Ski Country Magazine 2016 - Guide to skiing the southwest
Your source for information on skiing, snowboarding and winter recreation in the southern Rockies, with striking photography and unusual articles. Serving Angel Fire, Taos, Taos Ski Valley, Red River, Sipapu, Pajarito, Purgatory at Durango, South Fork, Wolf Creek, Ski Apache, southern Colorado and the Enchanted Circle area in northern New Mexico. Arts, culture, activities, event calendar, dining and lodging information in area towns. This issue: "Tale-spinning in the high desert"; "Welcome to the southern Rockies: Winter Wants to Dance" about living and playing in a cold climate; "Name that Run," about origins of ski run names.
Your source for information on skiing, snowboarding and winter recreation in the southern Rockies, with striking photography and unusual articles. Serving Angel Fire, Taos, Taos Ski Valley, Red River, Sipapu, Pajarito, Purgatory at Durango, South Fork, Wolf Creek, Ski Apache, southern Colorado and the Enchanted Circle area in northern New Mexico. Arts, culture, activities, event calendar, dining and lodging information in area towns. This issue: "Tale-spinning in the high desert"; "Welcome to the southern Rockies: Winter Wants to Dance" about living and playing in a cold climate; "Name that Run," about origins of ski run names.
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
WINTER 2016
SkiCountry
GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST
Angel Fire
Chama
Durango
Pajarito
Red River
Sipapu
South Fork
Ski Apache
Taos
Taos Ski Valley
Wolf Creek
1
Cool gear.
Hot fashion.
Angel Fire’s Top Shop
Near the Resort Hotel
wintersportsskishop.com
575.377.6612
Ski Reservation Hotline:
575.377.6559
2
SKI AS MUCH AS YOU WANT, WHEN YOU WANT, WHERE YOU WANT.
THE POWER TO CHOOSE
FOUR MOUNTAINS. ONE PASS. UNLIMITED POSSIBLITIES.
MORE THAN 3,000 ACRES OF TERRAIN • 29 LIFTS • OVER 200 TRAILS • 13 TERRAIN PARKS • COUNTLESS FAMILY MEMORIES
t h e s o u t h w e s t ’ s l a r g e s t f a m i l y o f s k i r e s o r t s
3
Contents
Welcome
6
21
Wolf Creek Ski Area, Red River Ski Area
Historic Hotels
8
22
Durango Mountain Resort, Sipapu, Pajarito
Our Towns
10
23
Ski Apache
Tale-spinning in the High Desert
15
25
Alpine Lodges
Historic Hotels
16
26
Name That Run
Ski the Southwest
19
28
Time to Dine
Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire Resort
20
30
Calendar
PHOTO: GERAINT SMITH
Publisher/Editor Joe Haukebo
Design/Production Digerati Design
Advertising Sales Christine Pedler
Contributing Writers John Biscello, Gustav Herold
Photography Chris McClennan, Carol Morgan Eagle,
Geraint Smith, Gak Stonn,
Cover photo Geraint Smith – Rio Grande
HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are
published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material
in this publication may not be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the Publisher.
Requests for permission should be directed to:
Hawk Media
PO Box 182, Angel Fire, NM 87710
575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047
info@hawk-media.com
Scan the QR code or visit us at www.hawk-media.com
for more articles, photos & e-zines
Angel
Fire
Winter wants
to dance
Welcome to the southern Rockies
6
866.668.7787
AngelFireFun.com
n 1831, mountaineer Albert Pike
I trekked across the Sangre de Cristo
Mountains in the dead of winter – a
rough one, killer cold – trudging
through deep snow and ice. He finally
stumbled into Taos half-frozen and
severely frostbitten. His moccasined
feet had swelled to four times their
normal size. His Mexican host roasted
onions and packed them around Pike’s
feet; the swelling eventually subsided
and he regained their normal use.
As a kid growing up near the
Minnesota-Canada border – the deep
freeze of the nation – I wished we knew
about the onion trick. We’d play hockey
outside after school and after dinner
and regularly freeze our feet. When we
couldn’t feel them any more, we’d crawl
indoors and moan while we rubbed our
toes, trying to rub away the numbness,
then rub away the jabbing needles as
they started to thaw. Our feet felt like
freezer-burned meat. And we did this
on a regular basis. We knew it made no
sense, but it was winter and you don’t
want to miss out – winter wants
to dance.
We did all kinds of different
dances. From the early days, we were
bundled up in bulky snowsuits and
woollen mittens that grew heavier as
the snow stuck to them. The suits, for
the most part, kept out the snow and
cold but they were so cumbersome,
if you plopped down to make a snow
angel, it was tough to get back up – you
worried about being stuck there awhile.
But as little kids we always had
plenty of thing to worry about, things
our older siblings told us to watch out
for: monster icicles falling from rooftops
and splitting your head open like
a melon; snow snakes that tripped you
and dragged you away; wandering lost
and snow-blind in blizzards that lasted
for days; temperatures so cold you could
freeze your lungs and spit ice. Our ripe
imaginations could easily take over.
The silence of a cold winter day only
helped make it worse. But we braved
the elements inside and out to build
snow caves or fly downhill on sleds. Our
play grew bolder, more reckless. We
graduated to hockey, bombing enemies
with snowballs, ice fishing, snowmobiles,
snurfing on ice behind cars or
skiing behind cars in interstate ditches.
Many milestone memories were created,
like no longer thinking of girls as icky,
but holding gloved hands and skating
around a dimly lit rink. Our fears and
hopes changed.
And when winter threw its best
stuff at us, we learned to tough it out.
Old-timers taught us when netting
whitefish under the ice that it was best
in sub-zero weather to freeze one bare
hand on purpose. They’d show us how.
You shove a cupped hand into the hole
of water where you pull the net out.
Your hand would freeze into a claw,
which was good for unsnagging fish from
the gill net.
While we might freeze on purpose
a hand for fish, we learned how not to
accidentally freeze to death. I remember
40° below weather with a windchill of
100° below, and snowmobiling – if anything
was exposed, you were in trouble,
frostbit face, fingers, whatever. Once
temperatures get that low, it doesn’t
The life
up high
seem to matter how low the numbers get. It’s just
arctic cold.
Here in the southern Rockies, we have our
share of big bad wolf winters that come lumbering
into the mountains, pushed by howling winds or
dumping snow for days until the system lightens its
load enough to lift and move on. Old-timers here
talk about seven-footers in one blast, deep enough
to bury snowmobiles where you can’t find them,
drifts mounded up to the roof. Or ice storms that
could suffocate cattle or require helicopters to airlift
feed. People hunker down and ride out the storm.
It’s tougher on the animals.
This winter is supposed to be an El Niño year.
And with luck, we’ll get some superstorms. Storms
and freezing weather that make cars cranky, coughing
and groaning before starting. Driveways that
you shovel, and before you finish you have to start
over again. Pipes that freeze and bust. Tree branches
that snap. Roofs that avalanche.
But we’re lucky. Unlike so many parts of the
nation, we are blessed with the famous Southwest
sun – more sunny ski days than almost anywhere
on the planet. So we don’t have to hide all day
indoors; we can play outside until we’re worn out.
Then, we come in to rest and sit by a roaring piñon
fire, sip something warm, savor the smells of green
chile stew or chantrelle mushroom goulash cooking
on the stove.
Outside, you hear another storm brewing, the
mounting wind rattling the windows. Then the first
pellets of sleet pound the window pane you’re looking
out just before dark. The sleet turns to snow and
caught by a gust slants sideways across the window,
spinning and swirling. Behind the window and the
snow large pines rock back and forth on the wind
and behind that, an endless gray. The only sound is
the occasional burst of wind and roar of the storm,
an icy music. Winter is there, calling you, waiting
to dance.
— Joe Haukebo, Publisher
cross country
snowmobile
snowboard
sleigh ride
snowshoe
downhill
ice fish
shop
tube
dine
sled
Angel Fire is
7
Historic Hotels
Hotel La Fonda de Taos
The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the
heart of the historic district on Taos Plaza,
La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while
preserving its rich Southwestern roots and
ambience. Home to Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop
and D.H. Lawrence’s “Forbidden Art Collection.”
Nineteen rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse.
Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to
galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, and fine dining.
108 SOUTH PLAZA, TAOS, NEW MEXICO
WWW.LAFONDATAOS.COM 800.833.2211 505.758.2211
The Historic Taos Inn
Experience Southwestern charm and history at The
Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos, New Mexico.
Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of
America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and NM
Registers of Historic Places. 44 rooms and suites, most
with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s
Restaurant and The Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour
4-6 Monday-Friday; free live music nightly.
125 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE, TAOS, NEW MEXICO
TAOSINN.COM 575.758.2233
St. James Hotel
Where western history – and the paranormal – come
alive. The historic St. James Hotel, built in 1872, has
hosted a smorgasbord of famous outlaws and Wild West
legends including Clay Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt
Earp. Today, it continues its tradition with fine dining and
comfortable rooms and a restored western restaurant and
bar. Ghosts, each with their own obsessions
and rituals, are said to still haunt the place.
617 SOUTH COLLISON, CIMARRON, NEW MEXICO, 87714
WWW.EXSTJAMES.COM 888.376.2664 575.376.2664
8
PHOTO: WWW.CAROLMORGANEAGLE.COM
Slots | Blackjack | 100% Smoke Free
The
Fun
Starts
Here
Come have fun at
Taos Mountain Casino.
Our friendly and
dedicated staff is here
to give you great
service while you relax
and enjoy the fun and
games.
700 Veterans Highway | Taos, New Mexico 87571 | 575-737-0777
South of historic Taos Pueblo | TaosMountainCasino.com
9
10
Our Towns
Angel Fire
Chama
Cimarron
Durango
Eagle Nest
I prefer winter…when you feel the bone
structure of the landscape – the loneliness
of it, the dead feeling of winter. Something
waits beneath it, the whole story
doesn’t show.
— Andrew Wyeth
Wyeth’s ode to winter, and its
subtle undercurrents, would be a
fitting prologue for tales of winter set in
Northern New Mexico and the southern
Rockies. The year-round or rather
timeless mystique and aura permeating
these regions takes on a stark and coldly
luminous level of beauty and wonder
during the winter season. Matriarchal
mountains cotton-swabbed in snow,
deep silences flooding chasms and pine
forests, wide-spanning skies reflecting a
complexion of fleece and chalk. Yet this
slow and meditative pulse is counter-balanced
by the numerous celebrations
and adrenaline-boosting activities that
give the area its ritual charge. What you
might call: Zen and the Art of Winter
Merrymaking.
Taos—high-desert iconoclast,
mountain-maned black sheep, traditionalist
with an anarchic streak—there are
many ways in which this Northern New
Mexico town can be pegged, but ultimately
its character remains undefinable.
“Yuletide in Taos” is the umbrella term
for the various celebrations that take
place during the holiday season. Two
historic streets, Bent and Ledoux, are
fire-kindled and given a festive makeover
for local favorites: The Lighting
of Ledoux (December 5) and Bonfires
on Bent Street (December 12). The
religious spirit of the holidays is quintessentially
captured in the Las Posadas
reenactments (December 14-21) at the
San Francisco de Assis Church, which
marked its 200th anniversary in 2015.
Taos Pueblo, the oldest continuously
inhabited community in North
Continued on page 13
Red River
South Fork
Taos
Taos Pueblo
Taos Ski Valley
PHOTOS: GERAINT SMITH
11
ABOVE THE
ORDINARY
OPEN 7 DAYS
Fast, Friendly Checkout
Fruits & Veggies
Fresh Meats
Fine Wine & Spirits
Fine Tobacco
Subway
DOING THE LITTLE EXTRAS TO SERVE OUR CUSTOMERS
575.377.2354 • 3373 Highway 434 • Angel Fire, NM 87710
America, provides the sacred Christmas
Eve setting for a procession and
mood-evocative bonfires. On Christmas
Day, the spirit of winter is honored
through the Taos Pueblo Deer Danceor
Matachine Dance.
Taos Ski Valley, celebrating its
60th season, recently lost its “First Lady,”
Rhoda Blake, who was the nuts and
bolts behind the Blake family’s 58-year
stewardship of TSV. Sold to billionaire
conservationist, Louis Bacon, in 2013,
TSV is undergoing expansion, with base
area additions to include a new hotel,
retail space, equipment rentals, restaurant,
and spa. The Kachina lift, completed
in 2014, serves the highest elevation
of any triple chair in North America
(12,481 feet). As for one’s inspired
downward trajectory on the slopes, there
are multiple options: skiing, snowboarding,
sledding, tubing and snow-shoeing.
Bacchus enjoys elevated status during
the ever-popular Winter Wine Festival
(January 27-31), which is celebrating its
30th year.
When it comes to breath-arresting
pyrotechnics, the sunsets at Angel Fire,
after which the resort town is named,
bring an all-natural glow to the snowcapped
mountain peaks. There are 76
skiing and snowboarding trails, suitable
for all age levels, and the Polar Coaster,
the largest tubing park in the southern
Rockies, is the unofficial leader in
“squealish delight” (see: Child’s Play).
Two rollicking events, in which spirits
are raised and grooves laid: Big Ol’ Texas
Weekend (January 22-24) and Angel Fire
Mardi Gras celebration (February 5-9).
Red River, known for its Main
Street quaintness and Texas-sized appetite
for good times, exercises a happy
middle ground with its ski base located in
the center of town. An old-time tradition
that was revived in recent years, the Winter
Carnival and Parade of Ice (January
15-17) features ice sculptures, snowmobile
races, snowman building, live music,
torchlight parades, fireworks, and more.
And for those who’d like to enjoy a Willy
Wonka-fied version of skiing, there’s Just
Desserts Eat and Ski (February 27) in
which the indulgence of homemade desserts
sweetens the five-kilometer course at
Enchanted Forest.
It’s been a while since
anyone seriously mined
Baldy, and gambling here
is a thing of the past,
but there’s still gold in
Eagle Nest – the lake
sports some of the best
trout fishing in the state.
Kokanee salmon join
recordbreaking rainbows,
cutthroats and other fish
in an effort to beguile
locals and visitors alike.
Formerly a goldfever
boomtown, Chama is set in the awe-inspiring
Rio Chama Valley. Hitting
the slopes, ice fishing on the Heron
Reservoir, or riding the rails on the
Cumbres-Toltec Scenic Railroad are
several ways to experience the area. The
43rd Annual Chama Chile Ski Classic,
a cross-country ski event, takes place
on Martin Luther King, Jr. weekend in
January.
Durango could be the charming
town you find inside a snow globe, or
the unsung verse in “Winter Wonderland.”
At the heart of its winter
fun is Purgatory, the mountain resort
which offers 35,000 acres of ski-friendly
terrain. Snowboarding, snowshoeing,
dog sledding, and sleigh rides are other
means by which to traverse Purgatory.
Caroling, hot chocolate, and a reading
of The Polar Express, are part of “The
Polar Express,” which takes place on the
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge
Railroad through the holidays. This
year’s “Snowdown,” a popular weeklong,
activity-filled event, brings the
spirit, fashion, and flair of the 1980s
back into vogue (January 27-31).
As the inspired and elevated gateway
to the San Juan Mountains,
Rio Grande County, which includes
South Fork, Monte Vista and Del
Norte, is a winter playground with
lots of room to spare. Wolf Creek, just
outside of South Fork, is powder-packed
heaven for skiers, receiving the highest
amount of snowfall in Colorado. South
Fork’s “Winterfest” (December 11 and
12) features sleigh rides, cocoa-sipping,
Christmas crafts, and a visit from old St.
Nick himself. Monte Vista, home of the
National Wildlife Refuge Center, celebrates
its 33rd annual “Crane Festival”
(March 11-13). Del Norte offers natural
splendors in various forms, including
Lookout Mountain, Elephant Rocks, and
Penitente Canyon, one of Colorado’s
premier sport climbing areas.
– John Biscello
13
14
Tale-spinning in the high desert
In the beginning was the word
“Who is the storyteller? Of whom is the
story told? What is there in the darkness to
imagine into being? What is there to dream
and to relate? What happens when I or
anyone exerts the force of language upon
the unknown? ... If there is any absolute
assumption in back of my thoughts…it is
this: that we are what we imagine. Our
very existence consists in our imagination of
ourselves. Our best destiny is to imagine at
last, completely, who, and what, and that
we are. The greatest tragedy that can befall
us is to go unimagined.”
– N. Scott Momaday,
The Way to Rainy Mountain
Y
ou could say that storytelling
is the descendant of an innate
and ageless spirituality, or the genetic
sibling to Necessity, the mother of
invention. We, as human beings, frame
ourselves, our inner lives, our history
and traditions, our sorrows and follies,
in the context of language. In the
Navajo culture, a child does not acquire
human status until he or she masters
the art of speaking a language.
New Mexico, a veritable Wonderland
gumbo of legends, tales, and
parables, seasons its canon with accents
and spices rooted in the Native and
Hispanic cultures. The region itself seems
a gateway to “otherness,” a breeding
ground for metaphor and myth, or sacred
placeholder for fugitive voices. Apache,
Navajo and Pueblo mythology chronicle
an emergence from underworlds into
this world: a “middle place” or “middle
world.” The Acoma creation myth tells of
two female humans, born underground in
Shipapu, and their ascent from the darkness
below to the lighted world above.
This, perhaps, is what storytelling is at
its core: a bridge between worlds, or an
illuminating torch being passed from one
generation to the next. Through words
communion is achieved, and a sense of
discovery renewed.
By the light of the fire
“Our ancestors have been telling stories to
their children since 1598, when the first
Spanish families settled along the Chama
River in Northern New Mexico. A
400-year-old tradition began during that
first harsh winter, when the warmth of rustic
hearths beckoned and warmed the settlers
throughout their first winters. It was many
years ago while growing up in Penasco, NM
. . . that a seed for storytelling was planted in
me. The fondest memories I have from my
childhood are when my mother would relate
cuentos, or stories, to us.”
– Paulette Atencio,
Cuentos from Long Ago
A cold winter’s night and crackling
fireplace have set the domestic stage for
many a storyteller. Through voice and
gesture alone, family elders would guide
children into worlds of enchantment,
intrigue, and terror. Juan B. Rael, a native
of Arroyo Hondo, and the author of
Cuentes Epsañoles de Colorado y Nuevo
México, recalled: “An old neighbor of
ours, the aunt of one of my playmates,
was a gifted storyteller, and my friend and
I would often listen to her fascinating stories
about giants, witches, thieves, rogues,
and clever animals. It was a special treat
to listen to her during the long winter
nights as she sat by the fireplace, which
dimly illuminated her large but scantily
furnished living room. The leaping shadows
on the whitewashed walls, produced
by the flickering flames in the hearth,
added a mysterious background to the
stories we heard…” Riddles were another
part of the Hispanic storytelling tradition,
with children being challenged to find
the answer. One example: I went into the
country and found someone who crossed
himself. He is a saint, yet he is not a
Christian. Who might it be? (Answer:
The Holy Thistle.)
In Zuni culture, tales, or telapnaawe,
were told in winter, to avoid attracting
snakes and snake-bite, and generally
told at night, lest the days be shortened.
“The ability to create the appearance
of reality is clearly the most important
measure of the individual Zuni narrator’s
skill and success, ranking above such
considerations as accuracy or memory or
size of repertoire. Ashuwa (a Zuni male)
said: ‘Some are good storytellers not just
because they may know the story, but
because of their voices and gestures, and
they make it exciting. Some tell it like
they were actually part of it, had witnessed
it.’”
– Dennis Tedlock,
“The Ethnography of Tale-Telling
at Zuni”
Her Majesty, the Moon
The moon, as the cosmic pope of
lovers, lunatics and werewolves, has
been a popular lead in many stories
and legends throughout history. In
1894, trailblazing writer, photographer,
adventurer, and anthropologist, Charles
Lummis, who claimed to have invented
the term “Southwest,” collected stories
from the Isleta Pueblo people and published
them in a book titled The Man
Who Married the Moon. The story of
Continued on page 17
15
The Family Vacation of
a Lifetime…
Any Time
of Year!
he Riverside sprawls
T comfortably over three
acres of beautifully landscaped
grounds, only 50
feet from the Copper Chairlift.
Families love our wonderful playground, lawn games, BBQ area and hot
tub. Amenities include telephones, kitchens, fireplaces, satellite TV, DVD
players and free wireless internet at very reasonable rates. We now have
laundry services, too. Ask about our off-season and Wednesday Free
packages!
800.432.9999 575.754.2252
www.RedRiver-NM.com
Simply the best liquor store in northern NM
Competitive Prices
Largest Selection • Friendly Staff
Temperature-Controlled Wine Cellar
505.455.2219
kokoman@cybermesa.com
34 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoque, NM 87506
Hwy 84-285, Pojoaque, NM 12 miles N. of Santa Fe
OVER 3,500 WINES • 1000 BEERS • 390 VODKAS
222 TEQUILAS • 105 SINGLE MALT SCOTCHES • 157 RUMS
16
TALE-SPINNING – Continued from page 15
the same name, which appears in the
collection, tells of the powerful and
beloved Nah-chu-r´u-chu (“The Bluish
Light of Dawn”) and his marriage to the
Moon, a beautiful maiden, blind in one
eye, who at that time dwelled among
the people and not in the sky. After
the Moon is drowned and buried by the
jealous Yellow-Corn-Maiden sisters, a
heartbroken Nah-chu-r´u-chu dispatches
different animals to find his missing
wife. It is Turkey-buzzard who spies a
mound, covered with all the different
flowers in the world, in the middle of a
cottonwood forest, and through a single
tiny white flower Nah-chu-r´u-chu
resurrects the Moon, who punishes the
Yellow-corn-maidens by turning them
into snakes.
A poetic take on why the Moon has
one eye is covered in a parable known
throughout various Pueblo cultures. The
Trues, the unseen spirits behind creation,
made the Sun, the father, and the Moon,
the mother, who were to keep watch over
the world, The problem was both the Sun
and the Moon, with four luminous eyes
between them, kept the world aglow in
light, and without dark the people did
not know when to rest, the birds flew
non-stop, the flowers stayed open day and
night. The Trues decided to put out one
of the Sun’s eyes, but the Moon offered
her eye in place of her husband’s, and
with partial blindness came the respite of
night. And, as the tale concludes, “But
she who first had the love of children,
and paid for them with pain as mother’s
pay, she did not grow ugly by her sacrifice.
Nay, she is lovelier than ever… For the
Trues are good to her, and gave her in the
place of the bloom of girlhood the beauty
that is only in the faces of mothers.”
Bewitched, Bothered,
Bewildered
When it comes to supernatural
terror, the reigning queen in Hispanic
folklore is La Llorona. Her ambiguous
origins might go back to 16th century
Mexico City, or could be the offshoot of
Die Weisse Frau, or “the White Lady,” an
old German legend about a peasant girl
who falls in love with and is abandoned
by a young aristocrat, murders her bastard
children, goes insane and dies a violent
death, only to return as a malignant
specter. Traditionally, there are three
incarnations of La Llorona that appear
in Hispanic tales—the siren, the grieving
woman, and the woman who poses a
threat to children—with her signature
weeping or wailing providing the eerie
soundtrack to this “living” horror movie.
Back in the day, parents in Hispanic
families employed the “phantom threat”
of La Llorona to keep their children from
playing in the arroyos and acequias, two
of her favorite haunts.
El Santuario de Chimayo (the
Sanctuary of Chimayo), renowned for
its healing “holy dirt,” is also the home
to a miraculously light traveler: El Santo
Niño de Atocha (The Holy Child of
Atocha). He is also called Santo Niño
Perdido (The Lost Holy Child) because,
as the story goes, he departs the church
at night and travels the countryside to
perform miracles. In aiding and abetting
the intrepid miracle-worker, villagers and
visitors leave baby shoes at the feet of El
Niño, to replace his “worn-out” shoes.
The Best Medicine
In the late 1950s and early 1960s,
during a prolific period of space exploration
by the Russians and the Americans,
the Newekwe clowns of the Zuni pueblo
incorporated “space burlesque” into their
performance. Barbara Tedlock states in
her essay, “Boundaries of Belief” that
the clowns’ goal was “to startle and even
shock the audience in order to get a
response, perhaps a sudden laugh, or at
least a gasp of disapproval. In doing so
they ‘get to the people,’ they ‘open them,’
and release them from internal idle
thoughts or worries… The space program
was a source of general (and one might
say visceral) worry at Zuni, and so… for
more than ten years the clowns trivialized,
folklorized, and negated both its
religious threat and its scientific seriousness.”
Clowns function as powerful
medicine men and shamans in many
Native American cultures, as ritual healing
takes place beneath the mirth and
inspired madness. If Voltaire was right
when he said, “God is a comedian playing
to an audience too afraid to laugh,” then
clowns might be regarded as masked
angels dispensing the best, and most
necessary medicine.
A four-legged Harlequin that
figures prominently in Native American
legends and lore is Coyote, whose exploits
were once explained by a Navajo
storyteller, Yellowman, to author, Barre
Toelken: “Why does Coyote do all those
things, foolish on one occasion, good
on another, terrible on another? ‘If he
did not do all those things, then those
things would not be possible in the
world.’ Yellowman thus sees Coyote less
as a Trickster per se and more as an
enabler whose actions, good or bad,
Continued on page 27
17
Discover
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
Uncrowded Slopes
Miles of Groomers
New Terrain Park with Dedicated Lift
Panoramic Views
New Mexico’s Only Nighttime Skiing
angelfireresort.com 866-383-7969
Home of the World
Championship Shovel Races
February 6, 2016
18
a
PURGATORY
AT DURANGO
Durango
•
•
Pagosa
Springs
WOLF CREEK
SKI aAREA
•
South
Fork
COLORADO
NEW MEXICO
Chama •
RED RIVER
SKI AREA
a
Red
River
•
ENCHANTED
aFOREST XC
Ski the
Southwest
You can ride almost anywhere in the world. But
nowhere in the world do you get our magical mix of
Southwestern sun and snow, culture and cuisine,
wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape is
stunning – from high alpine terrain above treeline to a
huge rip in the earth.
Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls, cruisers,
and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks.
Treks into the backcountry are beautiful and boss.
Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll discover
fresh pockets of adventure and feel this winter
completely, utterly alive.
And at day’s end, when your thighs are screaming,
slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile
cheeseburger. Nothing like it anywhere.
a
PAJARITO
SKI AREA
Los Alamos •
a•
Albuquerque
SANDIA SKI AREA
• Ruidoso
• Taos
a• Santa Fe
a
SKI APACHE
SANTA FE
SKI BASIN
a
TAOS SKI
VALLEY
aSIPAPU
SKI RESORT
•
Eagle
Nest
Angel
Fire
a•
ANGEL FIRE
RESORT
MAP SHOWS APPROXIMATE LOCATIONS. DISTANCES NOT TO SCALE.
PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / DMR
19
Flanked by sacred wilderness,
rugged peaks and
multicultural vibes, there’s
a reason Taos Ski Valley sits
in the center of New
Mexico’s Enchanted Circle.
Located 50 miles south of
the Colorado border, Taos
Ski Valley is a mystical
haven for 300+ inches of
bone-dry powder stashes
and some of the most
untamed chutes, bowls and
glades in North America.
And with nearly half of all
trails rated for beginners
and intermediates, its unpolished
charm and cheeky
mountain rituals welcome
TAOS SKI VALLEY
anyone with a spirit of adventure.
Our new base area
developments will include
a new hotel, retail space,
equipment rentals, restaurant
and spa. TSV’s Ernie
Blake Snowsport School
is still world-class, the
terrain park is deluxe, and a
shuttle runs daily from the
Albuquerque airport. TSV
continues its commitment
to keeping it green with
mountain-wide
recycling and energy
conservation. See the
interactive trail map online.
skitaos.org
866-968-7386
When the snow flies, Angel
Fire is a winter wonderland
with an abundance
of adventures for all ages
and abilities. For skiers and
snowboarders, Angel Fire
Mountain offers over 560
acres of terrain with rolling
cruisers, gladed tree runs,
three terrain parks and one
of New Mexico’s top ski and
snowboard schools. Off the
slopes, the adventure continues
with the Polar Coaster
Tubing Hill, the Nordic
Center with over 15 km of
terrain and the sledding hill
at the Nordic Center for
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
kids 12 and under. Our three
terrain parks are ready for all
ability levels, with features
that include rails, jumps,
tabletops and fun boxes.
Terrain includes 80 runs,
more than 30 acres of gladed
tree skiing, NASTAR
racing, Polar CoasterTubing
Hill, and a lighted beginner
slope for New Mexico’s
only night-time skiing and
snowboarding. And don’t
miss great live music in the
Village Haus when the lifts
are running after dark.
angelfireresort.com
800-633-7463
This year, all ski areas
are supporting and
implementing Lids On
Kids, a snowsport safety
awareness program.
Know the code.
lidsonkids.org
20
PHOTO: JASON LOMBARD, COURTESY WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
After a summer of frequent
rainstorms, Wolf Creek is focusing
on maintaining safety
by removing hazard trees
and transplanting healthy
ones, and by improving
avalanche hazard reduction
with our new Gazex and
Avi Blasters which work
by generating powerful
shock waves, not explosions,
to release dangerous
snow buildup. Our biggest
on-mountain project is
completing the Race Hutch
building with power for race
timing equipment, cameras
and speakers, an observation
area, and storage for race
gear. Improvements are also
being made to our ski and
snowboard rental department
with the introduction
of premium demo skis,
snowboards, boots and an
online reservation system, as
Wolf Creek moves into digitizing
rentals and ski school
reservations both on-site
and online. Seniors (65 -
79) get their own lift tickets
and season passes this year,
as well as specially-priced
clinics and Local Appreciation
days. Wolf Creek’s eight
lifts service over 1,600 acres
of beautiful terrain and, with
an average of 400 natural
inches, as usual we have the
most snow in Colorado.
wolfcreekski.com
970-264-5649
1-800-SKI-WOLF
Last year – chalet upgrades,
new rental gear, e-commerce
website, heated snow coach
ride and dinner tours, new
snow cat, more snow guns.
This year – we’ve cooked
up new features for all you
park rats out there. We took
our Battleship to the chop
shop and came out with an
urban down box, a flat down
box, and a teepee. We’ve
added even more snow guns
and new automation to our
snowmaking system, and
new all-day classes for kids
RED RIVER SKI AREA
at the Youth Ski Center. Our
new e-commerce website is
still the hot ticket: print out
the barcode and give it to
the ski techs to scan and get
you geared up. Or check out
the 24-hour ticket kiosks.
Ski and snowboard programs
are available for kids and
adults. After riding, there’s
tubing, evening rail jams
and torchlight parades.
For events online:
redriverskiarea.com
575-754-2233
ENCHANTED FOREST XC
enchantedforestxc.com
800-966-9381 575-754-6112
21
22
A top family-friendly resort,
Purgatory at Durango
Mountain has 91 trails,
five terrain parks and more
than 1,360 skiable acres.
With 10 chairlifts and rarely
any lines, it’s simple to zip
around the mountain and
enjoy the spectacular scenery
of the San Juan Mountains.
Dog sledding, snow tubing,
Nordic skiing, snowshoeing,
horse-drawn sleigh rides,
snowbiking, backcountry
skiing, snowmobiling and
more. This year, Purgatory’s
Legends Lift 8 has been
replaced with a new highspeed
detachable quad,
almost a mile in length and
covering about 1,500 vertical
PHOTO: COURTESY DMR
PURGATORY at
DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT
feet, transporting skiers to
Purgatory’s summit in less
than five minutes. And two
brand new trails provide
speedy access. The
Purgatory - Sipapu - Pajarito
- Arizona Snowbowl
collective is investing $10
million in improvements
this year, including three
new quads, more trails,
and more and better
snowmaking. Power Pass
season passes provide
unlimited access to all four
resorts with a combined
3,088 acres, 28 lifts,
over 200 trails and 13
terrain parks.
skipurg.com
800-525-0892
Sipapu Ski Resort is building
its first new quad chairlift this
summer, the third new lift in
less than five years. The new
quad serves popular beginner
and intermediate trails,
giving beginners an easier
way to practice their skills
before progressing to more
advanced terrain. A new
trail will be added directly
under the lift, and mountain
crews will also complete the
much-anticipated Howdy
Extension, adding nearly five
acres of skiable terrain. New
snowmaking infrastructure
is being added for Sipapu’s
staple “first to open, last
to close” trails, including a
new snow gun and a second
SIPAPU SKI RESORT
booster pump at Midway,
allowing the mountain team
to cover its slopes with more
snow in less time. Also this
year, Pajarito Mountain of
Los Alamos, New Mexico,
expanded its water system
and they’re on pace to
collect more water than
ever before, which means
more snow than ever before.
There’s also a new trail on
the west side of the mountain
at Pajarito, providing a
gentle slope for beginners.
For more on both resorts:
sipapunm.com
800-587-2240
skipajarito.com
505 662 5725
SKI APACHE
Boasting over 300 days of
sunshine each year,
Mescalero, New Mexico’s
Ski Apache – the country’s
southernmost ski resort –
offers the best warm-weather
powder skiing in the
world with snowmaking on
33% of the mountain. The
slopes offer a mix of wide
beginner slopes, tough bump
runs, a huge bowl, nice
cruising runs and a terrain
park with jumps, tubes and
rails. Ski Apache sprawls out
under the 12,000-plus foot
peak of Sierra Blanca.
The Adventure Center
offers full days of fun activities
for young skiers 4-12;
we have plenty of group
and private family learning
programs. And we offer
Sisters on Snow for women,
focusing on a supportive and
relaxed learning experience.
Or you can kick it on a
trikke or rip down the
tubing hill. You can even
take a break and hit the slot
machines slopeside at The
Inn of The Mountain Gods.
For more about ski package
deals, the mountain,
and events online:
skiapache.com
575-464-3600
calling all
THRILL
SEEKERS
(and deal seekers, too)
DEEP FREEZE
weekDAY package
SUN-THURS
November 29-March 3
$529 *
RATE CODE: DPFRZWD
BOOK TODAY WITH
CAPITAN
$639 *
APACHE BOWL
$1699 *
weekEND package
FRI & SAT OR SAT & SUN
November 29-February 28
BOOK TODAY WITH
RATE CODE: CAPWE
3-DAY package FOR 4
THURS-SAT OR SAT-MON
November 29-February 29
BOOK TODAY WITH
RATE CODE: APCBWL
To book your stay today
call 1-800-545-9011.
See website for
restrictions and details.
Ski Apache logo lockup positive read with stroke on dark background.
1-800-545-9011 | Mescalero, NM near Ruidoso
23
urgent medical care
Lesa Fraker, MD PhD FACEP
Owner/Medical Director
Board Certifi ed Emergency Medicine Physician
care you can count on
No appointment necessary
7 days a week
Local
Appreciation
Days
2015-2016
$43 Adults
$26 Seniors
$24 Children
November
11, 18, 30
December
2,9
January
10, 27
February
7, 24
March
2, 27, 30
April
3
Wolf Creek Ski Area
www.wolfcreekski.com
1-800-SKI-WOLF
Powder
Perfect
All ages welcome
Care for most illnesses & injuries
Colds and coughs
Sprains and broken bones
X-rays, prescription medications
& lab tests on site
Oxygen & IV Therapies
for Altitude Sickness
ORGANIC
SUPERFOODS
SERVED BY THE BOTTLE
Most insurances accepted
including Medicare,
Blue Cross Blue Shield,
Aetna, & Humana
red river
200A Pioneer Road
575.754.1773
angel fire
FA-1 Ski Patrol Building
575.377.1805
The ONLY certified
Urgent Care Clinics
in the Enchanted Circle
ultimed.com
rawtaos.com
rawtaos@gmail.com
575 741 0259
818 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos
Juice
Cleanses
Nutmylks
Wheatgrass
Smoothies
Teas
24
Alpine Lodges
FIRESIDE INN & CABINS
Modern, deluxe one and two bedroom fully-equipped
cabins with room to roam
on ten acres along the San
Juan River. Located on the
east side of Pagosa, close
to Hot Springs, toward Wolf
Creek Ski Area and national
forest X-country ski trails.
Private river access and fishing (catch and release) on
our property. Individual living area with gas fireplace,
bedroom/s, kitchen, bathroom. Covered porches with
grills and a Hot Tub! Open year-round.
888.264.9204 970.264.9204
1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, CO
www.firesidecabins.com
EL PUEBLO LODGE
Come stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything!
Southwest charm with early Taos
architecture. Complimentary wifi
and HBO. Heated, seasonal pool,
year-round hot tub. Continental
breakfast each morning, fresh
baked cookies each afternoon.
Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18
miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain
Casino two miles north. See our website for specials
and packages.
800.433.9612 575.758.8700
412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM
www.elpueblolodge.com
KACHINA LODGE and
MEETINGS CENTER in Taos
Four blocks from the historic Taos Plaza, shops, galleries
and museums. Full-service hotel.
Includes full hot breakfast,
leisure bar/lounge with pool tables,
video games, and coffee
shop. Southwestern dining. Outdoor
seasonally heated pool, hot
tub, and free high speed internet. Nightly Indian dances
May-October. Near Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable
prices, friendly service staff.
800.522.4462 575.758.2275
www.kachinalodge.com
413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM
TAOS BED & BREAKFAST INNS
Enjoy your Southwestern adventure even more when
you begin and end each day
at one of our 16 Taos Bed
and Breakfast Inns. Exceptional
food, well-appointed
rooms and gifted innkeepers
who know just how to help
you create memories of Taos,
which will keep you coming back for years to come. For
more information and to book online:
www.taosbandbinns.com
25
Name that run
COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT
GAK STONN
M
ost of us stand atop ski runs such
as Niños Heroes (one of the first
few double blacks of the ridge in Taos
Ski Valley) and think to ourselves –
“How do I drop in and not die?” But
there are those few, possibly feeling the
effects of oxygen deprivation, who think
to themselves – “Who were these tiny
heroes, and what made them so rad?”
This article is for the latter group.
Well, oxygen-deprived double
diamond ripper, the Niños Heroes were
a group of six young cadets at the Mexico
Military Academy who were killed
defending the academy from invading
American forces during the Mexican-
American war.
Taos Ski Valley’s founder, Ernie
Blake, was an intelligence officer during
WWII. He apparently had a fascination
with martyrs such as the Niños
Heros that shows in his ski run names.
Stauffenberg, Oster, Treskow, and Fabian
are all named after people who tried to
assassinate Hitler. Hidalgo was named
after Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, another
martyr of the Mexican American
26
war. Winkelreid is Arthur von Winkelreid,
a Swiss martyr from a Hapsburg
conflict. Taos even has a run called
Patton, after General Patton – Ernie
Blake’s general during the war.
Red River Ski Area has a bit of
a theme as well, albeit less violent,
but still explosive. Many of the runs
are throwbacks to the town’s mining
roots. Some are obvious, with names
like Powder Keg, Prospector’s Lane,
Tailings, and Miners Alley. The less
obvious are names of actual mines in
the Red River area – Golden Treasure,
Buffalo, and Purkapile. Linton’s Leap
is named after the owner’s son and the
family that owns the ski area, Linton
Judycki. It is one of the steepest runs
at Red River, and looks as if the world
drops out from the top.
Sipapu Ski Resort developed a Bambi
theme, but it was not planned. Flower
starts out as a gentle green but then
quickly turns into a black diamond, so it
was known as a “little stinker” – a thickly
veiled reference to a scene in Bambi.
Sipapu then named another run Thumper
after a family of rabbits were found
while cutting the run. The classic ski run
name Bambi was used for a gentle green.
The trend was recognized, and keeping
with tradition, Sipapu is opening a new
run for the upcoming season and calling
it Faline.
The Bolander family (Sipapu’s
owners) also has a tradition of naming
runs after family dogs, many of which
are buried near the runs they are named
after as a way to commemorate them.
Sassafras and Razmatazz were both
family Airedales, Candi and Brandy
were St. Bernards, and Howdy was a
Springer Spaniel.
Wolf Creek Ski Area, like Sipapu,
also has a dog theme. The dog chutes –
Zia, Chi, Jiri, Eliott and Max’s, are all
named after Avalanche Dogs that have
served Wolf Creek. Patina was named
after an Airedale, Bernard, and Mastiff
mix that belonged to the Pitcher family
(the Wolf Creek owners), who actually
called her Tina. Rockin’ Robin was
another family dog, a black lab with
huge paws who liked to race the family
COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT
ing Home, Humpty Dumpty, and Heck
No. This is no mistake – the H runs
were named in honor of Roy H. Lebus,
the original developer of the resort.
Minder Binder was originally called
Jaspers, after Jasper Hicks, a ski patrol
director who was killed in a motorcycle
accident in the 70s. Minder Binder was
not actually named after the Catch-22
character, but a bar in Tempe, AZ.
Free Flight stirs up feelings of a
wide open, fast run, devoid of other
skiers. But it is actually named after the
American Jazz Ensemble, who played
at the annual Music From Angel Fire
festival. The story goes that Free Flight
agreed to make a song called Angel Fire,
and Angel Fire agreed to name a run
after them.
So the next time you are about to
drop into a run – and you start to wonder
why on earth anyone would choose
this name for a run – there is probably
more history underfoot than you think.
Gustav Herold is a Colorado-based writer
and skier, who grew up in Taos, NM.
TALE-SPINNING – Continued from page 17
kids up the mountain as they rode the
Treasure lift – and usually beat them.
Wolf Creek, like most ski areas, has
some family-owned references as well.
Pitcher’s gate was named because it was
the favorite route of the original owner,
Kingsberry Pitcher, when he was headed
to the waterfall area. Blueberry Hill is
not actually named for the fruit, but
rather the first name of one of Kingsberry’s
grandchildren.
Angel Fire has a few mining references
as well, seen in trail names like
Nitro, Detonator, Sluice Box (also a run
at Red River), and Prospector. Prospector,
however, was originally called
Tucker Doubt, a reference to a bet made
by Ray Tucker and Bill Burgess. Tucker
was a former GM of Angel Fire Resort.
Burgess is a long-time instructor and NM
ski hall of fame inductee.The bet was on
the length of time it would take for
Tucker to cut the run, creating the
fantastic double entendre, Tucker Doubt.
You also may notice that Angel Fire
has many runs that start with the letter
H, such as Hell’s Bells, Highway, Headbring
certain actions and ideas into the
field of possibility, a model who symbolizes
abstractions in terms of real entities.”
Then there are tales stretched to
cartoonish heights, yarns spun with freewheeling
flair. The tall tale, or “windy,”
provided the hot air that gave rise to
many Wild West folk icons, such as Pecos
Bill, Little Joe the Wrangler, and Billy
the Kid. Gathering round the campfire to
swap stories was an integral part of life on
the range. In Jack Thorp’s 1926 collection,
Tales of the Chuck Wagon, he wrote:
“It had been an old established custom…
that the men working on the roundup
should meet on the first night at the
chuck-wagon – i.e., the grub-wagon. Every
man there was obliged either to tell a
story, sing a song, or do a dance. Anyone
refusing was sure to get a dose of the leggings,
a punishment administered by the
other punchers, several of whom would
grab the offender and stretch him, toes
and face down, across the wagon-tongue,
while another puncher applied the leather
leggings or chaps. Such treatment, you
can be sure, usually elicited a response in
the form of song, story, or dance.”
To be continued
There are no real endings to stories,
so long as new generations of storytellers,
from all walks of life, lend their voices to
what is a mythically rich and historically
broad love letter. We, as humans, are
engaged in a never-ending courtship with
the Great Mystery, a dance that time and
again sparks the invitation: Let me tell you
a story….
John Biscello is the author of the awardwinning
novel Broken Land, A Brooklyn
Tale, and a collection of stories, Freeze Tag.
His new novel Raking the Dust (Zharmae
Press) is primarily set in Taos, where he has
lived for the past 13 years.
27
Time to Dine
TAOS
BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent
Street, Taos. 575-758-5787. A local favorite
with menu selections to satisfy every palate.
Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a
year-round heated patio and outdoor terrace.
Omelettes, eggs Benedict, gourmet French
toast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and
homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials,
chicken or beef burrito and tamales plates.
Vegetarian and vegan friendly. Beer & wine.
Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday
brunch. BentStreetDeli.com
DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2
block N of Taos Plaza in the Historic Taos
Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, casual dining in
a historic setting. Winner of Wine Spectator’s
“Best Of Award Of Excellence” for 27 consecutive
years. Innovative Regional New American
Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients,
specializing in organic vegetables, meats
and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk,
trout. Homemade desserts. Lunch, dinner,
weekend brunch. Reservations recommended.
DocMartinsRestaurant.com
EL GAMAL – Behind Taos Plaza, 112 Doña
Luz. 575-613-0311. Serving conscious vegetarian
Middle Eastern food, made from scratch.
Hummus, falafel, baba ganoush, shakshuka,
labane, dolmas. Daily specials, soups, housemade
pita, desserts. Gluten-free and vegan
options; Turkish coffee and espresso drinks;
beer and wine. Family-friendly: kids’ playroom,
pool table, free wi-fi. Patio seating. Call for
takeout. Like us on Facebook. Open Monday-
28
Wednesday 9-5; Thursday-Saturday
9-9; Sunday 11-3.
FARMHOUSE CAFÉ and
BAKERY – Three miles
north of Taos Plaza at Overland
Ranch. 575-758-LOVE
(5683). Farm-to-table, serving
local organic cuisine. Legendary
grass-fed burger, green chile
chicken stew, daily quiche.
House-made soups, salads and
a variety of vegetarian, vegan,
and gluten-free options.
Incredible assortment of artisan
breads, croissants, tarts, muffins,
cheesecakes, cookies and more. Specialty
coffees and fresh organic grab-and-go items.
Open 8 am-5 pm daily. Sunday Brunch. Ask
about our new dinner hours. For full menu:
FarmhouseCafeAndBakery.com
GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations
in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur,
Taos: 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo
del Pueblo Norte, El Prado: 575-737-0816.
“Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic
Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood,
Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones
a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer,
Wine, Agave Margaritas. Voted “Best Of Taos”
2015: Best Mexican Food, Best Fast Food. Open
10:30 am to 9 pm 7 days a week. Full menu online:
GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com
MIDTOWN MARKET, BISTRO and
LOUNGE – 575-776-1680. 680 Hwy 522,
Arroyo Hondo. Just 15 mins. north of Taos
Plaza on the Enchanted Circle, at northern crossroad
shortcuts to Taos Ski Valley or Rio Grande
hot springs. Lounge open 3 pm-close; Bistro
open for dinner 4-10 pm. Best nachos in Taos,
appetizers, salads, panini sandwiches, Frito pies,
green chile cheeseburgers, deli hot dogs, kids’
menu. Authentic NM red or vegetarian chile.
Friendly neighborhood bar, foosball, three pool
tables. No time to dine? Visit our convenience
market: quick to-go meal options, chips & dips,
package liquors, beer & wine. Menus and more:
MidtownHondo.com
RAW TAOS – “Raw to the People!” 818 C
Paseo Del Pueblo Norte. 575-741-0259. The
best 100% organic, vegan, raw superfoods prepared
with love, fresh each morning. Taste our
cold-pressed juice blends, nutmylks, smoothies,
wheatgrass shots, artisan teas, warm cacao
drinks, hot cider from local apples, and decadent
salads. Shop our selection of essential oils,
health products, and vegan gifts. Get clean
with our individually tailored juice cleanse
packages. Open Mon-Sat 8 am-5 pm. Check
out our social media for events and to like us!
facebook.com/rawtaos rawtaos.com
rawtaos@gmail.com
RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos
Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-758-
1156. A locals’ favorite. Breakfast, lunch and
dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and
American dishes at family-oriented prices. Gluten-free
and vegetarian chiles. Burgers made
with fresh local beef daily. Kid’s menu. 80% of
our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take
out. Open 7 days, 7 am to 8 pm.
TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del
Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. We start each
morning with organic flour and fresh produce
to create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our
reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect setting for
fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience
where the three local cultures relax &
mingle with international travelers. Open daily
11 am. TaosPizzaOutback.com
A LA CART – 625 Paseo del Pueblo Norte.
575-758-7503. A food cart serving affordable
meals inspired by street food from around
the world. Garden patio or express takeout at
our drive-through window. Moroccan: grilled
beef, red peppers and onions served on a flat
bread pita or over rice with a yogurt mint
sauce. Indian: grilled chicken with a spicy peanut
sauce and a chickpea, tomato, cucumber
salad. Ethiopian: lentil curry with yams, peas
and potatoes on rice with warm pita bread and
salad, served mild, medium or spicy. Americans
classics, soups, stews, salads, sandwiches,
Nathan’s hot dogs. Breakfast and lunch. From
$5.50 to $9.
THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103 East
Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. Stop by The Gorge
and try our juicy burgers, handshaken margaritas,
or fresh oysters – something for everyone!
Enjoy The Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting
on our patio overlooking the Taos Plaza. We
feature TWO happy hours: M-F, 3-5:30 pm and
again from 9-10:30 pm. Check out our new wine
bar and retail shop located below The Gorge:
PARCHT BOTTLESHOP + BITES. 575-758-
1994. A cozy place to discover unique wines +
quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese
& charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Come
in and explore the things that excite us while
you taste + shop + unwind. Visit us online at
TheGorgeBarAndGrill.com and Parcht.com
RED RIVER
BRETT’S BISTRO – At Lifts West, 201 W.
Main Street in Red River. 575-754-9959.
Serving the best steaks, seafood and Rocky
Mountain trout for over 25 years. Daily specials,
kids’ menu. Catering available. Cold Beer and
Fine Wines. Like us on Facebook. Open daily 11
am–9 pm. BrettsBistro.com
SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King.
575-754-2971. Same great food, same great
service. Celebrating our 42nd year. Steaks,
salads, excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas!
Specials include shrimp fajitas and quesadillas.
Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome.
Call for to-go orders. Open nightly 5 pm.
ANGEL FIRE
ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the
second floor of the Mountain View Mall
(next to the Lowe’s Valley Market). 575-377-
2774. We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas,
calzones, Paninis and salads. All in a fun,
relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options are
available. We also offer a wide selection of handcrafted
beers and fine wines. Dine in or take out.
Open Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour.
AngelFiredPizza.com
LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second
floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-
377-4201. A great place for the whole family.
Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers,
sandwiches, salads and more. Great selection
of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens!
Open daily 4-9 pm.
THE LIFT – Located in the lobby of The
Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234.
Serving Starbucks specialty coffees and freshly
baked goods daily. The Lift dishes up delicious
breakfasts and lunches, including homemade
breakfast burritos (a local favorite), breakfast
sandwiches, wraps, fresh salads and homemade
dressings. Beer and wine also available. Open
daily 7 am-4 pm, with extended hours during
peak periods.
ELEMENTS at THE COUNTRY CLUB –
575-377-3055. Enjoy unobstructed Southern
Rocky Mountain views while your taste buds
delight in world class cuisine. Featuring a full
bar, an award winning wine list, private dining
rooms and group event spaces. Located on the
upper level of the Angel Fire Country Club and
open to the public year-round. Dining room is
open Tuesday-Saturday 5–9 pm. Bar and lounge
open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm-close. Extended
hours during peak periods.
H2 UPTOWN – 48 North Angel Fire Road.
575-377-1200. Casual mountain style dining
with an upscale experience, where you’re
treated like family. Serving specially seasoned
charbroiled steaks, wild game, pastas, fine wine,
draft beer and much more. An unforgettable
experience at an affordable price. Open for
lunch and dinner. Reservations for dinner are
suggested. Also visit Café Expresso 575-377-
6669 for hearty breakfast and lunch.
PUT ‘N GRUB – Located at the Village
Center Plaza, 52 N. Angel Fire Road. 575-377-
2335. A family-friendly pub with 20 craft brews
on tap including a draft style root beer. Gourmet
dining in a rustic and casual environment. Best
steaks in town. Open every day during winter ski
season, 5 to 9 pm.
CIMARRON
SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison
in Cimarron. Reservations recommended.
575-376-2664. Landmark on the Santa Fe
Trail, the St. James has been known for its
fine dining since 1872. Menu includes hand
cut steaks, New Mexico favorites, homemade
soups and desserts. Select from a variety of
beers, fine wines or a specially-made cocktail,
all served from the antique bar. New breakfast
menu. Open daily 7 am–9 pm. Visit us online at
ExStJames.com
Cherish the spirit.
Winner of Wine Spectator’s
“Best Of” Award of Excellence
for 28 consecutive years
LODGING, DINING &
LIVE MUSIC NIGHTLY
at The HISTORIC TAOS INN
575.758.2233
taosinn.com
29
2015-2016 winter
Calendar
Dec
4 Sipapu Ski Resort opening day
4-6 Race Camp & Clinic, Red River Ski Area
10 Taos Ski Valley opens full time
11 Enchanted Forest XC Ski opens
11 Red River Ski Area opens full time
11 Angel Fire Resort opens
11-13 International Women’s Ski Day, TSV
11-13 Not Forgotten Appreciation Weekend, Sipapu
12 Bent Street Bonfires, Taos
12 Fun Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
12-13 Cumbres & Toltec Railroad Christmas Train
13-18 College Days, Red River Ski Area
15-16 “A Christmas Story,” Taos Mesa Brewery
18-19 Public Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley
18-19 Alumbra de Questa Christmas Market, Questa
19 Brew Master’s Festival, Taos Ski Valley
19 “The Magic Flute,” Taos Center for The Arts
19 Grand Opening, “Legends Lift,” Purgatory
19 Dummy Gelunde & Parade, Ski Apache
20 Messiah sing-along, St. James Episcopal, Taos
20 Santa on the Mountain, Purgatory Resort
24 Procession of Virgin Mary, Taos Pueblo
24 Torchlight parade and fireworks, all ski areas
25 Christmas Luminaria Tour, Enchanted Forest XC
24-25 Ski with Santa, most ski areas
25 Matachines or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo
26 Terrain Park Competition 1, Ski Apache
31 Torchlight parade and fireworks, all ski areas
Jan
1 Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo
2 Gold Rush Rail Jam, Red River Ski Area
2 Terrain Park Competition 2, Ski Apache
2 Ski Bike Demo Day, Sipapu Ski Resort
2-3 Never Summer Demo Days, Purgatory Resort
3 Apache Star Races begin; ongoing
3-10 College Week, Angel Fire Resort
4-15 College Days, Red River Ski Area
6 Buffalo or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo
7, 14 Locals Days, Ski Apache
9 NMX Ski/Snowboard Competition, AF Resort
9 Ongoing ladies’ ski clinics, Wolf Creek
9 Fun Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
9 Terrain Park Competition 3, Ski Apache
10 Demo Day, Purgatory Resort
10 Locals Benefit Day, Purgatory Resort
10, 27 Locals Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek
15-17 Winter Carnival, Red River Ski Area
15 Snowmobile Hill Climb, Red River Ski Area
15 Ski & Snowboard Challenge, Red River Ski Area
15 Happy Hops Hunt, Purgatory Resort
16 Telemark Festival, Sipapu Ski Resort
16-17 Winterfest, Purgatory Resort
17 MLK Jr. Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
19-24 Not Forgotten Outreach Week, TSV
20 United Way Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
20 Ongoing School program begins; Ski Apache
22-24 USASA SW Freeride Showdown, AF Resort
23 Terrain Park Competition Finals, Ski Apache
23 Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu Resort
23 College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
23 King of the Hill Terrain Competition, Sipapu
23-24 Low O2 Challenge, Enchanted Forest XC
23-25 Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Angel Fire Resort
24, 31 Fun Races, Wolf Creek Ski Area
27 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
27-31 Taos Winter Wine Festival, Taos Ski Valley
30 Transworld TransAm Tour, AF Resort
30 UNM Ultimate Ski Challenge, AF Resort
30 Shred Cancer Benefit, Red River Ski Area
30 Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area
30 Rail Jam, Purgatory Resort
Feb
4-7 50th Anniverary Reunion, Purgatory Resort
4-9 Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River
4, 11 Locals Days, Ski Apache
5-9 Mardi Gras Celebration, Angel Fire Resort
6 World Championship Shovel Races, AF Resort
7, 24 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek
7 Cosmic Series Rio Hondo Rando, Taos Ski Valley
7 USASA Southwest Freeride Series, AF Resort
7 Super Bowl Fun Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
9 Mardi Gras, Purgatory Resort
13-15 I Heart Purg Weekend, Purgatory Resort
14 Heart to Heart Races, Ski Apache
16 Fat Tuesday Costume Day, Ski Apache
17-22 Military Winter Fest, Angel Fire Resort
18-21 IFSA Junior Freeride by JETA, Taos Ski Valley
20 Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu Ski Resort
20 Judy Collins, Taos Community Auditorium
20 Ski Apache Cup and Apache Star Races
20 Telemark Ski Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area
20 Ski Bike Festival, Purgatory Resort
20 Red Ball Express, Purgatory Resort
21 Local Benefits Day, Purgatory Resort
21, 28 College Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area
26 Happy Hops Hunt, Purgatory Resort
27 USASA Rampage Slopestyle, Red River Ski Area
27 Wild Western Cup, Ski Apache
27 K2 Breast Cancer Awareness Day, Taos Ski Valley
27 Just Desserts Eat & Ski, Enchanted Forest XC
27 Hope on the Slopes, Purgatory Resort
28 NM Pine Cup, Angel Fire Resort
Mar
1 Apache Quest Scavenger Hunts, Ski Apache
2, 27, 30 Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek
3 2-Star Taos Freeride Championships, TSV
4-5 4-Star Taos Freeride Championships, TSV
5 Ski Bum Ball, Angel Fire Resort
5 Big Mountain Challenge, Ski Apache
5 NMX Competition, AF Resort
5-6 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu Ski Resort
5, 20 Fun Races, Wolf Creek Ski Area
5, 26 College Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area
7 Springtacular, Purgatory Resort
12 New Belgium Scavenger Hunt, Taos Ski Valley
12 Spring Fling Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
12 13th Annual Cardbox Derby, Sipapu Ski Resort
12 Ernie Blake Birthday Celebration, TSV
12-18 Fiesta del Sol Spring Break, AF Resort
13 Cardboard Derby, Purgatory Resort
13 Pond Skimming & Beach Body Contest, Ski Apache
17 St. Patrick’s Day Celebration, Angel Fire Resort
17 Shamrock Relay, Ski Apache
18 Kids’ Glow Stick Parade, Red River Ski Area
18 Happy Hops Hunt, Purgatory Resort
18-19 Ben Meyers Ridge-A-Thon, Taos Ski Valley
19 12th Annual Pond Skimming Contest, Sipapu
19 Fatty Paddy Mountain Bike Race, AF Resort
20 Locals Benefit Day, Purgatory Resort
20 Demo Day, Purgatory Resort
20 Pond Skim, Red River Ski Area
20 Moonlight Hike and Campfire, Sipapu Resort
26 Spring Brew Masters, Taos Ski Valley
26 Telemark Ski Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area
27 Easter Egg Hunt, Taos Ski Valley
27 Easter Eggstravaganza, Purgatory Resort
Apr
2 Kachina TWIST lap-a-thon, Taos Ski Valley
2 College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
3 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
3 Angels and Demons Party, Purgatory Resort
3 Pond Skimming Championships, TSV
7-10 Taos Shortz Film Festival, Taos Center for the Arts
Info
Angel Fire 800-446-8117
Chama Valley 800-477-0149
Durango 970-247-3500
Eagle Nest 800-494-9117
Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204
Red River 800-348-6444
Ruidoso 877-784-3676
Santa Fe 800-777-2489
South Fork 800-571-0881
Taos County 800-732-8267
Taos Pueblo 575-758-1028
Dates are subject to change. Check with local chambers
for updated calendar information.
30