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DRIFT Travel Dec 2016

In this issue of DRIFT, our passionate team brings you a diverse range of travel stories that range from luxury to outrageous; from the comforts of home to the far corners of the earth.

In this issue of DRIFT, our passionate team brings you a diverse range of travel stories that range from luxury to outrageous; from the comforts of home to the far corners of the earth.

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL<br />

TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

CAMBODIAN<br />

TEMPLES<br />

5YOU MUST EXPERIENCE<br />

10<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

FOR SERIOUS<br />

TOP<br />

ADRENALINE<br />

JUNKIES<br />

ICELAND<br />

A PHOTOGRAPHER’S JOURNEY<br />

MALAWI<br />

THE WARM HEART OF AFRICA<br />

Exclusive<br />

ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />

BREAKING ICE WITH ASTRONAUT CHRIS HADFIELD<br />

DEC <strong>2016</strong><br />

COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


GET YOUR COPY<br />

in PRINT<br />

CLICK TO SUBSCRIBE<br />

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2 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


The Case for Better <strong>Travel</strong>.<br />

www.raden.com


DEC <strong>2016</strong><br />

COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM<br />

INSIDE this issue<br />

ISSUE'S TOP 10 8 Thrills of a lifetime.<br />

18 ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />

Polar bears, glaciers and an astronaut.<br />

TRAVELLING EDITOR<br />

30 St. Regis Punta Mita, Mexico<br />

AT A GLANCE 34 Riomaggiore, Italy.<br />

36 CAMBODIA<br />

5 Siem Reap temples you must visit.<br />

46 BEAUTIFUL BALI<br />

Two locations, one lasting impression.<br />

62 WHISTLER, BC.<br />

Romancing the snow - without skis.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

FOR SERIOUS<br />

TOP ADRENALINE<br />

JUNKIES<br />

10<br />

ICELAND<br />

A PHOTOGRAPHER’S JOURNEY<br />

MALAWI<br />

THE WARM HEART OF AFRICA<br />

Exclusive<br />

ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />

BREAKING ICE WITH ASTRONAUT CHRIS HADFIELD<br />

TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

CAMBODIAN<br />

TEMPLES<br />

5YOU MUST EXPERIENCE<br />

52 LIFE & STYLE<br />

How to pack stylishly for the tropics.<br />

54 SAN FRANCISCO<br />

Three restaurants we loved.<br />

56 MALAWI<br />

Warm heart of Africa.<br />

66 TRAVEL GEAR<br />

Pack more and spend less.<br />

68 ICELAND<br />

A photographic journey.<br />

80<br />

#WHERETONEXT<br />

Canouan Island, St. Vincent and<br />

the Grenadines.<br />

HOLIDAY <strong>2016</strong><br />

Whether your travel itch this<br />

season is adventurous, serene,<br />

frosty or tropical, it's all<br />

inside this issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong>.<br />

Come along on the journey.<br />

2 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Cathay Pacific Airways Limited<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling well<br />

means rest assured.<br />

Explore other travellers’ #lifewelltravelled experiences<br />

and share your own memorable moments.<br />

cathaypacific.com/lifewelltravelled


4 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


a travel note from the<br />

EDITOR<br />

For travel lovers like you and me,<br />

the cold weather doesn't mean<br />

hibernation. It means finding world<br />

destinations that embrace the season<br />

and introduce us to new experiences<br />

that broaden our minds and add to<br />

our passport stamp collections.<br />

30<br />

In this issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong>, our passionate team<br />

brings you a diverse range of travel stories that range from luxury to<br />

outrageous; from the comforts of home to the far corners of the earth.<br />

Whether your travel plans include a fun family road trip across the<br />

United States, or a grueling solitary trek across the desert, I understand<br />

how much you love to travel. I do as well and that is why I work hard to<br />

ensure that each issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong> travel magazine is beautifully curated,<br />

artistically crafted and chocked full of travel inspiration. Come along<br />

on the journey!<br />

30<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> often and live well,<br />

Tracey Drake<br />

Editor-In-Chief & Creative Director<br />

editor@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />

Connect with me on<br />

Instagram: @TraceyDrakeEditor<br />

54<br />

Oh, the places I've been!<br />

30<br />

BEACH FRONT BEAUTY<br />

IN PUNTA MITA<br />

Forty minutes from Puerto Vallarta,<br />

St. Regis Punta Mita provides a<br />

Mexican luxury haven, far away<br />

from the pressures of everyday life.<br />

54<br />

CULINARY CRAWL IN<br />

SAN FRANCISCO, CA<br />

After spending three days in Cali's<br />

eccentric coastal city, I'm excited<br />

to share three amazing culinary hot<br />

spots you must try - and soon!<br />

80<br />

A SPECIAL LITTLE<br />

CARIBBEAN ISLAND<br />

In this issue, our #WhereToNext<br />

is Canouan, a tiny island in the<br />

Caribbean that got my attention,<br />

and it will grab yours too.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 5


PUBLISHER<br />

GLOSSY MEDIA<br />

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

TRACEY DRAKE<br />

PRODUCTION/EDITORIAL TEAM<br />

BONNIE CONRAD, JANE CROSS, ELIZABETH DEAN,<br />

TRACEY DRAKE, LAURA FRIIS, KERI HARVEY, ERIC HIMEL,<br />

WILLIAM LAKE, PETER MANDEL, JOSIE SALDAT, TODD<br />

TALBOT, SYLVIA TENNANT<br />

CREATIVE | PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

GALYNA ANDRUSHKO, ADOBE STOCK, SERGE<br />

BERTASIUS, STEVE DRAKE, FEATUREWELL, LAURA FRIIS,<br />

CHRIS HADFIELD, ERIC HON, DENIS KABANOV, KARIN<br />

KAMON, CHRISTIAN MUELLER, VADIM PETRAKOV,<br />

MICHAEL PICCAYA, EKATERINA POKROVSKY, MEGAN<br />

SCRAPER, SHUTTERSTOCK, DEBBIE STEEPER, ST. REGIS<br />

PUNTA MITA, DIETMAR TEMPS, BARRY TUCK, ANDREY<br />

VERGELES, JIXEN YU<br />

SALES & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR<br />

STEVE DRAKE<br />

ADVERTISING & PUBLISHING RIGHTS INQUIRIES<br />

sales@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com | www.<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />

Published by: Glossy Media<br />

All rights reserved. No part of <strong>DRIFT</strong> magazine may be<br />

copied or reproduced without permission.<br />

© COPYRIGHT <strong>DRIFT</strong> TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

GLOSSY MEDIA<br />

2015-<strong>2016</strong><br />

6 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 7


Enjoy the Thrill of a Lifetime<br />

TOP<br />

10by: BONNIE CONRAD<br />

Ultimate Adventures for<br />

Adrenaline Junkies<br />

8 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


For some people, the perfect vacation means relaxing on the beach and reading a good book, but for<br />

the adrenaline junkie, that kind of staid getaway simply will not do. Whether you love to surf and<br />

kayak or climb and explore, the world gives you plenty of ways to indulge your love of adventure travel<br />

and get your fill of adrenaline rushes. Here are 10 great destinations for travelers who are not afraid to<br />

put themselves out there, in search of the next great adventure.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 9


1<br />

Diving the<br />

Great Barrier Reef<br />

If you love diving, it is hard to beat<br />

the beauty and drama of the Great<br />

Barrier Reef in Australia. You’ll<br />

probably want to stay away from the<br />

touristy places and book your trip<br />

with a local who understands your<br />

need for adventure. Once you n the<br />

Great Barrier Reef is the most popular<br />

dive spot in the world.<br />

2 Kayaking<br />

in Belize<br />

Belize is a land of natural beauty, with stunning rainforests and abundant<br />

wildlife at every turn. The water sports here are exceptional as well, and<br />

guiding your kayak down its raging rivers (Moho River is a fast water dream<br />

for kayakers) will certainly get your adrenaline pumping.<br />

3Rock Climbing<br />

Yosemite<br />

A favorite spot for rock climbing<br />

is Yosemite in California’s Sierra<br />

Nevada mountains. The stunning<br />

rock formations known as El<br />

Capitan and Half Dome are the<br />

most popular climbing locations,<br />

but there are hundreds of other<br />

lesser-known places to throw a<br />

line and get your fill of adrenalinefueled<br />

adventure.<br />

10 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 11


12 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


4Skydiving in Interlaken,<br />

Switzerland<br />

Can you imagine yourself leaping<br />

from a plane into the great blue<br />

yonder and enjoying breathtaking<br />

views of the Swiss Alps? That is<br />

exactly what you will experience<br />

when you visit Interlaken, an<br />

underappreciated part of the Swiss<br />

countryside that simply must be<br />

seen to be believed. Interlaken is<br />

truly a paradise for fans of fun,<br />

with skydiving and paragliding<br />

opportunities at every turn. If you<br />

love to fly, Interlaken is the place to<br />

get your wings.<br />

5Running with the<br />

Bulls in Pamplona<br />

Adult men and women can run in the footsteps of Papa Hemingway by<br />

fleeing from 1,000-pound bulls on the run through the streets of Pamplona,<br />

Spain. The 2017 Running of the Bulls is July 4-15, 2017 with daily bull runs<br />

and nightly street parties.<br />

6<br />

Volcano Boarding in<br />

Nicaragua<br />

If you are a true thrill seeker, you<br />

have gone dune boarding. Maybe<br />

you even traveled to locations in the<br />

Middle East and North Africa to<br />

indulge your passion. But have you<br />

ever boarded down the side of an<br />

active volcano? When you travel to<br />

the wilds of Nicaragua you can do<br />

just that. Nicaragua is one of the few<br />

places where you can sail down the<br />

side of an active volcano, and while<br />

it is not for the faint of heart, volcano<br />

boarding is an experience you<br />

will not soon forget.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 13


7<br />

Scaling the Top of<br />

Mount Everest<br />

For the expert climber, Mount<br />

Everest represents the literal and<br />

figurative pinnacle of the sport.<br />

The climb is arduous and the risks<br />

are quite real, and when you reach<br />

the summit, you will be part of a<br />

small and exclusive club. Even the<br />

Nepalese foothills around Mount<br />

Everest are filled with unique<br />

encounters, so plan to spend some<br />

time getting to know the area. A trip<br />

to Mount Everest is truly the thrill<br />

of a lifetime, perfect for anyone in<br />

search of stimulation.<br />

8<br />

Braving the Skywalk at<br />

the Grand Canyon<br />

Imagine walking out onto a ledge<br />

and stepping into oblivion. That is<br />

exactly what you can do on the west<br />

side of the iconic Grand Canyon<br />

in Arizona. The installation of a<br />

glass walkway extending over that<br />

massive canyon was big news, and<br />

now that it has been completed, the<br />

walkway is a big hit. The floor of<br />

the walkway is glass, but so are the<br />

walls. The Grand Canyon walkway<br />

is the perfect place for adrenaline<br />

junkies to test their mettle.<br />

14 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


9<br />

Hiking in<br />

Death Valley<br />

It would be hard to find a more<br />

extreme environment in which to<br />

indulge your love of hiking than<br />

Death Valley. Conditions in this part<br />

of Eastern California are extremely<br />

dry, and natural sources of water are<br />

almost nonexistent. As if that were<br />

not enough, there are poisonous<br />

lizards, dangerous snakes and all<br />

manner of scary desert wildlife. The<br />

average traveler would wonder why<br />

anyone would want to hike here,<br />

but for the adrenaline junkie it is<br />

all about pushing limits and seeing<br />

what they are capable of.<br />

10<br />

Surfing Big Waves<br />

in Hawaii<br />

If you have always wanted to ride<br />

the biggest waves, Hawaii should<br />

be your travel destination. The<br />

Hawaiian islands are renowned<br />

for their enormous waves, and<br />

the surfing here is outstanding.<br />

Whether you are an experienced<br />

surfer or a relative newcomer, you<br />

can find waves that suit your needs<br />

and abilities. Hawaii is also the<br />

perfect spot for solo travelers, with<br />

lots of new friends to make and<br />

pristine beaches to explore.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 15


every single day, more than<br />

EIGHT MILLION PEOPLE<br />

get on an airplane & travel<br />

Those who love to travel crave information on new countries to visit, exciting sights to see and once-in-a-lifetime adventures<br />

to experience. <strong>DRIFT</strong> covers all the travel bases for our readers; from hotels, airlines and cruises to city guides, culinary<br />

destinations, secret beaches and must-have accessories.<br />

Published six times a year, <strong>DRIFT</strong> is an exciting magazine that is a pleasure to read and an inspirational resource for travel lovers.<br />

Working with many of the best travel experts in the industry, each issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong> offers up articles on exotic destinations, city<br />

secrets, adventure meccas, resort reports, global hot-spots, grab-n-go technology and travel gear. Using our publication mantra<br />

“travel often, live well” as a launching point, <strong>DRIFT</strong> is filled with exclusive editorial on where to go, how to get there and what to do<br />

once you arrive; stories punctuated with meaningful, useful, expertly written travel guides and awe-inspiring travel photography.<br />

share your story<br />

with MILLIONS of<br />

travel lovers<br />

ADVERTISING, ADVERTORIAL & PRODUCT PLACEMENT:<br />

sales@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />

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TRAVEL WRITER & PHOTO JOURNALIST SUBMISSIONS:<br />

submissions@<strong>DRIFT</strong>travel.com<br />

16 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Tidal bore rafting.<br />

There’s nothing quite like that moment when the river shifts<br />

directions and goes from serene to exhilarating. And just think,<br />

rafting the most extreme tides in the world is only one of the<br />

things in Nova Scotia that will make your heart skip a beat.<br />

A real-life<br />

discovery<br />

channel.<br />

Explore all there is to do at NovaScotia.com<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 17


18 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM<br />

Working icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov


POLAR BEARS, GLACIERS & AN ASTRONAUT<br />

ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br />

Words and photography: Laura Friis<br />

M<br />

y polar obsession began in 2005, with my<br />

first trip to Antarctica. Perhaps because of<br />

my biologist background, my travels have<br />

taken me to the earth’s wild places, where<br />

the impact of human activity is less (but never absent) and<br />

you can escape the noise and trappings of civilization to<br />

some extent and see how the world once was.<br />

In the summer of <strong>2016</strong>, there was a remarkable<br />

opportunity to do something truly special: the Kapitan<br />

Khlebnikov, a Russian icebreaker, was planning a<br />

circumnavigation of the Arctic Ocean. Affectionately<br />

known as the KK, she had spent many years as a tourist<br />

ship with Quark Expeditions but had gone back to her<br />

regular icebreaking duties in Russia in early 2012. So<br />

top ice class expedition ships rarely go, and the helicopters<br />

gave us unparalleled access to remote areas.<br />

The KK, on this leg of the voyage, was going to try to cross<br />

into the Canadian Arctic along the north coast of<br />

Greenland. The Arctic sea ice is diminishing every year,<br />

but what thick multi-year ice there is tends to accumulate<br />

along the northeastern part of the Canadian Arctic and<br />

the top of Greenland, so we knew it would be a challenge.<br />

We encountered sea ice the day after leaving Svalbard, and<br />

spent two days trying to find a way west along the<br />

Greenland coast. As polar travelers know, the quickest way<br />

through ice is to go around it, so although we did a bit of<br />

ice-breaking, mostly we were just pushing our way<br />

through leads and between floes, eventually reaching a<br />

I BOOKED A TICKET TO GREENLAND<br />

and boarded Kapitan Khlebnikov, a working icebreaker, for an<br />

adventure to circumnavigate the Arctic Ocean.<br />

when I was informed of her return, “Book me to<br />

Greenland!” I said. And, not long after, “and the Canadian<br />

High Arctic too!”<br />

And so, at the end of July, I was on my way to<br />

Longyearbyen in Svalbard, to meet up with the ship.<br />

Icebreakers are a different design than regular expedition<br />

ships. The KK is a working icebreaker, 123 meters long,<br />

with 24,000 horsepower and a cruising speed of 15 knots<br />

in open water. In expedition mode, she carries a<br />

maximum of 110 guests, six zodiacs, and two helicopters.<br />

Her hull strength means she can venture where even the<br />

northern point of 81° 25’ N (about 500 nautical miles<br />

from the North Pole). Then, facing massive pressure ridges<br />

across nearly solid sea ice cover, and with no leads visible<br />

from satellite imagery or helicopter flights, the Captain<br />

made the decision to turn back.<br />

After the initial excitement of boarding the ship and<br />

learning our way around; the lifeboat drills, zodiac travel<br />

briefing, helicopter travel briefing, and polar bear safety<br />

briefing (“Can you run 100 meters as fast as Usain Bolt?<br />

Well, a polar bear can”), life aboard settled into something<br />

approaching a routine. The ship carried a full complement<br />

of specialists in the Arctic – culture, history, geology,<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 19


KK anchored opposite Quttinirpaaq National Park<br />

headquarters, Tanquary Fjord, Ellesmere Island<br />

glaciology, wildlife biology, so no matter what the<br />

question, someone knew the answer. Most important, the<br />

goal of the expedition team was to get us off the ship as<br />

much as possible.<br />

We spent the first several days exploring Northeast<br />

Greenland National Park, the largest national park in the<br />

world – larger than British Columbia - and a UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site. Then we continued on south,<br />

exploring all the fjords, glaciers, archaeological sites (both<br />

Thule and Norse), Sirius patrol stations and communities,<br />

from Ittoqqortoormiit to Tasilaq, Nuuk, Kangerlussuaq<br />

and Qaanaaq, that we could access as we traveled along<br />

the coast.<br />

We had two types of shore excursions, both preceded by a<br />

helicopter flight to check for bears and hiking routes, and<br />

then a few of the expedition team, appropriately armed,<br />

going in to set up a perimeter or to take groups hiking. If<br />

the weather was calm and a beach accessible, we would go<br />

ashore by zodiac (no docks here) and then go off in groups<br />

(chargers, who go for distance and elevation, medium<br />

walkers, and contemplative meanderers who are more<br />

interested in examining the landscape around them than<br />

going for distance.) I belong to the latter. The chargers<br />

may see more muskox, but we probably come out ahead<br />

with lemmings, wheatears and ptarmigan.<br />

Alternatively, the team would find us a nice open spot,<br />

usually elevated and with good vantage points and fabulous<br />

views of glaciers, fjords and ice, to fly us to, so we could<br />

meander at will while the gun bearers kept watch.<br />

In either case, I would often find a spot to just sit,<br />

experience the near total silence (something nearly<br />

impossible at home), observe the wildlife and just absorb<br />

the stunning landscapes around me.<br />

Because of the near-24-hour daylight, if an amazing<br />

opportunity presented itself, we could be off in zodiacs or<br />

helicopters at nearly any hour. In the end, this is an<br />

expedition, and ice and weather, and of course our<br />

Captain, are ultimately in charge.<br />

Greenland is 80% covered by an ice sheet with an average<br />

thickness of 1500 meters. Around the periphery of the ice<br />

sheet are innumerable glaciers, flowing inexorably<br />

downwards. Over millennia, the landscapes have been<br />

20 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


carved by the glaciers, revealing a geologist’s dream of a<br />

country, ancient rocks exposed by the irresistible power of<br />

the ice. As a glacier melts, vast quantities of rocks of all<br />

sizes are deposited in a jumbled heap along its edges and<br />

at the front. Huge rocks are left on the landscape randomly<br />

as the glacier retreats - and the glaciers are definitely<br />

retreating. As we sailed south along Greenland’s coast, we<br />

did see glaciers reaching tidewater, but many more just<br />

visible on the mountainsides.<br />

We could tell areas which had been recently glaciated by<br />

the presence and extent of lichen on the exposed rocks.<br />

Lichen grows very slowly, so the size of the patches on<br />

rocks can be an indication of when the ice retreated, and<br />

can easily be decades or hundreds of years old.<br />

Although we were far above the treeline, there were still<br />

trees. Arctic willow and birch are most common, but they<br />

grow along the ground rather than upright, and can also<br />

reach ages of many decades. Like their upright cousins to<br />

the south, these trees also change color in the fall,<br />

producing vivid splashes of red and orange across the<br />

landscape. As I walked over the tundra, I found myself<br />

Aerial view of lake on glacier, Scoresbysund<br />

Icebergs at Ilulissat with ground vegetation<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 21


Photo credit: Chris Hadfield<br />

Writer Laura Friis (center) with astronaut Chris Hadfield (left)<br />

and son Evan Hadfield (right)<br />

apologizing to the lichens and old trees I was walking<br />

over, hopefully not damaging them with my passage.<br />

When, after three weeks, we reached Kangerlussuaq on<br />

Greenland’s west coast, it was time for most of the<br />

passengers to head home and a new group to join us<br />

aboard, to explore the rest of Greenland’s coast and then<br />

sail west into the Canadian Arctic. Among the joining<br />

passengers were Canadian astronaut Chris Hadfield and<br />

son Evan, and with them, the team of Generator Arctic, a<br />

group of photographers, writers and musicians, none of<br />

whom had been to the Arctic before. Unlike the previous<br />

three weeks, when the passengers were all seasoned polar<br />

travelers, we now had an amazing group of very talented<br />

people experiencing all of this for the first time. And that<br />

in turn improved my own experience immeasurably, by<br />

seeing these incredible landscapes all over again, through<br />

their eyes. We heard fascinating space stories from Chris<br />

and some intriguing talks from the Generator team –<br />

AND they brought guitars making for memorable evening<br />

music in the bar.<br />

We continued north, exploring another UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site: Ilulissat and the adjacent Sermeq Kujalleq<br />

glacier, which is flowing at several kilometers a year (up to<br />

45 meters a day), produces enormous numbers of icebergs<br />

(35 billion tonnes per year, more than any other glacier<br />

outside Antarctica). We spent an exhilarating few hours<br />

zodiacing among these massive icebergs with occasional<br />

humpback whales for company. Despite the volume of ice<br />

flowing from the main ice sheet, the active face of this<br />

glacier is retreating every year.<br />

22 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


CANADIAN ASTRONAUT<br />

CHRIS HADFIELD,<br />

SON EVAN AND THE GENERATOR ARCTIC<br />

TEAM JOINED US THREE WEEKS IN.<br />

Village of Uummannaq, NW Greenland<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 23


24 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


WITH NEAR 24-HOUR DAYLIGHT,<br />

IF AN AMAZING OPPORTUNITY PRESENTED ITSELF,<br />

WE COULD BE OFF IN ZODIACS OR HELICOPTERS<br />

AT NEARLY ANY HOUR.<br />

Big ice.<br />

That is part of what draws so many of us back. From the<br />

gigantic white blocks of ice calving from the glaciers of<br />

Scoresbysund or Ilulissat, maturing over the years as they<br />

roll and split and age, displaying incredible shades of blue,<br />

textures from pebbled to ridged to as clear as glass, every<br />

iceberg is different and beautiful. Their history can be<br />

traced through the layers, the number of times it has<br />

rolled by the “water lines”. The glacier ice from which the<br />

iceberg is formed is thousands of years old, but once the<br />

iceberg leaves the fjord and begins its journey south, its<br />

life is often only a year or two. Finding a particularly<br />

sculpted and weathered iceberg with infinite shades of<br />

green and blue can keep photographers happy for hours!<br />

A few glaciers and fjords later, we stopped for a visit at<br />

Qaanaaq, our last stop in Greenland, and then headed<br />

west into the Canadian Arctic.<br />

Our first stop in Canada was at Grise Fiord on Ellesmere<br />

Island, where Canada Customs and Immigration officers<br />

cleared the ship and all of us. At this point, two Canadian<br />

helicopters and crew joined us, having spent four days and<br />

14 refueling stops to reach us from their base in Quebec.<br />

We had planned a community visit, but the inclement<br />

weather (huge waves) made a shore landing difficult, so<br />

the helicopters came into play, ferrying some of the school<br />

children and townspeople to the ship to visit us, and<br />

taking the Hadfields into town to visit with the school.<br />

Zodiac and iceberg. Rodefjord, Scoresbysund<br />

Then we turned north again, sailing up between Ellesmere<br />

and Axel Heiberg islands and into Tanquary Fjord, where<br />

we reached our most northern point of this part of the<br />

voyage, over 81° N at the headquarters for Quttinirpaaq<br />

National Park, Canada’s second largest national park. The<br />

snow was now beginning, making hikes even more<br />

interesting because of the wildlife tracks we could easily see,<br />

and accentuating the geological formations of the<br />

mountains around us. Helicopter flights, charging and<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 25


meandering continued each day, and we were also able to<br />

visit Eureka weather station, one of the few inhabited<br />

spots this far north (80°N).<br />

Eventually we had to turn our ship south again, having<br />

a final magnificent encounter with a polar bear on the<br />

sea ice, and then, once again blocked by ice, circling<br />

back around Devon Island (with a brief stop for a polar<br />

swim by the intrepid or foolish) to reach Resolute, the<br />

end-point of our voyage. More snow, fog and big waves<br />

hindered the zodiac landings a bit, but we made it to<br />

the airport, and eventually were winging our way south<br />

again, as the KK continued west through the rest of the<br />

Northwest Passage and its home port in Russia.<br />

Since our return, I’ve adjusted to the southern noise<br />

levels again, have been happily following the<br />

photographs and videos being posted by the members<br />

of Generator Arctic.<br />

And yes, I’m planning my next return to the ice.<br />

About the author: Laura Friis is a travel consultant<br />

at Departures <strong>Travel</strong> (departurestravel.com) specializing<br />

in adventure travel and helping others to experience<br />

these amazing destinations.<br />

For more information on arctic and antarctic<br />

expeditions visit quarkexpeditions.com<br />

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Polar bear, NE Greenland<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 27


the<br />

editor<br />

when was the last time you saw<br />

something for the first time?<br />

by: TRACEY DRAKE<br />

If you have never experienced St. Regis hospitality,<br />

you are truly missing out on something very<br />

special. On a trip to Mexico, I spent some time<br />

at the lovely St. Regis Punta Mita Resort, and<br />

experienced a tropical travel experience filled<br />

with luxury amenities, elegant dining, and white<br />

sand. While you may have traveled to Mexico<br />

many times, you haven’t been to this Mexico.<br />

Punta Mita – which translates to Gateway to<br />

Paradise - is off the beaten path, as it should be.<br />

As you leave Puerto Vallarta proper, you travel<br />

through authentic Mexican countryside, enter<br />

into the State of Nayarit and eventually arrive<br />

at the gates of this 1,500 acre master planned<br />

community; greeted by the smiling faces of The<br />

St. Regis staff, armed with pitchers of ice cold<br />

Margaritas. This welcome was a glimpse into what<br />

became four days of what I can only describe<br />

as “always attentive but never intrusive” bliss.<br />

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ST. REGIS PUNTA MITA<br />

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• Getting Here: Punta Mita is a 40-minute scenic drive from the airport in<br />

Puerto Vallarta. Limo, shuttle and taxi services are readily available and can<br />

be booked in advance.<br />

THE FINER POINTS<br />

• Packing: Bathing suit, beach sandals, shorts, sunblock and a good book<br />

should be the bulk of your suitcase contents but pack at least one nice resort<br />

outfit for dinner.<br />

• Attractions: Do not miss snorkelling to Hidden Beach on Marietas<br />

Islands (Vallarta Adventures) and board a helicopter at the St. Regis for an<br />

unforgettable aerial tour (Punta Mita Expeditions).<br />

FOLLOW<br />

@TraceyDrakeEditor<br />

on Instagram & Twitter<br />

or search hashtag #The<strong>Travel</strong>lingEditor<br />

32 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Starting from the stunning decor in the hotel's open<br />

air reception lobby, The St. Regis Punta Mita Resort<br />

has so much to offer including a collection of aweinspiring<br />

infinity pools, beach cabanas, Remède Spa,<br />

numerous casual and formal dining options, as well<br />

as access to two 18-hole Jack Nicklaus golf courses.<br />

My beach front deluxe suite was well appointed,<br />

with Mexican charm and high end finishes. The<br />

suite was large with a very private ocean-view walkout<br />

terrace, and a spa bathroom with an oversized<br />

soaker tub and an incredibly private outdoor shower.<br />

As part of the long standing signature St. Regis<br />

Butler Service, you are assigned a personal butler<br />

who is just a quick call, text or email away to get<br />

whatever you may need - coffee, reading material,<br />

drinks, garment pressing or even a private party<br />

planned in your suite. They take care of everything,<br />

including packing and unpacking your suitcases.<br />

Here, you can do nothing at all - enjoying the white<br />

sane beaches and peaceful sounds of the waves<br />

washing ashore. Or you can do whatever you desire.<br />

The staff at St. Regis are happy to arrange yoga, beach<br />

activities, water sports, excursions to Marietas Islands<br />

where you can snorkel into Hidden Beach (which I<br />

highly recommend!) and even a private helicopter<br />

tour to see this spectacular region from the air.<br />

This St. Regis waterfront resort is casual elegance<br />

at its best. The sprawling property was carefully<br />

curated to maximize guest privacy; even with the<br />

hotel booked to capacity for large weddings or<br />

special events like the very popular Punta Mita<br />

Beach Festival (held in July each year), the private<br />

casita-style accommodation and lush landscapes<br />

meant it never feels busy or crowded or rushed.<br />

It is probably a good reason why celebrities love<br />

St. Regis Punta Mita. In fact, I spent an entire<br />

afternoon on the pure white sand beach, swimming<br />

and lounging in a hammock with my book and<br />

my thoughts, and never saw another person.<br />

Paraiso – yes, paradise.<br />

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION: STREGIS.COM/PUNTAMITA<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 33


AT A GLANCE:<br />

Riomaggiore, Italy<br />

by: ELIZABETH DEAN<br />

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CINQUE<br />

TERRE<br />

by: JANE CROSS<br />

Situated right on the Gulf of Genoa, in the<br />

province of La Spezia in the Liguria region of<br />

Italy, and one of the five famous Italian fishing<br />

villages known as Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore<br />

is one of the prettiest villages in the world.<br />

Charming by day and breathtaking by night,<br />

the origins of Riomaggiore dates back to the 8th<br />

Century, when the inhabitants of the Vara valley,<br />

searching a milder climate to grow grapes and<br />

olive trees without the fear of pirate raids, moved<br />

to the coast. The town climbs steeply up along the<br />

ridges overlooking the sea and it is characterized<br />

by a multitude of colorful stone buildings,<br />

slate rooftops and open air balconies that<br />

welcome each day in the village of Riomaggiore.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 35


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MUST SEE TEMPLES<br />

IN SIEM REAP,<br />

5C AMBODIA<br />

by: WILLIAM LAKE<br />

Siem Reap is the most popular tourist destination<br />

in Cambodia, and the temples of Angkor<br />

Archaeological Park attract millions of visitors every<br />

year. Most people will have heard of the legendary<br />

Angkor Wat, but there are many temples located in<br />

Siem Reap and surrounding provinces which are<br />

also worth visiting.<br />

The temples in Cambodia were built by kings<br />

during the Khmer Empire, or what is known as the<br />

Angkor Period. The Angkor kings built up a vast<br />

empire which covered Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia<br />

and Thailand. During this time, they built huge<br />

reservoirs, canals, large cities, and the largest<br />

religious monument the world has ever seen.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 37<br />

Koh Ker Temple


ANGKOR WAT TEMPLE<br />

The magnificent Angkor Wat is a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage site and is the largest religious monument<br />

in the world. It was built in the early part of the<br />

12th century by King Suryavarman II and was<br />

dedicated to Vishnu, a Hindu god. However, by the<br />

end of the 12th century, it had been converted into<br />

a Buddhist temple.<br />

Angkor Wat was built to represent Mount Meru,<br />

the home of the Hindu Gods. The five towers<br />

represent the five peaks of the mountain, the walls<br />

symbolize the surrounding mountain range, and<br />

the moat represents the ocean.<br />

Angkor Wat is famous for its extensive carvings<br />

which mainly depict stories from Hindu epics. On<br />

the east gallery, you can see the famous "Churning<br />

of the Sea of Milk" scene with carvings of 88 devas<br />

and 92 asuras churning the sea under the guidance<br />

of the great Vishnu.<br />

Angkor Wat Temple<br />

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It’s an irritating reality that many places and<br />

events defy description. Angkor Wat and<br />

Machu Picchu, for instance, seem to demand<br />

silence, like a love affair you can never talk<br />

about. For a while after, you fumble for words,<br />

trying vainly to assemble a private narrative,<br />

an explanation, a comfortable way to frame<br />

where you’ve been and what's happened. In<br />

the end, you’re just happy you were therewith<br />

your eyes open- and lived to see it.”<br />

ANTHONY BOURDAIN<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 39


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KOH KER TEMPLE<br />

Banteay Srei Temple<br />

Located around 120km away from Siem Reap, Koh<br />

Ker is far less crowded than the temples near Siem<br />

Reap town. The peaceful surroundings and Koh<br />

Ker's unique place in Khmer history makes Koh<br />

Ker one of the most fascinating temples in Siem<br />

Reap province.<br />

Located deep inside the jungle in a sparsely<br />

populated area, Koh Ker was once the capital of<br />

the Khmer Empire. Much of the temple is closed<br />

to visitors as the area is completely surrounded by<br />

jungle. However, more than 20 monuments can<br />

still be explored by visitors.<br />

The most fascinating aspect of Koh Ker is the<br />

unique pyramid design. The seven tiers of the<br />

pyramid are unique for temples built during the<br />

Khmer Empire and many people note the striking<br />

similarities between Koh Ker and some of the<br />

ancient Inca ruins built in South America. This has<br />

led to some historians to believe that this wasn't a<br />

coincidence and is proof that temples all over the<br />

world were built by aliens.<br />

Koh Ker Temple<br />

BANTEAY SREI TEMPLE<br />

Banteay Srei is an early example of Khmer<br />

architecture and was built in the 10th century.<br />

This Hindu temple is unique because it was<br />

the only temple not to have been built by a<br />

king. Instead it was built by two of the king's<br />

courtiers.<br />

Buddhist monk at Angkor Wat Temple<br />

The name translates into English as the<br />

"Citadel of the Women" which historians<br />

believe is related to the intricate carvings on<br />

the red sandstone walls. Local legend says<br />

that the carvings are so beautiful that they<br />

could only have been carved by the delicate<br />

hands of a woman.<br />

This unique temple is a very popular choice for<br />

visitors and is located about half an hour away<br />

from Angkor Wat.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 41


BAYON TEMPLE<br />

Ancient columns at Bayon Temple<br />

The Bayon is another beautiful and extremely<br />

popular temple. It was built in the late 12th and<br />

early 13th centuries by King Jayavarman VII. The<br />

temple sits in the center of Angkor Thom which<br />

was once the capital city of the Angkor empire.<br />

This Buddhist temple was later changed to a<br />

Hindu temple before being changed back again.<br />

This means that you'll see a mix of Hindu and<br />

Buddhist carvings on the bas reliefs and walls.<br />

This unique temple features 49 towers, 37 of which<br />

remain today. Probably the most famous aspect<br />

of Bayon temple are the carved faces which are<br />

said to represent the face of King Jaravarman VII.<br />

Bayon Temple<br />

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More than 200 faces were carved into the temple.<br />

Although Bayon temple has undergone some<br />

restoration work, it is still largely unrestored,<br />

which only adds to the charm of the temple.<br />

TA PROHM TEMPLE<br />

Ta Prohm temple was made famous as it was used<br />

as a backdrop for the first Tomb Raider movie<br />

starring Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft. Due to its<br />

unique appearance, Ta Prohm is one of the most<br />

beautiful temples in the Angkor Archaeological<br />

Park. After the fall of the Angkor Empire, Ta<br />

Prohm was left to the mercy of the jungle and the<br />

trees are literally growing through the middle of<br />

the temple giving it a very unique appearance.<br />

Ta Prohm was built in the same style at Bayon<br />

temple. It's located just outside Angkor Thom and<br />

was built by King Jayavarman VII in the early 13th<br />

century to be used as a Buddhist monastery. At that<br />

time, it was home to more than 12,000 people with<br />

nearly 800,000 people living in the surrounding<br />

villages providing supplies and services for the<br />

people living in the temple.<br />

There are hundreds of temples located around<br />

Cambodia and the most popular temples are<br />

located around Siem Reap town. Angkor Wat is<br />

the main reason why people go to visit Siem Reap,<br />

but many of the smaller temples are also worth<br />

visiting. Take your time to explore Angkor Wat<br />

and the other fascinating temples built during the<br />

Khmer Empire.<br />

Ta Prohm Temple<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 43


When asked about my travels to Bali,<br />

I always answer with an enthusiastic,<br />

“You MUST go!”<br />

words by: SYLVIA TENNANT<br />

photographs by: MEGAN SCRAPER<br />

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I realize that there are countless<br />

breathtaking tropical islands on<br />

our planet, but given the vibrant<br />

spectrum of experiences offered by<br />

this destination, it has become my<br />

first suggestion for many, especially<br />

those who have never explored<br />

Indonesia. Wandering yogis, avid<br />

entrepreneurs, jet-set fashionistas,<br />

families with young children, and<br />

what seems like everyone in between<br />

are flocking to Bali, and have been<br />

for years. The luxury travel industry<br />

on this island is brimming with<br />

elusive properties, and I jumped at<br />

the opportunity to experience both<br />

Seminyak and Uluwatu through a<br />

bespoke artisanal journey with the<br />

Alila brand. World-renowned for the<br />

authentic character of their resorts,<br />

sustainable approach and awardwinning<br />

service, I knew that my time<br />

spent under their spell would be a<br />

treat for my senses.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 47


I began at Alila Seminyak, the beach<br />

front property that occupies prime<br />

real estate along the lively southwest<br />

coast of Bali. Marrying tropical luxury<br />

with minimalist design, the resort is<br />

a work of modern art and features a<br />

Balinese temple within its manicured<br />

grounds. Rooms are equipped with<br />

fine details, including floor-to-ceiling<br />

sliding doors that open to a soft ocean<br />

breeze and black sand beach view. I<br />

was quick to spot surfers from my giant<br />

bed and thrilled to discover that the<br />

bathroom amenities were locally made<br />

and organic. The multiple infinity<br />

pools, open-air candlelit dinners,<br />

and evening (I suggest the Bali 75,<br />

an innovative rose water concoction)<br />

made it very clear as to why this resort<br />

is renowned for exceptional design,<br />

service, and cuisine.<br />

Just steps from the front gates of Alila<br />

Seminyak, the sophisticated offerings<br />

of Bali’s hottest neighborhood await.<br />

The fashion, food, and nightlife lends<br />

to a cosmopolitan ambiance that feels<br />

glitzy but relaxed. Exploring beyond<br />

the bustle into more traditional<br />

surroundings was easy. The resort’s<br />

concierge planned a guided morning<br />

bike ride through the rice paddies and<br />

charming village of Canggu, topped<br />

off with a picnic on Cemagi beach. It<br />

was a truly special way to get a peek<br />

into daily Balinese culture, and just<br />

one of the many customizable ecoluxury<br />

experiences available to guests.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 49


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From Seminyak, I traveled south<br />

along jungle-lined ancient roads to the<br />

expansive property of Alila Uluwatu.<br />

Perched high above the cliffs on the<br />

edge of the Indian Ocean, the opulence<br />

of this remote location is obvious at<br />

first glance. Architecturally, the resort<br />

seamlessly blends the dramatic natural<br />

landscape with a contemporary woodslatted<br />

design. Upon arrival, I asked a<br />

porter why the winding paths to the<br />

villas were unusually arranged. He told<br />

me that it was of utmost importance to<br />

work around the preexisting flora and<br />

fauna during the building process,<br />

which relied on locally sourced,<br />

recycled, and sustainable materials.<br />

in sight. As I slowly make my way<br />

back to my villa for the final time,<br />

I am in awe of how effortless this<br />

experience has been. The Alila brand<br />

has created sanctuaries for travelers<br />

who expect natural luxury in beautiful<br />

surroundings. There is nowhere else<br />

I would rather be, and I’m certain I’ll<br />

return again.<br />

The villas are light-filled, spacious, and<br />

supremely private, with larger-thanaverage<br />

plunge pools and day beds.<br />

Curated gardens are lush with tropical<br />

plants. The walk from my villa to<br />

breakfast at Cire, one of two in-house<br />

fine dining restaurants, made me feel<br />

as though I was within the grounds of<br />

a private estate. The morning market<br />

menu is filled with local, nutritious<br />

ingredients, which are served poolside<br />

under palm trees overlooking the<br />

incredible view. The main pool is a<br />

prime location to lounge, and there are<br />

plenty of private areas to do so. It truly<br />

feels as though you’re swimming high<br />

above the ocean within the clouds.<br />

Post-pool, I enjoyed a traditional<br />

Balinese massage with essential oils<br />

and ancient healing techniques at<br />

the Alila spa. Their holistic approach<br />

to relaxation is unparalleled and my<br />

spa experience was calming for both<br />

body and mind. For those who prefer<br />

to explore, the famed Uluwatu temple<br />

is only a 15-minute drive from the<br />

resort. Be sure to stay into the evening<br />

to catch the Kecak fire dance at sunset.<br />

At night, the walkways are softly lit,<br />

the air is fragrant with the sweet smell<br />

of frangipani, and there isn’t a soul<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 51


Eric Himel’s<br />

LIFE+STYLE<br />

by: ERIC HIMEL<br />

Packing for a warm destination is one part identifying<br />

your style and one part having a plan. Just because<br />

you are going to a tropical island that doesn’t mean<br />

you have to dress like Gidget. Don’t be literal, be<br />

smart. Pack for the weather, comfort and of course -<br />

dress with style!<br />

IDENTIFY YOUR STYLE<br />

What’s your vibe? Nautical, boho, feminine, edgy,<br />

preppy? Pick a theme that is really you and stick to it<br />

when packing.<br />

CALYPSO ST. BARTH<br />

MOKRA CROCHET<br />

COTTON SHORT<br />

RADEN A50 BLUETOOTH<br />

LUGGAGE SET IN PINK<br />

THE ESSENTIALS<br />

You’ve chosen your theme, now make a list and check<br />

it twice. Pack only what you need and nothing more.<br />

Bathing Suit: For a one week trip, pack 3. One should<br />

be a one piece when you aren’t feeling your best.<br />

Shorts: To throw over your bathing suit or for day<br />

trips.<br />

Tops: To go with your shorts, natch! Both day time<br />

tanks and a sexy slinky one for evening.<br />

Day Dress/Cover Up: Interchangeable that will take<br />

you from pool to lunch and back.<br />

Night Wear: Whether you choose a dress or separates,<br />

this look should adhere to the three C’s: comfort,<br />

coordinated and chic!<br />

SUNNY SIDE UP! PACKING FOR THE TROPICS<br />

ERIC HIMEL (erichimel.com)<br />

is a widely known celebrity stylist, fashion expert and media personality. Himel attended<br />

Parson’s School of Design and trained under Project Runway’s Tim Gunn. Now based in<br />

Los Angeles, Himel’s roster of celebrity clientele has included Jenny McCarthy, Giuliana<br />

Rancic, Pete Wentz, Gabby Douglas and more,. Eric is best known for his signature Closet<br />

Purge and now offers Virtual Styling Sessions.<br />

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VALENTINO<br />

ROCKSTUD SANDALS<br />

Shoes: Pack three pairs: sandals for the pool, laceups<br />

for excursions and dressy sandal or wedge for<br />

evening.<br />

Sunglasses: Polarized for ultimate eye protection.<br />

Bags: Pack two - a tote bag that you carry on the plane<br />

and doubles for the pool. And a clutch for evening!<br />

EDIE PARKER<br />

ANCHOR CLUTCH<br />

Accessories: two pairs of earrings, one day, one<br />

night. Bangles that go with literally anything. And a<br />

oversized soft scarf that doubles as a sarong.<br />

TRINA TURK<br />

RESORT WEAR<br />

ERIC'S EXPERT TRIPS:<br />

• DON'T pack the same day as your trip!<br />

• DO color coordinate.<br />

• DO try on outfits beforehand.<br />

• DON’T pack structured or constricting clothing.<br />

• DO get a pedicure.<br />

KENDRA SCOTT<br />

BANGLES<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 53


#havefoodwilltravel<br />

SAN<br />

FRANCISCO<br />

by: TRACEY DRAKE<br />

If it's true that the way to the heart is<br />

through the stomach, then the adage<br />

"I left my heart in San Francisco" could<br />

never be more true. This hilly, quirky<br />

California coastal city is in the midst of<br />

a culinary revolution, and it is the best<br />

reason to visit (or revisit) San Francisco.<br />

<strong>DRIFT</strong> recently spent three days in<br />

San Fran, and came back with our<br />

three favorite spots to eat. Each offers<br />

up memorable ambiance, exceptional<br />

food and some interesting menu items.<br />

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One Market | 1 Market Street | onemarket.com<br />

Fine dining San Francisco style pretty much sums<br />

up the understated elegant decor and world class<br />

menu offerings at One Market. One of the hottest<br />

culinary destinations in the city, Chef/Partner Mark<br />

Dommen and Sommelier/Wine Director Tonya<br />

Pitts offer a wonderfully symbiotic food and wine<br />

experience. The restaurant’s open kitchen offers a<br />

contemporary nod to a sophisticated menu that<br />

leans toward the classics.<br />

<strong>DRIFT</strong> RECOMMENDS:<br />

Main: Pancetta-wrapped Day Boat Scallops<br />

Dessert: Chocolate Caramel Pecan Tart<br />

Drink: Smokey Margarita<br />

Twenty Five Lusk | 25 Lusk Street | 25lusk.com<br />

The ambiance of Twenty Five Lusk is decidedly Mad<br />

Men Meets the 21st Century with just the right mix<br />

of cool, vintage and ultra modern. With a 130-seat<br />

main dining room, lower level lounge, and two bars,<br />

Twenty Five Lusk offers seasonally inspired creative<br />

cuisine, a worldly wine list and an inspiring variety<br />

of craft cocktails. Executive Chef/Partner Matthew<br />

Dolan puts an excellent spin on rustic food, tailor<br />

made for a modern, urban palate.<br />

<strong>DRIFT</strong> RECOMMENDS:<br />

Main: Sunchoke Risotto<br />

Dessert: Gingerbeer Cake<br />

Drink: SF Yacht Club<br />

Dirty Habit | 12 Fourth Street | dirtyhabitsf.com<br />

On the fifth floor of Hotel Zelos in San Francisco's<br />

bustling SOMA district, Dirty Habit is a chic<br />

escape from the city. The dramatic film noir decor<br />

immediately envelopes you. Dirty Habit is definitely<br />

for those seeking a hip, social dining and drinking<br />

atmosphere. Chef Thomas Weibull does a brilliant<br />

job making the shareable, seasonal cuisine shine in<br />

this bar-centric hot spot, that also offers a genius<br />

craft cocktail menu.<br />

<strong>DRIFT</strong> RECOMMENDS:<br />

Main: Camembert Ravioli<br />

Dessert: Foie Gras Ice Cream Sandwich<br />

Drink: Artist’s Fizz<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 55


THE WARM HEART OF<br />

AFRICA<br />

by: KERI HARVEY<br />

When David Livingstone first clapped eyes on Lake Malawi,<br />

its surface danced with twinkling stars. He named it the<br />

Lake of Stars, though it's also called the Calendar Lake for<br />

being 365 miles long and 52 miles wide at its broadest, with<br />

12 big rivers flowing into it. It's a massive expanse of water,<br />

waves break onto the sandy beaches and on appearance<br />

it's a vast freshwater ocean stretching beyond the horizon.<br />

'Lake Malawi is quite unique," smiles local lake guide<br />

Johnson Nthenda. 'It's only the third largest lake in Africa,<br />

but it was the first lake in the world to be proclaimed a<br />

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Kayaking and snorkeling on Lake Malawi<br />

national park to protect the marine life of a tropical, deep<br />

water, Rift Valley lake. Because nearly 1,000 species of fish<br />

mostly dazzling, brightly colored cichlid live in its waters,<br />

and new species are still being discovered every year.'<br />

Islands in the lake are boulder strewn and dotted with<br />

baobabs; wildlife is regularly seen on the lake shores.<br />

Zebra, bushbuck, klipspringer, baboons, monkeys and<br />

rock hyraxes live along the lake, otters frolic in the waters<br />

and in the quiet reaches are hippos and crocodiles. Tiny<br />

deserted beaches and coves are everywhere, giving the<br />

lake a island paradise appeal. This is also a favorite area for<br />

kayakers, who go island to island enjoying pristine nature.<br />

With goggles and snorkels, we slip quietly over the side<br />

of the small wooden fishing boat and into the tepid<br />

lake water. Before long we are part of an underwater<br />

Pied Piper scene, with clouds of neon colored cichlid<br />

fish following us through the clear water. As we turn,<br />

so does the cichlid cloud of yellow and blue behind us,<br />

and if feels like we are swimming in a tropical aquarium.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 57


'That's exactly what this spot is called,' laughs Johnson<br />

when we are back on the boat, 'it's The Aquarium because<br />

it always looks like that underwater.' The southern section<br />

of the lake around Cape Maclear is a proclaimed national<br />

park, yet over 7 000 local people still live on the shores<br />

here and use the lake for water and subsistence fishing.<br />

Here people live close to nature, so if there's no<br />

fish there's no dinner - though good catches of tiny<br />

silvery capenta are sun dried for leaner times. Stilted,<br />

wooden drying racks topped with grass mats dot the<br />

lake shore, some empty and some packed with drying<br />

capenta. Virtually everyone who lives in the area is a<br />

fisherman, bar a few freelance tour guides like Johnson.<br />

'Actually I'm from the capital Lilongwe,' says Johnson,<br />

'but there are too many people living there (780<br />

000), so I prefer to live here on the lake. It's quiet and<br />

beautiful.' But there are many more places in Malawi<br />

fitting this description too Mount Mulanje, the<br />

Zomba plateau and the Nyika plateau, Vwasa Marsh<br />

and Liwonde National Park, just to mention a few.<br />

At 3 000m, Mount Mulanje has the highest peak in southcentral<br />

Africa. The mountain covers 1 000km and looks<br />

more like an entire mountain range than a single mountain.<br />

It offers the longest roped climb in Africa 1 700m of it and<br />

the mountain is so high it has its very own climate. Ominous,<br />

though, is the tallest peak named Sapitwa, which means<br />

'Don't go there'. But if you do, the views are spectacular<br />

over vast tea plantations all the way to Mozambique.<br />

From the magical Zomba plateau Mount Mulanje is clearly<br />

visible. The bowl of the mountain top is a forest reserve,<br />

and down below the town of Zomba was once the capital<br />

and is now Malawi's university town. It has a colonial<br />

atmosphere and is threaded with streams and adorned with<br />

majestic mahogany trees. Just half an hour north of Zomba<br />

is Chingale, where craftsmen specialize in carving the<br />

uniquely Malawian 'chief 's chairs' from a single tree trunk.<br />

Also in southern Malawi, at the bottom tip of the lake,<br />

is Liwonde National Park, with the famous Shire River<br />

running through it. It's been a national park since 1979<br />

and has been restocked with wildlife that naturally<br />

occurred there, after it was shot out by trophy hunters.<br />

It was an ambitious conservation project that now draws<br />

nature lovers from around the world to experience<br />

African wildlife in thoroughly magnificent surroundings.<br />

58 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Fish market in the village of Cape Maclear, Malawi<br />

Colorful wooden fishing boats on the beach in Cape Maclear, Malawi<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 59


So too, the Nyika plateau in the north of the country.<br />

It's Malawi's biggest national park and one of the most<br />

unusual in Africa. High altitude rolling grassland, vast<br />

herds of eland, trout streams and prolific flowers, yet<br />

it's all dwarfed by the scale of the landscape. Ground<br />

orchids, proteas, irises and aloes grow here in a natural<br />

garden that is a wonderland for hikers, campers and<br />

cyclists. The eastern edge of the plateau forms a wall of<br />

the Great Rift Valley, though at times you may believe<br />

you have found a piece of Scotland. Nearby Vwaza<br />

Marsh Wildlife Reserve offers great sightings of elephant<br />

and buffalo, and guided walking safaris are offered too.<br />

Johnson's fire on the lakeshore has burnt to coals, and he's<br />

grilling fresh whole chambo on it. The pot of white rice is<br />

cooked and chopped garden tomatoes have been heated over<br />

the flames. 'This is what we eat most nights in the village,'<br />

he smiles, and we tuck in and eat in silence. Fresh and<br />

flavorsome, our fish dinner is superb, sitting on the beach<br />

of the Lake of Stars. Johnson smiles as we lick our fingers.<br />

In Chembe village in the distance, we can hear the chatter<br />

of fishermen over the glassy lake surface. They're preparing<br />

for another night out, fishing with paraffin lamps and<br />

moonbeams, from their dugout wooden canoes. They<br />

often fish in twos, dragging a net between them. Kampango<br />

and chambo are what they are after to feed their families,<br />

but everything caught is eaten. A couple of boats do have<br />

motors, but most are poled by hand for miles and miles.<br />

'The lake's not always this smooth,' says Johnson. 'In<br />

the windy season it gets very rough with big waves, just<br />

like the sea. But Malawians are good sailors, so it's not<br />

a problem and we still go fishing.' He smiles a flawless<br />

white teeth smile and puts more fish on our plates.<br />

'Please eat,' he says, with characteristic Malawian<br />

hospitality, 'there's no chambo in South Africa,<br />

and it's a long way to come back for seconds.'<br />

For more travel information: www.visitmalawi.mw<br />

Senga Bay Beach, Lake Malawi<br />

60 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Simple made perfect<br />

Delta Hotels by Marriott TM Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort<br />

DeltaVictoriaOPR<br />

DeltaVictoria<br />

DeltaOceanPoint


There aren’t many places on this planet that offer as<br />

many mind blowing experiences as the mountain<br />

community of Whistler, British Columbia on<br />

Canada's rugged West Coast. Whether you<br />

live just down the highway or you fly around the world<br />

to get there, Whistler delivers. The natural beauty alone<br />

makes it hard not to be wooed into the romantic spirit.<br />

My wife Rebecca and I made Nita Lake Lodge our re'treat'<br />

for the weekend and it was ideal for a couple who rarely<br />

get a weekend for themselves. Quiet, friendly, and 100%<br />

West Coast in design and setting, Nita Lake Lodge was<br />

the perfect launch point for a whirlwind romantic<br />

weekend for two. We’ve had getaway experiences in<br />

the past where we just frittered the time away, but here<br />

we had a planned itinerary and it turned out to be just<br />

the right balance of fun and relaxation. The fun list<br />

included Superfly Zipline tours, the Peak 2 Peak gondola<br />

experience and a night at Basalt, one of the village's<br />

culinary hot spots. Relaxation was comprised of two spa<br />

visits as well as a little down time at the lakeside lodge.<br />

62 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


An Insiders Guide to a Romantic Getaway to<br />

WHISTLER, BC<br />

skis not required!<br />

by: TODD TALBOT<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 63


THE SPA<br />

We had a couples massage at<br />

the Spa at Nita Lake Lodge.<br />

Equipped with a serene steam<br />

room, relaxation lounge and<br />

rooftop whirlpools which<br />

extended our massage into a few<br />

hours of pampered indulgence.<br />

Ironically one of the most talked<br />

about experiences in Whistler is<br />

a spot where you aren’t allowed<br />

to talk! Scandinave Spa is quite<br />

a draw for visitors to Whistler<br />

but we were still unsure of the<br />

hot/cold/rest method at first.<br />

Our one minute of cold started<br />

out as one second. But after<br />

three rounds of the treatment<br />

we were hooked, and Rebecca was stealing a little<br />

extra time in the cold pool when I wasn’t looking.<br />

>THE RESTAURANTS<br />

Basalt, Aura and Christine’s. We had three amazing<br />

meals that left us so satisfied, we just snacked for the<br />

rest of our visit. The food was fantastic at all three<br />

restaurants and the staff and servers took it to another<br />

level. Basalt impressed us with it’s intimate ambiance<br />

and bold decor: phallic sconces on the walls and<br />

copper pendants over a bar made of volcanic lava<br />

(the definition of basalt). Christine’s, at the peak<br />

of Blackcomb Mountain, is all about the view, and<br />

if you arrive in a thick fog you may want to wait a<br />

few minutes. We pushed back our reservation and<br />

waited out the fog which gave us not only a splendid<br />

view of the mountain but also the marmots playing<br />

outside. I was able to get a couple of amazing photos<br />

of our meal, enhanced with the naturally stunning<br />

mountain backdrop. At Aura, located overlooking the<br />

lake at our hotel, we enjoyed the<br />

offering of a trio which was over<br />

the top. We sat in the window<br />

indulging on the sunset and<br />

the deconstructed cheesecake!<br />

>THE ACTIVITIES<br />

The activities appear to be at<br />

the bottom of our list but they<br />

really weren’t. Everything about<br />

our weekend away was on<br />

point, including the experience<br />

at Superfly and the Peak 2<br />

Peak Gondola. Ironically, both<br />

endeavors have a treacherously<br />

deep expanse between two<br />

mountains to be crossed on<br />

cables. On the Peak To Peak,<br />

from those cables we were safely contained in a glassbottom<br />

gondola and were at ease to snap dramatic<br />

shots of the fog lingering over the mountain. At<br />

Superfly, we were balls to the wind and contained only<br />

by a harness and helmet. The guys at Superfly made<br />

our excursion for us. They injected the right amount<br />

of humor and information all the while ensuring<br />

everyone’s safety. They went above and beyond to<br />

solidify our opinion capturing what it is to experience<br />

the Whistler romance. From two opposing platforms<br />

they photographed our descent on the ‘romantic line”<br />

where Rebecca and I held hands while speeding between<br />

the trees to our final destination on the mountain.<br />

It did make me think about making a move to this<br />

mountain village. With one of the world’s greatest<br />

playgrounds at your doorstep, even the real estate<br />

savvy can be tempted!<br />

64 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 65


TRAVEL GEAR<br />

PRODUCTS FOR THE SAVVY TRAVELER<br />

66 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


It is increasingly harder to avoid paying checked baggage<br />

fees. Every airline charges them, and many are very strict<br />

about the width of your carry-on case. If you are a messy<br />

or unorganized packer, there are products on the market<br />

that make it easy to organize your suitcase and who knows -<br />

you just may fit everything into a carry-on and avoid costly<br />

baggage fees altogether!<br />

TUMI JEWELRY ROLL<br />

From Tumi's Voyageur collection comes this ultra-chic<br />

jewelry travel roll. Light as a feather and a must-pack to<br />

protect jewelry and accessories during travel, it features<br />

a smartly-organized interior with multiple pockets and<br />

special earring holders. tumi.com<br />

EAGLE CREEK PACKING CUBES<br />

Available in seven colors, the Pack-It Original Starter Set<br />

from Eagle Creek will help you organize the contents of<br />

your bag so you can travel with the assurance that you<br />

know where everything is. Sized perfectly to fit in most<br />

carry-on suitcases, it compresses 8-12 dress shirts or slacks,<br />

minimizing wrinkles. eaglecreek.com<br />

OUR TOP<br />

PICKS:<br />

PACK MORE IN<br />

LESS SPACE AND<br />

SAVE MONEY ON<br />

BAGGAGE FEES.<br />

ZIPLOC SUITCASE SPACE BAGS (NO VACUUM<br />

CLEANER REQUIRED!)<br />

The Space Bag <strong>Travel</strong> Bag by Ziploc is ideal for storing<br />

clothing and can compress up to 5 sweaters or shirts. It<br />

provides twice the storage and is airtight, waterproof, and<br />

reusable. No vacuum is required as compression is activated<br />

by rolling the bag. ziploc.com<br />

PACKING TIP:<br />

Disposable hospitalstyle<br />

shoe covers let<br />

you stuff footwear<br />

into any bag without<br />

getting clothing dirty.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 67


ICELAND<br />

a photographic journey<br />

Featured Photographer: Debbie Steeper<br />

Debbie Steeper, a<br />

photographer based<br />

in British Columbia,<br />

Canada, loves to<br />

photograph fashion,<br />

architecture and<br />

fascinating landscapes.<br />

With a 360 degree<br />

creative mind, Debbie<br />

continually seeks to<br />

find new places to<br />

explore and curate her photographic point of view in<br />

interesting ways. Debbie's work has been published in<br />

numerous fashion and lifestyle publications.<br />

CAMERA EQUIPMENT:<br />

Canon 5D MK III<br />

Canon 24 - 105 F4<br />

Canon 70 - 300 F4<br />

FOLLOW DEBBIE ONLINE:<br />

Website: www.debbiesteeper.com<br />

Instagram: @debbiesteeper<br />

68 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


The spectacular Gulfoss Waterfall, on the Hvítá River in Southwest Iceland, crashing to the canyon below.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 69


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Skeletal remains of a US Navy cargo plane rest on a surrealistic landscape of black sand.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 71


Strokkur Geyser erupts every four to eight minutes, spewing boiling water up to 100 feet in the air.<br />

72 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Spectacular waterfalls are a stunning backdrop<br />

for Icelandic homes at the base of the mountain.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 73


Pleasure boats moored in the harbor of Iceland's capital city, Reykjavík.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 75


76 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Summer cottages, with views to the snow covered mountains, offer<br />

pastoral respite from city life.<br />

Outbuildings are protected by shoring them up with rocks and hay to<br />

help keep out the strong winter winds.<br />

Hardy Icelandic horses dot the frozen landscapes, with their manes<br />

blowing in the punishing winds as they stand without any shelter<br />

through the harsh winter weather. This breed stock has remained<br />

pure, as Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the<br />

country and once a horse leaves, it may not return.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 77


ICELAND WAS THE LAST COUNTRY<br />

to be settled in Europe, when emigrants<br />

from Scandinavia and the British<br />

Isles first came to live on the island<br />

in the ninth and tenth century. It<br />

remains the most sparsely populated<br />

country in the continent. Iceland’s<br />

harsh natural environment has bred<br />

a resilient nation that has learned<br />

to exist under extreme conditions,<br />

and harness the natural resources<br />

they create for its own prosperity.<br />

Today, Iceland is a progressive, modern<br />

society that continuously ranks at the<br />

top of measurement's for quality of<br />

life and its economy is one of the most<br />

productive economies in the world,<br />

per-capita, and it is considered one of<br />

greenest eco countries on the planet.<br />

Iceland also boasts a prospering music<br />

scene, a burgeoning film industry,<br />

and Icelandic design is coming of age.<br />

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Iceland is a country of sharp contrasts. A place where fire and ice coexist.<br />

Where dark winters are offset by the summer’s midnight sun. A<br />

country where insular existence has spurred a rich and vibrant culture.<br />

ICELAND TOURISM<br />

Öxarárfoss Waterfall is easily accessible and lies within ÞingvellirNational Park.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 79


#WHERETONEXT<br />

CANOUAN ISLAND<br />

Unspoiled and virtually undiscovered, Canouan<br />

is the Caribbean's new found destination for<br />

discerning travelers. Located in the heart of St.<br />

Vincent and the Grenadines, and just west of<br />

Barbados, Canouan Island is only 3.5 miles long.<br />

This small oasis offers perfect weather and an<br />

abundance of natural beauty including calm water<br />

bays, scenic tropical coves, pristine white sand<br />

beaches and one of the Caribbean's largest coral<br />

reefs. A newcomer to the island is Pink Sands Club,<br />

a luxury resort that opened in October <strong>2016</strong>. Watch<br />

for it in the Winter <strong>2016</strong> issue of <strong>DRIFT</strong> magazine.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 81

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