KNITmuch | Issue 01

anptmag

Here it is! The much anticipated FREE Premiere issue of KNITmuch Magazine! We’re extremely excited to launch this first issue featuring a full 52 pages of knitting projects, tips, techniques, and products. In this issue, you’ll find a review of the NEW Downton Abbey Yarn Collection and the irresistible Top This! yarn kit. See the Crawley Vest and Budding Romance Shawl patterns for great project ideas using the new Downton Abbey yarns. We also review a variety of project ideas to make with Red Heart’s Cutie Pie and Sashay yarns. We go back to knitting basics to inspire new knitters to expand their knowledge of knitting and get to the bottom of key technical knitting terms and skills. Enjoy exploring our very first issue. Save it in your favorites, share it with your knitting friends!

Issue 1

NEW!

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14

• 14 knitting tutorials

• 7 knitting projects perfect for the holidays

• 4 yarn reviews

• 4 essential tips when knitting for babies

• 1 cable pattern you'll ever need to memorize!

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Introducing the NEW Downton Abbey Yarn Collection!

Knit a vest for Matthew with Downton Abbey Yarn

KNIT...to knit, is to love

The Crawley Vest

Knit a shawl for Lady Mary with Downton Abbey Yarn

Hooked on Books

Adding some sparkle to your holiday

much

knitting

The Budding Romance Shawl

KNIT...to Honeycomb Poncho

K, is to

Knitting a Top This! hat

How to fix a dropped knit stitch

Knitting with cables – C4L

Knitting with cables – C4R

A better one-row buttonhole

Pom-poms – the cutest knitted accessories, right?

Stitch holders are safety nets for your knitting

What you should know about Red Heart Cutie Pie yarn

4 essential tips when knitting for babies

Hand knit snuggle sack

Creative cabled cowl

The benefits of knitting with Red Heart Sashay Fringe yarn

contents

KNITmuch | issue 1

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4 KNITmuch | issue 1


Welcome to our premiere issue of KNITmuch!

editor's letter

Share the love of knitting. Own the obsession.

If you're like me you'll understand my obsession with

knitting, I am most happy to know that I'm not alone.

Knitting is not only about making striking knitwear in the

yarn I love, and the colors I adore and look great it. Knitting

is what makes some scenarios of life, bareable. It's what

makes long car rides short, it's what helps me exercise my

skill in patience and grace when waiting for someone, and

it's what helps me gather my wits at the end of the day,

with a cup of tea, naturally.

It's comforting to know there are so many knitters like you

and I who share a deep love for yarn, and understand it's

not a twisted concept, and that so many of you have the

same unquenchable thirst for anything related to knitting.

It's a great thrill to see friends picking up knitting needles

for the first time and getting hooked on it, which always

leads to happy knit-a-longs! Life is so sweet.

I hope you'll love this first issue and that you'll look forward

to more. It's meant to be shared with those you know share

the same passion for knitting, and for those you think

would love to learn to knit.

Just when I thought life couldn't get any sweeter... check

out the NEW Downton Abbey Yarn Collection with yarn

review and patterns included. We also review Red Heart's

Cutie Pie, Sashay Fringe and Top This! hat kit - perfect for

holiday gift making. Get yours today!

follow me on

5


KNIT

...to

much

K, is to

much KNIT...to knit, is to love

much KNIT...to K, is to

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR

Carla A. Canonico

carla@KNITmuch.com

ADVERTISING SALES

John De Fusco

john@KNITmuch.com

PUBLISHER

A Needle Pulling Thread

PHOTOGRAPHERS

John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico

BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS

Glenna Harris

crazyknittinglady.wordpress.com

Michelle Nguyen

www.stitchesbeslippin.com

GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN

Carla A. Canonico

Carla@KNITmuch.com

Sondra Armas

Sondra@KNITmuch.com

WEBSITE / BLOG : www.KNITmuch.com

Like us on Facebook : KNITmuch

Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag

WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY

KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published

by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for

personal use online at www.KNITmuch.com.

A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch

are available for purchase at select yarn shops

and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop.

KNITmuch is not available by subscription.

YARN SHOPS

If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your

store, please email john@KNITmuch.com.

EDITORIAL

Bloggers, designers and other contributors who

would like to be considered for future issues

please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief

description of your work and your proposed

project.

© 2015 Coats & Clark 15-024

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the

©2015 A Needle Pulling Thread. All rights reserved.

Issue #1.

No part of this publication may be reproduced

without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine

are for private, non-commercial use only, and are

copyrighted material owned by their respective

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www.TheNeedleworkPages.com

find a

local shop!

9 listings

9 reviews

9 events

9 new products

9 free patterns

9 blogs

& more!

pages


Sparkly

& Stylish

Sparkle in this stylish top

knit with Red Heart ®

Boutique Swanky .

Diamond Girl Top

LW4397

This and other free patterns

available at redheart.com

KNITmuch | issue 1

7


I

ntroducing

Glenna Harris

the NEW Downton Abbey Yarn Collection!

In this issue, it is with great

excitement that we introduce a

new set of yarns! The Downton

Abbey Yarns are new for this fall

and winter season, and feature

four different yarns, each named

after a different character on

the Downton Abbey show. We're

thrilled to cover two of the new yarns

in this issue, Matthew and Lady

Mary yarns, and go over patterns

and ideas for how to work with them.

he other two, Branson and Lady Sybil,

will be covered in our next issue.

New yarns can lead to great new

knitting projects!

If you haven’t had the chance to

branch out to different kinds of

fiber combinations in your knitting

projects so far, the Downton Abbey

Yarns will give you the chance to try

out a few interesting blends. If you’re

(like me) a fan of the show Downton

Abbey, you might be able to guess

what kinds of yarn have been made

for each character! The Matthew

yarn (pictured above) includes some

tweedy wool for a very rustic look.

Can’t you imagine him walking

around the Crawleys’ estate in a vest

made from this flecked yarn?

The Matthew yarn is a worsted weight

blend of wool/acrylic/viscose and

would be so versatile for accessories,

garments, or even blankets and

pillows. There are a lot of possibilities

and the color selection is very much

in line with the outdoors palette, lots

of naturals and rustic tones. The dark

purple (far below) is another great

color in this line, and many would

be great choices for either men’s or

women’s projects.

On the other hand, Lady Mary makes

us think a bit more about the elegant

indoor social life side of things! So

it’s no surprise that the Lady Mary

yarn line includes a bit of shiny silvery

thread woven through the yarn. I

think this would be a perfect yarn for

holiday accessory projects. Shawls,

scarves, and fingerless mitts would be

lovely with that extra touch of shine.

This is just the first hint of what we’ll

be showing off this week. We’ll look at

some of the patterns designed just for

these yarns – available in this issue!

There are a lot of knitting and crochet

projects to choose from out there so

finding three or four that you like for

even just one yarn, can seem like a

very short list some days. But, I think

that’s half the fun. New yarns can lead

to great new knitting projects!

Read on and find two exciting and

elegant patterns: Crawley Vest and

The Budding Romance Shawl.

Knitting in Downton Abbey style

8 KNITmuch | issue 1


The new

Downton Abbey Yarns

are fun to knit with

and so versatile.

The Lady Mary yarn

line includes sparkly

threads woven

through the yarn, for

extra elegance!

The Matthew yarn

line is a tweedy blend

including 25% wool, for

a rustic tweedy effect.

KNITmuch | issue 1

9


Knit

Glenna Harris

a vest for Matthew with Downton Abbey Yarn

The Matthew yarn, which is a worsted

weight blend including 20% wool, has

a nice tweedy look. Just right for a

character like Matthew who spends a lot

of time outside on the Crawley estate, or

cycling to his work office.

The Matthew yarn has several great free

patterns designed by Premier Yarns to go

with it, including the Crawley Vest. The vest

is one of the few garment patterns included

in the Downton Abbey Yarn Collection, and

it would be a nice selection if you're new to

making garments. Making the jump from

smaller accessories to larger garments can

often involve a different selection of skills

and techniques. However, since vests cover

the body but don’t include sleeves, as

pullovers and cardigans do, a vest can be a

good “starter” garment. And, in a worsted

weight yarn like this one, it will knit up a bit

faster than a lighter DK or sport weight yarn.

This is a classic V-neck vest with a simple

textured stitch pattern. We introduced some

slipped stitch patterns in our September

KNITmuch blog posts, so you might enjoy

looking at those posts if this is new to you!

When knitting up this vest, these are the

skills you can expect to use:

• Casting on and binding off

• Working knit, purl, and slip stitches

• Working ribbing (for hem, and armhole

and neckband edgings)

• Following a written stitch pattern (the

pattern does not include charts)

• Sewing seams

• Picking up stitches (for armhole and

neckband edgings)

This vest is worked in pieces (as opposed

to “in the round” in one piece) and from the

“bottom up” starting at the hem (as opposed

to “top down” starting from the neck). The

back and the front are worked the same,

with the exception of the front V-neck

shaping. So, this means that once you've

made the back piece you'll have done

most of the same steps required for the

front piece. Finally, these two pieces will be

seamed together at the sides and shoulders,

before picking up stitches for the ribbed

neckband and armhole edgings.

In the photos here, you can see the

swatches I’ve done up in the slip-stitch

“furrows” pattern used in the Crawley Vest.

Sometimes it can make all the difference to

see different color selections! The sample

shown in the free pattern uses a dusty green

color, and here we have two other options.

The creamy off-white shown in the photo

on the next page is a very classic look. The

darker purple is another almost-neutral

color that’s a little more modern. There are

eight different colors to choose from in

the Matthew yarn so just keep in mind the

kind of colors you like to wear most in your

wardrobe and let that be your guide when

selecting yarn colors as well!

I’m excited to be dreaming

up fall and winter knitting

projects with these new

Downton Abbey Yarns

arriving fresh on the

crafting scene!

10 KNITmuch | issue 1

Photos by Glenna Harris


KNITmuch

Standard abbreviations & terms

The Crawley vest uses this

simple textured pattern and is a

versatile and cozy knit. Imagine

it in this creamy off-white color

and this lovely autumnal purple.

alt = alternate

approx = approximately

beg = begin(ning)

BO= bind off

CC = contrast colour

ch = chain

cm = centimetre(s)

cn = cable needle

CO = cast on

cont = continue, continuing

dc = double crochet

dec = decrease(s), decreasing

dpn = double-pointed needle(s)

foll = following

g = gram(s)

inc = increase(s), increasing

in(s) = inch(es)

k = knit

kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase)

k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)

K3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning

decrease)

M = marker

m = metre(s)

M1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand

between 2 stitches from front to back and knit

it tbl (lifted increase)

MC = main colour

mm = millimetre(s)

oz = ounce(s)

p = purl

p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease)

patt = pattern

pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase)

pm = place marker

psso = pass slipped stitch over

RS = right side

rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat

rev = reverse

rnd = round

sc = single crochet

sl = slip

skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over

knit st (dec)

ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time,

insert left-hand needle into front of both sts

and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease)

Sssk = Slip next three stitches individually, knitwise.

Insert tip of left needle from front to back

into the fronts of these three stitches and knit

them together (double left-leaning decrease)

st(s) = stitch(es)

St st = stocking stitch

tbl = through back loop

tog = together

tr = treble crochet

WS = wrong side

yo = yarn over

KNITmuch | issue 1

11


CRAWLEY VEST

DA00003

SIZES

Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large)

Shown in Small Size

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 37 (43, 46, 49, 55)”

MATERIALS

Downton Abbey Matthew by Premier Yarns (75%

Acrylic, 21% Wool, 4% Viscose; 100g/230 yds)

• # DA4001-05 Herb Green – 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) balls

Needle: US Size 8 (5 mm) and US Size 9 (5.5 mm) straight

needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, stitch holder

or locking ring marker

GAUGE

16 Left sts Armhole x 30 rows Edging = 4” in Furrows pattern on larger needle

Save Sew left time, shoulder check your and gauge. Neckband seam. Work as for Right

Armhole edging.

Sew side seams. Weave in ends.

CRAWLEY V

Photo courtesy of Premier Yarns

The Crawley Vest knitted up in the

Matthew yarn of the new Downton Abbey

Yarn Collection – Herb Green color

Abbreviations

beg begin(ning)

k knit

k2tog knit 2 sts together (1 st dec’d)

meas measures

p purl

patt pattern

RS right side

rep repeat(ing)

sl slip

ssk slip slip knit (1 st dec’d)

st(s) stitch(es)

s2kp slip two sts knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over

(2 sts dec’d)

WS wrong side

Downton and Downton Abbey® ©2015 Carnival Film & Television Limited. All Rights Reserved.

12 KNITmuch | issue 1


CRAWLEY VEST

STITCH GUIDE

Furrows (multiple of 6 sts + 3)

Row 1 and 3(RS): P3, *k1, sl 1, k1, p3; rep from * to end.

Row 2: *K3, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Rows 5 and 7: K4, *sl 1, k5; rep from * to last 5 sts, sl 1, k4.

Row 6 and 8: Purl.

Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

P2, K1 Ribbing (multiple of 3 sts)

Row 1 (RS): *P1, *k1, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1.

Row 2: K1, *p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Rep Rows 1 & 2 for patt.

VEST

Back

With smaller needle, cast on 75 (87, 93, 99, 111) sts. Work in

P2, K1 Ribbing for 2”, ending with a WS row. Switch to larger

needles and work in Furrows until piece meas 16 (17 ½, 17 ½, 17

¾, 17 ¾)”, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping

Bind off 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 67 (79, 81, 87,

99) sts.

Dec Row: K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 – 2 sts

dec’d.

Rep Dec Row 1 (5, 4, 6, 11) more times – 63 (67, 71, 73, 75) sts.

Work even in patt until armhole meas 7 ½ (8, 8 ½, 9 ¼, 9 ¼)”,

ending with a WS row.

Next Row: K15 (16, 18, 19, 19), join new yarn and bind off 33 (35,

35, 35, 37) sts, knit to end.

Working each side separately, work even in patt until armhole

meas 8 ½ (9, 9 ½, 10 ¼, 10 ¼)”, ending with a WS row. Bind off.

Front

Work as for back until armholes meas 2 (2, 2 ½, 2 ½, 2 ½)”,

ending with a WS row. Continue armhole shaping as for back,

AT THE SAME TIME work neck and shoulder shaping as

follows:

Left Shoulder

Knit to center st and place on a st holder or locking ring

marker, turn and work on these sts only.

Next Row: Work in patt to end.

Dec Row: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Rep last two rows 15 (16, 16, 16, 17) more times.

Work even in patt on 15 (16, 18, 19, 19) rem sts until armhole

meas 8 ½ (9, 9 ½, 10 ¼, 10 ¼)”.

Bind off.

Right Shoulder

With RS facing, join yarn at center front and work Dec Row as

follows:

Dec Row: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.

Next Row: Work in patt to end.

Rep last two rows 15 (16, 16, 16, 17) more times.

Work even in patt on 15 (16, 18, 19, 19) rem sts until armhole

meas 8 ½ (9, 9 ½, 10 ¼, 10 ¼)”.

Bind off.

FINISHING

Right Armhole Edging

Sew right shoulder seam. Using smaller needle, with RS facing,

pick up and knit evenly across armhole, adjusting st count as

needed to work a multiple of 3 sts. Work P2, K1 Ribbing for 1”.

Bind off.

Neckband

With RS facing and smaller needle, starting at left shoulder,

pick up and knit evenly along neck edge to held center st.

Place stitch on right needle leaving locking ring marker on

center st. Pick up sts along right neck edge to shoulder seam,

pick up sts along back neck to left shoulder making sure to

adjust st count as needed to work a multiple of 3 sts.

Next Row (WS): Work Row 2 of P2, K1 Ribbing to marked

center st, p1, work in patt to end.

Next Row (RS): Work Row 1 of P2, K1 Ribbing to one st before

marked st, s2kp, work in patt to end.

Rep last two rows, moving marker up each row until Neckband

meas 1”.

Bind off loosely.

Left Armhole Edging

Sew left shoulder and Neckband seam. Work as for Right

Armhole edging.

CRAWLEY V

Sew side seams. Weave in ends.

For more free patterns from the Downton Abbey Yarn Collection, Abbreviations visit www.premieryarns.com/DowntonAbbey

beg begin(ning)

k knit

© 2015 Premier® Yarns All rights reserved.

This pattern may not be reproduced k2tog for business, knit trade 2 sts or together sale. (1 st dec’d)

meas measures

p purl

KNITmuch | issue 1

patt pattern

13


Knit

Glenna Harris

a shawl for Lady Mary with Downton Abbey Yarn

Knitters, do you have holiday knitting on

your mind, yet? I’m not just talking about

gift knitting, but knitting for yourself! Let's

take a closer look at the Lady Mary yarn

from the Downton Abbey Yarn Collection,

and this is something you might want to

keep for yourself if you're interested in a

bit of a sparkly treat just for you. Indulgent

knitting can lift your spirits!

The Budding Romance Shawl is a free

pattern designed with the Lady Mary yarn in

mind, and is a very pretty rectangular shawl

that would be just right for the holidays.

It would make a generous gift or a great

personal knit for yourself – I can just picture

wearing this with a little black dress to a party.

The shawl pattern uses a repeating lace

pattern which is shown below in a couple of

swatches in different colors. The Lady Mary

yarn comes in a number of different colors,

both brights and neutrals. It's amazing how

different the pattern can look when we

change only the color but everything else

stays the same!

If you've never tried a lace stitch before, this

will be a fun challenge for you. The main

trick with working a lace pattern is that you'll

be doing a combination of decreases as well

as yarnovers. To make a “yarnover” means

to bring your yarn forward to the front of

the needle, then work the next knitted stitch

or knitted decrease as indicated. It creates

the little eyelets that form the lace patterns,

along with those decreases. You can see

in the swatches just above and just below,

the decreases and yarnovers do sit in a

purposeful order, making a repeating pattern.

When knitting up this shawl, these are the

skills you can expect to use:

• Cast on and bind off

• Work knit, purl, decreases, and yarnovers

• Follow a lace stitch pattern (written

instructions, not a chart)

• Work flat, back and forth (as opposed to

'in the round')

The nice thing about this kind of pattern is

that, once you have established the stitch

pattern after the first couple of repeats,

you get to continue working along in a

straight rectangular piece. Unlike a garment

or some other accessories, you can simply

knit to the indicated length of the pattern

without having to worry about stopping to

work decreases or increases for shaping the

item. This makes it easier to concentrate on

getting the stitch pattern right, rather than

the shape of the garment itself.

Can you see the sparkle coming from these

little swatches? The Lady Mary yarn has that

silvery touch from some metallic thread

that’s woven into the yarn, which is the

unique feature of this yarn line. As a result I

think it will be a great selection for holiday

projects or a number of simple accessories

that would make it easy to show off the

sparkle. You probably don’t want to try

cables or color-work with this kind of

yarn as the shiny quality would get a

little lost in the pattern.

There are so many project

possibilities, especially for

beautiful gift projects or gifts

to yourself! Indulgent knitting

can lift your spirits!

14 KNITmuch | issue 1


The Budding Romance Shawl

uses this beautiful lace stitch. Try

your hand at some lace knitting

with this pattern! How lovely

would this silvery grey look as a

festive winter stole? ...so many

gorgeous colors to choose from.

Photo courtesy of Premier Yarns

Budding Romance Shawl

knit with Lady Mary yarn

from the Downton Abbey Yarn

Collection. The Lady Mary line

has an elegant sparkle.

Photos by Glenna Harris

KNITmuch | issue 1

15


hooked on books

Knit the Sky

By Lea Redmond

In Knit the Sky, designer/artist Lea Redmond invites

knitters of all levels to join her adventurous knitting

journey with projects that will make you think outside

the craft box. More than a knitting book, Knit

the Sky is a unique collection of 30 creativity starters

that has you knitting using practical things found in

the weather, your neighbourhood, your travels and

more! It’s filled with illustrations to fall in love with,

and you’ll cherish the book from page 1 to 168 as

you create knitted memories!

168 pages, Hardcover, ISBN 978-1-61212-333-2

The Taunton Press

www.thomasallen.ca

Knit Christmas Stockings

Edited by Gwen W. Steege

Make this holiday one your family will remember forever!

With these 19 fun, simple patterns, even first-time

knitters can create beautiful knitted Christmas stockings,

as well as delightful knit and felt ornaments for the

Christmas tree.

136 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-252-6

www.storey.com

One-Skein Wonders for Babies

101 Knitting Projects for Infants & Toddlers

by Judith Durant

This irresistible collection offers 101 original knitting

projects for babies and toddlers – each using

just a single skein of yarn! From mittens and hats

to tees, sweaters, hoodies, pants, dresses, socks,

and bootees, you’ll find the perfect wearable for

every child and every occasion. You’ll also discover

beautiful bibs, blankets, and sleep sacks, plus

adorable stuffed toys, blanket buddies, and more.

These beautiful projects were contributed by

designers and crafters around the world, and each

comes with complete step-by-step instructions

and a photograph of the finished piece.

288 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-480-3

Storey Publishing

www.thomasallen.ca

Knitting Fabric Rugs

Karen Tiede

This is a book with invaluable information on not only

how to make rugs, but also includes a lesson in color

combinations, the A to Z on how to recycle materials

to make the rugs, and the process of making rugs. Add

color to your floors and living space with these 28 colorful

designs for crafters of every level. Take your knitting

to an exciting new adventure and enjoy the softness of

these rugs underfoot or displayed on the wall for extra

color boost!

178 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-448-3

www.storey.com

Beanies & Bobble Hats

by Fiona Goble

What more to say about this very hip and cool book

including 36 colour designs for beanies, berets, bobble

hats and more for the young and young at heart? This

is an indispensable collection of knitted accessories if

you’re contemplating making knitted gifts for Christmas.

Look around your neighbourhood, many wear beanies

and hats all year round as a fashion accessory! Hats are

quick to make even for novice knitters. Cables, special

stitches, as well as simple and mindless knitting stitches

are explored in the variety of styles. My favourite…? The

knitted golden crown!

130 pages, ISBN 978-78249-196-5

Cico Books

www.thomasallen.ca

Arm and Finger Knitting

by Laura Strutt

If you like large-scale knits or you appreciate the

bigger stitches and open texture you can achieve

by knitting with your arms or fingers, then you will

find plenty of inspiration in Arm and Finger Knitting.

Breaking free from the constraints of normal needle

sizes, Laura Strutt demonstrates how to do all the

usual stitches and techniques using just your arms

and hands, from plain garter stitch to moss stitch,

increasing and decreasing, and knitting with two

or more strands of yarn at a time. To make the best

use of the unique texture and scale of no-needle

knitting, she has designed 35 stylish projects for you

to make, for the home and to wear.

112 pages, ISBN 978-1-78249-208-5

Cico Books

www.thomasallen.ca

16 KNITmuch | issue 1


If you’re thinking about gift knitting

already – or perhaps need a little nudge

towards thinking about gift knitting – we

have a few things in mind. We’ve already

shown you a couple of patterns made

just for the NEW Downton Abbey Yarn

Collection, here some selections from

the vast knitting internet to give you

more ideas! Let’s take a look again at the

Lady Mary yarn this awesome collection,

which can be both elegant and fun

because of that extra bit of metallic

thread. It’s never too early to start gift

knitting and adding some sparkle to your

holiday knitting!

The Lady Mary yarn is listed as a light

yarn weight in category 3, in other

words as a DK weight or “light worsted.”

This makes it versatile for projects

needing 5-6 stitches per inch in gauge.

Knitted more firmly it would make an

extremely stiff fabric, for knitting threedimensional

ornaments and baubles,

and knitted more loosely it would be

enjoyable for lacy projects, as in the

Budding Romance shawl pattern.

One lovely and quick gift idea is this

Mini Mitten pattern. It uses doublepointed

needles and can be done easily

within an evening – make a pair for a

unique present-topper or ornament! Or

perhaps a bookmark? Or, how about this

little stocking pattern, for a similar festive

ornament project?

Another great gift idea that I like are

these knitted coffee cozies. If you know

people who enjoy their daily dose of

caffeine, save them the trouble of always

throwing out those cardboard cup cozies

they provide at cafes, and give them

a re-usable one instead! Knitted in a

sparkly color like this yarn, they will be

less likely to forget it!

Or, try a simple hat pattern – hats

make very quick gift projects. With the

metallic component we don’t need to

look at cables or color-work patterns

since the pattern and sparkle would

compete too much.

Adding some

sparkle

to your holiday knitting

Glenna Harris

The Lady Mary yarn from the new

Downton Abbey yarns includes

metallic thread for extra sparkle.

These are just a few fun ideas – there are

so many to choose from! When trying a

new yarn it’s always a good idea to buy

one or two skeins to play with before committing

to a big project, if you’re thinking

about something larger. So, these are all

one-skein-or-less projects to get you started.

And remember, it’s never too early to

think about gift knitting while adding some

sparkle to your holiday knitting!

KNITmuch | issue 1

17


BUDDING ROMANCE SHAWL

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Length: 60”

Width: 20”

MATERIALS

Downton Abbey Lady Mary by Premier Yarns (95%

Acrylic, 5% Metallic; 85g/290yds)

• #DA4004-06 Lily Ice – 4 balls

Needle: US Size 8 (5 mm) straight needles or size

needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Tapestry needle

GAUGE

20 sts x 19 rows = 4” in Little Buds patt

Save time, check your gauge.

DA00001

Downton and Downton Abbey® ©2015 Carnival Film & Television Limited. All Rights Reserved.

18 KNITmuch | issue 1


BUDDING ROMANCE SHAWL

STITCH GUIDE

Little Buds (multiple of 8 sts + 3)

Row 1 (RS): K1, *yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k6; rep from * to last 10 sts, yo,

sl 1, k1, psso, k8.

Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Purl.

Row 3, 5, and 7: K2, *yo, k2, cdd, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to last

9 sts, yo, k2, cdd, k2, yo, k2.

Row 9: K5, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k6; rep from * last 6 sts, sl 1, k1,

psso, k4.

Row 11, 13, and 15: K1, k2tog, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, cdd; rep from *

to last 8 sts, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k1, psso.

Row 16: Purl.

Rep Rows 1-16 for patt.

Garter and Eyelet (multiple of 2 sts)

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2: Knit.

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: P1, yo, p2tog; rep from * to last st, p1.

Row 5: Knit.

Row 6: Knit.

Row 7: Knit.

Row 8: P1, *p2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, p1.

Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

Abbreviations

cdd central double decrease - slip 2 sts tog knitwise, knit

the next st, pass the 2 slipped stitches over knit st just

worked (2 sts dec’d)

k knit

k2tog knit 2 sts together (1 st dec’d)

meas measures

p purl

p2tog purl 2 sts together (1 st dec’d)

patt pattern

psso pass slipped stitch over

rep repeat(ing)

RS right side

s2kp

sl slip

WS wrong side

yo yarn over

GARMENT

Cast on 102 sts. Work Rows 1-8 of Garter and Eyelet.

Set-up Row: Work Garter and Eyelet over 8 sts, pm, work

Little Buds over 83 sts, pm, work Garter and Eyelet to end.

Work in patt as established, slipping markers as you come to

them until piece meas 59”, ending with a WS row.

Work Rows 1-8 of Garter and Eyelet removing markers on

Row 1.

Bind off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block lightly.

For more free patterns from the Downton Abbey Yarn Collection,

visit www.premieryarns.com/DowntonAbbey

© 2015 Premier® Yarns All rights reserved.

This pattern may not be reproduced for business, trade or sale.

KNITmuch | issue 1

19


20 KNITmuch | issue 1

Cathy Payson

www.redheart.com


skill level easy

finished measurements

Neck: 34" [86cm]

Hem: 45" [114cm]

Length: 15" [38cm]

Poncho fits most women.

materials

yarn

RED HEART® Boutique Twilight: 5 balls 9959 Mercury

(7 Jumbo) RED HEART® Boutique Twilight Art E829

available in 3.5oz [100g], 59yd [54m] balls

needles

US 15 [10mm]

yarn needle, stitch marker

gauge

8½ sts = 4" [10cm]; 16 rows = 4" [10cm] in Simple Garter

Lace Pattern. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size

needles to obtain the gauge.

SPECIAL STITCHES

P2tog = Purl 2 Stitches Together. Purl 2 sts together

(decrease).

Yfrn = Yarn Forward Round Needle. Bring yarn forward

and wrap around needle. It's worked as a yarn over

when worked between a knit stitch and a purl stitch

(increase).

PATTERN STITCH

Simple Garter Lace Pattern (multiple of 4 sts + 2)

All Rows: K2, *yfrn, p2tog, k2; repeat from * to end of

row. Repeat every row.

Notes:

Poncho is worked in rows. The 2 pieces (Front and Back) are

sew together. When casting on, leave a 25"

(64 cm) tail for seaming. When joining Front and Back pieces

together, use the “edge st” for seaming.

Honeycomb

poncho

The Honeycomb

Poncho is one of

those fairly quick

projects to make

for a cherished

someone on your

Christmas gift list.

PONCHO

Front and Back (make 2 pieces)

Cast on 48 sts.

Knit 1 row on Wrong Side.

Next Row (Right Side): K1 (edge st), work across row in

Simple Garter Lace Pattern to last st, k1 (edge st).

Place stitch marker to mark Right Side of work.

Keeping first and last sts in Stockinette St for edge

stitches, and center 46 sts in Simple Garter Lace

Pattern, continue until piece measures 14½" [37cm]

from cast on edge, ending with a Wrong Side row.

Next Row (Right Side): Knit across row decreasing 12 sts

evenly spaced—36 sts.

Next Row (Wrong Side): Knit all sts.

Next Row (Right Side): Bind off all sts leaving a 25" [64cm]

tail to sew side seam.

finishing

Join Front and Back pieces together using yarn needle

and Mattress St. Sew the “edge sts” together creating a

flat, invisible seam. Weave in ends.

abbreviations

yfrn = yarn forward around needle;

* or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated.

17"

[43 cm]

FRONT

&

BACK

22½"

[57 cm]

15"

[38 cm]

Photos courtesy of Red Heart

KNITmuch | issue 1

21


Knitting

a Top This! hat

Glenna Harris

Christmas is almost at our door. Although it's

a great plan to knit holiday gifts all year long,

there's always a person that pops on my Christmas

list at the last minute! I'm actually not

usually one of those people who plans to knit

Christmas gifts starting January, but I always try

to do better each year! Socks and hats come

to mind for small gifts for loved ones, and the

Top This! hat is the perfect knitted gift if you

have children on your holiday list.

If you're a relatively new knitterm hats are an

ideal project to help build up some knitting

skills beyond the basic knit and purl. Knitting

a hat will help you practice not just casting on

and knitting, but knitting in the round and knitting

some basic decreases. These are all great

building blocks for bigger projects. These kits

are made with self-striping yarn, which

changes color as you knit it – so, even

though there are stripes in these hats,

you never have to stop and change yarn

part way through.

Children’s hats like these are also often smaller

than adult projects, so you can finish them

faster and feel satisfied. One of these hats took

me only 2-3 episodes of Miss Fisher’s Murder

Mysteries on Netflix – it’s hard to beat that!

These kits have completely charmed me, I confess,

and I’m already making a list of the little

folks in my life who will be receiving them as

gifts. They come with enough yarn for a hat

as well as a little topper shaped like a little

animal or fun toy.

We’ll walk through the steps to make one, using

the grey and pink kitty, and the handsome green

and yellow elephant.

The first step of embarking on any knitting project

is to check that you’ve got the right knitting

needles to work with. If you’re working with a

brand new yarn, the best thing to do is check the

label first. All commercially available yarn labels

(or “ball bands”) will have a wealth of information

on them, including recommended needle size,

the fiber content (materials that the yarn is made

of), and washing instructions. In this case, the

yarn label also contains the hat pattern, on the

inside.

We can see from the fine print here that this

project requires 5.5mm/US #9 needles. Reading

ahead in the pattern instructions inside, we can

find out that these are recommended to be a

16''/40cm circular needle as well as double-pointed

needles. Other things we’ll need for this project

are things you'll often need on hand almost

all the time as a knitter, are stitch markers, yarn

needles for sewing in ends when it’s all finished,

and a row counter is optional if you like some help

tracking how many rounds or rows you’ve knitted.

22 KNITmuch | issue 1


So many animal

figures to

choose from the

Top This! hat kit

collection!

Ahhh, the trusted ball

band. Check it for all

pertinent information

for knitting up the

the zany Top This! hat.

Photos by Glenna Harris

KNITmuch | issue 1

23


Knitting

with

the

cable

cast on

Hats, in particular, are the perfect projects

for beginner knitters. They encompass so

many techniques in one little project that

offers relatively immediate satisfaction to

boot! They also make great last minute

knitted gifts. Let's get started on the

holiday gift list by knitting some children’s

hats using the sweet Top This! hat kits.

One of the first cast on techniques many

of us learn is the knitted cast on, which is

a great first step because its steps mimic

the knit stitch itself, so you can make the

most of all the new skills you're learning

as a new knitter. If you’re new to knitting,

learning a variety of cast on and bind off

techniques is one of the most valuable

steps you can take to expand your “tool

box” of skills. Many of us have a favorite

cast on or bind off that we use frequently,

so you never know if one of those new

techniques will become your new favorite!

The cable cast on makes a neat edge

that's a good choice for ribbing because

it looks equally neat and tidy no matter

if you’re looking at a “purl side” or “knit

side” of the fabric. It’s also similar to the

knitted cast on which makes it an easy

2nd cast on to learn. You don’t need it just

for cabled knitting, though, so don’t be

fooled by the name!

As we can see in the photos, the cable

cast on is just a little bit different from

the knitted cast on, with the main

difference that we start by inserting

the right needle between the first two

stitches on the left needle, rather than

through the actual first stitch.

These are the steps for the cable cast on:

1. Start by making a slip knot and placing

it onto the left needle. Make a 2nd stitch

knitwise by knitting into the slip knot and

placing that stitch back onto the left hand

needle. You now have 2 sts.

2. Next, insert the needle in between the

first 2 sts on the left hand needle.

3. Wrap the working yarn around the right

hand needle as you normally would when

making a knit stitch.

4. Pull the yarn through the two stitches to

the front of the work.

5. Place this new stitch back onto the left

hand needle, inserting the left hand

needle into the front of the stitch (this

twists the stitch around slightly).

6. Repeat steps 2-5 until you have the

number of stitches you need.

Above all, try to keep your cast on a little bit

loose – if the stitches are too tight then you

may end up with a very tight edge that's

hard to slip over your head.

The photos

demonstrate

the steps for the

cable cast on

24 KNITmuch | issue 1


Start with a slip knot, then knit a 2nd stitch using the

knitted cast on.

The Top This! hat kits recommend starting

with a 16''/40cm circular needle and then

switching to double-pointed needles once

you start decreasing at the top. However, if

you’re knitting a smaller size, you might find

it hard to fit the stitches around the circular

needle, in which case you can start with the

double-pointed needles (above) by dividing

the stitches equally around 3 working needles.

Use a 4th needle for knitting.

Now we’re ready to knit onwards!

Insert your needle between the stitches, not into a stitch.

Larger hat sizes can easily use a 16"/40cm circular needle to

hold all stitches in the round.

Wrap the yarn as if to knit a stitch.

Keep repeating these steps until you have the number of stitches

you need.

Pull the loop through as you would for making a stitch.

Place the stitch onto the left needle, inserting the left needle

through the ‘front’ of the stitch. This turns the stitch a little.

For smaller hat sizes you may need to use double-pointed needles.

Arrange your stitches equally among 3 working needles.

KNITmuch | issue 1

25


2

ways to knit a hat in the round, which is better?

Knitting in the

round requires

either circular

needles or

double-pointed

needles.

Have you ever knitted a project “in the

round” before? If you haven’t, a whole

world of new projects and tools await

you. Many knitters start off working

“flat” projects because it’s an easy way

to make a plain scarf or small blanket,

which make nice first projects. However,

knitting a hat in the round is also a great

project for new knitters. They are small

and quick to finish, and also make easy

gifts. There are more than 2 ways to knit

a hat in the round, but here are the two

more common ones using the sweetest

Top This! hats (one in pink, and one in

green) to demonstrate.

Tips to keep in mind when knitting in

the round.

1. When starting your first round, make

sure your right hand needle is the one

that has the working yarn hanging

from it. Then, when you knit the first

stitch on the left hand needle, you will

close that gap. This is called “joining

to work in the round.”

2. A common reminder is to “join to

work in the round, being careful not

to twist“. This means to make sure

that the cast on row is fully lined up

below the needle (as shown below),

rather than twisted around the needle

(almost like a mobius strip). When

you're knitting flat, you don’t need to

worry about this step, but it is very

important when knitting in the round.

3. Remember to use a stitch marker to

mark the beginning of your round.

Knitting pattern instructions will often

indicate this directly as “place marker”

or “pm” as an abbreviation. Keep

different colors of stitch markers on

hand for different uses in the pattern.

4. If you’re knitting with double-pointed

needles, like I’m using for the green

hat in the photo, you can’t place a

marker at the beginning of the round

since the beginning of the round

starts in between two of the needles.

Instead, place it after the first stitch

in the round, or clip it to the knitted

fabric itself and adjust its place every

so often as you knit more of the

project.

5. Double-pointed needles can feel

awkward at the beginning, as though

you’re holding too many things at

once! But, remember that you’re only

ever working with 2 of the needles at

once, and there will be 2 (or 3) other

needles at rest that are simply holding

the rest of the stitches in the round.

6. Try to keep things steady by resting

your 2 working needles on top of the

2 resting needles on either side. After

a while you’ll find yourself making this

adjustment automatically whenever

you move from one needle to the

next.

7. Most patterns will tell you to work the

first few rounds (or rows, if working

flat) in ribbing or another stitch that

will let the edge lie evenly (instead

of curling up on itself, like stockinette

stitch tends to do), and then change

to the pattern stitch for the rest of the

project. In this case our pattern stitch

is stockinette stitch (knitting every

round), so we need to count the

rounds of stockinette stitch to track

our progress.

26 KNITmuch | issue 1


Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

“join to work in the round, being careful not to twist“

With double-pointed needles, place the marker after the first stitch on the

first needle, to mark the beginning of the round.

Double-pointed needles can take a bit of practice to get used to.

You can use a row counter gadget to help count

your rounds (or rows), by turning the dial each time

you finish a round. If you’ve lost count and need

to just count them visually, just remember that one

of those little “V” shapes in the fabric is one stitch.

By counting how many of those “Vs” are stacked

on top of each other, you’ll get your count. Just

remember to always include the round that is on

your needle also. For example, in the picture below,

we can count 6 rounds of the pink yarn have been

knitted, plus the one on the needles so that actually

means we have knitted 7 rounds of pink.

Knitting in the round can be great television

knitting or “transit knitting” while on the go,

especially if you’re using a circular needle and

don’t ever have to worry about dropping a

needle by accident.

For these hats, we’ll knit several rounds of ribbing

to start, then continue in stockinette until it’s time to

work the decreases.

Counting how many rounds you have knitted is easy to do on stockinette stitch.

KNITmuch | issue 1

27


Making decreases

for your knitted hat

What the top of your hat will look like with all the

finished decreases.

Transfer your stitches to double-pointed needles for the

crown decreases.

Place stitch markers evenly around the needles as

indicated by the pattern.

The k2tog: knitting 2 stitches together.

Eventually the markers will be separated by only 1 stitch.

The next step to finishing our Top This! hat is to do the simple

stitch decreases needed to shape the crown of the hat, or the

very top of the hat.

For this kit, the decreases are worked as a simple spiral, where

the decreases are spaced evenly around each round. You can

see what this looks like in the first photo when it’s all finished.

The first thing you’ll need to do is transfer your stitches from

your circular needle (if you were using one) onto your double-pointed

needles (DPNs). As you decrease stitches, it will

be harder to fit them onto the fixed circumference of the circular

needle, so even if you start a hat with a circular needle

you’ll also need the DPNs in order to finish it.

The other step you’ll need to do is place stitch markers

around the needles, evenly spaced according to the pattern

instructions. Since we’re using the DPNs at this point, the

gap between 2 DPNs counts as a “marker”. So, we’ve got the

same number of stitches on each needle, and the same number

of stitches in between markers. Now we’re ready to start

the decreases!

There are many different ways to work stitch decreases in

knitting – as with many other techniques! In this case we're

working the “K2tog” decrease as indicated by the pattern in

the kit. This is the most simple decrease, which is simply to

“knit 2 stitches together.”

Our decrease rounds are simply to work to 2 stitches before

the marker, then work the k2tog. This involves inserting the

right hand (RH) needle through the first 2 stitches on the left

hand (LH) needle (as seen below), and then continue as you

usually would for a knit stitch by pulling the stitch through

and onto the RH needle.

As new knitters, many of us end up working the K2tog by

accident, not noticing that we are knitting 2 stitches together

instead of just one. Then we end up wondering why the stitch

count has changed, and figure out what went wrong. But in

this case we're doing the decreases on purpose!

For these hats this continues for every marker on every round,

until we're left with only 1 stitch between each pair of markers

(as seen below). At this point, your decreases are finished!

And probably the DPNs are starting to feel a little awkward

and wobbly with most of their stitches decreased away.

All that’s left now are the final finishing steps! These simple

stitch decreases are easy to work and get you almost to the

finish line!

28 KNITmuch | issue 1


Finishing your knitted hat the right way

The crown of your hat after all the decreases are finished.

Use a yarn needle to thread the working yarn through the

remaining stitches.

Sewing up the top.

Don’t forget to attach the fun topper!

We’re finally ready to finish up our Top This! hats. Finishing

your knitted hat is the last step, and involves sewing up the

top of the crown, weaving in any other loose ends of yarn,

and in this case, attaching the cute little animal topper that

comes with the kit.

When you’ve completed all the decreases, remove any stitch

markers you were using (they’ve finished their job now!) Cut

your working yarn, but leave a long tail of at least 8" if not

more.

Thread the end of the yarn onto a yarn needle, and thread

the needle through the remaining stitches while they're still

on the knitting needle as in the photo. Remove the knitting

needles as the stitches are threaded. When you’ve got all

remaining stitches threaded onto the yarn, pull it snug and if

you wish, thread the yarn through the stitches again for extra

security (next photo below). When you’re satisfied they are

secure, pull the needle through to the inside of the hat and

weave the yarn through a few stitches on the wrong side of

the work. Tie a knot and cut the yarn, leaving a short end.

Now these little cuties are all finished up and ready to be

worn or saved as gifts! If you’re like me and want to keep

up your knitting all year round, but don’t like big projects

taking up space in your lap during the summer, then knitting

hats are a nice way to keep some small projects in the mix. If

you can add to your gift knitting pile then that is almost like

having money in the bank! Finishing your knitted hat is the

last step in this quick and satisfying process.

KNITmuch | issue 1

29


How to fix a dropped knit stitch

Glenna Harris

The dropped stitch can happen when you least expect it! But it can be easily fixed.

Step 1: Secure the live stitch with a stitch marker so it doesn’t drop any further.

When was the last time you discovered

a dropped stitch in your

knitting? If you’re a new knitter

this might be a very stressful

situation! But I can tell you that

as knitter of more than 10 years,

I still drop stitches from time to

time. And, as long as you discover

the dropped stitch within

a few rows, you should be able

to fix it pretty easily.

The first thing to do, once you

discover the dropped stitch, is

to make sure it doesn’t drop

down any farther. Grab a stitch

marker (or safety pin) and close it

through the live stitch.

Next, you’ll need a crochet hook,

preferably one that's close to the

size of the needles you used to

knit your project. I used a 5.5mm

needle for this Top This! hat, and

didn’t have that exact crochet

hook size nearby so the 4.5mm

hook was the closest size I had

available. This is fine, since you’re

not actually going to be using

it for crochet, just to do a quick

pick-up.

To pick up the dropped stitch,

you’ll need to pick it up several

times, one on top of each other,

since there are several loose

strands there that need to be

corrected. This is actually fairly

simple. Follow these steps:

Step 2: Insert a crochet hook through the front of the stitch.

30 KNITmuch | issue 1


After securing the stitch and locating

your crochet hook, remove the stitch

marker and then insert the crochet

hook through the stitch as in the

photo.

Next, use the crochet hook to grab

the first loose strand above the

live stitch, and then pull that loop

through the stitch that is still on your

hook. Leave this newly pulled stitch

on the crochet hook, and repeat

those steps over and over again

until you have caught all of the loose

strands, one at a time. You’re done!

The line of stitches you’ve just picked

up will probably be a little bit looser

than the original knitted fabric was,

but once you’ve finished the project

and given it a wash, you’ll never

know the difference.

If you’ve managed to drop two or

three stitches, all right next to each

other, then you can still use this same

process but will need to work one

stitch at a time. It’ll be a little more

painstaking, but can be done.

The alternative, of course, is to simply

pull out your knitting as far as

the stitch has dropped, and re-knit

from that point. The choice is yours

about which would be more time

consuming or frustrating! Usually the

crochet hook solution is the faster

choice. Next time you find yourself in

this situation, you’ll know how to fix a

dropped knit stitch!

Step 3: Use the crochet hook to grab the loose bar just above the dropped stitch.

Pull that bar through the dropped stitch. Leave the pulled loop on the crochet

hook and repeat the process.

Photos by Glenna Harris

Place the last pulled-up stitch back on the needle, and you’re done! You’ll never

know the difference

KNITmuch | issue 1

31


Knitting with cables – C4L

Glenna Harris

Cable needles are essential tools for knitting cabled stitches!

A cable needle

is a tool that

every knitter

should have in

their tool kit!

Knitting with

cables – easier

than it seems!

Cable stitches are among the most

popular kinds of stitch patterns out

there. You don’t need to look very long

before coming across patterns that use

cables – socks, hats, scarves, sweaters

and mittens are all just as likely to

show off different kinds of cabled stitch

patterns. This makes cables an all-yearround

kind of technique, and one that is

very versatile to know.

Cables are made by manipulating the

stitches on your row of knitting so that

a few stitches switch places with other

stitches next to them on the needle.

Essentially, a cable stitch isn’t a new

kind of stitch, just a rearrangement

of other knit or purl stitches. So, the

cable needle is used to help with this

'rearrangement'!

easier than it seems!

All cables have a “direction.” They

travel either to the left or to the right,

depending on which direction the front

stitches move. In the picture above,

you can see three sets of 'right leaning'

cables on the right, and three sets of “left

leaning” cables on the left. All of these

stitches are worked as knit stitches, and

all are worked over 4 stitches in total.

In a knitting pattern, these would be

indicated as C4R for the right leaning

ones (cable four right), and C4L for the

left leaning ones (cable four left).

In the photos below we’ll demonstrate

the steps for working a C4L.

C4L means we are working over 4

stitches for the full cable. Typical

cables split this full number into two

halves, where one half of the stitches

travels in the front of the work. So,

here we’re working with 2 + 2 stitches.

32 KNITmuch | issue 1

Photos by Glenna Harris


Cable needles are essential tools for knitting cabled stitches!

C4L (left cable over 4 sts) Step 1: Slip 2 sts onto cable needle.

C4L (left cable over 4 sts) Step 2: Knit 2 sts from the left needle

First, take your cable needle and slip

the first 2 stitches onto it from the left

hand needle. This one has a notch in

the middle of the needle to allow these

stitches to settle into the middle and sit

more easily. Right now these stitches

are just hanging out, waiting to be used

again when they are next needed!

The next step is to knit the next 2

stitches as normal (as shown above).

This can feel a bit fidgety with the cable

needle attached to the work, but you’ll

get the hang of it with practice.

These two steps above will be described

in a knitting pattern something along

the lines of “slip 2 sts to cn and hold

in front, k2.” Cable needle is typically

abbreviated as “cn.”

The next and final step is to slip the

stitches on the cable needle back

onto the left hand needle, and then

knit these 2 stitches as normal. You

could even try knitting the stitches

directly from the cable needle, if you’re

comfortable with it!

And then, you’re done! On the left of

the photo above you can see a closeup

of the C4L cable, and how it leans to

the left. There are a few steps involved

in creating a simple cable like this, but

with practice you will get more quick

at it. Some knitters develop habits like

leaving the cable needle tucked behind

their ear like a pencil, or piercing it

through their sweater like a pin, to hold

onto it, ready to grab for the next cable.

In tomorrow’s post will look at the

opposite direction, C4R! Give the C4L a

try if it’s new to you, and see how you

like it. You may find knitting cables with

a cable needle is easier than you think!

C4L (left cable over 4 sts) Step 3: Slip the first 2 stitches back onto the

left hand needle, from the cable needle, then knit them as normal.

KNITmuch | issue 1

33


Knitting with cables – C4R

The C4R is worked very similarly to

the basic C4L cable – a cable over

4 stitches that leans to the left.

Cable needles are easy knitting

tools to use!

Cable needles come in different

varieties, but all are essentially a

shorter needle that holds a small

number of stitches for a very short

time. Cable stitches are worked by

manipulating traditional knit and

purl stitches, so they don’t create

any new stitches, they just rearrange

them. Below, we’ll demonstrate

the C4R cable.

Just like the C4L, because we’re

working over 4 stitches, the first

step is to slip 2 stitches onto the

cable needle. Typical cables work

with half the stitches at a time (although

that’s not always the case).

When slipping your stitches, slip

them “as if to purl”, in other words,

slip them so that you don’t twist

the stitches in the process.

The next step is to hold the cable

needle behind the work, as opposed

to holding it in front of the

work for the C4L. You can see in

the two photos above how this

looks. Again, the first time you do

this might feel a little awkward, but

that’ll get easier with practice!

The next steps proceed just as we

did with our C4L before – hold the

stitches on the cable needle, then

knit the next 2 stitches from the

left hand needle like normal. The

stitches on the cable needle are

waiting patiently, just held in back

instead of in front.

Finally, transfer the stitches from

the cable needle back to the left

hand needle, and then knit those

stitches like normal. That’s it!

You’ve done a C4R. Hold it up and

admire your handiwork.

Depending on the pattern you’re

using, cable stitches might be

written down as ‘back’ or ‘front’

cables instead of ‘right’ or ‘left’.

This refers to the placement of the

cable needle rather than the visual

direction of the cable.

So, a “C4R” and “C4B” are the

same thing, just as “C4L” and “C4F”

are the same. It’s more typical for

contemporary patterns to use the

left and right terminology, but

there are decades of knitting patterns

out there to knit from, so it’s

good to know just in case.

Either way, cable needles are easy

tools to learn to use and I hope

you’ll enjoy knitting with cables

this coming fall and winter! Stay

tuned tomorrow for knitting fun!

C4L – C4R combination

34 KNITmuch | issue 1


C4R (right cable over 4 sts) Step 1: Slip first 2 stitches onto a cable needle.

C4R (right cable over 4 sts) Step 3: Knit the next 2 stitches as normal.

C4R (right cable over 4 sts) Step 2: Hold the cable needle in back of the

work (behind the needles).

C4R (left cable over 4 sts) Step 4: Slip the 2 stitches from the cable needle

back onto the left hand needle, to knit as normal.

Holding the cable needle behind the work for C4R.

Beautiful knitwear is

made of the simple art

of knitting cables.

KNITmuch | issue 1

35


A better one-row buttonhole Glenna Harris

Whenever I go shopping for buttons I always

end up coming home with several

different kinds, even if I only need them

for one project at the time! Building up

a button collection of your own is a fun

task, so you’ll eventually be prepared and

ready for different button situations.

There are many different ways to knit a

button-hole. One of the first methods

many of us encounter is a two-row button-hole

method (shown second on that

page), where the knitter first binds off

stitches for the button-hole on the first

row, then on the second row coming back,

casts on new stitches over top of the gap

created by that first bind-off. This is an

easy way to get the hang of button-holes

at first, because all knitters know how to

do at least one basic bind-off and cast-on.

If you’re a knitter who has advanced to

sweaters – whether for adults or children

– you’ve probably encountered the need

for button-holes in your knitting! Button-holes

can be tricky to get the hang

of, and there are many different ways to

make them. Trying a new button-hole

technique could make all the difference

for your next cardigan project.

There’s also a huge variety of buttons out

there to choose from. I love the versatile

style of these round ones (pictured left),

each about an inch wide. But these adorable

owls and lobsters (pictured below)

would be amazing on a little children’s

sweater. They are longer than they are

wide – so choose your button-hole width

based on the narrower length.

36 KNITmuch | issue 1

Photos and video by Glenna Harris


An alternative to this is the one-row horizontal button-hole

method, where both of these steps are done on

the same row. The advantage with this technique is that

it creates less of a gape in the button-hole itself, since

both the bind-off and cast-on happen on the same row.

It requires just a little bit more attention, but the skills you

need are very similar.

In the video clip below, I’ll show you how to work the

one-row horizontal buttonhole. It just takes a few minutes

to learn!

I hope you enjoyed the little clip, and if you’re new to the

one-row button-hole technique, be sure to give it a try!

If it’s still not your favorite technique, be sure and keep

looking around for other methods and see what you like

best. Fall is coming soon, and so is sweater weather, so

we’ll be making a lot of button-holes very soon. Trying a

new technique could make all the difference!

How to work the one-row horizontal buttonhole

KNITmuch | issue 1

37


Pom-poms

– the cutest knitted accessories, right?

Glenna Harris

Pom poms make

darling decorations

on their own, and

the perfect finish

for winter hats and

mittens. You just need

these tools and your

favorite scrap yarn!

Pom-poms are one of the final flourishes

that can take your finished knitting

to the “next level.” They’re often used as

an accessory on top of a knitted hat, or

at the edge of a mitten cuff. You might

even have seen them attached to the

corners of baby blankets, or the ends

of scarves. These little darlings are very

versatile!

There are a lot of 'low tech' ways to

make them, but if you want that almost

magazine-looking quality, try using

a pom-pom maker. They'll give your

pom-poms a symmetrical, polished

quality that’s hard to beat, and also

come in different sizes for different

pom-pom needs. In the photos, I’m

going to show you how it works! The

results are hard to beat.

First, gather your materials. You’ll need

a bit of scrap yarn (any weight will

do – I’m using worsted-weight wool to

demonstrate these), your pom-pom

maker in the size you prefer, and a

dull tapestry needle/wool needle for

the smaller sized pom-poms if that’s

the size you’re making. The pom-pom

makers I’m using in this demonstration

come in 3 sizes that all snap together.

This means you can use one size at a

time, or combine 2 or 3 sizes together

to adjust the size if you wish.

38 KNITmuch | issue 1

If you’re using the smaller

pom-pom makers, it’s easier

to use a tapestry needle to

thread the yarn through the

smaller hole in the center.


All ready? Let’s start our pom-poms!

1

Step 1 Begin with the 2 pom-pom rings facing together with

their ‘flat’ side out. start wrapping your yarn around both of the

rings together, and keep wrapping all the way around.

Step 2 Keep wrapping the yarn until it’s as thick as you want it

to be. The more you wrap, the more solid your pom-pom will

be. I recommend wrapping it at least twice around all the way,

but keep wrapping more if you want a really sturdy pom-pom!

Step 3 Once you’ve wrapped the yarn as much as you want to,

hold the rings – which now resemble a “yarn doughnut!” – firmly

in the center, and start cutting all around the outside edge of

the rings.

2

The first time I tried

this, I worried the

yarn would simply fall

out of the center of

the ring and that it

wouldn’t work at all.

I was wrong! As long

as you’ve created

enough yarn wraps,

the yarn will simply

rest nestled up all the

strands together in

3 4

the center.

Step 4 Slowly pull the two rings apart, to expose the center of

the little yarn bundle – but be careful not to completely remove

them. This will look a bit like two jellyfish stuck together.

Step 5 With the center of the yarn bundle exposed, tie 1 or 2

longer strands of yarn around the whole works, and tie a knot

firmly. Now it’s safe to remove the rings!

Step 6 Once you’ve removed the rings, all that’s left to do is

snip away any uneven ends and then give it a “floof” with your

fingers, and you’re done! It’s a perfect little pom-pom, ready to

adorn the top of your next winter hat.

If you keep your pom-pom maker handy in your knitting toolkit,

you’ll be ready to finish your hat and mittens if they call for

pom-poms right away. Or, you can make a few at a time when

you come to the end of a project, as a way to use up small

amounts of extra yarn. Pom-poms make great little decorations

on their own, or strung together to make a garland! Pompoms

are gorgeous final flourishes to take your knitting to the

next level.

Photos by Glenna Harris

5

6

KNITmuch | issue 1 39


Stitch holders are safety nets for your knitting

Glenna Harris

Stitch holders come in many sizes and are

designed to securely hold your stitches aside.

We talked about stitch markers earlier, now we’re

going to take a moment to extol the virtues of

stitch holders. These little life-savers aren’t hard to

use, but we tend to use them while making slightly

more advanced projects, so as you progress in

your knitting skills you’ll find yourself reaching for

them more and more. Stitch holders are safety

nets for your knitting.

Stitch holders come in different sizes, ranging from

just a few inches long to nearly a foot. They’re

a staple of the yarn shop tools display, and so

helpful to use once you start knitting garments

like sweaters. They're designed to do exactly what

you might think – hold stitches aside, securely, for

a portion of your project. (If you needed to put

the whole piece aside for a short while, you would

simply leave it on the needles).

You’ll commonly see pattern directions telling

you to use a stitch holder when you’re starting

the neckline of a sweater while working from the

bottom up. On the sweater pictured above, (which

is the Ravine pullover pattern), you can see the

center of the scoop neckline starts across the

middle cable panel, and on each side just above

that are the rows of decreases that shape the rest

of the scoop. This bottom center of the scoop

is first established by holding the stitches aside,

and then working each side of the sweater front

one side at a time. Once you’ve held the middle

stitches aside, you’re essentially working two

pieces, not just one.

When the sweater is all finished, the collar is

worked by picking up stitches all along the edge

of the neck, and transferring those stitches held

aside back onto your needles so that they can be

worked into the ribbing as pictures. So, once the

sweater is done you can’t really tell that anything

was temporarily held aside! It’s all just one step in

the process of completing your sweater.

40 KNITmuch | issue 1


These two photos show what this

looks like on a cabled swatch – I’ve

taken the middle stitches and put

them aside on the stitch holder. At

this point, if it were a “real” sweater,

I would continue working one side

at a time and do some decreases

on each side of the held stitches

to finish shaping the rest of the

neckline.

Another popular place to use a

stitch holder is on the under-arm of

a sweater knitted in the round, or

when needing to hold aside thumb

stitches on a mitten. This is where it

helps to have a few different stitch

holder sizes handy, depending on

how many stitches you’re working

with at once.

If you’re absolutely stuck and don’t

have a stitch holder handy, you can

accomplish the same task by using

some “waste yarn” (a bit of extra

yarn you’re not using) or even dental

floss to hold onto the stitches. The

advantage of stitch holders, though,

is the security of being able to snap

them closed! At those times when

you’re working on a large project, it

definitely feels like stitch holders are

safety nets for your knitting.

We’re using this cabled swatch as though it is the front of

a neckline, to separate out the middle section of stitches.

Simply slip the stitches from the needle onto the stitch

holder, and then lock it closed.

Photos by Glenna Harris

KNITmuch | issue 1

41


What you should know about

Michelle Nguyen

Red Heart

[ Cutie Pie Yarn

The very first thing

that ran through my

mind when I opened

Red Heart’s Cutie Pie

yarn was ‘omg soft.’

It wasn’t in a clear

enunciated way either;

it was in that muffled

way that only truly soft

yarn would be able to

invoke.

The texture of this yarn takes a couple minutes

to adjust to. When you’re feeling it all wound

up in the ball it's very soft. When you go to

cast on it’s still soft, but the texture likes to hang

onto the needles a little bit. The very first time

I cast on was with bamboo needles, but the

stitches weren’t sliding particularly well. When

I switched to wood needles my knitting was

flowing nicely again. I checked how Cutie Pie

did with metal needles and it went well. The

smoother the needle surface, the easier my

stitching went.

Red Heart Cutie Pie Yarn is ‘omgosh so soft.

42 KNITmuch | issue 1


Snowflake

color work

swatch

Playing with

cables using

Cutie Pie

yarns

The chenille fuzziness of Cutie Pie yarn also

means that all your stitches look even. All the

stitches look smooth together rather than

individual stitches being accentuated. If you’re

looking for something to do color work in,

this yarn would be great. If you’re looking for

something to clearly define some cable work

or a textured stitch, I would try something like

Red Heart’s With Love yarn.

The swatch above is made with the colors

Indigo and Cotton. While you can see the

color work perfectly, it is more difficult to

make out individual stitches. I think it makes

any stranded knitting really pop and look

much more realistic. When you’re knitting an

intricate design, it sometimes looks pixelated.

The velvet texture of Cutie Pie yarn makes the

design slightly softer and adds depth to the

picture you’re trying to create.

Cutie Pie is made with 100% polyester and

washing instructions are machine wash warm,

gentle cycle; tumble dry low. It’s the perfect

yarn for baby knits with the ease of washing

and the extreme softness. I tied a couple

knots into my knitting to see if I could make it

uncomfortable but the yarn is just so soft you

can’t even feel where the knots are.

Red Heart’s Cutie Pie yarn is a fantastic yarn

for all things baby, but don’t stop there.

Any garment that is worn close to the skin

would lend itself well to this yarn. Soft,

warm cowls and luxurious slippers would be

particularly coveted.

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

KNITmuch | issue 1

43


4

Michelle Nguyen

essential tips

when knitting

for babies

Knitting for children, especially babies,

is one of the most addictive kinds of

knitting you can find. Knitting tiny

sweaters and blankets have all the fun

of a regular garment with the added

benefit of taking less time. Plus, they’re

just too cute. However, here are 4 tips

when knitting for babies we knitters

should keep in mind, especially when

knitting for someone else’s little ones

Cutie Pie yarn

in colors

Jelly,

Indigo and

Cotton

44 KNITmuch | issue 1


Red Heart Cutie Pie Yarn is so soft therefore perfect for knitting for babies.

Cutie Pie yarn in colors Cotton, Koala and Splash

Have a sense of style

I know this should go

without saying, but

it’s one thing a lot of

gift givers (or makers)

forget. Just because

you like the style of

something, doesn’t

mean everyone else

will. I know we’re

all thinking that this

adorable little sweater

is for a baby and the

babies don’t have

a sense of style, but

mommy and daddy

do. If the parents have

a really plain sense of

style, chances are, they

aren’t going to dress

their little girl in tons of

frills and bows.

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

1 2 3 4

Go functional

You know what every

new parent needs?

Blankets. I was

recently the hostess

of a baby shower and

didn’t realize, until

that moment, how

many sheets, blankets,

cloths, towels, etc.

are required for one

small baby. If you’re

not totally sure if

the garment you’re

looking at knitting

is going to be well

received, blankets are

always used!

Wash-ability would

also be under the

functional headline. If

you’re looking to make

an heirloom, handwash

only would be

acceptable. If you’re

looking to make

something a parent

would actually use, I

would highly suggest

a fiber that is machine

washable.

Think color palette

If it isn’t obvious, I’m

a huge color person.

I love all shades and

will admit to reigning

myself in when it

comes to matters

of choosing colors

for babies. While

I might think rich

colors are awesome,

some mothers might

object. If there’s a color

palette for the nursery

a matching blanket will

be safe. Odds are the

parents have picked

colors they like for their

child’s room.

Another good thing

to think about is

gender stereotypes.

It’s more and more

common for parents

to break the ‘blue is

for boys’, ‘pink is for

girls’ color schemes. I

know there are strong

feelings on both sides

of the color-stereotype

line; it would be best

to find out if there are

any strong feelings

either way.

Safety

This is something

that can be easily

overlooked, but of

paramount importance.

If knitting a textured

blanket, have a care,

the lacework could

get tangled around

little fingers and toes.

Make sure buttons

are sewn on securely

and all pom poms

and bobbles are kept

within reason to avoid

choking hazards.

Taking these 4

tips when knitting

for babies into

consideration will

ensure your lovely

knitted gift is received

and used with joy.

A few well placed

questions could save

you hurt feelings and

frustration. If you’re

going to spend hours

making something

why not make sure it

meets the stylistic and

safety standards of the

recipient.

KNITmuch | issue 1

45


Michelle Nguyen

Hand Knit Snuggle Sack

A snuggle sack isn’t your ordinary

blanket; it’s like swaddling without

the careful wrapping. These snuggle

sacks are becoming more and more

popular over the past couple years

and are an excellent shower gift.

It’s like giving a baby blanket with

significantly less knitting! Here’s how

to make a hand knit snuggle sack…

A trendy baby shower gift

skill level easy

finished measurements 17" x 13"

materials

1 ball Cutie Pie in color Destiny (Color A)

1 ball Cutie Pie in color Splash (Color B)

1 ball Cutie Pie in color Koala (Color C)

1 circular needle US 7 [4.5mm] 16''

1 set double pointed needles US 7

[4.5mm]1 tapestry needle

This pattern is knit in the round with

the yarn held double. I wound the

skeins into two separate balls and

worked from there, but you can also

work from a strand pulled from the

inside and a strand pulled from the

outside. There’s a much greater

chance of tangles, but it can be done.

This pattern is for a large snuggle

sack for 8 to 12 month old, if you’re

attempting to make a newborn size,

subtract 20 stitches and 2" in length

for each color block. In the pattern I’ll

be writing color A, B and C; if you wish

to change the colors simply switch

them out and follow the pattern.

Red Heart

[ Cutie Pie Yarn

46 KNITmuch | issue 1


Cast on 80 sts in color A, join into

the round, place marker, and knit

in stockinette for 4''. Make the

folded hem. With RS facing, fold

the cast on edge away from you

and hold behind the working needle.

Pick up one stitch from cast

on edge and knit it together with

the next stitch on working needle.

Continue to do this until all the

cast on stitches have been knit.

Knit one round plain. The next

round, add 10 stitches evenly

through the stitches on the needle.

If you’re working with 80

stitches, you’ll knit 7 then knit

in front and back of loop. After

increase row is finished, knit in

stockinette until the snuggle sack

is 6'' in total. Switch to color B and

knit in stockinette until this section

is 6'' as well. Finally switch to color

C and continue in stockinette until

this color block is 5''.

Begin the decreases as follows:

Row 1: *K8, k2tog* repeat

Row 2: K all stitches

Row 3: *K7, k2tog* repeat

Row 4: K all stitches

Row 5: *K6, k2tog* repeat

Row 6: K all stitches

Continue in this manner, switching

into double pointed needles when

needed, until you reach K1, k2tog.

After completing K1, k2tog, there’s

no plain stockinette row, work

K2tog.

Cut your working yarn, leaving a

12'' tail. Thread the tail onto your

tapestry needle and thread the

yarn through the live stitches. Pull

tight and weave in the end.

Finished folded hem.

Finish the snuggle sack by threading yarn onto your

tapestry needle then threading the yarn through

your live stitches. Pull tight and weave in the end.

The bottom of the snuggle sack

complete with decreases. Ends just

need to be woven in.

You can’t beat the softness of

Red Heart Cutie Pie yarn

to make this snuggle sack.

This hand knit snuggle sack is

one of the most appreciated

baby knits I’ve ever made.

It keeps baby ensconced in

soft warmth with no danger

of little toes peeking out

and getting cold. There’s no

tucking corners or fussing

with multiple blankets, just

one cozy little cocoon.

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

KNITmuch | issue 1

47


Michelle Nguyen

Creative Cabled Cowl

One of the most soughtafter

Christmas gifts is a

smashing cabled cowl! A

cowl is a very versatile

accessory that adds

warmth and style to any

wardrobe, so much so that

it's often worn in place

of a necklace. Imagine

knitting one up in an

intricate cabled pattern

using yummy yarn. Here's

a pattern that looks

complicated but is really

very simple. The classic

18'', three-button cowl

is the easiest cable cowl

you'll ever memorize.

the easiest cabled cowl you’ll ever memorize

skill level easy

finished measurements 18" x 8"

materials

1 ball of Red Heart's With Love in color

Iris

1 needle US 9 [5.5mm]

1 tapestry needle

The texture of

Red Heart’s ‘With Love’ yarn

lends itself perfectly to the

{Creative Cabled Cowl

48 KNITmuch | issue 1


Cast on 36 stitches and work in a k1 p1

seed stitch for an inch ending on a wrong

side row. Continue in seed stitch for 4 sts,

place marker, knit row one of the chart

below, place marker and finish last four sts

in seed stitch.

Continue starting with 4 sts in seed stitch

then work the next pattern row.

I would suggest knitting until the cowl is

18'' in length to give you a nice snug fit

to keep you warm on a cold winter day.

If you prefer a looser fitting cowl, do as

many repeats as you feel comfortable with.

When you’re ready to do the buttonholes,

stop the chart after row 8 and re-establish

your seed stitch. Knit half an inch in

seed stitch then place your buttonholes

accordingly.

Row 1: Knit 4 sts in seed stitch pattern,

then bind off three stitches, knit 10 more

sts in seed stitch and bind off three, knit

9 sts in seed stitch pattern, bind off three

and finish last four sts in seed stitch.

Row 2: Continue in seed stitch pattern

until you reach the bound off areas and

cast on two sts using the backwards loop

method.

Work in seed stitch for another half inch

and bind off. Make sure you re-establish

the seed stitch after the buttonholes

properly or your seed stitch will turn into a

rib stitch.

Now all you have left to do is sew on

your buttons!

This cowl perfectly covers the space your jacket

leaves open to the unforgiving winter winds. We

all have a friend who is always cold, keep them

warm with this beautiful creative cabled cowl.

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

KNITmuch | issue 1

49


The benefits of knitting with

Red Heart Sashay Fringe yarn

Michelle Nguyen

Red Heart’s Sashay Fringe yarn

is a very interesting and unique

product, so I wanted to talk

about my specific experiences

making the Positive Pink Ruffles

scarf pattern. The ruffle yarn,

without the fur, was very popular

in the not-too-distant past and

as a result there are thousands

of patterns you can make. The

difference is you get a bit of

extra flair when knitting them

with Sashay Fringe. Not only this,

see the benefits of knitting with

Sashay Fringe yarn.

I absolutely love this yarn for

scarves because it’s so easy, but

it looks much more difficult than

it actually is. This is perfect for

someone who is just starting out

and looking for a fun project, but

also for tempting your friends

into knitting! The yarn counts as

a bulky, but you’re just knitting in

the mesh, as seen on the how-to

video.

First thing is to cast on; this can

be really tricky if you’re not sure

what you’re doing with this yarn.

The mesh already has holes in it

so you aren’t doing a long-tail

cast on or anything. You’re using

the holes in that mesh webbing

to cast on. Sashay Fringe doesn’t

have the little rail road track

in the top, so I would suggest

starting at the holes nearer to the

center. This way you won’t see

much of the mesh itself as you’re

knitting and the stitches you have on

your needle are a little more defined.

50

KNITmuch | issue 1


Sashay your way onto the Fringe of Fashion

There aren’t that many stitches

either, the pattern from the Red

Heart website calls for 6 stitches.

Trust me, this is the most difficult

part of the whole thing! Once

your cast on is done, it's time to

get knitting.

The scarf knits up really fast, but

in the first few rows you may find

yourself thinking it’s incredibly

ugly. This is normal, it’s like

knitting lace; it doesn’t look good

until you are closer to the end.

With lace that means blocking,

with Sashay Fringe, it means a bit

closer to the end.

One difference between ruffle

yarns and Sashay Fringe that

I really enjoyed, is the lack

of maintenance while you’re

knitting it. With the regular

ruffle yarn you have to smooth

it out as you’re knitting it to get

a real ‘ruffled’ effect. The fur

edge is what you’re looking to

accentuate with this yarn and

there’s no need to smooth it out.

The weight of the fur itself makes

sure the yarn isn’t bunched up

within the knitted folds of the

scarf. Closer to the end of the

ball the mesh is folded into the

fur, but that is a simple matter

of unfolding as you go along.

If you place your thumb in the

folded groove, as you move

along the strand it will open up

automatically.

The Rows of Ruffles pillow is

something that I would dearly

love to try; I relish in the thought

it will turn out so soft. This

pattern is linked to a crochet

pattern and my crochet skills

leave something to be desired,

so I would knit the whole thing.

Photos by Michelle Nguyen

To convert this pillow pattern to a

knitting pattern find your knitting

gauge using Sashay Fringe, lift

up the ruffles to the stitches

underneath. My gauge was 4

stitches in 1", so if my pillow was

22" around, I would have to cast

on 88 stitches to cover that pillow.

This isn’t a proper pattern, just

some quick and dirty math to get

the knitted pillow you want.

You’ll might have to keep an eye

on a pillow like that to make sure

it doesn’t migrate to a friend’s

home. It would be a great idea

for covering old pillows that are

faded or stained. Furthermore,

it works up so quickly, you can

make several to give to your

girlfriends for the upcoming

holiday season. Knit it up in their

favorite color or in the color to

match up with their decor.

Knitting a scarf with Sashay Fringe

isn’t the only thing. With the many

patterns out there for ruffle yarn,

there’s no end to the accessories

you can make, as there are

several benefits of knitting with

Sashay Fringe yarn. All those

patterns will be brand new again

when knit with Sashay Fringe. The

little edge of fur brings a totally

different look to your favorite

patterns.

Give it a whirl!

Using the holes in the mesh webbing to cast on the

Sashay Fringe

Red Heart Sashay Scarf cast on

Running your thumb along the inside as you knit

makes it open right up

The stitches can be seen between my finger and the

ruler, that is one row of four stitches.

KNITmuch | issue 1

51


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52 KNITmuch | issue 1

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