Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine January 2017

JANUARY 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32
St. Pierre Walkabout
Part Two:
IN SEARCH OF
RHUM AND RUINS
by Chris Doyle
ALL ASHORE…
Up the Hill to Rhum
If you look at a map of St. Pierre, Martinique (see page 34), you will see that
behind the remains of the old theater that was destroyed in the volcanic eruption
of 1902 is Boulevard Laigret. This peaceful backroad, somewhat shaded by trees
with some lovely views, usually has no traffic. It is the best way to make the first
leg up the hill in search of rhum.
It joins the main road at Cité Artizanale, a group of businesses just off the road to
the right. These include an excellent machinist and a carpenter. Also a coffin maker,
whom I hope you will not need to visit. If you walk past these, you soon come to a
small road/pathway on your right, which takes you to a waterfall.
I used to write about this and come here for a quick dip whenever I was in St.
Pierre, but the trail, which did not seem to be public, became worse and worse until
I found myself scrambling over galvanized iron fences and skirting pig pens, at which
time I gave up. A major and expensive path is now being created, with big rocks and
bulldozers. This removes the hidden aspect of the falls and causes
you to notice that it is quite small. (All this work for that little
thing?) It might be very nice if it were turned it into a gardened area.
We shall see. In any case I was happy to have a way in again and,
even at its most unimpressive in the dry season, there is a little pool
you can stand in to cool off.
After the pool break, return to the main road and continue uphill.
This main road does have traffic, but the views over the valley are
pleasant. After ten or 15 minutes the road takes you over the river
and, shortly after, you leave the main highway for a small and
delightful road on the left. This takes you down to the river and
uphill again with several beautiful old trees.
Very shortly after this you come to Habitation Depaz, the large
distillery that is our main destination. It is hard not be impressed
with this place as you walk up the big driveway lined with palms,
set in lovely countryside, with the sleeping volcano Mt. Pelée staring
right down the road at you. If you go in the main entrance, you can
take a tour of everything by following the route marked with paint
(red, if I remember rightly). Do spend some time at the grand and
stately old millionaire’s plantation house with its formal garden,
and explore the back as well. The house is sometimes open to the
public, but never has been when I have gone.
—Continued on next page
A wall, seemingly frozen in time as it began to fall,
makes a fun photo opportunity