2-art

Checkinn99
50+ years of
Bangkok Bar History

CheckInn99, 50+ Years of Bangkok Bar History
Nestled amongst the hair salons, tailors' stores, restaurants and pharmacies
between Sukhumvit Sois 5 and 7 is a short, narrow corridor. This may be the
busiest stretch of Sukhumvit Road, but thousands pass by this corridor every day
without knowing it leads to Bangkok's longest continuously running bar and
nightclub, CheckInn99.
Just 2½ years ago CheckInn99 was within hours of being demolished when it was
saved by someone who hated to see such a historic venue resigned to Bangkok
bar history.
This week I spent an evening in CheckInn99 and enjoyed good food, great music
and the company of some real characters. I chatted with regulars, was
entertained by the owner and was regaled with tales by the loyal staff at
CheckInn99, for some of whom it is the only workplace they have known.

The short corridor leading in to
CheckInn99 is full of photos, articles and
excerpts from magazines and tourist
brochures highlighting the venue's rich
history. An old nightclub guide from 1965
with special comments about the then
famous venue.
There are many gems from a bygone era
including a photograph showing
Sukhumvit Road before the Vietnam War,
back when it was but a dirt track. Others
show pictures showing brand new cars
which now are vintage collectables.

The origins of the venue's current (Checkinn99) name go back to the mugging of the
manager of the day. Locking up late one night during one of Thailand's many coups,
he was set upon by some goons and never recovered. The venue stopped trading for
a short time before being acquired by some Danish entrepreneurs who set it up as a
sort of mini-Copenhagen restaurant, a home away from home. Whilst popular
amongst Danes, it never really took off. At that time nightclubs and bars around town
were booming.
The place to go in Bangkok back then was Club99, in Silom. (named after the well
known scotch whiskey). And Club99 was where the women were. Girls were
needed and the decision was made to entice girls from Club99 to the bar by merging
the two bars. And that is exactly what happened. Many of the girls from Club99
came to work at what was then known as The Copa. Amongst them was a Mama Noi
who had previously worked at The Copa before moving to Club99. With a club full of
girls, customers would talk about checking in to 99. The phrase check in 99 stuck and
the venue was renamed and officially became known as CheckInn99. For a period it
was also known as Checkinn Garden.

There was a time when the front door was
locked and if you weren't of Viking heritage
some fast talking was needed to get inside. It
was strictly a word of mouth bar.
First you had to get past the famous dwarf who
guarded the door.
From there it was a few steps down the dimly lit
corridor before reaching a gothic black steel
framed glass door, and the bar proper.
Back in the day there were 40-odd short-time rooms above the club, which have
since been sealed off by the current owner.
A stairwell at the rear of the venue used to lead up to the rooms in what must
have been the grandest of bordellos. There has been no connection between the
bar and those rooms for years, although up until about a year or so ago they were
home to dozens of ladies of the night.

Rumours hit this column in early 2011 that CheckInn99 would close and on the
last day of March, 2011, the club was just hours from demolition. I'd only ever
been there once during a period of disrepair and as such didn't take a lot of
notice. Like many, I didn't know of its rich history and while reporting its
imminent closure, I admit I didn't give it a great deal of thought.
The long-serving staff knew there was only one way to save the club. They would
call in monks whose job it would be to deliver a miracle!
A group of monks came in early on the morning of the last day of March, 2½ years
ago. 30 minutes of chanting later they stopped, announcing that CheckInn would
not close. Having done their job - they promptly left.

At 3 PM that same afternoon an Aussie who loved the venue was offered the lease
just hours before the planned demolition was to begin. That same afternoon the
Danish shareholders arrived for a grand goodbye that sounded like a cross
between a drink the bar dry bachelor's party and a plate-smashing Greek
wedding. But the party was cut short when in walked the new owner with lease
in hand, having paid just 72,000 baht for the business.
The new owner was elated and ran over to the staff waving the lease wildly,
announcing to all that the venue would survive. Your jobs are safe! We can
celebrate! There was none of the joy he expected.
He was greeted by expressionless faces like that of the otherwise kind and friendly
Loong Wat, above. "We already knew the venue wouldn't close. We called in the
monks this morning and when they left they told us everything would be ok."
The bar was restored - not renovated - to its original condition, taking the opposite
direction to nearly every other venue in town, making it a sort of time capsule of
the old Bangkok. Broken cane chairs were put back together, rather than replacing
them. They are rickety but in their own way – comfortable.

The cleaning staff are the first to arrive at the club, opening up early
afternoon. While they perform their duties, drinks are delivered, glasses are
cleaned, bottles are checked. Food is stocked, tables cleaned and adjusted. Sound
equipment checks are made and the air-conditioning
activated as service staff trickle in.
The Joss sticks are lit, the spirit shelves
served the first rounds of juice, water and
brandy. With the spirits appeased, the
extraction fans are activated to clear the
smell of incense before the second scared
ritual, the staff dinner.
With their bellies full, the staff are ready for
another night.
The happy hour acoustic musicians arrive before 6:00 PM, along with the first
customers and early diners. It's the start of another night at CheckInn99.

There are 2 owner operators, an Aussie / Thai couple who each have full-time
jobs and prefer the title caretaker rather than owner, along with a silent partner
overseas.
Unique in the industry, the venue doesn't have a manager. The staff are
empowered and everyone knows their duties and responsibilities.
The owners have tried to find the right person to manage the venue but Thai
managers just don't get the idea that staff have the authority to make their own
decisions.
With some staff loyal for more than 30 years, whose bar is it anyway?!
A total of 25 staff operate the venue, including bar, restaurant and wait
staff. Today there are less than half a dozen hostesses, down from 35 when the
current owners took over 2½ years ago.

When Chris and Mook bought CheckInn99 in March 2011 for 72,000 baht (not a
misprint), it was known as much for available ladies as anything but with very few
customers, a few stoic regulars aside.
Today there are less than half a
dozen hostesses and for the most
part you would not even know
that the odd lady may be
available.
The hostesses double as service
staff. No conscious decision was
made to tone that part of the
club down.
Through natural attrition the number of available ladies has declined. At the
same time takings have gone up and the general popularity of the venue has
soared. Coincidence?

The venue features an eclectic mix of decorations, ornaments and artworks, some of
which are collectibles, some of which are scarce and some of which may even be
irreplaceable. Advertisements for products discontinued decades ago line the walls,
alongside posters for Hollywood classics. This is not a retro bar, but genuine time
capsule of Old Bangkok.
4 parrots perch throughout the club, their clothing changed to match parties or
special events taking place. One of the parrots was dressed in an orange feather hat
after a party for some Dutch revelers a couple of weeks back.
Acknowledging the
club's Danish heritage,
Viking hats kept behind
the bar are happily
donned when the
previous owners visit.

Classic Thai nude prints from a bygone era hang on the walls of the corridor
leading to the toilets. Said to be of considerable value, they have been stolen
more than once prompting frantic appeals to locate them and ask for their no
questions return. Today the original prints are bolted to the wall in the bar and
copies were made for the person who returned them.

The original of Chris Coles' famous expressionist Soi Cowboy painting hangs
behind the band, and attracts offers each week. It's not for sale and feels like it
belongs where it is. Doesn't art increase in value after the artist dies?
This being Thailand, it might be time to for you to get a bodyguard, Chris Coles!
The white flamingos behind the band inspired the
latest noir novel from James Newman. Thom Locke
based his voila moment in the latest Sam Collins
crime novel, "Jim Thompson Is Alive" on Mama Noi's
recollections of the people who knew Jim.
A number of Bangkok expat fiction writers have
adopted CheckInn99 which is now being used for
their numerous book launches and the venue is now
often being woven into to their various plots.
Dean Barrett will launch his historical thriller "The
China Memoirs" in CheckInn later this year and
Christopher G Moore and James Newman are
scheduled to host literary events next year.

Undated jazz band figurines share a shelf with bottles of the good stuff. They
were found buried in a pile of liquefied cartons in the old cellar when it was
drained and they fit nicely with the recent addition of Sunday Jazz.
The previous owners closed
the doors on Sunday in the
belief that opening that day
wasn't worthwhile – that was
immediately reversed by the
new owner. Today, Sundays are
one of the busier days with 12
hours of non-stop live music in a
club that delivers an astonishing
60 hours of live music a week!
Speaking of chattels of value,
18 Tiffany lights were left after the previous shareholders can't have realized
their value. They go for 15,000 - 20,000 baht each at Chatuchak Market and the
replacement value is estimated at 300,000 baht, nearly 5 times the purchase
price of the bar.

With so many long-timers on the staff, CheckInn is
full of stories.
Khun Yao has been cashier for more than 30 years
and was romantically involved with Neil Davis, the
Australian combat cameraman who was recognized
for his work as a photojournalist during the Vietnam
War and other conflicts in the region.
He happened to be a visitor to Checkinn99 during its
heyday. Neil was killed in an ill-fated and short-lived
attempt at a coup in Bangkok in September, 1985.
A copy of Neil Davis’ biography One Crowded Hour by Tim Bowden sits behind her
at the cashiers desk.

The venue prides itself on offering home-style food, prepared by cooks - not
chefs. There's none of this nauseating pretension you see on all of these silly
cooking shows. The sign says it all, this really is food for the soul.
The food menu has not
changed in decades and
there's a good mix of Thai
and Western dishes.
Of particular note is the
Chateaubriand, a quite
lovely cut of meat which
has been on the menu for
the last 30 years. Once
prepared, it is sliced and
served at your table.
Shirking the trend of constant price increases in recent years,
menu items have not changed price in 6 years.

CheckInn99 was the first bar in Bangkok to offer Crystal Head Vodka, Dan
Aykroyd's own brand of high purity vodka which has gained popularity for its
unique bottle and ultra smooth taste.
The profits from the
first 200 bottles sold
are being donated to
three selected
orphanages - being
in line with the
Blues Brothers'
theme nights which
are held twice a
year.

Few bars or nightspots have a team of staff who are so genuinely happy in their
work. Older staff may grimace for the camera - par for the course for those of
their generation - but get them talking and they are all smiles and fun. Younger
staff go about their duties with obvious satisfaction, all of which contributes to
the club's fun vibe.

The grand dame of Sukhumvit, Mama Noi, is looking as dignified as ever. She
adjusts her cleavage, proud of what she is packing and asks me how much she
should show. Several photos are required before she feels we get it just right -
not too little and not too much!
Hang them out, Mama Noi, I joke. She grabs me and for a moment I wonder if
she has a thing for younger men. I'm just joking with you, she says, in that
engaging and playful manner of hers.
As flirtatious as the most dollied up bird on Sukhumvit, Mama Noi enjoys the
attention of, and fun conversation with a gentleman.
Mama Noi experienced a surge of visitors when she was featured in this column
last year and even today, Stickman readers make the trek to CheckInn to meet
her. Mama Noi enjoys receiving visitors so don't be shy to stop by and say
hi. The Mama Noi article has been printed out, laminated and compiled in a
folder with supplementary photos added. She'd love to talk you through it and
share her stories with you.

Owner Chris attributes much of the venue's success to the house band, Music Of The
Heart, a supremely talented Filipino family band who has been belting out songs at
CheckInn for well over a decade. They are a great example of dedication and
professionalism, one family with 3 generations on stage performing every night of the
year!
They arrive at 6 PM to get ready and are on stage from 8:30 for the first of 5 highenergy
sets of covers, hits and golden oldies with dancing and choreographed moves.
When most are heading home, the band heads for lunch between 2 - 3 AM to
recharge their energy levels in readiness for 4 hours of rehearsals from 3 until 7 AM,
each and every day, before their very strict regime of 8 hours sleep a night. The talent
and dedication of Kiko, Cherry, Grace, Donna, Badz and Jess is amazing.
They greet every customer - those who have been in before by name and for firsttimers
a warm welcome with a polite question as to where they are from. They will
often respond with a local song from that person's home country and sing numbers
not just in English, but in Afrikaans, French, Chinese, German and even Swahili.

CheckInn99 goes through several phases each night. Early evening is relaxing
with the solo artist performing and diners chatting.
When the house band first gets on stage they are dressed in cocktail dresses and
perform lighter songs and some easy listening.
Music of the Heart would have to be one of the most talented and enthusiastic
cover bands in Asia, there are also intrinsically linked to Checkinn99, they are in
all respects the Heart of Checkinn and have rightfully developed a cult like
following from a diverse customer group. They understand the audience mix and
preferences, anticipating many song requests from customers before they are
even asked for.
From the third set on the place rocks with the house band raising the tempo with
a mix of dance and rock hits.
As the night progresses it typically fills up. Crowd wise it's usually busiest
between 10:00 PM and midnight. 1:30 AM is usually the last song but on a busy
night the band might go until 2 AM.

I'm no fan of Trip Advisor with
so much content from
unknown authors to be taken
with a grain of salt.
Its popularity and influence,
however, cannot be
questioned.
Remarkably it's not Angelwitch or Bacarra or Rainbow 4 which holds the number 1
nightlife attraction in Bangkok position on Trip Advisor, but CheckInn99!
For nearly 2 years it has held the number 1 spot and it was recently nominated by Trip
Advisor's own destination experts as one of the Top 20 Hidden Gems.
Not in Bangkok, but in the world..!!!

Mamas Noi entertaining Bob Hope in the late 1960’s

Checkinn has always had Philippine bands entertaining guests – here is a photo taken
25 years ago.

The band is in full swing and the party atmosphere is being enjoyed by a diverse mix
of people. Harley riders sit next to bankers and diplomats. Soi Cowboy girls with
their beau leap up on stage and show that they really can dance when they want
to. A bunch of pretty female expats look longingly at the few single males.
A professor whines to a columnist about his constant references to the good old
days. Irrespective of their background, everyone is treated the same - like an old
friend. The service is friendly, the hospitality genuine.
Checkinn99 is a real Bangkok treasure. It's full of history, has many stories, and
unlike other long-running Bangkok nightspots, it's still a blast today.
If you're a Bangkok nightlife history buff, like a good night out or are just looking for a
place where the music is good, the food like your mother made and the hospitality
genuine, take a look at CheckInn99.

Directly I used to have a policy where I would only profile a venue once. The reason
was that I didn't think readers would want information repeated. One reader
appealed to me a while back to do a feature on CheckInn99. I explained my then
policy that as I had already given it something of a mention in one column I did not
feel it appropriate to profile it again. However, venues change, old readers go and
new readers come on board, and as such I felt that it was time to rethink my policy. I
am glad I did because I really enjoyed putting together this week's opener on
CheckInn99. It's nice to do something positive as opposed to the op / ed style think
piece which doesn't always make for warm fuzzies.
Photo essays and column openers built around photos are what I enjoy the most. If
there are any venues you'd like to see profiled that you think fit with this column and
its readership, let the manager / owner of the venue know and if they are interested
in doing something, encourage them to contact me. The exposure could be very good
for business.
Your Bangkok commentator,
Stick

The Checkinn99 event calendar is a crowded one. Theme nights, mini musicals and
even full stage shows are scheduled as often as twice a month through the year.
The Memphis Belle night was popular with Music of the Heart band putting on a one
hour Andrews Sisters set.

The Casablanca nights are a real favourite.

Chinese New Year and pyjama parties