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<strong>Handbook</strong><br />

2016


Table of<br />

CONTENTS<br />

5<br />

7<br />

PROTECTORS OF THE PEAT<br />

The Peat Elite<br />

Ceremony Of Peaty Commencement<br />

55<br />

57<br />

62<br />

CHAPTER 6 - A BRIEF<br />

HISTORY OF FIVE DISTILLERIES<br />

Laphroaig<br />

Bowmore<br />

9<br />

CHAPTER 1 - WAYS OF THE MALT<br />

65<br />

The Ardmore<br />

11<br />

12<br />

The Short Story Of Malt Whisky<br />

The Rule Book<br />

70<br />

73<br />

Connemara<br />

Hakushu<br />

15<br />

Grain To Glass<br />

78<br />

CHAPTER 7 - THE HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE<br />

18<br />

CHAPTER 2 - LET FLAVOR FLOW<br />

81<br />

How A Laphroaig Gets To Be<br />

A Laphroaig<br />

21<br />

22<br />

24<br />

25<br />

26<br />

Mark Of The Distillery<br />

In The Name Of Oak<br />

Manipulating The Wood<br />

Where Angels Love To Thread<br />

And Other Watery Matters<br />

Character Of Place<br />

83<br />

85<br />

87<br />

89<br />

Understanding What Makes<br />

A Bowmore A Bowmore<br />

Elaborating On The Ardmore Taste<br />

Wherefore The Uniqueness<br />

Of Connemara<br />

What Makes Hakushu So Hakushu<br />

32<br />

CHAPTER 3 - MUD, GLORIO<strong>US</strong> MUD<br />

91<br />

CHAPTER 8 - ENTER THE EXPRESSIONS<br />

34<br />

35<br />

36<br />

39<br />

A Brief Note on Peat<br />

Making The Peat Reek<br />

Tailoring The Peat<br />

CHAPTER 4 - A TASTE OF PEAT<br />

93<br />

101<br />

103<br />

107<br />

111<br />

Laphroaig<br />

Connemara<br />

Bowmore<br />

The Ardmore<br />

Hakushu<br />

43<br />

The Portfolio Distilled<br />

113<br />

CONTACT<br />

46<br />

48<br />

CHAPTER 5 - COUNTRIES OF PEAT<br />

Scotland<br />

114<br />

YOUR NOTES<br />

53<br />

Japan & Ireland<br />

121<br />

APPENDIX<br />

3.


The<br />

PEAT ELITE<br />

We welcome the 2016 fraternity<br />

of the Protectors of the Peat.<br />

It is our honor to confirm that you are among the<br />

noble, elite, hand-selected few to represent and<br />

serve an unprecedented collection of peated<br />

malts. You are now part of Beam Suntory’s<br />

illustrious history, a boggy timeline stretching<br />

back through a mellenia.


Ceremony of<br />

PEATY COMMENCEMENT<br />

The Law of the Protectors of the Peat is that we talk about peat. We talk about peat<br />

a lot. We talk about peat to consumers, to customers, and to those both within and<br />

outside our esteemed organization. If, Protector, you are in full agreement, then we<br />

ask that you swear your allegiance to this, our one and only law:<br />

As a Protector, I am a bastion of peated<br />

malts and swear to uphold all that is<br />

good and true in smoky whisky. With<br />

great peat comes great responsibility.<br />

I will act with steadfast strength and<br />

loyalty as a brand leader, building<br />

awareness for each and every malt,<br />

and spreading my knowledge and<br />

passion to everyone I meet. I will share<br />

my enthusiasm with consumers, find<br />

a shared glory in the beautiful bog,<br />

and engage them through tastings<br />

and seminars.<br />

All this, I swear, will be done responsibly,<br />

with confidence and gusto, and always,<br />

I do solemnly promise, one dram at<br />

a time.<br />

6.


Chapter One<br />

WAYS OF THE MALT<br />

7


Ways of<br />

THE MALT<br />

A whisky is defined as a spirit made from grain that has been mixed with water,<br />

then mashed and fermented to make what is called a distiller’s beer, after which it<br />

is then distilled at less than 94.5 proof and aged in wood.<br />

THERE ARE FOUR<br />

RECOGNIZED STYLES<br />

OF WHISKY<br />

• Malt<br />

• Grain<br />

• Bourbon<br />

• Irish Pot Still<br />

The Short Story of Malt Whisky<br />

The practice of distillation can be traced<br />

as far back as ancient Egypt. It is an art<br />

that fascinated great Persian alchemists,<br />

who set down in various scholarly works<br />

their hunts for the so-called water of life,<br />

some of which were translated into Latin<br />

during the 12th century.<br />

With growing knowledge of how to<br />

make a spirit from beer, the secrets of<br />

distillation are thought to have been<br />

brought to Ireland by well-traveled<br />

Irish monks. The resultant distillate was<br />

used as a medicine and a restorative,<br />

drunk either straight from the still, or<br />

flavored with botanicals during or<br />

after distillation.<br />

There is evidence of malt whisky<br />

consumption in Ireland from the 1100s<br />

onward, then a non-neutral white spirit,<br />

essentially a kind of gin, also known<br />

variously as aqua vitae, uisege breathayd<br />

and uisge beatha. If Chaucer, the English<br />

author, is to be believed, malt whisky<br />

was being made in England during<br />

the 13th century. Famously, however,<br />

the earliest written evidence for the<br />

making of whisky comes in 1494 from<br />

Scotland, where the king’s exchequer<br />

records a certain Friar John Cor as<br />

having bought “eight bolls of malt to<br />

make aqua vitae.”<br />

The distillate was consumed unaged until<br />

around the late 1700s, and the discovery<br />

that its taste improves remarkably when<br />

it is stored in oak casks introduced the<br />

idea of maturation. This practice only<br />

really took root with the Excise Act in<br />

1823, which reduced the duty paid,<br />

paving the way for exponential growth<br />

of the number of legitimate distilleries in<br />

Ireland and Scotland. Aging came first, a<br />

prerequisite for the good stuff, and then<br />

the law.<br />

ANCIENT EGYPT 1100s 1494 1700s<br />

Timeline of Distillation<br />

The Rule Book<br />

Today, for a whisky to be considered a<br />

malt whisky, it must be made primarily<br />

with malted grain. Traditionally and<br />

usually, and certainly in Scotland,<br />

where it is the law, that grain is barley,<br />

especially valued for its enzymes that<br />

convert starch to sugar (they are known<br />

as amylase), which are activated<br />

during malting.<br />

Single malt whisky is produced in<br />

batches using copper pot stills. This<br />

method is mandatory in Scotland,<br />

and followed as a matter of tradition<br />

in Ireland and Japan, where it was<br />

adopted at the turn of the 20th century.<br />

In Scotland and Ireland, the law<br />

stipulates that the distillate must be<br />

aged for a minimum of three years<br />

- specifically, in “oak” in Scotland<br />

and in “wood” in Ireland. While<br />

largely unregulated, Japan’s makers<br />

traditionally mature their whisky in oak.<br />

Copper stills at The Ardmore Distillery<br />

While we tend to think of single malt as<br />

the predominant type when speaking<br />

of malt whiskies, the blended malt is<br />

a designated whisky type, and malt<br />

whiskies make up a significant portion<br />

of Blended Scotch, by far Scotland’s<br />

most common whisky type.<br />

OFFICIALLY, IN SCOTLAND:<br />

• A Single Malt is made from<br />

a mash of 100% barley in a<br />

single distillery<br />

• A Blended Malt is a blend of<br />

two or more malts sourced<br />

from multiple distilleries<br />

• A Blended Scotch is a blend<br />

of one or more grain whiskies<br />

with one or more malts<br />

9<br />

10


Though not similarly regulated, Japan and Ireland possess similar whisky styles and<br />

types with certain differences.<br />

THEY ARE:<br />

• In both countries,<br />

blends generally<br />

consist of whiskies<br />

made in a single<br />

distillery<br />

• In Japan, a malt<br />

whisky can be<br />

made in either a<br />

pot or column still<br />

• In Ireland, a blend<br />

is usually a mix of<br />

grain and Irish pot<br />

still whisky<br />

The Ardmore Distillery Washbacks<br />

THE RULES TO MAKING MALT WHISKY<br />

(Traditionally)<br />

• Must be made with<br />

malted grain<br />

• The grain used is<br />

normally barley<br />

• Must be made with the<br />

use of copper stills<br />

• Must be made in batches<br />

Hakushu Distillery River in Autumn<br />

Finally, it’s worth remembering that malted barley constitutes 30 to 70 percent<br />

of the mash bill for Irish pot still whiskies, and it remains an essential catalytic<br />

component in the mash bill for the majority of the world’s whiskies.<br />

11<br />

12


Grain to Glass<br />

With God as our witness, Protector, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise, the<br />

making of any single-malt whisky follows roughly the same process, regardless of<br />

country, region or individual distillery.<br />

FERMENTATION<br />

TIMES FOR EACH OF<br />

OUR DISTILLERIES,<br />

PROTECTOR, ARE:<br />

• The Ardmore<br />

53 hours<br />

• Connemara<br />

Minimum 48 hours<br />

• Laphroaig<br />

Minimum 55 hours<br />

• Bowmore*<br />

48 - 100 hours<br />

• First, the barley is malted, meaning<br />

that it is steeped several times in<br />

water, for two to three days, then<br />

allowed to germinate for five to<br />

nine days, traditionally on malting<br />

floors but now more than likely in a<br />

malting drum<br />

• Next, germination is arrested by drying<br />

the sprouting barley with hot air. In<br />

this process, known as kilning, the fuel<br />

usually used is oil, gas or peat<br />

• At around 8-9 percent ABV, the<br />

resultant distiller’s beer, or wash,<br />

is usually distilled twice, first in a<br />

wash still and then in a low wines<br />

or spirits still. The first distillate (low<br />

wines) comes off the wash still at<br />

around 23 percent ABV. The second<br />

distillation sees it separated, or cut,<br />

into three parts: head, (or foreshots),<br />

middle, and tails (or feints)<br />

• The foreshots and feints are recycled<br />

into the next batch wash, while the<br />

middle cut is taken off the stills as<br />

new make and is usually diluted down<br />

to 62.5–63.5 percent ABV before<br />

being barreled and left to mature<br />

• Maturation takes place in either<br />

dunnage or rack/pallet warehouses.<br />

Casks are generally made of either<br />

used American white oak or European<br />

oak, and usually sourced from the<br />

bourbon or sherry industries<br />

• The malted barley is then milled into<br />

a grist that is then mixed, or mashed,<br />

with water in a vessel known as a<br />

mash tun. The increasingly hot water<br />

dissolves the sugar, resulting in sugared<br />

waters, or wort, which is pumped into<br />

fermentation vats, or washbacks<br />

• Lasting between 48 and 120 hours,<br />

fermentation is simply the process<br />

that sees a distiller’s yeast added,<br />

or pitched, to the wort, thereby<br />

acting as the catalyst for converting<br />

the sugar to alcohol. It’s a twopart<br />

process by which oxygen is<br />

aerobically converted by the yeast<br />

into carbon dioxide, after which<br />

it anaerobically lives off the sugar<br />

before eventually dying off. Ethyl<br />

alcohol is the main by-product<br />

Once deemed mature, different casks and batches of casks are blended as a matter<br />

of brand priority, the aim being to ensure that each new expression possesses<br />

exactly the same profile as its predecessor. The whisky is then bottled and labeled,<br />

usually off-site.<br />

*depending on type of whisky being made<br />

*depending on time in the week<br />

13<br />

14


Chapter Two<br />

LET FLAVOR FLOW<br />

15


Let<br />

FLAVOR FLOW<br />

Remember, Protector, it is your solemn duty to lay the ground for demonstrating how<br />

our peated single malts are indeed the most distinctively flavorsome whiskies known<br />

to humanity. In order to do so, and before making way for the wonders of peat, it’s<br />

important that we share what it is that makes fine malt whisky so damn tasty.<br />

Many factors combine to make malt whiskies from different countries and regions<br />

unique. Different distilleries, even when in close proximity, can and do produce<br />

very different spirits.<br />

It is generally accepted that a given single malt whisky owes its distinctive character<br />

to the distillery that gave birth to it, to the influence of local environmental factors in<br />

which it was matured, and to the types of wood(s) and cask(s) used for its maturation.<br />

Mark of the Distillery<br />

Malting the barley softens it, brings out the sugars, and gives it a much more<br />

obvious baked grain (biscuit) taste.<br />

Depending on choices made during the mash, such as the temperature of the water,<br />

the resultant wort is either cloudy or clear. Generally, and notwithstanding other<br />

production variables, cloudy worts make for a malty final spirit, and clear worts<br />

for a fruitier one. Flavor, however, develops at a much more significant rate during<br />

fermentation, the source of change being the type of yeast(s) used as well as the<br />

length of time given to the process.<br />

Briefly, in addition to ethyl alcohol, fermentation results in the production of small<br />

amounts of powerful secondary flavor compounds, formed as the result of different<br />

chemicals reacting with each other at different times during fermentation. Generally,<br />

the shorter the fermentation, the more the wash will retain those original grain notes;<br />

conversely, the longer the fermentation, the fruitier it will be.<br />

Finally, at what level these vital secondary flavors are retained in the final spirit<br />

depends on the shape of the still, the way it is operated, and the strength at which<br />

the spirit is drawn off.<br />

Laphroaig<br />

RULES OF DISTILLER THUMB:<br />

The Ardmore<br />

Hakushu<br />

Bowmore<br />

• Copper has the effect of<br />

stripping the distillate of heavier<br />

compounds, including various<br />

sulfides. The greater the amount<br />

of vapor-to-copper contact,<br />

the lighter and more elegant<br />

the final spirit; the shorter<br />

the contact, the heavier, more<br />

meaty its character<br />

• As the temperature increases,<br />

flavor compounds evaporate<br />

in order of weight, lightest to<br />

heaviest. The earlier the first cut,<br />

the more floral, grassy or green<br />

the taste of the final spirit<br />

• The later the first cut, the fruitier<br />

it will be, progressing from crisp<br />

to stewed fruits. Meanwhile, the<br />

later the second cut, the heavier<br />

the new make, with typical<br />

flavors including smoke, grain,<br />

tar and various oils<br />

• Levels of ethyl alcohol decrease<br />

throughout the run. The earlier<br />

the cut, the stronger the new<br />

make, yielding an increasingly<br />

neutral-tasting spirit. Thus, the<br />

later the cut, the lower the<br />

strength, so the greater the new<br />

make’s depth of flavor. This<br />

helps explain the milder flavor<br />

profile of grain whisky, which<br />

is typically drawn off the still at<br />

much higher strengths than potstilled<br />

malt whiskies<br />

Connemara<br />

The Five Distilleries<br />

It is thought, Protector, that the average distillery contributes to 30% of a given single<br />

malt whisky’s flavour profile.<br />

17<br />

18


In the Name of Oak<br />

PROCESS OF MATURATION<br />

While the spreading of all things peat, Protector, is our reason for living, it would be<br />

considered a dereliction of duty were we to forget the significance of the process<br />

of maturation, which has a profound effect on the final character of a single malt<br />

whisky. It does so in three general and interrelated ways:<br />

• Once in cask, the spirit expands<br />

and contracts, extracting flavors<br />

from the wood<br />

• At the same time, the process of<br />

evaporation causes unwanted flavor<br />

compounds such as sulfides to be<br />

expelled and replaced by oxygen,<br />

which acts as a catalyst for further<br />

chemical change<br />

• In time, oxygen, water and ethanol<br />

variously aid a series of chemical<br />

reactions between various compounds.<br />

The end result a balanced, complex<br />

whisky strong in fruity esters<br />

THE IMPORTANCE OF OAK<br />

By choosing the types of oak and<br />

casks used, we have much greater<br />

flexibility and control over the process<br />

of maturation.<br />

To begin, a single-malt whisky is<br />

usually laid down in either American<br />

white oak or European oak, each of<br />

which gives the distillate a distinctive<br />

flavor profile.<br />

• Whisky matured in American oak<br />

is characterized by vanilla, coconut,<br />

caramel, red fruits, sometimes ginger<br />

and almonds, and eventually leather<br />

and tobacco. The resultant liquid is<br />

usually an amber-gold color<br />

• European oak makes for a drier,<br />

tannin-heavy profile, one marked<br />

by more spice, by clove and<br />

cinnamon, by caramelized orange.<br />

The resultant liquid is usually a deep<br />

mahogany color<br />

• Occasionally, a distillate will be laid<br />

down in Japanese oak. Although it<br />

is much like European oak, it gives<br />

a whisky an extra spiciness, like that<br />

of incense, as well as a more acidic,<br />

fruity profile<br />

Barrels at Laphroaig Distillery<br />

Oak Trees give the distillate a distinctive flavour profile<br />

19<br />

20


Manipulating the Wood<br />

Beyond the effect that the type of oak used has on maturation, we are able to tailor<br />

that influence in several important ways:<br />

• While not always the case, casks<br />

are increasingly made with yardaged<br />

wood, a process that sees the<br />

oak’s tannins broken down naturally<br />

and over time, making for less<br />

astringent products<br />

• The vast majority of casks used for<br />

the maturation of single malt whisky<br />

are toasted and/or charred before<br />

being filled. Both processes involve<br />

the application of thermal heat to the<br />

insides of the casks, indirectly (toasted)<br />

or directly (charred). Each serves to<br />

caramelize the wood’s sugars, release<br />

certain wood compounds, convert<br />

others, and reduce tannins. Charring<br />

also acts as a filter, helping rid the<br />

spirit of unwanted sulfides. Toasting<br />

penetrates more deeply<br />

• The more used a cask, the less the<br />

influence it will have on the distillate.<br />

A first refill cask will impart more color<br />

and wood to the distillate, while a<br />

second or third-refill cask will allow<br />

for more of the distillery’s character to<br />

show through<br />

SINGLE MALT WHISKIES ARE<br />

ALMOST ALWAYS MATURED IN<br />

CASKS PREVIO<strong>US</strong>LY <strong>US</strong>ED FOR<br />

THE PRODUCTION OF RUM,<br />

BOURBON, SHERRY, OR WINE<br />

• Ex-Bourbon casks tend to<br />

impart the distillate with extra<br />

vanilla and caramel flavors<br />

• Ex–Pedro Ximénez (PX)<br />

casks impart the distillate<br />

with an added dry,<br />

Christmassy sweetness<br />

• Ex-oloroso casks imbue<br />

the distillate with notes of<br />

fruitcake and toffee, and a<br />

hint of struck match<br />

• Ex-wine casks are often<br />

sourced in France, and as<br />

such are made with French<br />

oak, which adds notes<br />

of spice<br />

So, Protector, easy to see, is it not, why the process of maturation should account<br />

for some 70 percent of the flavor profile of a single malt whisky.<br />

Where Angels Love to Tread<br />

and Other Watery Matters<br />

When speaking of flavor profiles, Protector, and how they influence whisky production,<br />

we would be justly whipped for not mentioning the significance of climate.<br />

Broadly speaking, wood policies - cask selection, fill strength, and warehouse<br />

strategies - take into account the effects of temperature and humidity on annual<br />

rates of evaporation:<br />

• In maritime climates such as those of<br />

Scotland, Ireland, and Japan, average<br />

temperatures are low, so a cask will<br />

lose 2-4 percent of its liquid each year<br />

• Given the high levels of humidity,<br />

the loss is more in alcohol than it<br />

is in water, so strength levels in<br />

maritime climates gradually fall<br />

during maturation<br />

The Climate on Islay effects the processes at Laphroaig Distillery<br />

and orientation of the structure,<br />

individual warehouses have<br />

their own microclimates, which<br />

is why distilleries may prioritize<br />

certain warehouses for specific<br />

brands/expressions<br />

• Maritime-influenced conditions<br />

make for slower and therefore<br />

longer maturation cycles<br />

• Depending on several factors — such<br />

as the materials used for construction<br />

Charring barrels at the Jim Beam Distillery<br />

Less specifically, one of the key factors in whisky making is the quality of water. The<br />

result of using poor water will, of course, be a poor whisky. Often, a natural source of<br />

water will be the prime reason for a distillery’s location. The type of water, hard or soft,<br />

and its chemical composition will have a direct bearing on the whisky’s final taste.<br />

21<br />

22


The Character of Place<br />

SCOTLAND<br />

SCOTLAND<br />

Officially, Scotland is divided into five whisky areas, with the Islands (less Islay)<br />

being a part of the Highlands. Even so, people often treat the Islands as a separate<br />

region. Either way, and notwithstanding the character idiosyncrasies of individual<br />

distilleries, it is possible, Protector, to speak loosely of the regional flavor profiles of<br />

single malt Scotch whisky.<br />

6<br />

1<br />

SPEYSIDE<br />

4<br />

ISLAY<br />

Technically, Speyside lies within the<br />

Highland region, but it’s home to<br />

so many of Scotland’s malt whisky<br />

distilleries – approximately half – that<br />

it’s classified as a whisky region in its<br />

own right. This small area of land to<br />

the north west of Aberdeen produces<br />

mellow, sweet, malty and particularly<br />

fruity whiskies.<br />

Widely regarded as Whisky Island,<br />

Islay is a relatively small island that is<br />

70 miles to the west of Glasgow and<br />

inaccessible by road. There are eight<br />

active distilleries on Islay. The malt<br />

whiskies produced here have their own<br />

distinctive character and flavor; the<br />

majority are peaty, robust, and refined<br />

in equal measure, and briny.<br />

2<br />

1<br />

2<br />

HIGHLANDS<br />

5<br />

CAMPBELTOWN<br />

The Highland region is geographically<br />

the largest Scotch whisky–producing<br />

region. The rugged landscape and<br />

changing climate are reflected in the<br />

character of the region’s whiskies,<br />

which display wide variations. Too<br />

diverse to categorize, Highland<br />

whiskies can range from dry and<br />

heathery to sweet and fruity, and they<br />

become notably smoky in the west.<br />

3 LOWLANDS<br />

6<br />

Campbeltown lies on Scotland’s Kintyre<br />

peninsula. Once a major producer of<br />

whisky, it was home to as many as 28<br />

distilleries in its heyday and claimed<br />

the title Whisky Capital of the World.<br />

Today there are three distilleries in<br />

Campbeltown: Springbank, Glengyle,<br />

and Glen Scotia. Whiskies from here are<br />

generally full bodied with a deep flavor<br />

and slight sea-salt tang to the finish.<br />

THE ISLANDS<br />

4<br />

5 3<br />

The region lies south of a line drawn<br />

from the Clyde estuary on the west<br />

coast to the Tay estuary on the east<br />

coast. It is home to far fewer distilleries<br />

than the likes of Speyside and the<br />

Highlands, and its whiskies tend to be<br />

much softer and lighter in character.<br />

They often display very malty, grassy<br />

characteristics and more subtle,<br />

delicate aromas than whiskies from<br />

other regions.<br />

This area includes all the islands other<br />

than Islay, notably Jura, the Orkney<br />

Isles, Mull, the Isle of Skye, and the<br />

Isle of Arran. The characters of these<br />

whiskies vary considerably. The<br />

northernmost location for malt whisky<br />

distillation remains the Orkney Isles,<br />

where there are two distilleries, Scapa<br />

and Highland Park.<br />

Generally speaking, the west coast of Scotland, much like the Pacific Northwest<br />

of the United States, is wet, often stormy, and usually much more humid than the<br />

Highlands, which are relatively cooler and drier. The overall climate difference<br />

helps explain the difference between the whiskies made on stormy Islay and those<br />

made on the eastern mainland at The Ardmore.<br />

23<br />

24.


OWING TO THEIR RELATIVELY LOW DISTILLERY COUNT,<br />

JAPAN AND IRELAND ARE NOT BROKEN DOWN INTO<br />

REGIONS. INSTEAD, CHARACTER IS UNDERSTOOD AS<br />

BOTH NATIONAL AND INDIVIDUAL<br />

IRELAND<br />

Meanwhile, because of the predominance<br />

of pot still–style whiskies in Ireland -<br />

consisting of mashbills made of malted<br />

and unmalted barley, and typically<br />

triple distilled - the country’s whiskies<br />

are slightly oilier, more acidic, and<br />

very refined and elegant.<br />

JAPAN<br />

There is a great level of attention<br />

given to every aspect of the production<br />

of Japanese single malt whiskies, and<br />

they are renowned for not being<br />

malty, as well as for their balance and<br />

complexity, their weighty lightness,<br />

their absolute craftsmanship.<br />

But, dear friend, when discussing regions as representative of single styles, tread<br />

with care: for every pattern uncovered, so springs an anomaly. Explain, sure, but<br />

always with a pocketful of caveats, especially with respect to the Highlands, to<br />

Campbeltown, to Japan and Ireland.<br />

25<br />

26


Chapter Three<br />

MUD, GLORIO<strong>US</strong> MUD<br />

27 28.


Mud,<br />

GLORIO<strong>US</strong> MUD<br />

Welcome, Protector. Peat, mud of life, true bog, source of much that is smoke. Here<br />

we look at its history, the science behind the reek, and the differences among the<br />

various types of peated whiskies.<br />

A Brief Note on Peat<br />

Peat (turf) is an organic material composed of partially decayed vegetation. Evolutionarily<br />

speaking, it displays characteristics of both plant matter and brown coal.<br />

Peat is found in damp and marshy regions, accumulated over thousands of years,<br />

largely in so-called peatlands, and in mires or bogs. Its unique constitution is the<br />

result of perennial flooding that slows the rate at which oxygen is absorbed from<br />

the atmosphere, and thus the rate at which the vegetation decomposes.<br />

Historically, peat has been utilized as a building material, bog iron, and fertilizer, and<br />

in the Dark Ages as a holy burial site for the ritually sacrificed. Generally, however, it<br />

has been an important source of fuel: once cut and dried, it burns extremely well.<br />

Thus it is that Scottish distillers in areas bereft of fuel alternatives have used peat<br />

as a means of drying out the malting barley. The style of making peated single<br />

malt whisky was exported to Japan in 1923, where it continues to thrive. It has<br />

only recently been revived in Ireland.<br />

Making the Peat Reek<br />

While different distilleries will employ<br />

slightly different methods, in standard<br />

production peat is harvested — usually<br />

by machine, rarely by hand — and then<br />

arranged in blocks or briquettes, or broken<br />

up and arranged to dry in pyramids.<br />

It is then fed into a kiln, the heat (150-<br />

plus degrees Fahrenheit) generated,<br />

rising up through the perforated drying<br />

floor into the kiln, drying out the barley,<br />

and thus halting germination.<br />

The smoky flavor from peat is derived<br />

largely from phenolic compounds known as<br />

simple phenols, which occur in sphagnum,<br />

better known as peat moss.<br />

Other, less complementary smoky<br />

flavors, are derived from burnt wood,<br />

namely carbonyls and guaiacols.<br />

When burnt, the peat releases the<br />

simple phenols and the other less<br />

smoky compounds as vaporized oils,<br />

the resultant phenolic aroma known<br />

as peat reek. These compounds are<br />

absorbed by the damp barley, imbuing<br />

it with the taste of smoke.<br />

The less smoky flavor compounds - the<br />

carbonyls and guaiacols take the edge off<br />

the dominating phenolic flavors, which on<br />

their own impart the whisky with a more<br />

notable taste of cresol/iodine.<br />

In this respect, Protector, while used<br />

interchangeably, there is indeed a<br />

distinction between peat and smoke,<br />

with the much more phenolic whiskies<br />

(Laphroaig) better described as peaty,<br />

and the more wood-derived peated<br />

whiskies (The Ardmore, for example)<br />

best understood as smoky.<br />

Peat cutting at Bowmore Distillery<br />

Cut peat at Bowmore Distillery<br />

29<br />

30


Tailoring the Peat<br />

A peated whisky can be lightly, moderately, or heavily peated. These descriptions<br />

refer to the malted barley’s original phenol levels. These levels are measured in<br />

parts per million (PPM) of phenol.<br />

PPM LEVELS<br />

• Lightly peated whiskies are measured as less than 5 PPM phenols<br />

• Medium peated whiskies are 5–15 PPM phenols<br />

• Heavily peated whiskies are 15–50 PPM phenols<br />

• Very heavily peated whiskies can reach more than 100 PPM phenols<br />

Actual levels will depend on the length of time that the barley is exposed to the<br />

smoke, how much smoke is produced, and the type of peat used.<br />

Phenol measures are taken once the barley has been malted. The final level of peat<br />

in a whisky is generally less than the levels originally measured. Levels decrease<br />

throughout production, particularly during distillation and maturation.<br />

RULE<br />

OF THUMB<br />

The later the cut, the smokier the whisky; the<br />

longer its maturation, the softer and less smoky<br />

the whisky becomes<br />

Standing Stones by The Ardmore Distillery<br />

31<br />

32


Chapter Four<br />

A TASTE OF PEAT<br />

33


A Taste<br />

OF PEAT<br />

EVERYTHING TH<strong>US</strong> FAR M<strong>US</strong>ED, PROTECTOR, COMES<br />

DOWN TO THIS, THE MOMENT YOU APPLY YOUR<br />

NOBLE TASTE BUDS TO THAT WONDER OF WONDERS:<br />

A GLASS OF PEATED SINGLE MALT WHISKY<br />

POUR<br />

Pour yourself a measure of whisky. A<br />

nosing glass that is narrower at the<br />

top than the bottom is best. Hold it by<br />

the stem or base so as not to warm the<br />

glass. Have a bottle of unchilled water<br />

at hand. Be generous.<br />

NOSE<br />

Nose and breathe in deeply, mouth<br />

open. Think of what the aromas signify,<br />

the memories they evoke. Classic smoky<br />

aromas are the peat, but search for<br />

vanilla, caramel, and various fruits,<br />

perhaps more savory notes, too.<br />

COLOUR<br />

Hold the glass up to the light. Color<br />

doesn’t necessarily reveal age, but it<br />

does provide clues as to how the whisky<br />

was matured. A deep red-golden single<br />

malt, for example, is likely to have been<br />

matured in sherry oak casks, while a<br />

paler whisky suggests bourbon casks.<br />

TASTE<br />

Finally, sip from the glass, letting the<br />

whisky travel the length and breadth of<br />

the mouth and nestle on your tongue.<br />

As well as the aromas and flavors<br />

you’re experiencing, think about the<br />

mouthfeel - how it physically feels,<br />

whether it feels, for example, full and<br />

smooth, or sharp and thin, and whether<br />

it’s dry or sweet.<br />

John Campbell hosting a tasting at Laphoaig Distillery<br />

LEGS<br />

Hold the glass at an angle and rotate<br />

it briskly, so that the whisky coats the<br />

inside of the glass. Now hold it upright<br />

and watch the liquid form the legs as<br />

it runs down the sides of the glass.<br />

Generally speaking, the slower the<br />

legs, the higher the level of viscosity<br />

and the older the whisky.<br />

WATER<br />

Add a little water. Don’t drown the whisky.<br />

Just a few drops should be enough to<br />

release flavor compounds locked in<br />

by ethanol compounds. Now swirl the<br />

glass, nose the whisky, and take a small<br />

mouthful along with some air. You’ll be<br />

amazed at all the different aromatics and<br />

subtleties that suddenly emerge.<br />

JOY & KNOWLEDGE<br />

There are no right or wrong ways to describe the aromas and tastes you’re experiencing,<br />

but if you’re interested in talking more deeply about the taste, about how the flavors<br />

developed there, then think: malted barley, particularly peat-dried kilns; yeast and length<br />

of fermentation; stills, their size and shape, their use, and the vapor-copper contact; and<br />

type of oak and cask, warehouse conditions, and maturation strategies.<br />

There’s a science to the magic, Protector, and much of it is contained in these pages.<br />

Study it. Know it. Love it.<br />

35<br />

36


A Taste<br />

OF PEAT<br />

Our five distilleries, Protector, span not only Europe and Asia, but also the full<br />

boggy range, from light to heavy, medicinal to floral. Here are their stories: at a<br />

glance; the histories that birthed them; the individual peaty taste of each distillery.<br />

Guard them with your life. Tell all who will listen and all who won’t.<br />

The Portfolio Distilled<br />

CONNAMARA<br />

(Co-na-ma-ra)<br />

THE ARDMORE<br />

(Thee-ard-more)<br />

Established in 1891 by Adam Teacher<br />

in the Eastern Highlands, The Ardmore<br />

was initially created to serve as the<br />

keystone peated malt of Teacher’s<br />

Highland Cream, a once-legendary<br />

blend. An independent bottlers’<br />

favorite, it eventually brought out<br />

its own standard official single malt<br />

bottling in 2007, its reputation for<br />

being an old-style whisky developing<br />

a cult following all of its own.<br />

IRELAND<br />

Boundary-breaking, owned by Kilbeggan<br />

Distilling Company, distilled in Cooley<br />

Distillery, Connemara is Ireland’s first<br />

peated whiskey. An anomaly in a<br />

world dominated by triple-distilled,<br />

Irish pot still and blended whiskies, it<br />

is a double distilled single malt and<br />

combines the peatiness of an Islay<br />

whisky with Irish production qualities.<br />

BOWMORE<br />

(Bow-more)<br />

Islay’s oldest distillery, Bowmore,<br />

was founded in 1779 and is<br />

renowned for the production of<br />

super balanced peated whiskies.<br />

Its reputation cemented in the mid-<br />

20th century, under the guidance<br />

of Stanley Morrison, it has become<br />

one of the world’s most well-loved<br />

peated single malts. Bowmore was<br />

bought outright by Suntory in 1994.<br />

SCOTLAND<br />

HAK<strong>US</strong>HU<br />

(Hack-shoo)<br />

Built in 1973, a vast distillery situated in<br />

the forests of Mount Kaikomagatake,<br />

Hakushu was expressly set up as a<br />

crisp, vibrant counterpoint to Suntory’s<br />

Yamazaki distillery. It is made with<br />

water sourced from Japan’s southern<br />

alps and possesses a multitude of<br />

whisky types, all known for their direct<br />

and fresh character. Hakushu’s range<br />

of peated whiskies is world class.<br />

JAPAN<br />

LAPHROAIG<br />

(La-froyg)<br />

Situated on the wilder edges of the<br />

whisky map, on the southern coast of<br />

Islay, Laphroaig is known for producing<br />

the world’s most deeply flavored single<br />

malt whisky. Founded in 1815, it grew<br />

into a worldwide cult whisky under<br />

the guidance of distillery-owner Iain<br />

Henderson and has a Royal Warrant<br />

from HRH Prince Charles. Bought<br />

by Fortune Brands in 2005, it was<br />

rationalized under Beam Inc. in 2011.<br />

37<br />

38


Chapter Five<br />

COUNTRIES OF PEAT<br />

39


Countries<br />

OF PEAT<br />

TYPES OF SCOTTISH PEAT<br />

Today, the peat used in Scotch whiskies is largely found in Islay, the north-east<br />

Highlands and Orkney. Given these areas’ differing bioclimatic histories, the flavor<br />

enhancing characteristics of their particular peats are perceptively different:<br />

Scotland<br />

STORY OF SCOTTISH PEAT<br />

The history of peat in Scottish whisky<br />

making is near enough the history of<br />

Scotch maltings up until the 1800s. Its<br />

use as a kilning fuel was ubiquitous in the<br />

Islands, Campbeltown and the north-east<br />

Highlands, and as a whisky style, peat<br />

was dominant throughout Scotland.<br />

However, with the advent of the Industrial<br />

Revolution it was gradually replaced<br />

by more efficient fuels: first coal and<br />

later gas and oil. Even so, it remained<br />

a major feature of the industry right up<br />

until the Second World War, its prevalent<br />

use in Blended Scotches and Vatted or<br />

Pure Malts (now called Blended Malts)<br />

guaranteeing its continued importance.<br />

Since then, though, it has diminished in<br />

the Lowlands from roughly one third to<br />

virtually nothing, and in the mainland<br />

Highland distilleries from three quarters<br />

to just above nothing. Today, it is the<br />

major fuel source for kilning in only a<br />

handful of mainly island-based distilleries.<br />

Still, whatever the decline in its actual<br />

use, Scottish peat continues to occupy<br />

an extraordinarily important corner<br />

of the single malt category, defining<br />

the character of some of the world’s<br />

greatest and best-known Scottish<br />

distilleries, and serving as the main<br />

source of kilning fuel for distilleries<br />

throughout the world.<br />

The lowering of duty paid, paved the<br />

way for exponential growth of the<br />

number of legitimate distilleries in<br />

Ireland and Scotland. Aging became<br />

first a prerequisite for the good stuff,<br />

and then the law.<br />

ORKNEY<br />

The peat on Orkney falls between the<br />

two, and depending on the depth of<br />

extraction, generally results in a more<br />

floral-like smoky flavor.<br />

HIGHLANDS<br />

In the mainland Highlands, the greater<br />

ratio of wood to peat moss makes for<br />

bonfire-like smoky flavors.<br />

ISLAY<br />

Composed of a ratio of less wood<br />

to peat moss, Islay has a higher<br />

phenol count, and is therefore more<br />

medicinal in flavor.<br />

Malt grains at Laphroaig Distillery<br />

41<br />

42


SOURCE OF THE MALT<br />

Whereas in the 1800s maltings were<br />

by and large performed locally, they<br />

are now carried out by a handful of<br />

large facilities, the main suppliers being<br />

Diageo (Roseisle, Port Ellen, Glen Ord<br />

and Tamdhu), Simpsons (Tweed Valley),<br />

Bairds Malt (Abroath and Inverness),<br />

Crisp Malting Group (Buckie).<br />

A tiny rump of distilleries has retained some<br />

or all of their malting facilities. Springbank,<br />

Tamdhu and Glen Ord distilleries malt<br />

100% on site, and Laphroaig, Bowmore,<br />

Kilchoman, Highland Park, Benriach<br />

and Balvenie malt a percentage of their<br />

barley on site.<br />

Mashing machine at The Ardmore<br />

WHERE THE PEAT TORCH BURNS<br />

Just nine Scottish distilleries are defined<br />

by peat: Islay’s Laphroaig, Bowmore,<br />

Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Ardbeg, and<br />

Lagavulin, and the Highland’s Talisker,<br />

The Ardmore and Highland Park.<br />

Though not possessing the same<br />

degree of peat-centric flavor profiles,<br />

a somewhat larger group of Scottish<br />

distilleries produce significant lines<br />

of peated single malt whiskies, most<br />

obviously Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain<br />

and Springbank, but also Edradour,<br />

Jura, Tobermory, Tomintoul, Arran,<br />

Benromach and Benriach. (This is not a<br />

definitive list.)<br />

Finally, Protector, there are the closeddistillery<br />

and rarer bottlings of peated<br />

single malt whiskies to think about.<br />

Port Ellen and Bora are the best-known<br />

closed-distillery bottlings and rare<br />

official peated bottlings from the likes<br />

of Glen Garioch, Bladnoch and Glen<br />

Scotia surface from time to time.<br />

Note: While Glen Garioch, another<br />

of Beam Suntory’s distilleries, is today<br />

a non-peated whisky, this was not<br />

always the case. Together with eastern<br />

Highlands neighbor, The Ardmore, it<br />

was long known for its peaty malts, its<br />

output largely going to blends. Closed<br />

and opened several times in its long<br />

history, it was mothballed in 1994, and<br />

when reopened in 1997 the decision was<br />

made to drop the peat. We live in hope.<br />

43<br />

44


Japan<br />

The story, Protector, of Japan’s love affair with whisky is said to have begun in<br />

1864, when the Emperor Meiji reportedly took receipt of a case of Scotch or<br />

bourbon - no one’s sure which.<br />

However, it wasn’t until 1923 that the country began to make its own whisky, at<br />

Suntory’s Yamazaki Distillery. Created by owner Shinjiro Torii and the then master<br />

distiller, Masataka Taketsuru, the distillery’s very first release was the heavily<br />

peated Shirofuda, in 1929. Peat has since played a central role in the development<br />

of Japanese whiskies – single malts and blends alike.<br />

Save some experimental maltings with peat sourced from the Hokkaido peatlands,<br />

Japanese producers tend to source their peated maltings exclusively from Scotland.<br />

Apart from Yamazaki and Hakushu (Suntory), and Yoichi and Miyagikyo (Nikka),<br />

Japanese distilleries with peated whisky lines include Karuizawa, Chichibu, Mars<br />

Shinshu and Fuji-Gotembo.<br />

Ireland<br />

In terms of whiskey making, Protector, Ireland is in the middle of a serious renaissance.<br />

The number of distilleries founded in the last few years continues to grow, with new<br />

offerings cropping up regularly, particularly at Beam’s own Cooley Distillery.<br />

However, whatever the range of styles on offer, the landscape has long been<br />

dominated by Irish pot still whiskies and blends, the latter consisting of mainly<br />

pot still and grain whiskies.<br />

All of which means that the spark for the revival of the Irish peated single malt is<br />

Connemara, which sources its maltings from Port Ellen in Islay. Irish and Islay, it’s<br />

a wonderful example of a very different type of peated whiskey.<br />

Left: Hakushu Distillery in Spring<br />

45<br />

46


Chapter Six<br />

A BRIEF HISTORY<br />

OF FIVE DISTILLERIES<br />

47


A Brief History of<br />

FIVE DISTILLERIES<br />

Laphroaig<br />

The Laphroaig Distillery was officially founded in 1815 by Donald and Alexander<br />

Johnston, on the site of a farm. Laphroaig means “beautiful hollow by the broad<br />

bay”, and the location provided a steady source of water from the granite basin in<br />

the nearby Kilbride Hills.<br />

The distillery remained in family hands<br />

for the next 139 years; the latter part of<br />

the nineteenth century spent servicing<br />

the blend industry. Any single malt<br />

produced not going to blends would<br />

have been sold to locals in jugs. After<br />

managing to defeat the blend-hungry<br />

attentions of agent Peter Mackie, the<br />

distillery reserved greater portions of<br />

the distillate for itself.<br />

Under the stewardship of owner-distiller<br />

Ian Hunter, Laphroaig bottled its single<br />

malt for the first time in 1923. The distillery<br />

expanded from two to four stills. Hunter<br />

dispensed agents across the world,<br />

especially to America, where Laphroaig<br />

gained a strong foothold, and was even<br />

sold during Prohibition – on the grounds<br />

that it was a medicine. With its reputation<br />

growing, and the Laphroaig recipe<br />

finalized, Hunter was joined in 1932<br />

by Elizabeth ‘Bessie’ Leitch Williamson,<br />

who would take over as owner-distiller<br />

on Hunter’s death in 1954 – becoming<br />

Scotland’s first and only female distiller<br />

during the twentieth century.<br />

In the 1940s Hunter had already taken<br />

the decision to switch up the distillery’s<br />

wood policy, swapping the rarer and<br />

more expensive European oak exsherry<br />

cask for American white oak<br />

ex-Bourbon cask. Further expansion<br />

under both he and Williamson saw<br />

Laphroaig’s reputation cemented as<br />

the world’s most richly flavored peated<br />

single malt whisky.<br />

In 1994 the distillery was granted a<br />

Royal Warrant by HRH Prince Charles,<br />

the same year in which it officially<br />

set up Friends of Laphroaig. Prince<br />

Charles’s parting words to the then<br />

distillery manager Iain Henderson: ‘I<br />

hope you continue to use the traditional<br />

methods. I think you make the finest<br />

whisky in the world.’<br />

The master distiller baton taken up in<br />

1972 by John MacDougal, passed<br />

from Denis Nicol to Iain Henderson<br />

and finally on to John Campbell.<br />

Presently, Laphroaig is capable of a<br />

yearly produce of 3,300,000 liters.<br />

Right: Laphroaig Distillery<br />

49<br />

50


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

51<br />

52


Bowmore<br />

Founded in 1779, owned in the early decades of the nineteenth century by three<br />

generations of the Simpson family, Bowmore is Islay’s oldest distillery, and is<br />

located off Loch Indaal, in the center of Bowmore itself, its water sourced from<br />

the Laggan River.<br />

While we are slightly hazy on the origins<br />

of the name itself, sometimes attributed<br />

to a nearby and notorious reef, or to a<br />

Lowlander corruption of Poll-mor (Great<br />

Pool), or to the Norse for Bogha Moor<br />

(sunken rock), the village of Bowmore was<br />

founded by Daniel Campbell in 1768,<br />

and lays claim to being Scotland’s first<br />

planned village. Today, as well as being<br />

home to one of the world’s most famous<br />

distilleries, it is Islay’s administrative center.<br />

Like all Islay-based distilleries, Bowmore<br />

would have begun life as a very local<br />

affair, producing single malt for the<br />

almost exclusive consumption of its island<br />

fellows. However, its purchase in 1837 by<br />

Glasgow-based William & James Mutter<br />

saw it begin to expand beyond Islay and<br />

its early reputation brought the accolade<br />

of royal custom when in 1841 Windsor<br />

Castle is recorded as having taken receipt<br />

of a cask of Bowmore.<br />

After Mutters finally sold in 1890,<br />

ownership of Bowmore would pass first<br />

through JR Holmes, then JB Sherriff<br />

& Co., and finally William Grigor &<br />

Sons, before ending up with Stanley<br />

P Morrison (1963), who with one J<br />

Howat had expressly founded Morrison<br />

Bowmore Distillers Ltd in order to make<br />

the purchase. A through-and-through<br />

whisky man, it is under Morrison that<br />

Bowmore doubled capacity, and helped<br />

restore single malt whisky as a drink in<br />

its own right. His knowledge and longsighted<br />

strategic thinking resulted in the<br />

eventual bottling of what are now some<br />

of the world’s most sought after malts.<br />

Among all this are three very different<br />

stories: During the Second World<br />

War, the temporarily decommissioned<br />

distillery hosted both the Royal and<br />

Canadian Air Forces. In 1980, the<br />

Queen made Bowmore her one and<br />

only distillery visit – ever. And in 1991,<br />

the distillery donated No.3 Warehouse<br />

for conversion into the local leisure<br />

center, agreeing to use its recycled hot<br />

water to heat the pool.<br />

In 1987, Suntory bought roughly a<br />

third share in Morrison Bowmore, and<br />

went on to acquire the rest of the<br />

company in 1994. Morrison Bowmore<br />

operates three distilleries: Bowmore,<br />

Glen Garioch and Auchentoshan.<br />

Today, Protector, Bowmore has an<br />

annual capacity of some two million<br />

liters. The present master distiller is<br />

Eddie McCaffer, while the master<br />

blender is Rachael Barrie. Its evergrowing<br />

community of fans is called<br />

the ‘Inner Core’.<br />

Left: Bowmore Distillery<br />

53<br />

54


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

55<br />

56


The Ardmore<br />

Built in 1898 in the Garioch, Eastern Highlands, by Adam Teacher & Sons, The<br />

Ardmore was never supposed to be known as a bottler of fine single malts. Rather<br />

its purpose was to serve its mighty Teacher’s Highland Blend with distinction.<br />

Situated on the Aberdeen-to-Inverness<br />

railway, with plenty of local water<br />

sources, it was perfectly placed. Powered<br />

by a steam engine, it was, at the time, a<br />

state-of-the-art facility. An old style whisky,<br />

it’s the only malt in the area to hold on to<br />

its peaty origins, and replaced its coalfired<br />

stills with steam as late as 2002.<br />

With its two stills increased to four in 1955,<br />

and then to eight in 1974, The Ardmore<br />

was always a mighty distillery. It retained<br />

its own Saladin maltings facilities right up<br />

until 1976, and remains a go to malt in the<br />

blend and independent bottling markets.<br />

However, given an annual capacity of<br />

5,400,000 litres, it was clearly always<br />

more than capable of properly entering<br />

into the world of the single malt for<br />

itself, which it did first in 1999, when<br />

it brought out an anniversary 12 Year<br />

Old and a limited edition 21 Year old,<br />

and then in 2007, when it released The<br />

Ardmore Traditional Cask, the first of<br />

its core expressions.<br />

While Adam Teacher died before<br />

its completion, The Ardmore would<br />

remain a family-owned distillery until<br />

1976, when Adam Teacher & Sons<br />

was bought by Allied Breweries. The<br />

Ardmore was acquired by Jim Beam<br />

Brands in 2005. Alistair Longwell has<br />

been responsible for guiding The Ardmore<br />

through the last decade of change.<br />

Right: The Ardmore Distillery<br />

57<br />

58


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

59<br />

60


Connemara<br />

Connemara was inspired by local distillers from the wild, rugged region of Connemara<br />

on Ireland’s Atlantic coast. During the 18th and 19th Century, often operating illegally,<br />

these remote distillers relied on nearby peat bogs as a source of fuel for drying out the<br />

malted barley. It is this tradition that Connemara carries on to this day.<br />

Connemara follows many of the unique<br />

distilling techniques like the rest of the<br />

Kilbeggan Distilling Company’s family<br />

of brands. It is double distilled in small<br />

batches and aged in American white oak<br />

ex-Bourbon barrels. The unique quality<br />

comes from the fact that all of the malted<br />

barley used to make this whiskey is dried<br />

over fires set with peat moss to give it<br />

a distinctly smoky finish. Connemara<br />

original, is a blend of 4, 6 and 8 years<br />

old single malt, taking older and younger<br />

whiskies and marrying them to make<br />

a smooth and distinct finished product.<br />

The 6 year old liquid blends the older<br />

and younger liquid together perfectly.<br />

Each barrel is selected by hand for the<br />

blending process to carefully preserve<br />

the taste of this whiskey.<br />

Connemara is distinct within Irish whiskey<br />

in that it is double distilled and peated.<br />

Irish Whiskey is primarily triple distilled<br />

and either produced as a blend or potstill<br />

whiskey. Connemara’s unique profile is<br />

balanced, slightly sweet with notes of<br />

peat and the quintessential smoothness<br />

for which Irish Whiskey is known.<br />

Connemara is produced at the Cooley<br />

distillery in County Louth. Part of the<br />

Kilbeggan Distilling Co. founded in<br />

1987, it was converted from a potato<br />

alcohol factory. Cooley Distillery was<br />

Ireland’s first new distillery in almost 100<br />

years. It was bought in 2011 by Beam<br />

Inc, which in turn became Beam Suntory<br />

in 2014.<br />

One of the most awarded whiskies in<br />

all of Ireland, it continues to be the<br />

leader of the peated revival currently<br />

taking place in Ireland. Available<br />

expressions in the <strong>US</strong> are Connemara<br />

Original, Connemara 12 Year Old and<br />

Connemara Cask Strength.<br />

Left: Connemara Distillery<br />

61<br />

62


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

63<br />

64


Hakushu<br />

Built in 1973 in the foothills of Mt Kaikomagatake, Japan, Hakushu was founded<br />

on the 50th anniversary of Japanese whisky making. Once the world’s largest malt<br />

distillery, it produced a staggering 30 million liters of whisky a year, and serves as<br />

a sure sign of Japan’s mid-to-late twentieth century whisky boom.<br />

At the time, Hakushu was divided into<br />

two still houses, East and West. Today,<br />

it operates out of the East wing, which<br />

with 12 stills is an enormous facility in<br />

its own right. The West wing is used<br />

as a laboratory for experimenting with<br />

new whiskies. Water is sourced from<br />

nearby streams, and the entire distillery<br />

grows out of its forested environs, the<br />

belief being that Hakushu is more than<br />

its function – that it is a dwelling or<br />

‘soul-place’ of whisky artisans, and as<br />

such sits in perfect harmony with its<br />

natural surrounds.<br />

This very Suntory Hakushu philosophy<br />

incorporates change as much as it<br />

does continuity. The distillery has<br />

periodically changed its stills setup,<br />

most recently in 1983. It uses four types<br />

of malted barley, different yeasts, a<br />

range of differently sized and shaped<br />

stills, and ages its spirits in different<br />

type oaks, including American White,<br />

European and Japanese.<br />

An extraordinarily efficient, experimental<br />

and ever-changing facility, capacity at<br />

Hakushu is roughly three million liters,<br />

while its creative direction lies in the<br />

hands of its six-strong master blending<br />

team, headed up by Shinji Fukuyo.<br />

Right: Hakushu Distillery<br />

65<br />

66


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

67<br />

68


Chapter Seven<br />

THE HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE<br />

69


The<br />

HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE<br />

Now, dear Protector, the muddy truths as to how five distilleries have come out as<br />

kings of the whisky bog. We know their stories, their places, and their people.<br />

Here be their magic, the secrets of their trade. Come, let’s dive in…<br />

How a Laphroaig gets to be a Laphroaig<br />

The key to understanding how Laphroaig gets to taste the way it does lies in the nature<br />

of its whisky-making process, its idiosyncratic traditions and spirited innovations.<br />

Meaning it:<br />

• Uses soft, peated, non-mineralized<br />

water from Loch Kilbride<br />

• Retains 15% of its own floor maltings,<br />

with a phenol spec of 40-60ppm.<br />

The rest it brings in from either Port<br />

Ellen or the mainland, with a phenol<br />

spec of 35-45ppm<br />

• Has its own kiln for drying the malted<br />

barley, at lower temperatures, which<br />

makes for even higher phenol levels<br />

• Exclusively sources its peat from<br />

Glenmachrie peat bog<br />

• Ferments for 55-99 hours<br />

• Makes its first cut at 45 minutes, the<br />

latest in the industry, which accounts<br />

for the lack of grass or green fruits<br />

in Laphroaig<br />

• Possesses seven stills of two different<br />

sizes, meaning that it’s capable of<br />

producing two distillates, which if<br />

married before laying down gives a<br />

third distillate option<br />

• Uses only first-fill ex-bourbon casks<br />

when maturing in American oak,<br />

meaning these casks have only ever<br />

had Bourbon in them<br />

• ‘Double’, ‘Triple’ or ‘Extra’ matures<br />

its spirit in a range of oak and<br />

cask types, including ex-Sherry<br />

puncheons and ex-bourbon quarter<br />

casks – all variations depending on<br />

the expression<br />

• Laphroaig matures its spirit on location<br />

at the distillery, making use of the most<br />

traditional “dunnage” (earth-floor)<br />

warehouses and allowing the sea air<br />

to penetrate the casks<br />

• Laphroaig employs 31 individuals in<br />

Islay. When turning the barley, the<br />

team operates 24/7 in three shifts<br />

• Being next to the sea, the walls of<br />

the nearest warehouses are regularly<br />

struck by waves during winter storms,<br />

and seaweed has to be removed<br />

from the roofs. We are convinced<br />

that its salty remnants have an effect<br />

on the overall taste of Laphroaig<br />

THERE BE, GOOD AND NOBLE<br />

PROTECTOR, THE SECRETS<br />

BEHIND THE LAPHROAIG HO<strong>US</strong>E<br />

TASTE, THE SMELL OF IODINE,<br />

THE PEAT SMOKE, THE SE<strong>AW</strong>EED,<br />

THE TAR AND OIL, THE SWEET<br />

NOTES, THE HEAVIER FRUITS<br />

71<br />

72


Understanding what Makes a Bowmore a Bowmore<br />

Again, the key to understanding what sets a Bowmore apart from its neighbors lies<br />

in its whisky-making process, its location and its people. Thus, Protector, it:<br />

• Sources its water from Laggan<br />

River, using a tried and tested<br />

irrigation system<br />

• Ensures that every grain of its barley<br />

is grown by 16 dedicated farms<br />

in Scotland and shipped from the<br />

mainland. Indeed, it was the first<br />

distillery to establish full traceability<br />

from the field all the way to the bottle<br />

• Continues to malt approximately<br />

20 to 25% of its barley on its<br />

own malt barn floor, believing its<br />

old age methods impart a specific<br />

Bowmore flavor to the barley. The<br />

rest is malted on the mainland by<br />

professional maltsters, Simpsons<br />

• Uses peat sourced from the Laggan<br />

Moss peat banks, with an average<br />

phenol spec of 25ppm, putting<br />

Bowmore in the heavily-peated<br />

bracket, hence the heavy smoke<br />

• Makes its first cut at 35 minutes<br />

(at 74% abv) and the second at 2<br />

hours and 20 minutes (at 61% abv),<br />

capturing both fruit and smoke<br />

• Uses mostly ex-American bourbon<br />

and Spanish sherry casks. Bourbon<br />

casks, as you know Protector, impart<br />

a characteristic vanilla flavor to the<br />

whisky, while sherry casks lend the<br />

maturing spirit a heavier body and<br />

deep amber color. Different types<br />

of cask are used with more limited<br />

edition expressions<br />

• Matures all its single malt at Bowmore.<br />

The reputation of its legendary No.1<br />

Vaults precedes it. Below sea level, it<br />

is the lowest warehouse in Scotland<br />

and very damp, making for excellent<br />

long-maturation conditions<br />

ALL OF WHICH EXPLAINS, PROTECTOR, WHILE ALSO BASED ON ISLAY,<br />

THE MALTY, SMOKY BOWMORE HO<strong>US</strong>E TASTE IS QUITE DIFFERENT FROM<br />

LAPHROAIG’S, BEING MORE AROMATIC AND LESS OBVIO<strong>US</strong>LY PHENOLIC,<br />

AND <strong>US</strong>UALLY CHARACTERIZED BY A MOST HEALTHY DOLLOP OF TROPICAL<br />

FRUITS AND A STRAND OR TWO OF POUCH TOBACCO<br />

73<br />

74


Elaborating on The Ardmore Taste<br />

To know what makes The Ardmore so unique, it’s vital, Protector, that we<br />

remember its original purpose: to give Teacher’s Highland Cream its smoky taste.<br />

Given that legacy, little wonder that The Ardmore house taste is synonymous with an<br />

old style whisky: it is peaty and meaty, and yet, at the same time, fruity and fragrant,<br />

possessing a burnt sweetness on the mouth, lots of spice, leather and vanillas, a long and<br />

full finish. Reasons, Protector, as follows:<br />

• Water sourced from springs in nearby<br />

Knockandy Hills<br />

• The maltings for its peated whiskies<br />

sourced from the north-east mainland<br />

maltsters, which explains its signature<br />

wood-smoke tone. The peat’s sourced<br />

at St Fergus Moss, from the Northern<br />

Peat & Moss Company. The phenol<br />

spec is 12-14ppm, so medium to<br />

heavy peated<br />

• A 53-hour fermentation regime,<br />

responsible for its fruity undertones<br />

• Though no longer direct fire, the<br />

task of giving The Ardmore distillate<br />

that same deep character with steam<br />

coils took seven months of intensive<br />

testing. The first cut is made at 35<br />

minutes, the second once the abv<br />

level has dropped to 60% abv, making<br />

for a big bodied spirit. The shell and<br />

tube condensers, Protector, are run hot<br />

to maximize copper erosion, thereby<br />

mimicking copper contact from the<br />

original coal firing at The Ardmore<br />

• The onion shape of its stills, together<br />

with its downward angled lyne arms,<br />

make for less copper contact, hence<br />

the heavier character of the distillate<br />

• Less concerned with age, the wood<br />

policy focus is all about how to use<br />

different casks to complement the<br />

distillery’s character. Thus the use<br />

of bourbon, sherry, puncheon and<br />

quarter casks, mostly sourced as<br />

either casks or staves from Jim Beam<br />

NOTE PLEASE, PROTECTOR, THAT WHILE DEFINED BY PEAT, THE<br />

ARDMORE ALSO PRODUCES AN UNPEATED WHISKY CALLED ARDLAIR<br />

75<br />

76


Wherefore the Uniqueness of Connemara<br />

Spearheading the peat revival in Ireland, Connemara’s unique Irish-Scot character<br />

comes directly from the merging of two interrelated traditions, be that as a result of<br />

materials used or the way the whiskey is actually made. Specifics include:<br />

• Maltings sourced from Glenesk<br />

Maltings, north-eastern mainland<br />

Scotland. The phenol spec is 15ppm,<br />

so heavily peated<br />

• Double distilled – unlike traditional Irish<br />

Whiskeys which are triple distilled and<br />

typically blends or potstill whiskeys<br />

• The wort is cloudy, making it<br />

quite malty<br />

• Fermentation time is minimum 48 hours,<br />

which though standard, remains quite<br />

short, meaning the wash retains those<br />

initial cereal notes<br />

• The middle cut is broad, beginning<br />

just 20 minutes in and finishing<br />

deep down at 59%, abv, which<br />

accounts for the breadth of flavor<br />

and character of the final spirit,<br />

possessing both light floral notes<br />

and a heavy peatiness<br />

• American white oak ex-Bourbon<br />

barrels are the weapon of choice<br />

when it comes to maturation, though<br />

casks used to mature the spirit are<br />

beginning to be reused, a policy<br />

designed to explore iterations on<br />

the flavor profile<br />

77<br />

78


What Makes Hakushu so Hakushu<br />

If the complexly balanced youthfulness of the green, fresh and vibrant Hakushu house<br />

taste is to be fully understood, Protector, then diversity, craft and location are the key.<br />

Meaning it:<br />

• Uses water sourced from the Ojira<br />

River. A water so pure as to be<br />

designated as ‘most precious’, an<br />

independent government-sponsored<br />

kite mark for Japan’s 100 Most<br />

Precious Waters<br />

• Sources its maltings from Scotland.<br />

Phenol specs will depend on whether<br />

the final whisky is to be light, medium<br />

or heavily peated. The range allows<br />

for the production of different types<br />

of peated malts: light, medium or heavy<br />

• Passes a clear wort on and into<br />

long fermentation times. A range of<br />

distillers and brewer’s yeasts are used,<br />

with fermentation taking place in<br />

wooden washbacks. The length and<br />

temperature of the process is designed<br />

to cultivate lactic bacteria and other<br />

microorganisms, giving rise to a fruity,<br />

creamy wash<br />

• Makes use of a variety of still sizes<br />

and shapes, some with downward<br />

angled lyne arms, some upward<br />

angled, some direct-fired, some<br />

steam heated, and has options to use<br />

shell-and-tube or worm tub when<br />

condensing. The end result, Protector,<br />

is a mightily tweaked set of distillates,<br />

some light, some full-bodied, but all<br />

possessing that same fresh, zest- like<br />

taste so characteristic of Hakushu<br />

• Uses mainly ex-Bourbon casks<br />

converted into hogsheads (230<br />

liters thought the best size cask for<br />

Hakushu’s aging conditions), and<br />

also sherry butts<br />

• Benefits from the specifics of a cool<br />

mountain climate, the temperature<br />

ensuring the potential for long<br />

maturation cycles, with less<br />

wood influence than lower altitude<br />

aging conditions<br />

• May blend several matured<br />

single distillery distillates together,<br />

depending on the desired profile<br />

AGAIN, PROTECTOR, DO NOTE, PLEASE, THAT<br />

HAK<strong>US</strong>HU ALSO MAKES UNPEATED WHISKIES<br />

79<br />

80


Chapter Eight<br />

ENTER THE EXPRESSIONS<br />

81


Enter<br />

THE EXPRESSIONS<br />

So, Protector, to the whiskies themselves: Remember, good friend, our A Taste of<br />

Peat (pages 39-45), which outlined how best to taste peated single malt whisky.<br />

Here below are the tasting notes for the very whiskies you will be sharing: read,<br />

absorb and most of all, Protector, enjoy.<br />

Laphroaig<br />

LAPHROAIG’S<br />

CORE RANGE<br />

• 10 Year Old<br />

• Select<br />

• Quarter Cask<br />

• 25 Year Old<br />

• 32 Year Old<br />

• Lore<br />

• Triple Wood<br />

• Cask Strength<br />

LAPHROAIG SELECT<br />

The name Laphroaig Select, was<br />

chosen by the Friends of Laphroaig,<br />

and takes this name from the special<br />

selection of American and European<br />

casks, chosen for the unique character<br />

they give during maturation.<br />

The inspiration for this global expression<br />

comes from Ian Hunter, the last family<br />

member owner of the distillery, and one<br />

of the first distillers to travel to bourbon<br />

county in the <strong>US</strong>A to identify new sources<br />

of casks that would give him greater<br />

consistency as well as new flavors.<br />

Oloroso sherry butts, straight American<br />

white oak (non-filled with Bourbon), PX<br />

seasoned hogsheads, quarter casks and<br />

finally of course first fill Bourbon Casks<br />

are all used to create Laphroaig Select.<br />

LAPHROAIG 10 YEAR OLD<br />

Best recognized of all the Islay malts –<br />

and for good reason. It has a nose and<br />

taste that deliver a unique measure of<br />

Islay peat smoke, tangy, salt-laden air<br />

and an echo of sweetness at the end. It<br />

has become the gold standard by which<br />

all other Islay malts are judged.<br />

Colour - Sparkling gold<br />

Nose - Huge smoke with<br />

a hint of sweetness<br />

Body - Full<br />

Palate - Peat smoke with<br />

salty undertones and an<br />

echo of sweetness<br />

Finish - Long, powerful, smoky<br />

Colour - A sparkling gold with<br />

layers of color<br />

Nose - Peat first, then ripe red<br />

fruits with a hint of dryness<br />

Body - Full-bodied<br />

Palate - Sweet up front then<br />

classic dry, peaty, ashy flavors<br />

followed by a rich finish<br />

Finish - Long lingering and floral<br />

with marzipan and limes at<br />

the end<br />

83<br />

84


LAPHROAIG TRIPLE WOOD<br />

An extension of the Quarter Cask<br />

expression, special for its triple maturation,<br />

which creates a unique blend of the<br />

signature peat-smoked liquid with softer<br />

notes of fruit and spices.<br />

After a double maturation in American<br />

oak barrels the liquid is transferred to<br />

smaller, 19th century-style European<br />

quarter casks to impart extra depth<br />

and fullness.<br />

This final stage allows for a slow maturation<br />

– all leading to a soft, complex and fully<br />

rounded flavor. When tasted, Triple Wood<br />

begins with a subtle sherry sweetness<br />

before offering up spiciness and nuttiness<br />

and a huge peat flavor.<br />

LAPHROAIG QUARTER CASK<br />

This expression offers an irresistible<br />

doubling of flavor, due to the double<br />

maturation in two barrels made of<br />

American oak.<br />

Still-maturing whisky from standard<br />

ex-Bourbon barrels is transferred to<br />

quarter casks and left to rest in the<br />

warehouse, just a stone’s throw from<br />

the Atlantic shore.<br />

This process represents Laphroaig<br />

breathing new life into a once-defunct<br />

tradition: the use of the smaller<br />

cask size, which ensures increased<br />

contact with the oak, creating a soft<br />

and velvety edge to complement<br />

Laphroaig’s distinctive peatiness.<br />

Colour - Bright gold<br />

Nose - Sweet raisins and creamy<br />

apricots, nutty flavors, bonfire<br />

ash smell of earthy peat<br />

Body - Powerful, yet with a<br />

creamy consistency<br />

Palate - Creamier flavors of<br />

vanilla and fruit with just a<br />

suggestion of sherry sweetness<br />

Finish - Mouth filling and<br />

extremely long, balanced by<br />

the sweet smooth caramel taste<br />

Colour - Full sparkling gold<br />

Nose - Burning embers of peat<br />

in a crofter’s fireplace, hints of<br />

coconut and banana aromas<br />

Body - Full-bodied<br />

Palate - Deep, complex and<br />

smoky yet surprises the palate<br />

with a gentle sweetness<br />

Finish - Really long, and dries<br />

appropriately with smoke<br />

and spice<br />

85<br />

86


LAPHROAIG 25 YEAR OLD<br />

LAPHRAOIG LORE<br />

Rich and deep with distinctive smoke,<br />

peat and seaside minerality, this<br />

expression is unmistakably Laphroaig.<br />

This is a result of liquid being drawn<br />

from a selection of casks including<br />

ex-Bourbon, first-fill sherry butts, smaller<br />

quarter casks and their most precious<br />

stock. This careful process captures the<br />

timeless passion and very essence of the<br />

Laphroaig Distillery.<br />

Colour - Deep mahogany<br />

Nose - Rich and smoky with<br />

seaside minerals followed by<br />

vanilla and oily unroasted<br />

chestnuts and a hint of fudge<br />

with a malty sweetness. A drop<br />

of water adds a creamy clotted<br />

cream note with fruit appearing<br />

in the form of unripe citrus in a<br />

flan glaze<br />

Body - Medium to full<br />

Palate - Richly peaty with a spicy<br />

chili bite<br />

Finish - Short dry finish with a<br />

long, sweet after taste<br />

Laphroaig 25 Year Old has been lovingly<br />

created by marrying Laphroaig matured<br />

in Oloroso sherry casks with Laphroaig<br />

matured in ex-American Bourbon barrels;<br />

both filled with newly distilled Laphroaig<br />

spirit from day one.<br />

When you join the sherried, oaky flavors<br />

from the second fill sherry casks with the<br />

creamy, smooth, sweet flavors from the<br />

bourbon barrels you create the magic<br />

that is Laphroaig 25 Year Old. Bottled<br />

at cask strength, it is a perfect fusion of<br />

two different styles of maturation flavors,<br />

made even smoother by the quarter<br />

century it has been gently maturing.<br />

Colour - Bright red gold<br />

Nose - Sherry sweetness<br />

followed by the time-honored<br />

Islay peat tang. A smooth fruit<br />

ripeness that complements the<br />

tang of salt in the background<br />

Body - Rich, round and full<br />

Palate - An initial burst of<br />

peat restrained by a sherry<br />

sweetness that develops into<br />

spicy apple fruitiness<br />

Finish - Very long and warming,<br />

leaving a distinct tang of Islay<br />

87<br />

88


LAPHROAIG 10 YEAR OLD CASK STRENGTH<br />

LAPHROAIG 32 YEAR OLD<br />

Matured solely in a first-fill ex-Oloroso<br />

cask, the Laphroaig 32 Year Old is<br />

a whisky that has picked up all those<br />

flavours so typical of spirit laid down<br />

in ex-Sherry casks. The dark Christmas<br />

fruits, the nuts and spice, and at the<br />

same time possesses the extraordinary<br />

delicate balance common to old,<br />

excellent whiskies. It’s an extremely<br />

rare and accomplished whisky.<br />

10 Year Cask Strength Laphroaig is<br />

bottled at natural distillery strength<br />

with all the depth of genuine taste<br />

and texture normally associated with<br />

sampling whisky at source.<br />

We mature Laphroaig in seasoned oak<br />

barrels, charred before filling to impart<br />

a slight sweet vanilla nuttiness. Original<br />

Cask Strength Laphroaig is barrierfiltered<br />

only just, to remove the small<br />

char particles present.<br />

In extremes of temperature and when<br />

you add water it may appear a little<br />

cloudy – this is the natural condition of<br />

a malt of such a peaty pungence and<br />

uncompromising purity. Adding a little<br />

water releases a rich aroma of peat<br />

smoke with some sweetness and strong<br />

hints of the sea.<br />

Emphatic, full bodied and utterly<br />

unforgettable – we like to think it’s<br />

the purists choice<br />

Colour - Deep Mahogany<br />

Nose - Reminiscent of a<br />

Christmas fruit cake, the rich,<br />

sherry sweetness and the aroma<br />

of caramelised brown sugar is<br />

predominant. A drop of water<br />

reveals notes of cinnamon<br />

spiced red apples, with just a<br />

hint of bitter dark chocolate<br />

Body - Intense and rich<br />

Palate - The dark, bitter<br />

chocolate follows through to<br />

the palate, with nutmeg and an<br />

intense spicy oakiness. Adding<br />

a touch of water allows sweeter,<br />

sherry flavours to come through,<br />

together with just a hint of salt<br />

tang and subtle peat smoke<br />

Finish - Dry, long and lingering,<br />

sherried oak finish<br />

Colour - Rich deep gold<br />

Nose - Very powerful,<br />

“medicine”, smoke, seaweed<br />

and ozone characters<br />

overlaying a sweetness<br />

Body - Full and strong<br />

Palate - A massive peated burst<br />

of flavour with hints of sweetness<br />

at the end<br />

Finish: Long and savoury<br />

89<br />

90


Connemara<br />

Connemara offers the whiskey connoisseur a unique opportunity to move from Scotland<br />

to Ireland and back with ease. Connemara uses 15 PPM of peat, as opposed to many<br />

Islay Scotches which are more heavily peated. It satisfies both current peated malt<br />

drinkers as well as those who may not be interested in peat just yet. Whisk(e)y drinkers<br />

who may enjoy peated single malt Scotch will be drawn in by the unique smoky quality<br />

of Connemara. Whisk(e)y drinkers who may not think that peated whiskies are to their<br />

liking will be welcomed in by the sweet floral undertones and warm finish, showing<br />

them that peat is not something to be scared of.<br />

CONNEMARA’S<br />

CORE RANGE<br />

• Connemara Original<br />

• Connemara 12<br />

• Connemara Cask Srength<br />

CONNEMARA ORIGINAL<br />

Inspired by Ireland’s ancient distilling<br />

traditions, Connemara is double distilled<br />

from peated malt in two pot stills and<br />

matured in ex-Bourbon American oak<br />

casks. Connemara combines the<br />

smoothness of an Irish whiskey with the<br />

smoky richness normally associated with<br />

many Scottish single malts. Connemara<br />

Original is a combination of 4,6 and 8<br />

year old whiskeys.<br />

Colour - Lightly Golden<br />

Nose - Mild peat, heather<br />

freshness with floral notes,<br />

honeyed sweetness and a<br />

little oak<br />

Body - Full-bodied<br />

Palate - Full and smooth with<br />

notes of malt and peat, honeyed<br />

smoke and barley sweetness<br />

Finish - Long and lingering with<br />

honey and peat smoke<br />

CONNEMARA 12<br />

A medium peated, fruity and smooth<br />

single malt whiskey from the Cooley<br />

Distillery. The 12 years maturation<br />

in American white oak ex-Bourbon<br />

casks gives the consumer the ability to<br />

taste how extra aging brings out more<br />

character from the wood and rounds off<br />

the taste of Connemara Original.<br />

Colour - Pale straw<br />

Nose - Vibrant presence of malt<br />

and peaty smokiness<br />

Body - Mellow and soft with<br />

creamy oils<br />

Palate - Smooth, mix of fruit,<br />

notably green apple and plenty<br />

of warm peat<br />

Finish - Strong spice bite in<br />

harmony with creamy peatiness<br />

CONNEMARA CASK STRENGTH<br />

A medium peated, fruity and smooth<br />

single malt whiskey from the Cooley<br />

Distillery. The 12 years maturation<br />

in American white oak ex-Bourbon<br />

casks gives the consumer the ability to<br />

taste how extra aging brings out more<br />

character from the wood and rounds off<br />

the taste of Connemara Original.<br />

Colour - Pale golden yellow<br />

Nose - Strong and concentrated<br />

smoky peatiness<br />

Body - Mellow and soft with<br />

creamy oils<br />

Palate - Strong aggressive start<br />

with an enormous peat surge<br />

that combines with complex<br />

combination of fruit, peppers<br />

and chocolate<br />

Finish - Astonishingly long<br />

and glorious finish with peat<br />

clinging to every corner of<br />

your mouths<br />

91<br />

92


Bowmore<br />

BOWMORE’S<br />

CORE RANGE<br />

• Small Batch<br />

• 15 Years Old<br />

• 12 Years Old<br />

• 25 Year Old<br />

• 18 Years Old<br />

BOWMORE SMALL BATCH<br />

Exclusively matured in first and second<br />

fill ex-Bourbon casks, then blissfully<br />

married together, Small Batch exhibits<br />

the best qualities of both. First-fill bourbon<br />

offers delicious vanilla sweetness,<br />

subtle spices and bourbon oak smoke<br />

to complement Bowmore’s gentle<br />

peaty smokiness, while the second-fill<br />

cask enhances Bowmore’s fresh fruity<br />

complexity and showcases its trademark<br />

honey and creamy malt character.<br />

Colour - Warm gold<br />

Nose - Vanilla fudge, sea air<br />

and peat smoke, balanced<br />

beautifully by honeycomb and<br />

cinnamon spice<br />

Palate - Mouth-watering citrus,<br />

gentle saltiness and vanilla with<br />

flakes of coconut<br />

Finish - Wispy smoke, Bourbon<br />

vanilla and lime<br />

BOWMORE 15 YEARS OLD<br />

Matured in an inspired combination of<br />

both bourbon and sherry casks, it’s the<br />

final three years spent in Oloroso sherry<br />

casks that gives Bowmore 15 Years Old<br />

‘Darkest’, one of the most beautifully<br />

balanced Bowmores, the rich, deep<br />

colour reflected in its name, and its<br />

warming finish.<br />

Colour - Treacle dark amber<br />

Nose - Delicious dark<br />

chocolate, sun-dried fruits and<br />

a tell-tale wisp of Islay smoke<br />

Palate - Wonderful cedar<br />

wood and rich treacle toffee<br />

Finish - The robust and<br />

complex finish with a hint of<br />

sherry tan<br />

BOWMORE 12 YEARS OLD<br />

Complex yet perfectly balanced, our 12<br />

Years Old reflects the raw essence of<br />

Bowmore - thrashing waves, windswept<br />

landscapes and generations of tradition.<br />

Bowmore 12 Years Old has received<br />

much critical acclaim; the late, great<br />

whisky writer Michael Jackson proclaimed<br />

it “remarkably long and complex”. We<br />

like to think of it as vanilla ice cream at<br />

a beach bonfire.<br />

Colour - Warm amber<br />

Nose - Subtle lemon and honey,<br />

balanced beautifully by Bowmore’s<br />

trademark peaty smokiness<br />

Palate - Sweet and delicious<br />

heather honey and gentle<br />

peat smoke<br />

Finish - Long and mellow<br />

93<br />

94


BOWMORE 18 YEARS OLD<br />

Cosseted away in the finest, hand-selected<br />

oak casks and allowed to mature at its<br />

own sedate pace, this is one of the<br />

most remarkable, perfectly balanced<br />

malts of its kind. One of our rarest most<br />

exceptional bottlings, the stocks of<br />

Bowmore 18 Years Old may be limited<br />

but there’s no end to its enjoyment.<br />

BOWMORE 25 YEARS OLD<br />

A whisky to be savoured slowly, every<br />

delicious drop of this exquisitely balanced<br />

malt has been matured for a quarter of<br />

a century in North American bourbon<br />

and Spanish sherry casks. Exceptional<br />

even by Bowmore’s standards, our highly<br />

acclaimed Bowmore 25 Years Old<br />

exhibits the finest qualities of each.<br />

Colour - Mellow mahogany<br />

Nose - Classic Bowmore<br />

smokiness, perfectly tempered<br />

with creamy caramel, chocolate<br />

and ripe fruit aromas<br />

Palate - Beautiful soft fruit and<br />

chocolate balanced with a light<br />

smokiness - incredibly complex<br />

Finish - The long and<br />

wonderfully balanced finish<br />

Colour - Deep, rich mahogany<br />

Nose - Intense sherry and<br />

stewed fruits, with a trace of<br />

Bowmore smokiness<br />

Palate - Delicious toffee and<br />

hazelnut, woven together with<br />

just a hint of sweet peat smoke<br />

Finish - Mellow, gentle and<br />

incredibly complex<br />

95<br />

96


The Ardmore<br />

THE ARDMORE’S CORE RANGE<br />

• The Ardmore Tradition • The Ardmore Triple Wood<br />

• The Ardmore Legacy • The Ardmore Port Wood Finish<br />

THE ARDMORE TRADITION<br />

The Ardmore Tradition is a taste of<br />

history. Journeying back to a time<br />

when most Highland distilleries dried<br />

their barley with the sweet smoke of<br />

local Highland peat. To a time before<br />

‘chill filtering’ was invented to ‘clarify’<br />

the spirit. To a time when maturation<br />

length and style depended on the skill<br />

of the master blender rather than age<br />

or barrel type. Double matured in oak<br />

barrels then smaller quarter casks,<br />

The Ardmore Tradition is a full and<br />

rich liquid, with unique Highland peat<br />

smoke flavors.<br />

THE ARDMORE LEGACY<br />

The Ardmore Legacy celebrates the<br />

distillery’s unique location on the fringes<br />

of the Highlands, offering a lightly<br />

peated liquid that is sweet and uplifting. It<br />

encapsulates the essence of the Highland<br />

landscape and everything it provides –<br />

pure air, water grain and peat.<br />

With a balance of peated and un-peated<br />

malt, the unique and gentle flavor of The<br />

Ardmore Legacy will not only delight<br />

experienced peated malt drinkers but<br />

inspire newcomers to experience and<br />

love this whisky.<br />

Colour - Light golden<br />

Nose - Light golden<br />

Palate - Creamy vanilla spice<br />

gives way to more overt smoky<br />

charcoal notes, especially<br />

with the addition of water.<br />

Smoke doesn’t dominate and is<br />

balanced by the sweet honey<br />

and spice flavors<br />

Finish - Full-bodied, silky<br />

mouth feel with a (trademark<br />

The Ardmore) dry tangy and<br />

lingering after taste, coupled<br />

with delicious spice notes<br />

Colour - Burnished gold<br />

Nose - At bottle strength (46%),<br />

the influence of both maturations<br />

complement each other producing<br />

a full-bodied smooth aroma<br />

The maturity comes from the<br />

American barrels and the spicy,<br />

creamy nose from the old style<br />

smaller casks<br />

The rich softness linked with<br />

the smooth, slightly dry aroma<br />

is combined with just enough<br />

earthy peat smoke to avoid being<br />

overpowering<br />

Palate - The full rich flavors burst<br />

and fill the mouth with a creamy<br />

peat tang and a touch of vanilla’s<br />

soft gentleness<br />

If a touch of water is added, then<br />

the flavours increase with the<br />

addition of a sweet ripe fruit start<br />

followed by a tang of peat<br />

Finish - Full, succulent and<br />

quite long<br />

NOT AVAILABLE<br />

IN THE <strong>US</strong>A<br />

97<br />

98


THE ARDMORE TRIPLE WOOD<br />

The Ardmore Triple Wood is triple<br />

matured in American oak barrels, quarter<br />

casks and puncheons. 100% peated and<br />

at 46% ABV, Triple Wood is light and<br />

sweet, with the trademark Highland peat<br />

smoke notes. The original single malt<br />

from The Ardmore distillery, Triple Wood<br />

is a complex and rewarding Highland<br />

malt that continues to be awarded year<br />

after year.<br />

THE ARDMORE PORTWOOD FINISH<br />

Double cask matured in American white<br />

oak bourbon barrels and European half<br />

port pipes, resulting in a liquid that is<br />

light and sweet with a balance of fruity,<br />

smoky notes. Non-chill filtered and<br />

aged for 12 years, this extraordinary<br />

ruby gold single malt has been made<br />

using the same traditional distilling<br />

methods for 100 years.<br />

Colour - Golden straw, natural<br />

honey (at Cask Strength)<br />

Nose - Biscuit-y cereal notes and<br />

the scent of banana underlie<br />

the initial nose of ginger, burnt<br />

sugar, cherries and honey. A<br />

drop of water intensifies the<br />

ginger snap biscuit notes with<br />

a hint of cinnamon, and soft<br />

highland peat smoke<br />

Palate - Light caramelized<br />

sugar, toasted barley, and<br />

warming, light peat smoke<br />

are followed by sweet vanilla<br />

custard. Water releases notes<br />

of pink peppercorn, and dried<br />

fruit flavors (raisin and candied<br />

orange peel)<br />

Finish - Light with soft peat<br />

smoke, lingering pepper and<br />

toasted almonds with a wellbalanced<br />

dry mouth feel<br />

Colour - Ruby gold<br />

Nose - Initial nose<br />

of strawberries and summer<br />

fruits with a hint of pepper.<br />

Notes of burnt orange and<br />

cinnamon spice underlie. With<br />

water, the rich fruit aromas<br />

of red apple and cranberry<br />

intensify, accompanied by<br />

sweet honey and subtle spiced<br />

wood notes<br />

Palate - Sweet red apple and<br />

honey with the subtlest hint of<br />

charcoal smoke<br />

Finish - Initially smooth with<br />

a long, lingering finish<br />

culminating in the trademark<br />

The Ardmore dryness<br />

NOT AVAILABLE<br />

IN THE <strong>US</strong>A<br />

NOT AVAILABLE<br />

IN THE <strong>US</strong>A<br />

99<br />

100


Hakushu<br />

HAK<strong>US</strong>HU’S CORE RANGE<br />

• Hakushu 12 Years Old<br />

• Hakushu 18 Year Old<br />

HAK<strong>US</strong>HU 12 YEARS OLD<br />

Green with herbal notes.<br />

HAK<strong>US</strong>HU 18 YEARS OLD<br />

Fresh, deep aroma from long maturation.<br />

Complex and rich sweetness with a<br />

pleasant woodsy aroma.<br />

Colour - Champagne gold<br />

Nose - Basil, pine needle,<br />

green apple<br />

Palate - Sweet pear, mint, kiwi<br />

Finish - Green tea, subtle smoke<br />

Colour - Deep gold<br />

Nose - Ripe pear, dried mint,<br />

oregano, hint of smoke<br />

Palate - Jasmine, mango,<br />

quince, menthol<br />

Finish - Long, pleasantly<br />

smoked, hint of bitterness<br />

101<br />

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Maya Rubalcaba<br />

SCOTCH & JAPANESE WHISKY<br />

SR. BRAND MANAGER - <strong>US</strong><br />

Simon Brooking<br />

MASTER AMBASSADOR<br />

maya.rubalcaba@beamsuntory.com<br />

847-444-7131<br />

simon.brooking@beamsuntory.com<br />

917-721-6073<br />

Kelly Georgetti<br />

WORLD WHISKIES & LUXURY<br />

LIFESTYLE BRANDS - DIRECTOR,<br />

COMMERCIAL MARKETING<br />

Caitlin Rannells<br />

SCOTCH & JAPANESE WHISKY -<br />

COMMERCIAL MARKETING MANAGER<br />

Kelly.Georgetti@beamsuntory.com<br />

847-612-6706<br />

Caitlin.Rannells@beamsuntory.com<br />

847.444.7580<br />

Gail Hansche<br />

SR. MANAGER, DIGITAL STRATEGY<br />

Natalie Salum<br />

SOCIAL CONTENT SPECIALIST<br />

Gail.Hansche@beamsuntory.com<br />

847-444-7516<br />

Natalie.Salim@beamsuntory.com<br />

847-444-7732<br />

Erin Jervis<br />

SR. PUBLIC RELATIONS MANAGER<br />

Erin.Jevis@beamsuntory.com<br />

847.444.7795


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

104<br />

105


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

106<br />

107


Your<br />

NOTES<br />

Your<br />

NOTES<br />

108<br />

109


Appendix


Master ambassador market visits: how to win<br />

One of the most effective sales tools available to Beam in the field is a market visit<br />

from our Master Ambassadors. When requesting Adam Harris, Dan Tullio, Simon<br />

Brooking or Bobby Gleason, a lot happens behind the scenes before the visit can be<br />

confirmed. Not only are you requesting time and effort but you are also requesting<br />

the commitment of valuable budget dollars to visit your market. The question then<br />

begs asking, “How can I best utilize a market visit to make it worth the investment of<br />

resources for everyone involved”?<br />

First of all, a one-off event request is a big red flag. Flying in to conduct a small<br />

sized consumer dinner, or to only present at one distributor meeting is not the best use<br />

of our Ambassador’s skill set - not to mention budgetary dollars. Many times the same<br />

end can be accomplished by an experienced or Gold Accredited Beam team<br />

member from the local marketplace.<br />

IN ORDER TO PLAN OUT A<br />

SUCCESSFUL AND IMPACTFUL<br />

AMBASSADOR VISIT LET’S<br />

LOOK AT SOME OF THEIR<br />

BASIC KPIS<br />

• Cases sold in top accounts<br />

both on & off<br />

• New points of distribution in<br />

top accounts both on & off<br />

• New menu placements<br />

• Permanent cocktail menus<br />

• Whisk(e)y lists<br />

• By the glass lists<br />

• Staff trainings in top<br />

accounts both on & off<br />

• Consumer and trade<br />

impressions made<br />

• Features in local media outlets<br />

Knowing this, it is very easy to activate<br />

these in a way that will ladder up to<br />

the goals in your market, region and<br />

division. When you recap the visit,<br />

these are the goals that need to be<br />

quantified. A recap is mandatory and<br />

should be completed within two weeks<br />

of your visit.<br />

So, let’s say you do get a request from<br />

a top account or organization asking<br />

for a Master Ambassador to present on<br />

a particular category at a function. First<br />

ask, “Do we have enough lead time to<br />

build, promote and execute an effective<br />

program” and next, “can we use the<br />

opportunity to leverage new business in<br />

distribution or volume”? If the answers<br />

are yes & yes then reference the Master<br />

Ambassador Activity & Travel Calendar<br />

to check for availability.<br />

Once you are fully aware of the KPIs listed above and have secured the dates on<br />

the calendar, you and the visiting Master Ambassador can work together to activate<br />

toward local initiatives over a two to three day period and really make a difference<br />

together. Examples of proven, effective activities are:<br />

Distributor relations<br />

• Divisional trainings<br />

• Presenting at a GSM when possible<br />

• Meet and greet lunches or happy hours<br />

Key Off premise relations<br />

• Staff trainings<br />

• Entire store staffs<br />

• Key regional management<br />

• Consumer classes and tastings<br />

• Bottle signings when applicable<br />

• Conduct tasting to help select a<br />

Single Barrel when applicable<br />

Key On premise relations<br />

• Staff trainings<br />

• Top whisk(e)y accounts in market<br />

• Top cocktail accounts in market<br />

Conduct tasting to help select a Single<br />

Barrel when applicable<br />

Key Trade relations<br />

• <strong>US</strong>BG presentations<br />

• Classroom setting<br />

• Meet and greet events<br />

Lunches, happy hours, dinners<br />

Top whisk(e)y and cocktail accounts<br />

in market<br />

• Owners<br />

• Beverage directors<br />

• Head bartenders and influencers<br />

Large trade events in market<br />

Large format trade shows (i.e. Whisk(e)y<br />

Fests, cocktail weeks)<br />

Key Consumer relations<br />

• Tastings<br />

• Classroom settings<br />

• On & off premise<br />

• Lunches, happy hours, dinners<br />

• Hosted in top whisk(e)y and/or<br />

cocktail accounts<br />

• Large format trade shows (i.e.<br />

Whisk(e)y Fests, cocktail weeks)<br />

• Large community events<br />

• Large charity events<br />

• Whisk(e)y Clubs – Friends of Laphroaig<br />

Key Media opportunities<br />

• Promote relevant event or endorse<br />

new product launch<br />

• Local print/digital<br />

• Local radio<br />

• Local TV<br />

• Social media<br />

With enough advance notice, due<br />

diligence and effective communication,<br />

working with our Master Ambassadors<br />

should be fun, educational and<br />

beneficial. Reviewing your local needs<br />

and collaborating together on goals and<br />

opportunities will help maximize your<br />

visit to offer the best possible experience<br />

for you, your customers and our business<br />

together at Beam.<br />

112<br />

113


Ambassador biography<br />

Event Checklist<br />

MASTER AMBASSADOR<br />

SIMON’S STORY<br />

“World peace thro’ whisky, one dram at a time.”<br />

PLANNING YOUR EVENT<br />

All event details should be confirmed 4–6 weeks from the actual event date. Advance<br />

notice is very important; it allows the team time to maximize public relations efforts<br />

and brand specific opportunities.<br />

Born in Edinburgh, Scotland, and a member of the Robertson Clan, Simon Brooking<br />

traces his roots back to the 13th century and the Celtic Earls of Atholl. A well-known<br />

expert on Scotch whisky, Simon has worked for many of the leading Scotch distilleries,<br />

learning the art and science of distilling from the world’s foremost master distillers<br />

and blenders.<br />

Since 1996, Simon has led thousands of Scotch whisky tastings for consumers, bartenders<br />

and social organizations. Both informative and entertaining, his presentations have made<br />

him an in-demand speaker and spokesperson.<br />

Simon’s love of Scotland’s Highlands and Islands has paved the way to his present position<br />

as Beam Suntory’s Master Ambassador for Laphroaig ® and The Ardmore ® Single Malt<br />

Scotch Whiskies.<br />

• Event title<br />

• Date<br />

• Time<br />

• Location<br />

• Cost (if any)<br />

EVENT DETAILS INCLUDE:<br />

• RSVP contact (if required)<br />

• Maximum number who<br />

can attend<br />

• Expressions being<br />

sampled/offered<br />

MAXIMIZING SIMON’S VISITS IN MARKET<br />

Leveraging Master Ambassador Simon Brooking to local media will not only help create<br />

added visibility for the brands, but will also help stimulate trial among key influencers.<br />

To maximize media opportunities for Simon, be sure to allow enough time for reporters to<br />

clear their schedules. In general, phone and e-mail media relations should take place at<br />

least two weeks in advance, allowing ample time for pre-publicity as well as one-on-one<br />

interviews for Simon while in market.<br />

Media contacts should include spirits, lifestyle and food/ beverage reporters for print<br />

and broadcast and online media and bloggers.<br />

The PR team will notify you at least two to three weeks in advance of the visit to<br />

review media plans and discuss local contacts you may have. Our PR team is highly<br />

involved with Laphroaig, particularly with PoP markets. It is important you share<br />

your calendar with the team so, if possible, interviews can be arranged to support<br />

your activities.<br />

Also, be sure to confirm the event on Simon Brooking’s schedule with the activation center.<br />

Upon confirmation of all event details, inform the brand and activation teams of the<br />

event. From there, the brand team will work with the creative agency to create e-mail<br />

copy and deploy the e-mail to mailing lists (or selected FoL for Laphroaig specific events).<br />

• Event invitations will be deployed two weeks out from the event date, and absolutely<br />

no later than one week out if urgent.<br />

• If RSVP is required, e-mails must be deployed at least two weeks out<br />

• RSVP list will be managed using one of the predetermined RSVP e-mail accounts or<br />

by the local account. Do NOT use a Beam Suntory e-mail address as an RSVP<br />

Media materials are available upon request.<br />

114<br />

115


EVENT PLANNING TIMELINE<br />

with a drink of Hakushu ®<br />

• Remind your guests to spit out after<br />

Checked? TASK: PRE EVENT<br />

Stage Week leading up to event: 6 5 4 3 2 1<br />

Live<br />

Event<br />

Printed and posted legal wavers for usage of photos on digital media<br />

Share confirmed event<br />

1 details with brand and<br />

activation teams<br />

POS<br />

2<br />

Confirm event with the<br />

Glassware (snifters, small wine glasses or other bulb-shaped<br />

activation centre<br />

glassware); Covers for glasses<br />

Tasting equipment: spit cup, cocktail napkin, water glass, tasting<br />

3<br />

Event invitations sent<br />

mat, pitcher for water (or bottles), unflavoured crackers notepad<br />

(requiring RSVP)<br />

and pen<br />

Event invitations sent<br />

*<br />

Checked sampling regulations (vary by state) - Consult your<br />

4 (general) *sent 1 week<br />

before if urgent<br />

Industry Affairs representative for state-specific guidelines<br />

Assure all guests/participants are 21 years of age or older<br />

GLASSWARE, SETUP & TASTING AT TASTING EVENTS<br />

• Use snifters, small wine glasses or<br />

Branded merchandise for attendees<br />

other bulb-shaped glassware that<br />

REMEMBER:<br />

concentrate the aromas<br />

TASK: POST EVENT<br />

• Swirling the glass before nosing will<br />

coat the rim, where the aromas will be<br />

most easily detected<br />

• Sampling regulations vary by<br />

state. Consult your Industry<br />

Twitter and Facebook attendees posts promoted<br />

• Use covers on glasses to keep the aromas<br />

Affairs representative form<br />

state-specific guidelines<br />

from escaping during your presentation<br />

• Assure all guests/participants<br />

Completee Event Recap presentation (within two weeks of your visit)<br />

• Provide a spit cup, cocktail napkin, water<br />

are 21 years of age or older<br />

glass, tasting mat, notepad and pen for<br />

every guest<br />

• Provide one pitcher of water for every<br />

two guests or one bottle of water for<br />

each guest<br />

• Provide unflavored crackers to help<br />

cleanse the pallet between samplings<br />

RESPONSIBLE TASTING<br />

• Be sure to end the tasting with<br />

a traditional toast!: Scottish<br />

and Irish ‘sláinte’ (pronounced<br />

“slange”) with a dram of<br />

Laphroaig ® , Bowmore ® , The<br />

Ardmore or Connemara ®<br />

• Japanese “kanpai”<br />

(pronounced “gahn-pie”)<br />

each taste<br />

116<br />

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Example events<br />

Post-event reporting<br />

Here are just a few Laphroaig events that were successful. Feel free to be creative – we’re<br />

always looking for new events!<br />

After each event, you will fill out a pdf form about the event with pictures.<br />

• Laphroaig ® dinner, with each course prepared with one of<br />

the Laphroaig expressions<br />

• Laphroaig ® and chocolate pairings<br />

• Curling events<br />

• Scottish holiday events:<br />

• Bobby Burns Night: January 25<br />

• Tartan Day: April 6<br />

• St. Andrew’s Day: November 30<br />

• Other events:<br />

• Fishing trip / Laphroaig smoking in Seattle<br />

• Bridge walk and tasting in San Francisco<br />

• Culinary shows featuring Laphroaig and Scotch tasting<br />

• Highland Games in New Hampshire<br />

• Kilt Walk in Seattle<br />

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Post-event reporting<br />

Protectors of the Peat Objectives<br />

At least 4 weeks before an event, you should submit a request for your email<br />

invitation/promotion. Once form is complete, please submit by email to the<br />

contacts listed on the form.<br />

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