Raven Guides: Germany - Passau

Veste Oberhaus
Passau

Passau
The small city on the Austrian
border is where the rivers
Danube, Inn and Ilz meet at one of
Germany’s legendary locations.
The rest is history.
Like the rivers, German-Austrian, Italian and
even some Czech influences meet in Passau. An
ancient regional salt trade supplied Bohemia
as well as Bavaria. Batavis or Passavium,
early forms of the city name, referred to the
barbarian Batavian troops stationed here in
the first of three forts built by the Romans.
St Severin established a monastery in the 5th
century and in the 8th century St Boniface
founded what became the largest diocese of
the Holy Roman empire, stretching along the
Danube/Donau into Hungary. Its reach – and
that of its bishops – into central Europe was
thus extensive. Relations with Italy via Austria
were renewed long after the Roman collapse.
The city plays a role in the 12th or 13th
century verse epic Das Nibelungenlied, a
version of the ancient Nibelung tale probably
compiled for the Passau bishop Wolfger. Also
acquiring legendary status were swords forged
locally and stamped with the Passau wolf. But
its position at the river junction made the city
an important distribution port in the salt trade
and delivered much of its wealth.
Passau became a centre for theological
studies in the 17th century and much of its
Baroque splendour comes from reconstruction
work after the ravages of a 1662 town fire.
The 2013 flood of more than 12m in a city
used to flooding ravaged lower-lying parts of
the city area, where residents, businesses and
institutions were still carrying out remedial
work months later. Only floods in 1501 are
known to have been higher.
Altstadt
The remodelled city centre has not overshadowed
the charm of the old town, which
near the confluence at Dreiflüsse-Eck narrows
into a network of archways, stairways and
cobbled lanes. Baroque is the dominant style
there and along the walled promenade on
the Inn’s north bank. The narrow Höllgasse
starts at the Untere Donaulände boat landings
and runs parallel with the Danube through to
Rathausplatz with its galleries, boutiques and
gift shops.
The favourite evening stroll is along the
Innkai to the point of the river junction, past
the 15th century tower Schaiblingsturm, which
marks the medieval salt harbour. The Jesuit
St-Michaels-Kirche (or Studienkirche) and the
adjacent former Jesuit college are above the
bank on Schwabgasse. The abbey church of
Kloster Niedernburg on Jesuitengasse has the
grave of the blessed abbess Gisela, once queen
of the saint Stephen I of Hungary.
Innstadt
On the Inn’s south bank are several attractions
in an ideal area for evening walking. The
oldest are the footings of the Roman fort on
Lederergasse (see Museums) and remnants
of medieval wall along Jahnstraße, where
gateways reveal a second wall line with towers.
The late medieval gate Severintor is nearby on
Am Severintor and the Severinkirche at the
south end of the Fünferlsteg footbridge marks
the site of St Severin’s 5th century basilica.
The pilgrimage church Mariahilfkirche and its
monastery are above Kapuzinerplatz at the top
of the Mariahilfstiege steps.
Information
The main office of Passau Tourismus and
accommodation service is centrally located at
Rathausplatz 3 by the town hall, although an
office is located not far from Hauptbahnhof
at Bahnhofstraße 28. At the website www.
tourismus.passau.de the English tab is at
the bottom left. Bücher Pustet (M-Sa 9-20)
at Nibelungenplatz 1 has an excellent map
selection but its guidebook range is all in
German. Thalia Bücher (M-Sa 9.30-20) is
on the upper level at the west end of the
Stadtgalerie complex.
The book Passau City Guide is available
at €5.80.
RAVEN QUICK GUIDE
Tourist information & accommodation service: Rathausplatz 3 (tel 0851-955980,
email tourist-info@passau.de, Apr-Sep M-F 8.30-18, Sa-Su 9-16, Oct-Easter M-Th 8.30-17,
F 8.30-16, Sa-Su 10-15); Bahnhofstraße 28 (M-F 9-12, 12.30-17, Sa-Su 10.30-15.30).
Money: VR-Bank, Ludwigsplatz 1 (M-W & F 8.30-16.15, Th 8.30-17); Sparkasse,
Ludwigstraße 8 (M-W 8.30-16.30, Th 8.30-18, F 8.30-17); Commerzbank, Bahnhofstraße 22
(M-W & F 9-13, 14-16, Th 9-13, 14-19).
Lockers: Hauptbahnhof, platform 1 (€4/2 per day).
Transit information: VBP, Zentraler Omnibus Bahnhof, Dr-Hans-Kapfinger-Straße (tel
0851-560186, M-Th 8-11.45, 12.30-16, F 8-14).
Post: Nibelungen Center, Nikolastraße 2 (M-F 8-18, Sa 8-14).
Internet: Netcafe, Nibelungen Center, Nikolastraße 2 (M-Sa 9-21, Su 12-17);
Bahnhofsrestaurant, Hauptbahnhof (M-Su 9-21).
Police: tel 110; Nibelungstraße 17 (tel 0851-95110).
Pharmacy: Bahnhof-Apotheke-Passau, Bahnhofstraße 17 (M-F 8-18, Sa 9-18);
Hofapotheke zum Schwarzen Adler, Residenzplatz 12 (M-F 8-18, Sa 8-12.30);
Salvator-Apotheke, Freyunger Straße 2 (M-F 8-18, Sa 8-12); Engel-Apotheke,
Bahnhofstraße 10 (M-F 8-18.15, Sa 9-16).
Ambulance: tel 112.
The Altstadt with the Danube in the foreground.
Hospital: Klinikum Passau, Innstraße 76 (tel 0851-53000 or 19222).
Transport
Fast trains arrive either from Regensburg
(several times daily, just over one hour) or
from Linz and Vienna/Wien. Passengers to
and from Regensburg can pick up services
to or from Munich or Plattling, connecting
through Agilis trains running Regensburg-
Plattling. The Deutsche Bahn Reisezentrum
(M 6-17.30, Tu-F 6.30-17.30, Sa 7-17, Su
9-16.30) at the Hauptbahnhof can help with
connections information and ticket machines
are available when the office is closed.
The Ilztalbahn rail service (using RBO
bus connections) offers ways into the national
park areas of the Bavarian forest (change at
Freyung) and to České Budějovice/Budweis
and Český Krumlov/Krumau in the Czech
Republic (change at Waldkirchen for buses to
join Czech trains at the border).
Berlin Linien Bus runs to Passau from
Berlin via Leipzig, Hof, Regensburg and
Deggendorf and on to Bad Füssing (W &
Sa) and return (Th & Su). The Zentraler
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RAVEN TRAVEL GUIDES GERMANY - Passau 1

The late Baroque and Neoclassical bishops’
residence Neue Residenz at Residenzplatz has
an ornate staircase with stucco decoration putting
it among Germany’s finest (along with a ceiling
fresco) usually accessible through the west door.
The adjacent cathedral treasury can be reached
through the cathedral. Outside on Residenzplatz
is the Wittelsbacher Brunn, after the Baroque
style but actually early 20th century. The
Neoclassical Fürstbischöfliche Opernhaus
building at the west end now houses the
Stadttheater.
The Rathaus goes back to at least the 14th century,
although the present tower is Neogothic. The vaulted great
assembly hall Großer Rathaussaal and small hall were
stuccoed by Carlone in the 17th century after the great fire.
In the 19th century local artist Ferdinand Wagner painted
the ceilings with events from local history and
Nibelung motifs when the other Wagner was in high vogue.
The Rathausplatz facade with the Danube’s historical flood
markers indicates the many deluges the city has survived.
Großer Rathaussaal (late March-Oct M-Su 10-16, late
Nov-early Jan M-Su 10-16, €2/1.50) is also part of the city
tour but it or the smaller hall are often closed for functions.
The tower glockenspiel sounds daily at 10.30, 14.00 and
19.25 with an extra Saturday carillion at 15.30.
The Dom St Stephan at Domplatz is a Gothic cathedral
transformed after a 17th century fire to Italian Baroque
on a grand scale by the innovative plans of Prague
resident Carlo Lurago and the Italian architect Paolo
d’Aglio. The opulent stucco work is by Giovanni
Battista Carlone and frescoes by Carpoforo Tencalla
feature the stoning of the saint. It houses one of the
world’s great church organs of almost 18,000 pipes.
Half-hour organ concerts (May-Oct or Christmas-New
Year’s Eve, M-Sa 12-12.30, holidays closed, €4/2
children under 10 free) are a highlight but connoisseurs
might prefer the one-hour evening performances (May-
Oct Th 19.30-20.30, €8/5).
Kloster Niedernburg’s Klosterkirche zum Heiligen
Kreuz in Jesuitengasse is the resting place of the blessed
Gisela, queen of St Stephen and daughter of the Bavarian
duke Heinrich II. The largely 12th century Romanesque
church is on the site of a Carolingian predecessor. Gisela
entered the convent after her husband’s death and was
abbess when she died in the 1060s. Most of her remains
(bones of the couple were reunited in Hungary in 1996) lie
on the south side of the church, now a pilgrimage site. The
Benedictine foundation was the centre of the Passau
bishops when they were styled prince-bishops early in the
13th century and it is speculated that the Niebelungenlied
poet had a special relationship with it. It was later taken
over by the sisterhood founded by English nun Mary Ward.
Veste Oberhaus, the Gothic castle high above the Danube,
overlooking the old town, is the former fortress of the
Passau bishops and later a military prison. Apart from the
spectacular view and youth hostel there is the excellent
Oberhausmuseum Passau (see Museums below), pulling
together the themes of the city’s complex history. Walking
up (the path Ludwigsteig closes at 17.00 daily) involves a
little effort and many will find the half-hourly shuttle bus
from Rathausplatz (mid Apr-early Nov M-F 10-17, Sa-Su
10-18, €1.70/€1.20, families €5.50) worth the fare and opt
for the stroll down. At times the path becomes hazardous
during winter weather. Veste Niederhaus below, though
connected by battlements, is closed to the public and the
best view of it is from a river ferry or Dreiflüsse Eck.
Omnibusbahnhof on Dr-Hans-Kapfinger-
Straße at Nibelungplatz handles regional and
long-distance buses.
Danube ferries (see Cruises) are the
leisurely alternatives in both directions.
Bicycle riders find in Passau the hub of
several bicycle paths. The German portion of
the Donauradweg from Donaueschingen joins
the Austrian portion at the border, continuing
via Linz to Vienna. The Inntalradweg follows
the Inn valley to Innsbruck in Austria,
continuing to the pass at Maloja beyond St
Moritz in Switzerland.
Other routes lead to Salzburg, Neumarkt in
der Oberpfalz and Bad Gögging on the Danube
between Regensburg and Ingolstadt (called the
Via Danubia or Römerradweg).
City transit: Local buses also converge on
the ZOB. The VBP local transit information
office there (see Quick Guide) is open to 18.00
on the first two and last two working days of
each month.
Passau has extensive pedestrian zones and
the only buses likely to appeal (unless crossing
the Inn) are the castle shuttle and Citybus. The
VBP bus network, including the shuttle, is
covered by PassauCard (see below) or Bayern-
Ticket. Single-trip tickets (€1.70/1.20) last 90
minutes and allow changes of bus (except for
the castle shuttle) but strip tickets for eight
journeys (€9/5.50, to be validated on board)
are considerably cheaper. Tickets can be
bought from bus drivers.
The Citybus (M-Sa 7.30-18.30, single trip
€0.90) shuttles between the Hauptbahnhof
and Römerplatz at the end of Prinzregent-
Leopold-Brücke via Rathausplatz and the
ZOB. Motorists with a short-term parking pass
at the Hauptbahnhof Parkhaus can use this as
a Citybus ticket.
Bus route numbers preceded by a K are
for smaller vehicles. A contracted evening bus
service (M-Su 20.30-23.30) runs nine routes
from the ZOB to connect outer areas.
There are several bike hire options.
Fahrrad-Laden Passau (tel 0851-72226, Apr-
Sep M-F 8-18, Sa 8-14, Oct-Mar M-F 10-18,
Sa 10-14) at Roßtränke 12 has bicycles at €13
per day, €11 per day for three days and €10 per
day for a week and can arrange access to public
bike lockers for travellers. Bikehaus (tel 0151-
12834224, Mar-mid Oct M-Su 9-12.30, 15-18)
at the end of platform 1 at the Hauptbahnhof
has similar rates and is part of the Rent A
Bike network, offering a pick-up and drop-off
scheme along the Danube to Vienna.
PassauCard
The card allows free entry to Passau museums,
free city tours and three rivers cruises (see
Cruises), a return trip on the castle shuttle
bus (and a coffee at the cafe) and free bus
travel. Discounts or specials on shopping and
attractions in the Passau region are included.
PassauCards for one, two or three days
(€15/12, €22/15 or €27.50/19) or up to
three weeks (€59/41) are available at tourist
information offices and many accommodation
houses.
Tours
English city sightseeing tours are by
arrangement only (tel 0851-955980, email
stadtfuehrung@passau.de). But electronic
guides in English can be hired (€7.50 for
three hours, €10 overnight for return the next
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morning) from one of the tourist offices.
Cruises
Donauschiffahrt Wurm+Köck (Höllgasse 26,
tel 0851-929292, email info@donauschiffahrt
.de, www.donauschiffahrt.de) runs 45-minute
Dreiflüsse Stadtrundfahrt cruises taking in
the three rivers and giving a picture of the
city from the water. They depart half-hourly
opposite Rathausplatz (early Mar-early Nov
M-Su 10-17, €7.80/3.90). Two-hour dance
or summer buffet cruises and festival period
options are also available. Services to and
from Deggendorf vary by season.
Other high-season cruises into Austria
land at Engelhartszell (M-Su, €14.50/7.25) or
Linz (Tu-Su, €23/11.50). The Linz cruise has
a €26/13 day return fare with a €29/14.50 bus
or train return option and links with services
to Vienna.
The black waters of the Ilz, front, and the green-grey Inn,
rear, merge with the sometimes-blue Danube.
In the Innstadt remains of Passau’s medieval walls
line the Lederergasse-Jahnstraße precinct. Cross
the Fünferlsteg footbridge from the city centre and
on the right is the last Romanesque-Gothic church
of St Severin (Mar-Oct 7-18, Apr & Sep 7-19,
May-Aug 7-20, Nov-Feb 7-17). The saint was the
5th century founder of a nearby monastery. It is
now a cemetery church and many late-medieval
gravestones are set in the walls. Walk through the
stone gate Severintor into Jahnstraße and the line
of walls and towers stretches east. On
Lindental a substantial tower, now incorporated
into a residence, can be viewed. Take buses 3 or 4
to Jahnstraße.
On the hill above the main Inn bridge is the monastery and
pilgrimage church of Mariahilf with pilgrim steps leading
up from Schmiedegasse at Kapuzinerplatz. The church
became a pilgrimage centre after the emperor Leopold I
prayed there with success for victory over the Ottomans
in 1683. The passage of more than 300 steps leads to the
monastery courtyard and its cross stations are from the 19th
century but 17th century monastery buildings remain. At the
altar a copy of Lucas Cranach the elder’s Mary with Christ
child (c1540) stands in place of the original that was once
in the church. The passage is used by pilgrims and a less
intrusive alternative route is the second set of steps from
Innstadtkellerweg (the first is closed). Take bus K1 (hourly)
to Mozartstraße or buses 3 or 4 to Jahnstraße and climb.
The Roman fortress of Boiotro was the
frontier of the province of Noricum in
the 2nd and 3rd centuries. The
Romans, who had themselves displaced
the local Celtic settlement Boiodurum,
were attacked by Germanic tribes and
forced to build again nearby. Römer
Museum Boiotro stands amid the partly
reconstructed remains of the site as a
collection of Roman finds and history
(see Museums below). Two 3D scopes
in the garden reconstruct how the fort
would have looked in antiquity. Take
buses 3 or 4 to Jahnstraße.
Views
The finest vantage points are above the
Danube’s north bank along the path
Ludwigsteig below Veste Oberhaus or from
the fortress itself. There the striking contrasts
between the blue of the Danube, the greygreen
Inn and the darker Ilz are best studied.
The small terrace beside Mariahilfkirche
offers another perspective on the old town.
For a more inclusive view of the rivers and
city by arrangement, consider balloon flights
(€160/95) with Dreiflüsse-Ballooning Passau,
Malerweg 2A (tel 0171-4728416, email info@
dreifluesseballooning.de, www.dreifluesseballooning.de).
MB Bayernhimmel Ballonfahrt,
Ludwigsplatz 4, tel 08513-4600,
bayernhimmel.de flies from Veste Oberhaus
(€180/160).
Parks & gardens
The most peaceful point in the city is usually
the Dreiflüsse Eck, where a small greened
spot allows contemplation of the place where
the rivers merge. The lack of other such areas
means there is sometimes activity, such as
children’s amusements, during summer.
Taking in the view of the whole city from
almost anywhere on the wooded Ludwigsteig
just below Veste Oberhaus is also a restful
experience.
Food
The restaurant Am Paulusbogen (tel 0851-
931060, M-Su 7-23) under the church vaults at
the east end of Rindermarkt includes grills and
a list of Balkan specialities under €20 and can
boast a terrace overlooking the Danube with a
view of the fortress above.
The unassuming Restaurant Passau at
Schrottgasse 10 offers a Greek menu as well as
fish and salads with most courses in the €8-18
range. Vito’s Gustoria at Grabengasse 21 is
a small cafe restaurant with variety including
pasta, pizza, salads and daily specials as well
as breakfast.
Scharfrichterhaus, Milchstraße 2, (M-
Sa 17-1) has budget to mid-priced dishes and
other attractions (see Meet & drink). Burg
Cafe in the courtyard at Veste Oberhaus (mid
Mar-mid Nov M-F 10-17) is handy for light
lunches as well as coffee breaks at the fortress.
Meet & drink
Rindermarkt is a centre for outdoor cafe service
daily. An English-speaking crowd finds its
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way Fridays and Saturdays to the Shamrock
Irish pub at Roßtränke 5 for nightlife or live
soccer and Thursdays for bar trivia in English
and German with cash prizes. Completely
different is the political cabaret at the former
executioner’s house Scharfrichterhaus,
Milchstraße 2, a restaurant and cafe with
jazz and cinema shows (tickets sometimes
necessary, check scharfrichter-haus.de).
The ensemble of the fortress Veste Oberhaus
perched above the city.
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
The street network lends the
Altstadt an almost
Mediterranean character.
Höllgasse, left, and lanes
such as Hirschwirtsgaßl and
the arches and steps east
of Domplatz betray some
secrets of the past.
The Oberhausmuseum Passau at Veste Oberhaus 125 (mid Mar-mid Nov, M-F 9-17,
Sa-Su 10-18, €5/4, families €10) covers Passau’s history, including the importance of
the salt trade, medieval life and craft guilds, historic pharmacy, firefighting and porcelain.
The shuttle bus from Rathausplatz makes for an easier climb than the steep path and
presentation of the shuttle ticket brings a €1 entry discount.
Museum Moderner Kunst Wörlen (Tu-Su 10-18, €5/3) in a historic Altstadt residence at
Bräugasse 17 presents art of the 20th and 21st centuries with an emphasis on regional
artists (including the so-called Donauwald Group) and collections of painting, drawing and
sculpture.
Glasmuseum Passau (M-Su 13-17, €7/5, children under 6 free) in the Wilder Mann
building at Rathausplatz exhibits glassware and glass art from the Baroque to Modern
periods.
The Domschatz and Diözesanmuseum (May-Oct M-Sa 10-16, holidays closed, €2/1,
families €2.50) at Domplatz 3, apart from the notable Carlone Baroque staircase, includes
the episcopal residence, episcopal history, cathedral treasury and pilgrimage history (enter
from cathedral’s south aisle).
Römermuseum Kastell Boiotro (Tu-Su 10-16, €4/2) in Jahnstraße in the Innstadt is
developed around the foundations of the 3rd century Roman camp, explaining Roman
frontier life and the local archaeology. Take bus 3 or 4 to Jahnstraße.
The high flood of 2013 was a challenge for Passau’s museums and some were temporarily
closed. For news on all Passau museums visit www.museen-in-passau.de.
Accommodation
To book accommodation including private
rooms online, visit the tourist website or
survey the lists and email requests to touristinfo@passau.de.
Tourist offices (see Quick
Guide) will also handle requests. A range of
budget rooms can be viewed at www.passaupension
.de.
Hotel Garni Herdegen, Bahnhofstraße
5, tel 0851-955160, www.hotel-herdegen.de
has singles/doubles/triples from €65/100/130
(breakfast buffet €7 extra) close to railway and
bus stations and shops and has WLAN access
free in the lobby.
For a historic feel in the old town, Hotel
Wilder Mann (tel 0851-35071, www.
wilder-mann.com) at Rathausplatz, has small
single and double rooms with breakfast from
€50/100, royal suites at €100 per person and
a family apartment. Hotel Passauer Wolf
(tel 0851-931510, www.hotel-passauer-wolf.
de) at Untere Donaulände 4 has some singles
starting at €45/74 depending on the day of the
week and events, but rates can be substantially
higher on Fridays and Saturdays.
Budget rooms in the old town are offered at
Pension zur Goldenen Sonne (tel 0851-2730,
www.pension-goldene-sonne.de) at Unterer
Sand 18 from €30/55/70) and apartments.
Internet access is available.
Across the bridge in the Innstadt is Pension
Vicus (tel 0851-931050, www.pension-vicus
.de) at Johann-Bergeler-Straße 2, with rooms
plus breakfast at €45/69/89 in high season,
including balcony rooms (€3 extra), kitchen
facilities and WLAN access. Prices sink from
mid-October to April. Take bus 3 or 4 from the
ZOB to Johann-Bergeler-Straße.
Haus Panorama (tel 0851-88199078,
www.panorama-passau.de) at Angerstraße
59 below the castle offers budget rooms with
shared facilities from €35/49 with family
rooms from €72 in high season but no breakfast
(a kitchen is available). There are good views
and terrace and garden doubles are available.
The DJH hostel Kultur-Jugendherberge
Passau (tel 0851-493780, jhpassau@djhbayern.de)
is in the north side of the castle at
Veste Oberhaus 125 (M-Su 7.30-22, €20.40).
Bus services (see Veste Oberhaus) are limited,
(M-F to 17.00, Sa-Su to 18.00), meaning offseason
or evening climbs. Consider using
Ferdinand-Wagner-Straße.
Innkai and the
Schaiblingsturm.
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