RAK - In the Footsteps of Bedouin

GOURMET TRAVELLER
RAS AL KHAIMAH
This page: falcon; old
buildings. Opposite,
clockwise from left:
Waldorf Ras Al Khaimah
golf course; Banyan Tree
Ras Al Khaimah;
mountaneous desert;
Rixos Bab Al Bahr;
Waldorf Ras Al Khaimah
main entrance
Unlike in neighbouring Dubai where the culture and
architecture is very modern, RAK’s relative obscurity has
allowed the Emirate to retain much of its traditional Arab
and Khaliji heritage. The hotels, although being western brands,
have embraced their Arabian architectural roots; the attractions may
be suited to foreign visitors, but that doesn’t mean they don’t give
an important insight into local Bedouin traditions; and the untouched
natural sights are simply spectacular.
Arguably one of the finest hotels in the UAE. the Waldorf Astoria
Ras Al Khaimah is nestled at the end of a private road in an
enclosed upmarket community, this imposing palace is a sandy
yellow beacon that encompasses every vision that visitors could
ever have about the mysterious unexplored Arabian lands. The
Waldorf has its own 350-metre-long private beach complete with
deckchairs and lifeguard, several pools, hideaways where the
only sound to be heard is the howling of the wind circling around
the rounded walls of the hotel, and 10 floors, each with its own
special charm.
The rooms aren’t big, they don’t offer nice views, they are
absolutely huge and they host views across the beach and rippling
sea that you might not expect when you visit the Middle East. Every
aspect of the rooms has been expertly designed to bridge the gap
between Arabian heritage and luxury. The walls and carved ceilings
have been painted in calming browns and beiges, the five
armchairs and sofas ensure that you can’t get tired when you walk
from one end of the room to the other (they really are that big!), and
the marble balcony is like a postcard picture come to life.
If you can drag yourself away from the splendour and majesty of
the Waldorf’s nine restaurants, in-room coffee machine, and
18-hole golf course, then you will get to see why RAK is quickly
emerging as a bucket list destination. You might choose to visit the
5-star pink-toned Nubian style villas of Cove Rotana Resort and its
Basilico Restaurant, sampling succulent lamb cutlets, cinnamon
sorbets and carpaccio salad. Or you could choose to venture a little
further away from the comfort of the Waldorf and explore what
nature brings to this forgotten Emirate.
You may think that staying in a 5-star hotel is far from a local
experience, but you are probably more likely to meet a local Emirati
whiling away their weekend in RAK’s hotels than anywhere else in
the state. The Rixos Bab Al Bahr is a triplet of pyramid-shaped
apartment blocks circled around what is essentially a self-enclosed
town; Italian, steak, Thai, French restaurants, nightclubs, pools and
bars, a private beach, and a kids’ area make this a unique offering
in RAK. No less Arabesque, and just as popular with locals, is the
DoubleTree Marjan Island, a villa and apartment-style hotel with “the
best Italian restaurant in the UAE” according to the Turkish head
chef at the Vespa restaurant. Emiratis are often seen here sampling
world cuisines.
Al Marjan Island is a man-made archipelago comprising 4 coral
islands shaped like a dolphin, a starfish, and a squid. Although Al
Marjan is technically artificial, it looks like it could have risen from
the deep like this. As you walk along the narrow roads that run
along these islands, pause for a moment, take a deep breath of
fresh Gulf air, and just take it all in. Listen to the speedboats roaring
past, the rhythmic humming of the wind rushing between the
luxurious villas, and the splashing of the sea as it hits the shore.
Only in the Gulf can you stand on a dolphin island and look back
to the mainland as the sun begins to set behind the mosques and
hotels of Ras Al Khaimah.
A short drive outside of central RAK, the Jazirat Al Hamra stands
in defiance against the oil boom that has brought extreme wealth to
the Emirates, hammering at the door of local Emiratis and reminding
them what life was like before the discovery of natural resources.
This former fishing village has been covered in a layer of sand,
creating an eerie ghost town; it’s almost like the desert is trying to
reclaim land that was only ever given to people temporarily. Now the
crumbling buildings and simple architecture sits in the middle of
reclaimed land, so you have to close your eyes and imagine that
you are surrounded by seas filled with traditional fishermen in the
dhows, but Al Hamra is impressive nonetheless.
Can you imagine hundreds of local 16th century soldiers standing
in rows, complete with their white kanduras and swords overlooking
the coast? When you visit Dhayah Fort, a towering square stone
fortification in the mountains surrounding the city that was originally
built to defend against a perceived British attack, these images
really come to life. Local RAK citizens are proud of their formerly
tribal identity; Dhayah and its stunning natural surroundings
undoubtedly contributed to protecting the way of life that some
Bedouin tribes still live by high in the Jebel Jais mountains.
Ras Al Khaimah is an Emirate of contrasts. At one end of the
Sheikhdom you can find endless orange sand dunes for as far as
the eyes can see; fine rolling blankets of sand cover the surprisingly
smooth roads that twist and wind through the desert like a snake
chasing its prey. And camels strip the acacia
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA