Eatdrink #60 July/August 2016

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario Since 2007 

№ 60 • July/August 2016 

www.eatdrink.ca 

FREE 

Fresh 

&Local 

NOW! 

SEASONAL 

Farmers’ 

Markets 

FEATURING 

Where to Eat in Stratford 

Summer Dining in Festival City 

Dining in Port Stanley 

An Authentic Taste of Elgin County 

Chatham-Kent Road Trip 

Festivals, Food & Fun 

Huron County Breweries 

Celebrating the Art of Craft Brewing 

ALSO: Regional Summer Theatre | Booch Organic Kombucha | BBQ Wines | Summer Music

2 www.eatdrink.ca 

№ 60 | July/August 2016 

summer 

STRATFORD’s 

tastes and tunes 

Stratford Summer Music delights with International piano greats, 

The Artie Shaw Orchestra and Rossini’s Barber of Seville dinner opera 

and cabarets. Start your visit picking up fresh berries, breads, cheese 

and vegetables at our local markets, then relax at musical brunches. 

Join culinary walks, foraging tours and distillery tours. 

JULY 

AUG 

2 Stratford Farmers Market, Rotary Complex, Saturdays 

3 Perth County Slow Food Market, Market Square, Sundays 

2,3 Foraging Tours, Ongoing 

23-24 Musical Brunches, The Prune, Sat&Sun through Aug 28 

6,13,27 Live at Revival House Cabaret and Dinner 

13 Forage and Feast 

19,20,21 The Barber of Seville Dinner Opera, Revival House 

28 Bluegrass Brunch, Local Community Food Centre 

Sip and sample more summer offers at 

visitstratford.ca/eatdrink 

@SavourStratford 

@StratfordON 

StratfordON 

Stratford, 

Ontario 

VisitStratfordON

Built in 1878, Idlewyld Inn & Spa offers 

unparalleled elegance, history and comfort 

in the heart of the city. 

DISCOVER AN URBAN OASIS 

Summer BBQ Dinner Wednesdays & Thursdays 

Alfresco dining on our Front Porch and Courtyard Patio 

New seasonal menus 

The Spa at Idlewyld 

21 Guest Rooms 

Landmark location for Weddings, 

Meetings & Celebrations 

36 Grand Avenue, London, ON N6C 1K8 | 519.432.5554 

IdlewyldInn.com 

Nestled on 33 acres of rolling countryside, 

Elm Hurst Inn & Spa has been a southwestern 

Ontario landmark since 1872. 

ENJOY A BREATH OF FRESH AIR 

Patio Nights with Live Music every Thursday 

Summer Lunch Buffet, Wed – Sat 

Sunday Brunch & Prime Rib Dinner Buffets 

Aveda Spa 

49 Guest Rooms 

A preferred venue for Weddings, 

Meetings & Celebrations 

415 Harris Street, Ingersoll, ON N5C 3J8 | 519.485.5321 

elmhurstinn.com

eatdrink 

 

inc. 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

eatdrinkmag 

@eatdrinkmag 

Think Global. 

Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Copy Editor 

Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Gerry Blackwell, Darin Cook, Gary Killops, 

Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery, Wayne Newton, 

Emily Stewart, Sue Sutherland Wood, 

Tracy Turlin, 

Photographer Steve Grimes 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

© 2016 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink 

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission 

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 20,000 issues 

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the 

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink 

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily 

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions 

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. 

eatdrink.ca 

Read every issue online, 

no matter which device you prefer. 

Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues 

Plus! 

New Stories Only Online 

Plus! 

OUR COVER 

A couple shop at the Downtown 

Woodstock Farmers’ Market, held 

Thursdays on Museum Square from 

noon until 5 pm. 

Photo courtesy of 

Ontario’s Southwest 

(www.OntariosSouthwest.com) 

Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service. 

NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFE & PRIVATE DINING 

THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE 

Open for Dinner 

during Londonlicious 

July 22–Aug 15 

WED–SAT NIGHTS 

northmoore@rogers.com | www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca 

519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge

№ 60 | July/August 2016 www.eatdrink.ca 5 

notes from the publisher 

Enjoy Our Summer Issue 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

The “Summer Issue” is always 

fun to put together. You will see 

why as you thumb through these 

pages. There’s plenty of exciting 

opportunities presented here. Live music, 

some of it under the stars, 

and our regional theatres 

are highlighted, and while 

I resisted including nonculinary 

columns in eatdrink 

for years, this coverage has 

become an important part of 

what we do. But I could also 

call this issue of eatdrink 

a “road trip issue.” We’re 

proud to have a regional 

publication, and there are 

so many good reasons 

for this in evidence in 

these pages. 

Darin Cook guides us 

on our designated Road 

Trip story, taking us 

through his backyard 

and the delights of 

Chatham-Kent. If 

you haven’t been 

to Chatham recently, you’ll 

w 

find a dozen reasons to make amends. 

From fine dining in chic surroundings, to 

opportunities to meet a farmer on his home 

turf, there is something for everyone. 

Bryan Lavery updates us on two great 

dining destinations. Stratford has a welldeserved 

reputation as “a food town” 

and the talent there keeps building on 

that. Bryan profiles eleven outstanding 

restaurants that are committed to using 

local suppliers. Who would you add to make 

that an even dozen? There are a number of 

excellent candidates, but this is a great list. 

Taking a similar tack in Port Stanley has 

become easier this year. “Port” has long 

been a destination for beach and rustic 

charm, and that’s still there, but the culinary 

scene, which always had some stars, has 

really matured. The options today make for 

tough but wonderful decisions for diners, 

from good Mexican at Main Street Taqueira 

to cutting-edge contemporary fine dining at 

... Well, I don’t want to steal Bryan’s thunder. 

Check out the story. 

Embracing “local flavours” also means 

supporting local farmers 

and artisans for our food 

purchases for 

home cooking. 

Take a look at our 

cover-story roundup 

of the regional 

Farmers’ Markets that 

are really hitting stride 

early this year. The time 

is NOW for getting the 

freshest food possible. 

Why eat anything else? 

LONDON’S 

LOCAL FLAVOUR 

LONDON’S 

CULINARY GUIDE Volume 5 

LOCAL 

FLAVOUR 

Culinary Guide Volume 5 

Restaurants • Culinary Retail • Farmers, Markets 

eatdrink The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

We’re excited here at 

eatdrink to present Volume 

5 of London’s Local Flavour. 

You can get your hands on 

a copy by mid-July, at the 

markets and many of the 

eatdrink outlets in London, 

and regionally at the Tourism 

Information Centres. As 

usual, this free guide will also 

be online at eatdrink.ca, and like all of our 

publications, it can be read on your phone, 

tablet or desktop. 

This is a deep look at the city’s culinary 

scene, with a big focus on restaurants, 

but our specialty food shops and farmer’s 

markets are highlighted too. We have 

seen the benefits of this kind of detailed 

inventory in promoting London to visitors 

while also reminding Londoners of what a 

treasure trove is here. We have a formidable 

group of talented chefs, restaurateurs and 

purveyors of artisanal products, supported 

by hard-working crews. We are honoured to 

celebrate that. Cheers!



contents ISSUE № 60 

JULY/AUGUST 2016 

58 

8 

27 

18 

25 

45 

56 

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE 

8 Fresh & Local NOW! Seasonal Farmers’ Markets 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

RESTAURANTS 

11 Where to Eat in Stratford This Summer 


27 Old Favourites and New: Dining in Port Stanley 


ROAD TRIPS 

18 Festivals, Food, and Fun, in Chatham-Kent 

By DARIN COOK 

FARMERS & ARTISANS 

25 Booch’s Business is Bubbling in London and beyond 

By EMILY STEWART 

NEW & NOTABLE 

32 The BUZZ 

TRAVEL 

39 Eating Like Natives in Valencia, Spain 

By GERRY BLACKWELL? 

WINE 

42 Could These Be Your BBQ BFFs? 

By GARY KILLOPS 

BEER MATTERS 

45 A Trio of Huron County Craft Breweries 

By WAYNE NEWTON 

THEATRE 

50 Summertime Theatre in Port Stanley, Grand Bend & Blyth 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

THE CLASSICAL BEAT 

53 A Star-Studded Summer: Stratford, Grand Bend & London 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

VARIOUS MUSICAL NOTES 

56 Getting Back to Some Musical Roots 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

COOKBOOKS 

58 A Taste of Haida Gwaii by Susan Musgrave 

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

BOOKS 

60 All or Nothing by Jesse Schenker 

Nine Lives by Brandon Baltzley 

Review by DARIN COOK 

THE LIGHTER SIDE 

62 A Bucketful of Memories 

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD 

THE BUZZ 

60


ST.MARYS 

STONETOWN 

Choose the scenic rural route and discover the unexpected ... 

a Heritage Conservation District town with specialty shops, 

historical treasures and homegrown hospitality. 

Just 15 minutes southwest of Stratford. 

Let us help you plan your visit. 

Visit our Information Centre at the historic Town Hall, 

175 Queen Street (lower level Church St. entrance). 

t. 519.284.3500 | toll free 1.800.769.7668 

e. tourism@town.stmarys.on.ca 

TownofStMarys.com 

Images courtesy of Kelly Lyn Baird



food writer at large 

Fresh and Local NOW 

Seasonal Farmers’ Markets 


Farmers’ markets are a long-standing 

tradition in Ontario. The term 

farmers’ market, however, is used 

broadly to describe a variety of 

operations that sometimes offer more 

diverse products than a strictly defined 

producer-only farmers’ market. 

Sometimes shopping at a farmers’ market 

is a way of supporting local farmers, so long 

as you employ a liberal definition of the term 

local. Other times there are strict guidelines 

in place that ensure that a producer-only 

market consists principally of farmers selling 

directly to the public goods that their farms 

have produced. 

There are differing ideas as to what 

constitutes a farmers’ market. In some cases 

the definition is also a municipal issue. In 

London Ontario, the Middlesex Health Unit 

defines a farmers’ markets exemption from 

the Food Premises Regulation when the 

majority (51% or greater) of vendors retailing 

at the market are producers of farm products 

who are primarily selling their own products. 

In Ontario a province-wide produceronly 

farmers’ market authority makes 

decisions about what is and what isn’t 

a “certified” farmers’ market. Farmers’ 

Markets Ontario (FMO) is the association 

representing the province’s farmers’ markets 

The Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market 

takes place on Stratford’s Market Square 

Goderich’s weekly market is held in Courthouse Square 

that meet and maintain stringent standards. 

The organization is focused on assisting 

the development of community-based 

farmers-only farmers’ markets. If you are 

an entrepreneur in a position to operate a 

privately-owned or hybrid market, FMO 

curiously does not offer support. 

Farmers’ markets, as defined by the FMO, 

are seasonal, multi-vendor, communitydriven 

(not private) organizations selling 

agricultural food, art and craft products 

including home-grown produce, homemade 

crafts and value-added products 

where the majority of vendors are primary 

producers. Farmers’ Market Ontario lists 

175 markets and counting. There continues 

to be an increase in the amount of farmers’, 

community, municipal and privatized 

markets across the province, and the 

number is now estimated to be in excess of 

350. Here is a brief listing of some 

of the area’s best-loved seasonal 

farmers’ markets. 

On Thursday and Saturdays the 

Covent Garden Market has an 

outdoor farmers’ market which 

offers fresh, local food on the Market 

Square from May to December. The 

vendors “grow it, raise it, bake it, or 

make it.”Open Thursdays 8 am–2 

pm and Saturdays 8 am–1 pm. For 

current news, recipes and seasonal 

information sign up for the weekly 

newsletter at www.coventmarket.com


All the vendors at Grand Bend’s market either 

“grow it, produce it, make it or bake it.” 

The popular outdoor Goderich Farmers’ 

Market in Courthouse Square is sponsored 

and operated by the Goderich BIA. Vendors 

offer fruits and vegetables, honey, maple 

syrup, plants and flowers, locally-reared 

pork products, fish, baked goods, preserves 

and handmade crafts. Open Victoria Day to 

Thanksgiving, Saturdays 8 am–1 pm. www. 

goderichbia.ca/farmers-market/ 

Nestled on Ontario’s West Coast, the 

Grand Bend Farmers’ Market welcomes 

you to a season of locally-grown produce. 

The offerings of the 25-plus producer-based 

vendors range from organic vegetables, local 

beef and pork producers to bakers, artisans 

and a “couple of characters.” If the vendors 

don’t grow it, produce it, make it or bake it, 

it can’t be found at the market. They offer 

a varied selection of products from Huron, 

Middlesex and Lambton counties. 1 Main St., 

Grand Bend (Colonial Hotel Parking Lot - 

enter off Hwy 21.) Opens the first Wednesday 

after Victoria Day and closes the last 

Wednesday before Thanksgiving. 8 am–1 pm. 

www.grandbendfarmersmarket.ca 

Masonville Farmers’ Market has evolved 

into a local community hub with over 

40 farmers, artisans and food 

producers. Located in north 

London outside of Masonville 

Place at 1680 Richmond Street 

North, there is plenty of free 

parking. Organized by the 

Farmers’& Artisans’ Market at 

the Western Fair, you can be sure 

to find interesting food artisans 

and quality purveyors providing 

seasonal items. Open every Friday 

8 am– 2 pm, weather permitting, 

from May to October. 

Since its inception, Slow Food 

Perth County’s Sunday Market 

has been a hit and a go-to food destination. 

Market-goers appreciate the good, clean, 

fair principles of Slow Food as well as the 

local vendors who have a passion for their 

high quality offerings. In season it can be 

found at Stratford Market Square, then the 

market returns to The Falstaff Family Centre. 

The market remains outdoors right through 

the planting, growing, and harvest seasons, 

until mid-October, Sundays 10 am–2 pm. 

The Soho Street Market provides local 

residents and visitors with an open-air 

market experience where they can purchase 

a variety of fresh produce, locally foraged 

goods, artisan baking, and prepared foods 

straight from the producers. Tuesday night 

from 4-8 pm, at the Victoria Tavern, 466 

South St., London. www.sohomarket.ca 

The St. Marys Farmers’ Market continues 

its proud tradition of offering a wide range 

of fresh and locally produced foods. The 

vendors at the market are all local farmers, 

home bakers and local craftspeople. The 

Market also offers special annual events 

such as Strawberry Shortcake Day, Pancake 

Breakfast, Apple Pie Contest and two 

“Souper-Douper Saturdays.” May 21–October 

29th, Saturdays 8 am–12 noon. www. 

stmarysfarmersmarket.ca 

Horton Farmers’ Market in St. Thomas is 

a “best-in-class market” that promotes civic 

pride, shapes local culture and supports the 

regional economy by providing access to 

high-quality food producers, craftspeople 

and artisans. Organizers strive to have only 

local producers and craftspeople represented, 

giving you a taste and experience unique to 

St. Thomas. Manitoba Street, one-half block 

north of Talbot Street. St. Thomas, May to 

October 29th, Saturdays 8 am–12 noon. www. 

hortonfarmersmarket.ca 

The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market is 

held Thursdays and Saturdays


The Moonlight Market is held 

under the Bluewater Bridge in 

Point Edward, adjacent to Sarnia 

Strathroy Farmers’ Market is one of the 

area’s oldest open air farmers’ markets and 

has operated since 1861. The bustling market 

has moved from Market Square behind the 

Town Hall to Front Street between Caradoc 

Street and Frank Street. Saturdays from 

June to October, Saturdays 8 am–12 noon. 

Member of Farmers’ Market Ontario. 

Downtown Woodstock Farmers’ 

Market is a vibrant outdoor local market 


on Museum Square. The market features 

fresh, seasonal produce, eggs, meat, dairy, 

baked goods, flowers, plants, artisans, crafts 

and more. Museum Square and Dundas St., 

Woodstock, May to October, Thursdays 12 

noon–5 pm. www.downtownwoodstock.ca 

Point Edward Moonlight Farmers’ 

Market is a producer-based farmers’ 

market featuring the very best in local food, 

including meats, produce, baking, maple 

syrup, herbs, and a variety of specialty 

foods. The vendor mix continues to evolve, 

so shop the market every week. It offers 

live music, demos and much more as the 

season progresses. Located on the service 

road in Waterfront Park in the Village of 

Point Edward, parallel to Michigan Avenue 

and spanning the distance from the pavilion 

on Livingston Ave to the parking lot by the 

water. You’ll find it right under the beautiful 

Bluewater Bridge. Open Thursdays, 4 pm–8 

pm, May 26–October 6th. 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at 

Large, and a Farmers’ Market Consultant.


restaurants 

Where to Eat in Stratford 

Summer Dining in Festival City 


When dining in Stratford, I 

can’t help but be drawn to 

restaurants that authentically 

support farmers, vineyards, 

and food purveyors by featuring quality 

local ingredients and products. I also like 

to take note of the ambience, whether 

the cutlery is polished, and the wine and 

food knowledge of the service staff. Great 

restaurants give a lot of thought and 

attention to their wine and cocktail lists and, 

most importantly, to genuine hospitality. 

Bijou 

For many years the culinary opus at Bijou has 

been a front-runner in Stratford for inspired, 

locally-sourced cuisine. The bistro has built 

a following as a destination restaurant for 

providing a good local taste experience. 

Mark and Linda 

Simone purchased 

the legacy 

restaurant last 

year and added a 

new entrance on 

Wellington St. and 

a small bar in the 

front area. 

The farm-totable 

inspired 

blackboard pretheatre 

dinner 

menu is prix 

fixe, offering 

three courses for 

$58.00. Chef Max 

Holbrook and 

his team offer 

a globally-inspired menu of small plates that 

is available after 8:00 p.m. Duck confit with 

gnocchi and fresh Monforte Dairy curds is a 

knock-out, as is the house-made lobster ravioli. 

There is a superior cheese plate of Monforte 

Dairy selections. Bijou also serves an excellent 

“Global Dim Sum” Sunday brunch that is 

offered à la carte for easy sharing. 74 Wellington Street 

(front), 105 Erie Street (back), 519-273-5000, www.bijourestaurant.com. 

The Bruce Restaurant 

The rooms are chic with comfortable squarebacked 

upholstered chairs and settees and the 

propriety of white-linen dining. Chef Arron 

Carley served as sous chef to Jason Bangerter at 

Luma. (Bangerter 

is now the 

executive chef at 

Langdon Hall.) 

Carley interned 

with Chef 

René Redzepi 

at Denmark’s 

Noma, a Michelin 

two-star 

restaurant that 

has been named 

best restaurant 

in the world on 

four occasions. 

Returning to 

Canada, Carley 

worked as a 

sous chef under 

John Horne, executive chef at Toronto’s Canoe 

restaurant before being head-hunted by The 

Bruce last year. 

His aim is to add his voice to the culinary 

narrative of New Canadian cuisine by 

integrating only indigenous ingredients into 

his culinary repertoire. Think wild Haida Gwaii 

ivory salmon with Wabigoon wild rice, morels, 

nettle purée, fennel kelp oil and wild ginger 

broth, or opt for Quebec Cerf du Boileau venison 

striploin with charred and brined carrots, 

golden beets, reindeer moss, Saskatoon berries, 

green alder jus and beet purée. The Bruce has 

dispensed with the prix fixe menu offered for the 

last two seasons. At the time of this writing there 

is a four-course tasting menu for $95.00 and sixcourse 

tasting menu for $115.00. Wine pairings 

are an additional $49.00 and $55.00 respectively. 

Breakfast, lunch and Sunday brunch are à la

Our Gelato is ready! 


carte and The Lounge offers a separate menu. 

The top-flight wine list offers many wonderful 

choices. There is a stunning terrace for al fresco 

dining. 89 Parkview Drive, 519-508-7100, www.thebruce.ca 

And our new Ice Cream Bars! 

hint: get them before they are gone! 

Mon to Sat 9am to 6pm, Sun 10am to 5pm 

reimagined + reinvented + revealed 

dining 

tête-à-têtes 

weddings 

concerts 

dinner shows 

519.273.3424 

celebrate@revival.house 

Formerly 

The Church Restaurant 

Keystone Alley Café 

A refurbished Keystone Alley Café has opened 

under the ownership of home-towner Kim 

Hurley, and Anthony Jordaan. Native to South 

Africa, Jordaan is a trained chef with experience 

in South Africa, Zambia, Vancouver and 

Nunavut. The menus of executive chef Cortney 

Zettler and sous chef Tina Logassi (Stratford 

Chefs School graduates) are driven by local 

sourcing with an offering of daily blackboard 

features. There is a dish at dinner called Three 

Little Pigs that showcases the delicious heritage 

pork from Church Hill Farms. There is herbed 

crumbed schnitzel with wilted kale, pork and 

truffle pasta with sage crema, and sausage 

braised cabbage. A vegetarian taco at lunch is 

served open-faced on grilled flatbread featuring 

produce from Soiled Reputation, Shallot Hill 

and other local producers that come to the 

kitchen door. A lunch feature called Meat 

and Bread will showcase locally reared meats 

procured from McIntosh Farms and Church Hill 

Farms. We like the grilled “Buffalo” cauliflower 

with roasted radish, lentils, kale chips, pistachio 

purée and hot sauce. (That’s Buffalo meaning 

the sauce, not the city.) There is a small wine 

offering and a smart patio. 34 Brunswick Street, 

519-271-5645, www.keystonealley.com 

Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + Hotel 

The recently relaunched Mercer Kitchen/Beer 

Hall/ Hotel offers fifteen draft lines, Stratford’s 

only cask engine, and over 120 beer brands, 

including award-winners and hard to find 

one-offs that rotate quickly. Half the bottles are 

Ontario brews. The refurbished interior projects 

a casual, more accessible ambience. Food and 

beverage manager Alex Kastner has added 

some communal tables to foster the sense of 

community. In a conscious decision to eliminate


any trappings of fine dining the service staff wear 

jeans and custom t-shirts. The casual brasseriestyle 

ambience is essentially inspired by the 

izakaya, the informal Japanese beer pubs that 

Chef Ryan O’Donnell frequented in Japan. 

O’Donnell’s well-thought-out all-day menu 

is divided into categories: fresh salads, small 

plates, medium plates, substantials, fried 

chicken & wings, sides, burgers & bowls, 

and desserts. The 40-plus item menu, with 

interesting sides and condiments, gives you 

many reasons to return. The menu has Asian 

influences. Interesting cultural interpretations 

include Mercer’s tonkatsu pork schnitzel 

coated in panko breadcrumbs; chicken karrage 

(Japanese-style fried chicken) with lemon 

togarashi mayo; and improbably delicious 

steamed pork buns with spicy aioli. There are 

Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + Hotel 

pig tails with chili potato salad, in homage to 

Huron-Perth’s Germanic heritage with buttered 

biscuits and baked beans. Pastry chef Simon 

Briggs, who is also an instructor alongside 

O’Donnell at Stratford Chefs School, is part of 

the high-functioning 18-member kitchen team. 

Comfortable guest rooms that have had a recent 

face-lift are located above the restaurant. 

104-108 Ontario Street, 519-271-9202 , www.mercerhall.ca 

The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar 

This is a new arrival in Stratford, with 

seasonally-inspired lunch, dinner and late 

night menus using many locally procured 

ingredients. The menu at this high-energy 

bistro evokes the gastropub sensibility with 

rustic from-scratch items like ham hock terrine 

house pickle, apple chutney, cheese savoury 

and house made bread, crispy pork jowl with 

arugula salad, and hot smoked salmon with 

horseradish mousse, peppered watercress and 

toasted pumpernickel. When is the last time you 

ate charbroiled Blanbrook Bison Farms bison 

sliders with house-cured vanilla bacon, onion 

marmalade, brioche and triple cooked fries? 

Chef Chris Powell prepares a superior Caesar

The Mill Stone Restaurant & Bar 


salad. Chef received his culinary training in 

England and honed his craft and personal 

culinary style in the U.K. and Spain. His cooking 

repertoire includes pastry work and Modern 

European cuisine. A couple of back tables 

overlook the Avon River, and there is a small 

charming street-side patio. 30 Ontario Street, 

519-273-5886, www.themillstone.ca 

Heritage 

meets Hip. 

We make food that we want 

to eat. From local sources. 

From heritage pork to linecaught 

west coast seafood. 

Cooked from scratch. We 

support farmers & artisans. 

We take beer seriously, with 

one of the largest craft beer 

selections in Ontario, 15 

draft lines, and Stratford's 

only cask engine. 104-108 Ontario St, Stratford 

519.271.9202 or 1.888.816.4011 

www.mercerhall.ca 

Monforte on Wellington 

Ruth Klahsen’s down-to-earth osteria features 

a seasonally–inspired menu that includes 

charcuterie and cheese boards, salads and many 

other in-house specialties inspired by a Monforte 

Dairy cheese. We love the unpretentiousness, 

the corn dog fritters with beer mustard, baked 

brin d’amour with honey and crackers, and 

the rich buttery water buffalo ice cream. This 

is the perfect place for a grilled cheese or some 

comforting mac and cheese. Klahsen’s deeprooted 

commitment to things sustainable, 

local and hand-crafted seems to continue to 

both fortify and nourish her creative drive and 

dedicated entrepreneurism. There is a charming 

intimate courtyard for al fresco dining where 

we have been 

fêted by Frances, 

the gracious 

manager, on 

several occasions. 

We love the 

friendly in-depth 

explanations about 

the provenance of 

each ingredient. 

On a recent visit 

her hospitality 

extended to trying 

to procure for us 

some of the recently 

released moonshine 

from Junction 

56 Distillery. The 

casual osteria is BYOW with a reasonable $15 

corkage fee, or, if you order a glass of VQA wine, 

they will bring you a full bottle and charge you by 

the ounce for what you drink. 80 Wellington St., 

519-301-7256, www.facebook.com/MonforteOnWellington


Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria 

This street-level ristorante proffers rustic Italianinspired 

cuisine, in a contemporary setting 

overlooking the Avon River. Stratford Chefs 

School alumna Chef Yva Santini is celebrating 

her ninth season at Pazzo Taverna. Chef has a 

reputation for crafting authentically appealing 

cuisine that gratifies and stimulates, while 

adding her own interpretation to the Italian 

REST A U R A NT & B A R 

NOW OPEN 

Diverse, seasonally inspired menu 

using locally sourced ingredients. 

Refined wine list, Ontario beers 

& hand-crafted cocktails. 

culinary canon with an eye to seasonality and 

the Perth County terroir. Santini uses quality 

ingredients combined with fresh, simple 

seasonal ideas that are executed with finesse, 

classic Italian methods and culinary traditions. 

Hand stretched burrata and pastas and gnocchi 

make up the heart of the menu. Pastas are made 

in-house by hand using Italian “00” flour, and 

are impeccable in execution. Who can forget 

Santini’s Red Fife cavatelli? Chef showcases the 

simple, natural flavours of locally-sourced meats 

and produce in the Italian tradition. A diverse list 

of Canadian and imported wines are available 

by the glass and bottle. The Pizzeria serves the 

best thin crust pizza in the area. This is where the 

locals hang out. 70 Ontario Street, 519-273-6666, www.pazzo.ca 

The Prune 

Since 1977 The Prune has been a Stratford 

favourite. Chef Bryan Steele has been both 

chef de cuisine at The Prune and an educator 

at the Stratford Chefs School since 1989. Chef 

acquired a degree in chemistry from Queen’s 

University before turning his prodigious 

talents to gastronomy. He spent four years 

working in restaurants in Italy, Germany and 

New York before arriving in Stratford. 

Steele’s cuisine mirrors an idiosyncratic 

cooking sensibility that is global and erudite 

and inspired in part by the bounty of regional 

artisan producers and growers. The menu is 

prix fixe, offering two courses for $55.00, three 

courses for $69.00, or four courses for $79.00. 

This arrangement is meant to expedite the 

challenges of pre-theatre dining where theatre- 

themillstoneON 

519.273.5886 

30 Ontario Street, Stratford 

themillstone.ca


goers arrive and depart simultaneously. The 

menu is designed for a prix fixe experience but 

is also available à la carte upon your request. 

Appetizer dishes might include chicken 

liver mousse, seabuckthorn and brioche, or 

asparagus and frisée salad, soft egg, chorizo, 

“piperade” vinaigrette. Traditional main dishes 

might include grilled skate wing with sambal, 

pineapple nage and cucumber, or glazed 

Muscovy duck, honey, star anise, currants and 

cinnamon caps. Grilled rib steak (for two), 

Swiss chard gratin, buttermilk onion rings has a 

supplement charge of $10 per person. Sides are 

an additional $8. There is a charming outdoor 

patio. 151 Albert St, 519-271-5052, www.theprune.com 

The Red Rabbit 

“A locally sourced restaurant, run by workers, 

owned by workers, shared by the community,” 

pretty much sums up The Red Rabbit’s ethos. 

Chef Sean Collins terms his cooking as “Flavour 

First, Ingredient Driven.” Chef says, “We cook 

food we like to eat.” The lunch menu is served 

Sunday and 

Monday from 12 

to 2:30 pm and 

is also available 

from 5 to 7 pm, 

and Tuesday to 

Saturday from 

12 to 2:30. At 

lunch there is 

superb creamy 

fried polenta and 

duck egg with 

chermoula. A 

proper breakfast 

is served with 

fried eggs, local 

pork, beans and 

focaccia. The 

heat quotient 

on the spicy hot chicken sandwich with sweet 

pickle, tzatziki, house-made bun and hand-cut 

fries keeps us coming back. The falafel plate 

is four perfectly prepared chickpea fritters 

served with seasoned tabbouleh and tiny pots 

of harissa, tahini and garlic aioli. The prix fixe 

dinner menu offers roasted McIntosh Farm 

whole duck with awesome red curry and sticky 

rice, hanger steak with pickled local greens, 

asparagus pancake and nitro hollandaise, 

sustainably-caught roasted lake pickerel, and 

shepherd’s pie with Church Hill Farm’s braised 

lamb. The prix fixe menu is available Tuesday 

through Saturday from 5 pm to 7 pm, offering 

two courses for $44.00 and three courses for 

$49.00. Small plates menu available Thursday 

to Saturday 7 to 9 pm. The Red Rabbit is known 

for Colonel Collins fried chicken and waffles. 

It’s a secret recipe of thirteen herbs and spices, 

maple syrup and carrot hot sauce, and served 

with house-cut fries, and has become a cultish 

Stratford staple. 64 Wellington Street, 519-305-6464, 

www.redrabbitresto.com 

Revival House and The Chapel 

Stratford’s newest home for quality live music, 

dining, and events continues to play host 

to many touring and local Canadian artists 

throughout the summer season. Chef Byron 

Hallett has assembled a kitchen team 

passionate about creating and serving food that 

expresses the depth of Perth County’s food. 

Last year we began our visits with an exquisite 

Ontario Gouda Tasting. This year the kitchen 

is offering an Ontario Cheddar tasting. There 

is a sublime torchon of foie with apple, puffed 

grains, pecans and chervil for $20. Trout tartar 

is served with celeriac variations, shallot, herbs 

and Yukon Gold chips. Charcuterie boards 

are underpinned by technique and skill and 

the salumi has plenty of flavour. Offerings 

have included speck (smoked pork leg), lonza 

(cured pork loin), coppa (salt-cured from 

the neck) and rillettes. On the dinner menu 

typical offerings might be monkfish in crispy 

chicken skin with salsify, tomatoes, parmesan, 

arugula, and capers, or lamb shoulder with 

fava beans, charred zucchini, patty pan, pearl


onion, and radish with lamb jus. There are some 

interesting late night après-theatre plates. It 

should be noted that there were 22 VQA’s on 

the impressive wine list at last glance. Upstairs, 

The Chapel features a 60-seat gastro lounge 

and a VIP balcony called Confession. In season 

Revival House features a smart patio. 70 Brunswick 

Street, 519-273-3424, www.revival.house 

Rundles 

This is high-end contemporary French cuisine, 

artfully plated, with a world influence. 

Neil Baxter has been chef de cuisine at 

Rundles since 1981. Rundles has always been 

synonymous with classicism and a rarified 

level of oenophile sophistication. 

the appetizer section, a main dish, dessert, 

and coffee or tea for $114.50 per person. Wine, 

taxes and service are extra. An extensive wine 

list features vintages that range from small, 

local, boutique winery selections to those of 

the exceptional Grand Crus of Bordeaux. The 

Garden Room, with floor-to-ceiling windows, 

offers a relaxing ambience and the perfect 

lounge to enjoy cocktails before or after dinner. 

9 Cobourg Street, 519-271-6442 www.rundlesrestaurant.com 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large. 

There is a small and interesting table d’hôte 

featuring six appetizers, six main courses, and 

desserts. Appetizers might include smoked 

trout and pickled asparagus with coddled 

quail’s eggs, and dill cream; or rabbit and foie 

gras rillettes garnished with pickled cherries, 

pistachio yogurt, and violet mustard. Main 

dishes might include pan fried halibut cheeks, 

roast curried celery root, fingerling potatoes, 

capicola, and dashi (Japanese-style, clear 

sauce); or barbecued pork belly pickled cockles, 

steamed bok choy and sea asparagus. The 

table d’hôte menu features a selection from 

celebrating local farmers & producers, 

with our fresh and seasonal items 

Reservations 519 271-5645 

34 Brunswick Street, Stratford 

behind the Avon Theatre 

Catering | Private Events | Accommodations 

keystonealley.com 

A Locally Sourced Restaurant. Run by workers. Owned by workers. 

Shared by the Community. 

{ } 

NOW OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 

May to October 

Call 519.305.6464 

for menu details 

@redrabbitresto 

64 Wellington St, Stratford 

www.redrabbitresto.com 

519.305.6464


road trips 

Festivals, Food & 

Fun! 

Exploring the Charms of Chatham-Kent 


SPONSORED BY 

By DARIN COOK 

Whether making the short drive 

up from Essex county or coming 

down from more northern 

parts of Ontario, taking a trip 

to Chatham-Kent (C-K) between May and 

September will bring you here in the midst 

of festival season, when there are a variety of 

events to appeal to many tastes. The season 

generally kicks off with RetroFest in late May. 

Chatham lives up to its name of Classic Car 

Capital of Canada; visitors can walk the main 

downtown drag to encounter hundreds of 

classic cars, and a few Elvis impersonators, 

during this weekend-long auto show. FireFest 

(September 17) continues the interest for 

vehicle enthusiasts by showcasing vintage 

and modern fire trucks along the same 

downtown strip. 

Highlighting the area’s rich agricultural 

history, other events revolve around food 

and drink. Grapes to Glass (June 18), C-K’s 

first wine festival at The Kent 1874 Event 

Centre, celebrates regional wines, including 

some of Early Acres Estate Winery’s reds, 

Some of North America’s best automotive-themed festivals are 

found in Chatham-Kent, Canada’s Classic Car Capital 

whites, and blushes which have collectively 

garnered eighteen awards for the winery 

since opening in 2012. Located just outside 

Chatham, Early Acres holds monthly 

summer events, such as Rocking the Vines 

(July 17), with local entertainment on its 

country estate. 

Ribfest (July 8-10) in Tecumseh Park 

attracts rib vendors, including Chatham’s 

own Blazin’ BBQ Ribhouse, winner of 

numerous awards from the BBQ circuit. 

If farm-to-table food appeals, C-K Table, 

organized by a collective of farmers, 

is becoming a brand name in the area 

showcasing local food in a variety of 

community events. This year began with 

C-K Table Junior in May. In collaboration 

with C-K chefs, a Grade 3/4 class created a 

locally-sourced meal for diners, including 

a gardening project to grow the vegetables. 

The C-K Table events are always evolving 

and this year a recurring program called 

Farmer for a Day is being introduced. This 

weekend travel package is an opportunity 

for city slickers to work alongside 

farmers to learn about vegetable 

growing, grain production, or 

livestock husbandry. 

If you extend your visit into more 

than a day trip, Retro Suites Hotel at 

the corner of King and William Street 

is the place you want to spend the 

night. Even if this is your only stop 

in Chatham, spending a night here 

is worth it for the architecture and 

décor alone. This boutique hotel, 

with 52 individually-themed suites, 

was honoured with TripAdvisor’s 

Travelers’ Choice Award in the Best 

Hotels section in all of Canada in 

2015. 

When dinner rolls around, here 

are a few downtown hot spots.


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1065 Wharncliffe Road South 519-680-1900


On the street level of Retro Suites, 

with an atmosphere matching the 

hotel, The Chilled Cork is a funky 

restaurant where Chef Leona 

Williamson cranks out exquisite 

contemporary dishes from the 

kitchen. A short walk down King 

Street, Mamma Maria’s Ristorante 

has become the area’s best Italian 

experience. The old world ambience 

feels as Italian as the food tastes. 

Beyond the downtown core, 

Spice & Curry located on Kiel Drive, 

is the city’s best-kept secret. It’s run by 

business partners Shelly Sakhuja and Chef 

Gurmeet Singh. Chef cheerfully toils in the 

kitchen sending out the aroma of simmering 

sauces with spices roasted and ground from 

scratch. Shelly works the front of house, 

pleasantly greeting and seating guests and 

delivering steaming bowls of curry and 

baskets of still-warn Naan bread. You cannot 

go wrong with any menu options, especially 

the Tikka Masala and Madras dishes, which 

Chef will adjust to your preferred heat level. 

Must-tries for appetizers are the onion 

pakoras and the garlic cauliflower. 

RETRO SUITES HOTEL 

In the heart of downtown Chatham a turn of the 

century hotel is now the boutique Retro Suites 

If you have checked into a room, a nightcap 

at Sam’s Percolator might be in order. This 

is a downtown coffee shop by day and craft 

beer bar by night, with a revolving selection 

of canned beer from places like Collective 

Arts Brewing in Hamilton and Sawdust City 

Brewing Co. of Gravenhurst. If some late night 

nibbles are in order, Frendz Restaurant & 

Lounge has a menu with an international mix 

of food — Spanish paella, Cuban sandwiches, 

Asian stir-fries, Mexican nachos, Indian 

samosas. For a twist on a Canadian standby, 

A stunning display of architecture 

and downtown style linked between 

9 historic buildings. 

An inviting place to celebrate, work or relax. 

A turn-of-the-century hotel transformed into a modern luxury 

boutique hotel that meets the distinct needs of both corporate and 

leisure guests. Special services for weddings and functions, with 

unparalleled amenities and 45 individually-designed guest suites 

— plus another 7 long-term suites — for a total of 52. 

The Chilled 

519.351.5885 or 1.866.617.3876 • 2 King Street West, Chatham ON • retrosuites.com 

Casual Fine Dining 

in an eclectic & 

chic atmosphere. 

A modern take on traditional 

favourites & international 

cuisine 

• Seasonal Menu 

• Local Ingredients 

• Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Find old world ambience and traditional Italian 

cuisine at Mamma Maria on King Street (above). 

Sams Percolator (below) is coffee shop by day and 

craft beer bar by night. 

Taste the good times on 

our patio overlooking 

the beauty of 

Rondeau Bay 

try the tasty poutine with truffle oil and Asiago 

gravy. Both the bar and patio overlook King 

Street so you can enjoy the scenery while 

pairing your food with a full drink menu, 

including Ontario beers on tap like Iron Spike. 

For a relaxing, morning espresso in a coffee 

shop with fireplaces and exposed brick walls, 

visit William Street Café, which has been a 

classic fixture next to Retro Suites for years. 

After that, a short drive to Chatham’s Breakfast 

House & Grille on Grand Ave. is in order 

for breakfast favourites, including frittatas, 

Simple food. 

Local produce. 

Great beer. 

970 Ross Lane, Erieau 

519.676.1888 

www.baysidebrewing.com 

Bayside Brew Pub 

60 seats + patio 

wood-burning oven 

Wining is Our Business 

invites you 

The Korpan Family 

to visit Early Acres! 

Frendz Restaurant and Lounge also has a sunny 

street-side patio 

9494 Pioneer Line, Chatham 

519-354-9070 

info@earlyacresestatewinery.ca 

www.earlyacresestatewinery.ca 

Winery Retail Shop Hours 

Thurs & Fri 11am–6pm • Sat 11am–5pm


paninis, and several 

unique takes on Eggs 

Benedict. For a few 

quick lunch options 

later, Hungry Sam’s 

(located inside Sam’s 

Percolator) serves 

a rotating menu of 

lunchtime favourites, 

like a Montreal 

Smoked Meat 

Sandwich and Cream 

of Asparagus Soup. 

The menu is posted on 

social media daily to 

draw in followers with its tasty offerings. For a 

fresh and healthy take on fast food, Eat What’s 

Good on St. Clair Street, just a jog over the 

Thames River bridge going out of downtown, 

has a completely vegan, gluten-free, and 

locally-sourced menu. With weekly deliveries 

of fresh produce from River Bell Market 

Garden in Dresden, owners Emily Meko and 

Russell Colebrook creatively use produce from 

the farm throughout the year. They offer a 

delicious sweet and herbal Basil Cheesecake 

with local basil and spinach, and use sweet 

potatoes in the Ultimate Taco Salad. 

Once you have attended a festival or 

enjoyed the food of a few restaurants, you may 

want to see what else the area has to offer. A 

map of the municipality will help you navigate 

the county roads to find the smaller centres of 

C-K. Most notable would be a trip to Dresden, 

twenty minutes north of Chatham, where 

you can take in Uncle Tom’s Cabin as part 

of the African Canadian Heritage Tour that 

commemorates the role of the Underground 

Railroad in the slavery freedom movement. 

Here you can also visit the area’s only certified 

organic farm, River Bell Market Garden, for 


Uncle Tom’s Cabin Historic Site is located 

near Dresden, just north of Chatham 

Parks Blueberries offers a pick-your-own option 

the unique experience of strolling through 

the fields and greenhouses that yield over 30 

types of fruits and vegetables available in the 

on-farm market. 

“Down the street and around the corner, but worth every inch of effort.” 

Retail • Further Processing 

Our Own Quality Raised Pork • Free Run Eggs 

Sausages & Deli Products • Mrs. D’s Jams etc. 

Catering For All Occasions • Custom Barbecues 

10910 Northwood Line, RR#2, Kent Bridge ON 

www.rmeats.com 519-351-7711

a step closer to Italy... 


Family-owned & operated, siblingsTina and Len 

are celebrating 10 years of bringing a genuine 

taste of Italy to Chatham. In homage to their 

mother Maria, they insist upon from-scratch 

cooking using the best of local ingrendients. 

The restaurant is sophisticated yet approachable. 

A beautiful patio overlooks the Thames River. 

Catering and well-appointed private function 

rooms are available. 

231 King Street West, Chatham 

519-360-1600 

Open for Dinner Daily / Lunch Monday-Saturday 

www.mammamariasristorante.ca 

Frendz is run by the creative team of Brenda 

Boismier and Chef Marc King. The warm, cozy 

Resto/Lounge is designed for friends to gather for 

good food and good times. Weekend entertainment 

features local talent. The upscale yet affordable 

menu features international cuisine, prepared from 

scratch, from Spanish tapas to steak and seafood. 

Craft beer is on tap, an extensive drink menu is 

on offer, and this may be the best patio in town. 

216 King Street West, Chatham 

519-436-1313 

Open Tuesday–Saturday for Lunch & Dinner 

a step closer 

www.frendzlounge.com 

to home...


Continuing on the 

agri-tourism route, Parks 

Blueberries on Highway 

2 lets you turn farm work 

into fun by partaking in 

the pick-your-own option 

on 50 acres of fields. 

Aside from freshly-picked 

blueberries, the country 

store is full of preserves, 

kitchen supplies, and 

handcrafts. You will 

also want to sample the 

blueberry-filled baked 

goods. 

Heading south of Chatham, you could find 

yourself in the middle of a cherry spitting 

contest at Blenheim’s Cherry Festival (July 

16-17). Taking that southbound drive further, 

you will reach the fishing village of Erieau 

where Bayside Brew Pub provides craft beer 

and wood-fired pizzas in a perfect setting 

overlooking Lake Erie. The pizzas are the 

crowd favourite with names like Erieau Heat 

Wave (spicy chorizo, chillies, and Kalamata 

olives) and Long Pond BBQ (pulled pork, 

roasted red peppers, and caramelized 

onions). Bayside also throws a twist on other 

pub food like Chicken Wings from the Fire, 

Wind down at the Bayside Brew Pub in Erieau, overlooking Rondeau Bay 

and Beer Battered Onion Rings. 

This is a mere taste of what C-K offers and, 

if you can’t fit all this in to one trip, fear not, 

because there is plenty more to explore your 

next time through. 

Author’s Note: Some of the festivals have 

passed by time of publishing, but they are 

typically recurring events every summer 

during the indicated months. 

Based out of Chatham, DARIN COOK is a freelance writer 

and regular contributor to eatdrink. 

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farmers & artisans 

Booch’s Business is Bubbling 

Booch Organic Kombucha, in London, and Beyond 

By EMILY STEWART 

Perhaps you have spotted Booch 

Organic Kombucha owners Shawn 

Slade and Shannon Kamins selling 

Booch at the Covent Garden 

Market, and wondered what was inside the 

bottle of kombucha. 

Slade explains that kombucha is a 

fermented steeped tea beverage made with 

sugar and SCOBY (symbiotic culture of 

bacteria and yeast). After some time, the 

yeast culture and bacteria are removed, 

creating a tea filled with probiotics. Organic 

ingredients then flavour the kombucha, 

which is fermented again before it’s bottled. 

Slade adds that the bubbly beverage has 

ancient Chinese origins, and was called 

“a main elixir of life”. The fizzy tea became 

popular in recent years after “some scientific 

research has shown that kombucha does have 

beneficial probiotics, and yeasts, and acids in a 

beverage that are going to help aid and heal an 

individual’s digestive system,” he says, adding 

that kombucha contains electrolytes, a touch 

of caffeine and b-vitamins. 

Slade explains that selling Booch is “an 

opportunity to educate and make people 

aware that fermented foods and probiotics are 

[a] very important part of a healthy lifestyle.” 

Before starting this business Slade was 

a holistic lifestyle coach and personal 

Shannon Kamins and Shawn Slade, 

co-owners of Booch Organic Kombucha 

trainer. “Shannon herself has had digestive 

problems for a very long time in her life,” he 

mentions, “Through her healing her gut in 

her journey, she had discovered fermented 

foods, and started making kombucha.” 

Booch Organic Kombucha has been 

popping up in about 70 Southwestern 

Ontario retailers and restaurants in the past 

year. Mike Fish, co-owner and sommelier 

of Glassroots, serves the product in his new 

Richmond Row plant-based eatery. He says 

that along with a media focus on gut health 

and the push to support local businesses,



Slade and Kamins’ 

marketing is another 

reason why Booch has 

spiked in popularity this 

past year. “They’re at a 

lot of events and they are 

very supportive of other 

businesses as well.” 

With regard to the 

soaring demand, Slade 

notes “We do try to 

source things locally, with 

focus on environmental 

sustainability, so our core 

values of the company 

really, I think, resonate 

with people and that also 

creates a lot of interest in 

what we’re doing.” 

Forging Partnerships 

Booch Organic Kombucha’s values were 

reflected when they created 250 bottles of 

a special First Anniversary brew. Kamins 

describes the flavour, as a “very smoked maple 

syrup flavour with a citrusy pine taste”. 

In the beeswax sealed bottle, there is 

amber maple syrup from Mt. Forest, smoked 

schisandra berries from Port Stanley 

restaurant The New New Age, and white 

foraged pine needles from Aylmer. 

“We really wanted to highlight the fact we 

really care about supporting local farmers, 

but also educating the public on what’s 

seasonal at that time,” says Kamins. 

Their passion for environmental sustainability 

is reflected in their London retail 

store and brewery plans. Proceeds from 

their loyalty card will support the Canadian 

Biotechnology Action Network. The card 

will be made out of seeds. “We’re motivating 

people to actually plant the seed once they 

get their free kombucha to grow flowers to 

help the bees.” Also, bottles will be refillable 

at the store. 

Glenn Whitehead, principal of Plant 

Matter Kitchen, said Booch was one of the 

first businesses they contacted, because of 

similar values. “Organic, local and plantbased 

are three really important things for 

us, and Booch hit all three right out of the 

park.” Whitehead added the restaurant 

hopes to use the product in margaritas and 

other beverages made with organic vodka, 

gin, and/or tequila. 

Other restaurants are experimenting as 

Booch on tap at Wortley Village’s 

Plant Matter Kitchen 

well. Stephen Hotchkiss, 

owner and herb crafter 

of the New New Age 

in Port Stanley said 

they also make Booch 

ice cream floats, and 

“elixirs” combined 

with cold pressed juice. 

Hotchkiss has become 

close friends with the 

owners. “Their passion 

for their product comes 

through in every bottle 

and they are truly some 

of the kindest and most 

genuine people I have 

ever met.” Glassroots 

also has Booch on 

the menu, and will be 

serving a Lemon Basil 

Gin and Tonic with lemon juice, gin, basil 

and Booch tonic water. 

Slade and Kamins offer some Booch cocktail 

recommendations and other recipes including 

a rhubarb cardamom vanilla drink. “It’s a fun 

way of enjoying Booch and just having a good 

time outside.” Slade suggests Citrus Twist in a 

mimosa, he adds that customers have found 

Raspberry Lemon “goes great with vodka on a 

hot summers’ day.” 

What’s Next for Booch? 

The pair’s London retail store and brewery 

will be launched with the loyalty card 

program, bulk cases of kombucha and six 

flavours on tap. Seasonal flavours such as 

Rhubarb Red Bud Raspberry and original 

favourites including Citrus Twist and 

Raspberry Lemon will be served. 

Slade and Kamins have recently opened 

a retail store in Toronto. “It’s really nice to 

be able to grow and get out there more so 

people can try something that we make with 

our love,” Kamins says. 

Booch Organic Kombucha 

1010 Dundas Street, London, Ontario 

519-933-2909 

www.boochorganickombucha.com 

The website includes a list of locations where Booch Organic 

Kombucha is sold or served. 

EMILY STEWART is a Western University and Fanshawe 

College alumna who enjoys checking out local restaurants and any 

kind of pasta dish.

D in 

anada 


restaurants 

An Authentic Taste of Elgin County 

Dining at Old Favourites and New in Port Stanley 

Photograph courtesy Ontario Tourism 


A 

postcard-perfect fishing village 

on the shores of Lake Erie, Port 

Stanley is known for its harbour, 

colourful heritage buildings, 

and the iconic King George VI lift bridge. 

Regular visitors to “Port,” as it is known by 

locals, are attracted to the village’s dynamic 

artistic community, Port Stanley Festival 

Theatre, galleries and specialty shops. A big 

draw is the main beach, which offers one 

of the best stretches of sandy beach on the 

north shore of Lake Erie and is home to a 

newly refurbished pier. 

The fledgling Main Street Taqueria is now 

serving tacos, burritos, tamales and fresh salsa. 

Shebaz’s Shawarma & Falafel is another 

new addition to the village. Be sure to stop 

by Killer Desserts and Café, known for its 

gluten-free sandwiches, made-from-scratch 

soups, and cheesecakes. Another great stop on 

any culinary tour is the Harbourtown Fudge 

store, next to the historic Telegraph House 

Heritage Inn, both operated by Jon and Vicci 

Coughlin. For casual fare, don’t forget about 

the landmark Mackie’s at the main beach, 

celebrating 105 years in Port Stanley. The 

following are more detailed suggestions for an 

authentic taste of Port Stanley. 

ars! 

WindjammerDINE 

The 

STAY 

Recommended in Where To Eat In Canada for 10 years 

NEW Light Fare Menu in the afternoons 

INN 

OPEN Tuesday–Sunday for Lunch, Dinner & Weekend Brunch 

324 Smith St, Port Stanley • 519-782-4173 • www.thewindjammerinn.com


Kettle Creek Inn 

Nestled in the heart of Port Stanley, this 

historic inn is one of “Ontario’s Finest Inns.” 

Jean and Gary Vedova opened the doors to 

Kettle Creek Inn in 1983, after renovating the 

building. The Vedovas, along with sons Troy 

and Dean, are hands-on. Additionally chef 

Rob Lapman keeps the Inn’s kitchen fresh 

and relevant. Menus showcase a commitment 

to the area with ingredients that are farmed, 

fished or foraged locally, such as the perch and 

pickerel that arrive in the kitchen daily. The 

Local Country 

Honey & Maple Syrup 

OPEN: 11am – 5pm 

205 Main Street, Port Stanley 

519-782-3006 

www.telegraphhouse.com 


Ontario-reared meats are all fresh products, 

and signature dishes include a locally-revered 

pot pie. Recent menu items include an 

appetizer of white beer-cured salmon with 

Dijon mussels, pickled onions, crispy capers 

and toasted pretzel bread. At dinner there is 

an entrée of grilled sterling silver teres major 

steak (beef shoulder) with charred broccolini, 

pickled enoki mushrooms, chili jam, fried 

beef wanton and cilantro. Kettle Creek’s wine 

program features the estate wineries of Lake 

Erie North Shore, which includes Cooper’s 

Hawk, Mastronardi, Sanson, Sprucewood 

and Pelee Island. The Inn has 10 guest rooms 

and five luxury suites. Dining options include 

a parlour with a cozy fireplace, an intimate 

English-inspired pub, two dining rooms, a 

gazebo and a stunning garden terrace. Jean 

tells us, “Guests can prop up their feet on their 

porch or balcony, sip a libation and amble 

down for dinner under the gazebo. It doesn’t 

get much better.” 216 Joseph Street. 

The New New Age 

This is a casual farm-to-table bistro, brew pub 

and herbal tea company. Stephen and Katie 

Hotchkiss moved to southwestern Ontario 

from Los Angeles in 2014 to start cultivating 

medicinal and culinary herbs on their family 

farm. As herbalists, artists and foragers, Stephen 

says, they’ve “fallen in love with Ontario’s 

biodiverse Carolinian forests, and conceived 

Watch the trains go 

by on our large PATIO 

– NOW OPEN! 

600 Talbot Street 

St. Thomas ON 

519-637-1567 

legendstavern.ca

Photograph by Katie Hotchkiss 


The New 

New Age 

as a celebration 

of the 

bounty of 

Ontario’s 

southwest.” 

The 

bistro is 

committed 

to 

organic ingredients and the majority of ingredients 

are sourced on their own farm or from 

local growers. Their micro-brew pub, known 

as Last Castle Brewing, specializes in seasonal 

batches of farmhouse, sour and herbal ales 

that use only organic and wild crafted ingredients. 

Field Magic, their signature farmhouse 

ale, uses a recently re-discovered variety of 

Ontario heritage hops known as Bertwell. The 

hops are provided by one of Elgin County’s 

best organic growers, Common Ground 

Farm. There is a line of herbal teas available 

made from ingredients grown on their farm 

or sourced organically from elsewhere. 286 

Bridge Street. 

Good food 

comes naturally 

Indulge in fully hand-crafted 

dishes with only the freshest local 

ingredients designed by creative 

tastemakers in Port Stanley, ON. 

Restaurant & Bar 

226 658 0999 

soloportstanley.com 

From fine dining 

to fresh produce, 

farmers’ markets 

and wineries...


Solo on Main 

Port Stanley’s latest culinary hot spot is 

located in the heritage home previously 

occupied by Mickey’s Boathouse. Solo on 

Main is a family-run business with chef 

Lauren Van Dixhoorn at the helm, twin 

brother Paul on the bar and floor, and sister 

Lyndsay handling the restaurant’s business 

details. In seasonable weather there is a 

smartly appointed patio and inviting front 

porch that offers alfresco seating and great 

“Port” views. Inside, there is a charming 

growers & creators of fine lavender products 

DISCOVER 

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a 

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta 

INDULGE 

in our unique handcrafted lavender products 

ESCAPE 

in the wonderful scent and 

calming powers of lavender 

519-494-5525 

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

buds@steedandcompany.com 

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4 

Mother’s Day through Christmas 

www.steedandcompany.com 

Enjoy 

Our Annual 

Lavender Fairy 

Festival 

Saturday, August 6 

Noon–4pm 

Bring 

YourWings! 


walnut bar in the lounge, topped with 

quartz. The casual white-linen dining 

room with its original hardwood floors is 

decorated in warm gray tones and the walls 

are adorned with local art. The cooking is 

refined and the presentation modern and 

thoughtful. Van Dixhoorn and sous chef 

Brooke Cowitz, alumni of Niagara College’s 

Canadian Food and Wine Institute, worked 

together at Queen’s Landing in Niagaraon-the-Lake 

where they became steadfast 

friends. Smoked steelhead trout frites with 

scallions, crème fraiche, crispy shallots and 

Guinness hollandaise are an inspired take 

on poutine. Chef has upped the ante with 

her classic rendition of bones and toast, an 

offering of roasted marrow bone with salt 

chimichurri sauce and garlic rubbed bread. 

There is an assertively modern Italian flavour 

to the “Solo and Share Plates” menu, which 

is available all day, offering items like nduja 

(spreadable pork sausage) crostini, housemade 

pappardelle, mozzarella arancini, 

and a rotation of excellent daily risottos. The 

evening menu features roast chicken, flank 

steak with chimichurri, and pan roasted 

tenderloin with shallot anchovy compound 

butter. There are pickerel and perch, Lake 

Erie staples, either pan fried or breaded. The 

culinary experience succeeds on many levels. 

187 Main Street. 

Ontario Produce Year Round 

Local Meats, Cheeses & Eggs 

Bulk Foods & Pet Food 

Quality & Freshness Since 1991 

Drop in and stock up on local bounty 

on your trip to the lake and enjoy a 

delicious taste of Elgin County at home! 

Fresh 

Local 

Produce 

1030 Talbot St., St. Thomas 519-633-9691 briwoodfarmmarket.com


The Windjammer Inn 

Just off the main beach in Port Stanley, this is 

the former Shephard House (1854), built by 

Samuel Shephard, a prominent local grain 

merchant. Owner and accomplished chef 

Kim Saunders sources her ingredients from 

the large farm network in Elgin County. In her 

eleventh season, her personal culinary style is 

evident on the menus, which state the kitchen’s 

food philosophy. “We use Local and Organic, 

Ethically Raised Products as much as possible. 

Thank you to our Farmers!” Saunders, who was 

raised on a farm, grows many of her own herbs, 

edible flowers and heirloom vegetables in the 

gardens surrounding the Inn. Saunders honed 

her craft in a number of Toronto restaurants 

before purchasing the Windjammer Inn. Lake 

Erie fresh line-caught perch and pickerel are 

available in season. Think lightly smoke-roasted 

Everspring duck breast with ricotta herb 

208 Main Street, Port Stanley 

226-658-TACO (8226) 

www.facebook.com/mainstreettaqueria 

FLAVOUR 

gnocchi, roasted broccoli and rhubarb ginger 

chutney. A recent feature was roasted venison, 

hunter-style, sweet potato wedges and wild leek 

chimichurri. Scratch breads, artisanal cheeses, 

fresh farm produce, local meats and Saunders’ 

baking round out the menu. In season, the 

restaurant has seating on the newly rebuilt 

wraparound porch. The Inn has three tastefully 

appointed rooms and two separate rooms next 

door. 324 Smith Street. 

Several other restaurants specialize in 

featuring famous Lake Erie pickerel and 

perch (both yellow and white) and other 

delicious local catch. Port Stanley’s diverse 

culinary establishments offer up an 

authentic taste of the region, whether you 

are a connoisseur or simply appreciate a 

glass of wine or a cold beer.. 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large 

SELECTION 

QUALITY 

Monday–Saturday 10-5 

Sunday 11–4 

519-782-7800 

223-A Colborne St. 

Port Stanley 

peppertreespice.com 

SERVICE 

PASSION



The BUZZ ... new and notable 

We are proud to announce that Sue 

Sutherland Wood has won first prize 

from the Periodical Writers Association 

of Canada for her contribution to eatdrink 

#53 (eatdrink.ca/sue-sutherland-wood/). “Big Girl Pantries” is 

a gem, as are all of Sue’s hilariously poignant essays. Find her 

latest contribution in “The Lighter Side” column on page 62, 

and check out Sue’s blog at speranzanow.com. 

The first annual Colombian Gastronomy Festival will be 

held July 23rd from 4 pm to midnight, outside Covent Garden 

Market, offering authentic Colombian food with a unique 

flavour of Latin music and tasty cold beer. 

London Rib Fest returns to Victoria Park July 28 to August 

1, featuring an array of ribs, fun exhibits and rides. 

David’s Bistro will be closed July 1–15 for holidays, opening 

Saturday July 16th at 5pm. David’s Bistro was opened in 1998 

by chef/restaurateur David Chapman. The classic French 

bistro is a venerated downtown London culinary anchor. 

Chef Elvis Drennan’s new dinner menu features classic 

items like duck leg confit with lingonberry sauce and rosti, 

and herb-crusted wild boar tenderloin with grilled celeriac, 

red wine jus and lima beans. There is an excellent selection 

of wine available. www.davidsbistro.ca 

Due to a small fire the Campus Hi-Fi was closed for 

renovation, but re-opened in early June. This Richmond Row 

fixture has been offering reasonably priced quintessential 

diner food since 1957. www.campushifi.ca 

We send condolences to Chef Gino Parco and his employees 

at Porcino and the many other neighbouring businesses 

devastated by fire that recently roared through their Hyde 

Park plaza. We’re hoping for a speedy recovery for all. 

Ogilvies Market is now open Saturdays from 9am–4pm 

until Thanksgiving at 1331 Hyde Park Road. The focus is on 

local and healthy. Find them on Facebook. 

Petit Paris is proud to present The Coop Rotisserie in 

Covent Garden Market. The Coop is focusing on simple 

rotisserie chicken dinners with several sauce and side 

choices, made in house from as many local and whole 

ingredients as possible including fresh cut fries, a selection 

of fresh salads, daily soups, mac ‘n’ cheese and delectable 

desserts baked daily. There is a simple but delicious 

breakfast menu. Take out or dine in. 

London’s Destination 

for Culinary Excellence 

33 

Years of 

Extraordinary 

Service 

Reserve a 

Private Room 

for Your 

Party! 

Continental cuisine – with a 

contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. 

From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, 

Michael’s makes your celebration an event. 

142 fullarton at richmond 

Lunch Tuesday to Friday 

Dinner 7 Nights a Week 

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm 

1 York Street 

519-672-0111 Free On-Site Parking 

Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com 

for Weekly Specials and Theme Nights Info 

Gift Certificates 

Make the 

Perfect Gift


Covent Garden Market Outdoor Farmers’ Market 

offers fresh, local food from May to December. The vendors 

selling at the Farmers’ Market “grow it, raise it, bake it, or 

make it.” The Farmers’ Market hosts free cooking classes 

every Saturday outside on Rotary Square from 11am-noon. 

This is a unique opportunity to learn a new dish featuring 

products fresh from the market. In the case of inclement 

weather, classes will be held upstairs in the market kitchen. 

Field Gate Organics along with Smith Cheese are outside 

at the market every Saturday 10:30am–noon offering up 

delicious organic sliders, hot off the barbeque and topped 

with the cheese of the day by Smith Cheese. At the Thursday 

Market the expert chefs at Jill’s Table help get the local 

food party going with fantastic recipes and delicious 

samples. Thursdays 8 am–2 pm and Saturdays 8 am–1 pm 

Chris’ Country Cuts is an old school butcher shop in 

Covent Garden Market, selling only local product, grain 

fed, non-anti-biotic and growth hormone free, using only 

one supplier for each product to ensure that the product 

meets its high standards. For example, all beef products 

are sourced from Norwich Packers, lamb is procured from 

a small farm just outside of Strathroy, poultry from Little 

Sisters Chickens of Parkhill, and turkey products from 

Hayter’s Farm in Dashwood. Chris has been a vendor in the 

market since it reopened 17 years ago. Everything is cut and 

processed on site. www.chriscountrycuts.com 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

PATIO 

Now 

Open! 

Outdoor Farmers’ Market 

Thursdays 8am–2pm & Saturdays 8am–1pm 

Outdoor Cooking Classes, Saturday 11–noon, 

outside on Rotary Square. Live Music Saturdays, 

10:30am–12:30pm. Family Storytime, 10–10:30am. 

Colombian Gastronomy Festival 

Saturday, July 23, 4pm–12 midnight 

First annual festival, with authentic Colombian 

food with the unique flavour of Latin music and 

tasty cold beer. Presented by Stereo Caliente 

Entertainment on Market Square. 

Forest City Beer Fest 

Saturday, August 13, 1pm–12 midnight 

Downtown London’s annual celebration of craft 

beer. Free to the public . Discover something 

new with over 20 brewers and Ontario cider 

producers in attendance, including local 

favourites Forked River and London Brewing 

Co-Op. Food stands and food trucks are part of 

the mix as well. www.ForestCityBeerFest.com 

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am


LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 

DINNER from 5pm daily 

432 Richmond Street 

at Carling • London 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course prix fixe 

menu option 

www.davidsbistro.ca 


On Sunday August 28, Ron Benner roasts corn for all at his 

garden installation As the Crow Flies. Part sculpture, part 

installation and part performance, the 10th Annual Corn 

Roast will feature Benner’s roving corn-roasting wagon 

Maiz Barbacoa. 1:00 to 4:00 pm at Wolf Sculpture Garden at 

Museum London. 

Farmers’ market managers have seen a shift in purchasing 

patterns. Michelle Navackas, general manager of the 

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair says “More 

customers are seeking out vegan, gluten-free, non-GMO 

and organic products. We are seeing more educated and 

informed shoppers.” Specialty vendors like The Village 

Meat Shop provide more sustainable alternatives for 

market shoppers. The Village Meat Shop is a retail outlet 

for premium, drug and hormone-free local meats and 

other quality items from a network of farms which 

includes Metzger Meats, The Whole Pig, Lena’s Lamb, 

Blanbrook Bison, Everspring Farms, and Little Sisters 

Chicken. The Harvest Pantry is another specialty vendor, 

and is focused on crafting small-batch ferments, like 

sauerkraut, kimchi, cultured mustards, miso and kombucha. 

The Root Cellar Market Kitchen serves organic juice and 

smoothies upstairs, and downstairs retails certified organic 

produce and products under the banner of On The Move 

Organics. www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca 

The restaurant at the Idlewyld Inn offers a locallyinspired 

menu of contemporary and traditional choices, 

complemented by a selection of international and local 

wines, and draught ales on tap. Desserts are impressive, 

including a chocolate fondue for two which is served with 

pound cake, madeleine, berries and cut fruit. The service 

is knowledgeable, polished and friendly. Summer BBQ in 

the Courtyard is back by popular demand. There is also an 

excellent Sunday Brunch. www.idlewyldinn.com 

The refurbished and updated Restaurant Ninety One at 

Windermere Manor relaunched to great fanfare. Chefs 

Angela Murphy and Josh Blackwell and the culinary 

team showcase a selection of innovative seasonal dishes and 

tasting menus, including seared duck breast with potato 

soufflé, chamomile and fennel and black mushroom jus, and 

braised and roasted lamb with toasted oat puree, honeyed 

turnip, olive crème fraîche, pickled strawberry and wheat 

grass jus. www.restaurantninetyone.ca 

The Springs on Springbank Drive continues to deliver 

a refined and innovative experience under the creative 

genius of Chef Andrew Wolwowicz, whose well-thoughtout 

menus are crafted from local, regional and seasonal 

ingredients. The Harrar espresso and black pepper crusted 

venison loin with a dark chocolate pomegranate gastrique is 

a classic house signature. There is a charming outdoor patio. 

www.thespringsrestaurant.com 

In early June, JJ’s Breakfast, Burgers and Beyond 

opened on Dundas Street just east of Waterloo, . The 

friendly family-run diner serves all-day breakfast.


Blu Duby recently launched a new dinner menu. Think duo of 

duck with seared breast and braised leg, with a fresh berry, red 

wine balsamic vinegar and rosemary sauce with wild blueberry 

jelly, celeriac and sweet potato puree. www.bluduby.com 

Sunfest is a non-profit community arts group dedicated to 

promoting cross-cultural awareness and understanding of 

the arts across a range of disciplines, such as music, dance 

and the visual arts. Victoria Park, July 7th–10th. 

The 43rd edition of the Home County Music and Arts 

Festival is a celebration of folk-based traditions in Victoria 

Park. It features 30 food vendors offering a variety of 

cuisines. July 15th–17th. 

The Pride London Festival will be held July 14–24. 

Executive Chef Alfred Estephan’s Revive Kitchen officially 

opened in mid-June, at 222 Wellington Street. The stylish 

restaurant/cafe is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Offerings 

range from fresh baked croissants to brioche, as well as a 

range of breakfast entrees including delicious omelettes. Chef 

Ashton Gillespie’s lunch and dinner menus offer an interesting 

selection of locally-sourced meats, poultry and fish. Over the 

years, Estephan has been involved with many community 

initiatives and charitable organizations and intends to continue 

that tradition at Revive Kitchen. www.revivekitchen.ca 

The new Fire Roasted Coffee Company Café in Wortley 

Village reopened in mid-June. 

Downtown London’s annual celebration of craft beer, 

Forest City Beer Festival, returns on Saturday, August 

13th. Over 20 brewers and Ontario cider producers will be 

in attendance, including local favourites Forked River and 

London Brewing Co-Op. Food stands and food trucks are 

part of the mix as well. The event is free to the public and 

takes place at Covent Garden Market. 

Forked River Brewing Company won a Silver for Dead 

Parrot (red wine barrel-aged sour olde English ale with 

sour cherries) at this year’s Canadian Brewing Awards in the 

Wood and Barrel-Aged Sour Beer category. 

Stratford 

Revival House, in partnership with Bradshaws Kitchen 

Detail presents Revival House Afternoon High Tea, served 

on the last Sunday of the month from 3pm–5pm. The tea 

menu compliments house baked scones and preserves, both 

sweet and savoury, within the elegant setting of Revival 

House. Reservations are required. 

Your Local Market Co-op, the Local Community Food 

Centre, Stratford Farmers’ Market (at the Agri-plex 

on Saturdays), and the Slow Food Market (on Sundays) 

are food hubs where chefs, farmers, artists, locals and 

The nt era of Fresh Casual 

NEW PATIO 

NOW OPEN! 

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Bakery • Retail • Juice Bar 

222 Wellington Street, London 

519-204-4094 

www.revivekitchen.ca


visitors come together. Another great downtown gem is the 

General Store on Ontario Street that houses a sushi bar 

counter called Mr. Kim’s Sushi & Rolls. 

We love Foster’s Inn. It is Stratford’s original heritage 

boutique Inn, situated in a turn-of-the-century building 

and located two doors from the Avon Theatre. Foster’s Inn 

offers nine individually-appointed guest rooms, a restaurant 

and a cocktail lounge. The down-to-earth restaurant 

focuses on great steaks and classical dishes made with local 

ingredients. www.fostersinn.com 

Alan Mailloux and Barb McMahon’s Downie Street 

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table 

Hormone & Drug-Free 

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken 

THE VILLAGE 

MEAT SHOP 

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY 

Great Local BBQ Meats ! 

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR 

Metzger Meat Products • The Whole Pig 

Blanbrook Bison Farm • Lena’s Lamb • Little Sisters Chicken 

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm 

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca 


Bake House is the place for premium artisanal breads — 

high quality, hand-crafted and free of artificial additives 

and preservatives — and bills itself as “Really Good Bread 

from the Wrong Side of the Tracks.” You can find one or both 

owners in the shop, at the Slow Food Market in Market Square 

on Sundays, and on Saturdays at Western Fair Farmers’ and 

Artisans’ Market in London. www.goodbread.ca 

Madelyn’s Diner has been in business for over 30 years 

and is an iconic name in Stratford. The mission statement 

says, “It’s not about making money ... it’s about feeding the 

world, with good food, good service and good fun.” It has an 

open kitchen, friendly helpful staff with a charming 30-seat 

patio. www.madelynsdiner.ca 

Chef Rene Delafranier is a graduate of the Stratford Chefs 

School and worked in many Stratford restaurants before 

opening the eponymous French-inspired Rene’s Bistro. 

Chef and his wife Margaret Masters prepare everything 

in-house, from breads to entrées, dressings and desserts. 

An in-house specialty is P.E.I mussels, offered marinière, 

Provençal, mouclade, Portuguese and bistro-style. 

Reservations begin at 4:30pm and last reservations start at 

8:30pm. www.renesbistro.ca 

Aaron and Bronwyn Linley introduced the chef-driven 

Linley’s | A Food Shop to Stratford last summer, offering 

catering, restaurant-style food, take-away, and a stellar 

selection of gourmet fare. Choose one of their set picnic 

menus or design a custom picnic. Chef Linley has described 

his cuisine as “nouveau Ontario,” using French techniques 

and multi-cultural influences. www.linleys.ca 

Chef Robert Rose’s Canadian Grub is one of few 

restaurants in the country serving exclusively Canadian 

grown and refined products. There is a cozy sit-down area 

and a second kitchen with seating for twenty-nine people 

in the back. Rose is known for his excellent scratch soups. 

www.wawagrub.ca 

Another great shop fighting for soup supremacy off 

Stratford’s Market Square is Derek Denny’s big flavoured 

Soup Surreal on Wellington Street, featuring a repertoire of 

ever-changing offerings. www.soupsurreal.com


Susie Palach’s York St. Kitchen, everyone’s favourite 

boutique restaurant tucked away on Erie Street, is known 

for its interesting sandwiches, innovative side salads and 

homemade desserts. Palach is celebrating her 27th year of 

business. www.yorkstreetkitchen.com 

Love local food and great music? Join the crew at Molly 

Blooms. The owners of this Irish Pub are committed to 

providing guests with the best quality product, using fresh 

local ingredients whenever possible, and have just launched 

a new summer menu. www.mollybloomsstratford.com 

Revival House is proud to continue the Stratford Summer 

Music (SSM) partnership with the summer concert series. 

The Cabaret series starts July 23rd with Patricia O’Callaghan 

and Robert Kortgaard’s tribute to Leonard Cohen. Later on 

the summer schedule will be The Sondheim Jazz Project 

Quintet; Carole Pope, Opera: The Barber of Seville, and Michael 

Occhipinti Jazz Ensemble www.stratfordsummermusic.ca 

Other great culinary retailers to support in Stratford include 

Bradshaws & Kitchen Detail, Chocolate Barr’s Candies, 

Distinctly Tea, JENN & Larry’s Brittle & Shakes, Olive 

Your Favourites, Small-Mart General Mercantile, The 

Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop and Karen Hartwick’s 

Tea Leaves Tea-Tasting Bar. 

It was great to sample coffee blends and catch-up with 

Maria Fiallos and her sister Valeria at Toronto’s City Fare. 

They moved to London with their family from Nicaragua 

about 25 years ago, and later settled in St. Thomas-Elgin. 

Together they opened Las Chicas del Café, where they 

roast and package quality coffee (sourced exclusively 

from the family-run farm in the Nicaraguan rainforest) 

for restaurants, and for sale at markets and specialty food 

stores. Last June, Las Chicas del Café moved their roasting 

operations to the CASO Station in St. Thomas. www. 

laschicasdelcafe 

Come to the wild side on Savour Stratford Foraging Treks 

as seasoned forager Peter Blush of Puck’s Plenty leads 

you along beautiful forest trails in search of wild edibles. 

Take away Peter’s favourite recipes to showcase your fresh 

picks. Information and tickets at www.visitstratford.ca/ 

member/Pucks-Plenty. Puck’s Plenty offers foraging tours 

throughout the year as well as selected dates for foraging 

and feasting. These popular tours sell out quickly. 

Stratford Garlic Festival is moving inside the Stratford 

Agriplex. Enjoy cooking demonstrations, black box 

and braiding competitions, presentations and market. 

September 10–11. www.stratfordgarlicfestival.ca 

Did you know that a Stratford eatery is home to the largest 

selection of craft beers in Ontario? Mercer Kitchen, Beer 

Hall and Hotel offers 130 craft beers from around the 

world. www.mercerhall.com 

Where fresh matters. 

Visit us to sample over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics. 

Experience the freshest olive oils from across the globe, paired with 

savoury white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy. 

Bottling fresh in store since 2012. 

The 

Pristine 

live 

Tasting Bar 

All Natural • Gluten Free • Non-GMO • Healthy • Delicious 

462 Cheapside Street @ Maitland | London | 519-433-4444 

www.thepristineolive.ca



Around Our Region 

Clovermead’s Honey Festival happens on Saturdays in 

August, at the farm just north of Aylmer on Imperial Road. You’ll 

find lots of family fun, including a Bee Beard demonstration. 

The Donut Diner is a fun, funky and charmingly retro 

mini-donut trailer operating at the Pinery Market in Grand 

Bend May through Thanksgiving. Get fresh, hot, made-onthe-spot 

mini-donuts by the dozen. Watch the “donut robot” 

crank out 50 dozen donuts per hour and say hello to The 

Donut Lady! www.facebook.com/DonutDiner 

Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery is located on 

County Road 50 in Essex County. Sips & Sounds is a popular 

summer event featuring 

local bands playing on 

the beautiful grounds 

overlooking Lake Erie, 

every third Sunday from 

June to October. Enjoy 

picnic baskets, fresh 

housemade sangria 

or a glass of wine. 

Performances are weather 

dependent. 

Railway City Brewing 

Co. of St. Thomas won two medals at the 2016 Canadian 

Brewing Awards in Vancouver. Black Coal Stout won gold in 

the Sweet Stout or Cream Stout category, while The Witty 

Traveller won bronze in the Wheat Beer-Belgian Style (Wit) 

category. Both are currently available in LCBOs throughout 

Ontario as well as at the retail store in St. Thomas. (The Witty 

Traveller is currently a spring/summer seasonal in LCBOs, but 

available year-round at the store.) 

The newly relaunched Oxford County Cheese Trail was 

well represented at Toronto’s City Fare. We met Gurinder and 

Amarjit Singh of Ingersoll‘s Local Dairy which is housed 

in the historic Ingersoll Cheese Factory. Local Dairy produces 

cheese, cultured butter, ghee and yogurt, specializing in 

authentic Indian dairy products, Mennonite cheese, and 

traditional Mexican and Latin American crema queso and 

award-winning Oaxaca cheese. www.localdairy.ca 

Swiss-trained chocolatier and pastry chef Philippe Lehner’s 

Habitual Chocolate, a local artisan bean-to-bar company, 

produces a variety of hand-crafted, single-origin chocolates 

that it retails by the bar and in drinking chocolate form. 

Habitual makes a full line of fine confectionery from chocolate 

in its Woodstock premises. www.habitualchocolate.com 

Frank and Elizabeth Ihrig of Hessenland Country Inn 

near St. Joseph want to help define Huron County as a new 

wine region. The couple planted vines last year, and anticipate 

pouring Hessenland’s first vintage in 2018. The Ihrigs aren’t the 

first to grow grapes in the region, with nearby Maelstrom 

Winery (in Seaforth) and Alton Farms Estate Winery (in 

Lambton County) already producing wine. The owners of Dark 

Horse Estate Winery (east of Grand Bend next to the Huron 

County Playhouse) are putting the finishing touches on their 

winery, expected to open this summer. 

Ontario’s Southwest brought the region’s food, wine and beer 

to the Toronto culinary scene and made a big splash with the 

City Fare event on May 26th at 99 Sudbury. The event featured 

over 26 beer, wine and culinary partners from across the region 

and was attended by over 500 media/influencers and consumers 

from the GTA. One of the goals was to get Toronto talking about 

Ontario Southwest’s great culinary products. 

The Government of Ontario has recently approved a number 

of regulations impacting beverage alcohol in Ontario. The 

intent was to reduce 

administrative burden 

and remove barriers 

for investment and 

innovation. Highlights of 

Recent Amendments to 

Regulations under the 

Liquor Licence Act have 

now been posted on the 

AGCO website. One of 

the changes: As of July 1, 

2017, employees of liquor 

licensed establishments and LDS will be required to complete an 

approved server training course prior to their first day of work. 

We want your 

BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that you’d 

like us to share? Every issue, eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario in print, 

and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly 

with our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Food Day Canada (FDC) is an annual mid-summer 

celebration, when we share Canada’s rich culinary heritage 

and our delicious northern bounty. FDC will be held this year 

on Saturday, July 30. “It is a chance for all Canadians to join 

hands in one massive celebration in praise of our farmers 

and fishers; our chefs and researchers ... and, above all, our 

home cooks,” says founder Anita Stewart. 

TOOK (The Only on King) celebrates its favourite area 

farmers and producers with a “Food Day Canada” menu, 

July 14–August 1, at $35 for a delicious three-courses. Chef 

Arron Carley at Stratford’s The Bruce will be preparing 

a six-course tasting menu on the long weekend that will 

feature wild “Canadian Flavours.” Abruzzi is partnering 

up with Growing Chefs! Chef Dave Lamers is offering a 

three-course menu from July 18–30, featuring all the local 

suppliers and farmers he collaborates with every day. For 

each guest that orders the Food Day Canada menu, Abruzzi 

will donate $5 to Growing Chefs! 

Chef Lamers believes in engagement between, farmers, 

chefs and the general public, and sees this as a great way 

to give back to the community. Growing Chefs! educates 

children, families, and community members about 

nutrition, sustainability and healthy food systems by 

providing programs, seminars, and workshops to promote 

local and healthy eating. 

Last year, London’s Abruzzi and Stratford’s The Red 

Rabbitreceived Food Day Canada Good Food Innovation 

Awards for their efforts. www.fooddaycanada.ca


travel 

Snowbirds on the Mediterranean 

Eating Like Natives In Valencia, Spain 


Dining out in Europe can be 

an adventure, and not just a 

gastronomic one. It can be scary 

expensive sometimes. Long gone 

is the era of Europe on $5 a day. But as my 

wife and I have learned in eight years of 

snowbirding on the Mediterranean, you 

have to adapt and eat as Europeans do. 

We spent six weeks this past winter in 

Valencia, Spain, a city of 800,000 on the 

coast between Barcelona 

and Alicante. It’s a great 

wintering place: lots to see 

and do, excellent museums 

and galleries, wonderful 

architecture, beautiful beach. 

The mild maritime climate 

promises (and delivers) lots 

of sun, minimal rain, and 

wintertime highs of 12 to 22°C. 

Snow? Nada. 

that was okay, because Valencia is arguably 

an even better place for eating in. 

This city is so densely populated, it can 

support supermarkets literally every few 

blocks. The one we shopped at was two blocks 

away. Valencia is also dotted with indoor 

produce markets, including the huge Mercado 

Centrale, a ten-minute walk, reputedly the 

largest covered market in Europe, and a 

modernista architectural gem. 

Valencia is a fabulous food place 

too. The region is one of Spain’s richest 

agriculturally, the mild climate yielding 

year-round crops. And with over 2,500 

restaurants, the city is a great place for 

dining out. (See my picks below.) 

As we were on a budget, we more often 

cooked and ate at our rented apartment, but 

Valencia is rich with architectural gems (City Hall Square 

is to the left) and boasts a long stretch of beautiful 

Mediterranean beach 

Even with the currency exchange rate 

at its most punitive ($1.62 CDN), food and 

groceries were less expensive than at home, 

and with better quality fresh produce. Much 

of it comes from nearby, including the justlyfamous 

Valencia oranges. 

With alcohol factored in, our total 

comestibles bill was significantly lower. (As 

an example, the Cava my wife drank cost 

the equivalent of $3 at the supermarket; a 

similar every-day bottle at home: $14.) 

So we were happy to cook and eat at home 

most of the time, but also looked forward to


our weekly treat of a meal out. 

With so many restaurants, choosing was 

a challenge. Full disclosure: our tastes do 

not lean to experimental fare. In our book, 

fresh, good-quality ingredients, carefully 

prepared, trumps wildly inventive and 

Shop at the Mercado Centrale (top three photos) for 

fresh and local, including fava beans, ham and fresh 

seafood, or at your neighbourhood market, like the one 

in Russafa (below), Valencia’s trendiest district 


exotic. If you’re looking for cutting edge 

epicurean presentation, there’s plenty on 

offer in Valencia. Restaurants such as Ricard 

Camarena have earned a Michelin star 

by amazing patrons with an imaginative 

approach, with many surprises. But that’s 

not what we look for. 

We have three rules for dining out. First, 

ignore recommendations in mass-market 

travel guides. Chosen restaurants too often 

jack prices and start catering to foreigners. 

If you want an authentic, local dining 

experience, eat where locals do. 

Rule two follows: avoid areas tourists 

frequent most. In Valencia, we gravitated 

to Bario el Carmen, a bohemian nightclub 

district near the city centre, densely 

populated, with lots of restaurants, but too 

disheveled to attract bus tours. 

The third and most important rule: eat 

your big meal at mid-day— 2 p.m. or later in 

Spain. (Many restaurants don’t even open 

until then.) It’s a healthier way to eat, and 

can be a bargain. 

Many establishments offer a lunch-time 

fixed-price menu del dia. The best deals 

include starter, main, dessert, bread and one 

drink. We saw prices as high as €25, but you 

can pay much less and eat well. A few cases 

in point … 

Casa Paquito, a small typically Spanish 

eatery just off Plaza del Tossal in Carmen. 

The ambience is intimate, with colourful 

tile wainscoting, dark wood tables and 

interesting framed posters on the walls. The 

menu del dia for €12 included all courses, 

with five or six choices in each. 

My wife had white wine (a huge glass), a 

generous composed salad, thin and tender 

steak and fabulously rich chocolate tort. I 

ordered a beer, hearty garbanzo soup that 

reminded me of Habitant pea, a lightlybattered 

scaloppini of chicken breast with 

fries and hunter sauce, baked apple — and 

an extra glass of white wine. 

Total, tax and service included: €26. All of 

the food was good and fresh tasting. What 

would it cost in Canada? With the number of 

courses and drinks, I’m guessing close to $100. 

María Mandiles specializes in “authentic 

Valencian home cooking,” and offers outdoor 

seating in Plaza de Carmen, overlooked by a 

beautiful roccoco-fronted church. The menu 

included all courses for a rock-bottom €8.95, 

with three choices in each. 

My wife had cream of calabaza (squash)


Restaurant choices are plentiful in 

Valencia , and include Casa Paquito (left) 

and La Pizca de Sal (below) 

soup with crispy ham, followed by tender 

strips of curried chicken breast on a bed of 

buttery mashed potatoes. I ordered mixed 

salad, and Secreto Iberico, an inexpensive 

variety of the dry, fine-flavoured ham that 

is a much-loved Spanish specialty, served 

with fries and carrot dice. We both had 

house wine and, for dessert, caramel crepes 

drizzled with chocolate. 

Everything was prettily presented, fresh 

and flavourful. Perhaps not quite as good 

quality as Casa Paquito, but tremendous 

value. Total with extra glass of wine: €19.85. 

Before returning to London, our last 

meal out was at La Pizca de Sal, a long-time 

favourite. The Torre del Quart, one of the 

city’s two surviving medieval tower gates, 

looms over the square on which La Pizca sits. 

The menu del dia on the day we went with 

visiting friends was €11.90 for starter, main, 

one drink, bread and dessert. 

Our starter of preference — with one 

dissenting mixed salad order — was a tasty 

pork paella. Paella was invented in Valencia 

and the short-grain rice used in traditional 

recipes, very like arborial rice, grows nearby. 

For segundos, we all went for the quarter 

chicken roasted with potato and carrot. It 

sounds plain fare, but Spanish chicken is 

much more flavourful than the stuff we get 

at home. This was lip-smacking. 

My dessert was a superb apple flan, crusted 

with carmelized sugar. The others opted for a 

super-rich chocolate pudding. Total for four, 

with two extra drinks: €53.20. And this may 

have been the best meal out of the year. 

In Valencia, locals love to dine out and are 

spoiled for choice. That makes the restaurant 

market very competitive. Result: aboveaverage 

quality and value. 

But if you eat as locals do — main meal at 

lunch, order from fixed-price, multi-course 

menus, avoid tourist traps — you can eat 

well and relatively inexpensively anywhere 

in Mediterranean Europe. If you’re 

shopping for a place to spend the winter, 

that’s good to know. 

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance writer. 

He also took all of the photos illustrating this story. 

Valencia abounds with beautifully sophisticated street art



wine 

Could these be your BBQ BFFs? 

Six Great Wines for Summer Barbecuing 

By GARY KILLOPS 

Beer, gin and tequila are common 

beverage choices when it comes 

to barbecuing. For many, a 

burger and a beer go hand in 

hand. Wine is often not even considered 

when it comes to grilling. Perhaps to some 

it seems a bit too pretentious or maybe 

with all those smoky, spicy and sweet sauce 

flavours common in barbecuing, wine 

pairing becomes a little more complicated. 

As problematic as pairing wines with 

grilled fare can be, here are a few tips and 

wine suggestions that will help make your 

next barbecue a success! 

Let have a look at some classic barbecue 

wine pairings. 

Grilled steak works best with big, 

full-bodied red wines such as cabernet 

sauvignon. Cooked rare, the steak is best 

paired with a younger vintage. 

Gamay noir is a bistro wine and pairs 

well with burgers. Choose an Ontario 

gamay or a beaujolais cru from Burgundy. 

You could also consider malbec or 

cabernet franc as an alternative. 

Spicy sausages, baby back ribs or 

anything coated with sweet, smoky or 

spicy barbecue sauce can be paired with 

zinfandel. An Australian shiraz or any fruity, 

spicy young wine is also a good choice. 

Cedar plank salmon and pinot noir is an 

impeccable pairing. 

Grilled chicken and a light fruity sparkling 

wine work well together. You should also 

consider pairing with a dry rosé, especially 

if the chicken is coated with a sweet or 

spicy sauce. 

Shrimp and grilled vegetables (perhaps 

prosciutto-wrapped asparagus) pair 

well with sauvignon blanc’s herbaceous 

characteristics. 

Here are six summer barbecue wine 

recommendations to have on hand when 

you are ready to fire up the grill. 

Montes Alpha Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Vintages #322586, 

$19.95) — Aged 12 months in 

French oak barrels, loaded with 

concentrated blackcurrant, plum 

and cassis fruit notes along with 

chocolate and cedar tones. This 

cabernet from Chile will impress 

any wine drinker who enjoys a 

big, full-bodied red wine. Montes 

leads the way in quality Chilean 

wine and this one is comparable to 

a $40–$50 California cabernet. Great 

value! This is a protein wine and pairs 

well with medium rare grilled steak. 

13th Street Gamay Noir 2013 

(Vintages #177824, $19.95) — The 

grapes used to make this wine were 

hand-harvested gamay from the 

Whitty and Sandstone vineyards 

on the Niagara Peninsula. 

Fermentation and aging were 

done in stainless steel tanks. 

No oak was introduced into the 

process. It is a dry, mediumbodied 

wine, with racy acidity, 

ripe raspberry and red cherry 

flavours. This gulpable, bistro style 

wine pairs well with pizza, pasta, and 

barbecued burgers. 

7 Deadly Zins Old Vine 

Zinfandel (Vintages #59311, 

$24.95) — A delicious California 

blend of zinfandel and petit sirah 

(not to be confused with syrah) 

from Michael David winery in 

Lodi, California. A rich, full-bodied 

wine with spicy, jammy black fruit, 

hickory and a hint of smoke. This 

wine can handle those hard to pair 

spicy, smoky and sweet sauces that 

are often used when barbequing.


Summer Sundays 

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Enjoy local food, music 

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DATE 

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KELLY AUTHIER (the O’Chay’s) 

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Pelee Island Pinot Noir 

Reserve (LCBO #458521, $16.95) 

— Pelee Island Winery, located in 

Ontario’s Lake Erie North Shore 

wine growing region, has several 

different pinot noir wines in its 

portfolio. For the price, this is the 

best value. Dry, medium body, 

red cherry, raspberry, and a touch 

of earthiness round the palette. 

A suitable go to wine for grilled 

tuna or salmon, and mushroombased 

dishes. 

Casa Dea 2015 Dea’s Cuvée 

Sparkling (Vintages #261263, 

$18.95) — Made from chardonnay and 

pinot noir grapes grown in Casa Dea’s 

cold creek vineyard in Prince Edward 

County. A hint of pink colour when 

poured in a glass. Lively acidity with 

a touch of sweetness, ripe peach, 

fresh apricot, green apple and 

citrus notes grab your attention. 

I have a fondness for sparkling 

wines. On hot summer days they 

are the perfect backyard sippers. 

Like beer, bubbly wines are 

refreshing. 

Robert Mondavi Fumé 

Blanc 2014 (Vintages #221887, 

$22.95) — Made from 94% sauvignon 

blanc and 6% semillon grapes at 

Robert Mondavi winery in Napa 

California. Fumé blanc was 

Mondavi’s creation back in the 

late 1960s. He took sauvignon’s 

grassy, herbaceous notes, added 

some toasty oak and let the wine 

sit on the lees (spent yeast cells) 

for a period of time, resulting in a 

wine with complex, rich and round 

flavours. There is smokiness in the 

wine that complements barbecue 

entrées. 

Cheers to the summer of 2016! Fire up that 

grill and uncork a bottle of wine for a perfect 

pairing at your next barbecue. 

GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk, 

taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on 

EssexWineReview.com


BEER MATTERS 

beer matters 

Celebrate the Art of Craft Brewing 

With a Trio of Huron County Breweries 

By WAYNE NEWTON 

Finding tasty craft beer is as easy as 

one-two-three in Huron County, 

where a trio of new breweries is 

ready to satisfy thirsts. 

Cowbell Brewing, Half Hours on Earth, 

and Stone House Brewing Company are 

located in Blyth, Seaforth, and Varna 

respectively and, while they share a county 

and a passion for fresh beer, their owners are 

blazing distinct paths to success. 

Cowbell doesn’t actually yet exist, but its 

beer does. 

Its first, a kolsch called Absent Landlord, 

was too good to keep waiting, so the brewers 

decided to have it contract brewed in 

Hamilton while plans proceed to build an 

environmentally cutting edge brewery in Blyth. 

Kolsch is a German beer style using 

barley. Once Cowbell has its own brewery 

up and running in 2017, several more beer 

styles will be launched including seasonals 

and one-offs. 

“Our goal for Absent Landlord is 

to achieve broad appeal with new 

craft drinkers as well as craft beer 

enthusiasts,” Cowbell vice-president 

and general manager Grant 

Sparling says . “Based on feedback 

at our First Batch Tasting event, as 

well as early sales in the LCBO and 

restaurants, Absent Landlord has 

been very well received.” 

Absent Landlord is named for 

Henry Blyth, the British gentleman 

who purchased the entire town in 

1885, yet never visited. 

Among the restaurants serving 

Absent Landlord are the Black 

Dog and Little Inn in Bayfield, 

Hessenland at St. Joseph’s, and 

Eddington’s in Exeter. 

Ground was broken for the Cowbell 

brewery in June. “The brewery will be 

built at the south end of Blyth on 59 acres,” 

Sparling says. “Seven acres will be used for 

building and parking, 23 acres will be used 

for events space and a working farm, and 

the remaining 29 acres was reforested with 

11,000 trees — a variety of native species — 

and features walking trails/cross country 

skiing opportunities in the winter. This forest 

will provide enough carbon offset for the 

entire Cowbell facility.” 

“The building (which will house the 

restaurant/bar, retail space, brew house/ 

cellar/packaging) will be a 25,000 square 

foot barn. The building has been designed 

by Allan Avis Architects and it will look and 

feel like a century old barn — authentic to 

who we are and where we are.” 

It has taken beer geeks a nano-second to 

celebrate this year’s opening, in Seaforth, of 

A selection of craft brew from 

Half Hours on Earth, in Seaforths



feel like drinking at any given 

time (or season). 

“(Our) favourite beers and 

styles change often. And a lot of 

what we do prefer, doesn’t really 

follow style guidelines. Currently 

we’ve been enjoying fruited 

sour ales and lightly tart/heavily 

hopped Farmhouse-style ales.” 

In Varna, Mike Corrie draws 

water from a 250-foot well to brew 

a pilsner, lager and IPA, all under 

the Stone House name at Huron 

County’s original craft brewery. 

Stone House Pilsner is a crisp 

Czech style, available in refillable 

growlers. 

Cowbell Brewing of Blyth offers Absent Landlord 

through the LCBO, and pubs and restaurants 

Half Hours on Earth. The original intent of Huron County 

natives Kyle Teichert and Kristen Harburn might have 

been low key, but the reality is anything but. 

Named for how long it takes to savour a really wellcrafted 

beer (30 minutes), Half Hours on Earth has a 

constantly rotating selection of beer styles and recipes 

brewed in small batches. 

Beer lovers can take their chances by dropping into 

the brewery store and buying whatever is on the shelf, 

but the more certain approach is to take advantage of a 

new ordering system. Beers are selected online based on 

availability, then picked up at the store on Saturdays. 

A beer delivery system is in the works, but there are no 

plans to market through the LCBO or grocery stores. 

“We got into brewing because we love variety,” 

Teichert said. “We plan 

to brew according to 

what style of beer we 

Stone House, in Varna, was Huron 

County’s first craft brewery 

Selected in 

TOP 10 

Beer Bars 

in Canada


The Stone House tasting room is also 

home to food pairing events featuring 

cheeses, fish and spicy foods. 

Cowbell Brewing Co. 

Flagship beer Absent Landlord Kolsch, 

available at select LCBO outlets and pubs. 

Actual brewery opens in 2017 at the corner of 

Highway 4 and Road 25 in Blyth. 

www.cowbellbrewing.com 

Half Hours on Earth 

Always rotating beers and new recipes. 

Order online and pick up at brewery store, 

151 Main St. South, Seaforth. 

www.halfhoursonearth.com 

Stone House Brewing Company 

Pilsner, lager, and IPA available. Tasting 

room. Call to book. 

76050 Parr Line, Varna, five kilometres east 

of Bayfield. 

www.stonehousebrewing.ca 

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London who 

enjoys writing about beer and travel. 

Come. Sit. Stay. 

Enjoy the Dawghouse Pub & Eatery’s genuine 

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SUN–TUES 11am–1am; WED–SAT 11am–2am 

Whatever your taste, 

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UPCOMING 2016 EVENTS EVENTS IN GODERICH 

IN May 6-8 

Goderich Home July 29 12th Annual Don Johnston 

July 1 

Canada & Cottage Day Show 

Picnic to & Aug Parade 1 Memorial Slo Pitch Tourney 

May July 10 

1 The Sound Dash of for Goderich 

DiabetesJuly 31 

21st Annual Goderich 

May 15 Run Around the Square 

Firefighters Breakfast 


Lions Beef Barbecue 

May 21 Goderich Farmers’ Market Aug 1-5 

Celtic College 

to July Oct 8–10 8 

Festival (every Saturday) 

of Arts & Aug Crafts 5-7 

Celtic Roots Festival 


8–Aug 26 Goderich Piping Flea Down Market 

the Aug Sun 5-7 

(every Friday) Goderich Art Club 

to July Oct 13–16 9 

Kinsmen (every Sunday) 

Summerfest 

Annual Art Show 

May 25 Circle City Cruize Nights Aug 13-14 RC Model Air Show 


Horticultural Garden Tour 

to Sept 14 (every 2nd Wednesday) Aug 19-21 Goderich Salt Festival 


23 Downtown Memories Concerts 

Then & Now Car Show 

Aug 21 

Goderich Triathlon 

to July Aug 29–Aug 25 

1 

12th (every Annual Thursday) 

Don Johnston Sept 2-3 

Memorial West Slo Coast Pitch Bluesfest 

Tourney 

June July 18 

31 Huron’s Multicultural 21st Annual Festival 

Goderich Sept Firefighters 2-5 Labour Day Breakfast Fast Ball Tourney 

June Aug 19 

1–5 Sunday Celtic Concerts Collegeby 

Sept 18 

Terry Fox Run 

to Sept 4 Goderich Laketown Band 

Aug 5–7 

Celtic Roots Festival Oct 31 

Halloween Activities 

June 25 Goderich Children’s Festival 

Aug 5–7 

Goderich Art Club Nov Annual 5 Country Art Show Christmas Craft Show 

June 29 Circle City Beach Cruize 

Nov 5-6 

Huron Tract 

June Aug 30 

13–14 Canada RC Model Day Fireworks 

Air Show 

Spinners & Weavers 

July Aug 1 

19–21 Canada Day Goderich Picnic & Parade 

Salt Festival & Goderich Quilters’ Guild 

July Aug 1 

21 

Dash Goderich for Diabetes 

Triathlon 

Show & Sale 


Lions Beef Barbecue Nov 11 

Remembrance Day 

Sept 2–3 

West Coast Bluesfest 

July 8-10 Festival of Arts & Crafts Nov 12-13 IODE Christmas House Tour 

Sept 2–5 

Labour Day Fast Ball Tourney 


Piping Down the Sun Nov 18 

Angel Tree Ceremony 

to Sept Aug 26 

18 

Terry (every Fox Friday) 

Run Nov 19 

Santa Claus Parade 

July 13-16 Kinsmen Summerfest Nov 19 Festival of Lights Celebrations 

July 23 Horticultural Garden Tour Dates are subject to change. 

July 23 Memories Then & Now For locations and more information, 

Dates Car are Show subject to change. be sure to visit goderich.ca 

For locations and more info, be sure to visit goderich.ca. 

1-800-280-7637 •• goderich.ca goderich.ca



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theatre 

Summertime and the Theatre is Easy 

High Quality Theatre in Port Stanley, Grand Bend & Blyth 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

Summer theatre season is in full 

swing in Southwestern Ontario. 

From original Canadian plays to 

repertoire hits from Broadway, 

it’s a time to sit back, sing along and 

reflect on the artistry of our region. 

From London, there are three locally 

operated professional theatres in easy 

driving distance: Port Stanley Festival 

Theatre, Huron Country Playhouse and 

Playhouse II in Grand Bend, and the 

Blyth Festival. We are not neglecting 

the renowned Stratford Festival, which runs 

from May to October, but that is a story unto 

itself. This article celebrates the vibrancy of 

smaller, local summer theatre. 

Besides theatre, a great thing about these 

locations is that fabulous food is found 

alongside. Port Stanley offers fresh perch. Blyth 

has the lovely Part II Bistro, recently named a 

fan favourite in Huron County. Grand Bend 

is home to F.I.N.E, A Restaurant, featuring 

the talents of chefs Erryn Shephard and Ben 

Sandwith, and nearby are Hessenland Inn and 

Eddington’s of Exeter. These theatrical towns 

also offer the perfect setting for a summer’s 

picnic pre- or post-theatre, with local bounty 

readily available for your picnic basket and to 

take home in your cooler. 

Port Stanley Festival Theatre 

Newly renovated, this 202-seat professional 

theatre runs from May to September. The 

theatre always offers a 

Norm Foster play, but part 

of its mandate is to develop 

new Canadian works. 

This season there are 

two world premieres and 

one new comedy, all by 

Canadian writers. Artistic 

director Simon Joynes 

presents a new comedy 

starting July 6th, Birds of 


a Feather, billed as a battle of competitive 

bird-watchers. It is followed by another 

premier, This One, by Denise Mader, starting 

on July 27th. This solo performance should 

appeal to eatdrink readers who love pecan 

pie — and really, who doesn’t? Closing out 

the season is The Birds and the Bees by Mark 

Crawford. This is his follow-up play to Stag 

and Doe,which ran in previous summers at 

Port Stanley and at Blyth. 

“The changes that we have made will not 

only expand the experience for our patrons 

with 51 more seats, brand new HVAC systems, 

and more washrooms on the second floor, 

but we have also added a new office suite 

for our administrative staff, a new workshop 

space and new backstage facilities for our 

actors,” says Melissa Kempf, Theatre Manager. 

The theatre is in the town hall, which also 

houses the local library and some shops. 

Last summer more than 

15,000 patrons attended 

performances, with nearly 

half of them coming from 

London. It’s a pleasant 

drive to Port, and enroute 

are roadside fruit and 

vegetable stands. 

This One, July 27th–August 13


Huron Country Playhouse I & II 

As part of the Drayton family of theatre, 

Huron Country Playhouse and Playhouse 

II are much loved by cottage owners and 

residents in Lambton and Huron counties. 

Road trippers find it a perfect spot to combine 

a beach walk with some laughs, song and 

dance and general feel-good entertainment 

for all ages. This is a great place to bring the 

whole family — or send them there so you 

have the cottage to yourself for a few hours! 

The playbill features Broadway blockbuster 

repertoire such as its own Canadian version 

of Mamma Mia! Clearly, with more than 

55,000 tickets sold in 2015, summer theatregoers 

love this kind of entertainment. Last 

year the bit hits were Legends … of Rock 

‘n’ Roll and Chicago — squarely aimed at 

boomers and their families. This year the 

popular Legends series continues with 

Canadian Legends, conceived and directed 

by Artistic Director Alex Mustakas, with 

the venerable Neil Aitchison as Constable 

Archibald F. Inkster (until July 16th). It will be 

followed by Anything Goes. Over the 13-week 

season, Huron Country Playhouse will 

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Huron County Playhouse 

feature four productions while the smaller 

auditorium, Huron Country Playhouse II has 

a 10-week season featuring three productions, 

including Norm Foster’s Hilda’s Yard. 

Blyth Festival 

Since 1975, the tiny village of Blyth has swelled 

with up to twenty thousand additional visitors 

each summer, who are attending performances 

at the Blyth Festival. The theatre is 

situated on Queen Street (Highway 4), in the 

historic Blyth Community Memorial Hall and 

Centre for the Arts. The building also has a 

small art gallery and a basement hall for exhibitions 

and events. The Centre is a year-round 

hub for arts in Huron County with other performances 

in the theatre space. But it is summer 

theatre with a distinctive Canadian flair 

that draws in the visitors. Don’t be surprised to 

spot Alice Munro in the audience, and iconic 

theatre folks who slip over from Stratford to 

experience emerging Canadian talent. 

“Blyth Festival has premiered 127 scripts, 

with over half going on to second or multiple 

productions in Canada, the United States, 

Europe and Asia. Works that originated in 

Blyth have won major Canadian theatre 

awards, including the Governor General’s 

Award, the Chalmers Award and the Dora 

Mavor Moore Award,” says John McHenry, 

Director of Marketing & Development at 

Blyth Festival. 

This season Blyth Festival will celebrate 

two milestones: The Birds and the Bees by 

Mark Crawford is its 200th production, and 

is the Festival’s 

125th world 

premiere to be 

staged. Four 

productions 

run in repertoire 

through 

the summer. A 

new play on the 

Donnellys of Lucan promises to shed more 

light on the tragic tale. 

Rural hospitality shows its friendly face in 

Blyth as theatre-goers can attend “Country 

Suppers” most Friday and Saturday evenings 

beginning at 6:15. Suppers are held at either 

Trinity Anglican Church, Blyth United Church, 

Blyth Legion or Walton Hall. At intermission, 

enjoy a local Cowbell beer, crafted in Blyth by 

the Sparling family. The brewery will open in 

2017 for visitors, but is already supplying local 

establishments in Huron County. 

Right across the street from the Festival are 

two popular dining spots that have added 

an energetic vibe 

to the village of 

Blyth Festival Theatre 

1000 year-round 

residents: Queens 

Bakery for lighter 

fare, and Part II 

Bistro for casual 

fine dining (run by 

Chef Peter Gusso, 

who has dedicated 

himself to the 

development of a 

culinary scene in 

Huron County). 

Don’t miss his 

Scrim’s pork spring 

rolls and the duck 

breast with local 

Blyth goat cheese. A long-time favourite with 

actors is The Blyth Inn — affectionately called 

“The Boot” — featuring pub fare. 

It’s a summer to kick back and enjoy local 

entertainment “in your own backyard.” 

Stratford has a stellar season underway, but 

we are privileged to have other wonderful 

opportunities to enjoy locally produced 

professional theatre. 


302 Bridge Street, Port Stanley 

portstanleytheatre.ca 

Huron Country Playhouse & Playhouse II 

70689 B Line, South Huron (Grand Bend) 

Draytonentertainment.com 

Blyth Festival Theatre 

423 Queen Street (County Road #4), Blyth 

blythfestival.com 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular roving reporter for eatdrink 

magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media 

Relations at King’s University 

College in London. 

The Last Donnelly Standing, August 4–September 3


the classical beat 

A Star-Studded Summer 

In Stratford, Grand Bend, and London 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

Stratford Summer Music is the little 

music festival that could. What 

began as a modest 10-day event 

in 2001 has grown into a six-week 

extravaganza, featuring big-name stars 

performing music from across the ages and 

around the globe. 

“One of the things I insisted on when we 

started was that we grow slowly and steadily,” 

says Stratford Summer Music artistic producer, 

John Miller. “I wanted to offer the highest 

quality musical experience possible, not only 

in Stratford but in southwestern Ontario. Being 

home to the best theatre in the region, if not 

the country, I felt it was incumbent upon us to 

do the same musically.” 

Add a commitment to musical variety and 

accessibility — including numerous free 

offerings — and Stratford Summer Music 

seems to have found the recipe for enduring 

artistic and popular success. 

The festival kicks off July 18 on Tom Patterson 

Island with a firework display set to 

Berthold Carrière’s Music for a Midsummer’s 

Night. It wraps up August 28 with The 

Stratford Six, version 2.0. In between, the 

city’s streets, parks, and churches will play 

host to dozens of concerts, master classes 

and other special events. 

Some of this year’s notable guest artists 

include the Choir of Holy Trinity Church 

Measha Brueggergosman will perform in Stratford 

with the Harlem Gospel Choir from New York City 

from Stratford-Upon-Avon (Aug 4, 6 & 7), 

Canadian soprano Measha Brueggergosman 

with New York City’s Harlem Gospel Choir 

(July 20), pianists Jan Lisiecki (August 26 & 

27) and Simone Dinnerstein (July 21 & 23), 

Artie Shaw Orchestra (Aug 1 & 2) and 

London favourite Basia Bulat with 

the Sunparlour Players (July 19). 

The festival also provides plenty of 

opportunity for less formal musical 

enjoyment, including free noonhour 

concerts held daily on the 

MusicBarge, a series of weekend 

musical brunches at The Prune 

Restaurant, and Sunday morning 

Bach Walks with the Stratford Field 

Naturalists and flautists from Charm 

of Finches.


“Outside of large urban areas, it will be 

difficult to find musicians of the calibre that 

we are presenting,” Miller says. 

www.stratfordsummermusic.ca 

Summer Sunset Sounds 

Music-lovers heading to Grand Bend this 

summer may want to stake their spot in the 

sand for the third annual Summer Sunset 

Sounds, a series of free concerts held on 

the main beach every Sunday evening (or 

holiday Monday) at 7. 

This year’s 10-concert line-up includes 

headliners Sarah Smith (July 4), Pat Robitaille 

and Soul Brother Stef (August 1), Robbie 

Antone Band (August 14) and Steel City 

Rovers (August 28). 

Pat Robitaille will 

share the stage with 

Soul Brother Stef on 

the Grand Bend 

beach on August 1st 

Series organizer and Grand Bend business 

owner Glen Baille says the series continues a 

long-standing tradition of bringing music to 

the beach. “When Guy Lombardo played here 

in the 1940s, the guys in the band slept in the 

dunes,” he notes. 

Thanks to generous community support 

and a grant from the Canada 150 Community 

Infrastructure Program, this year’s concert 

series will take place on the brand new Rotary 

Community Stage. 

Summer Sunset Sounds drew close to 

6,000 spectators last year. It’s a familyfriendly 

series designed to help locals and 

visitors extend their weekend at this popular 

lakeside town, Baille says. “We have many 

residents who came to Grand Bend to have 

fun in their youth and now they are here to 

retire, but we still cater to kids. This event 

appeals to both groups.”


El Sistema Aeolian 

The stars aligned earlier this year for London’s 

El Sistema Aeolian and Bishop Cronyn 

Memorial Anglican Church. The free, afterschool 

music education program moved into 

the historic church at the corner of Queens 

Avenue and William Street this January, after 

declining parish membership forced 

the congregation to disband. 

Inspired by similar 

music programs in South 

America, El Sistema 

Aeolian was founded in 

London in 2011 with 16 

young participants working out of one 

classroom at Aeolian Hall. By this September, 

100 children from all over London will 

be making music as members of its three 

orchestras and two choirs. 

The only criterion for participation is 

attendance, says Clark Bryan, founder and 

program director for El Sistema Aeolian. With 

most children taking part in various lessons 

and rehearsals three or four afternoons each 

week, the time commitment is considerable. 

“Space means everything in terms of 

being able to create programming,” Bryan 

says. “And this church is the perfect space for 

us. It’s in the right neighbourhood and has a 

great energy.” 

El Sistema Aeolian’s seven-year lease 

includes use of the sanctuary as well as 

adjacent classrooms, a former daycare area, 

meeting rooms and a kitchen. “Having this 

facility allows us to do other projects,” 

Bryan notes. 

The Pride Men’s Chorus 

London is one of the first 

groups to make use of the new 

El Sistema space. The 30-voice 

choir has been rehearsing at Bishop Cronyn 

in anticipation of their debut performance 

on July 21 at Aeolian Hall. 

As for the kids of El Sistema Aeolian, they 

will be holding a concert in their new home 

at Bishop Cronyn Memorial Place towards 

the end of August. 

NICOLE LAIDLER has been covering the London and area 

music scene for more than a decade. See what else she’s been 

writing at www.spilledink.ca 

85 EVENTS OVER 6 WEEKS 

Basia 

Bulat 


7pm 

Joey 

Alexander 

Jazz Trio 

August 14 

2pm 

stratfordsummermusic.ca 

1.866.288.4313 

SEASON 

SPONSOR



various musical notes 

Getting Back to Some Musical Roots 

Home County and Blues Fest, in London 


This country is blessed with an 

abundance of folk and roots music 

talent — as witness the Home 

County Music & Art Festival. 

In particular, for some reason, we have 

a clutch of the best all-women harmony 

groups on the planet: the Be Good Tanyas, 

Wailin’ Jennys and — arguably best of the 

bunch — the multiple Juno-winning Good 

Lovelies. 

Local fans will have a couple of chances 

to hear the Lovelies this summer. They play 

Bayfield Town Hall in Bayfield July 29, and 

Stratford’s Revival House July 30. 

The Lovelies — Caroline Brooks, Kerri 

Ough and Sue Passmore — are touring their 

2015 album, Burn The Plan, which showcases 

the trio’s considerable song-writing talents 

and those glorious harmonies. It also adds 

some fresh new sounds and influences to 

their oeuvre. 

A Lovelies show is always a warm, 

entertaining affair, and the venues here are 

suitably folksy and down home, both with 

reputedly excellent acoustics. 

Revival House is the 

former Church Restaurant 

in downtown Stratford. 

Bayfield Town Hall is the 

white clapboard former 

church opposite Clan 

Gregor Square just off 

Highway 21 in Bayfield. 

If Home County and 

the Lovelies wake your 

inner folkie, be sure to 

take in Qristina & Quinn 

Bachand at the London 

Music Club (Friday, August 

19, 8:30 p.m., $20–$25.) 

The west coast-based 

brother-and-sister duo 

have been lighting up 

Multiple Juno award winners The Good Lovelies will be 

in Bayfield July 29, and in Stratford on July 30. 

the Celtic music world for a few years now 

(two Irish Music Awards, multiple Folk and 

Western Canadian Music nominations). 

Qristina fiddles, Quinn picks, both sing, write, 

arrange and produce. (Quinn also moonlights 

playing Bluegrass and Gypsy Jazz.) 

For the LMC date, the Bachands are 

sure to draw heavily on their excellent 

2015 album, Little Hinges, a mix of lively 

instrumentals and original songs. 

Some of the music 

sounds as if it could 

have been recorded 

100 years ago at an east 

coast kitchen party. 

Some is decidedly quirky 

and contemporary. 

Instrumentation on the 

album, for example, 

includes autoharp, 

Hammond B3, electric 

bouzouki and celeste. 

This is not your average 

Celtic band. 

Qristina and Quinn Bachand 

appear at the London Music 

Club August 19 — not your 

average Celtic band!.


Music fans, rejoice! London Blues Fest is 

back, and it’s bigger and better than ever. Best 

of all, it’s free. The festival runs August 26, 27 

and 28 at Victoria Park in downtown London, 

with 40 acts playing four stages, including two 

in licensed areas. 

The legendary Downchild Blues 

Band heads the rich list of Canadian 

and international talent on offer. 

Popular Juno and Maple Blues Award 

winning guitar tyros Steve Strongman 

and Jack DeKeyzer are also on the 

bill. For a schedule and complete list 

of acts — including bands not yet 

announced at time of writing — surf 

to www.londonbluesfest.com. 

The old blues fest, a paid event last held 

in a parking lot at King and Clarence in 

2013, found an audience among hardcore 

blues fans, but the new festival’s producer, 

Ron Schroeyens, is aiming for something 

bigger and broader in appeal. “What we’re 

Downchild Blues Band (above) and Steve Strongman will 

be among the performers at London Blues Fest 

doing is completely different [from the 

old blues fest],” says Schroeyens, 

a musician and veteran music 

producer. “We’re modeling this 

after Sunfest and Home County. 

And, you know, it’s free. That’s a 

big difference.” 

It is, indeed. And so is the 

leafy park setting, the multiple 

stages, the all-day music (5 to 

11 Friday, noon to 11 Saturday 

and Sunday), and the presence 

of many more food and 

merchandise vendors than 

the old venue could ever 

support. Schroeyens, 

partnering with Tourism 

London, Budweiser and 

other sponsors, has put together a package he 

hopes will draw fans from across the region, 

and turn London Blues Fest into a longrunning 

annual event. We hope so too. 

Who knew the Canadian Country Music 

Awards show was such a big deal? The show 

goes September 

11 at Budweiser 

Gardens, 

broadcast live 

across the 

nation on CBC 

TV, starting at 

6:45 p.m. 

The good 

news is that, as of late June, tickets to attend 

the show were still available. The bad news? 

The cheapest were selling online for almost 

$800 apiece. Tickets at the original prices 

sold out ages ago. 

But the awards show is merely the 

culmination of Country Music Week, the 

CCMA’s (Canadian Country Music 

Association) annual celebration of 

all things hurtin’ and twangy. There 

are other events, and other ways to 

get involved. For a complete list: 

www.ccma.org/fan_events.html. 

The CCMA Discovery Showcase, a 

concert featuring finalists in a contest 

to identify Canada’s next country 

music superstar, plays London Music 

Hall, September 8, 8 p.m. Tickets are 

a more reasonable $25. Go root for 

local boy Eric Ethridge of Sarnia. 

You could also volunteer to help out 

with Country Music Week. Contact: 

Patrice Whiffen at volunteer@ccma.org. 

If you just want a shot of down home, 

honest-to-goodness country music 

with a local flavour, check out Purple 

Hill Country Music Hall (Purple Hill 

Rd., off Highway 2 in Thorndale.) This 

place is the real deal. 

Get in the mood for the CCMA 

shenanigans with Purple Hill’s 

Bluegrass Opry Reunion (August 

19–21). Among other treats, it promises 

a reunion of the legendary Dixie Flyers. 

www.purplehillcountryhall.com 

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based 

freelance writer.



cookbooks 

A Taste of Haida Gwaii 

Food Gathering and Feasting at the Edge of the World 

By Susan Musgrave 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

David Phillips ran the Copper Beech 

Guest House on Haida Gwaii for 20 

years, changing it from a “dollara-night-flop-house” 

into a cottage 

style bed & breakfast that’s been visited by 

tourists, artists and politicians. In 2010 he 

turned the hotel over to his friend, Canadian 

author and teacher Susan Musgrave. She 

has lived on the island chain of Haida Gwaii 

since the early 1970s and recently became the 

Marriage Commissioner of the area. When 

asked for her qualification for this position 

she joked, “I’ve been married three times. 

Third time lucky because he’s spent most of 

our 25-year marriage in prison.” 

Musgrave has now published her first 

cookbook, A Taste of Haida Gwaii; Food 

Gathering and Feasting at the Edge of the 

World. Well, sort of cookbook. And sort 

of travel guide, memoir, and manifesto 

proclaiming, “we’re kind of weird here and 

we like it.” 

Haida Gwaii, formerly known as the Queen 

Charlotte Islands, is an archipelago off the 

North Coast of British Columbia. Its temperate 

rainforests and rugged shorelines give the area 

a stunning natural beauty. Every description 

of the place reads like a 

brochure for Paradise. 

In Taste of Haida Gwaii, 

Susan Musgrave describes 

the beauty and simplicity of 

her chosen home with great 

fondness. There’s an emphasis 

on foraging from land and 

sea on the islands. There is a 

resourcefulness one needs 

to live and cook in a place 

where shopping is done at 

the co-op and the Thrift Shop 

(where she occasionally buys 

back her own belongings 

left forgotten 

at other 

people’s 

homes). 

Every 

recipe here 

seems to 

be part of a 

larger narrative. Whether 

it’s about life on the island, the author’s 

childhood, or an unusual character from the 

rogue’s gallery of Haida Gwaii, the food is only 

part of the picture. 

I loved the idea of the Moon Over 

Naikoon, an off-grid, everything-fromscratch 

bakery that moves into a bus over 

the winter months so the locals can still have 

their daily fix. It has no set menu, serving 

whatever the staff feel like baking that day. 

This recipe for Chocolate Chip Shortbread 

was inspired by Naikoon’s coveted 

shortbread, which is no longer served 

because it got too popular. They do things a 

little differently on Haida Gwaii. 

Musgrave’s recipes are sometimes 

short on measurements but are always 

entertaining. I admire a cook who admits 

she can’t make the perfect 

looking omelette but 

insists you should try this 

one anyway just because 

it tastes so good. Which is 

my excuse for suggesting 

a recipe with no picture. 

But seriously, it’s a Crab, 

Chanterelle, Caramelized 

Onion and Goat’s Cheese 

Omelette. Who cares what 

it looks like? It’s decadent 

and delicious. 

Author Susan Musgrave


Instead of stylized food photos, the 

book is loaded with pictures of amazing 

landscapes, colourful local characters, Haida 

artwork, thrift shop decorations and, oddly, 

dogs belonging to the author’s friends. 

The hardest part of reviewing this book 

was trying to put it down long enough to 

type. I’d buy it just for Chapter Three, which 

is mostly devoted to the author’s famous 

Sourdough Bread. Actually, the hardest 

part was trying to resist the urge to book a 

vacation to the amazing Canadian treasure 

of Haida Gwaii. 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in 

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

A Taste of Haida Gwaii; Food Gathering and Feasting at the Edge of the World, Susan Musgrave, © 2015 is 

published by Whitecap Books. All rights reserved. Recipe and photographs are courtesy of Whitecap Books 

Chocolate Chip Shortbread 

Makes 35–40 cookies 

What self-respecting cookbook doesn’t include at least one cookie recipe? If I had my way I 

would live on cookies alone. Good vegetables go bad; meat, fish and chicken rot. But in my 

house, at least, there is no such thing as an inedible cookie. 

Even though Wendy Riley doesn’t make shortbread anymore because it was too 

popular, I decided I owed it to those who have never had the thrilling satisfaction of 

pressing one between their lips, to share in the ecstasy. Just spreading the love around. 

(Remember, joy is there, in everything, and even when we can’t see it.) 

This isn’t her exact recipe, because I know she used part whole-wheat flour and, I think, 

cane sugar, in the interest of making these at least pretend to be healthy. But Wendy was 

the inspiration behind this recipe. 

1 ¾ cups (410 mL) cake flour 

1 cup (240 mL) semi-sweet mini 

chocolate chips 

¾ cup (180 mL) unsalted butter at 

room temperature 

½ cup (120 mL) icing sugar 

2 tsp (10 mL) cold water 

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract 

Pinch of salt 

1 Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). 

Line two baking sheets with 

parchment paper. 

2 In a small bowl, stir flour with 

chocolate chips. 

3 In a large bowl, using an electric 

beater, beat butter until smooth, 

then gradually beat in sugar until 

fluffy, about 2–3 minutes. Beat in 

water, vanilla and salt. 

4 Using a wooden spoon, gradually 

stir in the flour mixture. 

5 Shape into 1–inch (2.5 cm) balls 

and place on baking sheets. Bake, 

a sheet at a time, until edges are 

light and golden, 15–20 minutes. 

Cool completely on a rack.



books 

Cooking as Redemption 

All or Nothing: One Chef’s Appetite for the Extreme 

by Jesse Schenker 

Nine Lives: A Chef’s Journey from Chaos to Control 

by Brandon Baltzley 

Review by DARIN COOK 

Some people whose lives 

have been shattered or 

broken by substance abuse 

have looked to the kitchen 

and cooking to help turn their lives 

around. Becoming a chef has the 

reputation of being a career move 

that can save people from sabotaging 

themselves. Two recent memoirs by 

young chefs reveal the roller coaster ride 

of keeping their cooking careers on track. 

One thing that Jesse Schenker relays in 

All or Nothing: One Chef’s Appetite for the 

Extreme (Dey Street, 2014, 25.99) is that he 

was never content to follow rules. His playful 

experimentation in the kitchen started at 

four years old with his great-grandmother. 

As a kid, he remembers “building layer upon 

layer of texture and flavour” by cooking a 

unique recipe that included packing ground 

beef around a hot dog and wrapping it 

all with a strip of bacon. Schenker writes 

about his childhood: “Food was my first 

real escape from the unease within me. 

When I couldn’t focus on anything for more 

than a few minutes at a time, food caught 

my attention like nothing else.” These 

biographical elements demonstrate the 

energy, creativity, anxiety, and intensity that 

carried over into his life as an adult chef. 

Once a month at his New York restaurant, 

Recette, he lets his imagination run wild 

with novel tasting menus, steering him 

away from making identical dishes with 

the same ingredients day after day. It is a 

risky proposition to always be re-inventing 

yourself and your menus, but self-imposed 

stakes are high for someone living an extreme 

lifestyle that pushes him 

to give it all or nothing. After years of abuse, 

Schenker made the conscious choice to 

change his addiction from one extreme to 

another, from taking drugs to cooking food, 

but he recognizes in his fast-paced, edgy 

restaurant that he is “just as addicted as 

ever — it was only the substance that had 

changed.” 

Not every good chef starts out gaining 

kitchen skills as a kid, but Schenker did, and 

so did Brandon Baltzley, as evidenced in 

Nine Lives: A Chef’s Journey from Chaos to 

Control (Gotham Books, 2013, $27.50). A love 

of food was instilled at a young age in both 

of these men who turned into outstanding 

chefs. Baltzley was a hyper nine-year-old 

when his mother opened a café, often 

bringing him to the kitchen where he was 

put to work. He writes: “Cooking held my 

attention like nothing ever had before, and 

from the first moment, I was hooked.” From 

an early age, he was caught up in the magic 

of cooking. He worked his way up in many of 

the finest restaurant kitchens in the U.S., all 

the while torturing his body with addictions.


Baltzley has 

extreme promise 

as a chef, but 

time and again 

squanders 

opportunities by 

getting caught 

up in the dark 

side of the 

industry, which 

he argues is an 

overwhelming 

part of working 

in it. He has a 

propensity to 

abuse drugs 

and alcohol to 

an extent that 

obliterates nearly 

everything in his life, but cooking remains 

constant through both the stoned and sober 

times. He writes: “A huge reason for my 

lack of focus in the kitchen was, of course, 

what was going on outside of it, which is a 

common theme in kitchens all across the 

country and, I imagine, the world. I’ve heard 

many theories attempting to explain the 

abundance of drugs and alcohol in kitchens. 

A kitchen is a high-paced, competitive, and 

sometimes stressful place, so maybe having 

a common vice tying everyone together is 

somehow a comfort.” 

Both books portray the seedy lifestyle 

that drugs dragged them into, and how 

coming back to their intense and creative 

approaches to food always gives them new 

life. If Baltzley has nine lives of chances 

at rehab, that number is at least doubled 

when referring to the lengthy resumé of 

restaurant gigs he has acquired. He realizes 

he could 

continue 

on with his 

destructive 

lifestyle, but 

it would ruin 

the career 

he has been 

tentatively 

holding 

together at a 

patchwork of 

restaurants 

across the 

U.S. The 

shame he 

feels for so 

often showing 

up to work 

extremely hungover, and the realization that 

his reputation will eventually alienate him 

from the industry, eventually gets him to 

sober up. Only by making the decision on 

his own can he eliminate his compulsion 

to use drugs and focus on building on his 

career with his own restaurant. 

Along with their achievements of 

getting clean and gaining culinary chops 

along the way, Schenker and Baltzley 

are both good storytellers, relaying very 

compelling, honest, and poignant stories 

about the intertwining of their personal 

and professional lives. For these two chefs, 

creativity in the kitchen goes hand-in-hand 

with creativity and proficiency on paper. 

Authors Brandon Baltzley (left) and Jesse Schenker 

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based out of Chatham. 

He keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the 

bookstores and restaurants of London. 

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients 

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer 

serving London & Area with different and unique ideas 

www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030



the lighter side 

A Bucketful of Memories 

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD 

Everyone has strong, wonderful 

memories imprinted with food — 

especially “comfort food” — and 

they are often the simplest, most 

uncomplicated repasts imaginable. Jamie 

Oliver has built his entire career around 

this very principle (remember when he 

was the much younger “Naked Chef” and 

it wasn’t him, it was the food?) Meals that 

let superior ingredients sing their own 

praises. Back to basics. 

Like many people, I’ve had plenty of 

expensive dinners at fine restaurants 

and in many cases all I remember is 

the bill and a sinking regret. 

Conversely, I have often 

enjoyed many happy meals (no 

pun intended) either in my car or 

in the open air with minimum fuss 

and a set of plastic cutlery. 

One such meal occurred when I 

was a teenager during my first Guy 

Fawkes Night in the UK, complete 

with a traditional supper cooked slowly 

over a fire. The night air was bitingly cold 

with a breeze provided by the North Atlantic; 

we had to stamp our feet to keep warm. The 

Guy effigy was good-to-go in his chair but as 

soon as I got that steaming foil packet with 

a crispy, charred potato, sinking with Irish 

butter and strong grated Cheddar in my 

mitted hand, I forgot all else. Lean sausages 

followed in a soft, floury bap and we washed it 

down with Pils lager. Amazing. 

On another occasion we were travelling 

in the US and just needed a quick bite. We 

were bracing ourselves for another round 

of bad-mood-inducing fast-food when a 

small white stand appeared in the parking 

lot like a mirage. I first saw the triband of 

the Argentinian flag and then as we drew 

closer, a poised, older woman sitting quietly 

on a cooler. I could smell the deep, savoury 

goodness of simmering spices and tomatoes. 

My brain immediately brought forward 

every warning article I’ve ever read about 

sketchy street food but my partner shrugged: 

“Let’s try it.” And so it came to pass that we 

leaned on our car, stretching out our backs 

and eating celestial empanadas greedily, 

from floppy paper plates in companionable 

silence, dragging the pastry through tomatillo 

sauce, the soft filling running down our 

chins. Each of us had intentionally chosen a 

different filling (grimly deciding to go down 

together) but I am ashamed now for thinking 

that way. I made sure to run back to the 

woman and tell her how delicious they really 

were and she smiled shyly but I could see 

she was pleased. 

Fast-forward to another cartrip 

(this time in New England). 

We had intended to stop at a 

place recommended by locals 

for superior seafood. But when 

we arrived, there were line-ups. 

Faint with hunger, we opted to 

get what we thought would be a 

“snack” of fried clams to share on 

our way elsewhere. But since this 

was the US, the smallest serving of 

fried clams was actually the size of a 

child’s sand-pail. 

Reader, we sat in the car listening to the 

seagulls cawing back and forth across the 

marshlands and ate every one. They were 

divine! Each long pillowy strip of clam was 

lightly crumbed before being deep-fried and 

was devoid of greasiness. They tasted exactly 

like the sea. I didn’t want that meal to end or 

to see the bottom of our ... bucket. I had to 

tip the passenger seat back on the way home 

and lie very, very still. 

There are dozens of other stories like 

this and it’s really difficult to articulate why 

each was so special at that time. Maybe it’s 

just because so much heady emotion is 

involved. Maybe it’s the same fondness that 

causes people to yearn for their Mom’s soup, 

even if it was only from a can … 

SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance writer and 

regular contributor to eatdrink. Read more of Sue’s work on her 

blog www.speranzanow.com.


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№ 60 | July/August 2016

Eatdrink #60 July/August 2016

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