Times of the Islands Winter 2015-16
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> NO. 113<br />
OCEAN COUNTRY<br />
A call for hope and action<br />
A VOICE FOR THE ANIMALS<br />
TCSPCA speaks<br />
THE PINE CAY EVOLUTION<br />
Delving into this private island
AT<br />
A luxury condo and villa resort community<br />
The Perfect Combination...<br />
The privacy <strong>of</strong> a luxury villa<br />
The convenience <strong>of</strong> a penthouse<br />
• Located on exclusive Long Bay Beach<br />
• The security <strong>of</strong> a full service resort<br />
• Full access to resort amenities<br />
• The opportunity to earn rental<br />
Villa<br />
income<br />
Frontage<br />
A “10 Best Island Beaches Around <strong>the</strong> World”<br />
- Condé Nast Travellers List<br />
www.TheShoreClubTC.com<br />
“Future Location <strong>of</strong> Villas”<br />
Award winning developer <strong>of</strong> luxury<br />
beachfront condos for over a decade.
THE WORLD’S ONLY<br />
FIVE-STAR<br />
LUXURY<br />
I N C L U D E D ®<br />
R E S O R T S<br />
Enjoy all <strong>the</strong> luxuries <strong>of</strong> a world-class,<br />
five-star resort, except, at Sandals ®<br />
Resorts, everything is included.<br />
Gourmet Discovery Dining at up to <strong>16</strong><br />
restaurants with top chefs from around<br />
<strong>the</strong> world. We’ve raised <strong>the</strong> bar on our<br />
bars, with up to 11 at each resort. Suites<br />
with pools in <strong>the</strong> sky, private Tranquility<br />
Soaking Tubs TM<br />
on <strong>the</strong> terrace, and<br />
butlers to cater to every whim in toptier<br />
suites. Every land and water sport<br />
you can imagine—even scuba diving for<br />
certified divers and golf*. At Sandals,<br />
you really can have it all, because it’s<br />
all included, all unlimited—all <strong>the</strong> time.<br />
LOVE IS ALL YOU NEED<br />
Visit sandals.com,<br />
call 1-888-SANDALS<br />
or your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
Butler Village Honeymoon Romeo & Juliet<br />
Sanctuary 1 Bdrm. Villa Suite w/Private Pool<br />
at Sandals Ochi Beach Resort in Jamaica<br />
ALL INCLUDED, ALL UNLIMITED, ALL THE TIME.<br />
JAMAICA • ANTIGUA • SAINT LUCIA • BAHAMAS • GRENADA • BARBADOS<br />
*Visit www.sandals.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2015</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.
The Leading Private Bank in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Where values are growing<br />
Wealth Management • Bonds/Fixed Income<br />
Investment Strategies • Foreign Exchange<br />
Stocks/Equities • Precious Metals<br />
Fixed deposits/CD’s • International Transfers<br />
Turks & Caicos Banking Company Ltd.<br />
The Regent Village, Unit H102, Grace Bay Road, Providenciales<br />
Tel: +649 941 4994<br />
Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc<br />
Regulated by <strong>the</strong> Financial Services Commission, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>
The cool side <strong>of</strong> classic.<br />
7 2 W E S T<br />
T H E S P A<br />
P A R A L L E L 2 3<br />
The Palms (formerly Regent Palms) may totally inhabit <strong>the</strong> role <strong>of</strong><br />
an elegant, luxurious, award-winning resort, but beneath that cultivated<br />
exterior beats an untamed heart. Parallel23 sprinkles every dish<br />
with a dash <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unexpected. 72West <strong>of</strong>fers you <strong>the</strong> moon and <strong>the</strong> stars.<br />
Whimsy rules at The Palms Courtyard Shops featuring Wish Boutique.<br />
And your senses are utterly seduced at The Spa at The Palms.<br />
Feel free to visit and indulge your inner wild child in all we have to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
THE PALMS, LAID -BACK LU XE .<br />
649.946.8666 | <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />
W I S H B O U T I Q U E
contents<br />
Departments<br />
10 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
15 Getting to Know<br />
From Grand Turk to Grand Cru: Shane Jones<br />
By Trish Flanagan<br />
20 What’s New<br />
A Turks & Caicos Original: Wellington Williams<br />
By Zahrya Musgrove ~ Photos By Davidson Louis<br />
79 Faces & Places<br />
Third Annual Ladies Hat Luncheon<br />
Photos By Paradise Photography<br />
80 Crossing Africa<br />
The Journey Begins<br />
82 Shape Up<br />
Get Fit with PaddleFit<br />
By Morgan Luker<br />
You are What You Eat<br />
By Dr. Sam Slattery<br />
84 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
89 Where to Stay<br />
91 Dining Out<br />
94 Classified Ads/Subscription Form<br />
Features<br />
36 Ocean Country<br />
Excerpts By Liz Cunningham<br />
46 A Voice for Those Who Cannot Speak<br />
By Kathi Barrington<br />
57 Treasuring Pine Cay<br />
By Sara Kaufman ~<br />
Photos By Paradise Photography<br />
Green Pages<br />
24 No Place Like Home<br />
By Kathy Lockhart, Lily Zhao & Heidi Hertler<br />
28 Green Living in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
By Amy Avenant<br />
30 The Iconic Nassau Grouper<br />
Story & Photos By John Claydon & Marta Calosso<br />
33 Birding in Paradise<br />
By B Naqqi Manco ~ Photo By Eric F. Salamanca<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> NO. 113<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
Marta Morton is an avid resident photographer,<br />
documenting <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong> since 1998.<br />
This fall, she braved <strong>the</strong> heat and humidity to climb<br />
Jim Hill and shoot this scene overlooking <strong>the</strong> entrance<br />
to South Side Marina and Cooper Jack. Two hours and<br />
500 photos later she was dehydrated and had to head<br />
home to her “day job” <strong>of</strong> running Harbour Club Villas &<br />
Marina, but had captured this stunning image. See her<br />
blog for more at www.myturksandcaicosblog.com.<br />
46<br />
Astrolabe<br />
66 An Unfinished Story<br />
By Dr. Donald H. Keith ~<br />
Photos By Windward Media<br />
72 The Original “Snail Mail”<br />
Story & Photos By Peter Marshall<br />
75 Grand Turk’s Postcard Man<br />
By Sherlin Williams<br />
COURTESY TCSPCA<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
Turks And Caicos Featured<br />
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Real Estate<br />
Mandalay Villa<br />
Completed in 2012 this one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind estate on sought<br />
after Long Bay Beach sets <strong>the</strong> standard for luxurious<br />
living in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Features include “drivethrough”<br />
gate house, travertine driveway lined by fruit<br />
trees, multi-level infinity pool with central lounge<br />
and waterfalls, Creston smart home technology, and<br />
sumptuous furnishings. There’s nothing like it!<br />
US$15,000,000<br />
North Brae Villa<br />
4BD/4BTH “Spanish-inspired” mansion built on <strong>the</strong><br />
beach in Thompson Cove w/ its own private boat dock.<br />
Exceptional and unique - custom staircases; custom<br />
metal-work; extensive use <strong>of</strong> Brazilian hardwood and<br />
mahogany. It’s all here - formal dining room, “luxury<br />
fitted” kitchen, etc. All centered on <strong>the</strong> infinity pool,<br />
jacuzzi and <strong>the</strong> ocean beyond.<br />
US$2,950,000<br />
Bernadette Hunt<br />
cell ~ 649 231 4029 | tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Bernadette is an Irish qualified attorney who<br />
began practicing law in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos in<br />
1997. Working in a general practice she dealt<br />
with conveyancing, immigration, licensing,<br />
company and trust formation and estate<br />
planning. In 2000 she co-founded Turks &<br />
Caicos Property, Ltd. (“TCP”) taking <strong>the</strong> lead<br />
on sales and dividing her time between law<br />
and real estate.<br />
Seven Stars 3 Bedroom<br />
Beachfront suite 1201/02 provides 2,672 sqf <strong>of</strong> luxurious<br />
living space. Granite counters, marbled bathrooms,<br />
travertine flooring and GE Monogram appliances. The<br />
main living areas and master suite enjoy turquoise water<br />
views. The additional bedrooms have a lockout feature<br />
for rental flexibility. Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fabulous Seven Stars<br />
Resort in <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay.<br />
US$1,449,000<br />
Grace Bay Development Site<br />
Right between The Mansions and Villa Renaissance<br />
on Grace Bay. Suitable for condo development (resort<br />
or residential), a boutique hotel or for an estate home.<br />
There is a two storey residential building on <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
portion. A resurgent tourism industry and a busy real<br />
estate market mean <strong>the</strong> timing is now perfect.<br />
US$6,000,000<br />
Villa Renaissance Penthouse<br />
This beautiful 2BR penthouse suite is in pristine<br />
condition. Enjoy direct Grace Bay beach views from<br />
<strong>the</strong> terrace and additional ro<strong>of</strong>top space incorporating<br />
a private jacuzzi and BBQ area. This feature is unique<br />
in <strong>the</strong> development - its like your own a private<br />
spa. If you are searching for <strong>the</strong> ultimate 2 bedroom<br />
suite on Grace Bay this penthouse is a must see.<br />
US$1,545,000<br />
Grace Bay Beach House<br />
5 BR / 4.5 BTH villa w/ pool on an acre <strong>of</strong> Grace<br />
Bay beach. Powdery white sand at your doorstep,<br />
snorkeling on Smith’s Reef, close to Turtle Cove<br />
Marina, restaurants and shops. Dazzling views from<br />
<strong>the</strong> 3rd floor wraparound balcony. Enquire for shortterm<br />
vacation rental earnings info.<br />
US$2,950,000<br />
Bernadette retired from law in 2007 to focus<br />
exclusively on what was already a successful<br />
real estate business. Since <strong>the</strong>n, based on<br />
independent MLS data, she is <strong>the</strong> only TCI<br />
agent with active sales (i.e. introducing <strong>the</strong><br />
buyer) exceeding US$100 million. Her gross<br />
sales figures and transaction numbers are also<br />
unrivalled. This proven level <strong>of</strong> efficiency,<br />
experience and up-to-<strong>the</strong>-minute information<br />
provides a platform for quality service that<br />
you can count on every time.<br />
TCP is <strong>the</strong> leading independent real estate<br />
brokerage in TCI with <strong>of</strong>fices located on<br />
Grace Bay Rd., and at Ocean Club West.<br />
TCP’s reputation and success has been earned<br />
over time through <strong>the</strong> dedication, enthusiasm<br />
and consistent performance <strong>of</strong> Bernadette and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Property team. Bernadette<br />
works 6 days a week from her <strong>of</strong>fices in Grace<br />
Bay and delights in meeting new people and<br />
making new contacts.<br />
Call Bernadette if you would like to find out<br />
a little more about owning real estate in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Turks & Caicos Property<br />
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fi ve dive operations in <strong>the</strong> Western Hemisphere. Superb Gourmet Discovery Dining at 21 restaurants, and 14 bars<br />
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and Sesame Street ® fun and games for <strong>the</strong> kids. Complimentary accredited nannies for all ages, all day and into<br />
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beaches.com • 1-888-BEACHES • or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/btctimes<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2015</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
Marta Morton struck photographic gold again with this amazing shot <strong>of</strong> a group <strong>of</strong> flamingos on Salt Cay. With <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Candy Herwin, she<br />
discovered this flock in an area called North Creek, just past Government House.<br />
Got Yer Back<br />
I remember a time, probably a dozen years ago, when a vicious hurricane was headed towards <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. At <strong>the</strong> last minute it swerved northward, narrowing missing <strong>the</strong> country. The Wea<strong>the</strong>r Channel reporter<br />
quipped, “There must be some praying folks out <strong>the</strong>re.” I think <strong>the</strong>re were. I’ve long believed that <strong>the</strong> backbone <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI’s remarkable good fortune and progress are <strong>the</strong> humble, generous, hopeful women and men who daily call<br />
upon God for <strong>the</strong>ir families, friends, community, government and country, with simple, faith-filled prayers.<br />
These thoughts came to mind when I read Ocean Country, a book excerpted within this issue. With a concept<br />
conceived in <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> book will serve as a powerful call to action for <strong>the</strong> future <strong>of</strong> our planet. The same intention<br />
for positive change echoes in our story about <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA, which has been working to bring a “voice to those who<br />
cannot speak.” And somehow, in spite <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> terrors our world sprouts, <strong>the</strong>re are many young people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
who are doing amazing things. Meet Mario Rigby, who will be crossing Africa by foot with <strong>the</strong> intention <strong>of</strong> sharing<br />
his journey to inspire o<strong>the</strong>rs. Or Shane Jones, who took a passion for wine and turned it into a prestigious career.<br />
Or Wellington Williams, whose determination and entrepreneurship are breaking ground in <strong>the</strong> world <strong>of</strong> crafts and<br />
jewelry. And <strong>the</strong> folks who work for DEMA, <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies, and <strong>the</strong> National Museum, who regularly<br />
use <strong>the</strong>ir skills to conserve TCI’s natural and cultural resources. This cornucopia <strong>of</strong> encouragement says to me that<br />
Someone’s “got our back.”<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />
10 www.timespub.tc
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Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales<br />
Phone: (649) 946-5330
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A ROMANTIC GESTURE A special turndown service that includes<br />
flower petals on your bed on <strong>the</strong> first evening <strong>of</strong> your honeymoon.<br />
WAKE UP TO WEDDED BLISS Delight in a delivery <strong>of</strong> fresh flowers<br />
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*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/bchtimes<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2015</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.
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TIMES<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Amy Avenant, Kathi Barrington, Kathy Borsuk, Marta<br />
Calosso, John Claydon, Liz Cunningham, Trish Flanagan,<br />
Heidi Hertler, Sara Kaufman, Dr. Donald H. Keith,<br />
Kathy Lockhart, Morgan Luker, B Naqqi Manco,<br />
Peter Marshall, Zahrya Musgrove, Claire Parrish, Pat Saxton,<br />
Dr. Sam Slattery, Sherlin Williams, Lily Zhao.<br />
Love your home<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Amy Avenant, Jim Budd, Marta Calosso, John Claydon,<br />
Charlie Costello, Trish Flanagan, David Gallardo–World <strong>of</strong><br />
Oceans, Shane Jones, Kathy Lockhart, Davidson Louis,<br />
Peter Marshall, Marta Morton, Claire Parrish,<br />
Paradise Photography, Eva Ramey, Eric F. Salamanca,<br />
Pat Saxton, School for Field Studies, TCNM Collection,<br />
TCSPCA, Windward Media, Wine & Spirit Education Trust.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
Wavey Line Publishing<br />
PRINTING<br />
Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL<br />
AWARD-WINNING CUSTOM HOME DESIGN<br />
Award-winning architecture firm RA Shaw Designs<br />
has created some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most sophisticated and<br />
technologically advanced luxury properties<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Recently voted<br />
“The Best Architecture & Design<br />
Company <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year”<br />
for <strong>the</strong> second consecutive year by Caribbean<br />
World Magazine, our team specializes in creating<br />
a unique sense <strong>of</strong> place by integrating building<br />
techniques and architectural details with <strong>the</strong><br />
surrounding culture so that you too can<br />
love your home.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />
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14 www.timespub.tc
getting to know<br />
JIM BUDD<br />
Grand Turk native Shane Jones was <strong>the</strong> “Red Shirt” for <strong>the</strong> Loire table at <strong>the</strong> <strong>2015</strong><br />
Decanter World Wine Awards.<br />
From Grand Turk to Grand Cru<br />
Meet wine expert Shane Jones.<br />
By Trish Flanagan<br />
We’re being chauffeured through <strong>the</strong> crimson, gold, and russet vineyards <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Champagne region in<br />
France. Think New England fall foliage on a smaller scale. Autumn here is a glorious blaze <strong>of</strong> multi-coloured<br />
fields, as <strong>the</strong> meticulously pruned vines die <strong>of</strong>f after harvest. I’m in <strong>the</strong> company <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk native and<br />
wine expert Shane Jones. He’s <strong>the</strong> holder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prized Moet and Chandon scholarship for top marks in <strong>the</strong><br />
sparkling wines’ exam <strong>of</strong> his diploma. A trip to two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s top Champagne houses is his reward. So<br />
how did this Turks & Caicos Islander find himself in <strong>the</strong> rarefied world <strong>of</strong> wine expertise?<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 15
Born in Grand Turk in 1978 to Hattie Francis and<br />
William Jones, Shane enjoyed a happy childhood in<br />
Overback, where his mo<strong>the</strong>r ran a small sweet and rum<br />
shop. He went on to H.J. Robinson High School where he<br />
came into his own. In fact his time <strong>the</strong>re led to his first<br />
introduction to Europe. “I was part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> debating team<br />
and I played clarinet in <strong>the</strong> marching band. I was also a<br />
member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scouts and travelled to <strong>the</strong> World Scout<br />
Jamboree in Holland in 1995,” he recalls.<br />
Always top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> class, he became Valedictorian. But<br />
his ambitions weren’t clear. “I didn’t have a strong career<br />
path as I was able to do a lots <strong>of</strong> things. My fa<strong>the</strong>r wanted<br />
me to be a lawyer but I wasn’t interested. Instead I took a<br />
gap year and worked at Radio Turks & Caicos.”<br />
He may <strong>the</strong>n have been unclear about his future<br />
career, but what’s obvious now is his extensive knowledge<br />
<strong>of</strong> wines. We’re at <strong>the</strong> splendid 18th century house,<br />
Le Trianon at Éparnay, with Yumi Laforge, Moet and<br />
Chandon’s Maison Ambassador. Originally <strong>the</strong> home <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Moet family, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> Chandon family, <strong>the</strong> house<br />
hosted Napoleon Bonaparte on several occasions. After<br />
an aperitif <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s most popular Champagne,<br />
Moet’s Brut Imperial, in a beautifully decorated and mirrored<br />
salon, we’re guided to <strong>the</strong> library for lunch. Yumi<br />
and Shane begin an intense discussion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> merits <strong>of</strong><br />
three rosé Champagnes which will accompany our food.<br />
It’s a long way from <strong>the</strong> library <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> West Indies in Barbados, from where Shane graduated<br />
in 1999 with a joint Economics/Accounting<br />
Honours Degree. Returning to Grand Turk he joined <strong>the</strong><br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Economics and Statistics. “It was a broadbased<br />
experience focusing on project management,<br />
helping departments budget for major capital projects<br />
and preparing submissions for EU, UN, and Caricom funding.”<br />
After only a year he was approached to head up <strong>the</strong><br />
Land Registry, where as Registrar <strong>of</strong> Lands he oversaw <strong>the</strong><br />
transfer <strong>of</strong> all properties, registration <strong>of</strong> charges, collection<br />
<strong>of</strong> stamp duties, and fees.<br />
He brings <strong>the</strong> same attention to detail from that job<br />
to his new role. Shane has a particular interest in rosé<br />
or pink Champagne, whose popularity is increasing,<br />
although it’s still not taken seriously by many pr<strong>of</strong>essionals.<br />
“Traditionally it was seen as a trivial drink for giggling<br />
girls, but if it’s aged impeccably and matched properly it<br />
can stand up to serious food,” he emphasises.<br />
The rosé Champagnes to complement lunch are from<br />
1985, 1999, and 2006. Shane explains <strong>the</strong> difference to<br />
me. “The younger ones are more accessible to unexperienced<br />
palates beause <strong>the</strong> black fruit notes are obvious<br />
From top: Shane Jones is enjoying lunch at Moet and Chandon’s Le<br />
Trianon residence. The gardens at Le Trianon are shown below. The<br />
trip is part <strong>of</strong> Shane’s Moet & Chandon scholarship that he won from<br />
<strong>the</strong> Wine & Spirits Education Trust.<br />
— plum, blackberries, and dark cherries. The older ones<br />
are more complex, and <strong>the</strong> terminology changes. For<br />
example, flavours may be described in “game” terms. It’s<br />
more difficult to assess, especially if people are unfamil-<br />
TRISH FLANAGAN SHANE JONES WINE & SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST<br />
<strong>16</strong> www.timespub.tc
iar with shooting wild fowl, and hanging it to intensify <strong>the</strong><br />
flavour,” he explains.<br />
It wasn’t a straight transition from Registrar to wine<br />
educator. In 2003 Shane took a postgraduate course in<br />
property valuations in <strong>the</strong> UK. As a high achiever, Cass<br />
Business School (part <strong>of</strong> London City University) was his<br />
first choice. “It was <strong>the</strong> leading institution in <strong>the</strong> area, and<br />
I felt that <strong>the</strong> education would be a way <strong>of</strong> building on<br />
<strong>the</strong> practical experience. The plan was to go back to <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos.”<br />
However <strong>the</strong> plan changed after two years in London,<br />
when he realised that he had <strong>the</strong> opportunity to add international<br />
experience to his CV. He worked for a number <strong>of</strong><br />
property companies, advising international clients on luxury<br />
property investments in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, France, and<br />
Croatia. Travelling through Europe he had <strong>the</strong> opportunity<br />
to visit vineyards and taste wine.<br />
But his first experience <strong>of</strong> wine bore no resemblance<br />
to our tastings at Le Trianon. “It was some time in <strong>the</strong><br />
1980s and it would have been a fruit wine, or a gallon<br />
container <strong>of</strong> an American brand like Gallo or Paul Mason.<br />
I can’t remember my first taste <strong>of</strong> wine or how old I was<br />
at <strong>the</strong> time, or even that I was immediately taken by it.”<br />
He only started to take wine seriously when he was work-<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 17
Here, Shane is shown “nosing” a glass <strong>of</strong> wine. When smelling a wine,<br />
<strong>the</strong> taster dips <strong>the</strong>ir nose into <strong>the</strong> upper portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine glass and<br />
brea<strong>the</strong>s in <strong>the</strong> aromas coming <strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine.<br />
ing in <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> London in 2007. Bishopsgate Institute<br />
<strong>of</strong>fered an introductory course, which he took during his<br />
Friday lunch breaks.<br />
His passion is obvious as he and Yumi discuss <strong>the</strong><br />
finer points <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Champagne and food pairings at lunch.<br />
According to Shane <strong>the</strong> intensity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine matches <strong>the</strong><br />
food perfectly, and <strong>the</strong> savoury flavours are drawn out.<br />
The 2006 is served with red mullet; <strong>the</strong> black truffle ravioli<br />
blends beautifully with <strong>the</strong> 1985 vintage; and <strong>the</strong> 1999<br />
is paired with <strong>the</strong> lamb, which has been slow-cooked for<br />
seven hours. Shane’s mo<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> late Miss Hattie, a great<br />
cook, was famed for her buds and rice, and souse. He<br />
understands and appreciates good food.<br />
His ease with his subject is down to a combination<br />
<strong>of</strong> experience and knowledge. In January 2012 Shane<br />
signed up for his first pr<strong>of</strong>essional wine course, <strong>the</strong> Level<br />
3 Certificate in Wines and Spirits at <strong>the</strong> Wines and Spirits<br />
Education Trust (WSET), a leading global provider <strong>of</strong> wine<br />
education. “I learned how to taste properly, to match<br />
food and wine. The main focus was an introduction to <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s major wine regions. We tasted everything from<br />
around <strong>the</strong> world,” he says.<br />
He passed with distinction and won <strong>the</strong> top scholarship<br />
— <strong>the</strong> Vintners’ Bursary — which awarded him a<br />
travel bursary to visit any wine region <strong>of</strong> his choice. He<br />
spent ten days in <strong>the</strong> Ahr Valley, Germany to increase his<br />
understanding <strong>of</strong> Pinot Noir wine.<br />
The diploma was <strong>the</strong> next step and was more challenging.<br />
“It was about being more critical. You form an<br />
opinion and have to defend it. It helps to understand<br />
wine’s quality and au<strong>the</strong>nticity. There’s more independent<br />
study, attending trade events, and reading trade<br />
publications. You have to know what’s happening in <strong>the</strong><br />
marketplace to prepare you for understanding <strong>the</strong> business<br />
better.” Shane achieved a Merit in <strong>the</strong> diploma — <strong>the</strong><br />
first Turks Islander to hold such a qualification. He also<br />
won <strong>the</strong> Moet and Chandon scholarship, which is what<br />
has brought us to France.<br />
The WSET qualification has opened up lots <strong>of</strong> career<br />
options for him. Diploma-holders work in <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fices<br />
<strong>of</strong> wine importers and manage portfolios <strong>of</strong> producers<br />
from around <strong>the</strong> world, ensuring representation in leading<br />
bars and restaurants. They also work as journalists,<br />
brand ambassadors, marketers, and auctioneers in auction<br />
house like Christie’s.<br />
To build up his knowledge and experience, Shane<br />
worked in wine retail at Oddbins, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest high<br />
street wine retailers in <strong>the</strong> UK, Decanter magazine (<strong>the</strong><br />
only UK consumer wine magazine), and various annual<br />
fine wine encounters. He has hosted tastings at <strong>the</strong> multinational<br />
British retailer, Marks and Spencer, and he also<br />
spent time at Vinopolis, <strong>the</strong> consumer wine destination<br />
in London, providing memorable consumer experiences,<br />
like matching chocolate or cheese with wine. One <strong>of</strong> his<br />
career highlights was hosting Champagne master classes<br />
on <strong>the</strong> iconic tourist destination, <strong>the</strong> London Eye. He’d<br />
recommend it to anyone living in, or visiting London.<br />
“It’s about enjoying an amazing drink while looking at an<br />
amazing city. Whenever I hosted it I just felt really lucky.”<br />
Through <strong>the</strong> wide range <strong>of</strong> work experiences he<br />
discovered his real passion was education. Wine is a subject<br />
he loves — he wants to get people to enjoy it also.<br />
“Teaching brings people toge<strong>the</strong>r from different backgrounds<br />
who want to understand a little bit more about<br />
this fantastic drink. It’s great to see people go on a journey<br />
and enjoy it. You feel so good when people take a<br />
shine to <strong>the</strong> subject.”<br />
Shane takes a particular shine to sparkling wines. “I<br />
bought my first case <strong>of</strong> Champagne in Grand Turk over<br />
15 years ago — I knew I liked it but it was years later<br />
that I made <strong>the</strong> effort to understand it better. The bubbles<br />
make it stand apart from anything else and it can<br />
be many different things — Champagne, cava, prosecco.<br />
I love <strong>the</strong> taste <strong>of</strong> it.” He enjoys quizzing winemaker,<br />
Pierre Casenave, at <strong>the</strong> Veuve Cliquot house in Rheims,<br />
about <strong>the</strong> technicalities <strong>of</strong> blending red and white wines<br />
for <strong>the</strong> perfect rosé composition. Afterwards we compare<br />
non-vintage and 2004 Veuve rosé Champagnes under<br />
<strong>the</strong> guidance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> charming Hospitality Manager and<br />
Ambassador Maison, Camille Berdin.<br />
18 www.timespub.tc
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Our tours <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cellars in <strong>the</strong> Moet and Veuve houses<br />
are an insight into <strong>the</strong> journey a bottle <strong>of</strong> wine takes to<br />
maturity. Moet’s cellars, <strong>the</strong> largest in <strong>the</strong> region, were<br />
carved out in <strong>the</strong> 17th and 18th centuries. They’re over<br />
17 miles long. It’s a romantic experience to walk through,<br />
and imagine <strong>the</strong> various processes being done by candlelight,<br />
before electrification. “I like to think <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong><br />
delicious Champagne being stored in waiting. It’s like a<br />
caterpillar transforming into a butterfly. The yeast sediment<br />
is removed, it’s bottled and labelled. The bottle<br />
<strong>the</strong>n takes <strong>of</strong>f as an adult to be enjoyed in ano<strong>the</strong>r part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world,” Shane enthuses.<br />
For someone who’s new to wine he recommends<br />
sparkling wines because that’s what he loves. But he’s<br />
quick to point out that everyone has a different reaction<br />
to wine when <strong>the</strong>y taste it. Shane’s most memorable<br />
reaction was to a Dom Perignon 1996 Champagne, at a<br />
Decanter magazine fine wine experience. “It was exhilarating<br />
and very overwhelming but so pleasurable. I can<br />
still taste <strong>the</strong> intensity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine. If I think <strong>of</strong> that wine<br />
I can taste it.” Dom Perignon is <strong>the</strong> Benedictine monk<br />
remembered in legend as <strong>the</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Champagne. We<br />
enjoy a glass <strong>of</strong> a 2006 Dom Perignon vintage, after <strong>the</strong><br />
Moet cellar tour.<br />
So how would he like to bring his knowledge and<br />
experience to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos? He says <strong>the</strong> wine scene<br />
is much better than when he was young, especially with<br />
people travelling more widely. But he’d still like to educate<br />
people to see how a local dish can be improved<br />
with wine. He’d also to train people directly involved in<br />
<strong>of</strong>fering wine to o<strong>the</strong>rs to do it in a better way, a more<br />
enthusiastic way. “It’s about educating customers and<br />
staff — from opening a bottle <strong>of</strong> wine to having <strong>the</strong> confidence<br />
to encourage a diner to be more adventurous,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n that customer stepping outside <strong>the</strong>ir comfort<br />
zone when ordering.”<br />
As we leave <strong>the</strong> Champagne region behind, I feel I’ve<br />
been given <strong>the</strong> confidence to be a little more adventurous<br />
in my taste. I’ve been lucky to be taken on a journey <strong>of</strong><br />
discovery with such a skilled and passionate wine expert<br />
as Shane. I also like to imagine that many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bottles<br />
<strong>of</strong> Champagne we saw in those French cellars will take<br />
flight, and be enjoyed in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. a<br />
Shane Jones’ wine experiences are available in London,<br />
UK and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. They include private and corporate<br />
tastings, introductory courses, workshops, and<br />
intensive training sessions. He may be contacted by email<br />
at shanedj@hotmail.com or on Twitter - @shane_d_jones<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 19
what’s new<br />
CLAIRE PARRISH<br />
Opposite page: Amber Hall, Miss Teen Turks & Caicos <strong>2015</strong>, models a selection <strong>of</strong> Wellington Williams’ original creations.<br />
Above: This is Wellington Williams in his downtown Provo workshop, where he lets loose his creativity!<br />
A Turks & Caicos Original<br />
Wellington Williams creates unique jewelry inspired by <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
By Zahrya Musgrove ~ Photos By Davidson Louis<br />
It’s not always easy being a young man or woman trying to get a business started in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. Besides a good idea and business plan, you need money . . . contacts . . . influence . . . time. That’s<br />
why we’re so impressed with 19 year old Wellington Williams. Not only is his handmade jewelry elegant and<br />
creative, reflecting <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s seas, but he has a determination that spreads to <strong>the</strong> horizon!<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 21
POC13-<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island 3 7-<strong>16</strong> x 6 3-8 Ad2 FNL.pdf 1 13-11-12 10:50 AM<br />
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Six one-bedroom villas.<br />
Dive operators at our dock<br />
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Fabulous beaches nearby.<br />
Ideal for couples or groups.<br />
Trip Advisor<br />
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E: harbourclub@tciway.tc<br />
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www.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.com<br />
Wellington Williams began his journey <strong>of</strong> becoming<br />
an entrepreneur at <strong>the</strong> very young age <strong>of</strong> eleven. It all<br />
started at Clement Howell High School in Providenciales<br />
when he began to sell Rastafarian jewelry to his fellow<br />
students. He quickly noticed that this was a very pr<strong>of</strong>itable<br />
business. From <strong>the</strong>n on, he took it on as a passion.<br />
After graduation, he went to <strong>the</strong> TCI Community College<br />
to study Hotel Management. From <strong>the</strong>re, he began<br />
his own business called Exclusive Accessories.co by Wellington<br />
Williams. Now he sells his work weekly at <strong>the</strong> Island<br />
Fish Fry and caters to fourteen different hotels and<br />
stores, including <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk cruise ship centre.<br />
Wellington said he picked <strong>the</strong> name Exclusive Accessories.co<br />
by Wellington Williams because his products<br />
are exclusive and he wanted a name that was unique.<br />
He choose jewelry-making as a business because it is<br />
something that he enjoys doing and it makes a pr<strong>of</strong>it.<br />
When asked about how he makes his jewelry, he was a bit<br />
close-mou<strong>the</strong>d, saying that it is a secret! But he did tell<br />
me what he uses: real starfish, sand, and seashells, along<br />
with a special construction liquid and thyme!<br />
Wellington says <strong>the</strong> next big project for his company<br />
is clothing. He wants to make clothing that showcases<br />
pieces and scenarios <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, utilizing such<br />
objects as <strong>the</strong> conch shell. In ten years time, Williams<br />
sees himself as a store owner with a variety <strong>of</strong> selections<br />
that will range from spa products, Christmas ornaments,<br />
clothing, and <strong>of</strong> course, jewelry.<br />
Although he currently works as a concierge/guest<br />
services agent at West Bay Club, Wellington comments,<br />
“They say it is always better when you work for yourself.”<br />
“It means that you don’t have to follow company rules,<br />
wear a uniform, work by a clock, and you are not getting<br />
<strong>the</strong> same salary every two weeks. You are <strong>the</strong> one cutting<br />
<strong>the</strong> checks, you keep all <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>its for yourself, you decide<br />
your attire, and work on your own time. You are in<br />
control <strong>of</strong> what you do.”<br />
He told me that one <strong>of</strong> his biggest challenges was<br />
when he asked to join a jewelry-making company in <strong>the</strong><br />
Young Enterprise program, but he was turned down by<br />
<strong>the</strong> owners. At <strong>the</strong> time he thought it was a bad thing<br />
but now he sees that without that decision, he may never<br />
have started his own company. A boost to his confidence<br />
came when <strong>the</strong> company that he did join won “Company<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year” honors. He now thanks <strong>the</strong> people who<br />
turned him down because it spurred him towards becoming<br />
a successful entrepreneur.<br />
Wellington said that he still faced <strong>the</strong> challenge <strong>of</strong><br />
getting people to let him sell his product in <strong>the</strong>ir stores<br />
22 www.timespub.tc
BH_<strong>Times</strong><strong>of</strong>Island<strong>2015</strong>.qxp_BH_timesisland 11/<strong>16</strong>/15 13:17 Page 2<br />
e x e c u t i v e c h e f<br />
c r i s t i a n r e bol l edo<br />
kitch en 2 18<br />
W W W . B E A C H H O U S E T C I . C O M<br />
6 4 9 . 9 4 6 . 5 8 0 0<br />
This sampling <strong>of</strong> Exclusive Accessories by Wellington Williams shows<br />
<strong>the</strong> fine craftsmanship and strong marine influence.<br />
and boutiques. He explained, “People were not willing to<br />
take a chance on me.” He was competing against o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
jewelry-makers as well as “Made in China” products. He<br />
expressed his concern that tourists would ra<strong>the</strong>r buy ten<br />
$3 bracelets to take home ra<strong>the</strong>r than one $30 bracelet.<br />
He overcame this challenge by advertising his product<br />
better. He also reassured buyers and store owners<br />
that, although his products may be slightly more expensive,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are <strong>of</strong> a better quality and <strong>the</strong>refore worth<br />
every dollar. Their uniqueness and appeal comes from<br />
being handmade in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
After all <strong>of</strong> his trial and error he now sees that everything<br />
happened for a reason and that it has all worked<br />
out for <strong>the</strong> best. He wants to tell young and upcoming<br />
entrepreneurs to never give up because in <strong>the</strong> end <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is a reward for all <strong>of</strong> your hard work. a<br />
Zahrya Musgrove is a fourteen year old student <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
British West Indies Collegiate. Her dream is to go into<br />
a career field, such as journalism, where she can be a<br />
brave and confident voice expressing thoughts in <strong>the</strong><br />
form <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> written word on current issues.<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 23
green pages<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc<br />
The Spiny lobster uses reef structure for habitat as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir adult phase.<br />
No Place Like Home<br />
South Caicos is <strong>the</strong> base for monitoring <strong>the</strong> Spiny lobster.<br />
By Kathy Lockhart, M.S., Lily Zhao and Heidi Hertler, Ph.D.,<br />
School for Field Studies, Center for Marine Resource Studies<br />
“Beautiful by Nature” has defined <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> for many years. While pristine coral reefs,<br />
abundant megafauna, and a unique cultural heritage may be <strong>the</strong> first beauties that come to mind, one<br />
should not overlook local fisheries that provide economic stability and community cohesion. In fact,<br />
beauty may be in <strong>the</strong> eye <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> beholder, as many persons would agree that <strong>the</strong> Panulirus argus (spiny<br />
lobster) is not <strong>the</strong> most attractive organism to look at, but is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most economically sought species<br />
in <strong>the</strong> TCI. The country’s three main commercial fisheries include: spiny lobster, queen conch, and<br />
fin-fish. Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se fisheries is supported by <strong>the</strong> diverse marine environment surrounding <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
including sand flats, mangrove forest, sea grass beds, and fringing reefs.<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
South Caicos (coined <strong>the</strong> “Big South” during its reign<br />
as <strong>the</strong> epicenter <strong>of</strong> TCI’s salt industry), is <strong>the</strong> fishing capital<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In recent history, conch<br />
and lobster have replaced salt as <strong>the</strong> economic driver<br />
<strong>of</strong> South Caicos. Seventy percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population is<br />
involved in <strong>the</strong> commercial fisheries and ei<strong>the</strong>r directly or<br />
indirectly depends upon <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong>ir livelihood.<br />
The spiny lobster is a crustacean (a group <strong>of</strong> organisms<br />
with segmented bodies and exoskeletons which <strong>the</strong>y<br />
must molt to grow) that lives in <strong>the</strong> shallow clear waters <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Banks. The lobster has been used as a<br />
source <strong>of</strong> protein since <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s<br />
first indigenous people, as early as 750 A.D. The importance<br />
<strong>of</strong> this species to <strong>the</strong> economy has grown as both<br />
tourism and international trade, particularly with regards<br />
to <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />
Fishing methods have developed over <strong>the</strong> years with<br />
more sophisticated techniques and preservation <strong>of</strong> final<br />
products. In <strong>the</strong> mid-1950s, <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster were captured<br />
with “bully nets” or <strong>the</strong> “toss”, which snared <strong>the</strong><br />
lobster and pulled <strong>the</strong>m from <strong>the</strong>ir dens. Fishermen <strong>the</strong>n<br />
threw <strong>the</strong> lobster into a waiting vessel. Today, fishermen<br />
free-dive with mask, fins, and snorkel to depths <strong>of</strong> more<br />
than 40 feet and “hook” lobster, <strong>the</strong>n return to <strong>the</strong> boat<br />
and continue <strong>the</strong> tradition <strong>of</strong> throwing <strong>the</strong> catch into <strong>the</strong><br />
waiting vessel. These free-diving activities now account for<br />
approximately 95% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fishing activity for <strong>the</strong> species,<br />
with traps and artificial habitats making up <strong>the</strong> remaining<br />
5%.<br />
The commercial lobster industry has grown since <strong>the</strong><br />
1970s with <strong>the</strong> introduction <strong>of</strong> freezer technology and<br />
more advanced preservation techniques. With an ever<br />
increasing local tourism market, spiny lobsters are being<br />
sought for not only <strong>the</strong> export market, but local cuisine. It<br />
is now that <strong>the</strong> need for sustainable stocks is most important<br />
for economy and <strong>the</strong> preservation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species.<br />
The TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Environment and Maritime<br />
Affairs (DEMA) monitor <strong>the</strong> species and <strong>the</strong> commercial<br />
landings, as <strong>the</strong> fishery does not belong to only <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI. As with many species, spiny lobsters practice larval<br />
dispersal. As <strong>the</strong> eggs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster are released<br />
From top: The spiny lobster is commercially landed at <strong>the</strong> processing<br />
facility on South Caicos.<br />
This map shows <strong>the</strong> dispersal <strong>of</strong> spiny lobster larvae in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean<br />
region.<br />
This is a diagram <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life cycle for <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster.<br />
EVA RAMEY WWW.1YACHTUS.COM INSTITUTE OF MARINE RESEARCH<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 25
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and transformed into transparent larvae, <strong>the</strong>y are carried<br />
hundreds <strong>of</strong> miles in ocean currents. For example, it is<br />
possible that lobsters landed in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas originally<br />
hatched in Turks & Caicos waters. Countries wishing to<br />
monitor local stocks must determine what stocks <strong>the</strong>y will<br />
consider local or “home.”<br />
Although spiny lobster stock assessments and factors<br />
affecting recruitment success have been studied elsewhere<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, resource management plans are<br />
most successful when local human and ecological pressures<br />
have been taken into consideration. For example,<br />
<strong>the</strong> growth rate and frequency <strong>of</strong> molt for spiny lobster<br />
are dependent upon water temperature, food availability,<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r environmental factors that change depending<br />
on location. Including <strong>the</strong>se parameters in a monitoring<br />
program help to understand <strong>the</strong> success (and sometimes<br />
failure) <strong>of</strong> a stock.<br />
With most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> commercial catch being landed on<br />
South Caicos, an opportunity exists to monitor this species<br />
more closely. So in <strong>the</strong> early 1990s, DEMA (previously<br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Environment and Coastal Resources DECR)<br />
increased its monitoring <strong>of</strong> individual lobster at <strong>the</strong> commercial<br />
landing sites in South Caicos.<br />
As with many small nations, resources are <strong>of</strong>ten limited<br />
and as part <strong>of</strong> an ongoing collaboration between<br />
<strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource<br />
Studies (SFS CMRS) and DEMA, <strong>the</strong> school has been able<br />
to provide assistance with data collection. In 2014, CMRS<br />
<strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong>ir assistance to consistently collect valuable<br />
information that may help to describe what is happening<br />
with <strong>the</strong> local spiny lobster stock and assist <strong>the</strong> stakeholders<br />
with open discussions about <strong>the</strong> fishery. Several<br />
South Caicos commercial processors and fishermen have<br />
volunteered to work in collaboration with SFS to ga<strong>the</strong>r<br />
information.<br />
SFS CMRS staff and students visit local processing<br />
facilities where <strong>the</strong>y take multiple samples <strong>of</strong> lobster.<br />
DEMA, given <strong>the</strong> mandate <strong>of</strong> natural resource protection<br />
and management, became accountable for collection<br />
and monitoring this species and has more than 35 years<br />
<strong>of</strong> continuous commercial catch data. Commercial landings<br />
have oscillated over <strong>the</strong> years with highs in 2006<br />
(446.4 MT) to lows <strong>of</strong> <strong>16</strong>0.1 MT in 2008, with an average<br />
<strong>of</strong> 279.2 MT over <strong>the</strong> past ten years. Stakeholders, fishermen,<br />
processors, and government <strong>of</strong>ficials are aware<br />
that catch data do not provide enough information on <strong>the</strong><br />
status and sustainability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species. Catch per Unit<br />
Effort (CPUE) not only accounts for weight, but effort put<br />
forth by fisher to capture <strong>the</strong> product (boat-days). CPUE<br />
provides a more accurate indication on <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
species with regards to <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> effort placed on <strong>the</strong><br />
species. CPUE has risen and fallen, but <strong>the</strong> overall trend<br />
for <strong>the</strong> past ten years is declining.<br />
SFS staff and students both measure and weigh samples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spiny<br />
lobster at processing facilities in South Caicos.<br />
KATHY LOCKHART<br />
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As each vessel enters <strong>the</strong> weighing station, a sub-sample<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> catch is collected. Each individual is weighed,<br />
measured by carapace length, and sex, sexual maturity,<br />
molting stage, and reproductive stage are determined.<br />
Fishers are asked where <strong>the</strong>y captured most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
product and at what depth. The data is provided to all<br />
stakeholders. This in turns acts like a “springboard” for<br />
open discussions between TCI Government, fishers and<br />
processing operators.<br />
In addition to assisting DEMA with commercial catch<br />
information on <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster, SFS has also monitored<br />
juvenile recruitment that is independent <strong>of</strong> commercial<br />
catches. After extensive evaluation, one site near South<br />
Caicos was selected for <strong>the</strong> study. Here, ten juvenile<br />
lobster “condos” have been deployed since 2008 and<br />
monitored for numbers <strong>of</strong> juveniles to recruit to <strong>the</strong>se<br />
condos. The habitat for this location is that <strong>of</strong> Larencia<br />
sp., an alga in which juvenile lobsters find safety from<br />
predators and an available supply <strong>of</strong> food.<br />
Once a month, SFS CMRS staff and students visit <strong>the</strong><br />
“condos” and collect all juvenile lobster. Individuals are<br />
measured for carapace length, sex, and stage <strong>of</strong> molting.<br />
These lobsters are <strong>the</strong>n released to continue <strong>the</strong>ir growth<br />
and progression into <strong>the</strong> fishery. This information can<br />
be used with commercial catch data for comparison and<br />
potential predictions <strong>of</strong> future commercial catches.<br />
Fishing industries are <strong>of</strong>ten prime illustrations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
universal push-and-pull between economic and preservation<br />
interests. While maintaining this delicate balance<br />
is still difficult for <strong>the</strong> TCI spiny lobster, South Caicos<br />
stakeholders have assembled <strong>the</strong> collaboration needed to<br />
monitor, predict, and <strong>the</strong>reby mitigate potential declines<br />
in spiny lobster stock and recruitment levels. Continued<br />
collaboration between economic and ecological interests<br />
will lead to mutually beneficial marine management<br />
strategies for TCI fisheries. With increasing stakeholder<br />
involvement, DEMA guidance, and research support from<br />
<strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies, we can be proactive to protect<br />
<strong>the</strong>se economically important species. a<br />
The School for Field Studies (SFS) is a US-based academic<br />
institution that provides multidisciplinary, field-based<br />
environmental study abroad opportunities to undergraduate<br />
university students. Each SFS program (nine in total)<br />
highlights a different region <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, with its own<br />
distinct cultural and ecological characteristics and unique<br />
From top: SFS interns collect juvenile lobsters from “condos,” measure<br />
<strong>the</strong>m as part <strong>of</strong> faculty’s ongoing research, <strong>the</strong>n release <strong>the</strong>m<br />
back into <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
environmental challenges. Faculty and students at <strong>the</strong> SFS<br />
CMRS on South Caicos work in close cooperation with local<br />
partners including <strong>the</strong> TCI’s Department <strong>of</strong> Environment<br />
and Maritime Affairs (DEMA), TCReef Inc. (www.tcreef.<br />
org), and local fishermen and processing plants to protect<br />
and enhance <strong>the</strong> management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island’s coral reefs<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r marine resources. To learn more, go to www.<br />
fieldstudies.org/tci. a<br />
KATHY LOCKHART EVA RAMEY SCHOOL FOR FIELD STUDIES<br />
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Green Living in <strong>the</strong> TCI:<br />
15 steps you can adopt to make a change!<br />
By Amy Avenant, DEMA Environment Outreach Coordinator<br />
“Green Living.” We hear <strong>the</strong> term thrown around on television,<br />
radio, and social media sites, but what exactly<br />
does it mean and how can you start “living green?” In<br />
laymen’s terms, living green and sustainably means<br />
creating a lifestyle that works with nature and does<br />
no long-term or irreversible damage to any part <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> environmental web. This is <strong>the</strong> ideal, but do not<br />
be discouraged! Here are 15 small steps that you can<br />
incorporate into your everyday life that will make a<br />
world <strong>of</strong> difference to Planet Earth:<br />
• Stop <strong>the</strong> junk mail<br />
Sure, we don’t have an extensive postal system in <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI, but if given <strong>the</strong> choice, opt for electronic bills and<br />
pay your utilities online. Fortis TCI <strong>of</strong>fers a convenient<br />
online bill payment service, which both allows you to<br />
avoid long queues and to save paper (www.fortistci.<br />
com/bill-payment).<br />
• Give up bottled water<br />
Disposable plastic water bottles are not meant for multiple<br />
uses. A plastic bottle made from #1 polyethylene<br />
terephthalate (PET) is fine for a single use, but reuse<br />
can lead to bacterial growth and leaching <strong>of</strong> dangerous<br />
chemicals. Apart from <strong>the</strong> health risk, bottled water is<br />
expensive! Make use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water dispensers dotted<br />
around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to refill one or five gallon bottles,<br />
store water in recycled glass bottles in <strong>the</strong> fridge, and<br />
never leave home without your reusable water bottle.<br />
(Metal is usually best.) And while you’re at it, drink your<br />
beverages without <strong>the</strong> unnecessary plastic straw.<br />
• Reduce your waste<br />
Reducing <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> waste you bring in and <strong>the</strong><br />
amount <strong>of</strong> trash that goes to <strong>the</strong> landfill is an important<br />
part <strong>of</strong> any green lifestyle. But <strong>the</strong>re’s a lot more to it<br />
than just recycling plastic or throwing your trash in a<br />
bin. Make a composting pile in your backyard — one<br />
that allows for <strong>the</strong> natural decomposition <strong>of</strong> organic<br />
waste without having it rot in <strong>the</strong> depths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> landfill.<br />
Re-use and recycle when and where you can: glass bottles,<br />
tin cans and plastic containers can all be re-used<br />
Green living is easy in <strong>the</strong> TCI! You just need to get going.<br />
or recycled to have a completely new use. Don’t forget to<br />
take your re-usable shopping bags to <strong>the</strong> grocery store!<br />
• Conserve Energy<br />
Don’t leave your door wide open while <strong>the</strong> A/C is running.<br />
Unplug appliances not in use. Switch lights <strong>of</strong>f when not<br />
in <strong>the</strong> room. Make use <strong>of</strong> eco-friendly light bulbs and<br />
use rechargeable batteries. These are just a few tips that<br />
could assist you with saving energy and reducing utilities<br />
bills. The Internet is filled with energy-saving tips,<br />
just remember to switch your computer <strong>of</strong>f when you are<br />
done!<br />
• Conserve water<br />
An estimated 50% <strong>of</strong> all household water usage is wasted.<br />
It goes down <strong>the</strong> drain while we wait for it to warm up or<br />
evaporates more quickly than it needs to. In an era when<br />
our fresh water supply is diminishing due to pollution<br />
and drought, it’s important to conserve all <strong>the</strong> water we<br />
can, as well as learn about and put to use greywater recycling<br />
practices. Re-use your laundry water on your lawn<br />
or to wash your car; close <strong>the</strong> tap while you brush your<br />
teeth; limit your shower time — it really boils down (pardon<br />
<strong>the</strong> pun) to using water consciously.<br />
• Green your transportation<br />
Bicycling, walking, or carpooling are <strong>the</strong> best ways to<br />
commute sustainably. Inflating your car tires, driving<br />
slower, and combining trips will all help you save gas<br />
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green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
when driving is necessary. And for long trips, purchase<br />
carbon <strong>of</strong>fsets which invest your money into alternative<br />
energies.<br />
• Go chemical-free<br />
Forego toxic chemicals such as chlorine and choose<br />
sustainable options when cleaning your home or gardening<br />
(vinegar is a great base for most natural cleaning<br />
agents). You’ll not only limit disposable containers and<br />
save money, you’ll create a healthy living environment<br />
for your family at <strong>the</strong> same time.<br />
• Green your personal care<br />
Simplify your personal care with natural products:<br />
bicarbonate <strong>of</strong> soda can be used to make toothpaste<br />
and deodorant when mixed with some essential oils.<br />
Take sink baths to reduce water, use organic products<br />
or no products at all, opt for an easy to manage haircut.<br />
Also remember that healthy food leads to healthy skin<br />
and body.<br />
• Raise healthy, eco-conscious children<br />
Okay, let’s zoom out to some bigger choices we can<br />
make. Raising our kids to be healthy and aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
environment is crucial. Model with your actions and<br />
talk about <strong>the</strong> choices you make. Don’t nag or lecture,<br />
but instead make it interesting and interactive. The<br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Maritime Affairs arranges<br />
frequent clean-ups and environmental awareness programs/competitions<br />
that kids can get involved in.<br />
• Support locally-owned businesses<br />
Small businesses are more likely to support o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
businesses within <strong>the</strong> community, care for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
environment, and conduct business in an environmentally-responsible<br />
way. They also work harder for your<br />
business, contribute more to charitable causes, create<br />
more jobs, limit outsourcing, and keep money circulating<br />
within a community, among many o<strong>the</strong>r things.<br />
reasons why green living matters with <strong>the</strong> myriad <strong>of</strong><br />
resources on <strong>the</strong> internet and in libraries. The National<br />
Environmental Centre, at DEMA, is a great resource to<br />
educate yourself on <strong>the</strong> natural environment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />
• Educate o<strong>the</strong>rs (gently)<br />
The biggest influence you can have on o<strong>the</strong>rs is through<br />
your actions and your attitude. Be open and honest<br />
about your choices, but without judgment. Don’t push<br />
<strong>the</strong> matter, just let your example be inspiration and<br />
keep <strong>the</strong> lines <strong>of</strong> communication open so that friends<br />
or family will have a seasoned pro to turn to when <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are looking for ways to go green.<br />
• Build a strong community<br />
We live within a very disconnected culture, even on our<br />
tiny islands. Make time to care for yourself and find<br />
enjoyment in your life. Make talking and laughing with<br />
loved ones a priority. Volunteer and help those in need.<br />
Be a part <strong>of</strong> your community. And rediscover <strong>the</strong> wonders<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world by enjoying nature walks, planting<br />
trees, organizing neighbourhood clean-ups, learning<br />
about <strong>the</strong> native plant and bird species, all as ways to<br />
go green.<br />
• Contact your representatives<br />
Email or call your community representative or district<br />
commissioner and ask <strong>the</strong>m what your community is<br />
doing to go green. Remain in contact with <strong>the</strong>m, attend<br />
public consultation meetings, and vote with your conscience<br />
instead <strong>of</strong> your party line.<br />
• Invest in carbon <strong>of</strong>fsets<br />
Even <strong>the</strong> greenest lifestyle still has an impact. Lessen<br />
yours by switching to solar energy or investing in carbon<br />
<strong>of</strong>fsets. The money you spend to go solar soon<br />
pays itself back in rebates and monthly refunds and<br />
purchasing <strong>the</strong>se credits will be invested into alternative<br />
energies or o<strong>the</strong>r sustainable ventures.<br />
• Continue to educate yourself<br />
As you’re practicing <strong>the</strong>se ways to go green you’ll<br />
likely spark a lot <strong>of</strong> conversations. Get familiar with <strong>the</strong><br />
So now you have no excuse! Kick-start your green<br />
life with <strong>the</strong>se 15 easy tips and, don’t forget: when in<br />
doubt, pop into DEMA for some advice! a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 29
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This juvenile Nassau grouper is showing typical behavior <strong>of</strong> remaining stationary in a rock ledge as snorkelers or divers swim by.<br />
The Iconic Nassau Grouper<br />
Regionally endangered, locally abundant<br />
Story & Photos by John Claydon, PhD & Marta Calosso, MS, MA — TCI Nassau Grouper Project leaders<br />
Go on any SCUBA dive or snorkel trip in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and you would be very unlucky not to<br />
see a Nassau grouper or two. It is no exaggeration to say that <strong>the</strong>re is nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world where<br />
you encounter this species so frequently. When <strong>the</strong>y see you from a distance, <strong>the</strong>y usually remain quite<br />
stationary except to turn <strong>the</strong>ir heads to track your movement as you swim by. Often <strong>the</strong>y can be curious,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>y may approach divers — however, this is typically a sign that <strong>the</strong> fish is accustomed to being fed<br />
which should not be encouraged.<br />
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It is also quite easy to find <strong>the</strong>m on a dinner plate:<br />
many restaurants will <strong>of</strong>fer this locally caught fish, usually<br />
listed simply as “grouper” on <strong>the</strong> menu. We take this<br />
for granted, but in some o<strong>the</strong>r countries Nassau groupers<br />
have become so rare that it is illegal to catch <strong>the</strong>m. In fact,<br />
<strong>the</strong> species is considered endangered by <strong>the</strong> International<br />
Union for <strong>the</strong> Conservation <strong>of</strong> Nature, <strong>the</strong> organisation<br />
tasked with assessing species’ risks <strong>of</strong> extinction.<br />
Nassau grouper is usually considered to be a coral<br />
reef fish, but that is a little misleading. When grouper<br />
spawn, eggs are released high above <strong>the</strong> substratum;<br />
eggs <strong>the</strong>n hatch into larvae and spend about forty days<br />
in <strong>the</strong> water column drifting <strong>of</strong>fshore and potentially dispersing<br />
long distances in <strong>the</strong> currents. Eventually, once<br />
<strong>the</strong>y have grown about an inch long and become capable<br />
swimmers, larvae are ready to swim back to shallow areas<br />
and settle, but typically <strong>the</strong> habitats <strong>the</strong>y choose are not<br />
reefs, but seagrass or algal areas.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> TCI, early juvenile Nassau grouper <strong>of</strong>ten use<br />
discarded conch shells and “blowout” ledges — <strong>the</strong> shelter<br />
formed by exposed roots and rhizomes in seagrass<br />
beds. After spending about a year in <strong>the</strong>ir early juvenile<br />
habitats, Nassau grouper migrate to shallow patch reefs,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n to deeper reefs, where <strong>the</strong>y become reproductively<br />
mature at four to eight years <strong>of</strong> age. While some reef<br />
fishes breed year-round, Nassau grouper has a very short<br />
spawning season <strong>of</strong> two to three months only, which in<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI runs from December to <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> February and<br />
synchronises with a phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> moon. Nassau grouper<br />
breeding can be spectacular: <strong>the</strong>y form aggregations<br />
<strong>of</strong> thousands (reportedly up to one hundred thousand)<br />
with individuals capable <strong>of</strong> migrating over sixty miles to<br />
spawn at <strong>the</strong> same location year after year.<br />
Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong> demise <strong>of</strong> Nassau grouper<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> region is directly linked to fishing spawning<br />
aggregations. Large numbers <strong>of</strong> big fish found at <strong>the</strong><br />
same time and place each year are attractive targets for<br />
fishers, but such fishing has rarely been sustainable, and<br />
sometimes an aggregation <strong>of</strong> tens <strong>of</strong> thousands can be<br />
“fished out” in a few years. When this happens, <strong>the</strong> local<br />
population crashes, <strong>the</strong> fishery is no longer viable, and<br />
your chances <strong>of</strong> seeing one on a dive are close to zero.<br />
From top right: Nassau grouper are common fare in TCI. Here, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are shown at <strong>the</strong> fishing dock in South Caicos.<br />
Renowned local fisherman and free-diver Conrad Kennedy displays<br />
his impressive catch <strong>of</strong> Nassau grouper in South Caicos.<br />
Early juvenile Nassau groupers commonly shelter in discarded conch<br />
shells.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 31
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
Even worse, <strong>the</strong>re are few signs <strong>of</strong> populations recovering.<br />
Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> TCI has been quite lucky compared<br />
to rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> region: commercial and export fisheries<br />
have focused on lobster and conch, and although most<br />
fishers know about <strong>the</strong> aggregations, <strong>the</strong>y do not fish<br />
<strong>the</strong>m much. The single most effective management<br />
strategy is to prevent such fishing, and although <strong>the</strong><br />
pressure is currently low, it does appear to be growing.<br />
Consequently, as a proactive measure, Nassau grouper<br />
will be protected during <strong>the</strong>ir breeding season (December<br />
1 to February 28) through Amendments to <strong>the</strong> Fisheries<br />
Protection Ordinance introduced earlier this year. During<br />
this closed season, Nassau grouper will be <strong>of</strong>f-limits to<br />
fishers and <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> menu in restaurants, in much <strong>the</strong> same<br />
way as <strong>the</strong> closed season for spiny lobster.<br />
The social and ecological dynamics <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nassau<br />
grouper fishery and <strong>the</strong> species’ ecology in <strong>the</strong> TCI is<br />
<strong>the</strong> focus <strong>of</strong> an ongoing research collaboration between<br />
DEMA, <strong>the</strong> Reef Environmental Education Foundation,<br />
Oregon State University, and Scripps Institution <strong>of</strong><br />
Oceanography, UC San Diego. Our goals are to better<br />
understand <strong>the</strong> complex dynamics <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nassau grouper<br />
fishery in <strong>the</strong> TCI and to document <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> spawning<br />
aggregations and <strong>the</strong> stocks in general, so that <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI can continue to enjoy its unique status where fishers<br />
can still catch groupers, tourists can still see <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong><br />
water, and everyone can enjoy eating <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
The project was initiated in 2014 through a grant<br />
from The Flagship Species Fund, Fauna and Flora<br />
International which enabled us to spend three months<br />
all over <strong>the</strong> TCI conducting interviews with fishers and<br />
various stakeholders, monitoring dock landings, collecting<br />
biological samples, and tagging Nassau groupers on<br />
SCUBA. We are very grateful for <strong>the</strong> support provided<br />
by Big Blue Unlimited, The School for Field Studies, MV<br />
Glen Ellen, and a friend <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund.<br />
Special thanks go to <strong>the</strong> community <strong>of</strong> South Caicos. a<br />
From top left: Dr. Scott Heppell, Marta Calosso, and Dr. John Claydon<br />
stand ready to tag Nassau grouper on SCUBA with Big Blue Unlimited.<br />
Dr. John Claydon collects biological samples from a mature Nassau<br />
grouper at Caicos Fisheries Ltd. processing plant in South Caicos.<br />
Marta Calosso interviews former DEMA Fisheries Officer Christopher<br />
Hall about historical changes in <strong>the</strong> fisheries.<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
This juvenile White Ibis was spotted feeding in a pond in Wheeland in Providenciales.<br />
ERIC F. SALAMANCA<br />
Birding in Paradise<br />
New guidebook series highlights birdwatching hotspots.<br />
By B Naqqi Manco<br />
For birdwatchers, eco-tourists, and independent travellers, <strong>the</strong>re is a new source <strong>of</strong> help in finding<br />
one’s way around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Since much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tourism in TCI is beach-related, it can<br />
prove a challenge to locate sites <strong>of</strong> interest away from <strong>the</strong> coasts. Exploring <strong>the</strong> family islands outside<br />
Providenciales also has some difficulties when one is not familiar with <strong>the</strong> geography and <strong>the</strong> hidden<br />
wonders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se special islands, since signage remains largely lacking.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 33
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
The Birding in Paradise series features five booklets<br />
focusing on Providenciales, Grand Turk, Salt Cay, South<br />
Caicos, and North and Middle Caicos (combined). The<br />
booklets feature accurate aerial photography maps with<br />
driving directions to birding sites, and walking directions<br />
for those that involve foot access. Also outlined<br />
are travel and ground logistics for visiting o<strong>the</strong>r sites <strong>of</strong><br />
interest including support facilities and contact numbers.<br />
Introductions to <strong>the</strong> history, geology, and culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> round out <strong>the</strong> general appeal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> booklets.<br />
Full-colour photos <strong>of</strong> birds likely to be seen at various<br />
sites fulfil <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> field guide, and o<strong>the</strong>r wildlife<br />
is featured in detail as well. A comprehensive driving<br />
tour <strong>of</strong> each island, to cover all sites available, is fully<br />
described in detail with distances noted.<br />
Visitors can feel confident in exploration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> on <strong>the</strong>ir own with <strong>the</strong> appropriate island booklet<br />
in hand. This was <strong>the</strong> aim <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> authors, who have<br />
worked closely with various conservation bodies in TCI<br />
for nearly twenty years. The booklets were produced<br />
through a partnership <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum Foundation and <strong>the</strong> United Kingdom Overseas<br />
Territories Conservation Forum (UKOTCF), a federation<br />
<strong>of</strong> conservation bodies across all <strong>the</strong> UK Territories,<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r with supporting ones in Britain. In-kind support<br />
also came from <strong>the</strong> TCI Government’s Department<br />
<strong>of</strong> Environment & Maritime Affairs and <strong>the</strong> ecotourism<br />
sector.<br />
Following <strong>the</strong> release <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> booklets, a brilliant<br />
response came from our neighbours to <strong>the</strong> north, where<br />
accomplished Bahamas birder Tony White stated, “TCI is<br />
. . . <strong>of</strong>ten overlooked as a birding destination, but it has<br />
a variety <strong>of</strong> easily seen Caribbean specialties (It is <strong>the</strong><br />
only place outside Cuba where you can see <strong>the</strong> Cuban<br />
Crow.) and a comfortable, well-developed infrastructure<br />
. . . a new series . . . Birding in Paradise . . . toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
cover all <strong>the</strong> accessible islands in <strong>the</strong> territory. They are<br />
excellent and could be used as prototypes for guides to<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean islands. I have birded on islands covered<br />
by three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> five booklets. The new guides cover all <strong>the</strong><br />
birding sites I know and more. I look forward to visiting<br />
<strong>the</strong> remaining islands and new sites on <strong>the</strong> islands I have<br />
already visited. These books will make my birding much<br />
easier and more successful.”<br />
34 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />
Fur<strong>the</strong>r accolades came when <strong>the</strong> booklets were<br />
presented in various international fora, including <strong>the</strong><br />
UKOTCF’s “Sustaining Partnerships” conservation conference<br />
in Gibraltar in July <strong>2015</strong>. Conservation partners<br />
from Montserrat were so impressed when <strong>the</strong>y saw<br />
<strong>the</strong> books on publication that <strong>the</strong>y asked for one for<br />
Montserrat that UKOTCF has just published!<br />
Copies <strong>of</strong> each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> books are available at $10 each<br />
from <strong>the</strong> TC National Museum on both Provo and Grand<br />
Turk, Unicorn Books, and several o<strong>the</strong>r outlets. For those<br />
who want to buy a downloadable pdf version for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
tablet or computer (and for printed copies to be sent<br />
to o<strong>the</strong>r countries), go to www.ukotcf.org/birding-in-<br />
Turks-and-Caicos/birding-in-turks-and-caicos.cfm.<br />
UKOTCF has worked in support <strong>of</strong> many local partners<br />
in TCI for about twenty years. These books were<br />
designed in consultation with local businesspeople, conservationists<br />
and educators, to help expand <strong>the</strong> types<br />
<strong>of</strong> tourism and extend <strong>the</strong> season, while protecting <strong>the</strong><br />
natural environment, and to provide an information and<br />
education resource for local residents. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 35
DAVID GALLARDO–WORLD OF OCEANS
feature<br />
Opposite page: This shot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral reefs surrounding <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos reminds us <strong>of</strong> why we need to care about our oceans.<br />
Above: Ocean Country author Liz Cunningham takes a look at a sea turtle hatchling being cared for by Eiglys Trejo during one <strong>of</strong> Liz’s many<br />
visits to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Her “turtle encounter” is described in <strong>the</strong> book.<br />
Ocean Country<br />
Quest to save <strong>the</strong> seas starts in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Excerpts By Liz Cunningham<br />
Liz Cunningham’s new book, Ocean Country holds a special place in my heart. The focus <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> book is<br />
how people around <strong>the</strong> world are practicing “hope in action,” and why it’s time for all <strong>of</strong> us to join <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
It describe’s Liz’s two year global journey to discover how communities and individuals are fighting to<br />
save <strong>the</strong> marine world that every living being depends on.<br />
I met Liz four years ago when she was on her first trip back to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> since 1991<br />
— a visit which spurred <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> this groundbreaking book. Liz contributed a beautiful, lyrical<br />
piece entitled “Simple Truths” for <strong>the</strong> Fall 2011 issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, along with a second piece,<br />
“A Mosaic <strong>of</strong> Life” for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> 2012/13 issue. We’ve kept in touch, and I am honored to have witnessed<br />
<strong>the</strong> conception and birth <strong>of</strong> Ocean Country. I hope <strong>the</strong> excerpts printed here encourage you to read <strong>the</strong><br />
entire book: it is an adventure story, poetic meditation, and, most importantly, a call to action.<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 37
In this excerpt from Chapter 1, “Beauty,” Liz is<br />
returning to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> “<strong>the</strong> place<br />
where I’d fallen in love with <strong>the</strong> undersea world,” after<br />
spending 12 years recovering from a kayak accident<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r health problems.<br />
The next day, our boat motored to <strong>the</strong> Northwest<br />
Point—nicknamed “<strong>the</strong> Point”—where <strong>the</strong> violet blue <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Atlantic trench almost touches <strong>the</strong> island. The number<br />
<strong>of</strong> buildings slowly thinned until <strong>the</strong>re was practically<br />
no sign <strong>of</strong> civilization, and <strong>the</strong> shoreline was just a narrow<br />
slice <strong>of</strong> green jungle. A tern hovered above <strong>the</strong> bow.<br />
A school <strong>of</strong> flying fish darted across <strong>the</strong> water’s surface.<br />
My dive buddy that day was a woman from Paris. She<br />
explained to me in broken English that she would need a<br />
few moments in <strong>the</strong> water to get used to her gear, as she<br />
had not been diving for several months. “I will need <strong>the</strong><br />
moment,” she said, “to recover my sensations.”<br />
I smiled. Who could have said it better?<br />
After jumping in <strong>the</strong> water and finding our equilibrium<br />
as “weightless aquatic mammals,” we swam to what<br />
was called <strong>the</strong> “wall,” where <strong>the</strong> reef descended to <strong>the</strong><br />
continental shelf. Then, with a long outbreath, we sank<br />
in silence into that luminous, deep blue.<br />
Once we were a hundred or so feet deep, something<br />
changed, as if we’d let go <strong>of</strong> terra firma and its last<br />
vestigial remnant, <strong>the</strong> water’s surface, and abandoned<br />
ourselves to <strong>the</strong> open, watery realm. Its sensations were<br />
at once foreign and yet hauntingly familiar; it seemed to<br />
wake pr<strong>of</strong>ound, archaic memories.<br />
We descended through a narrow, vertical corridor <strong>of</strong><br />
coral like <strong>the</strong> fluted vault <strong>of</strong> a ca<strong>the</strong>dral. It was filled with<br />
thousands <strong>of</strong> tiny silvery fish—silversides. The beauty<br />
was overwhelming. For a moment, my body felt like a<br />
tuning fork; <strong>the</strong> beauty was so resonant that it reverberated<br />
through my breath and bones.<br />
As we descended, <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef changed every<br />
ten feet or so, <strong>the</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral becoming wider until,<br />
at close to 130 feet, <strong>the</strong>y were wide platters, expanding<br />
to collect as much light as possible, like solar panels, in<br />
<strong>the</strong> darkening depths.<br />
To <strong>the</strong> east, <strong>the</strong> ocean went on for thousands <strong>of</strong><br />
miles—next stop, North Africa. Just <strong>the</strong> open sea and <strong>the</strong><br />
life for which it was home. We hovered weightless over a<br />
large knob <strong>of</strong> plate coral. Below us were thousands <strong>of</strong> feet<br />
<strong>of</strong> water. The reef wall receded with undulating arcs that<br />
reminded me <strong>of</strong> pen-and-ink Chinese landscapes in which<br />
mountains fade in successive layers into almost infinite<br />
distances. With each curve, <strong>the</strong> coral wall became more<br />
opaque, but seemed to go on forever.<br />
A small dot appeared in <strong>the</strong> blue depths to <strong>the</strong> east.<br />
It got larger. It had fins, thick ones. Now I saw a roundish<br />
head and wide paddle-shaped front fins propelling<br />
an oval shell with <strong>the</strong> grace <strong>of</strong> a long-distance swimmer.<br />
It was nearly two yards long, with a short, stubby tail—a<br />
female green sea turtle. Migrating thousands <strong>of</strong> miles,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y always return to <strong>the</strong> beach where <strong>the</strong>y were born to<br />
lay <strong>the</strong>ir eggs.<br />
We followed her up to shallower waters and lingered<br />
at about sixty feet as she slowly ascended to <strong>the</strong> surface<br />
to take a breath, her body a silhouette in <strong>the</strong> bright blue<br />
waters.<br />
Each coral head was covered with clusters <strong>of</strong> fish<br />
nibbling and chasing and darting in and out <strong>of</strong> intricate<br />
tunnels and archways. A mosaic <strong>of</strong> shapes flashed in <strong>the</strong><br />
distance. It was a school <strong>of</strong> horse-eye jacks. As we got<br />
closer, <strong>the</strong>y did look horse-eyed, <strong>the</strong>ir eyes bulging out <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir silvery bodies. Every few minutes <strong>the</strong> school would<br />
quiver and reorchestrate itself into a new shimmering<br />
shape.<br />
The beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> undersea world was not just <strong>the</strong><br />
beauty <strong>of</strong> seeing, it was also being seen. Hovering in<br />
38 www.timespub.tc
<strong>the</strong> midst <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> jacks, with <strong>the</strong>ir alert but calm gazes, I<br />
sensed <strong>the</strong>m allowing me to just be in <strong>the</strong>ir midst.<br />
There were damselfish and grunts and snapper.<br />
Gobies. Octopuses. Angelfish. Trunkfish. Pufferfish.<br />
Butterflyfish. Trumpetfish. There was no way to grasp it<br />
all.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> our dive, we ascended slowly to about<br />
fifteen feet and floated peacefully near <strong>the</strong> boat. We<br />
would stay <strong>the</strong>re for a little over three minutes, doing<br />
what’s called a “safety stop.” A grouper with puffy cheeks<br />
and bulging round eyes hovered beneath <strong>the</strong> boat. The<br />
water was dotted with hundreds <strong>of</strong> yellow grunts. My<br />
whole body was smiling. Diving opened up so many unexpected<br />
worlds for me, not just <strong>the</strong> ocean, but also my own<br />
body and how my breath was connected to <strong>the</strong> world as<br />
a whole.<br />
Six months later, Liz returns to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. On this visit, she hopes to spend some time<br />
writing and painting, in <strong>the</strong> hopes <strong>of</strong> using <strong>the</strong> “tools<br />
<strong>of</strong> my trade” in service <strong>of</strong> ocean conservation. It was<br />
42 days into <strong>the</strong> Deepwater Horizon oil rig explosion<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico and <strong>the</strong> resulting oil spill. Liz,<br />
like most people, was reeling with <strong>the</strong> staggering<br />
implications <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spill to both <strong>the</strong> local environment<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gulf Coast and <strong>the</strong> world’s oceans as a whole.<br />
The following are a series <strong>of</strong> excerpts from Chapter 2,<br />
“A Body Within a Body.”<br />
As <strong>the</strong> plane flew south, my eyes went back and forth<br />
between a newspaper and <strong>the</strong> blue-green swirls <strong>of</strong> water<br />
and lace-like strips <strong>of</strong> land that formed <strong>the</strong> Bahamian<br />
archipelago. The newspaper had photos from <strong>the</strong> oil<br />
spill that were so disheartening that I had almost put <strong>the</strong><br />
newspaper in a trash can in Miami.<br />
I turned <strong>the</strong> pages slowly and allowed <strong>the</strong> images to<br />
reach out to me: a sea bird mired in oil, its beak and eyes<br />
barely visible; a dead sea turtle suffocated in a wetland<br />
blackened by oil; <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> a Louisiana coastal zone<br />
director, holding up a handful <strong>of</strong> oil that dripped in long<br />
elastic strands. The oil was as thick as rubber cement.<br />
A flight attendant swished by, grabbing <strong>the</strong> last<br />
cups before landing. The plane made a gentle arc over<br />
<strong>the</strong> islands, which sparkled like silvery-green sardines in<br />
<strong>the</strong> turquoise sea. Just before <strong>the</strong> plane touched down<br />
in Providenciales, a flock <strong>of</strong> birds took flight over Chalk<br />
Sound. The water glistened through <strong>the</strong> flutter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
wings. I sighed. I was so happy to be back. It felt like I was<br />
breaking a fast.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 39
Liz travels to <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies field station<br />
in South Caicos, where she is met by Lizzie, an intern<br />
<strong>the</strong>re, and Eva, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essors.<br />
The next day we motored out to Long Cay. The outboard<br />
carved a path through radiant turquoise flats that<br />
stretched as far as we could see. Long Cay was a sliver <strong>of</strong><br />
an island covered with mangroves. The staff wanted to do<br />
some surveys before bringing <strong>the</strong>ir students <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
As we geared up, I reached for my hood.<br />
“What are you wearing that for?” Lizzie teased me.<br />
“It keeps <strong>the</strong> hair out <strong>of</strong> my face.”<br />
Lizzie looked at Eva with a wink. Eva smiled. “Liz,<br />
this isn’t Club Med.” Lizzie showed me how she wrapped<br />
a bandana around her head to keep her hair back. “Don’t<br />
worry, you’ll get <strong>the</strong>re. You’ll be a fish dweeb by <strong>the</strong> time<br />
you leave.”<br />
We hopped into <strong>the</strong> water. “The mangroves,” Eva<br />
explained, adjusting her snorkel, “are nurseries for juvenile<br />
fish. You might see some when you are snorkeling.”<br />
I’d seen mangroves many times before and thought nothing<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m; <strong>the</strong>y seemed like scruffy bushes. But now I<br />
was primed to pay attention.<br />
The roots <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mangroves arced above <strong>the</strong> water<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n descended vertically. The reflections <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
leaves flickered on <strong>the</strong> surface, casting a deep-green hue.<br />
I peered underwater into <strong>the</strong> labyrinthine root system:<br />
hundreds <strong>of</strong> baby fish hovered skittishly.<br />
It was like a “fish kindergarten” or an incubator—<strong>the</strong><br />
roots formed mazelike bassinets or cradles that protected<br />
<strong>the</strong> young fish from larger predators. Those miles <strong>of</strong><br />
milky blue-green flats that <strong>the</strong> two-prop plane had flown<br />
over were dense with mangroves and seagrass, nurseries<br />
for millions <strong>of</strong> juvenile fish.<br />
I stood up and pulled my mask <strong>of</strong>f.<br />
“Nice, huh?” said Lizzie. “The juveniles, <strong>the</strong>y feed on<br />
plankton until <strong>the</strong>y grow large enough to go out on <strong>the</strong><br />
reef.”<br />
“And plankton are …?” I didn’t really know what<br />
plankton was.<br />
“Organisms that drift in <strong>the</strong> current. Some are microscopic,<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs are big, like jellyfish.”<br />
“What kind <strong>of</strong> fish?”<br />
Lizzie smiled. The partial list: angelfish, grouper,<br />
grunts, snapper.<br />
“Liz!” Eva called out. She was carefully holding a sea<br />
urchin in her hands. Its spines were sharp. “Just touch it<br />
very gently.”<br />
I felt one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> smooth spines quiver. Urchins have<br />
light-sensitive molecules in <strong>the</strong>ir spines, similar to <strong>the</strong><br />
photoreceptors in our eyes. Researchers speculate that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y may “see”—as in “detect shapes <strong>of</strong> light”—with <strong>the</strong><br />
whole surface <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir body.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> way back from Long Cay, we snorkeled at an<br />
island called HDL just across from <strong>the</strong> field station. It was<br />
a striking outcropping <strong>of</strong> stone. It seemed a contradiction<br />
that such a beautiful island would be named HDL. But scientists<br />
do have very dry wits. Maybe HDL was named <strong>the</strong><br />
way a ravishingly beautiful woman named Joanna might<br />
be nicknamed Joe.<br />
HDL teemed with juvenile fish too. May and June were<br />
“juvenile season”—swarms <strong>of</strong> tiny fish filled <strong>the</strong> water.<br />
Sometimes adult fish would circle and nip each o<strong>the</strong>r and<br />
<strong>the</strong>n leave behind a plume <strong>of</strong> eggs and sperm. After <strong>the</strong><br />
eggs hatch, <strong>the</strong> new larvae <strong>the</strong>n drift in <strong>the</strong> currents and<br />
find safe havens in <strong>the</strong> mangroves and <strong>the</strong> seagrass.<br />
That night, a storm hit South Caicos. It affected Liz<br />
deeply.<br />
A blast <strong>of</strong> wind roared in <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> open water, and <strong>the</strong><br />
rain pelted down.<br />
God, I feel like I’m on ano<strong>the</strong>r planet.<br />
The field station’s generator was turned <strong>of</strong>f at night,<br />
so <strong>the</strong>re were no lights. It was pitch black. At <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> island we were in <strong>the</strong> thick <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> roaring wind and<br />
rain and tides.<br />
But maybe it’s this—that I’m finally feeling this<br />
planet.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> months before, I’d pored over books about <strong>the</strong><br />
ocean. Over 70 percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> planet’s surface is covered<br />
by water; 96 percent <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> water on earth is in <strong>the</strong><br />
oceans. The earth is essentially an aquarium-terrarium.<br />
And <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water is in decline. The cultural<br />
revelation was slow and painful. It is easy to understand a<br />
pond or a river being poisoned—like <strong>the</strong> pollutants in <strong>the</strong><br />
Hudson <strong>of</strong> my childhood. But for many, <strong>the</strong> ocean seems<br />
too big to be polluted in <strong>the</strong> same way. But it’s not, and<br />
just like goldfish, sea creatures need healthy water to<br />
survive. And <strong>the</strong>re is no o<strong>the</strong>r planet we can race to with<br />
a siphon to perform an emergency water change.<br />
The wind whipped up stronger, thrashing through<br />
coconut trees. I remembered a NASA visualization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
currents in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic, swirls <strong>of</strong> currents and micro-currents,<br />
seas and subseas, all intermixing—each body<br />
<strong>of</strong> water flowing into its neighbors. And in those seas?<br />
Countless whales and turtles and sharks and tuna, riding<br />
<strong>the</strong> currents—<strong>the</strong>ir “second body”—from <strong>the</strong> Azores<br />
40 www.timespub.tc
INNOVATION | CONSERVATION | ADVENTURE<br />
and North Africa to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and northward to<br />
Newfoundland.<br />
My heart beat and my blood pulsed through my<br />
arms and hands. A fact was surfacing as a sensation: I<br />
too was a body within a body. And a body <strong>of</strong> water at<br />
that. Our blood is 92 percent water, our brain and muscles,<br />
75 percent. And all that water moves and moves<br />
and moves—circulation. That night it was wildly tangible,<br />
as real as <strong>the</strong> zipper on my mozi net, as <strong>the</strong> rain pelting<br />
down, as <strong>the</strong> salty wind blowing through like some<br />
long-forgotten memory <strong>of</strong> our origins.<br />
It was a year later, and ano<strong>the</strong>r trip to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, that<br />
spurred Liz to her own “call to action,” in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong><br />
writing Ocean Country, <strong>the</strong>n traveling to promote <strong>the</strong><br />
book and her message <strong>of</strong> “hope in action.” In <strong>the</strong>se<br />
excerpts from Chapter 4, “The Truths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,”<br />
Liz goes diving on a Grace Bay site called Boneyard<br />
and experiences an episode <strong>of</strong> coral bleaching that<br />
took place during June 2012, a month which had <strong>the</strong><br />
all-time warmest surface temperatures (<strong>of</strong> both land<br />
and sea) for June in <strong>the</strong> Nor<strong>the</strong>rn hemisphere.<br />
PRESENTS<br />
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SNORKELING | SCUBA DIVING | PRIVATE CHARTERS | BIKING<br />
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YEARS<br />
©BLUELINES/p.shearer ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />
I sat on <strong>the</strong> upper deck and remembered this spot<br />
from <strong>the</strong> week before. It was a series <strong>of</strong> deep sand channels,<br />
densely populated with coral. The finger coral were<br />
shaped like protruding stubby thumbs, and <strong>the</strong> large<br />
staghorn coral like <strong>the</strong> antlers <strong>of</strong> a deer. Hence its name,<br />
Boneyard.<br />
Each cluster <strong>of</strong> coral had between twenty and a hundred<br />
finger coral and staghorn coral colonies, densely<br />
packed toge<strong>the</strong>r. It was sometimes hard to even see <strong>the</strong><br />
coral, because <strong>the</strong> schools <strong>of</strong> yellow grunts were so thick.<br />
There were hundreds <strong>of</strong> parrotfish in all kinds <strong>of</strong> colors—<br />
maroon and turquoise with magenta and yellow and deep<br />
blue markings—as well as damselfish and hamlets and<br />
grouper and neon-yellow trumpetfish. Turtles. Spotted<br />
rays. Sharks. As we motored out, I remember thinking<br />
that <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay and <strong>the</strong> Point were <strong>the</strong> most<br />
deeply alive place I had ever experienced.<br />
The boat slowed. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> divemasters used a long<br />
pole to moor on to a buoy. “Okay kiddo, get in <strong>the</strong> water,”<br />
<strong>the</strong> divemaster said as he spot-checked my gear. I put <strong>the</strong><br />
heel <strong>of</strong> my hand to my mask to keep it in place and took<br />
one long step <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat and<br />
into that world I so deeply cherished.<br />
I exhaled and sank s<strong>of</strong>tly into <strong>the</strong> water. I closed my<br />
eyes for a few seconds to just feel <strong>the</strong> water river along<br />
my body.<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 41
Jeez, it’s warm.<br />
I looked at my dive computer: 82 degrees Fahrenheit.<br />
I turned horizontal as I sank and looked down at <strong>the</strong> site,<br />
about forty feet below.<br />
Where am I?<br />
It was almost unrecognizable. The sand channels<br />
were <strong>the</strong>re, but hardly a sign <strong>of</strong> life. Everywhere <strong>the</strong> coral<br />
was white and brown, with green-brown algae growing<br />
over it. There were a few small clusters <strong>of</strong> fish and an<br />
occasional lone fish, looking out <strong>of</strong> place. The coral had<br />
bleached.<br />
I paused at a bed <strong>of</strong> staghorn coral. The week before,<br />
it had been filled with so many juvenile parrotfish and<br />
blue chromis that <strong>the</strong> water appeared to be filled with<br />
<strong>the</strong> “snow” I had described to Lizzie. Tiny brown-andwhite<br />
damselfish and bright-yellow conies had cautiously<br />
peered out from <strong>the</strong> shelter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> staghorn coral’s antler-like<br />
structure. Small multicolored fish had darted<br />
mischievously, sometimes chasing each o<strong>the</strong>r, or had<br />
nibbled on a piece <strong>of</strong> coral, nestled in <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> its<br />
tight matrix.<br />
Now it was barren and whitish-gray, save for one oval<br />
blue tang that nibbled on <strong>the</strong> algae overgrowth. The o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
divers and I searched fruitlessly for a spot that might not<br />
be so damaged.<br />
As I moved my fins slowly through <strong>the</strong> water, it felt<br />
as if I swam through <strong>the</strong> ashen remnants <strong>of</strong> a bombedout<br />
ca<strong>the</strong>dral. Each spot I remembered being deeply alive<br />
and illuminated with life. The mosaic <strong>of</strong> color was gone,<br />
only a white-brown monotone structure remaining, covered<br />
with algae. What was once brilliant was now muted<br />
and wi<strong>the</strong>red; what had shimmered was now grayed out;<br />
iridescent, now bleak and barren.<br />
How could this happen in less than a week’s time?<br />
The devastation was unmistakable. We swam through<br />
a landscape <strong>of</strong> millions upon millions <strong>of</strong> near-microscopic<br />
animals, ailing and dead, unable to support <strong>the</strong> multitude<br />
<strong>of</strong> life forms <strong>the</strong>y once did. I paused at a yard-wide knob<br />
<strong>of</strong> brain coral. The week before, small black-and-white<br />
gobies had sped across its Aztec-like patterns. Next to it<br />
had been some bright magenta sea fans. A large school<br />
<strong>of</strong> yellow-and-silvery-white schoolmaster fish had hovered<br />
<strong>the</strong>re.<br />
The schoolmasters were gone. The sea fans were tattered,<br />
with a blackish overgrowth. Almost all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> brain<br />
coral was covered with algae. A small portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral’s<br />
zigzag structure was visible, but it was a dark brown<br />
and white.<br />
A French physician watched as I took a photograph <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> brain coral. He looked at me with moribund eyes and<br />
<strong>the</strong>n slowly ran his index finger across his throat from ear<br />
to ear, mimicking <strong>the</strong> slice <strong>of</strong> a guillotine. I opened <strong>the</strong><br />
palms <strong>of</strong> my hands as if to say, “I’m not sure.”<br />
Before getting back on <strong>the</strong> boat, I keep looking down<br />
to <strong>the</strong> reef. I still couldn’t quite believe it. It was incomprehensible.<br />
The next day, John Walch, from <strong>the</strong> Reef Ball<br />
Foundation, and local marine ecologist Marsha Pardee<br />
explain to Liz <strong>the</strong> bleaching phemonmenon.<br />
Bleaching happens when <strong>the</strong> coral, reacting to environmental<br />
stresses, expels beneficial algae, with which it<br />
has a symbiotic relationship. “The coral basically gets sick<br />
and throws up <strong>the</strong> algae,” John said, “just like when a person<br />
is ill and expels <strong>the</strong> contents <strong>of</strong> his or her stomach.”<br />
This type <strong>of</strong> algae is different from <strong>the</strong> type that<br />
feeds on nutrient run<strong>of</strong>f and damages coral. The coral<br />
gets its nourishment from this algae’s ability to make<br />
energy from light, photosyn<strong>the</strong>sis. And it gets its green<br />
and rose and yellow hues from <strong>the</strong> algae’s color. When it<br />
expels <strong>the</strong> algae, it loses its color and turns white. It can<br />
survive for a while without <strong>the</strong> algae, but not too long,<br />
and not if coral disease and algae overgrowth become<br />
predominant.<br />
When coral bleaches, <strong>the</strong> fish leave, looking for<br />
healthier terrain. How far <strong>the</strong>y go or where, scientists<br />
don’t really know. John explained that if <strong>the</strong> temperature<br />
change had happened more slowly, in weeks ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />
than two or three days, <strong>the</strong> coral might have tolerated it.<br />
“Corals and marine organisms have evolved in <strong>the</strong> most<br />
stable environment in <strong>the</strong> world. They have no built-in<br />
mechanisms for rapid change. They can take change,<br />
but if we go too fast, that’s where <strong>the</strong> problem is.” The<br />
four-degree spike in temperature in less than a week is<br />
what <strong>the</strong> coral couldn’t tolerate.<br />
Marsha cleared her throat. “Take a cockroach in my<br />
kitchen. It can go through fifteen different insecticides in<br />
a year and get used to <strong>the</strong>m all. Coral can’t; <strong>the</strong>y don’t<br />
have <strong>the</strong> ability to make that rapid a change.”<br />
“There’s no silver bullet,” John said. “Everyone wants<br />
a silver bullet.” Ocean ecosystems are so interconnected;<br />
you can’t just cordon <strong>of</strong>f a portion and preserve it like a<br />
pickle in a jar. Saving coral reefs isn’t just about saving<br />
coral reefs. Their decline is about <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> our water<br />
and <strong>the</strong> air we brea<strong>the</strong>. The damage I saw was a sign <strong>of</strong><br />
massive destruction around <strong>the</strong> globe that was devastating<br />
fisheries, creating extreme droughts and storms, and<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
CHARLIE COSTELLO<br />
Liz Cunningham and her husband Charlie spent a week on a boat on <strong>the</strong> Silver Banks, just south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, where Charlie captured<br />
this awesome photo <strong>of</strong> a humpback whale breeching.<br />
polluting our waterways. The silver bullet would have to<br />
be a multitude <strong>of</strong> bullets: stopping overfishing, instituting<br />
proper sewage treatment, and limiting nutrient run<strong>of</strong>f<br />
and carbon dioxide emissions.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, scientists had documented an 80<br />
percent loss <strong>of</strong> hard coral over <strong>the</strong> last three decades.<br />
The problems are so massive and so in need <strong>of</strong> international<br />
coordination that paralysis is <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong> reaction.<br />
What’s needed? A vast collectivity <strong>of</strong> changes, equivalent<br />
to <strong>the</strong> damage that we’ve been inflicting. The possibility<br />
<strong>of</strong> change is in proportion to how many <strong>of</strong> us are willing<br />
to act. Think <strong>of</strong> slavery several hundred years ago. How<br />
ubiquitous was that? End slavery? A four-thousand-yearold<br />
tradition that was <strong>the</strong> very fiber <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> economy? An<br />
elite class’s grip on power?<br />
Change came about because many people protested<br />
and voted and signed petitions and lobbied decision makers.<br />
Not to mention <strong>the</strong> courageous and steadfast souls<br />
who refused to be muzzled, risked death and imprisonment,<br />
and became <strong>the</strong> voice <strong>of</strong> generations. “Change,”<br />
<strong>the</strong> social-justice activist Tom Hayden wrote, “begins in<br />
<strong>the</strong> individual lives <strong>of</strong> countless people when <strong>the</strong>y no longer<br />
accept existing conditions as inevitable.”<br />
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SOUTH DOCK<br />
ROAD, PROVO<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important tasks for ocean conservation<br />
would be to convince decision makers to do<br />
something about climate change, overfishing, and water<br />
quality. Of course, that pressure is <strong>of</strong>ten rebuffed with,<br />
“Oh now, that’s going to be really complicated! And <strong>the</strong><br />
economic fallout would be devastating.” Just like a slave<br />
owner thinking how complicated it would be to run a<br />
plantation without slave labor. Okay, it’s complicated.<br />
But more complicated than arctic oil drilling or fracking<br />
or fishing boats that drag 55-mile-long drift nets at sea?<br />
The rest <strong>of</strong> Ocean Country details Liz’s research on<br />
<strong>the</strong> California coast, Sulawesi and West Papua, France<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Mediterranean Sea. She documents <strong>the</strong> work<br />
<strong>of</strong> many people who are rescuing <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> seas<br />
and affecting real change — one small step at a time.<br />
Ocean Country closes with a trip to <strong>the</strong> Silver Banks<br />
just south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos that Liz shared with<br />
her husband Charlie. Here, thousands <strong>of</strong> humpback<br />
whales breed and give birth every winter before<br />
migrating north to feed in <strong>the</strong> summer.<br />
Toward <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day, we cautiously approached<br />
a mo<strong>the</strong>r and calf. The driver deftly maneuvered <strong>the</strong> boat<br />
as we timed <strong>the</strong>ir breaths. Then <strong>the</strong>y surfaced toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
once more, exhaled with muffled bursts, and descended<br />
like a submarine and its companion submersible.<br />
“Okay,” said Gene. “Let’s give this a try.”<br />
We slipped into <strong>the</strong> water. The mo<strong>the</strong>r was resting<br />
motionless at about sixty feet, and <strong>the</strong> calf had nuzzled<br />
itself right beneath her chin with <strong>the</strong> sleepy-eyed, s<strong>of</strong>tmou<strong>the</strong>d<br />
expression <strong>of</strong> a baby in a cradle. The water was<br />
suffused with peacefulness and an unthinkable energy I<br />
was at a loss to name.<br />
Every few minutes, <strong>the</strong> calf stirred and rose, as if<br />
swimming in its sleep, outstretching its newborn fins in<br />
slow motion to propel itself to <strong>the</strong> surface and take a<br />
breath. Then it sank, tiptoeing back to bed in a trance-like<br />
slumber, and tucked itself under its mo<strong>the</strong>r’s chin.<br />
We floated like a loose-knit blob <strong>of</strong> jellyfish, gawking<br />
silently. There was just an hour or so <strong>of</strong> daylight left; <strong>the</strong><br />
light cast angular, silvery threads through <strong>the</strong> darkening,<br />
violet-blue water. Once again <strong>the</strong> calf raised its head and<br />
slipped out from under its mo<strong>the</strong>r’s chin. But this time it<br />
seemed to wake out <strong>of</strong> its slumber.<br />
As it rose, it turned vertically in <strong>the</strong> water, revealing<br />
<strong>the</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t-looking pleats beneath its throat and belly.<br />
“When a whale turns its belly toward you,” Gene had told<br />
44 www.timespub.tc
us, “it’s actually positioning itself so it can see you with<br />
both eyes.” The calf spread its fins, took a breath <strong>of</strong> air,<br />
and began to swim horizontally, bobbing just below <strong>the</strong><br />
surface. The mo<strong>the</strong>r started to rise, steady as a slow-moving<br />
barge.<br />
They both inched toward me, side by side, and eyed<br />
us curiously. Soon <strong>the</strong>ir heads were just a few feet away.<br />
The calf wobbled in <strong>the</strong> sea surge, its fins spread like<br />
<strong>the</strong> wings <strong>of</strong> a fledging sparrow. Right behind it was <strong>the</strong><br />
mo<strong>the</strong>r’s long head. Her eye, big as an apple, was filled<br />
with steady confidence and warmth.<br />
“Bury me here,” I mused. “When I die, bring my ashes<br />
to a moment like this and scatter <strong>the</strong>m.”<br />
My god! I’ve never thought that before! What’s got<br />
me by <strong>the</strong> throat?<br />
It was so clear it seemed silly that I hadn’t seen it<br />
before. That unthinkable energy that I was at a loss to<br />
name? It was power. Unthinkably massive power married<br />
to … kindness. Forty tons <strong>of</strong> constant, attentive, steadfast<br />
care.<br />
“Mummy” could break our necks with a casual flick <strong>of</strong><br />
one <strong>of</strong> her fins. Our boat, half her size, wouldn’t survive<br />
a breach on top <strong>of</strong> it.<br />
But what was she doing? Gently approaching, careful<br />
that her fins didn’t hit anyone, and slowly, as if trying<br />
not to startle us. Soon she would migrate north, navigate<br />
threats <strong>of</strong> ship strikes and fishing-gear entanglement<br />
and orcas attacking her calf. Despite all <strong>the</strong> changes in<br />
<strong>the</strong> seas that we have wrought, she would guide her calf<br />
north. She would forge on ahead.<br />
The calf turned slowly, as if on a spindle, and eyed<br />
us playfully. The pleats on its belly were unscarred, like<br />
<strong>the</strong> porcelain skin <strong>of</strong> a newborn baby. The mo<strong>the</strong>r calmly<br />
looked on. Our search was over. They were finding us<br />
now. a<br />
Liz Cunningham is currently touring to promote <strong>the</strong> book<br />
and raise awareness on climate change and water quality.<br />
Twenty-one percent <strong>of</strong> royalties will be given to <strong>the</strong><br />
New England Aquarium’s Marine Conservation Action<br />
Fund (MCAF), which aims to protect and promote ocean<br />
biodiversity through funding <strong>of</strong> small-scale, time-sensitive,<br />
community-based programs.<br />
The book is available on-island at <strong>the</strong> Unicorn<br />
Bookstore, through Amazon.com, and more than likely,<br />
at your favorite bookstore or library. For more information<br />
or to order <strong>the</strong> book, visit http://lizcunningham.net/<br />
ocean_country_<strong>the</strong>_book/.<br />
Book review<br />
Okay, I admit it. It’s really a treat to be able to read<br />
a book about a place you have lived and to be able to<br />
count among your friends most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people described<br />
within <strong>the</strong> pages. I am also fortunate to know and have<br />
dived with <strong>the</strong> author after we met to discuss ways in<br />
which she could help support <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef<br />
Fund.<br />
Not many people would change <strong>the</strong>ir way <strong>of</strong> thinking,<br />
doing, and being to try and save <strong>the</strong> very thing that<br />
nearly killed <strong>the</strong>m. Especially when that something is as<br />
all-encompassing as our oceans. This is not a simple<br />
“save <strong>the</strong> dog that bit me” exercise. Ocean Country is<br />
Liz Cunningham’s very personal journey which begins<br />
with a near fatal kayaking accident, her revisiting <strong>the</strong><br />
scene, and her overcoming her fear <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean.<br />
Instead, she dives headfirst — quite literally — into just<br />
how poorly humanity is treating our planet and how<br />
this behavior is killing <strong>the</strong> very thing that is responsible<br />
for life on Earth. It is a travelogue <strong>of</strong> sorts detailing her<br />
journey across <strong>the</strong> globe to observe and record firsthand<br />
what mankind has done to its home.<br />
Liz has a remarkable clarity <strong>of</strong> style which makes<br />
<strong>the</strong> book very easy reading, and a delightful read at<br />
that —considering <strong>the</strong> topic. It is an intensely personal<br />
story and she brings you into her head from <strong>the</strong> very<br />
first page. She compares her reluctance, acceptance,<br />
and ultimate enthusiasm to write Ocean Country with<br />
her first experience driving a motor bike. What this has<br />
to do with ocean conservation is not too clear until Liz<br />
connects <strong>the</strong> dots for you and <strong>the</strong> analogy is brilliant.<br />
Liz has clearly researched her facts and figures, and<br />
presents <strong>the</strong>m, not in a dull regurgitation <strong>of</strong> numbers<br />
way, but to drive <strong>the</strong> point home with such clarity as<br />
to make <strong>the</strong> reader stop and take note. Thirty-six percent<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Federal fisheries in <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico were<br />
closed after <strong>the</strong> Deepwater Horizon oil spill. How awful.<br />
That’s over eighty-six thousand square miles <strong>of</strong> ocean.<br />
Yeah, that’s a lot <strong>of</strong> ocean. Then she hits it home: That’s<br />
an area <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> Minnesota. Whoa! That’s huge!<br />
What should have been a depressing book about <strong>the</strong><br />
horrible way humans have mistreated our planet and<br />
seem hell-bent to destroy our oceans is anything but.<br />
Liz’s unbridled passion is clearly obvious and leaves<br />
<strong>the</strong> reader thinking that <strong>the</strong>re IS light at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
tunnel. And it doesn’t have to be a train. It’s hope.<br />
David Stone, co-founder, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 45
feature<br />
Opposite page: “King” is a severely injured dog that was rescued by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA and recovered under <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional care <strong>of</strong> Pampered Paws.<br />
King was literally skin and bone, with a huge swelling on his front right leg, when <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA rescued him from <strong>the</strong> streets <strong>of</strong> downtown<br />
Provo. Look at this beautiful dog today.<br />
Above: Donna Doran, owner <strong>of</strong> Pampered Paws, and TCSPCA Director Susan Blehr (with a recently rescued potcake) stand next to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />
“animal bus,” generously donated by Provo resident Larry Costa, parked outside <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice and clinic at Suzie Turn Plaza in Providenciales.<br />
A Voice for Those Who<br />
Cannot Speak<br />
TCSPCA has helped animals and <strong>the</strong>ir owners for nearly twenty years.<br />
The Turks & Caicos Society for <strong>the</strong> Prevention <strong>of</strong> Cruelty to Animals (TCSPCA) is <strong>the</strong> oldest established<br />
animal welfare organization in <strong>the</strong> country. There is no veterinary service on any <strong>of</strong> our islands except<br />
Providenciales, which is why <strong>the</strong> not-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it group is literally a necessity-<strong>of</strong>-life for <strong>the</strong> animals with<br />
whom we co-exist in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />
TCSPCA mobile clinics, held one to three times a year on each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sister islands, are <strong>the</strong> only time<br />
most animals receive any medical care. The <strong>of</strong>fice and clinic on Providenciales have been providing services<br />
to all <strong>the</strong> animals <strong>of</strong> Providenciales since August 2008. But long before that, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was helping<br />
animals and <strong>the</strong>ir owners.<br />
By Kathi Barrington ~ Photos Courtesy TCSPCA<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 47
And it’s not just dogs and cats that benefit. The original<br />
SPCA was founded in Grand Turk by Tom Saunders<br />
on January 5, 1998, to address <strong>the</strong> welfare <strong>of</strong> roaming<br />
cattle, donkeys, and horses. These animals are still monitored<br />
and <strong>of</strong>ten helped by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA today. In 2014<br />
<strong>the</strong> two traditional animal-accessible wells on Grand Turk<br />
were cleaned out and <strong>the</strong> troughs rebuilt, once again providing<br />
water to roaming animals, thanks to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA,<br />
funds from <strong>the</strong> Donkey Sanctuary, UK and help from <strong>the</strong><br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture. The TCSPCA on Provo has<br />
rescued and treated donkeys, goats, horses, pelicans, flamingoes,<br />
snakes, and geckoes as well as countless dogs<br />
and cats, and once, a manatee.<br />
Staffed by a handful <strong>of</strong> volunteers and funded solely<br />
through private donations and fund-raising, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />
has made a significant difference to all animals in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
for over 15 years. TCSPCA volunteers have earned <strong>the</strong><br />
trust <strong>of</strong> residents, <strong>the</strong> admiration and support <strong>of</strong> tourists<br />
and <strong>of</strong>f-island animal welfare organizations, and <strong>the</strong><br />
respect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government.<br />
TCSPCA’s first director and co-founder Beth Vankeep<br />
remembers when <strong>the</strong> Provo group was solidified as a<br />
working team. She called it <strong>the</strong> perfect storm. A pack <strong>of</strong><br />
wild dogs on <strong>the</strong> airport runway had prevented <strong>the</strong> newto-Providenciales<br />
American Airlines flight from landing.<br />
Not good. Add to that <strong>the</strong> “60 Minutes” reporter who was<br />
chased down “magical” Grace Bay Beach and bitten by a<br />
feral dog, and District Commissioner for Providencales<br />
Kingsley Been receiving daily nuisance dog reports from<br />
residents and hoteliers. Something had to happen.<br />
In September 2000, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was invited to <strong>the</strong><br />
first meeting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI Government’s newly formed<br />
Feral Dog Committee. Several months later, <strong>the</strong> government<br />
contracted <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA to carry out its Feral Dog<br />
Programme, with a humane trapping program designed<br />
by TCSPCA and endorsed by <strong>the</strong> Committee. With government<br />
funding behind <strong>the</strong>m and Beth Veenkamp as <strong>the</strong><br />
newly hired TCSPCA project manager, <strong>the</strong> small group got<br />
<strong>the</strong> ball rolling.<br />
The TCSPCA, with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Pegasus, a not for pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
animal welfare foundation, brought in pr<strong>of</strong>essional help.<br />
Owner <strong>of</strong> Wildlife Veterinary Resources (WVR) in Montana<br />
Dr. Mark Johnson and his team flew to Providenciales<br />
in August 2001 to help convince government that <strong>the</strong><br />
exploding wild dog problem had to be handled on many<br />
levels. Teach owners to be responsible and caring. Trap<br />
and humanely euthanize un-owned dogs. Spay or neuter<br />
pets. (A female dog comes into heat twice each year and<br />
can have a litter <strong>of</strong> up to 12 puppies. Do <strong>the</strong> math.) Draft,<br />
From top: It is not only cats and dogs that are helped by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA.<br />
Percy <strong>the</strong> Pelican was rescued and rehabilitated, along with countless<br />
donkeys being monitored and helped in <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>Islands</strong> today.<br />
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
48 www.timespub.tc
pass, and enforce animal control legislation. Mark’s WVR<br />
team trained TCSPCA volunteers how, where, and why to<br />
set traps and most importantly, trained local residents<br />
Oliver Ferguson and Alco Williams to carry on <strong>the</strong> program.<br />
For three years <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA administered <strong>the</strong><br />
Programme and succeeded in humanely euthanising over<br />
2,000 un-owned dogs as well as spaying/neutering over<br />
800 dogs and cats.<br />
Weeks prior to setting traps, TCSPCA volunteers went<br />
yard to yard, handing out blue dog collars to people for<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir pets. They explained that any collared animal caught<br />
in a trap would be spayed or neutered and returned to its<br />
yard. Radio and newspaper ads also explained <strong>the</strong> massive<br />
project. Nobody wanted to accidentally kill an owned<br />
dog.<br />
During <strong>the</strong> initial “Kick Start” phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> program<br />
in 2001, Islanders rallied to this effort. Volunteers<br />
appeared as if by magic to help implement <strong>the</strong> trapping.<br />
The Graceway IGA provided meat scraps and bones to<br />
bait <strong>the</strong> traps. When volunteers quickly learned our wild<br />
dogs don’t “do” raw, Animal Control Officer Alco Williams<br />
cooked <strong>the</strong> scraps <strong>of</strong> raw meat bait. In three weeks <strong>the</strong><br />
Johnson team and TCSPCA volunteers trapped nearly<br />
500 dogs; 293 were humanely euthanized and 182 were<br />
spayed or neutered by Wooding Veterinary Services.<br />
Beth ran <strong>the</strong> organization out <strong>of</strong> a rented guest apartment<br />
at Madeline and Terry Erskine’s. She told me <strong>the</strong>y<br />
filled <strong>the</strong> place and <strong>the</strong> backyard with puppies and dogs<br />
during and after <strong>the</strong> trapping program. The Erskine’s two<br />
rescued horses, Hero and Cowboy, watched over this<br />
motley crew. The imported trapping team fell in love with<br />
our potcakes, and several took pups home with <strong>the</strong>m to<br />
<strong>the</strong> USA. Thus began <strong>the</strong> TCPSCA’s <strong>of</strong>f-island adoption<br />
programme. Today it is simple and easy to adopt a potcake<br />
or potcat. More than 200 animals start new lives in<br />
<strong>the</strong> USA or Canada each year.<br />
By this time <strong>the</strong> organization had formed a Board <strong>of</strong><br />
Directors, under <strong>the</strong> presidency <strong>of</strong> Kingsley Been, whose<br />
mandate was to ensure all animals in <strong>the</strong> TCI were cared<br />
for and free from abuse. Two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original Board, Peggy<br />
Perkins and Barbara Young, are still active directors<br />
today.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> height <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> choreographed chaos <strong>of</strong> trapping,<br />
spaying, and neutering, Beth discovered she was<br />
pregnant. In April 2002 she returned to Canada with her<br />
husband. Before she left, she convinced volunteer Susan<br />
Blehr to take over <strong>the</strong> helm as director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA.<br />
The changing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> guard was simple. Beth handed<br />
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E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 49
to Susan <strong>the</strong> cell phone and <strong>the</strong> computer. Susan recalls<br />
that <strong>the</strong> very next day she was fostering a litter <strong>of</strong> eight<br />
puppies on her back deck. She’d never owned a dog in her<br />
life and her cat was not amused by <strong>the</strong> intruders. Today<br />
she and her husband, Bob-<strong>the</strong>-Dog-Whisperer Blehr, have<br />
a pack. Each was once considered unadoptable.<br />
Susan, with Bob at her back, ran <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA from<br />
home until 2003. An experienced manager and networker,<br />
she and volunteers set up foster homes for<br />
puppies and kittens. Louise Henderson was hired as <strong>the</strong><br />
TCSPCA educational <strong>of</strong>ficer to go into all <strong>the</strong> schools to<br />
talk about caring, responsible pet ownership and <strong>the</strong><br />
importance <strong>of</strong> vaccinations and spay/neuter. The TCSPCA<br />
worked with government to draft legislation to protect<br />
animals and people. They continued to encourage people<br />
to have <strong>the</strong>ir pets sterilized and worked tirelessly picking<br />
up animals, delivering <strong>the</strong>m for free surgery, and <strong>the</strong>n<br />
returning <strong>the</strong>m home. The number <strong>of</strong> dog attacks and<br />
calls about nuisance dogs abated dramatically.<br />
In 2003 <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA secured a small <strong>of</strong>fice upstairs in<br />
Suzie Turn Plaza, which made Susan’s home life slightly<br />
less chaotic. Then in 2004, after <strong>the</strong> government decided<br />
to take <strong>the</strong> Feral Dog Programme in-house, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />
went into fundraising mode and <strong>the</strong> Just for Fun Dog<br />
Show (<strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> which was held in 2002 in <strong>the</strong> Graceway<br />
IGA parking lot,) became a vital source <strong>of</strong> revenue to continue<br />
to pay for <strong>the</strong> free spay/neuter programme.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> feral dog population exploded again in<br />
2004, government reached out to contract <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />
again, to bring Mark Johnson’s team back to trap and<br />
euthanize or spay/neuter dogs, as temporary, stop-gap<br />
measures to control animals in areas frequented by tourists.<br />
Without consistent funding, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was finding<br />
it difficult to subsidize <strong>the</strong>ir spay/neuter/vaccination program<br />
for <strong>the</strong> river <strong>of</strong> Islanders who wanted to do <strong>the</strong> right<br />
thing for <strong>the</strong>ir pets. Although <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA received donations<br />
from supporters and funds from resident Hea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Forbes’ Potcake Foundation, <strong>the</strong>y realized that <strong>the</strong>y simply<br />
could not continue paying for veterinary services.<br />
However, ano<strong>the</strong>r perfect storm was brewing. In<br />
2007 an outbreak <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> deadly canine distemper virus<br />
swept <strong>the</strong> island. The TCSPCA reacted swiftly, obtaining<br />
thousands <strong>of</strong> donated vials <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vaccination against <strong>the</strong><br />
terrible disease. Anyone who had ever administered a<br />
subcutaneous injection was enlisted to go door to door<br />
in <strong>the</strong> communities to administer <strong>the</strong> vaccination to pets<br />
in yards and homes. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> volunteers was a retired<br />
veterinarian, Dr. Rich Sefcik.<br />
Several pets did succumb to distemper, but many<br />
more did not. And Dr. Sefcik, who had bought a house<br />
on Provo in 2004 and retired to <strong>the</strong> island with his wife<br />
Jan, <strong>of</strong>fered to perform spays and neuters, part-time, for<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCSPCA as a volunteer vet. However, <strong>the</strong>y would need<br />
a clinic to perform <strong>the</strong> surgeries and care for <strong>the</strong> animals<br />
before and after <strong>the</strong> procedure.<br />
Enter Annie Notley. She and her husband Simon<br />
were visiting Provo and heard <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA. After meetings<br />
and consults with Susan, she donated $35,000 to<br />
<strong>the</strong> organization to secure a small spay/neuter clinic.<br />
Fortunately, <strong>the</strong>re was a vacant room for rent at Suzie<br />
Turn Plaza so Dr. Rich designed and equipped <strong>the</strong> clinic,<br />
and in August 2008 he performed <strong>the</strong> first surgery in <strong>the</strong><br />
new clinic.<br />
This photo <strong>of</strong> Annie Notley and Dr. Rich Sefcik was taken on <strong>the</strong> day<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first surgery in <strong>the</strong> new TCSPCA clinic in August 2008.<br />
Five mornings a week, for almost five years, Dr. Rich<br />
advised and reassured pet owners. He spayed or neutered<br />
almost 3,000 dogs and cats. His quiet confidence<br />
and wicked sense <strong>of</strong> humour made it easy for a diverse<br />
group <strong>of</strong> volunteers to happily work with him. Owners<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir pets responded positively to him. In short, he<br />
was a Godsend.<br />
With Dr. Rich in situ, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was able to realize<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir most important goals — to take veterinary<br />
care to all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In 2010 <strong>the</strong><br />
TCSPCA team packed <strong>the</strong>ir eight-year-old animal bus with<br />
everything <strong>the</strong>y needed to perform surgeries and wellness<br />
checks, and shipped <strong>the</strong> van to Sandy Point, North<br />
Caicos. They <strong>the</strong>n drove to Blue Horizon Resort on Middle<br />
Caicos, where <strong>the</strong>y set up <strong>the</strong> surgery in a warehouse<br />
space <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA has held clinics on all <strong>the</strong> out<br />
50 www.timespub.tc
islands and Grand Turk. The goal is to hold two clinics a<br />
year on each island during <strong>the</strong> breeding seasons.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r milestone was <strong>the</strong> re-launching <strong>of</strong> a Grand<br />
Turk chapter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA in 2011, which <strong>the</strong>n held its<br />
first spay/neuter clinic that August. The Grand Turk volunteers<br />
run a shop in <strong>the</strong> cruise ship center to raise funds<br />
and <strong>the</strong>y sell basic animal care supplies to pet owners.<br />
Years <strong>of</strong> hard work, community outreach, and most<br />
importantly, education by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA paid <strong>of</strong>f in large<br />
numbers <strong>of</strong> pet owners bringing <strong>the</strong>ir animals to <strong>the</strong> Suzy<br />
Turn clinic for vaccinations, heart worm preventatives,<br />
and affordable spay or neuter surgeries. The word was<br />
out — being a responsible pet owner made everyone’s<br />
life easier and better. And <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> axe fell again. Dr. Rich<br />
and Jan decided to return to <strong>the</strong> United States. They sold<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir home and said an emotional good-bye in May 2013.<br />
Besides losing dear friends, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA faced a crisis<br />
—no veterinary care. Would <strong>the</strong> clinic/shop survive? Once<br />
again Blehr rose to <strong>the</strong> challenge. She found veterinary<br />
groups which travel across <strong>the</strong> world to provide veterinary<br />
care to places where no care is available.<br />
During <strong>the</strong> first clinic after Dr. Rich had gone, held<br />
on Provo in October 2013, Dr. Jessica Braun and vet tech<br />
Kristine Bucholz performed 134 spay or neuter surgeries<br />
in five days. Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA has held more than<br />
a dozen clinics, covering all <strong>the</strong> islands. During <strong>the</strong> most<br />
recent clinic in November, Dr. Meghann Vollmer Kruck, <strong>of</strong><br />
Kindest Cut in Minnesota, and two <strong>of</strong> her vet techs performed<br />
107 surgeries in five days. Dr. Kruck will be back<br />
for a month in late spring 20<strong>16</strong>.<br />
For fifteen years, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA has worked with <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI residents through day to day community outreach on<br />
each island, in each village, and reliable, non-judgmental,<br />
affordable services to pet owners in <strong>the</strong>ir yards, homes,<br />
or at <strong>the</strong> Suzie Turn clinic. They are supported by many<br />
island businesses, organizations, and resorts.<br />
Pampered Paws, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s only boarding, grooming,<br />
and training facility has provided runs for TCSPCA<br />
pups since 2002. Each year owner Donna Doran and her<br />
wonderful staff provide “room and board,” medical care,<br />
training, and loads <strong>of</strong> TLC to hundreds <strong>of</strong> pups and older<br />
dogs, many who are in truly terrible physical and emotional<br />
condition when <strong>the</strong>y arrive.<br />
Lew Handfield Shipping and interCaribbean Airways<br />
have been providing discounted or free transportation<br />
to <strong>the</strong> organization from <strong>the</strong> early days. TCI First<br />
Insurance insures <strong>the</strong> animal bus at no charge. Hea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Forbes’ Potcake Foundation raises funds each year for<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCSPCA. Provo residents John Thomas and Jessica<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 51
From top: Dr. Meghann Vollmer Kruck, <strong>of</strong> Kindest Cut in Minnesota,<br />
regularly holds spay/neuter clinic in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
The annual TCSPCA dog show is community-centered and very popular.<br />
The judges (shown here) don’t take <strong>the</strong>ir job TOO seriously.<br />
The author’s dog, MottLee and husband Mike were winners <strong>of</strong> “Looks<br />
Most Like Owner.”<br />
Kyle have recently come on scene, establishing Potcake<br />
Project, a non-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization that provides funds<br />
to rescue, rehab, and re-home older potcakes. They also<br />
pay visiting vet teams’ airfare.<br />
Long Bay homeowner Larry Costa learned that <strong>the</strong><br />
TCSPCA urgently needed to replace <strong>the</strong>ir 13-year-old “animal<br />
bus.” He found, bought, and shipped a new E-250<br />
Extended Cargo Van to Provo in January <strong>2015</strong>. The van<br />
was inaugurated in April when it was shipped to North<br />
Caicos for a mobile clinic <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
TCSPCA fundraisers are community centered and<br />
hugely popular: The calendar, begun in 2005, features<br />
loving portraits <strong>of</strong> rescued animals from across <strong>the</strong>se<br />
islands; <strong>the</strong> annual “Just for Fun” Dog Show, under <strong>the</strong><br />
tent provided by Turtle Cove Marina; <strong>the</strong> now famous<br />
Beach Bonfire BBQ hosted by Kissing Fish Catering at Bay<br />
Bistro’s beachfront restaurant and <strong>the</strong> Christmas Fair with<br />
Santa’s Grotto. All are put on by <strong>the</strong> volunteers and local<br />
businesses. Donations from residents and tourists are<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir o<strong>the</strong>r source <strong>of</strong> funds.<br />
Director Susan Blehr knows that <strong>the</strong> organization has<br />
made a huge difference to <strong>the</strong> lives and well being <strong>of</strong><br />
thousands <strong>of</strong> animals and to pet owners on every island.<br />
The community outreach programmes and <strong>the</strong> affordable<br />
spay/neuter/vaccination clinics on <strong>the</strong> sister islands have<br />
achieved an obvious, quantifiable decrease in unwanted,<br />
MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
52 www.timespub.tc
This is one <strong>of</strong> Pampered Paws’s obedience classes. The last dog on <strong>the</strong> right, with Pampered Paws’s owner Donna Doran, is Legend, an older<br />
potcake rescued from <strong>the</strong> Beaches roundabout. He came to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA in horrific condition, and he’d never been touched by a human hand.<br />
He became a super, people-oriented, lover <strong>of</strong> a dog. It is wonderful what loving care at Pampered Paws can do.<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 53
Kathryn is a founding member <strong>of</strong><br />
Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />
Association formed in 2000. She<br />
was instrumental in writing and<br />
implementing <strong>the</strong> manual for <strong>the</strong><br />
Association as well as Rules and<br />
Regulations for <strong>the</strong> membership.<br />
In 2007 she was voted <strong>the</strong> first<br />
TCREA Ambassador by her peers. In 2009/10 she was part <strong>of</strong> a<br />
Team that wrote <strong>the</strong> first Training Manual for TCREA; all new<br />
members are required to complete <strong>the</strong> course and final exam<br />
before being accepted as full members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association. She<br />
served as President <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association for five years (2008-<br />
2013), as well as serving on many TCREA committees, some <strong>of</strong><br />
which she still serves.<br />
Kathryn started her real estate career in Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> where<br />
she worked for ERA for a number <strong>of</strong> years until her move to<br />
TCI ERA Coralie Properties Ltd in 2000; she was brought to<br />
implement <strong>the</strong> ERA system and manage <strong>the</strong> operation for <strong>the</strong><br />
newly franchised Coralie Properties. Over <strong>the</strong> years Kathryn<br />
has become an active partner shareholder and Director <strong>of</strong> ERA<br />
Coralie Properties Ltd., as well as being a successful sales<br />
associate, consistently being in <strong>the</strong> top ten.<br />
A background in interior design and retail fit well with a real<br />
estate career; working well with people, high standard <strong>of</strong><br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism, integrity and quality service. Kathryn has<br />
many repeat customers as well as a strong referral network.<br />
If you want to learn about real estate in Turks & Caicos give<br />
Kathryn a call, she will be pleased to meet you and help with<br />
your real estate needs, wants, dreams...<br />
Tel: 649 231 2329<br />
Email: krbrown@era.tc<br />
Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com<br />
Kathryn<br />
Brown<br />
ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.<br />
unowned animals. The goal that every animal has a home<br />
is doable on <strong>the</strong> sister islands. Their stray dog populations<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir owned animal figures, compared to Provo,<br />
are small. The target — to get 70% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals spayed<br />
or neutered — is realistic. That’s <strong>the</strong> magic number<br />
required to achieve decreasing populations, ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />
an increasing number <strong>of</strong> animals each year.<br />
However, that is not <strong>the</strong> case on Providenciales. Well<br />
documented research by experts in animal population<br />
control have shown that no amount <strong>of</strong> spay/neuters<br />
will affect <strong>the</strong> large, roaming dog population on Provo.<br />
The cold hard fact is that unless one ownerless dog is<br />
rendered incapable <strong>of</strong> reproducing for each pet that is<br />
spayed or neutered, animal control efforts will fail.<br />
Without an organized, humane, compassionate, trapping/euthanization<br />
programme on this island, for at least<br />
a year, <strong>the</strong> feral dog population will continue to increase.<br />
Sadly, many <strong>of</strong> our native potcakes will die <strong>of</strong> starvation<br />
or dehydration, disease, or car accidents. But many more<br />
will survive, and <strong>the</strong>y will bear more puppies.<br />
For now, Director Blehr focuses on <strong>the</strong> many accomplishments<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA: <strong>the</strong> spaying or neutering <strong>of</strong><br />
more than 5,000 dogs; <strong>the</strong> adoptions, on and <strong>of</strong>f-island,<br />
<strong>of</strong> more than 1,000 potcakes and potcats; <strong>the</strong> rescue and<br />
rehab <strong>of</strong> older animals, <strong>of</strong>ten in appalling, heart breaking<br />
condition, that have evoked <strong>the</strong> sympathy and support<br />
<strong>of</strong> residents and visitors. Unintended animal cruelty by<br />
owners, due to insufficient education about things like<br />
ear and tail cropping, are now rare. The TCSPCA has<br />
clearly seen that <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> animal owners here want<br />
to do <strong>the</strong> right thing for <strong>the</strong>ir pets, and <strong>the</strong>y know <strong>the</strong>y<br />
can come to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA for help, no matter what. That’s<br />
what <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA is all about.<br />
Susan wanted <strong>the</strong> last word in this article: “Without<br />
our volunteers, <strong>the</strong>re would be no TCSPCA. They are<br />
always <strong>the</strong>re, always willing, and always caring. I have<br />
learned from <strong>the</strong>m, as I hope <strong>the</strong>y have from me, and<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r we try our best to live our motto: Be <strong>the</strong> voice<br />
for those who cannot speak.” a<br />
If you support <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA, you are helping all <strong>the</strong> animals<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country, making it a better place for <strong>the</strong> animals,<br />
all residents, and visitors. Please visit www.tcspca.com<br />
or contact us at tcscpa@tciway.tc. You can also follow us<br />
on FaceBook for <strong>the</strong> latest happenings.<br />
54 www.timespub.tc
ADVERTISEMENT<br />
3 Positive Forces Set to Reward<br />
Property Investors Greatly In 20<strong>16</strong><br />
Greg McNally first started working as<br />
a young lawyer in Turks and Caicos (TCI)<br />
more than 23 years ago. As a founding<br />
partner <strong>of</strong> what was once one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
largest law firms on Provo, he quickly<br />
became a fixture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local business<br />
scene, playing a part in numerous high<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>ile developments including The<br />
Sands Resort, Northwest Point Resort<br />
and The Island Club on Grace Bay Road.<br />
And although he’s enjoyed much<br />
success from <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong><br />
TCI over <strong>the</strong> past few decades, he believes<br />
<strong>the</strong> trends are pointing to a new<br />
renaissance in local investment.<br />
“It’s all about <strong>the</strong> trends.,” says Mc-<br />
Nally. “Wealthier Canadian and American<br />
travellers who stopped coming<br />
after <strong>the</strong> financial crash are now returning,<br />
pushing up <strong>the</strong> prices on <strong>the</strong> rental market. That’s causing<br />
certain vacationers to look closely at <strong>the</strong> property market, pushing<br />
up sale prices. And <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>re’s a whole new audience from<br />
Asia and South America entering <strong>the</strong> TCI market for <strong>the</strong> first time.<br />
Investors who get in early should benefit greatly.“<br />
North Americans Are Returning in Big Numbers<br />
Prior to 2008, Turks and Caicos was very popular for North<br />
American travellers, especially from East Coast financial centres<br />
like New York and Toronto. But with <strong>the</strong> recession came a dramatic<br />
pullback that hit TCI hard as <strong>the</strong> jet setters sharply reduced<br />
spending.<br />
According to McNally, that has now changed. “As wealthy Canadians<br />
and Americans return, <strong>the</strong>y are choosing to rent. This<br />
has caused <strong>the</strong> rental market to explode. In <strong>the</strong> past year, my investment<br />
penthouse in Grace Bay has been booked out almost<br />
solid - even during <strong>of</strong>f-season. It’s been quite lucrative.”<br />
The result? It is pushing some wealthy renters into buying.<br />
Growing Property Market to Push Up Prices<br />
Properties like this 4,000 sq. ft. villa are set to appreciate greatly thanks to three powerful trends.<br />
“The guys out <strong>of</strong> Toronto and New York are smart. They see<br />
that spending $20,000 for a two week rental isn’t <strong>the</strong> best use <strong>of</strong><br />
money. So <strong>the</strong>y’re looking closely at <strong>the</strong> property market again.”<br />
In McNally’s mind, this will soon lead to appreciation in certain<br />
types <strong>of</strong> property <strong>the</strong> affluent jet setters want. In fact, his<br />
latest venture, Caya Private Residences, is set to help smart vacationers<br />
capitalize on this trend. “I spotted an opportunity to help<br />
<strong>the</strong>se investors turn <strong>the</strong>ir rental expense into a real asset with<br />
high potential for long-term capital appreciation.”<br />
Whole New Markets Increase Demand<br />
But arguably <strong>the</strong> most important trend in McNally’s eyes is<br />
<strong>the</strong> attraction <strong>of</strong> Asians and South Americans to TCI.<br />
“The people buying and building here are much different<br />
than when I first started years ago. Back <strong>the</strong>n, it was mostly<br />
wealthy finance folks from <strong>the</strong> US and Canada. Now we’ve seen<br />
different groups starting to take a real interest and invest real<br />
money. This is <strong>the</strong> most exciting long term positive force for TCI.”<br />
For example, Marriott has announced a project in <strong>the</strong> famous<br />
beach area <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay. According to McNally, “What most<br />
people don’t know is that <strong>the</strong> project is backed by a group <strong>of</strong><br />
Venezuelans. Their economy, as with many in <strong>the</strong> area that relied<br />
on commodities, is in rough shape. They are looking to diversify<br />
and are bringing serious money to <strong>the</strong> area.”<br />
How to Capitalize on <strong>the</strong>se Trends<br />
If you’re interested in learning how you too could benefit<br />
from <strong>the</strong>se trends, McNally is <strong>of</strong>fering a free investment guide to<br />
qualified investors. You’ll discover how to buy TCI property for as<br />
much as 20% under market rate.<br />
Call 1-888-534-9021<br />
(or internationally: +1-4<strong>16</strong>-900-3522)
feature<br />
Opposite page: The two-mile stretch <strong>of</strong> beach along Pine Cay’s north shore is indeed “one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean’s last great untrammeled beaches.”<br />
Above: This is an aerial view <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay as you approach from <strong>the</strong> east. The air strip neatly bisects <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
Treasuring Pine Cay<br />
The evolution <strong>of</strong> a private island community.<br />
By Sara Kaufman, Manager, Forbes, Forbes & Forbes Realty Ltd.<br />
Photos By Paradise Photography<br />
Just as <strong>the</strong> true Caribbean pine is a tree unique to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, Pine Cay is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />
special treasures. Not only is it a rare stronghold <strong>of</strong> this endangered tree, but Pine Cay has a fascinating<br />
history and a promising future. Since 1960 it has been a focus for development, and fifty years later it<br />
stands apart as a bright and refreshing option for those wishing to indulge in true Caribbean relaxation!<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 57
Pine Cay is a beautiful 800 acre private island<br />
tucked among <strong>the</strong> Caicos Cays, with a 2,800-foot<br />
airstrip, sheltered marina, and boutique hotel, that<br />
is home to an exclusive membership community.<br />
Amazingly, it was settled in <strong>the</strong> 1970s when <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were totally unknown, with no regular<br />
transport <strong>of</strong> any kind in and out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country, or<br />
even between <strong>the</strong> various islands. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original<br />
owners on Pine Cay actually sailed in local sloops from<br />
South Caicos—<strong>the</strong> international airport and TCI port <strong>of</strong><br />
entry at that time—to get to <strong>the</strong>ir property!<br />
Until <strong>the</strong> 1990s, <strong>the</strong> entire country was an obscure<br />
pinpoint on <strong>the</strong> global map, scarcely noticed even<br />
within <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Only about 7,000 local residents<br />
populated <strong>the</strong> seven inhabited islands, with no tourist<br />
industry or o<strong>the</strong>r businesses in place. The 1970s<br />
were <strong>the</strong> heyday <strong>of</strong> aviation pioneers—private pilots<br />
and low-budget airlines exploring remote nooks and<br />
crannies throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean to find unspoiled<br />
paradise. Both pilots and passengers were eager to live<br />
in <strong>the</strong> sun and create a special home for <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
Early pioneers on Pine Cay relished <strong>the</strong> isolation<br />
and tranquility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island, along with <strong>the</strong> incredible<br />
fishing, despite <strong>the</strong> many inconveniences. The challenge<br />
<strong>of</strong> getting to <strong>the</strong> island was part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fun and<br />
adventure. The development <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay underwent<br />
changes in concept, owners, and developers during<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1970s as <strong>the</strong> reality <strong>of</strong> creating a private island<br />
resort became more evident. These early concepts<br />
ranged from a high density resort island <strong>of</strong> over 400<br />
lots, with commercial sections, fly-in capacity, and<br />
a major hotel compound to a very exclusive retreat<br />
island for a small private group <strong>of</strong> families championing<br />
privacy.<br />
The hardy folk who purchased property on Pine<br />
Cay in <strong>the</strong> early days <strong>of</strong> its development included business<br />
tycoons, European royalty, and various eccentrics<br />
who toge<strong>the</strong>r worked hard over many years to combine<br />
<strong>the</strong> land, concepts, and investors into a feasible<br />
plan. The solution adopted was to set up a home owners’<br />
association with a serious set <strong>of</strong> rules to protect<br />
and preserve <strong>the</strong> island. As a result, Pine Cay is <strong>the</strong><br />
longest established private member community in <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean and stands firmly on <strong>the</strong> original goals in<br />
a world <strong>of</strong> change. Some rules survive to this day. For<br />
instance, only indigenous plants are allowed and no<br />
private pools, to conserve <strong>the</strong> precious freshwater lens<br />
underground. Cars are not allowed — only electric golf<br />
carts—to reduce noise and pollution. Yet in acknowledgment<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> modern world, <strong>the</strong> ban on telephones<br />
and TV has been lifted!<br />
Building in Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, especially forty<br />
years ago, was a great challenge as <strong>the</strong> country had<br />
little infrastructure, all materials had to be shipped<br />
to Pine Cay, and workers, supervisors, and technical<br />
advisors had to be brought over as well. Despite this<br />
logistical nightmare, members slowly built <strong>the</strong>ir family<br />
homes and a secure private marina, completed a safe<br />
airstrip, and created a boutique hotel with gourmet<br />
restaurant.<br />
Fishing–bonefishing in this case–is still a popular pastime in <strong>the</strong> shimmering flats <strong>of</strong>f Pine Cay’s sou<strong>the</strong>rn shores.<br />
58 www.timespub.tc
Peaceful freshwater ponds dot <strong>the</strong> Pine Cay landscape; this one is quite close to <strong>the</strong> ocean shore.<br />
The Pine Cay Homeowners Association is a very<br />
active and hands-on member group, keeping <strong>the</strong><br />
vision <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay moving forward successfully while<br />
retaining <strong>the</strong> magic that drew <strong>the</strong>m all to <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
The Meridian Club has achieved well-deserved<br />
fame over <strong>the</strong> years, attracting stellar reviews for <strong>the</strong><br />
“old style Caribbean” appeal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel, <strong>the</strong> peace<br />
and privacy to be enjoyed, <strong>the</strong> attentive and friendly<br />
local staff, and <strong>the</strong> natural beauty surrounding it. The<br />
Meridian Club is a small and intimate resort with only<br />
thirteen rooms, directly on <strong>the</strong> glorious beach with private<br />
patios and superb dining. Villas are also for rent<br />
on <strong>the</strong> island. Visit www.meridanclub.com to find out<br />
more and book your Pine Cay experience.<br />
The Meridian Club’s pool/patio area is steps from <strong>the</strong> glorious beach.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 59
Clockwise from top left: Pine Cay’s arrival dock welcomes guests arriving by boat from <strong>the</strong> Leeward dock in Provo. Guests on Pine Cay are<br />
provided hobie cat sailboats and kayaks to explore <strong>the</strong> surrounding waters. There is a 2,800 foot airstrip for members’ private planes. In spite<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> modern airstrip, this homey sign welcomes you.<br />
60 www.timespub.tc
Accolades from famous travel writers extoll:<br />
• “A delightful air <strong>of</strong> natural simplicity and barefoot<br />
informality characterizes this enchanting escapist<br />
gem where sophisticated island purists unwind along<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean’s last great untrammeled<br />
beaches.” Hideaway Report<br />
• “Mind-altering tranquility, as well as delicious<br />
food, an attentive staff, and a perfect two-mile long<br />
beach . . . The atmosphere here is old-money casual:<br />
men are asked to wear collared shirts to dinner, but<br />
shoes are optional.” Expedia Travels magazine<br />
This unique capital asset is jointly owned by <strong>the</strong><br />
Pine Cay members, and in essence The Meridian Club<br />
hotel has become <strong>the</strong> members’ country club for lunch,<br />
<strong>the</strong> pool, <strong>the</strong> bar, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice conveniences and for elegant<br />
evening dining. The beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> turquoise sea<br />
floods your eyes as you sit on <strong>the</strong> pool deck under<br />
a tiki palmtop shade, savouring a delectable meal—<br />
amazement indeed that this is available three hours<br />
from New York City! The accessibility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is a huge factor in <strong>the</strong> growing popularity<br />
<strong>of</strong> this destination, and yet Pine Cay remains calm<br />
and untouched, unhurried, a rare treasure.<br />
Admittedly, <strong>the</strong> image <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay over <strong>the</strong> years<br />
was <strong>of</strong> a spartan, rustic, even snobbish private island<br />
espousing a minimalist lifestyle and cherishing privacy<br />
with fervor. Today, a beautiful boutique resort<br />
and intriguing member families share <strong>the</strong>ir pristine<br />
island and welcome visitors. The fishing, snorkeling,<br />
kiteboarding, sailing, kayaking, biking, nature trails,<br />
and fabulous beaches all <strong>of</strong>fer splendid ways to spend<br />
your days on Pine Cay. The members come from many<br />
walks <strong>of</strong> life, creating a warm and eclectic community<br />
that desired a retreat and respected environmental<br />
ethics to ensure a pristine future. Now, early members,<br />
second-generation members, and new members<br />
from <strong>the</strong> USA, Canada, France, England, Germany, and<br />
Switzerland share <strong>the</strong> same love and vision for Pine<br />
Cay.<br />
Along with <strong>the</strong> natural environment, members<br />
esteem Pine Cay’s social environment. The staff are<br />
predominantly from nearby islands such as North<br />
Caicos, and many have worked at Pine Cay for most<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir adult lives, building strong friendships with<br />
member-families over <strong>the</strong> years. Pine Cay members<br />
have set a very high standard for educating <strong>the</strong> staff<br />
and supporting local heritage and traditional culture.<br />
Formally, <strong>the</strong> Pine Cay Foundation was set up as a<br />
charity organization to work across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
Forbes, Forbes & Forbes, Ltd.<br />
Properties for Sale on Pine Cay<br />
Orchid Point - Three bedroom beachhouse, huge views<br />
<br />
Sandcastle - <br />
<br />
SandDollar Point - <br />
<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Pond - <br />
<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Channel - <br />
<br />
Pine Cay Realty Services cell: 1-649-231-4884<br />
www.pinecayrealty.com info@pinecayrealty.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 61
30Years<br />
Assisting domestic and international clients for over 30 years<br />
Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848<br />
Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> <strong>of</strong>fering support for literacy, schools, computers,<br />
and scholarships. The original science fair held on<br />
Pine Cay for promising young students was a trailblazing<br />
success and became a touchstone for foundation<br />
goals.<br />
Slowly change has come to Pine Cay—gracefully,<br />
step by step—to complete a makeover across<br />
<strong>the</strong> island. The daily challenges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> early days are<br />
gone as <strong>the</strong> attentive staff makes sure every need is<br />
met, both for hotel guests and homeowners. In <strong>the</strong><br />
past five years, The Meridian Club has seen a total<br />
refresh to <strong>the</strong> pool, patio deck, and hotel rooms, with<br />
new outdoor dining pavilions, an open lobby <strong>of</strong>fice<br />
and shop, with <strong>the</strong> outdoor tennis courts resurfaced,<br />
and a family beach picnic area completed. The island<br />
power supply and infrastructure has been newly laid<br />
and vastly increased, with solar hot water installation<br />
totally functional.<br />
The marina has been updated with a fleet <strong>of</strong><br />
Parker vessels acquired for transport to and from<br />
Providenciales, and a bonefishing boat, snorkeling<br />
excursion pontoon boat, and Kingfisher deep sea craft<br />
ready to explore all <strong>the</strong> best fishing and snorkeling<br />
spots. A full service marina is maintained, with boat<br />
slips for vessels up to 30 feet in length. Near <strong>the</strong> airstrip,<br />
covered boat storage is available <strong>of</strong>f season and<br />
mechanics are on hand to ensure your boat is always<br />
ready to go.<br />
A fabulous beachfront home was completed in<br />
late 2014 and extensive modernizations and expansion<br />
projects have been completed on many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
older cottages. The original homes built on Pine Cay<br />
typically included 1,200 to 1,500 square feet <strong>of</strong> living<br />
space, and were mostly wooden pod designs raised on<br />
pilings, with small kitchens (as most <strong>of</strong>ten members<br />
ate toge<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> Meridian Club!) The most recent<br />
home built is almost 4,000 square feet, an attractive<br />
two story design with open plan, infinity-view living<br />
room.<br />
The evolution <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay has led to <strong>the</strong> current<br />
complementarity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tiny (yet magnificent) boutique<br />
resort hotel and <strong>the</strong> intriguing (yet slightly eccentric)<br />
membership community <strong>of</strong> homeowners who amicably<br />
share <strong>the</strong> island. This is a unique development,<br />
whereby 600 acres and all capital assets are under<br />
shared ownership, yet members hold <strong>the</strong>ir own properties<br />
under separate title. Decisions for <strong>the</strong> island are<br />
taken toge<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> PCHA’s annual general meeting,<br />
with many owners on island to actively engage in <strong>the</strong><br />
62 www.timespub.tc
Seaquester, Pine Cay<br />
Twenty-five years ago, <strong>the</strong> owners <strong>of</strong> this hidden gem sought a large shoreline property on a tranquil beach with warm turquoise waters <strong>of</strong>fering<br />
serenity. With 500 feet <strong>of</strong> frontage and 5.6 acres, this home site is perfect for expanding <strong>the</strong> family compound or in its current form as a lovingly<br />
maintained 2 bedroom island retreat with interior space totaling 1,200 sq. ft. and over 600 sq. ft. wrap around private terrace complemented on<br />
<strong>the</strong> exterior areas by thoughtful indigenous-style landscaping and resident lime trees. Offered fully furnished, it has been updated throughout and<br />
is in move-in condition.<br />
Offered at $3,200,000 | turksandcaicosSIR.com | MLS# 1500103<br />
Dee Agingu<br />
t 649.946.4474 c 649.231.3534<br />
dee@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
Nina Siegenthaler<br />
t 649.946.4474 c 649.231.0707<br />
nina@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
Koala Run, Pine Cay<br />
Koala Run is a meticulously maintained home with 300’ <strong>of</strong> frontage on <strong>the</strong> Channel with 1,750 SF <strong>of</strong> indoor living space, including three bedrooms<br />
and three bathrooms, as well as, 1,000 SF <strong>of</strong> private terrace and raised viewing platform for <strong>the</strong> outdoor living we all crave here on <strong>the</strong> islands.<br />
On entering Koala Run, your body and mind immediately relaxes to match <strong>the</strong> peace and tranquility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spectacular turquoise ocean views.<br />
Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three bedrooms plus <strong>the</strong> open plan living/dining/kitchen areas all enjoy water views. The home is <strong>of</strong>fered fully furnished and equipped<br />
as a turn-key home including inflatable 6 person Dinghy with new engine, 2 bicycles, 3 kayaks with safety equipment, 2 golf carts, and fishing gear.<br />
Imelda Burke<br />
t 649.946.4474 c 649.242.1241<br />
imelda@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
Offered at $1,049,000<br />
turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />
MLS# 1500675<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 63
This aerial shot shows <strong>the</strong> lovely curve <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay’s beach.<br />
discussion. Christmas and Easter vacations bring most<br />
families to <strong>the</strong> island, opening doors to friendships<br />
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is a long term decision for your family through generations, and a remarkable chance to preserve this unique<br />
island paradise. a<br />
Sara Kaufman moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in 1994 after fifteen years in Europe as a top management<br />
consultant. She lives in Middle Caicos and was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original developers<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Blue Horizon Resort. Sara writes frequent articles and e-newsletters<br />
featuring real estate information about Turks & Caicos published internationally.<br />
As manager <strong>of</strong> Forbes, Forbes & Forbes Ltd., a company created to sell<br />
real estate “Go Beyond Provo,” Sara began a dedicated property sales program<br />
for Pine Cay in 2005 and has sold most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> properties on island<br />
since that time. The company <strong>of</strong>fers full real estate services both for members<br />
selling <strong>the</strong>ir properties on island and as buyers-representative for persons<br />
wishing to investigate property and membership opportunities on Pine Cay.<br />
Visit www.pinecayrealty.com for island information and current property<br />
listings available through Forbes, Forbes & Forbes Ltd. Contact Sara at<br />
info@pinecayrealty.com or call (649) 231-4884.<br />
64 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />
tel 649 946 2<strong>16</strong>0 • fax 649 946 2<strong>16</strong>0 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
A marine archaeologist examines <strong>the</strong> exposed hull remains <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wreck thought to be <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />
“unfinished stories.”<br />
Fill in <strong>the</strong> Blanks<br />
By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />
This issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe contains two good examples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “two-way street” type <strong>of</strong> articles we like to publish. On<br />
one hand <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer entertaining and instructive stories stemming from research conducted by historians, archaeologists,<br />
archival researchers, and o<strong>the</strong>r authorities. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand <strong>the</strong>y acknowledge that <strong>the</strong> stories are <strong>of</strong>ten not<br />
complete, that pieces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> puzzle are still missing, and encourage readers to get involved and help fill in <strong>the</strong> blanks.<br />
The story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore is one that should by now be familiar to our readers. The Museum has<br />
been piecing it toge<strong>the</strong>r for <strong>the</strong> last 22 years and we’re still at it. In <strong>the</strong> “Unfinished Story” interview on <strong>the</strong> next<br />
page, filmmakers Richard Coberly and Veronica Veerkamp talk about what you can do to help us finish “The Search<br />
for Trouvadore” documentary, and why <strong>the</strong> film is a critical part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> research.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r example <strong>of</strong> a two-way street approach is Peter Marshall’s article. I recently discovered that Peter, a<br />
colleague for at least 35 years, has a unique and extensive collection <strong>of</strong> stamps, postcards, envelopes, and even<br />
“Ham” radio QSL cards from <strong>the</strong> TCI. When he learned <strong>of</strong> our common interest in <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>, he was kind enough<br />
to share images <strong>of</strong> items in his collection as well as his perceptions about <strong>the</strong>ir significance. His study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> postal<br />
history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI has raised questions that he hopes local knowledge can answer.<br />
Sherlin Williams’ article about Neal Coverley, Grand Turk’s turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> century “postcard man,” is a nice complement<br />
to Peter’s, revealing ano<strong>the</strong>r aspect <strong>of</strong> postal history from <strong>the</strong> perspective <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> postcard producer!<br />
With hurricane season safely behind us and <strong>the</strong> “High Season” fast approaching, <strong>the</strong> Museum is gearing up<br />
with new exhibits, new merchandise in <strong>the</strong> shop, and new educational programs for students on Grand Turk and<br />
Providenciales. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 65
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Videographer Fujio Watanabe shoots surface operations <strong>of</strong>f East Caicos.<br />
An Unfinished Story<br />
Trouvadore documentary is over 13 years in <strong>the</strong> making.<br />
By Dr. Donald H. Keith ~ Photos By Windward Media<br />
Prologue: In 1993 Museum Founder Gre<strong>the</strong> Seim and Dr. Donald Keith discovered a document in <strong>the</strong><br />
Smithsonian Institution that set <strong>of</strong>f a large-scale, long-term research project: <strong>the</strong> amazing but true story<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore. The Astrolabe has carried articles and updates following this project for<br />
more than a decade, and it continues to this day. In all probability it will continue for decades.<br />
Now what <strong>the</strong> project needs most is exposure. Not only exposure to <strong>the</strong> public, but also to o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
researchers in o<strong>the</strong>r lands with access to o<strong>the</strong>r records and resources that could help us find <strong>the</strong> missing<br />
pieces.<br />
66 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Story. The best way to accomplish that is with a documentary<br />
video. In <strong>the</strong> 21st century <strong>the</strong> video medium is<br />
what we turn to first for entertainment, to find <strong>the</strong> answer<br />
to a question, or get a message out.<br />
Recent publicity about discoveries <strong>of</strong> possible slave<br />
shipwrecks in South Africa, <strong>the</strong> Florida Keys, and <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas have generated more public awareness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
part slave ships played in <strong>the</strong> African Diaspora. Richard<br />
Coberly (RC) and Veronica Veerkamp (VV) are documentary<br />
producers with Windward Media in Houston, Texas,<br />
who have been researching and filming <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />
Search for Trouvadore Project from <strong>the</strong> beginning.<br />
In a recent interview with Museum Director Pat<br />
Saxton, <strong>the</strong>y explained how <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore documentary<br />
film project came about and what it’s going to take to<br />
make it a reality.<br />
Q: When did you first get <strong>the</strong> idea to make a documentary<br />
about <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore story?<br />
A: VV: I think it started in <strong>the</strong> late 1990s when we went to<br />
interview Dr. Toni Carrell at Ships <strong>of</strong> Discovery in Corpus<br />
Christi. We were doing a documentary film on <strong>the</strong> discovery<br />
and excavation <strong>of</strong> La Belle, a ship French explorer La<br />
Salle lost <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Texas in <strong>16</strong>86. Dr. Carrell was<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> archaeologists working on <strong>the</strong> project at <strong>the</strong><br />
time. She mentioned her colleagues had recently discovered<br />
<strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> a long-forgotten slave ship in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
that might be even more enthralling, and that <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
planning to look for it.<br />
Q: And that was <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore?<br />
A: VV: Yes, although that’s just one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ways it’s<br />
spelled in in <strong>the</strong> dispatches between Grand Turk and<br />
Nassau, “Trovadore,” “Traubadore,” “Travadore,”<br />
“Troubadour,” etc. Its identity and basic information were<br />
murky because <strong>the</strong> trans-Atlantic slave trade had been<br />
banned by that time. Secrecy was paramount, so ships<br />
involved in <strong>the</strong> trade worked hard to hide or disguise<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir origins, ownership, and identities. They changed<br />
names frequently and <strong>of</strong>ten carried multiple captains,<br />
logs, and sets <strong>of</strong> papers to support different registrations<br />
and nationalities.<br />
Q: When did you actually start shooting for <strong>the</strong> film?<br />
A: RC: We started shooting in TCI in 2002, but <strong>the</strong> first<br />
expedition footage was shot in 2004, so we’ve been at it<br />
for about 13 years, on and <strong>of</strong>f.<br />
From top: Interviewees Veronica Veerkamp and Richard Coberly <strong>of</strong><br />
Windward Media share <strong>the</strong>ir thoughts on making a documentary<br />
about <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore.<br />
Shooting a documentary isn’t cheap, particularly when it involves<br />
filming not only on and under <strong>the</strong> water, but above it as well!<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 67
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Q: Did you ever have any tense moments<br />
shooting out in <strong>the</strong> field?<br />
A: VV: No, not really what you could call tense.<br />
Anxious perhaps.<br />
RC: Well, <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>the</strong> time when we had<br />
to make a night crossing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks Island<br />
Passage with three 15-foot skiffs and Hurricane<br />
Francis coming in. Then <strong>the</strong> government sent<br />
all non-residents out until <strong>the</strong> storm passed.<br />
Of course we had to pack all our camera gear<br />
and fly home, <strong>the</strong>n return after three days to<br />
resume shooting. Given all <strong>the</strong> gear we require,<br />
that was quite a chore, but certainly better than<br />
<strong>the</strong> alternative.<br />
VV: Oh yeah, and <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>the</strong> time that<br />
we were looking for a safe overnight anchorage<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Caicos Explorer got “embayed” in<br />
Jacksonville Cut in a minefield <strong>of</strong> coral heads<br />
just under <strong>the</strong> surface. The whole expedition<br />
could have ended right <strong>the</strong>n and <strong>the</strong>re if <strong>the</strong><br />
Captain had made a single false move.<br />
RC: Then <strong>the</strong> time two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> team members<br />
flipped <strong>the</strong> ship’s dingy while attempting to<br />
establish a safe passage over <strong>the</strong> reef. That one<br />
really had <strong>the</strong> potential for disaster. We lost<br />
some equipment, but amazingly no one was<br />
injured!<br />
VV: Don’t forget <strong>the</strong> “Mag Boys” from Sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
Archaeological Research. Not only did <strong>the</strong>ir magnetometer<br />
get attacked by a barracuda, but <strong>the</strong> first day out on<br />
<strong>the</strong> survey, <strong>the</strong>y drowned <strong>the</strong>ir computer. Fortunately one<br />
<strong>of</strong> our camera operators had a laptop to loan <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong><br />
duration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> survey.<br />
Q: How long did <strong>the</strong> field work take?<br />
A: VV: It took years! After a couple <strong>of</strong> reconnaissance<br />
trips to East Caicos, which is uninhabited, it was clear<br />
that we would all have to work <strong>of</strong>f a ship. So in 2004,<br />
2006, and 2008, we chartered <strong>the</strong> live-aboard dive boat<br />
Turks & Caicos Explorer to serve as our “mo<strong>the</strong>r ship”.<br />
Anchored outside <strong>the</strong> reef <strong>of</strong>f Breezy Point, we filmed as<br />
<strong>the</strong>y searched <strong>the</strong> whole north coast <strong>of</strong> East Caicos, which<br />
was known to be littered with shipwreck material.<br />
Q: So, when did <strong>the</strong>y actually discover <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore?<br />
A: RC: Well, that’s kind <strong>of</strong> a funny story. When we<br />
From top: The reef that guards <strong>the</strong> site had to be crossed twice each day—not<br />
always with success!<br />
All elements <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> project were filmed, including this attempt to repair a<br />
drowned laptop computer.<br />
returned to East Caicos after Hurricane Francis in 2004,<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> team members who was dodging coral heads<br />
while being towed behind a small boat spotted “something<br />
that didn’t look right.” Divers were dispatched<br />
immediately to check it out, and after a cursory examination<br />
<strong>the</strong>y realized it was <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> an old wooden<br />
ship. At <strong>the</strong> time, we thought it was an excellent candidate<br />
for being <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> Trouvadore, but we called it<br />
<strong>the</strong> “Black Rock Wreck” because <strong>of</strong> its location. It took two<br />
more expeditions to fully examine <strong>the</strong> site, and eliminate<br />
all <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r possibilities.<br />
Q: What did you think <strong>the</strong> first time you saw <strong>the</strong> Black<br />
Rock Wreck underwater?<br />
A: RC: There wasn’t much to see at first, just a pile <strong>of</strong><br />
seaweed-encrusted rocks—<strong>the</strong> ballast stones that every<br />
wooden sailing ship carried in its belly. It took weeks <strong>of</strong><br />
excavation before you could clearly see <strong>the</strong> hull structure<br />
which had been buried in <strong>the</strong> sand.<br />
68 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Q: Just to play <strong>the</strong> Devil’s Advocate, how do you know<br />
it was <strong>the</strong> right ship?<br />
A: VV: Well, <strong>the</strong>re was no “smoking gun” like a big brass<br />
ship’s bell with “Slave Ship Trouvadore” written on it—<br />
that only happens in <strong>the</strong> movies! This was more <strong>of</strong> a<br />
Sherlock Holmes type <strong>of</strong> investigation. According to <strong>the</strong><br />
archeologists, this was <strong>the</strong> only wreck on <strong>the</strong> North coast<br />
<strong>of</strong> East Caicos that had <strong>the</strong> right location, artifacts, and<br />
construction characteristics.<br />
Q. What’s <strong>the</strong> suspected connection between <strong>the</strong><br />
Trouvadore and modern-day Turks & Caicos Islanders?<br />
A: RC: We know from <strong>the</strong> records that 196 Africans<br />
onboard Trouvadore survived <strong>the</strong> wrecking at Breezy<br />
Point. They were rescued and freed by British authorities,<br />
and after a short “apprenticeship” in local trades, were<br />
given small plots <strong>of</strong> Crown land in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to<br />
live on and farm. We believe <strong>the</strong> area <strong>the</strong>y settled is now<br />
known as Bambarra on Middle Caicos, and <strong>the</strong>ir descendants<br />
live <strong>the</strong>re to this day.<br />
be compared with <strong>the</strong>se African databases to find out<br />
exactly where <strong>the</strong>ir ancestors came from.<br />
Q: Let’s talk about <strong>the</strong> film. What happened when <strong>the</strong><br />
announcement was made about <strong>the</strong> discovery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Trouvadore in 2008?<br />
A: RC: It went all over <strong>the</strong> world. Someone called excitedly<br />
one morning to ask if I had seen <strong>the</strong> news articles<br />
about it on <strong>the</strong> Internet. I was amazed at <strong>the</strong> international<br />
interest, even in China. There were nearly 100 articles in<br />
multiple languages, with tens <strong>of</strong> millions <strong>of</strong> hits!<br />
VV: Of course, we thought with all that interest it should<br />
be a shoo-in to get funding for <strong>the</strong> documentary, but<br />
interest does not always translate into underwriting.<br />
Q: How sure can you be sure that <strong>the</strong>re is a connection<br />
between Trouvadore, Bambara in Africa, and<br />
Bambarra on Middle Caicos?<br />
A: VV: Well, what constitutes pro<strong>of</strong>? There’s <strong>the</strong> similar<br />
place names, to start with. The first Africans in <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> came down from Georgia and Florida after <strong>the</strong> US<br />
War <strong>of</strong> Independence in <strong>the</strong> 1790s. It’s unlikely that <strong>the</strong>y<br />
would have retained <strong>the</strong> memory <strong>of</strong> place names or language<br />
families in Africa—but <strong>the</strong> people on Trouvadore<br />
could have.<br />
We also have local oral tradition. For example, former<br />
TCI Director <strong>of</strong> Culture David Bowen spent time as a boy<br />
with his great-grandmo<strong>the</strong>r in Bambarra, and he recalls<br />
her talking about her grandmo<strong>the</strong>r coming from a slave<br />
ship wreck.<br />
Q: What about DNA studies? Couldn’t <strong>the</strong>y help<br />
resolve <strong>the</strong> origin <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> Bambarra?<br />
A: VV: Absolutely! Modern medical science has provided<br />
all <strong>of</strong> us with a way—which until now was impossible—to<br />
establish incontrovertible connections with our origins<br />
and distant relatives. Because humanity originated in<br />
Africa, a tremendous amount <strong>of</strong> DNA research has been<br />
done <strong>the</strong>re and now huge databases exist. DNA samples<br />
from Africans living on this side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Atlantic can<br />
Capt. Jean-Francois Chabot shoots <strong>the</strong> wreck site underwater.<br />
Q: What does a documentary like this cost to produce<br />
and how long does it take?<br />
A: RC: Documentary production isn’t a one-step process.<br />
Every element requires funding <strong>of</strong> different amounts and<br />
at different times, especially when you have to follow <strong>the</strong><br />
process <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> archaeology and research. After <strong>the</strong> actual<br />
expedition shooting is done, <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> story must<br />
be written and filmed, edited, and distributed. These are<br />
<strong>the</strong> things that truly cost <strong>the</strong> most, and can range from<br />
$200,000 to more than $1,000,000, depending on how<br />
<strong>the</strong> film is structured. In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore project,<br />
all <strong>the</strong> elements after <strong>the</strong> expeditions have yet to be<br />
funded and filmed.<br />
Q: Why is it so important to make a documentary film<br />
about <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore story? Hasn’t it already been<br />
told?<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 69
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Search for Trouvadore Project<br />
To view videos about <strong>the</strong> Search for Trouvadore<br />
Project, go to:<br />
http://ocean.si.edu/ocean-videos/trouvadore-story-deliverance<br />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDIM37Xf3dE<br />
For more information or to contribute to <strong>the</strong> production<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore documentary contact:<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos:<br />
Patricia P. Saxton, Director<br />
Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />
pat.saxton@tcmuseum.org<br />
649-946-2<strong>16</strong>0<br />
VOI: 505-2<strong>16</strong>-1795 •Cell: 649-231-1891<br />
For US taxpayers, your support is tax deductible<br />
when made through <strong>the</strong> Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos National Museum Foundation:<br />
Dr. Donald H. Keith, President<br />
Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Foundation<br />
39 Condesa Road<br />
Santa Fe, NM, 87508<br />
dhkeith@ships<strong>of</strong>discovery.org<br />
Cell: 361-779-3861 • Office: 505-466-2240<br />
Among <strong>the</strong> scores <strong>of</strong> people involved in <strong>the</strong> research, excavation, and<br />
filming <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Search for Trouvadore” is this team <strong>of</strong> archaeologists,<br />
videographers, and crew members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Explorer<br />
during <strong>the</strong> 2008 season.<br />
A: RC: Documentary films typically reach <strong>the</strong> largest possible<br />
audience, more than any o<strong>the</strong>r medium, including<br />
magazines, books, or any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r “traditional” ways<br />
<strong>of</strong> getting <strong>the</strong> word out. And it isn’t just getting <strong>the</strong> word<br />
out, it’s what <strong>the</strong> word is. It isn’t just one story . . . it’s<br />
many stories.<br />
Q: And how do you intend to tell <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore<br />
story?<br />
A: RC: Recently <strong>the</strong>re has been increasing interest in<br />
“slave ship archeology” but very few documentaries have<br />
been made on <strong>the</strong> subject. People are surprised to learn<br />
that only a handful have ever been found and studied,<br />
and Trouvadore is <strong>the</strong> first to actually be carrying slaves<br />
at <strong>the</strong> time it wrecked. Given <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> African<br />
slave trade, being able to trace anyone’s lineage directly<br />
back to <strong>the</strong>ir ancestral homelands is almost unheard <strong>of</strong>.<br />
VV: Of course, many films have been made about <strong>the</strong><br />
infamous “Middle Passage,” and how wrong <strong>the</strong> institution<br />
<strong>of</strong> slavery was in <strong>the</strong> first place, but <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore<br />
story is different.<br />
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Q: Different? How do you mean?<br />
A: VV: It’s <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> a voyage that ended in shipwreck,<br />
but for <strong>the</strong> Africans on board it wasn’t a tragedy, it was<br />
deliverance! British subjects in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> resisted<br />
<strong>the</strong> handsome bribes <strong>of</strong>fered by <strong>the</strong> Spanish captain, and<br />
reported <strong>the</strong> wreck to <strong>the</strong> proper authorities who arrested<br />
<strong>the</strong> captain and crew and freed <strong>the</strong> Africans.<br />
It’s <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> how an accidental discovery <strong>of</strong> an<br />
old letter in <strong>the</strong> Smithsonian led to a shipwreck with a<br />
direct connection to <strong>the</strong> modern-day inhabitants <strong>of</strong> a tiny<br />
settlement on Middle Caicos. It tells why museums and<br />
<strong>the</strong> artifacts and records <strong>the</strong>y preserve in perpetuity are<br />
so important: human memory is short and inaccurate.<br />
Q: So you’ve been working on this for 13 years?!<br />
Where did <strong>the</strong> funding come from all that time?<br />
A: VV: Working closely with <strong>the</strong> TC National Museum<br />
and Ships <strong>of</strong> Discovery, we’ve had a variety <strong>of</strong> supporters<br />
over <strong>the</strong> years. In fact, <strong>the</strong>re’s been a lot <strong>of</strong> interest and<br />
support from outside <strong>the</strong> TCI. We received grants from<br />
<strong>the</strong> US National Science Foundation and NOAA, and <strong>the</strong><br />
Dayton, Teddy, and San Francisco Foundations, among<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs. In <strong>the</strong> TCI we got support from <strong>the</strong> Hotel & Tourist<br />
Association, <strong>the</strong> Tourist Board, <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group, <strong>the</strong><br />
Krieble Foundation, <strong>the</strong> TCI Conservation Fund, Mr. John<br />
M. Frey, and o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />
Q: So what’s next?<br />
A: RC: Right now we’re working with distributors from<br />
Australia and Canada to partner with international production<br />
companies who would participate in funding and<br />
broadcasting <strong>the</strong> first class documentary that <strong>the</strong> “Search<br />
for Trouvadore” deserves.<br />
VV: Even before any major funding can come from international<br />
broadcast partners, <strong>the</strong> documentary still must<br />
raise funds to produce both <strong>the</strong> material for promoting<br />
<strong>the</strong> project, and to make sure <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> production<br />
is as high as possible. Even though <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore<br />
story is an international one, at its core, it really is about<br />
<strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI who we hope will continue to support<br />
<strong>the</strong> project, and help us finish <strong>the</strong>ir story. a<br />
Museum matters<br />
Anniversary celebration<br />
In November <strong>2015</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum will celebrate <strong>the</strong> 24th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
day we first opened our doors. We like to think that<br />
<strong>the</strong> Museum’s Founder, Mrs. Gre<strong>the</strong> Seim would<br />
be proud <strong>of</strong> what we have accomplished. A glance<br />
backward over <strong>the</strong> last five years shows that we have<br />
come a long way.<br />
In <strong>2015</strong> we<br />
received a donation<br />
from HE Governor<br />
Beckingham’s<br />
<strong>of</strong>fice for a new<br />
exhibit showcasing<br />
a 19th century<br />
colonial <strong>of</strong>fice (at<br />
left). The Museum closed from September 1–15 so<br />
we could install that exhibit and upgrade o<strong>the</strong>rs. The<br />
John Glenn exhibit now is in a brighter room, with<br />
new information about <strong>the</strong> US bases and <strong>the</strong> men<br />
who served in TCI. We thank all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ex-servicemen<br />
who donated <strong>the</strong>ir photos, memorabilia and stories.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r new additions are <strong>the</strong> information boards and<br />
“windows” into <strong>the</strong> Salt Industry, featuring a large<br />
scale model <strong>of</strong> a salina windmill, photos, and artefacts.<br />
Neil Saxton and Charles Kesnel worked diligently<br />
to make sure we opened on September <strong>16</strong>. Along <strong>the</strong><br />
way <strong>the</strong>y had <strong>the</strong> usual surprises: rotten wood, termites<br />
and crazy electrical wiring. Remodeling a house<br />
which is itself an almost 200 year old artifact isn’t<br />
easy. But our small, mighty team <strong>of</strong> workers overcame<br />
<strong>the</strong> obstacles and our new exhibits are wonderful. We<br />
will be adding plaques naming <strong>the</strong> past governors<br />
and premiers along with more photography <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Queen’s visits. Also new is that all visitors will now<br />
receive a guide to <strong>the</strong> upstairs, explaining <strong>the</strong> exhibits<br />
along with a bit <strong>of</strong> history about Guinep House.<br />
Everything will be in place for <strong>the</strong> grand opening<br />
in mid-November <strong>2015</strong> to kick <strong>of</strong>f our anniversary!<br />
HE Governor Beckingham will do <strong>the</strong> honors, and it<br />
will be an event for members and supporters. a<br />
Story & Photos By Museum Director Pat Saxton<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 71
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A range <strong>of</strong> early stamps is shown all used toge<strong>the</strong>r on one postcard in 1927.<br />
The Original “Snail Mail”<br />
A glimpse at <strong>the</strong> postal history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Story & Photos By Peter Marshall<br />
Many people <strong>the</strong> world over have never heard <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. But among philatelists (a<br />
posh word for stamp collectors, myself included), <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> are famous for <strong>the</strong> colourful, diverse postage<br />
stamps <strong>the</strong>y issue.<br />
Until <strong>the</strong> salt-raking stamps were introduced it was only <strong>the</strong> postcards that told anything about what<br />
could be found in <strong>the</strong>se islands. My own interest gradually became more focused on <strong>the</strong> postcards and<br />
envelopes <strong>the</strong>mselves, adding to <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. I have not found any picture postcard before<br />
1900. Many, if not most, were sent by visitors, and are more likely to be found abroad, as indeed are<br />
most stamps and envelopes.<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
I imagine that few readers <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Astrolabe can remember stamps<br />
much fur<strong>the</strong>r back than 1967 when<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> celebrated <strong>the</strong><br />
100th Anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir “separation”<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. Interestingly,<br />
up to 1900, TCI stamps carried <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks <strong>Islands</strong> name only and <strong>the</strong>reafter,<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Before<br />
1867 <strong>the</strong>re were no stamps but just a<br />
simple postmark to show that postage<br />
had been paid. Given <strong>the</strong> relatively<br />
small population <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, it<br />
was almost inevitable that properly<br />
used stamps would be scarcer than<br />
those unfranked. As years advanced,<br />
stamps became more and more<br />
important as revenue generators for<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> through stamp collectors<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than just postal use.<br />
There were half a dozen o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
issues up until <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> present<br />
monarch but less than 15 in total<br />
in nearly 90 years before <strong>the</strong>n, and<br />
some <strong>of</strong> those included stamps for<br />
events such as coronations, victory,<br />
etc.<br />
When did <strong>the</strong>y think <strong>of</strong> introducing<br />
<strong>the</strong> local postage rate <strong>of</strong> ¼d?<br />
Perhaps during 1909 when <strong>the</strong> next<br />
design, showing a portrait <strong>of</strong> King<br />
Edward VII, was issued but without<br />
that value. The ¼d “cactus” design<br />
came out <strong>the</strong> following year. Was it a<br />
trial overprint or just a bogus stamp?<br />
Does any reader have an old family<br />
album with perhaps a letter or card<br />
tucked away, which was delivered<br />
with that stamp applied? This is an<br />
example <strong>of</strong> where <strong>the</strong> philatelist<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten has to rely on local knowledge,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> longer one does not ask <strong>the</strong><br />
question, <strong>the</strong> less likely that we will<br />
know. Can YOU help?<br />
The customs house produces<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r query for YOU! OHMS cor-<br />
Some later issues are shown here, including <strong>the</strong> George V Jubilee, value across which has<br />
been perforated “SPECIMEN”.<br />
There is no lack <strong>of</strong> material to interest <strong>the</strong> serious philatelist. These early “Provisional” overprint<br />
issues <strong>of</strong> 1881 were introduced as a stop-gap to suit <strong>the</strong> postal rates <strong>of</strong> 1881 before <strong>the</strong><br />
new stamps were issued in 1882.<br />
Even from early days, most stamps, pre-paid postcards, and pre-paid envelopes were issued to<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r nations as “samples” with <strong>the</strong> word “specimen” added, and one or two applied <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />
additional marks (as Portugal applied “Ultramar” to <strong>the</strong> far right stamp). The lovely “badge <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> colony” stamps, issued at <strong>the</strong> turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19th century, also had a provisional overprint<br />
<strong>of</strong> ¼d on its ½d value. These have been assumed not to be genuine postal stamps, but I have<br />
a letter from <strong>the</strong> late John Challis, a specialist in <strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI, that <strong>the</strong>y were “genuine”<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than a philatelic issue. The sending <strong>of</strong> mail by a particular passing ship is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
written or stamped on <strong>the</strong> card or envelope, but <strong>the</strong> stamp shown on <strong>the</strong> far left has <strong>the</strong> “SS<br />
SEMINOLE” cancelled across <strong>the</strong> stamp itself.<br />
This plain pre-stamped card was sent “folded” with a reply card attached, already prepaid,<br />
which was valid in any country. This, toge<strong>the</strong>r with that postcard, begins to show <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
much more to postal history than <strong>the</strong> individual stamps. Stamps with <strong>the</strong> badge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> colony<br />
were significant since <strong>the</strong>se were <strong>the</strong> first stamps that acknowledge that people inhabit <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> as well as <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 73
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Left: Shown here is <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> an envelope sent to Mr. I. Levina in 1939 which had been opened by <strong>the</strong> wartime censor en route to Montreal.<br />
Apart from bearing one <strong>of</strong> two types <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Cable & Wireless” markings (indifferently applied inverted), it has something like <strong>the</strong> badge <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> colony pre-printed on <strong>the</strong> envelope’s back flap. Or is it a family crest? If so, are any members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family reading this?<br />
Right: This OHMS envelope has “Customs House Turks <strong>Islands</strong>” stamped on it. When was that in use? Does <strong>the</strong> rubber stamp still exist?<br />
Above: VP5BF is <strong>the</strong> call sign that belonged to Ken Penchoen, South Caicos, and was sent to<br />
<strong>the</strong> man with whom he had made radio contact. VP5AA was Hamilton Robinson, VP5DC Bud<br />
(Lorne) Creech, and VP5PH Seth Hodson.<br />
Left: This is <strong>the</strong> very characterful card VP 5BB. I wonder whe<strong>the</strong>r any <strong>of</strong> Bert Be<strong>the</strong>lsen’s relations,<br />
or those <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs, are still present in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>?<br />
respondence was <strong>of</strong>ten stamped with an oval marked<br />
“Postmaster Turks <strong>Islands</strong>,” usually dated in <strong>the</strong> centre,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> one above has “Customs House Turks <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />
When was that in use (o<strong>the</strong>r than <strong>the</strong> date shown)? Does<br />
<strong>the</strong> rubber stamp still exist, perhaps with <strong>the</strong> postmaster?<br />
Much more recently (only 50 or so years ago!),<br />
<strong>the</strong>re was ano<strong>the</strong>r counterpart to <strong>the</strong> postcard—ham<br />
radio cards identifying individually owned, non-commercial<br />
radio transmitters, by which communication was<br />
instantaneous, long before <strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Internet. The<br />
interest I have in <strong>the</strong>se is that <strong>the</strong>y are from residents<br />
and thus include people’s names. All ham radios in <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI had call signs beginning with VP5.<br />
Envelopes to or from <strong>the</strong> following salt merchants<br />
are also in my album: Harriott Salt, George Frith, Alfred<br />
Stubbs, and Neale Coverley. I wonder if relations <strong>of</strong> those<br />
who worked <strong>the</strong>re are still resident. And what about Oscar<br />
Greg, Edward Cameron (Comissioner at Government<br />
House) or Postmaster T. Lindsay Smith, in <strong>the</strong> 1920s?<br />
If YOU should find something similar to any <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> items mentioned in <strong>the</strong> article, perhaps lurking at<br />
<strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> an old drawer, I would be delighted to<br />
hear from you. I can ei<strong>the</strong>r be contacted at my e-mail<br />
(ar.01177@yahoo.co.uk) or through <strong>the</strong> Museum (info@<br />
tcmuseum.org). Help us reconstruct <strong>the</strong> postal history <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI! a<br />
74 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
In this popular Edmond Neale Coverley postcard, “Cocoanuts and Guinea Corn,” <strong>the</strong> child in <strong>the</strong> foreground is Neal’s oldest son, Litton Flavious<br />
Boller Coverley.<br />
Grand Turk’s Postcard Man<br />
Meet Edmond Neale Coverley.<br />
By Sherlin Willams ~ Illustrations Turks & Caicos National Museum Collection<br />
Edmond Neale Coverley was born on Grand Turk to Flavious Coverley, an Englishman, and Olivia Firth,<br />
a young lady <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wealthy Frith salt merchant clan. Neal, as he was affectionately called, and his wife<br />
Minimia Elodie Astwood, lived with <strong>the</strong>ir children in <strong>the</strong>ir two story home on Middle Street, directly behind<br />
present-day Dots Enterprise.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 75
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Neale became a successful entrepreneur and businessman<br />
on Grand Turk, participating in a wide range <strong>of</strong><br />
enterprises and acquiring a broad spectrum <strong>of</strong> skills. He<br />
owned and operated a store on Front Street, located in<br />
<strong>the</strong> building now occupied by <strong>the</strong> Seventh Day Adventist<br />
Church, selling a large variety <strong>of</strong> items ranging from groceries<br />
to boat anchors! He also did very well buying and<br />
scrapping wrecked ships.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> store Neale had a workshop where<br />
he made shell products for export, repaired watches, and<br />
pulled teeth (ouch!). A good example <strong>of</strong> his ingenuity was<br />
<strong>the</strong> windmill he built to power some <strong>of</strong> his tools. The<br />
store also contained his photography studio and darkroom—elements<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ession that made him famous.<br />
The fact that Neale was so good and successful at so<br />
many things shows that he was extraordinarily talented.<br />
And whilst it’s likely that he was not trained at a photography<br />
institute as I was, his photography is in every<br />
respect that <strong>of</strong> a trained pr<strong>of</strong>essional photographer.<br />
Likewise, Neale captured <strong>the</strong> essence <strong>of</strong> our salt industry<br />
era where none o<strong>the</strong>r came close.<br />
Neale was also a bullish entrepreneur. When <strong>the</strong> government<br />
was looking for persons interested in a scheme<br />
to diversity <strong>the</strong> island’s economy producing cooking oil<br />
from coconuts, Neale stepped up to <strong>the</strong> plate and began<br />
operating a coconut plantation at Little Bluff. The venture<br />
flourished for a while until it fell prey to a plant disease<br />
that wiped <strong>the</strong> trees out.<br />
Neale was <strong>the</strong> island’s number one cricket fan. His<br />
passion for <strong>the</strong> sport led him to sponsor a cricket team<br />
that competed with <strong>the</strong> Police and Cable & Wireless teams.<br />
His business success and o<strong>the</strong>r ventures seemed to enrich<br />
him spiritually; he was a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Anglican Church,<br />
but regularly visited <strong>the</strong> Baptist and Methodist churches.<br />
This was at a time when those denominations were not<br />
popular amongst Salt Island elites.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> wake <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> devastating July 1926 hurricanes,<br />
Neale gave financial assistance to many whose homes<br />
were damaged or lost <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s. He passed away <strong>the</strong><br />
next year at age fifty. His tomb is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first visitors<br />
to St. Thomas’s Church will see after entering <strong>the</strong> main<br />
gate.<br />
The Postcard Man<br />
Neale’s turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> twentieth century postcards covering a<br />
This is a photo <strong>of</strong> Neale “The Postcard Man” and Minimia Coverley.<br />
Middle: In “Holiday – Grand Turk,” note <strong>the</strong> photographers in <strong>the</strong> lower<br />
left corner, <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library on <strong>the</strong> right, and <strong>the</strong> large mounds <strong>of</strong><br />
salt in <strong>the</strong> background.<br />
Bottom: In “Barreling Salt for Export,” note <strong>the</strong> perfect composition:<br />
salt, barrels, donkey cart, and ships in background.<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
In “Lighthouse Grand Turk,” note <strong>the</strong> man on <strong>the</strong> walkway at <strong>the</strong> top<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tower with a telescope!<br />
cross-section <strong>of</strong> life on Grand Turk have given us some <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> best memories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>Islands</strong> during <strong>the</strong>ir heyday.<br />
Apparently he began making black-and-white and sepia<br />
tone postcards in <strong>the</strong> 1890s. His famous “Holiday Grand<br />
Turk,” “Lighthouse Grand Turk,” “Barrelling Salt,” and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r postcards indicate that he took his photography to<br />
a higher level by moving away from sepia tones and into<br />
<strong>the</strong> new colour tones.<br />
Some authors have stated that Neale was <strong>the</strong> photographer<br />
for <strong>the</strong> “Holiday Grand Turk” postcard taken<br />
on Queen Victoria’s fiftieth birthday or during her Silver<br />
Jubilee celebration, because <strong>the</strong> crowd seems to be<br />
ga<strong>the</strong>ring at <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library on <strong>the</strong> right side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
photograph. My research revealed that Neale was born<br />
in 1877. Queen Victoria was born in 1819 and ascended<br />
to <strong>the</strong> throne in 1837. Her fiftieth birthday celebration<br />
would have been held in 1869, before Neale was born,<br />
and her Silver Jubilee would have been in 1887, when<br />
Neale was age ten. Although it is possible that a tenyear-old<br />
boy could have accomplished this, I think it was<br />
highly unlikely. Photographic equipment in those days<br />
was very expensive and probably beyond <strong>the</strong> reach <strong>of</strong><br />
such a young man.<br />
We know <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library on Grand Turk was built<br />
over a period <strong>of</strong> two years and dedicated in her honor in<br />
1889, when Neale was age twenty-one. The Queen died<br />
in 1901, when Neale was age twenty-four. Therefore, it<br />
is only reasonable to conclude that that this great photo<br />
was taken ei<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> Library’s <strong>of</strong>ficial opening or upon<br />
her death, by which time he would have acquired <strong>the</strong><br />
expertise, experience and equipment. But I’m inclined to<br />
believe that it was taken in 1901, when <strong>the</strong> great Queen<br />
passed away.<br />
Notice that <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r photographers in <strong>the</strong><br />
photo. These are amateurs. When taking in a large scene<br />
a pr<strong>of</strong>essional would always get an elevated perspective,<br />
as Neale has done here. His postcard titled “Barreling Salt<br />
for Export” tells me that although he was almost certainly<br />
self-taught, his work was <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional quality. Looking<br />
at this picture, it is easy to tell that <strong>the</strong> mule-cart and<br />
driver are posed. The ship is in <strong>the</strong> perfect position. The<br />
subject, salt, is in <strong>the</strong> foreground along with salt workers:<br />
perfect! The only improvement a photographer <strong>of</strong> today<br />
might make would be to include a little action. We can do<br />
so nowadays because we have cameras with high shutter<br />
speeds capable <strong>of</strong> freezing action—something not<br />
available to Neale. That is why this picture appears to be<br />
unanimated. But its overall qualities are so strong most<br />
viewers would hardly notice. a<br />
The author would like to thank <strong>the</strong> Coverley family and<br />
friends for <strong>the</strong>ir valuable assistance in providing information<br />
on Mr. Edmond Neale Coverley, especially Mr.<br />
Carl Coverley, Neale’s grandson, and <strong>the</strong> late Mr. Oswald<br />
“King Oz” Francis, friend <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family.<br />
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*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum is tax-deductible via<br />
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and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 77
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum matters<br />
Gift shop prepares for <strong>the</strong> season<br />
The TCNM team is gearing up for <strong>the</strong> busy season with<br />
lots <strong>of</strong> new gift shop items. Look for our new collection<br />
<strong>of</strong> Dune Jewelry, made exclusively for <strong>the</strong> Museum.<br />
Sterling silver necklaces, rings, bangles and earrings,<br />
all with a touch <strong>of</strong> sand from Governor’s Beach, make<br />
lovely gifts for someone special.<br />
Our motto, “Take some history home with you,”<br />
doesn’t stop <strong>the</strong>re. We have replicas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt windmill,<br />
brass navigational ornaments and handmade<br />
ornaments filled with sea glass, along with flags and<br />
handmade magnets. And <strong>of</strong> course we continue to<br />
stock baskets from North and Middle Caicos, along with<br />
handmade dolls dressed in <strong>the</strong> TCI native costume.<br />
Our book department is full <strong>of</strong> enthralling volumes<br />
on slavery, cuisine, diving, and island living. And don’t<br />
forget those good children on your list with plush donkeys<br />
that actually bray, floppy flamingos, pirate books,<br />
kits to make a “ship in a bottle,” and our famous book<br />
Where is Simon, Sandy?<br />
From tasty culinary salts and relaxing bath salts<br />
produced on Salt Cay to new Christmas ornaments, fabulous<br />
books, and loads <strong>of</strong> children’s items—make sure<br />
you stop at <strong>the</strong> Guinep House Gift Shop for all <strong>of</strong> your<br />
Christmas shopping.<br />
TCI Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House Hon. Robert Hall, explained <strong>the</strong> intricacies<br />
<strong>of</strong> government to Children’s Camp participants.<br />
Children’s summer camp<br />
This year we celebrate <strong>the</strong> tenth anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Children’s Club! A huge thank-you to 101.9FM and TCI<br />
Weekly News for getting <strong>the</strong> word out about <strong>the</strong> <strong>2015</strong><br />
Children’s Summer Camp, which was well attended.<br />
Educational outings kept our 8–12 year-olds smiling and<br />
inquiring as we started camp on August 24. With four<br />
days to see Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong> campers set out by foot,<br />
trolley and boat. On <strong>the</strong> first day <strong>the</strong>y learned about our<br />
Museum and its Botanical and Cultural Garden. The next<br />
day, Governor’s wife Jill Beckingham opened her historic<br />
home at Waterloo for us to visit. Thank you to Island<br />
Trams for transporting <strong>the</strong> children to and fro.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> third day, we were invited to <strong>the</strong> House <strong>of</strong><br />
Assembly by Hon. Robert Hall, Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House, to<br />
learn all about <strong>the</strong> TCI Government. On <strong>the</strong> fourth day<br />
we walked along Front Street to meet and talk with <strong>the</strong><br />
owners and staff members <strong>of</strong> various local businesses.<br />
The kids learned a lot from Grand Turk Divers, Blue Water<br />
Divers, Turks Head Inn, Osprey Hotel, LIME and finished<br />
<strong>of</strong>f with cookies from <strong>the</strong> Coral Café! Wea<strong>the</strong>r delayed our<br />
annual Gibbs Cay outing until September 26, but we had<br />
a great time. Thanks to Oasis Divers for supplying <strong>the</strong><br />
boat rides!<br />
The Children’s Camp would not have been a success<br />
without <strong>the</strong> assistance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum staff: Fred, Cecile,<br />
Nikki and Pat, along with DEMA volunteers B Naqqi Manco<br />
and Katharine Hart. The camp is free and is supported by<br />
<strong>the</strong> proceeds from Donna Seim’s book Where is Simon,<br />
Sandy? This year we have a new manager, Lavena A.<br />
“Angel” Ben and she brought new and exciting ideas!<br />
We are looking forward to our Children’s Club Saturday<br />
Camps starting in October. a<br />
Story & Photos By Museum Director Pat Saxton<br />
78 www.timespub.tc
faces and places<br />
With main sponsorship from The Wine Cellar, Turquoise Distribution, and Crystal Water, event-goers enjoyed a fun Saturday with great company<br />
and entertainment by Josh Shapiro from New York City and Karen Bizzell from <strong>the</strong> UK. Pauline Barclay along with Hazel Hegewald and<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir committee worked hard to put a seamless event toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great staff at Asú Beach Restaurant at <strong>the</strong> Alexandra Resort.<br />
Third Annual Ladies Hat Luncheon<br />
The annual fundraiser was held on November 14, <strong>2015</strong>, raising $20,000 for local children’s education. It was<br />
attended by hat-conscious ladies <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, as well as regular visitors. The location was <strong>the</strong> new<br />
Asú Beach Restaurant at <strong>the</strong> Alexandra Resort on Grace Bay Beach. There were fabulous prizes for Best Hat, Most<br />
Creative Hat, and Wow Factor Ensemble.<br />
By Claire Parrish ~ Photography Paradise Photography, www.myparadisephoto.com<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s men joined <strong>the</strong> event taking on roles including “Champagne chaperones,” judges, MC, and DJ. Jewelry designer Margo<br />
Manhatton flew in from New York City for her second year at <strong>the</strong> luncheon, donating a piece <strong>of</strong> her jewelry.<br />
Debbie Travin <strong>of</strong> New York’s Resident magazine attended to cover <strong>the</strong> event, seen above centre with organiser Pauline Barclay.<br />
Corporate tables, single tickets, along with silent and live auctions, raised <strong>the</strong> $20,000 for children’s education. Hat judges were presided<br />
over by <strong>the</strong> Honourable Chief Justice Margaret Ramsay-Hale. Politicians present included <strong>the</strong> Honourable Akierra Mary Deanne Missick and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Honourable Josephine Olivia Connolly.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 79
Crossing Africa:<br />
<strong>the</strong> journey begins<br />
Visit Turks Kebab restaurant in Provo,<br />
and you’ll likely find owner Zemar Stingl<br />
talking about her son Mario Rigby. Not<br />
only is <strong>the</strong> 30 year old “Renaissance Man”<br />
her pride and joy, but he is also walking<br />
from Cape Town, South Africa to Cairo,<br />
Egypt. One gets <strong>the</strong> sense that Blue<br />
Hills-born Zemar is sharing <strong>the</strong> journey<br />
vicariously with her son as he documents<br />
<strong>the</strong> experience on social media.<br />
Crossing Africa is a once-in-a-lifetime<br />
expedition to trek across <strong>the</strong> entire<br />
African continent by foot and paddle<br />
boat. It is a rigorous two year journey<br />
that will cover uncharted terrain through twelve countries<br />
in Africa. Every moment will be photographed,<br />
blogged, <strong>the</strong>n made into a documentary. The trek will<br />
showcase <strong>the</strong> struggles endured in unforgiving environments<br />
such as deserts, jungles, and areas <strong>of</strong> civil unrest.<br />
Mario promises to share regular updates with readers <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> as <strong>the</strong> journey progresses.<br />
According to Mario, <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> his mission is to<br />
follow <strong>the</strong> traces <strong>of</strong> his ancestors in what is a dangerous<br />
and mysterious terrain. It was an African tradition for<br />
boys to spend 3 to 5 years alone in <strong>the</strong> “bush,” learning<br />
to survive, eventually emerging as men. Mario wants to<br />
share <strong>the</strong> raw beauty and keep readers/viewers entertained<br />
with <strong>the</strong> unexpected circumstances that he will<br />
find along <strong>the</strong> way!<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same time, he wants to test <strong>the</strong> boundaries<br />
<strong>of</strong> human capabilities. He believes that with excellent<br />
planning and day-by-day goal setting, almost anything<br />
is possible. He says, “The only way to truly know who<br />
you are is to challenge yourself and push your body and<br />
mind to breaking points. In such circumstances, your<br />
true character, strength, and weakness will be revealed.<br />
This adventure will allow me to see life as it was meant<br />
to be — free, miraculous, and full <strong>of</strong> grandeur.”<br />
At press time, Mario plans to have left Toronto on<br />
November 24, <strong>2015</strong> to travel to Africa for several weeks<br />
<strong>of</strong> training prior to <strong>the</strong> trek’s <strong>of</strong>ficial start. He calculates<br />
that <strong>the</strong> total distance for <strong>the</strong> crossing is 12,000 km.<br />
His intentions are to travel solo, although he welcomes<br />
anyone who would like to join him for short durations.<br />
He expects to be sleeping/eating at <strong>the</strong> welcoming<br />
homes <strong>of</strong> strangers, camping in <strong>the</strong> wild, and staying<br />
with charitable organizations along <strong>the</strong> route.<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> summer, besides working feverishly on<br />
expedition preparations ranging from paperwork to<br />
gear ga<strong>the</strong>ring and testing to contacting schools he<br />
plans to visit along <strong>the</strong> way, Mario, a personal trainer,<br />
also trained his eight clients, six days a week. Just prior<br />
to leaving for Africa, Mario took a training walk from<br />
Toronto to Montreal in 15 days, covering over 550 km<br />
and carrying everything he needed in his pack.<br />
Ask Zemar and she is not surprised at this <strong>the</strong> latest<br />
<strong>of</strong> her son’s goals. He is also an accomplished personal<br />
trainer, pr<strong>of</strong>essional model, talented artist, and skilled<br />
photographer. He is a former semi-pro track and field<br />
athlete who has represented <strong>the</strong> TCI in competitions.<br />
Mario and his bro<strong>the</strong>r Travis were born in Grand<br />
Turk, but lived in Germany as youth. Zemar did move<br />
back to <strong>the</strong> TCI with <strong>the</strong> children, but <strong>the</strong>n emigrated to<br />
Canada. She recalls that Mario always believed in himself,<br />
with her encouragement. “I told him to make sure<br />
he experienced amazing adventures while he is still<br />
young, before he settles down. And he certainly took<br />
me up on that advice!” She adds, “He’s been researching<br />
Africa for years. He wants to be <strong>the</strong> first Caribbean<br />
man to accomplish this heroic feat. I am sure he will<br />
succeed. I plan to meet him in Cairo in 2017!" a<br />
To help Mario reach his funding goal, visit:<br />
https://www.g<strong>of</strong>undme.com/crossingafrica<br />
To track his progress, visit:<br />
https://mariorigby.wordpress.com<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
CONNOLLY KIA MOTORS<br />
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your heart desires. You need something safe and comfortable, yet versatile, dynamic and powerful. Why wait for tomorrow<br />
when you can be <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> a Kia today?<br />
Kia has come a long way in 20 years and continues to set <strong>the</strong> pace as market leader, surpassing its own records and goals<br />
with impressive sales accomplishment and increasing brand awareness and loyalty to its customers.<br />
Connolly Kia Motors is now <strong>the</strong> exclusive distributor in TCI for Kia automobiles that are rapidly becoming <strong>the</strong> best in <strong>the</strong><br />
world. At Connolly Kia we want you to drive in style and comfort and luxury, with <strong>the</strong> right colors inside and outside.<br />
Since <strong>the</strong> 2010 World Cup Edition, Kia has become a proud sponsor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> FIFA World Cup. Kia is also a proud sponsor <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Australian Open as well as <strong>the</strong> NBA. We at Connolly Kia Motors continue to actively contribute to worthy causes, sports<br />
and education here in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. WE believe that this kind <strong>of</strong> support is useful as we seek to fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
deepen our relationships not only with our customers but <strong>the</strong> community alike, whe<strong>the</strong>r through sports or some o<strong>the</strong>r worthwhile<br />
sponsorship.<br />
Our Motto: We lead o<strong>the</strong>rs follow!<br />
Email: Connollymotors@tciway.tc<br />
DentalSum15_Layout Facebook: Connolly 1 5/25/15 Kia Motors 12:09 PM Page 1<br />
Come and see us today at Connolly Kia Motors!<br />
Tropicana Plaza, Leeward Highway<br />
Providenciales , TCI<br />
Tel: (649) 946-5300<br />
World Class Facial<br />
Aes<strong>the</strong>tics & Dentistry<br />
• Botox, Dysport & Facial Fillers<br />
• Dental Cleaning & Whitening<br />
• Dental Implants<br />
• Veneers, Crowns & Bridges<br />
• Invisalign<br />
• Oral Surgery<br />
US & UK qualified with 20+ yrs experience<br />
For full list <strong>of</strong> treatments or to book an appointment go to<br />
www.markosmonddentalclinic.com or call<br />
(649) 432 3777<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 81
shape up<br />
Get fit with PaddleFit<br />
By Morgan Luker, PaddleFit Level 3,<br />
PaddleFit Performance Specialist, WPA Instructor<br />
As adventure sports and wellness reach global<br />
heights, it’s no wonder that fitness is redefining itself<br />
in <strong>the</strong>se sports and adventures. The Hawaiian-born<br />
sport <strong>of</strong> SUP (stand up paddleboarding) has reached an<br />
all-time participation high and so it’s only natural that<br />
a fitness program would evolve to enhance <strong>the</strong> waterperson’s<br />
lifestyle. And let’s call this PADDLEFIT.<br />
PaddleFit is a complete SUP and outdoor fitness<br />
system. The program uses land-based workouts, paddling<br />
technique, and on-water workouts at its core. The<br />
workouts are spent outdoors and on <strong>the</strong> water, taking<br />
advantage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> natural beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
beautiful seas and shores to enhance <strong>the</strong> workout<br />
experience, both physically and mentally.<br />
SURFside Ocean Academy has had extensive training<br />
in various SUP training programs, including weeks<br />
with PaddleFit founder Brody Welte and Californiabased<br />
EXOS. Their coach, Morgan Luker, has earned<br />
<strong>the</strong> accreditation <strong>of</strong> being <strong>the</strong> first PaddleFit coach in<br />
TCI. She also maintains <strong>the</strong> highest level certification<br />
being a PaddleFit Level 3 Coach and SUP Performance<br />
Specialist.<br />
Classes can be water- or land-based, or a combination<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two. All classes <strong>of</strong>fer medium- to<br />
high-intensity training in a boot camp-style set up and<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten integrate o<strong>the</strong>r fitness equipment such as TRX,<br />
IndoBoard, hurdles, and more. This training is fun,<br />
challenging, and rewarding.<br />
Classes are <strong>of</strong>fered at both Grace Bay Club and Blue<br />
Haven Resort with a SUP Sunday Funday every week at<br />
Blue Haven on <strong>the</strong> beach. For more information please<br />
contact SURFside’s PaddleFit Level 3 Coach and SUP<br />
Performance Specialist, Morgan Luker.<br />
In addition to <strong>the</strong> fitness classes, <strong>the</strong>re are technique<br />
classes, performance clinics, and ecotours<br />
available as well. These can be PaddleFit Basic (Intro to<br />
SUP), technique classes for those looking to increase<br />
performance and develop proper SUP skill from a<br />
certified coach, and <strong>the</strong> ecoSUP Tour. Morgan Luker<br />
explains, “It’s easy to pick up a stand up paddleboard<br />
and paddle and just go, but<br />
it’s best to learn proper<br />
stroke technique and safety<br />
in order to maximize your<br />
enjoyment on <strong>the</strong> water, and<br />
minimize injury as well. With<br />
our PaddleFit classes, our goal is for everyone to have<br />
fun and be safe!” See you on <strong>the</strong> water! a<br />
Morgan Luker is SURFside Ocean Academy’s PaddleFit<br />
Level 3 Coach and SUP Performance Specialist. She can<br />
be reached at 649 231 5437 or visit<br />
surfsideoceanacademy.com.<br />
82 www.timespub.tc
shape up<br />
You are what you eat<br />
By Dr. Sam Slattery<br />
The old adage, “You are what you eat,” is absolutely<br />
true. Yet in this era <strong>of</strong> “Good for you” one day and “Bad<br />
for you,” <strong>the</strong> next, how do you know what to eat? C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
is in, now c<strong>of</strong>fee is out. The kaleidoscope <strong>of</strong> dietary<br />
advice is as colourful as <strong>the</strong> packet <strong>of</strong> candies you<br />
are apparently not supposed to eat. From Atkin’s low<br />
carbs, to Paleo’s raw foods, through <strong>the</strong> exotic olive oil<br />
tossed Mediterranean diets and <strong>the</strong> gluten free Wheat<br />
Belly, <strong>the</strong> books and <strong>the</strong>ir contents meander through a<br />
chaotic maze <strong>of</strong> pseudoscience propped up by a cornucopia<br />
<strong>of</strong> scientifically unsupported hypo<strong>the</strong>ses. Yet, “No<br />
smoke without fire,” so let’s see if we can find some<br />
common sense compromise.<br />
Clearly some things are true. A quick inspection<br />
<strong>of</strong> human teeth suggests a balance between <strong>the</strong> sharp<br />
teeth <strong>of</strong> your pet dog (meat eater) and <strong>the</strong> flat grinders<br />
<strong>of</strong> your pet rabbit (plant eater) indicating a simple truth<br />
— Homo sapiens is an omnivore. We are designed to eat<br />
both. An inspection <strong>of</strong> early human habitats demonstrates<br />
a clear indication <strong>of</strong> cooking, <strong>the</strong> invention that<br />
allowed us to spread to every corner and possible place<br />
on <strong>the</strong> planet. So far, so good, we are adaptable.<br />
What is also a truth is that high fructose corn syrup<br />
was not invented until <strong>the</strong> late 1950s and was not<br />
added to food until <strong>the</strong> late 1970s, when <strong>the</strong> current<br />
epidemic <strong>of</strong> obesity, diabetes, and hypertension took<br />
<strong>of</strong>f. Coincidence? I don’t think so. Table sugar consumption<br />
has been rising steadily since 1820 but not<br />
weight — that occurred when we were told in 1980<br />
to cut out fat and <strong>the</strong> food industry added high fructose<br />
corn syrup to everything! They also cut out dietary<br />
fibres, who wants to chew?<br />
So as you enter <strong>the</strong> holiday season, here is my very<br />
simple advice to staying healthy. Turn <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> TV and<br />
throw out <strong>the</strong> processed junk food and drinks. Buy traditional<br />
whole foods, purchase a couple <strong>of</strong> saucepans<br />
and a sharp knife, grab a bottle <strong>of</strong> wine to share with<br />
family and friends, <strong>the</strong>n head to <strong>the</strong> kitchen to cook<br />
some good old-fashioned meals whilst having a good<br />
laugh and sharing <strong>the</strong> stories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year.<br />
And for a New Year’s<br />
resolution, keep going for<br />
<strong>the</strong> whole <strong>of</strong> 20<strong>16</strong>. As for<br />
proportions, 80% fruit and<br />
vegetables, 10% animal products,<br />
and 10% grains. Gift<br />
advice: Michael Pollan’s bestseller, Cooked. Good luck.<br />
a<br />
Dr. Sam Slattery has resided in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos for<br />
27 years. He trained at St Thomas’s Hospital in London,<br />
qualifying in 1984. He is <strong>the</strong> lead physician at Grace<br />
PP Scholarship:Layout Bay Medical Center 1 5/20/13 which has 11:53 <strong>of</strong>fered AM Page Urgent 1 Care<br />
and General Practice for 13 years. He was awarded<br />
his Masters (with Distinction) from London University<br />
in Gastroenterology and Nutrition in November <strong>2015</strong>.<br />
Please visit our website to see why Provo Primary<br />
School can make a difference to a child’s life...<br />
www.provoprimary.com<br />
We have applications from a number <strong>of</strong> new students<br />
requesting financial assistance for <strong>the</strong> upcoming year.<br />
We rely on a scholarship fund to be able to help <strong>the</strong>se<br />
students.<br />
This year we are reaching out to local business and<br />
private donators in order to make this difference, and<br />
help families with hopes <strong>of</strong> educating <strong>the</strong>ir child at our<br />
great school.<br />
Call us at: (649) 441 - 5638<br />
Email: director@provoprimary.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 83
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />
with <strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22 mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total <strong>16</strong>6 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 32,000.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />
airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />
arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />
Airport. American Airlines flies three times daily from<br />
Miami, daily service from Charlotte, and from Philadelphia<br />
on Saturday and Sunday. JetBlue Airways <strong>of</strong>fers daily service<br />
from New York/JFK and Fort Lauderdale, and from<br />
Boston on Saturday. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta<br />
daily and New York/JFK on Saturday. United Airlines travels<br />
from Newark on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and from<br />
Houston on Saturday.<br />
West Jet travels from Toronto on Wednesday and<br />
Saturday. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto on<br />
84 www.timespub.tc
Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. British Airways travels<br />
on Wednesday and Sunday from London/Heathrow via<br />
Antigua.<br />
Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;<br />
Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday, Wednesday,<br />
and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express<br />
travels to Haiti daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic daily (except Wednesday);<br />
to Jamaica on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday,<br />
and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.<br />
(Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> November <strong>2015</strong> and subject<br />
to change.)<br />
Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean<br />
Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea<br />
and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
Time zone<br />
Eastern Standard Time/Daylight Savings Time observed.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 85
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />
left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />
many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />
areas. Scooter, ATV, and bicycle rentals are also available.<br />
Telecommunications<br />
LIME Ltd. provides service on a totally digital 4G network,<br />
including pre-paid phone cards, pre-paid cellular phones,<br />
credit card, and calling card options. Broadband Internet<br />
service, with speeds as fast as 8Mbps, connects <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> to <strong>the</strong> world. Most resorts <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connection and <strong>the</strong>re are several private Internet cafés.<br />
Digicel operates GSM mobile networks, with a full suite <strong>of</strong><br />
4G service. LIME is <strong>the</strong> local carrier for CDMA roaming on<br />
US networks such as Verizon and Sprint. North American<br />
visitors with GSM cellular handsets and wireless accounts<br />
with AT&T or Cingular can arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />
cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />
cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />
Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />
transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for T&C Islanders.<br />
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
Governor, HE Peter Beckingham. He presides over an executive<br />
council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />
PNP Leader Dr. Rufus Ewing is <strong>the</strong> country’s premier.<br />
The legal system is based upon English Common<br />
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
86 www.timespub.tc
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong><br />
salt. Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry,<br />
and fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with<br />
<strong>the</strong> world’s first commercial conch farm operating on<br />
Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />
are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />
Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />
Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />
results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />
clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />
Health Services.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
“Schedule subject to change without prior notice”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 87
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />
and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />
<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />
through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />
Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,<br />
scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />
and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,<br />
and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving<br />
destination. Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an eighteen hole<br />
championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />
thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,<br />
and areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust<br />
provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as<br />
guided tours <strong>of</strong> major historical sites. There is an excellent<br />
national museum on Grand Turk, with a future<br />
branch planned for Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and<br />
a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day<br />
trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />
available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />
centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are<br />
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
88 www.timespub.tc
where to stay<br />
Grand Turk<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
H<br />
The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 <strong>16</strong> • • • • • • • •<br />
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 <strong>16</strong>98 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />
Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •<br />
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />
White Sands Beach Resort – Tel 649 242 1991 • Web whitesandstci.com 130–150 <strong>16</strong> • • • • • • • • •<br />
Middle Caicos<br />
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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •<br />
North Caicos<br />
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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–<strong>16</strong>5 14 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pine Cay<br />
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The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • •<br />
Parrot Cay<br />
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Parrot Cay COMO Resort & Spa - Tel 877 754 0726/649 946 7788 • Web www.parrotcay.como.bz 450–4370 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Providenciales<br />
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Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />
The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />
Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc <strong>16</strong>2–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />
Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />
Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 89
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where to stay<br />
Providenciales (continued)<br />
Reef Residents at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 1<strong>16</strong> • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 <strong>16</strong>5 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sibonné – Tel 800 528 1905/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 946 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Tuscany – Tel 649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanygracebay.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Venetian Grace Bay – Tel 877 277 4793 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />
Venetian Ridge Villas – Tel 649 341 8045 • Web www.VenetianRidgeVillas.com 99–149 <strong>16</strong> • • • • •<br />
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5<strong>16</strong>0 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitc.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />
West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1<strong>16</strong>3 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates US$<br />
(subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
Salt Cay<br />
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc <strong>16</strong>5–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />
The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos<br />
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />
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Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />
Green Globe Certified • Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />
Contemporary Style with Bermudian Influences<br />
This centrally located 4 bedroom/3.5 bathroom executive family home and an additional 1 bedroom/1 bathroom nanny suite is<br />
4,545 square feet <strong>of</strong> open plan Caribbean living with exceptional breezes from its spectacular 75 feet <strong>of</strong> elevation. Located on .85<br />
acres and surrounded by natural trees and vegetation, views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island and Ocean beyond can be enjoyed from every room.<br />
Dee Agingu, Sales Executive<br />
t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.231.3534<br />
dee@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
Offered at $825,000 turksandcaicosSIR.com MLS# 1300629<br />
Anna Richardson, Sales Associate<br />
t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.232.7751<br />
anna@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />
90 www.timespub.tc
dining out – providenciales<br />
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />
cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.<br />
Anacaona — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Elegant beachfront<br />
dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet Euro/Caribbean<br />
cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. Reservations required.<br />
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />
catering. Open daily 6:30 AM to 6 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 946-5807. Casual<br />
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for breakfast,<br />
lunch and dinner. Service indoors, poolside and at beach.<br />
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Carry-out available.<br />
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />
All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Full bar and wine cellar. Indoor or<br />
covered terrace seating above a tropical garden. Open daily for<br />
dinner from 6 PM. Closed Sunday. Private catering available.<br />
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Blue Iguana Grill — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 339-8741. Fun, casual,<br />
Caribbean-style restaurant and bar. Serving lunch and dinner<br />
seven days.<br />
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. The<br />
freshest seafood in Provo, conch prepared to order, rum, buckets<br />
<strong>of</strong> beer, live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Cabana Bar & Grille — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880 x 1104.<br />
Casual island fare, pizza, burgers. Open daily from 7 AM to<br />
9 PM. Tropical cocktails with a spectacular view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />
on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />
Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-<br />
8122. Generous portions <strong>of</strong> local and international fare at<br />
moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.<br />
The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />
Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; something for<br />
everyone. Daily happy hour. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM; Sunday<br />
5 to 9 PM.<br />
Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />
fried chicken, native fare.<br />
Chinson Jade Garden Pastries & Deli — Leeward Highway.<br />
Tel: 941-3533. Caribbean pastries, fresh bakery and Jamaican<br />
and Chinese cuisine. Lunch buffet/take-out. Open Monday to<br />
Saturday, 7 AM to 8 PM; Sunday, 2 PM to 8 PM.<br />
Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian<br />
cuisines–light, healthy and delicious in a beautiful setting. Take-<br />
away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily Noon to 3 PM and<br />
5:30 to 10:30 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />
Serving dinner nightly from 6 PM. Closed Monday.<br />
Corner Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724. Breakfast sandwiches,<br />
specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, soups, salads, gourmet sandwiches<br />
and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to 8:30 PM.<br />
Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.<br />
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended. Catering, special<br />
events, private chef visits.<br />
Crackpot Kitchen — The Village at Grace Bay. Tel: 941-3330.<br />
Experience <strong>the</strong> Island feel, culture and <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines with an International<br />
twist. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Monday.<br />
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />
Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />
Danny Buoy’s Irish Pub — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921.<br />
Traditional Irish cuisine, standard American pub fare; imported<br />
draught beers. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />
Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs for sporting events.<br />
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />
and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily from Noon to 9:30<br />
PM. Bonfire buffet on Sunday evenings. Live music nightly.<br />
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833.<br />
Dine overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open to all for lunch Monday<br />
to Thursday and breakfast from 9 AM on Sunday. Friday Pub<br />
Nights, Saturday BBQ.<br />
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits in <strong>the</strong> Fire Lounge.<br />
South American-meets-Caribbean flavors and spices. Open daily.<br />
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3<strong>16</strong>7. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />
cuisine, from seafood to soup. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet on<br />
Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.<br />
Open daily Noon to 3 PM, 5:30 PM to Midnight. Closed Tuesday.<br />
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Gilley’s Cafe — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472. Burgers, sandwiches,<br />
local food. Full bar. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from 6<br />
PM nightly. Reservations required. Weddings and receptions.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 91
Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-2233.<br />
Internet café, Starbucks® c<strong>of</strong>fee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches,<br />
fresh bakery. Open daily 6 AM to 4 PM.<br />
The Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Casual<br />
oceanfront poolside bistro, serving international bistro fare.<br />
Cool cocktails at <strong>the</strong> swim-up bar. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.<br />
Havana Club — Windsong Resort. Tel: 941-7700. Fine wine,<br />
specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, decadent desserts, with comedy/magic shows<br />
on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and music and sports nights.<br />
Healthy Treats Restaurant & Deli — Touch <strong>of</strong> Class Plaza,<br />
Airport Road. Tel: 241-3318. Native Caribbean dishes, fresh<br />
juices, smoothies. Call to order.<br />
Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />
where <strong>the</strong> locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining<br />
or outdoors on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.<br />
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />
21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />
Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for<br />
steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,<br />
(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.<br />
Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:<br />
332-3388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting<br />
overlooking <strong>the</strong> sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;<br />
Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!<br />
KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />
Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />
under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily 5:30 PM to . . .<br />
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />
Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.<br />
Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Tuesday.<br />
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />
taste <strong>of</strong> Paris in TCI. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />
tapas, nightly dinner specials. Open daily 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Closed Sunday.<br />
Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
941-4487. Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,<br />
croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to<br />
7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />
world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian “comfort<br />
food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made<br />
gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />
bar opens at 4 PM.<br />
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Old favorites in a<br />
new location. Fresh local flavors and seafood, homemade desserts.<br />
Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Set price dinner on weekdays.<br />
Children’s menu. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />
Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.<br />
Carefully crafted selection <strong>of</strong> sumptous and inspired sundaes,<br />
with c<strong>of</strong>fee, champagne and cocktails for <strong>the</strong> grown-ups! Open<br />
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />
Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.<br />
Serving fresh local seafood straight from <strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10<br />
AM to 11 PM.<br />
Noodle Bar + Kitchen — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550.<br />
Delicious rice and noodle dishes and hearty staples with<br />
uniquely Caribbean flavors and spices. Open for lunch and dinner<br />
daily to 9:30 PM.<br />
Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill<br />
International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving<br />
dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor<br />
dining. Conference facility, events, catering.<br />
Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in<br />
a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private<br />
dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.<br />
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />
flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Eric Wood <strong>of</strong>fers<br />
a global palate, interpreted locally. Lobster tank. Seafood raw<br />
bar. Open daily for breakfast and dinner; Sunday Brunch.<br />
Pelican Bay — Royal West Indies Resort. Tel: 941-2365.<br />
Poolside restaurant and bar with French, Caribbean and Asian<br />
fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />
Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront<br />
restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11<br />
PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.<br />
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />
Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local<br />
flair. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,<br />
burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.<br />
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Wednesday to<br />
Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />
72West — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining<br />
with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch<br />
daily; dinner seasonally.<br />
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />
941-5090. Varied menu. Sports bar/game room with slots. Open<br />
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />
92 www.timespub.tc
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees and teas, sandwiches, salads and soup, pastries, as well<br />
as gelato, sorbetto, smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM<br />
to 7 PM.<br />
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 946-5746. Modern<br />
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. Beach bar and grill<br />
open for lunch 11:30 AM to 5 PM daily.<br />
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />
lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-<br />
5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.<br />
Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.<br />
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — New location dockside at Turtle<br />
Cove Inn. Tel: 941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood,<br />
Black Angus beef, pasta, pizzas and fresh fish. Wednesday<br />
chicken or rib special. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Breakfast on<br />
weekends.<br />
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />
Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Serving lunch from<br />
11:30 AM to 2 PM; snacks with wine and drinks from 5:30 PM<br />
and dinner from 7:30 PM daily. Closed on Tuesday.<br />
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. High-end<br />
cuisine and <strong>the</strong> finest wines in an inviting ambiance. Open daily<br />
for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Yoshi’s Japanese Restaurant — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374.<br />
Sushi bar menu plus Wagyu beef, Japanese curries. Open daily<br />
Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel: 342-<br />
2472. Sophistication meets class at <strong>the</strong> new tapas eatery and<br />
entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.<br />
dining out – north caicos<br />
Club Titters — Bottle Creek. Tel: 946-73<strong>16</strong>. Local dishes for<br />
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live music weekends.<br />
Higgs’ Café — Sandy Point Marina. Tel: 242-9426 or 341-9084.<br />
Local cuisine served daily from 7 AM.<br />
Last Chance Bar & Grill Club — Bottle Creek. Tel: 232-4141.<br />
Waterfront dining. American and Caribbean dishes. Open 10:30<br />
AM for breakfast and lunch; dinner by reservation.<br />
Pappa Grunt’s Seafood Restaurant — Whitby Plaza. Tel/fax:<br />
946-7301. Native & American cuisine daily.<br />
Pelican Beach Hotel — Tel: 946-7112. Well known for native<br />
conch, lobster, grouper and snapper dishes.<br />
Silver Palm Restaurant — Whitby. Tel: 946-7113/244-4186.<br />
Local seafood and international cuisine. Home-baked breads<br />
and desserts. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Screened patio.<br />
Super D Café — At airport. Tel: 946-7258. Local dishes.<br />
dining out – south caicos<br />
Eastern Inn Restaurant — Stamers Street. Tel: 946-3301.<br />
Ocean & Beach Resort — Cockburn Harbour. Tel: 946 3219.<br />
Native cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Pond View Restaurant — Tel: 946-3276. Native cuisine.<br />
dining out – middle caicos<br />
Daniel’s Restaurant — Conch Bar. Tel: 245-2298/232-6132.<br />
Local seafood, homemade breads. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Call<br />
ahead for groups and dinner reservations.<br />
dining out – grand turk<br />
Bird Cage Restaurant — Osprey Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-1453.<br />
Full bar & restaurant. Lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Guanahani — Bohio Resort. Tel: 946-2135. Gourmet menu <strong>of</strong><br />
French, Italian and Asian influence with a Caribbean twist. Open<br />
daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />
The Inn Restaurant & Bar — Grand Turk Inn. Tel: 431-0466.<br />
A taste <strong>of</strong> Asian fusions. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />
Closed on Tuesday.<br />
Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville — Grand Turk Cruise Center.<br />
High energy bar and restaurant. Swim-up pool bar and signature<br />
menu <strong>of</strong> grilled favorites.<br />
Sand Bar Restaurant — Manta House Beach. Tel: 946-1111.<br />
Quinessential beach bar serving local seafood specialties. Open<br />
for lunch and dinner, Sunday to Friday.<br />
Secret Garden — Salt Raker Inn. Tel: 946-2260. Local &<br />
American dishes in a garden courtyard. English breakfast.<br />
Weekly BBQ and sing-alongs.<br />
dining out –salt cay<br />
Coral Reef Bar & Grill — Tel: 232-1009. Breakfast, lunch and<br />
dinner daily on <strong>the</strong> beach. Full service bar.<br />
Pat’s Place — Island-style garden restaurant in historic district.<br />
Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Porter’s Island Thyme — Tel: 242-0325. Gourmet island dining<br />
in open air dining room. Full bar. a<br />
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Web: islandautorentals.tc<br />
For Vehicle Rental in<br />
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232 0933 or 946 2042<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 93
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Please allow 30 to 60 days for delivery <strong>of</strong> first issue.<br />
94 www.timespub.tc
TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS
Island Living<br />
beyond <strong>the</strong> extraordinary ...<br />
Sapodilla Bay Estate<br />
THE FINEST COLLECTION<br />
Condominium | Home & Villa | Land<br />
649.946.4474 | info@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />
Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club, The Palms, The Sands<br />
So<strong>the</strong>by’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to So<strong>the</strong>by’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. Each <strong>of</strong>fice is independently owned and operated.