Equatorial Guinea

Equatorial
Guinea
edition
1
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Kie
Bolo
Guoro
CAMEROON
Centro
Sur
Kié-Ntem
Abia
Temelon
Elonesang
Añisok
Acom Esong
Andoc
Ebongo
Ebebiyín
Tool
GABON
KIÉ-NTEM PROVINCE
0 10km
0
Micomeseng
Mimbamengui
Ncue
Hotel Saturno
San
Carlos
Mfaman
Niefang
Amwang
10 miles
CAMEROON
Afangui
Obuc
Reserva Natural
del Monte Temelón
Nsang
Wele-Nzas
Piedra Bere
Natural
Monument
Ndumensoc
Mengomeyén
Oboronco
Kie-Ossi
border crossing
de facto border
Kie-Ossi
border crossing
Biyabiyan
Etetam-Ngon
Lake
Kye Effak
border crossing
Moyo
de facto
border
Alen Angok
Falls
Ngong
Ngosoc
Nonkieng
Trilith of Mbam
Mbam
Benito (Uoro)
206

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p
Kié-Ntem
Province
Kié-Ntem Province is in the far northeast of mainland Río Muni. This is a land of
wide open spaces, unexplored forest and cross-border trade. Far less hot and wet
than the coastal region, Kié-Ntem is a great place to camp, look for rare wildlife or
perhaps even practise your French.
It shares a northern border with Cameroon, and an eastern border with Gabon
(South Province and Woleu-Ntem Province respectively). Domestically, travelling
south from this province you enter Wele-Nzas, and heading west you reach Centro
Sur Province.
The capital city is Ebebiyín, located in the very northeast of the province, sitting
on the border of Equatorial Guinea, Gabon and Cameroon. Other important
settlements in the province include Micomeseng and Ncue.
Official government estimates put the population at around a quarter of a
million, with Ebebiyín being the largest settlement, although accurate population
figures for the town are impossible to find. The Reserva Natural del Monte Temelón
(page 201) and the Piedra Bere Natural Monument (pages 204–5) both straddle the
border between this province and Wele-Nzas.
Note that there are no tour operators based in Kié-Ntem Province. You are
advised to make arrangements for visiting the area through companies based in
Malabo (page 65) or Bata (page 152) before your arrival.
HISTORY
As with Wele-Nzas, Kié-Ntem has been inhabited for thousands of years but came
very late to the ‘Scramble for Africa’. Similar to its southern neighbour, it is likely
that Pygmy groups had the space to themselves for almost 15 millennia until the
arrival of Bantu groups from the northwest. The Bissio ethnic group, now resident
in the coastal regions of Río Muni, may have transited through Kié-Ntem in search
of a new home, having been displaced from their homeland in Ebolowa, southern
Cameroon, by other more powerful ethnic groups.
More recently, Kié-Ntem has been the source of some tension between
Equatorial Guinea and its neighbours Cameroon and Gabon. In January 2014
a deal negotiated by the Central African Economic and Monetary Community
(CEMAC) was supposed to come into effect that allowed the free movement
of people and goods across all members’ borders. Both Equatorial Guinea and
Gabon, who have far stronger economies than their other African neighbours,
have blocked the deal for fear of being flooded with immigrants. This has
led to huge border queues at Kie-Ossi in Cameroon. If seeking to cross at
this point, be sure to seek local advice first, or check the status on http://
africabordermonitor.com.
Kié-Ntem Province HISTORY
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GETTING THERE AND AWAY
Domestic access to Kié-Ntem Province is usually achieved by driving in from
the west, using the main road heading out of Niefang. Driving from Bata to
Ebebiyín takes around 6 hours and the road is good. It is also possible to head
north into the province from Mongomo. From Cameroon, you can drive south
from Ambam and enter Equatorial Guinea at Ebebiyín, however, this crossing
is subject to short-notice closures and border officials have a mixed record
for allowing foreigners to cross here, even if your visa is in order. There is no
domestic airport in the province.
EBEBIYÍN AND AROUND
In the far northeastern corner of Río Muni, facing Gabon to the east and Cameroon
to the north, lies Ebebiyín. Compared with other locations in the country, this city
feels big: big avenues, big markets, big population. It stretches 2km along an east–
west axis, and with a large number of urban developments filling this space it is not
thin and dispersed like Evinayong. Reliable population figures are not available,
but it would not be surprising if this was the third largest city in the country
after Bata and Malabo. Buoyed by recent hosting duties during the Africa Cup
of Nations in 2015, and with the opportunities for cross-border trade improved
by the new arterial motorway to the coast, Ebebiyín is sure to grow more in the
coming years.
HISTORY Ebebiyín is very much at the centre of the Fang lands, which stretch
further south than Libreville in modern day Gabon and further north than Yaoundé
in Cameroon. This has been the case for hundreds of years. It is an excellent case
study of the artificial nature of the boundaries that Europeans imposed on Africa
during colonialism. The whole area speaks the Ntumu Fang dialect, helping to
For listings, see page 210
Where to stay and eat
1
2
Nuevo Estadio
de Ebebiyin
EBEBIYÍN
Hotel Inmaculada
Hotel La Mamy
Off map
Hotel Simontere
0 800m
0
800yds
Mongomo (78km)
Shared taxis
south
Central market
Kie-Ossi border crossing
(Cameroon, 10km)
Hotel Simontere (4km),
Micomeseng (85km)
Cathedral
Statue on
roundabout
BANGE
see inset
Melchor Esono
Edjo Provincial
2 hospital
Total
CCEI
1
Supermercado
Champion
Supermercado
Kassav Express
Provincial
government
building
Ayuntamiento
Decorated
ceiba tree Total
Comercial
Santy
PDGE HQ
Colegio
Nasser
Kye Effak
border crossing
(Gabon, 1.5km)
Kassav Express
bus stop
(to & from Bata)
GETESA
SGBGE
Inset
208

explain the modern success of cross-border trade between Gabon, Equatorial
Guinea and Cameroon.
That this town came to be on the border of Spanish Guinea was a great
disappointment to the Spanish colonial authorities. Spain did poorly from
negotiations at the Berlin Conference (1884–85), as more powerful European
nations carved out their spheres of influence on the African continent. Spain was
in the unfortunate position of being sandwiched between German (Cameroon)
and French (Gabon) claims. Río Muni ended up only 26,000km 2 in size, whereas
Spain was aiming for 180,000km 2 . This situation was finalised by the Treaty of Paris
in 1900, which set the border where it remains today. Despite this agreement, the
boundaries in this area are a little confusing. The eastern border between Equatorial
Guinea and Gabon is officially a straight line running south from Ebebiyín (as
shown on most maps and agreed at the Treaty of Paris in 1900). However, in reality,
the de facto border seems to be treated as the river Kié, which gives Equatorial
Guinea an extra 3km lump of territory in its northeastern corner.
During the era of President Macías, Ebebiyín became a transit point for citizens
fleeing to other countries (page 28). While a terrible tragedy at the time, this
diaspora created strong links between the three nations, and has served to fuel
cross-border trade.
GETTING THERE, AWAY AND AROUND Ebebiyín is well connected domestically.
Both shared taxis and Kassav Express buses (m 222 721 516) ply the route from
Bata via Niefang, which takes around 4 hours and costs 3,500CFA. There are also
shared taxis linking Ebebiyín and Mongomo for 2,000CFA per seat. It is very
difficult to find a vehicle to Ebebiyín from Micomeseng, as by this point in the
journey they are all full.
There are the usual shared taxis plying the main routes across town, for 500CFA
per trip. Upon arrival if you get dropped off at the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall; by
the decorated ceiba tree) in the centre of town, you should be able to walk to most
locations.
Border crossings Ebebiyín is situated on a tri-border area with Cameroon and
Gabon. There is a bridge over the river Kié (or Kye) which acts as the de facto
border between Equatorial Guinea and Gabon. Crossing this bridge takes you to
the small settlement of Kye Effak or the larger town of Bitam in Gabon.
There is also a bridge to the north of Ebebiyín which takes you to Kie-Ossi in
Cameroon.
The border between Cameroon and Gabon in this area is delineated by the river
Ntem. There is a bridge at Meyo-Kye Effak.
These borders are known to close at short notice and Equatoguinean immigration
officials have been recorded as refusing entry to foreign nationals at these points
(even US citizens who do not require visas). If refused entry from Cameroon, your
next available option on the west coast is crossing from Campo (Cameroon) to Río
Campo (Equatorial Guinea). If refused entry from Gabon, try crossing from Oyem
to Mongomo further south, which is a much busier crossing. Border officials are
a bit more lenient about letting you out of the country (as opposed to in) at these
points, although this is still not guaranteed.
A WHERE TO STAY AND EAT Map, page 208.
The Hotel Inmaculada bar is well stocked and they play music at weekends. For
a cheap drink and some street food, head to the junction around Supermercado
Kié-Ntem Province EBEBIYÍN AND AROUND
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Champion. There are plenty of shacks here selling cheap beer and blasting out
music all night.
A Hotel Inmaculada (23 rooms, 16 suites
& 4 presidential suites) Calle San Pedro; m 222
051 148. The best hotel in town, situated in the
southwest of the city. Single rooms here are good
value & include all new fittings such as AC, twin
beds, a big bath & shower & a fridge. There is a
reasonably good buffet breakfast, & also a full
menu for lunch & dinner (( 07.00–23.00 daily;
$$). Pleasant bar area & pool. The suites include a
large living room area & king-size beds. Staff speak
Spanish, French & even some English. $$$
A Hotel Simontere (20 rooms) On the
western outskirts of town as you enter from
Niefang & Micomeseng. This large compound has
a restaurant & disco which is popular at w/ends.
Rooms have AC & a double bed, but overall are
not as nice as the more central Hotel Inmaculada.
$$–$$$
A Hotel La Mamy (24 rooms) m 222 609
481; e pperladinoss@yahoo.fr. A simple hotel with
bare rooms that have a bed, mosquito net & fan.
Friendly hosts & great value if you can do without
AC. $
SHOPPING If you are looking for Fang crafts, there are a variety for sale in the
village of Afangui Obuc (page 211).
? Central market South of town; ( 07.00–
17.00 daily. This huge covered market sells
everything.
? Comercial Santy ( 09.00–13.00 & 16.00–
19.00 Mon–Fri, 09.00–13.00 Sat. The largest
supermarket in town, located very centrally. A
good range of fresh produce.
? Supermercado Champion At the crossroads
between the southern road to Mongomo & the
eastern road to Gabon; ( 09.00–13.00 & 16.00–
19.00 Mon–Fri. This supermarket has a decent
selection of goods, including a refrigerated section.
? Supermercado Kassav Express m 222 509
393; ( 08.00–18.00 Mon–Sat. Sells only nonperishable
items & refrigerated drinks.
OTHER PRACTICALITIES Upon arrival, be sure to register at the Ayuntamiento
(Town Hall), which is in the centre of town with the decorated ceiba tree outside.
The bemused officials are generally friendly, if a bit slow. Give them a copy of your
Tourism Permit.
There are two Total petrol stations in town, one central and one to the south. If
you need phone credit or a SIM card, head for GETESA.
Banks
Z BANGE Bank ( 07.00–14.30 Mon–Fri,
09.00–13.30 Sat; e info@egbange.com. Has
no ATM.
Z CCEI Bank Av General Obiang Nguema, Apdo
33; % 333 072 196, 333 072 198; ( 08.00–14.30
Mon–Fri, 10.00–13.00 Sat. This massive golden
structure is hard to miss. Has an ATM but no Visa
symbol.
Z SGBGE Bank Av Principal; % 333 262 020;
( 08.00–14.00 Mon–Fri. Has an ATM which
accepts Visa.
Healthcare
H Provincial Hospital Calle San Pedro; % 333
084 755; ( 24hrs. Near the Hotel Inmaculada.
Not an international-standard facility though, so
in emergencies you will need to head to Bata or
Malabo.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO The town square is very picturesque, with a ceiba tree
decorated in the colours of the ruling PDGE party and the colonial Ayuntamiento
building. The central market is worth visiting, but you will need to get a shared
taxi here from the centre. It is bustling and sells all manner of random goods, from
Chinese imports to live animals.
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At the end of Avenida Cosme Nsue Ondo in the southern part of town you will
find a large statue on the roundabout of a lady in traditional attire picking bananas.
Opposite here there is a tall column with a statue of Melchor Esono Edjo at the
base, holding an encyclopedia. He was born and grew up locally, and is a respected
economist and a former minister of finance and budgets. Ebebiyín also has a very
large and new Spanish-built cathedral.
The newly refurbished stadium, Nuevo Estadio de Ebebiyín, played host to
some of the group stage matches in the Africa Cup of Nations football tournament
in 2015, and also the Equatorial Guinean Football Federation Women’s league final
in 2014. It has a capacity of 8,000 spectators.
AROUND EBEBIYÍN There are a number of potential tourist sites tucked away
sites only a few kilometres from Ebebiyín, which make for good day hikes or short
drives. The countryside in this part of the nation rarely sees visitors, but you should
find a curious but warm welcome wherever you choose to wander. Given the lush
scenery around Ebebiyín, the majority of sites listed below are outdoor attractions.
Twenty kilometres west of Ebebiyín is the small village of Biyabiyan, right up
on the northern border with Cameroon. There is a small museum of Fang art here
run by local artists. Ask around and one of the residents will open it up and show
you around.
Almost equidistant between Micomeseng and Ebebiyín is the small village of
Afangui Obuc. They have a crafts house with traditional Fang goods for sale. This
area is famous from colonial times as a base for Basque big-game hunting legend
Basilio Olaechea Orruño, who sadly spent much of the 1950s shooting all the
gorillas in the area and the odd elephant. This hunter was legendary as a crack shot
with a rifle, able to hit a stone thrown in the air from more than 50m.
The Alen Angok Falls on the Kié River mark the de facto border between Gabon
and Equatorial Guinea in this area. The settlement here is marked on some maps as
‘Adyap (Angoc)’ although this is technically a village a few kilometres to the north.
Alen Angok is also home to a colonial school from 1936, a dispensary and medical
centre from 1937, and a military base built by the Spanish during World War II.
To the southwest of Ebebiyín is the picturesque Etetam-Ngon Lake. To get
here, trek to the village of Bifet (Efac), and you will find it on the route to nearby
Moyo village.
Right on the border of Kié-Ntem and Wele-Nzas provinces, around 17km north
of Mongomo on the border road, is the mysterious stone structure Trilith of
Mbam (Esaguong), featuring two upright columns of stone with a third balanced
horizontally between them. The location is sometimes also referred to as El Trilito
de Mibang locally. These are not the only triliths in the area and some locals talked
about another set near the village of Mosom Esandon, around 5km from Ebebiyín.
Until this area is more thoroughly surveyed by archaeologists (which is unlikely to
occur very soon) these structures will remain an intriguing mystery.
MICOMESENG
Halfway between Bata and Ebebiyín is Micomeseng, a small transit town with one
main road, a market, a military radar dish and an inexplicable amount of building
work happening on its periphery. Little more than a travellers’ rest stop to most
people, Micomeseng is located in the heart of coffee and cocoa country. It is still
home to a colonial-era leprosy treatment centre, which is maintained with the
help of Catholic Mission volunteers and Cuban medical experts, which hint at
Kié-Ntem Province MICOMESENG
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211

A
Equatorial Guinea’s post-colonial foreign relations (page 41). There is also a large
colonial church adjoining the hospital, the Iglesia Nuestra Senhora.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
A Hotel Fidel (12 rooms) On a grass bank
at the western entrance to town; m 551 445
202. This building does a good job of hiding from
potential clients, & there is only a small LCD sign
indicating that it is a hotel. Inside you can see the
Chinese contractors have been at work as there are
gold chandeliers & plastic fittings aplenty. Single
rooms are clean, new & spacious. They include TV,
AC, a double bed & combined bath & shower. This
is good value for money in these parts. There are
also suites that are much more expensive & have
a larger bedroom & a living room with seating for
OTHER PRACTICALITIES
I Clinica Wuhan On the junction of the main
road & the hospital road; ( 08.00–18.00 Mon–
Sat. A Chinese-run pharmacy. Useful as they do not
take a break for lunch.
T GETESA Over the road from the police station
in the centre of town. Sell SIM cards & phone credit.
H Micomeseng Hospital Northeast of town
near the church; ( 24hrs. The hospital is run
5. The hotel has a fairly upmarket restaurant ($$)
but the menu is limited & the kitchen is not always
open. $–$$
X Restaurante Tatiana ( noon–21.30
Mon–Sat, 14.00–20.00 Sun. Situated on the side
road leading to the hospital, the Tatiana offers
cheap local cuisine. The chicken is good (when they
have it). $
V Bar Abaceria Marisa ( 10.00–23.30 Mon–
Sat. In the centre of town near the taxi stop. This
bar has cold beers, warm spirits & not much else.
down & quite crowded, as this town is a hub for
the treatment of leprosy.
Police station On the main road; m 666 500
076. This is seemingly the only police station in
the country with a dedicated phone number on
display. Be sure to register here upon arrival by
dropping off a copy of your Tourism Permit.
WHAT TO SEE Th irty kilometres west of Micomeseng is the town of Ncue. Here
you will find a large colonial church, a GE petrol station and the Hotel Saturno (15
rooms; $$).
From Micomeseng there is a road running southeast to the town of Nsang,
which passes through the Reserva Natural del Monte Temelón (pages 200–1).
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