Eatdrink #56 November/December 2015 issue

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario 

№ 56 • November/December 2015 

www.eatdrink.ca 

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE 

FREE 

est. 2007 

Food Literacy and 

Growing 

Chefs! 

Special for the 

Holidays 

Our Annual 

Epicurean 

Gift Guide 

Wine • Beer • Travel • Theatre • Music 

& More! 

FEATURING 

The Little Inn of Bayfield 

Heritage and Modernity 

TOOK & Black George 

Remaking the Modern Restaurant 

“Off Season” Stratford 

A Focus on Good Taste 

ALSO: European Christmas Markets | Curbside: Modern Street Food Recipes | Paperwhites

Savouring the magic 

of STRATFORD 

Come enjoy Stratford’s heritage district wrapped in fresh cedar boughs 

and sparking lights as you wander the Victorian Christmas Trail 

collecting stocking stuffers along the way. 

Take an international gastronomic journey at dinner with the Stratford 

Chefs School students. Celebrate with friends at special tastings from 

our popular Scotch and Chocolate to Italian Cheese and Wine. 

And lots of Christmas family cheer awaits at our Victorian Christmas 

Market, Santa and Comet photos and holiday arts and crafts shows. Renew 

your holiday spirit with traditional Christmas concerts and strolling the 

Chocolate Trail. 

NOVEMBER 

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners, The Prune 

Fri-Sat Stratford Chefs School lunches, Rene’s Bistro (until Dec. 19) 

14 Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting, The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop 

14-15 Rotary Arts and Crafts Show, Stratford Rotary Complex 

21-22 Heritage Downtown Christmas Open House, 

Sunday: Christmas Market & Santa’s Parade of Lights 

DECEMBER 

4 Libertas Male Choir Concert, Knox Church 

5 A Community Messiah, St. Joseph’s Church 

19 Savour Stratford Scotch and Chocolate Tasting, 

Revival House 

19 A Choral Christmas, Stratford Symphony Orchestra 

For all our holiday events visitstratford.ca

WINTER EVENTS AT THE IDLEWYLD 

Spa Open House 

Wednesday, November 18th, 2015 | 5:00pm - 8:00pm 

Save the date for this year’s Spa Open House, featuring complimentary 

refreshments and hors d’oeuvres, treatment demonstrations and product 

promotions. Treat yourself, or start your holiday shopping early! 

December 31st, 2015 

New Year’s Dinner & Show 

Dinner Only | 5:00pm or 7:00pm | $75.00pp + HST & grats 

Dinner & Show | Cocktails - 8:00pm ~ Show - 8:30pm | $125.00pp + HST & grats 

Ring in the New Year with a Gourmet Dinner & Live Jazz! Featuring vocalist 

Rebecca Noelle, pianist John Noubarian and bassist Darryl Stacey. 

$50 

per person 

+tax & gratuity 

December 25th, 2015 

Christmas Buffet Dinner 

1st Sitting - 1:30pm | 2nd Sitting - 4:00pm | 3rd Sitting - 6:30pm 

Celebrate the holidays with friends and family this year at the Idlewyld 

Inn with our annual Christmas Dinner Buffet. Call 519.432.5554 to 

reserve your table. 

$40 

per person 

+tax & gratuity 

Our Famous Saturday Afternoon Tea 

November 21st & December 19th, 2015 | 2:00 - 4:00pm 

Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea, featuring an assortment 

of loose leaf teas, homemade scones, Devon cream and 

preserves, cucumber sandwiches, savory mini quiches, and 

mouth watering treats and sweets! 

36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8 | ph 519.432.5554 

www.idlewyldinn.com | IdlewyldInnAndSpa


• 


A Classic Celebration Destination 


Holidays 

Our Annual 

Epicurean 

Gift Guide 

& More! 

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music 

ALSO: 

FREE 

FEATURING 

Chocolate Barr’s 

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur 

Old East Village 

Food for Thought 

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better 

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy 


• 


THE HOLIDAY I SUE 

On The Thames 

A Classic Celebration Destination 


Holidays 

Our Annual 

Epicurean 

Gift Guide 

& More! 

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music 

ALSO: 

FREE 

FEATURING 

Chocolate Barr’s 

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur 

Old East Village 

Food for Thought 

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better 

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy 

eatdrink 

 

inc. 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

eatdrinkmag 

@eatdrinkmag 

Think Global. 

Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Copy Editor 

Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Dave Hammond, 

Gary Killops, Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery, 

Tracy Turlin, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden, 

Kym Wolfe, Rick Young 

Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

© 2015 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink 

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission 

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues 

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the 

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink 

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily 

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions 

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. 

eatdrink 

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE 

Tableside at 

Michael’s 

On The Thames 

eatdrink 

Tableside at 

Michael’s 

eatdrink.ca 

Read every issue online, 

no matter which device you prefer. 

Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues 

Plus! 

New Stories Only Online 

Plus! 

OUR COVER 

Andrew Fleet, Executive 

Director of Growing Chefs! 

Ontario, stands with City 

of London Mayor Matt 

Brown on the Mayor’s Office 

outdoor balcony. 

Photo courtesy of Matt Brown 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm 

Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight • Fri/Sat 11am–1am

notes from the publisher 

The Gifts of Time and Experiences 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

It’s the most wonderful time of the year! 

If you disagree with that statement, we 

hope we will have changed your mind 

by the time you put down this issue. Our 

cover story is on theme, in that Growing Chefs! 

is all about talented professionals helping a 

new generation to appreciate food, in every 

way. We are happy to celebrate that. 

Our annual Epicurean Gift Guide is full 

of unique items that we’re sure you’ll enjoy 

giving and that will be warmly received. Also 

keep in mind that all of “our sponsors” offer 

gift certificates. The experience of dining 

out is a wonderful present, one that fosters 

togetherness and a sense of well-being — 

what the holidays are truly for. 

We explore the recent remaking of two 

of London’s stellar restaurants — and 

Destination for the food lover 

Enjoy your holiday season 

around the table. 

we’re excited about their changes. The vital 

culinary scene in “off season” Stratford is 

the focus of our Road Trip column, and 

we also visit The Little Inn of Bayfield and 

travel to the Christmas Markets in Europe. 

Our libation experts offer suggestions for 

seasonal beers and bubbly, and we also 

have a book for tea drinkers. Holiday music 

abounds, and a live performance is the 

best way to enjoy it. Our local theatres are 

likewise ready to reach your heart “up close 

and personal.” Tickets make a great gift. 

While we don’t completely frown upon 

overindulgence here, we’re hoping you see 

“more quality” rather than “just more” as 

your goal for this holiday season. Cheers! 

Edgy. Fresh. Contemporary. 

London’s Newest Art Gallery with a Unique Gift Shop 

Awesome, quirky and cool gifts from top-rated artists and 

designer brands. We’ve hand-selected each product we sell 

because we know it’s going to be something you’ll love. 

Canadian and local artists, humorous greeting cards and books, 

colouring books, pottery, glass, wood, metal, ceramic, baby gifts, 

paintings, photography, jewelry and much much more! 

Unique Art & Gifts 

Licensed Retailer 

for Sid Dickens 

115 King Street, London, ON 

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335 

www.rustygate.ca 

524 Adelaide St. N. (at Princess), London 519-434-1838

contents ISSUE № 56 

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 

8 

12 

15 

22 

34 

56 

58 

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE 

8 Food Literacy and Growing Chefs! 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

RESTAURANTS 

12 The Little Inn of Bayfield: Heritage and Modernity 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

18 TOOK and Black George: Remaking the Modern Restaurant 


CULINARY RETAIL 

15 The 2015 Eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide 

By THE EDITORS 

IN THE GARDEN 

22 Paperwhites 

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN 

ROAD TRIPS 

24 “Off Season” Stratford: A Focus on Good Taste 

By KYM WOLFE 

TRAVEL 

34 The Christmas Markets of Europe 

By CLAUDIA VIANI 

NEW & NOTABLE 

37 The BUZZ 

WINE 

46 Food & Wine & Bubbles — It’s That Time of Year! 

By GARY KILLOPS 

BEER MATTERS 

48 A Cool Weather Wrap-Up, and Some Gift Ideas! 

By THE MALT MONK 

THEATRE 

51 On the Boards: Holiday Traditions, New and Old 

By RICK YOUNG 

MUSIC 

54 Sound Bites: Wicked Witches and Sugar Plum Fairies 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

BOOKS 

56 The Tea Book by Linda Gaylard 

Review by DARIN COOK 

COOKBOOKS 

58 Curbside: Modern Street Food by Adam Hynam-Smith 

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

THE LIGHTER SIDE 

62 Breaking Bread 

By KYM WOLFE 

37 

15 

THE BUZZ 

48

culture 

community live music 

festivals 

theatre 

heritage 

fine dining 

hockey games 

shop local 

Richmond Row 

farmers’ markets 

DISCOVER 

DOWNTOWN 

LONDON 

celebration 

Shop, Dine, and Discover 

November 26-28, 2015 

www.downtownlondon.ca

8 www.eatdrink.ca 

№ 56 | November/December 2015 

food writer at large 

Food Literacy and Growing Chefs! 


Food literacy, when taken literally, 

means a person’s ability to 

correctly read food labels and 

Canada’s Food Guide and the 

aptitude to comprehend basic nutrition 

well enough to apply that knowledge 

to food preparation. Food literacy also 

includes understanding how food is grown 

and produced, where it originates, how 

production affects the environment and who 

has access to what types of foods. 

The need to introduce food into school life 

is the most compelling at the primary level, 

when children are just starting to establish 

food preferences, make independent choices 

and influence their friends. Growing Chefs! 

was conceived in Vancouver B.C. by Chef 

Merri Schwartz in 2006, as she identified a 

need to articulate the story of the food we eat. 

Believing in greater engagement between 

chefs, farmers and the general public, she 

set out to educate children, families, and 

community members about nutrition, 

sustainability and healthy food systems. 

Schwartz achieved this by providing programs, 

seminars, and workshops in classrooms to 

promote local and healthy eating. 

After working with Schwartz and recognizing 

the influence that Growing Chefs! 

was having in Vancouver, Andrew Fleet was 

inspired to launch the program when he 

returned to London, Ontario. Consequently, 

The Growing Chefs! Ontario Classroom 

Gardening Project was established in the 

spring of 2008 at Tecumseh Public School. 

Fleet is the Executive Director of Growing 

Chefs! Ontario. 

What was initially known as the Classroom 

Gardening Project has been redesigned as 

a full-school project. The Growing Chefs! 

team visits every class in each partner school 

allowing individual schools to 

contribute time and effort into 

the coordination piece of the 

programming. With this model, 

Growing Chefs! is able to reach 

three times the number of 

elementary students annually, 

that’s 2,600 students up from 800. 

“Kids are well educated in our 

school system on health and they 

know they need to be making 

healthy choices but we don’t show 

them how to actually do that,” 

Fleet explains. “That’s the Growing 

Chefs! philosophy — you give kids 

a chance to cook real food with 

real flavour with a real chef.” 

This year Growing Chefs! hired 

Katherine Puzara as the lead chef 

Students at the Montessori Academy of 

London enjoy lunch — Growing Chefs style!


for the elementary school project, Fresh 

Food Frenzy, and Growing Communities. 

Puzara has helped to redesign and expand the 

workshops and lesson plans, while working to 

challenge the perceived limitations of children 

and youth in the kitchen. The program 

welcomes children from public schools to the 

Covent Garden Market where they are given a 

list of ingredients to go and find in the outdoor 

farmers’ market. Afterwards they go upstairs to 

the Market Kitchen and prepare a healthy and 

seasonal meal. 

The Beet Café often pops up at local events and festivals 

— part of a skill-building program for youth. 

Photo courtesy of Anna Carroll 

“The experience teaches the children the 

difference between a farmers’ market and a 

grocery store, and we get to explore concepts 

with the kids such as why it is important to eat 

locally, and what are heirloom vegetables,” 

says Puzara. “In the older grades seven and 

eight we have the children doing everything 

possible from working on knife skills, mise en 

place, working clean, and plating and serving 

skills. It is a real accomplishment when they 

leave; they really take away some amazing 

practical life skills.” 

Chris Meloche, Executive Chef, The Beet 

Café program, has been a stalwart volunteer 

since 2008 and was hired full-time to run the 

program. The Beet is an educational, skillbuilding 

program for youth with a focus on 

FESTIVAL OF TREES 

November 26–28 Kick off the holiday season at this 

fun, family-friendly event. Specially decorated trees and 

wreaths will be taken home by lucky winners in support of 

the Ontario Lung Association. Festival highlights include: 

Santa’s Secret Shoppe Thurs, Nov. 26–Sun Nov. 

29 (8am–6pm daily) On the Upper Level, The Secret 

Santa Shoppe is open for children and adults to purchase 

a variety of quality gifts for family and friends. Each item 

is $5 or less. Only children at heart are permitted in the 

store! Each purchase is kept secret by volunteer elves with 

complimentary gift-wrapping! 

Soupendous Lunch Fri, Nov. 27, (11:30 am–2 pm) 

Local Market venders compete for Best Soup. Event-goers 

can taste competing soups and help judges pick winners — 

and enjoy entertainment and other fun for $5. 

Breakfast with Santa Sat, Nov. 28 (9:30 am–2 pm) 

Enjoy a hot breakfast with Santa and his 

elves in the food court. Tickets are $5 

each and include a pancake breakfast 

and a special gift from Santa. 

Photos with Santa 

Sat, Nov. 28 (10 am–2 pm) 

Photos will be available 

during breakfast for 

children of all ages for $5. 

The Kids Corner 

Sat, Nov. 28 (8 am–6 pm) 

Located near “Santa’s Secret Shoppe.” Children can create 

one of the many holiday-themed crafts with their parents. 

For further info: www.on.lung.ca/festivaloftreeslondon 

FAMILY CHRISTMAS DAY 

Saturday, Dec. 12, 10 am–1 pm 

Upstairs On the Mezzanine, get in the Christmas spirit with 

festive entertainment and tasty treats provided by our 

indoor vendors — FREE! 

MARKET HOURS: MON to THURS: 8am–6pm 

FRI: 8am–7:30pm | SAT: 8am–6pm | SUN: 11am–4pm



healthy food preparation, hospitality 

and business development. Led by 

some of London’s foremost chefs, 

and Growing Chefs!’ youth staff 

prepare delicious healthy food for 

school hot lunch programs, and 

make appearances at festivals, all the 

while learning invaluable life skills. 

Projects Coordinator Sunni Vann 

has been at the heart of everything 

at Growing Chefs! this year, from 

communications, coordination, and 

working on front lines. 

London Waldorf School is running 

licensed toddler and preschool 

programs for the first time this year. 

In order to comply with the new 

licensing, the school is required 

to serve hot lunches to these two 

groups of very small children. “We 

immediately thought of Growing 

Chefs! to partner with on this project 

because we are both committed to the same 

principles of providing nourishing, quality 

experiences for young children. The thought 

of being able to provide these children with 

local, thoughtful, scratch-made food was one 

we really couldn’t compromise on,” explains 

Ruth Baer, Administrative Chair, London 

Waldorf School. 

The Montessori Academy of London has 

worked with Growing Chefs! since 2008, 

by using their students as test subjects for 

their School program at all ages. “So when 

we got thinking about providing a lunch 

program that was not only nutritious, but 

had community, educational and ethical 

impacts I contacted Andrew Fleet almost 

two years ago, to figure out if we could 

partner on this,” says Margaret Whitley, 

Executive Director, Montessori Academy 

of London. “Our hope was by doing 

this, Growing Chefs! would further their 

mission, our students would have a lunch 

experience that is completely integrated 

into our Montessori approach, and there are 

additional ripple effects both short term and 

long term for the whole community.” 

The Child Care and Early Years Act, 2014 

(CCEYA) came into effect on August 31, 2015, 

establishing new rules governing child care 

in Ontario. “[This] was a catalyst … I think our 

implementation and the tremendous work 

Growing Chefs! educates children and youth 

about food, from simple to sophisticated. 

London Mayor Matt Brown, Chef Katherine Puzara, the lead chef for 

Growing Chefs! school and community programming, and Andrew 

Fleet (Executive Director, Growing Chefs! Ontario) at Covent Garden 

Market in October. Photo credit Jason Ménard, Digital Echidna 

Growing Chefs! and The Beet Café program 

is doing in re-shaping lunch programs 

[provides] models that could change a 

generation, in how they develop their senses, 

cultural awareness and economic impact 

of local food choices,” states Whitley. “Not 

only do we embrace the menus that Growing 

Chefs! are providing, all of our children (18 

months to six years) are setting the tables, 

serving each other using fragile place settings 

and serving dishes. Our lunches support

№ 56 | November/December 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 11 

practical life skills, sensorial education, 

development of grace and courtesy around 

meal time and are a true celebration of 

community many days in our classroom. As 

a long-time educator I think we completely 

underestimate the potential of our children 

around learning to try new foods and helping 

to educate their palates”. 

Over the years, a who’s who of local 

chefs have participated in the Growing 

Chefs! program. The chefs include Andrew 

Wolwowicz from The Springs Restaurant, 

who has been on the Board of Directors 

of Growing Chefs! since 2010, Jeff Fortner 

of The River Room, Kim Sutherland of 

Budweiser Gardens, Paul Harding, Scott 

Newman and Jason Schubert of The Only 

On King, Nancy Abra of From My Garden, 

Dani Murphy of The Root Cellar, Kris Pageau 

formerly of The London Hunt Club, Shauna 

Stewart formerly of The London Club, 

Shane Jones of The Springs Restaurant, 

Wade Fitzgerald of Fanshawe College, Mark 

Kitching from Waldo’s on King, Ryan Irwin 

of Fellini’s in Stratford, Yoda Olinyk of Yoda’s 

Private Catering, Yam Gurung of Momo’s 

at the Market, Patrick Dunham of Patrick’s 

Beans, Amanda Jeffrey of London Hunt Club 

and Fanshawe College, Chris Chitty formerly 

of Delta Armouries, Aaron Cowell of The 

Only On King and The Early Bird, Ellen 

Lacroix of the Great Canadian Superstore, 

Vicci Coughlin of the Telegraph House, 

Dan Garlough of Crossings Pub, Laura Wall 

of Petit Paris, Tracy Little of The Springs 

Restaurant, Arif Kalid of Dolcetto Restaurant 

and Ted Sinasac of Sisters of St. Joseph, chefs 

David Rossen, Brian Magee, Kent Van Dyk 

and Carolyn Nesbitt-Larking and culinary 

farmer Paul Spence of Chatham-Kent Table, 

to name a few. 

Based on the idea that education can 

alter behavior, Growing Chefs! and its 

many volunteers have made tremendous 

strides by changing the way many children 

perceive food and encouraging them to 

become excited about nutritious and 

healthy food choices. 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at 

Large. 

FRESH gift ideas yule love 

Select from over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics. 

Sample the freshest oils from across the globe, paired with savoury 

white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy. 

Personally bottled to suit your individual taste. 

Gift 

Cards 

Custom 

Gift Baskets 

Sample 

Packs 

Corporate 

Gifts 

Stocking 

Stuffers 

The 

Pristine 

live 

Tasting Bar 

462 Cheapside Street @ Maitland | London | 519-433-4444 

www.thepristineolive.ca



restaurants 


Heritage merges with culinary modernity 

By JANE ANTONIAK | photography by BRUCE FYFE 

There’s a new angle at the historic 

Little Inn in Bayfield, Ontario. While 

the bones of the 1800s building still 

stand strong (albeit a bit delightfully 

creaky and slanted in places), the Inn now 

offers two dining choices, upgraded rooms, 

a beautifully renovated kitchen and a new 

front desk area, under the ownership of 

Joanne Oliver, assisted by her team of 

seasoned hospitality professionals. 

Leading the charge of positive change is 

Michael Potters. Potters is known in Toronto 

and Prince Edward County culinary circles for 

his 20-plus years as a farm-to-table champion 

at places such as Harvest in Picton (rated Top 

Ten in Canada by enRoute magazine 2006) 

and Accolade at the Crown Plaza in Toronto. 

He also was host of a W Network series called 

Chef Worthy which ran until 2010. While 

Potters has hung up his apron, his heart 

remains in the kitchen. At the Little Inn he 

helped to oversee the quarter-million-dollar 

renovation and has given guidance to Chef 

Jamie Crosby. Potters has taken on the role of 

General Manager after deciding to remain in 

Bayfield to raise his daughter. 

While it might be a bit daunting for Crosby 

to have Potters keeping an eye on everything 

Innkeeper Joanne Oliver, with her son, and 

bar manager of The Little Inn, Kyle Oliver. 

from perfect plating on the newly purchased 

tableware, to producing themed events 

including a Dinner Jazz series, the young chef 

is expertly producing a wide variety 

of complex menu items for two types 

of dining experiences: traditional 

fine dining in The Willow Room and 

casual gastropub service in the Fourin-Hand 

taproom. Crosby’s dishes 

include fresh dumplings, chorizo 

Scotch eggs, Lake Huron pickerel, 

dry-aged steaks, juniper-spiced 

duck, and melt-in-your-mouth wild 

sockeye salmon. His lemon ricotta 

pancakes with strawberry compote 

and Metzger bacon might be the 

best breakfast you can get in Huron 

The Little Inn’s charming streetscape

№ 55 | September/October 2015 

county. Crosby interned in Denmark at 

Noma (ranked best restaurant in the world 

in 2014, and a perennial top contender for 

that title). He also interned with Canadian 

icon Michael Stadtländer in 2013, “where I 

lived in a trailer in this sheep field to scare 

away coyotes,” he says, laughing. Now, 

he returns to the Little Inn where he first 

worked as a teenager under Joseph Watters. 

“That was like learning to run before I could 

walk,” he recalls. 

The 28-seat taproom is located in what 

used to be the parlour at the Inn. Guests 

can enjoy a more casual meal and some 

creative cocktails prepared by Oliver’s son, 

Kyle. For the holiday season he has created 

“The Grinch” martini — melon liquor 

provides the perfect shade of lime green. 

There are 12 taps with eight local craft beers 

on offer, kept cool through a newly installed 

custom keg system with insulated hoses. 

Gone is the 1980’s wallpaper, but the classic 

fireplace remains, as does a small “snug” in 

the back of the bar area and a TV room for 

sports viewing. Every Sunday at 4 p.m. the 

taproom offers “buck-a-shuck Sunday’s” — 

oysters on the half shell for a loonie each. 

“It’s been great to meet so many of 

the long-time, returning, guests who 

have complimented us on what we have 

done” says Joanne Oliver. “My name is 

on the title of the Inn but this building 

belongs to Bayfield. Bayfield has done a 

wonderful thing in preserving heritage. 

We won’t have a Starbucks on the corner,” 

she says proudly. Well, the village doesn’t 

Trust... 

Taste... 

Roasts and 

Hams for the 

Holidays 

Comfort 

Food 

Specialties 

Gift Certificates + 

Seasonal Gift Baskets 

Available! 

Quality... 

Christmas 

Themed 

Salamis 

Chef Michael Potters (right), now The Little Inn’s 

General Manager, helped with the kitchen renovations 

and has given some guidance to Chef Jamie Crosby 

(left), who now runs the kitchen. 

Open six days a week. 

Hensall, Ontario 

Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London. 

Available in London at 

The Village Meat Shop 

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market 

on Saturdays! 

www.metzgermeats.com 

519-262-3130 

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry 

Specialty European Meat Products



can personally vouch 

for the locally roasted 

Coastal Coffee served 

in house. 

Beyond cocktails, 

beer and coffee is the 

wine list, compiled by 

master sommelier/ 

wine consultant John 

Szabo. It was nice 

to have a glass of 

Keint-He pinot noir 

from Prince Edward 

County — obviously 

another Potters touch. 

Guests of the inn are treated to kind attention 

throughout their stay by restaurant manager Tim 

Staines. Born and 

raised in London, 

Staines returned 

home from many 

years of work in 

exceptional Toronto 

restaurants to be 

closer to his family. 

After bumping into 

Potters in London 

(they both are fans 

of Black George, on 

Talbot Street) Staines 

joined the Little Inn 

team. He clearly 

delights in his work 

and his genuine 

concern for guest 

service is apparent. 

The 16 guest rooms feature 

new flooring, luxurious linens, 

new televisions (with Netflix), 

and some have fireplaces. Clearly, the place is 

made for a get-away. Many clients return annually. 

Lake Huron is steps away with public beach access 

and year-round viewing of the famous sunsets 

from the benches in Pioneer Park. 

Still, it is the talent of Chef Crosby that remains 

in mind after a visit. “I’m finding a voice now,” 

he says modestly, after much prodding, while 

explaining how his dishes are evolving with him. 

The spectacular pumpkin ravioli, and the sweetness 

of perfection in his classic mille-feuille, have created 

memories that will propel desire for a return visit. 

The Little Inn offers various packages over the 

holiday season, with special menus for Christmas 

Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. The Inn is 

open the remainder of the year, but will close for 

most of January. 

Clockwise from top left: Seasonally-coloured cocktails in The Taproom, a 

Negroni and a Grinch Martini; Juniper-Spiced Duck with citrus reduction; 

Pumpkin Ravioli with wild mushrooms; Wild Sockeye Salmon with puffed 

wild rice; Chef Jamie Crosby with a festive Raspberry Mille-Feuille. 


26 Main Street North, Bayfield 

1-800-565-2611 

www.littleinn.com 

the four-in-hand taproom: 

11–11 daily 

the willow room: 8–10:30 am; 

11:30–2:30; 5:30–9 pm daily 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink. 

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at 

King’s University College, London. 

BRUCE FYFE regularly contributes photos to eatdrink. 

He is Librarian, Weldon Library, Western University.

culinary retail 

The eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide 

Suggestions for the Foodies in Your Life 

It really IS better to give than to receive 

when you find the perfect gift that is 

warmly received, and you haven't felt 

caught up in shopping mall madness. 

To help you achieve this end, we've polled 

a fine range of independent retailers — the 

real shopping experts — for suggestions 

for the foodies in your life. Whether you're 

looking for a big present for someone close 

to your heart, or a small gift for a hostess or 

your friend at work, here are some new as 

well as tried-and-true suggestions from the 

experts. Happy Shopping! 

These handcrafted charcuterie boards 

come from Once Upon A Tree, a 

Kitchener company committed 

to using local and sustainably 

harvested wood. They 

come in walnut or cherry, 

and feature a “live edge” that 

makes each one unique. They 

work as a cutting board, but offer 

a stylish way to serve charcuterie, 

crostini or pizza. $59.99 at Jill’s Table 

• 115 King St, London • www.jillstable.ca 

• 519-645-1335 

Consumable gifts are always appreciated, 

especially when they satisfy a sweet tooth! 

Chocolate Barr’s offers a customized 

Stackable Gift Basket — items can be 

substituted or more can be added. A 

popular choice includes their renowned 

1-Pound 

Assorted 

Chocolates, 

a ½-Pound 

of mixed 

milk and 

dark 

chocolate 

Minties, 

and a 

½-Pound 

of Almond Butter Crunch. $42.99 as shown, at 

Chocolate Barr’s Candies • 55 George St W, Stratford 

• www.chocolatebarrs.com • 519-272-2828 

As seen on Dragon’s Den, the 

artisans at Wendell Estate carefully 

select the bees in their 

apiaries. The result is as white 

as snow. This creamed, raw, 

Canadian prairie honey has a 

smooth, exquisite tex ture and 

a world-class taste profile. Wendell Estate 

Honey is both decadent and delicious. $18 for 

a 340g jar as shown, at Featherfields • 1570 Hyde Park 

Rd, London • www.featherfields.com • 519-474-1165 

Perfect for the coffee lover, the Porlex Mini- 

Hand Grinder slips inside the Aeropress 

Coffee Maker, creating the perfect travel 

coffee solution. The grinder’s ceramic burrs 

won’t rust, and stay sharper than metal 

burrs. Easy to adjust, from 

Turkish Grind to French 

Press. Made in Japan. $113 as 

shown, at Locomotive Espresso 

• 408 Pall Mall St, London 

• www.locomotive 

espresso.com 

• 519-601-3896 

On the beach, enjoying a sunset over Lake Huron


The Zippy Easy Popcorn Maker 

is a totally new snack-making 

experience that allows you the 

creative freedom to invent your 

own snack recipes. Designed to 

be fun and easy, you will impress 

your friends with everything 

from fluffy popcorn creations to 

sweet or savory roasted nuts and snacks. 

Think Chili Lime Cilantro Popcorn, Almond 

Cherry Granola Popcorn or Toasted Coconut 

Cashews. Zippy uses less oil and lets you 


choose the ingredients for healthier, happier 

snacking. 4-Quart $59.95, 5.5-Quart $69.95 at 

Bradshaws • 129 Ontario St, Stratford • 

www.bradshawscanada.com • 519-271-6283 

Whether you are buying for friends, family, or corporate events, 

an independent retailer such as Olive~Me & Co. can help 

you create unique and delicious gifts and gift baskets. With 

products ranging from award winning Olive Oils (like Persian 

Lime and Roasted Garlic) and Balsamic Vinegars (like Fig and 

White Cranberry Pear) in a variety of sizes and flavours, gift 

certificates and sample packs, to a tasty selection of tapenades, 

mustards, dipping oils and spreads, they can help you come up 

with the perfect gift idea! Price ranges to suit every budget,from 

as low as $6. $89.99 as shown, at Olive-Me & Co • 1570 Hyde Park Rd, 

London • www.olivemeco.com • 519-471-6548 

Combining quality and functionality 

in a beautiful classic design, Gastrolux 

BIOTAN Non-Stick Cookware is ideal for 

saving energy and making healthier meals. 

The new BIOTAN non-stick cooking surface 

lets you cook with little-to-no oil while still 

keeping food from sticking. It’s also longlasting 

and safe because it’s made from biominerals 

with no dangerous chemicals such 

as PFOA and PFOS. Gastrolux cookware 

is made in Denmark and suitable for any 

cooktop, including induction, and for home 

or professional use. Starting at $140, the entire 

Gastrolux line is on sale at 25% off for the holidays at 

Eurohome Appliances • 40550 Amberly Rd, Wingham • 

www.eurohomes.net • 1-877-543-2437 

These petite Le Creuset Espresso Mugs will inject a pop of colour 

into any kitchen. They are versatile too; perfect for espresso, 

they also work beautifully for individual desserts. The 

durable enamelled surface resists staining, 

chipping and cracking, and is easy 

to clean. Providing a totally hygienic 

surface, it will not absorb odours 

or flavours. Microwave, freezer and 

dishwasher safe. The set of six is even on 

promo for Christmas. $49.99 (regularly $120) at 

Kiss the Cook • 551 Richmond St, London • 

www.kissthecookonline.com • 519-850-5477


Pottery serving, storage 

SD 

and display pieces 

combine form, function 

and artistry in unique 

EW 

ways. Literally infused 

WD 

with the creative and 

personal touch of the 

potter, each piece stands 

as a work of art that also 

serves a practical purpose. Handmade items from 

local artisans add an extra element of interest and 

connectivity to this ancient art. Three local potters 

are represented in this grouping, with just one item 

identified to indicate their style. SHERRY DRESSER (SD) 

pottery Raku bird $26, large plate $80, Muskoka plate and 

bowl set $95, Muskoka mugs $24, turquoise wine cups $21; 

WANDA DENSMORE (WD) pottery mugs $26, small plates $22, 

3-piece tray set $89, largebowl $79, medium bowl $49; 

EARTH WORKS (EW) pottery wine/water jug $88, alkaline 

producing wine cups $22, mushroom keepers $44/36, garlic 

keepers $35/28 at The Rusty Gate • 524 Adelaide St N, 

Handmade in Ontario by nina nina 

London • www.rustygate.ca • 519-434-1838 

celestina, these flax linen bread bags will 

keep your loaf of crusty bread fresh better, 

and a bit longer, than paper or plastic 

(which tends to make the crust too dry or 

too damp). They’re made from a tough, 

sustainable 100% pre-washed, pre-shrunk 

linen that will get softer with each wash, 

and with proper care can last a lifetime. In 

three sizes for all your odd shaped loaves. 

Available mid-November. $24.99 at Decorator’s 

Choice Fabrics • 1560 Hyde Park Rd, London • 

www.decoratorschoicefabrics.com • 519 641 2916 

The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar has come up 

with a charming way to help customers try 

their products (over 60 flavours of oils and 

balsamics!). Owner Jamie Griffiths has created 

six unique Sample Pack Combinations, 

containing many of his most popular items. 

Each sample pack holds six individually 

labeled, 60ml bottles, enclosed in a customdesigned 

gift box. Perfect for people who wish 

to try a little bit of everything! $30 (Gourmet Pack 

$34) at The Pristine Olive • 462 Cheapside St, London • 

www.thepristineolive.com • 519-433-4444 

Here’s an idea for combining your 

shopping with lunch or dinner 

overlooking Rondeau Bay on the 

shores of Lake Erie, just off Highway 

3. Bayside Brewing Company has a 

number of new and exciting Christmas 

gift ideas for beer lovers. Choose an 

assorted sampler beer pack of 8 “tall 

boy” cans, or wrap up a favourite growler 

and a Bayside glass to quaff it with. Each 

Holiday Gift Pack is $25. Bayside also 

offers a line of sweatshirts, T-shirts, hats, 

sweatpants and more. Open daily from 

12 noon, and dining reservations are 

recommended. Bayside Brewing Company • 

970 Ross Lane, Erieau • www.baysidebrewing.com 

• 519.676.8888 

Happy Holidays and Happy Shopping!



eatblackgeorge 

with the fresh approach to casual late night 

dining. 

TOOK’s dinner service focuses on a 

well-chosen but limited selection of bigger 

plates and an assortment of smaller tapasrestaurants 

Resto Redux: Black George & TOOK 

London Remakes of the Modern Ontario Restaurant 


Fine dining isn’t disappearing. It is 

transforming into something fresh, 

as self-determining restaurateurs 

just keep changing and redefining 

it with new concepts and interactive 

experiences. But what is driving the change? 

As independent restaurant concepts 

continue to evolve, changing demand 

creates the need for new ways to 

enhance the customer experience. 

Restaurants that continue to grow 

and even prosper are usually the 

ones that are most willing and 

readily able to adapt to changing 

trends. Today’s modern restaurants 

are about feasting, sharing, authenticity, 

quality ingredients and celebrating the craft 

and tradition of farmers, chefs, winemakers 

and brewers. We are living in an age when 

pioneering chefs wield unprecedented 

influence, and some of the 

most innovative among 

them are finding original 

ways to utilize unfamiliar 

349 Talbot Street 

and largely neglected ingredients. 519.672.5862 

blackgeorge.ca 

To stay at the top of their game savvy 

restaurateurs revamp and rethink their whole 

approach to their restaurant on a continuing 

basis. This is the story of two independent 

restaurants with big reputations on a similar 

trajectory. On the surface they may seem 

dissimilar. Yet they have a lot in common, 

appealing to both food enthusiasts and 

connoisseurs who enjoy participating in their 

own culinary experiences. 

The Only On King recently went through 

a brief refurbishment and relaunched 

under the acronym TOOK. The relaunch 

included a makeover, rebranding, unveiling 

new menus, expanding the business hours, 

offering lunch Tuesday through Friday, and 

adding take-away options including coffee 

and fresh pastries. The updated interior is 

The Only On King has relaunched as TOOK 

BLACK GEORGE 

HOURS: 

Tue - Sat 

5:30 - Close 

striking with lots of farm-to-table touches 

and handcrafted accents by local artisans. 

TOOK, with its fully realized farm-to-table 

philosophy, dedicated acknowledgement of 

the local terroir and support of local farmers 

and producers, remains in the vanguard of 

the righteous modern Ontario restaurant. 

Chef/owner Paul Harding brings 

many years of experience to this 

new venture. His commitment to 

using locally sourced ingredients 

on his menu hasn’t changed and 

the restaurant continues to serve 

some of its classic signature dishes. 

Chef is known for traditional farmstead 

practices such as pickling, brining, curing and 

ageing. There are antipasto, truffles, organic 

beef, organic pork, black cod and sheep’s milk 

ricotta together with more modest ingredients 

that are conferred equal reverence, and 

multi-cultural culinary 

treatments. TOOK is 

now open late into 

the evening with an 

expanded cocktail and beer menu to coincide


Owner/Chef Paul Harding remains committed to 

using locally-sourced ingredients, but the menu, and 

the hours, have expanded at TOOK. (Above Right) 

Deconstructed Apple Pie Panna Cotta and (Below Right) 

salty and spicy roasted peanuts and pecans 

style offerings divided into categories which 

include snacks, soil, sea, land and sweet 

stuff. This menu style proves to be infinitely 

versatile by accommodating almost every 

culinary tradition and the shareable plates 

allow diners to eat communally and sample 

a variety of items. It also allows diners the 

opportunity to curate their own tasting 

experience, either by ordering a selection of 

dishes to share, or enjoying their appetizers 

as entrées and vice versa. 

Some of the recent menu items include 

sheep’s milk ricotta gundi (gnocchi-like 

dumplings) with red sauce and fresh 

basil; miso marinated black cod with 

pickled mushrooms and a kimchi burger 

with organic pork and beef patty with 

cilantro lime mayo. These types of modern 

menus remain important tools for chefs to 

communicate their ethos to their customers. 

The other relaunch in downtown London 

is an updated, re-imagined Kantina — which 

has, after more than five years, evolved and 

morphed into Black George. The vibe at 

Black George is hip and edgy while the food 

is modern, rustic and playful. Owner Miljan 

Karac built the former Kantina’s stellar 

reputation on innovative Balkan-inspired 

cuisine, prepared from scratch with farm-totable 

ideals. 

The newly refurbished space has a clean, 

minimal style with whitewashed bricks and 

higher ceilings with dangling red cords and 

bare bulbs. The updated interior is even 

more casual, with less formal service than 

the former incarnation. It is the natural 

evolution and maturing of Karac as an 

innovator and restaurateur. 

Black George similarly showcases original 

cuisine with small, shareable plates — 

tapas-style. In order to fully experience the 

concept, your dishes are served as they are 

prepared, with understated confidence by 

Chef Courtney Noble. The Stratford Chef 

School alumna runs a focused kitchen and 

all items are made in-house and bear her 

stamp. Her personalized dishes underscore 

a passion for big flavours and a respect for 

farm fresh, seasonally appropriate foods. 

The restaurant’s most popular dish, and 

its namesake, comes with its own symbolic 

narrative. Legend has it when Serbia was 

under Soviet rule a high ranking official 

visited a local restaurant and ordered 

Chicken Kiev. The chef dared not disappoint 

but didn’t have all the ingredients to prepare 

the dish. Instead, he created a rolled, fried 

schnitzel and called it the Karadjordje (Black 

George) after the first elected leader of the 

First Serbian Uprising that liberated Serbia 

from the Ottoman Empire, and who became 

a national hero. 

On a recent visit, the deep-fried Black 

George arrived at the table cut in half, with

its creamy filling oozing out onto the plate. I 

tasted it and admired how the combination 

of flavours — the buttery clotted cream-like 

kaymak, the tenderized pork and the melt-inyour-mouth 

ham blend so perfectly. The dish 

was served with roasted potatoes, baby heirloom 

carrots and cubes of knobby kohlrabi, 

that suddenly ubiquitous cultivar of cabbage. 

The new menu combines old favourites 

with some inspired recent additions. We 

love the house-made duck sausage with kale 

pesto and risotto. In Noble’s hands, warm 

feta and lemon dip with olive oil and chickpea 

flatbread tastes like a deconstructed 

version of the Greek fried cheese appetizer 

saganaki. An appetizer of kataifi-wrapped 

(phyllo pastry that looks like shredded 

wheat) tiger shrimp with cocktail sauce and 

avocado purée remains the perfect amalgam 

of flavours and textures. There is a chilled, 

layered and luxurious lemon meringue parfait 

served in a mason jar which has both 

sweet and savoury components. The salted 

caramel pot au crème becomes a hedonistic 

experience after the first spoonful. 

Black George and TOOK are independent 

businesses that thrive on creativity, 

dedication and commitment enhanced 

by well-honed and sophisticated culinary 

points of view. Both restaurants continue 

to be meccas for serious food enthusiasts. 

Karac and Harding seem to be directing their 

attention to growing successful, sustainable 

businesses — based on renewed strategies 

(Top Left) The restaurant’s signature dish, Black George 

Schnitzel; (Bottom Left) A typical sample of Black 

George cuisine, with original dishes on shareable plates 

— tapas style; (Right) An interior view from the bar 

area into the bright and open main dining room. 

for winning customers by staying on top of 

evolving trends while remaining true to their 

strengths and culinary philosophies. 

Many new restaurant concepts are 

shedding everything that is superfluous 

and ingrained about guests’ fine dining 

perceptions. What’s left is understated 

and confident, genuinely hospitable and 

fueled with the life blood of culinary skill, 

craftsmanship and authenticity. 

Black George 

349 Talbot Street, London 

519-672-5862 

www.blackgeorge.ca 

tuesday–thursday: 5:30–9 pm 

friday & saturday: 5:30–10:30 pm 

Private bookings available sunday & monday 

TOOK (The Only On King) 

172 King Street,London 

519-936-2064 

www.theonlyonking.ca 

tuesday–thursday: 11 am–10 pm 

friday: 11 am–1 am; saturday: 5 pm–1 am 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and 

Writer at Large.

The heart of 

Downtown 

Strathroy 

Welcome to 

Strathroy! 

Just down the road ... 

35 km to London 

Chef/Owner Mark Graham 

offers a fresh, creative, 

locally-sourced menu 

NEW 

Winter 

Menu 

A Strathroy Tradition 

• Fabulous Sunday Brunch 

• Family Dinners 

• Fully Licensed by LLBO 

• Banquet & Wedding Packages Available 

• Take-Out & Delivery Available (ask for details) 

• Family Owned & Operated 

Private Meeting & Banquet Rooms 

for groups up to 100 

Warm Ambiance 

• Catering Available • 

New Member of 

Now Serving 

Sunday Brunch 

10am–2pm 

8 Boutique Suites 

28537 Centre Road, Strathroy 

just off Hwy 402 @ Hwy 81 & Second St. 

519-245-5400 

www.amys-restaurant.com 

Historic Post Office & Customs Building 

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500 

www.clocktower-inn.com



in the garden 

Pot Up Some Paperwhites This Fall 

They're not just for the holidays 

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN 

Beautiful, fresh, longlasting and 

versatile, paperwhites create a 

beautiful display for the holidays 

and the perfect distraction from 

winter. Each bulb produces at least three 

stems of gorgeous star-like flowerettes 

creating a wonderful show. They have 

become very popular in centrepieces, mantel 

displays or simply in the kitchen window. 

It is very rewarding and extremely easy to 

grow paperwhites indoors and they are the 

perfect gift. Simply package a few bulbs with a 

small bag of stones and you have an interesting, 

attractive, and inexpensive gift option. 

Children can have fun with this and learn at 

the same time. The whole experience takes 

six to eight weeks and it’s all very rewarding 

and a wonderful connection to nature. 

Paperwhites (Narcissus tazetta) are a 

variety of daffodil that are only grown indoors 

in our climate. The bright white flowers work 

as well for holiday decorating as they do 

through the winter to brighten your indoors. 

Paperwhites Style 

As the snow starts to fly or in the depth of 

winter, the experience of growing these 

beautiful flowers from bulb is really lovely at 

every stage. 

There is a great deal of creativity offered 

in potting them up as they only require 

moisture and some medium to grow in. The 

medium can be potting soil but paperwhites 

are more commonly grown in stones, glass 

beads, sea shells, marbles or aquarium 

gravel. The different “stones” offer a fun way 

to work in your style or colour choice — a 

natural look or red aquarium gravel for 

holiday mantel, you choose. 

Part of the fun of growing your own is 

selecting the container you pot them up in. 

It can be trendy, classic or chosen to suit 

your decor and can be made of anything 

that will hold water. If your container is 

Paperwhites 

Ziva 

opaque you only need decorative stones on 

the top, underneath can be less expensive 

pea stones. If you are using glass containers 

the transparency allows an appreciation for 

the growing roots and the featured stones or 

growing medium. Growing in glass is also 

the easiest way to monitor the water level. 

Tall glass vase designs like a “hurricane” 

make a great choice as they offer support for 

the flowers. 

Arrangements are best made with a 

minimum of three bulbs, and with seven 

or more it becomes quite stunning. It is 

recommended to plant using odd numbers 

for a single display, although a symmetrical 

arrangement using an even number of bulbs 

and containers provides a great effect.


How to Grow Paperwhites 

Selecting the bulbs: As when 

choosing a quality vegetable, the bulb 

should be checked before purchasing. 

The bulb should be firm, and the 

larger the better for bigger flowering. 

Kits are available but most include 

smaller bulbs, and it is recommended 

you open and check the bulbs before 

purchasing. Buying loose bulbs 

allows for easy inspection and often 

these bulbs are larger. Paperwhites 

are available at garden shops from 

October through December. 

Choose a container: Select waterproof 

containers to create your look. It is 

recommended that you always test the 

container first, as even glazed pottery 

can allow water to seep through. 

Potting up the bulbs: Fill the 

container to a minimum depth of two 

to three inches, with the medium of 

your choice. Place the bulbs, pointed end 

up, on the surface of this medium. Water 

to the top of the medium (so that it is just 

below the bulb). This moisture will stimulate 

the root development. 

Maintain the water level as the plant 

grows. The bulb should not touch the 

water, or you risk rot. Next, continue 

to add more medium to anchor the 

bulbs up to the widest part of the 

bulb. If you are using potting soil, it is 

recommended to fill with soil to near 

the top of the bulb. At this point you 

may use a more decorative stone or 

material and/or fresh moss, which 

will also give a nice finishing touch. 

Paperwhite bulbs potted in hurricane-style vases 

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own 

Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be 

found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, 

and at various gardening events around the region. 

Care: The arrangement should be 

placed in a dark place for two weeks 

to allow the roots to grow. If it is 

cooler, that would benefit the growth. 

From planting to flowering the time 

frame is four to six weeks. The flowers 

can last for another two to three 

weeks or longer in a cool location 

away from direct sunlight. 

A great way to help enjoy the indoors, 

paperwhites are a very cheery display 

any time before we see any sign of 

Spring! Pot some up! 

Be creative with the finishing touches!


road trips 

“Off-Season” Stratford 

A Focus on Good Taste 


SPONSORED BY 


It may be the end of another Stratford 

Festival season, which brought 

diners in droves to the city for prix 

fixe menus, but the city’s restaurant 

community continues to be open for 

business and not just for the locals. Stratford 

has been known for decades for setting the 

benchmark when it comes to dining, but 

until just a few years ago it wasn’t feasible 

for many of the restaurants to operate yearround. 

But that has changed. 

A full calendar of exhibitions and special 

culinary events, music programming, and 

lots of restaurants, cafés, food specialty shops, 

bakeries, farmers’ markets, epicurean treks, 

galleries, antique shops and a wide-ranging 

system of parks and recreation along the Avon 

The theatre is dark but Stratford’s culinary scene remains bright 

year round. Examples include Monforte on Wellington cheese 

selection and (above right) The Red Rabbit restaurant bar 

River means that there is plenty to do in 

Stratford during the off-season. 

Savour Stratford has had successes 

in steadily increasing the awareness 

of the many and diverse offerings 

of Stratford when the theatre-goers 

are gone. Programs featured under 

an expanded Savour Stratford brand 

include Stratford Chefs School 

dinners, tutored tastings and a series 

of self-guided culinary trails. 

Continued on page 26 ... 

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Continued from page 24 ... 

Paying homage to the rise of craft beer 

and the boom in bacon as a culinary trend, 

The Bacon and Ale Trail continues to be a 

great success. After all, Perth County pork is 

legendary. This is the home of the Ontario 

Pork Congress. The Stratford Chocolate trail 

showcases skilled chocolatiers and bakers 

that work in a city with a storied history in 

candy making. Boutique chocolate-makers 

include Chocolate Barr’s, Rheo Thompson 

and The Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory. 

Another well-liked tour is The Maple Trail, 

with maple-inspired stops with offerings 

that range from maple balsamic vinegar, to 

a maple-smoked bacon BLT, and, at Mercer 

Hall, a maple Manhattan. 

Stratford boasts many independent niche 

retailers and specialty services situated in 

its downtown late-Victorian streetscapes, 

and in the well-preserved commercial 

districts on Downie, Ontario and Wellington 

streets. There are a number of great bakeries 

including the Downie Street Bake House, 

which bakes artisanal premium breads 

— high quality, hand-crafted and free of 

artificial additives and preservatives — and 

bills itself as, “Really Good Bread from the 

Wrong Side of the Tracks.” 

The quaint tree-lined streets just north of 

the river are great for walking and sightseeing. 

Several of the stately heritage homes and 


Derek and Jacqueline Barr, hands-on 

owners of Chocolate Barr’s Candies. 

princely Victorian, Italianate and Second 

Empire edifices in Stratford are B&B’s. 

Visiting Bradshaws, a premier culinary 

retailer known for its holiday grandeur, is 

an annual Stratford shopping tradition. 

Operated by Jeremy and Carrie Wreford, the 

downtown retailer recently celebrated its 

120th anniversary and remains one of the 

country’s truly inimitable stores. 

This year the maturing restaurant 

community had a gastronomic rebirth and 

several restaurants were relaunched with 

plenty of fanfare — continuing to reinforce 

Stratford’s already impressive status as one 

of Ontario’s premier culinary getaways. 

One of the standout features of Stratford’s 

culinary scene is its laid back approach that 

unites restaurants and farms through food. 

There are so many exceptional restaurants in 

Stratford that it is impossible to recommend 

one or two. A short list includes Bijou, 

Rene’s Bistro, Restaurant at The Bruce, 

Mercer Hall, Sirkel Foods, Pazzo Taverna & 

Pizzera, Madelyn’s Diner, Keystone Alley, 

Down The Street Bar & Restaurant, Foster’s 

Inn and The Parlour Gastropub. These 

establishments remain open year-round. 

Chef Robert Rose’s Canadian Grub is one 

of few restaurants in the country serving 

exclusively Canadian grown and refined 

products. We also can’t resist Monforte 

Dairy’s 30 types of artisanal cheese, and 

Jessie Larsen and Steve Walters, part of the 

community-shared and worker-owned Red Rabbit.


visiting Monforte on Wellington, the 

seasonally-inspired osteria on Market 

Square, is always a highlight. The restaurant 

features an ever-changing selection 

of cheeses, charcuterie, salads, soups, 

preserves, pickles and other specialties, 

prepared by Monforte’s culinary team. 

Mark and Linda Simone bought Bijou in 

March, added a new entrance off Wellington 

Street, a new bar in the front area and 

extended hours with plans to operate the 

bistro for 10 months of the year. Chef Max 

Holbrook added to the daily-inspired 

chalkboard features a globally-inspired 

tapas menu of shareable plates featuring 

Perth County ingredients. The menus of 

small plates are paired with craft wines and 

some old world classics. 

Among Stratford’s most eagerly awaited 

openings this year was The Red Rabbit. 

Jessie Larsen and Chefs Sean Collins and 

Tim Larsen created the community-shared 

and worker-owned venture in a former 

bridal shop on Wellington Street. The 

instantly successful, down-to-earth, farmoriented 

dining experience is built on years 

of deep symbiotic relationships that remain 

at the heart of The Red Rabbit experience. 

There is a dedicated focus on Perth County 

ingredients from area farmers like Church 

Hill Farm, Perth County Pork Products, 

McIntosh Farms, and Soiled Reputation. 

Regional ingredients abound on The Red 

Rabbit menus and include addictive housemade 

salumi (beef heart pastrami) and 

delicious rillettes of rabbit. Be sure to try the 

Colonel Collins fried chicken and waffles, 

which has become a Stratford staple. In 

search of a watering spot that serves great 

craft and house-infused cocktails? The 

Red Rabbit is the ticket. Keep in mind that 

The Red Rabbit is closed on Tuesday and 

Wednesday, from now through the winter. 

The once celebrated Church Restaurant, 

where the Stratford Chefs School started in 

the kitchens back in 1983, was purchased 

and painstakingly refurbished by Rob and 

Candice Wigan. The former Baptist church 

turned dining and music venue is now the 

stunning Revival House and gastro-lounge 

Chapel. Chefs Kyle Rose and Byron Hallett 

met seven years ago in London, Ontario, 

and have been working together on and off 

since. “Our friendship started over a love of 

salty pork products, knives, hard work and 

Continued on page 30 ... 

Birdfeeding Experts 

Garden Gifts 

Holiday Decor 

HOME • GARDEN • GIFTS 

• In-stock Decorator Fabrics 

• Choose from a Large Selection of 

Fabric Books 

• Custom 

Drapery 

• Upholstery 

• Custom 

Pillows 

• Unique 

Furnishings 

& Accessories 

• Consultation 

Services 

1560 Hyde Park Road, London 

Located in the former Hyde Park United Church 

519-641-2916 

www.decoratorschoicefabrics.com

eimagined + reinvented + revealed 

Stratford is more than 

great theatre 

visitstratford.ca 

@StratfordON 

StratfordON 

dining 

tête-à-têtes 

weddings 

concerts 

dinner shows 

519.273.3424 

celebrate@revival.house 

Formerly 

The Church Restaurant 

HOLIDAY Gift Baskets, Entrées, 

Hors D’0euvres, Sweets & More! 

We offer restaurant-style food to 

take away, a retail gourmet food 

selection, and catering for all 

parties, big and small. Let us help 

with your Holiday entertaining! 

51 York Street, Stratford 

TUES–SAT 10:30–6 | SUNDAYS 10:30–3 

519 508-8884 

www.linleys.ca 

SUPPER CLUB Themed Dinners 

November 21 — Orange is the New Black Netflix series 

December 19 — A Christmas Carol 

This monthly event series will continue in 2016. 

Guests are encouraged to dress on theme. 

$50/person 

Nosh Monday has restarted! 

@redrabbitresto 

64 Wellington St, Stratford 

www.redrabbitresto.com 

519.305.6464 

Thursday–Monday 

Year Round

Your Christmas Chocolate Shop 

Downtown Stratford | 55 George Street West 

519.272.2828 | (Ask for Jacqueline Barr) 

Shop Online: chocolatebarrs.com 

facebook.com/chocolatebarrs | twitter: @chocolatebarrs


Revival House 


Chef/restaurateurs Aaron and Bronwyn 

Linley, former owners of Bijou, introduced 

Linleys Food Shop, located at 51 York Street, 

in late-July. The chef-driven shop features 

catering, restaurant-style food to take 

away and a selection of gourmet fare. Both 

experience and proclivity led the Linleys 

—known for their visionary cuisine that 

espouses global inspiration, modern French 

technique and the very essence of Ontario 

— to become formidable culinary retailers. 

Bill and Shelley Windsor, who own The 

Prune, purchased Mercer Hall Inn this 

summer and placed Chef Ryan O’Donnell 

at the helm. The restaurant at Mercer Hall 

continues to offer chef-inspired food and 

drink featuring heritage pork, line-caught west 

coast seafood and Ontario-focused wines. 

After several delays, Down the Street Bar 

and Restaurant re-opened to rave reviews in 

July with Chef Lee Avigdor in the kitchen. 

Continued from page 27 ... 

the beverages that follow. We’re 

passionate about using local and 

sustainable ingredients, showcasing 

nose-to-tail cuisine and the best of 

what Ontario and Perth County have 

to offer,” declares Rose. 

On a visit to the Chapel, we began 

the evening with the Ontario Gouda 

Tasting. The sampling consisted of 

four half-ounce portions of Mountainoak 

and Thunder Oak Gouda (favourites were 

wild nettle and fenugreek), which the kitchen 

sources from the charming Milky Whey Fine 

Cheese Shop on Ontario Street. Chef’s pairing 

takes cheese tasting to a whole other level. It 

was comprised of lightly pickled apple balls, 

a mound of torched maple meringue, a glass 

of fermented celery water, florets of crunchy 

charred dehydrated broccoli and a gorgeous 

chunk of pure comb honey from the “Revival 

House Hives” (produced in partnership with 

Huismann Apiaries). 

The charcuterie board was underpinned by 

technique and skill and the salumi had lots of 

flavour. The offering included speck (smoked 

pork leg), lonza (cured pork loin), coppa 

(salt-cured from the neck) and rillettes which 

in this case were a rich spread of savoury, 

seasoned, slow-cooked pork. It should be 

noted that there were a heady 22 VQA’s to 

choose from on the impressive wine list. 

An Ontario Gouda Tasting at Revival House 

Following on the heels of last fall’s 

opening of Black Swan Brewing, comes 

Stratford’s own micro-distillery, Junction 

56 Distillery. Owner Michael Heisz began 

his first batch in April, and is starting with 

vodkas, vapour-infused gins and moonshine 

on the shelves at Junction 56. The facility 

and retail outlet opened to public in 

mid-September. Tours and tastings at the 

distillery run every Saturday. 

There are plenty of great cafés in Stratford. 

Anne Campion’s Revel Caffé, behind the 

red brick City Hall (with its gables, turrets, 

gargoyles, and finials), is a great place to 

grab and go or sit and watch the sights 

through the large glass windows facing onto 

Market Square. 

www.visitstratford.ca 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor & Writer at Large.

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early December. Patrons can expect the 

same home-cooked savoury and slow-roasted 

breakfasts and lunches that have been such a hit in 

Parkhill. There are no deep fryers here — and most 

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Fresh herbs and quality ingredients are hallmarks 

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Lobo’s Place is family-run and family-friendly. 

Kids’ meals are served on a frisbee (that they can 

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Adult dishes are generously portioned and artfully 

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travel 

Holiday Season Travels ... 

Discovering the Christmas Markets of Europe 

By CLAUDIA VIANI 

Ilove to travel and I love the holiday 

season, so what better way to combine 

both — a trip to Europe to experience 

the holiday markets! 

It was in Strasbourg in 1570 that the very 

first edition of the oldest Christmas market 

in Europe took place. It is still called the 

Christkindelsmärik — market of the Infant 

Jesus. 

My kids and I were first exposed to 

European Christmas markets in 2001, 

while living in Tuscany. We watched local 

merchants decorate their stores inside and 

out with natural materials — garlands of 

magnolia leaves or fresh pine, accessorized 

with pine cones and holly berries. Main 

piazzas proudly hosted freshly-cut pine trees 

decorated with thousands of colourful lights, 

while street vendors set up, selling anything 

from roasted chestnuts to silk scarves, from 

truffles and local cheeses to ceramics and 

handmade wooden and glass ornaments, to 

Map courtesy of Viking River Cruises 

Striezelmarkt, Dresden’s Christmas Market 

numerous variations of the nativity scene. 

While we lived there the town of Lucca 

set up an outdoor skating rink in the main 

piazza for the first time in their history, and 

my kids were certain it was because three 

Canadians were in town. 

We eventually came home to Canada, 

and a few years ago I decided to travel 

back to eastern Europe in early December 

specifically to enjoy one of my bucket list 

items — experience some world-renowned 

Christmas markets at their finest. 

We decided to do this from the comfort of 

a river cruise ship, and chose the Budapest 

Strasbourg’s Christmas Market, the Christkindelsmärik


EXCLUSIVE 

TOURS 

The Rathausplatz Christkindlmarkt, Vienna, Austria 

to Passau itinerary. We arrived in Budapest 

with a day to spare, and so had time to 

stroll about this beautiful city and visit two 

of Budapest’s Christmas markets. The first 

was in Vörösmarty Square. There were gift 

stalls and a tent with folk dancers, but this 

is definitely the place to come for food. 

Hot sausages and Hungarian baked goods, 

including lángos (deep fried flatbread 

with a variety of toppings), strudels and 

kürtöskalács (chimney cakes). 

A trip to the Great Market Hall, Budapest’s 

famous indoor market, is a must. The first 

floor is filled with locals buying groceries. 

It’s a foodie’s delight, and for the season 

there are even garlic buds packaged as 

tree ornaments, complete with red bows. 

Upstairs caters more to tourists, with 

souvenirs like paprika and t-shirts. 

In Budapest, our favourite Christmas 

market was situated in front of St. Stephen’s 

Basilica. It featured a small skating rink, and 

the big attraction was the hourly lightshow 

on the Basilica. After a while we sat and 

watched the world go by from a local café. 

Our cruise began the next morning. The 

eight-day journey took us along the Danube 

River, through four of Europe’s most enchanting 

countries: Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and 

Germany. Each day we woke up in a new port 

and everywhere we went the yuletide spirit 

embraced us. Each stop presented narrow 

alleyways in romantic towns and villages, 

and open-air markets with fragrances of gingerbread, 

mulled wines, roasted chestnuts 

and grilled sausages. Old town squares were 

festively illuminated with twinkling lights, 

while local artisans in wooden stalls displayed 

unique items such as handmade wooden toys, 

delicate ornaments made from blown glass, 

gingerbread houses, and local food delicacies. 

One of our most memorable moments 

occurred in Salzburg. Seemingly out of 

nowhere St. Nick came down the cobble- 

Tasting Tuscany 

May 13–23, 216 • 1 Nights Land 

Escorted by CWT Host and food & wine enthusiast Debbie Monahan. 

Enjoy your stay at Villa Marta, an eighteenth-century 15-guest room 

villa originally built as a hunting lodge. Located 5km from the city 

centre of Lucca, nestled in the countryside that separates Pisa from 

Lucca. Highlights include 3 Group Cooking Classes followed by lunch 

with wine, with excursions to Barga, Florence, Monteriggioni, San 

Gimignano, Siena, Pisa and Viareggio. Contact us for more exciting 

details regarding accommodations, meals and inclusions. 

Sicilian Splendour 

October 2016 • 1 Nights Land 

Escorted by CWT Host Claudia Viani, who was born and raised in Italy, 

speaks fluent Italian, and welcomes you on this fabulous journey 

exploring the food, wine and local traditions that set Sicily apart from 

the rest of Italy. Highlights include local wine tasting on the slopes of 

Mt. Etna, a visit to Taormina’s Greek theatre, the circa 500 BC architectural 

ruins of Siracusa and tours of Palermo, Taormina & Monreale. 

3 nights in Palermo, 3 nights in Siracusa, 4 nights in Taormina. 

For more information on this exciting tour, and others, contact: 

Carlson Wagonlit Travel 

450 Columbia St. W. Unit 6, Waterloo ON 

1-800-267-9269 

waterloo@carlsonwagonlit.com TICO Registration 50020877 

www.cwtvacations.ca/waterloo


stone 

street in 

a horsedrawn 

carriage, 

driving 

amidst 

all of the 

wonderfully 

decorated 

A booth at the Passau Christmas Market 

baroque 

shops with their charming wrought-iron 

guild signs. A string quartet filled the air 

with classical music — Mozart, of course 

— and it did begin to feel like the hills 

surrounding Salzburg were alive with the 

sound of music (forgive me). Around every 

corner there were more musicians, including 

a flutist and a classical guitarist. 

Vienna had over 29 Christkindlmarkts. 

There was a small one in front of St. Stephan’s 

Cathedral, but the main one was located at 

the Rathausplatz, the square in front of the 

city hall. There were over 150 stalls selling 

anything from ornaments to Krapfen (donuts 

filled with jelly) and hot chocolate, to roasted 

London’s Destination 

for Culinary Excellence 


nuts and yet again, Glühwein. Carolers and 

trumpeters provided angelic sounds, and 

here I purchased beautiful hand-painted 

ornaments that each year adorn our Christmas 

tree and bring back fond memories. 

On our final day we docked in Passau, 

known as Dreiflüssestadt (City on Three 

Rivers) because it’s situated at the confluence 

of the Danube, Ilz and Inn rivers. The 

Christmas market was small but it was one of 

our favourites. Although we were abundantly 

well-fed on our cruise ship, we continued to 

spoil our appetites by enjoying some final 

local German treats. Here Glühwein was 

available in souvenir mugs that only cost 

between two and three extra euros. 

A few pounds heavier but with wonderful 

life-lasting memories of yuletide days gone 

by, we returned home where we continue to 

welcome each winter holiday with family, 

close friends, good food and the true spirit of 

the season. 

CLAUDIA VIANI is an avid traveller and has worked in 

the travel industry for over 35 years. She is a Director, Leisure 

Operations Canada, for Carlson Wagonlit Travel. 

502 adelaide st. n, london 

theboomboxbakeshop.com 

Reserve a 

Private Room 

for Your 

Party! 

32 

Continental cuisine – with a 

contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. 

From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, 

Michael’s makes your celebration an event. 

eat local. 

listen local. 

shop local. 

Lunch Tuesday to Friday 

Dinner 7 Nights a Week 

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm 

1 York Street 

519-672-0111 

Free On-Site Parking 

Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com 

for Weekly Specials and Theme Nights Info 

Gift Certificates 

Make the Perfect 

Christmas Gift 

café • vegfriendly goodies • special orders


The BUZZ ... new and notable 

As we head into winter, seasonal events and 

festivals are beginning, providing reasons 

and destinations for day tripping around our 

region. As well, some farmers’ markets operate 

year ‘round, including those in Sarnia, Chatham, Simcoe, 

Dunnville and Woodstock. So, take a hike! 

Regional … 

The C-K Table is promoting the Craft Beer & Cider 

Festival, on November 21. The event will showcase craft 

breweries from across southern Ontario in a festival format, 

as well as host the first-ever Farmer-Brewmaster Summit. 

The Summit will provide opportunities for Ontario craft 

brewers to meet local farmers and discuss their needs 

regarding grains and the brewing process. Local farmers will 

have the opportunity to learn more about the opportunities 

to work with Ontario brewers by supplying grains and hops. 

www.cktable.ca/craft-beer-festival-november-21/ 

The wineries of Essex County invite you to explore your 

inner artist and create inspiring paintings, with the help of 

good friends and, of course, wine! In three hours you will 

finish a canvas painting while sampling some of the area’s 

most popular and distinguished wines. On December 4 the 

Wine & Paint Night will be at Colio Estate Winery in 

Harrow. www.forartssakeandwine.com 

Yoda’s Kitchen has expanded and is now open every 

Wednesday from 11 to 6 for light lunch and seasonal to-go 

meals. Focusing on plant based food, Chef Yoda Olinyk 

has opened her kitchen up for cooking classes, workshops 

and events. Yoda’s Kitchen will also be a vendor, and 

Yoda a speaker, at Veg Fest London in November. www. 

letyodacookforyou.com 

On September 26th Huron Food Action Network (HFAN) 

honoured local food heroes in an awards presentation at the 

Bayfield Town Hall. Sarah and Peter Gusso of Part II Bistro 

in Blyth won for “Most Local Restaurant”. Nathan Swartz, 

food systems coordinator with HFAN, said the restaurant 

won because of its menu, for which it sources as many local 

ingredients as possible. Sophie and Christian Burdan of Red 

Cat Farm won the “Best Farm Tour 2015”. Marlene Beyerlein 

of Bayfield Berry Farm had overwhelming support in the 

“Most Loved Farmers’ Market Vendor” category, and Jim and 

Catherine Landsborough of Maelstrom Winery won “Most 

Potential”. The HFAN food charter is a set of commitments for the 

community to cultivate a sustainable local food system. 

E&D_LocomotiveED_Nov2014_ART.pdf 1 201 

Book NOW for your 

Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party 

& Reserve for New Year’s Eve! 

Seasonal Hours 

Reservations Recommended 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend 

www.finearestaurant.com


Part II Bistro in Blyth has ascended to the top of the 

restaurant scene when it was ranked the number one 

restaurant in the province (out of 29,000) on the travel website 

TripAdvisor, the largest travel review website in the world. 

Chef and owner Peter Gusso received the call from Trip 

Advisor on September 9th, informing him of the ranking. 

Three years ago, the hometown couple of Peter and 

Sarah Gusso opened Part II Bistro. Peter, a Fanshawe College 

culinary grad, previously worked at Waldo’s on King with 

Mark Kitching. The Gussos worked in the British Isles to 

have new experiences and hone their culinary skills. Initially, 

they operated the Blyth Station House B & B and a catering 

A Taste of Europe since 1974 

MURDER MYSTERIES 

Dec. 3 • 4 • 5 • 6 • 10 • 11 • 12 • 13 • 18 

& New Year’s Eve 

Murder, Vegas Style! 

Book Your 

Holiday Party! 

Private Rooms Available 

Free Room Rental 

(Year Round!) 

122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens) 

519-679-9940 

Open Daily for Dinner 

www.marienbad.ca 

Lunch Monday–Saturday 


business. In June 2012, they launched the bistro. Shortly after, 

Gusso won the Taste of Huron Chef’s Challenge and has 

been drawing in Huron County enthusiasts ever since. The 

bistro is conveniently located across from the Blyth Festival 

Theatre on the village’s main street. The dining room is casual 

with a blend of rural charm and a modern flair, featuring 

theatre festival posters on the walls with a ceiling draped in 

twinkle lights. www.part2bistro.ca 

Langdon Hall has always been known for setting the 

benchmark when it comes to luxurious surroundings 

and exemplary service. That quest continues with the 

announcement of an expansion. The brand new wing, 

located by the lower garden, will be home to a state-ofthe-art 

spa, event venue and eight luxurious guest rooms. 

Completion is slated for January 2016. www.langdonhall.ca 

Five Canadian restaurants have won this year’s University 

of Guelph Good Food Innovation Awards for inventive 

approaches and imaginative meals. The annual awards, 

launched in 2010, are sponsored by Stewart, the University of 

Guelph President’s Office, the Ontario Agricultural College, and 

the College of Business and Economics. They recognize chefs 

and food professionals who use Canadian ingredients to make 

unique, healthy menu selections, and who follow sustainable 

management practices. “Canadian culinary traditions are 

constantly evolving, and these five chefs are at the forefront 

of these changes,” said Anita Stewart, Canada’s first food 

laureate at University of Guelph and founder of Cuisine Canada 

and Food Day Canada. This year, the five gold medal winners 

were Langdon Hall (Cambridge, ON), Taverne Monkland 

(Montreal, PQ), Les Jardins Sauvages (Saint-Rochdel’Achigan, 

PQ), Little Louis Oyster Bar (Moncton, NB), 

and River Café, (Calgary). 

This fall, Feast ON-certified restaurants across Ontario will 

be offering unique dining experiences designed to highlight 

Ontario food and drink. Participating restaurants will 

showcase Ontario beef and cow’s milk cheese, produced by 

the Beef Farmers of Ontario and Dairy Farmers of Canada. 

In our region, restaurants include Eddington’s of Exeter, 

Mercer Hall, The Bruce, Pazzo, sixthirtynine, Langdon 

Hall, and Nick and Nat’s Uptown 21.


Stratford ... 

Alan Malloux and Barb McMahon of Downie Street 

Bakehouse have completed the expansion of the bakery. 

New ovens, another walk-in fridge and a new retail space 

that one of the customers described as sexy. Designed by 

Ron Nuhn, how could it be otherwise? facebook.com/ 

DownieStreetBakeHouse 

Soup Surreal is growing from strength to strength. The 

outside of the shop is newly updated and business is 

booming. www.soupsurreal.com 

Monforte on Wellington is bringing back Family Style 

Dinners on Sunday nights starting November 1st. www. 

facebook.com/MonforteOnWellington 

The Red Rabbit has released its Supper Club dates 

beginning with “Orange is the New Black” dinner on 

November 21st and “A Christmas Carol” on December 19th. 

$50 per person includes four-plus courses on theme! Be sure 

to stay tuned for the Beer Dinner series release starting in 

November. www.redrabbitresto.com 

Bijou is serving Sunday Brunch featuring “elevated traditional 

brunch items” augmented by “Global Dim Sum.” Diners will be 

able to select items directly from the Dim Sum cart. The menu 

will include a core offering of Asian and Chinese specialities 

complemented by tacos, raviolis and perogies. 

In October, Bijou switched to a full a la carte dinner 

menu. Chef Max Holbrook and the culinary team will 

feature 12 to 14 small plates/appetizer items and seven main 

course choices, plus daily features. Bijou can customize 

menus to suite special occasion and seasonal celebration 

events from 8-80 people. www.bijourestaurant.com 

Stratford Chefs School Lunch and Dinner Series: The 

classic four- to six-course Dinner Series meals are served at 

The Prune, Tuesdays through Saturdays, while three-course 

lunches take place at Rene’s Bistro Fridays and Saturdays. Wines 

available by the glass or $5 corkage. Menus change daily. Share 

your feedback following your meal. Take advantage of special 

dinner packages available now for a limited time and reserve 

your place at the table. www.stratfordchef.com 

Here’s the line-up for the Live at Revival House Music Series: 

• Saturday, November 7: Lucinda Jones returns for her 

annual concert with an evening of Retro Jazz and Blues with 

the Lucinda Jones Band. 

• Friday, November 13: Award-winning, roots based, 

pop/rock recording artists, Upside of Maybe and singer/ 

songwriter Dayna Manning. 

• Thursday, November 19: Madison Violet released their 

new album “Year of the Horse” in Europe this past year. 

Influenced by pop, electro, disco and folk, the new songs are 

a fresh direction for the Juno-nominated Lisa MacIsaac and 

Brenley MacEachearn. 

639 Peel Street, Woodstock 

519-536-9602 

www.sixthirtynine.com 

“Creative, 

local and 

sustainable 

dishes ...” 

Reservations 

Recommended 

Stunning Views 

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Ambiance Galore 

Now Booking Christmas 

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TUES, WED, FRI, SAT, SUN 11am–5pm 

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rhinolounge.ca | 519.850.5111 

at 

MUSEUM 

LONDON 

421 ridout st. 

HOLIDAY SPECIAL 

Pick Up & Reheat 

Turkey Dinners $24pp 

TUESDAY to FRIDAY, 11–4 

SUNDAY Brunch, 11–4 

Available Evenings for Private Events 

theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287


• Saturday, December 12: Ali Matthews, a contemporary 

Canadian Christian musician and songwriter from Stratford, 

presents a seasonal concert. www.revival.house 

The Gamekeeper’s Dinner is a unique opportunity to 

sample Canadian wild game prepared by local chef talent. 

Enjoy a four-course dinner featuring a selection of meats 

from the hunt as well as local fish, with each dish prepared 

with local wine, beer and spirits. All proceeds support The 

Local Community Food Centre, a place where people come 

together to access, cook, grow, share and advocate for good 

food for all! Friday November 13. www.thelocalcfc.org 

142 fullarton at richmond 


The Sunday Slow Food Market has moved to its winter 

location at the Falstaff Family Centre, 35 Waterloo St. N. 

Vendors are very excited to be spending their second winter 

in the same bright, cozy location. Customers will be able to 

buy all the fixings for a great Sunday dinner. There’s often 

live music and the Slow Food Youth operate a cafe in the 

kitchen downstairs. www.slowfoodperthcounty.com 

Scotch and Chocolate: Christine Chessell of Rheo 

Thompson Candies and whiskey sommelier Steve Rae 

expertly pair seven unique whiskies with different Rheo 

Thompson chocolates for a smooth tasting experience. Revival 

House, Saturday December 19. www.visitstratford.ca/tastings 

On Sunday, November 22nd from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm 

visit the historic Market Square for Stratford’s Victorian 

Christmas Market. Vendors will offer holiday foods, crafts 

and gifts. Sip hot cocoa while listening to costumed carollers 

singing seasonal tunes. 

Stop in at the Local Community Food Centre on Sunday, 

November 29th from 10:00 am to 1:00 pm. in Stratford to 

enjoy live Bluegrass Music with brunch and coffee from 

local coffee roaster, To Bean or Not to Bean. This event is paywhat-you-can. 

www.thelocalcfc.org 

Catch the spirit of the season on the Victorian Christmas 

Trail, a self-guided walk to shops dressed for the holidays 

offering tasty treats perfect for stocking stuffers (or just for 

you!). Pick up your trail pass at Stratford Tourism Alliance. 

This seasonal trail runs November 12 to December 20, 2015. 

www.visitstratford.ca/Christmastrail 

Bradshaws presents Naughty Nog and other Holiday 

Libations: Mixology for the upcoming Holiday Season, 

a unique event on November 26 at Red Rabbit bistro. 

Hosted by Jessie Larsen, the evening will empower you 

to make your own all-natural and delicious eggnog ahead 

of the holiday season. You’ll learn the easy but impressive 

art of creating holiday infusions, and how to update 

old favourites like hot toddies and buttered rum. Light 

bar snacks to be served. The $40 fee includes a bottle of 

Canadian-crafted Dillon’s Bitters (retail value $16.95). And 

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients 

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) 

Caterer serving London & Area with different and unique ideas 

www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030


check the website for details on another Bradshaws event 

in early December called “Meet the Butler” — Learn 

proper etiquette and holiday entertaining tips from a REAL 

butler! www.bradshawscanada.com/events 

Around London … 

The 20 Under 40 Awards Program recognizes 

accomplished industry leaders in London who are younger 

than 40 who also give back to their community. The awards 

are given by Business London magazine and sponsored 

by Harrison Pensa, Lovers At Work, BlueStone Properties, 

the Pristine Olive Tasting Bar, Magnus Associates, CIBC 

Wood Gundy Pryde Financial Group and Nothers Signs 

and Recognition. Three of our favourite colleagues from 

the culinary world will be recognized at a reception at 

London Music Hall on Nov. 19. They are: Andrew Fleet, 

Founder and Executive Director, Growing Chefs! Ontario; 

Jessica Jazey-Spoelstra, President and CEO, North Moore 

Catering, The River Room and Rhino Lounge Bakery and 

Coffee Shop; and Jeff Pastorius, Founder, On The Move 

Organics, and Co-founder, The Root Cellar and London 

Brewing Co-operative. www.businesslondon.ca/sites/ 

businesslondon_ca/upload/20under40/index.html 

Chi and Tai Diep opened Taika Japanese restaurant in 

2003, concentrating on premium sushi and sashimi. After 

years in the restaurant business, Chi and Tai have returned 

to their origins, offering home-style Vietnamese cuisine. 

The genius of Vietnamese cooking lies in the adaptation 

of foreign influences to develop a distinctly unique and 

subtle cuisine with contrasting flavours and textures. In 

April, they relaunched their restaurant as Saigon 88, 

featuring signature dishes such as pho, a deeply-flavoured 

broth with long rice noodles, fresh herbs and thin slices 

of meat most often accompanied with a side of bean 

sprouts, peppers and lime wedges. Other signatures 

include pad thai, vermicelli noodle bowls, bahn xeo, 

traditional savoury fried pancakes made from rice flour, 

and lemongrass scented chicken. The restaurant started 

out at 500 Oxford St. W. and relocated south to 400 

Sugarcreek Trail in the Riverside-Wonderland Road area in 

2012. www.saigon88.restaurant 

The eleventh annual London Wine and Food Show 

presented by White Oaks Mall will be back at the Metroland 

Media Agriplex from Thursday, January 14 to 16th with an 

ever-expanding show floor. See the centre spread of this 

issue for more details, but in short, Friday night is Ladies’ 

Night, presented by Pandora. New this year is a second 

entertainment stage presented by Fanshawe College. 

Explore the Whiskey Lounge, or take a stroll down Craft 

Brew Row. www.westernfairdistrict.com/wine-food-show 

Things are rolling along at Locomotive Espresso. Some 

new offerings to their fall/winter line up are the fall sandwich 

offerings from their caterer, Heirloom Catering and new 

daily soups from MoMo’s at the Market. Enjoy a Maple Latte, 

www.davidsbistro.ca 

Busy preparing for the holidays? 

Let Us Help! 

Since 1972 

Gift 

Certificates 

Available 

1050 Kipps Lane, London 

519-673-6606 

www.kippslanefish.com 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course 

prix fixe menu 

option 

432 Richmond St. 

at Carling • London 

Come by for a 

delicious meal of 

Home-cooked 

Fish & Chips! 

“Homemade Goodness 

with a Gourmet Touch” 

TUES–THURS: 3–7:30 

FRI: 12–7:30 SAT: 3–7:30 

Closed SUN & MON


growers & creators of fine lavender products 

DISCOVER 

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a 

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta 

INDULGE 

in our unique handcrafted lavender products 

ESCAPE 

in the wonderful scent 

and calming powers of lavender 

519-494-5525 

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

buds@steedandcompany.com 

Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4 

Mother’s Day through Christmas 

www.steedandcompany.com 

OPEN 

Thursday to Sunday 

11am to 8pm 

Five Fortune Culture 

RESTAURANT 

366 Richmond Street at King 

www.fivefortuneculture.com 

226 667 9873 

Join us for our 

Christmas 

Open House 

November 

28 & 29 

“Pure 

Chinese” 

Cuisine 

—eatdrink 

its Pilot Roasters Big Bro espresso roast, teamed with locally 

sourced syrup from Bishop Farms. Enjoy their toast bar; the 

new favourite spread seems to be the cashew butter. Fresh 

breads are provided by The Artisan Bakery. Friday mornings 

are always special too at Locomotive Espresso, when they 

receive fresh-baked almond and butter croissants and chocolate 

brioche. www.locomotiveespresso.com 

Justin and Gregg Wolf of The Early Bird diner and Rock 

au Taco are working on their new concept in Wortley Village. 

They will be calling the establishment Wolfe of Wortley, 

trying to bring a new experience to the village with a cozy 

20-seat restaurant and a 14-seat patio. Wolfe on Wortley will 

be open evenings only, for people looking for a date spot or a 

nice evening out on the town. Expect casual but sophisticated 

dining focusing on pickling, fermenting and preserving. 

The menu will also feature oysters, charcuterie, house made 

pastas and other farm fresh offerings made from scratch. 

Downtown London … 

The cool weather is coming but you can fill your belly on 

Sunday afternoons in November with Two-Course Films 

on Food, at Museum London, when staff pull old and 

new flicks out of the cupboard, tossing documentaries and 

dramas together with a dash of comedy. There’s something 

to satiate all palettes, so help yourself to a second serving! 

On November 14, VegFest London will feature vegan food, 

product, health and wellness vendors, special guest speakers, 

cooking demos, a children’s activity area and more. Western 

Fair District Progress Building. www.vegfestlondon.com 

Festival of Trees at the Covent Garden Market will run 

November 26–Sunday November 29. Visit Santa’s Secret Shoppe 

on the Upper Level, with a variety of quality gifts for family and 

friends priced $5 or less. (Only children at heart are permitted in 

the store!) At “Soupendous” Lunch, market vendors compete for 

the Best Soup. Taste competing soups prepared by local chefs, 

help judges pick winners — and enjoy entertainment and other 

fun for $5. Friday, 11:30 to 2. Breakfast with Santa on Saturday 

from 9:30 am to 2 pm. Tickets are $5 and include a pancake 

breakfast and a special gift from Santa. Photos with Santa will 

also be available, for children of all ages, for $5. And for more fun 

for the family,The Kids Corner will be located near Santa’s Secret 

Shoppe. Children can create one of the many holiday-themed 

crafts with their parents. Saturday, 8 to 6. 

Garlic’s of London will be selling small baskets of honey 

and garlicky products from The Garlic Box in Hensall 

during the holidays — a great gift, when combined with 

a gift certificate. Garlic’s is thrilled to feature some new 

seasonal fare on their menu, including Ontario Lamb Shank 

and Braised Beef Pappardelle. www.garlicsoflondon.com 

On Sunday December 6, enjoy Christmas Tea at Eldon 

House. Get into the holiday spirit with live entertainment, 

tea and a substantial 19th century menu before you 

tour Eldon House, decorated for Victorian Christmas! By 

reservation only. www.eldonhouse.ca


Local brothers Kirk and Victor Anastasiadis have 

opened Burger Burger at 633 Richmond St. A signature 

item is a triple-decker burger with three grilled cheese 

sandwiches as buns. Word has it there is even a quadruple 

burger! www.fb.com/itsburgerburger 

Local musicians will be coming together to help the 

London Food Bank increase food supply for those in need!! 

Attendees are asked to bring non-perishable food items to 

enter the event at Food Bank Rock Lottery at The APK 

As well as admission the food items enter you into a raffle. 

The more items you bring the more chances you will have to 

win! Saturday, December 12. www.theapk.ca/events 

Kiss the Cook is celebrating its 15th anniversary. Owner 

Lawrence Burden’s passion is searching for the highestquality 

kitchenware — sourcing it from around the world 

— and bringing it to your kitchen. Kiss the Cook provides a 

wide range of cookware, kitchen gadgets, and giftware, and 

offers a popular bridal registry. Chris Squire, who was also 

partly responsible for dreaming up the name Kiss the Cook, is 

Chef-in-Residence and, along with a variety of top-notch local 

chefs, offers cooking classes. www.kissthecookonline.com 

Blu Duby owners Joe and Cheryl Duby have built a diverse 

and loyal clientele by combining an accessible menu and 

wine list with upbeat ambience. Chef Jamie Craig has just 

launched a new menu for the holiday season. Three separate 

spaces can be easily transformed into private dining areas to 

accommodate parties and all types of special occasions with 

attentive service, customizable menus and the ability to leave 

the planning to talented professionals. www.bluduby.com 

The Silver Star Mountain Resort in Okanagan, British 

Columbia recently welcomed Chef Scott Sanderson as 

executive chef. Chef Sanderson was Executive Chef at La 

Casa Ristorante for eight years, carrying on the venerable 

restaurant’s 20-year tradition of excellence. Sanderson spent 

the last year as Head Chef of the iconic and authentically 

Italian Bertoldi’s Trattoria on Richmond Row. 

After a $10-million renovation, the London Hilton has 

been rebranded and relaunched as a DoubleTree by 

Hilton property. The former London Grill space has 

been transformed into Blake’s Bistro and Bar, with a 

contemporary look and updated menu. 

The Bull and Barrel opened at 359 Talbot Street in mid- 

October, featuring southern-style smokehouse cooking, a 

rooftop patio, dance floor and mechanical bull. Open seven 

nights a week, enjoy country music several nights a week with 

a band and DJs. Some servers will double as line-dancers. 

www.bullandbarrel.com 

Brown and Dickson is an antiquarian booksellers located 

in the former Novack’s premises at King and Clarence Streets. 

Brown and Dickson are the anchor retail tenant sharing 

space with smaller “pop-up” retailers trying to get a start 

in the market before moving on to more permanent space. 

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed 

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine 

• FAMILY 

FRIENDLY 

• Vegetarian 

Options 

• Takeout 

• Catering 

• Reservations 

Recommended 

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant 

LUNCH Tuesday–Friday 11am–1pm by reservation 

DINNER Tuesday–Sunday 5–10pm • Closed Monday 

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com


Their specialty is Canadian culture. This is the place to find 

rare cookbooks. www.brownanddickson.com 

Quantum Interiors just unveiled their new showroom 

on Richmond Row. Quantum will now have products 

for kitchen, bar, and dining room redecorations and 

renovations. www.quantumfurnishings.com 

Old East Village … 

Mary Ann Wrona is one of the original market vendors at the 

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair. Wrona, originally 

known to market-goers as “The Cabbage Roll Lady,” recently 

celebrated eight years operating Café Bourgeois at the 

Hormone & Drug-Free 

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb 

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table 


market. She is gearing up for the holiday season by preparing 

what she refers to as “culturally and ethnically authentic Ontariosourced 

soul food.” This is healthy catering and gourmet-to-go 

with strong ties to the eclectic Polish-French culinary tradition. 

Wrona is known for her signature queen-sized potato stuffed 

perogies, made with a thicker than usual, dairy-free dough 

that gives it more of a “chew,” and fries to a golden brown, and 

for tourtière, stuffed squash and a variety of classic vegetarian 

specialities and fabulous organic soups. 

The Harvest Pantry is now located on the 2nd floor of the 

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair. The food and kitchen 

Growing garlic goodness 

Since 1998 

THE VILLAGE 

MEAT SHOP 

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY 

Now Accepting 

Special Orders 

for the Holidays! 

100% CANADIAN 

GREEN GARLIC SCAPES 

The New Green Salt 

SUBSTITUTE FOR 

YOUR TABLE SALT 

ADD A MILD 

GARLIC/ONION FLAVOUR 

SHAKE THE 

GOODNESS 

OF GARLIC 

ONTO YOUR PLATE 

— EVERY DAY 

■ All natural 

■ Non-GMO 

■ Gluten Free 

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR 

Metzger Meat Products • The Whole Pig 

Blanbrook Bison Farm • Lena’s Lamb 

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm 

226-376-6328 • www.reallygreatmeat.com 

www.thegarlicbox.com | www.garlicrecipes.ca 

toll free 1.888.772.9994 | Hensall, ON 

AVAILABLE AT: Bradshaws, Clay & Gourmet, 

Feather Your Nest, Foodies, Gourmet Passions, Hansen’s, 

Hayter’s, Killer Desserts, Jill’s Table, The MillHouse & Remark


small wares pantry’s focus is on preparing small batch 

ferments, like sauerkraut, kimchi, cultured mustards, 

miso and kombucha. The shop also partners with other 

local producers to offer wild foraged Chagas, medicinal 

herbs, tea blends, organic spices and sweet seasonal 

jams and jellies. www.theharvestpantry.com 

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery is a small artisan winery 

located in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The wines will soon be 

available at the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western 

Fair. www.coyotesrunwinery.com 

We want your 

BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that 

you’d like us to share? Eatdrink reaches more than 50,000 

readers across Southwestern Ontario in print, 

and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly 

with our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Made in Erieau. 

Welcome 

to 

Chatham-Kent, 

Shore to Shore! 

Enjoyed everywhere. 

WOOD BURNING OVEN. 

OPEN ALL YEAR. 

Simple food. 

Local produce. 

Great beer. 

Reservations 519.676.8888 

970 Ross Lane, Erieau ON • 519.676.1888 

WWW.BAYSIDEBREWING.COM 

“Down the street and around the corner, but worth every inch of effort ...” 

Wholesale • Retail • Further Processing 

Our Own Quality Raised Pork 

Free Run Eggs, Sausages & Deli Products 

Custom Barbecues • Catering For All Occasions 

10910 Northwood Line, RR#2, Kent Bridge ON 

519-351-7711 • www.rmeats.com



wine 

Food & Wine & Bubbles 

It’s that time of year! 

By GARY KILLOPS 

The 11th annual London Wine & 

Food Show will soon be here. Last 

year a record high of over 15,600 

attended the three-day event at the 

Agriplex at the Western Fair District. 

The 2016 festival will once again be at the 

Metroland Media Agriplex from Thursday, 

January 14th to Saturday, January 16th. 

Building on last year’s success that saw 

almost 100 exhibitors participating in the 

event, the show promises to be even bigger 

this year. There is something for everyone 

at the festival. Ontario winemakers, craft 

brewers, distillers and their representatives 

will be available to talk about their products. 

There will be gastronomical treats from 

some of Ontario’s top chefs to taste ,while 

sipping on some of Ontario’s finest wine and 

craft beer. 

Interested in learning 

a little bit while at the 

London Wine & Food 

Show? The informal 

cooking seminars 

and wine 

tastings are 

always well 

attended. And there 

are opportunities to 

discover what is going on in Ontario’s 

culinary scene. 

Tickets will go on sale soon. Visit www. 

westernfairdistrict.com/wine-food-show for 

ticket information. 

TIP: purchase admission tickets online 

before the show and save! 

Holiday Bubbles! 

In the next month or so there is a good 

chance that either you will open a bottle of 

sparkling wine, or someone will pour you 

a glass of bubbly. This fizzy wine is good all 

year round, but people do tend to buy more 

for holidays. Sparkling wine is synonymous 

with celebrations. 

A question I am often asked at this time 

of year is what the difference is between 

sparkling wine and Champagne? Both are 

bubbly, the cork pops on both when opened 

so what is the difference? 

Quick answer: Champagne is a sparkling 

wine but not all sparkling wines are 

Champagne. A sparkling wine can only 

be called Champagne if it comes from 

the Champagne region of France. (Some 

California wineries do call their sparkling 

wine Champagne, but that’s another story.) 

Getting those tiny bubbles into the bottle 

can be accomplished in several ways. The 

two most common methods are called the 

“traditional method” and “charmat” or tank 

method. 

Champagne is made using the traditional 

method. Secondary fermentation occurs in 

the wine bottle. A byproduct of fermentation 

is carbon dioxide (CO2). The CO2 can’t escape 

from the bottle and dissolves into the wine 

and over time makes the wine bubbly. After 

fermentation is complete, the expired yeast 

cells remain in the bottle for an extended 

period of time adding complex bready notes 

to the wine. It is a time-consuming, labourintensive 

process, which explains in part why 

Champagne is expensive. 

The charmat method is cheaper and 

quicker. The secondary fermentation occurs 

in large pressurized tanks and the product 

is bottled under pressure. This method 

produces a fruity style sparkling wine. If you 

have ever had an Italian Prosecco you have 

had a bubbly made this way. 

Both methods are used in the making 

of sparkling wine in Ontario. Here are a 

few sparkling wine suggestions for you 

to consider this holiday season. They are 

either available directly from the winery or 

at the LCBO.


The Grange of Prince Edward County 

2013 Sparkling Riesling ($19.95 

lcbo #392746) — A tasty, semi-sweet 

bubbly that packs a good punch of 

acidity making it very food friendly 

and versatile. Fruity apple and pear 

notes; this “Limited Edition” was 

made using the “charmat method”. It 

is no longer available at the winery 

as it sold out. However it can still 

be found at some LCBO Vintages 

locations. It’s capped with a crown 

cap (similar to a beer bottle cap) so 

you will need to use a bottle opener 

for this one. 

JOIN US FOR 

THE 

ULTIMATE 

STEAK 

EXPERIENCE 

Cave Spring Blanc de Blancs Brut Sparking 

Wine ($29.95 lcbo #213983) — Brut on the 

label means that the wine is dry. There 

should be no perception of sweetness 

at all. Blanc de Blancs means that 

the wine is made of 100% white wine 

grapes, most commonly chardonnay. 

This non-vintage sparkling wine, 

made from chardonnay grown 

on the limestone-rich Niagara 

Escarpment bench, was made using 

the “traditional method”. After 

secondary fermentation the wine 

remained on the lees for 30 months. 

Notes of crisp apple, pear, bread 

dough and wet stone. Quite complex 

and an excellent value. This one 

should impress every discerning sparkling 

wine drinker on your list. 

Vineland Estates 2013 Reserve Brut ($28, 

winery only) — This is a dry bubbly (charmat 

method). A blend of pinot meunier (a 

black wine grape most noted for being 

one of the three main varieties used in 

the production of Champagne) (49%), 

chardonnay (42%) and riesling (9%). 

Fresh apple, crisp acidity with fine 

tiny bubbles. Perfect for popping at 

any celebration! 

Ontario sparkling wines are very 

food friendly, and very versatile for 

wine and food pairings. Their high 

acidity cuts through rich, fatty dishes 

and can handle salty dishes too. 

GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk, 

taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on 

EssexWineReview.com 

NOW OPEN IN LONDON! 

977 Wellington Road S. 

226 663 5100 

WALK-IN GUESTS 

ALWAYS WELCOME 

CHOP.CA



BEER MATTERS 

beer matters 

Cool Weather Wrap-up... 

And Some Gift Ideas 

By THE MALT MONK 

We are entering the seasonal 

brewing doldrums. The fall 

harvest festival brews are still 

fresh in our olfactory memory 

as we anticipate the upcoming release of the 

sturdier winter brews. Craft brewing in the 

traditional modality gives us a connection 

with the changing seasons. So in synchronicity 

with the seasonal overlap I will attempt 

to give you some impressions of some of the 

fall seasonals which stood out for me, and 

some recommendations for winter releases. 

I’ll review some new brewing operations, 

and offer some gift suggestions for the craft 

brew acolyte on your shopping list. 

Some Outstanding Fall Seasonals 

Flying Monkeys Brewing: Coast to Coastless 

Imperial ESB (LCBO #435347)—This is a 

collaboration brew which was designed 

with, and brewed simultaneously at Phillips 

Brewing BC, Trou du Diable in Quebec and 

Garrison Brewing in N.S. Coast to Coastless is 

a 7.6% ABV Imperial ESB, brewed with Amber 

and Crystal malts and British hops (Bramling 

Cross, Challenger and Admiral). It decants 

a deep copper-amber to the glass — 

pungent aromas of seed fruits and 

sweet malts with some floral bouquet. 

Huge billowy tan cap. The flavour is 

complex with sweet bready grains 

mixing with succulent dark fruit, 

toasty-resinous character and an 

underlying soothing bitterness to 

keep the sweet malt in trim. The 

key element here is that the only 

thing this monster brew has in 

common with an English ESB bitter 

is the variety of hops and malt used. 

The huge olfactory attack of intense 

flavours is the result of ingredient 

quantity, method and brewing skills 

— well worth a try. 

Beau’s Farm Table Marzen (on 

tap or in bottles lcbo #436899) 

— Beau’s continues its series of Farm Table 

sessionable craft beers with an authentic 

Munich Marzen (Oktoberfest bier). This 

offering improves on last year’s Night 

Marzen with more affirmative dry hopping. 

Pours a clear reddish-orange with a decent 

off-white cap. Aroma is pungent fresh baked 

bread tones with the noble hop woodiness, 

a supportive side note, a bit of leafy-earthy 

mustiness. Flavour follows aroma — breadytoasty 

with an adequate whack of Perle hop 

bittering and woodiness, clean finish goes 

dry with a decent noble hop bite at the end. 

A very good Marzen or Oktoberfest beer 

for quaffing. For German lager fanciers, 

this is as good as it gets — drinks well with 

steaming Oktoberfest wurst dinners. 

Abe Erb Brewing Co: Alterior Motive 

Altbier (on tap at the brewery or your local 

beer bistro) — A very nice offering from 

this new in-house brewer from Kitchener. 

Small capacity but brews twice a week, so 

there is enough extra kegged beer to sell to 

other pubs. I was particularly impressed 

with this excellent amber 

Altbier — pours a light 

burnished copper with a 

moderate off-white cap. 

Aroma of toasty-caramel 

Munich malts, light 

herbal woodiness and 

a light beech nut tone. 

Flavour is malty-nuttytoasty, 

very dry with even 

spalter bitterness from front to finish — a 

well finished dry hoppy Alt. Let this warm to 

about 50 degrees to release all of its nuttytoasty 

aroma. 

Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizenbock 

(lcbo #265140) — Decants a murky honeygold 

wheat, massive white cap and lively 

natural effervescence. Aromas of clove, 

apricot, hay, and sweet grains. Nice wash of 

biscuit malts in front. Well-balanced with 

fruity tones, some spice, hop presence gives

One of 2014’s 

TOP 10 

Beer Bars 

in Canada 

sufficient bittering to create some pleasant 

layering. Finishes rather dry with some nice 

noble herbal bitterness. Warming, satisfying. 

Flavour and character are that of a great 

double wheat beer or imperial wheat rather 

than a heller bock. Very drinkable. 

Upcoming Winter Seasonals 

Innocente, NickelBrook, Amsterdam and 

other barrel-aged winter brews promise 

to be released in the late fall/early winter 

weeks. These great barrel-aged brews have 

been maturing in wood for four months or 

longer, and will likely show up locally in 

bottles and kegs. Word has it some whisky 

barrel stouts and porters are near release, 

as well as some barley wines and big amber 

ales from local OCB brewers. 

At the LCBO 

• Epic Epicurean Coffee & Fig Oatmeal 

Stout: from New Zealand, scores 98% on 

beer rating sites, lcbo #429498 

• Viking Chili Stout, Premium Danish Ale: 

a good example of the artisanal use of 

peppers and chilies in stout, lcbo #420349 

• Stewart Cauld Reekie Stout: cask-styled 

stout from a word class Scottish crafter, 

lcbo #429480 

• Great Lakes Brewery Saison DuPump: 

GLB’s take on the quintessential Dupont 

Saison, on tap and lcbo #362814 

• Viven Porter: a lush robust porter crafted 

by Brouwerij van Viven, brewed at De 

Proefbrouwerij Sijsele, Belgium, lcbo 

#417873 

A Review of Smithworks Brewing 

I had occasion to be in Peterborough 

recently and stopped by to see the relatively 

new Smithworks craft brewery operation. 

What I found took me aback somewhat. I 

had expected a small family-run operation 

in its infancy but here, tucked away in a 

secluded industrial park, was a state-ofthe 

art-craft brewing operation with a 

respectable output capacity for the size of 

the building. In the rustically styled and 

comfortable tasting room you can sample 

the brews by the glass on tap, or fill a 

growler, or buy some in half-litre bottles. 

Smithworks is unique in that it is the first 

Ontario craft brewer (to my knowledge) 

that does not filter any of the beers. This is 

because they are meant to be consumed 

fresh, in peak condition, with all the flavour 

amalgams present in real unadulterated


beer. I can attest to the fact they 

hit the freshness and flavour 

target dead center. But the 

thing that really makes this 

brewery unique is that all 

the bottled beers are bottle 

conditioned (final extra fermentation 

in the bottle). This 

gives the bottled beer a natural 


effervescence, and phenomenal 

flavour. Smithworks 

bottle-conditioned beers 

are available at your local 

craft beer bar, the brewery, 

or your LCBO: Smithworks 

Dunkelweizen, Hefeweizen, 

Blonde Ale and Kellerbier. 

Gifts for Foam-Heads 

Here’s a guide for those new to craft beerfood 

pairing. It’s a short guide to cheesebeer 

pairing — and it’s free! You can get it at 

local OCB breweries, DFC cheese outlets or 

download it here: www.ontariocraftbrewers. 

com/pdf/BeerCheeseGuide.pdf 

Books for the Craft Brew Afflicted 

• Cool Beer Labels: The Best Art & Design 

from Breweries Around the World by 

Daniel Bellon and Steven Speeg. 

• Craft Beer World: A Guide to Over 350 of 

the Finest Beers Known to Man by Mark 

Dredge. A new beer 

drinker’s bucket list of 

fine brews to seek out. 

• Beer for All Seasons: 

A through-the-year 

guide to what to drink 

and when to drink it by 

Randy Mosher. Essential 

reading to understand 

the seasonal cycles of 

beer styles and seasonal releases. 

• The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the 

Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food 

by Garrett Oliver. The essential timeless 

classic on artisanal beer and nouvelle 

cuisine pairing. 

Glassware & Gear for Tap Sponges 

• Growler Koozies — Keep that growler 

cool on the patio! Growler Koozies will be 

all the rage as the local markets shift to 

fresh draft beer for home consumption. 

• Spiegelau Beer Classics 19 Ounce IPA 

Glass — the ultimate serving vessel for a 

fine IPA. 

• 10” Draft Beer Hop back Randall — For 

dedicated home brewers with a Corni 

keg or other charged draft beer system, 

the ultimate dry hop delivery system for 

humulone addicts is now very affordable. 

• Drink Tanks Insulated Stainless Steel 

Growler — With the new changes coming 

in Ontario concerning fresh craft 

beer for home consumption, it will be 

easier than ever to fill a growler at your 

local craft brewery, LCBO or brew pub. 

This growler is a must for the foam hound 

who likes fresh draft crafted beer at 

home. It also has a CO2 charging option. 

Malt Monk’s Taste ‘O’ the Month 

Amsterdam Brewing, Six Boroughs 

Bourbon Barrel-Aged Rye Porter (on tap 

at your local craft beer oasis, or in a wax 

dipped litre bottle LCBO # 438093) 

This brew started as an entry in the 

Toronto Beer Week competition. The brewer 

now makes larger releases of this wonderful 

imperial strength rye porter as scheduling 

permits — there is a release out as I write 

this review. Here is a very sturdy uber-porter 

with some bracing complexity from a number 

of elements, the least of which is the 

spicy-roasty dark rye 

malt base. The process 

involves a six-month 

aging stage in Four 

Roses bourbon barrels, 

which imparts a rich 

whiskey-smoky-vanilla 

character to both 

aroma and flavour of 

the brew. Deep dark black-brown with ruby 

highlights, this porter’s complexity mingles 

the dark fig-plums ester tones with roasty 

malts and unmistakable smoky-woodywhisky-vanilla 

tones. Rich and silken on the 

palate, this wonderful big brew hides its 10% 

ABV well. A great fireside sipper to savour 

this winter. 

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a 

passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in 

the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com


on the boards 

Holiday Traditions, New and Old 

By RICK YOUNG 

The holiday season is a time for 

sharing good times with family 

and friends. Why not share some 

great local live theatre? 

This year you can choose between a 

holiday family classic, a British panto 

version of a well-known fairy tale, a 

re-telling of the Robin Hood legend, and 

a timeless American literary classic. 

Susan Ferley, the Grand Theatre’s 

artistic director, says the Grand 

is always looking for a play that 

speaks across generations for its 

holiday offering. Securing the 

rights for A Christmas Story 

began with the insistence of 

her younger staff and a family 

conversation she overheard 

last December. 

“My executive assistant 

said ‘Susan, you have to 

realize that A Christmas Story 

is my generation’s A Christmas Carol,’ ” says 

Ferley. “The clincher came when I overheard 

a family in the lobby talking about watching 

A Christmas Story on TV later that night.” 

Since its release in movie theatres in 1983 

A Christmas Story, Jean Shepherd’s tale of 

Ralphie Parker and his whacky 

dysfunctional family, has achieved 

cult status on television and is 

required viewing for many people 

come December. 

The story revolves around 

9-year-old Ralphie’s yearning 

to find a Red Ryder BB gun 

under the family Christmas 

tree, in a setting that harkens 

back to pre-war Cleveland in 

the early 1940s. The problem 

is that everyone, including a department 

store Santa, keeps on telling him that he 

will “shoot his eye out” with the gun. In 

the process, familiar holiday situations like 

buying a Christmas tree, visiting Santa, and 

writing letters to Santa are presented. 

While the basic story and main characters 

remain the same — Ralphie, the Old Man, 

Schwartz, Farkus, and others are all here — 

audience members can expect some noticeable 

differences in live stage presentation. 

“In the movie, the adult Ralphie 

provides an ongoing voice-over,” 

says Ferley. “In our stage version, he 

actually appears onstage lending his 

explanation to the action and he plays 

some minor roles in the play. The 

role of Esther Jane, one of the girls in 

Ralphie’s class is also given much 

more prominence.” 

Returning to the Grand as the 

adult Ralphie is Steve Ross, 

the star of last year’s Shrek: 

The Musical. Londoner Rachel 

Jones plays Miss Shields, 

Ralphie’s teacher. Bill Layton 

has designed sets which 

capture the playfulness of the 

story, says Ferley. 

A Christmas Story plays on the Grand 

Theatre’s Mainstage from November 24– 

December 30. www.grandtheatre.com 

Presenting a British pantomime during the 

holiday season has become a tradition for 

the Elgin Theatre Guild in St. Thomas, 

says Lesley Chapman, the Guild’s 

president. 

A pantomime is a musical 

comedy designed for family 

entertainment. It was developed 

in England and is performed 

during the Christmas and 

New Year season. Modern 

pantomime includes songs, 

slapstick comedy and 

dancing, usually employing 

gender-crossing actors, and combining 

topical humour with a story loosely based on 

a well-known fairy tale, in this case, Jack and 

The Beanstalk. 

“The big difference between traditional 

stage and panto productions is the active 

encouragement of audience participation 

Author Ian Crof


for the latter,” says Chapman, who is 

co-directing this year’s panto with Ken 

Roberts. “The more the audience interacts 

with the action onstage the better and the 

more fun everyone has.” 

In fact, before each performance, 

Chapman actually “warms 

up” the audience by having 

members practice their 

booing and cheering. 

The cast is all local, with 

40 people in the chorus, 

ranging from five to 84 

years of age. Chapman says 

there are a few surprises in 

order, including a dancing 

cow. 

“It’s all quite silly and a 

lot of fun,” says Chapman. 

“We usually have sell-outs, so people should 

get their tickets early.” 

Jack and The Beanstalk plays at the Elgin 

Theatre Guild from December 3 to 13. 

www.elgintheatreguild.ca 

For readers seeking more adult-oriented 

theatre, By The Book Theatre is presenting 

John Steinbeck’s Of Mice and Men in the 

McManus Studio Theatre at the Grand from 

November 24 to December 5. 

Director/producer Mark Killeen refers 

to Steinbeck’s classic tale of two drifters — 

George Milton (played 

by Andre Cormier) 

and his dim-witted 

companion Lennie 

Small (Rob Deman) 

— trying to survive 

in Depression-era 

America as a “time 

capsule.” 

“One of my 

favourite lines from the Steinbeck novella 

was ‘Live off the fat of the land’ spoken by 

Lennie,” says Killeen. “The play opens up a 

whole lot of issues and themes including the 

dream of a better life, loneliness, how society 

deals with racism, people with disabilities, 

and why people couple.” 

Killeen points out that Curley’s wife, 

played by Jesslyn Hodgson, plays a much 

more prominent role in the play than in the 

novella. 

The production will be staged with lots 

of design and a minimalist artistic set with 

flats. “It will all work together to tell the story 


exactly as the words come off the page,” says 

Killeen. “It’s a wonderful piece of literature 

and we’re going to try to do it justice.” 

Of Mice and Men is recommended for ages 

14 plus. www.bythebooktheatre.com 

London Community 

Players revisit the Robin 

Hood tale with The Trials 

of Robin Hood at the 

Palace Theatre. 

“This production is 

perfect, family-friendly 

theatre for the holidays,” 

says director Ceris 

Thomas. “It’s a silly 

version that had me 

laughing out loud as 

I read the script. Just 

this side of a panto, the script actively 

encourages audience participation.” 

King Richard has returned to England and 

wants to know what has happened during 

his absence. Robin is put on trial, but what 

is unique about this production is that it is 

told through the points of view of different 

Robin Hoods — one of whom is the typical 

hero told by Robin himself, a second “lusty” 

Robin told by Maid Marion, and a third one 

who is depicted as an idiot as told by the 

Sheriff of Nottingham. The audience gets to 

decide which depiction of Robin Hood is 

the “true” one, says 

Thomas. 

Original music 

for the production 

is being composed 

by London singer/ 

songwriter Donna 

Creighton. “Donna 

is writing some 

catchy tunes that the 

audience can sing along with,” says Thomas. 

“It’s a big Christmas party suitable 

for families with children four and up,” 

says Thomas. “Don’t plan a party, bring 

everybody here!” 

The Trials of Robin Hood plays from 

December 3 to 20 on the mainstage at the 

Palace Theatre. www.palacetheatre.ca 

RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local, 

regional and national print and online publications, was the 

Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine, 

an independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to 2014.


The classic family 

favourite on stage! 

2015/16 SEASON 

BY JEAN SHEPHERD ADAPTED BY PHILIP GRECIAN 

GRANDTHEATRE.COM 

TICKETS 519.672.8800 

Season Sponsor 

Title Sponsor



sound bites 

Wicked Witches & Sugar Plum Fairies 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

It’s a busy time of year on the classical 

music scene, as ensembles get ready to 

spread musical joy during the holiday 

season. 

But first, there’s time for an opera! Engelbert 

Humperdink’s Hansel and Gretel brings the 

wicked witch and her gingerbread children to 

the Davenport Theatre stage, November 20–22. 

Presented in English by Opera at Western, 

and based on the 

familiar Grimm 

brothers’ fairly tale, 

this is “definitely a 

family opera,” says director Theodore Baerg. 

In fact, the production includes 12 local 

children in addition to a talented cast of 

Western Music students. 

Hansel and Gretel is the first of three 

student opera productions in this academic 

year, as Opera at Western presents Verdi’s 

Falstaff January 29–February 7, and a 

year-end opera and musical theatre gala 

performance on March 11. www.music.uwo.ca 

The Karen Schuessler Singers begin their 

23rd season with Karl Jenkins’ The Armed 

Man: A Mass for Peace, November 21 at 

Wesley-Knox United Church. 

Composed in 1999 and dedicated to the 

victims of the Kosovo Crisis, The Armed 

Man explores the horrors of war, but ends 

with an expression of hope for peace in 

the new millennium. “I first heard this 

work at Lincoln Centre in New York,” says 

Schuessler. “It makes a powerful statement 

with music that is just rhapsodic.” 

This performance features guest soloist, 

contralto Gabrielle Heidinger Baerg, as 

well as a multimedia presentation that 

Schuessler says will “enhance and enrich 

the experience.” www.kssingers.com 

Serenata Music continues its all-Canadian 

2015/16 season on December 6 at Wolf 

Performance Hall, when violinist Mary- 

Elizabeth Brown joins forces with pianist 

Anastasia Rizikov for an afternoon 

concert of works by Schnittke, Stravinsky, 

Rachmaninoff, Tchaikovsky and Prokofiev. 

“I’ve watched both of these artists develop 

over the years,” says Serenata Music’s Renée 

Silberman. 

Londoners may remember Mary-Elizabeth 

Brown as the associate concertmaster 

of Orchestra London. Today, she lives in 

Montreal where she was recently appointed 

concertmaster of the McGill Chamber 

Orchestra. “I like to keep in touch with 

musicians who have made a mark here in 

London,” comments Silberman. 

Toronto’s Anastasia Rizikov is a rising 

young star on the Canadian and international 

music scene. “She’s a 16-year-old who can 

play anything,” says Silberman. “I first heard 

her when she was 10. She was breathtaking 

then and continues to be breathtaking now. 

She’s a very worthy young artist who deserves 

to be heard.” www.serenatamusic.com 

For many people, the holiday season just 

wouldn’t be the same without a performance 

of Handel’s Messiah. And this year, London 

Pro Musica picks up the baton from 

Orchestra London and Fanshawe Chorus 

London to present this beloved seasonal 

work, December 9 at St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

“London Pro Musica has been the choir 

component of this annual event for many 

years,” says LPM member Jenny Nauta. 

“This year, with the changes in the orchestra 

scene, we have joined in a full 

partnership with The Musicians Of 

Orchestra London in presenting 

this program.” 

The community-based choir 

and the WePlayOn musicians 

will be led by conductor Dr. 

Vicki St. Pierre and joined by soloists Erin 

Bardua (soprano), Laura Puwell (mezzo 

soprano), Asetha Tennekoon (tenor) and 

Matthew Cassils (bass). 

“There is such a feeling of optimism moving 

forward that this performance is sure to reflect


the valued relationship between our choir and 

the musicians,” notes Nauta. “Then there is the 

added enhancement of performing Messiah 

at St. Paul’s Cathedral. The sound will be 

magnificent.” www.londonpromusica.ca 

The Musicians of Orchestra London also make 

a guest appearance with the Amabile Boys & 

Men’s Choirs, December 5 and 6 at St. Peter’s 

Cathedral Basilica. “A Candlelight Christmas” 

will be led conductor Brian Jackson — another 

face familiar to local concertgoers. 

“Honoring the 

British traditions of 

caroling, the music 

celebrates the life of 

King’s College composer and conductor Sir 

David Willcocks, who passed away this fall, 

and the 70th birthday of his protégé, John 

Rutter,” says conductor Carol Beynon. 

The seasonal sounds continue December 

12 when the Junior Amabile Singers & 

Amabile Da Capo Choir join forces for “Have 

Yourself a Movie Christmas” at New St. James 

Presbyterian Church, and December 13 when 

the Amabile Young Women’s Ensemble 

present “Alleluia” at First St Andrew’s United 

Church. www.amabile.ca 

Ballet-lovers are in for a holiday treat when 

Canada’s Ballet Jörgen brings The Nutcracker, 

A Canadian Tradition to Centennial Hall, 

December 21. 

Founded in 1987, Canada’s Ballet Jörgen 

is the country’s fifth-largest dance company 

and one of the few with a truly national 

reach, presenting original works in more 

than 50 communities each year. 

This twist on the traditional Nutcracker 

moves the story to rural Ontario and 

uses backdrops inspired by The Group 

of Seven painters while remaining true to 

Tchaikovsky’s well-loved score. “My goal 

in creating this production was to recreate 

the Nutcracker so it would fit in a Canadian 

context but still tell the basic Nut cracker 

story,” writes artistic director Bengt Jörgen in 

his program notes. www.balletjorgen.ca 

NICOLE LAIDLER has been writing about London’s 

cultural scene for more than a decade. See what else she’s been 

up to at www.spilledink.ca 

2015-2016 concert season 

THE 

ARMED 

MAN 

Saturday 

APRIL 2, 2016 

Outstanding music by our many 

outstanding London and area 

musicians,with an opportunity to 

meet them and learn just how 

they do it - Smallman, Hardy, 

VanderHoek, Christmas,White 

BA 

BA 

DANCING QUEEN 

Saturday 

NOVEMBER 21, 2015 

Karl Jenkins’ magnificent mass for 

peace dedicated to the victims of 

the 1998 Kosovo Crisis. With 

orchestral ensemble, soloist 

Gabriele Heidinger Baerg, 

and multimedia presentation. 

Two performances: 

8 pm,Saturday, MAY 28 

3 pm,Sunday, MAY 29 

2016 

380 million singles and albums can’t be wrong! With our very 

own ABBA vocal quartet led by Kristin Darsault, pianist 

Stephen Holowitz and band, the amazing music of ABBA! 

Season subscriptions with reserved area seating 

Adult $54, Senior (65+) $48, Student $20, Child (6-13) free 

Subscriptions and tickets from KSS members, 

at 519.455.8895 or www.kssingers.com 

Arthur Rowe 

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR 

2015–2016 

All concerts at 8 pm 

at Wolf Performance Hall 

251 Dundas, London 

All ticket sales through 

Grand Theatre Box Office 

519.672.8800 

grandtheatre.com 

Special thanks to 

Saturday 

Friday 

November 21, 2015 January 29, 2016 

Arthur Rowe, piano Pacifica Quartet 

SCHUBERT | LISZT 

SECOND ALL-BEETHOVEN CONCERT 

www.jefferyconcerts.com



books 

My Cup of Tea 

The Tea Book by Linda Gaylard 

Review by DARIN COOK 

Some may think tea is simple: black 

tea for the afternoon in Britain and 

green tea for Asian ceremonies. But 

that is just the tip of the tea leaf. There 

are white tea, herbal tisanes, yellow tea, 

kombucha, cold infusion tea, tea mixology, 

and so many more things to be learned from 

The Tea Book (DK, 2015, $24.00). Drawing 

on her experiences her experiences as a tea 

sommelier, Linda Gaylard has taken on the 

task of “convincing tea drinkers that there is 

much more to tea than a mug and a tea bag. 

Beyond the bag there is mystery, history, 

travel, industry, culture, and ceremony: a 

whole new world to explore.” By covering 

all aspects of loose-leaf tea preparation, she 

hopes to stoke the growing interest in what 

she calls “the true path of tea.” 

Dorling Kindersley (DK) is known for 

high-quality reference books, and The Tea 

Book is no exception with its encyclopedic 

scope covering everything from growing, 

harvesting, drying, and storing tea leaves, 

to extensive details about the fifteen teagrowing 

regions around the world, to 

etiquette guidelines for Chinese, Japanese, 

and Korean ceremonies. 

Along with the horticultural and historical 

aspects of tea, Gaylard also primes her 

readers to become tea 

experts with detailed 

notes on how to perfect 

all varieties of tea at home 

with brewing temperatures, 

steeping times, leaf-towater 

ratios, and gadgets 

for preparing green, white, 

oolong, black, Pu’er, and 

yellow teas. After you have 

the mechanics down, 

Gaylard provides guidelines 

on how to appreciate tasting 

tea with a Flavour Wheel that 

visually makes connections 

to the intricacies that can 

come from complex flavours. 

Once 

you begin 

to identify 

flavour 

profiles, 

Gaylard 

urges you 

to move 

on to the culinary 

science of combining classical 

blends. For instance, Earl Grey is wellknown 

in the tea world, but the distinct 

taste can be created with a loose-leaf 

combination of three freshly-brewed black 

teas — Darjeeling, Ceylon, and Assam — 

along with the oil and peel of bergamot (a 

citrus fruit that is a cross between an orange 

and a lemon; the inside is quite inedible 

and its only practical application is the oily 

essence extracted from its skin as an agent 

for flavouring and perfume). 

As well, the health benefits of tea are 

highlighted in the book with details about 

the antioxidant properties of matcha 

powder, probiotic powers of kombucha, 

and therapeutic attributes of tisanes (which 

are not strictly teas, but mixtures of plants 

and other natural elements infused into 

an herbal beverage). Similar to the Flavour 

Wheel, a Wellness Wheel 

identifies plants, seeds, 

roots, barks, and flowers 

as ingredients for tisanes 

to treat ailments, from 

the well-known lavender 

and chamomile that help 

induce sleep to the notso-common 

treatment of 

fennel seed and dandelion 

root to treat arthritis. 

Aside from learning to 

appreciate flavours and 

mixing your own blends and 

tisanes, readers can peruse 

Author Linda Gaylard


over 50 pages of recipes. This is possibly 

the most eye-opening portion of the book. 

These recipes go beyond steeping tea leaves 

by featuring tea in sophisticated beverages 

like Jade Orchard, which combines Yunnan 

Green Snail tea leaves with diced pear and 

dried goji berries. Another recipe combines 

dried figs and shaved dark chocolate with 

Pu’er tea leaves for an earthy, sweet brew 

named Chocolate Fig. The blend of spices, 

honey, and buffalo milk added to Assam tea 

to make Masala Chai has become popular 

outside of its homeland of India, and bubble 

tea, which originated in Taiwan, can be made 

at home with tapioca pearls as the bubbles 

and tea boiled from taro root. Any looseleaf 

tea-lover can keep busy and happy for 

months with the novel recipes that Gaylard 

introduces. The Tea Book is a wealth of 

knowledge for anyone looking to step beyond 

the normal tea bag and to be innovative with 

loose-leaf tea. 

DARIN COOK works and plays in Chatham-Kent, and is a 

regular contributor to eatdrink. 

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cookbooks 

Curbside 

Modern Street Food from a Vagabond Chef 

By Adam Hynam-Smith 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

If Australian-born Chef Adam Hynam- 

Smith ever had a fear of bold and spicy 

flavours, his travels through Morocco 

and Thailand quickly cured him of 

it. In 2010 he brought those flavours to the 

Niagara region in one of Canada’s first “nontraditional” 

food trucks, El Gastrónomo 

Vagabundo. In this case, “non-traditional” 

means a truck that is mobile and prepares 

fresh food to order. We love our fries and 

corn dogs from chip wagons in Ontario but 

we are definitely ready for something more. 

In his first cookbook, Curbside: Modern Street 

Food from a Vagabond Chef, Hynam-Smith 

gives us a taste of what we’ve been missing. 

Spurred on by the food truck revolution 

celebrated on television, more people 

are now looking for a taste of high-end 

restaurant quality food without the gourmet 

prices. Modern food trucks can provide a 

whole new experience of tastes and textures 

along with the carnival atmosphere of 

waiting in line at a trailer for lunch. It’s 

like eating at the fair but less scary. Well, 

slightly less scary. There’s a Pickled Octopus 

recipe in this book with a full page of photos 

that gave me the willies, but I’m sure it’s 

delicious, if you can get past the tentacles. 

I’m too fond of alien 

movies for this to be an 

option for me. If you’re 

braver than I, please email 

me and let me know how 

it turned out. 

The Mise en Place 

section of this book is 

dedicated to a collection 

of spice blends, garnishes, 

sauces, curries, and 

preserves. They can be 

made ahead and stored, 

Author Adam Hynam-Smith 

ready to create 

recipes from this book or 

liven up just about any other meal you 

can imagine. You might add some Harrisa 

(Tunisian chili paste) to your burger, or 

season some roasted vegetables with Dukkah 

(sesame seeds, hazelnuts and spices). Candied 

Bacon should work on everything but your 

morning cereal. Maybe even there, actually. 

I particularly enjoyed the number of pickling 

recipes and look forward to adding many of 

these to my own favorite Thai noodle salads. 

Hynam-Smith has adapted many of his 

restaurant recipes for home cooking. He also 

includes offerings from some of his friends, 

other chefs in the Niagara Region. There’s 

a great mix of items, from quick, casual 

food to more elaborate dishes that take 

several days to prepare. 

Beverage recipes range 

from simple mint tea to 

a Caesar made with soup 

broth, chili jam and fried 

shallots. 

The Chicken Pot 

Stickers were so good 

they never made it to the 

table. We couldn’t stop 

eating each fresh batch 

as they came out of the 

pan. At our house, that’s 

a “keeper” recipe. A dish 

I’ll probably save for


special occasions is a decadent food truck 

treat, Fried Banana with Toasted Coconut 

Cream. I’m not sure that the health benefits 

of bananas completely balance out the deep 

frying, but after one bite of this dessert I no 

longer cared. 

Curbside is one of those books that 

makes you feel adventurous just flipping 

through the pages. Mike McColl’s photos are 

spectacular, I only wish there had been more 

of them. (Maybe in place of the octopus 

pictures.) 

I’m not sure how long it will be before we 

see more gourmet food trucks roaming the 

streets of London but when they get here, 

thanks to the efforts of people like Hynam- 

Smith and his Vagabundo team, we’ll be 

ready and waiting. 

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TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in 

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Before 

After 

Recipes and photos on the following pages are courtesy of 

Whitecap Books. Curbside: Modern Street Food from a Vagabond 

Chef, Adam Hynam-Smith; Whitecap Books, 2015. 

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Chicken Pot Stickers 

Pot stickers are a steamed dumpling that is 

fried on one side before steaming, which gives 

the pot stickers simultaneously a crisp and soft 

steamed texture, giving dumpling fans the best of 

both worlds. Variations of pot stickers are found 

throughout China, Korea, and Japan. 

4 dried shiitake mushrooms 

3 cups (750 mL) unbleached all-purpose flour 

1 1/8 cups (280 mL) just-boiled water (approx.) 

1 lb (500 g) ground chicken breast 

6 water chestnuts, shelled and finely diced 

2-inches (5 cm) long piece ginger, finely diced 

5 red shallots, finely diced 

3 cloves garlic, finely diced 

kosher salt, to taste 

black pepper, freshly cracked, to taste 

2 Tbsp (30 mL) sunflower oil 

¼ cup (60 mL) hot water 

Soak shiitake mushrooms in warm water for 20 

minutes. Squeeze them to remove excess water 

and finely slice. Set aside. 

To make the dough, place flour in a mixing bowl 

or a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. 

On low speed, gradually add the just-boiled water 


to the flour. Let the dough hook bring the dough 

together, stopping to scrape the sides of the mixing 

bowl as needed. Once all of the water is added, 

make sure all of the flour has been incorporated, 

and continue to knead with the dough hook for 

an additional 2 minutes. Add more water by the 

teaspoonful if mixture is too dry and crumbly. 

Place dough on a lightly floured surface. Knead 

the dough by hand for 30 seconds to 1 minute, 

ensuring the dough is smooth. Place in a 

resealable bag, expelled of air. Allow to sit at room 

temperature for a minimum of 2 hours. 

When dough is ready, remove it from the bag and 

cover with a moist tea towel. Cut off tablespoonsized 

pieces of dough and roll them out on a 

lightly floured surface, one at a time. Stack rolled 

dough portions out between layers of plastic wrap 

in between, dusted lightly with flour. Repeat this 

process until all of the dough has been rolled. 

In a bowl, combine chicken, water chestnuts, sliced 

mushrooms, ginger, shallots, and garlic. Season 

with salt and pepper. Mix well, and set aside at 

room temperature. 

Working with one piece of rolled dough at a time, 

place a spoonful of chicken 

mixture in the centre of the 

dough. Use your finger to brush 

the edges of the dough with 

water. Fold the dough over so the 

edges meet, forming a moonshaped 

dumpling. Pinch the edges 

to seal the dumpling. Beginning 

at one end of the dumpling, use 

your fingers to slightly overlap the 

edge of the dumpling with itself, 

pinching as you go to create a 

series of Z-shaped folds along the 

outside edge. Repeat this process 

with the remaining dough, 

covering the dumplings with a tea 

towel or plastic wrap as you go. 

To cook pot stickers, heat oil in a 

large skillet over medium-high 

heat. Place dumplings into the 

skillet, flat side down, and fry for 

2 to 3 minutes or until golden 

brown. Do not flip. Pour in hot 

water, cover with a tight-fitting 

lid, and allow to cook for an 

additional 2 to 3 minutes or until 

cooked through. 

Serve immediately with your 

favourite dipping sauces. 

Serves 4


Fried Banana with Toasted Coconut Cream 

This dessert is the ideal food truck treat. It is quick and simple 

to prepare, and a crowd favourite. The bananas come out of the 

deep-fryer golden and crispy on the outside, and warm and 

almost gooey on the inside. 

4 cups (1 L) canola oil 

1 ½ cups (375 mL) self-rising flour (approx.), divided 

1 cup (250 mL) soda water 

2 bananas, halved lengthwise 

¼ cup (60 mL) Toasted Coconut Cream (see below) 

2 kaffir lime leaves, stem removed and finely julienned 

4 sprigs mint, leaves picked 

In a deep fryer or deep pot, heat oil to 350°F (180°C). 

Place 1 cup (250 mL) of flour in a medium mixing bowl. Gradually 

add soda water to flour, whisking until batter is smooth but not 

too runny, similar to pancake batter. 

Dredge banana pieces in 1/2 cup (125 mL) of flour, and then in 

wet flour batter. Carefully place battered banana pieces in hot oil 

and deep-fry for 3 minutes or until golden brown. Remove pieces 

from pot and place on paper towel to absorb excess oil. 

To serve, place one banana piece on each serving plate, flattest 

side down. Using a teaspoon, 

place dots of Toasted Coconut 

Cream on each fritter and on 

each plate. Sprinkle with lime 

leaves and garnish with mint 

leaves. Serve immediately. 

In a bowl, mix rice flour with ¼ cup 

(60 mL) of coconut cream to form 

a paste. In a medium saucepan, 

mix remaining coconut cream with 

flour paste over medium heat, 

whisking vigorously to incorporate. 

Add salt and toasted coconut. 

Bring to a boil, and cook for approximately 

5 minutes, stirring constantly. 

When coconut cream has 

thickened, remove from heat immediately. 

Add sugar, and stir until 

dissolved. Add additional sugar to 

reach desired sweetness. Set aside 

at room temperature to cool. 

Use immediately or transfer to an 

airtight container and store in the 

refrigerator for up to 1 week. 

Makes 1 ¾ cups (435 mL) 

Serves 4 

Toasted Coconut Cream 

Toasted Coconut Cream can be 

served warm or cold. 

1/2 cup (125 mL) fine unsweetened 

shredded coconut 

1 tsp (5 mL) rice flour 

1 cup (250 mL) coconut cream, 

divided 

pinch of salt 

2 Tbsp (30 mL) white sugar, or 

more to taste 

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 

Spread coconut in a thin layer 

on a baking sheet, and place in 

oven. Toast for 8 to 10 minutes 

or until golden brown. Remove 

from oven, and allow to cool 

on the baking sheet at room 

temperature.



the lighter side 

Breaking Bread 

By KYM WOLFE 

’ 

Tis 

the season to eat, drink and 

be merry. Raise a toast. Go 

wassailing. Clink glasses as you 

ring in the New Year. Memories 

of Christmas past bring to mind tables 

groaning under the weight of everyone’s 

favourite dishes, from turkey and trimmings, 

to Nanny’s tourtières, to Baba’s cabbage rolls 

and pierogies. 

Best to be careful if you’re driving home 

after dinner! Turkey is said to be soporific, and 

no one wants to fall asleep behind the wheel. 

And family lore includes the story of a relative 

who got a warning when he blew 

dangerously close to the limit, 

all the while protesting that he 

hadn’t had anything to drink … 

then realizing that he must have 

had one too many slices of Aunt 

Mabel’s infamous rum cake. 

Feasting and festing have long 

gone hand in hand, all the way back 

to our cave dwelling days. But communal 

eating and drinking habits have changed 

over time. Back in the day, people were apt 

to eat from the same platter and drink from 

the same cup. Rumour has it that raising a 

toast has its roots in an old British custom. 

The host would float a piece of spiced, 

cooked bread in the common cup, and once 

it had made the rounds he would have the 

pleasure of draining it to the last drop and 

eating the toasted bread. 

Current etiquette requires us to provide 

a separate drinking glass for each of our 

guests, and while some serve up food on 

family platters, it’s also common to eat 

from separate plates. But the sense of 

connectedness that comes from sharing a 

meal really transcends time and cultures. 

Enjoying a new romance? Connecting with 

an old friend? Sealing a business deal? 

Wherever you are in the world, chances are 

there will be some eating and drinking. 

Sometimes it such a regular part of daily 

life — coffee with colleagues; lunch or 

drinks with friends; nightly family dinners 

— that we simply take it for granted. But 

food and drink — and by extension, food 

and drink establishments — have an 

impact on our sense of community. Places 

where we eat and drink can water and feed 

our souls. They are the places where the 

regulars feel at home, and familiarity breeds 

connectedness. As New Zealander Theodore 

Graves found when he was doing research 

into pubs, “One of the major functions of 

moderate alcohol use is to promote social 

conviviality. But it is the conviviality, not the 

alcohol, which is of central importance.” 

Sourcing our daily sustenance 

can also be a social experience. 

Locally owned and operated 

eateries and food retailers are 

woven tightly into the fabric 

of their communities. Take 

London’s Old East Village, for 

example — a neighbourhood that 

provides a feast for foodies. The village is 

dotted with several authentic ethnic restaurants, 

an organic café and micro-brewery, a 

butcher, a baker, a chocolate maker, a beanto-brew 

coffee roaster and a gourmet cheese 

shop. These are the kinds of places where 

the person behind the counter gets to know 

the regulars by sight, and often by name. 

And then there’s the Saturday Western Fair 

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, with its amazing 

selection of edibles, and all the ingredients 

you’ll need when you are planning to break 

bread with family and friends. When you 

walk into the Confederation Building on a 

Saturday morning and hear the steady hum of 

conversation and laughter, you know that you 

have landed in a place that connects people — 

to each other, to local food producers, to our 

roots as an agricultural community. And you 

can even buy a bottle of wine (and a loaf of 

spiced bread) if you want to toast to that! 

Research for her books Barhopping Into History: London, 

Ontario and Hopping Into History: London’s Old East Village 

led writer KYM WOLFE to some interesting eating and 

drinking establishments. Visit her at www.kymwolfe.com

• Chris’ Country Cuts 

• Doris Family Produce 

• Field Gate Organics 

• Forrat’s Chocolates 

At The Market 

• Fraumeni’s Fruits & Vegetables 

• Glenda’s 

• Hasbeans 

• Havaris Produce 

• Hot Oven 

• International Bakery 

• Kleiber’s Deli 

• Manito’s Rotisserie 

& Sandwich Shop 

• Nate’s Shawarma 

• Olive R. Twists 

• Petit Paris 

• Sebastian’s 

• Seoul Seafood Shoppe 

• Smith Cheese 

• Snack ‘N Bake 

• Tanakaya 

• Thai Delight 

• Taylor Sue’s 

• The Chocolate Factory 

• The Ice Creamery 

• The Little Red Roaster 

• The Market Deli 

• The New Delhi Deli 

• The Piping Kettle Soup Co. 

• The Rice Box 

• The Salad Bowl 

• The Tea Haus 

• Waldo’s Bistro On King 

• Andrew Gillet’s The Studio 

• Bloomers At The Market 

• Carpe Diem Massage Therapy 

• Collected Works 

• CTV Two 

• Forget Me Not Flowers & More 

• Happy Wear 

• Homeopathy London 

• Kwik Fix 

• London Community Foundation 

• Market Kitchen 

• Market Lottery 

• Original Kids Theatre Company 

• The Barkery 

• Tina’s Treasury 

• Y.O.U. Made It 

Market Hours: 

Mon. to Thurs. • 8am – 6pm 

Friday • 8am – 7:30pm 

Sat. • 8am – 6pm • Sun. • 11am – 4pm 

Outdoor Farmers’ Market 

Open May through to December 

Thurs. • 8am – 2pm & Sat. • 8am – 1pm 

Free Parking: 

2 Hours Sat. & Sun. • 1/2 Hour Mon. – Fri. 

with validation, no purchase required • during market hours only 

coventmarket.com 

/coventgardenmarket

Eatdrink #56 November/December 2015 issue

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