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Singer W659 - English - User Manual

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for your<br />

-TQ USE<br />

i’- 0<br />

71-<br />

AND<br />

tI<br />

- C 14 I N


clamp screw and insert the<br />

needle up into the needle<br />

clamp, as far as it will go,<br />

with its flat surface to the<br />

I. CORRECT SEWING POSTURE<br />

right ; then retighten the clamp screw.<br />

\ [ -NFIDJF<br />

NFifl.K .j’j<br />

lot .:<br />

Fig. 2<br />

CONTENTS<br />

The correct sewing posture is valuable 1)0th for the sake of efliciency<br />

and for health.<br />

Sit naturally without bending over too far.<br />

1.<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

.1.<br />

5.<br />

6.<br />

7.<br />

8.<br />

9.<br />

10.<br />

11.<br />

12.<br />

13.<br />

14.<br />

15.<br />

16.<br />

17.<br />

18.<br />

19.<br />

20.<br />

21<br />

22.<br />

23.<br />

21.<br />

C rrect Sewing Posture<br />

Operation of hand Wheel<br />

1)isengaging The Sewing Mechanism<br />

Page<br />

Se ting The Needle Properly 1<br />

L.Jper Threading 2<br />

Thread Cutter In Face Plate 3<br />

To Adjust The Pressure On the Material 3<br />

To Remove The Bobbin Case And Bobbin 4<br />

To Wind The Bobbin 4<br />

To Insert The Bobbin Into The Bobbin Case 5<br />

To Replace The Bobbin Case 6<br />

Dn wing Up The Under Thread 7<br />

Be inning A Seam<br />

Fin shing A Seam 7<br />

To Regulate Tension 8<br />

Relative Sizes of Needle And Threads 0<br />

Regulating Length of Stitch l()<br />

I)rop Feed Adjustment<br />

Turning A Corner II<br />

To Sew Jersey Or Bias Seams 11<br />

(leaning A iid Oiling The Machine 12<br />

Che k List For Smooth Sewing 13<br />

Light i<br />

Operating The Machine With Electric Motor<br />

It is important to have the center of the body exactly in front of<br />

the needle bar when sewing.<br />

2. OPERATION OF HAND WHEEL<br />

Be sure that the balance wheel always<br />

turns toward you no matter whether<br />

it is driven by a motor or revolved by<br />

hand.<br />

3. DISENGAGING THE SEWING MEChANISM (See Fig. 1)<br />

There is a clutch nut in the center of the hand wheel as shown in<br />

Fig. 1. Turning this device allows the wheel to run free so that<br />

bobbins may be wound without operating the sewing mechanism.<br />

To disengage the wheel, hold it with the left hand, and with the<br />

right hand turn the clutch nut toward you. In return machine to<br />

sewing operation, hold the wheel and tighten the clutch nut by<br />

turning away from you or clockwise.<br />

Turn the balance wheel<br />

toward you until the needle<br />

bar rises to the highest<br />

point. Loosen the needle<br />

4. SETTiNG THE NEEDLE PROPERLY<br />

NEKDI .E DAN -i1hi<br />

I 1...— NLiJ i:<br />

‘I<br />

rL<br />

-‘<br />

( AM P .. FLAT<br />

‘IIiHEAI) (;UANI) \,J ScttKW StJRFAc<br />

NEEDLE<br />

II (LAMP


5. UPPER THREADING (See Figs. 3, 4 and 5)<br />

6. ThREAD CUTTER IN FACE PLATE (See Fig. 3)<br />

Turn the balance wheel toward you until the needle is all the way up.<br />

.<br />

Place the spool of thread on<br />

the spooi pin (I), (which is<br />

hinged on the top of the arm<br />

and is leveled when not in use),<br />

draw the thread toward the<br />

upper thread guide (2), down<br />

and around from back to front<br />

between tension discs (3), up<br />

to the back of the L-shaped<br />

thread guard (4), down into<br />

the hook of the thread take-up<br />

spring (5), and over through<br />

the slot between the round<br />

face plate cover (6) and the<br />

face plate (8), from back to<br />

front, allowing the thread to<br />

fall in place over the take-up discs, pass the thread clockwise around<br />

the thread-return guide (9), and over through the same slot from<br />

front to back, allowing the thread to fall in place over the take-up<br />

discs. Pass he thread<br />

down through the<br />

eyelet (ho), on the face<br />

plate (8), aid into the<br />

lii read guh ie (II), at<br />

the lower tOLl of the<br />

needle ha r, then from<br />

left In i-ight lb rough<br />

the eye (I }), of the<br />

need he, le:ving I lie -<br />

-<br />

A thread cutter (7), (Fig. 3) is fixed to the face plate cover (6), (Fig. ),<br />

so that winding of thread on the rotary discs is prevented in the<br />

event of thread breakage. Take out severed thread by removing<br />

the cover as shown in Fig. 3.<br />

7. TO ADJUST THE PRESSURE ON TIlE MATERIAL<br />

It is necessary to adjust the pressure on the presser foot according<br />

to the fabric to l)e sewn. It should be heavy enough to prevent the<br />

material froni rising with the needle but still enable the work to<br />

feed along smoothly. The heavier the material is, the more pressure<br />

is required. Fine materials such as thin silk require only a light<br />

pressure. Pressure adjustment is made very conveniently with this<br />

machine. To release pressure completely for darning, press down<br />

on the outer rim of the cap, and the center pin will pop up- 10<br />

readjust pressure suitable to different weight fabrics, press center<br />

pin down until proper pressure is obtained.<br />

Ig. 6 Fig. 7<br />

cuLl of the thread 3 -<br />

oi I inches long.


TIlE BOBBIN CASE<br />

—5—<br />

8. TO REMOVE TIlE BOBBIN CASE AND BOBBIN<br />

Turn the ha ance wheel toward you until the needle bar is at its<br />

highest poin . Flip open the hinged cover<br />

plate in the bed of the machine so that<br />

the under Lb reading can be seen. Grasp<br />

the hinged I itch of the bobbin case (See<br />

Fig. 8) and withdraw the bobbin case.<br />

While the Ia ch is held open, the bobbin<br />

is retaine(l n the bobbin case and will<br />

not drop out. On releasing the latch and<br />

turning the bobbin case downward, the<br />

bobbin will drop out. If the bobbin case<br />

‘ 8<br />

is forcibly removed when the needle bar is down, thus bending the<br />

needle or damaging the hole of the bobbin, it will cause trouble<br />

and un pair lie working of the machine.<br />

Fig. to Fig. ii<br />

uneven stitch. In case the thread winds to one side of the bobbin,<br />

loosen the tension bracket screw and adjust the setting. (See Fig. Ii)<br />

10. TO INSERT TIlE BOBBIN INTO<br />

9. [‘0 WIND TIlE BOBBIN (See Figs. 9, 10 and 11)<br />

Turn the clutch nut toward you and<br />

place a spool of thread on the spool<br />

pin at the base of the machine, draw<br />

the thread under and between the bobS<br />

bin winder tension discs (1) and up.<br />

Insert end of thread through a hole in<br />

bobbin and place bobbin on spindle (2),<br />

Fig. 10, making sure the wire spring<br />

of the spindle<br />

F<br />

fits into the<br />

g.<br />

notch of the<br />

9<br />

bobbin. Press the stop latch (3) with<br />

thumb, and he rubber ring (5) will come in contact with the balance<br />

wheel as th guide (4) contacts the bobbin.<br />

Hold onto the thread end for a few turns and start machine slowly.<br />

\Vhen the bobbin is filled the winder pulley is automatically released<br />

[ruin (he hind wheel. A correctly wound bobbin will ensure a<br />

smoot lily iii ming thread from the shuttle and will l)revent an<br />

I’ig. 14<br />

After winding the bobbin, hold it between the thumb and forefinger<br />

of right hand, thread leading on top from the left toward the<br />

right.<br />

With the left hand hold the bobbin case with its slot up, and place<br />

— 4<br />

-—


12. DRAWING UP THE LJNDEIt<br />

TIl READ<br />

With the left hand hold the end of the<br />

needle thread loosely, turn the hand<br />

wheel lightly toward you with the right<br />

hand until the needle goes down afl(i<br />

up again to its highest point, thus<br />

catching the under thread. Then, draw<br />

up the needle thread you are holding,<br />

and you will see the under thread<br />

plate Lay both threads back under the presser foot I1)Out 2 inches.<br />

13. BEGINNING A SEAM<br />

Raise the needle bar to its highest point. You can be sure it is iii<br />

the correct position when the color in the tiny window on the<br />

face plate is white, not red. Place the edge of cloth to be stitched<br />

just far enough under the presser foot so that the first stitch may<br />

be taken in the material. Then, lower the presser foot upon it and<br />

start sewing by turning the hand wheel toward you.<br />

Fig. 17<br />

Fig. 17. Always leave the<br />

end of the thread 3 or 4 inches long to prevent its pulling through<br />

the needle when you start sewing the next seam.<br />

—6— —7—<br />

the bobbin uto it. See Fig. 12. Then, draw the thread into the slot<br />

in the edge of the bobbin case, pull (lOWfl under the tension spring<br />

See Fig. 1 1) and into its delivery eye at the top of the tension<br />

spring. See Fig. 14.<br />

11. TO REPLACE TIlE BOBBIN CASE<br />

Raise the n. edle bar to its highest point and open the hinged cover<br />

plate. 1101(1 the hinged latch of bobbin case between thumb and<br />

foreliiiger ol the left hand and insert the bobbin case onto the center<br />

stud of the shuttle, fitting the tongue into the notch at the tol) of<br />

Fig.<br />

coming up with the upper thread<br />

through the needle hole in the needle<br />

Fig. 15<br />

14. FINIShING A SEAM<br />

the shuttle i ace. Release the latch anti ires the bobbin case until<br />

the latch cal ches the groove near the end of stud. if the bobbin<br />

case is plated incorrectly, it will cause trouble such as needle<br />

breaking, ta ogling of thread, etc. Always BE SURE the bobbin case<br />

tongue is co rectly fitted into the notch of the shuttle race.<br />

When you have finished a seani, turn<br />

hand wheel toward you until the needle<br />

bar is at the highest point. Raise the<br />

presser foot. Then, move the material<br />

straight back, far enough to cut the<br />

upper and under threads with the<br />

thread cutter attached to the presser<br />

bar. Hold the thread with both hands<br />

and cut with a quick down motion. See


Mediuni—heavy drapery fib—<br />

nc, velveteen, suiting, felt,<br />

Needle<br />

No.<br />

0<br />

00<br />

Machine Silk<br />

Stitches<br />

Culton Mercerized<br />

‘l’hread ‘l’hread<br />

or<br />

Per loch Nylon<br />

6 10<br />

4 to to<br />

8 30<br />

8 30<br />

3 to I to<br />

10 40<br />

II) j 40<br />

2 tu to<br />

12 60<br />

to<br />

14<br />

to<br />

16<br />

llast ic<br />

Filoi 8<br />

to ID;<br />

16<br />

to<br />

20<br />

to 50<br />

80<br />

I (><br />

1(X)<br />

100<br />

to<br />

150<br />

I leavy duly<br />

Heavy duty<br />

Heavy duty j<br />

50<br />

A<br />

50 A<br />

—<br />

15. TO REGULATE TENSiON 16. RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEI)LK AND ThREADS<br />

Fig. 18<br />

Fig. 19<br />

Fig. 20<br />

Correct Stitch)<br />

tTight Upper<br />

‘l’eiision)<br />

(Tight Lower<br />

Tension)<br />

A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread and iiedle<br />

are suitable for the fabric. Please consult the following table of<br />

relative sizes of needle and threads for various materials.<br />

I’or ordinay stitching, it is very essential that the lock stitch for<br />

NEEDLE--THREAD FABRIC-STITCIHNG GUIDE<br />

ination is iaade in the center of cloth as shown in Fig. 18.<br />

If the tensun on the needle thread is too tight or that on the bobbin -<br />

Fabric<br />

thread is too loose, the needle thread will lie along the upper sur<br />

face of cloth as shown in Fig. 19.<br />

if the tensi an on the bobbin thread is too tight or that on the needle<br />

Extremely heavy tarpaulin,<br />

sacking, canvas, duck, etc.<br />

thread is too loose, the bobbin thread will lie along the under side<br />

of cloth as shown in Fig. 20.<br />

Heavy upholstery fabric tick<br />

ing, denim, leatherette etc.<br />

terry, etc.<br />

It<br />

Medium broadcloth, percale,<br />

gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta,<br />

sheer wool, shati Lu ig, etc<br />

12 60<br />

Ii 8’)<br />

j<br />

[‘1g. 21<br />

Fig. 22<br />

Sheer voile, lawn, dimity,<br />

crêpe, handkerchief linen,<br />

‘fhe tension on the needle thread is regulated by turning the tension<br />

plastic film, etc.<br />

dial, with the presser foot down, shown in Fig. 21, to the right to<br />

Very sheer chiffon, batiste,<br />

tighten and to the left to loosen. The tension on the under thread<br />

lace, organdy ninon, net,<br />

is regulated by turning the tension screw in the bobbin case spring,<br />

marquisette, etc.<br />

showit in Fig. 22, to the right to tighten and to the left to<br />

loosen.<br />

—8—


— 10<br />

17. REGULATING LENGTh OF STiTCH<br />

farther above the plate surface, making it suitable for sewing thick<br />

A nuinbere dial and lever (Fig. 2) control<br />

the stitches lo adjust, move the lever to<br />

turn the dia’ until the number stitch length<br />

i e iuired is directly under the indicator.<br />

No. I is (1 e shortest stitch and No. 12<br />

the length or size of<br />

the mid position, and I.<br />

material. When the red arrow on the knob points to UP there is<br />

maximum projection. Turning the knob to the left (counter-clockwise)<br />

will lower the feed, and when the arrow points to l)OWN, the<br />

teeth will he below the plate surface. In this position, no movement<br />

the longest. Next, move the lever down,<br />

and the ma hine will sew stitches accor<br />

ding to the iumber chosen.<br />

To reverse stitch, (10 not touch the dial<br />

but push tI e lever up. This will cause<br />

the material being sewn to travel in the<br />

oI)l)osite clir ction without any change in<br />

the size of stitches.<br />

I’ush dOWn I again sew for ward.<br />

lig 23<br />

Fig. 25<br />

18. DROP FEED ADJ USTMENT<br />

will be transmitted to the material, and this acljustineiit will be<br />

suitable for embroidery work. When commencing to sew, adjust<br />

It is necessat y to adjust the height of the feed clogs according to<br />

the thickness of the cloth being sewn. For thin material, only a<br />

the feed by moving the knob to tile most suitable position according<br />

to tile thickness of the material being sewn.<br />

4<br />

slight projection above the plate is<br />

required ; for thick material, more teeth<br />

should show above the plate, but not<br />

UP I)DOWN to such an extent as to cause marks<br />

\o on the cloth being sewn. Proper adjust-<br />

Ordinarily, the arrow should point to the feed position showii iii<br />

Fig. 24.<br />

19. TURNING A CORNER<br />

F F E )<br />

ment will result in neat and even<br />

1 ig.<br />

stitching.<br />

The adjusting knob for controlling the<br />

height of the feed dogs is conveniently located on the bed plate, as<br />

When a turning point has been reached, stop sewing with the needle<br />

deep in the cloth. Raise the presser foot and turn the cloth, as<br />

desired, using needle as a pivot. Then, lower the presser foot.<br />

shown in Fig 25, and adjustments can be made even while the<br />

machine is running. A uIne adjustment of the height is possible, a<br />

20. TO SEW JERSEY OR BIAS SEAMS<br />

special featurt not found on any other sewing machine, Turning<br />

the knob to he right (clockwise) will cause the feed to project<br />

Use a short stitch and as light a tension as possible, or the thread<br />

will break easily when the cloth is stretched.<br />


Tension<br />

— 1- —<br />

21. CLEANING ANI) OILING THE MAChINE 22. ChECK LIST FOR SMOOTH SEWING<br />

LLLJ<br />

For quiet operation and a long<br />

(1) UPPER THREAI) BREAKS<br />

Fig. 26<br />

J<br />

life for your machine, it is<br />

necessary to oil the machine<br />

well, and to keep it free of dust<br />

by an occasional thorough clean<br />

ing. One drop of high grade<br />

machine oil should be applied<br />

each day the machine is used<br />

to each point where there is<br />

any friction. Oiling points are<br />

indicated in Fig. 26 and 27. Oil<br />

should be applied through oiling<br />

point (1) by raising the presser<br />

foot. Oil should be applied to oil<br />

hole (2) by lowering the needle<br />

to its lowest position so that<br />

the oil hole of the crank connect<br />

a. Machine is improperly threaded.<br />

b. -<br />

is too tight.<br />

c, Needle is bent or has blunt point,<br />

d. Thread is too coarse for size of needle.<br />

(2) LOWER THREAD BREAKS<br />

a. Tension is too tiglit.<br />

b. Bobbin case or shuttle is improperly threaded.<br />

c. Thread is wound too full on bobbin or bobbin is worn,<br />

d. Spring on bobbin case or shuttle is worn to sharp groove.<br />

e. Needle has been inserted improperly.<br />

(3) NEEDLE BREAKS<br />

a. Sewing heavy fabric with a needle too fine.<br />

b. Presser foot or attachment is insecurely fastened to the bar.<br />

c. Needle is incorrrect size or is set improperly.<br />

(4) MACHINE SKIPS STITChES<br />

Fig. 27<br />

?Ig. 28<br />

-- .4<br />

— 12<br />

ing rod comes under hole (2)<br />

Fig 27<br />

lo oil the shuttle race, lift the<br />

cover plate and put a few drops<br />

of oil into the shuttle race. ho<br />

oil the under side of the bed,<br />

tilt the machine back as shown<br />

in Fig. 28 and oil all the moving<br />

parts in contact with each<br />

other.<br />

a. Needle is not accurately set into the needle bar, is blunt or<br />

bent.<br />

b. Needle is too short for the machine.<br />

c, The pressure regulating thumb screw is not tight.<br />

(I. The point of the shuttle is broken.<br />

(5) STITCHES LOOP<br />

a. Looped stitches are usually caused by an improper tension.<br />

b. When the ioop appears on the upper side, it may be corrected<br />

by tightening the under tension, and when the loop occurs<br />

on the under side, tighten the tension of upper thread.<br />

c. Take-up spring is placed incorrectly md its tension not<br />

sufficient.<br />

d. Upper and lower threads are not properly threaded.


the right.<br />

_______________<br />

When removing the lalul),<br />

Open the lanil) cover (I). Fig.<br />

32, raise the socket and<br />

unscrew the lamp C). When<br />

installing a new lamp, screw<br />

(6) PUCKERED SEAMS<br />

a. Te sion is too tight.<br />

b. Sti:ch is too long for material being sewn.<br />

c. Wiong presser foot is used.<br />

(7) MPCIIINE WORKS hEAVILY<br />

a. Mving parts need oil.<br />

b. Ma.hine runs hard due to gummed oil. In this case all working<br />

parts should be carefully cleaned with kerosene, which will<br />

loosen the old oil. Run the machine rapidly for a few minutes<br />

am wipe thoroughly with a piece of cheese cloth. Then, oil<br />

all working parts with high grade sewing machine oil.<br />

I<br />

c. Clean dust and fluff from race, the<br />

race cover and shuttle thoroughly.<br />

Apply a small amount of oil to race<br />

and shuttle.<br />

d. Be sure needle is still at its highest<br />

point. Hold shuttle center by pin<br />

fitting against<br />

and replace, it snugly<br />

driver. Replace race cover with<br />

notch at top.<br />

e. Turn latches up so that they fit<br />

over pins on shuttle race cover.<br />

Fig. 30<br />

c. The thread is caught and still remains between the shuttle<br />

rae and the shuttle.<br />

(8) CLEANING ANI) OILING TIlE SHUTTLE AND RACE<br />

(9) USE CAUTION WhEN RUNNING TIlE MACHINE<br />

When you run the machine, once it is threaded, make sure tbal<br />

the presser foot is lowered and that there is cloth between the<br />

When the machine is being used, fluff and dust may accumulate in<br />

the shuttle race, making the machine<br />

presser foot and the needle plate, or the threads may get tangled<br />

and jam the shuttle or damage and break the needle.<br />

work hea vily and noisily. Or when the<br />

machine is turned in the wrong direc<br />

tioli, thread can be caught between<br />

23. LIGhT<br />

ihe switch to turn the light on and off (Fig. ‘31) (I) is fixed in the<br />

the slutt Ic and shuttle race, causing<br />

arm under the balance wheel.<br />

the mach ne to stop. in such cases, if<br />

The light is t urnedl on an(l<br />

you cleai the parts in the following<br />

off by turning the switch to<br />

manner t ic machine will run smoothly<br />

and light y, as before.<br />

a. Raise the need Ic bar to its highest<br />

point and remove bobbin case. Tilt<br />

away from you.<br />

Fig. 29<br />

the head of the machine<br />

4<br />

I). ‘I’urn down latches holding shuttle race cover on each side.<br />

Pull kinge(l race cover down and remove shuttle. if race cover<br />

falls ff bracket it can he replaced easily, but be certain the two<br />

small pins appear on the outside of the cover when it is in<br />

nig position.<br />

big. 31<br />

in the lamp, lower the bulb<br />

and shut the lamp cover.<br />

Cleaning of the Light Refractor (see Fig. 33). When removing the<br />

light refractor (I), pull it down by the latch and remove froi tI<br />

frame. Clean the msi(le and out side of the refractor prism and replace.<br />

— 14 —


I<br />

Fig. 32<br />

24. OPERATING THE MACHINE WITh<br />

ELECTRIC MO’roR<br />

(1) F 0(1 Control.<br />

‘l’he ek etric motor is started and stopped or run at any (leSire(l<br />

speed by varying the pressure on the foot control.<br />

To stoj, release all pressure: to start, press gently; to sew faster,<br />

press ha ncr.<br />

2 ) Knee Lever Control<br />

(Fig 34)<br />

‘I’hc Ilk )st at f( )r varying t he<br />

motor sPed is placed insi(le<br />

the cabinet and is operated by<br />

a knee Ic ‘er.<br />

A gent e pressure of the<br />

II<br />

right kn& e against the lower<br />

euti of I is lever starts the<br />

Fig. 34<br />

11<br />

machine slowly and the speed can be increased as desired by<br />

pushing further to the right. When the pressure on the knee lever<br />

is release’1 the machine stops automatically.<br />

— 16

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