Eatdrink #58 March/April 2016

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario Since 2007
№ 57 58 • January/February March/April 2016 2016
www.eatdrink.ca
Serving eatdrinkFREE
London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario Since 2007
March 19 & 20
FAMILY
First at The
Pristine
Olive Tasting
Bar
FEATURING
Le Rendez-Vous
Dining & Cocktails
Luxe Living in London
Per La Famiglia
A New Cookbook by Emily Richards
T.O. Culinary Hotspots
A Toronto Road Trip
New Programs in Culinary Education at the
London Training Centre
ALSO: Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery | Sophisticated Drinking | Atlanta: A Taste of the South

A delicious new season
springs to life
in STRATFORD
Stratford salutes spring with the annual Swan Parade celebrations.
Experience Canada’s sweet tastes on the Savour Stratford Maple
Trail and visit McCully’s Hill Farm for sugar bush tours and pancake
brunches on March weekends. Treat yourself to spring foraging
adventures or yummy CheeseWeek menus. Come savour spring’s
flavours in Stratford.
MARCH
3-6 Stratford Garden Festival, Rotary Complex
5-6 McCully’s Hill Farm Maple Festival (every weekend)
10 St. Paddy’s Celtic Celebration – Mystic Fyre, Revival House
24 Amelia Curan and Jerry Nash, Revival House
APRIL
1-3 Weekend Cooking Classes, Rundles (every weekend)
2 Craft Beer and Chocolate, The Parlour
2-3 Swan Parade Weekend Celebrations
4-10 CheeseWeek, Local restaurants
6 CheeseFest DairyXPO, Rotary Complex
16,23,30 Early Spring Foraging, Puck’s Plenty
visitstratford.ca @StratfordON StratfordON

SPRING EVENT S A T T H E IDLE WYL D
Easter Brunch & Dinner Buffet
Sunday, March 27
11am - 2pm - $34.95 per person.
5pm - 8pm - $38.95 per person
Children’s Easter Egg Hunt
Sunday, March 27 | 9:00 am - 10:00am
Join us for an Easter Egg Hunt in the Idlewyld
Courtyard. For Children 10 years of age and
younger. Happy Hunting!
$65
per person
Murder By The Book
Friday, April 22 | 7:00pm - 10:00pm | $65.00 inclusive
A book publishing house holds an awards night for its authors.
Is the body on the floor fiction or non-fiction?
Dress theme – favorite book character or Author, secretary,
Italian Chef, Captain or Alien.
Mother’s Day Brunch & Dinner Buffet
Sunday, May 8
11:00am - 2:00pm - $34.95 per person.
5:00pm - 8:00pm - $38.95 per person
$75
per person
Denise Pelley & Friends
Friday, May 27 | 7pm - 10pm | $75.00 per person inclusive
Enjoy a fantastic dinner prepared by Chef Trevor Stephens
while listening to the beautiful sounds of live Jazz performed
by vocalist Denise Pelly and Friends. Reserve you table today!
$40
per person
+tax & gratuity
Our Famous Saturday Afternoon Tea
March 19, April 16, May 21 & June 18 | 2:00 - 4:00pm
Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea, featuring an assortment of
loose leaf teas, homemade scones, Devon cream and preserves,
cucumber sandwiches, savory mini quiches, and mouthwatering
treats and sweets!
36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8 | ph 519.432.5554
www.idlewyldinn.com |
IdlewyldInnAndSpa

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
•
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A Classic Celebration Destination
Special for the
Holidays
Our Annual
Epicurean
Gift Guide
& More!
Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music
ALSO:
FREE
FEATURING
Chocolate Barr’s
Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur
Old East Village
Food for Thought
The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better
| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
•
www.eatdrink.ca
THE HOLIDAY I SUE
On The Thames
A Classic Celebration Destination
Special for the
Holidays
Our Annual
Epicurean
Gift Guide
& More!
Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music
ALSO:
FREE
FEATURING
Chocolate Barr’s
Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur
Old East Village
Food for Thought
The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better
| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy
eatdrink
inc.
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
eatdrinkmag
@eatdrinkmag
Think Global.
Read Local.
Publisher
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Food Editor
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Copy Editor
Kym Wolfe
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca
Finances
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca
Graphics
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy
Writers
Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Dave Hammond,
Gary Killops, Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery,
Tracy Turlin, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden,
Rick Young
Photographer Steve Grimes
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Website
City Media
Printing
Sportswood Printing
© 2016 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink
or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission
of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues
published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the
information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink
or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily
represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions
but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.
eatdrink
THE HOLIDAY ISSUE
Tableside at
Michael’s
On The Thames
eatdrink
Tableside at
Michael’s
eatdrink.ca
Read every issue online,
no matter which device you prefer.
Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues
Plus!
New Stories Only Online
Plus!
OUR COVER
Proprietors of The Pristine
Olive Tasting Bar, Clara and
Jamie Griffiths, with son Reid
and daughter Ally, in their north
London store. Story on page 16.
Photo by Steve Grimes
(grimesphoto.com)
focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients
A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer
serving London & Area with different and unique ideas
www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 5
notes from the publisher
March Forth!
By CHRIS McDONELL
I
don’t want to be on record as criticizing a poet for the ages, but
can any Canadian agree with T. S. Eliot’s oft-quoted line “April
is the cruellest month” and really mean it? For me, February
is like “hump day” in a dreary work
week. Even after one of the mildest winters
in memory, and knowing that the coldest
Your love of all things Italian begins at
weather is not guaranteed to be behind us,
I greet the arrival of March with glee and
herald April as the arrival of spring. The days
are longer and it’s only going to get better.
This issue brings plenty of strong seasonal
advice. You will see in the BUZZ column
that there are myriad options for enjoyment.
From visiting the sugar bush during the
maple syrup harvest, to visiting the most
sophisticated restaurants (which might be
using that same maple syrup somewhere in
the menu!), there is plenty for everyone.
Gardeners, if you don’t have your seeds
in hand yet, there is still time, but the time is
now! Allan & Rick have some great tips in our
In the Garden column. We have an enticing
Road Trip suggestion, with culinary hotspots
in Toronto on Bryan Lavery’s agenda. Our
music columns are also bursting with news of
upcoming events that are sure to move you,
body and soul. This is also an ideal time to try
a new restaurant; these are not usually the
busiest months of the year, so you’ll get the
best service possible and can linger over
dessert at your leisure. Enjoy!
519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com

contents ISSUE № 58
MARCH/APRIL 2016
8
11
16
20
26
56
62
RESTAURANTS
8 Luxe Life in London: Le Rendez-Vous Dining & Cocktails
By BRYAN LAVERY
CULINARY EDUCATION
11 New Food Skill Programs at the London Training Centre
By BRYAN LAVERY
CULINARY RETAIL
16 Family First at The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar, in London
By JANE ANTONIAK
ROAD TRIPS
20 Getaway to Toronto: T.O. Culinary Hotspots
By BRYAN LAVERY
TRAVEL
26 A Taste of Southern Hospitality in Atlanta, Georgia
By JANE ANTONIAK
NEW & NOTABLE
30 The BUZZ
IN THE GARDEN
40 Dreams in a Packet!
By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN
WINE
42 Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery
By GARY KILLOPS
BEER MATTERS
44 To Your Health — Literally
By THE MALT MONK
THEATRE
47 On the Boards: Manuel
By RICK YOUNG
THE CLASSICAL BEAT
52 Spring Strings
By NICOLE LAIDLER
VARIOUS MUSICAL NOTES
54 Jam Nights and Upcoming Concerts
By RICK YOUNG
BOOKS
56 Sophisticated Drinking
by Kerstin Ehmer & Beate Hinderman
Review by DARIN COOK
COOKBOOKS
58 Per La Famiglia by Emily Richards
Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
THE LIGHTER SIDE
62 Lessons in Juvenile Gastronomy
By DARIN COOK
42
44
58

March 19 & 20
Sat 9-5 & Sun 10-4
London Convention Centre
The most awesome way to kick-start your Spring!
More than 150 unique vendors,
demonstrations, entertainment,
sampling and FUN!
get your tickets online
www.womenslifestyle.ca
ADVANCED
$10
AT THE DOOR
$12

8 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
restaurants
The Luxe Life in London
Le Rendez-Vous Dining and Cocktails
By BRYAN LAVERY
Every serious restaurant is an
expression of taste on the part
of its chef and owners, a balance
of principles and concessions in
an effort to offer a brief but memorable
experience to the patron.
The collection of stylish restaurants around
the Covent Garden Market and Budweiser
Gardens continues to expand with the
opening of Le Rendez-Vous, and the more
understated London Wine Bar which opened
last fall beside Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium.
Both businesses were initially held up by
delays in building inspection during last
year’s strike by the city’s inside workers.
Le Rendez-Vous (briefly The Dirty Martini
— turns out to be a ubiquitous name with
possible legal ramifications) is a lush
supper club style restaurant with innovative
modernist cuisine. It is located in the former
bank building that was more recently the
home of the micro-distillery Black Fly
Beverage Co., and the Villa Resto-Lounge.
It is almost impossible to imagine a more
urbane and sexy place to dine than the Le
Rendez-Vous in London. We love the reelto-reel
sound system and the sultry jazz/
rock stylings. In
the evening the
restaurant has a
vibrant energy
and attracts a
social scene
centered on the
long granite bar.
The lighting is
sophisticated,
and wherever
you are seated
the views are
unobstructed.
The art deco
premises at the
corner of Talbot
and Dundas have been refurbished and decorated
with dark wood bookshelves, Venetianstyle
glass chandeliers and quilted white
faux-leather banquette seating and matching
ultra-modern chairs with chrome bases.
The long bar along the east wall with
overhead mirrors is a dominant feature. The
tapas/snack menu and the large windows
that open to the street cater to the later-night
target audience spilling out of Budweiser
Gardens events. The windows provide
visibility from inside and out.
The small plates/tapas offerings guarantee
plenty of choices for the after-hours crowd. A
large quenelle of beef tartare with sherry gel,
brik pastry crackers, egg yolk, watercress, and
smoked marrow was a success. We also loved
the cod cakes and the confit of duck.
The formerly tiny kitchen has been extended
and the cooking equipment upgraded with six
burners, a convection oven, salamander, grill,
heat lamps and a defined pass.
Chef Ashton Gillespie is a Fanshawe
alumnus with a long stint at The Only on
King and shorter stretches at North Moore
Catering, and the now defunct Splendido in
Toronto. Time spent at Yours Truly in Toronto

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 9
Chef Ashton Gillespie (left) fuses unexpected ingredients
into his cooking. Professional and friendly servers (above)
wear crisp white shirts, red ties and long black aprons.
gave Gillespie an insight into the
Korean and Chinese culinary canon,
evident when he fuses unexpected
ingredients into his cooking.
On our first visit we were greeted
warmly and professionally by both
the owner Ridvan Dani and the front
of house manager Luca Monti. The women sipping
cocktails at the bar told us that the personable Monti
is a big draw. Many of you may remember Monti’s
hospitality from his years at the London Ale House.
He is also a local actor and Artistic Producer of
Iglesia Productions Theatre Company.
The service here is intelligent and friendly with
waiters wearing crisp white shirts, red ties and long
black aprons. The livery matches the ambience —

10 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
it’s clean, professional and sophisticated.
Le Rendez-Vous features an inventive menu whose
mantra is local, farm to table and organic. The restaurant
management offers many incentives to get you through
the door. We loved the $35.00 prix fixe menu.
We started with the blood orange and beet mousse
with beet meringue, compressed blood orange and
mounds of finely ground nuts, which the menu referred
to as nut soil. The plate was a very modernist offering
and far from the typical and ubiquitous beet salad
paired with goat cheese that has replaced the tomato
and mozzarella salad in popularity. Adding beetroot
juice to the meringues makes them fluorescently pink
and tends towards the bijou.
The Church Key: gin, mint, lime
Octopus, immaculately grilled, was tender with a
juice, soda & cucumber
good bite, thanks to Chef’s deft touch. It was served
with candied fennel, watercress purée,
roasted squash and blood orange
vinaigrette and a purple potato. The mix
of colours made the dish pop and was
visually stunning.
The strip loin was perfectly cooked,
flavourful, tender, presented in an eyecatching
manner. The grilled (cellared)
leeks were robust and a nice counterpoint
to the steak, complementing the meat
Blood Orange & Beet Mousse with Beet Meringue
nicely. All of the flavours harmonized
well together. Butter poached radishes
were a creative accompaniment, and the sweet potato
was a welcome change from the standard offering.
On the current menu there is an excellent rib-eye and
delicious arctic char.
In the past year the city’s cocktail scene, whose
revival has lagged behind those of Toronto and
Stratford, has blossomed. The bar does not take a back
seat to the kitchen. The cocktail menu pays homage to
the martini. All the signature martinis are named after
downtown London restaurants: Abruzzi, Che Resto Bar,
Black Trumpet, Blu Duby, The Church Key, La Casa,
Tasting Room and Waldo’s.
We are always happy to hear about a new wave of
Striploin Steak
chefs shaking up the established food scene. Ashton
Gillespie is among London’s latest up and coming chefs
with big futures.
Le Rendez-Vous Dining and Cocktails
109 Dundas Street, London
519-204-0173
www.lerendezvousldn.com
tuesday–thursday: 5:00 pm–11:00 pm
friday & saturday: 5:00 pm–2:00 am
Grilled Octopus
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at
Large.

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 11
culinary education
Local Food Skills
and the LTC Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship Program
By BRYAN LAVERY
Since 2002, David Corke has
been the Executive Director
of London Training Centre
(LTC), an award winning,
non-profit social mission driven
organization, which applies marketbased
strategies to self-fund programs
and initiatives that help people have a
positive impact in the community.
Corke is a highly-respected and
fervent food educator with a rocksteady
commitment. He is a long-time
proponent for local and sustainable
food systems, from both a civic and
economic development viewpoint.
When it started in 1987, the LTC
helped disenfranchised young people find
employment in the food service industry.
Since then, however, LTC has morphed
into a cutting-edge and multifaceted
organization providing food skills training,
advocacy for careers in food service, and
other services that range from computer
training to banquet staffing.
Corke’s work in the non-profit sector was
influenced by a successful 20-year
career in the private sector. He
owned and operated
restaurants, as well
as being employed
by a large foodservice
corporation in the highly competitive
Toronto market.
I asked Corke his thoughts on why he
thinks the restaurant industry is struggling
so hard to find talent.
“I think the short answer is twofold.
Speaking locally about the London and
region market — one where many customers
are looking for consistency of product and
price point, there are a limited number
of restaurants where skilled chefs do not
quickly become bored. At the same time,
as culinary educators and advocates for
London Training Centre’s Chef instructor Steve James with a
student in the Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship Program
the industry we believe that the staff of
an operation should be considered much
more than a labour cost on the profit and
loss statement. Our point: the restaurant
business is about people so if the goal is a
dining room full of guests having incredible
food experiences, owners need the best
people working for them. If restaurateurs
want their operations to be “exceptional”
then they have to be the
“exception” — and pay more
for the best.”
The Ministry of
Training, Colleges
and Universities has
funded the LTC, for a second year, to
provide a Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship
program. The course, taught by expert chef
instructors Steve James and John Fisher,
examines in depth safe knife skills, kitchen
sanitation and safety, fundamental cooking
principles, menu design, pastry baking
and bread making practices, nose to tail
butchery, identification and use of seasonal
produce, stock and sauce making. Limited
enrollment and small class size offer a
better opportunity for an exclusive student
learning experience. The first session began

12 www.eatdrink.ca
at the end of January, and the second intake
will commence in June/July.
Last year’s pilot program was a success.
Students were given four months of full-time
practical instruction. This was by followed
by 12-week paid work placements with
restaurants such as Roco Taco, Bertoldi’s
Trattoria, Dolcetto and The Red Rabbit, and
with Chef David Van Eldik at the Convention
Centre. Some participants have moved
on into culinary programs at Fanshawe
College. “A lot of chefs we approached in the
community are willing to take participants
afterwards for co-ops. If they take them on
as an apprentice after the placement, there
is also additional funding available to them,”
says James.
Applicants are screened by James and
Fisher and must demonstrate a commitment
to the program. They are required have to
an Ontario Secondary School Diploma or
№ 58 | March/April 2016
equivalent and be available to attend the
program full time
Guest speakers, including chefs and
restaurateurs, are slated for each session.
In the past, Stratford chef Simon Briggs has
given pastry demonstrations. Chef Michael
Smith has spoken about the profession
and chef/restaurateur Mark Kitching has
talked to students about setting expectations
in the restaurant industry. This session,
restaurateur Ian Kennard from Willie’s Café
will teach about food costing. The students
are also taken on field trips. Destinations
have included Antony John’s certified
organic farm and greenhouses Soiled
Reputation; the Milky Whey Fine Cheese
Sheep in Stratford for a cheese tasting; and
Jill’s Table for an olive oil tasting.
The true essence of the LTC narrative is that
they have achieved the whole seasonal cycle
of our relationship with food. They are not
Culinary students at the London Training Centre get hands-on, practical
training and experience, as well as instruction from professionals like
Chefs John Fisher (below right) and Steve James (top left)

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 13
only culinary educators
and employment
specialists; they are
also farmers, retailers,
caterers, food artisans,
restaurateurs, funders and
local food advocates.
The Local Food Skills
program connects people
to food. It provides solid
food-based knowledge
and provides participants
with the opportunity
to explore the idea of
working with food as a
job or a profession. The
program is a full-time
three week course that
provides skills training,
industry certifications
and learning experiences
including fundamental
culinary skills, foodservice
styles, growing, harvesting
and retailing food at a farmers’ market.
Revenue from the wildly popular monthly
Local Food Skills dinner put on by students
supports this program.
Last spring, LTC launched The Larder, an
online food store. Items are offered weekly,
and might include croissants, Montreal-style
bagels, specialty breads, and chicken and
veal soup stocks; all are prepared by Culinary
Program pre-apprenticeship students.
Local Food Feasts Catering is another arm
of the organization and operated by LTC
with the support of the Local Food Skills
program and the banquet staffing business
known as Allumette.
Feastival, the LTC’s fundraiser takes place
annually. Last July, the popular event was
“Owners need the best people working
for them,” says London Training Centre’s
Executive Director David Corke. “Our students
are very engaged in learning and passionate
about food.”
a great success with
artisanal food stations,
guest chefs, live music,
and Ontario wines and
craft beers. Students of
the Local Food Skills
Program catered the
event alongside special
guest chefs and local
food artisans like Las
Chicas del Café, Railway
City Brewing Company
and volunteers from Les
Marmitons London, who
worked the pizza oven
with chef John Fisher.
This year the Feastival
will relocate to the
St. Thomas Canada
Southern Railway
Station (CASO) for a sitdown
“Harvest Dinner”
for approximately
150 people on Friday
October 7th. The dinner is a perfect way
to celebrate seasonal local food while
supporting Local Food Skills programming.
If you would like to attend one of the
monthly Local Food Skills dinners, learn
more about the program, or to share your
thoughts and ideas about food, the staff
encourage you to contact them for more
information.
London Training Centre
317 Adelaide St. South Unit 110, London
519-685-4331
www.londontraining.on.ca
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.
Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service.
NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFE & PRIVATE DINING
THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE
northmoore@rogers.com | www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca
519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge

Stratford is more than
great theatre
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@StratfordON
StratfordON
SUPPER CLUB Themed Dinners
One Thursday each month chases away the blues!
{ }
Follow us on Facebook for notices
about future dates for this monthly
event series. Guests are encouraged
to dress on theme. $50/person
Nosh Monday continues
every Monday night!
@redrabbitresto
64 Wellington St, Stratford
www.redrabbitresto.com
519.305.6464
Thursday–Monday
Year Round

55 George Street
Stratford, Ontario
tel. 519.272.2828
See more Easter
treats online at
chocolatebarrs.com
Holiday hours:
Open evenings ’til
8 pm all Easter
week long. Good
Friday: closed.
Open Easter Sat.
from 8am to 6pm.

16 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
culinary retail
It’s Family First
at The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar, in London
By JANE ANTONIAK | Photos by STEVE GRIMES
There’s something mellow about the
way Jamie Griffiths does business.
The guy is seriously calm. He emits
an essence of happiness as he chats
with customers in his Old North London
shop, from his perch next to the front window.
Surrounded by more than sixty gleaming
silver tanks of olive oils and balsamic vinegars,
Jamie has managed the most important aspect
of being an entrepreneur and a father. That
sometimes elusive work-life balance is solidly
in his grasp. Since opening The Pristine Olive
Tasting Bar nearly four years ago, he and his
wife Clara have welcomed two babies to their
lives. All while they have launched a new
concept business, and Clara has held down
a demanding customs broker position with
Wilson International.
From the start, the couple bucked the
retail food trend and closed the shop on
Sundays. Newborn son Reid went to the
store with Jamie on Mondays, and spent
Saturdays with Clara as Jamie worked in the
shop on the busiest day of the week. Luckily,
the Griffiths have the strong support of
grandparents who pitch in and babysit on
Fridays. The family now includes daughter
Ally, whose care is added to the mix.
Once done his grandparenting duties on
Saturday morning, Dave Griffiths hightails it
to the Western Fair Farmers’ Market, where
he offers samples to shoppers, through the
company’s retailer at the market, The Village
Meat Shop. From the busy corner stall,
Dave enthusiastically offers samples from
a selection of oils that includes the most
popular flavour, Tuscan Herb. It pairs well
with the local lamb and pork sold by Erin and
Andrew Jardine at Village Meats.
“Dave is in his element at the market,” says
Clara Griffiths of her father-in-law. “He loves
to work there and he has a passion for the
product,” she adds. Through market sales,
Dave also encourages market shoppers to
2016
Proprietors of The Pristine
Olive Tasting Bar, Clara and
Jamie Griffiths, with son Reid
and daughter Ally, in their
north London store
2015 2014 2013
Finding the perfect work/life balance, over time!
visit The Pristine Olive for a more complete
tasting experience.
Before opening The Pristine Olive, Jamie
and Dave Griffiths worked together in a
telecom consulting company. Jamie said he
was looking “for a change” but he knew he
wanted to be self-employed. While Clara
and Jamie were on vacation in Halifax in

№ 55 | September/October 2015
Trust...
Taste...
Quality...
The Pristine Olive
offers over 60
different olive
oils and balsamic
vinegars —
stored in stainless
steel "fusti" tanks
— that you can
sample before
you buy
2011, shortly
after getting
married, they
stumbled
into Canada’s first olive oil tasting bar, Liquid
Gold. Taken by the concept, Jamie travelled
with his father to Oakland, California where
they toured Veronica Foods, supplier of oils
and vinegars to Liquid Gold. “It was such
an awesome experience, learning about it,”
says Jamie. He returned a second time and
since then he has also attended “olive oil
summits” to meet farmers and producers
who sell to Veronica Foods. The company is
the sole supplier of product to The Pristine
Olive, which sells 64 oils and vinegars,
including 12 single cultivar extra virgin
oils. “Veronica is an awesome company to
work with. They are a supplier; we are not a
franchise. Yet they give us super support.”
The Pristine Olive also carries a small line
of complementary products including olive
oil based shampoo, conditioner and body
wash. The Griffiths also sell some other food
items including pesto made with olive oil,
smoked artichoke tapenade, roasted red
peppers in oil, meat rubs and hot sauces.
They are toying with adding a line of locally
made chocolates that contain their flavored
oils. Throughout the shop are beautiful olive
wood bowls and cutting boards — perfect
for salads and dipping breads.
At Metzger’s,
we follow Old World
recipes to create healthy and
wholesome foods. We hand select
dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA
Beef and offer superior local Pork,
Poultry and Lamb. We are especially
proud of our own handcrafted
artisan-style meats and salamis. We
are confident that you will taste the
Metzger Meats difference.
Open six days a week.
Hensall, Ontario
Just off Hwy 4,
45 minutes north of London.
www.metzgermeats.com
519-262-3130
Available in London at
The Village Meat Shop
at Western Fair Farmers’ Market
on Saturdays!
Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry
Specialty European Meat Products

18 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
Several bottle sizes — and sample size packages
— enable experimentation and encourage cooks
to only buy quantities they can use while fresh
Recently the Griffiths were able
to hire an employee, which frees up
some time for Jamie to leave the shop.
He’s able to run the kids to a nearby
daycare, as they are getting too old to
dash around the shop. And he supplies
other retailers, including Jay Dancin
in Lambeth, The Mill House in Arva,
Thames Market in Ingersoll and All
’Bout Cheese on Dundas St. in London.
Still, where Jamie seems most
content is back in North London, where
he has lived all of his life. “It’s been a
great little spot. There are so many faces
we see all the time,” he says. “Our shop
hours are built around Reid and Ally.
We open at 10:30 and close at 5:30. And
we close on the kids’ birthdays.”
“We’re still learning about the
work-life balance, how to minimize
stress,” says Clara. But, looking at this
couple, it is apparent they know how
to bottle success.
The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar
462 Cheapside St, London
519-433-4444
www.thepristineolive.ca
monday–friday: 10:30am–5:30pm
saturday: 10:00am–5:00pm
closed sunday
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to
eatdrink, who prefers Tuscan Herb oil with Fig Dark
Balsamic. She is also Manager, Communications &
Media Relations, at King’s University College, London.
Photographer STEVE GRIMES is a regular
contributor of strong images to eatdrink. See more of his
work and get contact info at www.grimesphoto.com.
Just one of the 160+ recipes at thepristineolive.ca
Ricotta-Basil Olive Oil Spread
This easy spread has an aioli-like consistency but uses
no eggs. Instead, fresh, part skim ricotta stands in,
lending a creamy-dreamy texture and richness.
I chose to use a Chilean Arbequina for this
application. With its grassy-herbaceousness, apple
peel center, and healthy peppery finish, it served
to cut the richness of the ricotta and provide an
interesting counterbalance.
A clove of garlic, squeeze of lemon and sprig of
basil later, the spread came together magnificently. I
toasted some bread and liberally slathered it with the
spread. However, it would be equally delicious as a
mayonnaise replacement, a dip for crudites, or spread
on fresh grilled salmon.
1½ cup part skim ricotta cheese
½ cup Ultra Premium, Chilean Arbequina EVOO
five-inch sprig of fresh basil, washed and dried
1 clove fresh garlic, smashed
1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
Place the ingredients inside the bowl of a food
processor or blender and process until creamy and
smooth in consistency.
Adjust seasoning and store tightly covered in the
refrigerator for up to three days.

Welcome to Wortley Village
“One of Canada’s Coolest Neighbourhoods”
The Heart of Old South
beautiful landscapes,
creative containers and florals
for every moment
green with envy
GARDEN • FLORAL
141 Wortley Road, London
519.878.4666
www.greenwithenvydesigns.com
FA S HIONS & A C C E SSORI E S

20 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
road trips
Getaway to Toronto
Where to find some of the city’s culinary hotspots
By BRYAN LAVERY
SPONSORED BY
What is more exciting than
planning a culinary getaway
to Toronto? Here are a few
recommendations and tips for
navigating the vibrant and ever-changing
restaurant scene and some of Toronto’s
hottest culinary tickets.
Park your vehicle. There is an efficient
transit system that makes it easy to get
around the city. More than that, Toronto is a
walkable city of many communities with great
restaurants, markets and culinary retailers.
Located on Front Street and operating
since 1803, the St. Lawrence Market is
heralded as the world’s best food market
by National Geographic. The other mustsee
is Kensington Market, another noted
gastronomic attraction, and colourful vestige
of the area’s storied history. The market is
an expansive multi-cultural culinary scene
Chabrol, at 90
Yorkville Ave., offers a
baked-to-order apple
tarte served with a
calvados sabayon
sprawling across
numerous blocks
to the west of
downtown’s
vibrant
Chinatown.
Both markets remain a fundamental part
of Toronto’s epicurean culture, even for the
most jaded of visitors.
The revitalization of former industrial
neighbourhoods like the Junction with
its proximity to High Park has meant a
proliferation of upscale restaurants, stylish
cafes and indie bars opening along Dundas
Richmond Station, just south of Richmond St. off Yonge,
features an inspired daily chalkboard menu
Photos by Renée Suen, Toronto Life
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22 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
The Indie Ale House on Dundas Street West
Street West. The Junction neighbourhood was
ostensibly dry until 2001, and the elimination
of prohibition has had an irrefutable effect by
attracting a new hip demographic. The Indie
Ale House brewpub in the Junction is perfect
for craft beer aficionados, who like beer flights
or quality upscale food offerings, or maybe just
want to pick up a growler to go. Praiseworthy
spots in the ’hood are Cool Hand of a Girl,
Nodo, and Bricco Wine Bar. Other standouts
are Honest Weight, a New England-inspired
fishmonger/seafood spot, and a gourmet takeout
sandwich shop, Cut the Cheese. The Hole
In the Wall is cozy venue for live music, craft
beer and cocktails. Don’t forget the Junction
Farmers’ Market on Saturdays.
Chef Rob Gentile and his partner’s third
and most sophisticated restaurant is the
style-driven 100-seat Buca Yorkville, on the
main floor of Yorkville’s Four Seasons condo
tower. A personal favourite, Buca Yorkville
has a stylish Italian design sensibility and
a seafood-focused menu. The initial Buca,
squirrelled away down an alleyway on King
Street West, is still one of the city’s great
Behind the door at
Boralia, on Ossington,
diners enjoy modern
riffs on Canadian
frontier food, with
a menu inspired
by traditional
Aboriginal dishes and
recipes of 18th- and
19th-century settlers
and immigrants.
Cool Hand of a Girl, in Toronto’s Junction District
osterias. And Bar Buca, Gentile’s
chic aperitivo/snack bar at
King and Portland reflects the
mouthwatering diversity of the
Italian foodscape in Toronto.
A new and great place to check
out is the tiny, recently opened
southern French-inspired Chabrol,
located in the refurbished 20-seat
back dining room of what was
previously Le Trou Normand.

№ 58 | March/April 2016
A visit to one of David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants
(above & below) is de rigeur for the serious foodie
Until this past summer, Le Trou Normand
was Yorkville’s oldest French restaurant,
where I once worked with a young Susur Lee
during the restaurant’s heyday. Speaking of
Lee, he recently opened the upscale comfortfood-style
Frings with rapper Drake, on King
Street — where it remains difficult to get a
reservation.
David Chang’s Momofuku Noodle Bar
started the “Lucky Peach” empire and that’s
why dining at the Toronto outpost attached
to the Shangri-La Hotel on University Avenue
is de rigueuer before venturing to Chang’s
other restaurants, Momofuku Daisho and
Momofuku Shoto. With innovative takes on
what would ordinarily be considered street
food, Noodle Bar’s signature specialty is ramen
with pork belly and shoulder, fish cake, and
egg — and of course its famed fried chicken.
Be sure to pick up a copy of Lucky Peach, a
quarterly food and lifestyle journal.
Maplelea Canadian Dolls
March 12-19 (March Break)
During March Break, there will be a large
pop-up Maplelea Canadian Dolls shop at the
Market featuring different activities, including:
Dining with your doll at the Maplelea Café,
making tasty treats at the Maplelea Cooking
School and daily craft sessions.
Winter Indoor Farmers’ Market
Saturdays until March 19, 9am–1pm
The Winter Indoor Farmers’ Market opens on
Saturday mornings until March 19th, upstairs
on the mezzanine. A special Outdoor Easter
Farmers’ Market will operate on Saturday,
March 26, 8am–1pm. Expect to see some of your
favourite farmers, bakers & crafters on hand.
Meals on Wheels
Friday, March 18
Help raise $50,000 in vital funds for Meals on
Wheels London programs and services. Join us
at our annual fundraiser Move for Wheels
(formerly Walk for Wheels).

24 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
Panzanella with fried eggplant
& grilled white peaches
Chef Rob Gentile and his partner have three restaurants
in Toronto. This is the stylish interior of Buca Yorkville. Three
dishes are shown to the right.
Interesting restaurants paying homage to the nostalgic
underpinnings of Canadian food culture are
Actinolite, Boralia, Richmond Station and Edulis.
The ingredient-focused and technique-driven
Richmond Station is just south of Richmond Street, off
Yonge Street. Chefs Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan
have a daily chalkboard menu.
What started with a few independents on Ossington
has morphed into many resto/bars locating in the
in the area in the last couple of years. We appreciate
chef Justin
Cournoyer
and co-owner
Claudia
Bianchi’s
Trout
Gnocchi with green beans & saffron
Farinata with chick pea crepe, peperonata,
robiola cheese and hen’s egg
venerated Actinolite restaurant, which was decreed by
Toronto Globe and Mail dining critic Chris Nuttall-Smith
as “one of the most essential places to eat in Ontario, if
not in Canada.”
At Boralia, on the southern part of the Ossington
Strip, chefs Wayne Morris and Evelyn Wu offer top
notch dishes inspired by indigenous peoples and early
settlers — think modern riffs on Canadian frontier food.
Actinolite (below) is “one of the most essential places to eat in
Ontario, if not Canada,” according to Globe & Mail dining critic
Chris Nuttall-Smith. Three dishes are shown to the left.
Sweetbreads
Carrots

№ 58 | March/April 2016
London’s
Best Kept
Secret
Photo by Virginia Macdonald, enRoute
Edulis, off the
beaten track on
Niagara St. near
King, takes farmto-table
seriously,
with a heritage
Chantecler chicken
baked in fresh hay.
Another
Ossington
hotspot is
the 40-seat
Bellwoods Brewery located in a repurposed
garage. The beer is brewed on site and it’s an
alternative spot to pick up a growler.
Chefs Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth’s
Edulis is a much acclaimed gem located below
the King West beaten track on Niagara St.
The Wychwood/Hillcrest Village is another
foodie favourite hub, forging the longest
corridor of the most ethnically diverse
culinary establishments in mid-town. The
southern barbeque at The Stockyards,
sustainable ocean-wise certified fish and
chips at Sea Witch, and modernist spins on
Indian cuisine at Pukka are all highly touted.
The area is also home to Artscape Wychwood
Barns, originally built as a streetcar
maintenance facility in 1913. The converted
heritage building is a community centre and
cultural hub with a mix of amenities including
arts, culture, food security, urban agriculture,
environmental and other initiatives. The Stop’s
Farmers’ Market there on Saturdays attracts
foodies with its diversity of quality farm fresh
food and artisanal products.
The range of choice in Toronto, gastronom
ically speaking, is endless. Check out
my blog for other recommendations, at
ethicalgourmet. blogspot.com
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor & Writer at Large.
Located at the Four Points London
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London
519.681.0600
fourpointslondon.com

26 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
travel
A Taste of Southern Hospitality
Discovering the Eclectic Culinary Pulse of Atlanta, Georgia
By JANE ANTONIAK
Somehow Atlanta wasn’t on my
bucket list. A big American city
for a long weekend getaway —
“no thanks” was on the tip of my
tongue before I remembered the genteel
hospitality of other Southern sweet spots
like Charleston and New Orleans. Then
thoughts of shrimp, po’ boy sandwiches and
peach cocktails surfaced. Suddenly, the idea
of spending some time back in the American
south became more appealing.
This jaunt to Atlanta was the dream child
of my book club crew, who love to travel.
Every three years or so, after we have salted
away enough cash from our monthly dues,
we pack up and head off for an extended
weekend. Reading takes place only on
the plane. We call ourselves the Yia Yias,
modeling ourselves after characters in
books we have loved, who also enjoy their
fair share of good eating, drinking, gabbing,
touring and shopping.
It’s relatively easy to get to Atlanta from
London for a weekend. Flights from London
International Airport via Chicago have you
there by noon. Atlanta has excellent municipal
ground transportation, called Marta, that
whisked us from the airport to the upscale
neighbour of Buckhead for only $2.50.
We love staying at Embassy Suites hotels
as they include full breakfasts and, most importantly,
the infamous manager’s reception:
free happy hour drinks from 5 to 7 p.m. At the
Buckhead Embassy Suites, be sure to ask for
the “special” cocktail, as in, “I’m gonna make
y’all something nice and special” with peach
juice, peach schnapps and well, whatever
else makes it special. Oh, did I mention it was
free? Front of house staff were exceptionally
helpful and even provided a complimentary
upgrade with a wink and smile.
We share an interest in cooking, so past
trips have included cooking classes and
culinary tours. This time we opted for the
Atlanta’s Midtown, viewed from Piedmont Park

№ 58 | March/April 2016
presents
The food options are plentiful: Venezuelan sandwiches
(above) can be found at the Sweet Auburn Curb Market,
and offerings from Cuban grocer Lotta Frutta (below)
include these appetizing cremolata fruit cups
Hope
made
delicious
APRIL 20
in partnership with
Atl-Cruzers electric car food tour of Atlanta.
With Steve at the wheel of a doorless Smartcar-type
machine, we glided noiselessly
along, with stops to sample interesting new
cuisines. We went to the Sweet Auburn Curb
Market and had arepas — hearty Venezuelan
sandwiches with plantain — from Arepa
Mia, along with delicious Mexican cold
chocolate beverages. We had the cremolatta
fruit cup from Lotta Frutta, a Cuban grocer.
We stopped at Ponce City Market for pecan
oil tasting at Strippagio, and a chicken
sandwich from Hop’s Chicken. Also at the
Market was a shop called 1821 Bitters that
makes handcrafted premium cocktail bitters,
Book a table and
the restaurant will donate 25%
of the cost of your meal to the
Regional HIV/AIDS Connection
Reservations Recommended
List of Participating Restaurants at:
www.atasteforlife.org

28 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
Your culinary tour of Atlanta might include riding in
a novel electric car (above) and include a visit to the
Buckhead Diner (right) for some modern takes on classic
tinctures, shrubs, syrups, old fashioned
tonic, ginger beer, and craft cocktail mix
using fresh ingredients. I bought spicy ginger
beer syrup which was a hit back home. Our
last stop was Lure,where we enjoyed classic
scallops and grits (recipe on the next page).
Not only was this tour delicious, we also
saw some important historical sites including
places made famous by Martin Luther King
Jr., Inman Park, and the location of the 1996
Olympics. This tour is rated number one on
Trip Advisor in Atlanta, and for good reason.
It was a highlight experience for all seven of
us. Plan to have this tour be your main meal
of the day, as you will not leave hungry.
When in Atlanta, pretty much everyone
has to have a Coca-Cola. A visit to the World
of Coca-Cola in downtown Atlanta is well
worth it, even if you are not into drinking
your coke without rum. (We asked — they
declined.) But we did try a multitude of colas
from around the world, including various
fruit-based sodas. Visitors enjoy a selfguided
tour through the museum, including
a stop inside the vault that contains the
Coca-Cola recipe — or so it’s claimed. We
American diner food, a stop at the seafood market
(bottom right), and some time at the World of Coca-Cola
(bottom left).
particularly enjoyed seeing all the artifacts
related to Coca Cola’s sponsorship of
Olympic events over the years. The museum
is located next to the Atlanta aquarium,
which is also a popular tourism destination.
The perfect antidote to all that coke was a
visit to Buckhead Diner on Piedmont Road.
Some fried green tomatoes, house-made
blue cheese potato chips, and pulled BBQ
beef brisket spring rolls topped off our classic
American day. This is one of the fanciest
diners I have visited. Picture valet parking
and limos. Very high end, while still retro
classic American. Well worth a visit. Also on
Piedmont is Bones, a restaurant consistently
rated #1 on Zagats. This traditional steak
house is reminiscent of Chicago —
professional yet friendly service by long-time
waiters, and a kitchen that certainly knows
how to serve a perfect piece of meat.
We found bliss in the form of bourbon
and pecan pie at the tantalizing Southern
Art & Bourbon Bar on Peachtree Road N.E.
It’s situated in the beautiful Intercontinental
Hotel, with live jazz playing in the atrium.
Southern posh at its finest.

№ 58 | March/April 2016
It was truly surprising how culinarily
focused Atlanta can be for visitors. From
sampling praline candies and Chicago mix
popcorn at one of the three markets we
visited, to tap houses with more than 100
beers on offer, it seemed that the city had
developed a definite eclectic culinary pulse.
Our birthday girl was more than pleased
with her choice of location. “I found the
friendliness of the residents to be an added
surprise,” says Janet Carr. “Everyone we met
was helpful, enthusiastic and genuinely
enjoyed helping, and were passionate about
their city. True southern hospitality.”
JANE ANTONIAK has been a member of the Yia Yia’s book
club since it was founded more than 20 years ago in London.
She is also a regular culinary travel writer for eatdrink.
Lure Scallops ‘n’ Grits
with Maple Hot Sauce Butter
MAPLE-HOT SAUCE BUTTER
1 pound butter, cold, cut into 1oz pieces
1 tbsp water
1½ tbsp crystal hot sauce
1½ tbsp maple syrup
juice of half a lemon
Bring water to boil in a small saucepan over
medium low heat. Whisk in cold butter one
piece at time. Keep sauce moving constantly.
Add maple syrup and hot sauce. Stir to combine.
Add lemon juice and taste. Adjust as necessary.
Sauté large scallops. Drizzle with sauce.
Serve on bed of grits cooked with butter, milk
and parmesan cheese. Top with a poached egg.
OPEN
Thursday to Sunday
11am to 8pm
Five Fortune Culture
RESTAURANT
366 Richmond Street at King
www.fivefortuneculture.com
226 667 9873
“Pure
Chinese”
Cuisine
—eatdrink
A Taste of Europe since 1974
MURDER MYSTERIES
April 1 • April 29
122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)
519-679-9940
Open Daily for Dinner
www.marienbad.ca
Lunch Monday–Saturday

30 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
The BUZZ ... new and notable
Around Our Region
You can easily spend an hour, a day or a
weekend exploring along the Oxford County
Cheese Trail. The trail is divided into hubs to
help you identify what highlights are nearby.
If you plan on seeing everything on the trail, the suggested
route starts at Mountainoak Cheese and continues to
Bright Cheese & Butter, Woodstock, Gunn’s Hill Artisan
Cheese, Norwich, and to Tillsonburg and Ingersoll (or
Ingersoll–Tillsonburg–Norwich works, too). By following
this route, your next stop is always just 20 minutes away or
less. www.tourismoxford.ca/cheese-trail
The Dairy Capital
Cheese Fest is a one day
interactive family event on
April 23 that will celebrate
Woodstock, Ontario’s
recognition as the Dairy
Capital of Canada and
connect the community
to local cheese makers,
artisans and restaurants
in Woodstock and the
surrounding area. www.
dairycapitalcheesefest.ca
Woodstock is about to enter the craft beer scene with a
brewery slated to open in June. Upper Thames Brewing
Co. is getting its new home at 225 Bysham Park ready to
produce small batches of five beer styles, including a Scotch
ale and a Belgian wheat.
Get out to McCully’s Farm and learn how maple syrup is
made! Take a horse drawn wagon ride through the sugar
bush, see how the sap is collected, and then visit the sugar
shack. Make a stop in the barn and see what the animals are
up to and then stay for a delicious pancake brunch featuring
McCully’s own maple syrup. Weekends starting Saturday,
March 5th to Sunday, March 27th. www.mccullys.ca
Chris and Mary Woolf recently celebrated two years in
business with Little Red’s Pub and Eatery in downtown St.
Marys. The Woolfs have been dedicated and loyal proponents
of the area’s farmers, artisans, and sustainable and organic
producers for two decades. The eatery features a wide
selection of Ontario craft beers and wines. www.littlereds.ca
Railway City Brewery of St. Thomas has launched a new
series that plays on a circus theme. The first entry in Railway
City’s Side Show series is Strong Man, which has been
described as a “big,
We want your
BUZZ!
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that you’d
like us to share? Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario in print,
and thousands more online.
Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly
with our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca
buff, and burly Belgian
dark strong ale.” It’s
10.3 per cent alcohol,
offered in 500 ml bottles
and dressed up with
a red bottle cap for
which you’ll need a
bottle opener. www.
railwaycitybrewing.com
Hope made Delicious!
Participating restaurants
will open their doors for A Taste for Life on Wednesday April
20th and donate 25% of the evening sales to AIDS Service
Organizations in the community. Support men, women and
children in your community by going out to dinner. A Taste for
Life serves the regions of Perth, Huron, Oxford, Elgin, Lambton
and Middlesex counties. www.atasteforlife.org/london.htm
Congratulations to Chef Mark Graham of the Clock
Tower Inn and Strathroy Ale House for winning one of
the Architectural Conservancy Ontario & London Heritage
Council HERITAGE Awards for 2016. The award is being given
to the restaurant for the restoration of a landmark historic
building; converting it into a warm and welcoming inn and
restaurant. www.clocktower-inn.com
A traditional Brazilian delicacy,
perfect for all events!
25 Different
Flavours
226.700.4421 | 519.702.0701
sweetbrigadeiros.ca
Saturdays - Covent Garden Market (London)
Sundays - Perth County Slow Food Market (Stratford)

№ 58 | March/April 2016
Want more maple syrup? Visit Jakeman’s Maple Farm
in Oxford County near Beachville in March and help
support the local 4H clubs by eating delicious pancakes
topped with Jakeman’s Pure Maple Syrup! www.jakemans.
themaplestore.com
Ontario’s Southwest (OSW) is presenting a second City
Fare event on May 26th in Toronto, with support from
local destination marketing organizations. This intimate
tasting event will showcase the region’s wines, craft beers,
and culinary partners. OSW is again partnering with
Yellow Wine Club to coordinate this occasion. www.
ontariossouthwest.com
Steven, David and Grant Sparling have announced plans
to open a new craft brewery in Blyth — Cowbell Brewing
Company. The project, which will also include a brew-pub,
event space and an on-site farm, is expected to take several
months to complete. But early offerings with be available
from the LCBO beginning in May, through a co-packing
agreement with a Hamilton brewery. cowbellbrewing.com
Ontario Premier Kathleen Wynne announced in mid-
February the government’s plan to allow wine sales in a
limited number of grocery stores across the province. The
province will allow imported and domestic wine sales at
up to 150 grocery stores, starting with 70 locations this fall.
These new ventures will join 150 winery retail stores that
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1050 Kipps Lane, London
519-673-6606
www.kippslanefish.com
TUES–THURS: 3–7:30
FRI: 12–7:30 SAT: 3–7:30
Closed SUN & MON
NOW OPEN IN LONDON!
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226 663 5100
WALK-IN GUESTS
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№ 58 | March/April 2016
www.davidsbistro.ca
ALWAYS
a 3-course
prix fixe menu
option
432 Richmond St.
at Carling • London
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed
Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine
• FAMILY
FRIENDLY
• Vegetarian
Options
• Takeout
• Catering
• Reservations
Recommended
ADDIS ABABA Restaurant
LUNCH Tuesday–Friday 11am–1pm by reservation
DINNER Tuesday–Sunday 5–10pm • Closed Monday
465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222
www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
currently operate just outside grocery store checkouts in
the province. Half of the new licences will stipulate the
winning grocery store sell only VQA wines for the first three
years before being allowed to bring in other wines. Ontario
will also allow cider to be sold where beer is available for
purchase in the province.
A new festival is coming to the Town of Leamington
this summer. It will celebrate locally sourced food and
beverages designed to bring chefs, farmers, winemakers,
brewmasters and local food producers together to create
a culinary experience. www.leamington.ca/en/discover/
festivalsandeventsthingstodo.asp
Stratford
Stratford’s sweetest trail yet celebrates the taste of
Ontario’s first crop of the season and is only available
during March and April! The Savour Stratford Maple
Trail takes you on a self-guided taste of maple delights.
Pick up your spoon to enjoy fresh maple syrup atop vanilla
ice cream garnished with maple flakes or refreshing maple
frozen yogurt. Enjoy hand-made maple creams enrobed in
chocolate, copper kettle made maple fudge and traditional
maple sugar candy. Relax while savouring a maple dessert
in a majestic dining room or take away maple mocha java,
or naturally maple-flavoured Ceylon tea, to share with
friends at home. Create your own maple experience from
more than a dozen choices. visitstratford.ca/mapletrail
For over three decades, Keystone Alley Café was both
popular and highly respected. Hospitality stalwarts
Sheldon and Patti Russell retired at the end of October
2015. However, the Russells are still operating The Key’d
Inn, which opened in 1999 and consists of two spacious
suites located above the restaurant, offering stylish bed
and breakfast accommodation. www.keystonealley.com
Revival House Concerts: Amelia Curran with Jory
Nash — March 24. They Promised You Mercy is the latest
collection of songs from Amelia Curran, Canada’s master
contemporary songstress. The Rizdales — April 21. A
tribute to Ray Price with special guests. Lead by husband
and wife songwriting team Tom and Tara Dunphy, the
Rizdales are a hardcore honkytonk band from London,
Ontario with a sound that comes from deep in the American
south. Why not start with dinner before the concert for a
memorable evening in Stratford? www.revival.house.ca
Swan Parade Weekend Celebrations: April 2–3.
Stratford salutes spring with the quirky ritual of marching
the swans to the Avon River. Family fun starts Saturday
downtown with live entertainment, music, street
performers and a quest for decorated swan topiaries and
a chance to win prizes. On Sunday there will be family
entertainment, and food trucks run from 12 noon–3 pm on
Lakeside Drive with the swans parading at 2 pm lead by
the Stratford Police Pipes and Drums. (Swan Parade only
takes place on Sunday) www.visitstratford.ca/swans

№ 58 | March/April 2016
The heart of
Downtown
Strathroy
Welcome
to
Strathroy!
Just down the road ...
35 km to London
A Strathroy Tradition
• Fabulous Sunday Brunch
• Family Dinners
• Fully Licensed by LLBO
• Banquet & Wedding Packages Available
• Take-Out & Delivery Available (ask for details)
• Family Owned & Operated
In recognition of restoring
a historic landmark building,
we just received a 2016
ACO-HLF Heritage Award!
Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s commitment to
fresh, creative, locally-sourced
menus extends to his fullservice
catering to
Strathroy, London
& area. Call for a quote
for your next party
or event!
Sunday
Brunch
10am–2pm
Private Meeting & Banquet Rooms
for groups up to 100
28537 Centre Road, Strathroy
just off Hwy 402 @ Hwy 81 & Second St.
519-245-5400
www.amys-restaurant.com
Historic Post Office & Customs Building
71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500
www.clocktower-inn.com

34 www.eatdrink.ca
Puck’s Plenty Early Spring Foraging — April 16, 23,
30. Join naturalist/forager Peter Blush as he searches forest
trails for springtime wild edibles such as wild leeks, trout
lilies, saddle mushrooms, wild ginger and more, while you
discover the natural beauty of forest and field just a short
drive from Stratford. Learn to harvest these delicious gems
of nature sustainably. Recipes for seasonal wild edibles will
also be supplied. www.pucksplenty.com
Rundles Weekend Cooking Classes: Weekends in April
( Friday-Sunday). Rundles Restaurant provides a unique
culinary experience for those interested in hands on cooking
London’s Destination
for Culinary Excellence
Reserve a
Private Room
for Your
Party!
32
Lunch Tuesday to Friday
Dinner 7 Nights a Week
Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm
1 York Street
519-672-0111
Continental cuisine – with a
contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking.
From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees,
Michael’s makes your celebration an event.
Free On-Site Parking
Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com
for Weekly Specials and Theme Nights Info
Gift Certificates
Make the
Perfect Gift
№ 58 | March/April 2016
under the guidance of one of our country’s most celebrated
chefs — Neil Baxter. Immerse yourself in three fabulous
days of culinary learning. (Accommodation is not included.)
www.rundlesrestaurant.com
Junction 56 Distillery Tours. Come to Stratford’s newest
distillery, specializing in vodka, gin and moonshine. Stop by
on a Saturdays for a lively and informative tour. 45 Cambria
Street. www.junction56.ca
Bijou will be serving Sunday Brunch, presenting “Global
Dim Sum” directly from the Dim Sum cart. Brunches will
commence Sunday, March 27 and continue throughout the
year. The Prix Fixe menu will be available from Thursday,
April 28 through Thanksgiving. Bijou is planning not to close
next winter (expect to hear exciting details early summer).
www.bijourestaurant.com
London
After seven great years in London, Veg Out chef/owner
Florine Morrison announced that she would be closing
Veg Out in April. Culinary stalwarts Yoda Olinyk and Mike
Fish — associates of Morrison —announced in January
they’ll be opening their new restaurant Glassroots in the
premises at 646 Richmond St. after Veg Out closes. Olinyk is
a Red Seal chef who operates a very successful vegetarian
catering company called Yoda’s Kitchen in St. Thomas, and
runs a stall at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market
on Saturdays. Fish, her partner in life and work, is a certified
sommelier and brings years of experience and training in
the wine industry with a goal to offer one of London’s best
wine, craft beer and cocktail lists. Glassroots will be a hub
for healthy food culture, as well as a haven for wine lovers. It
is expected to open in May. www.glassrootslondon.com
Justin and Gregg Wolfe of The Early Bird diner and Rock
au Taco continue to work on their new concept Wolfe of
Wortley. They are trying to bring a new experience to Wortley
Village with a cozy 24-seat restaurant and a 14-seat patio, but
have had a delay in getting the place rezoned by the City. The
concept includes oysters and charcuterie, a frequently changing
shareable menu ... different from pub fare happening in the
neighbourhood now. Expect a May opening date.

№ 58 | March/April 2016
One of our favourite offerings at the London Wine and
Food Show were Farm Boy’s pork belly and kimchee on
hand-made steam buns, by Chef Stephanie Brewster
and her team. Brewster told us that she recently accepted
the GM position at The Royal Botanical Gardens
in Burlington, with Spectra. She is excited about the
opportunity for creativity and building a brand, but we are
going to miss her in London!
Manito’s has moved from the Covent Garden Market to
the former El Ranchito premises on Wellington Road in
SoHo. They specialize in Portuguese style piri-piri rotisserie
chicken, ribs and made-to-order panini press sandwiches.
www.manitos.ca
Fancy Tarts is a family-owned and operated bakeshop,
located at 360 Springbank Drive. Shirley Lassaline and
daughters Melissa Lassaline and Sara Saldana specialize
in from-scratch butter tarts, pies, squares, cakes and loaves.
Call or text in the morning — have a beautiful, hot-out-ofthe-oven
pie for dinner. They are also happy to help with any
corporate and event catering needs. Look for them throughout
the region at home shows, farmers’ markets and summer
festivals. And you can find them on Facebook, anytime!
Sasa and Branka Milidrag’s Euro Pastry has moved to 467
Dundas Street. Only pure, high quality natural ingredients
are used in their baking, with no added chemicals or
Your Premium
Destination
“Creative,
local and
sustainable
dishes ...”
639 Peel Street, Woodstock
519-536-9602
www.sixthirtynine.com
Reservations
Recommended
109 Dundas St, London
519-204-0173
lerendezvousldn.com

RTIES
Come HOME to La Casa!
2 for 20
2-Course
Lunch
$20
117 King Street
across from Budweiser Gardens
519-434-2272 (CASA)
www.lacasaristorante.com
“Enjoy consistently
outstanding Italian and
International cuisine
enhanced by local and
seasonal ingredients.”
A
London
Landmark
for
22
Years!
Perfect for Small Weddings & Receptions!
Extensive
Scotch Bar
Open Mon–Sat
Lunch & Dinner
142 fullarton at richmond
№ 58 | March/April 2016
preservatives. Inspired by the classic European baking canon,
cookies, cakes (Sacher tortes, Black Forest and Moscow Snit),
pastries, bureks, strudels and savouries are made in-house
daily, from scratch. The bakery has expanded its menu to
include goulash, cabbage rolls, vegetables soups and take-out
lunches, especially enjoyed by students at Catholic Central
high school across the street and Beal secondary school, a
block east. Quality and a high level of service are the hallmarks
of the hands-on owners.www.europastrylo.ca
The Western Fair District is now taking applications for
the 2016 Agricultural Leadership Intern Program. This
program is designed to expand the student’s knowledge of
the importance of agriculture, ag-education programming
and public service. It will also provide learning and
professional experiences for the intern. It is a paid position.
Submit your application by Friday, March 25.
Bill Reath and the folks at Kinehdn Maple Sugar
Company at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market
feature fine maple products, maple sugar, syrup, BBQ sauce,
maple mustard and more. Passionate about their products,
they love making people happy, and are proud to serve
traditional candy apples with a maple syrup coating and
maple suckers that are 100% pure maple syrup.
Since 1972, the Kinsmen Club of Greater London has
been providing outdoor family fun at Fanshawe Sugar
Bush. There are demonstrations of tree tapping, and
sap lines, craft demonstrations, musicians and displays
by community groups, and mouth-watering pancakes!
The sugar bush will be open during March Break and on
weekends in March.www.kinsmenfanshawesugarbush.com.
Restaurateur Marvin Rivas, who blends tradition and
innovation in true Latin American style at his chic downtown
hot-spot, Che Restobar, will reopen for lunch Monday to
Friday beginning in March. Chefs Chris Lamb and Brian
Honsinger will launch a new dinner menu as well as a
lunch-time tapas-style menu from Monday to Wednesday.
www.cherestobar.ca
The YOU Made It Café is open Monday to Friday from
7:30 am to 2:30pm. The café is the perfect place to have
breakfast, lunch or to purchase a seasonal soup, salad,
gourmet sandwich or panini to go. You can even order in
advance for pick-up. Each month, YOU, through its YOU Made
It Café, partners with a local guest chef for the Cornerstone
Cuisine Dinner Series. The evening event features
customized prix fixe dinner menus for attendees, which
caters to a specific cultural cuisine. www.you.ca/cafe/
We appreciate the London Wine Bar experience, which to us
means you can stop by without a reservation, sit at the bar or
at a table, and sample some interesting wine features by the
glass, then move on to your next stop in the area—or take
refuge if you really want to unwind. Inspired by traditional
Parisian wine bars, Mario Jozic and Laura Del Maestro strive
to make quality wine approachable while creating a relaxed and

№ 58 | March/April 2016
hospitable atmosphere. There is a limited focus on Ontario wines
but many international selections. To complement the wine
selection, they feature a range of charcuterie-type boards with
cured meats, locally-sourced cheeses and a variety of chocolate
products created exclusively for pairing with wine by Forrat’s
Chocolates. www.londonwinebar.ca
Tourism London is proud to announce that the Country
Music Association of Ontario (CMAO) will host regional
showcase and artist seminars in London, Ontario on March 19.
The CMAO will present member artists with the opportunity to
perform at The Bull & Barrel Urban Saloon located in the
heart of downtown London. www.london.bullandbarrel.com
The Winter Indoor Farmers’ Market at Covent Garden
Market Farmers’ Market, on Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm.,
runs to March 19th upstairs on the mezzanine. A special
Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market will operate on
Saturday, March 26th 8 am to 1pm. You can expect some of
your favourite farmers, bakers and crafters to be on hand.
Help raise $50,000 in vital funds for Meals on Wheels
London programs and services. Join in at the annual fundraiser
Move for Wheels (formerly Walk for Wheels) on Friday, March
18, 2016 at Covent Garden Market. www.meals-on-wheels.ca/
how-can-i-help/move-wheels-fundraiser
Freshii has opened a second location downtown inside the
Goodlife in Citi Plaza.
A recent addition to London’s varied ethic cuisine scene,
Bamyan Afghan Cuisine at 573 Richmond (just north
of Albert Street) is where you can find traditional Afghan
plates, including delicious, freshly barbecued, sizzling
kababs with hot tandoori naans. The cuisine has similarities
to Indian food. www.bamyanafghancuisine.ca
Twisted Toque, the Canadian-themed restaurant in
the former Brass Door premises at the Park Lane Hotel, is
expected to open in May. www.twistedtoquelondon.com
Linda D’Andrea tells us that Black Trumpet is enjoying a
very successful partnership with the Grand Theatre’s Dining
and Show program. Black Trumpet is also participating in
Tastings on May 5. Tastings is a London Health Sciences
Cancer Care fundraiser, sponsored by CIBC, and held at the
London Hunt Club. www. tastings.lhsf.ca
Chef Jason Eccles and Chef James Smith at La Casa
and Chef Scott Wesseling at Black Trumpet continue
to feature their 2 for $20 two-course lunch. www.
lacasaristorante.com & www.blacktrumpet.ca
Petit Paris is proud to present the The Coop Rotisserie at the
Covent Garden Market. The Coop will focus on simple rotisserie
chicken dinners with several sauce and side choices that include
fresh cut fries, a selection of fresh salads, daily soups, and
delectable desserts baked every day by Petit Paris. The Coop will
also be offering a simple but delicious breakfast menu from 8–11
am Monday–Saturday and Sundays 11am–4pm. Take out, or
eat local.
listen local.
shop local.
502 adelaide st. n, london
theboomboxbakeshop.com
café • vegfriendly goodies • special orders
Serving up authentic & tasty
Creole & Cajun Cuisine
London’s New Orleans Vibe
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Desserts
Live Music • Cooking Classes
Corporate Events • Team Building
OPEN
DAILY
519.667.2000
www.bourbonstreetlondon.ca
587 Oxford Street, London

№ 58 | March/April 2016
481 Richmond St., London
519.432.4092
dine@garlicsoflondon.com
www.garlicsoflondon.com
100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table
Hormone & Drug-Free
Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb
THE VILLAGE
MEAT SHOP
LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY
Now
accepting
orders for
Easter
lamb
dine in their new seating area and enjoy the real “Market Feel”
that the Covent Garden Market offers.
Havaris Produce has opened Sacred Earth Whole Foods,
specializing in organic produce, in the premises formerly
occupied by Fraumeni’s Fruits and Vegetables at the Covent
Garden Market. The Havaris family business has been
associated with the Market since 1912.
Paul L. Smith is known for his personal touch at the Covent
Garden Market, harkening back to the time when he was
assisting his father with a fruit and vegetable business founded
in 1880 by his grandfather Chancey Smith. Hasbeans has been
roasting and shipping fresh, specialty-grade, gourmet coffee
across Canada since 1969. Promoting the distinct qualities that
each coffee bean develops within its’ natural environment,
Hasbeans has become a market staple for their Fair Trade brew
and one-of-a-kind personal touch. www.hasbeans.ca
The Braywick Bistro and Amici Restaurant have closed.
Treat yourself to an unforgettable culinary experience as you
dine in style at the Idlewyld Inn restaurant, surrounded by
the elegance of their Victorian mansion. The 70-seat dining
room offers a locally-inspired menu of contemporary and
traditional favourites and decadent desserts, complemented
by a selection of award-winning wines, and draughts and
ales on tap. Sunday Brunch. www.Idlewyld.com
an experience to savour ...
•
2 for
20
Two-Course
Lunch for $20
Open Mon–Sat
• casual fine dining
• stunning
architecture
• world-inspired
cuisine enhanced
by local seasonal
ingredients
• private dining rooms
for lunch & dinner
Ideal for Small
Weddings
or Receptions!
WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR
Metzger Meat Products • The Whole Pig
Blanbrook Bison Farm • Lena’s Lamb
Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm
226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca
523 Richmond St. London www.blacktrumpet.ca
RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca

Dine
• Shop • Stay • Play
Enjoy
Ontario’s
West Coast
A Fresh Take on Tradition
Re-Opening
Weekends
in APRIL
Come for dinner
or a romantic getaway
on the Huron Shore
Stylish German Cuisine
Distinctive Accommodations
Join Us for our
Spring Wedding & Event Fair
the last weekend in April!
www.hessenland.com
RR #2 Zurich ON
Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend,
1 hour from London
519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736
Discover
Our New
COMFORT
MENU!
Details online
Seasonal Hours
Always Closed Monday
Reservations Recommended
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend
www.finearestaurant.com

40 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
in the garden
Dreams in a Packet
The Time To Plan Your Spring Garden Is NOW!
By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN
Every gardener gets through the
winter by dreaming of spring
and the new growth
it brings. Seeds
are the gardeners’
dreams in a packet.
The number of
available varieties
gets better each
season, making
seed selection an
exciting pursuit year
after year. Ask your seed
seller for advice on new
varieties, or if you are unsure
about what to grow.
There is great interest in heirloom varieties,
as these offer great flavour, proven success,
and some natural resistance to problems. A
common problem home gardeners face is
the dreaded tomato blight. Blight is either
in the ground or airborne — it just arrives
on the wind — and can be very hard to
control. Varieties have been discovered that
were bred for tomato blight resistance (and
other problems in the garden, like powdery
mildew).
The term breeding refers to the
hybridization of plants. A hybrid is two
varieties bred together (cross-pollinated)
to get the best traits of both. This happens
in nature all the time, as pollinators travel
from flower to flower and crosspollinate.
The seed from the
hybridized plant will
not re-produce itself.
Seed companies
can sell a hybrid
seed by knowing
the “recipe” of
seed combinations
to get a specific
variety. Hybrids
Iron Lady Tomato
are not genetically
modified in any way. They
are usually identified on the
seed packet by the notation “F1.”
One new variety this season that will be
exciting to try is the “Iron Lady Tomato,”
developed by High Mowing Organic Seeds
with Cornell University and North Carolina
State University. It is a mid-sized, great
flavoured tomato with impressive resistance
to late blight (most common) and the stems
and branches resist early blight. It is also
resistant to fusarium wilt, verticillum wilt and
seporia leaf spot. This is a bit technical but if
you have ever had your tomatoes wiped out
by blight you should try this variety!
One other thing you can do to deter blight
is to keep your garden clean. If you did get
blight or other diseases, remove all of that
"Paradise Mix" Echinacea
Cerinthe
“Climbing Phoenix”
Nasturtium

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 41
plant material and dispose of it or burn it.
Do not compost it! Mulching, after planting
your garden, also helps keep diseases that
are in the ground, in the ground and not on
your plants.
An heirloom flower from Renee’s Garden
Seed has been re-introduced for spring 2016.
The “Climbing Phoenix” Nasturtium is a
split-petal, vining nasturtium dating back to
the 19th century that has not been offered for
sale in years. Its unique petals, shaped like
little flames, are sure to be a standout. The
flowers range in colour through crimsonred,
rich gold, fiery orange, warm cream and
soft peach, offering bright bold and pastel
blossom shades. Another great reason to
grow this, as with all nasturtiums, is that
both leaves and flowers are edible, offering
a mild peppery flavour note. They are also a
prolifically flowering plant, and wonderful as
a border or in containers. The vining element
offers great possibilities for containers as
an upright feature with some support, or
left to cascade over the edge. Ontario Seed
Company (OSC) also has a mounding version
of the Phoenix nasturtium.
Pollinator plants are very much
requested, and a very popular choice to
help nature maintain some balance for
the bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and
other pollinators. Some of the beautiful
and bountiful varieties to look for are
Anise Hyssop, Verbena Bonariensis and
Cerinthe. Many native varieties are also great
pollinators and make attractive garden plants.
These include Butterfly Weed (a member
of the milkweed family, with bold beautiful
orange flowers), Echinacea or Cone Flower
(with striking flower heads in an attractive
purple), Black-eyed Susan (great black and
soft orange flowers), and Bee Balm (with
gorgeous colours from pale to deep pinks and
rosy lavender). Pollinators are the preferred
plants of birds and insects seeking a good
food source that reliably produces nectar and
is easily accessible for feeding.
If you grow plants from seeds, . Growing
from seed is rewarding, educational and
economical. To grow your plants from seed
start a minimum of six to eight weeks before
the last frost, which usually occurs between
May 24th and June 1st. After that you can
safely plant out the seedlings you have
nurtured, or seed directly outdoors without
any worries.
Check out the 2016 seed selections and try
something new!
Local Seed Suppliers
Anything Grows SEED Co. • Saturdays at The Western Fair
Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market • anythinggrows.com
Canadale Nurseries • 269 Sunset Dr, St. Thomas • canadale.ca
Cozyn’s Garden Gallery • 680 Huron St, Stratford •
cozynsgardengallery.ca
Heeman’s • 20422 Nissouri Rd, London • heeman.ca
Klomp’s Nursery & Garden Centre • 3994 Line 20, Saint
Pauls Station • klomps.net
Parkway Gardens • 1473 Gainsborough Rd, London •
parkwaygardens.ca
Van Luyk Greenhouses and Garden Centre • 1728
Gore Rd, London •vanluyk.com
Online Catalogue Seed Sources
Floribunda Seeds • Indian River • florabundaseeds.com
Hawthorn Farm Organic Seeds • Palmerston •
hawthornfarm.ca
Ontario Seed Co. • Waterloo • oscseeds.com
Richters Herbs • Goodwood • richters.com
William Dam Seeds • Dundas • williamdam.ca
RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own
Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be
found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays,
and at various gardening events around the region.
Tithonia
Hyssop
Asclepias Tuberosa
(Butterfly Weed)

42 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 56 | November/December 2015
wine
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery
The vines, the wines, and the wine club
By GARY KILLOPS
Tanya Mitchell, the winemaker at
Sprucewood Shores Estate winery,
is about to take a small group on a
“Wine Club member’s only” tour of
the winery. She starts by pouring everyone
a glass of bubbly. “This is our new sparkling
riesling. We host quite a few weddings here
and there was a demand for a sparkling
wine. I hope you like it.”
Tanya begins by talking about the history of
the winery. In the mid-1970s, her parents Gord
and Hanna Mitchell purchased a 52-acre farm
on the shores of Lake Erie, near Amherstburg
Ontario. Gord had an interest in wine, and
in 1991 he planted a few acres of vines to see
what would grow best in the farm’s Perth clay
soil. He was a pioneer grape grower in the
area. When others said that varietals such
as cabernet franc, merlot and even cabernet
sauvignon would not grow in Essex County, he
knew they could. More vines were planted in
the following years and about ten years after
that began the planning for a winery.
Tanya Mitchell gained experience by
making wine in Niagara, France and
Australia. In 2004 she became the youngest
wine maker in Ontario when the first harvest
from the family vineyard was used for the
winery that her father had envisioned.
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery opened
in 2006 with a large, elegant building that
overlooks Lake Erie, and a production facility
Amidst acres of grape vines, the winery’s
elegant building overlooks Lake Erie
Winemaker Tanya Mitchell
surrounded by the rows of grape vines.
The sudden death of Gord Mitchell in
2011 shocked the local wine community. The
winery has always been a family operation.
From early in the morning until late in the
evening Gord had been either out in the
vineyard or working in the winery’s retail
store. Tanya’s two brothers Stephen and Jake
and her sister Marlaina have all stepped up to
help fill the void left after their father’s death.
As the group that Tanya is taking the tour
on finishes up their sparkling wine they raise
their glasses in a toast to Gord Mitchell.
Tanya leads the group into the production
area of the winery and offers tank samples of
the 2015 rieslings that the winery will release
this spring. The first wine from the steel
tank will be sold at the LCBO this summer.
Currently the 2014 vintage is available at the
winery and at the LCBO for $13.95. Crisp
acidity and just a touch of sweetness make
this a very friendly, easy drinking white
wine. The second riesling sampled was
much sweeter. Tanya says that this will
be the winery’s reserve wine.
The winery has grown in production
and size over the years. With the recent
completion of the vineyard reception
hall, Sprucewood Shores can now host
weddings and other special events all
year round. “There is a demand for
weddings at our winery,” Tanya said.
The picturesque views have caught

№ 58 | March/April 2016
the attention of many couples, and the hall is
booked well into 2017.
The group tour ends back in the winery’s
retail store. With the exception of a few reserve
wines most bottles are affordably priced —
between $13 and $18. “Making quality Ontario
wine at a reasonable price was something my
Dad always believed in doing,” says Tanya.
Sprucewood Shores wines have become
popular with many local restaurants and can
often be found on the “wine by the glass”
lists. “Several of our wines are available at the
LCBO too,” says Tanya Mitchell. The winery
recently started a wine club offering different
packages of wine for home delivery, from
monthly deliveries to seasonable and special
occasion packages. Member benefits include:
• 15% discount on non-wine merchandise
• early notification of library releases
(older vintages not currently available
for sale)
• a wine club members-only postcrushed
and fermented wine seminar
in the second week of January.
Here are two recommendations from
the Sprucewood Shores list:
Sprucewood Shores Lady In Red
($14.95, LCBO# 266486) — A tasty
blend of 40% cabernet sauvignon,
35% merlot and 25% cabernet
franc. Very aromatic fresh
blackberry, plum and vanilla
notes. Very food friendly,
pairs well with pasta and
tomato based sauces,
burgers and chicken wings.
Sprucewood Shores Pinot
Grigio ($14.95, LCBO# 426577) —
Dry, crisp and clean. A delicious
sipping wine. Fruity apple, lemon
and pear notes. Pairs well with light
white fish and seafood dishes.
Starting January 25, 2016
Second Session Late June
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery
7258 County Road 50 West, Harrow ON
You may need to use “Amherstburg” rather than “Harrow”
when entering the city location into a GPS device.
519-738-9253
www.sprucewoodshores.com
open daily 11am–5pm
GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk,
taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on
EssexWineReview.com

44 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
BEER MATTERS
beer matters
To Your Health! — Literally
Some Surprising Health Benefits for Beer Drinkers
By THE MALT MONK
Have you been feeling guilty about
your craft beer obsession? You
say your significant other would
prefer you drink something
“healthier.” Well, shed
your guilt, brethren of
the brew. Contrary to
popular misconceptions,
all-natural beer truly is the
miracle food — health in
a glass.
New studies are demonstrating
that consuming
fresh, all-natural beer can
yield surprising health
benefits. Just remember,
we’re talking moderate
consumption (one or two
pints a day before or with
a healthy meal). Here are
some study results that
may change your perceptions of your favourite
beverage.
Cancer: Many studies have identified
xanthohumol as a powerful anti-cancer agent
which aids in ridding your system of cancerrelated
protein compounds. Fortunately for
craft beer acolytes, our beer contains this
important antioxidant in significant quantities.
The conclusion of these studies was that
moderate beer drinking reduces certain
cancer-causing enzymes — specifically, those
linked to prostate and breast cancer.
Dementia: Your
hunch may be right!
Maybe you are smarter
after a few pints. The
silicon content in beer
is believed to guard the
brain against metallic
toxicity, particularly
aluminum. A high level
of aluminum in the brain
is said to be one of the
causes of Alzheimer’s.
Loyola University School
of Medicine researchers
reviewed several recent
studies and concluded
that moderate beer drinkers were less likely
to develop different forms of dementia
and perceptual disablement — including
Alzheimer’s. So drink smart and stay away
from aluminum cans — have a crafted draft
pint in a glass.
Diabetes: A Harvard study found there
was a 25% less risk of developing type 2
One of 2014’s
TOP 10
Beer Bars
in Canada

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 45
diabetes in beer tipplers compared to nonimbibers.
Apparently darker unfiltered beers
are a good source of soluble fiber, which
plays an active role in treating the onset
of diabetes. Also, an increase in insulin
sensitivity is triggered by the lighter alcohol
content in beer. Hops in beer contain
isohumulones, a natural form of insulin
which helps treat diabetes.
Kidney Stones: You can reduce your
risk of kidney stones by an amazing 40% by
tipping a pint or two daily, according to a
recent Finnish study which concluded that
beer’s high content of pure water helps flush
the kidneys of toxins. The alpha acids from
hops prevented kidney stones while beer’s
silicon content prevents the loss of bone
calcium (a leading cause of kidney stones).
Heart Disease: Italy’s Fondazion di
Ricerca e Cura found that people who drank
a pint of beer daily reduced their chance
of heart disease by 31%. Beer’s natural
antioxidants (phenols) seem to be an agent
in healthy heart function.
Stroke: The benefits of beer just keep
pouring. The American Stroke Association
studies state there is an incredible 50%
reduction in stroke risk for moderate beer
drinkers compared to non-drinkers. The
Harvard School of Public Health deduced
that moderate beer intake prevents the blood
clots which are the leading cause of stroke.
Bone Density: Chemical analysis of beer
reveals it contains high levels of silicon — an
element vital to bone health. A Tufts University
study revealed that regular beer consumption
gave older beer tipplers higher rates of bone
density than those who did not drink beer. This
was attributed to the silicon content in beer.
Cholesterol: If you’re looking for a fun
way to improve your cholesterol level,
quaffing a crafted pint daily could provide
the motivation. The grains used in the
brewing of craft beer contain soluble fibers
known as beta-glucans. Studies have shown
this natural compound to be instrumental in
lowering cholesterol levels.
Blood Pressure: Women may be
interested to find out that their favourite
beverage factors into managing proper
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46 www.eatdrink.ca
blood pressure levels. Another Harvard
study has found that female beer tipplers
aged 25 to 40 had significantly less risk of
developing high blood pressure conditions
compared to women who drank wine or
other alcoholic beverages.
Acne: Recent studies have confirmed that
beer sediment (brewer’s yeast) can reduce/
improve acne by slowing down sebum
production and killing off the bacteria that
triggers acne. This component of beer, the
inactive (flocculated) brewing yeast, helps
maintain a balanced pH level in the skin.
Malt Monk Recommendations
I don’t know how you’ve been staving off the
winter doldrums, but at my favourite craft beer
bistro we have seen a lot of new European
imports making an appearance on the
tap handle forest. Of course there are
always the benchmark Euro brews but
recently some lesser known premium
Euro brewers have been distributing
their bistro-grade draft beers
through import agents and The
Beer Store. These beers are
available in new smaller capacity
disposable draft kegs for bars,
restaurants, clubs or parties. Here are my
impressions of some that I have tasted in the
last few weeks.
Jopen Hoppenbier (available in kegs from
The Beer Store) — A truly unique and
remarkable brew from this Haarlem
Netherlands craft brewer which defies
categorization. Its claims to fame are
the use of three grains (barley, wheat
and oats) in brewing, and being
double hopped with Hallertau
hops. The hazy golden brew starts
at the nose with a demure fresh
fragrance of mild fruit aromas and spicy
bay leaf tones. The palate receives substantial
body and maltiness for such a crisp hoppy
beer, with a spicy clove and bay leaf under
tone. Crisp dry bitter finish — a wonderful
twist on a Belgian golden ale and a must try.
Ottakringer Wiener Original (Beer
Store kegs available) — An actual
Vienna lager from Vienna of all
places — this is not exactly the
traditional red lager but a modern
interpretation of Anton Dreher’s
elegant soft lager. It is made with
№ 58 | March/April 2016
Dandruff: Your grandmother might have
known that beer is a natural treatment
for dandruff. What they probably didn’t
know was that this was because of the high
vitamin B content in beer from yeast. Rinse
your hair with a pint of beer regularly —
it’ll make your hair soft and shiny. But the
pungent scent may attract bar flies.
The Final Word: These studies were
conducted with subjects who moderately
consume pure adjunct-free beer. Enjoy
those guiltless pints — they’re
good fer ya!
traditional Viennese pale
malt and red melanoidin malt,
and premium grade Saaz hops.
The results are a brew with eyecatching
amber-orange colour and
an aroma and taste which reveal a
defined nutty and elegant malt tone.
Opulent malting with a dry finish
leaving a distinct, yet smooth bitterness
on the palate. This highly drinkable
creation would pair well with
traditional Viennese cuisine.
Åbro Bryggmästarens
Premium Gold (lcbo #433508
in cans, or on tap) — This
seems at first blush to be an
undistinguished Euro lager — but
looks can deceive. I recommend
the kegged version as it seemed
to me to taste better (fresher) on
tap. What sets this strong Swedish
golden lager apart is that it’s made
by one of the last independent family
breweries in Sweden in a traditional
eight-stage process, which includes a
substantial cold aging cycle. The
result is a surprisingly rounded,
mellow, malty golden lager
which displays balance,
rich flavour and great
drinkabilty — pretty much
everything you could want in
a bistro lager.
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R.
Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer
culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at
maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 47
on the boards
The Band Play’s On
Glenn Grainger’s Manuel Premieres This Spring
By RICK YOUNG
Playwright Glenn Grainger has
spent the last seven years of his life
researching and drafting scripts
for his play, Manuel, the story of
Richard Manuel, a founding member of the
seminal North American rock/roots group
The Band, as told through the eyes of Al
Manuel, his last remaining brother.
Working alongside Grainger at various
points for the past five years has been
award-winning director John Pacheco,
who has been getting ready for production
and casting roles for its characters. This
spring their partnership will culminate
with the world premiere of Manuel, a
joint production of Blues Canvas Concert
Productions and Pacheco Theatre, at
Western University’s Paul Davenport Theatre
from April 26 to May 1.
For the uninitiated, The Band evolved
out of The Hawks, the stellar back-up band
that accompanied Canadian Music Hall of
Fame member Rompin’ Ronnie Hawkins, a
transplanted Arkansas rockabilly musician
who found fame and fortune in his adopted
country in the late 1950s and early 1960s.
The original line-up consisted of
American drummer Levon Helm and
Canadians Robbie Robertson on guitar,
Garth Hudson on keyboards, Rick Danko
on bass,
and Richard
Manuel —
all of whom
hailed from
southwestern
Ontario.
After being
chosen to
accompany
Bob Dylan on
his “electric”
tours in 1965
and 1966, the
group moved to New York and released its
critically-acclaimed debut album Music from
Big Pink in 1968. The Band would record 10
studio albums, ending its run as the original
configuration in 1976 with The Last Waltz
farewell concert, immortalized in the Martin
Scorsese documentary film. The group
recommenced touring without Robertson in
1983, but finished with the untimely suicide of
founding member Richard Manuel in 1986.
I spoke with playwright Glenn Grainger and
director John Pacheco about the play, about
Richard Manuel, rock and roll, the challenges
of bringing Manuel’s life to the stage, and
what audiences can expect. What follows is an
abridged version of that discussion.
The Band, on the Ed Sullivan Show, on Nov. 2, 1969
Richard Manuel, pianist, drummer and vocalist

48 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
Who was Richard Manuel, and why does he merit a
play written about him?
Glenn Grainger (GG) — Richard Manuel was
an immense talent as a musician, songwriter
and especially as a soulful
vocalist. To this point, there
has been a bewildering lack
of canonization of his talent
through storytelling. This
play aims to kick open the
door. The play focuses on
Richard’s talent and also the
relationship he had with his
last remaining brother Al. Al
was a teacher at my middle
school in Elmira, Ontario.
I knew the family quite
well and was close friends
with one of Al’s daughters.
I have been a fan of The
Band since my mid-teens.
Since beginning the process
of writing this play, I have
got to know the extended
members of the family,
including Richard’s son.
Why have you chosen to tell the story through the
eyes of Al Manuel?
GG — Fans of The Band can find out information
about Richard’s public life quite
readily via the internet, articles, and videos.
There has been a good amount of information
about his struggle
with alcohol and
other substances and
his subsequent suicide.
What is not well
known to the public is
the impact Richard’s
struggles had on the
family and in particular
Al. So this is a once
private family story
that Al has had the
courage to make public.
Al understands the
potential value this
story will have to break down stigma and
help others in finding the strength to talk
about important issues that affect all of us.
Al also has light and funny memories of his
relationship with Richard that are included
in the play. As Richard’s last remaining
brother, Al is also one of the last remaining
family connections to these stories. Al also
Playwright Glenn Grainger
Richard Manuel and Bob Dylan, circa 1967
connects us to a time in our local history, as
the Manuel family was from Stratford.
Is this play a cautionary tale about fame and fortune
and life on the road as a musician?
GG — More than just a
cautionary tale, the play
is about resolve and
strength of the human
spirit. What interested
me as a writer and as
someone who works in
mental health, are the
ways in which a brother
finds strength to carry on
after tragedy. Al’s life is
an inspiring testament to
how one keeps going. It is
also a chronicle of how he
has come to understand
the way in which Richard
lived and died.
Has there been any
involvement by the surviving
members of The Band?
GG — I have had two occasions
to speak with Garth Hudson and I told
him about the play. Garth was quite helpful
in sharing background information related to
Richard’s pure joy of making music. I have also
spoken with Ronnie Hawkins. Robbie Robertson
keeps a lower, more private profile. I have
been provided with
insights from long
time cohorts about
the incredible, positive
emotional impact
of Richard Manuel’s
voice and music.
Information about
The Band in the play
is provided only to
give context and as a
backdrop to the main
storyline. Our play is
about blood brothers.
Why has Pacheco
Theatre chosen this particular play for its Spring 2016
production? Does the fact that this is the play’s world
premiere bring any added pressure to this series of
performances?
John Pacheco (JP) — When Glenn and I
met through a mutual friend, Mike Froome,
about five years ago, the script was still in
its early stages and at that time, Glenn and

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 49
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50 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
I, along with several London actors did a
read-through of that draft. Glenn was hoping
to stage the play in 2012, but the timing just
wasn’t right. After the
first read-through, Glenn
made more changes, thus
creating our annual readthrough
with different
actors over the last four
years. Each draft drew us
closer to where we are
today. While going through
the rewrites, we wanted to
time the opening of Manuel
with 2016, as it’s the 30th
anniversary of Richard’s
death on March 4.
I think presenting a
play with Richard as the
subject matter already
comes with its own
pressure to present the
facts well, knowing how
sensitive the material
is and how well loved
Richard and The Band
are. So, yes, it being a world premiere does
add pressure, and much like Glenn said,
“This play aims to kick open the door.”
John, what can you tell me about casting for Manuel?
JP — Casting was an ongoing process for
Manuel during our five-year collaboration.
The play has 17 cast members, including some
familiar names and newcomers. John Garlicki
plays Al Manuel, while Stephen Ingram
captures the essence of Richard Manuel.
GG — The five-piece band
Driftwood was formed
specifically to provide
the music for Manuel.
Band members are
Stephen Ingram, Brandon
McHugh, Greg Williams,
Jeff Lupker, and Igor Saika.
Why is the play being staged at
the Western University campus, as
opposed to Pacheco Theatre’s usual
location, McManus Theatre?
GG — The 400 seat Paul
Davenport Theatre was chosen
as it lends itself very well to the production
of this particular play. Its facilities are simply
outstanding.
What else should our readers know about Manuel?
GG — As well as dramatic through dialogue,
the play is quite lively. Audience members
should arrive early as
the doors open an hour
before each performance
and live music will be
played by Driftwood
before each performance.
Part of the proceeds
of the play will go to
support The Richard G.
Manuel Music Award
which goes to a welldeserving
performance
music student at the Don
Wright Faculty of Music
at Western University.
Terry Danko, the play’s
Music Consultant and
brother of Rick Danko,
is a special guy and a
special musician whose
talent speaks for itself.
Director John Pacheco He is intimately familiar
with the music of the
play having spent time in his brother Rick
Danko’s band and having spent many
years with Ronnie Hawkins. Terry was also
present at Shangri La music studios in
Malibu during the mid-’70s when The Band
recorded there. He has performed on stage
with Levon Helm and Garth Hudson. He
also performed gigs with Richard Manuel
in the late ’70s and early ’80s. It’s an honour
to have him help our band
Driftwood whose members
are all proficient musicians
themselves. Terry’s insight
and help is invaluable. The
guys have truly appreciated
having him with us.
MANUEL, a joint production of
BLUES CANVAS CONCERT
PRODUCTIONS and
PACHECO THEATRE, plays
at Western University’s Paul
Davenport Theatre from April 26 to May
1. Tickets are available through the Grand Theatre Box
Office at grandtheatre.com, 519-672-8800.
RICK YOUNG is a regular contributor to eatdrink. .

№ 58 | March/April 2016
YEARS
RESEARCH
and
FAMILY
SUPPORT
1996 - 2016

52 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
the classical beat
Spring Strings
By NICOLE LAIDLER
The Jeffery Concerts begin the busy
spring season when the Toronto
Symphony Orchestra Chamber
Soloists perform a program of
French music on March 19.
Comprised of the TSO’s principal musicians
— Jonathan Crow, violin; Teng Li, viola;
Joseph Johnson, cello;
Nora Schulman, flute; and
Heidi Van Hoese Gorton,
harp — the combination of
winds, strings and harp give
the ensemble the flexibility
to present a wide range of
rarely performed repertoire,
along with some of the best
loved works in the chamber
music literature.
Highlights of the
Saturday night concert
include Debussy’s popular
Sonata for Flute, Violin
and Harp, as well as the
lesser-known Fantasie
for Violin and Harp by
Saint-Saëns. “I think our
audience will enjoy the
diversity of this program, as well as being
able to hear the harp both solo and as an
accompanying instrument,” says Jeffery
Concerts board member Ingrid Crozman.
On April 8, the chamber music series
marks the half-way point in its presentation
of the complete Beethoven string quartets.
“We are pleased to have the Pacifica
Quartet back to perform,” says Crozman,
adding that the final three all-Beethoven
concerts will take place next season. “The
concept has been very well received.
We’ve created a good buzz about it,” she
adds. “The quartets were written during
different creative periods of his life, so even
though it’s a whole concert of Beethoven it
remains interesting because you hear his
development as a composer.”
Music by a less-familiar composer
rounds out the month, when soprano
Performing Janáček’s The Diary of One Who
Disappeared are, clockwise from the left,
soprano Krisztina Szabó, tenor Benjamin
Butterfield and pianist Arthur Rowe
Krisztina Szabó, tenor Benjamin Butterfield
and pianist Arthur Rowe join forces April
30 for Janáček’s The Diary of One Who
Disappeared. The rarely-performed song
cycle, written between 1917 and 1919, tells
the story of a love affair between a young
peasant boy and a gypsy. Szabó, Butterfield
and Rowe performed
the work together in
Dallas in 2014 to rave
reviews, and Crozman
says The Jeffery Concerts
are delighted to bring
them together again for
a repeat performance in
London.
All concerts take place
at Wolf Performance Hall.
www.jefferyconcerts.com
The Karen Schuessler
Singers shine the
spotlight on some homegrown
talent with London
Composers Exposed!,
April 2 at Wesley-Knox
United Church.
KSS director Karen Schuessler says
audiences are often fearful of instrumental
music written by living composers. “But in
the choral world — especially in Canada —
living composers are honoured and enjoyed.
We wanted to showcase the composers
who live among us, who can describe their
creative process and thereby celebrate our
concert theme of creativity,” she continues.
The program includes music by Bert
Van Der Hoek, Stephen Holowitz, Kevin
White, Matthew Emery, Donald Cook, Jeff
Christmas, Jeff Smallman, Steven Hardy,
and Brian Ratcliffe, and includes several
compositions commissioned by KSS.
“We know that London is a Canadian
hot bed for choirs and theatre groups,”
Schuessler says. “And we would like to get
the idea going that London is a true creative
city.” www.kssingers.com

Arthur Rowe
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
2015–2016
All concerts at 8 pm
at Wolf Performance Hall
251 Dundas, London
All ticket sales through
Grand Theatre Box Office
519.672.8800
grandtheatre.com
Special thanks to
www.jefferyconcerts.com
Saturday
March 19, 2016
Toronto
Symphony Orchestra
Chamber
Soloists
Saint-Saëns: Le Cygne (The Swan)
Debussy: Sonata for Flute, Viola & Harp
Saint-Saëns: Fantasie for Violin and Harp
Ravel: Pavane pour une infante défunte
Friday
April 8, 2016
Pacifica Quartet
SECOND ALL-BEETHOVEN CONCERT
Saturday
April 30, 2016
Janáček:
A rarely performed song cycle
Quartet in C minor, Op. 18, No. 4 The Diary of One Who Disappeared
Quartet in B-Flat Major, Op. 18, No. 6
Krisztina Szabó, soprano
Quartet in F Major, Op. 59, No. 1
Benjamin Butterfield, tenor
Arthur Rowe, piano
London’s own The Light of East Ensemble
celebrates ten years of music-making, April
16 at Aeolian Hall.
The group, founded by Panayiotis
Giannarapis in 2006, performs an
extensive repertoire that encompasses
traditional, folk, classical Arabic,
Sephardic, and Greek rembetika, as well
as 20th century urban music from the
Near and Middle East.
“Londoners have embraced our
music from day one because it’s very
nostalgic,” says Giannarapis. Expanding
into other musical cultures over the past
decade has kept the group’s repertoire
fresh and helped to attract new
audiences, he adds.
The concert also marks the official
launch of LOEE’s second CD Live at
the Aeolian, released by Sunfest and funded
through the London Arts Council.
“I am surprised at how quickly 10 years
have passed,” Giannarapis says. “I didn’t
expect such longevity or popular success.”
www.lightofeastensemble.com
Music lovers have the chance to hear
London’s newest classical ensemble on April
30, when Magisterra Solosits make their local
debut at Windermere on the Mount Chapel.
The 12-member ensemble is the creation
of acclaimed violinist and Western
University professor Annette-Barbara
Vogel. “For years now I have been dreaming
of a professional
group that would
bridge a gap in the
musical landscape of
Canada,” says Vogel.
“I wanted to form
something that would
provide a musical
launching pad for
talented graduates of
Canadian universities
and conservatories.
Something
Annette-Barbara Vogel flexible in size and
instrumentation,
championing an eclectic and exciting
repertoire, old and new.”
The current roster includes musicians
from Western University’s Don Wright
Faculty of Music, Wilfrid Laurier University,
University of Ottawa and Toronto’s Glenn
Gould School. “Everyone is based around
London and the GTA, which makes it
feasible to gather in one place for rehearsal,”
explains Magisterra Solosits administrative
coordinator Mikela Witjes.
A second concert will take
place in Guelph on May 8,
while a tour of Brazil and
local outreach and education
concerts are also in the
works. www.magisterra.co
The Light of East Ensemble
NICOLE LAIDLER has been writing
about the London classical music scene
for over a decade. Find out what else she’s
been up to at www.spilledink.ca

54 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
various musical notes
Jam Nights and Upcoming Concerts
By RICK YOUNG
There’s a lot going on in London
and area as we come into spring.
A recent trend in London’s club
scene has been the emergence
of open mic and jam nights. It’s a great
evening out, whether you’re in the
audience, or on the stage. Our part of the
country produces a lot of musical talent —
get out there and discover it, or show it off!
The grand-daddy of them all, the
London Music Club’s long-running
Electric Jam Night, runs every Thursday
at the Colbourne Street venue. Hosted
by guitarist Rick Joyce, this jam leans
towards electric blues. It attracts some of
the region’s most seasoned and talented
musicians, and welcomes aspiring players.
The LMC is also home to a monthly Irish
ceili, with live music with The London Irish
Folk Club, and an open stage.
Over at the Eastside Bar and Grill on Hamilton
Road, Allstage Music’s Jim McCormick
and his wife Barb Whitney host the Allstage
Eastside Bar
Wednesday
Night Jam
every week.
Backed by
The After
Eight Band, local musicians and bands of all
stripes and ages can test out their chops on a
full backline provided by Bellone’s Music. The
Jam goes from 8pm to midnight.
Local troubadour Stu Warrington hosts
Stu’s Open Mic Jam every Monday at The
Grinning Gator on Richmond Street. The
Grinning Gator also presents an ongoing
series, The Gator Girls Gala, featuring some
of the area’s talented female performers
such as Nikki James, Saidat Abrai and
Amanda Underhill.
If your musical
tastes lean towards
country, drop in at the
Bull & Barrel Urban
Saloon on Talbot
Street for Tuesday
Open Mic Nights. The
popular eatery also
features many local
country artists, and often ties in with events
being held at Budweiser Gardens.
London’s longest running free music festival,
Home Country Music & Arts Festival,
holds its annual fundraiser concert on March
12 at the Former First Spiritualist Church on
Rectory Street. Headliner Prince
Marty Kolls
Edward
Islandbased
musical
powerhouse
Irish Mythen will be joined by local singer/
songwriter Marty Kolls. Tickets are $20 in
advance (plus service charges) or $25 at the
door (subject to availability). Advance tickets
can be purchased online at EventBrite.com.
London’s award-winning Aeolian Hall
in the city’s Old East Village has a packed
schedule for
March and
April, beginning
with
Sunfest’s presentation of The Outside Track

№ 58 | March/April 2016
on March 4, and The Lula All Stars on March
18. David Myles returns on March 11, followed
by Grammy Award-winner Judy Collins
on March 13, with special guest Garnet
Rogers.
Sunfest
presents
Barbra
Lica on
April 2, and
Barbra
Lica
Johnny
Clegg on
April 6.
Frank D’Angelo and his 15-piece band take the
stage on April 15. The Light of East Ensemble
performs on April 16 and Nobuntu on April
30. The ever-popular
Emm Gryner performs
at the Hall on
April 23 with special
guest Sarah Smith.
Then Joel Plaskett
Emergency gives two
evening performances,
April 27 and
April 28.
Beatles fans
can get their fix
Emm
with two events at
Gryner
Centennial Hall.
First up is Rain: A Tribute to The Beatles on
March 13, and then Classic Albums Live! The
Beatles Sgt. Pepper on April 26.
The London Music Hall presents The
Sheepdogs on March 4, The Trews on March
12, Sean Paul on March 18, and Twenty One
Pilots on April 2.
Over at the London Music Club, Craig
Cardiff takes the stage on March 26 followed
by David Francey on April 23.
The ever-popular Wish
You Were Here Pink Floyd
Tribute fundraiser returns
to the Grand Theatre on
Saturday, April 2, with
proceeds benefiting
prostate cancer research.
Some of London’s finest
musicians join forces
for this annual much
anticipated performance. Tickets are available
through The Grand’s box office.
All in all, it’s shaping up to be a very
musical early spring.
LONDON ARTISTS’
STUDIO TOUR
FRI April 15 7 to 9:30 p.m.
SAT April 16 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
SUN April 17 noon to 5 p.m.
Brochures available at Museum London,
Library Branches or online at
www.londonstudiotour.ca
Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743
Series Sponsor
www.sunfest.on.ca
World Music & Jazz Series 2015 - 16
THE OUTSIDE TRACK (Scotland/Ireland/Canada) - Friday, March 4
DELHI 2 DUBLIN - Wednesday, March 16 @ London Music Hall
LULA ALL STARS “Big Salsa Party” - Friday, March 18
BARBRA LICA - Saturday, April 2
JOHNNY CLEGG ( South Africa) - Wednesday, April 6
LIGHT OF EAST ENSEMBLE - “CD Release Concert” - Saturday, April 16
NOBUNTU (Zimbabwe) - Saturday, April 30
DE TEMPS ANTAN - Saturday, May 7
For announcements of concerts & TD Sunfest ’16 artists visit sunfest.on.ca
All Concerts ~Doors at 7:00 pm ~Concert at 8:00 pm
Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian
Hall , 795 Dundas St ., London
Tickets available at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall Box Office (519-672-1967),
The Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca, aeolianhall.ca, or ticketscene.ca
/SunfestCanada @CanadaSunfest /canadasunfest
RICK YOUNG is a regular contributor to eatdrink.

56 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
books
The School of
Sophisticated Drinking
An Intoxicating History of Seven Spirits
by Kerstin Ehmer & Beate Hinderman
Review by DARIN COOK
Brandy, vodka, whiskey, rum, tequila,
gin, Champagne — a distinguished
list that Kerstin Ehmer and Beate
Hinderman have deemed worthy
of higher education in their book, The School
of Sophisticated Drinking: An Intoxicating
History of Seven Spirits (Greystone, 2015,
$22.95). From this team of bartenders-turnedauthors
we learn about the cultural, political,
economic, and social settings from which
these famous spirits were born.
Canadian drinking legend Kevin Brauch
endorses the book in a Foreword, admitting
he did not like school much, but is capable
of earning good grades at an institution
involving alcohol. Brauch spent time at
Victoria Bar in Germany where Ehmer and
Hinderman started a lecture series in 2003.
The content of those lectures evolved into
this book as the authors realized that “every
shift in power, every war, every technical
innovation left an impression on the
appearance and taste of alcohol brands up
to their present state.”
This is the kind of book that makes you
appear knowledgeable when bumping
elbows at a bar or mingling at a cocktail
party. Each spirit is linked to historical
stories of the region where it originated;
even the authors’ bar resides in a part of
Authors Kerstin Ehmer
and Beate Hinderman
Berlin that
was literally
in the shadow
of the Berlin Wall. The first
semester introduces us to West Berlin’s
mayor during the Cold War, Willy Brandt
(nicknamed Brandy Willy for his love of the
drink distilled from white wine), who made
brandy the best-selling spirit in Germany.
Also with political connections, vodka
gained international attention with Boris
Yeltsin’s prowess for matching global
leadership with flagrant drinking. In the 1980s
vodka garnered a better reputation with the
hip Absolut brand from Sweden that played
against its Communist reputation, keeping
drinks like James Bond’s martini fashionable.
The thirteen years of American Prohibition
had a hand in the fate of all alcohol, but
vodka was easily available in the mid-1930s
as bootleggers kept the spirits flowing with a
successful influx to the USA.
Many American whiskeys originated
before Prohibition. German immigrant
Jakob Bohm started a whisky business in
1795 which six generations later adopted
the name of one of his heirs, Jim Beam.
Lynchburg, Tennessee was home to Jack
Daniels’ distillery, but after Prohibition
the county where Lynchburg is located
was never reinstated to allow alcohol
consumption — you can buy it from the
distillery, but not drink it there.
Moving from America to the tropics, rum
has a long-standing association with pirates
(including Captain Morgan who was a real
17th century buccaneer) but its history
extends beyond barrels of it being integral to
swashbuckling, and the authors remind us
that Havana Club coming out of Cuba shows
us how rum is “inextricably linked to the

№ 58 | March/April 2016
errors and terrors of worldwide political and
commercial relations.”
In Mexican lore, the real-life Robin Hood
hero, Pancho Villa, allied himself with
bottles of tequila to fuel socialist revolutions.
The demand for tequila started outrunning
its supply with a rise in popularity during the
1968 Summer Olympics hosted by Mexico;
this resulted in mass production inferior to
the blue agave tradition. Recent interest in
premium brands has returned tequila to a
status on par with cognac and scotch.
With the rough-and-tumble reputations
of whiskey in the West, rum on highseas
adventures, and tequila in Mexican
insurrections, the lesson on gin reminds us
of its more elegant status, especially given its
role in the Martini, which the authors write, “is
certainly one of the most distinguished ways to
intoxication.” Gin did have its dark side during
the Gin Craze of London in the early 1700s
when it was drunk by the masses, causing
numerous household and societal problems.
Even though not typically considered a
spirit, the authors include Champagne as a
drink with an elegant and illustrious history.
First produced in France, it had gained a
global reputation by 1730 and “from London
to Vienna and Berlin to Madrid, the little
bubbles fizzed at all the finest addresses of
the capitals.” Most famous from the peaceful
monastery of the Benedictine monk, Dom
Perignon, Champagne also had violent
connections with both World Wars as many
grape-growing areas were decimated by
war-torn destruction.
During the original lectures participants
had the pleasure of enjoying five cocktails
made by the scholarly bartenders; the
book can only replicate this by providing
the recipes to prepare the appropriate
drinks yourself to go along with the reading
material. Either way, these bartenders
have successfully brought their own brand
of education to patrons in their bar and
to readers around the world, collectively
raising a glass with kings and commoners,
monks and soldiers, dictators and farmers,
Hollywood icons and doctors that have
all had a hand in bar culture and alcohol
consumption throughout history.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based out of Chatham,
who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the
bookstores and restaurants of London.
“Kym Wolfe has written a fascinating
account of the life of Canadian artist
Philip Aziz.... Wolfe skillfully reveals
the wide array of aesthetic interests
... that inspired Aziz throughout his
life.
It is a wonderful, enlightening read.”
– Brian Meehan
Executive Director, Museum London
Available from:
Attic Books
Brown & Dickson Booksellers
The Rusty Gate Gift & Gallery
MUSE at Museum London
Western University Book Store
www.kymwolfe.com

58 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
cookbooks
Per La Famiglia
Memories and Recipes of Southern Italian Home Cooking
By Emily Richards
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
Emily Richards’ latest cookbook,
Per La Famiglia, Memories and
Recipes of Southern Italian Home
Cooking, evokes memories of family
gatherings in the kitchen. This is no accident.
The former Canadian Living Test Kitchen
staffer and celebrity TV cook found that some
of those family recipes were becoming lost as
people moved further apart.
She passes on the tips and tricks that she
learned as a child hanging out in the kitchen
of her Southern Italian family. The texture of
bread or pasta is as important to the recipe
as the words on a page. Sharing these details
with us is her effort to keep her own family’s
traditions alive so we can share them with
our families.
I remember Emily Richards from the early
days of Food TV but I didn’t know she had a
local connection. She received her Bachelor
of Science, Home Economics specializing in
Food and Nutrition from Western University.
Her education, combined with more than
fifteen years in the food industry, has made
her an icon of Canadian cooking.
Richards’
choice of
recipes reflects
her family’s
origins, but
while she
embraces
tradition, she
isn’t bound by
it. Some recipes
are straight up
classics while
Author Emily
Richards, a Western
University grad,
with her latest book
others have a
unique twist,
like couscous
in place of
spaghetti.
I know
that there
is more to Italian food
than pizza, cheese and pasta with red
sauce but those are the dishes I personally
love and this book is full of them. Hearty,
tasty food that makes me want to serve big
Sunday dinners for weeks to come.
Per La Famiglia is organized into the usual
chapters for mains and sides but also has
sections for kitchen staples, celebration menus
and two chapters for sweets. You’ve got to love
any culture that loves cookies that much.
I usually try to find two very different
recipes to highlight for you but I think
that homemade pasta elevates a dish so
much that it’s worth the extra effort once
in a while. I’ll admit that mine never looks
as good as the Pasta Dough recipe in this
picture but the taste and texture is amazing.
If you don’t have the time or inclination to
make the pasta or the sauce yourself, don’t
let that stop you from trying the Spinach
Ricotta Cannelloni. Buy good quality
ingredients and in just a few minutes you
can put together this dish that will make you
look like a star in the kitchen.
I picked up Per La Famiglia with
the intention of giving it a quick read
and writing my review. After two hours
dreaming about what I would cook first,
I knew this wasn’t going to happen. I
sometimes complain that there are not
enough photos in cookbooks. In this case it
may have been a blessing in disguise — it’s
going to take me a while to work through all

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 59
the fantastic recipes in this book. But I think
it going to be time very well spent.
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in
London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com
Per La Famiglia: Memories and Recipes of Southern Italian Home Cooking;
Emily Richards, PHEc © 2015 is published by Whitecap. All rights reserved.
Pasta Dough Impasto per la Pasta
If you have a pasta machine you can make all different shapes
and sizes of pasta. I remember helping my Nonna and mom when
pasta was being made. We would hang sheets of pasta off of broom
handles balanced on the backs of chairs to dry. It was so much fun
that I would dance around the pasta sheets as if I was cheering the
pasta to dry. Nothing beats a plate of homemade “pastashutta,”
which is slang for pasta but also an endearing term that my dad has
always used when talking to little kids, including my own children!
This dough makes perfect all-purpose pasta for any occasion.
Makes pasta for 4 to 6 servings
piece is formed. Lay flat on a floured
surface and let dry for about 15–30
minutes. Continue with remaining
dough.
For long pasta: Place dough at top of
pasta cutter and roll through. Wrap
into little nests and let dry completely
for long storage or cook immediately.
1½ cups (375 mL) all-purpose flour (approx.)
3 eggs
1½ tsp (7 mL) salt
1 tsp (5 mL) extra
virgin olive oil
Mound flour on
counter or in a large
bowl. Make a well in
centre of the flour. In
a small bowl, whisk
together eggs, salt and
oil. Pour into well and
begin mixing with fork,
incorporating small
amounts of flour at a
time until a soft dough
forms. Turn out onto a
floured surface.
Knead dough for about
5 minutes, adding more
flour if necessary, until
a firm, smooth dough
forms. Cover with a tea
towel and let rest for
about 15 minutes.
Cut dough into 4 equal
pieces. Using a pasta
machine, roll 1 piece
at a time through the
thickest, or first, setting
two times. Continue
through settings until
a smooth, thin pasta

60 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
Spinach Ricotta Cannelloni Cannelloni di Ricotta e Spinaci
My mom showed me how to make this and we
decided that it would be easy to substitute storebought
fresh lasagne sheets in a pinch. These
cannelloni are a family favourite for any night of the
week. They freeze well and make an easy Sunday
dinner. Make sure there’s bread on the table to sop up
any leftover sauce!
Makes 8 servings.
1 batch Homemade Pasta Dough (previous page)
FILLING
½ cup (125 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup (60 mL) chopped Italian parsley
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tub (11 oz / 330 g) baby spinach cooked,
drained and chopped*
1 tub (475 g) ricotta
cheese**
1 cup (250 mL)
shredded
mozzarella cheese
Pinch of salt
Pinch of pepper
4 cups (1 L)
Homemade
Tomato Sauce
(below) or bottled
pasta sauce
* You can use 16 cups
(4 L) of lightly packed
spinach for the tub.
** You will need 1½ cups
(375 mL) of ricotta
cheese.
Cut dough into 4 equal
pieces. Using pasta
machine, roll 1 piece
at a time through first
setting twice. Continue
through settings until
smooth, thin pasta
piece is formed. Lay
flat on floured surface;
let dry for about 15–30
minutes.
Continue with
remaining dough. Cut
each strip of dough
into 6-inch (15 cm)
rectangles to make a
total of 16 cannelloni.
In large pot of boiling
salted water, cook pasta sheets in batches, for
about 2 minutes. Lift out of the water and lay flat
on a damp tea towel.
Meanwhile, reserve 2 Tbsp (30 mL) each of the
Parmesan and parsley and set aside.
In large bowl, stir together eggs, spinach, ricotta,
mozzarella, remaining Parmesan and parsley, salt
and pepper. Place about 3 Tbsp (45 mL) in centre of
each pasta piece. Roll up to form a cylinder.
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Pour 1 cup (250 mL) of the pasta sauce in the
bottom of a 13 × 9-inch (3 L) baking dish to cover
bottom. Place cannelloni snugly in the pan. Pour
remaining sauce over top. Sprinkle with reserved

№ 58 | March/April 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 61
Parmesan cheese and parsley. Cover and bake for
about 45 minutes or until bubbly and hot.
HOMEMADE TOMATO SAUCE
Sugo Fatto in Casa
This is as close to my mom’s and Nonna’s sauce as
I could get. Using home-made canned tomatoes
makes a difference but many people don’t get a
chance to can their own tomatoes. I wanted to be
able to offer you a recipe for a tomato sauce using
store-bought canned tomatoes that was easy to make
and still tasted great. This sauce is perfect for pasta or
any other dish that uses tomato sauce, like pizza. It’s
simple and tasty and also freezes beautifully.
Makes 5 cups (1.25L) sauce.
2 cans (28 oz / 796 mL) plum tomatoes*
6 sprigs fresh Italian parsley
2 sprigs fresh basil
1 small onion, halved
2 cloves garlic, halved
3 Tbsp (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried oregano leaves
2 tsp (10 mL) salt
¼ tsp (1 mL) hot pepper flakes
* You can use 6
cups (1.5 L) of
homemade
tomatoes if you can
your own. You can also use 2 jars (700
mL) of tomato passata if you don’t want to puree
them yourself.
In a food mill or blender, puree tomatoes until
smooth and pour into large saucepan.
Add parsley, basil, onion, garlic, oil, oregano, salt
and hot pepper flakes. Bring to a boil.
Cover and reduce heat to medium-low; cook
for about 2 hours or until reduced slightly and
thickened.
Note: You can serve up the very soft onion, garlic and
herbs on crusty bread. I have family members that
enjoy them this way.
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www.thepristineolive.ca

62 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 58 | March/April 2016
the lighter side
Lessons in Juvenile Gastronomy
By DARIN COOK
As a parent, I have
learned that a child’s
tastes are fickle, everchanging,
bizarre,
and downright frustrating.
Biologically speaking, children
must have the same taste buds as
the rest of us that detect sweet,
sour, bitter, and salty, but I
cannot figure out how some
food combinations ever pass
the taste test. I’ve caught my youngest son,
Jonah, enjoying a Mini Wheat dipped in
ketchup. Give his older brother, Ethan, a
bottle of soy sauce and he’ll free pour far
too much onto his plate, not seeming to
mind the overwhelming umami flavour he
has created in his mashed potatoes or fish
sticks. Gastronomy usually dictates what is
acceptable or not for the refined palette of
a discerning adult, but juvenile gastronomy
seems to have its own rules.
When Ethan’s latest birthday rolled
around, we threw caution to the wind and
allowed him to choose the restaurant where
we would celebrate as a family. I wasn’t
holding out hope for any fine dining, but
something without golden arches would
be appreciated. Most likely their partiality
to soy sauce has steered both boys in the
direction of developing a taste for sushi that
is out-of-the-ordinary for most children, so
we weren’t caught off guard when Ethan
declared, “I think we should go to the sushi
restaurant for my birthday.”
With Ethan turning five and Jonah being
three, we already had an established track
record of meal-time pandemonium at all
types of restaurants. We knew it wouldn’t be
a relaxing meal, but we really wanted sushi,
so we headed out before he could change his
mind. After settling in, we placed our order
of California rolls, salmon sushi, chicken
teriyaki, wonton soup, shrimp tempura, crab
legs, and fried rice — all things the boys are
willing to eat (on a good day).
“And please don’t forget my sushi lettuce,”
Ethan said very officially to
the waitress.
She turned to me with a
puzzled look.
“He would also like a
garden salad,” I translated.
Even though sushi is pretty
adventurous by children’s
standards, our boys continue
to confound us with some of their
preferences. Ethan’s favourite item from
the all-you-can-eat menu is iceberg lettuce
dipped in soy sauce. Surprisingly, steamed
edamame is Jonah’s favourite, but he
obstinately refuses broccoli, green peppers,
or most any other green vegetable.
Our prediction about it not being a
relaxing meal was accurate, and we continue
to prove that eating with kids in public is a
non-stop adventure. Ethan knocked over a
pyramid display of Sapporo beer cans in an
aluminium clatter. Wooden chopsticks were
enlisted as drumsticks on the tabletop more
than as eating implements. Ethan managed
to overflow his soy sauce bowl onto the table,
twice. Jonah left the usual carnage around
his chair, resembling the aftermath of an epic
food fight.
When dessert rolled around, the waitress
brought deep-fried vanilla ice cream
with chocolate sauce as a special treat to
celebrate the birthday.
Ethan loved it, but Jonah announced, “I
want the green one.”
The green one was green tea flavoured ice
cream that we had tried on an earlier visit
that he apparently liked and was willing
to repeat. Given his dislike for most things
green, there is no reason why he should like
it better than vanilla. Maybe there is hope
for these juvenile taste buds after all. That’s
what I thought anyway, until he proceeded
to ask for chocolate sauce on it.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives in Chatham-
Kent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.

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