quarter hours are signalled acoustically<br />
by both gongs being struck sequentially. In <strong>2015</strong> Bulgari released the<br />
Carillon as part of its Daniel Roth series. This name refers to a kind of musical<br />
chiming instrument, as the boutique manufacturer uses three hammers and<br />
three hand-formed gongs to sound the quarter hours. The design of the<br />
calibre 3300, comprising 327 parts and including a minute tourbillon, bridges<br />
the gap between classic watchmaking and modernity. In contrast to traditional<br />
designs, the hammers go about their work on the dial side at the «10».<br />
The power reserve of the hand-wound mechanism, which Bulgari encloses<br />
in a 48-millimetre red gold case, is sufficient for 75 hours.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 107
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
CHRONOSWISS<br />
As the name «Sirius Répétition à quarts» suggests, Chronoswiss can let know<br />
the exact time every quarter of an hour, if the wearer wishes it. The mechanism<br />
required for this is discreetly hidden, however, behind the hand-guilloched<br />
face made from sterling silver. Every watch is produced by an experienced<br />
craftsman using traditional methods and machinery. Alongside the hours and<br />
minutes, the exclusive C.126 automatic calibre with a power reserve of around<br />
35 hours also indicates the seconds. Its oscillating weight is skeletonised to<br />
increase winding efficiency. The striking mechanism is triggered by pressing<br />
the handy button on the left side of the case. The case is available in red gold<br />
or stainless steel. Both models measure 41 mm in diameter and are water-resistant<br />
up to three bar.<br />
PATEK PHILIPPE<br />
Patek Philippe has been producing drag pointer wrist chronographs since<br />
1923. Its first production watch in 1938 was the now priceless reference 1436,<br />
which was used by Valjoux. The CH 27-70/150 in the reference 5004,<br />
presented in 1997, is based on a Lémania design and features a perpetual<br />
calendar. In 2011 the manufactory released the calibre CH 29-535 PS Q,<br />
developed and produced entirely in house. The hand-wound mechanism<br />
again has a perpetual calendar. After 77 years, the Geneva family-owned<br />
manufactory is finally once again celebrating pure chronograph art with the<br />
expert craftsmanship of the fly-back hand. The reference 5370P in its 41-mm<br />
platinum case embodies a pure strain of nostalgic understatement. The black<br />
watch face with its subtle Breguet digits and tachometer scale shows no<br />
signs of obtrusiveness. A look through the transparent base reveals the astonishing<br />
and lovingly perfected CHR 29-535 PS in all its glory, protected by<br />
multiple patents.<br />
VACHERON CONSTANTIN<br />
No need to rush, then. Being in the right place at the right time is all that<br />
matters if you want one of the only ten ultra-flat «Harmony» drag pointer<br />
chronographs from Vacheron Constantin. The development work for this<br />
watch took a whole seven years. The automatic calibre 3500, designed and<br />
produced in house, has set two world records simultaneously. Despite housing<br />
a self-winding rotor, chronograph, drag pointer and power reserve display,<br />
it measures just 5.2 mm in height. This is made possible by a solid gold oscillating<br />
weight, which rotates peripherally around the actual movement. The<br />
cushion-shaped platinum case, measuring 42 x 42 mm, is only 8.4 mm on the<br />
wrist. The complex movement comprises 459 components, including several<br />
springs that are just three hundredths of a millimetre thick. As usual for the<br />
craftsmen of this 260-year-old manufactory, all components are finished to<br />
the absolute highest quality. The opalin watch face evokes the spirit of the<br />
1920s. Its red tachymeter scale can be used to record average speeds up to<br />
1000 metres away.<br />
108 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
The sound of a Bugatti is like music to the ears of petrol heads. To mark the<br />
launch of the 1001 hp Veyron in 2004, Parmigiani created the perfect wrist<br />
watch. Michel Parmigiani developed a very special movement motor for this<br />
piece. The spokes of its gear wheels reflect those of the car’s rims. When<br />
viewed from above, the ergonomically domed casing reveals the full movement,<br />
with the calibre PF 370 sitting formally on the wrist with its two barrels<br />
and ten-day power reserve. External cardan shafts take care of the winding<br />
and hand positioning, with a fuel gauge showing the remaining power reserve.<br />
Last but not least, the piece with its five plates is mounted on silent<br />
blocks. These proven technical aspects were retained by the manufactory for<br />
the new «Bugatti 370 Révélation». The characteristic visual features of the red<br />
gold anniversary edition are the engine bonnet, which can be folded up and<br />
removed, as well as the watch face with its diamond-shaped honeycomb<br />
structure of the Bugatti radiator grille.<br />
PARMIGIANI<br />
The luxurious way of life | 109
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
RADO<br />
There are times in life when every second counts. That’s why Rado developed<br />
the «DiaMaster Grande Seconde». Its face design harkens back to a wise<br />
observation by the French pilot and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: «Perfection<br />
is not achieved when one can add no more, but when one would take<br />
nothing away.» With this in mind, the puristic timepiece sticks to displaying<br />
the hours, minutes and date, along with the seconds emphasised in the left<br />
half of the face. The hands and date display on this piece from the Swatch<br />
group member are driven by an automatic calibre Eta 2892-A2, modified in<br />
house. The 43 mm monoblock casing, made from high-tech ceramic with a<br />
metallic gleam, promises eternal beauty and no scratches.<br />
Its raw case is available in white, polished or sand-blasted variants. The case<br />
is then processed further in a special plasma oven. At 900 °C, the molecular<br />
structure of the ceramic changes. Gases help the special colour to emerge<br />
without affecting the high skin tolerability.<br />
110 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
Produced at Glashütte Original’s own watch face manufactory, the face for<br />
the «PanoReserve» is understated but powerfully expressive. The hands for<br />
the hours, minutes and seconds turn around the dark blue disc. Another hand<br />
indicates the power reserve. In the bottom right, one finds a further display<br />
for the so-called panorama date. The manufacturer’s own hand-wound calibre<br />
65-01 can be seen through the sapphire glass base, with Glashütte<br />
three-quarter plate, 42-hour power reserve and 48 functional stones. The<br />
duplex swan neck fine-timing device, developed especially for this movement<br />
in 2002, has two functions. It allows the wearer to control the movement and<br />
also creates a uniform ticking. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter<br />
and water-resistant up to five bar.<br />
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL<br />
The luxurious way of life | 111
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
HERMÈS<br />
The combined genius of outstanding craftsmen at La Montre Hermès regularly<br />
leads to truly extraordinary creations. In the illustrious «Cape Cod Zebra<br />
Pegasus», two traditional features deliver a real wow effect. These are the<br />
engraving and the fire enamel. The mythical winged zebra that decorates the<br />
face of this watch features wings enamelled using the cloisonné method. Thin<br />
partitions prevent the liquid enamel from mixing. The four parts, each with<br />
different colour palettes, evoke the design of a silk scarf by Alice Shirley.<br />
The zebra itself is created in painstaking enamel painting. This burst of colour<br />
requires multiple melting and burning processes at temperatures of over<br />
800 °C. Only four models have been produced, elegantly framed by a white<br />
gold case and featuring a Manufacture Hermès H1837 automatic movement<br />
to keep time.<br />
PANERAI<br />
»Mare Nostrum», our sea, was the name given by the Romans to the Mediterranean<br />
at the heart of their empire. In 1943, Panerai produced three prototypes<br />
of a 52-mm wide chronograph. In contrast to the diving watches »Radiomir» and<br />
»Luminor», these deck watches allowed officers to transfer the precise time from<br />
the stationary pendulum clocks to the marine chronometers onboard. They<br />
never went into full production at the time, for reasons as yet unknown. Outstanding<br />
water resistance was not considered important back then. This is also<br />
true of the 150 pieces of the retro model presented in <strong>2015</strong>. In contrast to the<br />
original, Panerai uses lightweight and anti-allergenic titanium for the jumbo-sized<br />
case. This makes the new »Mare Nostrum» a comfortable accessory on the<br />
wrist. To stay true to the original, the casing has no transparent base through<br />
which to view the fine hand-wound calibre OP XXV. The chronographs, with<br />
column wheel control, classic wheel coupling and 30-minute counter, are<br />
supplied by its subsidiary Montblanc. The movement, originally developed by<br />
Minerva, is known as the 13-22.<br />
IWC<br />
Anyone waiting for the white gold IWC «Portuguese Perpetual Calendar» to<br />
diverge by one day will be waiting for a long time, 577 and a half years to be<br />
precise. In addition to that, the watch shows the passage of the moon across<br />
both hemispheres. But this member of the 75-year-old watch series can offer<br />
much more. Its perpetual calendar consists of 109 parts. The extra 27 components<br />
compared to the original design of 1985 are a result of the larger<br />
diameter and the need for several more intermediate wheels. The 37.8 mm by<br />
7.5 mm automatic movement calibre 52615 is made in house. Its golden rotor<br />
can be wound from both sides and provides the two barrels with enough<br />
energy for 168 hours. Alongside the double moon, the watch face also indicates<br />
the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the power reserve, date,<br />
day of the week and month, and the year in full.<br />
112 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
HUBLOT<br />
Since November 2014, Hublot and Italia Independent have been working<br />
together on the Lapo Elkann fashion label founded in 2006. The fruit of this<br />
liaison is a blue set, consisting of a wrist watch and sunglasses. What’s<br />
special about the «Big Bang Unico Italia Independent» is the first ever use of<br />
the material texalium in the watch casing. This impressive innovation delivers<br />
truly glowing colours, achieved by packing a 0.2-mm thick layer of chemically<br />
dyed and highly resilient glass fibre onto several layers of carbon fibres.<br />
Hublot conducted over a hundred firings to achieve the gleaming blue of the<br />
bevel. The light 45-mm case protects the «Unico» HUB 1242 chronograph<br />
against water pressure up to 10 bar. When fully wound, the mainspring will<br />
keep the automatic movement ticking for a whole weekend without the need<br />
for an extra power boost. The extravagant language of Lapo Elkann’s design<br />
can also be seen on the denim watch strap, with added platinum rivets.<br />
500 sets will be produced before production ends once and for all.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 113
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
ROLEX<br />
The «Yacht-Master» from Rolex was the subject of furore as soon as it<br />
debuted in 1998. Since then, its striking design with bidirectional rotatable<br />
glass bezel has made history. The Swiss watchmaking giant is unmoved by<br />
spectacular revolutions. Its focus is on cautious evolution, reflected in the new<br />
«Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 37». The centre of its case is made from a<br />
single piece of red gold. This material, named «Everrose», is also used for the<br />
screwed back cover and the bezel, with its scratch-proof «Cerachrome» inlay.<br />
The watch is resistant to water up to ten bar and comes with an official<br />
chrono meter certificate. It is powered by an automatic calibre 2236 movement<br />
and features a rotor that can be wound on both sides, a 55-hour power<br />
reserve, a balance frequency of four hertz, second stop, «Syloxi» silicon<br />
balance spring, and a balance wheel with variable moment of inertia. The<br />
innovative «Oysterflex» strap ensures the watch sits equally securely and<br />
comfortably on the wrist. Its flexible metal spring blades are coated with<br />
high-quality elastomer. While we’re on the subject of Rolex, the company is<br />
offering a five-year guarantee on all watches since 1 July <strong>2015</strong>.<br />
114 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…?<br />
The crystal mine<br />
In 1794 to the south of the Mexican city of Chihuahua, Alejo<br />
Hernández, Vicente Ruiz and Pedro Ramos discovered a small<br />
vein of ore at the foot of a mountain chain known as Naica.<br />
The vein wasn’t mined, however, until 1828 and even then only<br />
on a small scale. The real excavation work didn’t start until<br />
1900. In 1910, deep under the surface in one of the largest ore<br />
mines in the region, two miners drilled a new ventilation shaft.<br />
As the drill broke through the wall, a torrent of boiling hot water<br />
surged through and revealed a cave. Completely by accident,<br />
the two miners had made a fascinating geological discovery – a<br />
cave full of massive crystals made of selenite, a special kind<br />
of gypsum. This led to the cave being named the «Cave of<br />
Swords». As the cave was also full of highly poisonous gases,<br />
the preparations for exploring it took several years. 90 years<br />
later during further exploration work in the mine, another cave<br />
was discovered – the «Cave of Crystals». While the most<br />
impressive specimens of known crystals measure around<br />
25 centimetres in our regions, those in Naica reach heights<br />
of up to 14 metres.<br />
Golden age<br />
The country with the world’s largest gold reserves is the USA with<br />
over 8100 tonnes of gold. This means that the precious metal<br />
makes up 71.6 percent of the country’s currency reserves. Germany<br />
is second with approximately 3,380 tonnes. Golden ducats were<br />
first minted in Venice in the year 1284. For over 500 years,<br />
they were the most popular method of payment in the<br />
world. Global gold reserves are currently around<br />
171,300 tonnes. Of these, 84,300 tonnes are in the<br />
form of jewellery and 33,000 tonnes are made<br />
up of bars and coins. The world’s central banks<br />
possess 29,500 tonnes. The rest is in industrial<br />
reserves. Around the world, there are still<br />
approximately 51,000 tonnes of gold that<br />
can be excavated.<br />
Famous Rolex wearers<br />
One of the most famous wearers of the Rolex watch, albeit a fictional<br />
one, is James Bond. Ian Fleming, author of the original books, names<br />
among others the Rolex «Oyster Perpetual». Another personality<br />
closely linked with the brand is Paul Newman and the «Daytona». Cult<br />
actor and racing driver Steve McQueen is also linked with the Rolex.<br />
His name is often tied to the model «1655 Explorer II».
JEWELLERY<br />
Items<br />
I<br />
II<br />
Look elegant this autumn<br />
with precious stones<br />
on gold and silver chains to reflect<br />
the colours of an Indian summer.<br />
«Autumn is the most beautiful<br />
time of the year.»<br />
BY LAURA<br />
VI<br />
III<br />
I OLE LYNGGAARD<br />
II MEISTER<br />
III DIOR<br />
IV CARTIER<br />
V PANDORA<br />
VI BULGARI<br />
IV<br />
V<br />
116 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
FINELY WOV<strong>EN</strong> JEWELLERY<br />
MADE FROM GOLD AND SILK<br />
CAROLINA BUCCI<br />
5<br />
QUESTIONS<br />
Jewellery designer Carolina Bucci is continuing a family tradition that<br />
stretches back to 1885. This tradition is enriched by her contemporary<br />
touch and high-quality everyday style. Bucci spent her childhood in Florence,<br />
between the grey and azure tones of the Italian renaissance. These<br />
colours, just like her sense for balance and strictly non-ostentatious elegance,<br />
have been a constant part of her life and have followed her from Italy<br />
to New York to London, where she now lives. From finely braided golden<br />
bracelets and rings with lightly structured surfaces to chains of richly<br />
coloured silk, Carolina Bucci has taken weaving technology and methods<br />
originally used in renaissance Florence and made them her signature. After<br />
studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and working at<br />
Penny Preville and Graff Diamonds, she founded her own jewellery label in<br />
London. Bucci’s breakthrough came in 2003, when one of her colliers was<br />
worn by Salma Hayek on the cover of British magazine «Vogue». The work<br />
of the London-based designer combines modernity with an effortless sense<br />
of luxury in a uniquely elegant and sleek style. Carolina explains: «My generation<br />
wears jewellery differently from our parents, who would only get out<br />
precious items for going to the opera.» The mix of traditional craftsmanship<br />
and a modern, holistic and relaxed attitude has become Bucci’s trademark.<br />
In 2007, she opened her flagship store in Belgravia, whose customers include<br />
Victoria Beckham, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate<br />
Moss to name a few.<br />
How would you describe your style in three<br />
words?<br />
Colourful, relaxed and classic.<br />
Which city has the best-dressed people?<br />
Paris and New York.<br />
Which designer do you like?<br />
I love Mary Katzantrous’ colourful materials. They are just<br />
so original and full of life.<br />
What advice would you give women in terms of their<br />
outfit?<br />
One piece of advice that my mother gave me: women<br />
should dress appropriately for their age. And you should<br />
always pay attention to your shoes.<br />
Where do you get your inspiration?<br />
Everything that I design is inspired by moments from my life.<br />
I always start with a piece that I design for myself and then<br />
create a whole collection around it. I know that sounds a bit<br />
selfish. I create jewellery that I feel I am missing.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 117
SHADES<br />
GRE<strong>EN</strong><br />
OF<br />
Emeralds are erotic and valuable. Connoisseurs<br />
are addicted. The bigger the stone, the<br />
greater the desire. The Bahia emerald, worth<br />
400 million dollars, is a special source<br />
of wild stories of obsession<br />
and betrayal.<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
118 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
Brazil 2001, an emerald mine in the<br />
eastern state of Bahia. This is where<br />
the world’s largest emerald, weighing<br />
in at 381 kilos, was discovered. This<br />
180,000 carat gem is about as large as<br />
a human thigh. Emeralds of this size are very rare<br />
and are worth a fortune. There are many treasures<br />
in this world, but only a few have such a bizarre<br />
story as the Bahia emerald. Eight people claim to<br />
be the legal owner of the stone. Californian businessman<br />
Thony Thomas claims to have bought<br />
the stone for just 60,000 dollars soon after it was<br />
excavated. But the receipt for the purchase was<br />
destroyed shortly afterwards in a mysterious<br />
house fire. The only evidence is a picture of the<br />
businessman with the huge emerald.<br />
A perfect emerald is worth more<br />
than the most beautiful diamond<br />
The emerald is the most precious stone of the<br />
Beryl group and has been the most sought-after<br />
green stone since the days of ancient Egypt. The<br />
word emerald is derived from the Latin «esmaralda»,<br />
which itself comes from the Greek «smargdos»,<br />
meaning «green stone». Emeralds almost<br />
always have small to medium-sized inclusions,<br />
known as «jardin» (French for garden). Stones<br />
without any inclusions are extremely rare and<br />
achieve carat prices far beyond those of comparable<br />
white diamonds. The emerald gets its colour<br />
from traces of chromium. Emeralds are quite brittle,<br />
which is an issue particularly when grinding the<br />
precious gems. The octagonal step cut method<br />
(with angled corners) was developed to smooth off<br />
the sensitive edges, and is still known today as the<br />
emerald cut.<br />
only be found in a few places. Columbian emeralds<br />
sell quickly and are often sold in the boutiques of<br />
Los Angeles just weeks after being discovered.<br />
That’s what was also hoped of the Bahia emerald,<br />
but the gem didn’t turn up in the USA until 2005.<br />
The Columbian emeralds have a gleaming green<br />
colour and a special intensity that the Brazilian<br />
stones lack. So although the Bahia emerald is<br />
certainly one of the largest, it is not one of the most<br />
beautiful. The stone therefore needed a very<br />
special buyer who was not so easy to find. The<br />
emerald was stored in a bank deposit three<br />
stories underground. No-one could have<br />
known that Hurricane Katrina was to<br />
devastate New Orleans. After Katrina, the<br />
stone lay submerged in its deposit for two<br />
months.<br />
«Emeralds are<br />
not a luxury good.<br />
Emeralds are<br />
a must!»<br />
– Precious stones trader –<br />
The best quality emeralds come<br />
from Colombia<br />
The world’s most valuable emeralds are excavated<br />
in a small region called Muzo. The area is about as<br />
large as Las Vegas and is a seven-hour drive from<br />
the Colombian capital Bogotá. Traders come here<br />
looking for clear stones and deep colours. The<br />
larger the stones, the better suited they are to<br />
making expensive jewellery. As beautiful emeralds<br />
are very rare, they achieve high prices. They can<br />
The luxurious way of life | 119
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
The best quality emeralds come from Colombia.<br />
120 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
A proud discovery in Columbia’s jungle mines.
WATCHES & JEWELLERY<br />
Who is the legal owner?<br />
The emerald frenzy is a combination of the stone’s<br />
beauty and the lust of the rich. The sheer size of<br />
the Bahia emerald aroused this lust. So it is no<br />
wonder that the battle for ownership of the emerald<br />
continued. The stone came into the ownership<br />
of a businessman, who went on to lose it shortly<br />
afterwards in an obscure diamond deal. He claims<br />
to have been kidnapped by the Brazilian mafia during<br />
the deal. With millions of dollars at stake, devious<br />
methods are common in the trading of precious<br />
stones. Even small deals are exciting.<br />
Emeralds are a symbiosis of power and romance.<br />
This is what makes the Bahia stone so enthralling.<br />
Somehow, the emerald ended up in California in<br />
2008 and came into the hands of the state justice<br />
system. The press broke the story and went crazy.<br />
The story raised interest across the whole country,<br />
which raised the value of the Bahia emerald by<br />
several million. Five parties are still arguing over<br />
the ownership of the 400-million dollar stone,<br />
which is currently waiting for its rightful owner in<br />
the custody of the sheriff of Los Angeles.<br />
The Brazilian government has also registered its<br />
own claim. It argues that the «Bahia emerald» is<br />
part of the country’s cultural and scientific heritage,<br />
and as such should be returned.<br />
Trading place Colombia<br />
All kinds of traders flock to the market square in Muzo. Auf der Plaza Central von Muzo werden<br />
Smaragde gehandelt. Bigger deals, however, are negotiated in Bogotá, attracting emerald<br />
dealers from all over the world. There are four large buildings in the capital that are the places<br />
to go to find those who cut, trade and buy emeralds. The professional precious stone dealers<br />
who dominate the market can also be found here. Almost all emeralds from the mines are<br />
brought here, whether by mine owners in sacks or in the trouser pockets of amateur prospectors.<br />
An emerald will pass through many hands and everyone involved receives their share. By<br />
the time the emerald is placed in the shop window of a New York jewellers, its original price will<br />
have more than quadrupled. Whereas in the USA a raw emerald will barely raise an eyebrow, in<br />
Colombia the emerald fever will take hold at first sight. People there see the finished gemstone<br />
and the riches that it promises. In order to achieve the perfect result, an emerald can easily lose<br />
up to 70 percent of its weight. A matching counterpart can double its value, as these stones are<br />
perfect for making them into earrings, such as those worn by Angelina Jolie at the Oscars in<br />
2011. They were valued at 2.5 million dollars.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 121
HANDMADE JEWELLERY<br />
COLLECTION<br />
ANNETTE & HERBERT KOPP<br />
4<br />
QUOTES<br />
«Art is the wonderful jewellery of life.»<br />
– Henry van de Velde –<br />
«We prefer to live with art.<br />
We leave trading it to others.»– Herbert Kopp<br />
in an interview with the German newspaper «Die Welt»–<br />
«Our most popular items are our Love<br />
collection and the colourful targets from<br />
the Magic Color range.» – Herbert Kopp –<br />
«A woman without jewellery<br />
is like a mill without a millstone»<br />
– Old saying –<br />
Annette Kopp is a trained silversmith. Herbert<br />
Kopp studied painting. In 1986, the couple founded<br />
the label CADA in Munich, which today is one<br />
of Europe’s most famous jewellery brands. With<br />
Herbert Kopp’s designs, the company quickly became<br />
the no. 1 stop for fashion-conscious women<br />
and creatives. The XXL rings and bracelets reflected<br />
the zeitgeist of the 80s and 90s, just as the<br />
pieces from the «Love Collection» do today.<br />
The couple have succeeded in surprising again<br />
and again in the fine jewellery segment. Whether<br />
with fetish elements from popular and everyday<br />
culture or simply by consistently reinventing and<br />
refining classic shapes. The items are produced in<br />
the company’s own workshop and are always relaxed<br />
and wearable. As passionate art collectors<br />
and music lovers, Herbert and Annette Kopp immerse<br />
themselves in creativity. They combine this<br />
with their exceptional talent for cutting-edge design<br />
and their instinctive feel for materials, shapes<br />
and colours. CADA customers therefore know that<br />
the «CADA loves you» claim is no empty slogan.<br />
Annette and Herbert Kopp have always stayed<br />
true to themselves, and their customers value their<br />
good and reliable service. Anyone searching for<br />
their new favourite piece of jewellery will be in the<br />
right place. The name CADA stands for Creativity,<br />
Art, Design and Anarchy. For inspiration, the<br />
Kopps look to art and music. The most successful<br />
collections, Love and Magic Color, are inspired<br />
by works of art. These are treasured by<br />
celebrities like Paris Hilton, Princess<br />
Caro line of Monaco or Patti Smith, all of<br />
whom wear colourful CADA jewellery.<br />
The trend towards classic,<br />
timeless and delicately crafted<br />
pieces is continuing, for example<br />
with the «Ribbon» chain or the<br />
«Hoop» earrings made from<br />
18-carat white gold and sparkling<br />
diamonds.<br />
122 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
VII<br />
VI<br />
I<br />
II<br />
Jewellery<br />
BY LAURA<br />
This autumn/winter we will be<br />
seeing lots of classic hunter green, icy pastels<br />
and strong, luminous cobalt blues,<br />
edged with white gold.<br />
V<br />
I BUCHERER<br />
II TIFFANY & CO.<br />
III ST<strong>EN</strong>ZHORN<br />
IV GRAFF<br />
V HARRY WINSTON<br />
VI BULGARI<br />
VII DIOR<br />
III<br />
IV
DRIVE<br />
STYLE<br />
COMMITTED TO<br />
ELEGANCE
DRIVE STYLE<br />
«There is one thing<br />
that one should<br />
demand both of one’s<br />
watch and of one’s self:<br />
never stand still.»<br />
– Walter Lange –<br />
The winner’s watch: Lange 1 Timezone Como Edition.<br />
126 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Winner «Best of Show»: Alfa Romeo 8C 2300, 1932.<br />
Once a year, the eyes of the car world are trained on the small<br />
town of Cernobbio on the banks of Lake Como. Since 1929,<br />
the famous grounds of the Grand Hotel Villa d’Este have played<br />
host to one of the most exclusive classic car competitions<br />
in the world – the Concorso d’Eleganza.<br />
R<br />
Anka Refghi A. Lange & Söhne, BMW Group<br />
oaring engines, chassis polished to perfection, gleaming chrome<br />
and the smell of petrol in the air. The organisers of this year’s<br />
d’Eleganza pulled out all the stops to create an astonishing<br />
event in breathtaking surroundings and perfect weather. This exhibition of<br />
superlatives, held over the Whitsun weekend in May, welcomed rare and historic<br />
cars to compete for the affection of the crowd and the jury, and to bring<br />
the sophisticated glamour of bygone years back to life.<br />
Art on wheels<br />
The BMW group, sponsors of the Concorso since 1999, showcased a collection<br />
of very special artworks and presented five cars from its exhibition<br />
«40 Years of BMW Art Cars». These vehicles, both race and series models,<br />
were designed by famous international artists such as Roy Lichtenstein,<br />
Andy Warhol and Frank Stella from 1975 to 2010.<br />
A winner’s watch<br />
The high point of this year’s festival on the banks of Lake Como was the<br />
beauty competition for historic vehicles in a range of categories. The title of<br />
«Best of Show», awarded to the most beautiful car at the Concorso, went this<br />
year to the stunning Alfa 8C 2300 Spider 1932 owned by American collector<br />
David Sydorick. This fascinating car was designed by the famous Zagato<br />
design and development studio. Alongside the trophy, the winner was also<br />
awarded a very special prize. German watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne,<br />
another sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza for<br />
four years, awarded a ticking work of art with the<br />
legendary LANGE 1 ZEITZONE «Como Edition».<br />
This watch features a hand-engraved coat of arms<br />
of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on the<br />
white gold caseback and the event’s location<br />
Como on the city ring. A true work of craftsmanship<br />
suitable for the show’s most elegant vehicle.<br />
At the end of this unforgettable event at the exclusive<br />
gala dinner in the Villa d’Este, Wilhelm Schmid,<br />
CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, awarded the unique<br />
watch and ended his speech with the words of<br />
French painter Marc Chagall: «You can recognise a<br />
true collector not by what he already has, but by<br />
what he would love to have.» The passions for<br />
exclusive timepieces and precious cars are often<br />
closely linked. Both involve extraordinary levels of<br />
craftsmanship and the love with which they are<br />
created. The «marriage» between watch manufacturer<br />
A. Lange & Söhne and the Concorso d’Eleganza<br />
could therefore not be a better partnership.<br />
We speak to CEO Wilhelm Schmid about the<br />
trends of the age.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 127
The Lange 1 Timezone «Como Edition» watch is presented by CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, Wilhelm Schmid.<br />
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong>: Mr Schmid, are there in your view different<br />
dimensions of time?<br />
WILHELM SCHMID: Absolutely. When I was working for<br />
BMW in Africa, I was in charge of the markets in Zimbabwe,<br />
Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Mozambique. You<br />
arrive there accustomed to well-functioning German processes<br />
and procedures and after a while, you ask yourself<br />
whether you’d be better off adapting or jumping on the<br />
next flight home. Advanced economies have a much different<br />
feeling for time than countries where the process of<br />
industrialisation is not so developed. There is a wonderful<br />
saying in Africa: «You have watches, we have time.»<br />
A. Lange & Söhne is famously reluctant to jump on<br />
every «trend bandwagon». Is this your philosophy?<br />
Our philosophy is essentially to keep advancing the aim of<br />
our founder – to produce the best watches in the world and<br />
to never stand still. Whether we achieve that or not is another<br />
question, but that is the aim that drives us every day.<br />
On top of that, we concentrate on what we are really best<br />
at – men’s watches. We always think long term and never<br />
go running after trends. If you’re waiting for us to produce<br />
a smartwatch then you will probably be disappointed.<br />
The winner of this year’s Concorso d’Eleganza was<br />
awarded a very special watch …<br />
Yes, the Lange 1 Zeitzone. This special version of the<br />
watch is unique, only one has been produced for the<br />
winner. That’s something very special when you consider<br />
that we normally do not produce custom watches.<br />
How do you want people to feel when they wear an<br />
A. Lange & Söhne watch?<br />
I always find it very moving when I realise that people<br />
know exactly why they invest so much money in one of our<br />
watches. When they understand how much work has<br />
gone into it and how these watches are produced with<br />
such love for detail. When I get the feeling that people<br />
understand this when they wear that watch, that makes<br />
me very happy.<br />
Do you have a favourite watch?<br />
You might as well ask me who my favourite child is, there<br />
is no right answer. But there are some watches with which<br />
I share an emotional connection. Like the Datograph,<br />
for example, which we launched in 2012. That was the<br />
first watch where I was involved in the development right<br />
from the start. It’s fair to say that I have a soft spot for<br />
chronographs.<br />
Back to the here and now. What would you do if you<br />
had six months free?<br />
Easy. I’d go to Africa. I’d love to just travel all over the continent<br />
again, enjoy our house and lie on the beach.<br />
Just switch off and then maybe travel around Asia for<br />
a few weeks.<br />
A. Lange & Söhne<br />
Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand A. Lange laid<br />
the foundations for the company in 1845 by founding<br />
his workshop. After the Second World War,<br />
the company was dispossessed and the name<br />
A. Lange & Söhne faded almost entirely into<br />
memory. That was until 1990, when Walter Lange,<br />
great grandson of the company founder, saw<br />
the time was right for a new start. Today, the company<br />
produces only a few thousand wristwatches made<br />
from gold or platinum, which all contain mechanisms<br />
produced exclusively in house that are painstakingly<br />
decorated and assembled by hand.<br />
128 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
THE WORLD’S TOUGHEST RALLY<br />
PARIS–DAKAR<br />
It is the most famous long-distance and desert rally in the world and was held<br />
annually almost exclusively on the African continent from 1978 to 2007. In<br />
2008, a terror threat resulted in the rally being cancelled and then moved to<br />
South America for security reasons, where it has since remained. The first<br />
Dakar Rally began on 26 December 1978 in Paris and ended on 14 January<br />
1979 in Dakar. The idea came from Thierry Sabine, who got lost whilst travelling<br />
with his motorbike in the Libyan desert in 1977 and almost died as a result.<br />
The desert that almost claimed his life fascinated Sabine, who wanted to<br />
share this fascination with as many people as possible. He organised a race<br />
through the endless sea of sand. 170 participants set out on the 6,000-mile<br />
journey across the tracks of Algeria, Niger, Mali, Upper Volta (modern day<br />
Burkina Faso) and Senegal. Over a quarter of participants lost their way in the<br />
Aïr mountains. By the time they reached Bamako, half had already given up.<br />
This is what helped create the Dakar legend and gave the rally its first heroes.<br />
By the 80s, the rally had already achieved cult status. To this day it is a human<br />
and sporting adventure, and an experience for those who want to put their<br />
courage to the test. This adventure is open to everyone and «victory» goes to<br />
every participant that completes the course. In 2001, German race driver<br />
Jutta Kleinschmidt was the first woman to win the Dakar Rally. The rally is one<br />
of the toughest and most dangerous sporting events in the world and has so<br />
far claimed 61 lives.<br />
5<br />
QUOTES<br />
«A challenge for everyone who<br />
takes part. A dream for those<br />
who stay at home.»<br />
– Thierry Sabine –<br />
«When we go up a dune,<br />
we drive up like a snake, slowly<br />
working our way up to the top.<br />
We cannot afford to come to a<br />
stop, because then you can get<br />
stuck very quickly.» – Carlos Sainz –<br />
«Of course the rally is dangerous,<br />
but I wouldn’t abolish it for that<br />
reason. We have to think of<br />
what can be done to reduce<br />
the number of accidents. Or<br />
at least to have fewer fatal<br />
accidents.» – Jutta Kleinschmidt –<br />
«You either love the rally or you hate it.»<br />
– Toby Price, driver –<br />
«Dakar Rally: One dead,<br />
several injured. Hey people,<br />
fly to the sea and relax.<br />
But what’s the point in<br />
pelting through the desert as fast<br />
as possible? So you don’t<br />
have to see all the poor,<br />
hungry and sick children?»<br />
–Wolfgang J. Reuss, satirist –<br />
The luxurious way of life | 129
DRIVE STYLE<br />
Pablo Picasso with his Hispano-Suiza.<br />
Marc Birkigt<br />
Damian Mateu<br />
130 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DRIVE STYLE<br />
THE WOOD<strong>EN</strong><br />
TORPEDO<br />
Originally produced for race driver André Dubonnet,<br />
the Hispano-Suiza H6C «Tulipwood» Torpedo,<br />
with its planked wooden design, remains<br />
a fascinating piece of automotive history.<br />
Anka Refghi<br />
Blackhawk Museum<br />
It was 1904 when Spanish financier Damian<br />
Mateu founded «La Hispano-Suiza de Automoviles»<br />
in Barcelona and named gifted<br />
Swiss engineer Marc Birkigt technical director on<br />
the same day. Under Birkigt, Hispano-Suiza soon<br />
became one of the most decorated car brands of<br />
the pre-war years, at the same level as Rolls-<br />
Royce or Bugatti. Among the fans of the luxurious<br />
Hispano-Suiza vehicles were King Alfonso XIII of<br />
Spain, dictator Francisco Franco, Prince Hendrik<br />
of the Netherlands and Pablo Picasso.<br />
Extraordinary design<br />
When Hispano-Suiza presented its model H6 at<br />
the Paris Salon in 1919, the industry was amazed.<br />
With its 6.6-litre, six-cylinder engine, overhead<br />
camshaft, duel ignition and a four-wheel power<br />
brake, which was later licensed to Rolls-Royce,<br />
the H6 was well ahead of its time. Hispano-Suiza<br />
only offered the bare chassis in various lengths.<br />
This led to the world’s leading car body makers<br />
virtually falling over themselves for permission to<br />
make their body designs as individual and<br />
The luxurious way of life | 131
DRIVE STYLE<br />
«La Hispano-Suiza de Automoviles» motor<br />
company.<br />
spectacular as possible for their exclusive clientèle.<br />
The Hispano-Suiza H6C 1924 was as<br />
wooden design produced for the pilot and race<br />
driver André Dubonnet for his participation in the<br />
Targa Florio, a long-distance race played out on<br />
the mountain roads of Sicily. The spectacular design<br />
would go down in motoring history. The car<br />
was perfect for long distances, with an 8-litre,<br />
6-cylinder engine generating 200 hp, together with<br />
a deeper fitted radiator and a 175-litre tank in the<br />
rear. To save weight, Dubonnet hired the French<br />
plane manufacturer Nieuport Astra Aviation to create<br />
the spectacular lightweight wooden construction,<br />
which had to weigh no more than 45 kilos. The<br />
name «Tulipwood» came from the false assumption<br />
that this wheeled work of art was planked with the<br />
material. Nieuport in fact used mahogany planks<br />
for the finish, held together by thousands of brass<br />
rivets. Both the mudguards and headlights could<br />
be removed for races to significantly improve aerodynamics.<br />
Dubonnet came in 6th place in the<br />
Targa Florio. In the Italian Coppa Florio circuit race,<br />
Dubonnet came 5th in the overall competition and<br />
won his category of cars with engines larger than<br />
4.5 litres. Although this was an impressive result,<br />
the real attraction was the car itself. The Hispano-Suiza<br />
H6C was later converted for road use<br />
and can be seen today in the Blackhawk Museum<br />
in California, albeit a little «over-restored».<br />
The flying stork<br />
Since the end of the First World War, the cars<br />
of Hispano-Suiza have been decorated with<br />
one of the most elegant radiator mascots,<br />
the «cigogne volante», the flying stork. The stork<br />
was the lucky symbol for the squadron of French<br />
captain Georges Marie Ludovic Jules Guynemer,<br />
whose S.P.A.D. fighters were fitted with Hispano-Suiza<br />
engines during the war. The front of the radiator also featured<br />
the company’s coat of arms with two wings, which combined the<br />
national colours of Spain and Switzerland.<br />
132 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
AUTOMOTIVE<br />
BOOKS<br />
1 For hippies and workmen<br />
No other vehicle has created so many happy memories<br />
for its owners and given them so much freedom as<br />
the Volkswagen Camper, a love story with an everlasting<br />
happy ending. This book is dedicated to the Camper’s<br />
owners, fans and admirers around the world. It is a<br />
homage to freedom, versatility and the courage to be<br />
yourself. From China to America, from Great Britain<br />
to Japan, from Australia to its German homeland, the<br />
Camper brings people together and has countless<br />
personal stories to tell.<br />
Bulli Love<br />
Edwin Baaske<br />
Delius Klasing Verlag<br />
2<br />
1<br />
Exclusive Yacht Clubs<br />
Svante Domizlaff<br />
Delius Klasing Verlag<br />
2 Members only?<br />
New York, Hamburg, Monaco, Palma, London: of all<br />
the yachting clubs in the world, only a handful stand out<br />
thanks to their history, their sporting activities and the<br />
example they set for society. Once the reserve of<br />
eccentric old men, they have grown into businesses<br />
with modern company structures, ready and able<br />
to organise large sporting events. This book offers a<br />
glimpse behind the scenes and shows, for example,<br />
how the Royal Club Nautico Palma de Mallorca changed<br />
from a socialite hotspot centred around actor and<br />
pirate film hero Errol Flynn to one of the world’s leading<br />
sailing clubs under the active patronage of the king<br />
of Spain, himself a passionate sailor. In Spain and<br />
around the world, famous and influential people such<br />
as Aga Khan, the Roosevelt family and members of<br />
the British monarchy have participated in the club’s<br />
sporting and social success. Values like tradition,<br />
sportsmanship, seamanship and etiquette are treasured<br />
and protected accordingly by the yacht clubs. The<br />
£book «Exclusive Yacht Clubs» explains the structures<br />
of these exclusive organisations, exploring their<br />
meaning and history, as well as the people who have<br />
shaped them and the ships that sail under their flag.<br />
Readers will also find out how to become a member.<br />
3 On the Road<br />
Get your motor running, head out on the highway.<br />
Route 66 is arguably the most legendary road<br />
in the world. Photographer Christophe Géral and<br />
author Stéphane Dugast set out in style on a<br />
Harley Davidson to find out whether this legend is<br />
still alive. From Chicago to Los Angeles, their<br />
journey takes them 3,933 miles through the endless<br />
desert expanses in the heart of America. Along the<br />
way, they meet bikers and barmen, cowboys and<br />
Indians, and discover more about the Wild West and<br />
its legends and secrets than they would have<br />
dared dream.<br />
Route 66<br />
Christophe Géral &<br />
Stéphane Dugast<br />
National Geographic<br />
3<br />
The luxurious way of life | 133
DRIVE STYLE<br />
THE NEXT<br />
WAVE<br />
OFSUVS<br />
As the variety of traditional 4x4 manufacturers<br />
increases, even luxury car makers are<br />
switching to crossovers and are breaking<br />
all records. Market research predicts<br />
that demand in premium segments will<br />
continue to rise.<br />
Stefan Lüscher, Matthias Pfannmüller, Hubertus Hoslin<br />
Nick Dimbleby, factory<br />
2<br />
4<br />
134 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DRIVE STYLE<br />
As a result, Alfa Romeo, Tesla and even Rolls-Royce are planning<br />
to release their own softroaders, with Lamborghini also catching<br />
up. This subjective selection of current and coming models<br />
shows how big the choice will be by 2017.<br />
1 | Brit-Buggy: Ariel Nomad<br />
This small British manufacturer is famous for its wacky, light and very fast<br />
mid-engine sports car, the Atom. The Somerset-based producer has now<br />
come up with the Nomad, a stripped-down two seater intended for tarmac-free<br />
driving. This is a new design, with just the floor plate, steering column, instruments<br />
and pedals coming from the Atom. It is powered by a 2.4-L-iVTEC<br />
four-cylinder engine from Honda that generates 235 hp. Together with a<br />
weight of 640 kilos, it can go from 0 to 60 in 3.4 seconds. The Nomad is of<br />
course great on the road too, providing you get special permission. Off-road<br />
factor: Extremely high, extreme fun.<br />
3<br />
2 | Ditching the pounds: Audi Q7<br />
The second generation of the Q7, available from<br />
this summer, has undergone a bit of a facelift. It’s<br />
tighter, more chiselled and sinewy. It’s also shorter<br />
and leaner than it’s predecessor, measuring 5.05 m<br />
long, 1.97 m wide and 1.74 m high. A lot has<br />
changed under the bonnet too. Thanks to its lightweight<br />
design, the new Q7 has shed a whole<br />
325 kilos, not only earning respect but also making<br />
it more modern and agile in all regards. Initially<br />
available will be the 3.0 TFSI with 333 hp, and the<br />
3.0 TDI with 272 hp. Both versions feature an<br />
eight-speed automatic gearbox. A plug-in hybrid<br />
version, the Q7 E-Tron Quattro, has already been<br />
announced and boasts 373 hp of power, 35 miles<br />
of purely electric range and standard fuel consumption<br />
of 166 mpg. Off-road factor: Satisfactory.<br />
3 | All-terrain opulence: Bentley Bentayga<br />
The boys from Crewe have already produced offroad<br />
cars, but these were custom models for Arabic<br />
and Asian customers. 2016 will see the standard<br />
model, whose name comes from a mountain<br />
on Gran Canaria but is also supposed to reflect the<br />
company’s name and the taiga (no, not the Lada<br />
Taiga, it’s a type of forest that’s supposed to be a<br />
synonym for wilderness). It’s clear, then, that the<br />
luxury 4x4 wants to be taken seriously as an offroader.<br />
Bentley are still keeping their lips sealed<br />
about the drive. What we do know is that alongside<br />
the W12 twin-turbo version (approx 600 hp /<br />
800 Nm), there will be a four-litre V8 turbo and a<br />
hybrid model. Off-road factor: Pretty good, but it’s<br />
too pretty to get muddy.<br />
1<br />
4 | SUV XXL: Cadillac Escalade<br />
If you’re the type to get misty eyed when reminiscing<br />
about the great off-roaders of old, this gigantic<br />
Caddy could be for you. The fourth generation is<br />
5.18 metres long and, just like the good old days,<br />
is powered by a 6.2-litre V8 petrol engine with<br />
426 hp and 621 Nm of torque. The first Escalade<br />
appeared in 1999, and yet the manufacturer<br />
speaks about «a long tradition in the premium market».<br />
Fuel consumption? Yeah … let’s skip that.<br />
Among the other highlights are LED headlights and<br />
22-inch rims, along with space for up to eight<br />
(optional) or a head-up display. As you’d expect,<br />
the interior is enormous and very well insulated.<br />
For those who want it even bigger, there’s a<br />
5.7-metre long version. Off-road factor: Excellent,<br />
providing you have the right tyres.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 135
DRIVE STYLE<br />
5 | The bargain bin: Dacia Duster and Co.<br />
So far, the secret to the Romanians’ success has<br />
been to produce cars as simply shaped as possible<br />
to keep the cost of the metal sheets down. The<br />
Duster may be five year old, but the timeless,<br />
4.32-metre long 4x4 is still attractive and looks<br />
more robust than it actually is. It cheerfully chugs<br />
along powered by petrol (115 / 125 hp) or diesel<br />
(110 hp) engines. Off-road factor: No-fuss countryside<br />
conquest. For another eastern European alternative,<br />
look no further than the Lada 4x4 (it used<br />
to be called the Niva and is sold in some markets<br />
as the Taiga). It’s reputation for indestructibility is<br />
just as legendary as its off-road factor.<br />
5<br />
6 | Mainstream: Ford Edge<br />
Following on from the Kuga and EcoSport, Ford<br />
now hopes its new 4x4 will take it up in the world.<br />
The Edge, available around the world later this<br />
year, wants to be seen not as a softroader, but<br />
rather as a trendy full-size car with gritty looks.<br />
Coming in at a considerable 4.8 metres in length,<br />
the five-door car looks stocky and robust enough,<br />
but its average ground clearance and low rolling<br />
resistance tyres make it clear that the Ford is designed<br />
for the road. Four-wheel drive is available at<br />
extra cost. Technical highlights include adaptive<br />
steering, along with optional interior noise reduction<br />
or front split view camera. The Ford is only<br />
available in a turbo diesel version with 180 hp (sixspeed<br />
gearbox) or 210 hp (six-speed automatic).<br />
Offroad factor: Think about the leasing return!<br />
6<br />
7 | Beast from the East: Honda HR-V<br />
Honda’s 4.3-metre long second generation of the<br />
HR-V (the first was available from 1999 to 2005) will<br />
be available from late summer and is another 4x4<br />
below the CR-V. The name stands for «High Rider<br />
Vehicle» and tells you pretty much all you need to<br />
know. This is a compact car on stilts (based on the<br />
Jazz), with optional four-wheel drive, designed to<br />
take on the Opel (Vauxhall) Mokka and Co. The<br />
1.6-litre diesel engine generates 120 hp, the 1.5-litre<br />
petrol engine gets 130. Fuel consumption is 70 and<br />
54 mpg respectively. Both engines come with sixspeed<br />
manual gearboxes (with twin clutch available<br />
for the petrol engine) and do 0 to 60 in around ten<br />
and a half seconds. Modern infotainment systems<br />
and camera are included, along with a radarsupported<br />
assistance system. The boot also<br />
boasts 455 to 1,025 litres of space. Off-road factor:<br />
More ground clearance please.<br />
7<br />
136 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DRIVE STYLE<br />
8<br />
8 | This cat’s got claws: Jaguar F-Pace<br />
This big cat from Britain will be stalking the countryside<br />
from the start of next year. Jaguar’s first SUV<br />
is designed as a high-performance crossover<br />
based on an innovative aluminium platform. With<br />
space for five, this lightweight alternative is set to<br />
challenge the top dogs of the premium segment<br />
like the Audi Q5, BMW X3 or Porsche Macan. This<br />
«family sports car» will become Jaguar’s fifth<br />
model series and is driven by new and efficient<br />
four and six-cylinder engines (diesel 163-300 hp,<br />
petrol up to 380 supercharged hp). A 500 hp V8<br />
version is due to follow. The off-road factor is<br />
promising given that the four-wheel drive system<br />
comes from Land Rover.<br />
9<br />
9 | Confident and carefree: Kia Sorento<br />
The third generation of the 4x4 from Korea goes up<br />
against its established competitors with well-balanced<br />
design, much room and only slightly larger<br />
dimensions (L / W / H: 4.78 / 1.89 / 1.69). It’s confident<br />
and well made, with a seven year warranty. The<br />
interior features fold-down rear seats, which can<br />
also be pushed forward and back. Folding down<br />
the rear seats can easily be done from the boot,<br />
which offers up to 1730 litres of space, with a third<br />
row of seats available as an optional extra. There<br />
is also plenty of equipment to choose from.<br />
The 2.2-litre, four-cylinder turbo diesel generates<br />
200 hp and 441 Nm of torque, can reach over<br />
120 mph , does 42.8 mpg, has fuel consumption of<br />
6.6 liters and comes with a six-speed automatic<br />
gearbox. Off-road factor: Not bad.<br />
10<br />
10 | A real live wire: Lexus RX 200T<br />
Around one year after the NX, Lexus has renewed<br />
its successful RX model. It too features an extrovert<br />
design, which is even more special in the dynamic<br />
F-Sport look. The 4.89-m long five-seater is<br />
powered by the same two-litre turbo petrol engine<br />
as the NX 200t, generating 230 hp and 350 Nm of<br />
torque. This is the first drive unit in the world to<br />
have a water-cooled cylinder head for better exhaust<br />
properties. The price of 65,000 Francs includes<br />
a six-speed automatic gear box, with the<br />
RX 350 offering a beefier 3.5-litre V6. The RX 450 h<br />
is the top model with a premium hybrid drive<br />
(approx. 300 hp), and is due out at the end of <strong>2015</strong>.<br />
Off-road factor: Try and find a field with a plug<br />
socket.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 137
DRIVE STYLE<br />
11 | Al dente: Maserati Levante<br />
The Italians have been flirting with the idea of a<br />
sporty luxury SUV for years and are due to make<br />
an advance in 2016. In both design and technology,<br />
the Levante takes its cue from the four-door Ghibli<br />
S Q4. In other words, up to 50 percent of the<br />
power can be redirected to the front wheels via a<br />
multiple-disc clutch. The top-of-the-range model<br />
features the well-known 3.8-litre V8 biturbo with<br />
up to 530 hp. Moving down the price scale, there<br />
are turbocharged six-cylinders (petrol and diesel)<br />
generating 250 to 410 hp. The Levante will celebrate<br />
its official première in January at the North<br />
American International Auto Show in Detroit. Offroad<br />
factor: Let’s go find some truffles!<br />
11<br />
12 | FWD only for now: Ssangyong Tivoli<br />
Following on from the Korando, which enjoyed<br />
great popularity in Switzerland, the South Koreans<br />
have extended their product range downwards<br />
this summer. But Ssangyong claim that there is<br />
much more to the appeal of the 4.2-metre long<br />
five-seater than the price, five-year warranty or<br />
seven air bags. In terms of flowery design language,<br />
they appear to have excelled themselves:<br />
«Nature-born 3 Motion – rhythmic, dynamic, dignified».<br />
The vehicle is powered by a new and efficient<br />
1.6-litre four-cylinder petrol engine with 126 hp, but<br />
currently only offers front-wheel drive. This makes<br />
for a negligible off-road factor. Three equipment<br />
levels are available, with diesel and four-wheel<br />
drive versions planned.<br />
13 | Plug and Play: Venturi America<br />
15 years ago, Monegasque Gildo Pastor bought<br />
the French sports car company Venturi and turned<br />
it into a manufacturer of electric vehicles. The latest<br />
model is the America. Presented in 2014 for the<br />
30th brand anniversary, the «high-voltage buggy»<br />
is taking e-mobility to the dunes and beaches.<br />
Powered by a 53-kWh lithium-ion polymer battery<br />
and two electric motors (300 kW / 480 Nm), the<br />
open-top two-seater can go from 0 to 60 in just<br />
four and a half seconds and can keep going all the<br />
way to over 120 mph in 14 seconds (!). The maximum<br />
speed is 136 mph with a range of 96 miles.<br />
The America is made from aluminium, carbon and<br />
plastic, and is rear-wheel driven. But be quick, only<br />
25 have been made. Off-road factor: Extraordinaire!<br />
12<br />
13<br />
138 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
I<br />
I SEE<br />
BLUE<br />
Inky, light and Mediterranean shades of blue<br />
are all the rage this autumn. Combine<br />
elegant, confident shades of dark<br />
blue with a light grey for an understated,<br />
very masculine look.<br />
BY LAURA<br />
VIII<br />
II<br />
I JOOP<br />
II EMPORIO ARMANI<br />
III OMEGA<br />
IV BULGARI<br />
V JOOP<br />
VI RALPH LAUR<strong>EN</strong><br />
VII THOMAS SABO<br />
VIII FAY<br />
VII<br />
III<br />
VI<br />
V<br />
IV<br />
The luxurious way of life | 139
DRIVE STYLE<br />
A<br />
STAR<br />
ON AN EXT<strong>EN</strong>DED TOUR<br />
77 years of Mercedes four-wheel drive:<br />
Off road with the silver star since 1938.<br />
Jochen Kruse<br />
Daimler’s innovative AWD tractor with four-wheel steering, 1919<br />
The world’s first four-wheel drive car, according to<br />
Mercedes: the Dernburg car of 1907.<br />
«Paul Daimler designed the<br />
first passenger car with<br />
four-wheel drive in 1903»<br />
The eight-wheel, amphibious MTw1 personnel carrier<br />
from 1928.<br />
140 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DRIVE STYLE<br />
The latest generation of Mercedes 4x4s has a<br />
long family history. The first branch of the<br />
family tree was the G5, presented at the<br />
London Motor Show in October 1938 as the «colonial<br />
and hunting car» after the German military<br />
showed no interest in the vehicle. The model<br />
W152 (1937–41) featured a four-wheel drive and<br />
switchable four-wheel steering. Three chassis variants<br />
were available as standard: a military «bucket»<br />
design, a touring car with side windows and tropicalised<br />
folding top, along with a simpler bucket<br />
car for use by the police, for example. Power was<br />
provided by a two-litre, four-cylinder engine with<br />
45 hp at 3700 rpm. The four-wheel drive was fitted<br />
with three locking differentials and the gearbox<br />
provided five forward gears, the first of which was<br />
reserved solely for off-road driving with a reduction<br />
ratio of 7.22:1. The handbrake acted on the<br />
drive shaft, with the wheels all suspended individually.<br />
The G5 had a top speed of 53 mph. With the<br />
four-wheel steering activated, the owner’s manual<br />
recommended not exceeding 18 mph. Despite its<br />
technical perfection and the range of available<br />
models, the G5 remained a fringe product, with<br />
only 378 vehicles built in total.<br />
The history of the four-wheel drive goes back even further<br />
As early as 1903, Paul Daimler, son of the company founder, produced the<br />
first design with four-wheel drive. In 1907, the so-called Dernburg car was<br />
produced for travelling in Africa. Based on a truck, it was designed to function<br />
as a passenger car. In 1934, production began on the powerful, six-wheel G4<br />
car (model W31) at the company’s plant in Untertürkheim near Stuttgart.<br />
Power was transmitted to the two rear solid axles via the drive shaft. Two<br />
locking differentials ensured good off-road mobility, with a gradeability of 43<br />
percent at full load. Even so, only 57 vehicles were produced in all motor<br />
variants by 1939.<br />
Aside from these, Mercedes has always had off-road-capable commercial<br />
vehicles in its product range, from the legendary Unimog to trucks and delivery<br />
vehicles like the Vito and Sprinter. But that is a whole different chapter.<br />
Almost 50 years separate the first<br />
Unimog (above) and the M-Class (below).<br />
4x4s have since ceased being solely<br />
commercial vehicles, but have become<br />
lifestyle symbols.<br />
From the luxury G4 cabriolet with eight in-line cylinders and two rear axles to the G5<br />
mountain rescue vehicle, Mercedes has never been short of technical ideas.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 141
QUATTROPORTE GTS<br />
G<strong>EN</strong>TLEMAN WITH 530 HP<br />
OR THE G<strong>EN</strong>TLE CONQUEROR<br />
Great figures from history have crossed over the Great<br />
St. Bernhard pass. At around 2,500 m above sea<br />
level, it marks the border between the Aosta valley in<br />
Italy and the canton of Valais in Switzerland.<br />
Mirella Sidro
DRIVE STYLE<br />
In 1800, Napoleon Bonaparte had his historic<br />
crossing immortalised in a famous painting.<br />
Sitting grandly astride his rearing horse, he<br />
gazes towards the viewer as he rides into Italy.<br />
According to legend, the pass was also used by<br />
Hannibal when he crossed the Alps in the depths<br />
of winter with his elephants to conquer Rome.<br />
You can get an idea of how difficult this crossing<br />
must have been by visiting the hospice in the<br />
summer months. In temperatures of around three<br />
degrees Celsius, you are greeted by an icy wind<br />
that blows over the mountain lake and the<br />
snow-covered cliffs.<br />
Now an Italian is crossing back to conquer the<br />
world, but this time in peace. It was born in the<br />
northern Italian city of Modena, in the Avvocato<br />
Giovanni Agnelli plant. It has been built here since<br />
1963. It is the legendary Maserati Quattroporte.<br />
This particular Maserati Quattroporte GTS is travelling<br />
from its home to the town of Chichester in<br />
southern England to visit the Goodwood Festival<br />
of Speed. It sits regally, painted in rebel black, with<br />
530 horsepower and eight cylinders under its<br />
stylishly shaped bonnet. The radiator grille is<br />
adorned with the logo shaped like Neptune’s trident.<br />
Its design reflects the Italian attitude to life:<br />
speed and sport combined with comfort and<br />
luxury.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 143
DRIVE STYLE<br />
144 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DRIVE STYLE<br />
Italians place just as much importance on comfort and style as they do on<br />
good food. The interior of the Quattroporte GTS is available in three colour<br />
combinations. For the extravagant, there is red leather combined with coalcoloured<br />
elements woven from silk threads created by luxury designer Ermenegildo<br />
Zegna. The driver is virtually lying on a bed of finest silk whilst hurtling<br />
along the road at up to 190 mph in comfort mode, or in sport mode to enjoy<br />
the full roar of the engine.<br />
Swiss vineyards and French champagne<br />
The trip from Modena to Chichester is approximately 930 miles. Before continuing<br />
to France, the first break in the journey comes in the idyllic resort town<br />
of Montreux on the banks of Lake Geneva in Switzerland. We stay overnight<br />
in the famous «Fairmont Le Montreux Palace» luxury resort, which lies directly<br />
on the lake surrounded by vineyards and mountain chains. The hotel is an<br />
artefact from the golden age of Art Nouveau, when the rich and glamorous<br />
would gather at magnificent parties. As you wander through the splendid<br />
lobby and the corridors that lead to the traditionally decorated rooms and<br />
suites, you sense the ghosts of history right up to the present day.<br />
Reims could be described as France’s Mecca for history and cuisine. Or<br />
simply as the place where God goes to eat. This is where the grapes that<br />
produce champagne are grown and is home to the world’s greatest temple<br />
for gourmets. We stay at the five-star château «L’Assiette Champenoise». The<br />
guest house combines bourgeois and contemporary style, reflected in the<br />
modern decoration of the generous rooms. We dine in the château’s own<br />
restaurant, run by the master of the house Arnaud Lallement, one of the best<br />
chefs in the world. His culinary skills have been awarded three Michelin stars<br />
and five toques from Gault & Millau. The chef’s creations are rounded off with<br />
champagne and cheeses from the region.<br />
On the way to the Eurotunnel, we pass France’s most famous race track at<br />
Circuit de Reims-Geux, whose doors were shut in 1970. The corners were<br />
deemed too dangerous after many drivers lost their lives. Today, the only<br />
noise heard here is the chirping of crickets in the fields that surround the<br />
skeletons of the pit stops and stands. Nevertheless, the legendary track is<br />
worth a short stop.<br />
Fast cars and slow food<br />
The quote «We have fast cars and slow food» from<br />
the northern Italian region of Emilia Romagna<br />
sums up the region pretty well. «Slow Food» promotes<br />
the pleasurable and conscious attitude<br />
towards the food that comes from here: Aceto<br />
Balsamico di Modena, Lambrusco Modenese,<br />
Parmigiano Reggiano. The list of culinary delights<br />
goes on and on. Before the journey begins, we are<br />
spoiled with Italian dining culture.<br />
In good company<br />
The Goodwood Festival of Speed is the catwalk for the fastest and most<br />
beautiful cars from all eras from around the world. The festival is held in the<br />
grounds of Goodwood House, owned by racing enthusiast Lord March, and<br />
is famous for its 1.15-mile hill race. Participants must overcome nine corners,<br />
partially boxed in by a high stone wall. For three days, visitors can watch the<br />
priceless cars in the pits and in the rally. It is essentially a huge open-air car<br />
museum. Maserati is also in attendance to showcase its models. With a bit of<br />
luck, we’ll be able to sit in the GT as passengers in the race and feel the power<br />
of its engine. Goodwood is an adrenaline-fuelled end to a stylish journey.<br />
«Neptune’s trident is the sceptre of the world» goes a saying from the 18th<br />
century. Maserati’s logo seems to be a very good choice.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 145
FASHION<br />
Katharine Hepburn | Woman of the Year<br />
146 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
MOVIES<br />
CREATE<br />
FASHION<br />
We still don’t know how<br />
often a film star creates<br />
a fashion trend by wearing<br />
a particular dress, suit or<br />
accessory. But we do know<br />
that film exerts an astonishing<br />
impact on fashion.<br />
Lilly Steffen<br />
Annex<br />
Dorothy Lamour<br />
«What I wear<br />
attracts millions.»<br />
– Dorothy Lamour –<br />
The luxurious way of life | 147
Marlene Dietrich<br />
A Classic – the Marlene Slacks<br />
The fact that actors can continue to play their roles in what is meant to be their private lives has<br />
a lot to do with their outfits. Marlene Dietrich had designer Travis Banton to thank for the<br />
sparkling appearances that were defined by her unique and provocative style. Banton’s contrived,<br />
tried-and-tested masculine suits ensured Dietrich always made her trademark grand<br />
entrance, even when she was not filming.<br />
148 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
FASHION<br />
«I never go outside unless<br />
I look like Joan Crawford<br />
the movie star. If you want to see<br />
the girl next door,<br />
go next door.» – Joan Crawford –<br />
the personification of big city attitudes. Our<br />
grandmothers’ generation discarded their corsets,<br />
pearls and fringes to dance to the rhythms<br />
of the Charleston and the Shimmy. This generation<br />
was replaced by strong career women<br />
like Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo and Norma<br />
Shearer – the kind of self-made women who<br />
wore body-hugging dresses and classic tailormade<br />
suits. With her slacks, flowing dresses<br />
and short hair, Joan Crawford became the girl<br />
next door with an exquisite and expensive<br />
wardrobe. During the first big break in her long<br />
career, she engaged Gilbert Adrian, MGM’s<br />
star costume designer, to be her stylist. Strong<br />
women like Crawford had to dress the part.<br />
Adrian designed geometrically cut dresses with<br />
huge collars, wasp waists and shoulder pads.<br />
This became Crawford’s signature style and<br />
Macy’s sold over half a million of such broad<br />
shouldered creations.<br />
Fashions gradually became more and more diverse<br />
with the advent of the sporty Katherine Hepburn,<br />
the sex bomb Marilyn Monroe, the young rebels<br />
James Dean and Marlon Brando and the erotic<br />
Sophia Loren. In the eighties, Madonna put fishnet<br />
vests and lacy gloves on the map in her movie<br />
«Desperately seeking Susan».<br />
CJoan Crawford | Letty Lynton<br />
ostume designers have a massive influence on films<br />
because they determine the visual appearance of each<br />
character. Their work also determines whether a production<br />
is successful. Costume designers have a great<br />
deal of responsibility: they are not only creative artists,<br />
but often also historians, researchers and skilled artisans,<br />
all rolled into one. Cinema and haute couture play<br />
by different rules. Some costume designers have even<br />
reinvented the colour scale. For example, Orry-Kelly realized that a rustcoloured<br />
dress would look blood-red in a black-and-white film, making it<br />
much more intense than in real life.<br />
Wardrobe of the stars<br />
Dressed in the slacks of a Marlene, the little black dress of an Audrey or<br />
the leather jacket of a Brando, even your average girl or boy-next-door<br />
would feel that little bit more rakish, daredevil and extravagant. Marlene<br />
Dietrich had a particularly powerful influence as the curtain gradually rose<br />
to reveal the emancipated woman. Girls with bobs and the skimpy satin<br />
dresses of the Charleston era looked like Louise Brooks and Clara Bow,<br />
Costumes create Actors<br />
In the film «Sabrina» Audrey Hepburn played a<br />
chauffeur’s daughter who is sent to Paris for cooking<br />
classes. When she returns home, she has<br />
transformed herself into a sophisticated young<br />
lady with the help of French couture. To illustrate<br />
this metamorphosis, Paramount hired a genuine<br />
French fashion designer – Hubert de Givenchy.<br />
The first collection from this young designer had<br />
sent shockwaves through the fashion world, so it<br />
was not surprising that the movie was awarded an<br />
Oscar for Costume Design. A lifelong friendship<br />
evolved between de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn.<br />
From then on, the French designer was the<br />
star’s private and professional stylist. His sense of<br />
colours lit up the silver screen. His red coats, applegreen<br />
suits and that shocking pink dress really<br />
caught the audience’s imagination. And then there<br />
were his hats. They provided the perfect frame for<br />
Hepburn’s face. Audrey Hepburn herself commented:<br />
«Givenchy’s creations always gave me a<br />
sense of security and self-confidence. Work was<br />
much easier when I knew my appearance was<br />
The luxurious way of life | 149
FASHION<br />
perfect. It was the same in my private life:<br />
Givenchy’s outfits gave me a sense of being protected<br />
when I was with strangers or in unfamiliar<br />
situations because I felt so good in them. I have<br />
been shaped by Hubert de Givenchy.» If clothes<br />
make the man, then costumes certainly make actors.<br />
And costume designers create fashions that<br />
are desired by millions of people.<br />
Design or Disaster!<br />
Film history has also had its fair share of fashion<br />
flops. In 1931, the famous Coco Chanel failed<br />
by clinging too hard to the very particular style<br />
of her label. Her inflexibility meant she failed to<br />
recognize a new fashion trend and her costumes<br />
for Gloria Swanson in «Tonight or Never» proved<br />
to be a flop. In brief, it is the substance of failures.<br />
Coco Chanel failed to calculate how long it takes<br />
for a film to move from the design phase in<br />
pre-production to being ready for release. In the<br />
meantime a new, accentuated silhouette had come<br />
into fashion and longer skirts were now a must.<br />
Madame Chanel’s mistake was to stubbornly cling<br />
on to her designs from the late 1920s.<br />
Gloria Swanson | Father Takes a Wife<br />
The Concept of the Muse<br />
The Thirties and Forties were the heyday of the<br />
Hollywood Look. During this time, a new kind of<br />
femininity was created, which swept through the<br />
stores on New York’s 5th Avenue. Now cinema<br />
either competed against fashion designers or<br />
tried to flirt with them. Adrian was the most influential<br />
costume designer in Hollywood. He mainly<br />
worked for MGM, where he styled Greta Garbo,<br />
Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow, Lana Turner, Judy<br />
Garland, Katharine Hepburn and many others between<br />
1928 and 1948. Adrian was the pioneer<br />
for a generation of costume designers<br />
who were couturiers at heart. The movies were<br />
their boutiques, the actresses their models and the<br />
silver screen their catwalk. Today, when fashion<br />
magazines adorn their covers with images of major<br />
stars, it is only because these actresses have contracts<br />
with the top labels. Fashion is once again<br />
staking its claim on movie stars. The concept of the<br />
muse is the latest episode in this relationship between<br />
film and fashion.<br />
«We had<br />
stumbled on a real<br />
recipe for success: a<br />
non-stop fashion show<br />
of amazing dresses.»<br />
– Gloria Swanson –<br />
Reference List<br />
Film and Fashion // Fashion in Film<br />
Regine and Peter W. Engelmeier<br />
Prestel-Verlag<br />
Fashion in Film<br />
Véronique Le Bris<br />
Edel Verlag<br />
Muses and Designers<br />
While Lauren Bacall was raising the bar in Hollywood with<br />
her masculine suits, in Paris Dior was launching his<br />
New Look. They were followed by Ava Gardner in her pencil<br />
skirt, Audrey Hepburn with her Givenchy silhouette and<br />
Brigitte Bardot in her Mary Quant mini skirt. As for<br />
Catherine Deneuve, she idolized Saint Laurent, while<br />
Jeanne Moreau was devoted to Pierre Cardin.<br />
150 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
BLACK<br />
WHITE<br />
Who loves black and white?<br />
If bright autumn shades are not for you,<br />
why not step back and dress in<br />
eternally chic black and white? The perfect<br />
way to bring classic black<br />
bang up to date.<br />
BY LAURA<br />
I<br />
VII<br />
II<br />
V<br />
VI<br />
V<br />
I HERMÈS<br />
II BURBERRY<br />
III MICHAEL KORS<br />
IV MICHAEL KORS<br />
V HERMÈS<br />
VI MOLLY BRACK<strong>EN</strong><br />
VII RALPH LAUR<strong>EN</strong><br />
III<br />
IV<br />
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FASHION<br />
10 QUESTIONS FOR<br />
The «Basic Instinct» diva talks about fashion,<br />
beauty and the love of her life.<br />
Which garment is always in your bag when you travel?<br />
Black leather leggings and a white shirt or Cashmere<br />
pullover – you’re always well-dressed, and with high heels<br />
you always look sexy.<br />
Which character traits can you enhance with<br />
the right clothing?<br />
Contentment and self-confidence.<br />
When did you discover your love of fashion?<br />
Oh, I was three or four years old when I put<br />
on my first little fashion show in my parents’ bedroom.<br />
Later I used to browse through my mother’s<br />
magazines and cut out my favourite outfits.<br />
Can you remember your<br />
key moment in fashion?<br />
I’ve always loved movies<br />
from the Twenties, Thirties<br />
and Forties. The women<br />
looked so fabulous.<br />
Their clothes were really<br />
elegant and feminine.<br />
That really impressed<br />
me and I wanted to<br />
dress like that too.<br />
You’ve started modelling for the Airfield label again.<br />
How has the industry changed over recent years?<br />
Everything has speeded up. Now a photo shoot only<br />
lasts a day. And the fabrics are now much more comfortable<br />
and beautiful. The emphasis has shifted towards<br />
comfort.<br />
Is there a special source of inspiration in your life for<br />
new projects?<br />
It comes from within. As soon as I feel something could be<br />
good, I give it a try. It’s important to listen to your inner<br />
voice.<br />
What is the love of your life?<br />
My three children – I can’t imagine life without them.<br />
What are your best attributes?<br />
Warmth, honesty and a great deal of discipline.<br />
Have many of your dreams come true?<br />
Yes, lots of them. And the best thing is that it’s made me a<br />
very happy person.<br />
What does beauty mean to you?<br />
For me, beauty is something you can discover every day if<br />
you go out into the world with your eyes wide open.
I II<br />
III<br />
BY LAURA<br />
CASUALE<br />
l e a n c e<br />
<br />
IV<br />
<br />
Smart casual in attention-grabbing colours.<br />
Women who dress in smart casual style like to look<br />
relaxed but elegant, so they often opt for jeans and a blouse.<br />
Give this style your own personal twist by<br />
accessorising in strong colours.<br />
V<br />
I BULGARI<br />
II FABRIC FRONTLINE<br />
III HERMÈS<br />
IV RALPH LAUR<strong>EN</strong><br />
V STEINWAY & SONS<br />
VI MICHAEL KORS<br />
VI<br />
The luxurious way of life | 153
PRES<strong>EN</strong>TS<br />
COLLAGES<br />
by Nora Ermatinger<br />
IIn the autumn of 2014, Nora Ermatinger completed her training in photo<br />
design. Internships with Dennis Savini and Gerry Nitsch taught her a<br />
great deal about photographing food and people. She also had an opportunity<br />
to assist Quentin Bacon in New York. Since then she has worked<br />
as a freelance photographer in fashion and features and has always enjoyed<br />
producing collages. She loves fashion photography because it gives her the<br />
freedom to be creative. It allows her to create different worlds and to work<br />
with some great people. For her, fashion and art photography are closely<br />
linked. The starting point for Nora Ermatinger’s collages is a particular emotion<br />
or mood, which she tries to communicate through the right images. She<br />
then thinks about colours and shapes and gathers ideas. In this way she soon<br />
has a specific image in her head. She then needs several shoots to complete<br />
the work. She uses Photoshop to combine the individual images and create<br />
the finished collage.<br />
She has founded the Nonophotography label with her colleague Noemi Bräm.<br />
The two photographers are working together to create a fashion portfolio.<br />
They have been photographing the collections of young designers and working<br />
with new shops.
FASHION<br />
156 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
FASHION<br />
160 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
FASHION<br />
The luxurious way of life | 161
FASHION<br />
2006–2011<br />
Liceo Artistico, Zürich<br />
2012–2014<br />
specialized course in photo design,<br />
Zurich School of Design<br />
2012–2014<br />
internships with photographers<br />
in Zurich and New York<br />
Since 2014<br />
freelance photographer, mainly in<br />
fashion and features<br />
www.noraermatinger.ch<br />
The luxurious way of life | 163
FASHION CLASSICS<br />
PONCHO<br />
Sarah Jessica Parker, Cara Delevingne,<br />
Olivia Palermo … there’s one thing they all<br />
have in common! Burberry ponchos –<br />
stylishly embellished with<br />
their own monogram.<br />
Lone K. Halvorsen<br />
Soft wool and cashmere blankets<br />
have become fashion must-haves<br />
thanks to the famous brand with its<br />
trademark checks. At last autumn’s<br />
fashion shows, Burberry designer Christopher<br />
Bailey casually draped ponchos – which looked<br />
remarkably like horse blankets – around the shoulders<br />
of his models, starting a real fashion mania.<br />
But unlike many garments, the poncho manages<br />
to stylishly bridge the gap between stable and<br />
catwalk. Ponchos have popped up regularly over<br />
the years, but Bailey looked back in the Burberry<br />
archives and was inspired by their vintage capes.<br />
Of course the other fashion houses have followed<br />
suit and produced ponchos that provide a stylish<br />
alternative to the coat this autumn.<br />
The word poncho comes from the language of the<br />
Mapuche (an indigenous tribe in South America).<br />
It is a sleeveless garment that is pulled over the<br />
head through an opening in the middle. The cape<br />
is often confused with the poncho, but the cape<br />
has slits for sleeves on both sides. In Europe, the<br />
poncho is only worn by women, but in South<br />
America it is popular with both sexes. This iconic<br />
style has been worn in Peru since the 5th century and is the embodiment<br />
of South America’s textile culture. Fashion was not the focus back then –<br />
ponchos were very functional garments because they protected the wearer<br />
from wind and weather.<br />
But the fashionable ponchos with traditional patterns would not make you<br />
look like a member of a Peruvian street band, so it’s important to follow a few<br />
rules: short women should wear short ponchos, tall women longer ponchos.<br />
And be careful with knitted accessories – after all, who wants to look like an<br />
alpaca? In this case a pair of fine leather gloves perfectly complements the<br />
look. Skinny jeans and boots are the classic look, but you could dare to try it<br />
with sneakers. Less is more – when you wear a stylish poncho you don’t want<br />
to steal its thunder. The beautiful Raquel Welch realized this when she wore<br />
little more than a poncho in her movie «Hanni Calder» in 1971. … We hope<br />
you’ve now learned that ponchos are not all about pan pipes!<br />
A cool gaze through narrowed eyes, a chewed cheroot<br />
in the corner of his mouth. Clint Eastwood was the<br />
man with the Colt and the poncho. Eastwood probably<br />
wore one of the first ethnic-inspired ponchos in his<br />
Spaghetti Western, «A Fistful of Dollars» A few years later<br />
he exchanged his poncho for a sports jacket and<br />
created a new hero, Dirty Harry.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 165
FASHION<br />
FAIRWAY FASHION<br />
GOLF<br />
No other sport celebrates its history quite like golf.<br />
And this includes golf fashions.<br />
Lone K. Halvorsen<br />
Kjus<br />
166 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
FASHION<br />
ZWhen the very first golfers teed off in the<br />
Scottish town of St. Andrews, they were<br />
wearing long, flowing robes. There’s some<br />
debate about whether it was the Scots or<br />
the Dutch who invented the game back in<br />
the 14th century. But at least we don’t have to ask<br />
whether they were allowed to wear jeans on the<br />
course.<br />
Dress code<br />
Golfing etiquette is very important. It governs players’<br />
behaviour but also stipulates that «suitable<br />
clothing» must be worn on the course. Golf’s<br />
rather antiquated image is a thing of the past, but<br />
many clubs still set a dress code or ask players not<br />
to wear certain garments. Women are generally<br />
not allowed to wear sleeveless tops without collars,<br />
and men are expected to wear collared shirts.<br />
And even on hot days, men and women can only<br />
wear shorts if they are the right length.<br />
Some golfers like to bend the rules, perhaps by<br />
wearing stiff trousers in gaudy colours. But there<br />
are other ways of standing out as a player. Even<br />
though the rules of etiquette still apply, golf fashions<br />
are constantly evolving. Top sportswear manufacturers<br />
are waking up to golf’s potential and are<br />
keen to ensure their elegant men’s and women’s<br />
outfits are stylishly displayed on the course.<br />
Clothing without compromises<br />
While playing a round of golf together, the famous<br />
Norwegian ski racer Lasse Kjus and Swiss investor<br />
Didi Serena decided to launch an exciting new<br />
sports collection based on high-performance textiles<br />
and strong designs. The main focus was on<br />
using very stretchy fabrics, which allow players the<br />
freedom of movement that is so vital when doing<br />
sport. What began as a skiing brand soon grew<br />
and expanded, and in 2010 they launched their<br />
first golf collection. «Kjus» clothing is made with<br />
innovative performance fabrics that are light, soft,<br />
quiet and stretchy. Keen golfers all over the world<br />
who are looking to make their mark in all conditions<br />
can rely on these materials to keep them<br />
feeling totally comfortable. The garments in the<br />
Kjus golf collection feature strong colours and<br />
sporty, timeless designs that have been thought<br />
out in every detail. Kjus ambassadors Max Kieffer<br />
and Caroline Martens have now been joined<br />
The Ladies Sugar Dress from Kjus.<br />
A sporty golf dress with functional features<br />
and a cool retro look.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 167
FASHION<br />
«I accept no<br />
compromises when<br />
it comes to clothing<br />
design and<br />
performance.»<br />
– Didier Cuche –<br />
by two-time Ryder Cup winner Peter Hanson.<br />
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong> chatted to the likeable Swedish golfer<br />
about clothing etiquette and his dream flight.<br />
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong>: How did you begin working with Lasse<br />
Kjus?<br />
PETER HANSON: I took a look at his collection last year.<br />
Then during the last PGA I got to know CEO Didi Serena,<br />
and we soon decided we’d like to work together. For me,<br />
it’s really exciting to work with a brand that is at the forefront<br />
of both performance and style.<br />
What’s most important - looking good, performance or<br />
comfort?<br />
Performance is very important! It’s all about staying dry,<br />
inside and out. In the USA we generally play in hot weather<br />
so of course we need breathable, light fabrics that keep us<br />
cool. But when we’re playing somewhere like Scotland we<br />
also need protection from the wind. And of course comfort<br />
is important, because when we’re playing golf we’re always<br />
changing position. When we’re putting we have to<br />
bend our knees, and it’s important we don’t feel restricted<br />
in any way. Kjus garments are really stretchy so they never<br />
hamper my swing.<br />
Which piece of clothing has to be the most functional?<br />
Trousers are the most important! It’s so important to have<br />
freedom of movement when you’re playing.<br />
Is there a colour that you would never wear on the<br />
course?<br />
Absolutely! But of course things are different in different<br />
parts of the world. For example, something that’s fashionable<br />
in Europe may take a while to catch on in the US.<br />
Do you agree that there should be a dress code in golf?<br />
A lot has changed over the last five to seven years. In the<br />
past, people didn’t really like wearing golf clothes when<br />
they weren’t on the course. But times have changed.<br />
What goal did you set yourself at the start of the<br />
season?<br />
My goal was to finish in the top 50. My position at the end<br />
of the season is vital if I’m going to be invited to play in the<br />
top tournaments. But so far I’m optimistic that I’ll hit my<br />
goal. For 2016 I’m focusing on the Olympic Games.<br />
What do you think is the main weakness in your game?<br />
It used to be putting, but now I have back problems, so<br />
the physical side is probably my main weakness at the<br />
moment.<br />
How did you start playing golf?<br />
To be honest, it’s because I wasn’t good enough to play<br />
tennis! I would have loved to be a tennis professional, but I<br />
just couldn’t cut it. But when I was 14 I discovered I had a<br />
talent for golf, so I switched sports.<br />
What is your dream flight?<br />
Stefan Edberg, Roger Federer and I love Formula One, so it<br />
would be a dream to have Michael Schuhmacher on the<br />
flight.<br />
168 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
The Men’s Sevve HZ half-zip windbreaker<br />
from Kjus has high-tech features yet<br />
fits easily into every golf bag.<br />
With their floral print, the Ladies<br />
Inu Bermudas will certainly<br />
stand out on the course.<br />
LADIES FIRST<br />
There’s a good reason why the principle of «ladies first» doesn’t apply on the tee. Just imagine –<br />
a woman is playing golf with a group of men. The men drive off and set off down the fairway,<br />
almost forgetting to wait at the ladies’ tee. Now the woman drives off and the men set off again as<br />
soon as she hits the ball. The woman watches the flight of her ball, picks up her tee and puts<br />
her club back in her bag. She follows on after the men. She normally hits the shortest drive, so she’s<br />
first once again. The men are already waiting near her ball, making her feel under pressure. So,<br />
gentlemen, please curb your impatience and be prepared to play golf with the ladies. It would be<br />
a shame if the only time they played golf was on Ladies’ Day.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 169
BEAUTY & BEAST<br />
NAOMI CAMPBELL<br />
She was one of the most sought-after models in<br />
the world, and at the age of 45 she still looks stunning.<br />
Naomi models two elegant designs from the<br />
«Made to Measure Atelier» Collection by Italian underwear<br />
label La Perla. Even when she was a<br />
young girl, Naomi knew she wanted to be famous.<br />
She dropped out of school and went to London to<br />
attend drama school. At the age of 15 she was<br />
spotted by Beth Boldt, the head of a famous modelling<br />
agency. Just one year later she was on the<br />
cover of the British «Elle» and went on to appear on the cover of all the world’s<br />
top fashion magazines. In 1988 she was the first black model to feature on<br />
the cover of British Vogue. On the catwalk, she has modelled for all the top<br />
designers and worked with world-famous photographers. She is well known<br />
for her extraordinary beauty, but also for being a diva who gets into catfights<br />
and even resorts to violence. But her beauty means that people tend to<br />
forgive her notorious tantrums. Men flock after her, and her many famous<br />
conquests include Mike Tyson, Robert DeNiro, Eric Clapton, U2 bassist Adam<br />
Clayton, Flavio Briatore, Tommy Lee and Usher. She had a long-standing<br />
friendship with Nelson Mandela.<br />
6<br />
QUOTES<br />
«If a woman wants to know what life is like<br />
without a man, she should get married.»<br />
«I love Britain, especially its food.»<br />
«There’s nothing better<br />
than a delicious<br />
bowl of pasta.»<br />
«I have no regrets. I’m healthy!»<br />
«I don’t believe that I was<br />
born beautiful. I was<br />
simply born myself.»<br />
«You have to make mistakes.<br />
That’s how you learn how<br />
the world works.»<br />
«I’ve earned a lot of money<br />
but I’m worth every penny.»<br />
170 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Candy<br />
COLOURS<br />
BY LAURA<br />
VI<br />
I DOLCE & GABBANA<br />
II PARMIGIANI<br />
III MULBERRY<br />
IV G<strong>EN</strong>IE IN A BAG<br />
V RADLEY<br />
VI GRAFF<br />
VII ROBERTO CAVALLI<br />
I<br />
VII<br />
V<br />
Light colours for dark days:<br />
if strong autumn colours are not for you,<br />
why not banish gloomy days<br />
by accessorising in pastel shades?<br />
This autumn, even classic black sunglasses<br />
are giving way to light blues and<br />
soft pinks to ease us gently into winter.<br />
II<br />
IV<br />
III
THE ECO-LUXURY CLASS<br />
BIO<br />
DE<br />
LUXE<br />
Batik pants, Birkenstocks and baking<br />
spelt bread under a full moon. In the past,<br />
natural cosmetics were considered to be<br />
only for tree-huggers and hippies who<br />
grew their own vegetables, long before<br />
the advent of «urban gardening». But now<br />
a new generation of high-end beauty<br />
products means that organic beauty has<br />
a touch of real luxury.<br />
Steffi Hidber<br />
The luxurious way of life | 173
BEAUTY<br />
SInterestingly, it is mainly young, dynamic businesswomen<br />
who have recognised the need to<br />
meet the growing demand for gentle, natural and<br />
green skincare and make-up products by creating<br />
quality niche brands. In the past, natural cosmetics<br />
may have been formulated very cleverly,<br />
but they just weren’t sexy. Now all this has changed with the rise of luxury<br />
organic brands. Of course natural cosmetics giants such as Weleda, Dr.<br />
Hauschka and Annemarie Börlind supply excellent, effective products for the<br />
skin and hair. But what about customers who are looking for effective ingredients<br />
and the shopping experience offered by major luxury brands? Such<br />
consumers are increasingly choosing organic foods, taking up yoga and<br />
meditation and drinking green smoothies in order to keep their bodies in Instagram<br />
shape.<br />
The solution<br />
With a little know-how and a good marketing team it’s possible to launch a<br />
luxury natural cosmetics brand. Young, dynamic brands such as Susanne<br />
Kaufmann, Lina Hanson and Kahina Giving Beauty show that spoilt<br />
consumers are keen to use expensive natural cosmetics. Harvard graduate<br />
174 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
BEAUTY<br />
As a beautician, Laura Schurter struggled with her own sensitive skin problems,<br />
but soon realised that her skin felt so much better when she used natural,<br />
organic skincare products. Now she is also delighted to see how demand is<br />
soaring and has set up her Greenlane portal to offer a range of new organic<br />
brands from around the world. She also sells beautiful cosmetic brands,<br />
including Kjaer Weis and Ilia, who are now finally providing real alternatives to<br />
the cosmetics giants, such as MAC and Lancôme.<br />
Skincare using precious plant extracts<br />
Tata Harper is a leading organic skincare brand. An engineer by training, Tata<br />
set up her eponymous label in 2011 because she simply couldn’t find what<br />
she was looking for elsewhere. «When I started looking for natural, non-toxic<br />
alternatives to the synthetic creams that I had been using for years, I realised<br />
there was a huge gap in the market. Clearly no-one was offering 100 % natural<br />
skincare products that were totally uncompromising in terms of their effectiveness,<br />
texture and scent. So I drummed up a group of experts from all over<br />
the world to create Tata Harper – based on the very latest research that<br />
promised real anti-aging results.»<br />
and young entrepreneur Anna Baumgartner<br />
picked up on the trend at an early stage when<br />
she opened her Biomazing online store. She<br />
clearly believes the future lies in luxury organic<br />
brands.<br />
«In terms of quality, it’s clear that luxury natural<br />
cosmetics are the best products on the market. It’s<br />
not possible to take rare, highly effective raw materials<br />
and ingredients and craft them into handmade<br />
products using industrial manufacturing<br />
processes, just as a Birkin Bag can never be<br />
mass-produced! Now that the effectiveness of luxury<br />
natural cosmetics has been proven, discerning<br />
customers are looking for – and finding – special,<br />
premium- quality ingredients and products that<br />
really work. For a time, it was difficult to get hold<br />
of high-end natural cosmetics. We wanted to<br />
change all that with Biomazing, and the demand<br />
has proven we were right.»<br />
In the luxury sector, Tata Harper is joined by a number of other interesting<br />
brands. They have already attracted many devoted followers - including many<br />
celebrities – from all over the world thanks to their quality range of effective<br />
skincare products. For example, make-up artist Lina Hanson counts many<br />
Hollywood stars among her clients, including Naomi Watts, Natalie Portman,<br />
Brooke Shields and Ewan McGregor. She knows only too well how demanding<br />
«pampered skin» can be. Many organic beauty retailers say her top-quality<br />
face and body serums are some of their most popular products. But her own<br />
favourite beauty product is not a luxury oil. It’s «simple» coconut oil. «I use<br />
coconut oil for everything. I add it to my green smoothies, use it for oil pulling<br />
(a cleansing ritual involving swishing oil around the mouth for 10 to 20 minutes),<br />
as a hair mask and make-up remover. It can be used in so many ways – you<br />
just have to make sure it’s certified organic and untreated.»<br />
Many of the new luxury natural cosmetics<br />
brands come from Europe:<br />
Susanne Kaufmann has built up her small-but-beautiful organic cosmetics<br />
empire from her hotel and spa in Austria’s Bregenz Forest, while in Switzerland<br />
four friends (and subsequently their children) have now been running<br />
Farfalla for 30 years, producing natural, organic beauty and skincare products.<br />
The UK and USA have produced some rather more media-savvy ’stars’<br />
who proclaim their green lifestyles through selected products and present<br />
themselves as icons of the new trend towards sustainability. May Lindstrom<br />
is not only a former model but also a young mother who has recorded the<br />
process of setting up her high-priced skincare products on Instagram, Facebook<br />
and her own blog. She describes the whole process from design<br />
through to sales, in this way building a personal relationship with her customers.<br />
Some people might think it’s just hype. But the ingredients used in these<br />
new luxury products have always been highly valued, and they are often<br />
gentler and more skin friendly than their high-tech clones.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 175
BEAUTY<br />
WEB TIPS<br />
www.biomazing.ch<br />
www.greenlane.ch<br />
www.shetime.ch<br />
www.allforeves.com<br />
www.beingcontent.com<br />
www.spiritbeautylounge.com<br />
www.niche-beauty.com<br />
Natural cosmetics with a luxury bonus<br />
Coconut oil is one of the shining stars of natural<br />
cosmetics, but there is also a whole range of new,<br />
precious plant oils with extraordinary properties<br />
that benefit the skin, such as marula oil from South<br />
Africa, baobab oil from Africa and camellia seed<br />
extract from Japan. For Christina Roth, an international<br />
make-up artist from Berlin, these precious<br />
ingredients lie at the heart of her UND GRETEL<br />
make-up line. Working with her colleague Stephanie<br />
Dettman, her small label has recently begun<br />
producing long-lasting cosmetics in strong colours,<br />
including mascaras, eye liners, eye shadows,<br />
lipsticks and beautiful foundations and powders.<br />
Every product has to meet their own high standards<br />
as make-up professionals. «We found natural<br />
cosmetics lacked that touch of luxury that brightens<br />
up our everyday lives. So with UND GRETEL<br />
we have brought together two contrasting elements<br />
– premium high fashion and certified natural<br />
cosmetics.»<br />
For businesswoman and model Kartika Luyet, it<br />
was this gap between what was wanted and what<br />
was available that drove her to set up her «ecotrendy»<br />
range of nail polish, Kure Bazaar. «We<br />
wanted to create a formula that was as natural as<br />
possible but without compromising on quality and<br />
durability. The polish had to be tough, long-lasting,<br />
fast-drying and very glossy … and of course it<br />
had to come in a range of great shades. In other<br />
words, it was quite a challenge» In the world of natural cosmetics, nail polish<br />
is the most difficult product to manufacture because durable nail polish<br />
generally needs hardening – and therefore toxic – ingredients. So Kure Bazaar<br />
went as far as possible, with the current formula containing 85 % natural ingredients.<br />
«This is the highest percentage we can use while still guaranteeing<br />
good results.»<br />
Kjaer Weis runs a leading luxury make-up brand of the same name. For her<br />
range, the very best ingredients are combined with environmentally friendly<br />
but beautiful packaging. Since launching her stunning make-up products<br />
(including «Radiance», a highlighter which has won many beauty awards), this<br />
native of Denmark has become one of the leading lights of the fashion scene,<br />
particularly because of her heavy metal compacts. The shiny, silver packaging<br />
give the product a very expensive feel, but the compacts are also very<br />
easy to refill. Her products are also totally free of ingredients such as phthalates,<br />
propylene glycol, parabens and mineral oils. She sums up her philosophy<br />
in a few words: «We have solved the problem of what’s «good» or «bad» for<br />
the skin by quite simply not using anything «bad».<br />
There are now so many wonderful natural beauty products for skin and hair,<br />
so it’s easy to cheat on your much-loved luxury brand just a little by trying out<br />
one of the new organic alternatives. You might even discover a completely<br />
new way of feeling good. And at worst you might find a gentler alternative with<br />
a feel-good factor. Isn’t that something we all deserve?<br />
A DISCOVERY FROM A TO Z<br />
Herbivore Botanicals<br />
Ilia<br />
John Masters Organics<br />
Kahina Giving Beauty<br />
Kjaer Weis<br />
Kure Bazar<br />
Lina Hanson<br />
May Lindstrom<br />
Rahua<br />
Richard Lüscher Britos<br />
RMS Beauty<br />
Spa Manufactur<br />
Susanne Kaufmann<br />
Tata Harper<br />
The Organic Pharmacy<br />
UND GRETEL<br />
Vestige Verdant<br />
176 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
BEAUTY<br />
LINA HANSON<br />
Global Face Serum, 30 ml<br />
VESTIGE VERDANT<br />
Bioactive Detox &<br />
Anti Aging Mask (200ml)<br />
ABSOLUTION<br />
La Crème du Soir, 30 ml<br />
KJAER WEIS<br />
Lip Tint in Dream State<br />
UND GRETEL<br />
«Lieth» Foundation (30ml),<br />
in five shades<br />
TATA HARPER<br />
Volumizing Lip and<br />
Cheek Tint<br />
INDIE LEE<br />
Swiss Apple Facial Serum, 30 ml<br />
The luxurious way of life | 177
BEAUTY<br />
S<strong>EN</strong>SES<br />
Get naked, smoky-style<br />
Have you ever bought a beauty product then found you<br />
have absolutely no idea how to use it? Naked Smoky<br />
is self-explanatory and very easy to use at home. Smoky<br />
eyes need more than just lots of smudgy black and a<br />
hard-as-nails attitude. Naked Smoky from Urban Decay<br />
has everything you need for the perfect look, from the<br />
right brushes to the perfect shades. And the XXL make-up<br />
mirror turns touching up your make-up into selfie time!<br />
www.urbandecay.com<br />
A sea of white roses<br />
Seven years ago a very special rose was born. Sensual and powdery. A gentle<br />
fragrance that was fresh and unusual, like a second skin. It was a huge success from<br />
day one. After Chloé Eau de Parfum, L’Eau de Chloé and Roses de Chloé, a fresh<br />
chapter is now starting with the launch of a new, delicate fragrance: Chloé Eau de Toilette.<br />
It echoes the distinctive beauty of its predecessors in all its facets. It’s all about roses,<br />
just like every other variation of the original perfume. But this time it is lighter and softer<br />
than ever before. From the very first notes, Chloé Eau de Toilette emanates a special<br />
kind of freshness.<br />
www.chloe.com<br />
A new legend is born<br />
Skin Caviar, the phenomenon from La Prairie, marches on with three fantastic<br />
new products. The iconic Skin Caviar Collection has now been rounded<br />
out with Skin Caviar Luxe Cream - Sheer, designed to meet women’s needs<br />
and desires for a choice of textures. La Prairie has also joined forces<br />
with Baccarat, artisans of fine crystal. The limited Edition Caviar Spectaculaire<br />
is a breathtaking masterpiece of legendary craftsmanship, timeless<br />
elegance and beauty.<br />
www.laprairiegroup.com<br />
178 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
BEAUTY<br />
Exquisite gin with a taste of the exotic<br />
BOMBAY SAPPHIRE®, the world’s leading premium gin, presents STAR OF BOMBAY,<br />
a new super premium gin. It highlights the extraordinary balance of BOMBAY SAPPHIRE<br />
thanks to the addition of exotic botanicals and a slow distillation process. STAR OF<br />
BOMBAY is based on the same ten hand-picked botanicals that are used in BOMBAY<br />
SAPPHIRE gin: juniper from Italy, coriander from Morocco, lemon zest from Spain,<br />
orris from Italy, angelica from Germany, bitter almond from Spain, licorice from China,<br />
Chinese cinnamon from Indochina, cubeb pepper from Java and grains of paradise<br />
from South Africa. These characteristic notes are lifted to a new dimension in STAR OF<br />
BOMBAY. Gently dried Bergamot orange peel from the mountains of Calabria,<br />
Southern Italy, provides a fragrant, rich citrus note; while the floral musk of ambrette<br />
seeds from the tropical yellow hibiscus flower from Ecuador supply a graceful<br />
elegance. Along with these new botanicals, the elegant liquid captured in each bottle<br />
is created by slowing down the signature BOMBAY SAPPHIRE Vapour Infusion<br />
process. This increases the level of oil extraction from the botanicals, building richer<br />
aromas and more intense flavours.<br />
www.bombaysapphire.com<br />
«Let us say what we feel and<br />
feel what we say. Let<br />
speech harmonise with life.»<br />
– Lucius Annaeus Seneca –<br />
My Grandmother Asked<br />
Me To Tell You She’s Sorry<br />
Fredrik Backman Authorised<br />
audio version<br />
Narrated by: Heiko Deutschmann<br />
Directed by: Doreen Maas<br />
Runtime: 9 hours, 7 minutes, 7 CDs<br />
Publishers: Argon Hörbuch Verlag<br />
If you liked Ove, you’ll love grandmother and Elsa!<br />
Grandmother is 77, a doctor, a little chaotic, and someone who drives the neighbours crazy.<br />
Elsa is 7, loves Wikipedia and superheroes and only has one friend in the world: grandma. Elsa has<br />
the most exciting adventures thanks to grandma’s fairy tales. Until one day grandma sends her<br />
off on the greatest adventure of her life - into the real world. «Promise you will still love me when you<br />
find out who I used to be. And promise you will look after the castle. And your friends», she says<br />
to Elsa. Fredrik Backman hit the top of the bestsellers list with his debut novel «A Man Called Ove».<br />
With his second novel, «My Grandmother Asked Me To Tell You She’s Sorry», Backmann once<br />
again shows off his virtuosity as a writer.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 179
I<br />
II<br />
AUTUMN<br />
PRETTY FOR<br />
BY LAURA<br />
Matt black and studs – a rock chick<br />
look witha very feminine touch.<br />
This autumn, Pretty Metal is the latest<br />
trend for beauty products. At its heart<br />
lies a really effective moisturiser to make<br />
III<br />
your skin glow on dreary autumn days.<br />
IV<br />
I HAIRDREAMS «STOP&GROW PHT ELIXIR» The new, powerful<br />
hair growth serum. II GUERLAIN «KISSKISS ROSELIP» Hydrating<br />
and plumping tinted lip balm with essential oil of rose. III GUERLAIN<br />
«NAILIFT LA BASE» Perfecting and protecting nail care. IV YVES<br />
SAINT LAUR<strong>EN</strong>T «COUTURE PALETTE COLLECTOR» The<br />
perfect embodiment of the Pretty Metal mood. V RETROUVÉ Revitalising<br />
Eye Concentrate. VI LANCASTER «365 SKIN REPAIR» 365 Skin<br />
Repair Serum protects the DNA and optimises skin function by setting it to «reboot».<br />
VII CHANEL «LE LIFT» Eye concen trate instant smoothing- anti-aging.<br />
VIII DIOR «EXUBÉRANTE» 5 shades For those mysterious, darker days<br />
when summer is over. IX EVID<strong>EN</strong>S «L’EAU PAR FUMÉE NO. 4» Soft<br />
top notes of bergamot and neroli are enhanced with a hint of<br />
blueberry, releasing the fragrance’s floral heart notes of narcissus,<br />
jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose. This soft, feminine fragrance<br />
also contains musk, frankincense, vanilla and cedarwood.<br />
X LANCÔME «HYDRA Z<strong>EN</strong>» Beauty Essence 24-hour,<br />
non-stop hydration to refresh the skin.<br />
X<br />
V<br />
VIII<br />
IX<br />
VII<br />
VI<br />
180 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
BEAUTY<br />
182 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
BEAUTY<br />
«A perfume is nothing without human skin.»<br />
Steffi Hidber<br />
HBehind this exciting perfume brand<br />
there is one man. Externally, his imposing<br />
presence makes him look more<br />
like a doorman or farmer. farmer. This will not have<br />
escaped the notice of his colleagues in the perfume<br />
industry, but this native of Russia and Dane<br />
by choice displays his more lyrical side in his passion<br />
for fragrances. In the eight years since he<br />
launched his own Zarkoperfume label, he has not<br />
only become the first Danish perfumer but also one<br />
of the world’s most exciting fragrance creators.<br />
He began his career at a French vineyard, before<br />
returning to Denmark and opening a fashion boutique<br />
in 2000 with a view to selling his own designs.<br />
He wanted to create a signature fragrance for his<br />
customers, something that would capture the «scent<br />
of the North». Ahlmann loves the North above all<br />
else, and he wanted his perfume to reflect the<br />
exciting contrasts offered by vast landscapes, total<br />
silence, forests and seas, the midsummer sun<br />
and the deep, dark night. He worked with several<br />
renowned perfume laboratories in Italy and France,<br />
but none of them came up with what he was looking<br />
for. So in 2008 he decided to realise a new dream.<br />
He sold his boutique and trained to be a perfumer.<br />
His career has been shaped by his passion for<br />
the perfumer’s art. His approach is to fuse classic<br />
French perfumery with stringent molecular<br />
science.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 183
BEAUTY<br />
Fragrances that are different<br />
on different people<br />
Zarkoperfume creations are not built on the traditional<br />
fragrance pyramid of top, middle and base<br />
notes which develop and disperse at different,<br />
rates. Instead they are based on minerals which,<br />
in combination with selected essential oils, develop<br />
their own fragrance only through fusion (skin<br />
contact!) with the pheromones of the wearer.<br />
To put it more scientifically, Zarko Ahlmann creates<br />
pure molecular fragrances with a unique scent.<br />
This means that the fragrance remains on the skin<br />
with the same intensity for several hours without<br />
changing. What’s exciting about that? The fragrance<br />
itself does not develop different facets, but<br />
it changes according to your skin temperature and<br />
environment. Unlike a traditional fragrance, this is<br />
not a straight-line development where you notice<br />
the top notes first, then the middle notes emerge<br />
after a while … and finally, after a whole day, only<br />
the base notes are left. Instead, these perfumes<br />
take you on an exciting journey. Because a Zarkoperfume<br />
can suddenly disappear, only to reappear<br />
a little later.<br />
This phenomenon is particularly pronounced in his most famous perfume,<br />
MOLéCULE 234°38, as this really does consist of just one big molecule. The<br />
connection between this molecule and the wearer’s skin lasts around ten<br />
hours before it dissipates. This is what makes the fragrance so unique and<br />
evolving. All these six fragrances have their own unmistakable signature and<br />
contain sophisticated ingredients and molecules that evolve in different ways<br />
in different people.<br />
It took Zarko six years to get his five fragrances ready for the market. Today<br />
he sells six creations in selected boutiques and concept stores around the<br />
globe. His five-person team also includes his wife and childhood sweetheart<br />
Lene. He is driven by his vision of making fragrance an individual experience.<br />
«A perfume is a work of art like a painting or a musical composition. It should<br />
be all about the fragrance, the essence, not about marketing or elaborate<br />
packaging rituals.» Ahlmann knows that developing and manufacturing a perfume<br />
is a life-long process. We can look forward to a future of exciting fragrances!<br />
The Zarkoperfume fragrances<br />
e’L - Zarko’s declaration of love to his wife Lene,<br />
with a warm, profound character and a fresh,<br />
tangy tone.<br />
INCEPTION – A homage to the dream<br />
sequences in Christopher Nolan’s film of the<br />
same name, with an incredible six phases<br />
that tell a complete story.<br />
MOLÉCULE 234°38 – Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov<br />
spent six years perfecting his masterpiece:<br />
«Your aura. Intensive like never before.»<br />
OUD’ISH – A highly sophisticated Nordic<br />
interpretation of the mysterious oud, presented<br />
in two parallel phases.<br />
PINK MOLéCULE 090°09 – Pink champagne<br />
and «Denmark’s dark forests» were the inspiration<br />
for this light, tangy scent of elder, with a hint of<br />
sandalwood to give it an edgy depth.<br />
MOLéCULE No. 8 – The latest Zarkoperfume<br />
creation promises «Light and dark. At the same<br />
time.» Or the scent of a Polar night, exuding<br />
a sense of strength and hope.<br />
184 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
VII<br />
VI<br />
HERE!<br />
Autumn’s<br />
I<br />
II<br />
We reveal the most seductive fragrances in the<br />
most beautiful bottles. Subtly delicious<br />
vanilla notes or lavishly floral, woody scents, all in<br />
contemporary, luxurious packaging.<br />
There really is something for everyone.<br />
BY LAURA<br />
I THIERRY MUGLER<br />
II ESTÉE LAUDER<br />
III THOMAS SABO<br />
IV BOTTEGA V<strong>EN</strong>ETA<br />
V APRIL AROMATICS<br />
VI HERMÈS<br />
VII MIU MIU<br />
V<br />
IV<br />
III<br />
The luxurious way of life | 185
THE QE<strong>EN</strong> OF COSMETICS<br />
HEL<strong>EN</strong>A RUBINSTEIN<br />
She was one of the world’s most successful cosmetics<br />
entrepreneurs. It all began with twelve little<br />
jars of cosmetics. When she was 18, she began<br />
studying medicine in Krakow and Zurich, but later<br />
dropped out. She emigrated to Queensland in<br />
Australia and worked as a nanny for her uncle. Her<br />
mother had given her twelve little jars of face<br />
cream so that she could look after her skin while<br />
she was far away. She gave some of them to the<br />
local ladies in Coleraine. Her first business idea<br />
was to import and sell the creams, but later she<br />
began making her own creams. In 1899 she<br />
opened Australia’s first beauty salon in Melbourne.<br />
Soon after, she decided to return to Europe. In<br />
Paris, she studied under the most famous skin<br />
doctor of the time, and also learned more about<br />
nutrition and facial surgery. After the outbreak of<br />
World War I in 1914, Helena Rubinstein moved to<br />
the USA. In 1915 she opened a beauty salon in<br />
New York and set up Helena Rubinstein Inc. In<br />
1920 she launched her own «Helena Rubinstein»<br />
brand. From then on, every tube and jar of beauty<br />
products bore her name. Although Helena Rubinstein<br />
liked to show off her wealth, she could<br />
also be very miserly towards others. She bought<br />
jewellery and artworks by the dozen, but always<br />
demanded a third off for buying in bulk. Her<br />
wardrobe largely consisted of garments that her<br />
maid had copied from Parisian haute couture. As<br />
a businesswoman, Helena Rubinstein was a<br />
pioneer. Designers and artists created luxurious<br />
flacons and packaging for her products. Writers<br />
produced advertisements, brochures and the inhouse<br />
magazine. Famous architects created exclusive<br />
beauty salons, which were truly «temples<br />
of beauty». So it is hardly surprising that after her<br />
death she left behind a cosmetics empire valued<br />
at 17.5 million US, with 100 branches in 14 countries<br />
and 30,000 em ployees. She also had a<br />
private fortune in excess of 100 million.<br />
5<br />
QUOTES<br />
«I have always felt that a woman<br />
has the right to treat the subject of her age with<br />
ambiguity, until, perhaps, she passes<br />
into the realm of over ninety. Then it is better<br />
she be candid with herself and with the world.»<br />
«Ideas, ideas, that’s what we need.»<br />
«There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.»<br />
«Although days only have 24 hours, I worked 50.»<br />
«Work has been my best beauty treatment.» «Hard work keeps the<br />
wrinkles out of the mind and spirit.»<br />
186 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…?<br />
… that a bottle of Chanel Nº 5 is sold<br />
every 30 seconds?<br />
Coco Chanel’s Nº 5 has been on the market since 1921 and is the most<br />
popular women’s fragrance of all time. French chemist and perfumer<br />
Ernest Beaux created the scent from more than 80 different ingredients<br />
that were stipulated by Coco. This timeless perfume is dominated by<br />
notes of jasmine, rose and lily of the valley. Even its minimalist, elegant bottle<br />
has attained cult status. Its design may be 94 years old, but it looks as<br />
fresh as ever. In 1959, MoMA (the Museum of Modern Art, New York City)<br />
honoured it with a place in its permanent collection, and Andy Warhol<br />
featured it in a series of prints in 1964. A bottle of Chanel Nº 5 is sold every<br />
30 seconds.<br />
… that mascara was invented by a man?<br />
The sister of chemist T. L. Williams burned her<br />
eyelashes and brows when she was cooking, so<br />
he decided to find a product that would help<br />
her. In 1913 he mixed together coal dust and Vaseline<br />
to create a jet black paste, creating the world’s<br />
first mascara. It was so successful that he went on<br />
to found Maybelline. The name Maybelline came<br />
from the name of his sister, Maybel, and Vaseline. The<br />
company has enjoyed huge success over the years,<br />
and its Volume Express mascara is the world’s<br />
most popular mascara. Polish make-up brand Helena<br />
Rubinstein also broke new ground in the world of<br />
mascara. In 1939 it developed the very first waterproof<br />
mascara, and 20 years later it launched the Mascara<br />
Matic, the first automatic mascara. This kind of<br />
mascara is still used today: a mixture of oils, waxes<br />
and pigments in a small tube with applicator brush.<br />
… that Nivea Creme is 105 years old?<br />
Originally a manufacturer of plasters, Nivea sold its first – and still its most popular – skin care<br />
product in 1911: white Nivea Creme in a blue tin. Pharmacist Oscar Troplowitz worked with<br />
dermatologists and chemists to create this classic product. He used lanolin, an emulsifier obtained<br />
from sheep wool, to make the cream particularly rich and long-lasting. The cream was named<br />
Nivea after its bright white colour. Nivea comes from the Latin word nivius, meaning «snow white».<br />
Its composition has changed little since then, though the packaging now looks a little different.<br />
For the first 13 years of its life, the cream came in a khaki-coloured patterned tin before the classic<br />
blue tin was introduced. The new colour was meant to reflect the changing attitudes of the<br />
1920s with its fresh, sporty look. In 2007 Nivea’s owners, the cosmetics group Beiersdorf, even<br />
went so far as to seek to patent the dark blue colour.
LIVING<br />
Foto: 8H Image by Jens Lindhe<br />
«For me,<br />
architecture is the<br />
means, not the end.<br />
It’s a means of making<br />
different life forms possible.»<br />
– Bjarke Ingels –
YES<br />
IS<br />
MORE!<br />
«Architecture seems to find itself in a quandary:<br />
either naively utopian or stultifyingly pragmatic.»<br />
Lone K. Halvorsen<br />
Bjarke Ingels Group / BIG
Photo: SOF Image by Luca Santiago Mora<br />
«I think architecture<br />
is rarely the product of<br />
a single ideology. It’s more<br />
like it can be shaped by<br />
a really big idea. It can<br />
accommodate a lot<br />
of life forms.» – Bjarke Ingels –<br />
Photo: SOF Image by Luca Santiago Mora<br />
The Maritime Museum of Denmark The<br />
building meets the strict conditions that were<br />
set: the museum is only 1 metre high, but<br />
descends 10 metres below ground.<br />
190 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
LIVING<br />
«Museet for Søfart», the Maritime Museum of Denmark<br />
in Helsingør am Øresund, Denmark.<br />
This may sound a little utopian but that’s how it<br />
should be, because Yes is more! The philosophical<br />
basis of the company is reflected in its abbreviation<br />
and provides scope for further interpretation. BIG<br />
means BIG thinking with BIG ideas from BIG thinkers<br />
who push the envelope and aim to create truly<br />
great architecture! And how to avoid architecture<br />
that is naively utopian or stultifyingly pragmatic?<br />
Ingels says: «A pragmatic utopian architecture<br />
aims to create spaces that are socially, economically<br />
and environmentally perfect.»<br />
BIG! No other abbreviation could have been<br />
more fitting for the Bjarke Ingels Group. Bjarke<br />
Ingels is young, bold and already internationally<br />
acclaimed at the age of 40. Since 2005 he has<br />
headed up the architects firm with the name of<br />
BIG – now with offices not only in Copenhagen but also in New York and<br />
Beijing. In 2001 he had already attracted international attention with his first<br />
company, PLOT, which he co-founded with Julian de Smedt. The two of them<br />
quickly gained the recognition they deserved, winning the Golden Lion in<br />
Venice in 2004 for the design of the concert hall in Stavanger, Norway. Despite<br />
their huge success they went their separate ways in 2005 and Bjarke Ingels<br />
founded BIG.<br />
Boldly Pragmatic with Visionary Tendencies<br />
With his bold ideas and extraordinary projects, Bjarke Ingels is one of today’s<br />
top young architects and BIG is undoubtedly a high-flying architectural firm.<br />
His Style: boldly pragmatic with visionary tendencies. His Philosophy: Yes is<br />
more! His objective: architecture that is flexible and innovative and adapts<br />
itself to current conditions. This creates spaces that function without compromise<br />
and respond to as many needs as possible.<br />
Urban Utopias<br />
He builds dwellings in the shape of a curved eight,<br />
apartment blocks in stone to look like mountain<br />
landscapes, and he even hides a waste-to-energy<br />
plant beneath a ski slope. Ingels himself says: «Architecture<br />
has always been governed by extremes:<br />
by an avant garde full of crazy ideas drawn from<br />
philosophy or mysticism and by highly organized<br />
consultancy firms, who construct predictable, boring<br />
boxes to a high standard.» BIG commits itself<br />
to the crazy ideas, but its unorthodox designs are<br />
not only zany but also sensational, functional and<br />
sustainable. The «Mountain Dwellings» is another<br />
of BIG’s crazy ideas. Dating from 2008, it is also<br />
one of their best-known projects. Indeed, it is a<br />
pretty bizarre project that turns out to be even<br />
more off-the-wall in real life. The experimental architects<br />
twisted the various stacked functional<br />
elements, constructing a building in which the independent<br />
living and parking components are<br />
connected symbiotically with one another. They<br />
built an artificial 34-metre-high mountain and, with<br />
a 1:3 ratio, the apartments function as the roof of<br />
the four-storey parking garage. The apartments<br />
were constructed in tandem in a stepped style, so<br />
the terraces were planted and laid out with a permanent<br />
irrigation system which serves the apartment<br />
above. It makes a mockery of the idea that<br />
parking garages are the grey places where murders<br />
are committed that we see in the movies.<br />
Here, they are bright and colourful and built using<br />
dozens of pillars – in some areas the ceiling soars<br />
to 16 metres, giving it a cathedral-like air. In Mountain<br />
Dwellings, the simple principles of lifting, lowering,<br />
turning and shifting have created a sensational<br />
building – you could even imagine moving<br />
into the parking garage.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 191
Foto: MTN, Carsten Kring<br />
Mountain Dwellings<br />
Not far from Copenhagen, in Helsingør on the river<br />
Øresund, we find Kronburg Castle, a World Heritage<br />
Site. This is where Shakespeare’s Hamlet lived<br />
and died. And located on a headland facing Sweden,<br />
it was also a major passageway between the<br />
Baltic Sea and the North. This was where Danish<br />
sailors left their country, perhaps never to return.<br />
So it is the perfect place for a maritime museum.<br />
But after a hundred years the Danish maritime museum,<br />
«Museet for Søfart» had to leave Kronburg<br />
Castle at UNESCO’s request. But there was one<br />
condition: the new building could be only one metre<br />
high, so as not to spoil the view of Kronburg<br />
Catle. As we have come to expect from BIG, the<br />
new building is stunning! This time the building<br />
was constructed quite differently: «Although it is<br />
below the surface, we have constructed the highest<br />
building we have ever designed for Denmark»,<br />
say Ingels. The condition was adhered to and there<br />
is still an unrestricted view of Hamlet’s stage. Below<br />
the turf they laid a 150 metre long, 25 metre<br />
wide, 10 metre deep cement dry dock (the pillars<br />
go down another 30 metres). With this, Bjarke Ingels<br />
became the king of the paradox, as his hallmarks<br />
had previously always been hills and mountains.<br />
He has managed to create a new, implosive<br />
architecture which no longer needs to explode<br />
above the earth. The tilted bridges and steep stairs<br />
make visitors feel like they are on the high seas –<br />
not a problem for a seafaring nation like the Danes.<br />
Big, bigger, Bjarke Ingels<br />
So who is the young Dane who is making his mark<br />
in the earth? Bjarke Ingels was born in Copenhagen<br />
in 1974 and in 1999 completed his studies at<br />
The Royal Danish Academy for Art and Architecture.<br />
«I knew absolutely nothing about architecture.<br />
The only architect I’d ever heard of was Jørgen<br />
Utzon. I really had no preconceived ideas»<br />
says Ingels. For a long time he dreamt about becoming<br />
a comic artist and he only applied to the<br />
Danish Academy because he thought his studies<br />
would involve a lot of drawing. His breakthrough<br />
came when he worked with the renowned architect<br />
Rem Koolhaas and set up his first company<br />
with Julian de Smedt. Considering that he originally<br />
wanted to be a comic artist rather than an<br />
architect, he has certainly had his share of success.<br />
FURTHER READING<br />
«Yes is More» is an easy-to-read, radical manifesto from Copenhagen-based<br />
architectural firm the Bjarke Ingels Group, or BIG for short. More like a<br />
comic than a typical architectural book, it communicates its unique agenda<br />
for contemporary architecture. The play on words, Yes is More, sums up<br />
the company’s philosophy, its lack of respect for excessive formalism and<br />
its determination to involve the masses. This monograph presents the<br />
company’s approach and results using that most appealing and popular<br />
form of communication: the comic.<br />
Yes is More. An Archicomic on the Evolution of Architecture<br />
Bjarke Ingels Group<br />
Pocket Publisher<br />
192 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
The frameless insulated sliding doors by Sky-Frame blend naturally into their surroundings.<br />
So it is hard to say where the living room ends and where the view starts: WWW.SKY-FRAME.CH<br />
INSIDE<br />
OUTSIDE<br />
LIVING.
LIVING<br />
ARCHITECTURAL<br />
OF THE HOTEL INDUSTRY<br />
Torches, flames and broken fragments – when seeking inspiration for new<br />
hotel buildings, architects do not limit themselves to classical structures.<br />
The more extraordinary the look of a new hotel, the more potential it has to<br />
become a new city landmark.<br />
Secret Escapes<br />
1 | Stationary ship: Titanic Beach Lara<br />
For anyone who is prone to seasickness but who<br />
would like to overnight on a cruise liner, the Titanic<br />
hotel chain has created the perfect solution. This<br />
hotel complex at Lara on the Turkish Riviera is in<br />
the shape of a giant cruise ship and goes by the<br />
fitting name of «Titanic Beach». Opened in 2003,<br />
the hotel’s 589 rooms are designed to look like<br />
cabins.<br />
1<br />
2 | Like a Gift Bow:<br />
Hotel Marques de Riscal<br />
An exquisite and unique exterior has been created<br />
by renowned architect Frank O. Gehry for the<br />
Marques de Riscal Hotel in the small wine village<br />
of Elciego in Rioja, northern Spain. Wave-shaped,<br />
brightly coloured steel plates tumble over each<br />
other to form the roof of the building. Unveiled in<br />
2006, the hotel has just 46 rooms. It offers its<br />
guests a fine selection of local wines and a Michelin-starred<br />
restaurant.<br />
3 | London: The Shard<br />
The Shard is the skyscraper that has dominated<br />
London’s skyline since 2014. This narrow, pointed<br />
glass tower is one of Europe’s tallest buildings at<br />
310 metres and with 72 floors. It is home to the<br />
five-star Shangri-La hotel, At the Shard, London.<br />
Each of its 202 rooms provides breathtaking views<br />
over the city and the very highest standards of<br />
comfort.<br />
Foto: www.ilkercanikligil.com<br />
2<br />
194 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Photo: Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard, London<br />
3<br />
LIVING<br />
Photo: AC Hotels by Marriott<br />
4<br />
5<br />
4 | In the Copenhagen skies:<br />
AC Hotel Bella Sky Copenhagen<br />
The two slender towers of the AC Hotel Bella Sky<br />
Copenhagen, which opened in 2011, look as if they<br />
have been twisted by the wind. Only the bridges<br />
between the two towers seem to be stopping them<br />
from crashing together. With its 812 spacious<br />
rooms and Nordic style, it is one of the largest<br />
hotels in Scandinavia. The literal highlight is the<br />
Sky Bar on the 23rd floor of the complex, with its<br />
sublime views over the city.<br />
5 | Flaming Towers at the Caspian Sea:<br />
Fairmont Baku<br />
Baku is in flames. Perhaps not literally, but anyone<br />
who looks at the skyline of Azerbaijan’s capital<br />
from a distance will see three towers rising like<br />
torches into the sky. This is an amazing sight,<br />
particularly when they are lit up at night. The<br />
architects, Francis Krahe and Associates, were<br />
inspired by Azerbaijan’s Persian name, «Land of<br />
Fire». The five-star Fairmont Baku Hotel is located<br />
in the Flame Towers.<br />
6 | A Ball for China:<br />
Sunrise Kempinski Hotel<br />
Many people think it looks like a marble that is rolling<br />
into the water. But in fact the Sunrise Kempinski<br />
Hotel, which opened in 2014 on Lake Yanki close<br />
to the Chinese capital of Beijing, was designed<br />
to symbolise the rising sun. The facade of the<br />
97- metre high ball has been assembled from<br />
10,000 pieces of glass. The topmost of its 306<br />
rooms and suites provide a glimpse of the Great<br />
Wall.<br />
Photo: Sunrise Kempinski Hotel, Beijing<br />
7 | Qatar’s Flaming Torch: The Torch Doha<br />
Like an over-sized Olympic torch, the 300-metre<br />
high Aspire Tower rises in the heart of Doha, the<br />
capital of Qatar. The highest building in the emirate,<br />
it was built for the Asian Games in 2006. Its distinctive<br />
appearance has led to it being nicknamed<br />
the «Torch». The Torch Doha is also the name of<br />
the five-star hotel that is located in the tower.<br />
6<br />
The luxurious way of life | 195
LIVING<br />
Photo: Aspire Zone<br />
7<br />
8 | Above the Racecourse:<br />
Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi<br />
Directly above the Formula 1 racecourse in Abu<br />
Dhabi, the Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi provides its<br />
guests with the most exclusive and impressive<br />
view of the action. The roof consists of 5,100 rhombic<br />
glass panels and steel connectors, which can<br />
be lit up in an array of colours. The luxury hotel was<br />
unveiled in 2009. It has 499 rooms and highlights<br />
include a ballroom and rooftop swimming pools. It<br />
is the work of the visionary architects at Asymptote<br />
Architecture.<br />
8<br />
Photo: Viceroy Hotel Group<br />
9 | The Leaning Tower of Abu Dhabi:<br />
Hyatt Capital Gate<br />
Leaning at almost 20 degrees, the Hyatt Capital<br />
Gate tower looks like a modern take on the Leaning<br />
Tower of Pisa as it climbs up into the skies<br />
above Abu Dhabi. Architects Robert Matthew<br />
Johnson Marshall were rewarded with an entry in<br />
the Guinness Book of Records. Opened in 2011,<br />
the hotel’s rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows,<br />
providing guests with spectacular views of the<br />
coastline.<br />
10 | Sailing Boat on the Coast of Dubai:<br />
Burj Al Arab<br />
One of the most world’s best known wonders of<br />
modern architecture is Dubai’s Burj Al Arab, which<br />
opened in 1999. On an artificial island, the building<br />
was designed by Tom Wright to look like a sail. The<br />
321-metre-high building has become Dubai’s landmark.<br />
One of the most expensive hotels in the<br />
world, the hotel offers its guests luxury suites, nine<br />
world-class restaurants and a private beach.<br />
Photo: Hyatt Hotels<br />
9<br />
10<br />
Photo: Jumeirah Group<br />
196 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
ICONIC HOTELS IN ICONIC PLACES<br />
Captured on iPhone<br />
FAR FROM THE<br />
MADDING CROWD<br />
A SWISH OF DOORS. AN AIR OF TRADITION.<br />
A GRAND PROM<strong>EN</strong>ADE. THE TINKLE OF TEACUPS.<br />
THE TALK OF THE TOWN.<br />
THE DORCHESTER.<br />
LONDON I +44 20 7629 8888 I DORCHESTERCOLLECTION.COM
JUBASSIN<br />
The classy design basin from natural stone and glass<br />
sets the stage for bathrooms. A timeless design for<br />
bathrooms and spas. Beautifully finished natural stone<br />
is combined with dramatic glass elements. The<br />
combination of heavy, top-quality natural elements<br />
with lightweight, modern materials give it a very<br />
distinct character.<br />
www.juma-exclusive.com<br />
Zoe & Noe<br />
(RED)<br />
Alessi supports the (RED) initiative to raise money<br />
for the fight against AIDS and increase society’s<br />
awareness of this issue. Alessi has<br />
created special editions of two of their<br />
iconic bestsellers: the «Anna G». and<br />
«Alessandro M.» corkscrews for<br />
(RED) the work of designer<br />
Alessandro Mendini.<br />
www.alessi.com/RED<br />
The word «Zoe» means «life»<br />
in Greek. It is no coincidence<br />
that the youthful lounge<br />
chairs from Italian furniture<br />
manufacturers, Verzelloni<br />
bear this name. With their soft<br />
seats that elegantly sweep<br />
into the flexible back support,<br />
they invite you to let go,<br />
relax and enjoy «Zoe» – life.<br />
Noe takes Zoe a step further<br />
by turning the lounge chair<br />
into a sofa. Noe still has Zoe’s<br />
generous, informal shape.<br />
www.verzelloni.it<br />
ERY<br />
The 142-year-old company, Dietiker, has launched ERY, a light but<br />
sturdy bench for indoors and out. This item is the work of the innovative<br />
Swiss designer Andreas Saxer. It was vital that the material used –<br />
in this case aluminium – would comply with the requirement that nonflammable<br />
materials must be used for escape routes in public places.<br />
www.dietiker.com<br />
198 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CU<br />
The CU curved wire chair is perfect for using indoors and out.<br />
The design has an Asian look, so it is no surprise to discover that<br />
its designer, Avinash Shende, is of Indian origin. There are many<br />
different wire chairs on the market. But the CU wire chair is made<br />
from a single piece with no screws, making it extremely stable.<br />
www.seleform.ch<br />
SHORT<br />
CUTS<br />
This season BoConcept is presenting a<br />
surprising new design collaboration.<br />
To produce the Monaco sofa, the traditional<br />
Danish company has for the first time<br />
collaborated with Dutch designer Frans<br />
Schrofer. Both parties share a love of<br />
urban, modern design – unconventional,<br />
but never forgetting the fundamentals<br />
of function, good looks and comfort.<br />
www.boconcept.com<br />
MONACO<br />
The luxurious way of life | 199
LIVING<br />
DESIGN<br />
CLASSICS<br />
The chair has long been a fixture in Copenhagen’s Art Museum and<br />
New York’s MoMA. Who would have guessed that an egg could make such<br />
an impact on the world of design?<br />
Lone K. Halvorsen<br />
«In my next life I’d like to be a gardener», Arne Jacobsen used to<br />
say. So it’s a blessing that he decided to dedicate his first life to<br />
beautiful objects. Whether an ant, a swan or an egg – Jacobsen<br />
knew how to combine aesthetics and functionality, and he worked tirelessly<br />
to make everything as aesthetically perfect as possible.<br />
When he received the contract for the SAS Royal Hotel in Copenhagen in<br />
1958, he designed an architectural gem that bore his signature in every detail,<br />
from top to bottom. At the time, Jacobsen did not receive the recognition he<br />
deserved for his work on the hotel. Quite the opposite in fact, as the hotel was<br />
voted the ugliest building in the city. Nevertheless, this «gem» went on to<br />
become a Danish icon of international style. The interior of the hotel revealed<br />
dozens of iconic designs, including the legendary Egg chair. Jacobsen said:<br />
«I am choking on aesthetics», but it was precisely this aesthetic sense that<br />
brought him the international fame that still lasts today.<br />
Jacobsen began by deciding to design a chair to go in the hotel lobby. This<br />
chair should provide a certain degree of privacy in a public space, while at<br />
the same time its shape should provide a contrast<br />
to the building’s vertical and horizontal lines. Der<br />
Prototyp entstand in Jacobsens Garage. where he<br />
made the first plaster moulds. At the time it was<br />
very avant garde to consider creating the seat,<br />
back and arm rests in a single piece. Finally a chair<br />
was produced that gave its occupant a sense of<br />
security and protection, as though they were nestling<br />
in a cocoon – or even better, like a chick, safe<br />
and sound inside the egg.<br />
Since its creation, the Egg has been produced by<br />
Republic of Fritz Hansen. At first it was a flop, but<br />
this sculptural piece of furniture made its breakthrough<br />
in the Seventies, and even made its Hollywood<br />
debut in «Men in Black». Whether Jacobsen<br />
would have been amused about this remains a<br />
secret – locked in the Egg.<br />
NAME<br />
Arne Jacobsen<br />
BORN & DIED<br />
*1902, † 1971 Kopenhagen<br />
APPR<strong>EN</strong>TICESHIP<br />
Apprenticeship: stone mason;<br />
ACADEMIC STUDIES<br />
architecture at the Royal Danish<br />
Art Academy Copenhagen<br />
200 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
LIVING<br />
«The right shape cannot be seen.<br />
It can only be felt. It is right<br />
when you sit in it.»<br />
– Arne Jacobsen –<br />
The luxurious way of life | 201
LIVING<br />
Hubert le Gall’s Pinocchio series<br />
goes perfectly with his credo:<br />
«Design is a lie».<br />
A game of shapes and colours. A confusing<br />
game! A sculpture or a piece of furniture?<br />
202 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
LIVING<br />
FURNITURE<br />
FROM<br />
WONDER<br />
LAND<br />
Hubert le Gall brings art into the living room – in the<br />
shape of furniture. The Frenchman uses a lot fantasy and<br />
humour to create functional art objects.<br />
Yvonne Beck<br />
Ruinart<br />
DOn his journey to becoming a successful<br />
artist and designer, the French<br />
sculptor Hubert le Gall decided against<br />
pursuing art studies and taught himself art. He<br />
seems to have done a good job of it because his<br />
playful, innovative furniture is popular. He became<br />
well-known because of his large sculptures<br />
that were inspired by the famous surrealists. He<br />
was successful in creating furniture from bronze,<br />
wood, metals and materials. His style: a playful<br />
elegance. An armchair with rabbit ears or a table<br />
with small magnetic balls – you have to look<br />
twice at Hubert le Gall’s creations: his designs<br />
create a sense of surprise in a living<br />
room and invite you to play.<br />
Through his work, the sculptor<br />
wishes to encourage people<br />
to reflect. Many museums<br />
have already bought his works<br />
and they can also be seen in the the dining room<br />
of the Mayor of Paris. <strong>PRESTIGE</strong> met with the<br />
artist at Art Basel, where he presented his «Glass<br />
Calendar», which he designed for the Champagne<br />
house Ruinart. We spoke with him about<br />
his adult version of «Alice in Wonderland» and<br />
glass blowers of Murano.<br />
Rabbit Chair<br />
The luxurious way of life | 203
LIVING<br />
<strong>PRESTIGE</strong>: Who are you and what do you do?<br />
HUBERT LE GALL: I am Hubert le Gall. I am a designer and<br />
I pursue my passion. I love my work and this is very important<br />
these days. Everything I make, I make with passion<br />
and I want each day of my life to be a special day.<br />
Are you more of an artist or a designer?<br />
I have often heard this question, but I am still not really sure<br />
how should I answer it. I am very sure that I am not a pure<br />
designer. I pursue more of a sculptural vision. I however<br />
dislike design that insists on always telling the truth. It’s a<br />
design that lies. A lamp, for instance, must also be able to<br />
cast really good light and not just look beautiful. A chair on<br />
which one cannot sit is absurd. Then it cannot call itself a<br />
chair, it’s a mere sculpture. That’s why I would say, yes, I<br />
am a designer because I do not create pure sculptures, but<br />
I am more of an artist. As an artist I am not inspired by<br />
everyday life, instead I am inspired from art itself – my<br />
wish is to remove art from its high pedestal and bring it<br />
closer to people.<br />
Where did you draw your inspiration from for this<br />
project?<br />
To find inspiration, I took many walks in the vineyards of<br />
Sillery in the hilly terrain of Reim – in the historical wine<br />
region of Ruinart. Pretty soon I was fascinated by the Chardonnay<br />
grapes, which take on various hues of colours in<br />
the course of the seasons: from the most different shades<br />
of green to radiant gold. Before long I had a vision of a<br />
colourful, joyful, vivid, lively work as a tribute to Champagne<br />
and its elegance in terms of colour, luminosity and<br />
fine bubbles.<br />
But instead of one sculpture, you have created<br />
twelve …<br />
The theme of my works is time – time of the year and<br />
working time. There is a time to make Champagne, a time<br />
to let it rest, it is always a question of time. I narrate<br />
stories, all my pieces of furniture narrate stories and I<br />
wanted to approach the project for Ruinart in the same<br />
It’s for the first time that you have started working with<br />
glass. Why did you decide to work with it this time<br />
round?<br />
I usually work a lot with bronze but also with plaster and<br />
wood. It was always my dream to work with glass. But one<br />
needs a lot of time to work with it and I have very little of<br />
that. That’s why I kept postponing to work with glass again<br />
and again. But two or three years ago, I visited an exhibition<br />
on Murano glass and I had the desire to spend someday<br />
three or four months in Murano, to meet the glass<br />
blowers and to learn from them. I wanted to understand<br />
this material. A little while later, Ruinart approached me<br />
and asked me whether I’d make a sculpture for them. And<br />
then it was clear for me: Ruinart – Champagne – glass. It<br />
was incredibly interesting and fascinating. I think, now, I<br />
will work more often with glass. With glass, I can show and<br />
express things, which previously eluded me. Glass is full of<br />
colour and shape and the silhouettes that arise out of it are<br />
just unique. In this case, it’s the transparency, the light<br />
refraction and the range of colour that makes the material<br />
perfectly reflect the Chardonnay.<br />
204 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
LIVING<br />
Champagne meets Art<br />
Since the 19th century, Ruinart, the oldest<br />
Champagne house, has enjoyed a close<br />
relationship with contemporary art. It all began<br />
when Ruinart commissioned Alfons Mucha,<br />
a well-known Czech illustrator, to create the first<br />
advertising poster. Since then, Ruinart has<br />
remained true to art, buying several works of<br />
young well-known artist and participating in<br />
important art fairs worldwide. Hubert le Gall<br />
has created a new limited edition for<br />
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. A tribute to the<br />
radiant brilliance of the Chardonnay,<br />
the grape of this cuvée.<br />
His work for Ruinart pays homage to time. The seasons<br />
and the ripening grapes.
LIVING<br />
manner. And now I have told the story of Champagne in<br />
twelve chapters/months, as each month has a new face<br />
and the people who work in the vineyard must carry out a<br />
different task each month. The twelve sculptures also reflect<br />
years of experience that go into making and refining<br />
Champagne. It is a tribute to the work of the winegrower,<br />
who checks the weather and vineyards daily, so as to respond<br />
to the smallest of changes and thus provide optimal<br />
conditions for the grapevines.<br />
How was it to work with the glass blowers in Murano?<br />
It was a bit like being in the army. One was not allowed to<br />
speak with the master during work. When I explained to<br />
them what I wanted, I was told: «We can make anything out<br />
of glass – anything!» And, I must say, they are really big<br />
artists in their profession. They are very confident in their<br />
abilities, but rightly so. This time the beauty of the works<br />
stems especially from imperfection, from its rawness, and<br />
its air bubbles.<br />
A lot of your works such as the Rabbit Chair looks like<br />
that it is taken from the book «Alice in Wonderland». Do<br />
you not wish to be an adult?<br />
I love to play. I want to connect all senses. My furniture<br />
should surprise people. One can play with my furniture,<br />
touch it and it can even change many people. I also love the<br />
confusion and discussions that surround my pieces «Is it a<br />
sculpture? Is it art? Is it design? Is it furniture?»<br />
Which book do you have on your night table?<br />
An auction catalogue.<br />
Your favourite designer?<br />
How far back does the word designer go? Is a craftsman<br />
who lived and worked during the golden age of Pompeii a<br />
designer? He, in any case, combines all the characteristics<br />
that I appreciate in decorative art. The knowledge of a<br />
unique quality and a great deal of imagination. If the term<br />
designer refers only to my contemporaries, then Ettore<br />
Sottsass is certainly one of the designers who interests<br />
me.<br />
And your favourite artist?<br />
Impossible to choose just one. I never miss an opportunity<br />
to visit the Water Lily Room at the Musée de l’Orangerie. I<br />
consider it to be one of the most beautiful works worldwide.<br />
It is music for the eyes. The basis for the modern art.<br />
In three words: art is for you …?<br />
Art is a must.<br />
And what is design for you?<br />
Design is a good lie!<br />
What is your favourite virtue?<br />
In an artist: honesty … even if it’s a flaw.<br />
What is absolute an luxury for you?<br />
Silence. It’s becoming rarer. I do not like people or things<br />
that are continuously loud; I try to avoid them.<br />
Hubert de Gall at a Murano glassblowers.<br />
Your worst and the best quality?<br />
People say I am too fast, too impulsive, too impatient. I am<br />
an unmitigated optimist. I rarely look back at my past. I<br />
erase things from my memory, I just carry on, I forget, I<br />
forgive.<br />
206 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
Le Gall: an artist whose works tell stories.
SHORT<br />
CUTSCOPPA<br />
Classic and timelessly beautiful, the candlestick holders from De<br />
Giorgio allow candles to burn with a pure elegance!. The Coppa and<br />
Trave 6 candleholders combine opulence and colour for glamorous,<br />
candlelit moments. In a complex process, the metal is burnished and<br />
polished before being chromed, silver-plated or plated with 24-carat<br />
or 18-carat gold.<br />
www.degiorgiogalleria.ch<br />
TEATIME<br />
Teatime is a distinctive lamp and side table all in one. Thanks<br />
to its leather covered wire handle, Teatime also evolves<br />
into a mobile light source to accompany you when darkness<br />
falls. With its beautiful, fine details, Teatime is a<br />
functional piece of art.<br />
www.bielefelder-werkstaetten.de<br />
SPOKES<br />
Spokes is the new pendulum light by Foscarini. Its name comes from its<br />
resemblance to the spokes of a wheel and its shape is reminiscent of bird<br />
cages and antique oriental lamps. Its soft, light shape makes it appear<br />
almost weightless. The lamp’s design is enhanced with solid metal rods and<br />
practical LED lights, which provide direct lighting while still creating a<br />
magical play of light and shadow.<br />
www.foscarini.com<br />
CUNA<br />
Patricia Urquiola from Agape has used her expert knowledge of fabrics and<br />
production processes to create this new design, the Cuna bathtub. Deep-drawn<br />
from the Solid Surface® mineral compound, the curves of this small, compact<br />
tub are reminiscent of a crib. This association is enhanced by the surrounding<br />
steel tubes, giving it its name, Cuna (crib).<br />
www.agapedesign.it<br />
The luxurious way of life | 207
WESTERN ART MEETS<br />
JAPANESE TRADITION<br />
ISAMU NOGUCHI<br />
Isamu Noguchi, the son of the Japanese poet,<br />
Yone Noguchi, and the American author, Leonie<br />
Gilmour, was born in Los Angeles in 1904. He<br />
studied at Columbia University and at the Leonardo<br />
da Vinci Art School. He went on to set up his own<br />
art studio and in 1927 was awarded a Guggenheim<br />
scholarship. He then became the assistant to<br />
Constantin Brancusi in Paris and held his first<br />
exhibition in New York. He studied the art of brush<br />
painting in China and worked in clay under Jinmatsu<br />
Uno in Japan. His experience of living and<br />
working in different cultures is mirrored in his creative<br />
activities. Isamu Noguchi is a real all-rounder,<br />
creating sculptures, stage sets, furniture and<br />
lamps and also designing interiors, public spaces<br />
and gardens. His sculptural style is bound up with<br />
an organic language of shapes and had a lasting impact on design in the<br />
1950s. Noguchi believed his best piece of furniture design was his coffee<br />
table, probably because it closely resembled the bronze and marble sculptures<br />
that he was working on at that time. He directly translated their biomorphic<br />
shapes into a sculptural piece of furniture. The coffee table’s heavy<br />
glass plate rests on two identical wooden elements at right angles to each<br />
other.<br />
American-Japanese artist, Isamu Noguchi has produced some extremely<br />
complex designs. His dining table is one of the 20th century’s most elegant<br />
designs. With its round cast-iron pedestal and base frame made of chromeplated<br />
rods, it is very sturdy without ever looking heavy. From 1951 onwards<br />
Noguchi designed his Akari light sculptures – over 100 handmade table, standard<br />
and ceiling lamps made from Shoji paper. He chose to call them «akari», a<br />
Japanese word meaning brightness and light, and which also conveys a sense<br />
of ease and lightness. Isamu Noguchi died in New York in 1988.<br />
4<br />
QUOTES<br />
«Weight gives meaning<br />
to weightlessness.»<br />
«We are the landscape of<br />
everything that we have seen.»<br />
«My father, Yone Noguchi,<br />
is Japanese and his poetry<br />
has long been known as the<br />
translation of the East for the<br />
West. I would like to achieve<br />
the same with sculpture.»<br />
– Noguchi’s application for the<br />
Guggenheim scholarship.–<br />
«The light of an Akari shines like the light of<br />
the sun, when it is filtered through Shoji paper.<br />
The magic of the paper transforms the cool<br />
electricity back into the eternal light of<br />
the sun so that its warmth can fill<br />
our rooms at night too.»<br />
208 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
Tradition meets Innovation<br />
Zbären Kreativküchen AG<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 26 . CH-3777 Saanenmöser . Telephone +41 33 744 33 77<br />
design@zbaeren.ch . www.zbaeren.ch<br />
Suter Global Communication<br />
New: Showroom Bern, Gerechtigkeitsgasse 29, CH-3011 Bern, Telephone +41 031 311 18 80<br />
Official Dealer<br />
Saanenmöser . Gstaad . Lenk . Bern<br />
Official Dealer
Photo: Nico Schärer<br />
THE<br />
OF LAKE LUCERNE<br />
Nenad Mlinarevic joins the world’s<br />
elite chefs with «focus».<br />
Dr. Thomas Hauer<br />
Photo: Beat Brechbühl
Photo: Nico Schärer<br />
CULINARIUM
Photo: Beat Brechbühl<br />
Nenad Mlinarevic<br />
Making comparisons is always<br />
difficult. Particularly<br />
when we’re talking about a<br />
chef’s particular style. But in<br />
fact the stylistic contrasts that define today’s topflight<br />
cuisine have changed little since the days of<br />
Carême and Escoffier. Generally, they are still<br />
closely linked to the names of a few star chefs.<br />
Switzerland is no exception, despite the fact that it<br />
only has a few top chefs. Indeed, while Andreas<br />
Caminada has for many years been the undisputed<br />
creative force behind Switzerland’s culinary<br />
avant-garde, it is Benoît Violier with his passion for<br />
the best and finest produce who is the current king<br />
of classic haute cuisine. Just about every Michelin-starred<br />
chef in Switzerland falls roughly into one<br />
of these two schools.<br />
212 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULINARIUM<br />
decorative. He is always seeking out new ideas<br />
and trying to evolve.<br />
Photo: Nico Schärer<br />
Mlinarevic hails from Zurich but has Serbian roots,<br />
which he honours in «focus», his fine dining restaurant<br />
on the banks of Lake Lucerne. His cuisine<br />
is indubitably one of the most modern and innovative<br />
to be found anywhere in Europe today. It<br />
was not for nothing that Mlinarevic spent two years<br />
as Caminada’s sous-chef, and he has twice<br />
worked with Joachim Wissler as a guest chef. But<br />
he also has the most profound respect for ingredients,<br />
something he particularly learned from the leading<br />
lights of New Nordic Cuisine around René Redzepis.<br />
Mlinarevic worked with the latter at Noma, his acclaimed<br />
restaurant in Copenhagen. His creations also display glimmers<br />
of classic haute cuisine, which the 34 -year-old chef learned under<br />
Claus-Peter Lumpp at Restaurant «Bareiss» and «Tantris» in Munich.<br />
Despite these influences, Mlinarevic’s dishes are characterised by their<br />
captivating simplicity, as is the case with other exceptional chefs such as<br />
Thomas Keller or Alain Ducasse. At the same time, his creations are easy to<br />
understand and quite simply fun!<br />
But only just.<br />
In Nenad Mlinarevic, a man has entered the international<br />
culinary stage and joined the ranks of the<br />
very best in a few short years. Perhaps this is<br />
be cause he has consistently refused to be pigeonholed<br />
in this way. With a right arm covered<br />
in tattoos of vegetables, dressed in skinny jeans<br />
and a T-shirt, Mlinarevic certainly smashes the<br />
usual stereotypes. His tough exterior conceals a<br />
razor- sharp mind, boundless creativity and a high<br />
degree of sensitivity. Although he is relaxed<br />
during our interview, he is also extremely focused.<br />
He is not one for inconsequential chit-chat. Aided<br />
by his team of three under Sous-Chef Pascal<br />
Steffen, he serves up to 35 guests five evenings<br />
a week. Behind the heavy chef’s table there are<br />
rows of cookbooks that are clearly more than just<br />
Photo: Beat Brechbühl<br />
Ideas from nature<br />
Many of his colleagues seem to be obsessed with luxury products or like to<br />
laboriously deconstruct their ingredients until they are practically unrecognisable.<br />
They then employ a whole battery of texturisers to glue them back<br />
together and create alginate spheres, solid foams or gaudy dollops of gel.<br />
Meanwhile, Mlinarevic is simply following his own path. This is why many<br />
young chefs are finding their way to Vitznau to learn from him and hone their<br />
skills. Mlinarevic draws his main inspiration from nature, the natural rhythm of<br />
the seasons. The aromatic and intellectual value of his creations is a result of<br />
his careful selection of ingredients that are rarely used in traditional haute<br />
cuisine. Common ingredients such as radish, beetroot, kohlrabi and cabbage<br />
are found alongside more unusual items, such as canola, beeswax and wheat<br />
grass. Every day the chef and his team gather fresh wild herbs and flowers<br />
from the slopes of Mount Rigi.<br />
Mlinarevic likes to use traditional techniques, so his menu often includes<br />
foods that have been fermented, smoked or preserved in some way. They are<br />
served up in a wide variety of ways, but the essential ingredients are always<br />
clearly recognisable. This is an approach that is far removed from the culinary<br />
mainstream, which clings on to the safe trio of soft, sweet and pleasant.<br />
Mlinarevic is not afraid to play with sour, salty and spicy flavours. His ninecourse<br />
degustation menu allows guests to select what they want, taking them<br />
on a journey into unknown – and hence all the more exciting – worlds of<br />
flavour. In early <strong>2015</strong> Mlinarevic was the first prominent chef in Switzerland to<br />
decide to take things a stage further and ban all international luxury products<br />
from his menu. This means that in future he will only use seasonal Swiss<br />
products. Most of them come from the 80-kilometre radius around Vitznau.<br />
The most exotic things are often to be found on your own doorstep.<br />
Every course on the menu comes with details of the origin of the main<br />
The luxurious way of life | 213
CULINARIUM<br />
ingredients and those that provide the key flavours. So guests learn that the<br />
raw marinated whitefish with nasturtiums and camelina vinaigrette comes<br />
from Lake Maggiore; that the saffron in the smoked goat’s ricotta with braised<br />
artichokes comes from Althäusern; and that the juicy suckling pig with caramelised<br />
cauliflower is from Muotathal.<br />
Turnips, haute cuisine style<br />
Some critics like to suggest that this radical departure from mainstream haute<br />
cuisine is an attempt to copy restaurants like Noma or to jump on the farmto-table<br />
bandwagon. But Mlinarevic has other ideas. For him, this reorientation<br />
is simply the logical next step for his cooking. He believes any halfway talented<br />
chef can create a passable dish from lobster and langoustines, but it takes<br />
real creativity, going far beyond cheap effects, to turn turnips and potatoes<br />
into haute cuisine. Of course it involves some risks. At first glance, it seems<br />
that Mlinarevic runs the risk of alienating fans of foie gras and other luxury<br />
foods. After all, they make up the majority of lovers of fine cuisine in a conservative<br />
country like Switzerland. But the Swiss are also patriotic in culinary<br />
terms, and perhaps they really do prefer to see<br />
locally grown produce on their plates. A more serious<br />
threat is the fact that inspectors for restaurant<br />
guides tend to view radical tendencies with<br />
suspicion, preferring evolution to revolution. It is<br />
true that the Michelin Guide awarded «focus» two<br />
stars in the year it opened, but at that time it was<br />
for a cuisine that concentrated more on traditional<br />
products. But Nenad Mlinarevic doesn’t worry<br />
about this. Indeed, he just does his thing, without<br />
trying to earn stars and points. And perhaps the<br />
key to his success lies in the fact that his cooking<br />
appeals equally to the heart, the taste buds and<br />
the intellect.<br />
Setting new standards in presentation<br />
At first his creations look almost as if they have<br />
been thrown together. But they have been thought<br />
through in the minutest detail – though paradoxically<br />
this isn’t always totally clear, even to Mlinarevic.<br />
An important part of the presentation is the<br />
carefully selected tableware. During the meal,<br />
Mlinarevic switches between bright white porcelain<br />
from Hering Berlin, providing a bewitching<br />
contrast between glazed and unglazed surfaces,<br />
and simple plates and bowls that reflect Japanese<br />
minimalism with their mix of bright and subdued<br />
colours. It’s as if every dish is telling a little story.<br />
This dialogue of content and form, nature and culture,<br />
is continued in the restaurant decor. Modern,<br />
almost sculptural furniture that has been stripped<br />
back to essentials, a few carefully chosen table<br />
accessories, warm colours and beautiful natural<br />
materials create an almost meditative atmosphere.<br />
Water also has its part to play in this work of art.<br />
Diners can look across Lake Lucerne and admire<br />
the majestic mountains on its far shores.<br />
Photo: Beat Brechbühl<br />
Photo: Beat Brechbühl<br />
214 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
CULINARIUM<br />
PURE PLEASURE<br />
SAFFRON<br />
THE RED GOLD<br />
Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world. Its crimson threads give<br />
dishes a unique flavour and for centuries have been used as a dye<br />
and as a treatment for various ailments.<br />
Annabel Roten<br />
Every autumn, fields in the Middle East and Mediterranean<br />
region are transformed into seas of purple. This<br />
is when the crocus sativus come into flower, whose<br />
buds yield the coveted saffron. The majority of saffron<br />
fields are in Iran, which grows 91 percent of<br />
the world’s saffron. It is also grown in Spain,<br />
Greece, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. Each<br />
crocus flower contains three stigmas, which<br />
look like thin red threads. They are laboriously<br />
separated by hand from the rest of the<br />
plant, which is not used because it has no<br />
aroma. It then takes many hours to dry the<br />
threads before they can be used.<br />
At up to 10 Swiss francs per gram, saffron<br />
certainly deserves its name «red gold». But<br />
why is it so expensive? Around two tonnes<br />
of saffron are grown worldwide each year.<br />
The production costs are very high. One<br />
flower produces just three saffron threads,<br />
but it needs a relatively large area to grow. It<br />
takes over 100,000 flowers and 1,000<br />
square metres to produce one kilogram of saffron. The harvest<br />
period is only two months long, and the saffron has to be picked<br />
by hand. These high prices make it tempting to produce fake<br />
saffron. This is done by pulverising pure saffron and diluting it<br />
with other spices such as turmeric.<br />
«What do farmers<br />
know about saffron?»<br />
– Old saying –<br />
«Saffron is as arrogant<br />
as a beautiful woman –<br />
it demands attention<br />
from the moment the sun<br />
comes up.»<br />
– Old saying –<br />
Real saffron gives dishes an intense, bitter, hay-like flavour and<br />
a golden colour. It contains crocin, a natural pigment mainly<br />
found in varieties of crocus and gardenia, so it is also used as a<br />
yellow dye.<br />
The name saffron comes from the Arab<br />
word za’fran, meaning «be yellow». Yellow is<br />
the holy colour of rulers and elites, a symbol<br />
of happiness and is also associated with<br />
gold. According to mythology, Zeus slept<br />
on a bed of saffron, and the Romans<br />
strewed saffron threads on their marriage<br />
beds. The Roman saying «dormivit in sacco<br />
croci» (he has slept in a bed of saffron)<br />
means that someone is feeling cheerful and<br />
full of life. And they were onto something, as<br />
saffron seems to have a positive effect when<br />
we are feeling down. It contains carotenoids<br />
and essential oils, which have anti-inflammatory<br />
properties and aid digestion. It also<br />
stimulates oxygen intake and lowers blood<br />
pressure.<br />
Saffron really is worth its weight in gold. It is a true all-rounder<br />
that acts as a dye, adds flavour to our food, lifts our spirits and<br />
improves our health.<br />
The luxurious way of life | 215
«The cocktail<br />
shaker is an instrument<br />
of virtuosos, who<br />
show off their art in the<br />
poetry of the drink.»<br />
– Hans Krönlein –
CULINARIUM<br />
VIRTUOSOS<br />
BEHIND THE<br />
BAR<br />
The golden era of the cocktail is inextricably linked with<br />
the names Jerry Thomas and Ada Coleman. The<br />
drinks they invented, such as the Blue Blazer and the<br />
Hanky Panky, are still classics today.<br />
Anka Refghi<br />
The invention of the cocktail was a result of the<br />
terrible state of American whiskey in the 18th<br />
century, when it was often only rendered drinkable<br />
by adding honey, sugar or fruit. The quality<br />
of spirits began to improve in the USA at the beginning<br />
of the 19th century, thanks to the expertise<br />
that arrived with European immigrants. So people<br />
started to call these mixed alcoholic drinks<br />
«cocktails».<br />
The maestro<br />
The father of American mixology was Jerry<br />
Thomas. From being a sailor and gold prospector,<br />
he went on to become the most famous bartender<br />
of all time. No-one could mix a cocktail like him,<br />
and his showmanship, which included juggling<br />
bottles, glasses and ingredients, was legendary. In<br />
1862 he published a book, «How To Mix Drinks, or<br />
the Bon Vivant’s Companion». Today, this is still<br />
the bartender’s bible. Thomas travelled far and<br />
wide, teaching saloon owners the art of mixing<br />
cocktails, and he even came to Europe to work in<br />
the very best bars of the time. He was quite clearly<br />
a star. It is said that he earned 100 dollars a week<br />
at the Occidental Hotel in San Francisco, more<br />
than the US Vice-President of the time. He is said<br />
to have invented the Blue Blazer in the El Dorado,<br />
a gambling saloon in San Francisco. Its preparation<br />
involved setting whiskey alight and passing it back<br />
and forth between two glasses in spectacular<br />
Jerry Thomas<br />
The luxurious way of life | 217
CULINARIUM<br />
The world’s first barmaid:<br />
Ada «Coley» Colemann.<br />
The original bars<br />
fashion. In 1869 he opened his own bar on Broadway,<br />
but he had to sell it after making losses on the<br />
stock exchange in the 1880s. Upon his sudden<br />
death at the age of 55 in 1885, newspapers across<br />
America published obituaries in his honour.<br />
Tailor-made treats<br />
In England, Ada «Coley» Coleman, the world’s first<br />
barmaid, caused quite a furore. Her father, who<br />
was once the steward of the golf club owned by<br />
the influential Rupert D’Oyly Carte, died when Ada<br />
was 24 . To help her survive, in 1899 D’Oyly Carte<br />
offered her a job behind the bar of his hotel,<br />
Claridge’s in London’s Mayfair. She was soon<br />
conjuring up wonderful drinks for her guests. In<br />
1903 she moved to the Savoy Hotel, where she<br />
gained international renown as Head Bartender at<br />
the American Bar. Ada mixed cocktails for Mark<br />
Twain, Charlie Chaplin, Marlene Dietrich and the<br />
Prince of Wales. Her bar was also a regular haunt<br />
Settlers in America originally sold their food and<br />
alcohol in drug stores. But the consumption of alcohol<br />
led to fights and shootings, so alcohol sales were<br />
separated from the food. Saloons began to spring<br />
up around 1800, where the owners protected<br />
themselves and their wares with a wooden barrier,<br />
which became shortened to «bar», meaning just<br />
the counter. It was only later that «bar» also came to<br />
mean the whole establishment.<br />
of theatrical agent and actor Sir Charles Hawtrey,<br />
for whom she created a bitter cocktail consisting<br />
of gin, Italian Vermouth and Fernet Branca. When<br />
Hawtrey tasted the cocktail for the first time, he<br />
supposedly said: «By Jove! That is the real hanky<br />
panky!» – and a legendary cocktail classic was<br />
born. Ada Coleman worked at the Savoy until<br />
1924, when she took a well-earned retirement.<br />
218 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
New Nicaragua Mini Cigarillos<br />
Inspired by Zino Davidoff’s pioneering spirit, Davidoff Cigars went on a quest for a new type of blend<br />
to tempt aficionados who are seeking more intense and flavourful experiences. The Davidoff<br />
Master Blenders found it in Nicaragua, in the fiery, fertile volcanic earth of Esteli, Condega, Jalapa<br />
and Ometepe. The very finest leaves from these Nicaraguan soils have been mixed to create a<br />
blend for mini cigarillos that has the perfect balance of sweet and sour. Expertly mixed in<br />
the Dominican Republic, the blend has all the sophistication and subtlety that is the hallmark of<br />
Davidoff cigars.<br />
www.davidoff.com<br />
Amazing cocktails – at home<br />
Drink-Syndikat takes cocktail lovers on a journey into a world of wonderful drinks. Now it’s easy to enjoy<br />
fabulous cocktails at home. Sip a classic creation from the Roaring Twenties or sample imaginative concoctions<br />
from the very best bars in the world: timeless drinks with an unusual twist. Every month, Drink-Syndikat puts<br />
together a set of hand-picked spirits from small distillers and other carefully selected ingredients to make six drinks.<br />
It is accompanied by a booklet containing two recipes and instructions on how to make classic cocktails and<br />
modern variations. Over recent years, the amazing bar and cocktail culture of the «Belle Époque» has seen<br />
a remarkable revival. And now you can enjoy it in the comfort of your own home.<br />
www.drink-syndikat.de<br />
P.E.P. © for optimum espresso flavour<br />
A cool, upmarket cafe or typical coffee shop, a lake view, the soft sounds of a street musician.<br />
The sun on your face and the scent of flowers in your nostrils. What more do you need? Of<br />
course, a really good espresso - freshly prepared by an expert barista who knows just how you<br />
like it. Don’t we all long for that? Now the new Z6 automatic coffee machine from JURA makes<br />
this dream come true, any time and in your own home. The machine’s unique technology optimises<br />
extraction time and intensifies the flavours. Now coffee at home tastes as good as coffee in<br />
the very best coffee shops. With the new Z6, you can prepare every kind of speciality coffee at<br />
the touch of a button. During the brewing process, the water is pressed through the finely<br />
ground coffee beans at precise intervals. This gives the flavour much longer to develop, bringing<br />
out the very best from the fresh beans. Jura’s revolutionary Pulse Extraction Process (P.E.P. © )<br />
produces perfect, full-bodied ristrettos and espressos.<br />
www.jura.com<br />
The luxurious way of life | 219
CULINARIUM<br />
PROFESSIONAL BART<strong>EN</strong>DERS TELL US<br />
THEIR FAVOURITE DRINKS FOR <strong>2015</strong><br />
BITTER<br />
FRUITY<br />
OR<br />
Gin with berries and basil: drinks made from juniper<br />
schnapps, Vermouth and fruit are enjoying huge popularity.<br />
The German’s tend to prefer bitter flavours, while the<br />
Austrians like their drinks fruity. In Switzerland most people<br />
prefer a mixture of the two flavours.<br />
Secret Escapes<br />
1 | A touch of class and refinement<br />
in Geneva<br />
In the elegant Leopard Bar of the Hotel d’Angleterre,<br />
a Secret Escapes partner hotel on the shores<br />
of Lake Geneva, guests can relax with live music<br />
and enjoy a special version of the classic Bellini<br />
cocktail made from Prosecco and peach puree.<br />
Head barman Fabio Dotolo only uses fresh white<br />
peaches from the local region – syrups and concentrates<br />
are banned from his creation. The drink<br />
is then finished off with champagne to create the<br />
perfect after-work drink for a warm summer’s<br />
evening.<br />
2 | A healthy mixture, high up in the Alps<br />
With its comfy armchairs and dignified atmosphere,<br />
the Altitude Bar at the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz<br />
is the perfect place to relax after a day in the<br />
mountains. Head barman Alberto Re recommends<br />
his guests try a refreshingly tart fruity drink by the<br />
name of Bitter Fortune. Gin and Aperol provide a<br />
subtle bitter flavour, while grapefruit and lemon<br />
juice give the drink a fresh, fruity character. It is<br />
garnished with raspberries, blueberries and lemon<br />
zest. Bitter Fortune is more than just a refreshing<br />
drink. Alberto tells us it is also healthy, as the bitter<br />
constituents of the grapefruit stimulate fat burning<br />
and help to reduce cholesterol.<br />
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3 | Celebrating with sweet and sour<br />
This summer, the historic Hotel Lausanne Palace<br />
& Spa is celebrating its 100th birthday. A good<br />
reason for Laurent Boulc’h, head barman of LP’s<br />
Bar, to honour the hotel with a special summer<br />
cocktail, a sweet and sour creation called the<br />
Palace Century. It is made with Limoncello, sugar<br />
syrup, bitter lemon and a fine white Burgundy from<br />
the Chasselas grape. The drink is served on the<br />
bar’s panorama terrace with beautiful views over<br />
Lake Geneva.<br />
4 | A fine herby aroma and blue gin<br />
In the Bar Les Trois Rois at the hotel of the same<br />
name in Basel, Bar Manager Thomas Huhn likes to<br />
offer his guests refreshment in the shape of a Blue<br />
London Summer. He mixes blue gin, apple juice<br />
and lemon juice with tea and a little honey. A few<br />
fresh basil leaves give it a delicate herby flavour.<br />
Thomas tells us that gin is currently the most<br />
popular spirit. The basil and apple juice in a Blue<br />
London Summer makes it the perfect refreshing<br />
drink on a hot summer’s day.<br />
5 | Martini with mint and berries<br />
at the Sans Souci Vienna<br />
The Hotel Sans Souci Vienna in Austria’s capital<br />
also serves up sparkling cocktails. Head barman<br />
Holger Gärtner’s favourite summer drink is the<br />
Jaguar F-Pace, made with Martini Rosato, Fentiman’s<br />
Rose Lemonade and sparkling Prosecco,<br />
served with fresh berries and mint in a red wine<br />
glass. He gave it this particular name because he<br />
thinks the drink is as refreshing as a trip in an<br />
open-top sports car. Guests at Le Bar also love<br />
their home-made iced teas and fruity smoothies.<br />
6 | Ginger and strawberries<br />
at the Hotel Sacher<br />
In the Blaue Bar of Vienna’s legendary Hotel Sacher,<br />
<strong>2015</strong> is all about ginger. Inspired by the many<br />
guests who frequently ask for fresh ginger in their<br />
classic cocktails, head barman Johannes Reim<br />
has added the mild tanginess of this spice to his<br />
fruity, refreshing creations. His favourite is a strawberry<br />
ginger cocktail consisting of fresh strawberries,<br />
strawberry puree, limes, ginger and white<br />
rum. For cocktail fans who like their drinks a little<br />
less sweet, he mixes a version with grapefruit and<br />
lemon juice and a shot of Campari.<br />
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The luxurious way of life | 221
CULINARIUM<br />
7<br />
7 | Berlin loves Vermouth<br />
This summer, everyone in Berlin is drinking Vermouth.<br />
Berliners love to sip their weekend drinks<br />
in the club-like atmosphere of the Amano Bar at<br />
the stylish hotel of the same name. Here, Vermouth<br />
is served with ice and tonic and garnished with a<br />
twist of lemon or grapefruit. Bar Manager Martin<br />
Bauermann explains: «This drink – also called<br />
Vertonic – is very light and refreshing. It’s not<br />
too sticky and not too tart, it just has a hint of<br />
bitterness.»<br />
8 | Gin with local herbs<br />
Gin was the big hit of last summer, and in <strong>2015</strong> it<br />
remains hugely popular with Berliners. In the bar of<br />
the upscale Das Stue hotel in Berlin, raspberryflavoured<br />
gin is combined with seasonal local<br />
herbs, egg white and a dash of soda. The Stue Bar<br />
is famous for serving classic cocktails from the<br />
Twenties and Thirties, and at weekends live music<br />
transports guests back to the Berlin atmosphere<br />
of the past.<br />
9 | Mint and pine cone bud syrup<br />
Warm nights in the woods around the campfire:<br />
the summer drink created by Arnd Heissen, Bar<br />
Manager of Fragrances, reminds him of the summer<br />
nights of his youth. They inspired him to call<br />
his favourite summer cocktail Nuit Étoilée, echoing<br />
the perfume of the same name created by Annick<br />
Goutal. He mixes his cocktail using Tanqueray Gin<br />
No. 10, Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire, fresh<br />
lemon juice, Moroccan mint and pine cone bud<br />
syrup. The Fragrances bar at the Ritz-Carlton in<br />
Berlin opened in April <strong>2015</strong> with a very special concept.<br />
Exclusive fragrances from brands such as<br />
Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent act as the<br />
inspiration for creating their unique drinks.<br />
10 | Munich raises a glass to Greece<br />
In Munich’s trendy bar The Flushing Meadows in<br />
the hotel of the same name, head barman Robin<br />
Bruderhofer raises a glass to Greece. His special<br />
drink for <strong>2015</strong> is based on the aroma of Mastiha, a<br />
Greek liqueur seasoned with resin from the mastic<br />
tree. He serves it in a wine glass, pouring homemade<br />
pink grapefruit lemonade and Müller-Thurgau<br />
white wine from Germany’s Palatinate region over<br />
ice, then garnishing it with mint and grapefruit<br />
chips. «This is our tart, fruity terrace drink for toasting<br />
the economic crisis and political dialogue», he<br />
says with a grin.<br />
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222 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong><br />
8
DID YOU<br />
KNOW…?<br />
Roots<br />
The carrot originally came from Afghanistan, which is still home to<br />
the largest number of different varieties. It has been grown for<br />
thousands of years, but for a long time people only ate the leaves,<br />
chopping them up like its relative, parsley. It wasn’t until the<br />
Middle Ages that people also began eating its root. But carrots<br />
should be eaten in moderation, as over-consumption can<br />
turn your nose orange, along with the palms of the hands, soles<br />
of the feet and backs of the knees (though this is less obvious<br />
because of the higher number of sweat glands). If you eat huge<br />
numbers of carrots, you will find the whole of your body takes<br />
on a pronounced yellow tone. This is known as carotenodermia.<br />
Christmas nuts<br />
The brazil nut tree has to be pollinated by a special type of bee. Then the nuts<br />
need fourteen months to ripen. So in every rainy season a small group of<br />
collectors gather in the Brazilian jungle to wait for the nuts to fall from the<br />
giant trees. Every year they harvest around 40,000 tonnes of nuts. The<br />
brazil nut also harbours a mystery that is still perplexing scientists<br />
after many years of research. They still have no answer to the<br />
«brazil nut problem» - why do the largest nuts in a box of muesli<br />
always rise to the top? It seems that as the muesli settles and<br />
touches the sides of the box, it forces the pieces in the middle to<br />
make way. And as large pieces are too chunky to gather<br />
against the sides again, they stay on top. This effect has more<br />
important but less familiar connotations, such as in drugs<br />
manufacturing, creating models of earthquake damage and<br />
the formation of asteroids.<br />
Serve chilled<br />
The Fiji islands’ gift to the world’s drink culture is called kava<br />
and is known as «the anti-energy drink». Village life revolves<br />
around this drink, which is drunk every day after work, but only<br />
by men. The thick, grey-green liquid tastes like mud and has<br />
an anaesthetic effect on the tongue and lips, and also on<br />
the stomach, which can cause nausea in people who are not<br />
used to the drink. But fans of kava are prepared to put up with<br />
these side effects in order to enjoy its sedative effects, which<br />
it is said are similar to a high dose of liquid Diazepam (Valium).<br />
The luxurious way of life | 223
CHEERS,<br />
SANTÉ<br />
AND<br />
PROST:<br />
BEER, MAN’S<br />
BEST FRI<strong>EN</strong>D!<br />
A cold beer can be the perfect way to<br />
wind down after work. Beer has<br />
many fans all over the world, there is no<br />
shortage of beer tours and beer<br />
events to help them learn more<br />
about the brewer’s art.<br />
GetYourGuide<br />
DRESD<strong>EN</strong><br />
The state capital of Saxony can also<br />
be explored on the beer trail. Take a<br />
city tour with a difference and find out<br />
what Dresden has to do with beer,<br />
guided by the Good Soldier Schwejk<br />
or Otto the Master Brewer. The<br />
guides’ cheery, chatty manner will<br />
give you a different perspective of<br />
magical Dresden. And of course you’ll<br />
be fortified by beer tastings and a<br />
two-course meal.<br />
It’s a little known fact, but Lithuania has its own independent beer<br />
tradition. The country currently has around 80 breweries, all<br />
producing their own varieties of beer. A three-hour pub tour<br />
around Vilnius allows visitors to sample a wide range of<br />
beers and learn more about the history of local brewing. It<br />
finishes in a small local brewery where the beer experts reveal<br />
some of the secrets of the brewer’s art.<br />
VILNIUS<br />
COLOGNE<br />
Kölsch is the only language you can drink! On a brewery<br />
tour visitors can experience the authentic atmosphere,<br />
typical Cologne lifestyle and special mentality of the oldest<br />
city on the Rhine. Through informative and entertaining<br />
anecdotes, lovers of beer find out why Kölsch makes you<br />
«beautiful, clever, slim and healthy» and how it affects<br />
your love life.<br />
224 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
AMSTERDAM<br />
You don’t always have to walk. Give your feet a rest<br />
and take a one-hour beer tour around the Dutch capital –<br />
by e-bike. 20 litres of beer are there to refresh you<br />
while you travel around the city and its sights. Don’t<br />
worry, the driver won’t be drinking! The tour is<br />
perfect for company events and stag nights, and<br />
can be combined with other activities.<br />
MUNICH<br />
How can we talk about beer without mentioning<br />
the Bavarian capital? München ist das reinste<br />
Mekka für Bierfreunde – nicht nur zu Oktoberfestzeiten.<br />
During an evening tour of Munich a tour<br />
guide introduces visitors to the world’s beer capital<br />
and shows them the favourite haunts of the locals.<br />
They learn more about the fascinating history of<br />
German brewing, including its historic beginnings,<br />
the huge monastery breweries of the Middle<br />
Ages, and the world-famous purity law, the Reinheitsgebot.<br />
Then it’s time to taste a range of beers<br />
and sample some local Bavarian dishes in one of<br />
the city’s best historic breweries. White sausage,<br />
roast pork with dumplings, and more … The<br />
package also includes a private tour of the Beer &<br />
Oktoberfest Museum.<br />
PRAGUE<br />
The Czech Republic and beer are inextricably linked. The prize for the<br />
highest per-capita beer consumption in the world doesn’t go to the Germans,<br />
but to their eastern neighbours. So a beer tour is a must when you’re in<br />
Prague. A three-hour tour of the best microbreweries gives visitors an insight<br />
into the history of beer and the city’s long brewing tradition. Every brewery<br />
gives visitors a chance to sample their beers. The choice includes traditional<br />
light and dark beers and seasonal brews. The tour includes the Pivovarsky<br />
Dum, the rustic U Fleku pub and the U Medvidku beer hall.
PREVIEW VOLUME 2<br />
The Emperor of the Tahitian pearl<br />
Robert Wan has brought the cultivation of Tahitian pearls<br />
to a whole new level, and is rightfully known as «the Emperor<br />
of the Tahitian pearl». His pearls range in colour from light<br />
grey to anthracite, with overtones of brown, blue, peacock green<br />
and aubergine. These extraordinarily beautiful pearls are<br />
worn by Tahitian men and women, young and<br />
old. His pearls are in demand with<br />
jewellers the world over. Our editor<br />
visited Wan’s pearl farms and<br />
learned more about the art of<br />
pearl cultivation.<br />
A city with heart<br />
Avant-garde architecture and unusual buildings<br />
dominate the skyline of Canada’s business and<br />
financial capital. Toronto is also a leading light of<br />
the theatre and dance scene. «Think big, be<br />
creative»: The city’s iconic buildings include the<br />
National Ballet School, whose original historic<br />
building has now been enfolded in glass wings,<br />
and the world’s third-highest TV tower, the<br />
CN Tower. But nature certainly doesn’t allow itself<br />
to be overshadowed – right on Toronto’s<br />
doorstep, the Niagara River plummets over the<br />
famous Falls at a rate of 155 million litres per<br />
minute. Toronto is home to more than 100 different<br />
cultures, providing a colourful blend of ideas,<br />
traditions, passions, tastes, flavours and<br />
opinions.<br />
The<br />
cowboy<br />
photographer<br />
Richard Prince became<br />
something of a superstar when<br />
he put together pieces of Marlboro<br />
advertisements to create his «Cowboys»<br />
series. But very few people know that this American<br />
artist owes a debt of gratitude to Dieter Blum, the German<br />
photographer who turned the myth of the American cowboy<br />
into advertising and art history. In 2007 his unique print<br />
«Rauchender Mann» (Smoking Man) became the most expensive photo<br />
ever to be sold at auction in Germany. Our editor talks to Blum about<br />
his fascination with cowboys and looks back at his 50-year career<br />
as a photographer. The large-grained textures and overblown<br />
colours of his photographs give them an almost<br />
cinematic look.<br />
226 | <strong>PRESTIGE</strong>
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