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Bold City Best 2016

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SEPTEMBER 18, <strong>2016</strong> THE TIMES-UNION • 21<br />

A crowd pleaser, the<br />

Buratta Caprese appetizer<br />

is loaded with mozzarella<br />

buratta with marinated<br />

heirloom tomatoes, basil<br />

and prosciutto on grilled<br />

Ciabatta bread. The<br />

refreshing Dillon's Cup<br />

is a great cocktail to sip<br />

while enjoying this Taverna<br />

favorite. Dillon’s Cup is made<br />

with Dillon's Gin, Pimm's No.<br />

1, cucumber, lemon juice,<br />

ginger syrup and soda. The<br />

drink is a tribute to Sam and<br />

Kiley's son, Dillon.<br />

Young and old alike enjoy<br />

the Soppressata Pizza. The<br />

fragrant dish is made with<br />

Italian dry salami, house-made<br />

mozzarella and San Marzano<br />

tomatoes, and then topped<br />

with a fried egg. For the adults,<br />

Kiley recommends pairing<br />

the pizza with Feudi Di San<br />

Gregorio "Rubrato," Aglianico,<br />

a full bodied red wine from<br />

the Campania region of Italy.<br />

A region of Italy that the<br />

style of pizza Taverna serves<br />

(Neapolitan) originates from.<br />

By Jacqueline Persandi<br />

jacqueline.persandi@jacksonville.com<br />

Located in historic San Macro,<br />

Taverna is the culmination<br />

of executive chef and owner<br />

Sam Efron and his wife, wine<br />

director and owner, Kiley Wynne<br />

Efron’s culinary experience. The duo<br />

focuses on creating dishes that utilize<br />

fresh, homemade and locally sourced<br />

ingredients whenever possible while<br />

providing a relaxed yet sophisticated<br />

experience.<br />

“With the food, the drinks and<br />

everything we do, it’s just simplicity<br />

done right,” Sam said.<br />

It’s clear this philosophy agrees with<br />

the <strong>Bold</strong> <strong>City</strong>’s palate. In this year’s<br />

<strong>Bold</strong> <strong>City</strong> <strong>Best</strong> contest, Taverna cleaned<br />

up the competition by taking home<br />

five awards, including <strong>Best</strong> Restaurant<br />

Overall. Chef Sam claimed the title of<br />

“<strong>Best</strong> Chef” for the second year in a<br />

row.<br />

With its casual approach to fine<br />

dining, Taverna has earned many<br />

accolades since it opened in 2009. This<br />

comes as no surprise as Sam and Kiley<br />

were no strangers to the kitchen when<br />

they created the concept.<br />

Kiley fell in love with Italian wine<br />

and cuisine while working in San<br />

Francisco at A16, an internationally<br />

recognized southern Italian restaurant<br />

with locations in Tokyo and other parts<br />

of the world.<br />

Originally from Jacksonville, Sam<br />

attended Culinary Institute of America<br />

and refined his skills while working<br />

at well-known restaurants, including<br />

Gramercy Tavern and Four Seasons<br />

Hotel in New York. He also spent time<br />

at Aqua and Silks at The Mandarin<br />

Oriental Hotel in San Francisco before<br />

moving back to Northeast Florida in<br />

2007.<br />

Long before plans to open Taverna<br />

came together, Sam had his eye on the<br />

location in San Marco Square.<br />

“He had always loved this space<br />

ever since he was in high school,” Kiley<br />

said.<br />

“I always thought this would be the<br />

perfect spot for a restaurant,” Sam said.<br />

Sam and Kiley relocated to San<br />

Marco with hopes to be part of the<br />

emerging food scene.<br />

“We felt like there was a real<br />

opportunity for growth,” Kiley said.<br />

“We also knew it would be a great<br />

place to start a family and build a life<br />

together.”<br />

When creating the original look and<br />

feel of the restaurant, Sam and Kiley<br />

drew inspiration from their time in San<br />

Francisco and New York.<br />

“We wanted to [model after] those<br />

cool, urban but warm neighborhood<br />

places we loved so much,” Kiley<br />

said. “We wanted to have a feeling of<br />

sophistication, but we wanted it to be<br />

really warm and really engaging.”<br />

Taverna offers a high-class<br />

experience without feeling stuffy.<br />

Whether patrons order a quick<br />

lunch at the counter, sit down for an<br />

anniversary meal, or grab a bite with<br />

the kids on the weekend, weathered<br />

barn wood gives the space an elegant<br />

and inviting feel.<br />

While the menu offers a little bit of<br />

everything from handmade pastas and<br />

pizzas to seafood entrees, it’s simple<br />

enough not to overwhelm first-timers.<br />

For the Efrons, keeping flavors fresh<br />

and fun is a priority, but they’re also<br />

committed to creating a consistent<br />

experience year after year.<br />

“While we change things seasonally,<br />

we want to make sure that when you’re<br />

coming on year one to year three that if<br />

you have pasta you like, it’s still on the<br />

menu and it’s made consistent,” Kiley<br />

said.<br />

The menu changes about eight times<br />

a year to feature fresh ingredients in<br />

their peak season.<br />

“When tomatoes are getting ripe,<br />

we’re going to show off more heirloom<br />

tomatoes,” Sam said.<br />

Although the menu is always<br />

evolving, some recipes are staples like<br />

the handmade fettuccini with tomato<br />

cream sauce and fresh basil. The dish<br />

is one of the restaurant’s best-sellers,<br />

and for good reason. The creamy sauce<br />

and pasta can be upgraded with choice<br />

of chicken, shrimp, scallops, fish or<br />

steak, or enjoyed as is. Although the<br />

food is Italian-inspired, the dishes<br />

aren’t greasy or overly heavy. Instead,<br />

they aim to satisfy. The menu also<br />

offers a variety of gluten-free items.<br />

“When you’re doing Italian right, the<br />

way it should be, it’s actually very light<br />

and lean,” Kiley said. “You’re cooking<br />

with olive oil, fresh spices [and] the<br />

best ingredients you can find.”<br />

Taverna offers craft cocktails that<br />

mirror the food by using only a few of<br />

the best ingredients to let the flavors<br />

shine. The menu starts with classic<br />

craft cocktails and puts a spin on<br />

each drink to create a beverage that’s<br />

balanced and compliments the fare.<br />

Sam’s favorite cocktail, the Dillion’s<br />

Cup, uses Dillon’s Gin, Pimm’s No.1,<br />

cucumber, lemon juice, house-made<br />

ginger syrup and soda. The flavors<br />

come together to create a light,<br />

refreshing cocktail that can be enjoyed<br />

any time of year.<br />

When it comes to wines, Kiley<br />

wanted to showcase a list that has a<br />

little something for everyone.<br />

“I picked really eclectic wines from<br />

all around the world with a focus on<br />

Italy,” Kiley said. “We tried to make<br />

the list playful. There’s a really diverse<br />

price point. This is not a list you have to<br />

spend a lot of money on to get a really<br />

great product from. You can spend $30<br />

and get a really amazing, fun bottle<br />

from Italy or Greece, or you can spend<br />

$80 — either way you’re assured the<br />

quality is really good.”<br />

As for working together, the couple<br />

wouldn’t have it any other way.<br />

“We both complement the business<br />

in different ways. We both have our<br />

strengths and weaknesses, and they<br />

make up for where the other person’s<br />

is,” Kiley said. “There are areas of<br />

the business that are definitely more<br />

[Sam’s] train, and areas that are<br />

definitely more mine. I think that<br />

we see eye-to-eye on the overall<br />

philosophy of how we want to run our<br />

staff and our business.”<br />

Again, at Taverna, it’s all about<br />

balance.<br />

Taverna<br />

1986 San Marco Blvd., Jacksonville 32207<br />

(904) 398-3005<br />

taverna.restaurant<br />

Facebook.com/TavernaSanMarco<br />

@tavernasanmarco

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