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Times of the Islands Winter 2015-16

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

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TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> NO. 113<br />

OCEAN COUNTRY<br />

A call for hope and action<br />

A VOICE FOR THE ANIMALS<br />

TCSPCA speaks<br />

THE PINE CAY EVOLUTION<br />

Delving into this private island


AT<br />

A luxury condo and villa resort community<br />

The Perfect Combination...<br />

The privacy <strong>of</strong> a luxury villa<br />

The convenience <strong>of</strong> a penthouse<br />

• Located on exclusive Long Bay Beach<br />

• The security <strong>of</strong> a full service resort<br />

• Full access to resort amenities<br />

• The opportunity to earn rental<br />

Villa<br />

income<br />

Frontage<br />

A “10 Best Island Beaches Around <strong>the</strong> World”<br />

- Condé Nast Travellers List<br />

www.TheShoreClubTC.com<br />

“Future Location <strong>of</strong> Villas”<br />

Award winning developer <strong>of</strong> luxury<br />

beachfront condos for over a decade.


THE WORLD’S ONLY<br />

FIVE-STAR<br />

LUXURY<br />

I N C L U D E D ®<br />

R E S O R T S<br />

Enjoy all <strong>the</strong> luxuries <strong>of</strong> a world-class,<br />

five-star resort, except, at Sandals ®<br />

Resorts, everything is included.<br />

Gourmet Discovery Dining at up to <strong>16</strong><br />

restaurants with top chefs from around<br />

<strong>the</strong> world. We’ve raised <strong>the</strong> bar on our<br />

bars, with up to 11 at each resort. Suites<br />

with pools in <strong>the</strong> sky, private Tranquility<br />

Soaking Tubs TM<br />

on <strong>the</strong> terrace, and<br />

butlers to cater to every whim in toptier<br />

suites. Every land and water sport<br />

you can imagine—even scuba diving for<br />

certified divers and golf*. At Sandals,<br />

you really can have it all, because it’s<br />

all included, all unlimited—all <strong>the</strong> time.<br />

LOVE IS ALL YOU NEED<br />

Visit sandals.com,<br />

call 1-888-SANDALS<br />

or your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

Butler Village Honeymoon Romeo & Juliet<br />

Sanctuary 1 Bdrm. Villa Suite w/Private Pool<br />

at Sandals Ochi Beach Resort in Jamaica<br />

ALL INCLUDED, ALL UNLIMITED, ALL THE TIME.<br />

JAMAICA • ANTIGUA • SAINT LUCIA • BAHAMAS • GRENADA • BARBADOS<br />

*Visit www.sandals.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2015</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.


The Leading Private Bank in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Where values are growing<br />

Wealth Management • Bonds/Fixed Income<br />

Investment Strategies • Foreign Exchange<br />

Stocks/Equities • Precious Metals<br />

Fixed deposits/CD’s • International Transfers<br />

Turks & Caicos Banking Company Ltd.<br />

The Regent Village, Unit H102, Grace Bay Road, Providenciales<br />

Tel: +649 941 4994<br />

Email: services@tcbc.tc • www.tcbc.tc<br />

Regulated by <strong>the</strong> Financial Services Commission, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>


The cool side <strong>of</strong> classic.<br />

7 2 W E S T<br />

T H E S P A<br />

P A R A L L E L 2 3<br />

The Palms (formerly Regent Palms) may totally inhabit <strong>the</strong> role <strong>of</strong><br />

an elegant, luxurious, award-winning resort, but beneath that cultivated<br />

exterior beats an untamed heart. Parallel23 sprinkles every dish<br />

with a dash <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unexpected. 72West <strong>of</strong>fers you <strong>the</strong> moon and <strong>the</strong> stars.<br />

Whimsy rules at The Palms Courtyard Shops featuring Wish Boutique.<br />

And your senses are utterly seduced at The Spa at The Palms.<br />

Feel free to visit and indulge your inner wild child in all we have to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />

THE PALMS, LAID -BACK LU XE .<br />

649.946.8666 | <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />

W I S H B O U T I Q U E


contents<br />

Departments<br />

10 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />

15 Getting to Know<br />

From Grand Turk to Grand Cru: Shane Jones<br />

By Trish Flanagan<br />

20 What’s New<br />

A Turks & Caicos Original: Wellington Williams<br />

By Zahrya Musgrove ~ Photos By Davidson Louis<br />

79 Faces & Places<br />

Third Annual Ladies Hat Luncheon<br />

Photos By Paradise Photography<br />

80 Crossing Africa<br />

The Journey Begins<br />

82 Shape Up<br />

Get Fit with PaddleFit<br />

By Morgan Luker<br />

You are What You Eat<br />

By Dr. Sam Slattery<br />

84 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />

89 Where to Stay<br />

91 Dining Out<br />

94 Classified Ads/Subscription Form<br />

Features<br />

36 Ocean Country<br />

Excerpts By Liz Cunningham<br />

46 A Voice for Those Who Cannot Speak<br />

By Kathi Barrington<br />

57 Treasuring Pine Cay<br />

By Sara Kaufman ~<br />

Photos By Paradise Photography<br />

Green Pages<br />

24 No Place Like Home<br />

By Kathy Lockhart, Lily Zhao & Heidi Hertler<br />

28 Green Living in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

By Amy Avenant<br />

30 The Iconic Nassau Grouper<br />

Story & Photos By John Claydon & Marta Calosso<br />

33 Birding in Paradise<br />

By B Naqqi Manco ~ Photo By Eric F. Salamanca<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> NO. 113<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />

Marta Morton is an avid resident photographer,<br />

documenting <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong> since 1998.<br />

This fall, she braved <strong>the</strong> heat and humidity to climb<br />

Jim Hill and shoot this scene overlooking <strong>the</strong> entrance<br />

to South Side Marina and Cooper Jack. Two hours and<br />

500 photos later she was dehydrated and had to head<br />

home to her “day job” <strong>of</strong> running Harbour Club Villas &<br />

Marina, but had captured this stunning image. See her<br />

blog for more at www.myturksandcaicosblog.com.<br />

46<br />

Astrolabe<br />

66 An Unfinished Story<br />

By Dr. Donald H. Keith ~<br />

Photos By Windward Media<br />

72 The Original “Snail Mail”<br />

Story & Photos By Peter Marshall<br />

75 Grand Turk’s Postcard Man<br />

By Sherlin Williams<br />

COURTESY TCSPCA<br />

6 www.timespub.tc


Turks And Caicos Featured<br />

TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Real Estate<br />

Mandalay Villa<br />

Completed in 2012 this one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind estate on sought<br />

after Long Bay Beach sets <strong>the</strong> standard for luxurious<br />

living in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Features include “drivethrough”<br />

gate house, travertine driveway lined by fruit<br />

trees, multi-level infinity pool with central lounge<br />

and waterfalls, Creston smart home technology, and<br />

sumptuous furnishings. There’s nothing like it!<br />

US$15,000,000<br />

North Brae Villa<br />

4BD/4BTH “Spanish-inspired” mansion built on <strong>the</strong><br />

beach in Thompson Cove w/ its own private boat dock.<br />

Exceptional and unique - custom staircases; custom<br />

metal-work; extensive use <strong>of</strong> Brazilian hardwood and<br />

mahogany. It’s all here - formal dining room, “luxury<br />

fitted” kitchen, etc. All centered on <strong>the</strong> infinity pool,<br />

jacuzzi and <strong>the</strong> ocean beyond.<br />

US$2,950,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

cell ~ 649 231 4029 | tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Bernadette is an Irish qualified attorney who<br />

began practicing law in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos in<br />

1997. Working in a general practice she dealt<br />

with conveyancing, immigration, licensing,<br />

company and trust formation and estate<br />

planning. In 2000 she co-founded Turks &<br />

Caicos Property, Ltd. (“TCP”) taking <strong>the</strong> lead<br />

on sales and dividing her time between law<br />

and real estate.<br />

Seven Stars 3 Bedroom<br />

Beachfront suite 1201/02 provides 2,672 sqf <strong>of</strong> luxurious<br />

living space. Granite counters, marbled bathrooms,<br />

travertine flooring and GE Monogram appliances. The<br />

main living areas and master suite enjoy turquoise water<br />

views. The additional bedrooms have a lockout feature<br />

for rental flexibility. Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fabulous Seven Stars<br />

Resort in <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay.<br />

US$1,449,000<br />

Grace Bay Development Site<br />

Right between The Mansions and Villa Renaissance<br />

on Grace Bay. Suitable for condo development (resort<br />

or residential), a boutique hotel or for an estate home.<br />

There is a two storey residential building on <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

portion. A resurgent tourism industry and a busy real<br />

estate market mean <strong>the</strong> timing is now perfect.<br />

US$6,000,000<br />

Villa Renaissance Penthouse<br />

This beautiful 2BR penthouse suite is in pristine<br />

condition. Enjoy direct Grace Bay beach views from<br />

<strong>the</strong> terrace and additional ro<strong>of</strong>top space incorporating<br />

a private jacuzzi and BBQ area. This feature is unique<br />

in <strong>the</strong> development - its like your own a private<br />

spa. If you are searching for <strong>the</strong> ultimate 2 bedroom<br />

suite on Grace Bay this penthouse is a must see.<br />

US$1,545,000<br />

Grace Bay Beach House<br />

5 BR / 4.5 BTH villa w/ pool on an acre <strong>of</strong> Grace<br />

Bay beach. Powdery white sand at your doorstep,<br />

snorkeling on Smith’s Reef, close to Turtle Cove<br />

Marina, restaurants and shops. Dazzling views from<br />

<strong>the</strong> 3rd floor wraparound balcony. Enquire for shortterm<br />

vacation rental earnings info.<br />

US$2,950,000<br />

Bernadette retired from law in 2007 to focus<br />

exclusively on what was already a successful<br />

real estate business. Since <strong>the</strong>n, based on<br />

independent MLS data, she is <strong>the</strong> only TCI<br />

agent with active sales (i.e. introducing <strong>the</strong><br />

buyer) exceeding US$100 million. Her gross<br />

sales figures and transaction numbers are also<br />

unrivalled. This proven level <strong>of</strong> efficiency,<br />

experience and up-to-<strong>the</strong>-minute information<br />

provides a platform for quality service that<br />

you can count on every time.<br />

TCP is <strong>the</strong> leading independent real estate<br />

brokerage in TCI with <strong>of</strong>fices located on<br />

Grace Bay Rd., and at Ocean Club West.<br />

TCP’s reputation and success has been earned<br />

over time through <strong>the</strong> dedication, enthusiasm<br />

and consistent performance <strong>of</strong> Bernadette and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Property team. Bernadette<br />

works 6 days a week from her <strong>of</strong>fices in Grace<br />

Bay and delights in meeting new people and<br />

making new contacts.<br />

Call Bernadette if you would like to find out<br />

a little more about owning real estate in <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Turks & Caicos Property<br />

Boutique real Estate Brokerage


®<br />

Turks Caicos<br />

Resort Villages & Spa<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY<br />

OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD


VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />

ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />

BEACHES ®<br />

Turks & Caicos, <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> true exotics, includes absolutely everything you could think <strong>of</strong> for <strong>the</strong> ultimate<br />

family vacation. A thrilling 45,000 square-foot waterpark with 10 water slides and a surf simulator. Fabulous land and<br />

water sports including unlimited waterskiing and scuba diving*. PADI even named Beaches Resorts one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top<br />

fi ve dive operations in <strong>the</strong> Western Hemisphere. Superb Gourmet Discovery Dining at 21 restaurants, and 14 bars<br />

serving unlimited premium spirits for adults. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic island entertainment for everyone. Cool hangouts for teens<br />

and Sesame Street ® fun and games for <strong>the</strong> kids. Complimentary accredited nannies for all ages, all day and into<br />

<strong>the</strong> night. Beautifully appointed family-sized rooms, suites, and villas, some even with butler service. Take a closer look<br />

at Beaches Turks & Caicos and see why we continue to enjoy an unparalleled record <strong>of</strong> award-winning success.<br />

beaches.com • 1-888-BEACHES • or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/btctimes<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2015</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.


from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />

MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

Marta Morton struck photographic gold again with this amazing shot <strong>of</strong> a group <strong>of</strong> flamingos on Salt Cay. With <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Candy Herwin, she<br />

discovered this flock in an area called North Creek, just past Government House.<br />

Got Yer Back<br />

I remember a time, probably a dozen years ago, when a vicious hurricane was headed towards <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. At <strong>the</strong> last minute it swerved northward, narrowing missing <strong>the</strong> country. The Wea<strong>the</strong>r Channel reporter<br />

quipped, “There must be some praying folks out <strong>the</strong>re.” I think <strong>the</strong>re were. I’ve long believed that <strong>the</strong> backbone <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI’s remarkable good fortune and progress are <strong>the</strong> humble, generous, hopeful women and men who daily call<br />

upon God for <strong>the</strong>ir families, friends, community, government and country, with simple, faith-filled prayers.<br />

These thoughts came to mind when I read Ocean Country, a book excerpted within this issue. With a concept<br />

conceived in <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> book will serve as a powerful call to action for <strong>the</strong> future <strong>of</strong> our planet. The same intention<br />

for positive change echoes in our story about <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA, which has been working to bring a “voice to those who<br />

cannot speak.” And somehow, in spite <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> terrors our world sprouts, <strong>the</strong>re are many young people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

who are doing amazing things. Meet Mario Rigby, who will be crossing Africa by foot with <strong>the</strong> intention <strong>of</strong> sharing<br />

his journey to inspire o<strong>the</strong>rs. Or Shane Jones, who took a passion for wine and turned it into a prestigious career.<br />

Or Wellington Williams, whose determination and entrepreneurship are breaking ground in <strong>the</strong> world <strong>of</strong> crafts and<br />

jewelry. And <strong>the</strong> folks who work for DEMA, <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies, and <strong>the</strong> National Museum, who regularly<br />

use <strong>the</strong>ir skills to conserve TCI’s natural and cultural resources. This cornucopia <strong>of</strong> encouragement says to me that<br />

Someone’s “got our back.”<br />

Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />

10 www.timespub.tc


Visit<br />

THE CAICOS CONCH FARM<br />

WE GROW<br />

CONCH & FISH<br />

Monday - Friday: 9am - 4pm<br />

Saturday: 9am - 2.30pm<br />

Closed: Sundays<br />

Adults $12.00<br />

Children $10.00<br />

Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales<br />

Phone: (649) 946-5330


I do.<br />

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Share your love with <strong>the</strong> ones you love.<br />

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HONEYMOON<br />

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FRIENDS AND THE<br />

HONEYMOON IS<br />

FREE*, TOO!<br />

BESPOKE<br />

Weddings<br />

Beaches Resorts also<br />

<strong>of</strong>fers a fully customizable<br />

destination wedding,<br />

where you can have all<br />

<strong>the</strong> romantic touches <strong>of</strong> a<br />

traditional wedding in <strong>the</strong><br />

most spectacular settings in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Plan every<br />

moment from <strong>the</strong> location<br />

and color palette to <strong>the</strong><br />

cake and music.<br />

It’s <strong>the</strong> day you’ve dreamt <strong>of</strong> your entire life, a day you pictured sharing with <strong>the</strong> people who mean<br />

<strong>the</strong> most to you. At Beaches Resorts, your dream comes true…and keeps going on even after you’ve<br />

exchanged your vows. While you enjoy <strong>the</strong> honeymoon <strong>of</strong> a lifetime, your guests get <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

incredible vacation. And with more included at Beaches, you can do it all—every land and water<br />

sport under <strong>the</strong> sun, Gourmet Discovery Dining at up to 21 restaurants, spacious and luxurious<br />

Toge<strong>the</strong>r Nest Suites for you and <strong>the</strong> family. Of course, you can even choose to do nothing at all.<br />

With more quality inclusions than any o<strong>the</strong>r resorts in <strong>the</strong> world, it’s a celebration everyone can enjoy.


More to do.<br />

Absolutely everything’s included for your honeymoon.<br />

PLUS SPECIAL HONEYMOON TOUCHES INCLUDE*:<br />

A BUBBLY WELCOME A bottle <strong>of</strong> chilled sparkling wine elegantly<br />

arranged in your room upon arrival to toast your future.<br />

A ROMANTIC GESTURE A special turndown service that includes<br />

flower petals on your bed on <strong>the</strong> first evening <strong>of</strong> your honeymoon.<br />

WAKE UP TO WEDDED BLISS Delight in a delivery <strong>of</strong> fresh flowers<br />

and a decadent breakfast in bed one morning <strong>of</strong> your choice.<br />

R e s o r t<br />

s<br />

by Sandals<br />

TURKS & CAICOS • JAMAICA<br />

beaches.com/weddingmoons • 1-877-BEACHES • or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/bchtimes<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2015</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.


SAMSARA IS NOW AVAILABLE FOR<br />

VACATION RENTAL AT www.SAMSARATCI.com<br />

RASHAWDESIGNS.com<br />

TIMES<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

Kathy Borsuk<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Claire Parrish<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

Amy Avenant, Kathi Barrington, Kathy Borsuk, Marta<br />

Calosso, John Claydon, Liz Cunningham, Trish Flanagan,<br />

Heidi Hertler, Sara Kaufman, Dr. Donald H. Keith,<br />

Kathy Lockhart, Morgan Luker, B Naqqi Manco,<br />

Peter Marshall, Zahrya Musgrove, Claire Parrish, Pat Saxton,<br />

Dr. Sam Slattery, Sherlin Williams, Lily Zhao.<br />

Love your home<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

Amy Avenant, Jim Budd, Marta Calosso, John Claydon,<br />

Charlie Costello, Trish Flanagan, David Gallardo–World <strong>of</strong><br />

Oceans, Shane Jones, Kathy Lockhart, Davidson Louis,<br />

Peter Marshall, Marta Morton, Claire Parrish,<br />

Paradise Photography, Eva Ramey, Eric F. Salamanca,<br />

Pat Saxton, School for Field Studies, TCNM Collection,<br />

TCSPCA, Windward Media, Wine & Spirit Education Trust.<br />

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />

Wavey Line Publishing<br />

PRINTING<br />

Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL<br />

AWARD-WINNING CUSTOM HOME DESIGN<br />

Award-winning architecture firm RA Shaw Designs<br />

has created some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most sophisticated and<br />

technologically advanced luxury properties<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Recently voted<br />

“The Best Architecture & Design<br />

Company <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year”<br />

for <strong>the</strong> second consecutive year by Caribbean<br />

World Magazine, our team specializes in creating<br />

a unique sense <strong>of</strong> place by integrating building<br />

techniques and architectural details with <strong>the</strong><br />

surrounding culture so that you too can<br />

love your home.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />

published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />

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No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />

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To learn more, visit us online or call 1.649.941.4394<br />

14 www.timespub.tc


getting to know<br />

JIM BUDD<br />

Grand Turk native Shane Jones was <strong>the</strong> “Red Shirt” for <strong>the</strong> Loire table at <strong>the</strong> <strong>2015</strong><br />

Decanter World Wine Awards.<br />

From Grand Turk to Grand Cru<br />

Meet wine expert Shane Jones.<br />

By Trish Flanagan<br />

We’re being chauffeured through <strong>the</strong> crimson, gold, and russet vineyards <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Champagne region in<br />

France. Think New England fall foliage on a smaller scale. Autumn here is a glorious blaze <strong>of</strong> multi-coloured<br />

fields, as <strong>the</strong> meticulously pruned vines die <strong>of</strong>f after harvest. I’m in <strong>the</strong> company <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk native and<br />

wine expert Shane Jones. He’s <strong>the</strong> holder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prized Moet and Chandon scholarship for top marks in <strong>the</strong><br />

sparkling wines’ exam <strong>of</strong> his diploma. A trip to two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s top Champagne houses is his reward. So<br />

how did this Turks & Caicos Islander find himself in <strong>the</strong> rarefied world <strong>of</strong> wine expertise?<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 15


Born in Grand Turk in 1978 to Hattie Francis and<br />

William Jones, Shane enjoyed a happy childhood in<br />

Overback, where his mo<strong>the</strong>r ran a small sweet and rum<br />

shop. He went on to H.J. Robinson High School where he<br />

came into his own. In fact his time <strong>the</strong>re led to his first<br />

introduction to Europe. “I was part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> debating team<br />

and I played clarinet in <strong>the</strong> marching band. I was also a<br />

member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scouts and travelled to <strong>the</strong> World Scout<br />

Jamboree in Holland in 1995,” he recalls.<br />

Always top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> class, he became Valedictorian. But<br />

his ambitions weren’t clear. “I didn’t have a strong career<br />

path as I was able to do a lots <strong>of</strong> things. My fa<strong>the</strong>r wanted<br />

me to be a lawyer but I wasn’t interested. Instead I took a<br />

gap year and worked at Radio Turks & Caicos.”<br />

He may <strong>the</strong>n have been unclear about his future<br />

career, but what’s obvious now is his extensive knowledge<br />

<strong>of</strong> wines. We’re at <strong>the</strong> splendid 18th century house,<br />

Le Trianon at Éparnay, with Yumi Laforge, Moet and<br />

Chandon’s Maison Ambassador. Originally <strong>the</strong> home <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Moet family, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> Chandon family, <strong>the</strong> house<br />

hosted Napoleon Bonaparte on several occasions. After<br />

an aperitif <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s most popular Champagne,<br />

Moet’s Brut Imperial, in a beautifully decorated and mirrored<br />

salon, we’re guided to <strong>the</strong> library for lunch. Yumi<br />

and Shane begin an intense discussion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> merits <strong>of</strong><br />

three rosé Champagnes which will accompany our food.<br />

It’s a long way from <strong>the</strong> library <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> West Indies in Barbados, from where Shane graduated<br />

in 1999 with a joint Economics/Accounting<br />

Honours Degree. Returning to Grand Turk he joined <strong>the</strong><br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Economics and Statistics. “It was a broadbased<br />

experience focusing on project management,<br />

helping departments budget for major capital projects<br />

and preparing submissions for EU, UN, and Caricom funding.”<br />

After only a year he was approached to head up <strong>the</strong><br />

Land Registry, where as Registrar <strong>of</strong> Lands he oversaw <strong>the</strong><br />

transfer <strong>of</strong> all properties, registration <strong>of</strong> charges, collection<br />

<strong>of</strong> stamp duties, and fees.<br />

He brings <strong>the</strong> same attention to detail from that job<br />

to his new role. Shane has a particular interest in rosé<br />

or pink Champagne, whose popularity is increasing,<br />

although it’s still not taken seriously by many pr<strong>of</strong>essionals.<br />

“Traditionally it was seen as a trivial drink for giggling<br />

girls, but if it’s aged impeccably and matched properly it<br />

can stand up to serious food,” he emphasises.<br />

The rosé Champagnes to complement lunch are from<br />

1985, 1999, and 2006. Shane explains <strong>the</strong> difference to<br />

me. “The younger ones are more accessible to unexperienced<br />

palates beause <strong>the</strong> black fruit notes are obvious<br />

From top: Shane Jones is enjoying lunch at Moet and Chandon’s Le<br />

Trianon residence. The gardens at Le Trianon are shown below. The<br />

trip is part <strong>of</strong> Shane’s Moet & Chandon scholarship that he won from<br />

<strong>the</strong> Wine & Spirits Education Trust.<br />

— plum, blackberries, and dark cherries. The older ones<br />

are more complex, and <strong>the</strong> terminology changes. For<br />

example, flavours may be described in “game” terms. It’s<br />

more difficult to assess, especially if people are unfamil-<br />

TRISH FLANAGAN SHANE JONES WINE & SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST<br />

<strong>16</strong> www.timespub.tc


iar with shooting wild fowl, and hanging it to intensify <strong>the</strong><br />

flavour,” he explains.<br />

It wasn’t a straight transition from Registrar to wine<br />

educator. In 2003 Shane took a postgraduate course in<br />

property valuations in <strong>the</strong> UK. As a high achiever, Cass<br />

Business School (part <strong>of</strong> London City University) was his<br />

first choice. “It was <strong>the</strong> leading institution in <strong>the</strong> area, and<br />

I felt that <strong>the</strong> education would be a way <strong>of</strong> building on<br />

<strong>the</strong> practical experience. The plan was to go back to <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos.”<br />

However <strong>the</strong> plan changed after two years in London,<br />

when he realised that he had <strong>the</strong> opportunity to add international<br />

experience to his CV. He worked for a number <strong>of</strong><br />

property companies, advising international clients on luxury<br />

property investments in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, France, and<br />

Croatia. Travelling through Europe he had <strong>the</strong> opportunity<br />

to visit vineyards and taste wine.<br />

But his first experience <strong>of</strong> wine bore no resemblance<br />

to our tastings at Le Trianon. “It was some time in <strong>the</strong><br />

1980s and it would have been a fruit wine, or a gallon<br />

container <strong>of</strong> an American brand like Gallo or Paul Mason.<br />

I can’t remember my first taste <strong>of</strong> wine or how old I was<br />

at <strong>the</strong> time, or even that I was immediately taken by it.”<br />

He only started to take wine seriously when he was work-<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 17


Here, Shane is shown “nosing” a glass <strong>of</strong> wine. When smelling a wine,<br />

<strong>the</strong> taster dips <strong>the</strong>ir nose into <strong>the</strong> upper portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine glass and<br />

brea<strong>the</strong>s in <strong>the</strong> aromas coming <strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine.<br />

ing in <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> London in 2007. Bishopsgate Institute<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered an introductory course, which he took during his<br />

Friday lunch breaks.<br />

His passion is obvious as he and Yumi discuss <strong>the</strong><br />

finer points <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Champagne and food pairings at lunch.<br />

According to Shane <strong>the</strong> intensity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine matches <strong>the</strong><br />

food perfectly, and <strong>the</strong> savoury flavours are drawn out.<br />

The 2006 is served with red mullet; <strong>the</strong> black truffle ravioli<br />

blends beautifully with <strong>the</strong> 1985 vintage; and <strong>the</strong> 1999<br />

is paired with <strong>the</strong> lamb, which has been slow-cooked for<br />

seven hours. Shane’s mo<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> late Miss Hattie, a great<br />

cook, was famed for her buds and rice, and souse. He<br />

understands and appreciates good food.<br />

His ease with his subject is down to a combination<br />

<strong>of</strong> experience and knowledge. In January 2012 Shane<br />

signed up for his first pr<strong>of</strong>essional wine course, <strong>the</strong> Level<br />

3 Certificate in Wines and Spirits at <strong>the</strong> Wines and Spirits<br />

Education Trust (WSET), a leading global provider <strong>of</strong> wine<br />

education. “I learned how to taste properly, to match<br />

food and wine. The main focus was an introduction to <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s major wine regions. We tasted everything from<br />

around <strong>the</strong> world,” he says.<br />

He passed with distinction and won <strong>the</strong> top scholarship<br />

— <strong>the</strong> Vintners’ Bursary — which awarded him a<br />

travel bursary to visit any wine region <strong>of</strong> his choice. He<br />

spent ten days in <strong>the</strong> Ahr Valley, Germany to increase his<br />

understanding <strong>of</strong> Pinot Noir wine.<br />

The diploma was <strong>the</strong> next step and was more challenging.<br />

“It was about being more critical. You form an<br />

opinion and have to defend it. It helps to understand<br />

wine’s quality and au<strong>the</strong>nticity. There’s more independent<br />

study, attending trade events, and reading trade<br />

publications. You have to know what’s happening in <strong>the</strong><br />

marketplace to prepare you for understanding <strong>the</strong> business<br />

better.” Shane achieved a Merit in <strong>the</strong> diploma — <strong>the</strong><br />

first Turks Islander to hold such a qualification. He also<br />

won <strong>the</strong> Moet and Chandon scholarship, which is what<br />

has brought us to France.<br />

The WSET qualification has opened up lots <strong>of</strong> career<br />

options for him. Diploma-holders work in <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fices<br />

<strong>of</strong> wine importers and manage portfolios <strong>of</strong> producers<br />

from around <strong>the</strong> world, ensuring representation in leading<br />

bars and restaurants. They also work as journalists,<br />

brand ambassadors, marketers, and auctioneers in auction<br />

house like Christie’s.<br />

To build up his knowledge and experience, Shane<br />

worked in wine retail at Oddbins, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest high<br />

street wine retailers in <strong>the</strong> UK, Decanter magazine (<strong>the</strong><br />

only UK consumer wine magazine), and various annual<br />

fine wine encounters. He has hosted tastings at <strong>the</strong> multinational<br />

British retailer, Marks and Spencer, and he also<br />

spent time at Vinopolis, <strong>the</strong> consumer wine destination<br />

in London, providing memorable consumer experiences,<br />

like matching chocolate or cheese with wine. One <strong>of</strong> his<br />

career highlights was hosting Champagne master classes<br />

on <strong>the</strong> iconic tourist destination, <strong>the</strong> London Eye. He’d<br />

recommend it to anyone living in, or visiting London.<br />

“It’s about enjoying an amazing drink while looking at an<br />

amazing city. Whenever I hosted it I just felt really lucky.”<br />

Through <strong>the</strong> wide range <strong>of</strong> work experiences he<br />

discovered his real passion was education. Wine is a subject<br />

he loves — he wants to get people to enjoy it also.<br />

“Teaching brings people toge<strong>the</strong>r from different backgrounds<br />

who want to understand a little bit more about<br />

this fantastic drink. It’s great to see people go on a journey<br />

and enjoy it. You feel so good when people take a<br />

shine to <strong>the</strong> subject.”<br />

Shane takes a particular shine to sparkling wines. “I<br />

bought my first case <strong>of</strong> Champagne in Grand Turk over<br />

15 years ago — I knew I liked it but it was years later<br />

that I made <strong>the</strong> effort to understand it better. The bubbles<br />

make it stand apart from anything else and it can<br />

be many different things — Champagne, cava, prosecco.<br />

I love <strong>the</strong> taste <strong>of</strong> it.” He enjoys quizzing winemaker,<br />

Pierre Casenave, at <strong>the</strong> Veuve Cliquot house in Rheims,<br />

about <strong>the</strong> technicalities <strong>of</strong> blending red and white wines<br />

for <strong>the</strong> perfect rosé composition. Afterwards we compare<br />

non-vintage and 2004 Veuve rosé Champagnes under<br />

<strong>the</strong> guidance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> charming Hospitality Manager and<br />

Ambassador Maison, Camille Berdin.<br />

18 www.timespub.tc


POC15-<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island 3 7-<strong>16</strong> x 6 3-8 Ad FNL 111215.pdf 1 15-11-<br />

Our tours <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cellars in <strong>the</strong> Moet and Veuve houses<br />

are an insight into <strong>the</strong> journey a bottle <strong>of</strong> wine takes to<br />

maturity. Moet’s cellars, <strong>the</strong> largest in <strong>the</strong> region, were<br />

carved out in <strong>the</strong> 17th and 18th centuries. They’re over<br />

17 miles long. It’s a romantic experience to walk through,<br />

and imagine <strong>the</strong> various processes being done by candlelight,<br />

before electrification. “I like to think <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong><br />

delicious Champagne being stored in waiting. It’s like a<br />

caterpillar transforming into a butterfly. The yeast sediment<br />

is removed, it’s bottled and labelled. The bottle<br />

<strong>the</strong>n takes <strong>of</strong>f as an adult to be enjoyed in ano<strong>the</strong>r part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world,” Shane enthuses.<br />

For someone who’s new to wine he recommends<br />

sparkling wines because that’s what he loves. But he’s<br />

quick to point out that everyone has a different reaction<br />

to wine when <strong>the</strong>y taste it. Shane’s most memorable<br />

reaction was to a Dom Perignon 1996 Champagne, at a<br />

Decanter magazine fine wine experience. “It was exhilarating<br />

and very overwhelming but so pleasurable. I can<br />

still taste <strong>the</strong> intensity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wine. If I think <strong>of</strong> that wine<br />

I can taste it.” Dom Perignon is <strong>the</strong> Benedictine monk<br />

remembered in legend as <strong>the</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Champagne. We<br />

enjoy a glass <strong>of</strong> a 2006 Dom Perignon vintage, after <strong>the</strong><br />

Moet cellar tour.<br />

So how would he like to bring his knowledge and<br />

experience to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos? He says <strong>the</strong> wine scene<br />

is much better than when he was young, especially with<br />

people travelling more widely. But he’d still like to educate<br />

people to see how a local dish can be improved<br />

with wine. He’d also to train people directly involved in<br />

<strong>of</strong>fering wine to o<strong>the</strong>rs to do it in a better way, a more<br />

enthusiastic way. “It’s about educating customers and<br />

staff — from opening a bottle <strong>of</strong> wine to having <strong>the</strong> confidence<br />

to encourage a diner to be more adventurous,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n that customer stepping outside <strong>the</strong>ir comfort<br />

zone when ordering.”<br />

As we leave <strong>the</strong> Champagne region behind, I feel I’ve<br />

been given <strong>the</strong> confidence to be a little more adventurous<br />

in my taste. I’ve been lucky to be taken on a journey <strong>of</strong><br />

discovery with such a skilled and passionate wine expert<br />

as Shane. I also like to imagine that many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bottles<br />

<strong>of</strong> Champagne we saw in those French cellars will take<br />

flight, and be enjoyed in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. a<br />

Shane Jones’ wine experiences are available in London,<br />

UK and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. They include private and corporate<br />

tastings, introductory courses, workshops, and<br />

intensive training sessions. He may be contacted by email<br />

at shanedj@hotmail.com or on Twitter - @shane_d_jones<br />

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649.941.7555 | exhalespa.com | gansevoorttc.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 19


what’s new<br />

CLAIRE PARRISH<br />

Opposite page: Amber Hall, Miss Teen Turks & Caicos <strong>2015</strong>, models a selection <strong>of</strong> Wellington Williams’ original creations.<br />

Above: This is Wellington Williams in his downtown Provo workshop, where he lets loose his creativity!<br />

A Turks & Caicos Original<br />

Wellington Williams creates unique jewelry inspired by <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

By Zahrya Musgrove ~ Photos By Davidson Louis<br />

It’s not always easy being a young man or woman trying to get a business started in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. Besides a good idea and business plan, you need money . . . contacts . . . influence . . . time. That’s<br />

why we’re so impressed with 19 year old Wellington Williams. Not only is his handmade jewelry elegant and<br />

creative, reflecting <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s seas, but he has a determination that spreads to <strong>the</strong> horizon!<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 21


POC13-<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island 3 7-<strong>16</strong> x 6 3-8 Ad2 FNL.pdf 1 13-11-12 10:50 AM<br />

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Six one-bedroom villas.<br />

Dive operators at our dock<br />

Bonefishing in <strong>the</strong> lake.<br />

Fabulous beaches nearby.<br />

Ideal for couples or groups.<br />

Trip Advisor<br />

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Awards Winner<br />

E: harbourclub@tciway.tc<br />

T: 1 649 941 5748<br />

See our website<br />

for details<br />

www.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.com<br />

Wellington Williams began his journey <strong>of</strong> becoming<br />

an entrepreneur at <strong>the</strong> very young age <strong>of</strong> eleven. It all<br />

started at Clement Howell High School in Providenciales<br />

when he began to sell Rastafarian jewelry to his fellow<br />

students. He quickly noticed that this was a very pr<strong>of</strong>itable<br />

business. From <strong>the</strong>n on, he took it on as a passion.<br />

After graduation, he went to <strong>the</strong> TCI Community College<br />

to study Hotel Management. From <strong>the</strong>re, he began<br />

his own business called Exclusive Accessories.co by Wellington<br />

Williams. Now he sells his work weekly at <strong>the</strong> Island<br />

Fish Fry and caters to fourteen different hotels and<br />

stores, including <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk cruise ship centre.<br />

Wellington said he picked <strong>the</strong> name Exclusive Accessories.co<br />

by Wellington Williams because his products<br />

are exclusive and he wanted a name that was unique.<br />

He choose jewelry-making as a business because it is<br />

something that he enjoys doing and it makes a pr<strong>of</strong>it.<br />

When asked about how he makes his jewelry, he was a bit<br />

close-mou<strong>the</strong>d, saying that it is a secret! But he did tell<br />

me what he uses: real starfish, sand, and seashells, along<br />

with a special construction liquid and thyme!<br />

Wellington says <strong>the</strong> next big project for his company<br />

is clothing. He wants to make clothing that showcases<br />

pieces and scenarios <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, utilizing such<br />

objects as <strong>the</strong> conch shell. In ten years time, Williams<br />

sees himself as a store owner with a variety <strong>of</strong> selections<br />

that will range from spa products, Christmas ornaments,<br />

clothing, and <strong>of</strong> course, jewelry.<br />

Although he currently works as a concierge/guest<br />

services agent at West Bay Club, Wellington comments,<br />

“They say it is always better when you work for yourself.”<br />

“It means that you don’t have to follow company rules,<br />

wear a uniform, work by a clock, and you are not getting<br />

<strong>the</strong> same salary every two weeks. You are <strong>the</strong> one cutting<br />

<strong>the</strong> checks, you keep all <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>its for yourself, you decide<br />

your attire, and work on your own time. You are in<br />

control <strong>of</strong> what you do.”<br />

He told me that one <strong>of</strong> his biggest challenges was<br />

when he asked to join a jewelry-making company in <strong>the</strong><br />

Young Enterprise program, but he was turned down by<br />

<strong>the</strong> owners. At <strong>the</strong> time he thought it was a bad thing<br />

but now he sees that without that decision, he may never<br />

have started his own company. A boost to his confidence<br />

came when <strong>the</strong> company that he did join won “Company<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year” honors. He now thanks <strong>the</strong> people who<br />

turned him down because it spurred him towards becoming<br />

a successful entrepreneur.<br />

Wellington said that he still faced <strong>the</strong> challenge <strong>of</strong><br />

getting people to let him sell his product in <strong>the</strong>ir stores<br />

22 www.timespub.tc


BH_<strong>Times</strong><strong>of</strong>Island<strong>2015</strong>.qxp_BH_timesisland 11/<strong>16</strong>/15 13:17 Page 2<br />

e x e c u t i v e c h e f<br />

c r i s t i a n r e bol l edo<br />

kitch en 2 18<br />

W W W . B E A C H H O U S E T C I . C O M<br />

6 4 9 . 9 4 6 . 5 8 0 0<br />

This sampling <strong>of</strong> Exclusive Accessories by Wellington Williams shows<br />

<strong>the</strong> fine craftsmanship and strong marine influence.<br />

and boutiques. He explained, “People were not willing to<br />

take a chance on me.” He was competing against o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

jewelry-makers as well as “Made in China” products. He<br />

expressed his concern that tourists would ra<strong>the</strong>r buy ten<br />

$3 bracelets to take home ra<strong>the</strong>r than one $30 bracelet.<br />

He overcame this challenge by advertising his product<br />

better. He also reassured buyers and store owners<br />

that, although his products may be slightly more expensive,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are <strong>of</strong> a better quality and <strong>the</strong>refore worth<br />

every dollar. Their uniqueness and appeal comes from<br />

being handmade in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

After all <strong>of</strong> his trial and error he now sees that everything<br />

happened for a reason and that it has all worked<br />

out for <strong>the</strong> best. He wants to tell young and upcoming<br />

entrepreneurs to never give up because in <strong>the</strong> end <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is a reward for all <strong>of</strong> your hard work. a<br />

Zahrya Musgrove is a fourteen year old student <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

British West Indies Collegiate. Her dream is to go into<br />

a career field, such as journalism, where she can be a<br />

brave and confident voice expressing thoughts in <strong>the</strong><br />

form <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> written word on current issues.<br />

THE<br />

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Cakes &<br />

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for special<br />

occasions<br />

Call Adele on 231-1898 • See The Cake Lady on<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 23


green pages<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc<br />

The Spiny lobster uses reef structure for habitat as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir adult phase.<br />

No Place Like Home<br />

South Caicos is <strong>the</strong> base for monitoring <strong>the</strong> Spiny lobster.<br />

By Kathy Lockhart, M.S., Lily Zhao and Heidi Hertler, Ph.D.,<br />

School for Field Studies, Center for Marine Resource Studies<br />

“Beautiful by Nature” has defined <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> for many years. While pristine coral reefs,<br />

abundant megafauna, and a unique cultural heritage may be <strong>the</strong> first beauties that come to mind, one<br />

should not overlook local fisheries that provide economic stability and community cohesion. In fact,<br />

beauty may be in <strong>the</strong> eye <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> beholder, as many persons would agree that <strong>the</strong> Panulirus argus (spiny<br />

lobster) is not <strong>the</strong> most attractive organism to look at, but is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most economically sought species<br />

in <strong>the</strong> TCI. The country’s three main commercial fisheries include: spiny lobster, queen conch, and<br />

fin-fish. Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se fisheries is supported by <strong>the</strong> diverse marine environment surrounding <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

including sand flats, mangrove forest, sea grass beds, and fringing reefs.<br />

24 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

South Caicos (coined <strong>the</strong> “Big South” during its reign<br />

as <strong>the</strong> epicenter <strong>of</strong> TCI’s salt industry), is <strong>the</strong> fishing capital<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In recent history, conch<br />

and lobster have replaced salt as <strong>the</strong> economic driver<br />

<strong>of</strong> South Caicos. Seventy percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population is<br />

involved in <strong>the</strong> commercial fisheries and ei<strong>the</strong>r directly or<br />

indirectly depends upon <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong>ir livelihood.<br />

The spiny lobster is a crustacean (a group <strong>of</strong> organisms<br />

with segmented bodies and exoskeletons which <strong>the</strong>y<br />

must molt to grow) that lives in <strong>the</strong> shallow clear waters <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Banks. The lobster has been used as a<br />

source <strong>of</strong> protein since <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s<br />

first indigenous people, as early as 750 A.D. The importance<br />

<strong>of</strong> this species to <strong>the</strong> economy has grown as both<br />

tourism and international trade, particularly with regards<br />

to <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />

Fishing methods have developed over <strong>the</strong> years with<br />

more sophisticated techniques and preservation <strong>of</strong> final<br />

products. In <strong>the</strong> mid-1950s, <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster were captured<br />

with “bully nets” or <strong>the</strong> “toss”, which snared <strong>the</strong><br />

lobster and pulled <strong>the</strong>m from <strong>the</strong>ir dens. Fishermen <strong>the</strong>n<br />

threw <strong>the</strong> lobster into a waiting vessel. Today, fishermen<br />

free-dive with mask, fins, and snorkel to depths <strong>of</strong> more<br />

than 40 feet and “hook” lobster, <strong>the</strong>n return to <strong>the</strong> boat<br />

and continue <strong>the</strong> tradition <strong>of</strong> throwing <strong>the</strong> catch into <strong>the</strong><br />

waiting vessel. These free-diving activities now account for<br />

approximately 95% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fishing activity for <strong>the</strong> species,<br />

with traps and artificial habitats making up <strong>the</strong> remaining<br />

5%.<br />

The commercial lobster industry has grown since <strong>the</strong><br />

1970s with <strong>the</strong> introduction <strong>of</strong> freezer technology and<br />

more advanced preservation techniques. With an ever<br />

increasing local tourism market, spiny lobsters are being<br />

sought for not only <strong>the</strong> export market, but local cuisine. It<br />

is now that <strong>the</strong> need for sustainable stocks is most important<br />

for economy and <strong>the</strong> preservation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species.<br />

The TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Environment and Maritime<br />

Affairs (DEMA) monitor <strong>the</strong> species and <strong>the</strong> commercial<br />

landings, as <strong>the</strong> fishery does not belong to only <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI. As with many species, spiny lobsters practice larval<br />

dispersal. As <strong>the</strong> eggs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster are released<br />

From top: The spiny lobster is commercially landed at <strong>the</strong> processing<br />

facility on South Caicos.<br />

This map shows <strong>the</strong> dispersal <strong>of</strong> spiny lobster larvae in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean<br />

region.<br />

This is a diagram <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life cycle for <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster.<br />

EVA RAMEY WWW.1YACHTUS.COM INSTITUTE OF MARINE RESEARCH<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 25


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

and transformed into transparent larvae, <strong>the</strong>y are carried<br />

hundreds <strong>of</strong> miles in ocean currents. For example, it is<br />

possible that lobsters landed in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas originally<br />

hatched in Turks & Caicos waters. Countries wishing to<br />

monitor local stocks must determine what stocks <strong>the</strong>y will<br />

consider local or “home.”<br />

Although spiny lobster stock assessments and factors<br />

affecting recruitment success have been studied elsewhere<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, resource management plans are<br />

most successful when local human and ecological pressures<br />

have been taken into consideration. For example,<br />

<strong>the</strong> growth rate and frequency <strong>of</strong> molt for spiny lobster<br />

are dependent upon water temperature, food availability,<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r environmental factors that change depending<br />

on location. Including <strong>the</strong>se parameters in a monitoring<br />

program help to understand <strong>the</strong> success (and sometimes<br />

failure) <strong>of</strong> a stock.<br />

With most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> commercial catch being landed on<br />

South Caicos, an opportunity exists to monitor this species<br />

more closely. So in <strong>the</strong> early 1990s, DEMA (previously<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Environment and Coastal Resources DECR)<br />

increased its monitoring <strong>of</strong> individual lobster at <strong>the</strong> commercial<br />

landing sites in South Caicos.<br />

As with many small nations, resources are <strong>of</strong>ten limited<br />

and as part <strong>of</strong> an ongoing collaboration between<br />

<strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource<br />

Studies (SFS CMRS) and DEMA, <strong>the</strong> school has been able<br />

to provide assistance with data collection. In 2014, CMRS<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong>ir assistance to consistently collect valuable<br />

information that may help to describe what is happening<br />

with <strong>the</strong> local spiny lobster stock and assist <strong>the</strong> stakeholders<br />

with open discussions about <strong>the</strong> fishery. Several<br />

South Caicos commercial processors and fishermen have<br />

volunteered to work in collaboration with SFS to ga<strong>the</strong>r<br />

information.<br />

SFS CMRS staff and students visit local processing<br />

facilities where <strong>the</strong>y take multiple samples <strong>of</strong> lobster.<br />

DEMA, given <strong>the</strong> mandate <strong>of</strong> natural resource protection<br />

and management, became accountable for collection<br />

and monitoring this species and has more than 35 years<br />

<strong>of</strong> continuous commercial catch data. Commercial landings<br />

have oscillated over <strong>the</strong> years with highs in 2006<br />

(446.4 MT) to lows <strong>of</strong> <strong>16</strong>0.1 MT in 2008, with an average<br />

<strong>of</strong> 279.2 MT over <strong>the</strong> past ten years. Stakeholders, fishermen,<br />

processors, and government <strong>of</strong>ficials are aware<br />

that catch data do not provide enough information on <strong>the</strong><br />

status and sustainability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species. Catch per Unit<br />

Effort (CPUE) not only accounts for weight, but effort put<br />

forth by fisher to capture <strong>the</strong> product (boat-days). CPUE<br />

provides a more accurate indication on <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

species with regards to <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> effort placed on <strong>the</strong><br />

species. CPUE has risen and fallen, but <strong>the</strong> overall trend<br />

for <strong>the</strong> past ten years is declining.<br />

SFS staff and students both measure and weigh samples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spiny<br />

lobster at processing facilities in South Caicos.<br />

KATHY LOCKHART<br />

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green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

As each vessel enters <strong>the</strong> weighing station, a sub-sample<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> catch is collected. Each individual is weighed,<br />

measured by carapace length, and sex, sexual maturity,<br />

molting stage, and reproductive stage are determined.<br />

Fishers are asked where <strong>the</strong>y captured most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

product and at what depth. The data is provided to all<br />

stakeholders. This in turns acts like a “springboard” for<br />

open discussions between TCI Government, fishers and<br />

processing operators.<br />

In addition to assisting DEMA with commercial catch<br />

information on <strong>the</strong> spiny lobster, SFS has also monitored<br />

juvenile recruitment that is independent <strong>of</strong> commercial<br />

catches. After extensive evaluation, one site near South<br />

Caicos was selected for <strong>the</strong> study. Here, ten juvenile<br />

lobster “condos” have been deployed since 2008 and<br />

monitored for numbers <strong>of</strong> juveniles to recruit to <strong>the</strong>se<br />

condos. The habitat for this location is that <strong>of</strong> Larencia<br />

sp., an alga in which juvenile lobsters find safety from<br />

predators and an available supply <strong>of</strong> food.<br />

Once a month, SFS CMRS staff and students visit <strong>the</strong><br />

“condos” and collect all juvenile lobster. Individuals are<br />

measured for carapace length, sex, and stage <strong>of</strong> molting.<br />

These lobsters are <strong>the</strong>n released to continue <strong>the</strong>ir growth<br />

and progression into <strong>the</strong> fishery. This information can<br />

be used with commercial catch data for comparison and<br />

potential predictions <strong>of</strong> future commercial catches.<br />

Fishing industries are <strong>of</strong>ten prime illustrations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

universal push-and-pull between economic and preservation<br />

interests. While maintaining this delicate balance<br />

is still difficult for <strong>the</strong> TCI spiny lobster, South Caicos<br />

stakeholders have assembled <strong>the</strong> collaboration needed to<br />

monitor, predict, and <strong>the</strong>reby mitigate potential declines<br />

in spiny lobster stock and recruitment levels. Continued<br />

collaboration between economic and ecological interests<br />

will lead to mutually beneficial marine management<br />

strategies for TCI fisheries. With increasing stakeholder<br />

involvement, DEMA guidance, and research support from<br />

<strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies, we can be proactive to protect<br />

<strong>the</strong>se economically important species. a<br />

The School for Field Studies (SFS) is a US-based academic<br />

institution that provides multidisciplinary, field-based<br />

environmental study abroad opportunities to undergraduate<br />

university students. Each SFS program (nine in total)<br />

highlights a different region <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, with its own<br />

distinct cultural and ecological characteristics and unique<br />

From top: SFS interns collect juvenile lobsters from “condos,” measure<br />

<strong>the</strong>m as part <strong>of</strong> faculty’s ongoing research, <strong>the</strong>n release <strong>the</strong>m<br />

back into <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

environmental challenges. Faculty and students at <strong>the</strong> SFS<br />

CMRS on South Caicos work in close cooperation with local<br />

partners including <strong>the</strong> TCI’s Department <strong>of</strong> Environment<br />

and Maritime Affairs (DEMA), TCReef Inc. (www.tcreef.<br />

org), and local fishermen and processing plants to protect<br />

and enhance <strong>the</strong> management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island’s coral reefs<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r marine resources. To learn more, go to www.<br />

fieldstudies.org/tci. a<br />

KATHY LOCKHART EVA RAMEY SCHOOL FOR FIELD STUDIES<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 27


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Green Living in <strong>the</strong> TCI:<br />

15 steps you can adopt to make a change!<br />

By Amy Avenant, DEMA Environment Outreach Coordinator<br />

“Green Living.” We hear <strong>the</strong> term thrown around on television,<br />

radio, and social media sites, but what exactly<br />

does it mean and how can you start “living green?” In<br />

laymen’s terms, living green and sustainably means<br />

creating a lifestyle that works with nature and does<br />

no long-term or irreversible damage to any part <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> environmental web. This is <strong>the</strong> ideal, but do not<br />

be discouraged! Here are 15 small steps that you can<br />

incorporate into your everyday life that will make a<br />

world <strong>of</strong> difference to Planet Earth:<br />

• Stop <strong>the</strong> junk mail<br />

Sure, we don’t have an extensive postal system in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI, but if given <strong>the</strong> choice, opt for electronic bills and<br />

pay your utilities online. Fortis TCI <strong>of</strong>fers a convenient<br />

online bill payment service, which both allows you to<br />

avoid long queues and to save paper (www.fortistci.<br />

com/bill-payment).<br />

• Give up bottled water<br />

Disposable plastic water bottles are not meant for multiple<br />

uses. A plastic bottle made from #1 polyethylene<br />

terephthalate (PET) is fine for a single use, but reuse<br />

can lead to bacterial growth and leaching <strong>of</strong> dangerous<br />

chemicals. Apart from <strong>the</strong> health risk, bottled water is<br />

expensive! Make use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water dispensers dotted<br />

around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to refill one or five gallon bottles,<br />

store water in recycled glass bottles in <strong>the</strong> fridge, and<br />

never leave home without your reusable water bottle.<br />

(Metal is usually best.) And while you’re at it, drink your<br />

beverages without <strong>the</strong> unnecessary plastic straw.<br />

• Reduce your waste<br />

Reducing <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> waste you bring in and <strong>the</strong><br />

amount <strong>of</strong> trash that goes to <strong>the</strong> landfill is an important<br />

part <strong>of</strong> any green lifestyle. But <strong>the</strong>re’s a lot more to it<br />

than just recycling plastic or throwing your trash in a<br />

bin. Make a composting pile in your backyard — one<br />

that allows for <strong>the</strong> natural decomposition <strong>of</strong> organic<br />

waste without having it rot in <strong>the</strong> depths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> landfill.<br />

Re-use and recycle when and where you can: glass bottles,<br />

tin cans and plastic containers can all be re-used<br />

Green living is easy in <strong>the</strong> TCI! You just need to get going.<br />

or recycled to have a completely new use. Don’t forget to<br />

take your re-usable shopping bags to <strong>the</strong> grocery store!<br />

• Conserve Energy<br />

Don’t leave your door wide open while <strong>the</strong> A/C is running.<br />

Unplug appliances not in use. Switch lights <strong>of</strong>f when not<br />

in <strong>the</strong> room. Make use <strong>of</strong> eco-friendly light bulbs and<br />

use rechargeable batteries. These are just a few tips that<br />

could assist you with saving energy and reducing utilities<br />

bills. The Internet is filled with energy-saving tips,<br />

just remember to switch your computer <strong>of</strong>f when you are<br />

done!<br />

• Conserve water<br />

An estimated 50% <strong>of</strong> all household water usage is wasted.<br />

It goes down <strong>the</strong> drain while we wait for it to warm up or<br />

evaporates more quickly than it needs to. In an era when<br />

our fresh water supply is diminishing due to pollution<br />

and drought, it’s important to conserve all <strong>the</strong> water we<br />

can, as well as learn about and put to use greywater recycling<br />

practices. Re-use your laundry water on your lawn<br />

or to wash your car; close <strong>the</strong> tap while you brush your<br />

teeth; limit your shower time — it really boils down (pardon<br />

<strong>the</strong> pun) to using water consciously.<br />

• Green your transportation<br />

Bicycling, walking, or carpooling are <strong>the</strong> best ways to<br />

commute sustainably. Inflating your car tires, driving<br />

slower, and combining trips will all help you save gas<br />

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green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

when driving is necessary. And for long trips, purchase<br />

carbon <strong>of</strong>fsets which invest your money into alternative<br />

energies.<br />

• Go chemical-free<br />

Forego toxic chemicals such as chlorine and choose<br />

sustainable options when cleaning your home or gardening<br />

(vinegar is a great base for most natural cleaning<br />

agents). You’ll not only limit disposable containers and<br />

save money, you’ll create a healthy living environment<br />

for your family at <strong>the</strong> same time.<br />

• Green your personal care<br />

Simplify your personal care with natural products:<br />

bicarbonate <strong>of</strong> soda can be used to make toothpaste<br />

and deodorant when mixed with some essential oils.<br />

Take sink baths to reduce water, use organic products<br />

or no products at all, opt for an easy to manage haircut.<br />

Also remember that healthy food leads to healthy skin<br />

and body.<br />

• Raise healthy, eco-conscious children<br />

Okay, let’s zoom out to some bigger choices we can<br />

make. Raising our kids to be healthy and aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

environment is crucial. Model with your actions and<br />

talk about <strong>the</strong> choices you make. Don’t nag or lecture,<br />

but instead make it interesting and interactive. The<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Maritime Affairs arranges<br />

frequent clean-ups and environmental awareness programs/competitions<br />

that kids can get involved in.<br />

• Support locally-owned businesses<br />

Small businesses are more likely to support o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

businesses within <strong>the</strong> community, care for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

environment, and conduct business in an environmentally-responsible<br />

way. They also work harder for your<br />

business, contribute more to charitable causes, create<br />

more jobs, limit outsourcing, and keep money circulating<br />

within a community, among many o<strong>the</strong>r things.<br />

reasons why green living matters with <strong>the</strong> myriad <strong>of</strong><br />

resources on <strong>the</strong> internet and in libraries. The National<br />

Environmental Centre, at DEMA, is a great resource to<br />

educate yourself on <strong>the</strong> natural environment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />

• Educate o<strong>the</strong>rs (gently)<br />

The biggest influence you can have on o<strong>the</strong>rs is through<br />

your actions and your attitude. Be open and honest<br />

about your choices, but without judgment. Don’t push<br />

<strong>the</strong> matter, just let your example be inspiration and<br />

keep <strong>the</strong> lines <strong>of</strong> communication open so that friends<br />

or family will have a seasoned pro to turn to when <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are looking for ways to go green.<br />

• Build a strong community<br />

We live within a very disconnected culture, even on our<br />

tiny islands. Make time to care for yourself and find<br />

enjoyment in your life. Make talking and laughing with<br />

loved ones a priority. Volunteer and help those in need.<br />

Be a part <strong>of</strong> your community. And rediscover <strong>the</strong> wonders<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world by enjoying nature walks, planting<br />

trees, organizing neighbourhood clean-ups, learning<br />

about <strong>the</strong> native plant and bird species, all as ways to<br />

go green.<br />

• Contact your representatives<br />

Email or call your community representative or district<br />

commissioner and ask <strong>the</strong>m what your community is<br />

doing to go green. Remain in contact with <strong>the</strong>m, attend<br />

public consultation meetings, and vote with your conscience<br />

instead <strong>of</strong> your party line.<br />

• Invest in carbon <strong>of</strong>fsets<br />

Even <strong>the</strong> greenest lifestyle still has an impact. Lessen<br />

yours by switching to solar energy or investing in carbon<br />

<strong>of</strong>fsets. The money you spend to go solar soon<br />

pays itself back in rebates and monthly refunds and<br />

purchasing <strong>the</strong>se credits will be invested into alternative<br />

energies or o<strong>the</strong>r sustainable ventures.<br />

• Continue to educate yourself<br />

As you’re practicing <strong>the</strong>se ways to go green you’ll<br />

likely spark a lot <strong>of</strong> conversations. Get familiar with <strong>the</strong><br />

So now you have no excuse! Kick-start your green<br />

life with <strong>the</strong>se 15 easy tips and, don’t forget: when in<br />

doubt, pop into DEMA for some advice! a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 29


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

This juvenile Nassau grouper is showing typical behavior <strong>of</strong> remaining stationary in a rock ledge as snorkelers or divers swim by.<br />

The Iconic Nassau Grouper<br />

Regionally endangered, locally abundant<br />

Story & Photos by John Claydon, PhD & Marta Calosso, MS, MA — TCI Nassau Grouper Project leaders<br />

Go on any SCUBA dive or snorkel trip in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and you would be very unlucky not to<br />

see a Nassau grouper or two. It is no exaggeration to say that <strong>the</strong>re is nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world where<br />

you encounter this species so frequently. When <strong>the</strong>y see you from a distance, <strong>the</strong>y usually remain quite<br />

stationary except to turn <strong>the</strong>ir heads to track your movement as you swim by. Often <strong>the</strong>y can be curious,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>y may approach divers — however, this is typically a sign that <strong>the</strong> fish is accustomed to being fed<br />

which should not be encouraged.<br />

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green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

It is also quite easy to find <strong>the</strong>m on a dinner plate:<br />

many restaurants will <strong>of</strong>fer this locally caught fish, usually<br />

listed simply as “grouper” on <strong>the</strong> menu. We take this<br />

for granted, but in some o<strong>the</strong>r countries Nassau groupers<br />

have become so rare that it is illegal to catch <strong>the</strong>m. In fact,<br />

<strong>the</strong> species is considered endangered by <strong>the</strong> International<br />

Union for <strong>the</strong> Conservation <strong>of</strong> Nature, <strong>the</strong> organisation<br />

tasked with assessing species’ risks <strong>of</strong> extinction.<br />

Nassau grouper is usually considered to be a coral<br />

reef fish, but that is a little misleading. When grouper<br />

spawn, eggs are released high above <strong>the</strong> substratum;<br />

eggs <strong>the</strong>n hatch into larvae and spend about forty days<br />

in <strong>the</strong> water column drifting <strong>of</strong>fshore and potentially dispersing<br />

long distances in <strong>the</strong> currents. Eventually, once<br />

<strong>the</strong>y have grown about an inch long and become capable<br />

swimmers, larvae are ready to swim back to shallow areas<br />

and settle, but typically <strong>the</strong> habitats <strong>the</strong>y choose are not<br />

reefs, but seagrass or algal areas.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> TCI, early juvenile Nassau grouper <strong>of</strong>ten use<br />

discarded conch shells and “blowout” ledges — <strong>the</strong> shelter<br />

formed by exposed roots and rhizomes in seagrass<br />

beds. After spending about a year in <strong>the</strong>ir early juvenile<br />

habitats, Nassau grouper migrate to shallow patch reefs,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n to deeper reefs, where <strong>the</strong>y become reproductively<br />

mature at four to eight years <strong>of</strong> age. While some reef<br />

fishes breed year-round, Nassau grouper has a very short<br />

spawning season <strong>of</strong> two to three months only, which in<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI runs from December to <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> February and<br />

synchronises with a phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> moon. Nassau grouper<br />

breeding can be spectacular: <strong>the</strong>y form aggregations<br />

<strong>of</strong> thousands (reportedly up to one hundred thousand)<br />

with individuals capable <strong>of</strong> migrating over sixty miles to<br />

spawn at <strong>the</strong> same location year after year.<br />

Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong> demise <strong>of</strong> Nassau grouper<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> region is directly linked to fishing spawning<br />

aggregations. Large numbers <strong>of</strong> big fish found at <strong>the</strong><br />

same time and place each year are attractive targets for<br />

fishers, but such fishing has rarely been sustainable, and<br />

sometimes an aggregation <strong>of</strong> tens <strong>of</strong> thousands can be<br />

“fished out” in a few years. When this happens, <strong>the</strong> local<br />

population crashes, <strong>the</strong> fishery is no longer viable, and<br />

your chances <strong>of</strong> seeing one on a dive are close to zero.<br />

From top right: Nassau grouper are common fare in TCI. Here, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are shown at <strong>the</strong> fishing dock in South Caicos.<br />

Renowned local fisherman and free-diver Conrad Kennedy displays<br />

his impressive catch <strong>of</strong> Nassau grouper in South Caicos.<br />

Early juvenile Nassau groupers commonly shelter in discarded conch<br />

shells.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 31


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Even worse, <strong>the</strong>re are few signs <strong>of</strong> populations recovering.<br />

Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> TCI has been quite lucky compared<br />

to rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> region: commercial and export fisheries<br />

have focused on lobster and conch, and although most<br />

fishers know about <strong>the</strong> aggregations, <strong>the</strong>y do not fish<br />

<strong>the</strong>m much. The single most effective management<br />

strategy is to prevent such fishing, and although <strong>the</strong><br />

pressure is currently low, it does appear to be growing.<br />

Consequently, as a proactive measure, Nassau grouper<br />

will be protected during <strong>the</strong>ir breeding season (December<br />

1 to February 28) through Amendments to <strong>the</strong> Fisheries<br />

Protection Ordinance introduced earlier this year. During<br />

this closed season, Nassau grouper will be <strong>of</strong>f-limits to<br />

fishers and <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> menu in restaurants, in much <strong>the</strong> same<br />

way as <strong>the</strong> closed season for spiny lobster.<br />

The social and ecological dynamics <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nassau<br />

grouper fishery and <strong>the</strong> species’ ecology in <strong>the</strong> TCI is<br />

<strong>the</strong> focus <strong>of</strong> an ongoing research collaboration between<br />

DEMA, <strong>the</strong> Reef Environmental Education Foundation,<br />

Oregon State University, and Scripps Institution <strong>of</strong><br />

Oceanography, UC San Diego. Our goals are to better<br />

understand <strong>the</strong> complex dynamics <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nassau grouper<br />

fishery in <strong>the</strong> TCI and to document <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> spawning<br />

aggregations and <strong>the</strong> stocks in general, so that <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI can continue to enjoy its unique status where fishers<br />

can still catch groupers, tourists can still see <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong><br />

water, and everyone can enjoy eating <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

The project was initiated in 2014 through a grant<br />

from The Flagship Species Fund, Fauna and Flora<br />

International which enabled us to spend three months<br />

all over <strong>the</strong> TCI conducting interviews with fishers and<br />

various stakeholders, monitoring dock landings, collecting<br />

biological samples, and tagging Nassau groupers on<br />

SCUBA. We are very grateful for <strong>the</strong> support provided<br />

by Big Blue Unlimited, The School for Field Studies, MV<br />

Glen Ellen, and a friend <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund.<br />

Special thanks go to <strong>the</strong> community <strong>of</strong> South Caicos. a<br />

From top left: Dr. Scott Heppell, Marta Calosso, and Dr. John Claydon<br />

stand ready to tag Nassau grouper on SCUBA with Big Blue Unlimited.<br />

Dr. John Claydon collects biological samples from a mature Nassau<br />

grouper at Caicos Fisheries Ltd. processing plant in South Caicos.<br />

Marta Calosso interviews former DEMA Fisheries Officer Christopher<br />

Hall about historical changes in <strong>the</strong> fisheries.<br />

32 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

This juvenile White Ibis was spotted feeding in a pond in Wheeland in Providenciales.<br />

ERIC F. SALAMANCA<br />

Birding in Paradise<br />

New guidebook series highlights birdwatching hotspots.<br />

By B Naqqi Manco<br />

For birdwatchers, eco-tourists, and independent travellers, <strong>the</strong>re is a new source <strong>of</strong> help in finding<br />

one’s way around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Since much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tourism in TCI is beach-related, it can<br />

prove a challenge to locate sites <strong>of</strong> interest away from <strong>the</strong> coasts. Exploring <strong>the</strong> family islands outside<br />

Providenciales also has some difficulties when one is not familiar with <strong>the</strong> geography and <strong>the</strong> hidden<br />

wonders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se special islands, since signage remains largely lacking.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 33


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

The Birding in Paradise series features five booklets<br />

focusing on Providenciales, Grand Turk, Salt Cay, South<br />

Caicos, and North and Middle Caicos (combined). The<br />

booklets feature accurate aerial photography maps with<br />

driving directions to birding sites, and walking directions<br />

for those that involve foot access. Also outlined<br />

are travel and ground logistics for visiting o<strong>the</strong>r sites <strong>of</strong><br />

interest including support facilities and contact numbers.<br />

Introductions to <strong>the</strong> history, geology, and culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> round out <strong>the</strong> general appeal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> booklets.<br />

Full-colour photos <strong>of</strong> birds likely to be seen at various<br />

sites fulfil <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> field guide, and o<strong>the</strong>r wildlife<br />

is featured in detail as well. A comprehensive driving<br />

tour <strong>of</strong> each island, to cover all sites available, is fully<br />

described in detail with distances noted.<br />

Visitors can feel confident in exploration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> on <strong>the</strong>ir own with <strong>the</strong> appropriate island booklet<br />

in hand. This was <strong>the</strong> aim <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> authors, who have<br />

worked closely with various conservation bodies in TCI<br />

for nearly twenty years. The booklets were produced<br />

through a partnership <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum Foundation and <strong>the</strong> United Kingdom Overseas<br />

Territories Conservation Forum (UKOTCF), a federation<br />

<strong>of</strong> conservation bodies across all <strong>the</strong> UK Territories,<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r with supporting ones in Britain. In-kind support<br />

also came from <strong>the</strong> TCI Government’s Department<br />

<strong>of</strong> Environment & Maritime Affairs and <strong>the</strong> ecotourism<br />

sector.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> release <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> booklets, a brilliant<br />

response came from our neighbours to <strong>the</strong> north, where<br />

accomplished Bahamas birder Tony White stated, “TCI is<br />

. . . <strong>of</strong>ten overlooked as a birding destination, but it has<br />

a variety <strong>of</strong> easily seen Caribbean specialties (It is <strong>the</strong><br />

only place outside Cuba where you can see <strong>the</strong> Cuban<br />

Crow.) and a comfortable, well-developed infrastructure<br />

. . . a new series . . . Birding in Paradise . . . toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

cover all <strong>the</strong> accessible islands in <strong>the</strong> territory. They are<br />

excellent and could be used as prototypes for guides to<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean islands. I have birded on islands covered<br />

by three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> five booklets. The new guides cover all <strong>the</strong><br />

birding sites I know and more. I look forward to visiting<br />

<strong>the</strong> remaining islands and new sites on <strong>the</strong> islands I have<br />

already visited. These books will make my birding much<br />

easier and more successful.”<br />

34 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Fur<strong>the</strong>r accolades came when <strong>the</strong> booklets were<br />

presented in various international fora, including <strong>the</strong><br />

UKOTCF’s “Sustaining Partnerships” conservation conference<br />

in Gibraltar in July <strong>2015</strong>. Conservation partners<br />

from Montserrat were so impressed when <strong>the</strong>y saw<br />

<strong>the</strong> books on publication that <strong>the</strong>y asked for one for<br />

Montserrat that UKOTCF has just published!<br />

Copies <strong>of</strong> each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> books are available at $10 each<br />

from <strong>the</strong> TC National Museum on both Provo and Grand<br />

Turk, Unicorn Books, and several o<strong>the</strong>r outlets. For those<br />

who want to buy a downloadable pdf version for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

tablet or computer (and for printed copies to be sent<br />

to o<strong>the</strong>r countries), go to www.ukotcf.org/birding-in-<br />

Turks-and-Caicos/birding-in-turks-and-caicos.cfm.<br />

UKOTCF has worked in support <strong>of</strong> many local partners<br />

in TCI for about twenty years. These books were<br />

designed in consultation with local businesspeople, conservationists<br />

and educators, to help expand <strong>the</strong> types<br />

<strong>of</strong> tourism and extend <strong>the</strong> season, while protecting <strong>the</strong><br />

natural environment, and to provide an information and<br />

education resource for local residents. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 35


DAVID GALLARDO–WORLD OF OCEANS


feature<br />

Opposite page: This shot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral reefs surrounding <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos reminds us <strong>of</strong> why we need to care about our oceans.<br />

Above: Ocean Country author Liz Cunningham takes a look at a sea turtle hatchling being cared for by Eiglys Trejo during one <strong>of</strong> Liz’s many<br />

visits to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Her “turtle encounter” is described in <strong>the</strong> book.<br />

Ocean Country<br />

Quest to save <strong>the</strong> seas starts in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Excerpts By Liz Cunningham<br />

Liz Cunningham’s new book, Ocean Country holds a special place in my heart. The focus <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> book is<br />

how people around <strong>the</strong> world are practicing “hope in action,” and why it’s time for all <strong>of</strong> us to join <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

It describe’s Liz’s two year global journey to discover how communities and individuals are fighting to<br />

save <strong>the</strong> marine world that every living being depends on.<br />

I met Liz four years ago when she was on her first trip back to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> since 1991<br />

— a visit which spurred <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> this groundbreaking book. Liz contributed a beautiful, lyrical<br />

piece entitled “Simple Truths” for <strong>the</strong> Fall 2011 issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, along with a second piece,<br />

“A Mosaic <strong>of</strong> Life” for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> 2012/13 issue. We’ve kept in touch, and I am honored to have witnessed<br />

<strong>the</strong> conception and birth <strong>of</strong> Ocean Country. I hope <strong>the</strong> excerpts printed here encourage you to read <strong>the</strong><br />

entire book: it is an adventure story, poetic meditation, and, most importantly, a call to action.<br />

Kathy Borsuk<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 37


In this excerpt from Chapter 1, “Beauty,” Liz is<br />

returning to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> “<strong>the</strong> place<br />

where I’d fallen in love with <strong>the</strong> undersea world,” after<br />

spending 12 years recovering from a kayak accident<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r health problems.<br />

The next day, our boat motored to <strong>the</strong> Northwest<br />

Point—nicknamed “<strong>the</strong> Point”—where <strong>the</strong> violet blue <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Atlantic trench almost touches <strong>the</strong> island. The number<br />

<strong>of</strong> buildings slowly thinned until <strong>the</strong>re was practically<br />

no sign <strong>of</strong> civilization, and <strong>the</strong> shoreline was just a narrow<br />

slice <strong>of</strong> green jungle. A tern hovered above <strong>the</strong> bow.<br />

A school <strong>of</strong> flying fish darted across <strong>the</strong> water’s surface.<br />

My dive buddy that day was a woman from Paris. She<br />

explained to me in broken English that she would need a<br />

few moments in <strong>the</strong> water to get used to her gear, as she<br />

had not been diving for several months. “I will need <strong>the</strong><br />

moment,” she said, “to recover my sensations.”<br />

I smiled. Who could have said it better?<br />

After jumping in <strong>the</strong> water and finding our equilibrium<br />

as “weightless aquatic mammals,” we swam to what<br />

was called <strong>the</strong> “wall,” where <strong>the</strong> reef descended to <strong>the</strong><br />

continental shelf. Then, with a long outbreath, we sank<br />

in silence into that luminous, deep blue.<br />

Once we were a hundred or so feet deep, something<br />

changed, as if we’d let go <strong>of</strong> terra firma and its last<br />

vestigial remnant, <strong>the</strong> water’s surface, and abandoned<br />

ourselves to <strong>the</strong> open, watery realm. Its sensations were<br />

at once foreign and yet hauntingly familiar; it seemed to<br />

wake pr<strong>of</strong>ound, archaic memories.<br />

We descended through a narrow, vertical corridor <strong>of</strong><br />

coral like <strong>the</strong> fluted vault <strong>of</strong> a ca<strong>the</strong>dral. It was filled with<br />

thousands <strong>of</strong> tiny silvery fish—silversides. The beauty<br />

was overwhelming. For a moment, my body felt like a<br />

tuning fork; <strong>the</strong> beauty was so resonant that it reverberated<br />

through my breath and bones.<br />

As we descended, <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef changed every<br />

ten feet or so, <strong>the</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral becoming wider until,<br />

at close to 130 feet, <strong>the</strong>y were wide platters, expanding<br />

to collect as much light as possible, like solar panels, in<br />

<strong>the</strong> darkening depths.<br />

To <strong>the</strong> east, <strong>the</strong> ocean went on for thousands <strong>of</strong><br />

miles—next stop, North Africa. Just <strong>the</strong> open sea and <strong>the</strong><br />

life for which it was home. We hovered weightless over a<br />

large knob <strong>of</strong> plate coral. Below us were thousands <strong>of</strong> feet<br />

<strong>of</strong> water. The reef wall receded with undulating arcs that<br />

reminded me <strong>of</strong> pen-and-ink Chinese landscapes in which<br />

mountains fade in successive layers into almost infinite<br />

distances. With each curve, <strong>the</strong> coral wall became more<br />

opaque, but seemed to go on forever.<br />

A small dot appeared in <strong>the</strong> blue depths to <strong>the</strong> east.<br />

It got larger. It had fins, thick ones. Now I saw a roundish<br />

head and wide paddle-shaped front fins propelling<br />

an oval shell with <strong>the</strong> grace <strong>of</strong> a long-distance swimmer.<br />

It was nearly two yards long, with a short, stubby tail—a<br />

female green sea turtle. Migrating thousands <strong>of</strong> miles,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y always return to <strong>the</strong> beach where <strong>the</strong>y were born to<br />

lay <strong>the</strong>ir eggs.<br />

We followed her up to shallower waters and lingered<br />

at about sixty feet as she slowly ascended to <strong>the</strong> surface<br />

to take a breath, her body a silhouette in <strong>the</strong> bright blue<br />

waters.<br />

Each coral head was covered with clusters <strong>of</strong> fish<br />

nibbling and chasing and darting in and out <strong>of</strong> intricate<br />

tunnels and archways. A mosaic <strong>of</strong> shapes flashed in <strong>the</strong><br />

distance. It was a school <strong>of</strong> horse-eye jacks. As we got<br />

closer, <strong>the</strong>y did look horse-eyed, <strong>the</strong>ir eyes bulging out <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir silvery bodies. Every few minutes <strong>the</strong> school would<br />

quiver and reorchestrate itself into a new shimmering<br />

shape.<br />

The beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> undersea world was not just <strong>the</strong><br />

beauty <strong>of</strong> seeing, it was also being seen. Hovering in<br />

38 www.timespub.tc


<strong>the</strong> midst <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> jacks, with <strong>the</strong>ir alert but calm gazes, I<br />

sensed <strong>the</strong>m allowing me to just be in <strong>the</strong>ir midst.<br />

There were damselfish and grunts and snapper.<br />

Gobies. Octopuses. Angelfish. Trunkfish. Pufferfish.<br />

Butterflyfish. Trumpetfish. There was no way to grasp it<br />

all.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> our dive, we ascended slowly to about<br />

fifteen feet and floated peacefully near <strong>the</strong> boat. We<br />

would stay <strong>the</strong>re for a little over three minutes, doing<br />

what’s called a “safety stop.” A grouper with puffy cheeks<br />

and bulging round eyes hovered beneath <strong>the</strong> boat. The<br />

water was dotted with hundreds <strong>of</strong> yellow grunts. My<br />

whole body was smiling. Diving opened up so many unexpected<br />

worlds for me, not just <strong>the</strong> ocean, but also my own<br />

body and how my breath was connected to <strong>the</strong> world as<br />

a whole.<br />

Six months later, Liz returns to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. On this visit, she hopes to spend some time<br />

writing and painting, in <strong>the</strong> hopes <strong>of</strong> using <strong>the</strong> “tools<br />

<strong>of</strong> my trade” in service <strong>of</strong> ocean conservation. It was<br />

42 days into <strong>the</strong> Deepwater Horizon oil rig explosion<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico and <strong>the</strong> resulting oil spill. Liz,<br />

like most people, was reeling with <strong>the</strong> staggering<br />

implications <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spill to both <strong>the</strong> local environment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gulf Coast and <strong>the</strong> world’s oceans as a whole.<br />

The following are a series <strong>of</strong> excerpts from Chapter 2,<br />

“A Body Within a Body.”<br />

As <strong>the</strong> plane flew south, my eyes went back and forth<br />

between a newspaper and <strong>the</strong> blue-green swirls <strong>of</strong> water<br />

and lace-like strips <strong>of</strong> land that formed <strong>the</strong> Bahamian<br />

archipelago. The newspaper had photos from <strong>the</strong> oil<br />

spill that were so disheartening that I had almost put <strong>the</strong><br />

newspaper in a trash can in Miami.<br />

I turned <strong>the</strong> pages slowly and allowed <strong>the</strong> images to<br />

reach out to me: a sea bird mired in oil, its beak and eyes<br />

barely visible; a dead sea turtle suffocated in a wetland<br />

blackened by oil; <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> a Louisiana coastal zone<br />

director, holding up a handful <strong>of</strong> oil that dripped in long<br />

elastic strands. The oil was as thick as rubber cement.<br />

A flight attendant swished by, grabbing <strong>the</strong> last<br />

cups before landing. The plane made a gentle arc over<br />

<strong>the</strong> islands, which sparkled like silvery-green sardines in<br />

<strong>the</strong> turquoise sea. Just before <strong>the</strong> plane touched down<br />

in Providenciales, a flock <strong>of</strong> birds took flight over Chalk<br />

Sound. The water glistened through <strong>the</strong> flutter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

wings. I sighed. I was so happy to be back. It felt like I was<br />

breaking a fast.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 39


Liz travels to <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies field station<br />

in South Caicos, where she is met by Lizzie, an intern<br />

<strong>the</strong>re, and Eva, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essors.<br />

The next day we motored out to Long Cay. The outboard<br />

carved a path through radiant turquoise flats that<br />

stretched as far as we could see. Long Cay was a sliver <strong>of</strong><br />

an island covered with mangroves. The staff wanted to do<br />

some surveys before bringing <strong>the</strong>ir students <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

As we geared up, I reached for my hood.<br />

“What are you wearing that for?” Lizzie teased me.<br />

“It keeps <strong>the</strong> hair out <strong>of</strong> my face.”<br />

Lizzie looked at Eva with a wink. Eva smiled. “Liz,<br />

this isn’t Club Med.” Lizzie showed me how she wrapped<br />

a bandana around her head to keep her hair back. “Don’t<br />

worry, you’ll get <strong>the</strong>re. You’ll be a fish dweeb by <strong>the</strong> time<br />

you leave.”<br />

We hopped into <strong>the</strong> water. “The mangroves,” Eva<br />

explained, adjusting her snorkel, “are nurseries for juvenile<br />

fish. You might see some when you are snorkeling.”<br />

I’d seen mangroves many times before and thought nothing<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m; <strong>the</strong>y seemed like scruffy bushes. But now I<br />

was primed to pay attention.<br />

The roots <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mangroves arced above <strong>the</strong> water<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n descended vertically. The reflections <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

leaves flickered on <strong>the</strong> surface, casting a deep-green hue.<br />

I peered underwater into <strong>the</strong> labyrinthine root system:<br />

hundreds <strong>of</strong> baby fish hovered skittishly.<br />

It was like a “fish kindergarten” or an incubator—<strong>the</strong><br />

roots formed mazelike bassinets or cradles that protected<br />

<strong>the</strong> young fish from larger predators. Those miles <strong>of</strong><br />

milky blue-green flats that <strong>the</strong> two-prop plane had flown<br />

over were dense with mangroves and seagrass, nurseries<br />

for millions <strong>of</strong> juvenile fish.<br />

I stood up and pulled my mask <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

“Nice, huh?” said Lizzie. “The juveniles, <strong>the</strong>y feed on<br />

plankton until <strong>the</strong>y grow large enough to go out on <strong>the</strong><br />

reef.”<br />

“And plankton are …?” I didn’t really know what<br />

plankton was.<br />

“Organisms that drift in <strong>the</strong> current. Some are microscopic,<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs are big, like jellyfish.”<br />

“What kind <strong>of</strong> fish?”<br />

Lizzie smiled. The partial list: angelfish, grouper,<br />

grunts, snapper.<br />

“Liz!” Eva called out. She was carefully holding a sea<br />

urchin in her hands. Its spines were sharp. “Just touch it<br />

very gently.”<br />

I felt one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> smooth spines quiver. Urchins have<br />

light-sensitive molecules in <strong>the</strong>ir spines, similar to <strong>the</strong><br />

photoreceptors in our eyes. Researchers speculate that<br />

<strong>the</strong>y may “see”—as in “detect shapes <strong>of</strong> light”—with <strong>the</strong><br />

whole surface <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir body.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> way back from Long Cay, we snorkeled at an<br />

island called HDL just across from <strong>the</strong> field station. It was<br />

a striking outcropping <strong>of</strong> stone. It seemed a contradiction<br />

that such a beautiful island would be named HDL. But scientists<br />

do have very dry wits. Maybe HDL was named <strong>the</strong><br />

way a ravishingly beautiful woman named Joanna might<br />

be nicknamed Joe.<br />

HDL teemed with juvenile fish too. May and June were<br />

“juvenile season”—swarms <strong>of</strong> tiny fish filled <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

Sometimes adult fish would circle and nip each o<strong>the</strong>r and<br />

<strong>the</strong>n leave behind a plume <strong>of</strong> eggs and sperm. After <strong>the</strong><br />

eggs hatch, <strong>the</strong> new larvae <strong>the</strong>n drift in <strong>the</strong> currents and<br />

find safe havens in <strong>the</strong> mangroves and <strong>the</strong> seagrass.<br />

That night, a storm hit South Caicos. It affected Liz<br />

deeply.<br />

A blast <strong>of</strong> wind roared in <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> open water, and <strong>the</strong><br />

rain pelted down.<br />

God, I feel like I’m on ano<strong>the</strong>r planet.<br />

The field station’s generator was turned <strong>of</strong>f at night,<br />

so <strong>the</strong>re were no lights. It was pitch black. At <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> island we were in <strong>the</strong> thick <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> roaring wind and<br />

rain and tides.<br />

But maybe it’s this—that I’m finally feeling this<br />

planet.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> months before, I’d pored over books about <strong>the</strong><br />

ocean. Over 70 percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> planet’s surface is covered<br />

by water; 96 percent <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> water on earth is in <strong>the</strong><br />

oceans. The earth is essentially an aquarium-terrarium.<br />

And <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water is in decline. The cultural<br />

revelation was slow and painful. It is easy to understand a<br />

pond or a river being poisoned—like <strong>the</strong> pollutants in <strong>the</strong><br />

Hudson <strong>of</strong> my childhood. But for many, <strong>the</strong> ocean seems<br />

too big to be polluted in <strong>the</strong> same way. But it’s not, and<br />

just like goldfish, sea creatures need healthy water to<br />

survive. And <strong>the</strong>re is no o<strong>the</strong>r planet we can race to with<br />

a siphon to perform an emergency water change.<br />

The wind whipped up stronger, thrashing through<br />

coconut trees. I remembered a NASA visualization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

currents in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic, swirls <strong>of</strong> currents and micro-currents,<br />

seas and subseas, all intermixing—each body<br />

<strong>of</strong> water flowing into its neighbors. And in those seas?<br />

Countless whales and turtles and sharks and tuna, riding<br />

<strong>the</strong> currents—<strong>the</strong>ir “second body”—from <strong>the</strong> Azores<br />

40 www.timespub.tc


INNOVATION | CONSERVATION | ADVENTURE<br />

and North Africa to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and northward to<br />

Newfoundland.<br />

My heart beat and my blood pulsed through my<br />

arms and hands. A fact was surfacing as a sensation: I<br />

too was a body within a body. And a body <strong>of</strong> water at<br />

that. Our blood is 92 percent water, our brain and muscles,<br />

75 percent. And all that water moves and moves<br />

and moves—circulation. That night it was wildly tangible,<br />

as real as <strong>the</strong> zipper on my mozi net, as <strong>the</strong> rain pelting<br />

down, as <strong>the</strong> salty wind blowing through like some<br />

long-forgotten memory <strong>of</strong> our origins.<br />

It was a year later, and ano<strong>the</strong>r trip to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, that<br />

spurred Liz to her own “call to action,” in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong><br />

writing Ocean Country, <strong>the</strong>n traveling to promote <strong>the</strong><br />

book and her message <strong>of</strong> “hope in action.” In <strong>the</strong>se<br />

excerpts from Chapter 4, “The Truths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,”<br />

Liz goes diving on a Grace Bay site called Boneyard<br />

and experiences an episode <strong>of</strong> coral bleaching that<br />

took place during June 2012, a month which had <strong>the</strong><br />

all-time warmest surface temperatures (<strong>of</strong> both land<br />

and sea) for June in <strong>the</strong> Nor<strong>the</strong>rn hemisphere.<br />

PRESENTS<br />

FEATURING<br />

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | KAYAKING | KITEBOARDING<br />

SNORKELING | SCUBA DIVING | PRIVATE CHARTERS | BIKING<br />

<br />

<br />

18<br />

YEARS<br />

©BLUELINES/p.shearer ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />

I sat on <strong>the</strong> upper deck and remembered this spot<br />

from <strong>the</strong> week before. It was a series <strong>of</strong> deep sand channels,<br />

densely populated with coral. The finger coral were<br />

shaped like protruding stubby thumbs, and <strong>the</strong> large<br />

staghorn coral like <strong>the</strong> antlers <strong>of</strong> a deer. Hence its name,<br />

Boneyard.<br />

Each cluster <strong>of</strong> coral had between twenty and a hundred<br />

finger coral and staghorn coral colonies, densely<br />

packed toge<strong>the</strong>r. It was sometimes hard to even see <strong>the</strong><br />

coral, because <strong>the</strong> schools <strong>of</strong> yellow grunts were so thick.<br />

There were hundreds <strong>of</strong> parrotfish in all kinds <strong>of</strong> colors—<br />

maroon and turquoise with magenta and yellow and deep<br />

blue markings—as well as damselfish and hamlets and<br />

grouper and neon-yellow trumpetfish. Turtles. Spotted<br />

rays. Sharks. As we motored out, I remember thinking<br />

that <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay and <strong>the</strong> Point were <strong>the</strong> most<br />

deeply alive place I had ever experienced.<br />

The boat slowed. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> divemasters used a long<br />

pole to moor on to a buoy. “Okay kiddo, get in <strong>the</strong> water,”<br />

<strong>the</strong> divemaster said as he spot-checked my gear. I put <strong>the</strong><br />

heel <strong>of</strong> my hand to my mask to keep it in place and took<br />

one long step <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat and<br />

into that world I so deeply cherished.<br />

I exhaled and sank s<strong>of</strong>tly into <strong>the</strong> water. I closed my<br />

eyes for a few seconds to just feel <strong>the</strong> water river along<br />

my body.<br />

649 | 946 | 5034<br />

649 | 231 | 6455<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 41


Jeez, it’s warm.<br />

I looked at my dive computer: 82 degrees Fahrenheit.<br />

I turned horizontal as I sank and looked down at <strong>the</strong> site,<br />

about forty feet below.<br />

Where am I?<br />

It was almost unrecognizable. The sand channels<br />

were <strong>the</strong>re, but hardly a sign <strong>of</strong> life. Everywhere <strong>the</strong> coral<br />

was white and brown, with green-brown algae growing<br />

over it. There were a few small clusters <strong>of</strong> fish and an<br />

occasional lone fish, looking out <strong>of</strong> place. The coral had<br />

bleached.<br />

I paused at a bed <strong>of</strong> staghorn coral. The week before,<br />

it had been filled with so many juvenile parrotfish and<br />

blue chromis that <strong>the</strong> water appeared to be filled with<br />

<strong>the</strong> “snow” I had described to Lizzie. Tiny brown-andwhite<br />

damselfish and bright-yellow conies had cautiously<br />

peered out from <strong>the</strong> shelter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> staghorn coral’s antler-like<br />

structure. Small multicolored fish had darted<br />

mischievously, sometimes chasing each o<strong>the</strong>r, or had<br />

nibbled on a piece <strong>of</strong> coral, nestled in <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> its<br />

tight matrix.<br />

Now it was barren and whitish-gray, save for one oval<br />

blue tang that nibbled on <strong>the</strong> algae overgrowth. The o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

divers and I searched fruitlessly for a spot that might not<br />

be so damaged.<br />

As I moved my fins slowly through <strong>the</strong> water, it felt<br />

as if I swam through <strong>the</strong> ashen remnants <strong>of</strong> a bombedout<br />

ca<strong>the</strong>dral. Each spot I remembered being deeply alive<br />

and illuminated with life. The mosaic <strong>of</strong> color was gone,<br />

only a white-brown monotone structure remaining, covered<br />

with algae. What was once brilliant was now muted<br />

and wi<strong>the</strong>red; what had shimmered was now grayed out;<br />

iridescent, now bleak and barren.<br />

How could this happen in less than a week’s time?<br />

The devastation was unmistakable. We swam through<br />

a landscape <strong>of</strong> millions upon millions <strong>of</strong> near-microscopic<br />

animals, ailing and dead, unable to support <strong>the</strong> multitude<br />

<strong>of</strong> life forms <strong>the</strong>y once did. I paused at a yard-wide knob<br />

<strong>of</strong> brain coral. The week before, small black-and-white<br />

gobies had sped across its Aztec-like patterns. Next to it<br />

had been some bright magenta sea fans. A large school<br />

<strong>of</strong> yellow-and-silvery-white schoolmaster fish had hovered<br />

<strong>the</strong>re.<br />

The schoolmasters were gone. The sea fans were tattered,<br />

with a blackish overgrowth. Almost all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> brain<br />

coral was covered with algae. A small portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coral’s<br />

zigzag structure was visible, but it was a dark brown<br />

and white.<br />

A French physician watched as I took a photograph <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> brain coral. He looked at me with moribund eyes and<br />

<strong>the</strong>n slowly ran his index finger across his throat from ear<br />

to ear, mimicking <strong>the</strong> slice <strong>of</strong> a guillotine. I opened <strong>the</strong><br />

palms <strong>of</strong> my hands as if to say, “I’m not sure.”<br />

Before getting back on <strong>the</strong> boat, I keep looking down<br />

to <strong>the</strong> reef. I still couldn’t quite believe it. It was incomprehensible.<br />

The next day, John Walch, from <strong>the</strong> Reef Ball<br />

Foundation, and local marine ecologist Marsha Pardee<br />

explain to Liz <strong>the</strong> bleaching phemonmenon.<br />

Bleaching happens when <strong>the</strong> coral, reacting to environmental<br />

stresses, expels beneficial algae, with which it<br />

has a symbiotic relationship. “The coral basically gets sick<br />

and throws up <strong>the</strong> algae,” John said, “just like when a person<br />

is ill and expels <strong>the</strong> contents <strong>of</strong> his or her stomach.”<br />

This type <strong>of</strong> algae is different from <strong>the</strong> type that<br />

feeds on nutrient run<strong>of</strong>f and damages coral. The coral<br />

gets its nourishment from this algae’s ability to make<br />

energy from light, photosyn<strong>the</strong>sis. And it gets its green<br />

and rose and yellow hues from <strong>the</strong> algae’s color. When it<br />

expels <strong>the</strong> algae, it loses its color and turns white. It can<br />

survive for a while without <strong>the</strong> algae, but not too long,<br />

and not if coral disease and algae overgrowth become<br />

predominant.<br />

When coral bleaches, <strong>the</strong> fish leave, looking for<br />

healthier terrain. How far <strong>the</strong>y go or where, scientists<br />

don’t really know. John explained that if <strong>the</strong> temperature<br />

change had happened more slowly, in weeks ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

than two or three days, <strong>the</strong> coral might have tolerated it.<br />

“Corals and marine organisms have evolved in <strong>the</strong> most<br />

stable environment in <strong>the</strong> world. They have no built-in<br />

mechanisms for rapid change. They can take change,<br />

but if we go too fast, that’s where <strong>the</strong> problem is.” The<br />

four-degree spike in temperature in less than a week is<br />

what <strong>the</strong> coral couldn’t tolerate.<br />

Marsha cleared her throat. “Take a cockroach in my<br />

kitchen. It can go through fifteen different insecticides in<br />

a year and get used to <strong>the</strong>m all. Coral can’t; <strong>the</strong>y don’t<br />

have <strong>the</strong> ability to make that rapid a change.”<br />

“There’s no silver bullet,” John said. “Everyone wants<br />

a silver bullet.” Ocean ecosystems are so interconnected;<br />

you can’t just cordon <strong>of</strong>f a portion and preserve it like a<br />

pickle in a jar. Saving coral reefs isn’t just about saving<br />

coral reefs. Their decline is about <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> our water<br />

and <strong>the</strong> air we brea<strong>the</strong>. The damage I saw was a sign <strong>of</strong><br />

massive destruction around <strong>the</strong> globe that was devastating<br />

fisheries, creating extreme droughts and storms, and<br />

42 www.timespub.tc


CHARLIE COSTELLO<br />

Liz Cunningham and her husband Charlie spent a week on a boat on <strong>the</strong> Silver Banks, just south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, where Charlie captured<br />

this awesome photo <strong>of</strong> a humpback whale breeching.<br />

polluting our waterways. The silver bullet would have to<br />

be a multitude <strong>of</strong> bullets: stopping overfishing, instituting<br />

proper sewage treatment, and limiting nutrient run<strong>of</strong>f<br />

and carbon dioxide emissions.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, scientists had documented an 80<br />

percent loss <strong>of</strong> hard coral over <strong>the</strong> last three decades.<br />

The problems are so massive and so in need <strong>of</strong> international<br />

coordination that paralysis is <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong> reaction.<br />

What’s needed? A vast collectivity <strong>of</strong> changes, equivalent<br />

to <strong>the</strong> damage that we’ve been inflicting. The possibility<br />

<strong>of</strong> change is in proportion to how many <strong>of</strong> us are willing<br />

to act. Think <strong>of</strong> slavery several hundred years ago. How<br />

ubiquitous was that? End slavery? A four-thousand-yearold<br />

tradition that was <strong>the</strong> very fiber <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> economy? An<br />

elite class’s grip on power?<br />

Change came about because many people protested<br />

and voted and signed petitions and lobbied decision makers.<br />

Not to mention <strong>the</strong> courageous and steadfast souls<br />

who refused to be muzzled, risked death and imprisonment,<br />

and became <strong>the</strong> voice <strong>of</strong> generations. “Change,”<br />

<strong>the</strong> social-justice activist Tom Hayden wrote, “begins in<br />

<strong>the</strong> individual lives <strong>of</strong> countless people when <strong>the</strong>y no longer<br />

accept existing conditions as inevitable.”<br />

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FAX: 649-946-4945<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 43


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SOUTH DOCK<br />

ROAD, PROVO<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important tasks for ocean conservation<br />

would be to convince decision makers to do<br />

something about climate change, overfishing, and water<br />

quality. Of course, that pressure is <strong>of</strong>ten rebuffed with,<br />

“Oh now, that’s going to be really complicated! And <strong>the</strong><br />

economic fallout would be devastating.” Just like a slave<br />

owner thinking how complicated it would be to run a<br />

plantation without slave labor. Okay, it’s complicated.<br />

But more complicated than arctic oil drilling or fracking<br />

or fishing boats that drag 55-mile-long drift nets at sea?<br />

The rest <strong>of</strong> Ocean Country details Liz’s research on<br />

<strong>the</strong> California coast, Sulawesi and West Papua, France<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Mediterranean Sea. She documents <strong>the</strong> work<br />

<strong>of</strong> many people who are rescuing <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> seas<br />

and affecting real change — one small step at a time.<br />

Ocean Country closes with a trip to <strong>the</strong> Silver Banks<br />

just south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos that Liz shared with<br />

her husband Charlie. Here, thousands <strong>of</strong> humpback<br />

whales breed and give birth every winter before<br />

migrating north to feed in <strong>the</strong> summer.<br />

Toward <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day, we cautiously approached<br />

a mo<strong>the</strong>r and calf. The driver deftly maneuvered <strong>the</strong> boat<br />

as we timed <strong>the</strong>ir breaths. Then <strong>the</strong>y surfaced toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

once more, exhaled with muffled bursts, and descended<br />

like a submarine and its companion submersible.<br />

“Okay,” said Gene. “Let’s give this a try.”<br />

We slipped into <strong>the</strong> water. The mo<strong>the</strong>r was resting<br />

motionless at about sixty feet, and <strong>the</strong> calf had nuzzled<br />

itself right beneath her chin with <strong>the</strong> sleepy-eyed, s<strong>of</strong>tmou<strong>the</strong>d<br />

expression <strong>of</strong> a baby in a cradle. The water was<br />

suffused with peacefulness and an unthinkable energy I<br />

was at a loss to name.<br />

Every few minutes, <strong>the</strong> calf stirred and rose, as if<br />

swimming in its sleep, outstretching its newborn fins in<br />

slow motion to propel itself to <strong>the</strong> surface and take a<br />

breath. Then it sank, tiptoeing back to bed in a trance-like<br />

slumber, and tucked itself under its mo<strong>the</strong>r’s chin.<br />

We floated like a loose-knit blob <strong>of</strong> jellyfish, gawking<br />

silently. There was just an hour or so <strong>of</strong> daylight left; <strong>the</strong><br />

light cast angular, silvery threads through <strong>the</strong> darkening,<br />

violet-blue water. Once again <strong>the</strong> calf raised its head and<br />

slipped out from under its mo<strong>the</strong>r’s chin. But this time it<br />

seemed to wake out <strong>of</strong> its slumber.<br />

As it rose, it turned vertically in <strong>the</strong> water, revealing<br />

<strong>the</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t-looking pleats beneath its throat and belly.<br />

“When a whale turns its belly toward you,” Gene had told<br />

44 www.timespub.tc


us, “it’s actually positioning itself so it can see you with<br />

both eyes.” The calf spread its fins, took a breath <strong>of</strong> air,<br />

and began to swim horizontally, bobbing just below <strong>the</strong><br />

surface. The mo<strong>the</strong>r started to rise, steady as a slow-moving<br />

barge.<br />

They both inched toward me, side by side, and eyed<br />

us curiously. Soon <strong>the</strong>ir heads were just a few feet away.<br />

The calf wobbled in <strong>the</strong> sea surge, its fins spread like<br />

<strong>the</strong> wings <strong>of</strong> a fledging sparrow. Right behind it was <strong>the</strong><br />

mo<strong>the</strong>r’s long head. Her eye, big as an apple, was filled<br />

with steady confidence and warmth.<br />

“Bury me here,” I mused. “When I die, bring my ashes<br />

to a moment like this and scatter <strong>the</strong>m.”<br />

My god! I’ve never thought that before! What’s got<br />

me by <strong>the</strong> throat?<br />

It was so clear it seemed silly that I hadn’t seen it<br />

before. That unthinkable energy that I was at a loss to<br />

name? It was power. Unthinkably massive power married<br />

to … kindness. Forty tons <strong>of</strong> constant, attentive, steadfast<br />

care.<br />

“Mummy” could break our necks with a casual flick <strong>of</strong><br />

one <strong>of</strong> her fins. Our boat, half her size, wouldn’t survive<br />

a breach on top <strong>of</strong> it.<br />

But what was she doing? Gently approaching, careful<br />

that her fins didn’t hit anyone, and slowly, as if trying<br />

not to startle us. Soon she would migrate north, navigate<br />

threats <strong>of</strong> ship strikes and fishing-gear entanglement<br />

and orcas attacking her calf. Despite all <strong>the</strong> changes in<br />

<strong>the</strong> seas that we have wrought, she would guide her calf<br />

north. She would forge on ahead.<br />

The calf turned slowly, as if on a spindle, and eyed<br />

us playfully. The pleats on its belly were unscarred, like<br />

<strong>the</strong> porcelain skin <strong>of</strong> a newborn baby. The mo<strong>the</strong>r calmly<br />

looked on. Our search was over. They were finding us<br />

now. a<br />

Liz Cunningham is currently touring to promote <strong>the</strong> book<br />

and raise awareness on climate change and water quality.<br />

Twenty-one percent <strong>of</strong> royalties will be given to <strong>the</strong><br />

New England Aquarium’s Marine Conservation Action<br />

Fund (MCAF), which aims to protect and promote ocean<br />

biodiversity through funding <strong>of</strong> small-scale, time-sensitive,<br />

community-based programs.<br />

The book is available on-island at <strong>the</strong> Unicorn<br />

Bookstore, through Amazon.com, and more than likely,<br />

at your favorite bookstore or library. For more information<br />

or to order <strong>the</strong> book, visit http://lizcunningham.net/<br />

ocean_country_<strong>the</strong>_book/.<br />

Book review<br />

Okay, I admit it. It’s really a treat to be able to read<br />

a book about a place you have lived and to be able to<br />

count among your friends most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people described<br />

within <strong>the</strong> pages. I am also fortunate to know and have<br />

dived with <strong>the</strong> author after we met to discuss ways in<br />

which she could help support <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef<br />

Fund.<br />

Not many people would change <strong>the</strong>ir way <strong>of</strong> thinking,<br />

doing, and being to try and save <strong>the</strong> very thing that<br />

nearly killed <strong>the</strong>m. Especially when that something is as<br />

all-encompassing as our oceans. This is not a simple<br />

“save <strong>the</strong> dog that bit me” exercise. Ocean Country is<br />

Liz Cunningham’s very personal journey which begins<br />

with a near fatal kayaking accident, her revisiting <strong>the</strong><br />

scene, and her overcoming her fear <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean.<br />

Instead, she dives headfirst — quite literally — into just<br />

how poorly humanity is treating our planet and how<br />

this behavior is killing <strong>the</strong> very thing that is responsible<br />

for life on Earth. It is a travelogue <strong>of</strong> sorts detailing her<br />

journey across <strong>the</strong> globe to observe and record firsthand<br />

what mankind has done to its home.<br />

Liz has a remarkable clarity <strong>of</strong> style which makes<br />

<strong>the</strong> book very easy reading, and a delightful read at<br />

that —considering <strong>the</strong> topic. It is an intensely personal<br />

story and she brings you into her head from <strong>the</strong> very<br />

first page. She compares her reluctance, acceptance,<br />

and ultimate enthusiasm to write Ocean Country with<br />

her first experience driving a motor bike. What this has<br />

to do with ocean conservation is not too clear until Liz<br />

connects <strong>the</strong> dots for you and <strong>the</strong> analogy is brilliant.<br />

Liz has clearly researched her facts and figures, and<br />

presents <strong>the</strong>m, not in a dull regurgitation <strong>of</strong> numbers<br />

way, but to drive <strong>the</strong> point home with such clarity as<br />

to make <strong>the</strong> reader stop and take note. Thirty-six percent<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Federal fisheries in <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico were<br />

closed after <strong>the</strong> Deepwater Horizon oil spill. How awful.<br />

That’s over eighty-six thousand square miles <strong>of</strong> ocean.<br />

Yeah, that’s a lot <strong>of</strong> ocean. Then she hits it home: That’s<br />

an area <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> Minnesota. Whoa! That’s huge!<br />

What should have been a depressing book about <strong>the</strong><br />

horrible way humans have mistreated our planet and<br />

seem hell-bent to destroy our oceans is anything but.<br />

Liz’s unbridled passion is clearly obvious and leaves<br />

<strong>the</strong> reader thinking that <strong>the</strong>re IS light at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

tunnel. And it doesn’t have to be a train. It’s hope.<br />

David Stone, co-founder, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 45


feature<br />

Opposite page: “King” is a severely injured dog that was rescued by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA and recovered under <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional care <strong>of</strong> Pampered Paws.<br />

King was literally skin and bone, with a huge swelling on his front right leg, when <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA rescued him from <strong>the</strong> streets <strong>of</strong> downtown<br />

Provo. Look at this beautiful dog today.<br />

Above: Donna Doran, owner <strong>of</strong> Pampered Paws, and TCSPCA Director Susan Blehr (with a recently rescued potcake) stand next to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />

“animal bus,” generously donated by Provo resident Larry Costa, parked outside <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice and clinic at Suzie Turn Plaza in Providenciales.<br />

A Voice for Those Who<br />

Cannot Speak<br />

TCSPCA has helped animals and <strong>the</strong>ir owners for nearly twenty years.<br />

The Turks & Caicos Society for <strong>the</strong> Prevention <strong>of</strong> Cruelty to Animals (TCSPCA) is <strong>the</strong> oldest established<br />

animal welfare organization in <strong>the</strong> country. There is no veterinary service on any <strong>of</strong> our islands except<br />

Providenciales, which is why <strong>the</strong> not-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it group is literally a necessity-<strong>of</strong>-life for <strong>the</strong> animals with<br />

whom we co-exist in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />

TCSPCA mobile clinics, held one to three times a year on each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sister islands, are <strong>the</strong> only time<br />

most animals receive any medical care. The <strong>of</strong>fice and clinic on Providenciales have been providing services<br />

to all <strong>the</strong> animals <strong>of</strong> Providenciales since August 2008. But long before that, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was helping<br />

animals and <strong>the</strong>ir owners.<br />

By Kathi Barrington ~ Photos Courtesy TCSPCA<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 47


And it’s not just dogs and cats that benefit. The original<br />

SPCA was founded in Grand Turk by Tom Saunders<br />

on January 5, 1998, to address <strong>the</strong> welfare <strong>of</strong> roaming<br />

cattle, donkeys, and horses. These animals are still monitored<br />

and <strong>of</strong>ten helped by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA today. In 2014<br />

<strong>the</strong> two traditional animal-accessible wells on Grand Turk<br />

were cleaned out and <strong>the</strong> troughs rebuilt, once again providing<br />

water to roaming animals, thanks to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA,<br />

funds from <strong>the</strong> Donkey Sanctuary, UK and help from <strong>the</strong><br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture. The TCSPCA on Provo has<br />

rescued and treated donkeys, goats, horses, pelicans, flamingoes,<br />

snakes, and geckoes as well as countless dogs<br />

and cats, and once, a manatee.<br />

Staffed by a handful <strong>of</strong> volunteers and funded solely<br />

through private donations and fund-raising, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />

has made a significant difference to all animals in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

for over 15 years. TCSPCA volunteers have earned <strong>the</strong><br />

trust <strong>of</strong> residents, <strong>the</strong> admiration and support <strong>of</strong> tourists<br />

and <strong>of</strong>f-island animal welfare organizations, and <strong>the</strong><br />

respect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government.<br />

TCSPCA’s first director and co-founder Beth Vankeep<br />

remembers when <strong>the</strong> Provo group was solidified as a<br />

working team. She called it <strong>the</strong> perfect storm. A pack <strong>of</strong><br />

wild dogs on <strong>the</strong> airport runway had prevented <strong>the</strong> newto-Providenciales<br />

American Airlines flight from landing.<br />

Not good. Add to that <strong>the</strong> “60 Minutes” reporter who was<br />

chased down “magical” Grace Bay Beach and bitten by a<br />

feral dog, and District Commissioner for Providencales<br />

Kingsley Been receiving daily nuisance dog reports from<br />

residents and hoteliers. Something had to happen.<br />

In September 2000, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was invited to <strong>the</strong><br />

first meeting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI Government’s newly formed<br />

Feral Dog Committee. Several months later, <strong>the</strong> government<br />

contracted <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA to carry out its Feral Dog<br />

Programme, with a humane trapping program designed<br />

by TCSPCA and endorsed by <strong>the</strong> Committee. With government<br />

funding behind <strong>the</strong>m and Beth Veenkamp as <strong>the</strong><br />

newly hired TCSPCA project manager, <strong>the</strong> small group got<br />

<strong>the</strong> ball rolling.<br />

The TCSPCA, with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Pegasus, a not for pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

animal welfare foundation, brought in pr<strong>of</strong>essional help.<br />

Owner <strong>of</strong> Wildlife Veterinary Resources (WVR) in Montana<br />

Dr. Mark Johnson and his team flew to Providenciales<br />

in August 2001 to help convince government that <strong>the</strong><br />

exploding wild dog problem had to be handled on many<br />

levels. Teach owners to be responsible and caring. Trap<br />

and humanely euthanize un-owned dogs. Spay or neuter<br />

pets. (A female dog comes into heat twice each year and<br />

can have a litter <strong>of</strong> up to 12 puppies. Do <strong>the</strong> math.) Draft,<br />

From top: It is not only cats and dogs that are helped by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA.<br />

Percy <strong>the</strong> Pelican was rescued and rehabilitated, along with countless<br />

donkeys being monitored and helped in <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>Islands</strong> today.<br />

MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

48 www.timespub.tc


pass, and enforce animal control legislation. Mark’s WVR<br />

team trained TCSPCA volunteers how, where, and why to<br />

set traps and most importantly, trained local residents<br />

Oliver Ferguson and Alco Williams to carry on <strong>the</strong> program.<br />

For three years <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA administered <strong>the</strong><br />

Programme and succeeded in humanely euthanising over<br />

2,000 un-owned dogs as well as spaying/neutering over<br />

800 dogs and cats.<br />

Weeks prior to setting traps, TCSPCA volunteers went<br />

yard to yard, handing out blue dog collars to people for<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir pets. They explained that any collared animal caught<br />

in a trap would be spayed or neutered and returned to its<br />

yard. Radio and newspaper ads also explained <strong>the</strong> massive<br />

project. Nobody wanted to accidentally kill an owned<br />

dog.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> initial “Kick Start” phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> program<br />

in 2001, Islanders rallied to this effort. Volunteers<br />

appeared as if by magic to help implement <strong>the</strong> trapping.<br />

The Graceway IGA provided meat scraps and bones to<br />

bait <strong>the</strong> traps. When volunteers quickly learned our wild<br />

dogs don’t “do” raw, Animal Control Officer Alco Williams<br />

cooked <strong>the</strong> scraps <strong>of</strong> raw meat bait. In three weeks <strong>the</strong><br />

Johnson team and TCSPCA volunteers trapped nearly<br />

500 dogs; 293 were humanely euthanized and 182 were<br />

spayed or neutered by Wooding Veterinary Services.<br />

Beth ran <strong>the</strong> organization out <strong>of</strong> a rented guest apartment<br />

at Madeline and Terry Erskine’s. She told me <strong>the</strong>y<br />

filled <strong>the</strong> place and <strong>the</strong> backyard with puppies and dogs<br />

during and after <strong>the</strong> trapping program. The Erskine’s two<br />

rescued horses, Hero and Cowboy, watched over this<br />

motley crew. The imported trapping team fell in love with<br />

our potcakes, and several took pups home with <strong>the</strong>m to<br />

<strong>the</strong> USA. Thus began <strong>the</strong> TCPSCA’s <strong>of</strong>f-island adoption<br />

programme. Today it is simple and easy to adopt a potcake<br />

or potcat. More than 200 animals start new lives in<br />

<strong>the</strong> USA or Canada each year.<br />

By this time <strong>the</strong> organization had formed a Board <strong>of</strong><br />

Directors, under <strong>the</strong> presidency <strong>of</strong> Kingsley Been, whose<br />

mandate was to ensure all animals in <strong>the</strong> TCI were cared<br />

for and free from abuse. Two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original Board, Peggy<br />

Perkins and Barbara Young, are still active directors<br />

today.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> height <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> choreographed chaos <strong>of</strong> trapping,<br />

spaying, and neutering, Beth discovered she was<br />

pregnant. In April 2002 she returned to Canada with her<br />

husband. Before she left, she convinced volunteer Susan<br />

Blehr to take over <strong>the</strong> helm as director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA.<br />

The changing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> guard was simple. Beth handed<br />

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Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />

E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 49


to Susan <strong>the</strong> cell phone and <strong>the</strong> computer. Susan recalls<br />

that <strong>the</strong> very next day she was fostering a litter <strong>of</strong> eight<br />

puppies on her back deck. She’d never owned a dog in her<br />

life and her cat was not amused by <strong>the</strong> intruders. Today<br />

she and her husband, Bob-<strong>the</strong>-Dog-Whisperer Blehr, have<br />

a pack. Each was once considered unadoptable.<br />

Susan, with Bob at her back, ran <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA from<br />

home until 2003. An experienced manager and networker,<br />

she and volunteers set up foster homes for<br />

puppies and kittens. Louise Henderson was hired as <strong>the</strong><br />

TCSPCA educational <strong>of</strong>ficer to go into all <strong>the</strong> schools to<br />

talk about caring, responsible pet ownership and <strong>the</strong><br />

importance <strong>of</strong> vaccinations and spay/neuter. The TCSPCA<br />

worked with government to draft legislation to protect<br />

animals and people. They continued to encourage people<br />

to have <strong>the</strong>ir pets sterilized and worked tirelessly picking<br />

up animals, delivering <strong>the</strong>m for free surgery, and <strong>the</strong>n<br />

returning <strong>the</strong>m home. The number <strong>of</strong> dog attacks and<br />

calls about nuisance dogs abated dramatically.<br />

In 2003 <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA secured a small <strong>of</strong>fice upstairs in<br />

Suzie Turn Plaza, which made Susan’s home life slightly<br />

less chaotic. Then in 2004, after <strong>the</strong> government decided<br />

to take <strong>the</strong> Feral Dog Programme in-house, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />

went into fundraising mode and <strong>the</strong> Just for Fun Dog<br />

Show (<strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> which was held in 2002 in <strong>the</strong> Graceway<br />

IGA parking lot,) became a vital source <strong>of</strong> revenue to continue<br />

to pay for <strong>the</strong> free spay/neuter programme.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> feral dog population exploded again in<br />

2004, government reached out to contract <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA<br />

again, to bring Mark Johnson’s team back to trap and<br />

euthanize or spay/neuter dogs, as temporary, stop-gap<br />

measures to control animals in areas frequented by tourists.<br />

Without consistent funding, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was finding<br />

it difficult to subsidize <strong>the</strong>ir spay/neuter/vaccination program<br />

for <strong>the</strong> river <strong>of</strong> Islanders who wanted to do <strong>the</strong> right<br />

thing for <strong>the</strong>ir pets. Although <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA received donations<br />

from supporters and funds from resident Hea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Forbes’ Potcake Foundation, <strong>the</strong>y realized that <strong>the</strong>y simply<br />

could not continue paying for veterinary services.<br />

However, ano<strong>the</strong>r perfect storm was brewing. In<br />

2007 an outbreak <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> deadly canine distemper virus<br />

swept <strong>the</strong> island. The TCSPCA reacted swiftly, obtaining<br />

thousands <strong>of</strong> donated vials <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vaccination against <strong>the</strong><br />

terrible disease. Anyone who had ever administered a<br />

subcutaneous injection was enlisted to go door to door<br />

in <strong>the</strong> communities to administer <strong>the</strong> vaccination to pets<br />

in yards and homes. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> volunteers was a retired<br />

veterinarian, Dr. Rich Sefcik.<br />

Several pets did succumb to distemper, but many<br />

more did not. And Dr. Sefcik, who had bought a house<br />

on Provo in 2004 and retired to <strong>the</strong> island with his wife<br />

Jan, <strong>of</strong>fered to perform spays and neuters, part-time, for<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCSPCA as a volunteer vet. However, <strong>the</strong>y would need<br />

a clinic to perform <strong>the</strong> surgeries and care for <strong>the</strong> animals<br />

before and after <strong>the</strong> procedure.<br />

Enter Annie Notley. She and her husband Simon<br />

were visiting Provo and heard <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA. After meetings<br />

and consults with Susan, she donated $35,000 to<br />

<strong>the</strong> organization to secure a small spay/neuter clinic.<br />

Fortunately, <strong>the</strong>re was a vacant room for rent at Suzie<br />

Turn Plaza so Dr. Rich designed and equipped <strong>the</strong> clinic,<br />

and in August 2008 he performed <strong>the</strong> first surgery in <strong>the</strong><br />

new clinic.<br />

This photo <strong>of</strong> Annie Notley and Dr. Rich Sefcik was taken on <strong>the</strong> day<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first surgery in <strong>the</strong> new TCSPCA clinic in August 2008.<br />

Five mornings a week, for almost five years, Dr. Rich<br />

advised and reassured pet owners. He spayed or neutered<br />

almost 3,000 dogs and cats. His quiet confidence<br />

and wicked sense <strong>of</strong> humour made it easy for a diverse<br />

group <strong>of</strong> volunteers to happily work with him. Owners<br />

and <strong>the</strong>ir pets responded positively to him. In short, he<br />

was a Godsend.<br />

With Dr. Rich in situ, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA was able to realize<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir most important goals — to take veterinary<br />

care to all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In 2010 <strong>the</strong><br />

TCSPCA team packed <strong>the</strong>ir eight-year-old animal bus with<br />

everything <strong>the</strong>y needed to perform surgeries and wellness<br />

checks, and shipped <strong>the</strong> van to Sandy Point, North<br />

Caicos. They <strong>the</strong>n drove to Blue Horizon Resort on Middle<br />

Caicos, where <strong>the</strong>y set up <strong>the</strong> surgery in a warehouse<br />

space <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA has held clinics on all <strong>the</strong> out<br />

50 www.timespub.tc


islands and Grand Turk. The goal is to hold two clinics a<br />

year on each island during <strong>the</strong> breeding seasons.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r milestone was <strong>the</strong> re-launching <strong>of</strong> a Grand<br />

Turk chapter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA in 2011, which <strong>the</strong>n held its<br />

first spay/neuter clinic that August. The Grand Turk volunteers<br />

run a shop in <strong>the</strong> cruise ship center to raise funds<br />

and <strong>the</strong>y sell basic animal care supplies to pet owners.<br />

Years <strong>of</strong> hard work, community outreach, and most<br />

importantly, education by <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA paid <strong>of</strong>f in large<br />

numbers <strong>of</strong> pet owners bringing <strong>the</strong>ir animals to <strong>the</strong> Suzy<br />

Turn clinic for vaccinations, heart worm preventatives,<br />

and affordable spay or neuter surgeries. The word was<br />

out — being a responsible pet owner made everyone’s<br />

life easier and better. And <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> axe fell again. Dr. Rich<br />

and Jan decided to return to <strong>the</strong> United States. They sold<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir home and said an emotional good-bye in May 2013.<br />

Besides losing dear friends, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA faced a crisis<br />

—no veterinary care. Would <strong>the</strong> clinic/shop survive? Once<br />

again Blehr rose to <strong>the</strong> challenge. She found veterinary<br />

groups which travel across <strong>the</strong> world to provide veterinary<br />

care to places where no care is available.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> first clinic after Dr. Rich had gone, held<br />

on Provo in October 2013, Dr. Jessica Braun and vet tech<br />

Kristine Bucholz performed 134 spay or neuter surgeries<br />

in five days. Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA has held more than<br />

a dozen clinics, covering all <strong>the</strong> islands. During <strong>the</strong> most<br />

recent clinic in November, Dr. Meghann Vollmer Kruck, <strong>of</strong><br />

Kindest Cut in Minnesota, and two <strong>of</strong> her vet techs performed<br />

107 surgeries in five days. Dr. Kruck will be back<br />

for a month in late spring 20<strong>16</strong>.<br />

For fifteen years, <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA has worked with <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI residents through day to day community outreach on<br />

each island, in each village, and reliable, non-judgmental,<br />

affordable services to pet owners in <strong>the</strong>ir yards, homes,<br />

or at <strong>the</strong> Suzie Turn clinic. They are supported by many<br />

island businesses, organizations, and resorts.<br />

Pampered Paws, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s only boarding, grooming,<br />

and training facility has provided runs for TCSPCA<br />

pups since 2002. Each year owner Donna Doran and her<br />

wonderful staff provide “room and board,” medical care,<br />

training, and loads <strong>of</strong> TLC to hundreds <strong>of</strong> pups and older<br />

dogs, many who are in truly terrible physical and emotional<br />

condition when <strong>the</strong>y arrive.<br />

Lew Handfield Shipping and interCaribbean Airways<br />

have been providing discounted or free transportation<br />

to <strong>the</strong> organization from <strong>the</strong> early days. TCI First<br />

Insurance insures <strong>the</strong> animal bus at no charge. Hea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Forbes’ Potcake Foundation raises funds each year for<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCSPCA. Provo residents John Thomas and Jessica<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 51


From top: Dr. Meghann Vollmer Kruck, <strong>of</strong> Kindest Cut in Minnesota,<br />

regularly holds spay/neuter clinic in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

The annual TCSPCA dog show is community-centered and very popular.<br />

The judges (shown here) don’t take <strong>the</strong>ir job TOO seriously.<br />

The author’s dog, MottLee and husband Mike were winners <strong>of</strong> “Looks<br />

Most Like Owner.”<br />

Kyle have recently come on scene, establishing Potcake<br />

Project, a non-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization that provides funds<br />

to rescue, rehab, and re-home older potcakes. They also<br />

pay visiting vet teams’ airfare.<br />

Long Bay homeowner Larry Costa learned that <strong>the</strong><br />

TCSPCA urgently needed to replace <strong>the</strong>ir 13-year-old “animal<br />

bus.” He found, bought, and shipped a new E-250<br />

Extended Cargo Van to Provo in January <strong>2015</strong>. The van<br />

was inaugurated in April when it was shipped to North<br />

Caicos for a mobile clinic <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

TCSPCA fundraisers are community centered and<br />

hugely popular: The calendar, begun in 2005, features<br />

loving portraits <strong>of</strong> rescued animals from across <strong>the</strong>se<br />

islands; <strong>the</strong> annual “Just for Fun” Dog Show, under <strong>the</strong><br />

tent provided by Turtle Cove Marina; <strong>the</strong> now famous<br />

Beach Bonfire BBQ hosted by Kissing Fish Catering at Bay<br />

Bistro’s beachfront restaurant and <strong>the</strong> Christmas Fair with<br />

Santa’s Grotto. All are put on by <strong>the</strong> volunteers and local<br />

businesses. Donations from residents and tourists are<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir o<strong>the</strong>r source <strong>of</strong> funds.<br />

Director Susan Blehr knows that <strong>the</strong> organization has<br />

made a huge difference to <strong>the</strong> lives and well being <strong>of</strong><br />

thousands <strong>of</strong> animals and to pet owners on every island.<br />

The community outreach programmes and <strong>the</strong> affordable<br />

spay/neuter/vaccination clinics on <strong>the</strong> sister islands have<br />

achieved an obvious, quantifiable decrease in unwanted,<br />

MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

52 www.timespub.tc


This is one <strong>of</strong> Pampered Paws’s obedience classes. The last dog on <strong>the</strong> right, with Pampered Paws’s owner Donna Doran, is Legend, an older<br />

potcake rescued from <strong>the</strong> Beaches roundabout. He came to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA in horrific condition, and he’d never been touched by a human hand.<br />

He became a super, people-oriented, lover <strong>of</strong> a dog. It is wonderful what loving care at Pampered Paws can do.<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 53


Kathryn is a founding member <strong>of</strong><br />

Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />

Association formed in 2000. She<br />

was instrumental in writing and<br />

implementing <strong>the</strong> manual for <strong>the</strong><br />

Association as well as Rules and<br />

Regulations for <strong>the</strong> membership.<br />

In 2007 she was voted <strong>the</strong> first<br />

TCREA Ambassador by her peers. In 2009/10 she was part <strong>of</strong> a<br />

Team that wrote <strong>the</strong> first Training Manual for TCREA; all new<br />

members are required to complete <strong>the</strong> course and final exam<br />

before being accepted as full members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association. She<br />

served as President <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association for five years (2008-<br />

2013), as well as serving on many TCREA committees, some <strong>of</strong><br />

which she still serves.<br />

Kathryn started her real estate career in Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> where<br />

she worked for ERA for a number <strong>of</strong> years until her move to<br />

TCI ERA Coralie Properties Ltd in 2000; she was brought to<br />

implement <strong>the</strong> ERA system and manage <strong>the</strong> operation for <strong>the</strong><br />

newly franchised Coralie Properties. Over <strong>the</strong> years Kathryn<br />

has become an active partner shareholder and Director <strong>of</strong> ERA<br />

Coralie Properties Ltd., as well as being a successful sales<br />

associate, consistently being in <strong>the</strong> top ten.<br />

A background in interior design and retail fit well with a real<br />

estate career; working well with people, high standard <strong>of</strong><br />

pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism, integrity and quality service. Kathryn has<br />

many repeat customers as well as a strong referral network.<br />

If you want to learn about real estate in Turks & Caicos give<br />

Kathryn a call, she will be pleased to meet you and help with<br />

your real estate needs, wants, dreams...<br />

Tel: 649 231 2329<br />

Email: krbrown@era.tc<br />

Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com<br />

Kathryn<br />

Brown<br />

ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.<br />

unowned animals. The goal that every animal has a home<br />

is doable on <strong>the</strong> sister islands. Their stray dog populations<br />

and <strong>the</strong>ir owned animal figures, compared to Provo,<br />

are small. The target — to get 70% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals spayed<br />

or neutered — is realistic. That’s <strong>the</strong> magic number<br />

required to achieve decreasing populations, ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />

an increasing number <strong>of</strong> animals each year.<br />

However, that is not <strong>the</strong> case on Providenciales. Well<br />

documented research by experts in animal population<br />

control have shown that no amount <strong>of</strong> spay/neuters<br />

will affect <strong>the</strong> large, roaming dog population on Provo.<br />

The cold hard fact is that unless one ownerless dog is<br />

rendered incapable <strong>of</strong> reproducing for each pet that is<br />

spayed or neutered, animal control efforts will fail.<br />

Without an organized, humane, compassionate, trapping/euthanization<br />

programme on this island, for at least<br />

a year, <strong>the</strong> feral dog population will continue to increase.<br />

Sadly, many <strong>of</strong> our native potcakes will die <strong>of</strong> starvation<br />

or dehydration, disease, or car accidents. But many more<br />

will survive, and <strong>the</strong>y will bear more puppies.<br />

For now, Director Blehr focuses on <strong>the</strong> many accomplishments<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA: <strong>the</strong> spaying or neutering <strong>of</strong><br />

more than 5,000 dogs; <strong>the</strong> adoptions, on and <strong>of</strong>f-island,<br />

<strong>of</strong> more than 1,000 potcakes and potcats; <strong>the</strong> rescue and<br />

rehab <strong>of</strong> older animals, <strong>of</strong>ten in appalling, heart breaking<br />

condition, that have evoked <strong>the</strong> sympathy and support<br />

<strong>of</strong> residents and visitors. Unintended animal cruelty by<br />

owners, due to insufficient education about things like<br />

ear and tail cropping, are now rare. The TCSPCA has<br />

clearly seen that <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> animal owners here want<br />

to do <strong>the</strong> right thing for <strong>the</strong>ir pets, and <strong>the</strong>y know <strong>the</strong>y<br />

can come to <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA for help, no matter what. That’s<br />

what <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA is all about.<br />

Susan wanted <strong>the</strong> last word in this article: “Without<br />

our volunteers, <strong>the</strong>re would be no TCSPCA. They are<br />

always <strong>the</strong>re, always willing, and always caring. I have<br />

learned from <strong>the</strong>m, as I hope <strong>the</strong>y have from me, and<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r we try our best to live our motto: Be <strong>the</strong> voice<br />

for those who cannot speak.” a<br />

If you support <strong>the</strong> TCSPCA, you are helping all <strong>the</strong> animals<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country, making it a better place for <strong>the</strong> animals,<br />

all residents, and visitors. Please visit www.tcspca.com<br />

or contact us at tcscpa@tciway.tc. You can also follow us<br />

on FaceBook for <strong>the</strong> latest happenings.<br />

54 www.timespub.tc


ADVERTISEMENT<br />

3 Positive Forces Set to Reward<br />

Property Investors Greatly In 20<strong>16</strong><br />

Greg McNally first started working as<br />

a young lawyer in Turks and Caicos (TCI)<br />

more than 23 years ago. As a founding<br />

partner <strong>of</strong> what was once one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

largest law firms on Provo, he quickly<br />

became a fixture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local business<br />

scene, playing a part in numerous high<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>ile developments including The<br />

Sands Resort, Northwest Point Resort<br />

and The Island Club on Grace Bay Road.<br />

And although he’s enjoyed much<br />

success from <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong><br />

TCI over <strong>the</strong> past few decades, he believes<br />

<strong>the</strong> trends are pointing to a new<br />

renaissance in local investment.<br />

“It’s all about <strong>the</strong> trends.,” says Mc-<br />

Nally. “Wealthier Canadian and American<br />

travellers who stopped coming<br />

after <strong>the</strong> financial crash are now returning,<br />

pushing up <strong>the</strong> prices on <strong>the</strong> rental market. That’s causing<br />

certain vacationers to look closely at <strong>the</strong> property market, pushing<br />

up sale prices. And <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>re’s a whole new audience from<br />

Asia and South America entering <strong>the</strong> TCI market for <strong>the</strong> first time.<br />

Investors who get in early should benefit greatly.“<br />

North Americans Are Returning in Big Numbers<br />

Prior to 2008, Turks and Caicos was very popular for North<br />

American travellers, especially from East Coast financial centres<br />

like New York and Toronto. But with <strong>the</strong> recession came a dramatic<br />

pullback that hit TCI hard as <strong>the</strong> jet setters sharply reduced<br />

spending.<br />

According to McNally, that has now changed. “As wealthy Canadians<br />

and Americans return, <strong>the</strong>y are choosing to rent. This<br />

has caused <strong>the</strong> rental market to explode. In <strong>the</strong> past year, my investment<br />

penthouse in Grace Bay has been booked out almost<br />

solid - even during <strong>of</strong>f-season. It’s been quite lucrative.”<br />

The result? It is pushing some wealthy renters into buying.<br />

Growing Property Market to Push Up Prices<br />

Properties like this 4,000 sq. ft. villa are set to appreciate greatly thanks to three powerful trends.<br />

“The guys out <strong>of</strong> Toronto and New York are smart. They see<br />

that spending $20,000 for a two week rental isn’t <strong>the</strong> best use <strong>of</strong><br />

money. So <strong>the</strong>y’re looking closely at <strong>the</strong> property market again.”<br />

In McNally’s mind, this will soon lead to appreciation in certain<br />

types <strong>of</strong> property <strong>the</strong> affluent jet setters want. In fact, his<br />

latest venture, Caya Private Residences, is set to help smart vacationers<br />

capitalize on this trend. “I spotted an opportunity to help<br />

<strong>the</strong>se investors turn <strong>the</strong>ir rental expense into a real asset with<br />

high potential for long-term capital appreciation.”<br />

Whole New Markets Increase Demand<br />

But arguably <strong>the</strong> most important trend in McNally’s eyes is<br />

<strong>the</strong> attraction <strong>of</strong> Asians and South Americans to TCI.<br />

“The people buying and building here are much different<br />

than when I first started years ago. Back <strong>the</strong>n, it was mostly<br />

wealthy finance folks from <strong>the</strong> US and Canada. Now we’ve seen<br />

different groups starting to take a real interest and invest real<br />

money. This is <strong>the</strong> most exciting long term positive force for TCI.”<br />

For example, Marriott has announced a project in <strong>the</strong> famous<br />

beach area <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay. According to McNally, “What most<br />

people don’t know is that <strong>the</strong> project is backed by a group <strong>of</strong><br />

Venezuelans. Their economy, as with many in <strong>the</strong> area that relied<br />

on commodities, is in rough shape. They are looking to diversify<br />

and are bringing serious money to <strong>the</strong> area.”<br />

How to Capitalize on <strong>the</strong>se Trends<br />

If you’re interested in learning how you too could benefit<br />

from <strong>the</strong>se trends, McNally is <strong>of</strong>fering a free investment guide to<br />

qualified investors. You’ll discover how to buy TCI property for as<br />

much as 20% under market rate.<br />

Call 1-888-534-9021<br />

(or internationally: +1-4<strong>16</strong>-900-3522)


feature<br />

Opposite page: The two-mile stretch <strong>of</strong> beach along Pine Cay’s north shore is indeed “one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean’s last great untrammeled beaches.”<br />

Above: This is an aerial view <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay as you approach from <strong>the</strong> east. The air strip neatly bisects <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

Treasuring Pine Cay<br />

The evolution <strong>of</strong> a private island community.<br />

By Sara Kaufman, Manager, Forbes, Forbes & Forbes Realty Ltd.<br />

Photos By Paradise Photography<br />

Just as <strong>the</strong> true Caribbean pine is a tree unique to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, Pine Cay is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />

special treasures. Not only is it a rare stronghold <strong>of</strong> this endangered tree, but Pine Cay has a fascinating<br />

history and a promising future. Since 1960 it has been a focus for development, and fifty years later it<br />

stands apart as a bright and refreshing option for those wishing to indulge in true Caribbean relaxation!<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 57


Pine Cay is a beautiful 800 acre private island<br />

tucked among <strong>the</strong> Caicos Cays, with a 2,800-foot<br />

airstrip, sheltered marina, and boutique hotel, that<br />

is home to an exclusive membership community.<br />

Amazingly, it was settled in <strong>the</strong> 1970s when <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were totally unknown, with no regular<br />

transport <strong>of</strong> any kind in and out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country, or<br />

even between <strong>the</strong> various islands. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original<br />

owners on Pine Cay actually sailed in local sloops from<br />

South Caicos—<strong>the</strong> international airport and TCI port <strong>of</strong><br />

entry at that time—to get to <strong>the</strong>ir property!<br />

Until <strong>the</strong> 1990s, <strong>the</strong> entire country was an obscure<br />

pinpoint on <strong>the</strong> global map, scarcely noticed even<br />

within <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Only about 7,000 local residents<br />

populated <strong>the</strong> seven inhabited islands, with no tourist<br />

industry or o<strong>the</strong>r businesses in place. The 1970s<br />

were <strong>the</strong> heyday <strong>of</strong> aviation pioneers—private pilots<br />

and low-budget airlines exploring remote nooks and<br />

crannies throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean to find unspoiled<br />

paradise. Both pilots and passengers were eager to live<br />

in <strong>the</strong> sun and create a special home for <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />

Early pioneers on Pine Cay relished <strong>the</strong> isolation<br />

and tranquility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island, along with <strong>the</strong> incredible<br />

fishing, despite <strong>the</strong> many inconveniences. The challenge<br />

<strong>of</strong> getting to <strong>the</strong> island was part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fun and<br />

adventure. The development <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay underwent<br />

changes in concept, owners, and developers during<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1970s as <strong>the</strong> reality <strong>of</strong> creating a private island<br />

resort became more evident. These early concepts<br />

ranged from a high density resort island <strong>of</strong> over 400<br />

lots, with commercial sections, fly-in capacity, and<br />

a major hotel compound to a very exclusive retreat<br />

island for a small private group <strong>of</strong> families championing<br />

privacy.<br />

The hardy folk who purchased property on Pine<br />

Cay in <strong>the</strong> early days <strong>of</strong> its development included business<br />

tycoons, European royalty, and various eccentrics<br />

who toge<strong>the</strong>r worked hard over many years to combine<br />

<strong>the</strong> land, concepts, and investors into a feasible<br />

plan. The solution adopted was to set up a home owners’<br />

association with a serious set <strong>of</strong> rules to protect<br />

and preserve <strong>the</strong> island. As a result, Pine Cay is <strong>the</strong><br />

longest established private member community in <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean and stands firmly on <strong>the</strong> original goals in<br />

a world <strong>of</strong> change. Some rules survive to this day. For<br />

instance, only indigenous plants are allowed and no<br />

private pools, to conserve <strong>the</strong> precious freshwater lens<br />

underground. Cars are not allowed — only electric golf<br />

carts—to reduce noise and pollution. Yet in acknowledgment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> modern world, <strong>the</strong> ban on telephones<br />

and TV has been lifted!<br />

Building in Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, especially forty<br />

years ago, was a great challenge as <strong>the</strong> country had<br />

little infrastructure, all materials had to be shipped<br />

to Pine Cay, and workers, supervisors, and technical<br />

advisors had to be brought over as well. Despite this<br />

logistical nightmare, members slowly built <strong>the</strong>ir family<br />

homes and a secure private marina, completed a safe<br />

airstrip, and created a boutique hotel with gourmet<br />

restaurant.<br />

Fishing–bonefishing in this case–is still a popular pastime in <strong>the</strong> shimmering flats <strong>of</strong>f Pine Cay’s sou<strong>the</strong>rn shores.<br />

58 www.timespub.tc


Peaceful freshwater ponds dot <strong>the</strong> Pine Cay landscape; this one is quite close to <strong>the</strong> ocean shore.<br />

The Pine Cay Homeowners Association is a very<br />

active and hands-on member group, keeping <strong>the</strong><br />

vision <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay moving forward successfully while<br />

retaining <strong>the</strong> magic that drew <strong>the</strong>m all to <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

The Meridian Club has achieved well-deserved<br />

fame over <strong>the</strong> years, attracting stellar reviews for <strong>the</strong><br />

“old style Caribbean” appeal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hotel, <strong>the</strong> peace<br />

and privacy to be enjoyed, <strong>the</strong> attentive and friendly<br />

local staff, and <strong>the</strong> natural beauty surrounding it. The<br />

Meridian Club is a small and intimate resort with only<br />

thirteen rooms, directly on <strong>the</strong> glorious beach with private<br />

patios and superb dining. Villas are also for rent<br />

on <strong>the</strong> island. Visit www.meridanclub.com to find out<br />

more and book your Pine Cay experience.<br />

The Meridian Club’s pool/patio area is steps from <strong>the</strong> glorious beach.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 59


Clockwise from top left: Pine Cay’s arrival dock welcomes guests arriving by boat from <strong>the</strong> Leeward dock in Provo. Guests on Pine Cay are<br />

provided hobie cat sailboats and kayaks to explore <strong>the</strong> surrounding waters. There is a 2,800 foot airstrip for members’ private planes. In spite<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> modern airstrip, this homey sign welcomes you.<br />

60 www.timespub.tc


Accolades from famous travel writers extoll:<br />

• “A delightful air <strong>of</strong> natural simplicity and barefoot<br />

informality characterizes this enchanting escapist<br />

gem where sophisticated island purists unwind along<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean’s last great untrammeled<br />

beaches.” Hideaway Report<br />

• “Mind-altering tranquility, as well as delicious<br />

food, an attentive staff, and a perfect two-mile long<br />

beach . . . The atmosphere here is old-money casual:<br />

men are asked to wear collared shirts to dinner, but<br />

shoes are optional.” Expedia Travels magazine<br />

This unique capital asset is jointly owned by <strong>the</strong><br />

Pine Cay members, and in essence The Meridian Club<br />

hotel has become <strong>the</strong> members’ country club for lunch,<br />

<strong>the</strong> pool, <strong>the</strong> bar, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice conveniences and for elegant<br />

evening dining. The beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> turquoise sea<br />

floods your eyes as you sit on <strong>the</strong> pool deck under<br />

a tiki palmtop shade, savouring a delectable meal—<br />

amazement indeed that this is available three hours<br />

from New York City! The accessibility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is a huge factor in <strong>the</strong> growing popularity<br />

<strong>of</strong> this destination, and yet Pine Cay remains calm<br />

and untouched, unhurried, a rare treasure.<br />

Admittedly, <strong>the</strong> image <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay over <strong>the</strong> years<br />

was <strong>of</strong> a spartan, rustic, even snobbish private island<br />

espousing a minimalist lifestyle and cherishing privacy<br />

with fervor. Today, a beautiful boutique resort<br />

and intriguing member families share <strong>the</strong>ir pristine<br />

island and welcome visitors. The fishing, snorkeling,<br />

kiteboarding, sailing, kayaking, biking, nature trails,<br />

and fabulous beaches all <strong>of</strong>fer splendid ways to spend<br />

your days on Pine Cay. The members come from many<br />

walks <strong>of</strong> life, creating a warm and eclectic community<br />

that desired a retreat and respected environmental<br />

ethics to ensure a pristine future. Now, early members,<br />

second-generation members, and new members<br />

from <strong>the</strong> USA, Canada, France, England, Germany, and<br />

Switzerland share <strong>the</strong> same love and vision for Pine<br />

Cay.<br />

Along with <strong>the</strong> natural environment, members<br />

esteem Pine Cay’s social environment. The staff are<br />

predominantly from nearby islands such as North<br />

Caicos, and many have worked at Pine Cay for most<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir adult lives, building strong friendships with<br />

member-families over <strong>the</strong> years. Pine Cay members<br />

have set a very high standard for educating <strong>the</strong> staff<br />

and supporting local heritage and traditional culture.<br />

Formally, <strong>the</strong> Pine Cay Foundation was set up as a<br />

charity organization to work across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

Forbes, Forbes & Forbes, Ltd.<br />

Properties for Sale on Pine Cay<br />

Orchid Point - Three bedroom beachhouse, huge views<br />

<br />

Sandcastle - <br />

<br />

SandDollar Point - <br />

<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Pond - <br />

<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Channel - <br />

<br />

Pine Cay Realty Services cell: 1-649-231-4884<br />

www.pinecayrealty.com info@pinecayrealty.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 61


30Years<br />

Assisting domestic and international clients for over 30 years<br />

Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848<br />

Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> <strong>of</strong>fering support for literacy, schools, computers,<br />

and scholarships. The original science fair held on<br />

Pine Cay for promising young students was a trailblazing<br />

success and became a touchstone for foundation<br />

goals.<br />

Slowly change has come to Pine Cay—gracefully,<br />

step by step—to complete a makeover across<br />

<strong>the</strong> island. The daily challenges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> early days are<br />

gone as <strong>the</strong> attentive staff makes sure every need is<br />

met, both for hotel guests and homeowners. In <strong>the</strong><br />

past five years, The Meridian Club has seen a total<br />

refresh to <strong>the</strong> pool, patio deck, and hotel rooms, with<br />

new outdoor dining pavilions, an open lobby <strong>of</strong>fice<br />

and shop, with <strong>the</strong> outdoor tennis courts resurfaced,<br />

and a family beach picnic area completed. The island<br />

power supply and infrastructure has been newly laid<br />

and vastly increased, with solar hot water installation<br />

totally functional.<br />

The marina has been updated with a fleet <strong>of</strong><br />

Parker vessels acquired for transport to and from<br />

Providenciales, and a bonefishing boat, snorkeling<br />

excursion pontoon boat, and Kingfisher deep sea craft<br />

ready to explore all <strong>the</strong> best fishing and snorkeling<br />

spots. A full service marina is maintained, with boat<br />

slips for vessels up to 30 feet in length. Near <strong>the</strong> airstrip,<br />

covered boat storage is available <strong>of</strong>f season and<br />

mechanics are on hand to ensure your boat is always<br />

ready to go.<br />

A fabulous beachfront home was completed in<br />

late 2014 and extensive modernizations and expansion<br />

projects have been completed on many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

older cottages. The original homes built on Pine Cay<br />

typically included 1,200 to 1,500 square feet <strong>of</strong> living<br />

space, and were mostly wooden pod designs raised on<br />

pilings, with small kitchens (as most <strong>of</strong>ten members<br />

ate toge<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> Meridian Club!) The most recent<br />

home built is almost 4,000 square feet, an attractive<br />

two story design with open plan, infinity-view living<br />

room.<br />

The evolution <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay has led to <strong>the</strong> current<br />

complementarity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tiny (yet magnificent) boutique<br />

resort hotel and <strong>the</strong> intriguing (yet slightly eccentric)<br />

membership community <strong>of</strong> homeowners who amicably<br />

share <strong>the</strong> island. This is a unique development,<br />

whereby 600 acres and all capital assets are under<br />

shared ownership, yet members hold <strong>the</strong>ir own properties<br />

under separate title. Decisions for <strong>the</strong> island are<br />

taken toge<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> PCHA’s annual general meeting,<br />

with many owners on island to actively engage in <strong>the</strong><br />

62 www.timespub.tc


Seaquester, Pine Cay<br />

Twenty-five years ago, <strong>the</strong> owners <strong>of</strong> this hidden gem sought a large shoreline property on a tranquil beach with warm turquoise waters <strong>of</strong>fering<br />

serenity. With 500 feet <strong>of</strong> frontage and 5.6 acres, this home site is perfect for expanding <strong>the</strong> family compound or in its current form as a lovingly<br />

maintained 2 bedroom island retreat with interior space totaling 1,200 sq. ft. and over 600 sq. ft. wrap around private terrace complemented on<br />

<strong>the</strong> exterior areas by thoughtful indigenous-style landscaping and resident lime trees. Offered fully furnished, it has been updated throughout and<br />

is in move-in condition.<br />

Offered at $3,200,000 | turksandcaicosSIR.com | MLS# 1500103<br />

Dee Agingu<br />

t 649.946.4474 c 649.231.3534<br />

dee@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

Nina Siegenthaler<br />

t 649.946.4474 c 649.231.0707<br />

nina@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

Koala Run, Pine Cay<br />

Koala Run is a meticulously maintained home with 300’ <strong>of</strong> frontage on <strong>the</strong> Channel with 1,750 SF <strong>of</strong> indoor living space, including three bedrooms<br />

and three bathrooms, as well as, 1,000 SF <strong>of</strong> private terrace and raised viewing platform for <strong>the</strong> outdoor living we all crave here on <strong>the</strong> islands.<br />

On entering Koala Run, your body and mind immediately relaxes to match <strong>the</strong> peace and tranquility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spectacular turquoise ocean views.<br />

Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three bedrooms plus <strong>the</strong> open plan living/dining/kitchen areas all enjoy water views. The home is <strong>of</strong>fered fully furnished and equipped<br />

as a turn-key home including inflatable 6 person Dinghy with new engine, 2 bicycles, 3 kayaks with safety equipment, 2 golf carts, and fishing gear.<br />

Imelda Burke<br />

t 649.946.4474 c 649.242.1241<br />

imelda@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

Offered at $1,049,000<br />

turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />

MLS# 1500675<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 63


This aerial shot shows <strong>the</strong> lovely curve <strong>of</strong> Pine Cay’s beach.<br />

discussion. Christmas and Easter vacations bring most<br />

families to <strong>the</strong> island, opening doors to friendships<br />

that last generations and span continents.<br />

The security <strong>of</strong> your investment in property<br />

on Pine Cay is grounded in <strong>the</strong> limited membership<br />

devoted to assuring long term protection <strong>of</strong> this pristine<br />

natural island. In context <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

real estate, Pine Cay has held its value well. While purchasing<br />

property on Pine Cay entails membership in <strong>the</strong><br />

community and <strong>the</strong> associated financial obligations, it<br />

also secures long term investment value—ownership<br />

within an 800 acre private Caribbean island, with 600<br />

acres <strong>of</strong> open space, is a rare treasure. The amenities<br />

and staff <strong>of</strong> The Meridian Club are a very positive factor<br />

in <strong>the</strong> long term investment value <strong>of</strong> property.<br />

Come to visit Pine Cay to experience it for yourself—its<br />

charm will astound you. In uncertain times,<br />

well-placed property has always been a solid investment<br />

choice and when you walk <strong>the</strong> sparkling beach<br />

along <strong>the</strong> turquoise shoreline in quiet seclusion, you<br />

will realize <strong>the</strong> true value is priceless.<br />

Homes and properties for sale on Pine Cay range<br />

from a woodland interior lot <strong>of</strong> five acres <strong>of</strong>fered at<br />

$395,000 to <strong>the</strong> ultimate 14 acre beachfront estate<br />

with small cottage and space for a new modern home<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered at $8.2 million. Vacant land, older cottages,<br />

and renovated homes are all available at a wide range<br />

<strong>of</strong> prices. Joining <strong>the</strong> membership community is a process<br />

quite different to a normal real estate purchase,<br />

yet it reflects <strong>the</strong> unique “lifestyle” on <strong>of</strong>fer. Meeting<br />

many members and visiting <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong>ten ensures<br />

mutual compatibility and keeps Pine Cay in <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> a like-minded group <strong>of</strong> families with agreed goals. It<br />

is a long term decision for your family through generations, and a remarkable chance to preserve this unique<br />

island paradise. a<br />

Sara Kaufman moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in 1994 after fifteen years in Europe as a top management<br />

consultant. She lives in Middle Caicos and was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original developers<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Blue Horizon Resort. Sara writes frequent articles and e-newsletters<br />

featuring real estate information about Turks & Caicos published internationally.<br />

As manager <strong>of</strong> Forbes, Forbes & Forbes Ltd., a company created to sell<br />

real estate “Go Beyond Provo,” Sara began a dedicated property sales program<br />

for Pine Cay in 2005 and has sold most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> properties on island<br />

since that time. The company <strong>of</strong>fers full real estate services both for members<br />

selling <strong>the</strong>ir properties on island and as buyers-representative for persons<br />

wishing to investigate property and membership opportunities on Pine Cay.<br />

Visit www.pinecayrealty.com for island information and current property<br />

listings available through Forbes, Forbes & Forbes Ltd. Contact Sara at<br />

info@pinecayrealty.com or call (649) 231-4884.<br />

64 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />

tel 649 946 2<strong>16</strong>0 • fax 649 946 2<strong>16</strong>0 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />

A marine archaeologist examines <strong>the</strong> exposed hull remains <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wreck thought to be <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />

“unfinished stories.”<br />

Fill in <strong>the</strong> Blanks<br />

By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />

This issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe contains two good examples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “two-way street” type <strong>of</strong> articles we like to publish. On<br />

one hand <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer entertaining and instructive stories stemming from research conducted by historians, archaeologists,<br />

archival researchers, and o<strong>the</strong>r authorities. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand <strong>the</strong>y acknowledge that <strong>the</strong> stories are <strong>of</strong>ten not<br />

complete, that pieces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> puzzle are still missing, and encourage readers to get involved and help fill in <strong>the</strong> blanks.<br />

The story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore is one that should by now be familiar to our readers. The Museum has<br />

been piecing it toge<strong>the</strong>r for <strong>the</strong> last 22 years and we’re still at it. In <strong>the</strong> “Unfinished Story” interview on <strong>the</strong> next<br />

page, filmmakers Richard Coberly and Veronica Veerkamp talk about what you can do to help us finish “The Search<br />

for Trouvadore” documentary, and why <strong>the</strong> film is a critical part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> research.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r example <strong>of</strong> a two-way street approach is Peter Marshall’s article. I recently discovered that Peter, a<br />

colleague for at least 35 years, has a unique and extensive collection <strong>of</strong> stamps, postcards, envelopes, and even<br />

“Ham” radio QSL cards from <strong>the</strong> TCI. When he learned <strong>of</strong> our common interest in <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>, he was kind enough<br />

to share images <strong>of</strong> items in his collection as well as his perceptions about <strong>the</strong>ir significance. His study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> postal<br />

history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI has raised questions that he hopes local knowledge can answer.<br />

Sherlin Williams’ article about Neal Coverley, Grand Turk’s turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> century “postcard man,” is a nice complement<br />

to Peter’s, revealing ano<strong>the</strong>r aspect <strong>of</strong> postal history from <strong>the</strong> perspective <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> postcard producer!<br />

With hurricane season safely behind us and <strong>the</strong> “High Season” fast approaching, <strong>the</strong> Museum is gearing up<br />

with new exhibits, new merchandise in <strong>the</strong> shop, and new educational programs for students on Grand Turk and<br />

Providenciales. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 65


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Videographer Fujio Watanabe shoots surface operations <strong>of</strong>f East Caicos.<br />

An Unfinished Story<br />

Trouvadore documentary is over 13 years in <strong>the</strong> making.<br />

By Dr. Donald H. Keith ~ Photos By Windward Media<br />

Prologue: In 1993 Museum Founder Gre<strong>the</strong> Seim and Dr. Donald Keith discovered a document in <strong>the</strong><br />

Smithsonian Institution that set <strong>of</strong>f a large-scale, long-term research project: <strong>the</strong> amazing but true story<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore. The Astrolabe has carried articles and updates following this project for<br />

more than a decade, and it continues to this day. In all probability it will continue for decades.<br />

Now what <strong>the</strong> project needs most is exposure. Not only exposure to <strong>the</strong> public, but also to o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

researchers in o<strong>the</strong>r lands with access to o<strong>the</strong>r records and resources that could help us find <strong>the</strong> missing<br />

pieces.<br />

66 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Story. The best way to accomplish that is with a documentary<br />

video. In <strong>the</strong> 21st century <strong>the</strong> video medium is<br />

what we turn to first for entertainment, to find <strong>the</strong> answer<br />

to a question, or get a message out.<br />

Recent publicity about discoveries <strong>of</strong> possible slave<br />

shipwrecks in South Africa, <strong>the</strong> Florida Keys, and <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas have generated more public awareness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

part slave ships played in <strong>the</strong> African Diaspora. Richard<br />

Coberly (RC) and Veronica Veerkamp (VV) are documentary<br />

producers with Windward Media in Houston, Texas,<br />

who have been researching and filming <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />

Search for Trouvadore Project from <strong>the</strong> beginning.<br />

In a recent interview with Museum Director Pat<br />

Saxton, <strong>the</strong>y explained how <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore documentary<br />

film project came about and what it’s going to take to<br />

make it a reality.<br />

Q: When did you first get <strong>the</strong> idea to make a documentary<br />

about <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore story?<br />

A: VV: I think it started in <strong>the</strong> late 1990s when we went to<br />

interview Dr. Toni Carrell at Ships <strong>of</strong> Discovery in Corpus<br />

Christi. We were doing a documentary film on <strong>the</strong> discovery<br />

and excavation <strong>of</strong> La Belle, a ship French explorer La<br />

Salle lost <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Texas in <strong>16</strong>86. Dr. Carrell was<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> archaeologists working on <strong>the</strong> project at <strong>the</strong><br />

time. She mentioned her colleagues had recently discovered<br />

<strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> a long-forgotten slave ship in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

that might be even more enthralling, and that <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

planning to look for it.<br />

Q: And that was <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore?<br />

A: VV: Yes, although that’s just one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ways it’s<br />

spelled in in <strong>the</strong> dispatches between Grand Turk and<br />

Nassau, “Trovadore,” “Traubadore,” “Travadore,”<br />

“Troubadour,” etc. Its identity and basic information were<br />

murky because <strong>the</strong> trans-Atlantic slave trade had been<br />

banned by that time. Secrecy was paramount, so ships<br />

involved in <strong>the</strong> trade worked hard to hide or disguise<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir origins, ownership, and identities. They changed<br />

names frequently and <strong>of</strong>ten carried multiple captains,<br />

logs, and sets <strong>of</strong> papers to support different registrations<br />

and nationalities.<br />

Q: When did you actually start shooting for <strong>the</strong> film?<br />

A: RC: We started shooting in TCI in 2002, but <strong>the</strong> first<br />

expedition footage was shot in 2004, so we’ve been at it<br />

for about 13 years, on and <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

From top: Interviewees Veronica Veerkamp and Richard Coberly <strong>of</strong><br />

Windward Media share <strong>the</strong>ir thoughts on making a documentary<br />

about <strong>the</strong> slave ship Trouvadore.<br />

Shooting a documentary isn’t cheap, particularly when it involves<br />

filming not only on and under <strong>the</strong> water, but above it as well!<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 67


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Q: Did you ever have any tense moments<br />

shooting out in <strong>the</strong> field?<br />

A: VV: No, not really what you could call tense.<br />

Anxious perhaps.<br />

RC: Well, <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>the</strong> time when we had<br />

to make a night crossing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks Island<br />

Passage with three 15-foot skiffs and Hurricane<br />

Francis coming in. Then <strong>the</strong> government sent<br />

all non-residents out until <strong>the</strong> storm passed.<br />

Of course we had to pack all our camera gear<br />

and fly home, <strong>the</strong>n return after three days to<br />

resume shooting. Given all <strong>the</strong> gear we require,<br />

that was quite a chore, but certainly better than<br />

<strong>the</strong> alternative.<br />

VV: Oh yeah, and <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>the</strong> time that<br />

we were looking for a safe overnight anchorage<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Caicos Explorer got “embayed” in<br />

Jacksonville Cut in a minefield <strong>of</strong> coral heads<br />

just under <strong>the</strong> surface. The whole expedition<br />

could have ended right <strong>the</strong>n and <strong>the</strong>re if <strong>the</strong><br />

Captain had made a single false move.<br />

RC: Then <strong>the</strong> time two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> team members<br />

flipped <strong>the</strong> ship’s dingy while attempting to<br />

establish a safe passage over <strong>the</strong> reef. That one<br />

really had <strong>the</strong> potential for disaster. We lost<br />

some equipment, but amazingly no one was<br />

injured!<br />

VV: Don’t forget <strong>the</strong> “Mag Boys” from Sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

Archaeological Research. Not only did <strong>the</strong>ir magnetometer<br />

get attacked by a barracuda, but <strong>the</strong> first day out on<br />

<strong>the</strong> survey, <strong>the</strong>y drowned <strong>the</strong>ir computer. Fortunately one<br />

<strong>of</strong> our camera operators had a laptop to loan <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong><br />

duration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> survey.<br />

Q: How long did <strong>the</strong> field work take?<br />

A: VV: It took years! After a couple <strong>of</strong> reconnaissance<br />

trips to East Caicos, which is uninhabited, it was clear<br />

that we would all have to work <strong>of</strong>f a ship. So in 2004,<br />

2006, and 2008, we chartered <strong>the</strong> live-aboard dive boat<br />

Turks & Caicos Explorer to serve as our “mo<strong>the</strong>r ship”.<br />

Anchored outside <strong>the</strong> reef <strong>of</strong>f Breezy Point, we filmed as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y searched <strong>the</strong> whole north coast <strong>of</strong> East Caicos, which<br />

was known to be littered with shipwreck material.<br />

Q: So, when did <strong>the</strong>y actually discover <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore?<br />

A: RC: Well, that’s kind <strong>of</strong> a funny story. When we<br />

From top: The reef that guards <strong>the</strong> site had to be crossed twice each day—not<br />

always with success!<br />

All elements <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> project were filmed, including this attempt to repair a<br />

drowned laptop computer.<br />

returned to East Caicos after Hurricane Francis in 2004,<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> team members who was dodging coral heads<br />

while being towed behind a small boat spotted “something<br />

that didn’t look right.” Divers were dispatched<br />

immediately to check it out, and after a cursory examination<br />

<strong>the</strong>y realized it was <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> an old wooden<br />

ship. At <strong>the</strong> time, we thought it was an excellent candidate<br />

for being <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> Trouvadore, but we called it<br />

<strong>the</strong> “Black Rock Wreck” because <strong>of</strong> its location. It took two<br />

more expeditions to fully examine <strong>the</strong> site, and eliminate<br />

all <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r possibilities.<br />

Q: What did you think <strong>the</strong> first time you saw <strong>the</strong> Black<br />

Rock Wreck underwater?<br />

A: RC: There wasn’t much to see at first, just a pile <strong>of</strong><br />

seaweed-encrusted rocks—<strong>the</strong> ballast stones that every<br />

wooden sailing ship carried in its belly. It took weeks <strong>of</strong><br />

excavation before you could clearly see <strong>the</strong> hull structure<br />

which had been buried in <strong>the</strong> sand.<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Q: Just to play <strong>the</strong> Devil’s Advocate, how do you know<br />

it was <strong>the</strong> right ship?<br />

A: VV: Well, <strong>the</strong>re was no “smoking gun” like a big brass<br />

ship’s bell with “Slave Ship Trouvadore” written on it—<br />

that only happens in <strong>the</strong> movies! This was more <strong>of</strong> a<br />

Sherlock Holmes type <strong>of</strong> investigation. According to <strong>the</strong><br />

archeologists, this was <strong>the</strong> only wreck on <strong>the</strong> North coast<br />

<strong>of</strong> East Caicos that had <strong>the</strong> right location, artifacts, and<br />

construction characteristics.<br />

Q. What’s <strong>the</strong> suspected connection between <strong>the</strong><br />

Trouvadore and modern-day Turks & Caicos Islanders?<br />

A: RC: We know from <strong>the</strong> records that 196 Africans<br />

onboard Trouvadore survived <strong>the</strong> wrecking at Breezy<br />

Point. They were rescued and freed by British authorities,<br />

and after a short “apprenticeship” in local trades, were<br />

given small plots <strong>of</strong> Crown land in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to<br />

live on and farm. We believe <strong>the</strong> area <strong>the</strong>y settled is now<br />

known as Bambarra on Middle Caicos, and <strong>the</strong>ir descendants<br />

live <strong>the</strong>re to this day.<br />

be compared with <strong>the</strong>se African databases to find out<br />

exactly where <strong>the</strong>ir ancestors came from.<br />

Q: Let’s talk about <strong>the</strong> film. What happened when <strong>the</strong><br />

announcement was made about <strong>the</strong> discovery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Trouvadore in 2008?<br />

A: RC: It went all over <strong>the</strong> world. Someone called excitedly<br />

one morning to ask if I had seen <strong>the</strong> news articles<br />

about it on <strong>the</strong> Internet. I was amazed at <strong>the</strong> international<br />

interest, even in China. There were nearly 100 articles in<br />

multiple languages, with tens <strong>of</strong> millions <strong>of</strong> hits!<br />

VV: Of course, we thought with all that interest it should<br />

be a shoo-in to get funding for <strong>the</strong> documentary, but<br />

interest does not always translate into underwriting.<br />

Q: How sure can you be sure that <strong>the</strong>re is a connection<br />

between Trouvadore, Bambara in Africa, and<br />

Bambarra on Middle Caicos?<br />

A: VV: Well, what constitutes pro<strong>of</strong>? There’s <strong>the</strong> similar<br />

place names, to start with. The first Africans in <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> came down from Georgia and Florida after <strong>the</strong> US<br />

War <strong>of</strong> Independence in <strong>the</strong> 1790s. It’s unlikely that <strong>the</strong>y<br />

would have retained <strong>the</strong> memory <strong>of</strong> place names or language<br />

families in Africa—but <strong>the</strong> people on Trouvadore<br />

could have.<br />

We also have local oral tradition. For example, former<br />

TCI Director <strong>of</strong> Culture David Bowen spent time as a boy<br />

with his great-grandmo<strong>the</strong>r in Bambarra, and he recalls<br />

her talking about her grandmo<strong>the</strong>r coming from a slave<br />

ship wreck.<br />

Q: What about DNA studies? Couldn’t <strong>the</strong>y help<br />

resolve <strong>the</strong> origin <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> Bambarra?<br />

A: VV: Absolutely! Modern medical science has provided<br />

all <strong>of</strong> us with a way—which until now was impossible—to<br />

establish incontrovertible connections with our origins<br />

and distant relatives. Because humanity originated in<br />

Africa, a tremendous amount <strong>of</strong> DNA research has been<br />

done <strong>the</strong>re and now huge databases exist. DNA samples<br />

from Africans living on this side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Atlantic can<br />

Capt. Jean-Francois Chabot shoots <strong>the</strong> wreck site underwater.<br />

Q: What does a documentary like this cost to produce<br />

and how long does it take?<br />

A: RC: Documentary production isn’t a one-step process.<br />

Every element requires funding <strong>of</strong> different amounts and<br />

at different times, especially when you have to follow <strong>the</strong><br />

process <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> archaeology and research. After <strong>the</strong> actual<br />

expedition shooting is done, <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> story must<br />

be written and filmed, edited, and distributed. These are<br />

<strong>the</strong> things that truly cost <strong>the</strong> most, and can range from<br />

$200,000 to more than $1,000,000, depending on how<br />

<strong>the</strong> film is structured. In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore project,<br />

all <strong>the</strong> elements after <strong>the</strong> expeditions have yet to be<br />

funded and filmed.<br />

Q: Why is it so important to make a documentary film<br />

about <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore story? Hasn’t it already been<br />

told?<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 69


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Search for Trouvadore Project<br />

To view videos about <strong>the</strong> Search for Trouvadore<br />

Project, go to:<br />

http://ocean.si.edu/ocean-videos/trouvadore-story-deliverance<br />

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDIM37Xf3dE<br />

For more information or to contribute to <strong>the</strong> production<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore documentary contact:<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos:<br />

Patricia P. Saxton, Director<br />

Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />

pat.saxton@tcmuseum.org<br />

649-946-2<strong>16</strong>0<br />

VOI: 505-2<strong>16</strong>-1795 •Cell: 649-231-1891<br />

For US taxpayers, your support is tax deductible<br />

when made through <strong>the</strong> Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos National Museum Foundation:<br />

Dr. Donald H. Keith, President<br />

Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Foundation<br />

39 Condesa Road<br />

Santa Fe, NM, 87508<br />

dhkeith@ships<strong>of</strong>discovery.org<br />

Cell: 361-779-3861 • Office: 505-466-2240<br />

Among <strong>the</strong> scores <strong>of</strong> people involved in <strong>the</strong> research, excavation, and<br />

filming <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Search for Trouvadore” is this team <strong>of</strong> archaeologists,<br />

videographers, and crew members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Explorer<br />

during <strong>the</strong> 2008 season.<br />

A: RC: Documentary films typically reach <strong>the</strong> largest possible<br />

audience, more than any o<strong>the</strong>r medium, including<br />

magazines, books, or any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r “traditional” ways<br />

<strong>of</strong> getting <strong>the</strong> word out. And it isn’t just getting <strong>the</strong> word<br />

out, it’s what <strong>the</strong> word is. It isn’t just one story . . . it’s<br />

many stories.<br />

Q: And how do you intend to tell <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore<br />

story?<br />

A: RC: Recently <strong>the</strong>re has been increasing interest in<br />

“slave ship archeology” but very few documentaries have<br />

been made on <strong>the</strong> subject. People are surprised to learn<br />

that only a handful have ever been found and studied,<br />

and Trouvadore is <strong>the</strong> first to actually be carrying slaves<br />

at <strong>the</strong> time it wrecked. Given <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> African<br />

slave trade, being able to trace anyone’s lineage directly<br />

back to <strong>the</strong>ir ancestral homelands is almost unheard <strong>of</strong>.<br />

VV: Of course, many films have been made about <strong>the</strong><br />

infamous “Middle Passage,” and how wrong <strong>the</strong> institution<br />

<strong>of</strong> slavery was in <strong>the</strong> first place, but <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore<br />

story is different.<br />

70 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Q: Different? How do you mean?<br />

A: VV: It’s <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> a voyage that ended in shipwreck,<br />

but for <strong>the</strong> Africans on board it wasn’t a tragedy, it was<br />

deliverance! British subjects in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> resisted<br />

<strong>the</strong> handsome bribes <strong>of</strong>fered by <strong>the</strong> Spanish captain, and<br />

reported <strong>the</strong> wreck to <strong>the</strong> proper authorities who arrested<br />

<strong>the</strong> captain and crew and freed <strong>the</strong> Africans.<br />

It’s <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> how an accidental discovery <strong>of</strong> an<br />

old letter in <strong>the</strong> Smithsonian led to a shipwreck with a<br />

direct connection to <strong>the</strong> modern-day inhabitants <strong>of</strong> a tiny<br />

settlement on Middle Caicos. It tells why museums and<br />

<strong>the</strong> artifacts and records <strong>the</strong>y preserve in perpetuity are<br />

so important: human memory is short and inaccurate.<br />

Q: So you’ve been working on this for 13 years?!<br />

Where did <strong>the</strong> funding come from all that time?<br />

A: VV: Working closely with <strong>the</strong> TC National Museum<br />

and Ships <strong>of</strong> Discovery, we’ve had a variety <strong>of</strong> supporters<br />

over <strong>the</strong> years. In fact, <strong>the</strong>re’s been a lot <strong>of</strong> interest and<br />

support from outside <strong>the</strong> TCI. We received grants from<br />

<strong>the</strong> US National Science Foundation and NOAA, and <strong>the</strong><br />

Dayton, Teddy, and San Francisco Foundations, among<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs. In <strong>the</strong> TCI we got support from <strong>the</strong> Hotel & Tourist<br />

Association, <strong>the</strong> Tourist Board, <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group, <strong>the</strong><br />

Krieble Foundation, <strong>the</strong> TCI Conservation Fund, Mr. John<br />

M. Frey, and o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

Q: So what’s next?<br />

A: RC: Right now we’re working with distributors from<br />

Australia and Canada to partner with international production<br />

companies who would participate in funding and<br />

broadcasting <strong>the</strong> first class documentary that <strong>the</strong> “Search<br />

for Trouvadore” deserves.<br />

VV: Even before any major funding can come from international<br />

broadcast partners, <strong>the</strong> documentary still must<br />

raise funds to produce both <strong>the</strong> material for promoting<br />

<strong>the</strong> project, and to make sure <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> production<br />

is as high as possible. Even though <strong>the</strong> Trouvadore<br />

story is an international one, at its core, it really is about<br />

<strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI who we hope will continue to support<br />

<strong>the</strong> project, and help us finish <strong>the</strong>ir story. a<br />

Museum matters<br />

Anniversary celebration<br />

In November <strong>2015</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum will celebrate <strong>the</strong> 24th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

day we first opened our doors. We like to think that<br />

<strong>the</strong> Museum’s Founder, Mrs. Gre<strong>the</strong> Seim would<br />

be proud <strong>of</strong> what we have accomplished. A glance<br />

backward over <strong>the</strong> last five years shows that we have<br />

come a long way.<br />

In <strong>2015</strong> we<br />

received a donation<br />

from HE Governor<br />

Beckingham’s<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice for a new<br />

exhibit showcasing<br />

a 19th century<br />

colonial <strong>of</strong>fice (at<br />

left). The Museum closed from September 1–15 so<br />

we could install that exhibit and upgrade o<strong>the</strong>rs. The<br />

John Glenn exhibit now is in a brighter room, with<br />

new information about <strong>the</strong> US bases and <strong>the</strong> men<br />

who served in TCI. We thank all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ex-servicemen<br />

who donated <strong>the</strong>ir photos, memorabilia and stories.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r new additions are <strong>the</strong> information boards and<br />

“windows” into <strong>the</strong> Salt Industry, featuring a large<br />

scale model <strong>of</strong> a salina windmill, photos, and artefacts.<br />

Neil Saxton and Charles Kesnel worked diligently<br />

to make sure we opened on September <strong>16</strong>. Along <strong>the</strong><br />

way <strong>the</strong>y had <strong>the</strong> usual surprises: rotten wood, termites<br />

and crazy electrical wiring. Remodeling a house<br />

which is itself an almost 200 year old artifact isn’t<br />

easy. But our small, mighty team <strong>of</strong> workers overcame<br />

<strong>the</strong> obstacles and our new exhibits are wonderful. We<br />

will be adding plaques naming <strong>the</strong> past governors<br />

and premiers along with more photography <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Queen’s visits. Also new is that all visitors will now<br />

receive a guide to <strong>the</strong> upstairs, explaining <strong>the</strong> exhibits<br />

along with a bit <strong>of</strong> history about Guinep House.<br />

Everything will be in place for <strong>the</strong> grand opening<br />

in mid-November <strong>2015</strong> to kick <strong>of</strong>f our anniversary!<br />

HE Governor Beckingham will do <strong>the</strong> honors, and it<br />

will be an event for members and supporters. a<br />

Story & Photos By Museum Director Pat Saxton<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 71


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

A range <strong>of</strong> early stamps is shown all used toge<strong>the</strong>r on one postcard in 1927.<br />

The Original “Snail Mail”<br />

A glimpse at <strong>the</strong> postal history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Story & Photos By Peter Marshall<br />

Many people <strong>the</strong> world over have never heard <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. But among philatelists (a<br />

posh word for stamp collectors, myself included), <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> are famous for <strong>the</strong> colourful, diverse postage<br />

stamps <strong>the</strong>y issue.<br />

Until <strong>the</strong> salt-raking stamps were introduced it was only <strong>the</strong> postcards that told anything about what<br />

could be found in <strong>the</strong>se islands. My own interest gradually became more focused on <strong>the</strong> postcards and<br />

envelopes <strong>the</strong>mselves, adding to <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. I have not found any picture postcard before<br />

1900. Many, if not most, were sent by visitors, and are more likely to be found abroad, as indeed are<br />

most stamps and envelopes.<br />

72 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

I imagine that few readers <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Astrolabe can remember stamps<br />

much fur<strong>the</strong>r back than 1967 when<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> celebrated <strong>the</strong><br />

100th Anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir “separation”<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. Interestingly,<br />

up to 1900, TCI stamps carried <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks <strong>Islands</strong> name only and <strong>the</strong>reafter,<br />

Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Before<br />

1867 <strong>the</strong>re were no stamps but just a<br />

simple postmark to show that postage<br />

had been paid. Given <strong>the</strong> relatively<br />

small population <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, it<br />

was almost inevitable that properly<br />

used stamps would be scarcer than<br />

those unfranked. As years advanced,<br />

stamps became more and more<br />

important as revenue generators for<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> through stamp collectors<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r than just postal use.<br />

There were half a dozen o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

issues up until <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> present<br />

monarch but less than 15 in total<br />

in nearly 90 years before <strong>the</strong>n, and<br />

some <strong>of</strong> those included stamps for<br />

events such as coronations, victory,<br />

etc.<br />

When did <strong>the</strong>y think <strong>of</strong> introducing<br />

<strong>the</strong> local postage rate <strong>of</strong> ¼d?<br />

Perhaps during 1909 when <strong>the</strong> next<br />

design, showing a portrait <strong>of</strong> King<br />

Edward VII, was issued but without<br />

that value. The ¼d “cactus” design<br />

came out <strong>the</strong> following year. Was it a<br />

trial overprint or just a bogus stamp?<br />

Does any reader have an old family<br />

album with perhaps a letter or card<br />

tucked away, which was delivered<br />

with that stamp applied? This is an<br />

example <strong>of</strong> where <strong>the</strong> philatelist<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten has to rely on local knowledge,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> longer one does not ask <strong>the</strong><br />

question, <strong>the</strong> less likely that we will<br />

know. Can YOU help?<br />

The customs house produces<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r query for YOU! OHMS cor-<br />

Some later issues are shown here, including <strong>the</strong> George V Jubilee, value across which has<br />

been perforated “SPECIMEN”.<br />

There is no lack <strong>of</strong> material to interest <strong>the</strong> serious philatelist. These early “Provisional” overprint<br />

issues <strong>of</strong> 1881 were introduced as a stop-gap to suit <strong>the</strong> postal rates <strong>of</strong> 1881 before <strong>the</strong><br />

new stamps were issued in 1882.<br />

Even from early days, most stamps, pre-paid postcards, and pre-paid envelopes were issued to<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r nations as “samples” with <strong>the</strong> word “specimen” added, and one or two applied <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

additional marks (as Portugal applied “Ultramar” to <strong>the</strong> far right stamp). The lovely “badge <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> colony” stamps, issued at <strong>the</strong> turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19th century, also had a provisional overprint<br />

<strong>of</strong> ¼d on its ½d value. These have been assumed not to be genuine postal stamps, but I have<br />

a letter from <strong>the</strong> late John Challis, a specialist in <strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI, that <strong>the</strong>y were “genuine”<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r than a philatelic issue. The sending <strong>of</strong> mail by a particular passing ship is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

written or stamped on <strong>the</strong> card or envelope, but <strong>the</strong> stamp shown on <strong>the</strong> far left has <strong>the</strong> “SS<br />

SEMINOLE” cancelled across <strong>the</strong> stamp itself.<br />

This plain pre-stamped card was sent “folded” with a reply card attached, already prepaid,<br />

which was valid in any country. This, toge<strong>the</strong>r with that postcard, begins to show <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

much more to postal history than <strong>the</strong> individual stamps. Stamps with <strong>the</strong> badge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> colony<br />

were significant since <strong>the</strong>se were <strong>the</strong> first stamps that acknowledge that people inhabit <strong>the</strong><br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> as well as <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 73


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Left: Shown here is <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> an envelope sent to Mr. I. Levina in 1939 which had been opened by <strong>the</strong> wartime censor en route to Montreal.<br />

Apart from bearing one <strong>of</strong> two types <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “Cable & Wireless” markings (indifferently applied inverted), it has something like <strong>the</strong> badge <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> colony pre-printed on <strong>the</strong> envelope’s back flap. Or is it a family crest? If so, are any members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family reading this?<br />

Right: This OHMS envelope has “Customs House Turks <strong>Islands</strong>” stamped on it. When was that in use? Does <strong>the</strong> rubber stamp still exist?<br />

Above: VP5BF is <strong>the</strong> call sign that belonged to Ken Penchoen, South Caicos, and was sent to<br />

<strong>the</strong> man with whom he had made radio contact. VP5AA was Hamilton Robinson, VP5DC Bud<br />

(Lorne) Creech, and VP5PH Seth Hodson.<br />

Left: This is <strong>the</strong> very characterful card VP 5BB. I wonder whe<strong>the</strong>r any <strong>of</strong> Bert Be<strong>the</strong>lsen’s relations,<br />

or those <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs, are still present in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>?<br />

respondence was <strong>of</strong>ten stamped with an oval marked<br />

“Postmaster Turks <strong>Islands</strong>,” usually dated in <strong>the</strong> centre,<br />

but <strong>the</strong> one above has “Customs House Turks <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />

When was that in use (o<strong>the</strong>r than <strong>the</strong> date shown)? Does<br />

<strong>the</strong> rubber stamp still exist, perhaps with <strong>the</strong> postmaster?<br />

Much more recently (only 50 or so years ago!),<br />

<strong>the</strong>re was ano<strong>the</strong>r counterpart to <strong>the</strong> postcard—ham<br />

radio cards identifying individually owned, non-commercial<br />

radio transmitters, by which communication was<br />

instantaneous, long before <strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Internet. The<br />

interest I have in <strong>the</strong>se is that <strong>the</strong>y are from residents<br />

and thus include people’s names. All ham radios in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI had call signs beginning with VP5.<br />

Envelopes to or from <strong>the</strong> following salt merchants<br />

are also in my album: Harriott Salt, George Frith, Alfred<br />

Stubbs, and Neale Coverley. I wonder if relations <strong>of</strong> those<br />

who worked <strong>the</strong>re are still resident. And what about Oscar<br />

Greg, Edward Cameron (Comissioner at Government<br />

House) or Postmaster T. Lindsay Smith, in <strong>the</strong> 1920s?<br />

If YOU should find something similar to any <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> items mentioned in <strong>the</strong> article, perhaps lurking at<br />

<strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> an old drawer, I would be delighted to<br />

hear from you. I can ei<strong>the</strong>r be contacted at my e-mail<br />

(ar.01177@yahoo.co.uk) or through <strong>the</strong> Museum (info@<br />

tcmuseum.org). Help us reconstruct <strong>the</strong> postal history <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI! a<br />

74 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

In this popular Edmond Neale Coverley postcard, “Cocoanuts and Guinea Corn,” <strong>the</strong> child in <strong>the</strong> foreground is Neal’s oldest son, Litton Flavious<br />

Boller Coverley.<br />

Grand Turk’s Postcard Man<br />

Meet Edmond Neale Coverley.<br />

By Sherlin Willams ~ Illustrations Turks & Caicos National Museum Collection<br />

Edmond Neale Coverley was born on Grand Turk to Flavious Coverley, an Englishman, and Olivia Firth,<br />

a young lady <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wealthy Frith salt merchant clan. Neal, as he was affectionately called, and his wife<br />

Minimia Elodie Astwood, lived with <strong>the</strong>ir children in <strong>the</strong>ir two story home on Middle Street, directly behind<br />

present-day Dots Enterprise.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 75


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Neale became a successful entrepreneur and businessman<br />

on Grand Turk, participating in a wide range <strong>of</strong><br />

enterprises and acquiring a broad spectrum <strong>of</strong> skills. He<br />

owned and operated a store on Front Street, located in<br />

<strong>the</strong> building now occupied by <strong>the</strong> Seventh Day Adventist<br />

Church, selling a large variety <strong>of</strong> items ranging from groceries<br />

to boat anchors! He also did very well buying and<br />

scrapping wrecked ships.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> store Neale had a workshop where<br />

he made shell products for export, repaired watches, and<br />

pulled teeth (ouch!). A good example <strong>of</strong> his ingenuity was<br />

<strong>the</strong> windmill he built to power some <strong>of</strong> his tools. The<br />

store also contained his photography studio and darkroom—elements<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ession that made him famous.<br />

The fact that Neale was so good and successful at so<br />

many things shows that he was extraordinarily talented.<br />

And whilst it’s likely that he was not trained at a photography<br />

institute as I was, his photography is in every<br />

respect that <strong>of</strong> a trained pr<strong>of</strong>essional photographer.<br />

Likewise, Neale captured <strong>the</strong> essence <strong>of</strong> our salt industry<br />

era where none o<strong>the</strong>r came close.<br />

Neale was also a bullish entrepreneur. When <strong>the</strong> government<br />

was looking for persons interested in a scheme<br />

to diversity <strong>the</strong> island’s economy producing cooking oil<br />

from coconuts, Neale stepped up to <strong>the</strong> plate and began<br />

operating a coconut plantation at Little Bluff. The venture<br />

flourished for a while until it fell prey to a plant disease<br />

that wiped <strong>the</strong> trees out.<br />

Neale was <strong>the</strong> island’s number one cricket fan. His<br />

passion for <strong>the</strong> sport led him to sponsor a cricket team<br />

that competed with <strong>the</strong> Police and Cable & Wireless teams.<br />

His business success and o<strong>the</strong>r ventures seemed to enrich<br />

him spiritually; he was a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Anglican Church,<br />

but regularly visited <strong>the</strong> Baptist and Methodist churches.<br />

This was at a time when those denominations were not<br />

popular amongst Salt Island elites.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> wake <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> devastating July 1926 hurricanes,<br />

Neale gave financial assistance to many whose homes<br />

were damaged or lost <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s. He passed away <strong>the</strong><br />

next year at age fifty. His tomb is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first visitors<br />

to St. Thomas’s Church will see after entering <strong>the</strong> main<br />

gate.<br />

The Postcard Man<br />

Neale’s turn <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> twentieth century postcards covering a<br />

This is a photo <strong>of</strong> Neale “The Postcard Man” and Minimia Coverley.<br />

Middle: In “Holiday – Grand Turk,” note <strong>the</strong> photographers in <strong>the</strong> lower<br />

left corner, <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library on <strong>the</strong> right, and <strong>the</strong> large mounds <strong>of</strong><br />

salt in <strong>the</strong> background.<br />

Bottom: In “Barreling Salt for Export,” note <strong>the</strong> perfect composition:<br />

salt, barrels, donkey cart, and ships in background.<br />

76 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

In “Lighthouse Grand Turk,” note <strong>the</strong> man on <strong>the</strong> walkway at <strong>the</strong> top<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tower with a telescope!<br />

cross-section <strong>of</strong> life on Grand Turk have given us some <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> best memories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>Islands</strong> during <strong>the</strong>ir heyday.<br />

Apparently he began making black-and-white and sepia<br />

tone postcards in <strong>the</strong> 1890s. His famous “Holiday Grand<br />

Turk,” “Lighthouse Grand Turk,” “Barrelling Salt,” and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r postcards indicate that he took his photography to<br />

a higher level by moving away from sepia tones and into<br />

<strong>the</strong> new colour tones.<br />

Some authors have stated that Neale was <strong>the</strong> photographer<br />

for <strong>the</strong> “Holiday Grand Turk” postcard taken<br />

on Queen Victoria’s fiftieth birthday or during her Silver<br />

Jubilee celebration, because <strong>the</strong> crowd seems to be<br />

ga<strong>the</strong>ring at <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library on <strong>the</strong> right side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

photograph. My research revealed that Neale was born<br />

in 1877. Queen Victoria was born in 1819 and ascended<br />

to <strong>the</strong> throne in 1837. Her fiftieth birthday celebration<br />

would have been held in 1869, before Neale was born,<br />

and her Silver Jubilee would have been in 1887, when<br />

Neale was age ten. Although it is possible that a tenyear-old<br />

boy could have accomplished this, I think it was<br />

highly unlikely. Photographic equipment in those days<br />

was very expensive and probably beyond <strong>the</strong> reach <strong>of</strong><br />

such a young man.<br />

We know <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library on Grand Turk was built<br />

over a period <strong>of</strong> two years and dedicated in her honor in<br />

1889, when Neale was age twenty-one. The Queen died<br />

in 1901, when Neale was age twenty-four. Therefore, it<br />

is only reasonable to conclude that that this great photo<br />

was taken ei<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> Library’s <strong>of</strong>ficial opening or upon<br />

her death, by which time he would have acquired <strong>the</strong><br />

expertise, experience and equipment. But I’m inclined to<br />

believe that it was taken in 1901, when <strong>the</strong> great Queen<br />

passed away.<br />

Notice that <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r photographers in <strong>the</strong><br />

photo. These are amateurs. When taking in a large scene<br />

a pr<strong>of</strong>essional would always get an elevated perspective,<br />

as Neale has done here. His postcard titled “Barreling Salt<br />

for Export” tells me that although he was almost certainly<br />

self-taught, his work was <strong>of</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional quality. Looking<br />

at this picture, it is easy to tell that <strong>the</strong> mule-cart and<br />

driver are posed. The ship is in <strong>the</strong> perfect position. The<br />

subject, salt, is in <strong>the</strong> foreground along with salt workers:<br />

perfect! The only improvement a photographer <strong>of</strong> today<br />

might make would be to include a little action. We can do<br />

so nowadays because we have cameras with high shutter<br />

speeds capable <strong>of</strong> freezing action—something not<br />

available to Neale. That is why this picture appears to be<br />

unanimated. But its overall qualities are so strong most<br />

viewers would hardly notice. a<br />

The author would like to thank <strong>the</strong> Coverley family and<br />

friends for <strong>the</strong>ir valuable assistance in providing information<br />

on Mr. Edmond Neale Coverley, especially Mr.<br />

Carl Coverley, Neale’s grandson, and <strong>the</strong> late Mr. Oswald<br />

“King Oz” Francis, friend <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family.<br />

Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription<br />

to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (which includes Astrolabe),<br />

free admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum, and a Members’<br />

Discount in <strong>the</strong> Museum Shop.<br />

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To join*, send name, address, email, and type <strong>of</strong><br />

membership, along with cheque or money order<br />

payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:<br />

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39 Condesa Road<br />

Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA<br />

Or, visit:<br />

www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/<br />

*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum is tax-deductible via<br />

Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn: Donald H.<br />

Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our affiliated institution<br />

and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 77


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

Gift shop prepares for <strong>the</strong> season<br />

The TCNM team is gearing up for <strong>the</strong> busy season with<br />

lots <strong>of</strong> new gift shop items. Look for our new collection<br />

<strong>of</strong> Dune Jewelry, made exclusively for <strong>the</strong> Museum.<br />

Sterling silver necklaces, rings, bangles and earrings,<br />

all with a touch <strong>of</strong> sand from Governor’s Beach, make<br />

lovely gifts for someone special.<br />

Our motto, “Take some history home with you,”<br />

doesn’t stop <strong>the</strong>re. We have replicas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt windmill,<br />

brass navigational ornaments and handmade<br />

ornaments filled with sea glass, along with flags and<br />

handmade magnets. And <strong>of</strong> course we continue to<br />

stock baskets from North and Middle Caicos, along with<br />

handmade dolls dressed in <strong>the</strong> TCI native costume.<br />

Our book department is full <strong>of</strong> enthralling volumes<br />

on slavery, cuisine, diving, and island living. And don’t<br />

forget those good children on your list with plush donkeys<br />

that actually bray, floppy flamingos, pirate books,<br />

kits to make a “ship in a bottle,” and our famous book<br />

Where is Simon, Sandy?<br />

From tasty culinary salts and relaxing bath salts<br />

produced on Salt Cay to new Christmas ornaments, fabulous<br />

books, and loads <strong>of</strong> children’s items—make sure<br />

you stop at <strong>the</strong> Guinep House Gift Shop for all <strong>of</strong> your<br />

Christmas shopping.<br />

TCI Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House Hon. Robert Hall, explained <strong>the</strong> intricacies<br />

<strong>of</strong> government to Children’s Camp participants.<br />

Children’s summer camp<br />

This year we celebrate <strong>the</strong> tenth anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Children’s Club! A huge thank-you to 101.9FM and TCI<br />

Weekly News for getting <strong>the</strong> word out about <strong>the</strong> <strong>2015</strong><br />

Children’s Summer Camp, which was well attended.<br />

Educational outings kept our 8–12 year-olds smiling and<br />

inquiring as we started camp on August 24. With four<br />

days to see Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong> campers set out by foot,<br />

trolley and boat. On <strong>the</strong> first day <strong>the</strong>y learned about our<br />

Museum and its Botanical and Cultural Garden. The next<br />

day, Governor’s wife Jill Beckingham opened her historic<br />

home at Waterloo for us to visit. Thank you to Island<br />

Trams for transporting <strong>the</strong> children to and fro.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> third day, we were invited to <strong>the</strong> House <strong>of</strong><br />

Assembly by Hon. Robert Hall, Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House, to<br />

learn all about <strong>the</strong> TCI Government. On <strong>the</strong> fourth day<br />

we walked along Front Street to meet and talk with <strong>the</strong><br />

owners and staff members <strong>of</strong> various local businesses.<br />

The kids learned a lot from Grand Turk Divers, Blue Water<br />

Divers, Turks Head Inn, Osprey Hotel, LIME and finished<br />

<strong>of</strong>f with cookies from <strong>the</strong> Coral Café! Wea<strong>the</strong>r delayed our<br />

annual Gibbs Cay outing until September 26, but we had<br />

a great time. Thanks to Oasis Divers for supplying <strong>the</strong><br />

boat rides!<br />

The Children’s Camp would not have been a success<br />

without <strong>the</strong> assistance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum staff: Fred, Cecile,<br />

Nikki and Pat, along with DEMA volunteers B Naqqi Manco<br />

and Katharine Hart. The camp is free and is supported by<br />

<strong>the</strong> proceeds from Donna Seim’s book Where is Simon,<br />

Sandy? This year we have a new manager, Lavena A.<br />

“Angel” Ben and she brought new and exciting ideas!<br />

We are looking forward to our Children’s Club Saturday<br />

Camps starting in October. a<br />

Story & Photos By Museum Director Pat Saxton<br />

78 www.timespub.tc


faces and places<br />

With main sponsorship from The Wine Cellar, Turquoise Distribution, and Crystal Water, event-goers enjoyed a fun Saturday with great company<br />

and entertainment by Josh Shapiro from New York City and Karen Bizzell from <strong>the</strong> UK. Pauline Barclay along with Hazel Hegewald and<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir committee worked hard to put a seamless event toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great staff at Asú Beach Restaurant at <strong>the</strong> Alexandra Resort.<br />

Third Annual Ladies Hat Luncheon<br />

The annual fundraiser was held on November 14, <strong>2015</strong>, raising $20,000 for local children’s education. It was<br />

attended by hat-conscious ladies <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, as well as regular visitors. The location was <strong>the</strong> new<br />

Asú Beach Restaurant at <strong>the</strong> Alexandra Resort on Grace Bay Beach. There were fabulous prizes for Best Hat, Most<br />

Creative Hat, and Wow Factor Ensemble.<br />

By Claire Parrish ~ Photography Paradise Photography, www.myparadisephoto.com<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s men joined <strong>the</strong> event taking on roles including “Champagne chaperones,” judges, MC, and DJ. Jewelry designer Margo<br />

Manhatton flew in from New York City for her second year at <strong>the</strong> luncheon, donating a piece <strong>of</strong> her jewelry.<br />

Debbie Travin <strong>of</strong> New York’s Resident magazine attended to cover <strong>the</strong> event, seen above centre with organiser Pauline Barclay.<br />

Corporate tables, single tickets, along with silent and live auctions, raised <strong>the</strong> $20,000 for children’s education. Hat judges were presided<br />

over by <strong>the</strong> Honourable Chief Justice Margaret Ramsay-Hale. Politicians present included <strong>the</strong> Honourable Akierra Mary Deanne Missick and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Honourable Josephine Olivia Connolly.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 79


Crossing Africa:<br />

<strong>the</strong> journey begins<br />

Visit Turks Kebab restaurant in Provo,<br />

and you’ll likely find owner Zemar Stingl<br />

talking about her son Mario Rigby. Not<br />

only is <strong>the</strong> 30 year old “Renaissance Man”<br />

her pride and joy, but he is also walking<br />

from Cape Town, South Africa to Cairo,<br />

Egypt. One gets <strong>the</strong> sense that Blue<br />

Hills-born Zemar is sharing <strong>the</strong> journey<br />

vicariously with her son as he documents<br />

<strong>the</strong> experience on social media.<br />

Crossing Africa is a once-in-a-lifetime<br />

expedition to trek across <strong>the</strong> entire<br />

African continent by foot and paddle<br />

boat. It is a rigorous two year journey<br />

that will cover uncharted terrain through twelve countries<br />

in Africa. Every moment will be photographed,<br />

blogged, <strong>the</strong>n made into a documentary. The trek will<br />

showcase <strong>the</strong> struggles endured in unforgiving environments<br />

such as deserts, jungles, and areas <strong>of</strong> civil unrest.<br />

Mario promises to share regular updates with readers <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> as <strong>the</strong> journey progresses.<br />

According to Mario, <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> his mission is to<br />

follow <strong>the</strong> traces <strong>of</strong> his ancestors in what is a dangerous<br />

and mysterious terrain. It was an African tradition for<br />

boys to spend 3 to 5 years alone in <strong>the</strong> “bush,” learning<br />

to survive, eventually emerging as men. Mario wants to<br />

share <strong>the</strong> raw beauty and keep readers/viewers entertained<br />

with <strong>the</strong> unexpected circumstances that he will<br />

find along <strong>the</strong> way!<br />

At <strong>the</strong> same time, he wants to test <strong>the</strong> boundaries<br />

<strong>of</strong> human capabilities. He believes that with excellent<br />

planning and day-by-day goal setting, almost anything<br />

is possible. He says, “The only way to truly know who<br />

you are is to challenge yourself and push your body and<br />

mind to breaking points. In such circumstances, your<br />

true character, strength, and weakness will be revealed.<br />

This adventure will allow me to see life as it was meant<br />

to be — free, miraculous, and full <strong>of</strong> grandeur.”<br />

At press time, Mario plans to have left Toronto on<br />

November 24, <strong>2015</strong> to travel to Africa for several weeks<br />

<strong>of</strong> training prior to <strong>the</strong> trek’s <strong>of</strong>ficial start. He calculates<br />

that <strong>the</strong> total distance for <strong>the</strong> crossing is 12,000 km.<br />

His intentions are to travel solo, although he welcomes<br />

anyone who would like to join him for short durations.<br />

He expects to be sleeping/eating at <strong>the</strong> welcoming<br />

homes <strong>of</strong> strangers, camping in <strong>the</strong> wild, and staying<br />

with charitable organizations along <strong>the</strong> route.<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> summer, besides working feverishly on<br />

expedition preparations ranging from paperwork to<br />

gear ga<strong>the</strong>ring and testing to contacting schools he<br />

plans to visit along <strong>the</strong> way, Mario, a personal trainer,<br />

also trained his eight clients, six days a week. Just prior<br />

to leaving for Africa, Mario took a training walk from<br />

Toronto to Montreal in 15 days, covering over 550 km<br />

and carrying everything he needed in his pack.<br />

Ask Zemar and she is not surprised at this <strong>the</strong> latest<br />

<strong>of</strong> her son’s goals. He is also an accomplished personal<br />

trainer, pr<strong>of</strong>essional model, talented artist, and skilled<br />

photographer. He is a former semi-pro track and field<br />

athlete who has represented <strong>the</strong> TCI in competitions.<br />

Mario and his bro<strong>the</strong>r Travis were born in Grand<br />

Turk, but lived in Germany as youth. Zemar did move<br />

back to <strong>the</strong> TCI with <strong>the</strong> children, but <strong>the</strong>n emigrated to<br />

Canada. She recalls that Mario always believed in himself,<br />

with her encouragement. “I told him to make sure<br />

he experienced amazing adventures while he is still<br />

young, before he settles down. And he certainly took<br />

me up on that advice!” She adds, “He’s been researching<br />

Africa for years. He wants to be <strong>the</strong> first Caribbean<br />

man to accomplish this heroic feat. I am sure he will<br />

succeed. I plan to meet him in Cairo in 2017!" a<br />

To help Mario reach his funding goal, visit:<br />

https://www.g<strong>of</strong>undme.com/crossingafrica<br />

To track his progress, visit:<br />

https://mariorigby.wordpress.com<br />

80 www.timespub.tc


CONNOLLY KIA MOTORS<br />

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your heart desires. You need something safe and comfortable, yet versatile, dynamic and powerful. Why wait for tomorrow<br />

when you can be <strong>the</strong> owner <strong>of</strong> a Kia today?<br />

Kia has come a long way in 20 years and continues to set <strong>the</strong> pace as market leader, surpassing its own records and goals<br />

with impressive sales accomplishment and increasing brand awareness and loyalty to its customers.<br />

Connolly Kia Motors is now <strong>the</strong> exclusive distributor in TCI for Kia automobiles that are rapidly becoming <strong>the</strong> best in <strong>the</strong><br />

world. At Connolly Kia we want you to drive in style and comfort and luxury, with <strong>the</strong> right colors inside and outside.<br />

Since <strong>the</strong> 2010 World Cup Edition, Kia has become a proud sponsor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> FIFA World Cup. Kia is also a proud sponsor <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Australian Open as well as <strong>the</strong> NBA. We at Connolly Kia Motors continue to actively contribute to worthy causes, sports<br />

and education here in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. WE believe that this kind <strong>of</strong> support is useful as we seek to fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />

deepen our relationships not only with our customers but <strong>the</strong> community alike, whe<strong>the</strong>r through sports or some o<strong>the</strong>r worthwhile<br />

sponsorship.<br />

Our Motto: We lead o<strong>the</strong>rs follow!<br />

Email: Connollymotors@tciway.tc<br />

DentalSum15_Layout Facebook: Connolly 1 5/25/15 Kia Motors 12:09 PM Page 1<br />

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Tropicana Plaza, Leeward Highway<br />

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Tel: (649) 946-5300<br />

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• Botox, Dysport & Facial Fillers<br />

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For full list <strong>of</strong> treatments or to book an appointment go to<br />

www.markosmonddentalclinic.com or call<br />

(649) 432 3777<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 81


shape up<br />

Get fit with PaddleFit<br />

By Morgan Luker, PaddleFit Level 3,<br />

PaddleFit Performance Specialist, WPA Instructor<br />

As adventure sports and wellness reach global<br />

heights, it’s no wonder that fitness is redefining itself<br />

in <strong>the</strong>se sports and adventures. The Hawaiian-born<br />

sport <strong>of</strong> SUP (stand up paddleboarding) has reached an<br />

all-time participation high and so it’s only natural that<br />

a fitness program would evolve to enhance <strong>the</strong> waterperson’s<br />

lifestyle. And let’s call this PADDLEFIT.<br />

PaddleFit is a complete SUP and outdoor fitness<br />

system. The program uses land-based workouts, paddling<br />

technique, and on-water workouts at its core. The<br />

workouts are spent outdoors and on <strong>the</strong> water, taking<br />

advantage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> natural beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

beautiful seas and shores to enhance <strong>the</strong> workout<br />

experience, both physically and mentally.<br />

SURFside Ocean Academy has had extensive training<br />

in various SUP training programs, including weeks<br />

with PaddleFit founder Brody Welte and Californiabased<br />

EXOS. Their coach, Morgan Luker, has earned<br />

<strong>the</strong> accreditation <strong>of</strong> being <strong>the</strong> first PaddleFit coach in<br />

TCI. She also maintains <strong>the</strong> highest level certification<br />

being a PaddleFit Level 3 Coach and SUP Performance<br />

Specialist.<br />

Classes can be water- or land-based, or a combination<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two. All classes <strong>of</strong>fer medium- to<br />

high-intensity training in a boot camp-style set up and<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten integrate o<strong>the</strong>r fitness equipment such as TRX,<br />

IndoBoard, hurdles, and more. This training is fun,<br />

challenging, and rewarding.<br />

Classes are <strong>of</strong>fered at both Grace Bay Club and Blue<br />

Haven Resort with a SUP Sunday Funday every week at<br />

Blue Haven on <strong>the</strong> beach. For more information please<br />

contact SURFside’s PaddleFit Level 3 Coach and SUP<br />

Performance Specialist, Morgan Luker.<br />

In addition to <strong>the</strong> fitness classes, <strong>the</strong>re are technique<br />

classes, performance clinics, and ecotours<br />

available as well. These can be PaddleFit Basic (Intro to<br />

SUP), technique classes for those looking to increase<br />

performance and develop proper SUP skill from a<br />

certified coach, and <strong>the</strong> ecoSUP Tour. Morgan Luker<br />

explains, “It’s easy to pick up a stand up paddleboard<br />

and paddle and just go, but<br />

it’s best to learn proper<br />

stroke technique and safety<br />

in order to maximize your<br />

enjoyment on <strong>the</strong> water, and<br />

minimize injury as well. With<br />

our PaddleFit classes, our goal is for everyone to have<br />

fun and be safe!” See you on <strong>the</strong> water! a<br />

Morgan Luker is SURFside Ocean Academy’s PaddleFit<br />

Level 3 Coach and SUP Performance Specialist. She can<br />

be reached at 649 231 5437 or visit<br />

surfsideoceanacademy.com.<br />

82 www.timespub.tc


shape up<br />

You are what you eat<br />

By Dr. Sam Slattery<br />

The old adage, “You are what you eat,” is absolutely<br />

true. Yet in this era <strong>of</strong> “Good for you” one day and “Bad<br />

for you,” <strong>the</strong> next, how do you know what to eat? C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

is in, now c<strong>of</strong>fee is out. The kaleidoscope <strong>of</strong> dietary<br />

advice is as colourful as <strong>the</strong> packet <strong>of</strong> candies you<br />

are apparently not supposed to eat. From Atkin’s low<br />

carbs, to Paleo’s raw foods, through <strong>the</strong> exotic olive oil<br />

tossed Mediterranean diets and <strong>the</strong> gluten free Wheat<br />

Belly, <strong>the</strong> books and <strong>the</strong>ir contents meander through a<br />

chaotic maze <strong>of</strong> pseudoscience propped up by a cornucopia<br />

<strong>of</strong> scientifically unsupported hypo<strong>the</strong>ses. Yet, “No<br />

smoke without fire,” so let’s see if we can find some<br />

common sense compromise.<br />

Clearly some things are true. A quick inspection<br />

<strong>of</strong> human teeth suggests a balance between <strong>the</strong> sharp<br />

teeth <strong>of</strong> your pet dog (meat eater) and <strong>the</strong> flat grinders<br />

<strong>of</strong> your pet rabbit (plant eater) indicating a simple truth<br />

— Homo sapiens is an omnivore. We are designed to eat<br />

both. An inspection <strong>of</strong> early human habitats demonstrates<br />

a clear indication <strong>of</strong> cooking, <strong>the</strong> invention that<br />

allowed us to spread to every corner and possible place<br />

on <strong>the</strong> planet. So far, so good, we are adaptable.<br />

What is also a truth is that high fructose corn syrup<br />

was not invented until <strong>the</strong> late 1950s and was not<br />

added to food until <strong>the</strong> late 1970s, when <strong>the</strong> current<br />

epidemic <strong>of</strong> obesity, diabetes, and hypertension took<br />

<strong>of</strong>f. Coincidence? I don’t think so. Table sugar consumption<br />

has been rising steadily since 1820 but not<br />

weight — that occurred when we were told in 1980<br />

to cut out fat and <strong>the</strong> food industry added high fructose<br />

corn syrup to everything! They also cut out dietary<br />

fibres, who wants to chew?<br />

So as you enter <strong>the</strong> holiday season, here is my very<br />

simple advice to staying healthy. Turn <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> TV and<br />

throw out <strong>the</strong> processed junk food and drinks. Buy traditional<br />

whole foods, purchase a couple <strong>of</strong> saucepans<br />

and a sharp knife, grab a bottle <strong>of</strong> wine to share with<br />

family and friends, <strong>the</strong>n head to <strong>the</strong> kitchen to cook<br />

some good old-fashioned meals whilst having a good<br />

laugh and sharing <strong>the</strong> stories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year.<br />

And for a New Year’s<br />

resolution, keep going for<br />

<strong>the</strong> whole <strong>of</strong> 20<strong>16</strong>. As for<br />

proportions, 80% fruit and<br />

vegetables, 10% animal products,<br />

and 10% grains. Gift<br />

advice: Michael Pollan’s bestseller, Cooked. Good luck.<br />

a<br />

Dr. Sam Slattery has resided in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos for<br />

27 years. He trained at St Thomas’s Hospital in London,<br />

qualifying in 1984. He is <strong>the</strong> lead physician at Grace<br />

PP Scholarship:Layout Bay Medical Center 1 5/20/13 which has 11:53 <strong>of</strong>fered AM Page Urgent 1 Care<br />

and General Practice for 13 years. He was awarded<br />

his Masters (with Distinction) from London University<br />

in Gastroenterology and Nutrition in November <strong>2015</strong>.<br />

Please visit our website to see why Provo Primary<br />

School can make a difference to a child’s life...<br />

www.provoprimary.com<br />

We have applications from a number <strong>of</strong> new students<br />

requesting financial assistance for <strong>the</strong> upcoming year.<br />

We rely on a scholarship fund to be able to help <strong>the</strong>se<br />

students.<br />

This year we are reaching out to local business and<br />

private donators in order to make this difference, and<br />

help families with hopes <strong>of</strong> educating <strong>the</strong>ir child at our<br />

great school.<br />

Call us at: (649) 441 - 5638<br />

Email: director@provoprimary.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 83


about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />

Where we are<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />

The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 22 mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />

<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />

The Turks & Caicos total <strong>16</strong>6 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />

population is approximately 32,000.<br />

Getting here<br />

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />

airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />

At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />

arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />

Airport. American Airlines flies three times daily from<br />

Miami, daily service from Charlotte, and from Philadelphia<br />

on Saturday and Sunday. JetBlue Airways <strong>of</strong>fers daily service<br />

from New York/JFK and Fort Lauderdale, and from<br />

Boston on Saturday. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta<br />

daily and New York/JFK on Saturday. United Airlines travels<br />

from Newark on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and from<br />

Houston on Saturday.<br />

West Jet travels from Toronto on Wednesday and<br />

Saturday. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto on<br />

84 www.timespub.tc


Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. British Airways travels<br />

on Wednesday and Sunday from London/Heathrow via<br />

Antigua.<br />

Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;<br />

Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday, Wednesday,<br />

and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express<br />

travels to Haiti daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic daily (except Wednesday);<br />

to Jamaica on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday,<br />

and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.<br />

(Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> November <strong>2015</strong> and subject<br />

to change.)<br />

Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean<br />

Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea<br />

and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />

Language<br />

English.<br />

Time zone<br />

Eastern Standard Time/Daylight Savings Time observed.<br />

Currency<br />

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />

dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />

Climate<br />

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />

hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />

<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />

keep life comfortable.<br />

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />

and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />

Entry requirements<br />

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />

Customs formalities<br />

Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />

<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />

and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />

those charged with compressed air without prior<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 85


about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />

drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />

merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />

government revenue.<br />

Transportation<br />

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />

vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />

left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />

areas. Scooter, ATV, and bicycle rentals are also available.<br />

Telecommunications<br />

LIME Ltd. provides service on a totally digital 4G network,<br />

including pre-paid phone cards, pre-paid cellular phones,<br />

credit card, and calling card options. Broadband Internet<br />

service, with speeds as fast as 8Mbps, connects <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> to <strong>the</strong> world. Most resorts <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />

connection and <strong>the</strong>re are several private Internet cafés.<br />

Digicel operates GSM mobile networks, with a full suite <strong>of</strong><br />

4G service. LIME is <strong>the</strong> local carrier for CDMA roaming on<br />

US networks such as Verizon and Sprint. North American<br />

visitors with GSM cellular handsets and wireless accounts<br />

with AT&T or Cingular can arrange international roaming.<br />

Electricity<br />

120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />

Departure tax<br />

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />

cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />

Courier service<br />

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />

limited to incoming delivery.<br />

Postal service<br />

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />

Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />

Media<br />

Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />

transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />

Medical services<br />

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />

Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />

24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />

physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />

In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />

with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />

Immigration<br />

A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />

work permit and business license are also required to<br />

work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />

granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />

not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />

to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />

for T&C Islanders.<br />

Government/Legal system<br />

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />

Governor, HE Peter Beckingham. He presides over an executive<br />

council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />

PNP Leader Dr. Rufus Ewing is <strong>the</strong> country’s premier.<br />

The legal system is based upon English Common<br />

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />

<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />

Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />

Taxes<br />

There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />

86 www.timespub.tc


or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />

restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />

Economy<br />

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong><br />

salt. Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry,<br />

and fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with<br />

<strong>the</strong> world’s first commercial conch farm operating on<br />

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />

are imported.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />

important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />

such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />

The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />

People<br />

Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />

slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />

Churches<br />

Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />

Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />

Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />

Pets<br />

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />

results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />

clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />

Health Services.<br />

National symbols<br />

The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />

The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />

bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

“Schedule subject to change without prior notice”<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 87


National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />

bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />

dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />

and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />

<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />

Going green<br />

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />

through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />

Recreation<br />

Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,<br />

scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />

and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,<br />

and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving<br />

destination. Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an eighteen hole<br />

championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />

thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,<br />

and areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust<br />

provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as<br />

guided tours <strong>of</strong> major historical sites. There is an excellent<br />

national museum on Grand Turk, with a future<br />

branch planned for Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and<br />

a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day<br />

trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />

riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />

available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />

centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />

services.<br />

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are<br />

two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />

88 www.timespub.tc


where to stay<br />

Grand Turk<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

H<br />

The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 <strong>16</strong> • • • • • • • •<br />

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 <strong>16</strong>98 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />

Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •<br />

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />

White Sands Beach Resort – Tel 649 242 1991 • Web whitesandstci.com 130–150 <strong>16</strong> • • • • • • • • •<br />

Middle Caicos<br />

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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •<br />

North Caicos<br />

H<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–<strong>16</strong>5 14 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pine Cay<br />

H<br />

The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • •<br />

Parrot Cay<br />

H<br />

Parrot Cay COMO Resort & Spa - Tel 877 754 0726/649 946 7788 • Web www.parrotcay.como.bz 450–4370 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Providenciales<br />

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Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />

The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />

Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc <strong>16</strong>2–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />

Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />

Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 89


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where to stay<br />

Providenciales (continued)<br />

Reef Residents at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 1<strong>16</strong> • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 <strong>16</strong>5 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sibonné – Tel 800 528 1905/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 946 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Tuscany – Tel 649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanygracebay.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Venetian Grace Bay – Tel 877 277 4793 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />

Venetian Ridge Villas – Tel 649 341 8045 • Web www.VenetianRidgeVillas.com 99–149 <strong>16</strong> • • • • •<br />

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5<strong>16</strong>0 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitc.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />

West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1<strong>16</strong>3 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates US$<br />

(subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

Salt Cay<br />

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc <strong>16</strong>5–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />

The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos<br />

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />

H<br />

G<br />

Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />

Green Globe Certified • Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />

Contemporary Style with Bermudian Influences<br />

This centrally located 4 bedroom/3.5 bathroom executive family home and an additional 1 bedroom/1 bathroom nanny suite is<br />

4,545 square feet <strong>of</strong> open plan Caribbean living with exceptional breezes from its spectacular 75 feet <strong>of</strong> elevation. Located on .85<br />

acres and surrounded by natural trees and vegetation, views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island and Ocean beyond can be enjoyed from every room.<br />

Dee Agingu, Sales Executive<br />

t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.231.3534<br />

dee@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

Offered at $825,000 turksandcaicosSIR.com MLS# 1300629<br />

Anna Richardson, Sales Associate<br />

t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.232.7751<br />

anna@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

90 www.timespub.tc


dining out – providenciales<br />

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />

cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.<br />

Anacaona — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Elegant beachfront<br />

dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet Euro/Caribbean<br />

cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. Reservations required.<br />

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />

catering. Open daily 6:30 AM to 6 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />

Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 946-5807. Casual<br />

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner. Service indoors, poolside and at beach.<br />

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Carry-out available.<br />

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />

All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Full bar and wine cellar. Indoor or<br />

covered terrace seating above a tropical garden. Open daily for<br />

dinner from 6 PM. Closed Sunday. Private catering available.<br />

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Blue Iguana Grill — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 339-8741. Fun, casual,<br />

Caribbean-style restaurant and bar. Serving lunch and dinner<br />

seven days.<br />

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. The<br />

freshest seafood in Provo, conch prepared to order, rum, buckets<br />

<strong>of</strong> beer, live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Cabana Bar & Grille — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880 x 1104.<br />

Casual island fare, pizza, burgers. Open daily from 7 AM to<br />

9 PM. Tropical cocktails with a spectacular view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />

on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />

Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-<br />

8122. Generous portions <strong>of</strong> local and international fare at<br />

moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.<br />

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />

Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; something for<br />

everyone. Daily happy hour. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM; Sunday<br />

5 to 9 PM.<br />

Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />

fried chicken, native fare.<br />

Chinson Jade Garden Pastries & Deli — Leeward Highway.<br />

Tel: 941-3533. Caribbean pastries, fresh bakery and Jamaican<br />

and Chinese cuisine. Lunch buffet/take-out. Open Monday to<br />

Saturday, 7 AM to 8 PM; Sunday, 2 PM to 8 PM.<br />

Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian<br />

cuisines–light, healthy and delicious in a beautiful setting. Take-<br />

away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily Noon to 3 PM and<br />

5:30 to 10:30 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />

Serving dinner nightly from 6 PM. Closed Monday.<br />

Corner Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724. Breakfast sandwiches,<br />

specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, soups, salads, gourmet sandwiches<br />

and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to 8:30 PM.<br />

Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.<br />

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended. Catering, special<br />

events, private chef visits.<br />

Crackpot Kitchen — The Village at Grace Bay. Tel: 941-3330.<br />

Experience <strong>the</strong> Island feel, culture and <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines with an International<br />

twist. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Monday.<br />

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />

Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Danny Buoy’s Irish Pub — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921.<br />

Traditional Irish cuisine, standard American pub fare; imported<br />

draught beers. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs for sporting events.<br />

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />

and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily from Noon to 9:30<br />

PM. Bonfire buffet on Sunday evenings. Live music nightly.<br />

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833.<br />

Dine overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open to all for lunch Monday<br />

to Thursday and breakfast from 9 AM on Sunday. Friday Pub<br />

Nights, Saturday BBQ.<br />

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits in <strong>the</strong> Fire Lounge.<br />

South American-meets-Caribbean flavors and spices. Open daily.<br />

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3<strong>16</strong>7. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />

cuisine, from seafood to soup. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet on<br />

Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.<br />

Open daily Noon to 3 PM, 5:30 PM to Midnight. Closed Tuesday.<br />

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Gilley’s Cafe — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472. Burgers, sandwiches,<br />

local food. Full bar. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from 6<br />

PM nightly. Reservations required. Weddings and receptions.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 91


Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-2233.<br />

Internet café, Starbucks® c<strong>of</strong>fee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches,<br />

fresh bakery. Open daily 6 AM to 4 PM.<br />

The Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Casual<br />

oceanfront poolside bistro, serving international bistro fare.<br />

Cool cocktails at <strong>the</strong> swim-up bar. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.<br />

Havana Club — Windsong Resort. Tel: 941-7700. Fine wine,<br />

specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, decadent desserts, with comedy/magic shows<br />

on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and music and sports nights.<br />

Healthy Treats Restaurant & Deli — Touch <strong>of</strong> Class Plaza,<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 241-3318. Native Caribbean dishes, fresh<br />

juices, smoothies. Call to order.<br />

Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />

where <strong>the</strong> locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining<br />

or outdoors on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.<br />

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />

21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />

Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for<br />

steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,<br />

(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.<br />

Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:<br />

332-3388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting<br />

overlooking <strong>the</strong> sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;<br />

Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!<br />

KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />

Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />

under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily 5:30 PM to . . .<br />

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />

Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.<br />

Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Tuesday.<br />

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> Paris in TCI. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />

tapas, nightly dinner specials. Open daily 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Closed Sunday.<br />

Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

941-4487. Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,<br />

croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to<br />

7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />

world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian “comfort<br />

food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made<br />

gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />

bar opens at 4 PM.<br />

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Old favorites in a<br />

new location. Fresh local flavors and seafood, homemade desserts.<br />

Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Set price dinner on weekdays.<br />

Children’s menu. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />

Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.<br />

Carefully crafted selection <strong>of</strong> sumptous and inspired sundaes,<br />

with c<strong>of</strong>fee, champagne and cocktails for <strong>the</strong> grown-ups! Open<br />

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />

Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.<br />

Serving fresh local seafood straight from <strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10<br />

AM to 11 PM.<br />

Noodle Bar + Kitchen — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550.<br />

Delicious rice and noodle dishes and hearty staples with<br />

uniquely Caribbean flavors and spices. Open for lunch and dinner<br />

daily to 9:30 PM.<br />

Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill<br />

International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving<br />

dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor<br />

dining. Conference facility, events, catering.<br />

Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in<br />

a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private<br />

dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.<br />

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />

flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Eric Wood <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

a global palate, interpreted locally. Lobster tank. Seafood raw<br />

bar. Open daily for breakfast and dinner; Sunday Brunch.<br />

Pelican Bay — Royal West Indies Resort. Tel: 941-2365.<br />

Poolside restaurant and bar with French, Caribbean and Asian<br />

fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />

and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />

Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront<br />

restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11<br />

PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.<br />

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />

Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local<br />

flair. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,<br />

burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.<br />

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Wednesday to<br />

Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />

72West — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining<br />

with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch<br />

daily; dinner seasonally.<br />

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />

941-5090. Varied menu. Sports bar/game room with slots. Open<br />

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />

92 www.timespub.tc


Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees and teas, sandwiches, salads and soup, pastries, as well<br />

as gelato, sorbetto, smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM<br />

to 7 PM.<br />

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 946-5746. Modern<br />

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. Beach bar and grill<br />

open for lunch 11:30 AM to 5 PM daily.<br />

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />

lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-<br />

5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.<br />

Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.<br />

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — New location dockside at Turtle<br />

Cove Inn. Tel: 941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood,<br />

Black Angus beef, pasta, pizzas and fresh fish. Wednesday<br />

chicken or rib special. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Breakfast on<br />

weekends.<br />

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />

Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Serving lunch from<br />

11:30 AM to 2 PM; snacks with wine and drinks from 5:30 PM<br />

and dinner from 7:30 PM daily. Closed on Tuesday.<br />

The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. High-end<br />

cuisine and <strong>the</strong> finest wines in an inviting ambiance. Open daily<br />

for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Yoshi’s Japanese Restaurant — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374.<br />

Sushi bar menu plus Wagyu beef, Japanese curries. Open daily<br />

Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel: 342-<br />

2472. Sophistication meets class at <strong>the</strong> new tapas eatery and<br />

entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.<br />

dining out – north caicos<br />

Club Titters — Bottle Creek. Tel: 946-73<strong>16</strong>. Local dishes for<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live music weekends.<br />

Higgs’ Café — Sandy Point Marina. Tel: 242-9426 or 341-9084.<br />

Local cuisine served daily from 7 AM.<br />

Last Chance Bar & Grill Club — Bottle Creek. Tel: 232-4141.<br />

Waterfront dining. American and Caribbean dishes. Open 10:30<br />

AM for breakfast and lunch; dinner by reservation.<br />

Pappa Grunt’s Seafood Restaurant — Whitby Plaza. Tel/fax:<br />

946-7301. Native & American cuisine daily.<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel — Tel: 946-7112. Well known for native<br />

conch, lobster, grouper and snapper dishes.<br />

Silver Palm Restaurant — Whitby. Tel: 946-7113/244-4186.<br />

Local seafood and international cuisine. Home-baked breads<br />

and desserts. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Screened patio.<br />

Super D Café — At airport. Tel: 946-7258. Local dishes.<br />

dining out – south caicos<br />

Eastern Inn Restaurant — Stamers Street. Tel: 946-3301.<br />

Ocean & Beach Resort — Cockburn Harbour. Tel: 946 3219.<br />

Native cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Pond View Restaurant — Tel: 946-3276. Native cuisine.<br />

dining out – middle caicos<br />

Daniel’s Restaurant — Conch Bar. Tel: 245-2298/232-6132.<br />

Local seafood, homemade breads. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Call<br />

ahead for groups and dinner reservations.<br />

dining out – grand turk<br />

Bird Cage Restaurant — Osprey Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-1453.<br />

Full bar & restaurant. Lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Guanahani — Bohio Resort. Tel: 946-2135. Gourmet menu <strong>of</strong><br />

French, Italian and Asian influence with a Caribbean twist. Open<br />

daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />

The Inn Restaurant & Bar — Grand Turk Inn. Tel: 431-0466.<br />

A taste <strong>of</strong> Asian fusions. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />

Closed on Tuesday.<br />

Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville — Grand Turk Cruise Center.<br />

High energy bar and restaurant. Swim-up pool bar and signature<br />

menu <strong>of</strong> grilled favorites.<br />

Sand Bar Restaurant — Manta House Beach. Tel: 946-1111.<br />

Quinessential beach bar serving local seafood specialties. Open<br />

for lunch and dinner, Sunday to Friday.<br />

Secret Garden — Salt Raker Inn. Tel: 946-2260. Local &<br />

American dishes in a garden courtyard. English breakfast.<br />

Weekly BBQ and sing-alongs.<br />

dining out –salt cay<br />

Coral Reef Bar & Grill — Tel: 232-1009. Breakfast, lunch and<br />

dinner daily on <strong>the</strong> beach. Full service bar.<br />

Pat’s Place — Island-style garden restaurant in historic district.<br />

Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Porter’s Island Thyme — Tel: 242-0325. Gourmet island dining<br />

in open air dining room. Full bar. a<br />

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Web: islandautorentals.tc<br />

For Vehicle Rental in<br />

Grand Turk call<br />

232 0933 or 946 2042<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2015</strong>/<strong>16</strong> 93


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Please allow 30 to 60 days for delivery <strong>of</strong> first issue.<br />

94 www.timespub.tc


TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS


Island Living<br />

beyond <strong>the</strong> extraordinary ...<br />

Sapodilla Bay Estate<br />

THE FINEST COLLECTION<br />

Condominium | Home & Villa | Land<br />

649.946.4474 | info@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />

Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club, The Palms, The Sands<br />

So<strong>the</strong>by’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to So<strong>the</strong>by’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. Each <strong>of</strong>fice is independently owned and operated.

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