THOM 7 | Fall / Winter 2016



Julia Reed’s

Deviled Eggs

Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns,

and Other Southern Specialties (2008)

Yield: 24 deviled eggs

1 dozen eggs

¼ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup Dijon mustard

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt & freshly ground white pepper

Finely snipped fresh chives for garnish

Place the eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold

them in a single layer and cover with tap water. Bring

to a boil, cover, turn off the heat and let sit for 15

minutes. Drain and run under cold water until the

eggs are completely cold. Peel eggs and cut in half

lengthwise. Remove the yolks and rub through a

fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Add the mayonnaise,

mustard and butter; mix until smooth. Stir in the

lemon juice, cayenne, salt and white pepper to taste.

Place in a pastry bag or Ziploc bag with a cut-off

corner. Neatly pipe the mixture into the egg whites by

pressing on the bag. Sprinkle the eggs with the chives.

I want Julia Reed to talk about the

spirit of the South, but all she wants

to talk about is food.

I get it. Hot off a book tour of her

most recent collection of recipes and

stories, Julia Reed’s South, the former

New York Times food writer clearly

has cuisine on the brain. When

I press my editorial agenda, she

expertly presses back with her vastly

larger editorial experience.

“What we always have to explain

to the Yankees,” she begins, having

just learned I hail from the Pacific

Northwest, “is that the South in not

a monolithic place. Even in my home

state of Mississippi, if you go from

the Delta to the hills to the coast,

you’re in three different countries.

It’s like Bosnia. That’s the reason why

my book is called Julia Reed’s South,

because it’s my personal take on it.”

Food is Love

Outside of her Mississippi Deltan

accent and palpable authenticity,

Julia best reflects her regional

sensibilities as most Southerners

do, through story. The Greenville,

Mississippi, native recalls how she

was living in Manhattan when the

two planes crashed into the Twin

Towers. “I was in Midtown and I saw

the tower fall and I immediately

turned around and started walking

about as fast as I could back

uptown,” she explains. “I went to

my butcher because I was scared

he was going to close. My mother

taught me that every time something

bad happens, you’ve got to get a



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