The politics of fashion and beauty in Africa

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22 | Feminist Africa 21 Konde, Emmanuel. 2005. African Women and Politics: Knowledge, Gender, and Power in Male-Dominated Cameroon. Lewiston, NY: Edwin Mellen Press. Lindsay, Lisa and Miescher, Stephan. 2003. Men and Masculinities in Modern Africa. Portsmouth: Heinemann. Ndi, Anthony. 2005. The Golden Age of Southern (West) Cameroon, 1946-1972: Impact of Christianity. Bamenda, Cameroon: Langaa Research and Publishing. Ndi, Anthony. 2014. Southern West Cameroon Revisited (1950-1972) Volume One: Unveiling Inescapable Traps. Bamenda, Cameroon: Langaa Research and Publishing. Ndimolo, Vincent C. 1971. “Free Girls, Their Parents Versus Moral Society.” The Hero, 13 September. Ney, Poubom L. 2016. Interview by Jacqueline-Bethel Mougoué, Buea, Cameroon, 18 April 2016. Ngafor, Martin S. 1964. “Women of Pleasure.” Cameroon Times, 5 September. Ngum, Fidelia (pseud.). 2011. Interview by Jacqueline-Bethel Mougoué, Buea, Cameroon, 4 November 2011. Ngum, Martin. 1968. “Do Wigs Add Beauty?” Cameroon Express, 19 September. Njoka, Martha. 1969. “Untitled Column.” Cameroon Outlook, 11 July. Nkepyah, P. J. 1967. “Tax Free Women.” Cameroon Times, 9 February. Obsenson, Patrick Tataw. 1971a. “Na War-O.” Cameroon Outlook, 24 February. ---. 1971b. “Changing Colours.” Cameroon Outlook, 15 June. Reddock, Rhoda. 2014. “The First Mrs. Garvey: Pan-Africanism and Feminism in the Early 20th Century”, Feminist Africa 19: 58-77. Stanbridge, Roland, and Ljunggren, Maria. 2003. African Media and ICT4D: Documentary Evidence: A Baseline Study on the State of Media Reporting on ICT and Information Society Issues in Africa. New York: United Nations. Thomas, Lynn. 2006. “The Modern Girl and Racial Respectability in 1930s South Africa”, Journal of African History 47(3): 461-490. Todd, Loreto. 1982. Cameroon. Amsterdam: John Benjamins Publishing. Tolma, Mami. 1966. “Women’s World: Every Woman is Beautiful.” Cameroon Observer, 2 July. Wanzie, Ruff. 1964. “Fashion Parade.” Cameroon Times, 22 February. Yonkeu, Vanessa (pseud.). 2011. Interview by Jacqueline-Bethel Mougoué, Yaoundé, Cameroon, 24 September 2011. Zumafor, Anthony Y. 2015. Interview by Jacqueline-Bethel Mougoué, Buea, Cameroon, 30 July 2015.
Feature article | 23 Contesting Beauty: Black Lesbians on the Stage Zethu Matebeni Introduction The 1995 publication, Defiant Desire: Gay and Lesbian Lives in South Africa (Gevisser and Cameron, 1995), pioneered a new field of study that is yet to be fully recognised in South Africa. This rich collection, written by South Africans across the country, assembled a wide range of gay, lesbian and, although unnamed, transgender experiences. The literature has expanded over the years, taking consideration of the changing landscape of lesbian and gay politics in the country. Topics of concern, beauty, style, fashion and glamour tend to be located in particular bodies, namely the bodies of gay men. More specifically, the figure of the drag queen or the effeminate gay man is often viewed as representing notions of beauty and femininity that are yet to be fully explored. This representation is not without contestation. The drag queen or ‘moffie,’ as popularly known in Cape Town, is both an ‘undesirable’ figure and a site of beauty and entertainment. Typically a coloured effeminate gay man of a particular social and class background, the ‘moffie’ is a regular feature in the ‘coon’ carnival, often seen leading the troupe (Jeppie, 1990). The annual ‘coon’ or Cape Minstrel carnival, held around New Year, has a long history in the Cape, dating back to as early as 1907 (Meltzer, et. al, 2010). In the 1950s carnivals, the ‘moffie’ was perceived to be both ‘sexually abnormal’ or pathological, as well as colourfully joyous or symbolising “the most subversive” (Jeppie, 1990: 82). It is not uncommon for the beautiful and the ugly to be viewed in relational terms; as Sarah Nuttall (2006:8) argues, “beauty is to be found at the limits of the ugly.” In the African context, the history of beauty is an ugly one. For centuries, colonisers have seen Africa and Africans as both beautiful and ugly – doomed to capture and exploitation.
Page 1: Issue 21 | 2016 The politics of fas
Page 4 and 5: ii | Feminist Africa 21 Editorial p
Page 7 and 8: Feminist Africa 21 | v Contents Edi
Page 9 and 10: Editorial | 1 Editorial: The politi
Page 11 and 12: along with letters from their audie
Page 13 and 14: normative and restrictive categorie
Page 15 and 16: Feature article | 7 African Women D
Page 17 and 18: Feature article | 9 the ‘modern l
Page 19 and 20: Feature article | 11 our women” (
Page 21 and 22: Feature article | 13 for the ‘Wom
Page 23 and 24: Feature article | 15 “Our Women H
Page 25 and 26: Feature article | 17 and gendered d
Page 27 and 28: Feature article | 19 pride and cult
Page 29: Feature article | 21 References Ade
Page 33 and 34: Feature article | 25 an organisatio
Page 35 and 36: Feature article | 27 of society. Of
Page 37 and 38: Feature article | 29 a small town i
Page 39 and 40: Feature article | 31 selection of t
Page 41 and 42: Feature article | 33 Reverend Thand
Page 43 and 44: Feature article | 35 Hansen, Karen
Page 45 and 46: Feature article | 37 “These Girls
Page 47 and 48: Feature article | 39 the domesticat
Page 49 and 50: Feature article | 41 routine readin
Page 51 and 52: Feature article | 43 or barely clot
Page 53 and 54: Feature article | 45 Eurocentric te
Page 55 and 56: Feature article | 47 what you have
Page 57 and 58: Feature article | 49 times, and ask
Page 59 and 60: Feature article | 51 O’Shaughness
Page 61 and 62: Feature article | 53 Awards’ Afro
Page 63 and 64: Feature article | 55 and hence skim
Page 65 and 66: Feature article | 57 emphasises sex
Page 67 and 68: Feature article | 59 relations with
Page 69 and 70: Feature article | 61 Bakare-Yusuf,
Page 71 and 72: Standpoint | 63 The weave as an ‘
Page 73 and 74: and essentialises blackness and its
Page 75 and 76: Overall but also in direct relation
Page 77 and 78: Standpoint | 69 Craig, Maxine. 1997
Page 79 and 80: I saw this as an opportunity to pre
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Standpoint | 73 hand as well. I str
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In Conversation | 75 Doing Beauty a
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In Conversation | 77 the waxing lad
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In Conversation | 79 but there is a
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In Conversation | 81 But on the oth
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Profile | 83 Profile: ‘Keep Your
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Integrity during the drafting and p
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even a case in which a magistrate s
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Profile | 89 “Policing Sexuality
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Review | 91 Liberated Threads: Blac
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Biko is also arguably misread to fi
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compelling for a scholar of religio
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dishes, claimed by the dominant Afr
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and biodiversity, while ‘investme
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Tribute | 101 Tribute: Hajiya Bilki
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Contributors 21 | 103 Contributors
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Contributors 21 | 105 Yewande Omoto
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