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Eatdrink #58 March/April 2016

Local Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford and Southwestern Ontario Since 2007

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario Since 2007<br />

№ 57 58 • January/February <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Serving eatdrinkFREE<br />

London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario Since 2007<br />

<strong>March</strong> 19 & 20<br />

FAMILY<br />

First at The<br />

Pristine<br />

Olive Tasting<br />

Bar<br />

FEATURING<br />

Le Rendez-Vous<br />

Dining & Cocktails<br />

Luxe Living in London<br />

Per La Famiglia<br />

A New Cookbook by Emily Richards<br />

T.O. Culinary Hotspots<br />

A Toronto Road Trip<br />

New Programs in Culinary Education at the<br />

London Training Centre<br />

ALSO: Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery | Sophisticated Drinking | Atlanta: A Taste of the South


A delicious new season<br />

springs to life<br />

in STRATFORD<br />

Stratford salutes spring with the annual Swan Parade celebrations.<br />

Experience Canada’s sweet tastes on the Savour Stratford Maple<br />

Trail and visit McCully’s Hill Farm for sugar bush tours and pancake<br />

brunches on <strong>March</strong> weekends. Treat yourself to spring foraging<br />

adventures or yummy CheeseWeek menus. Come savour spring’s<br />

flavours in Stratford.<br />

MARCH<br />

3-6 Stratford Garden Festival, Rotary Complex<br />

5-6 McCully’s Hill Farm Maple Festival (every weekend)<br />

10 St. Paddy’s Celtic Celebration – Mystic Fyre, Revival House<br />

24 Amelia Curan and Jerry Nash, Revival House<br />

APRIL<br />

1-3 Weekend Cooking Classes, Rundles (every weekend)<br />

2 Craft Beer and Chocolate, The Parlour<br />

2-3 Swan Parade Weekend Celebrations<br />

4-10 CheeseWeek, Local restaurants<br />

6 CheeseFest DairyXPO, Rotary Complex<br />

16,23,30 Early Spring Foraging, Puck’s Plenty<br />

visitstratford.ca @StratfordON StratfordON


SPRING EVENT S A T T H E IDLE WYL D<br />

Easter Brunch & Dinner Buffet<br />

Sunday, <strong>March</strong> 27<br />

11am - 2pm - $34.95 per person.<br />

5pm - 8pm - $38.95 per person<br />

Children’s Easter Egg Hunt<br />

Sunday, <strong>March</strong> 27 | 9:00 am - 10:00am<br />

Join us for an Easter Egg Hunt in the Idlewyld<br />

Courtyard. For Children 10 years of age and<br />

younger. Happy Hunting!<br />

$65<br />

per person<br />

Murder By The Book<br />

Friday, <strong>April</strong> 22 | 7:00pm - 10:00pm | $65.00 inclusive<br />

A book publishing house holds an awards night for its authors.<br />

Is the body on the floor fiction or non-fiction?<br />

Dress theme – favorite book character or Author, secretary,<br />

Italian Chef, Captain or Alien.<br />

Mother’s Day Brunch & Dinner Buffet<br />

Sunday, May 8<br />

11:00am - 2:00pm - $34.95 per person.<br />

5:00pm - 8:00pm - $38.95 per person<br />

$75<br />

per person<br />

Denise Pelley & Friends<br />

Friday, May 27 | 7pm - 10pm | $75.00 per person inclusive<br />

Enjoy a fantastic dinner prepared by Chef Trevor Stephens<br />

while listening to the beautiful sounds of live Jazz performed<br />

by vocalist Denise Pelly and Friends. Reserve you table today!<br />

$40<br />

per person<br />

+tax & gratuity<br />

Our Famous Saturday Afternoon Tea<br />

<strong>March</strong> 19, <strong>April</strong> 16, May 21 & June 18 | 2:00 - 4:00pm<br />

Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea, featuring an assortment of<br />

loose leaf teas, homemade scones, Devon cream and preserves,<br />

cucumber sandwiches, savory mini quiches, and mouthwatering<br />

treats and sweets!<br />

36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8 | ph 519.432.5554<br />

www.idlewyldinn.com |<br />

IdlewyldInnAndSpa


Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario<br />

•<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

A Classic Celebration Destination<br />

Special for the<br />

Holidays<br />

Our Annual<br />

Epicurean<br />

Gift Guide<br />

& More!<br />

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music<br />

ALSO:<br />

FREE<br />

FEATURING<br />

Chocolate Barr’s<br />

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

Old East Village<br />

Food for Thought<br />

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better<br />

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario<br />

•<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

THE HOLIDAY I SUE<br />

On The Thames<br />

A Classic Celebration Destination<br />

Special for the<br />

Holidays<br />

Our Annual<br />

Epicurean<br />

Gift Guide<br />

& More!<br />

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music<br />

ALSO:<br />

FREE<br />

FEATURING<br />

Chocolate Barr’s<br />

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

Old East Village<br />

Food for Thought<br />

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better<br />

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy<br />

eatdrink<br />

<br />

inc.<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

Think Global.<br />

Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor<br />

Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Dave Hammond,<br />

Gary Killops, Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery,<br />

Tracy Turlin, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden,<br />

Rick Young<br />

Photographer Steve Grimes<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

© <strong>2016</strong> eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink<br />

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues<br />

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink<br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

eatdrink<br />

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE<br />

Tableside at<br />

Michael’s<br />

On The Thames<br />

eatdrink<br />

Tableside at<br />

Michael’s<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Read every issue online,<br />

no matter which device you prefer.<br />

Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues<br />

Plus!<br />

New Stories Only Online<br />

Plus!<br />

OUR COVER<br />

Proprietors of The Pristine<br />

Olive Tasting Bar, Clara and<br />

Jamie Griffiths, with son Reid<br />

and daughter Ally, in their north<br />

London store. Story on page 16.<br />

Photo by Steve Grimes<br />

(grimesphoto.com)<br />

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients<br />

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer<br />

serving London & Area with different and unique ideas<br />

www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 5<br />

notes from the publisher<br />

<strong>March</strong> Forth!<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

I<br />

don’t want to be on record as criticizing a poet for the ages, but<br />

can any Canadian agree with T. S. Eliot’s oft-quoted line “<strong>April</strong><br />

is the cruellest month” and really mean it? For me, February<br />

is like “hump day” in a dreary work<br />

week. Even after one of the mildest winters<br />

in memory, and knowing that the coldest<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

weather is not guaranteed to be behind us,<br />

I greet the arrival of <strong>March</strong> with glee and<br />

herald <strong>April</strong> as the arrival of spring. The days<br />

are longer and it’s only going to get better.<br />

This issue brings plenty of strong seasonal<br />

advice. You will see in the BUZZ column<br />

that there are myriad options for enjoyment.<br />

From visiting the sugar bush during the<br />

maple syrup harvest, to visiting the most<br />

sophisticated restaurants (which might be<br />

using that same maple syrup somewhere in<br />

the menu!), there is plenty for everyone.<br />

Gardeners, if you don’t have your seeds<br />

in hand yet, there is still time, but the time is<br />

now! Allan & Rick have some great tips in our<br />

In the Garden column. We have an enticing<br />

Road Trip suggestion, with culinary hotspots<br />

in Toronto on Bryan Lavery’s agenda. Our<br />

music columns are also bursting with news of<br />

upcoming events that are sure to move you,<br />

body and soul. This is also an ideal time to try<br />

a new restaurant; these are not usually the<br />

busiest months of the year, so you’ll get the<br />

best service possible and can linger over<br />

dessert at your leisure. Enjoy!<br />

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com


contents ISSUE № 58<br />

MARCH/APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />

8<br />

11<br />

16<br />

20<br />

26<br />

56<br />

62<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

8 Luxe Life in London: Le Rendez-Vous Dining & Cocktails<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

CULINARY EDUCATION<br />

11 New Food Skill Programs at the London Training Centre<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

CULINARY RETAIL<br />

16 Family First at The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar, in London<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

ROAD TRIPS<br />

20 Getaway to Toronto: T.O. Culinary Hotspots<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

TRAVEL<br />

26 A Taste of Southern Hospitality in Atlanta, Georgia<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

NEW & NOTABLE<br />

30 The BUZZ<br />

IN THE GARDEN<br />

40 Dreams in a Packet!<br />

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN<br />

WINE<br />

42 Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

44 To Your Health — Literally<br />

By THE MALT MONK<br />

THEATRE<br />

47 On the Boards: Manuel<br />

By RICK YOUNG<br />

THE CLASSICAL BEAT<br />

52 Spring Strings<br />

By NICOLE LAIDLER<br />

VARIOUS MUSICAL NOTES<br />

54 Jam Nights and Upcoming Concerts<br />

By RICK YOUNG<br />

BOOKS<br />

56 Sophisticated Drinking<br />

by Kerstin Ehmer & Beate Hinderman<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

COOKBOOKS<br />

58 Per La Famiglia by Emily Richards<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

THE LIGHTER SIDE<br />

62 Lessons in Juvenile Gastronomy<br />

By DARIN COOK<br />

42<br />

44<br />

58


<strong>March</strong> 19 & 20<br />

Sat 9-5 & Sun 10-4<br />

London Convention Centre<br />

The most awesome way to kick-start your Spring!<br />

More than 150 unique vendors,<br />

demonstrations, entertainment,<br />

sampling and FUN!<br />

get your tickets online<br />

www.womenslifestyle.ca<br />

ADVANCED<br />

$10<br />

AT THE DOOR<br />

$12


8 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

restaurants<br />

The Luxe Life in London<br />

Le Rendez-Vous Dining and Cocktails<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Every serious restaurant is an<br />

expression of taste on the part<br />

of its chef and owners, a balance<br />

of principles and concessions in<br />

an effort to offer a brief but memorable<br />

experience to the patron.<br />

The collection of stylish restaurants around<br />

the Covent Garden Market and Budweiser<br />

Gardens continues to expand with the<br />

opening of Le Rendez-Vous, and the more<br />

understated London Wine Bar which opened<br />

last fall beside Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium.<br />

Both businesses were initially held up by<br />

delays in building inspection during last<br />

year’s strike by the city’s inside workers.<br />

Le Rendez-Vous (briefly The Dirty Martini<br />

— turns out to be a ubiquitous name with<br />

possible legal ramifications) is a lush<br />

supper club style restaurant with innovative<br />

modernist cuisine. It is located in the former<br />

bank building that was more recently the<br />

home of the micro-distillery Black Fly<br />

Beverage Co., and the Villa Resto-Lounge.<br />

It is almost impossible to imagine a more<br />

urbane and sexy place to dine than the Le<br />

Rendez-Vous in London. We love the reelto-reel<br />

sound system and the sultry jazz/<br />

rock stylings. In<br />

the evening the<br />

restaurant has a<br />

vibrant energy<br />

and attracts a<br />

social scene<br />

centered on the<br />

long granite bar.<br />

The lighting is<br />

sophisticated,<br />

and wherever<br />

you are seated<br />

the views are<br />

unobstructed.<br />

The art deco<br />

premises at the<br />

corner of Talbot<br />

and Dundas have been refurbished and decorated<br />

with dark wood bookshelves, Venetianstyle<br />

glass chandeliers and quilted white<br />

faux-leather banquette seating and matching<br />

ultra-modern chairs with chrome bases.<br />

The long bar along the east wall with<br />

overhead mirrors is a dominant feature. The<br />

tapas/snack menu and the large windows<br />

that open to the street cater to the later-night<br />

target audience spilling out of Budweiser<br />

Gardens events. The windows provide<br />

visibility from inside and out.<br />

The small plates/tapas offerings guarantee<br />

plenty of choices for the after-hours crowd. A<br />

large quenelle of beef tartare with sherry gel,<br />

brik pastry crackers, egg yolk, watercress, and<br />

smoked marrow was a success. We also loved<br />

the cod cakes and the confit of duck.<br />

The formerly tiny kitchen has been extended<br />

and the cooking equipment upgraded with six<br />

burners, a convection oven, salamander, grill,<br />

heat lamps and a defined pass.<br />

Chef Ashton Gillespie is a Fanshawe<br />

alumnus with a long stint at The Only on<br />

King and shorter stretches at North Moore<br />

Catering, and the now defunct Splendido in<br />

Toronto. Time spent at Yours Truly in Toronto


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 9<br />

Chef Ashton Gillespie (left) fuses unexpected ingredients<br />

into his cooking. Professional and friendly servers (above)<br />

wear crisp white shirts, red ties and long black aprons.<br />

gave Gillespie an insight into the<br />

Korean and Chinese culinary canon,<br />

evident when he fuses unexpected<br />

ingredients into his cooking.<br />

On our first visit we were greeted<br />

warmly and professionally by both<br />

the owner Ridvan Dani and the front<br />

of house manager Luca Monti. The women sipping<br />

cocktails at the bar told us that the personable Monti<br />

is a big draw. Many of you may remember Monti’s<br />

hospitality from his years at the London Ale House.<br />

He is also a local actor and Artistic Producer of<br />

Iglesia Productions Theatre Company.<br />

The service here is intelligent and friendly with<br />

waiters wearing crisp white shirts, red ties and long<br />

black aprons. The livery matches the ambience —


10 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

it’s clean, professional and sophisticated.<br />

Le Rendez-Vous features an inventive menu whose<br />

mantra is local, farm to table and organic. The restaurant<br />

management offers many incentives to get you through<br />

the door. We loved the $35.00 prix fixe menu.<br />

We started with the blood orange and beet mousse<br />

with beet meringue, compressed blood orange and<br />

mounds of finely ground nuts, which the menu referred<br />

to as nut soil. The plate was a very modernist offering<br />

and far from the typical and ubiquitous beet salad<br />

paired with goat cheese that has replaced the tomato<br />

and mozzarella salad in popularity. Adding beetroot<br />

juice to the meringues makes them fluorescently pink<br />

and tends towards the bijou.<br />

The Church Key: gin, mint, lime<br />

Octopus, immaculately grilled, was tender with a<br />

juice, soda & cucumber<br />

good bite, thanks to Chef’s deft touch. It was served<br />

with candied fennel, watercress purée,<br />

roasted squash and blood orange<br />

vinaigrette and a purple potato. The mix<br />

of colours made the dish pop and was<br />

visually stunning.<br />

The strip loin was perfectly cooked,<br />

flavourful, tender, presented in an eyecatching<br />

manner. The grilled (cellared)<br />

leeks were robust and a nice counterpoint<br />

to the steak, complementing the meat<br />

Blood Orange & Beet Mousse with Beet Meringue<br />

nicely. All of the flavours harmonized<br />

well together. Butter poached radishes<br />

were a creative accompaniment, and the sweet potato<br />

was a welcome change from the standard offering.<br />

On the current menu there is an excellent rib-eye and<br />

delicious arctic char.<br />

In the past year the city’s cocktail scene, whose<br />

revival has lagged behind those of Toronto and<br />

Stratford, has blossomed. The bar does not take a back<br />

seat to the kitchen. The cocktail menu pays homage to<br />

the martini. All the signature martinis are named after<br />

downtown London restaurants: Abruzzi, Che Resto Bar,<br />

Black Trumpet, Blu Duby, The Church Key, La Casa,<br />

Tasting Room and Waldo’s.<br />

We are always happy to hear about a new wave of<br />

Striploin Steak<br />

chefs shaking up the established food scene. Ashton<br />

Gillespie is among London’s latest up and coming chefs<br />

with big futures.<br />

Le Rendez-Vous Dining and Cocktails<br />

109 Dundas Street, London<br />

519-204-0173<br />

www.lerendezvousldn.com<br />

tuesday–thursday: 5:00 pm–11:00 pm<br />

friday & saturday: 5:00 pm–2:00 am<br />

Grilled Octopus<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large.


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 11<br />

culinary education<br />

Local Food Skills<br />

and the LTC Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship Program<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Since 2002, David Corke has<br />

been the Executive Director<br />

of London Training Centre<br />

(LTC), an award winning,<br />

non-profit social mission driven<br />

organization, which applies marketbased<br />

strategies to self-fund programs<br />

and initiatives that help people have a<br />

positive impact in the community.<br />

Corke is a highly-respected and<br />

fervent food educator with a rocksteady<br />

commitment. He is a long-time<br />

proponent for local and sustainable<br />

food systems, from both a civic and<br />

economic development viewpoint.<br />

When it started in 1987, the LTC<br />

helped disenfranchised young people find<br />

employment in the food service industry.<br />

Since then, however, LTC has morphed<br />

into a cutting-edge and multifaceted<br />

organization providing food skills training,<br />

advocacy for careers in food service, and<br />

other services that range from computer<br />

training to banquet staffing.<br />

Corke’s work in the non-profit sector was<br />

influenced by a successful 20-year<br />

career in the private sector. He<br />

owned and operated<br />

restaurants, as well<br />

as being employed<br />

by a large foodservice<br />

corporation in the highly competitive<br />

Toronto market.<br />

I asked Corke his thoughts on why he<br />

thinks the restaurant industry is struggling<br />

so hard to find talent.<br />

“I think the short answer is twofold.<br />

Speaking locally about the London and<br />

region market — one where many customers<br />

are looking for consistency of product and<br />

price point, there are a limited number<br />

of restaurants where skilled chefs do not<br />

quickly become bored. At the same time,<br />

as culinary educators and advocates for<br />

London Training Centre’s Chef instructor Steve James with a<br />

student in the Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship Program<br />

the industry we believe that the staff of<br />

an operation should be considered much<br />

more than a labour cost on the profit and<br />

loss statement. Our point: the restaurant<br />

business is about people so if the goal is a<br />

dining room full of guests having incredible<br />

food experiences, owners need the best<br />

people working for them. If restaurateurs<br />

want their operations to be “exceptional”<br />

then they have to be the<br />

“exception” — and pay more<br />

for the best.”<br />

The Ministry of<br />

Training, Colleges<br />

and Universities has<br />

funded the LTC, for a second year, to<br />

provide a Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship<br />

program. The course, taught by expert chef<br />

instructors Steve James and John Fisher,<br />

examines in depth safe knife skills, kitchen<br />

sanitation and safety, fundamental cooking<br />

principles, menu design, pastry baking<br />

and bread making practices, nose to tail<br />

butchery, identification and use of seasonal<br />

produce, stock and sauce making. Limited<br />

enrollment and small class size offer a<br />

better opportunity for an exclusive student<br />

learning experience. The first session began


12 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

at the end of January, and the second intake<br />

will commence in June/July.<br />

Last year’s pilot program was a success.<br />

Students were given four months of full-time<br />

practical instruction. This was by followed<br />

by 12-week paid work placements with<br />

restaurants such as Roco Taco, Bertoldi’s<br />

Trattoria, Dolcetto and The Red Rabbit, and<br />

with Chef David Van Eldik at the Convention<br />

Centre. Some participants have moved<br />

on into culinary programs at Fanshawe<br />

College. “A lot of chefs we approached in the<br />

community are willing to take participants<br />

afterwards for co-ops. If they take them on<br />

as an apprentice after the placement, there<br />

is also additional funding available to them,”<br />

says James.<br />

Applicants are screened by James and<br />

Fisher and must demonstrate a commitment<br />

to the program. They are required have to<br />

an Ontario Secondary School Diploma or<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

equivalent and be available to attend the<br />

program full time<br />

Guest speakers, including chefs and<br />

restaurateurs, are slated for each session.<br />

In the past, Stratford chef Simon Briggs has<br />

given pastry demonstrations. Chef Michael<br />

Smith has spoken about the profession<br />

and chef/restaurateur Mark Kitching has<br />

talked to students about setting expectations<br />

in the restaurant industry. This session,<br />

restaurateur Ian Kennard from Willie’s Café<br />

will teach about food costing. The students<br />

are also taken on field trips. Destinations<br />

have included Antony John’s certified<br />

organic farm and greenhouses Soiled<br />

Reputation; the Milky Whey Fine Cheese<br />

Sheep in Stratford for a cheese tasting; and<br />

Jill’s Table for an olive oil tasting.<br />

The true essence of the LTC narrative is that<br />

they have achieved the whole seasonal cycle<br />

of our relationship with food. They are not<br />

Culinary students at the London Training Centre get hands-on, practical<br />

training and experience, as well as instruction from professionals like<br />

Chefs John Fisher (below right) and Steve James (top left)


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 13<br />

only culinary educators<br />

and employment<br />

specialists; they are<br />

also farmers, retailers,<br />

caterers, food artisans,<br />

restaurateurs, funders and<br />

local food advocates.<br />

The Local Food Skills<br />

program connects people<br />

to food. It provides solid<br />

food-based knowledge<br />

and provides participants<br />

with the opportunity<br />

to explore the idea of<br />

working with food as a<br />

job or a profession. The<br />

program is a full-time<br />

three week course that<br />

provides skills training,<br />

industry certifications<br />

and learning experiences<br />

including fundamental<br />

culinary skills, foodservice<br />

styles, growing, harvesting<br />

and retailing food at a farmers’ market.<br />

Revenue from the wildly popular monthly<br />

Local Food Skills dinner put on by students<br />

supports this program.<br />

Last spring, LTC launched The Larder, an<br />

online food store. Items are offered weekly,<br />

and might include croissants, Montreal-style<br />

bagels, specialty breads, and chicken and<br />

veal soup stocks; all are prepared by Culinary<br />

Program pre-apprenticeship students.<br />

Local Food Feasts Catering is another arm<br />

of the organization and operated by LTC<br />

with the support of the Local Food Skills<br />

program and the banquet staffing business<br />

known as Allumette.<br />

Feastival, the LTC’s fundraiser takes place<br />

annually. Last July, the popular event was<br />

“Owners need the best people working<br />

for them,” says London Training Centre’s<br />

Executive Director David Corke. “Our students<br />

are very engaged in learning and passionate<br />

about food.”<br />

a great success with<br />

artisanal food stations,<br />

guest chefs, live music,<br />

and Ontario wines and<br />

craft beers. Students of<br />

the Local Food Skills<br />

Program catered the<br />

event alongside special<br />

guest chefs and local<br />

food artisans like Las<br />

Chicas del Café, Railway<br />

City Brewing Company<br />

and volunteers from Les<br />

Marmitons London, who<br />

worked the pizza oven<br />

with chef John Fisher.<br />

This year the Feastival<br />

will relocate to the<br />

St. Thomas Canada<br />

Southern Railway<br />

Station (CASO) for a sitdown<br />

“Harvest Dinner”<br />

for approximately<br />

150 people on Friday<br />

October 7th. The dinner is a perfect way<br />

to celebrate seasonal local food while<br />

supporting Local Food Skills programming.<br />

If you would like to attend one of the<br />

monthly Local Food Skills dinners, learn<br />

more about the program, or to share your<br />

thoughts and ideas about food, the staff<br />

encourage you to contact them for more<br />

information.<br />

London Training Centre<br />

317 Adelaide St. South Unit 110, London<br />

519-685-4331<br />

www.londontraining.on.ca<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.<br />

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One Thursday each month chases away the blues!<br />

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64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />

www.redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

Thursday–Monday<br />

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55 George Street<br />

Stratford, Ontario<br />

tel. 519.272.2828<br />

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treats online at<br />

chocolatebarrs.com<br />

Holiday hours:<br />

Open evenings ’til<br />

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week long. Good<br />

Friday: closed.<br />

Open Easter Sat.<br />

from 8am to 6pm.


16 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

culinary retail<br />

It’s Family First<br />

at The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar, in London<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photos by STEVE GRIMES<br />

There’s something mellow about the<br />

way Jamie Griffiths does business.<br />

The guy is seriously calm. He emits<br />

an essence of happiness as he chats<br />

with customers in his Old North London<br />

shop, from his perch next to the front window.<br />

Surrounded by more than sixty gleaming<br />

silver tanks of olive oils and balsamic vinegars,<br />

Jamie has managed the most important aspect<br />

of being an entrepreneur and a father. That<br />

sometimes elusive work-life balance is solidly<br />

in his grasp. Since opening The Pristine Olive<br />

Tasting Bar nearly four years ago, he and his<br />

wife Clara have welcomed two babies to their<br />

lives. All while they have launched a new<br />

concept business, and Clara has held down<br />

a demanding customs broker position with<br />

Wilson International.<br />

From the start, the couple bucked the<br />

retail food trend and closed the shop on<br />

Sundays. Newborn son Reid went to the<br />

store with Jamie on Mondays, and spent<br />

Saturdays with Clara as Jamie worked in the<br />

shop on the busiest day of the week. Luckily,<br />

the Griffiths have the strong support of<br />

grandparents who pitch in and babysit on<br />

Fridays. The family now includes daughter<br />

Ally, whose care is added to the mix.<br />

Once done his grandparenting duties on<br />

Saturday morning, Dave Griffiths hightails it<br />

to the Western Fair Farmers’ Market, where<br />

he offers samples to shoppers, through the<br />

company’s retailer at the market, The Village<br />

Meat Shop. From the busy corner stall,<br />

Dave enthusiastically offers samples from<br />

a selection of oils that includes the most<br />

popular flavour, Tuscan Herb. It pairs well<br />

with the local lamb and pork sold by Erin and<br />

Andrew Jardine at Village Meats.<br />

“Dave is in his element at the market,” says<br />

Clara Griffiths of her father-in-law. “He loves<br />

to work there and he has a passion for the<br />

product,” she adds. Through market sales,<br />

Dave also encourages market shoppers to<br />

<strong>2016</strong><br />

Proprietors of The Pristine<br />

Olive Tasting Bar, Clara and<br />

Jamie Griffiths, with son Reid<br />

and daughter Ally, in their<br />

north London store<br />

2015 2014 2013<br />

Finding the perfect work/life balance, over time!<br />

visit The Pristine Olive for a more complete<br />

tasting experience.<br />

Before opening The Pristine Olive, Jamie<br />

and Dave Griffiths worked together in a<br />

telecom consulting company. Jamie said he<br />

was looking “for a change” but he knew he<br />

wanted to be self-employed. While Clara<br />

and Jamie were on vacation in Halifax in


№ 55 | September/October 2015<br />

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

The Pristine Olive<br />

offers over 60<br />

different olive<br />

oils and balsamic<br />

vinegars —<br />

stored in stainless<br />

steel "fusti" tanks<br />

— that you can<br />

sample before<br />

you buy<br />

2011, shortly<br />

after getting<br />

married, they<br />

stumbled<br />

into Canada’s first olive oil tasting bar, Liquid<br />

Gold. Taken by the concept, Jamie travelled<br />

with his father to Oakland, California where<br />

they toured Veronica Foods, supplier of oils<br />

and vinegars to Liquid Gold. “It was such<br />

an awesome experience, learning about it,”<br />

says Jamie. He returned a second time and<br />

since then he has also attended “olive oil<br />

summits” to meet farmers and producers<br />

who sell to Veronica Foods. The company is<br />

the sole supplier of product to The Pristine<br />

Olive, which sells 64 oils and vinegars,<br />

including 12 single cultivar extra virgin<br />

oils. “Veronica is an awesome company to<br />

work with. They are a supplier; we are not a<br />

franchise. Yet they give us super support.”<br />

The Pristine Olive also carries a small line<br />

of complementary products including olive<br />

oil based shampoo, conditioner and body<br />

wash. The Griffiths also sell some other food<br />

items including pesto made with olive oil,<br />

smoked artichoke tapenade, roasted red<br />

peppers in oil, meat rubs and hot sauces.<br />

They are toying with adding a line of locally<br />

made chocolates that contain their flavored<br />

oils. Throughout the shop are beautiful olive<br />

wood bowls and cutting boards — perfect<br />

for salads and dipping breads.<br />

At Metzger’s,<br />

we follow Old World<br />

recipes to create healthy and<br />

wholesome foods. We hand select<br />

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA<br />

Beef and offer superior local Pork,<br />

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially<br />

proud of our own handcrafted<br />

artisan-style meats and salamis. We<br />

are confident that you will taste the<br />

Metzger Meats difference.<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products


18 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Several bottle sizes — and sample size packages<br />

— enable experimentation and encourage cooks<br />

to only buy quantities they can use while fresh<br />

Recently the Griffiths were able<br />

to hire an employee, which frees up<br />

some time for Jamie to leave the shop.<br />

He’s able to run the kids to a nearby<br />

daycare, as they are getting too old to<br />

dash around the shop. And he supplies<br />

other retailers, including Jay Dancin<br />

in Lambeth, The Mill House in Arva,<br />

Thames Market in Ingersoll and All<br />

’Bout Cheese on Dundas St. in London.<br />

Still, where Jamie seems most<br />

content is back in North London, where<br />

he has lived all of his life. “It’s been a<br />

great little spot. There are so many faces<br />

we see all the time,” he says. “Our shop<br />

hours are built around Reid and Ally.<br />

We open at 10:30 and close at 5:30. And<br />

we close on the kids’ birthdays.”<br />

“We’re still learning about the<br />

work-life balance, how to minimize<br />

stress,” says Clara. But, looking at this<br />

couple, it is apparent they know how<br />

to bottle success.<br />

The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar<br />

462 Cheapside St, London<br />

519-433-4444<br />

www.thepristineolive.ca<br />

monday–friday: 10:30am–5:30pm<br />

saturday: 10:00am–5:00pm<br />

closed sunday<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to<br />

eatdrink, who prefers Tuscan Herb oil with Fig Dark<br />

Balsamic. She is also Manager, Communications &<br />

Media Relations, at King’s University College, London.<br />

Photographer STEVE GRIMES is a regular<br />

contributor of strong images to eatdrink. See more of his<br />

work and get contact info at www.grimesphoto.com.<br />

Just one of the 160+ recipes at thepristineolive.ca<br />

Ricotta-Basil Olive Oil Spread<br />

This easy spread has an aioli-like consistency but uses<br />

no eggs. Instead, fresh, part skim ricotta stands in,<br />

lending a creamy-dreamy texture and richness.<br />

I chose to use a Chilean Arbequina for this<br />

application. With its grassy-herbaceousness, apple<br />

peel center, and healthy peppery finish, it served<br />

to cut the richness of the ricotta and provide an<br />

interesting counterbalance.<br />

A clove of garlic, squeeze of lemon and sprig of<br />

basil later, the spread came together magnificently. I<br />

toasted some bread and liberally slathered it with the<br />

spread. However, it would be equally delicious as a<br />

mayonnaise replacement, a dip for crudites, or spread<br />

on fresh grilled salmon.<br />

1½ cup part skim ricotta cheese<br />

½ cup Ultra Premium, Chilean Arbequina EVOO<br />

five-inch sprig of fresh basil, washed and dried<br />

1 clove fresh garlic, smashed<br />

1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice<br />

1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste<br />

Place the ingredients inside the bowl of a food<br />

processor or blender and process until creamy and<br />

smooth in consistency.<br />

Adjust seasoning and store tightly covered in the<br />

refrigerator for up to three days.


Welcome to Wortley Village<br />

“One of Canada’s Coolest Neighbourhoods”<br />

The Heart of Old South<br />

beautiful landscapes,<br />

creative containers and florals<br />

for every moment<br />

green with envy<br />

GARDEN • FLORAL<br />

141 Wortley Road, London<br />

519.878.4666<br />

www.greenwithenvydesigns.com<br />

FA S HIONS & A C C E SSORI E S


20 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

road trips<br />

Getaway to Toronto<br />

Where to find some of the city’s culinary hotspots<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

SPONSORED BY<br />

What is more exciting than<br />

planning a culinary getaway<br />

to Toronto? Here are a few<br />

recommendations and tips for<br />

navigating the vibrant and ever-changing<br />

restaurant scene and some of Toronto’s<br />

hottest culinary tickets.<br />

Park your vehicle. There is an efficient<br />

transit system that makes it easy to get<br />

around the city. More than that, Toronto is a<br />

walkable city of many communities with great<br />

restaurants, markets and culinary retailers.<br />

Located on Front Street and operating<br />

since 1803, the St. Lawrence Market is<br />

heralded as the world’s best food market<br />

by National Geographic. The other mustsee<br />

is Kensington Market, another noted<br />

gastronomic attraction, and colourful vestige<br />

of the area’s storied history. The market is<br />

an expansive multi-cultural culinary scene<br />

Chabrol, at 90<br />

Yorkville Ave., offers a<br />

baked-to-order apple<br />

tarte served with a<br />

calvados sabayon<br />

sprawling across<br />

numerous blocks<br />

to the west of<br />

downtown’s<br />

vibrant<br />

Chinatown.<br />

Both markets remain a fundamental part<br />

of Toronto’s epicurean culture, even for the<br />

most jaded of visitors.<br />

The revitalization of former industrial<br />

neighbourhoods like the Junction with<br />

its proximity to High Park has meant a<br />

proliferation of upscale restaurants, stylish<br />

cafes and indie bars opening along Dundas<br />

Richmond Station, just south of Richmond St. off Yonge,<br />

features an inspired daily chalkboard menu<br />

Photos by Renée Suen, Toronto Life<br />

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22 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

The Indie Ale House on Dundas Street West<br />

Street West. The Junction neighbourhood was<br />

ostensibly dry until 2001, and the elimination<br />

of prohibition has had an irrefutable effect by<br />

attracting a new hip demographic. The Indie<br />

Ale House brewpub in the Junction is perfect<br />

for craft beer aficionados, who like beer flights<br />

or quality upscale food offerings, or maybe just<br />

want to pick up a growler to go. Praiseworthy<br />

spots in the ’hood are Cool Hand of a Girl,<br />

Nodo, and Bricco Wine Bar. Other standouts<br />

are Honest Weight, a New England-inspired<br />

fishmonger/seafood spot, and a gourmet takeout<br />

sandwich shop, Cut the Cheese. The Hole<br />

In the Wall is cozy venue for live music, craft<br />

beer and cocktails. Don’t forget the Junction<br />

Farmers’ Market on Saturdays.<br />

Chef Rob Gentile and his partner’s third<br />

and most sophisticated restaurant is the<br />

style-driven 100-seat Buca Yorkville, on the<br />

main floor of Yorkville’s Four Seasons condo<br />

tower. A personal favourite, Buca Yorkville<br />

has a stylish Italian design sensibility and<br />

a seafood-focused menu. The initial Buca,<br />

squirrelled away down an alleyway on King<br />

Street West, is still one of the city’s great<br />

Behind the door at<br />

Boralia, on Ossington,<br />

diners enjoy modern<br />

riffs on Canadian<br />

frontier food, with<br />

a menu inspired<br />

by traditional<br />

Aboriginal dishes and<br />

recipes of 18th- and<br />

19th-century settlers<br />

and immigrants.<br />

Cool Hand of a Girl, in Toronto’s Junction District<br />

osterias. And Bar Buca, Gentile’s<br />

chic aperitivo/snack bar at<br />

King and Portland reflects the<br />

mouthwatering diversity of the<br />

Italian foodscape in Toronto.<br />

A new and great place to check<br />

out is the tiny, recently opened<br />

southern French-inspired Chabrol,<br />

located in the refurbished 20-seat<br />

back dining room of what was<br />

previously Le Trou Normand.


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

A visit to one of David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants<br />

(above & below) is de rigeur for the serious foodie<br />

Until this past summer, Le Trou Normand<br />

was Yorkville’s oldest French restaurant,<br />

where I once worked with a young Susur Lee<br />

during the restaurant’s heyday. Speaking of<br />

Lee, he recently opened the upscale comfortfood-style<br />

Frings with rapper Drake, on King<br />

Street — where it remains difficult to get a<br />

reservation.<br />

David Chang’s Momofuku Noodle Bar<br />

started the “Lucky Peach” empire and that’s<br />

why dining at the Toronto outpost attached<br />

to the Shangri-La Hotel on University Avenue<br />

is de rigueuer before venturing to Chang’s<br />

other restaurants, Momofuku Daisho and<br />

Momofuku Shoto. With innovative takes on<br />

what would ordinarily be considered street<br />

food, Noodle Bar’s signature specialty is ramen<br />

with pork belly and shoulder, fish cake, and<br />

egg — and of course its famed fried chicken.<br />

Be sure to pick up a copy of Lucky Peach, a<br />

quarterly food and lifestyle journal.<br />

Maplelea Canadian Dolls<br />

<strong>March</strong> 12-19 (<strong>March</strong> Break)<br />

During <strong>March</strong> Break, there will be a large<br />

pop-up Maplelea Canadian Dolls shop at the<br />

Market featuring different activities, including:<br />

Dining with your doll at the Maplelea Café,<br />

making tasty treats at the Maplelea Cooking<br />

School and daily craft sessions.<br />

Winter Indoor Farmers’ Market<br />

Saturdays until <strong>March</strong> 19, 9am–1pm<br />

The Winter Indoor Farmers’ Market opens on<br />

Saturday mornings until <strong>March</strong> 19th, upstairs<br />

on the mezzanine. A special Outdoor Easter<br />

Farmers’ Market will operate on Saturday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 26, 8am–1pm. Expect to see some of your<br />

favourite farmers, bakers & crafters on hand.<br />

Meals on Wheels<br />

Friday, <strong>March</strong> 18<br />

Help raise $50,000 in vital funds for Meals on<br />

Wheels London programs and services. Join us<br />

at our annual fundraiser Move for Wheels<br />

(formerly Walk for Wheels).


24 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Panzanella with fried eggplant<br />

& grilled white peaches<br />

Chef Rob Gentile and his partner have three restaurants<br />

in Toronto. This is the stylish interior of Buca Yorkville. Three<br />

dishes are shown to the right.<br />

Interesting restaurants paying homage to the nostalgic<br />

underpinnings of Canadian food culture are<br />

Actinolite, Boralia, Richmond Station and Edulis.<br />

The ingredient-focused and technique-driven<br />

Richmond Station is just south of Richmond Street, off<br />

Yonge Street. Chefs Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan<br />

have a daily chalkboard menu.<br />

What started with a few independents on Ossington<br />

has morphed into many resto/bars locating in the<br />

in the area in the last couple of years. We appreciate<br />

chef Justin<br />

Cournoyer<br />

and co-owner<br />

Claudia<br />

Bianchi’s<br />

Trout<br />

Gnocchi with green beans & saffron<br />

Farinata with chick pea crepe, peperonata,<br />

robiola cheese and hen’s egg<br />

venerated Actinolite restaurant, which was decreed by<br />

Toronto Globe and Mail dining critic Chris Nuttall-Smith<br />

as “one of the most essential places to eat in Ontario, if<br />

not in Canada.”<br />

At Boralia, on the southern part of the Ossington<br />

Strip, chefs Wayne Morris and Evelyn Wu offer top<br />

notch dishes inspired by indigenous peoples and early<br />

settlers — think modern riffs on Canadian frontier food.<br />

Actinolite (below) is “one of the most essential places to eat in<br />

Ontario, if not Canada,” according to Globe & Mail dining critic<br />

Chris Nuttall-Smith. Three dishes are shown to the left.<br />

Sweetbreads<br />

Carrots


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

London’s<br />

Best Kept<br />

Secret<br />

Photo by Virginia Macdonald, enRoute<br />

Edulis, off the<br />

beaten track on<br />

Niagara St. near<br />

King, takes farmto-table<br />

seriously,<br />

with a heritage<br />

Chantecler chicken<br />

baked in fresh hay.<br />

Another<br />

Ossington<br />

hotspot is<br />

the 40-seat<br />

Bellwoods Brewery located in a repurposed<br />

garage. The beer is brewed on site and it’s an<br />

alternative spot to pick up a growler.<br />

Chefs Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth’s<br />

Edulis is a much acclaimed gem located below<br />

the King West beaten track on Niagara St.<br />

The Wychwood/Hillcrest Village is another<br />

foodie favourite hub, forging the longest<br />

corridor of the most ethnically diverse<br />

culinary establishments in mid-town. The<br />

southern barbeque at The Stockyards,<br />

sustainable ocean-wise certified fish and<br />

chips at Sea Witch, and modernist spins on<br />

Indian cuisine at Pukka are all highly touted.<br />

The area is also home to Artscape Wychwood<br />

Barns, originally built as a streetcar<br />

maintenance facility in 1913. The converted<br />

heritage building is a community centre and<br />

cultural hub with a mix of amenities including<br />

arts, culture, food security, urban agriculture,<br />

environmental and other initiatives. The Stop’s<br />

Farmers’ Market there on Saturdays attracts<br />

foodies with its diversity of quality farm fresh<br />

food and artisanal products.<br />

The range of choice in Toronto, gastronom<br />

ically speaking, is endless. Check out<br />

my blog for other recommendations, at<br />

ethicalgourmet. blogspot.com<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor & Writer at Large.<br />

Located at the Four Points London<br />

NEWLY REMODELED<br />

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Comfort Food<br />

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London<br />

519.681.0600<br />

fourpointslondon.com


26 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

travel<br />

A Taste of Southern Hospitality<br />

Discovering the Eclectic Culinary Pulse of Atlanta, Georgia<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

Somehow Atlanta wasn’t on my<br />

bucket list. A big American city<br />

for a long weekend getaway —<br />

“no thanks” was on the tip of my<br />

tongue before I remembered the genteel<br />

hospitality of other Southern sweet spots<br />

like Charleston and New Orleans. Then<br />

thoughts of shrimp, po’ boy sandwiches and<br />

peach cocktails surfaced. Suddenly, the idea<br />

of spending some time back in the American<br />

south became more appealing.<br />

This jaunt to Atlanta was the dream child<br />

of my book club crew, who love to travel.<br />

Every three years or so, after we have salted<br />

away enough cash from our monthly dues,<br />

we pack up and head off for an extended<br />

weekend. Reading takes place only on<br />

the plane. We call ourselves the Yia Yias,<br />

modeling ourselves after characters in<br />

books we have loved, who also enjoy their<br />

fair share of good eating, drinking, gabbing,<br />

touring and shopping.<br />

It’s relatively easy to get to Atlanta from<br />

London for a weekend. Flights from London<br />

International Airport via Chicago have you<br />

there by noon. Atlanta has excellent municipal<br />

ground transportation, called Marta, that<br />

whisked us from the airport to the upscale<br />

neighbour of Buckhead for only $2.50.<br />

We love staying at Embassy Suites hotels<br />

as they include full breakfasts and, most importantly,<br />

the infamous manager’s reception:<br />

free happy hour drinks from 5 to 7 p.m. At the<br />

Buckhead Embassy Suites, be sure to ask for<br />

the “special” cocktail, as in, “I’m gonna make<br />

y’all something nice and special” with peach<br />

juice, peach schnapps and well, whatever<br />

else makes it special. Oh, did I mention it was<br />

free? Front of house staff were exceptionally<br />

helpful and even provided a complimentary<br />

upgrade with a wink and smile.<br />

We share an interest in cooking, so past<br />

trips have included cooking classes and<br />

culinary tours. This time we opted for the<br />

Atlanta’s Midtown, viewed from Piedmont Park


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

presents<br />

The food options are plentiful: Venezuelan sandwiches<br />

(above) can be found at the Sweet Auburn Curb Market,<br />

and offerings from Cuban grocer Lotta Frutta (below)<br />

include these appetizing cremolata fruit cups<br />

Hope<br />

made<br />

delicious<br />

APRIL 20<br />

in partnership with<br />

Atl-Cruzers electric car food tour of Atlanta.<br />

With Steve at the wheel of a doorless Smartcar-type<br />

machine, we glided noiselessly<br />

along, with stops to sample interesting new<br />

cuisines. We went to the Sweet Auburn Curb<br />

Market and had arepas — hearty Venezuelan<br />

sandwiches with plantain — from Arepa<br />

Mia, along with delicious Mexican cold<br />

chocolate beverages. We had the cremolatta<br />

fruit cup from Lotta Frutta, a Cuban grocer.<br />

We stopped at Ponce City Market for pecan<br />

oil tasting at Strippagio, and a chicken<br />

sandwich from Hop’s Chicken. Also at the<br />

Market was a shop called 1821 Bitters that<br />

makes handcrafted premium cocktail bitters,<br />

Book a table and<br />

the restaurant will donate 25%<br />

of the cost of your meal to the<br />

Regional HIV/AIDS Connection<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

List of Participating Restaurants at:<br />

www.atasteforlife.org


28 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Your culinary tour of Atlanta might include riding in<br />

a novel electric car (above) and include a visit to the<br />

Buckhead Diner (right) for some modern takes on classic<br />

tinctures, shrubs, syrups, old fashioned<br />

tonic, ginger beer, and craft cocktail mix<br />

using fresh ingredients. I bought spicy ginger<br />

beer syrup which was a hit back home. Our<br />

last stop was Lure,where we enjoyed classic<br />

scallops and grits (recipe on the next page).<br />

Not only was this tour delicious, we also<br />

saw some important historical sites including<br />

places made famous by Martin Luther King<br />

Jr., Inman Park, and the location of the 1996<br />

Olympics. This tour is rated number one on<br />

Trip Advisor in Atlanta, and for good reason.<br />

It was a highlight experience for all seven of<br />

us. Plan to have this tour be your main meal<br />

of the day, as you will not leave hungry.<br />

When in Atlanta, pretty much everyone<br />

has to have a Coca-Cola. A visit to the World<br />

of Coca-Cola in downtown Atlanta is well<br />

worth it, even if you are not into drinking<br />

your coke without rum. (We asked — they<br />

declined.) But we did try a multitude of colas<br />

from around the world, including various<br />

fruit-based sodas. Visitors enjoy a selfguided<br />

tour through the museum, including<br />

a stop inside the vault that contains the<br />

Coca-Cola recipe — or so it’s claimed. We<br />

American diner food, a stop at the seafood market<br />

(bottom right), and some time at the World of Coca-Cola<br />

(bottom left).<br />

particularly enjoyed seeing all the artifacts<br />

related to Coca Cola’s sponsorship of<br />

Olympic events over the years. The museum<br />

is located next to the Atlanta aquarium,<br />

which is also a popular tourism destination.<br />

The perfect antidote to all that coke was a<br />

visit to Buckhead Diner on Piedmont Road.<br />

Some fried green tomatoes, house-made<br />

blue cheese potato chips, and pulled BBQ<br />

beef brisket spring rolls topped off our classic<br />

American day. This is one of the fanciest<br />

diners I have visited. Picture valet parking<br />

and limos. Very high end, while still retro<br />

classic American. Well worth a visit. Also on<br />

Piedmont is Bones, a restaurant consistently<br />

rated #1 on Zagats. This traditional steak<br />

house is reminiscent of Chicago —<br />

professional yet friendly service by long-time<br />

waiters, and a kitchen that certainly knows<br />

how to serve a perfect piece of meat.<br />

We found bliss in the form of bourbon<br />

and pecan pie at the tantalizing Southern<br />

Art & Bourbon Bar on Peachtree Road N.E.<br />

It’s situated in the beautiful Intercontinental<br />

Hotel, with live jazz playing in the atrium.<br />

Southern posh at its finest.


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

It was truly surprising how culinarily<br />

focused Atlanta can be for visitors. From<br />

sampling praline candies and Chicago mix<br />

popcorn at one of the three markets we<br />

visited, to tap houses with more than 100<br />

beers on offer, it seemed that the city had<br />

developed a definite eclectic culinary pulse.<br />

Our birthday girl was more than pleased<br />

with her choice of location. “I found the<br />

friendliness of the residents to be an added<br />

surprise,” says Janet Carr. “Everyone we met<br />

was helpful, enthusiastic and genuinely<br />

enjoyed helping, and were passionate about<br />

their city. True southern hospitality.”<br />

JANE ANTONIAK has been a member of the Yia Yia’s book<br />

club since it was founded more than 20 years ago in London.<br />

She is also a regular culinary travel writer for eatdrink.<br />

Lure Scallops ‘n’ Grits<br />

with Maple Hot Sauce Butter<br />

MAPLE-HOT SAUCE BUTTER<br />

1 pound butter, cold, cut into 1oz pieces<br />

1 tbsp water<br />

1½ tbsp crystal hot sauce<br />

1½ tbsp maple syrup<br />

juice of half a lemon<br />

Bring water to boil in a small saucepan over<br />

medium low heat. Whisk in cold butter one<br />

piece at time. Keep sauce moving constantly.<br />

Add maple syrup and hot sauce. Stir to combine.<br />

Add lemon juice and taste. Adjust as necessary.<br />

Sauté large scallops. Drizzle with sauce.<br />

Serve on bed of grits cooked with butter, milk<br />

and parmesan cheese. Top with a poached egg.<br />

OPEN<br />

Thursday to Sunday<br />

11am to 8pm<br />

Five Fortune Culture<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

366 Richmond Street at King<br />

www.fivefortuneculture.com<br />

226 667 9873<br />

“Pure<br />

Chinese”<br />

Cuisine<br />

—eatdrink<br />

A Taste of Europe since 1974<br />

MURDER MYSTERIES<br />

<strong>April</strong> 1 • <strong>April</strong> 29<br />

122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)<br />

519-679-9940<br />

Open Daily for Dinner<br />

www.marienbad.ca<br />

Lunch Monday–Saturday


30 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

The BUZZ ... new and notable<br />

Around Our Region<br />

You can easily spend an hour, a day or a<br />

weekend exploring along the Oxford County<br />

Cheese Trail. The trail is divided into hubs to<br />

help you identify what highlights are nearby.<br />

If you plan on seeing everything on the trail, the suggested<br />

route starts at Mountainoak Cheese and continues to<br />

Bright Cheese & Butter, Woodstock, Gunn’s Hill Artisan<br />

Cheese, Norwich, and to Tillsonburg and Ingersoll (or<br />

Ingersoll–Tillsonburg–Norwich works, too). By following<br />

this route, your next stop is always just 20 minutes away or<br />

less. www.tourismoxford.ca/cheese-trail<br />

The Dairy Capital<br />

Cheese Fest is a one day<br />

interactive family event on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 23 that will celebrate<br />

Woodstock, Ontario’s<br />

recognition as the Dairy<br />

Capital of Canada and<br />

connect the community<br />

to local cheese makers,<br />

artisans and restaurants<br />

in Woodstock and the<br />

surrounding area. www.<br />

dairycapitalcheesefest.ca<br />

Woodstock is about to enter the craft beer scene with a<br />

brewery slated to open in June. Upper Thames Brewing<br />

Co. is getting its new home at 225 Bysham Park ready to<br />

produce small batches of five beer styles, including a Scotch<br />

ale and a Belgian wheat.<br />

Get out to McCully’s Farm and learn how maple syrup is<br />

made! Take a horse drawn wagon ride through the sugar<br />

bush, see how the sap is collected, and then visit the sugar<br />

shack. Make a stop in the barn and see what the animals are<br />

up to and then stay for a delicious pancake brunch featuring<br />

McCully’s own maple syrup. Weekends starting Saturday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 5th to Sunday, <strong>March</strong> 27th. www.mccullys.ca<br />

Chris and Mary Woolf recently celebrated two years in<br />

business with Little Red’s Pub and Eatery in downtown St.<br />

Marys. The Woolfs have been dedicated and loyal proponents<br />

of the area’s farmers, artisans, and sustainable and organic<br />

producers for two decades. The eatery features a wide<br />

selection of Ontario craft beers and wines. www.littlereds.ca<br />

Railway City Brewery of St. Thomas has launched a new<br />

series that plays on a circus theme. The first entry in Railway<br />

City’s Side Show series is Strong Man, which has been<br />

described as a “big,<br />

We want your<br />

BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that you’d<br />

like us to share? Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario in print,<br />

and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly<br />

with our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

buff, and burly Belgian<br />

dark strong ale.” It’s<br />

10.3 per cent alcohol,<br />

offered in 500 ml bottles<br />

and dressed up with<br />

a red bottle cap for<br />

which you’ll need a<br />

bottle opener. www.<br />

railwaycitybrewing.com<br />

Hope made Delicious!<br />

Participating restaurants<br />

will open their doors for A Taste for Life on Wednesday <strong>April</strong><br />

20th and donate 25% of the evening sales to AIDS Service<br />

Organizations in the community. Support men, women and<br />

children in your community by going out to dinner. A Taste for<br />

Life serves the regions of Perth, Huron, Oxford, Elgin, Lambton<br />

and Middlesex counties. www.atasteforlife.org/london.htm<br />

Congratulations to Chef Mark Graham of the Clock<br />

Tower Inn and Strathroy Ale House for winning one of<br />

the Architectural Conservancy Ontario & London Heritage<br />

Council HERITAGE Awards for <strong>2016</strong>. The award is being given<br />

to the restaurant for the restoration of a landmark historic<br />

building; converting it into a warm and welcoming inn and<br />

restaurant. www.clocktower-inn.com<br />

A traditional Brazilian delicacy,<br />

perfect for all events!<br />

25 Different<br />

Flavours<br />

226.700.4421 | 519.702.0701<br />

sweetbrigadeiros.ca<br />

Saturdays - Covent Garden Market (London)<br />

Sundays - Perth County Slow Food Market (Stratford)


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Want more maple syrup? Visit Jakeman’s Maple Farm<br />

in Oxford County near Beachville in <strong>March</strong> and help<br />

support the local 4H clubs by eating delicious pancakes<br />

topped with Jakeman’s Pure Maple Syrup! www.jakemans.<br />

themaplestore.com<br />

Ontario’s Southwest (OSW) is presenting a second City<br />

Fare event on May 26th in Toronto, with support from<br />

local destination marketing organizations. This intimate<br />

tasting event will showcase the region’s wines, craft beers,<br />

and culinary partners. OSW is again partnering with<br />

Yellow Wine Club to coordinate this occasion. www.<br />

ontariossouthwest.com<br />

Steven, David and Grant Sparling have announced plans<br />

to open a new craft brewery in Blyth — Cowbell Brewing<br />

Company. The project, which will also include a brew-pub,<br />

event space and an on-site farm, is expected to take several<br />

months to complete. But early offerings with be available<br />

from the LCBO beginning in May, through a co-packing<br />

agreement with a Hamilton brewery. cowbellbrewing.com<br />

Ontario Premier Kathleen Wynne announced in mid-<br />

February the government’s plan to allow wine sales in a<br />

limited number of grocery stores across the province. The<br />

province will allow imported and domestic wine sales at<br />

up to 150 grocery stores, starting with 70 locations this fall.<br />

These new ventures will join 150 winery retail stores that<br />

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TUES–THURS: 3–7:30<br />

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WALK-IN GUESTS<br />

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№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course<br />

prix fixe menu<br />

option<br />

432 Richmond St.<br />

at Carling • London<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine<br />

• FAMILY<br />

FRIENDLY<br />

• Vegetarian<br />

Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

• Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

LUNCH Tuesday–Friday 11am–1pm by reservation<br />

DINNER Tuesday–Sunday 5–10pm • Closed Monday<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com<br />

currently operate just outside grocery store checkouts in<br />

the province. Half of the new licences will stipulate the<br />

winning grocery store sell only VQA wines for the first three<br />

years before being allowed to bring in other wines. Ontario<br />

will also allow cider to be sold where beer is available for<br />

purchase in the province.<br />

A new festival is coming to the Town of Leamington<br />

this summer. It will celebrate locally sourced food and<br />

beverages designed to bring chefs, farmers, winemakers,<br />

brewmasters and local food producers together to create<br />

a culinary experience. www.leamington.ca/en/discover/<br />

festivalsandeventsthingstodo.asp<br />

Stratford<br />

Stratford’s sweetest trail yet celebrates the taste of<br />

Ontario’s first crop of the season and is only available<br />

during <strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>! The Savour Stratford Maple<br />

Trail takes you on a self-guided taste of maple delights.<br />

Pick up your spoon to enjoy fresh maple syrup atop vanilla<br />

ice cream garnished with maple flakes or refreshing maple<br />

frozen yogurt. Enjoy hand-made maple creams enrobed in<br />

chocolate, copper kettle made maple fudge and traditional<br />

maple sugar candy. Relax while savouring a maple dessert<br />

in a majestic dining room or take away maple mocha java,<br />

or naturally maple-flavoured Ceylon tea, to share with<br />

friends at home. Create your own maple experience from<br />

more than a dozen choices. visitstratford.ca/mapletrail<br />

For over three decades, Keystone Alley Café was both<br />

popular and highly respected. Hospitality stalwarts<br />

Sheldon and Patti Russell retired at the end of October<br />

2015. However, the Russells are still operating The Key’d<br />

Inn, which opened in 1999 and consists of two spacious<br />

suites located above the restaurant, offering stylish bed<br />

and breakfast accommodation. www.keystonealley.com<br />

Revival House Concerts: Amelia Curran with Jory<br />

Nash — <strong>March</strong> 24. They Promised You Mercy is the latest<br />

collection of songs from Amelia Curran, Canada’s master<br />

contemporary songstress. The Rizdales — <strong>April</strong> 21. A<br />

tribute to Ray Price with special guests. Lead by husband<br />

and wife songwriting team Tom and Tara Dunphy, the<br />

Rizdales are a hardcore honkytonk band from London,<br />

Ontario with a sound that comes from deep in the American<br />

south. Why not start with dinner before the concert for a<br />

memorable evening in Stratford? www.revival.house.ca<br />

Swan Parade Weekend Celebrations: <strong>April</strong> 2–3.<br />

Stratford salutes spring with the quirky ritual of marching<br />

the swans to the Avon River. Family fun starts Saturday<br />

downtown with live entertainment, music, street<br />

performers and a quest for decorated swan topiaries and<br />

a chance to win prizes. On Sunday there will be family<br />

entertainment, and food trucks run from 12 noon–3 pm on<br />

Lakeside Drive with the swans parading at 2 pm lead by<br />

the Stratford Police Pipes and Drums. (Swan Parade only<br />

takes place on Sunday) www.visitstratford.ca/swans


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

The heart of<br />

Downtown<br />

Strathroy<br />

Welcome<br />

to<br />

Strathroy!<br />

Just down the road ...<br />

35 km to London<br />

A Strathroy Tradition<br />

• Fabulous Sunday Brunch<br />

• Family Dinners<br />

• Fully Licensed by LLBO<br />

• Banquet & Wedding Packages Available<br />

• Take-Out & Delivery Available (ask for details)<br />

• Family Owned & Operated<br />

In recognition of restoring<br />

a historic landmark building,<br />

we just received a <strong>2016</strong><br />

ACO-HLF Heritage Award!<br />

Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s commitment to<br />

fresh, creative, locally-sourced<br />

menus extends to his fullservice<br />

catering to<br />

Strathroy, London<br />

& area. Call for a quote<br />

for your next party<br />

or event!<br />

Sunday<br />

Brunch<br />

10am–2pm<br />

Private Meeting & Banquet Rooms<br />

for groups up to 100<br />

28537 Centre Road, Strathroy<br />

just off Hwy 402 @ Hwy 81 & Second St.<br />

519-245-5400<br />

www.amys-restaurant.com<br />

Historic Post Office & Customs Building<br />

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500<br />

www.clocktower-inn.com


34 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Puck’s Plenty Early Spring Foraging — <strong>April</strong> 16, 23,<br />

30. Join naturalist/forager Peter Blush as he searches forest<br />

trails for springtime wild edibles such as wild leeks, trout<br />

lilies, saddle mushrooms, wild ginger and more, while you<br />

discover the natural beauty of forest and field just a short<br />

drive from Stratford. Learn to harvest these delicious gems<br />

of nature sustainably. Recipes for seasonal wild edibles will<br />

also be supplied. www.pucksplenty.com<br />

Rundles Weekend Cooking Classes: Weekends in <strong>April</strong><br />

( Friday-Sunday). Rundles Restaurant provides a unique<br />

culinary experience for those interested in hands on cooking<br />

London’s Destination<br />

for Culinary Excellence<br />

Reserve a<br />

Private Room<br />

for Your<br />

Party!<br />

32<br />

Lunch Tuesday to Friday<br />

Dinner 7 Nights a Week<br />

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm<br />

1 York Street<br />

519-672-0111<br />

Continental cuisine – with a<br />

contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking.<br />

From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees,<br />

Michael’s makes your celebration an event.<br />

Free On-Site Parking<br />

Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com<br />

for Weekly Specials and Theme Nights Info<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

Make the<br />

Perfect Gift<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

under the guidance of one of our country’s most celebrated<br />

chefs — Neil Baxter. Immerse yourself in three fabulous<br />

days of culinary learning. (Accommodation is not included.)<br />

www.rundlesrestaurant.com<br />

Junction 56 Distillery Tours. Come to Stratford’s newest<br />

distillery, specializing in vodka, gin and moonshine. Stop by<br />

on a Saturdays for a lively and informative tour. 45 Cambria<br />

Street. www.junction56.ca<br />

Bijou will be serving Sunday Brunch, presenting “Global<br />

Dim Sum” directly from the Dim Sum cart. Brunches will<br />

commence Sunday, <strong>March</strong> 27 and continue throughout the<br />

year. The Prix Fixe menu will be available from Thursday,<br />

<strong>April</strong> 28 through Thanksgiving. Bijou is planning not to close<br />

next winter (expect to hear exciting details early summer).<br />

www.bijourestaurant.com<br />

London<br />

After seven great years in London, Veg Out chef/owner<br />

Florine Morrison announced that she would be closing<br />

Veg Out in <strong>April</strong>. Culinary stalwarts Yoda Olinyk and Mike<br />

Fish — associates of Morrison —announced in January<br />

they’ll be opening their new restaurant Glassroots in the<br />

premises at 646 Richmond St. after Veg Out closes. Olinyk is<br />

a Red Seal chef who operates a very successful vegetarian<br />

catering company called Yoda’s Kitchen in St. Thomas, and<br />

runs a stall at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market<br />

on Saturdays. Fish, her partner in life and work, is a certified<br />

sommelier and brings years of experience and training in<br />

the wine industry with a goal to offer one of London’s best<br />

wine, craft beer and cocktail lists. Glassroots will be a hub<br />

for healthy food culture, as well as a haven for wine lovers. It<br />

is expected to open in May. www.glassrootslondon.com<br />

Justin and Gregg Wolfe of The Early Bird diner and Rock<br />

au Taco continue to work on their new concept Wolfe of<br />

Wortley. They are trying to bring a new experience to Wortley<br />

Village with a cozy 24-seat restaurant and a 14-seat patio, but<br />

have had a delay in getting the place rezoned by the City. The<br />

concept includes oysters and charcuterie, a frequently changing<br />

shareable menu ... different from pub fare happening in the<br />

neighbourhood now. Expect a May opening date.


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

One of our favourite offerings at the London Wine and<br />

Food Show were Farm Boy’s pork belly and kimchee on<br />

hand-made steam buns, by Chef Stephanie Brewster<br />

and her team. Brewster told us that she recently accepted<br />

the GM position at The Royal Botanical Gardens<br />

in Burlington, with Spectra. She is excited about the<br />

opportunity for creativity and building a brand, but we are<br />

going to miss her in London!<br />

Manito’s has moved from the Covent Garden Market to<br />

the former El Ranchito premises on Wellington Road in<br />

SoHo. They specialize in Portuguese style piri-piri rotisserie<br />

chicken, ribs and made-to-order panini press sandwiches.<br />

www.manitos.ca<br />

Fancy Tarts is a family-owned and operated bakeshop,<br />

located at 360 Springbank Drive. Shirley Lassaline and<br />

daughters Melissa Lassaline and Sara Saldana specialize<br />

in from-scratch butter tarts, pies, squares, cakes and loaves.<br />

Call or text in the morning — have a beautiful, hot-out-ofthe-oven<br />

pie for dinner. They are also happy to help with any<br />

corporate and event catering needs. Look for them throughout<br />

the region at home shows, farmers’ markets and summer<br />

festivals. And you can find them on Facebook, anytime!<br />

Sasa and Branka Milidrag’s Euro Pastry has moved to 467<br />

Dundas Street. Only pure, high quality natural ingredients<br />

are used in their baking, with no added chemicals or<br />

Your Premium<br />

Destination<br />

“Creative,<br />

local and<br />

sustainable<br />

dishes ...”<br />

639 Peel Street, Woodstock<br />

519-536-9602<br />

www.sixthirtynine.com<br />

Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

109 Dundas St, London<br />

519-204-0173<br />

lerendezvousldn.com


RTIES<br />

Come HOME to La Casa!<br />

2 for 20<br />

2-Course<br />

Lunch<br />

$20<br />

117 King Street<br />

across from Budweiser Gardens<br />

519-434-2272 (CASA)<br />

www.lacasaristorante.com<br />

“Enjoy consistently<br />

outstanding Italian and<br />

International cuisine<br />

enhanced by local and<br />

seasonal ingredients.”<br />

A<br />

London<br />

Landmark<br />

for<br />

22<br />

Years!<br />

Perfect for Small Weddings & Receptions!<br />

Extensive<br />

Scotch Bar<br />

Open Mon–Sat<br />

Lunch & Dinner<br />

142 fullarton at richmond<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

preservatives. Inspired by the classic European baking canon,<br />

cookies, cakes (Sacher tortes, Black Forest and Moscow Snit),<br />

pastries, bureks, strudels and savouries are made in-house<br />

daily, from scratch. The bakery has expanded its menu to<br />

include goulash, cabbage rolls, vegetables soups and take-out<br />

lunches, especially enjoyed by students at Catholic Central<br />

high school across the street and Beal secondary school, a<br />

block east. Quality and a high level of service are the hallmarks<br />

of the hands-on owners.www.europastrylo.ca<br />

The Western Fair District is now taking applications for<br />

the <strong>2016</strong> Agricultural Leadership Intern Program. This<br />

program is designed to expand the student’s knowledge of<br />

the importance of agriculture, ag-education programming<br />

and public service. It will also provide learning and<br />

professional experiences for the intern. It is a paid position.<br />

Submit your application by Friday, <strong>March</strong> 25.<br />

Bill Reath and the folks at Kinehdn Maple Sugar<br />

Company at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market<br />

feature fine maple products, maple sugar, syrup, BBQ sauce,<br />

maple mustard and more. Passionate about their products,<br />

they love making people happy, and are proud to serve<br />

traditional candy apples with a maple syrup coating and<br />

maple suckers that are 100% pure maple syrup.<br />

Since 1972, the Kinsmen Club of Greater London has<br />

been providing outdoor family fun at Fanshawe Sugar<br />

Bush. There are demonstrations of tree tapping, and<br />

sap lines, craft demonstrations, musicians and displays<br />

by community groups, and mouth-watering pancakes!<br />

The sugar bush will be open during <strong>March</strong> Break and on<br />

weekends in <strong>March</strong>.www.kinsmenfanshawesugarbush.com.<br />

Restaurateur Marvin Rivas, who blends tradition and<br />

innovation in true Latin American style at his chic downtown<br />

hot-spot, Che Restobar, will reopen for lunch Monday to<br />

Friday beginning in <strong>March</strong>. Chefs Chris Lamb and Brian<br />

Honsinger will launch a new dinner menu as well as a<br />

lunch-time tapas-style menu from Monday to Wednesday.<br />

www.cherestobar.ca<br />

The YOU Made It Café is open Monday to Friday from<br />

7:30 am to 2:30pm. The café is the perfect place to have<br />

breakfast, lunch or to purchase a seasonal soup, salad,<br />

gourmet sandwich or panini to go. You can even order in<br />

advance for pick-up. Each month, YOU, through its YOU Made<br />

It Café, partners with a local guest chef for the Cornerstone<br />

Cuisine Dinner Series. The evening event features<br />

customized prix fixe dinner menus for attendees, which<br />

caters to a specific cultural cuisine. www.you.ca/cafe/<br />

We appreciate the London Wine Bar experience, which to us<br />

means you can stop by without a reservation, sit at the bar or<br />

at a table, and sample some interesting wine features by the<br />

glass, then move on to your next stop in the area—or take<br />

refuge if you really want to unwind. Inspired by traditional<br />

Parisian wine bars, Mario Jozic and Laura Del Maestro strive<br />

to make quality wine approachable while creating a relaxed and


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

hospitable atmosphere. There is a limited focus on Ontario wines<br />

but many international selections. To complement the wine<br />

selection, they feature a range of charcuterie-type boards with<br />

cured meats, locally-sourced cheeses and a variety of chocolate<br />

products created exclusively for pairing with wine by Forrat’s<br />

Chocolates. www.londonwinebar.ca<br />

Tourism London is proud to announce that the Country<br />

Music Association of Ontario (CMAO) will host regional<br />

showcase and artist seminars in London, Ontario on <strong>March</strong> 19.<br />

The CMAO will present member artists with the opportunity to<br />

perform at The Bull & Barrel Urban Saloon located in the<br />

heart of downtown London. www.london.bullandbarrel.com<br />

The Winter Indoor Farmers’ Market at Covent Garden<br />

Market Farmers’ Market, on Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm.,<br />

runs to <strong>March</strong> 19th upstairs on the mezzanine. A special<br />

Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market will operate on<br />

Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 26th 8 am to 1pm. You can expect some of<br />

your favourite farmers, bakers and crafters to be on hand.<br />

Help raise $50,000 in vital funds for Meals on Wheels<br />

London programs and services. Join in at the annual fundraiser<br />

Move for Wheels (formerly Walk for Wheels) on Friday, <strong>March</strong><br />

18, <strong>2016</strong> at Covent Garden Market. www.meals-on-wheels.ca/<br />

how-can-i-help/move-wheels-fundraiser<br />

Freshii has opened a second location downtown inside the<br />

Goodlife in Citi Plaza.<br />

A recent addition to London’s varied ethic cuisine scene,<br />

Bamyan Afghan Cuisine at 573 Richmond (just north<br />

of Albert Street) is where you can find traditional Afghan<br />

plates, including delicious, freshly barbecued, sizzling<br />

kababs with hot tandoori naans. The cuisine has similarities<br />

to Indian food. www.bamyanafghancuisine.ca<br />

Twisted Toque, the Canadian-themed restaurant in<br />

the former Brass Door premises at the Park Lane Hotel, is<br />

expected to open in May. www.twistedtoquelondon.com<br />

Linda D’Andrea tells us that Black Trumpet is enjoying a<br />

very successful partnership with the Grand Theatre’s Dining<br />

and Show program. Black Trumpet is also participating in<br />

Tastings on May 5. Tastings is a London Health Sciences<br />

Cancer Care fundraiser, sponsored by CIBC, and held at the<br />

London Hunt Club. www. tastings.lhsf.ca<br />

Chef Jason Eccles and Chef James Smith at La Casa<br />

and Chef Scott Wesseling at Black Trumpet continue<br />

to feature their 2 for $20 two-course lunch. www.<br />

lacasaristorante.com & www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

Petit Paris is proud to present the The Coop Rotisserie at the<br />

Covent Garden Market. The Coop will focus on simple rotisserie<br />

chicken dinners with several sauce and side choices that include<br />

fresh cut fries, a selection of fresh salads, daily soups, and<br />

delectable desserts baked every day by Petit Paris. The Coop will<br />

also be offering a simple but delicious breakfast menu from 8–11<br />

am Monday–Saturday and Sundays 11am–4pm. Take out, or<br />

eat local.<br />

listen local.<br />

shop local.<br />

502 adelaide st. n, london<br />

theboomboxbakeshop.com<br />

café • vegfriendly goodies • special orders<br />

Serving up authentic & tasty<br />

Creole & Cajun Cuisine<br />

London’s New Orleans Vibe<br />

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Desserts<br />

Live Music • Cooking Classes<br />

Corporate Events • Team Building<br />

OPEN<br />

DAILY<br />

519.667.2000<br />

www.bourbonstreetlondon.ca<br />

587 Oxford Street, London


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

481 Richmond St., London<br />

519.432.4092<br />

dine@garlicsoflondon.com<br />

www.garlicsoflondon.com<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb<br />

THE VILLAGE<br />

MEAT SHOP<br />

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />

Now<br />

accepting<br />

orders for<br />

Easter<br />

lamb<br />

dine in their new seating area and enjoy the real “Market Feel”<br />

that the Covent Garden Market offers.<br />

Havaris Produce has opened Sacred Earth Whole Foods,<br />

specializing in organic produce, in the premises formerly<br />

occupied by Fraumeni’s Fruits and Vegetables at the Covent<br />

Garden Market. The Havaris family business has been<br />

associated with the Market since 1912.<br />

Paul L. Smith is known for his personal touch at the Covent<br />

Garden Market, harkening back to the time when he was<br />

assisting his father with a fruit and vegetable business founded<br />

in 1880 by his grandfather Chancey Smith. Hasbeans has been<br />

roasting and shipping fresh, specialty-grade, gourmet coffee<br />

across Canada since 1969. Promoting the distinct qualities that<br />

each coffee bean develops within its’ natural environment,<br />

Hasbeans has become a market staple for their Fair Trade brew<br />

and one-of-a-kind personal touch. www.hasbeans.ca<br />

The Braywick Bistro and Amici Restaurant have closed.<br />

Treat yourself to an unforgettable culinary experience as you<br />

dine in style at the Idlewyld Inn restaurant, surrounded by<br />

the elegance of their Victorian mansion. The 70-seat dining<br />

room offers a locally-inspired menu of contemporary and<br />

traditional favourites and decadent desserts, complemented<br />

by a selection of award-winning wines, and draughts and<br />

ales on tap. Sunday Brunch. www.Idlewyld.com<br />

an experience to savour ...<br />

•<br />

2 for<br />

20<br />

Two-Course<br />

Lunch for $20<br />

Open Mon–Sat<br />

• casual fine dining<br />

• stunning<br />

architecture<br />

• world-inspired<br />

cuisine enhanced<br />

by local seasonal<br />

ingredients<br />

• private dining rooms<br />

for lunch & dinner<br />

Ideal for Small<br />

Weddings<br />

or Receptions!<br />

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR<br />

Metzger Meat Products • The Whole Pig<br />

Blanbrook Bison Farm • Lena’s Lamb<br />

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />

523 Richmond St. London www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca


Dine<br />

• Shop • Stay • Play<br />

Enjoy<br />

Ontario’s<br />

West Coast<br />

A Fresh Take on Tradition<br />

Re-Opening<br />

Weekends<br />

in APRIL<br />

Come for dinner<br />

or a romantic getaway<br />

on the Huron Shore<br />

Stylish German Cuisine<br />

Distinctive Accommodations<br />

Join Us for our<br />

Spring Wedding & Event Fair<br />

the last weekend in <strong>April</strong>!<br />

www.hessenland.com<br />

RR #2 Zurich ON<br />

Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend,<br />

1 hour from London<br />

519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736<br />

Discover<br />

Our New<br />

COMFORT<br />

MENU!<br />

Details online<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Always Closed Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com


40 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

in the garden<br />

Dreams in a Packet<br />

The Time To Plan Your Spring Garden Is NOW!<br />

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN<br />

Every gardener gets through the<br />

winter by dreaming of spring<br />

and the new growth<br />

it brings. Seeds<br />

are the gardeners’<br />

dreams in a packet.<br />

The number of<br />

available varieties<br />

gets better each<br />

season, making<br />

seed selection an<br />

exciting pursuit year<br />

after year. Ask your seed<br />

seller for advice on new<br />

varieties, or if you are unsure<br />

about what to grow.<br />

There is great interest in heirloom varieties,<br />

as these offer great flavour, proven success,<br />

and some natural resistance to problems. A<br />

common problem home gardeners face is<br />

the dreaded tomato blight. Blight is either<br />

in the ground or airborne — it just arrives<br />

on the wind — and can be very hard to<br />

control. Varieties have been discovered that<br />

were bred for tomato blight resistance (and<br />

other problems in the garden, like powdery<br />

mildew).<br />

The term breeding refers to the<br />

hybridization of plants. A hybrid is two<br />

varieties bred together (cross-pollinated)<br />

to get the best traits of both. This happens<br />

in nature all the time, as pollinators travel<br />

from flower to flower and crosspollinate.<br />

The seed from the<br />

hybridized plant will<br />

not re-produce itself.<br />

Seed companies<br />

can sell a hybrid<br />

seed by knowing<br />

the “recipe” of<br />

seed combinations<br />

to get a specific<br />

variety. Hybrids<br />

Iron Lady Tomato<br />

are not genetically<br />

modified in any way. They<br />

are usually identified on the<br />

seed packet by the notation “F1.”<br />

One new variety this season that will be<br />

exciting to try is the “Iron Lady Tomato,”<br />

developed by High Mowing Organic Seeds<br />

with Cornell University and North Carolina<br />

State University. It is a mid-sized, great<br />

flavoured tomato with impressive resistance<br />

to late blight (most common) and the stems<br />

and branches resist early blight. It is also<br />

resistant to fusarium wilt, verticillum wilt and<br />

seporia leaf spot. This is a bit technical but if<br />

you have ever had your tomatoes wiped out<br />

by blight you should try this variety!<br />

One other thing you can do to deter blight<br />

is to keep your garden clean. If you did get<br />

blight or other diseases, remove all of that<br />

"Paradise Mix" Echinacea<br />

Cerinthe<br />

“Climbing Phoenix”<br />

Nasturtium


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 41<br />

plant material and dispose of it or burn it.<br />

Do not compost it! Mulching, after planting<br />

your garden, also helps keep diseases that<br />

are in the ground, in the ground and not on<br />

your plants.<br />

An heirloom flower from Renee’s Garden<br />

Seed has been re-introduced for spring <strong>2016</strong>.<br />

The “Climbing Phoenix” Nasturtium is a<br />

split-petal, vining nasturtium dating back to<br />

the 19th century that has not been offered for<br />

sale in years. Its unique petals, shaped like<br />

little flames, are sure to be a standout. The<br />

flowers range in colour through crimsonred,<br />

rich gold, fiery orange, warm cream and<br />

soft peach, offering bright bold and pastel<br />

blossom shades. Another great reason to<br />

grow this, as with all nasturtiums, is that<br />

both leaves and flowers are edible, offering<br />

a mild peppery flavour note. They are also a<br />

prolifically flowering plant, and wonderful as<br />

a border or in containers. The vining element<br />

offers great possibilities for containers as<br />

an upright feature with some support, or<br />

left to cascade over the edge. Ontario Seed<br />

Company (OSC) also has a mounding version<br />

of the Phoenix nasturtium.<br />

Pollinator plants are very much<br />

requested, and a very popular choice to<br />

help nature maintain some balance for<br />

the bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and<br />

other pollinators. Some of the beautiful<br />

and bountiful varieties to look for are<br />

Anise Hyssop, Verbena Bonariensis and<br />

Cerinthe. Many native varieties are also great<br />

pollinators and make attractive garden plants.<br />

These include Butterfly Weed (a member<br />

of the milkweed family, with bold beautiful<br />

orange flowers), Echinacea or Cone Flower<br />

(with striking flower heads in an attractive<br />

purple), Black-eyed Susan (great black and<br />

soft orange flowers), and Bee Balm (with<br />

gorgeous colours from pale to deep pinks and<br />

rosy lavender). Pollinators are the preferred<br />

plants of birds and insects seeking a good<br />

food source that reliably produces nectar and<br />

is easily accessible for feeding.<br />

If you grow plants from seeds, . Growing<br />

from seed is rewarding, educational and<br />

economical. To grow your plants from seed<br />

start a minimum of six to eight weeks before<br />

the last frost, which usually occurs between<br />

May 24th and June 1st. After that you can<br />

safely plant out the seedlings you have<br />

nurtured, or seed directly outdoors without<br />

any worries.<br />

Check out the <strong>2016</strong> seed selections and try<br />

something new!<br />

Local Seed Suppliers<br />

Anything Grows SEED Co. • Saturdays at The Western Fair<br />

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market • anythinggrows.com<br />

Canadale Nurseries • 269 Sunset Dr, St. Thomas • canadale.ca<br />

Cozyn’s Garden Gallery • 680 Huron St, Stratford •<br />

cozynsgardengallery.ca<br />

Heeman’s • 20422 Nissouri Rd, London • heeman.ca<br />

Klomp’s Nursery & Garden Centre • 3994 Line 20, Saint<br />

Pauls Station • klomps.net<br />

Parkway Gardens • 1473 Gainsborough Rd, London •<br />

parkwaygardens.ca<br />

Van Luyk Greenhouses and Garden Centre • 1728<br />

Gore Rd, London •vanluyk.com<br />

Online Catalogue Seed Sources<br />

Floribunda Seeds • Indian River • florabundaseeds.com<br />

Hawthorn Farm Organic Seeds • Palmerston •<br />

hawthornfarm.ca<br />

Ontario Seed Co. • Waterloo • oscseeds.com<br />

Richters Herbs • Goodwood • richters.com<br />

William Dam Seeds • Dundas • williamdam.ca<br />

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own<br />

Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be<br />

found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays,<br />

and at various gardening events around the region.<br />

Tithonia<br />

Hyssop<br />

Asclepias Tuberosa<br />

(Butterfly Weed)


42 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 56 | November/December 2015<br />

wine<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

The vines, the wines, and the wine club<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

Tanya Mitchell, the winemaker at<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate winery,<br />

is about to take a small group on a<br />

“Wine Club member’s only” tour of<br />

the winery. She starts by pouring everyone<br />

a glass of bubbly. “This is our new sparkling<br />

riesling. We host quite a few weddings here<br />

and there was a demand for a sparkling<br />

wine. I hope you like it.”<br />

Tanya begins by talking about the history of<br />

the winery. In the mid-1970s, her parents Gord<br />

and Hanna Mitchell purchased a 52-acre farm<br />

on the shores of Lake Erie, near Amherstburg<br />

Ontario. Gord had an interest in wine, and<br />

in 1991 he planted a few acres of vines to see<br />

what would grow best in the farm’s Perth clay<br />

soil. He was a pioneer grape grower in the<br />

area. When others said that varietals such<br />

as cabernet franc, merlot and even cabernet<br />

sauvignon would not grow in Essex County, he<br />

knew they could. More vines were planted in<br />

the following years and about ten years after<br />

that began the planning for a winery.<br />

Tanya Mitchell gained experience by<br />

making wine in Niagara, France and<br />

Australia. In 2004 she became the youngest<br />

wine maker in Ontario when the first harvest<br />

from the family vineyard was used for the<br />

winery that her father had envisioned.<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery opened<br />

in 2006 with a large, elegant building that<br />

overlooks Lake Erie, and a production facility<br />

Amidst acres of grape vines, the winery’s<br />

elegant building overlooks Lake Erie<br />

Winemaker Tanya Mitchell<br />

surrounded by the rows of grape vines.<br />

The sudden death of Gord Mitchell in<br />

2011 shocked the local wine community. The<br />

winery has always been a family operation.<br />

From early in the morning until late in the<br />

evening Gord had been either out in the<br />

vineyard or working in the winery’s retail<br />

store. Tanya’s two brothers Stephen and Jake<br />

and her sister Marlaina have all stepped up to<br />

help fill the void left after their father’s death.<br />

As the group that Tanya is taking the tour<br />

on finishes up their sparkling wine they raise<br />

their glasses in a toast to Gord Mitchell.<br />

Tanya leads the group into the production<br />

area of the winery and offers tank samples of<br />

the 2015 rieslings that the winery will release<br />

this spring. The first wine from the steel<br />

tank will be sold at the LCBO this summer.<br />

Currently the 2014 vintage is available at the<br />

winery and at the LCBO for $13.95. Crisp<br />

acidity and just a touch of sweetness make<br />

this a very friendly, easy drinking white<br />

wine. The second riesling sampled was<br />

much sweeter. Tanya says that this will<br />

be the winery’s reserve wine.<br />

The winery has grown in production<br />

and size over the years. With the recent<br />

completion of the vineyard reception<br />

hall, Sprucewood Shores can now host<br />

weddings and other special events all<br />

year round. “There is a demand for<br />

weddings at our winery,” Tanya said.<br />

The picturesque views have caught


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

the attention of many couples, and the hall is<br />

booked well into 2017.<br />

The group tour ends back in the winery’s<br />

retail store. With the exception of a few reserve<br />

wines most bottles are affordably priced —<br />

between $13 and $18. “Making quality Ontario<br />

wine at a reasonable price was something my<br />

Dad always believed in doing,” says Tanya.<br />

Sprucewood Shores wines have become<br />

popular with many local restaurants and can<br />

often be found on the “wine by the glass”<br />

lists. “Several of our wines are available at the<br />

LCBO too,” says Tanya Mitchell. The winery<br />

recently started a wine club offering different<br />

packages of wine for home delivery, from<br />

monthly deliveries to seasonable and special<br />

occasion packages. Member benefits include:<br />

• 15% discount on non-wine merchandise<br />

• early notification of library releases<br />

(older vintages not currently available<br />

for sale)<br />

• a wine club members-only postcrushed<br />

and fermented wine seminar<br />

in the second week of January.<br />

Here are two recommendations from<br />

the Sprucewood Shores list:<br />

Sprucewood Shores Lady In Red<br />

($14.95, LCBO# 266486) — A tasty<br />

blend of 40% cabernet sauvignon,<br />

35% merlot and 25% cabernet<br />

franc. Very aromatic fresh<br />

blackberry, plum and vanilla<br />

notes. Very food friendly,<br />

pairs well with pasta and<br />

tomato based sauces,<br />

burgers and chicken wings.<br />

Sprucewood Shores Pinot<br />

Grigio ($14.95, LCBO# 426577) —<br />

Dry, crisp and clean. A delicious<br />

sipping wine. Fruity apple, lemon<br />

and pear notes. Pairs well with light<br />

white fish and seafood dishes.<br />

Starting January 25, <strong>2016</strong><br />

Second Session Late June<br />

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery<br />

7258 County Road 50 West, Harrow ON<br />

You may need to use “Amherstburg” rather than “Harrow”<br />

when entering the city location into a GPS device.<br />

519-738-9253<br />

www.sprucewoodshores.com<br />

open daily 11am–5pm<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk,<br />

taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on<br />

EssexWineReview.com


44 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

beer matters<br />

To Your Health! — Literally<br />

Some Surprising Health Benefits for Beer Drinkers<br />

By THE MALT MONK<br />

Have you been feeling guilty about<br />

your craft beer obsession? You<br />

say your significant other would<br />

prefer you drink something<br />

“healthier.” Well, shed<br />

your guilt, brethren of<br />

the brew. Contrary to<br />

popular misconceptions,<br />

all-natural beer truly is the<br />

miracle food — health in<br />

a glass.<br />

New studies are demonstrating<br />

that consuming<br />

fresh, all-natural beer can<br />

yield surprising health<br />

benefits. Just remember,<br />

we’re talking moderate<br />

consumption (one or two<br />

pints a day before or with<br />

a healthy meal). Here are<br />

some study results that<br />

may change your perceptions of your favourite<br />

beverage.<br />

Cancer: Many studies have identified<br />

xanthohumol as a powerful anti-cancer agent<br />

which aids in ridding your system of cancerrelated<br />

protein compounds. Fortunately for<br />

craft beer acolytes, our beer contains this<br />

important antioxidant in significant quantities.<br />

The conclusion of these studies was that<br />

moderate beer drinking reduces certain<br />

cancer-causing enzymes — specifically, those<br />

linked to prostate and breast cancer.<br />

Dementia: Your<br />

hunch may be right!<br />

Maybe you are smarter<br />

after a few pints. The<br />

silicon content in beer<br />

is believed to guard the<br />

brain against metallic<br />

toxicity, particularly<br />

aluminum. A high level<br />

of aluminum in the brain<br />

is said to be one of the<br />

causes of Alzheimer’s.<br />

Loyola University School<br />

of Medicine researchers<br />

reviewed several recent<br />

studies and concluded<br />

that moderate beer drinkers were less likely<br />

to develop different forms of dementia<br />

and perceptual disablement — including<br />

Alzheimer’s. So drink smart and stay away<br />

from aluminum cans — have a crafted draft<br />

pint in a glass.<br />

Diabetes: A Harvard study found there<br />

was a 25% less risk of developing type 2<br />

One of 2014’s<br />

TOP 10<br />

Beer Bars<br />

in Canada


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 45<br />

diabetes in beer tipplers compared to nonimbibers.<br />

Apparently darker unfiltered beers<br />

are a good source of soluble fiber, which<br />

plays an active role in treating the onset<br />

of diabetes. Also, an increase in insulin<br />

sensitivity is triggered by the lighter alcohol<br />

content in beer. Hops in beer contain<br />

isohumulones, a natural form of insulin<br />

which helps treat diabetes.<br />

Kidney Stones: You can reduce your<br />

risk of kidney stones by an amazing 40% by<br />

tipping a pint or two daily, according to a<br />

recent Finnish study which concluded that<br />

beer’s high content of pure water helps flush<br />

the kidneys of toxins. The alpha acids from<br />

hops prevented kidney stones while beer’s<br />

silicon content prevents the loss of bone<br />

calcium (a leading cause of kidney stones).<br />

Heart Disease: Italy’s Fondazion di<br />

Ricerca e Cura found that people who drank<br />

a pint of beer daily reduced their chance<br />

of heart disease by 31%. Beer’s natural<br />

antioxidants (phenols) seem to be an agent<br />

in healthy heart function.<br />

Stroke: The benefits of beer just keep<br />

pouring. The American Stroke Association<br />

studies state there is an incredible 50%<br />

reduction in stroke risk for moderate beer<br />

drinkers compared to non-drinkers. The<br />

Harvard School of Public Health deduced<br />

that moderate beer intake prevents the blood<br />

clots which are the leading cause of stroke.<br />

Bone Density: Chemical analysis of beer<br />

reveals it contains high levels of silicon — an<br />

element vital to bone health. A Tufts University<br />

study revealed that regular beer consumption<br />

gave older beer tipplers higher rates of bone<br />

density than those who did not drink beer. This<br />

was attributed to the silicon content in beer.<br />

Cholesterol: If you’re looking for a fun<br />

way to improve your cholesterol level,<br />

quaffing a crafted pint daily could provide<br />

the motivation. The grains used in the<br />

brewing of craft beer contain soluble fibers<br />

known as beta-glucans. Studies have shown<br />

this natural compound to be instrumental in<br />

lowering cholesterol levels.<br />

Blood Pressure: Women may be<br />

interested to find out that their favourite<br />

beverage factors into managing proper<br />

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46 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

blood pressure levels. Another Harvard<br />

study has found that female beer tipplers<br />

aged 25 to 40 had significantly less risk of<br />

developing high blood pressure conditions<br />

compared to women who drank wine or<br />

other alcoholic beverages.<br />

Acne: Recent studies have confirmed that<br />

beer sediment (brewer’s yeast) can reduce/<br />

improve acne by slowing down sebum<br />

production and killing off the bacteria that<br />

triggers acne. This component of beer, the<br />

inactive (flocculated) brewing yeast, helps<br />

maintain a balanced pH level in the skin.<br />

Malt Monk Recommendations<br />

I don’t know how you’ve been staving off the<br />

winter doldrums, but at my favourite craft beer<br />

bistro we have seen a lot of new European<br />

imports making an appearance on the<br />

tap handle forest. Of course there are<br />

always the benchmark Euro brews but<br />

recently some lesser known premium<br />

Euro brewers have been distributing<br />

their bistro-grade draft beers<br />

through import agents and The<br />

Beer Store. These beers are<br />

available in new smaller capacity<br />

disposable draft kegs for bars,<br />

restaurants, clubs or parties. Here are my<br />

impressions of some that I have tasted in the<br />

last few weeks.<br />

Jopen Hoppenbier (available in kegs from<br />

The Beer Store) — A truly unique and<br />

remarkable brew from this Haarlem<br />

Netherlands craft brewer which defies<br />

categorization. Its claims to fame are<br />

the use of three grains (barley, wheat<br />

and oats) in brewing, and being<br />

double hopped with Hallertau<br />

hops. The hazy golden brew starts<br />

at the nose with a demure fresh<br />

fragrance of mild fruit aromas and spicy<br />

bay leaf tones. The palate receives substantial<br />

body and maltiness for such a crisp hoppy<br />

beer, with a spicy clove and bay leaf under<br />

tone. Crisp dry bitter finish — a wonderful<br />

twist on a Belgian golden ale and a must try.<br />

Ottakringer Wiener Original (Beer<br />

Store kegs available) — An actual<br />

Vienna lager from Vienna of all<br />

places — this is not exactly the<br />

traditional red lager but a modern<br />

interpretation of Anton Dreher’s<br />

elegant soft lager. It is made with<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Dandruff: Your grandmother might have<br />

known that beer is a natural treatment<br />

for dandruff. What they probably didn’t<br />

know was that this was because of the high<br />

vitamin B content in beer from yeast. Rinse<br />

your hair with a pint of beer regularly —<br />

it’ll make your hair soft and shiny. But the<br />

pungent scent may attract bar flies.<br />

The Final Word: These studies were<br />

conducted with subjects who moderately<br />

consume pure adjunct-free beer. Enjoy<br />

those guiltless pints — they’re<br />

good fer ya!<br />

traditional Viennese pale<br />

malt and red melanoidin malt,<br />

and premium grade Saaz hops.<br />

The results are a brew with eyecatching<br />

amber-orange colour and<br />

an aroma and taste which reveal a<br />

defined nutty and elegant malt tone.<br />

Opulent malting with a dry finish<br />

leaving a distinct, yet smooth bitterness<br />

on the palate. This highly drinkable<br />

creation would pair well with<br />

traditional Viennese cuisine.<br />

Åbro Bryggmästarens<br />

Premium Gold (lcbo #433508<br />

in cans, or on tap) — This<br />

seems at first blush to be an<br />

undistinguished Euro lager — but<br />

looks can deceive. I recommend<br />

the kegged version as it seemed<br />

to me to taste better (fresher) on<br />

tap. What sets this strong Swedish<br />

golden lager apart is that it’s made<br />

by one of the last independent family<br />

breweries in Sweden in a traditional<br />

eight-stage process, which includes a<br />

substantial cold aging cycle. The<br />

result is a surprisingly rounded,<br />

mellow, malty golden lager<br />

which displays balance,<br />

rich flavour and great<br />

drinkabilty — pretty much<br />

everything you could want in<br />

a bistro lager.<br />

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R.<br />

Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer<br />

culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at<br />

maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 47<br />

on the boards<br />

The Band Play’s On<br />

Glenn Grainger’s Manuel Premieres This Spring<br />

By RICK YOUNG<br />

Playwright Glenn Grainger has<br />

spent the last seven years of his life<br />

researching and drafting scripts<br />

for his play, Manuel, the story of<br />

Richard Manuel, a founding member of the<br />

seminal North American rock/roots group<br />

The Band, as told through the eyes of Al<br />

Manuel, his last remaining brother.<br />

Working alongside Grainger at various<br />

points for the past five years has been<br />

award-winning director John Pacheco,<br />

who has been getting ready for production<br />

and casting roles for its characters. This<br />

spring their partnership will culminate<br />

with the world premiere of Manuel, a<br />

joint production of Blues Canvas Concert<br />

Productions and Pacheco Theatre, at<br />

Western University’s Paul Davenport Theatre<br />

from <strong>April</strong> 26 to May 1.<br />

For the uninitiated, The Band evolved<br />

out of The Hawks, the stellar back-up band<br />

that accompanied Canadian Music Hall of<br />

Fame member Rompin’ Ronnie Hawkins, a<br />

transplanted Arkansas rockabilly musician<br />

who found fame and fortune in his adopted<br />

country in the late 1950s and early 1960s.<br />

The original line-up consisted of<br />

American drummer Levon Helm and<br />

Canadians Robbie Robertson on guitar,<br />

Garth Hudson on keyboards, Rick Danko<br />

on bass,<br />

and Richard<br />

Manuel —<br />

all of whom<br />

hailed from<br />

southwestern<br />

Ontario.<br />

After being<br />

chosen to<br />

accompany<br />

Bob Dylan on<br />

his “electric”<br />

tours in 1965<br />

and 1966, the<br />

group moved to New York and released its<br />

critically-acclaimed debut album Music from<br />

Big Pink in 1968. The Band would record 10<br />

studio albums, ending its run as the original<br />

configuration in 1976 with The Last Waltz<br />

farewell concert, immortalized in the Martin<br />

Scorsese documentary film. The group<br />

recommenced touring without Robertson in<br />

1983, but finished with the untimely suicide of<br />

founding member Richard Manuel in 1986.<br />

I spoke with playwright Glenn Grainger and<br />

director John Pacheco about the play, about<br />

Richard Manuel, rock and roll, the challenges<br />

of bringing Manuel’s life to the stage, and<br />

what audiences can expect. What follows is an<br />

abridged version of that discussion.<br />

The Band, on the Ed Sullivan Show, on Nov. 2, 1969<br />

Richard Manuel, pianist, drummer and vocalist


48 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Who was Richard Manuel, and why does he merit a<br />

play written about him?<br />

Glenn Grainger (GG) — Richard Manuel was<br />

an immense talent as a musician, songwriter<br />

and especially as a soulful<br />

vocalist. To this point, there<br />

has been a bewildering lack<br />

of canonization of his talent<br />

through storytelling. This<br />

play aims to kick open the<br />

door. The play focuses on<br />

Richard’s talent and also the<br />

relationship he had with his<br />

last remaining brother Al. Al<br />

was a teacher at my middle<br />

school in Elmira, Ontario.<br />

I knew the family quite<br />

well and was close friends<br />

with one of Al’s daughters.<br />

I have been a fan of The<br />

Band since my mid-teens.<br />

Since beginning the process<br />

of writing this play, I have<br />

got to know the extended<br />

members of the family,<br />

including Richard’s son.<br />

Why have you chosen to tell the story through the<br />

eyes of Al Manuel?<br />

GG — Fans of The Band can find out information<br />

about Richard’s public life quite<br />

readily via the internet, articles, and videos.<br />

There has been a good amount of information<br />

about his struggle<br />

with alcohol and<br />

other substances and<br />

his subsequent suicide.<br />

What is not well<br />

known to the public is<br />

the impact Richard’s<br />

struggles had on the<br />

family and in particular<br />

Al. So this is a once<br />

private family story<br />

that Al has had the<br />

courage to make public.<br />

Al understands the<br />

potential value this<br />

story will have to break down stigma and<br />

help others in finding the strength to talk<br />

about important issues that affect all of us.<br />

Al also has light and funny memories of his<br />

relationship with Richard that are included<br />

in the play. As Richard’s last remaining<br />

brother, Al is also one of the last remaining<br />

family connections to these stories. Al also<br />

Playwright Glenn Grainger<br />

Richard Manuel and Bob Dylan, circa 1967<br />

connects us to a time in our local history, as<br />

the Manuel family was from Stratford.<br />

Is this play a cautionary tale about fame and fortune<br />

and life on the road as a musician?<br />

GG — More than just a<br />

cautionary tale, the play<br />

is about resolve and<br />

strength of the human<br />

spirit. What interested<br />

me as a writer and as<br />

someone who works in<br />

mental health, are the<br />

ways in which a brother<br />

finds strength to carry on<br />

after tragedy. Al’s life is<br />

an inspiring testament to<br />

how one keeps going. It is<br />

also a chronicle of how he<br />

has come to understand<br />

the way in which Richard<br />

lived and died.<br />

Has there been any<br />

involvement by the surviving<br />

members of The Band?<br />

GG — I have had two occasions<br />

to speak with Garth Hudson and I told<br />

him about the play. Garth was quite helpful<br />

in sharing background information related to<br />

Richard’s pure joy of making music. I have also<br />

spoken with Ronnie Hawkins. Robbie Robertson<br />

keeps a lower, more private profile. I have<br />

been provided with<br />

insights from long<br />

time cohorts about<br />

the incredible, positive<br />

emotional impact<br />

of Richard Manuel’s<br />

voice and music.<br />

Information about<br />

The Band in the play<br />

is provided only to<br />

give context and as a<br />

backdrop to the main<br />

storyline. Our play is<br />

about blood brothers.<br />

Why has Pacheco<br />

Theatre chosen this particular play for its Spring <strong>2016</strong><br />

production? Does the fact that this is the play’s world<br />

premiere bring any added pressure to this series of<br />

performances?<br />

John Pacheco (JP) — When Glenn and I<br />

met through a mutual friend, Mike Froome,<br />

about five years ago, the script was still in<br />

its early stages and at that time, Glenn and


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 49<br />

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50 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

I, along with several London actors did a<br />

read-through of that draft. Glenn was hoping<br />

to stage the play in 2012, but the timing just<br />

wasn’t right. After the<br />

first read-through, Glenn<br />

made more changes, thus<br />

creating our annual readthrough<br />

with different<br />

actors over the last four<br />

years. Each draft drew us<br />

closer to where we are<br />

today. While going through<br />

the rewrites, we wanted to<br />

time the opening of Manuel<br />

with <strong>2016</strong>, as it’s the 30th<br />

anniversary of Richard’s<br />

death on <strong>March</strong> 4.<br />

I think presenting a<br />

play with Richard as the<br />

subject matter already<br />

comes with its own<br />

pressure to present the<br />

facts well, knowing how<br />

sensitive the material<br />

is and how well loved<br />

Richard and The Band<br />

are. So, yes, it being a world premiere does<br />

add pressure, and much like Glenn said,<br />

“This play aims to kick open the door.”<br />

John, what can you tell me about casting for Manuel?<br />

JP — Casting was an ongoing process for<br />

Manuel during our five-year collaboration.<br />

The play has 17 cast members, including some<br />

familiar names and newcomers. John Garlicki<br />

plays Al Manuel, while Stephen Ingram<br />

captures the essence of Richard Manuel.<br />

GG — The five-piece band<br />

Driftwood was formed<br />

specifically to provide<br />

the music for Manuel.<br />

Band members are<br />

Stephen Ingram, Brandon<br />

McHugh, Greg Williams,<br />

Jeff Lupker, and Igor Saika.<br />

Why is the play being staged at<br />

the Western University campus, as<br />

opposed to Pacheco Theatre’s usual<br />

location, McManus Theatre?<br />

GG — The 400 seat Paul<br />

Davenport Theatre was chosen<br />

as it lends itself very well to the production<br />

of this particular play. Its facilities are simply<br />

outstanding.<br />

What else should our readers know about Manuel?<br />

GG — As well as dramatic through dialogue,<br />

the play is quite lively. Audience members<br />

should arrive early as<br />

the doors open an hour<br />

before each performance<br />

and live music will be<br />

played by Driftwood<br />

before each performance.<br />

Part of the proceeds<br />

of the play will go to<br />

support The Richard G.<br />

Manuel Music Award<br />

which goes to a welldeserving<br />

performance<br />

music student at the Don<br />

Wright Faculty of Music<br />

at Western University.<br />

Terry Danko, the play’s<br />

Music Consultant and<br />

brother of Rick Danko,<br />

is a special guy and a<br />

special musician whose<br />

talent speaks for itself.<br />

Director John Pacheco He is intimately familiar<br />

with the music of the<br />

play having spent time in his brother Rick<br />

Danko’s band and having spent many<br />

years with Ronnie Hawkins. Terry was also<br />

present at Shangri La music studios in<br />

Malibu during the mid-’70s when The Band<br />

recorded there. He has performed on stage<br />

with Levon Helm and Garth Hudson. He<br />

also performed gigs with Richard Manuel<br />

in the late ’70s and early ’80s. It’s an honour<br />

to have him help our band<br />

Driftwood whose members<br />

are all proficient musicians<br />

themselves. Terry’s insight<br />

and help is invaluable. The<br />

guys have truly appreciated<br />

having him with us.<br />

MANUEL, a joint production of<br />

BLUES CANVAS CONCERT<br />

PRODUCTIONS and<br />

PACHECO THEATRE, plays<br />

at Western University’s Paul<br />

Davenport Theatre from <strong>April</strong> 26 to May<br />

1. Tickets are available through the Grand Theatre Box<br />

Office at grandtheatre.com, 519-672-8800.<br />

RICK YOUNG is a regular contributor to eatdrink. .


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

YEARS<br />

RESEARCH<br />

and<br />

FAMILY<br />

SUPPORT<br />

1996 - <strong>2016</strong>


52 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

the classical beat<br />

Spring Strings<br />

By NICOLE LAIDLER<br />

The Jeffery Concerts begin the busy<br />

spring season when the Toronto<br />

Symphony Orchestra Chamber<br />

Soloists perform a program of<br />

French music on <strong>March</strong> 19.<br />

Comprised of the TSO’s principal musicians<br />

— Jonathan Crow, violin; Teng Li, viola;<br />

Joseph Johnson, cello;<br />

Nora Schulman, flute; and<br />

Heidi Van Hoese Gorton,<br />

harp — the combination of<br />

winds, strings and harp give<br />

the ensemble the flexibility<br />

to present a wide range of<br />

rarely performed repertoire,<br />

along with some of the best<br />

loved works in the chamber<br />

music literature.<br />

Highlights of the<br />

Saturday night concert<br />

include Debussy’s popular<br />

Sonata for Flute, Violin<br />

and Harp, as well as the<br />

lesser-known Fantasie<br />

for Violin and Harp by<br />

Saint-Saëns. “I think our<br />

audience will enjoy the<br />

diversity of this program, as well as being<br />

able to hear the harp both solo and as an<br />

accompanying instrument,” says Jeffery<br />

Concerts board member Ingrid Crozman.<br />

On <strong>April</strong> 8, the chamber music series<br />

marks the half-way point in its presentation<br />

of the complete Beethoven string quartets.<br />

“We are pleased to have the Pacifica<br />

Quartet back to perform,” says Crozman,<br />

adding that the final three all-Beethoven<br />

concerts will take place next season. “The<br />

concept has been very well received.<br />

We’ve created a good buzz about it,” she<br />

adds. “The quartets were written during<br />

different creative periods of his life, so even<br />

though it’s a whole concert of Beethoven it<br />

remains interesting because you hear his<br />

development as a composer.”<br />

Music by a less-familiar composer<br />

rounds out the month, when soprano<br />

Performing Janáček’s The Diary of One Who<br />

Disappeared are, clockwise from the left,<br />

soprano Krisztina Szabó, tenor Benjamin<br />

Butterfield and pianist Arthur Rowe<br />

Krisztina Szabó, tenor Benjamin Butterfield<br />

and pianist Arthur Rowe join forces <strong>April</strong><br />

30 for Janáček’s The Diary of One Who<br />

Disappeared. The rarely-performed song<br />

cycle, written between 1917 and 1919, tells<br />

the story of a love affair between a young<br />

peasant boy and a gypsy. Szabó, Butterfield<br />

and Rowe performed<br />

the work together in<br />

Dallas in 2014 to rave<br />

reviews, and Crozman<br />

says The Jeffery Concerts<br />

are delighted to bring<br />

them together again for<br />

a repeat performance in<br />

London.<br />

All concerts take place<br />

at Wolf Performance Hall.<br />

www.jefferyconcerts.com<br />

The Karen Schuessler<br />

Singers shine the<br />

spotlight on some homegrown<br />

talent with London<br />

Composers Exposed!,<br />

<strong>April</strong> 2 at Wesley-Knox<br />

United Church.<br />

KSS director Karen Schuessler says<br />

audiences are often fearful of instrumental<br />

music written by living composers. “But in<br />

the choral world — especially in Canada —<br />

living composers are honoured and enjoyed.<br />

We wanted to showcase the composers<br />

who live among us, who can describe their<br />

creative process and thereby celebrate our<br />

concert theme of creativity,” she continues.<br />

The program includes music by Bert<br />

Van Der Hoek, Stephen Holowitz, Kevin<br />

White, Matthew Emery, Donald Cook, Jeff<br />

Christmas, Jeff Smallman, Steven Hardy,<br />

and Brian Ratcliffe, and includes several<br />

compositions commissioned by KSS.<br />

“We know that London is a Canadian<br />

hot bed for choirs and theatre groups,”<br />

Schuessler says. “And we would like to get<br />

the idea going that London is a true creative<br />

city.” www.kssingers.com


Arthur Rowe<br />

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR<br />

2015–<strong>2016</strong><br />

All concerts at 8 pm<br />

at Wolf Performance Hall<br />

251 Dundas, London<br />

All ticket sales through<br />

Grand Theatre Box Office<br />

519.672.8800<br />

grandtheatre.com<br />

Special thanks to<br />

www.jefferyconcerts.com<br />

Saturday<br />

<strong>March</strong> 19, <strong>2016</strong><br />

Toronto<br />

Symphony Orchestra<br />

Chamber<br />

Soloists<br />

Saint-Saëns: Le Cygne (The Swan)<br />

Debussy: Sonata for Flute, Viola & Harp<br />

Saint-Saëns: Fantasie for Violin and Harp<br />

Ravel: Pavane pour une infante défunte<br />

Friday<br />

<strong>April</strong> 8, <strong>2016</strong><br />

Pacifica Quartet<br />

SECOND ALL-BEETHOVEN CONCERT<br />

Saturday<br />

<strong>April</strong> 30, <strong>2016</strong><br />

Janáček:<br />

A rarely performed song cycle<br />

Quartet in C minor, Op. 18, No. 4 The Diary of One Who Disappeared<br />

Quartet in B-Flat Major, Op. 18, No. 6<br />

Krisztina Szabó, soprano<br />

Quartet in F Major, Op. 59, No. 1<br />

Benjamin Butterfield, tenor<br />

Arthur Rowe, piano<br />

London’s own The Light of East Ensemble<br />

celebrates ten years of music-making, <strong>April</strong><br />

16 at Aeolian Hall.<br />

The group, founded by Panayiotis<br />

Giannarapis in 2006, performs an<br />

extensive repertoire that encompasses<br />

traditional, folk, classical Arabic,<br />

Sephardic, and Greek rembetika, as well<br />

as 20th century urban music from the<br />

Near and Middle East.<br />

“Londoners have embraced our<br />

music from day one because it’s very<br />

nostalgic,” says Giannarapis. Expanding<br />

into other musical cultures over the past<br />

decade has kept the group’s repertoire<br />

fresh and helped to attract new<br />

audiences, he adds.<br />

The concert also marks the official<br />

launch of LOEE’s second CD Live at<br />

the Aeolian, released by Sunfest and funded<br />

through the London Arts Council.<br />

“I am surprised at how quickly 10 years<br />

have passed,” Giannarapis says. “I didn’t<br />

expect such longevity or popular success.”<br />

www.lightofeastensemble.com<br />

Music lovers have the chance to hear<br />

London’s newest classical ensemble on <strong>April</strong><br />

30, when Magisterra Solosits make their local<br />

debut at Windermere on the Mount Chapel.<br />

The 12-member ensemble is the creation<br />

of acclaimed violinist and Western<br />

University professor Annette-Barbara<br />

Vogel. “For years now I have been dreaming<br />

of a professional<br />

group that would<br />

bridge a gap in the<br />

musical landscape of<br />

Canada,” says Vogel.<br />

“I wanted to form<br />

something that would<br />

provide a musical<br />

launching pad for<br />

talented graduates of<br />

Canadian universities<br />

and conservatories.<br />

Something<br />

Annette-Barbara Vogel flexible in size and<br />

instrumentation,<br />

championing an eclectic and exciting<br />

repertoire, old and new.”<br />

The current roster includes musicians<br />

from Western University’s Don Wright<br />

Faculty of Music, Wilfrid Laurier University,<br />

University of Ottawa and Toronto’s Glenn<br />

Gould School. “Everyone is based around<br />

London and the GTA, which makes it<br />

feasible to gather in one place for rehearsal,”<br />

explains Magisterra Solosits administrative<br />

coordinator Mikela Witjes.<br />

A second concert will take<br />

place in Guelph on May 8,<br />

while a tour of Brazil and<br />

local outreach and education<br />

concerts are also in the<br />

works. www.magisterra.co<br />

The Light of East Ensemble<br />

NICOLE LAIDLER has been writing<br />

about the London classical music scene<br />

for over a decade. Find out what else she’s<br />

been up to at www.spilledink.ca


54 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

various musical notes<br />

Jam Nights and Upcoming Concerts<br />

By RICK YOUNG<br />

There’s a lot going on in London<br />

and area as we come into spring.<br />

A recent trend in London’s club<br />

scene has been the emergence<br />

of open mic and jam nights. It’s a great<br />

evening out, whether you’re in the<br />

audience, or on the stage. Our part of the<br />

country produces a lot of musical talent —<br />

get out there and discover it, or show it off!<br />

The grand-daddy of them all, the<br />

London Music Club’s long-running<br />

Electric Jam Night, runs every Thursday<br />

at the Colbourne Street venue. Hosted<br />

by guitarist Rick Joyce, this jam leans<br />

towards electric blues. It attracts some of<br />

the region’s most seasoned and talented<br />

musicians, and welcomes aspiring players.<br />

The LMC is also home to a monthly Irish<br />

ceili, with live music with The London Irish<br />

Folk Club, and an open stage.<br />

Over at the Eastside Bar and Grill on Hamilton<br />

Road, Allstage Music’s Jim McCormick<br />

and his wife Barb Whitney host the Allstage<br />

Eastside Bar<br />

Wednesday<br />

Night Jam<br />

every week.<br />

Backed by<br />

The After<br />

Eight Band, local musicians and bands of all<br />

stripes and ages can test out their chops on a<br />

full backline provided by Bellone’s Music. The<br />

Jam goes from 8pm to midnight.<br />

Local troubadour Stu Warrington hosts<br />

Stu’s Open Mic Jam every Monday at The<br />

Grinning Gator on Richmond Street. The<br />

Grinning Gator also presents an ongoing<br />

series, The Gator Girls Gala, featuring some<br />

of the area’s talented female performers<br />

such as Nikki James, Saidat Abrai and<br />

Amanda Underhill.<br />

If your musical<br />

tastes lean towards<br />

country, drop in at the<br />

Bull & Barrel Urban<br />

Saloon on Talbot<br />

Street for Tuesday<br />

Open Mic Nights. The<br />

popular eatery also<br />

features many local<br />

country artists, and often ties in with events<br />

being held at Budweiser Gardens.<br />

London’s longest running free music festival,<br />

Home Country Music & Arts Festival,<br />

holds its annual fundraiser concert on <strong>March</strong><br />

12 at the Former First Spiritualist Church on<br />

Rectory Street. Headliner Prince<br />

Marty Kolls<br />

Edward<br />

Islandbased<br />

musical<br />

powerhouse<br />

Irish Mythen will be joined by local singer/<br />

songwriter Marty Kolls. Tickets are $20 in<br />

advance (plus service charges) or $25 at the<br />

door (subject to availability). Advance tickets<br />

can be purchased online at EventBrite.com.<br />

London’s award-winning Aeolian Hall<br />

in the city’s Old East Village has a packed<br />

schedule for<br />

<strong>March</strong> and<br />

<strong>April</strong>, beginning<br />

with<br />

Sunfest’s presentation of The Outside Track


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

on <strong>March</strong> 4, and The Lula All Stars on <strong>March</strong><br />

18. David Myles returns on <strong>March</strong> 11, followed<br />

by Grammy Award-winner Judy Collins<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 13, with special guest Garnet<br />

Rogers.<br />

Sunfest<br />

presents<br />

Barbra<br />

Lica on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 2, and<br />

Barbra<br />

Lica<br />

Johnny<br />

Clegg on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 6.<br />

Frank D’Angelo and his 15-piece band take the<br />

stage on <strong>April</strong> 15. The Light of East Ensemble<br />

performs on <strong>April</strong> 16 and Nobuntu on <strong>April</strong><br />

30. The ever-popular<br />

Emm Gryner performs<br />

at the Hall on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 23 with special<br />

guest Sarah Smith.<br />

Then Joel Plaskett<br />

Emergency gives two<br />

evening performances,<br />

<strong>April</strong> 27 and<br />

<strong>April</strong> 28.<br />

Beatles fans<br />

can get their fix<br />

Emm<br />

with two events at<br />

Gryner<br />

Centennial Hall.<br />

First up is Rain: A Tribute to The Beatles on<br />

<strong>March</strong> 13, and then Classic Albums Live! The<br />

Beatles Sgt. Pepper on <strong>April</strong> 26.<br />

The London Music Hall presents The<br />

Sheepdogs on <strong>March</strong> 4, The Trews on <strong>March</strong><br />

12, Sean Paul on <strong>March</strong> 18, and Twenty One<br />

Pilots on <strong>April</strong> 2.<br />

Over at the London Music Club, Craig<br />

Cardiff takes the stage on <strong>March</strong> 26 followed<br />

by David Francey on <strong>April</strong> 23.<br />

The ever-popular Wish<br />

You Were Here Pink Floyd<br />

Tribute fundraiser returns<br />

to the Grand Theatre on<br />

Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 2, with<br />

proceeds benefiting<br />

prostate cancer research.<br />

Some of London’s finest<br />

musicians join forces<br />

for this annual much<br />

anticipated performance. Tickets are available<br />

through The Grand’s box office.<br />

All in all, it’s shaping up to be a very<br />

musical early spring.<br />

LONDON ARTISTS’<br />

STUDIO TOUR<br />

FRI <strong>April</strong> 15 7 to 9:30 p.m.<br />

SAT <strong>April</strong> 16 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />

SUN <strong>April</strong> 17 noon to 5 p.m.<br />

Brochures available at Museum London,<br />

Library Branches or online at<br />

www.londonstudiotour.ca<br />

Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743<br />

Series Sponsor<br />

www.sunfest.on.ca<br />

World Music & Jazz Series 2015 - 16<br />

THE OUTSIDE TRACK (Scotland/Ireland/Canada) - Friday, <strong>March</strong> 4<br />

DELHI 2 DUBLIN - Wednesday, <strong>March</strong> 16 @ London Music Hall<br />

LULA ALL STARS “Big Salsa Party” - Friday, <strong>March</strong> 18<br />

BARBRA LICA - Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 2<br />

JOHNNY CLEGG ( South Africa) - Wednesday, <strong>April</strong> 6<br />

LIGHT OF EAST ENSEMBLE - “CD Release Concert” - Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 16<br />

NOBUNTU (Zimbabwe) - Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 30<br />

DE TEMPS ANTAN - Saturday, May 7<br />

For announcements of concerts & TD Sunfest ’16 artists visit sunfest.on.ca<br />

All Concerts ~Doors at 7:00 pm ~Concert at 8:00 pm<br />

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian<br />

Hall , 795 Dundas St ., London<br />

Tickets available at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall Box Office (519-672-1967),<br />

The Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca, aeolianhall.ca, or ticketscene.ca<br />

/SunfestCanada @CanadaSunfest /canadasunfest<br />

RICK YOUNG is a regular contributor to eatdrink.


56 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

books<br />

The School of<br />

Sophisticated Drinking<br />

An Intoxicating History of Seven Spirits<br />

by Kerstin Ehmer & Beate Hinderman<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Brandy, vodka, whiskey, rum, tequila,<br />

gin, Champagne — a distinguished<br />

list that Kerstin Ehmer and Beate<br />

Hinderman have deemed worthy<br />

of higher education in their book, The School<br />

of Sophisticated Drinking: An Intoxicating<br />

History of Seven Spirits (Greystone, 2015,<br />

$22.95). From this team of bartenders-turnedauthors<br />

we learn about the cultural, political,<br />

economic, and social settings from which<br />

these famous spirits were born.<br />

Canadian drinking legend Kevin Brauch<br />

endorses the book in a Foreword, admitting<br />

he did not like school much, but is capable<br />

of earning good grades at an institution<br />

involving alcohol. Brauch spent time at<br />

Victoria Bar in Germany where Ehmer and<br />

Hinderman started a lecture series in 2003.<br />

The content of those lectures evolved into<br />

this book as the authors realized that “every<br />

shift in power, every war, every technical<br />

innovation left an impression on the<br />

appearance and taste of alcohol brands up<br />

to their present state.”<br />

This is the kind of book that makes you<br />

appear knowledgeable when bumping<br />

elbows at a bar or mingling at a cocktail<br />

party. Each spirit is linked to historical<br />

stories of the region where it originated;<br />

even the authors’ bar resides in a part of<br />

Authors Kerstin Ehmer<br />

and Beate Hinderman<br />

Berlin that<br />

was literally<br />

in the shadow<br />

of the Berlin Wall. The first<br />

semester introduces us to West Berlin’s<br />

mayor during the Cold War, Willy Brandt<br />

(nicknamed Brandy Willy for his love of the<br />

drink distilled from white wine), who made<br />

brandy the best-selling spirit in Germany.<br />

Also with political connections, vodka<br />

gained international attention with Boris<br />

Yeltsin’s prowess for matching global<br />

leadership with flagrant drinking. In the 1980s<br />

vodka garnered a better reputation with the<br />

hip Absolut brand from Sweden that played<br />

against its Communist reputation, keeping<br />

drinks like James Bond’s martini fashionable.<br />

The thirteen years of American Prohibition<br />

had a hand in the fate of all alcohol, but<br />

vodka was easily available in the mid-1930s<br />

as bootleggers kept the spirits flowing with a<br />

successful influx to the USA.<br />

Many American whiskeys originated<br />

before Prohibition. German immigrant<br />

Jakob Bohm started a whisky business in<br />

1795 which six generations later adopted<br />

the name of one of his heirs, Jim Beam.<br />

Lynchburg, Tennessee was home to Jack<br />

Daniels’ distillery, but after Prohibition<br />

the county where Lynchburg is located<br />

was never reinstated to allow alcohol<br />

consumption — you can buy it from the<br />

distillery, but not drink it there.<br />

Moving from America to the tropics, rum<br />

has a long-standing association with pirates<br />

(including Captain Morgan who was a real<br />

17th century buccaneer) but its history<br />

extends beyond barrels of it being integral to<br />

swashbuckling, and the authors remind us<br />

that Havana Club coming out of Cuba shows<br />

us how rum is “inextricably linked to the


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

errors and terrors of worldwide political and<br />

commercial relations.”<br />

In Mexican lore, the real-life Robin Hood<br />

hero, Pancho Villa, allied himself with<br />

bottles of tequila to fuel socialist revolutions.<br />

The demand for tequila started outrunning<br />

its supply with a rise in popularity during the<br />

1968 Summer Olympics hosted by Mexico;<br />

this resulted in mass production inferior to<br />

the blue agave tradition. Recent interest in<br />

premium brands has returned tequila to a<br />

status on par with cognac and scotch.<br />

With the rough-and-tumble reputations<br />

of whiskey in the West, rum on highseas<br />

adventures, and tequila in Mexican<br />

insurrections, the lesson on gin reminds us<br />

of its more elegant status, especially given its<br />

role in the Martini, which the authors write, “is<br />

certainly one of the most distinguished ways to<br />

intoxication.” Gin did have its dark side during<br />

the Gin Craze of London in the early 1700s<br />

when it was drunk by the masses, causing<br />

numerous household and societal problems.<br />

Even though not typically considered a<br />

spirit, the authors include Champagne as a<br />

drink with an elegant and illustrious history.<br />

First produced in France, it had gained a<br />

global reputation by 1730 and “from London<br />

to Vienna and Berlin to Madrid, the little<br />

bubbles fizzed at all the finest addresses of<br />

the capitals.” Most famous from the peaceful<br />

monastery of the Benedictine monk, Dom<br />

Perignon, Champagne also had violent<br />

connections with both World Wars as many<br />

grape-growing areas were decimated by<br />

war-torn destruction.<br />

During the original lectures participants<br />

had the pleasure of enjoying five cocktails<br />

made by the scholarly bartenders; the<br />

book can only replicate this by providing<br />

the recipes to prepare the appropriate<br />

drinks yourself to go along with the reading<br />

material. Either way, these bartenders<br />

have successfully brought their own brand<br />

of education to patrons in their bar and<br />

to readers around the world, collectively<br />

raising a glass with kings and commoners,<br />

monks and soldiers, dictators and farmers,<br />

Hollywood icons and doctors that have<br />

all had a hand in bar culture and alcohol<br />

consumption throughout history.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based out of Chatham,<br />

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />

“Kym Wolfe has written a fascinating<br />

account of the life of Canadian artist<br />

Philip Aziz.... Wolfe skillfully reveals<br />

the wide array of aesthetic interests<br />

... that inspired Aziz throughout his<br />

life.<br />

It is a wonderful, enlightening read.”<br />

– Brian Meehan<br />

Executive Director, Museum London<br />

Available from:<br />

Attic Books<br />

Brown & Dickson Booksellers<br />

The Rusty Gate Gift & Gallery<br />

MUSE at Museum London<br />

Western University Book Store<br />

www.kymwolfe.com


58 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

cookbooks<br />

Per La Famiglia<br />

Memories and Recipes of Southern Italian Home Cooking<br />

By Emily Richards<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Emily Richards’ latest cookbook,<br />

Per La Famiglia, Memories and<br />

Recipes of Southern Italian Home<br />

Cooking, evokes memories of family<br />

gatherings in the kitchen. This is no accident.<br />

The former Canadian Living Test Kitchen<br />

staffer and celebrity TV cook found that some<br />

of those family recipes were becoming lost as<br />

people moved further apart.<br />

She passes on the tips and tricks that she<br />

learned as a child hanging out in the kitchen<br />

of her Southern Italian family. The texture of<br />

bread or pasta is as important to the recipe<br />

as the words on a page. Sharing these details<br />

with us is her effort to keep her own family’s<br />

traditions alive so we can share them with<br />

our families.<br />

I remember Emily Richards from the early<br />

days of Food TV but I didn’t know she had a<br />

local connection. She received her Bachelor<br />

of Science, Home Economics specializing in<br />

Food and Nutrition from Western University.<br />

Her education, combined with more than<br />

fifteen years in the food industry, has made<br />

her an icon of Canadian cooking.<br />

Richards’<br />

choice of<br />

recipes reflects<br />

her family’s<br />

origins, but<br />

while she<br />

embraces<br />

tradition, she<br />

isn’t bound by<br />

it. Some recipes<br />

are straight up<br />

classics while<br />

Author Emily<br />

Richards, a Western<br />

University grad,<br />

with her latest book<br />

others have a<br />

unique twist,<br />

like couscous<br />

in place of<br />

spaghetti.<br />

I know<br />

that there<br />

is more to Italian food<br />

than pizza, cheese and pasta with red<br />

sauce but those are the dishes I personally<br />

love and this book is full of them. Hearty,<br />

tasty food that makes me want to serve big<br />

Sunday dinners for weeks to come.<br />

Per La Famiglia is organized into the usual<br />

chapters for mains and sides but also has<br />

sections for kitchen staples, celebration menus<br />

and two chapters for sweets. You’ve got to love<br />

any culture that loves cookies that much.<br />

I usually try to find two very different<br />

recipes to highlight for you but I think<br />

that homemade pasta elevates a dish so<br />

much that it’s worth the extra effort once<br />

in a while. I’ll admit that mine never looks<br />

as good as the Pasta Dough recipe in this<br />

picture but the taste and texture is amazing.<br />

If you don’t have the time or inclination to<br />

make the pasta or the sauce yourself, don’t<br />

let that stop you from trying the Spinach<br />

Ricotta Cannelloni. Buy good quality<br />

ingredients and in just a few minutes you<br />

can put together this dish that will make you<br />

look like a star in the kitchen.<br />

I picked up Per La Famiglia with<br />

the intention of giving it a quick read<br />

and writing my review. After two hours<br />

dreaming about what I would cook first,<br />

I knew this wasn’t going to happen. I<br />

sometimes complain that there are not<br />

enough photos in cookbooks. In this case it<br />

may have been a blessing in disguise — it’s<br />

going to take me a while to work through all


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 59<br />

the fantastic recipes in this book. But I think<br />

it going to be time very well spent.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in<br />

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Per La Famiglia: Memories and Recipes of Southern Italian Home Cooking;<br />

Emily Richards, PHEc © 2015 is published by Whitecap. All rights reserved.<br />

Pasta Dough Impasto per la Pasta<br />

If you have a pasta machine you can make all different shapes<br />

and sizes of pasta. I remember helping my Nonna and mom when<br />

pasta was being made. We would hang sheets of pasta off of broom<br />

handles balanced on the backs of chairs to dry. It was so much fun<br />

that I would dance around the pasta sheets as if I was cheering the<br />

pasta to dry. Nothing beats a plate of homemade “pastashutta,”<br />

which is slang for pasta but also an endearing term that my dad has<br />

always used when talking to little kids, including my own children!<br />

This dough makes perfect all-purpose pasta for any occasion.<br />

Makes pasta for 4 to 6 servings<br />

piece is formed. Lay flat on a floured<br />

surface and let dry for about 15–30<br />

minutes. Continue with remaining<br />

dough.<br />

For long pasta: Place dough at top of<br />

pasta cutter and roll through. Wrap<br />

into little nests and let dry completely<br />

for long storage or cook immediately.<br />

1½ cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour (approx.)<br />

3 eggs<br />

1½ tsp (7 mL) salt<br />

1 tsp (5 mL) extra<br />

virgin olive oil<br />

Mound flour on<br />

counter or in a large<br />

bowl. Make a well in<br />

centre of the flour. In<br />

a small bowl, whisk<br />

together eggs, salt and<br />

oil. Pour into well and<br />

begin mixing with fork,<br />

incorporating small<br />

amounts of flour at a<br />

time until a soft dough<br />

forms. Turn out onto a<br />

floured surface.<br />

Knead dough for about<br />

5 minutes, adding more<br />

flour if necessary, until<br />

a firm, smooth dough<br />

forms. Cover with a tea<br />

towel and let rest for<br />

about 15 minutes.<br />

Cut dough into 4 equal<br />

pieces. Using a pasta<br />

machine, roll 1 piece<br />

at a time through the<br />

thickest, or first, setting<br />

two times. Continue<br />

through settings until<br />

a smooth, thin pasta


60 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Spinach Ricotta Cannelloni Cannelloni di Ricotta e Spinaci<br />

My mom showed me how to make this and we<br />

decided that it would be easy to substitute storebought<br />

fresh lasagne sheets in a pinch. These<br />

cannelloni are a family favourite for any night of the<br />

week. They freeze well and make an easy Sunday<br />

dinner. Make sure there’s bread on the table to sop up<br />

any leftover sauce!<br />

Makes 8 servings.<br />

1 batch Homemade Pasta Dough (previous page)<br />

FILLING<br />

½ cup (125 mL) grated Parmesan cheese<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) chopped Italian parsley<br />

2 eggs, lightly beaten<br />

1 tub (11 oz / 330 g) baby spinach cooked,<br />

drained and chopped*<br />

1 tub (475 g) ricotta<br />

cheese**<br />

1 cup (250 mL)<br />

shredded<br />

mozzarella cheese<br />

Pinch of salt<br />

Pinch of pepper<br />

4 cups (1 L)<br />

Homemade<br />

Tomato Sauce<br />

(below) or bottled<br />

pasta sauce<br />

* You can use 16 cups<br />

(4 L) of lightly packed<br />

spinach for the tub.<br />

** You will need 1½ cups<br />

(375 mL) of ricotta<br />

cheese.<br />

Cut dough into 4 equal<br />

pieces. Using pasta<br />

machine, roll 1 piece<br />

at a time through first<br />

setting twice. Continue<br />

through settings until<br />

smooth, thin pasta<br />

piece is formed. Lay<br />

flat on floured surface;<br />

let dry for about 15–30<br />

minutes.<br />

Continue with<br />

remaining dough. Cut<br />

each strip of dough<br />

into 6-inch (15 cm)<br />

rectangles to make a<br />

total of 16 cannelloni.<br />

In large pot of boiling<br />

salted water, cook pasta sheets in batches, for<br />

about 2 minutes. Lift out of the water and lay flat<br />

on a damp tea towel.<br />

Meanwhile, reserve 2 Tbsp (30 mL) each of the<br />

Parmesan and parsley and set aside.<br />

In large bowl, stir together eggs, spinach, ricotta,<br />

mozzarella, remaining Parmesan and parsley, salt<br />

and pepper. Place about 3 Tbsp (45 mL) in centre of<br />

each pasta piece. Roll up to form a cylinder.<br />

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).<br />

Pour 1 cup (250 mL) of the pasta sauce in the<br />

bottom of a 13 × 9-inch (3 L) baking dish to cover<br />

bottom. Place cannelloni snugly in the pan. Pour<br />

remaining sauce over top. Sprinkle with reserved


№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 61<br />

Parmesan cheese and parsley. Cover and bake for<br />

about 45 minutes or until bubbly and hot.<br />

HOMEMADE TOMATO SAUCE<br />

Sugo Fatto in Casa<br />

This is as close to my mom’s and Nonna’s sauce as<br />

I could get. Using home-made canned tomatoes<br />

makes a difference but many people don’t get a<br />

chance to can their own tomatoes. I wanted to be<br />

able to offer you a recipe for a tomato sauce using<br />

store-bought canned tomatoes that was easy to make<br />

and still tasted great. This sauce is perfect for pasta or<br />

any other dish that uses tomato sauce, like pizza. It’s<br />

simple and tasty and also freezes beautifully.<br />

Makes 5 cups (1.25L) sauce.<br />

2 cans (28 oz / 796 mL) plum tomatoes*<br />

6 sprigs fresh Italian parsley<br />

2 sprigs fresh basil<br />

1 small onion, halved<br />

2 cloves garlic, halved<br />

3 Tbsp (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried oregano leaves<br />

2 tsp (10 mL) salt<br />

¼ tsp (1 mL) hot pepper flakes<br />

* You can use 6<br />

cups (1.5 L) of<br />

homemade<br />

tomatoes if you can<br />

your own. You can also use 2 jars (700<br />

mL) of tomato passata if you don’t want to puree<br />

them yourself.<br />

In a food mill or blender, puree tomatoes until<br />

smooth and pour into large saucepan.<br />

Add parsley, basil, onion, garlic, oil, oregano, salt<br />

and hot pepper flakes. Bring to a boil.<br />

Cover and reduce heat to medium-low; cook<br />

for about 2 hours or until reduced slightly and<br />

thickened.<br />

Note: You can serve up the very soft onion, garlic and<br />

herbs on crusty bread. I have family members that<br />

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62 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 58 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

the lighter side<br />

Lessons in Juvenile Gastronomy<br />

By DARIN COOK<br />

As a parent, I have<br />

learned that a child’s<br />

tastes are fickle, everchanging,<br />

bizarre,<br />

and downright frustrating.<br />

Biologically speaking, children<br />

must have the same taste buds as<br />

the rest of us that detect sweet,<br />

sour, bitter, and salty, but I<br />

cannot figure out how some<br />

food combinations ever pass<br />

the taste test. I’ve caught my youngest son,<br />

Jonah, enjoying a Mini Wheat dipped in<br />

ketchup. Give his older brother, Ethan, a<br />

bottle of soy sauce and he’ll free pour far<br />

too much onto his plate, not seeming to<br />

mind the overwhelming umami flavour he<br />

has created in his mashed potatoes or fish<br />

sticks. Gastronomy usually dictates what is<br />

acceptable or not for the refined palette of<br />

a discerning adult, but juvenile gastronomy<br />

seems to have its own rules.<br />

When Ethan’s latest birthday rolled<br />

around, we threw caution to the wind and<br />

allowed him to choose the restaurant where<br />

we would celebrate as a family. I wasn’t<br />

holding out hope for any fine dining, but<br />

something without golden arches would<br />

be appreciated. Most likely their partiality<br />

to soy sauce has steered both boys in the<br />

direction of developing a taste for sushi that<br />

is out-of-the-ordinary for most children, so<br />

we weren’t caught off guard when Ethan<br />

declared, “I think we should go to the sushi<br />

restaurant for my birthday.”<br />

With Ethan turning five and Jonah being<br />

three, we already had an established track<br />

record of meal-time pandemonium at all<br />

types of restaurants. We knew it wouldn’t be<br />

a relaxing meal, but we really wanted sushi,<br />

so we headed out before he could change his<br />

mind. After settling in, we placed our order<br />

of California rolls, salmon sushi, chicken<br />

teriyaki, wonton soup, shrimp tempura, crab<br />

legs, and fried rice — all things the boys are<br />

willing to eat (on a good day).<br />

“And please don’t forget my sushi lettuce,”<br />

Ethan said very officially to<br />

the waitress.<br />

She turned to me with a<br />

puzzled look.<br />

“He would also like a<br />

garden salad,” I translated.<br />

Even though sushi is pretty<br />

adventurous by children’s<br />

standards, our boys continue<br />

to confound us with some of their<br />

preferences. Ethan’s favourite item from<br />

the all-you-can-eat menu is iceberg lettuce<br />

dipped in soy sauce. Surprisingly, steamed<br />

edamame is Jonah’s favourite, but he<br />

obstinately refuses broccoli, green peppers,<br />

or most any other green vegetable.<br />

Our prediction about it not being a<br />

relaxing meal was accurate, and we continue<br />

to prove that eating with kids in public is a<br />

non-stop adventure. Ethan knocked over a<br />

pyramid display of Sapporo beer cans in an<br />

aluminium clatter. Wooden chopsticks were<br />

enlisted as drumsticks on the tabletop more<br />

than as eating implements. Ethan managed<br />

to overflow his soy sauce bowl onto the table,<br />

twice. Jonah left the usual carnage around<br />

his chair, resembling the aftermath of an epic<br />

food fight.<br />

When dessert rolled around, the waitress<br />

brought deep-fried vanilla ice cream<br />

with chocolate sauce as a special treat to<br />

celebrate the birthday.<br />

Ethan loved it, but Jonah announced, “I<br />

want the green one.”<br />

The green one was green tea flavoured ice<br />

cream that we had tried on an earlier visit<br />

that he apparently liked and was willing<br />

to repeat. Given his dislike for most things<br />

green, there is no reason why he should like<br />

it better than vanilla. Maybe there is hope<br />

for these juvenile taste buds after all. That’s<br />

what I thought anyway, until he proceeded<br />

to ask for chocolate sauce on it.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives in Chatham-<br />

Kent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.


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