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<strong>Handbook</strong><br />
2016
Table of<br />
CONTENTS<br />
5<br />
7<br />
PROTECTORS OF THE PEAT<br />
The Peat Elite<br />
Ceremony Of Peaty Commencement<br />
55<br />
57<br />
62<br />
CHAPTER 6 - A BRIEF<br />
HISTORY OF FIVE DISTILLERIES<br />
Laphroaig<br />
Bowmore<br />
9<br />
CHAPTER 1 - WAYS OF THE MALT<br />
65<br />
The Ardmore<br />
11<br />
12<br />
The Short Story Of Malt Whisky<br />
The Rule Book<br />
70<br />
73<br />
Connemara<br />
Hakushu<br />
15<br />
Grain To Glass<br />
78<br />
CHAPTER 7 - THE HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE<br />
18<br />
CHAPTER 2 - LET FLAVOR FLOW<br />
81<br />
How A Laphroaig Gets To Be<br />
A Laphroaig<br />
21<br />
22<br />
24<br />
25<br />
26<br />
Mark Of The Distillery<br />
In The Name Of Oak<br />
Manipulating The Wood<br />
Where Angels Love To Thread<br />
And Other Watery Matters<br />
Character Of Place<br />
83<br />
85<br />
87<br />
89<br />
Understanding What Makes<br />
A Bowmore A Bowmore<br />
Elaborating On The Ardmore Taste<br />
Wherefore The Uniqueness<br />
Of Connemara<br />
What Makes Hakushu So Hakushu<br />
32<br />
CHAPTER 3 - MUD, GLORIO<strong>US</strong> MUD<br />
91<br />
CHAPTER 8 - ENTER THE EXPRESSIONS<br />
34<br />
35<br />
36<br />
39<br />
A Brief Note on Peat<br />
Making The Peat Reek<br />
Tailoring The Peat<br />
CHAPTER 4 - A TASTE OF PEAT<br />
93<br />
101<br />
103<br />
107<br />
111<br />
Laphroaig<br />
Connemara<br />
Bowmore<br />
The Ardmore<br />
Hakushu<br />
43<br />
The Portfolio Distilled<br />
113<br />
CONTACT<br />
46<br />
48<br />
CHAPTER 5 - COUNTRIES OF PEAT<br />
Scotland<br />
114<br />
YOUR NOTES<br />
53<br />
Japan & Ireland<br />
121<br />
APPENDIX<br />
3.
The<br />
PEAT ELITE<br />
We welcome the 2016 fraternity<br />
of the Protectors of the Peat.<br />
It is our honor to confirm that you are among the<br />
noble, elite, hand-selected few to represent and<br />
serve an unprecedented collection of peated<br />
malts. You are now part of Beam Suntory’s<br />
illustrious history, a boggy timeline stretching<br />
back through a mellenia.
Ceremony of<br />
PEATY COMMENCEMENT<br />
The Law of the Protectors of the Peat is that we talk about peat. We talk about peat<br />
a lot. We talk about peat to consumers, to customers, and to those both within and<br />
outside our esteemed organization. If, Protector, you are in full agreement, then we<br />
ask that you swear your allegiance to this, our one and only law:<br />
As a Protector, I am a bastion of peated<br />
malts and swear to uphold all that is<br />
good and true in smoky whisky. With<br />
great peat comes great responsibility.<br />
I will act with steadfast strength and<br />
loyalty as a brand leader, building<br />
awareness for each and every malt,<br />
and spreading my knowledge and<br />
passion to everyone I meet. I will share<br />
my enthusiasm with consumers, find<br />
a shared glory in the beautiful bog,<br />
and engage them through tastings<br />
and seminars.<br />
All this, I swear, will be done responsibly,<br />
with confidence and gusto, and always,<br />
I do solemnly promise, one dram at<br />
a time.<br />
6.
Chapter One<br />
WAYS OF THE MALT<br />
7
Ways of<br />
THE MALT<br />
A whisky is defined as a spirit made from grain that has been mixed with water,<br />
then mashed and fermented to make what is called a distiller’s beer, after which it<br />
is then distilled at less than 94.5 proof and aged in wood.<br />
THERE ARE FOUR<br />
RECOGNIZED STYLES<br />
OF WHISKY<br />
• Malt<br />
• Grain<br />
• Bourbon<br />
• Irish Pot Still<br />
The Short Story of Malt Whisky<br />
The practice of distillation can be traced<br />
as far back as ancient Egypt. It is an art<br />
that fascinated great Persian alchemists,<br />
who set down in various scholarly works<br />
their hunts for the so-called water of life,<br />
some of which were translated into Latin<br />
during the 12th century.<br />
With growing knowledge of how to<br />
make a spirit from beer, the secrets of<br />
distillation are thought to have been<br />
brought to Ireland by well-traveled<br />
Irish monks. The resultant distillate was<br />
used as a medicine and a restorative,<br />
drunk either straight from the still, or<br />
flavored with botanicals during or<br />
after distillation.<br />
There is evidence of malt whisky<br />
consumption in Ireland from the 1100s<br />
onward, then a non-neutral white spirit,<br />
essentially a kind of gin, also known<br />
variously as aqua vitae, uisege breathayd<br />
and uisge beatha. If Chaucer, the English<br />
author, is to be believed, malt whisky<br />
was being made in England during<br />
the 13th century. Famously, however,<br />
the earliest written evidence for the<br />
making of whisky comes in 1494 from<br />
Scotland, where the king’s exchequer<br />
records a certain Friar John Cor as<br />
having bought “eight bolls of malt to<br />
make aqua vitae.”<br />
The distillate was consumed unaged until<br />
around the late 1700s, and the discovery<br />
that its taste improves remarkably when<br />
it is stored in oak casks introduced the<br />
idea of maturation. This practice only<br />
really took root with the Excise Act in<br />
1823, which reduced the duty paid,<br />
paving the way for exponential growth<br />
of the number of legitimate distilleries in<br />
Ireland and Scotland. Aging came first, a<br />
prerequisite for the good stuff, and then<br />
the law.<br />
ANCIENT EGYPT 1100s 1494 1700s<br />
Timeline of Distillation<br />
The Rule Book<br />
Today, for a whisky to be considered a<br />
malt whisky, it must be made primarily<br />
with malted grain. Traditionally and<br />
usually, and certainly in Scotland,<br />
where it is the law, that grain is barley,<br />
especially valued for its enzymes that<br />
convert starch to sugar (they are known<br />
as amylase), which are activated<br />
during malting.<br />
Single malt whisky is produced in<br />
batches using copper pot stills. This<br />
method is mandatory in Scotland,<br />
and followed as a matter of tradition<br />
in Ireland and Japan, where it was<br />
adopted at the turn of the 20th century.<br />
In Scotland and Ireland, the law<br />
stipulates that the distillate must be<br />
aged for a minimum of three years<br />
- specifically, in “oak” in Scotland<br />
and in “wood” in Ireland. While<br />
largely unregulated, Japan’s makers<br />
traditionally mature their whisky in oak.<br />
Copper stills at The Ardmore Distillery<br />
While we tend to think of single malt as<br />
the predominant type when speaking<br />
of malt whiskies, the blended malt is<br />
a designated whisky type, and malt<br />
whiskies make up a significant portion<br />
of Blended Scotch, by far Scotland’s<br />
most common whisky type.<br />
OFFICIALLY, IN SCOTLAND:<br />
• A Single Malt is made from<br />
a mash of 100% barley in a<br />
single distillery<br />
• A Blended Malt is a blend of<br />
two or more malts sourced<br />
from multiple distilleries<br />
• A Blended Scotch is a blend<br />
of one or more grain whiskies<br />
with one or more malts<br />
9<br />
10
Though not similarly regulated, Japan and Ireland possess similar whisky styles and<br />
types with certain differences.<br />
THEY ARE:<br />
• In both countries,<br />
blends generally<br />
consist of whiskies<br />
made in a single<br />
distillery<br />
• In Japan, a malt<br />
whisky can be<br />
made in either a<br />
pot or column still<br />
• In Ireland, a blend<br />
is usually a mix of<br />
grain and Irish pot<br />
still whisky<br />
The Ardmore Distillery Washbacks<br />
THE RULES TO MAKING MALT WHISKY<br />
(Traditionally)<br />
• Must be made with<br />
malted grain<br />
• The grain used is<br />
normally barley<br />
• Must be made with the<br />
use of copper stills<br />
• Must be made in batches<br />
Hakushu Distillery River in Autumn<br />
Finally, it’s worth remembering that malted barley constitutes 30 to 70 percent<br />
of the mash bill for Irish pot still whiskies, and it remains an essential catalytic<br />
component in the mash bill for the majority of the world’s whiskies.<br />
11<br />
12
Grain to Glass<br />
With God as our witness, Protector, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise, the<br />
making of any single-malt whisky follows roughly the same process, regardless of<br />
country, region or individual distillery.<br />
FERMENTATION<br />
TIMES FOR EACH OF<br />
OUR DISTILLERIES,<br />
PROTECTOR, ARE:<br />
• The Ardmore<br />
53 hours<br />
• Connemara<br />
Minimum 48 hours<br />
• Laphroaig<br />
Minimum 55 hours<br />
• Bowmore*<br />
48 - 100 hours<br />
• First, the barley is malted, meaning<br />
that it is steeped several times in<br />
water, for two to three days, then<br />
allowed to germinate for five to<br />
nine days, traditionally on malting<br />
floors but now more than likely in a<br />
malting drum<br />
• Next, germination is arrested by drying<br />
the sprouting barley with hot air. In<br />
this process, known as kilning, the fuel<br />
usually used is oil, gas or peat<br />
• At around 8-9 percent ABV, the<br />
resultant distiller’s beer, or wash,<br />
is usually distilled twice, first in a<br />
wash still and then in a low wines<br />
or spirits still. The first distillate (low<br />
wines) comes off the wash still at<br />
around 23 percent ABV. The second<br />
distillation sees it separated, or cut,<br />
into three parts: head, (or foreshots),<br />
middle, and tails (or feints)<br />
• The foreshots and feints are recycled<br />
into the next batch wash, while the<br />
middle cut is taken off the stills as<br />
new make and is usually diluted down<br />
to 62.5–63.5 percent ABV before<br />
being barreled and left to mature<br />
• Maturation takes place in either<br />
dunnage or rack/pallet warehouses.<br />
Casks are generally made of either<br />
used American white oak or European<br />
oak, and usually sourced from the<br />
bourbon or sherry industries<br />
• The malted barley is then milled into<br />
a grist that is then mixed, or mashed,<br />
with water in a vessel known as a<br />
mash tun. The increasingly hot water<br />
dissolves the sugar, resulting in sugared<br />
waters, or wort, which is pumped into<br />
fermentation vats, or washbacks<br />
• Lasting between 48 and 120 hours,<br />
fermentation is simply the process<br />
that sees a distiller’s yeast added,<br />
or pitched, to the wort, thereby<br />
acting as the catalyst for converting<br />
the sugar to alcohol. It’s a twopart<br />
process by which oxygen is<br />
aerobically converted by the yeast<br />
into carbon dioxide, after which<br />
it anaerobically lives off the sugar<br />
before eventually dying off. Ethyl<br />
alcohol is the main by-product<br />
Once deemed mature, different casks and batches of casks are blended as a matter<br />
of brand priority, the aim being to ensure that each new expression possesses<br />
exactly the same profile as its predecessor. The whisky is then bottled and labeled,<br />
usually off-site.<br />
*depending on type of whisky being made<br />
*depending on time in the week<br />
13<br />
14
Chapter Two<br />
LET FLAVOR FLOW<br />
15
Let<br />
FLAVOR FLOW<br />
Remember, Protector, it is your solemn duty to lay the ground for demonstrating how<br />
our peated single malts are indeed the most distinctively flavorsome whiskies known<br />
to humanity. In order to do so, and before making way for the wonders of peat, it’s<br />
important that we share what it is that makes fine malt whisky so damn tasty.<br />
Many factors combine to make malt whiskies from different countries and regions<br />
unique. Different distilleries, even when in close proximity, can and do produce<br />
very different spirits.<br />
It is generally accepted that a given single malt whisky owes its distinctive character<br />
to the distillery that gave birth to it, to the influence of local environmental factors in<br />
which it was matured, and to the types of wood(s) and cask(s) used for its maturation.<br />
Mark of the Distillery<br />
Malting the barley softens it, brings out the sugars, and gives it a much more<br />
obvious baked grain (biscuit) taste.<br />
Depending on choices made during the mash, such as the temperature of the water,<br />
the resultant wort is either cloudy or clear. Generally, and notwithstanding other<br />
production variables, cloudy worts make for a malty final spirit, and clear worts<br />
for a fruitier one. Flavor, however, develops at a much more significant rate during<br />
fermentation, the source of change being the type of yeast(s) used as well as the<br />
length of time given to the process.<br />
Briefly, in addition to ethyl alcohol, fermentation results in the production of small<br />
amounts of powerful secondary flavor compounds, formed as the result of different<br />
chemicals reacting with each other at different times during fermentation. Generally,<br />
the shorter the fermentation, the more the wash will retain those original grain notes;<br />
conversely, the longer the fermentation, the fruitier it will be.<br />
Finally, at what level these vital secondary flavors are retained in the final spirit<br />
depends on the shape of the still, the way it is operated, and the strength at which<br />
the spirit is drawn off.<br />
Laphroaig<br />
RULES OF DISTILLER THUMB:<br />
The Ardmore<br />
Hakushu<br />
Bowmore<br />
• Copper has the effect of<br />
stripping the distillate of heavier<br />
compounds, including various<br />
sulfides. The greater the amount<br />
of vapor-to-copper contact,<br />
the lighter and more elegant<br />
the final spirit; the shorter<br />
the contact, the heavier, more<br />
meaty its character<br />
• As the temperature increases,<br />
flavor compounds evaporate<br />
in order of weight, lightest to<br />
heaviest. The earlier the first cut,<br />
the more floral, grassy or green<br />
the taste of the final spirit<br />
• The later the first cut, the fruitier<br />
it will be, progressing from crisp<br />
to stewed fruits. Meanwhile, the<br />
later the second cut, the heavier<br />
the new make, with typical<br />
flavors including smoke, grain,<br />
tar and various oils<br />
• Levels of ethyl alcohol decrease<br />
throughout the run. The earlier<br />
the cut, the stronger the new<br />
make, yielding an increasingly<br />
neutral-tasting spirit. Thus, the<br />
later the cut, the lower the<br />
strength, so the greater the new<br />
make’s depth of flavor. This<br />
helps explain the milder flavor<br />
profile of grain whisky, which<br />
is typically drawn off the still at<br />
much higher strengths than potstilled<br />
malt whiskies<br />
Connemara<br />
The Five Distilleries<br />
It is thought, Protector, that the average distillery contributes to 30% of a given single<br />
malt whisky’s flavour profile.<br />
17<br />
18
In the Name of Oak<br />
PROCESS OF MATURATION<br />
While the spreading of all things peat, Protector, is our reason for living, it would be<br />
considered a dereliction of duty were we to forget the significance of the process<br />
of maturation, which has a profound effect on the final character of a single malt<br />
whisky. It does so in three general and interrelated ways:<br />
• Once in cask, the spirit expands<br />
and contracts, extracting flavors<br />
from the wood<br />
• At the same time, the process of<br />
evaporation causes unwanted flavor<br />
compounds such as sulfides to be<br />
expelled and replaced by oxygen,<br />
which acts as a catalyst for further<br />
chemical change<br />
• In time, oxygen, water and ethanol<br />
variously aid a series of chemical<br />
reactions between various compounds.<br />
The end result a balanced, complex<br />
whisky strong in fruity esters<br />
THE IMPORTANCE OF OAK<br />
By choosing the types of oak and<br />
casks used, we have much greater<br />
flexibility and control over the process<br />
of maturation.<br />
To begin, a single-malt whisky is<br />
usually laid down in either American<br />
white oak or European oak, each of<br />
which gives the distillate a distinctive<br />
flavor profile.<br />
• Whisky matured in American oak<br />
is characterized by vanilla, coconut,<br />
caramel, red fruits, sometimes ginger<br />
and almonds, and eventually leather<br />
and tobacco. The resultant liquid is<br />
usually an amber-gold color<br />
• European oak makes for a drier,<br />
tannin-heavy profile, one marked<br />
by more spice, by clove and<br />
cinnamon, by caramelized orange.<br />
The resultant liquid is usually a deep<br />
mahogany color<br />
• Occasionally, a distillate will be laid<br />
down in Japanese oak. Although it<br />
is much like European oak, it gives<br />
a whisky an extra spiciness, like that<br />
of incense, as well as a more acidic,<br />
fruity profile<br />
Barrels at Laphroaig Distillery<br />
Oak Trees give the distillate a distinctive flavour profile<br />
19<br />
20
Manipulating the Wood<br />
Beyond the effect that the type of oak used has on maturation, we are able to tailor<br />
that influence in several important ways:<br />
• While not always the case, casks<br />
are increasingly made with yardaged<br />
wood, a process that sees the<br />
oak’s tannins broken down naturally<br />
and over time, making for less<br />
astringent products<br />
• The vast majority of casks used for<br />
the maturation of single malt whisky<br />
are toasted and/or charred before<br />
being filled. Both processes involve<br />
the application of thermal heat to the<br />
insides of the casks, indirectly (toasted)<br />
or directly (charred). Each serves to<br />
caramelize the wood’s sugars, release<br />
certain wood compounds, convert<br />
others, and reduce tannins. Charring<br />
also acts as a filter, helping rid the<br />
spirit of unwanted sulfides. Toasting<br />
penetrates more deeply<br />
• The more used a cask, the less the<br />
influence it will have on the distillate.<br />
A first refill cask will impart more color<br />
and wood to the distillate, while a<br />
second or third-refill cask will allow<br />
for more of the distillery’s character to<br />
show through<br />
SINGLE MALT WHISKIES ARE<br />
ALMOST ALWAYS MATURED IN<br />
CASKS PREVIO<strong>US</strong>LY <strong>US</strong>ED FOR<br />
THE PRODUCTION OF RUM,<br />
BOURBON, SHERRY, OR WINE<br />
• Ex-Bourbon casks tend to<br />
impart the distillate with extra<br />
vanilla and caramel flavors<br />
• Ex–Pedro Ximénez (PX)<br />
casks impart the distillate<br />
with an added dry,<br />
Christmassy sweetness<br />
• Ex-oloroso casks imbue<br />
the distillate with notes of<br />
fruitcake and toffee, and a<br />
hint of struck match<br />
• Ex-wine casks are often<br />
sourced in France, and as<br />
such are made with French<br />
oak, which adds notes<br />
of spice<br />
So, Protector, easy to see, is it not, why the process of maturation should account<br />
for some 70 percent of the flavor profile of a single malt whisky.<br />
Where Angels Love to Tread<br />
and Other Watery Matters<br />
When speaking of flavor profiles, Protector, and how they influence whisky production,<br />
we would be justly whipped for not mentioning the significance of climate.<br />
Broadly speaking, wood policies - cask selection, fill strength, and warehouse<br />
strategies - take into account the effects of temperature and humidity on annual<br />
rates of evaporation:<br />
• In maritime climates such as those of<br />
Scotland, Ireland, and Japan, average<br />
temperatures are low, so a cask will<br />
lose 2-4 percent of its liquid each year<br />
• Given the high levels of humidity,<br />
the loss is more in alcohol than it<br />
is in water, so strength levels in<br />
maritime climates gradually fall<br />
during maturation<br />
The Climate on Islay effects the processes at Laphroaig Distillery<br />
and orientation of the structure,<br />
individual warehouses have<br />
their own microclimates, which<br />
is why distilleries may prioritize<br />
certain warehouses for specific<br />
brands/expressions<br />
• Maritime-influenced conditions<br />
make for slower and therefore<br />
longer maturation cycles<br />
• Depending on several factors — such<br />
as the materials used for construction<br />
Charring barrels at the Jim Beam Distillery<br />
Less specifically, one of the key factors in whisky making is the quality of water. The<br />
result of using poor water will, of course, be a poor whisky. Often, a natural source of<br />
water will be the prime reason for a distillery’s location. The type of water, hard or soft,<br />
and its chemical composition will have a direct bearing on the whisky’s final taste.<br />
21<br />
22
The Character of Place<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
Officially, Scotland is divided into five whisky areas, with the Islands (less Islay)<br />
being a part of the Highlands. Even so, people often treat the Islands as a separate<br />
region. Either way, and notwithstanding the character idiosyncrasies of individual<br />
distilleries, it is possible, Protector, to speak loosely of the regional flavor profiles of<br />
single malt Scotch whisky.<br />
6<br />
1<br />
SPEYSIDE<br />
4<br />
ISLAY<br />
Technically, Speyside lies within the<br />
Highland region, but it’s home to<br />
so many of Scotland’s malt whisky<br />
distilleries – approximately half – that<br />
it’s classified as a whisky region in its<br />
own right. This small area of land to<br />
the north west of Aberdeen produces<br />
mellow, sweet, malty and particularly<br />
fruity whiskies.<br />
Widely regarded as Whisky Island,<br />
Islay is a relatively small island that is<br />
70 miles to the west of Glasgow and<br />
inaccessible by road. There are eight<br />
active distilleries on Islay. The malt<br />
whiskies produced here have their own<br />
distinctive character and flavor; the<br />
majority are peaty, robust, and refined<br />
in equal measure, and briny.<br />
2<br />
1<br />
2<br />
HIGHLANDS<br />
5<br />
CAMPBELTOWN<br />
The Highland region is geographically<br />
the largest Scotch whisky–producing<br />
region. The rugged landscape and<br />
changing climate are reflected in the<br />
character of the region’s whiskies,<br />
which display wide variations. Too<br />
diverse to categorize, Highland<br />
whiskies can range from dry and<br />
heathery to sweet and fruity, and they<br />
become notably smoky in the west.<br />
3 LOWLANDS<br />
6<br />
Campbeltown lies on Scotland’s Kintyre<br />
peninsula. Once a major producer of<br />
whisky, it was home to as many as 28<br />
distilleries in its heyday and claimed<br />
the title Whisky Capital of the World.<br />
Today there are three distilleries in<br />
Campbeltown: Springbank, Glengyle,<br />
and Glen Scotia. Whiskies from here are<br />
generally full bodied with a deep flavor<br />
and slight sea-salt tang to the finish.<br />
THE ISLANDS<br />
4<br />
5 3<br />
The region lies south of a line drawn<br />
from the Clyde estuary on the west<br />
coast to the Tay estuary on the east<br />
coast. It is home to far fewer distilleries<br />
than the likes of Speyside and the<br />
Highlands, and its whiskies tend to be<br />
much softer and lighter in character.<br />
They often display very malty, grassy<br />
characteristics and more subtle,<br />
delicate aromas than whiskies from<br />
other regions.<br />
This area includes all the islands other<br />
than Islay, notably Jura, the Orkney<br />
Isles, Mull, the Isle of Skye, and the<br />
Isle of Arran. The characters of these<br />
whiskies vary considerably. The<br />
northernmost location for malt whisky<br />
distillation remains the Orkney Isles,<br />
where there are two distilleries, Scapa<br />
and Highland Park.<br />
Generally speaking, the west coast of Scotland, much like the Pacific Northwest<br />
of the United States, is wet, often stormy, and usually much more humid than the<br />
Highlands, which are relatively cooler and drier. The overall climate difference<br />
helps explain the difference between the whiskies made on stormy Islay and those<br />
made on the eastern mainland at The Ardmore.<br />
23<br />
24.
OWING TO THEIR RELATIVELY LOW DISTILLERY COUNT,<br />
JAPAN AND IRELAND ARE NOT BROKEN DOWN INTO<br />
REGIONS. INSTEAD, CHARACTER IS UNDERSTOOD AS<br />
BOTH NATIONAL AND INDIVIDUAL<br />
IRELAND<br />
Meanwhile, because of the predominance<br />
of pot still–style whiskies in Ireland -<br />
consisting of mashbills made of malted<br />
and unmalted barley, and typically<br />
triple distilled - the country’s whiskies<br />
are slightly oilier, more acidic, and<br />
very refined and elegant.<br />
JAPAN<br />
There is a great level of attention<br />
given to every aspect of the production<br />
of Japanese single malt whiskies, and<br />
they are renowned for not being<br />
malty, as well as for their balance and<br />
complexity, their weighty lightness,<br />
their absolute craftsmanship.<br />
But, dear friend, when discussing regions as representative of single styles, tread<br />
with care: for every pattern uncovered, so springs an anomaly. Explain, sure, but<br />
always with a pocketful of caveats, especially with respect to the Highlands, to<br />
Campbeltown, to Japan and Ireland.<br />
25<br />
26
Chapter Three<br />
MUD, GLORIO<strong>US</strong> MUD<br />
27 28.
Mud,<br />
GLORIO<strong>US</strong> MUD<br />
Welcome, Protector. Peat, mud of life, true bog, source of much that is smoke. Here<br />
we look at its history, the science behind the reek, and the differences among the<br />
various types of peated whiskies.<br />
A Brief Note on Peat<br />
Peat (turf) is an organic material composed of partially decayed vegetation. Evolutionarily<br />
speaking, it displays characteristics of both plant matter and brown coal.<br />
Peat is found in damp and marshy regions, accumulated over thousands of years,<br />
largely in so-called peatlands, and in mires or bogs. Its unique constitution is the<br />
result of perennial flooding that slows the rate at which oxygen is absorbed from<br />
the atmosphere, and thus the rate at which the vegetation decomposes.<br />
Historically, peat has been utilized as a building material, bog iron, and fertilizer, and<br />
in the Dark Ages as a holy burial site for the ritually sacrificed. Generally, however, it<br />
has been an important source of fuel: once cut and dried, it burns extremely well.<br />
Thus it is that Scottish distillers in areas bereft of fuel alternatives have used peat<br />
as a means of drying out the malting barley. The style of making peated single<br />
malt whisky was exported to Japan in 1923, where it continues to thrive. It has<br />
only recently been revived in Ireland.<br />
Making the Peat Reek<br />
While different distilleries will employ<br />
slightly different methods, in standard<br />
production peat is harvested — usually<br />
by machine, rarely by hand — and then<br />
arranged in blocks or briquettes, or broken<br />
up and arranged to dry in pyramids.<br />
It is then fed into a kiln, the heat (150-<br />
plus degrees Fahrenheit) generated,<br />
rising up through the perforated drying<br />
floor into the kiln, drying out the barley,<br />
and thus halting germination.<br />
The smoky flavor from peat is derived<br />
largely from phenolic compounds known as<br />
simple phenols, which occur in sphagnum,<br />
better known as peat moss.<br />
Other, less complementary smoky<br />
flavors, are derived from burnt wood,<br />
namely carbonyls and guaiacols.<br />
When burnt, the peat releases the<br />
simple phenols and the other less<br />
smoky compounds as vaporized oils,<br />
the resultant phenolic aroma known<br />
as peat reek. These compounds are<br />
absorbed by the damp barley, imbuing<br />
it with the taste of smoke.<br />
The less smoky flavor compounds - the<br />
carbonyls and guaiacols take the edge off<br />
the dominating phenolic flavors, which on<br />
their own impart the whisky with a more<br />
notable taste of cresol/iodine.<br />
In this respect, Protector, while used<br />
interchangeably, there is indeed a<br />
distinction between peat and smoke,<br />
with the much more phenolic whiskies<br />
(Laphroaig) better described as peaty,<br />
and the more wood-derived peated<br />
whiskies (The Ardmore, for example)<br />
best understood as smoky.<br />
Peat cutting at Bowmore Distillery<br />
Cut peat at Bowmore Distillery<br />
29<br />
30
Tailoring the Peat<br />
A peated whisky can be lightly, moderately, or heavily peated. These descriptions<br />
refer to the malted barley’s original phenol levels. These levels are measured in<br />
parts per million (PPM) of phenol.<br />
PPM LEVELS<br />
• Lightly peated whiskies are measured as less than 5 PPM phenols<br />
• Medium peated whiskies are 5–15 PPM phenols<br />
• Heavily peated whiskies are 15–50 PPM phenols<br />
• Very heavily peated whiskies can reach more than 100 PPM phenols<br />
Actual levels will depend on the length of time that the barley is exposed to the<br />
smoke, how much smoke is produced, and the type of peat used.<br />
Phenol measures are taken once the barley has been malted. The final level of peat<br />
in a whisky is generally less than the levels originally measured. Levels decrease<br />
throughout production, particularly during distillation and maturation.<br />
RULE<br />
OF THUMB<br />
The later the cut, the smokier the whisky; the<br />
longer its maturation, the softer and less smoky<br />
the whisky becomes<br />
Standing Stones by The Ardmore Distillery<br />
31<br />
32
Chapter Four<br />
A TASTE OF PEAT<br />
33
A Taste<br />
OF PEAT<br />
EVERYTHING TH<strong>US</strong> FAR M<strong>US</strong>ED, PROTECTOR, COMES<br />
DOWN TO THIS, THE MOMENT YOU APPLY YOUR<br />
NOBLE TASTE BUDS TO THAT WONDER OF WONDERS:<br />
A GLASS OF PEATED SINGLE MALT WHISKY<br />
POUR<br />
Pour yourself a measure of whisky. A<br />
nosing glass that is narrower at the<br />
top than the bottom is best. Hold it by<br />
the stem or base so as not to warm the<br />
glass. Have a bottle of unchilled water<br />
at hand. Be generous.<br />
NOSE<br />
Nose and breathe in deeply, mouth<br />
open. Think of what the aromas signify,<br />
the memories they evoke. Classic smoky<br />
aromas are the peat, but search for<br />
vanilla, caramel, and various fruits,<br />
perhaps more savory notes, too.<br />
COLOUR<br />
Hold the glass up to the light. Color<br />
doesn’t necessarily reveal age, but it<br />
does provide clues as to how the whisky<br />
was matured. A deep red-golden single<br />
malt, for example, is likely to have been<br />
matured in sherry oak casks, while a<br />
paler whisky suggests bourbon casks.<br />
TASTE<br />
Finally, sip from the glass, letting the<br />
whisky travel the length and breadth of<br />
the mouth and nestle on your tongue.<br />
As well as the aromas and flavors<br />
you’re experiencing, think about the<br />
mouthfeel - how it physically feels,<br />
whether it feels, for example, full and<br />
smooth, or sharp and thin, and whether<br />
it’s dry or sweet.<br />
John Campbell hosting a tasting at Laphoaig Distillery<br />
LEGS<br />
Hold the glass at an angle and rotate<br />
it briskly, so that the whisky coats the<br />
inside of the glass. Now hold it upright<br />
and watch the liquid form the legs as<br />
it runs down the sides of the glass.<br />
Generally speaking, the slower the<br />
legs, the higher the level of viscosity<br />
and the older the whisky.<br />
WATER<br />
Add a little water. Don’t drown the whisky.<br />
Just a few drops should be enough to<br />
release flavor compounds locked in<br />
by ethanol compounds. Now swirl the<br />
glass, nose the whisky, and take a small<br />
mouthful along with some air. You’ll be<br />
amazed at all the different aromatics and<br />
subtleties that suddenly emerge.<br />
JOY & KNOWLEDGE<br />
There are no right or wrong ways to describe the aromas and tastes you’re experiencing,<br />
but if you’re interested in talking more deeply about the taste, about how the flavors<br />
developed there, then think: malted barley, particularly peat-dried kilns; yeast and length<br />
of fermentation; stills, their size and shape, their use, and the vapor-copper contact; and<br />
type of oak and cask, warehouse conditions, and maturation strategies.<br />
There’s a science to the magic, Protector, and much of it is contained in these pages.<br />
Study it. Know it. Love it.<br />
35<br />
36
A Taste<br />
OF PEAT<br />
Our five distilleries, Protector, span not only Europe and Asia, but also the full<br />
boggy range, from light to heavy, medicinal to floral. Here are their stories: at a<br />
glance; the histories that birthed them; the individual peaty taste of each distillery.<br />
Guard them with your life. Tell all who will listen and all who won’t.<br />
The Portfolio Distilled<br />
CONNAMARA<br />
(Co-na-ma-ra)<br />
THE ARDMORE<br />
(Thee-ard-more)<br />
Established in 1891 by Adam Teacher<br />
in the Eastern Highlands, The Ardmore<br />
was initially created to serve as the<br />
keystone peated malt of Teacher’s<br />
Highland Cream, a once-legendary<br />
blend. An independent bottlers’<br />
favorite, it eventually brought out<br />
its own standard official single malt<br />
bottling in 2007, its reputation for<br />
being an old-style whisky developing<br />
a cult following all of its own.<br />
IRELAND<br />
Boundary-breaking, owned by Kilbeggan<br />
Distilling Company, distilled in Cooley<br />
Distillery, Connemara is Ireland’s first<br />
peated whiskey. An anomaly in a<br />
world dominated by triple-distilled,<br />
Irish pot still and blended whiskies, it<br />
is a double distilled single malt and<br />
combines the peatiness of an Islay<br />
whisky with Irish production qualities.<br />
BOWMORE<br />
(Bow-more)<br />
Islay’s oldest distillery, Bowmore,<br />
was founded in 1779 and is<br />
renowned for the production of<br />
super balanced peated whiskies.<br />
Its reputation cemented in the mid-<br />
20th century, under the guidance<br />
of Stanley Morrison, it has become<br />
one of the world’s most well-loved<br />
peated single malts. Bowmore was<br />
bought outright by Suntory in 1994.<br />
SCOTLAND<br />
HAK<strong>US</strong>HU<br />
(Hack-shoo)<br />
Built in 1973, a vast distillery situated in<br />
the forests of Mount Kaikomagatake,<br />
Hakushu was expressly set up as a<br />
crisp, vibrant counterpoint to Suntory’s<br />
Yamazaki distillery. It is made with<br />
water sourced from Japan’s southern<br />
alps and possesses a multitude of<br />
whisky types, all known for their direct<br />
and fresh character. Hakushu’s range<br />
of peated whiskies is world class.<br />
JAPAN<br />
LAPHROAIG<br />
(La-froyg)<br />
Situated on the wilder edges of the<br />
whisky map, on the southern coast of<br />
Islay, Laphroaig is known for producing<br />
the world’s most deeply flavored single<br />
malt whisky. Founded in 1815, it grew<br />
into a worldwide cult whisky under<br />
the guidance of distillery-owner Iain<br />
Henderson and has a Royal Warrant<br />
from HRH Prince Charles. Bought<br />
by Fortune Brands in 2005, it was<br />
rationalized under Beam Inc. in 2011.<br />
37<br />
38
Chapter Five<br />
COUNTRIES OF PEAT<br />
39
Countries<br />
OF PEAT<br />
TYPES OF SCOTTISH PEAT<br />
Today, the peat used in Scotch whiskies is largely found in Islay, the north-east<br />
Highlands and Orkney. Given these areas’ differing bioclimatic histories, the flavor<br />
enhancing characteristics of their particular peats are perceptively different:<br />
Scotland<br />
STORY OF SCOTTISH PEAT<br />
The history of peat in Scottish whisky<br />
making is near enough the history of<br />
Scotch maltings up until the 1800s. Its<br />
use as a kilning fuel was ubiquitous in the<br />
Islands, Campbeltown and the north-east<br />
Highlands, and as a whisky style, peat<br />
was dominant throughout Scotland.<br />
However, with the advent of the Industrial<br />
Revolution it was gradually replaced<br />
by more efficient fuels: first coal and<br />
later gas and oil. Even so, it remained<br />
a major feature of the industry right up<br />
until the Second World War, its prevalent<br />
use in Blended Scotches and Vatted or<br />
Pure Malts (now called Blended Malts)<br />
guaranteeing its continued importance.<br />
Since then, though, it has diminished in<br />
the Lowlands from roughly one third to<br />
virtually nothing, and in the mainland<br />
Highland distilleries from three quarters<br />
to just above nothing. Today, it is the<br />
major fuel source for kilning in only a<br />
handful of mainly island-based distilleries.<br />
Still, whatever the decline in its actual<br />
use, Scottish peat continues to occupy<br />
an extraordinarily important corner<br />
of the single malt category, defining<br />
the character of some of the world’s<br />
greatest and best-known Scottish<br />
distilleries, and serving as the main<br />
source of kilning fuel for distilleries<br />
throughout the world.<br />
The lowering of duty paid, paved the<br />
way for exponential growth of the<br />
number of legitimate distilleries in<br />
Ireland and Scotland. Aging became<br />
first a prerequisite for the good stuff,<br />
and then the law.<br />
ORKNEY<br />
The peat on Orkney falls between the<br />
two, and depending on the depth of<br />
extraction, generally results in a more<br />
floral-like smoky flavor.<br />
HIGHLANDS<br />
In the mainland Highlands, the greater<br />
ratio of wood to peat moss makes for<br />
bonfire-like smoky flavors.<br />
ISLAY<br />
Composed of a ratio of less wood<br />
to peat moss, Islay has a higher<br />
phenol count, and is therefore more<br />
medicinal in flavor.<br />
Malt grains at Laphroaig Distillery<br />
41<br />
42
SOURCE OF THE MALT<br />
Whereas in the 1800s maltings were<br />
by and large performed locally, they<br />
are now carried out by a handful of<br />
large facilities, the main suppliers being<br />
Diageo (Roseisle, Port Ellen, Glen Ord<br />
and Tamdhu), Simpsons (Tweed Valley),<br />
Bairds Malt (Abroath and Inverness),<br />
Crisp Malting Group (Buckie).<br />
A tiny rump of distilleries has retained some<br />
or all of their malting facilities. Springbank,<br />
Tamdhu and Glen Ord distilleries malt<br />
100% on site, and Laphroaig, Bowmore,<br />
Kilchoman, Highland Park, Benriach<br />
and Balvenie malt a percentage of their<br />
barley on site.<br />
Mashing machine at The Ardmore<br />
WHERE THE PEAT TORCH BURNS<br />
Just nine Scottish distilleries are defined<br />
by peat: Islay’s Laphroaig, Bowmore,<br />
Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Ardbeg, and<br />
Lagavulin, and the Highland’s Talisker,<br />
The Ardmore and Highland Park.<br />
Though not possessing the same<br />
degree of peat-centric flavor profiles,<br />
a somewhat larger group of Scottish<br />
distilleries produce significant lines<br />
of peated single malt whiskies, most<br />
obviously Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain<br />
and Springbank, but also Edradour,<br />
Jura, Tobermory, Tomintoul, Arran,<br />
Benromach and Benriach. (This is not a<br />
definitive list.)<br />
Finally, Protector, there are the closeddistillery<br />
and rarer bottlings of peated<br />
single malt whiskies to think about.<br />
Port Ellen and Bora are the best-known<br />
closed-distillery bottlings and rare<br />
official peated bottlings from the likes<br />
of Glen Garioch, Bladnoch and Glen<br />
Scotia surface from time to time.<br />
Note: While Glen Garioch, another<br />
of Beam Suntory’s distilleries, is today<br />
a non-peated whisky, this was not<br />
always the case. Together with eastern<br />
Highlands neighbor, The Ardmore, it<br />
was long known for its peaty malts, its<br />
output largely going to blends. Closed<br />
and opened several times in its long<br />
history, it was mothballed in 1994, and<br />
when reopened in 1997 the decision was<br />
made to drop the peat. We live in hope.<br />
43<br />
44
Japan<br />
The story, Protector, of Japan’s love affair with whisky is said to have begun in<br />
1864, when the Emperor Meiji reportedly took receipt of a case of Scotch or<br />
bourbon - no one’s sure which.<br />
However, it wasn’t until 1923 that the country began to make its own whisky, at<br />
Suntory’s Yamazaki Distillery. Created by owner Shinjiro Torii and the then master<br />
distiller, Masataka Taketsuru, the distillery’s very first release was the heavily<br />
peated Shirofuda, in 1929. Peat has since played a central role in the development<br />
of Japanese whiskies – single malts and blends alike.<br />
Save some experimental maltings with peat sourced from the Hokkaido peatlands,<br />
Japanese producers tend to source their peated maltings exclusively from Scotland.<br />
Apart from Yamazaki and Hakushu (Suntory), and Yoichi and Miyagikyo (Nikka),<br />
Japanese distilleries with peated whisky lines include Karuizawa, Chichibu, Mars<br />
Shinshu and Fuji-Gotembo.<br />
Ireland<br />
In terms of whiskey making, Protector, Ireland is in the middle of a serious renaissance.<br />
The number of distilleries founded in the last few years continues to grow, with new<br />
offerings cropping up regularly, particularly at Beam’s own Cooley Distillery.<br />
However, whatever the range of styles on offer, the landscape has long been<br />
dominated by Irish pot still whiskies and blends, the latter consisting of mainly<br />
pot still and grain whiskies.<br />
All of which means that the spark for the revival of the Irish peated single malt is<br />
Connemara, which sources its maltings from Port Ellen in Islay. Irish and Islay, it’s<br />
a wonderful example of a very different type of peated whiskey.<br />
Left: Hakushu Distillery in Spring<br />
45<br />
46
Chapter Six<br />
A BRIEF HISTORY<br />
OF FIVE DISTILLERIES<br />
47
A Brief History of<br />
FIVE DISTILLERIES<br />
Laphroaig<br />
The Laphroaig Distillery was officially founded in 1815 by Donald and Alexander<br />
Johnston, on the site of a farm. Laphroaig means “beautiful hollow by the broad<br />
bay”, and the location provided a steady source of water from the granite basin in<br />
the nearby Kilbride Hills.<br />
The distillery remained in family hands<br />
for the next 139 years; the latter part of<br />
the nineteenth century spent servicing<br />
the blend industry. Any single malt<br />
produced not going to blends would<br />
have been sold to locals in jugs. After<br />
managing to defeat the blend-hungry<br />
attentions of agent Peter Mackie, the<br />
distillery reserved greater portions of<br />
the distillate for itself.<br />
Under the stewardship of owner-distiller<br />
Ian Hunter, Laphroaig bottled its single<br />
malt for the first time in 1923. The distillery<br />
expanded from two to four stills. Hunter<br />
dispensed agents across the world,<br />
especially to America, where Laphroaig<br />
gained a strong foothold, and was even<br />
sold during Prohibition – on the grounds<br />
that it was a medicine. With its reputation<br />
growing, and the Laphroaig recipe<br />
finalized, Hunter was joined in 1932<br />
by Elizabeth ‘Bessie’ Leitch Williamson,<br />
who would take over as owner-distiller<br />
on Hunter’s death in 1954 – becoming<br />
Scotland’s first and only female distiller<br />
during the twentieth century.<br />
In the 1940s Hunter had already taken<br />
the decision to switch up the distillery’s<br />
wood policy, swapping the rarer and<br />
more expensive European oak exsherry<br />
cask for American white oak<br />
ex-Bourbon cask. Further expansion<br />
under both he and Williamson saw<br />
Laphroaig’s reputation cemented as<br />
the world’s most richly flavored peated<br />
single malt whisky.<br />
In 1994 the distillery was granted a<br />
Royal Warrant by HRH Prince Charles,<br />
the same year in which it officially<br />
set up Friends of Laphroaig. Prince<br />
Charles’s parting words to the then<br />
distillery manager Iain Henderson: ‘I<br />
hope you continue to use the traditional<br />
methods. I think you make the finest<br />
whisky in the world.’<br />
The master distiller baton taken up in<br />
1972 by John MacDougal, passed<br />
from Denis Nicol to Iain Henderson<br />
and finally on to John Campbell.<br />
Presently, Laphroaig is capable of a<br />
yearly produce of 3,300,000 liters.<br />
Right: Laphroaig Distillery<br />
49<br />
50
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
51<br />
52
Bowmore<br />
Founded in 1779, owned in the early decades of the nineteenth century by three<br />
generations of the Simpson family, Bowmore is Islay’s oldest distillery, and is<br />
located off Loch Indaal, in the center of Bowmore itself, its water sourced from<br />
the Laggan River.<br />
While we are slightly hazy on the origins<br />
of the name itself, sometimes attributed<br />
to a nearby and notorious reef, or to a<br />
Lowlander corruption of Poll-mor (Great<br />
Pool), or to the Norse for Bogha Moor<br />
(sunken rock), the village of Bowmore was<br />
founded by Daniel Campbell in 1768,<br />
and lays claim to being Scotland’s first<br />
planned village. Today, as well as being<br />
home to one of the world’s most famous<br />
distilleries, it is Islay’s administrative center.<br />
Like all Islay-based distilleries, Bowmore<br />
would have begun life as a very local<br />
affair, producing single malt for the<br />
almost exclusive consumption of its island<br />
fellows. However, its purchase in 1837 by<br />
Glasgow-based William & James Mutter<br />
saw it begin to expand beyond Islay and<br />
its early reputation brought the accolade<br />
of royal custom when in 1841 Windsor<br />
Castle is recorded as having taken receipt<br />
of a cask of Bowmore.<br />
After Mutters finally sold in 1890,<br />
ownership of Bowmore would pass first<br />
through JR Holmes, then JB Sherriff<br />
& Co., and finally William Grigor &<br />
Sons, before ending up with Stanley<br />
P Morrison (1963), who with one J<br />
Howat had expressly founded Morrison<br />
Bowmore Distillers Ltd in order to make<br />
the purchase. A through-and-through<br />
whisky man, it is under Morrison that<br />
Bowmore doubled capacity, and helped<br />
restore single malt whisky as a drink in<br />
its own right. His knowledge and longsighted<br />
strategic thinking resulted in the<br />
eventual bottling of what are now some<br />
of the world’s most sought after malts.<br />
Among all this are three very different<br />
stories: During the Second World<br />
War, the temporarily decommissioned<br />
distillery hosted both the Royal and<br />
Canadian Air Forces. In 1980, the<br />
Queen made Bowmore her one and<br />
only distillery visit – ever. And in 1991,<br />
the distillery donated No.3 Warehouse<br />
for conversion into the local leisure<br />
center, agreeing to use its recycled hot<br />
water to heat the pool.<br />
In 1987, Suntory bought roughly a<br />
third share in Morrison Bowmore, and<br />
went on to acquire the rest of the<br />
company in 1994. Morrison Bowmore<br />
operates three distilleries: Bowmore,<br />
Glen Garioch and Auchentoshan.<br />
Today, Protector, Bowmore has an<br />
annual capacity of some two million<br />
liters. The present master distiller is<br />
Eddie McCaffer, while the master<br />
blender is Rachael Barrie. Its evergrowing<br />
community of fans is called<br />
the ‘Inner Core’.<br />
Left: Bowmore Distillery<br />
53<br />
54
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
55<br />
56
The Ardmore<br />
Built in 1898 in the Garioch, Eastern Highlands, by Adam Teacher & Sons, The<br />
Ardmore was never supposed to be known as a bottler of fine single malts. Rather<br />
its purpose was to serve its mighty Teacher’s Highland Blend with distinction.<br />
Situated on the Aberdeen-to-Inverness<br />
railway, with plenty of local water<br />
sources, it was perfectly placed. Powered<br />
by a steam engine, it was, at the time, a<br />
state-of-the-art facility. An old style whisky,<br />
it’s the only malt in the area to hold on to<br />
its peaty origins, and replaced its coalfired<br />
stills with steam as late as 2002.<br />
With its two stills increased to four in 1955,<br />
and then to eight in 1974, The Ardmore<br />
was always a mighty distillery. It retained<br />
its own Saladin maltings facilities right up<br />
until 1976, and remains a go to malt in the<br />
blend and independent bottling markets.<br />
However, given an annual capacity of<br />
5,400,000 litres, it was clearly always<br />
more than capable of properly entering<br />
into the world of the single malt for<br />
itself, which it did first in 1999, when<br />
it brought out an anniversary 12 Year<br />
Old and a limited edition 21 Year old,<br />
and then in 2007, when it released The<br />
Ardmore Traditional Cask, the first of<br />
its core expressions.<br />
While Adam Teacher died before<br />
its completion, The Ardmore would<br />
remain a family-owned distillery until<br />
1976, when Adam Teacher & Sons<br />
was bought by Allied Breweries. The<br />
Ardmore was acquired by Jim Beam<br />
Brands in 2005. Alistair Longwell has<br />
been responsible for guiding The Ardmore<br />
through the last decade of change.<br />
Right: The Ardmore Distillery<br />
57<br />
58
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
59<br />
60
Connemara<br />
Connemara was inspired by local distillers from the wild, rugged region of Connemara<br />
on Ireland’s Atlantic coast. During the 18th and 19th Century, often operating illegally,<br />
these remote distillers relied on nearby peat bogs as a source of fuel for drying out the<br />
malted barley. It is this tradition that Connemara carries on to this day.<br />
Connemara follows many of the unique<br />
distilling techniques like the rest of the<br />
Kilbeggan Distilling Company’s family<br />
of brands. It is double distilled in small<br />
batches and aged in American white oak<br />
ex-Bourbon barrels. The unique quality<br />
comes from the fact that all of the malted<br />
barley used to make this whiskey is dried<br />
over fires set with peat moss to give it<br />
a distinctly smoky finish. Connemara<br />
original, is a blend of 4, 6 and 8 years<br />
old single malt, taking older and younger<br />
whiskies and marrying them to make<br />
a smooth and distinct finished product.<br />
The 6 year old liquid blends the older<br />
and younger liquid together perfectly.<br />
Each barrel is selected by hand for the<br />
blending process to carefully preserve<br />
the taste of this whiskey.<br />
Connemara is distinct within Irish whiskey<br />
in that it is double distilled and peated.<br />
Irish Whiskey is primarily triple distilled<br />
and either produced as a blend or potstill<br />
whiskey. Connemara’s unique profile is<br />
balanced, slightly sweet with notes of<br />
peat and the quintessential smoothness<br />
for which Irish Whiskey is known.<br />
Connemara is produced at the Cooley<br />
distillery in County Louth. Part of the<br />
Kilbeggan Distilling Co. founded in<br />
1987, it was converted from a potato<br />
alcohol factory. Cooley Distillery was<br />
Ireland’s first new distillery in almost 100<br />
years. It was bought in 2011 by Beam<br />
Inc, which in turn became Beam Suntory<br />
in 2014.<br />
One of the most awarded whiskies in<br />
all of Ireland, it continues to be the<br />
leader of the peated revival currently<br />
taking place in Ireland. Available<br />
expressions in the <strong>US</strong> are Connemara<br />
Original, Connemara 12 Year Old and<br />
Connemara Cask Strength.<br />
Left: Connemara Distillery<br />
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Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
63<br />
64
Hakushu<br />
Built in 1973 in the foothills of Mt Kaikomagatake, Japan, Hakushu was founded<br />
on the 50th anniversary of Japanese whisky making. Once the world’s largest malt<br />
distillery, it produced a staggering 30 million liters of whisky a year, and serves as<br />
a sure sign of Japan’s mid-to-late twentieth century whisky boom.<br />
At the time, Hakushu was divided into<br />
two still houses, East and West. Today,<br />
it operates out of the East wing, which<br />
with 12 stills is an enormous facility in<br />
its own right. The West wing is used<br />
as a laboratory for experimenting with<br />
new whiskies. Water is sourced from<br />
nearby streams, and the entire distillery<br />
grows out of its forested environs, the<br />
belief being that Hakushu is more than<br />
its function – that it is a dwelling or<br />
‘soul-place’ of whisky artisans, and as<br />
such sits in perfect harmony with its<br />
natural surrounds.<br />
This very Suntory Hakushu philosophy<br />
incorporates change as much as it<br />
does continuity. The distillery has<br />
periodically changed its stills setup,<br />
most recently in 1983. It uses four types<br />
of malted barley, different yeasts, a<br />
range of differently sized and shaped<br />
stills, and ages its spirits in different<br />
type oaks, including American White,<br />
European and Japanese.<br />
An extraordinarily efficient, experimental<br />
and ever-changing facility, capacity at<br />
Hakushu is roughly three million liters,<br />
while its creative direction lies in the<br />
hands of its six-strong master blending<br />
team, headed up by Shinji Fukuyo.<br />
Right: Hakushu Distillery<br />
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Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
67<br />
68
Chapter Seven<br />
THE HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE<br />
69
The<br />
HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE<br />
Now, dear Protector, the muddy truths as to how five distilleries have come out as<br />
kings of the whisky bog. We know their stories, their places, and their people.<br />
Here be their magic, the secrets of their trade. Come, let’s dive in…<br />
How a Laphroaig gets to be a Laphroaig<br />
The key to understanding how Laphroaig gets to taste the way it does lies in the nature<br />
of its whisky-making process, its idiosyncratic traditions and spirited innovations.<br />
Meaning it:<br />
• Uses soft, peated, non-mineralized<br />
water from Loch Kilbride<br />
• Retains 15% of its own floor maltings,<br />
with a phenol spec of 40-60ppm.<br />
The rest it brings in from either Port<br />
Ellen or the mainland, with a phenol<br />
spec of 35-45ppm<br />
• Has its own kiln for drying the malted<br />
barley, at lower temperatures, which<br />
makes for even higher phenol levels<br />
• Exclusively sources its peat from<br />
Glenmachrie peat bog<br />
• Ferments for 55-99 hours<br />
• Makes its first cut at 45 minutes, the<br />
latest in the industry, which accounts<br />
for the lack of grass or green fruits<br />
in Laphroaig<br />
• Possesses seven stills of two different<br />
sizes, meaning that it’s capable of<br />
producing two distillates, which if<br />
married before laying down gives a<br />
third distillate option<br />
• Uses only first-fill ex-bourbon casks<br />
when maturing in American oak,<br />
meaning these casks have only ever<br />
had Bourbon in them<br />
• ‘Double’, ‘Triple’ or ‘Extra’ matures<br />
its spirit in a range of oak and<br />
cask types, including ex-Sherry<br />
puncheons and ex-bourbon quarter<br />
casks – all variations depending on<br />
the expression<br />
• Laphroaig matures its spirit on location<br />
at the distillery, making use of the most<br />
traditional “dunnage” (earth-floor)<br />
warehouses and allowing the sea air<br />
to penetrate the casks<br />
• Laphroaig employs 31 individuals in<br />
Islay. When turning the barley, the<br />
team operates 24/7 in three shifts<br />
• Being next to the sea, the walls of<br />
the nearest warehouses are regularly<br />
struck by waves during winter storms,<br />
and seaweed has to be removed<br />
from the roofs. We are convinced<br />
that its salty remnants have an effect<br />
on the overall taste of Laphroaig<br />
THERE BE, GOOD AND NOBLE<br />
PROTECTOR, THE SECRETS<br />
BEHIND THE LAPHROAIG HO<strong>US</strong>E<br />
TASTE, THE SMELL OF IODINE,<br />
THE PEAT SMOKE, THE SE<strong>AW</strong>EED,<br />
THE TAR AND OIL, THE SWEET<br />
NOTES, THE HEAVIER FRUITS<br />
71<br />
72
Understanding what Makes a Bowmore a Bowmore<br />
Again, the key to understanding what sets a Bowmore apart from its neighbors lies<br />
in its whisky-making process, its location and its people. Thus, Protector, it:<br />
• Sources its water from Laggan<br />
River, using a tried and tested<br />
irrigation system<br />
• Ensures that every grain of its barley<br />
is grown by 16 dedicated farms<br />
in Scotland and shipped from the<br />
mainland. Indeed, it was the first<br />
distillery to establish full traceability<br />
from the field all the way to the bottle<br />
• Continues to malt approximately<br />
20 to 25% of its barley on its<br />
own malt barn floor, believing its<br />
old age methods impart a specific<br />
Bowmore flavor to the barley. The<br />
rest is malted on the mainland by<br />
professional maltsters, Simpsons<br />
• Uses peat sourced from the Laggan<br />
Moss peat banks, with an average<br />
phenol spec of 25ppm, putting<br />
Bowmore in the heavily-peated<br />
bracket, hence the heavy smoke<br />
• Makes its first cut at 35 minutes<br />
(at 74% abv) and the second at 2<br />
hours and 20 minutes (at 61% abv),<br />
capturing both fruit and smoke<br />
• Uses mostly ex-American bourbon<br />
and Spanish sherry casks. Bourbon<br />
casks, as you know Protector, impart<br />
a characteristic vanilla flavor to the<br />
whisky, while sherry casks lend the<br />
maturing spirit a heavier body and<br />
deep amber color. Different types<br />
of cask are used with more limited<br />
edition expressions<br />
• Matures all its single malt at Bowmore.<br />
The reputation of its legendary No.1<br />
Vaults precedes it. Below sea level, it<br />
is the lowest warehouse in Scotland<br />
and very damp, making for excellent<br />
long-maturation conditions<br />
ALL OF WHICH EXPLAINS, PROTECTOR, WHILE ALSO BASED ON ISLAY,<br />
THE MALTY, SMOKY BOWMORE HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE IS QUITE DIFFERENT FROM<br />
LAPHROAIG’S, BEING MORE AROMATIC AND LESS OBVIO<strong>US</strong>LY PHENOLIC,<br />
AND <strong>US</strong>UALLY CHARACTERIZED BY A MOST HEALTHY DOLLOP OF TROPICAL<br />
FRUITS AND A STRAND OR TWO OF POUCH TOBACCO<br />
73<br />
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Elaborating on The Ardmore Taste<br />
To know what makes The Ardmore so unique, it’s vital, Protector, that we<br />
remember its original purpose: to give Teacher’s Highland Cream its smoky taste.<br />
Given that legacy, little wonder that The Ardmore house taste is synonymous with an<br />
old style whisky: it is peaty and meaty, and yet, at the same time, fruity and fragrant,<br />
possessing a burnt sweetness on the mouth, lots of spice, leather and vanillas, a long and<br />
full finish. Reasons, Protector, as follows:<br />
• Water sourced from springs in nearby<br />
Knockandy Hills<br />
• The maltings for its peated whiskies<br />
sourced from the north-east mainland<br />
maltsters, which explains its signature<br />
wood-smoke tone. The peat’s sourced<br />
at St Fergus Moss, from the Northern<br />
Peat & Moss Company. The phenol<br />
spec is 12-14ppm, so medium to<br />
heavy peated<br />
• A 53-hour fermentation regime,<br />
responsible for its fruity undertones<br />
• Though no longer direct fire, the<br />
task of giving The Ardmore distillate<br />
that same deep character with steam<br />
coils took seven months of intensive<br />
testing. The first cut is made at 35<br />
minutes, the second once the abv<br />
level has dropped to 60% abv, making<br />
for a big bodied spirit. The shell and<br />
tube condensers, Protector, are run hot<br />
to maximize copper erosion, thereby<br />
mimicking copper contact from the<br />
original coal firing at The Ardmore<br />
• The onion shape of its stills, together<br />
with its downward angled lyne arms,<br />
make for less copper contact, hence<br />
the heavier character of the distillate<br />
• Less concerned with age, the wood<br />
policy focus is all about how to use<br />
different casks to complement the<br />
distillery’s character. Thus the use<br />
of bourbon, sherry, puncheon and<br />
quarter casks, mostly sourced as<br />
either casks or staves from Jim Beam<br />
NOTE PLEASE, PROTECTOR, THAT WHILE DEFINED BY PEAT, THE<br />
ARDMORE ALSO PRODUCES AN UNPEATED WHISKY CALLED ARDLAIR<br />
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Wherefore the Uniqueness of Connemara<br />
Spearheading the peat revival in Ireland, Connemara’s unique Irish-Scot character<br />
comes directly from the merging of two interrelated traditions, be that as a result of<br />
materials used or the way the whiskey is actually made. Specifics include:<br />
• Maltings sourced from Glenesk<br />
Maltings, north-eastern mainland<br />
Scotland. The phenol spec is 15ppm,<br />
so heavily peated<br />
• Double distilled – unlike traditional Irish<br />
Whiskeys which are triple distilled and<br />
typically blends or potstill whiskeys<br />
• The wort is cloudy, making it<br />
quite malty<br />
• Fermentation time is minimum 48 hours,<br />
which though standard, remains quite<br />
short, meaning the wash retains those<br />
initial cereal notes<br />
• The middle cut is broad, beginning<br />
just 20 minutes in and finishing<br />
deep down at 59%, abv, which<br />
accounts for the breadth of flavor<br />
and character of the final spirit,<br />
possessing both light floral notes<br />
and a heavy peatiness<br />
• American white oak ex-Bourbon<br />
barrels are the weapon of choice<br />
when it comes to maturation, though<br />
casks used to mature the spirit are<br />
beginning to be reused, a policy<br />
designed to explore iterations on<br />
the flavor profile<br />
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What Makes Hakushu so Hakushu<br />
If the complexly balanced youthfulness of the green, fresh and vibrant Hakushu house<br />
taste is to be fully understood, Protector, then diversity, craft and location are the key.<br />
Meaning it:<br />
• Uses water sourced from the Ojira<br />
River. A water so pure as to be<br />
designated as ‘most precious’, an<br />
independent government-sponsored<br />
kite mark for Japan’s 100 Most<br />
Precious Waters<br />
• Sources its maltings from Scotland.<br />
Phenol specs will depend on whether<br />
the final whisky is to be light, medium<br />
or heavily peated. The range allows<br />
for the production of different types<br />
of peated malts: light, medium or heavy<br />
• Passes a clear wort on and into<br />
long fermentation times. A range of<br />
distillers and brewer’s yeasts are used,<br />
with fermentation taking place in<br />
wooden washbacks. The length and<br />
temperature of the process is designed<br />
to cultivate lactic bacteria and other<br />
microorganisms, giving rise to a fruity,<br />
creamy wash<br />
• Makes use of a variety of still sizes<br />
and shapes, some with downward<br />
angled lyne arms, some upward<br />
angled, some direct-fired, some<br />
steam heated, and has options to use<br />
shell-and-tube or worm tub when<br />
condensing. The end result, Protector,<br />
is a mightily tweaked set of distillates,<br />
some light, some full-bodied, but all<br />
possessing that same fresh, zest- like<br />
taste so characteristic of Hakushu<br />
• Uses mainly ex-Bourbon casks<br />
converted into hogsheads (230<br />
liters thought the best size cask for<br />
Hakushu’s aging conditions), and<br />
also sherry butts<br />
• Benefits from the specifics of a cool<br />
mountain climate, the temperature<br />
ensuring the potential for long<br />
maturation cycles, with less<br />
wood influence than lower altitude<br />
aging conditions<br />
• May blend several matured<br />
single distillery distillates together,<br />
depending on the desired profile<br />
AGAIN, PROTECTOR, DO NOTE, PLEASE, THAT<br />
HAK<strong>US</strong>HU ALSO MAKES UNPEATED WHISKIES<br />
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Chapter Eight<br />
ENTER THE EXPRESSIONS<br />
81
Enter<br />
THE EXPRESSIONS<br />
So, Protector, to the whiskies themselves: Remember, good friend, our A Taste of<br />
Peat (pages 39-45), which outlined how best to taste peated single malt whisky.<br />
Here below are the tasting notes for the very whiskies you will be sharing: read,<br />
absorb and most of all, Protector, enjoy.<br />
Laphroaig<br />
LAPHROAIG’S<br />
CORE RANGE<br />
• 10 Year Old<br />
• Select<br />
• Quarter Cask<br />
• 25 Year Old<br />
• 32 Year Old<br />
• Lore<br />
• Triple Wood<br />
• Cask Strength<br />
LAPHROAIG SELECT<br />
The name Laphroaig Select, was<br />
chosen by the Friends of Laphroaig,<br />
and takes this name from the special<br />
selection of American and European<br />
casks, chosen for the unique character<br />
they give during maturation.<br />
The inspiration for this global expression<br />
comes from Ian Hunter, the last family<br />
member owner of the distillery, and one<br />
of the first distillers to travel to bourbon<br />
county in the <strong>US</strong>A to identify new sources<br />
of casks that would give him greater<br />
consistency as well as new flavors.<br />
Oloroso sherry butts, straight American<br />
white oak (non-filled with Bourbon), PX<br />
seasoned hogsheads, quarter casks and<br />
finally of course first fill Bourbon Casks<br />
are all used to create Laphroaig Select.<br />
LAPHROAIG 10 YEAR OLD<br />
Best recognized of all the Islay malts –<br />
and for good reason. It has a nose and<br />
taste that deliver a unique measure of<br />
Islay peat smoke, tangy, salt-laden air<br />
and an echo of sweetness at the end. It<br />
has become the gold standard by which<br />
all other Islay malts are judged.<br />
Colour - Sparkling gold<br />
Nose - Huge smoke with<br />
a hint of sweetness<br />
Body - Full<br />
Palate - Peat smoke with<br />
salty undertones and an<br />
echo of sweetness<br />
Finish - Long, powerful, smoky<br />
Colour - A sparkling gold with<br />
layers of color<br />
Nose - Peat first, then ripe red<br />
fruits with a hint of dryness<br />
Body - Full-bodied<br />
Palate - Sweet up front then<br />
classic dry, peaty, ashy flavors<br />
followed by a rich finish<br />
Finish - Long lingering and floral<br />
with marzipan and limes at<br />
the end<br />
83<br />
84
LAPHROAIG TRIPLE WOOD<br />
An extension of the Quarter Cask<br />
expression, special for its triple maturation,<br />
which creates a unique blend of the<br />
signature peat-smoked liquid with softer<br />
notes of fruit and spices.<br />
After a double maturation in American<br />
oak barrels the liquid is transferred to<br />
smaller, 19th century-style European<br />
quarter casks to impart extra depth<br />
and fullness.<br />
This final stage allows for a slow maturation<br />
– all leading to a soft, complex and fully<br />
rounded flavor. When tasted, Triple Wood<br />
begins with a subtle sherry sweetness<br />
before offering up spiciness and nuttiness<br />
and a huge peat flavor.<br />
LAPHROAIG QUARTER CASK<br />
This expression offers an irresistible<br />
doubling of flavor, due to the double<br />
maturation in two barrels made of<br />
American oak.<br />
Still-maturing whisky from standard<br />
ex-Bourbon barrels is transferred to<br />
quarter casks and left to rest in the<br />
warehouse, just a stone’s throw from<br />
the Atlantic shore.<br />
This process represents Laphroaig<br />
breathing new life into a once-defunct<br />
tradition: the use of the smaller<br />
cask size, which ensures increased<br />
contact with the oak, creating a soft<br />
and velvety edge to complement<br />
Laphroaig’s distinctive peatiness.<br />
Colour - Bright gold<br />
Nose - Sweet raisins and creamy<br />
apricots, nutty flavors, bonfire<br />
ash smell of earthy peat<br />
Body - Powerful, yet with a<br />
creamy consistency<br />
Palate - Creamier flavors of<br />
vanilla and fruit with just a<br />
suggestion of sherry sweetness<br />
Finish - Mouth filling and<br />
extremely long, balanced by<br />
the sweet smooth caramel taste<br />
Colour - Full sparkling gold<br />
Nose - Burning embers of peat<br />
in a crofter’s fireplace, hints of<br />
coconut and banana aromas<br />
Body - Full-bodied<br />
Palate - Deep, complex and<br />
smoky yet surprises the palate<br />
with a gentle sweetness<br />
Finish - Really long, and dries<br />
appropriately with smoke<br />
and spice<br />
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86
LAPHROAIG 25 YEAR OLD<br />
LAPHRAOIG LORE<br />
Rich and deep with distinctive smoke,<br />
peat and seaside minerality, this<br />
expression is unmistakably Laphroaig.<br />
This is a result of liquid being drawn<br />
from a selection of casks including<br />
ex-Bourbon, first-fill sherry butts, smaller<br />
quarter casks and their most precious<br />
stock. This careful process captures the<br />
timeless passion and very essence of the<br />
Laphroaig Distillery.<br />
Colour - Deep mahogany<br />
Nose - Rich and smoky with<br />
seaside minerals followed by<br />
vanilla and oily unroasted<br />
chestnuts and a hint of fudge<br />
with a malty sweetness. A drop<br />
of water adds a creamy clotted<br />
cream note with fruit appearing<br />
in the form of unripe citrus in a<br />
flan glaze<br />
Body - Medium to full<br />
Palate - Richly peaty with a spicy<br />
chili bite<br />
Finish - Short dry finish with a<br />
long, sweet after taste<br />
Laphroaig 25 Year Old has been lovingly<br />
created by marrying Laphroaig matured<br />
in Oloroso sherry casks with Laphroaig<br />
matured in ex-American Bourbon barrels;<br />
both filled with newly distilled Laphroaig<br />
spirit from day one.<br />
When you join the sherried, oaky flavors<br />
from the second fill sherry casks with the<br />
creamy, smooth, sweet flavors from the<br />
bourbon barrels you create the magic<br />
that is Laphroaig 25 Year Old. Bottled<br />
at cask strength, it is a perfect fusion of<br />
two different styles of maturation flavors,<br />
made even smoother by the quarter<br />
century it has been gently maturing.<br />
Colour - Bright red gold<br />
Nose - Sherry sweetness<br />
followed by the time-honored<br />
Islay peat tang. A smooth fruit<br />
ripeness that complements the<br />
tang of salt in the background<br />
Body - Rich, round and full<br />
Palate - An initial burst of<br />
peat restrained by a sherry<br />
sweetness that develops into<br />
spicy apple fruitiness<br />
Finish - Very long and warming,<br />
leaving a distinct tang of Islay<br />
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LAPHROAIG 10 YEAR OLD CASK STRENGTH<br />
LAPHROAIG 32 YEAR OLD<br />
Matured solely in a first-fill ex-Oloroso<br />
cask, the Laphroaig 32 Year Old is<br />
a whisky that has picked up all those<br />
flavours so typical of spirit laid down<br />
in ex-Sherry casks. The dark Christmas<br />
fruits, the nuts and spice, and at the<br />
same time possesses the extraordinary<br />
delicate balance common to old,<br />
excellent whiskies. It’s an extremely<br />
rare and accomplished whisky.<br />
10 Year Cask Strength Laphroaig is<br />
bottled at natural distillery strength<br />
with all the depth of genuine taste<br />
and texture normally associated with<br />
sampling whisky at source.<br />
We mature Laphroaig in seasoned oak<br />
barrels, charred before filling to impart<br />
a slight sweet vanilla nuttiness. Original<br />
Cask Strength Laphroaig is barrierfiltered<br />
only just, to remove the small<br />
char particles present.<br />
In extremes of temperature and when<br />
you add water it may appear a little<br />
cloudy – this is the natural condition of<br />
a malt of such a peaty pungence and<br />
uncompromising purity. Adding a little<br />
water releases a rich aroma of peat<br />
smoke with some sweetness and strong<br />
hints of the sea.<br />
Emphatic, full bodied and utterly<br />
unforgettable – we like to think it’s<br />
the purists choice<br />
Colour - Deep Mahogany<br />
Nose - Reminiscent of a<br />
Christmas fruit cake, the rich,<br />
sherry sweetness and the aroma<br />
of caramelised brown sugar is<br />
predominant. A drop of water<br />
reveals notes of cinnamon<br />
spiced red apples, with just a<br />
hint of bitter dark chocolate<br />
Body - Intense and rich<br />
Palate - The dark, bitter<br />
chocolate follows through to<br />
the palate, with nutmeg and an<br />
intense spicy oakiness. Adding<br />
a touch of water allows sweeter,<br />
sherry flavours to come through,<br />
together with just a hint of salt<br />
tang and subtle peat smoke<br />
Finish - Dry, long and lingering,<br />
sherried oak finish<br />
Colour - Rich deep gold<br />
Nose - Very powerful,<br />
“medicine”, smoke, seaweed<br />
and ozone characters<br />
overlaying a sweetness<br />
Body - Full and strong<br />
Palate - A massive peated burst<br />
of flavour with hints of sweetness<br />
at the end<br />
Finish: Long and savoury<br />
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Connemara<br />
Connemara offers the whiskey connoisseur a unique opportunity to move from Scotland<br />
to Ireland and back with ease. Connemara uses 15 PPM of peat, as opposed to many<br />
Islay Scotches which are more heavily peated. It satisfies both current peated malt<br />
drinkers as well as those who may not be interested in peat just yet. Whisk(e)y drinkers<br />
who may enjoy peated single malt Scotch will be drawn in by the unique smoky quality<br />
of Connemara. Whisk(e)y drinkers who may not think that peated whiskies are to their<br />
liking will be welcomed in by the sweet floral undertones and warm finish, showing<br />
them that peat is not something to be scared of.<br />
CONNEMARA’S<br />
CORE RANGE<br />
• Connemara Original<br />
• Connemara 12<br />
• Connemara Cask Srength<br />
CONNEMARA ORIGINAL<br />
Inspired by Ireland’s ancient distilling<br />
traditions, Connemara is double distilled<br />
from peated malt in two pot stills and<br />
matured in ex-Bourbon American oak<br />
casks. Connemara combines the<br />
smoothness of an Irish whiskey with the<br />
smoky richness normally associated with<br />
many Scottish single malts. Connemara<br />
Original is a combination of 4,6 and 8<br />
year old whiskeys.<br />
Colour - Lightly Golden<br />
Nose - Mild peat, heather<br />
freshness with floral notes,<br />
honeyed sweetness and a<br />
little oak<br />
Body - Full-bodied<br />
Palate - Full and smooth with<br />
notes of malt and peat, honeyed<br />
smoke and barley sweetness<br />
Finish - Long and lingering with<br />
honey and peat smoke<br />
CONNEMARA 12<br />
A medium peated, fruity and smooth<br />
single malt whiskey from the Cooley<br />
Distillery. The 12 years maturation<br />
in American white oak ex-Bourbon<br />
casks gives the consumer the ability to<br />
taste how extra aging brings out more<br />
character from the wood and rounds off<br />
the taste of Connemara Original.<br />
Colour - Pale straw<br />
Nose - Vibrant presence of malt<br />
and peaty smokiness<br />
Body - Mellow and soft with<br />
creamy oils<br />
Palate - Smooth, mix of fruit,<br />
notably green apple and plenty<br />
of warm peat<br />
Finish - Strong spice bite in<br />
harmony with creamy peatiness<br />
CONNEMARA CASK STRENGTH<br />
A medium peated, fruity and smooth<br />
single malt whiskey from the Cooley<br />
Distillery. The 12 years maturation<br />
in American white oak ex-Bourbon<br />
casks gives the consumer the ability to<br />
taste how extra aging brings out more<br />
character from the wood and rounds off<br />
the taste of Connemara Original.<br />
Colour - Pale golden yellow<br />
Nose - Strong and concentrated<br />
smoky peatiness<br />
Body - Mellow and soft with<br />
creamy oils<br />
Palate - Strong aggressive start<br />
with an enormous peat surge<br />
that combines with complex<br />
combination of fruit, peppers<br />
and chocolate<br />
Finish - Astonishingly long<br />
and glorious finish with peat<br />
clinging to every corner of<br />
your mouths<br />
91<br />
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Bowmore<br />
BOWMORE’S<br />
CORE RANGE<br />
• Small Batch<br />
• 15 Years Old<br />
• 12 Years Old<br />
• 25 Year Old<br />
• 18 Years Old<br />
BOWMORE SMALL BATCH<br />
Exclusively matured in first and second<br />
fill ex-Bourbon casks, then blissfully<br />
married together, Small Batch exhibits<br />
the best qualities of both. First-fill bourbon<br />
offers delicious vanilla sweetness,<br />
subtle spices and bourbon oak smoke<br />
to complement Bowmore’s gentle<br />
peaty smokiness, while the second-fill<br />
cask enhances Bowmore’s fresh fruity<br />
complexity and showcases its trademark<br />
honey and creamy malt character.<br />
Colour - Warm gold<br />
Nose - Vanilla fudge, sea air<br />
and peat smoke, balanced<br />
beautifully by honeycomb and<br />
cinnamon spice<br />
Palate - Mouth-watering citrus,<br />
gentle saltiness and vanilla with<br />
flakes of coconut<br />
Finish - Wispy smoke, Bourbon<br />
vanilla and lime<br />
BOWMORE 15 YEARS OLD<br />
Matured in an inspired combination of<br />
both bourbon and sherry casks, it’s the<br />
final three years spent in Oloroso sherry<br />
casks that gives Bowmore 15 Years Old<br />
‘Darkest’, one of the most beautifully<br />
balanced Bowmores, the rich, deep<br />
colour reflected in its name, and its<br />
warming finish.<br />
Colour - Treacle dark amber<br />
Nose - Delicious dark<br />
chocolate, sun-dried fruits and<br />
a tell-tale wisp of Islay smoke<br />
Palate - Wonderful cedar<br />
wood and rich treacle toffee<br />
Finish - The robust and<br />
complex finish with a hint of<br />
sherry tan<br />
BOWMORE 12 YEARS OLD<br />
Complex yet perfectly balanced, our 12<br />
Years Old reflects the raw essence of<br />
Bowmore - thrashing waves, windswept<br />
landscapes and generations of tradition.<br />
Bowmore 12 Years Old has received<br />
much critical acclaim; the late, great<br />
whisky writer Michael Jackson proclaimed<br />
it “remarkably long and complex”. We<br />
like to think of it as vanilla ice cream at<br />
a beach bonfire.<br />
Colour - Warm amber<br />
Nose - Subtle lemon and honey,<br />
balanced beautifully by Bowmore’s<br />
trademark peaty smokiness<br />
Palate - Sweet and delicious<br />
heather honey and gentle<br />
peat smoke<br />
Finish - Long and mellow<br />
93<br />
94
BOWMORE 18 YEARS OLD<br />
Cosseted away in the finest, hand-selected<br />
oak casks and allowed to mature at its<br />
own sedate pace, this is one of the<br />
most remarkable, perfectly balanced<br />
malts of its kind. One of our rarest most<br />
exceptional bottlings, the stocks of<br />
Bowmore 18 Years Old may be limited<br />
but there’s no end to its enjoyment.<br />
BOWMORE 25 YEARS OLD<br />
A whisky to be savoured slowly, every<br />
delicious drop of this exquisitely balanced<br />
malt has been matured for a quarter of<br />
a century in North American bourbon<br />
and Spanish sherry casks. Exceptional<br />
even by Bowmore’s standards, our highly<br />
acclaimed Bowmore 25 Years Old<br />
exhibits the finest qualities of each.<br />
Colour - Mellow mahogany<br />
Nose - Classic Bowmore<br />
smokiness, perfectly tempered<br />
with creamy caramel, chocolate<br />
and ripe fruit aromas<br />
Palate - Beautiful soft fruit and<br />
chocolate balanced with a light<br />
smokiness - incredibly complex<br />
Finish - The long and<br />
wonderfully balanced finish<br />
Colour - Deep, rich mahogany<br />
Nose - Intense sherry and<br />
stewed fruits, with a trace of<br />
Bowmore smokiness<br />
Palate - Delicious toffee and<br />
hazelnut, woven together with<br />
just a hint of sweet peat smoke<br />
Finish - Mellow, gentle and<br />
incredibly complex<br />
95<br />
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The Ardmore<br />
THE ARDMORE’S CORE RANGE<br />
• The Ardmore Tradition • The Ardmore Triple Wood<br />
• The Ardmore Legacy • The Ardmore Port Wood Finish<br />
THE ARDMORE TRADITION<br />
The Ardmore Tradition is a taste of<br />
history. Journeying back to a time<br />
when most Highland distilleries dried<br />
their barley with the sweet smoke of<br />
local Highland peat. To a time before<br />
‘chill filtering’ was invented to ‘clarify’<br />
the spirit. To a time when maturation<br />
length and style depended on the skill<br />
of the master blender rather than age<br />
or barrel type. Double matured in oak<br />
barrels then smaller quarter casks,<br />
The Ardmore Tradition is a full and<br />
rich liquid, with unique Highland peat<br />
smoke flavors.<br />
THE ARDMORE LEGACY<br />
The Ardmore Legacy celebrates the<br />
distillery’s unique location on the fringes<br />
of the Highlands, offering a lightly<br />
peated liquid that is sweet and uplifting. It<br />
encapsulates the essence of the Highland<br />
landscape and everything it provides –<br />
pure air, water grain and peat.<br />
With a balance of peated and un-peated<br />
malt, the unique and gentle flavor of The<br />
Ardmore Legacy will not only delight<br />
experienced peated malt drinkers but<br />
inspire newcomers to experience and<br />
love this whisky.<br />
Colour - Light golden<br />
Nose - Light golden<br />
Palate - Creamy vanilla spice<br />
gives way to more overt smoky<br />
charcoal notes, especially<br />
with the addition of water.<br />
Smoke doesn’t dominate and is<br />
balanced by the sweet honey<br />
and spice flavors<br />
Finish - Full-bodied, silky<br />
mouth feel with a (trademark<br />
The Ardmore) dry tangy and<br />
lingering after taste, coupled<br />
with delicious spice notes<br />
Colour - Burnished gold<br />
Nose - At bottle strength (46%),<br />
the influence of both maturations<br />
complement each other producing<br />
a full-bodied smooth aroma<br />
The maturity comes from the<br />
American barrels and the spicy,<br />
creamy nose from the old style<br />
smaller casks<br />
The rich softness linked with<br />
the smooth, slightly dry aroma<br />
is combined with just enough<br />
earthy peat smoke to avoid being<br />
overpowering<br />
Palate - The full rich flavors burst<br />
and fill the mouth with a creamy<br />
peat tang and a touch of vanilla’s<br />
soft gentleness<br />
If a touch of water is added, then<br />
the flavours increase with the<br />
addition of a sweet ripe fruit start<br />
followed by a tang of peat<br />
Finish - Full, succulent and<br />
quite long<br />
NOT AVAILABLE<br />
IN THE <strong>US</strong>A<br />
97<br />
98
THE ARDMORE TRIPLE WOOD<br />
The Ardmore Triple Wood is triple<br />
matured in American oak barrels, quarter<br />
casks and puncheons. 100% peated and<br />
at 46% ABV, Triple Wood is light and<br />
sweet, with the trademark Highland peat<br />
smoke notes. The original single malt<br />
from The Ardmore distillery, Triple Wood<br />
is a complex and rewarding Highland<br />
malt that continues to be awarded year<br />
after year.<br />
THE ARDMORE PORTWOOD FINISH<br />
Double cask matured in American white<br />
oak bourbon barrels and European half<br />
port pipes, resulting in a liquid that is<br />
light and sweet with a balance of fruity,<br />
smoky notes. Non-chill filtered and<br />
aged for 12 years, this extraordinary<br />
ruby gold single malt has been made<br />
using the same traditional distilling<br />
methods for 100 years.<br />
Colour - Golden straw, natural<br />
honey (at Cask Strength)<br />
Nose - Biscuit-y cereal notes and<br />
the scent of banana underlie<br />
the initial nose of ginger, burnt<br />
sugar, cherries and honey. A<br />
drop of water intensifies the<br />
ginger snap biscuit notes with<br />
a hint of cinnamon, and soft<br />
highland peat smoke<br />
Palate - Light caramelized<br />
sugar, toasted barley, and<br />
warming, light peat smoke<br />
are followed by sweet vanilla<br />
custard. Water releases notes<br />
of pink peppercorn, and dried<br />
fruit flavors (raisin and candied<br />
orange peel)<br />
Finish - Light with soft peat<br />
smoke, lingering pepper and<br />
toasted almonds with a wellbalanced<br />
dry mouth feel<br />
Colour - Ruby gold<br />
Nose - Initial nose<br />
of strawberries and summer<br />
fruits with a hint of pepper.<br />
Notes of burnt orange and<br />
cinnamon spice underlie. With<br />
water, the rich fruit aromas<br />
of red apple and cranberry<br />
intensify, accompanied by<br />
sweet honey and subtle spiced<br />
wood notes<br />
Palate - Sweet red apple and<br />
honey with the subtlest hint of<br />
charcoal smoke<br />
Finish - Initially smooth with<br />
a long, lingering finish<br />
culminating in the trademark<br />
The Ardmore dryness<br />
NOT AVAILABLE<br />
IN THE <strong>US</strong>A<br />
NOT AVAILABLE<br />
IN THE <strong>US</strong>A<br />
99<br />
100
Hakushu<br />
HAK<strong>US</strong>HU’S CORE RANGE<br />
• Hakushu 12 Years Old<br />
• Hakushu 18 Year Old<br />
HAK<strong>US</strong>HU 12 YEARS OLD<br />
Green with herbal notes.<br />
HAK<strong>US</strong>HU 18 YEARS OLD<br />
Fresh, deep aroma from long maturation.<br />
Complex and rich sweetness with a<br />
pleasant woodsy aroma.<br />
Colour - Champagne gold<br />
Nose - Basil, pine needle,<br />
green apple<br />
Palate - Sweet pear, mint, kiwi<br />
Finish - Green tea, subtle smoke<br />
Colour - Deep gold<br />
Nose - Ripe pear, dried mint,<br />
oregano, hint of smoke<br />
Palate - Jasmine, mango,<br />
quince, menthol<br />
Finish - Long, pleasantly<br />
smoked, hint of bitterness<br />
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Maya Rubalcaba<br />
SCOTCH & JAPANESE WHISKY<br />
SR. BRAND MANAGER - <strong>US</strong><br />
Simon Brooking<br />
MASTER AMBASSADOR<br />
maya.rubalcaba@beamsuntory.com<br />
847-444-7131<br />
simon.brooking@beamsuntory.com<br />
917-721-6073<br />
Kelly Georgetti<br />
WORLD WHISKIES & LUXURY<br />
LIFESTYLE BRANDS - DIRECTOR,<br />
COMMERCIAL MARKETING<br />
Caitlin Rannells<br />
SCOTCH & JAPANESE WHISKY -<br />
COMMERCIAL MARKETING MANAGER<br />
Kelly.Georgetti@beamsuntory.com<br />
847-612-6706<br />
Caitlin.Rannells@beamsuntory.com<br />
847.444.7580<br />
Gail Hansche<br />
SR. MANAGER, DIGITAL STRATEGY<br />
Natalie Salum<br />
SOCIAL CONTENT SPECIALIST<br />
Gail.Hansche@beamsuntory.com<br />
847-444-7516<br />
Natalie.Salim@beamsuntory.com<br />
847-444-7732<br />
Erin Jervis<br />
SR. PUBLIC RELATIONS MANAGER<br />
Erin.Jevis@beamsuntory.com<br />
847.444.7795
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
104<br />
105
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
106<br />
107
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
Your<br />
NOTES<br />
108<br />
109
Appendix
Master ambassador market visits: how to win<br />
One of the most effective sales tools available to Beam in the field is a market visit<br />
from our Master Ambassadors. When requesting Adam Harris, Dan Tullio, Simon<br />
Brooking or Bobby Gleason, a lot happens behind the scenes before the visit can be<br />
confirmed. Not only are you requesting time and effort but you are also requesting<br />
the commitment of valuable budget dollars to visit your market. The question then<br />
begs asking, “How can I best utilize a market visit to make it worth the investment of<br />
resources for everyone involved”?<br />
First of all, a one-off event request is a big red flag. Flying in to conduct a small<br />
sized consumer dinner, or to only present at one distributor meeting is not the best use<br />
of our Ambassador’s skill set - not to mention budgetary dollars. Many times the same<br />
end can be accomplished by an experienced or Gold Accredited Beam team<br />
member from the local marketplace.<br />
IN ORDER TO PLAN OUT A<br />
SUCCESSFUL AND IMPACTFUL<br />
AMBASSADOR VISIT LET’S<br />
LOOK AT SOME OF THEIR<br />
BASIC KPIS<br />
• Cases sold in top accounts<br />
both on & off<br />
• New points of distribution in<br />
top accounts both on & off<br />
• New menu placements<br />
• Permanent cocktail menus<br />
• Whisk(e)y lists<br />
• By the glass lists<br />
• Staff trainings in top<br />
accounts both on & off<br />
• Consumer and trade<br />
impressions made<br />
• Features in local media outlets<br />
Knowing this, it is very easy to activate<br />
these in a way that will ladder up to<br />
the goals in your market, region and<br />
division. When you recap the visit,<br />
these are the goals that need to be<br />
quantified. A recap is mandatory and<br />
should be completed within two weeks<br />
of your visit.<br />
So, let’s say you do get a request from<br />
a top account or organization asking<br />
for a Master Ambassador to present on<br />
a particular category at a function. First<br />
ask, “Do we have enough lead time to<br />
build, promote and execute an effective<br />
program” and next, “can we use the<br />
opportunity to leverage new business in<br />
distribution or volume”? If the answers<br />
are yes & yes then reference the Master<br />
Ambassador Activity & Travel Calendar<br />
to check for availability.<br />
Once you are fully aware of the KPIs listed above and have secured the dates on<br />
the calendar, you and the visiting Master Ambassador can work together to activate<br />
toward local initiatives over a two to three day period and really make a difference<br />
together. Examples of proven, effective activities are:<br />
Distributor relations<br />
• Divisional trainings<br />
• Presenting at a GSM when possible<br />
• Meet and greet lunches or happy hours<br />
Key Off premise relations<br />
• Staff trainings<br />
• Entire store staffs<br />
• Key regional management<br />
• Consumer classes and tastings<br />
• Bottle signings when applicable<br />
• Conduct tasting to help select a<br />
Single Barrel when applicable<br />
Key On premise relations<br />
• Staff trainings<br />
• Top whisk(e)y accounts in market<br />
• Top cocktail accounts in market<br />
Conduct tasting to help select a Single<br />
Barrel when applicable<br />
Key Trade relations<br />
• <strong>US</strong>BG presentations<br />
• Classroom setting<br />
• Meet and greet events<br />
Lunches, happy hours, dinners<br />
Top whisk(e)y and cocktail accounts<br />
in market<br />
• Owners<br />
• Beverage directors<br />
• Head bartenders and influencers<br />
Large trade events in market<br />
Large format trade shows (i.e. Whisk(e)y<br />
Fests, cocktail weeks)<br />
Key Consumer relations<br />
• Tastings<br />
• Classroom settings<br />
• On & off premise<br />
• Lunches, happy hours, dinners<br />
• Hosted in top whisk(e)y and/or<br />
cocktail accounts<br />
• Large format trade shows (i.e.<br />
Whisk(e)y Fests, cocktail weeks)<br />
• Large community events<br />
• Large charity events<br />
• Whisk(e)y Clubs – Friends of Laphroaig<br />
Key Media opportunities<br />
• Promote relevant event or endorse<br />
new product launch<br />
• Local print/digital<br />
• Local radio<br />
• Local TV<br />
• Social media<br />
With enough advance notice, due<br />
diligence and effective communication,<br />
working with our Master Ambassadors<br />
should be fun, educational and<br />
beneficial. Reviewing your local needs<br />
and collaborating together on goals and<br />
opportunities will help maximize your<br />
visit to offer the best possible experience<br />
for you, your customers and our business<br />
together at Beam.<br />
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113
Ambassador biography<br />
Event Checklist<br />
MASTER AMBASSADOR<br />
SIMON’S STORY<br />
“World peace thro’ whisky, one dram at a time.”<br />
PLANNING YOUR EVENT<br />
All event details should be confirmed 4–6 weeks from the actual event date. Advance<br />
notice is very important; it allows the team time to maximize public relations efforts<br />
and brand specific opportunities.<br />
Born in Edinburgh, Scotland, and a member of the Robertson Clan, Simon Brooking<br />
traces his roots back to the 13th century and the Celtic Earls of Atholl. A well-known<br />
expert on Scotch whisky, Simon has worked for many of the leading Scotch distilleries,<br />
learning the art and science of distilling from the world’s foremost master distillers<br />
and blenders.<br />
Since 1996, Simon has led thousands of Scotch whisky tastings for consumers, bartenders<br />
and social organizations. Both informative and entertaining, his presentations have made<br />
him an in-demand speaker and spokesperson.<br />
Simon’s love of Scotland’s Highlands and Islands has paved the way to his present position<br />
as Beam Suntory’s Master Ambassador for Laphroaig ® and The Ardmore ® Single Malt<br />
Scotch Whiskies.<br />
• Event title<br />
• Date<br />
• Time<br />
• Location<br />
• Cost (if any)<br />
EVENT DETAILS INCLUDE:<br />
• RSVP contact (if required)<br />
• Maximum number who<br />
can attend<br />
• Expressions being<br />
sampled/offered<br />
MAXIMIZING SIMON’S VISITS IN MARKET<br />
Leveraging Master Ambassador Simon Brooking to local media will not only help create<br />
added visibility for the brands, but will also help stimulate trial among key influencers.<br />
To maximize media opportunities for Simon, be sure to allow enough time for reporters to<br />
clear their schedules. In general, phone and e-mail media relations should take place at<br />
least two weeks in advance, allowing ample time for pre-publicity as well as one-on-one<br />
interviews for Simon while in market.<br />
Media contacts should include spirits, lifestyle and food/ beverage reporters for print<br />
and broadcast and online media and bloggers.<br />
The PR team will notify you at least two to three weeks in advance of the visit to<br />
review media plans and discuss local contacts you may have. Our PR team is highly<br />
involved with Laphroaig, particularly with PoP markets. It is important you share<br />
your calendar with the team so, if possible, interviews can be arranged to support<br />
your activities.<br />
Also, be sure to confirm the event on Simon Brooking’s schedule with the activation center.<br />
Upon confirmation of all event details, inform the brand and activation teams of the<br />
event. From there, the brand team will work with the creative agency to create e-mail<br />
copy and deploy the e-mail to mailing lists (or selected FoL for Laphroaig specific events).<br />
• Event invitations will be deployed two weeks out from the event date, and absolutely<br />
no later than one week out if urgent.<br />
• If RSVP is required, e-mails must be deployed at least two weeks out<br />
• RSVP list will be managed using one of the predetermined RSVP e-mail accounts or<br />
by the local account. Do NOT use a Beam Suntory e-mail address as an RSVP<br />
Media materials are available upon request.<br />
114<br />
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EVENT PLANNING TIMELINE<br />
with a drink of Hakushu ®<br />
• Remind your guests to spit out after<br />
Checked? TASK: PRE EVENT<br />
Stage Week leading up to event: 6 5 4 3 2 1<br />
Live<br />
Event<br />
Printed and posted legal wavers for usage of photos on digital media<br />
Share confirmed event<br />
1 details with brand and<br />
activation teams<br />
POS<br />
2<br />
Confirm event with the<br />
Glassware (snifters, small wine glasses or other bulb-shaped<br />
activation centre<br />
glassware); Covers for glasses<br />
Tasting equipment: spit cup, cocktail napkin, water glass, tasting<br />
3<br />
Event invitations sent<br />
mat, pitcher for water (or bottles), unflavoured crackers notepad<br />
(requiring RSVP)<br />
and pen<br />
Event invitations sent<br />
*<br />
Checked sampling regulations (vary by state) - Consult your<br />
4 (general) *sent 1 week<br />
before if urgent<br />
Industry Affairs representative for state-specific guidelines<br />
Assure all guests/participants are 21 years of age or older<br />
GLASSWARE, SETUP & TASTING AT TASTING EVENTS<br />
• Use snifters, small wine glasses or<br />
Branded merchandise for attendees<br />
other bulb-shaped glassware that<br />
REMEMBER:<br />
concentrate the aromas<br />
TASK: POST EVENT<br />
• Swirling the glass before nosing will<br />
coat the rim, where the aromas will be<br />
most easily detected<br />
• Sampling regulations vary by<br />
state. Consult your Industry<br />
Twitter and Facebook attendees posts promoted<br />
• Use covers on glasses to keep the aromas<br />
Affairs representative form<br />
state-specific guidelines<br />
from escaping during your presentation<br />
• Assure all guests/participants<br />
Completee Event Recap presentation (within two weeks of your visit)<br />
• Provide a spit cup, cocktail napkin, water<br />
are 21 years of age or older<br />
glass, tasting mat, notepad and pen for<br />
every guest<br />
• Provide one pitcher of water for every<br />
two guests or one bottle of water for<br />
each guest<br />
• Provide unflavored crackers to help<br />
cleanse the pallet between samplings<br />
RESPONSIBLE TASTING<br />
• Be sure to end the tasting with<br />
a traditional toast!: Scottish<br />
and Irish ‘sláinte’ (pronounced<br />
“slange”) with a dram of<br />
Laphroaig ® , Bowmore ® , The<br />
Ardmore or Connemara ®<br />
• Japanese “kanpai”<br />
(pronounced “gahn-pie”)<br />
each taste<br />
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Example events<br />
Post-event reporting<br />
Here are just a few Laphroaig events that were successful. Feel free to be creative – we’re<br />
always looking for new events!<br />
After each event, you will fill out a pdf form about the event with pictures.<br />
• Laphroaig ® dinner, with each course prepared with one of<br />
the Laphroaig expressions<br />
• Laphroaig ® and chocolate pairings<br />
• Curling events<br />
• Scottish holiday events:<br />
• Bobby Burns Night: January 25<br />
• Tartan Day: April 6<br />
• St. Andrew’s Day: November 30<br />
• Other events:<br />
• Fishing trip / Laphroaig smoking in Seattle<br />
• Bridge walk and tasting in San Francisco<br />
• Culinary shows featuring Laphroaig and Scotch tasting<br />
• Highland Games in New Hampshire<br />
• Kilt Walk in Seattle<br />
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Post-event reporting<br />
Protectors of the Peat Objectives<br />
At least 4 weeks before an event, you should submit a request for your email<br />
invitation/promotion. Once form is complete, please submit by email to the<br />
contacts listed on the form.<br />
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121