Eatdrink #50 November/December 2014

Serving 

eatdrinkFREE 

London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario 

№ 50 • November/December 2014 

www.eatdrink.ca 

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE 

Tableside at 

Michael’s 

On The Thames 

A Classic Celebration Destination 

Special for the 

Holidays 

Our Annual 

Epicurean 

Gift Guide 

& More! 

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music 

FEATURING 

Chocolate Barr’s 

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur 

Old East Village 

Food for Thought 

The London Wine & Food Show 

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better 

ALSO: Christmas in Bayfield | SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy

Savouring the magic 

of STRATFORD 

Come enjoy Stratford’s heritage district wrapped in fresh cedar boughs 

and sparking lights as you wander the Victorian Christmas Trail 

collecting stocking stuffers along the way. 

Take an international gastronomic journey at dinner with the Stratford 

Chefs School students. Celebrate the upcoming season with gourmet 

ideas for the holidays and special tastings from our popular Tea and 

Chocolate to Blue Cheese and Port or a “Griswald” Supper Club dinner. 

And lots of Christmas family cheer - from a Christmas family tradition, 

A Wind in the Willows Christmas to holiday arts and crafts shows. 

Renew your holiday spirit on horse-drawn carriage rides and strolling 

the Chocolate Trail. 

NOVEMBER 

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners at The Prune 

15-16 Rotary Arts and Crafts Show 

22 Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting, The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop 

29-30 Heritage Downtown Christmas Open House 

DECEMBER 

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners at The Prune 

6 Community Messiah, St. Joseph’s Church 

13 Savour Stratford Tea and Chocolate Tasting 

17-30 A Wind in the Willows Christmas, Masonic Hall 

For all our holiday events visitstratford.ca/christmas

Book Your Festive Holiday Lunch or Dinner! 

Spa Open House 

November 18, 5–8PM 

Gorgeously Renovated Bedrooms, 

Drawing Rooms & Meeting Spaces 

NEW FALL MENU 

In-House Spa, Offering Pedicures, 

Manicures, Facials & Body Treatments 

Restaurant Open 7 Days a Week for Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Brunch 

Executive Chef Trevor Stephens 

Toll Free 1-855-432-5554 

www.idlewyldinn.com 

LONDON’S PREMIER HISTORIC INN, NEWLY RESTORED

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario 

• 




Holidays 

Our Annual 

Epicurean 

Gift Guide 

& More! 


ALSO: 

FREE 

FEATURING 






| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy 

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario 

• 


THE HOLIDAY I SUE 

On The Thames 



Holidays 

Our Annual 

Epicurean 

Gift Guide 

& More! 


ALSO: 

FREE 

FEATURING 






| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy 

eatdrink 

 

inc. 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

Think Global. 

Read Local. 

Publisher 

Managing Editor 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com 

Copy Editor 

Social Media Editor 

Advertising Sales 

Finances 

Graphics 

Writers 

Photographers 

Kym Wolfe 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Jane Antoniak, David Chapman, Darin Cook, 

Dave Hammond, David Hicks, Antony John, 

Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery, Tracy Turlin, 

Claudia Viani, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden, 

Rick Young 

Steve Grimes, Bruce Fyfe 

Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349 

Mailing Address 

Website 

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© 2014 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink 

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission 

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues 

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the 

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink 

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily 

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions 

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. 

eatdrink 

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE 

Tableside at 

Michael’s 

On The Thames 

eatdrink 

Tableside at 

Michael’s 

eatdrink.ca 

Read every issue online, 

no matter which device you prefer. 

Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues 

Plus! 

New Stories Only Online 

Plus! 

OUR COVER 

Michael’s On The Thames’ Sommelier/ 

Captain Andrew Fratepietro shows great 

showmanship flambéing tableside. 

Photograph by Steve Grimes 

(www.grimesphoto.com)

Celebrating 

46years 

in the printing industry 

www.mtprint.com

contents ISSUE № 50 

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE 

8 Food for Thought, in Old East Village 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

8 

RESTAURANTS 

20 

12 Tableside at Michael’s On The Thames 


12 

CULINARY RETAIL 

15 Chocolate Barr’s Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur 

By DAVID HICKS 

20 The eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide 

ROAD TRIPS 

24 Christmas in Bayfield 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

28 

SPOTLIGHT 

28 The SmartAPP Stands Out 


15 

FARMERS & ARTISANS 

41 The Food Web: Part 4 — Autumn to Winter 

By ANTONY JOHN 

NEW & NOTABLE 

32 The BUZZ 

TRAVEL 

43 Get Deliciously Lost in Italy 

24 

By CLAUDIA VIANII 

IN THE GARDEN 

47 Decorating Outside In 

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN 

WINE 

49 The 2015 London Wine & Food Show 

By CECILIA BUY 

47 

BEER MATTERS 

52 What to Give the Discerning Foamhead 

By THE MALT MONK 

COOKBOOKS 

55 Jamie’s Comfort Food by Jamie Oliver 

55 

Review by TRACY TURLIN 

BOOKS 

59 Book Ideas for Fiction-loving Foodies 

Review by DARIN COOK 

59 

62 

BASED ON THE DREAMWORKS ANIMATION 

MOTION PICTURE AND THE BOOK BY WILLIAM STEIG 

Book and Lyrics by David Lindsay-Abaire. Music by Jeanine Tesori. 

THEATRE 

62 On the Boards: Holiday Theatre Offerings 

By RICK YOUNG 

MUSIC 

66 Sound Bites: Seasonal Treats 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

THE LIGHTER SIDE 

70 The Not So Family Christmas 

By DAVID CHAPMAN 

THE BUZZ 

70 

32 

52

SARNIA 

& POINT 

EDWARD 

LAMBTON 

SHORES 

ST.CLAIR 

RIVER 

DISTRICT 

CENTRAL 

LAMBTON 

navigate 

№ 50 | November/December 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 7 

great 

TO 

TIMES 

TOURISM SARNIA-LAMBTON 

in 

LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH OUR 

VACATION PLAYGROUND! 

Lambton 

County 

Starbright Christmas shows: Nov. 25-Dec. 3, 2014 • Victoria Playhouse Petrolia 

CELEBRATE 

holidays 

the 

with US! 

call or click for your 

FREE travel guide and map 

also available at southwestern ontario visitor centres 

800.265.0316 

tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

8 www.eatdrink.ca 

food writer at large 


in the Old East Village 

№ 50 | November/December 2014 


There is an on-going surge of 

redevelopment that has gradually 

strengthened the vitality of the Old 

East Village (OEV) neighbourhood. 

It’s not exactly classic gentrification — 

instead, it’s a more inclusive grass-roots 

kind of rebirth, one that reflects and 

accommodates the diversity of the OEV’s 

residents and business owners while 

encouraging community engagement. 

The Old East Village Business Improvement 

Area (OEVBIA) is a community-driven 

urban reinvestment and revitalization initiative 

working in partnership with the Old East 

Village Community Association (OEVCA) and 

a variety of community partners to help stimulate 

neighbourhood stability and encourage a 

blending of viable commercial activities along 

and off the Dundas Street corridor. 

According to Dr. Jason Gilliland (HEAL 

& Department of Geography at Western 

and OEVIA executive board member) “The 

OEVBIA and its advisors have been working 

on an economic development to strengthen 

the area as a food district.” 

To the uninitiated, the OEV has a longstanding 

reputation as a destination for 

community, health and social service 

Unique Food Attitudes 

The Root Cellar Organic Café 

agencies. The area has also become the 

undisputed centre of all things counterculture 

and the centre of the city’s edgy 

art and music scene, as well as a growing 

restaurant cluster on the corridor. Sarah 

Merritt, manager of the OEVBIA, observes 

“The spacing of the food businesses and 

restaurants on Dundas Street is creating a 

very walkable food district”. 

The neighbourhood contains 28% of the 

city’s listed and designated heritage properties 

as well as some key city venues. Dundas Street 

is home to the London Clay Arts Centre, 

the Palace Theatre, the Aeolian Performing 

Arts Centre and the Western Fair Farmers’ & 

Artisans’ Market (WFFAM). 

A revival of culinary entrepreneurs and 

food enthusiasts has gravitated to the OEV 

and has added to the mix of established 

culinary businesses like Mykonos, Tony’s of 

London, Vietnam Restaurant and True Taco 

Authentic Comedor Latino. 

Creative, independent, and cultishly 

popular restaurants and cafés like The Root 

Cellar, Unique Food Attitudes, Momo’s at 

the Market, Ten Up Chinese and Sushi, 

The Starving Artist Bistro, Asmara Caffee 

and East Village Coffeehouse have added 

another level of diversity and accessibility 

to the cultural fabric and the evolving 

restaurant/café scene in the neighbourhood. 

A business like The Wisdom Tea Shop is


an example of OEV landlords taking the 

ultimate plunge by opening their own small 

businesses in their own buildings. 

The WFFAM continues to serve as an 

anchor for the village by providing a setting for 

enhanced culinary programming, and cultural 

and civic activities that complement the 

market and its location in a neighbourhood 

previously identified as a food desert. 

The market itself has a plethora of more 

than sixty small-scale food makers that 

include Saucy Meats, which brings together 

small-scale farmers, butchers and customers 

through a unique artisanal business model; 

Café Bourgeois chef/caterer Mary Ann Wrona, 

whose healthy catering and gourmet-to-go 

café form a repertoire of the Polish culinary 

tradition; and Downie Street Bakehouse, 

which features from-scratch, hand-shaped, 

artisanal and specialty breads made with time 

and care by baker Alan Mailloux. 

Visionary culinary entrepreneur and 

WFFAM owner Dave Cook says, “Market 

management supports smaller-scale 

producers and farmers in an economic 

environment that’s challenging for anyone 

not performing industrial-scale agriculture, 

with opportunities for informal mentorship”. 

As an informal incubator for emerging 

businesses the WFFAM has evolved into 

a regional culinary epicentre for smallscale 

food makers and farmers, “foodies” 

and innovators. Cook, who is at the 

vanguard of local culinary innovation, is 

looking to open a 20,000 to 25,000 square 

foot food production facility in the OEV 

to accommodate two to three anchor 

tenants (including his Fire Roasted Coffee 

All ’Bout Cheese 

Momo’s at the Market 

Company) and other spillover market 

opportunities and interests. Cook estimates 

that the current economic impact from the 

WFFAM is $7.5 million annually. 

Various food businesses have emerged 

from the market to open or expand into 

retail and wholesale businesses in the 

OEV, downtown London or other farmers’ 

markets. Miki Hambleck’s Hungary Butcher, 

Rick Peori’s All ’Bout Cheese, and Theo and 

Gerda Korthof’s Artisan Bakery have all set 

up shop on Dundas Street across from the 

market. On the Move Organics, a premium 

market vendor, recently opened a pop-up 

retail location on the corridor close to its 

progeny, the Root Cellar Organic Café. 

The market continues to be home 

to an evolving community of culinary 

professionals who are actively fostering the 

development of a distinctive food district 

and encouraging innovation in food and 

sustainable strategies for the development 

of quality culinary practices. Cook’s many 

business interests interlock and promote 

one another, and the success of the WFFAM 

illustrates the potential economic spin-off of 

a food production facility in OEV. 

The OEVBIA continues to work on a 

local economic development plan for the 

neighborhood that involves the creation 

of an “agri-food district,” and considers 

building stronger linkages between the 

farmers’ market and the neighboring 

commercial corridor as a central objective. 

In the meantime, there continues to be 

discussion regarding an eco-food hub and 

a possible social enterprise grocery store in 

the OEV. 

The following page highlights just some of 

the interesting dining options found in the 

Old East Village:



The Root Cellar Organic Café 

Community-focused, local, sustainable 

and accountable are the words used to 

describe the Root Cellar’s philosophy. With 

an emphasis on “from scratch” seasonal 

menus, the culinary team led by chef Dani 

Gruden-Murphy procures ingredients from 

local organic farmers for this hip artisanal 

culinary collective and London’s first 

co-operatively owned nanobrewery. 

623 Dundas Street, 519-719-7675 

True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino 

True Taco continues to wow diehard tacolovers 

by providing superior 

Mexican and El Salvadorian 

cuisine in new and much 

larger premises. An allday 

breakfast of huevos 

rancheros (sunny-side up 

eggs with homemade sauce 

and locally-sourced beans 

and tortillas) is a staple. 

Tacos and pupusas are 

house specialities. Burritos, 

tacquitos, quesadillas, 

enchiladas and tamales are 

also on offer. The standout 

is the chicken Milanesa. 789 

Dundas Street, 519-433-0909 

Unique Food Attitudes 

The success of Barbara Czyz’s foodiemobbed 

bistro is due to its modern 

European cuisine, chalkboard offerings, and 

attentive vibe. Specialties include goulash 

with potato pancakes, krokiety (crepes) and 

red borsch made from beets, slow cooked 

cabbage rolls, and tender peirogi with sweet 

and savoury fillings. 697 Dundas Street, 519-649-2225 

Mykonos 

Heidi and Bill Vamvalis are pillars of hospitality, 

and have been serving Mediterranean 

cuisine and traditional English Fish and 

Chips for over 38 years. Mykonos sports a 

festive covered patio at the back of the restaurant, 

which is heated during the cooler 

weather. The Mykonos Platter with moussaka, 

pastichio, souvlaki, tsaziki, tiropitaki, 

spanakopita, loukanica and dolmathaki is 

outstanding. 572 Adelaide Street N., 519-434-6736 

The Spring (You Yi Cun) 

An OEV mainstay, The Spring has recently 

changed hands. The décor could still use 

a rethink. The signature wonton “purses” 

— house-made pork dumplings — are 

True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino 

browned to pan-fried perfection. We love 

the sautéed Asian eggplant with chili and 

sauce, al dente long green beans bathed in 

a fiery sauce, spring rolls and crispy deepfried 

wontons. 768 Dundas Street, 519-266-4421 

Chi Hi Vietnamese 

Chef Trinh’s Chi Hi Vietnamese restaurant 

features traditional Vietnamese fare 

including bánh mì (black bean tofu or 

beef subs), pad Thai, vegetarian Singapore 

noodles, beef noodle brisket soup, and black 

bean tofu vermicelli. 791 Dundas Street, (beside 

Aeolian Hall at Rectory) 519-601-8448 

Tony’s of London 

Tony’s Famous Italian 

has been serving pizza, 

panzerotti, lasagna, 

chicken parmigiana and 

other Italian-inspired 

comfort foods in this 

cavernous dining room 

since 1961. 980 Dundas Street, 

519 544 4520 

The Vietnam Restaurant 

Long Duc Ngo, the 

welcoming hands-on 

proprietor, offers a selection 

of accessibly priced noodle, rice and 

soup dishes. The substantive menu includes 

superb spring rolls, pho, sizzling hot pots, and 

many seafood and chicken dishes. Pho Dac 

Biet is the signature rice noodle broth with 

rare and brisket beef, beef balls and tripe with 

fresh herbs. 1074 Dundas Street, 519-457-0762 

Thai Taste 

This family-owned unassuming hole-in-thewall, 

with cramped booth seating offers superior 

Thai food. Served with pride and attention 

to detail Thai Taste is an OEV favourite. 

Don’t be put off by the narrow interior—the 

food shines. 671 Dundas Street, 519-646-2909 

Starving Artist Bistro and Lounge 

This small open-kitchen bills itself as a café, 

breakfast and brunch restaurant. This is 

where you’ll find some amazing work from 

local artists displayed in the cozy dining area. 

Try the First Nation’s bannock tacos if they 

are available. 680 Dundas Street, 226-680-0526 

BRYAN LAVERY is a contributing editor and eatdrink’s 

Food Writer at Large.

Authentic 

CULINARY 

EXPERIENCES 

FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON'S CULINARY CULTURE 

IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR 

www.londontourism.ca/culinary 

TOURISM 

tourismlondon 

@tourism_london 

LONDON 

C A N A D A



restaurants 


Tableside Cooking at Michael’s On The Thames, in London 


Photography by STEVE GRIMES 

My passion for French cooking 

was ignited when I travelled 

through France at age 22. A 

year later I was asked to run the 

kitchen at The Vineyard, one of Toronto’s 

first wine bars. In those days, French 

cuisine dominated the fine dining scene. 

My mentor was a serious gastronome who 

informed and educated my palate by wining 

and dining me in the most prestigious 

fine dining institutions in Toronto. All of 

these establishments — Napoléon, Three 

Small Rooms, Auberge Gavroche, Fenton’s, 

Les Cavaliers and the dining rooms at 

the King Edward Hotel and the Westbury 

Hotel — were French, and enjoyed august 

reputations and discerning clientele. The 

same welcoming hospitality, and the same 

discreet but impeccable service were 

extended to everyone. 

Tastes are transitory and altered sensibilities 

have brought changes to the cuisine and 

classic styles of restaurant service that I 

esteemed in my early career. Good value to the 

patron does not mean cheap prices. It refers to 

the quality and quantity of the food, the level of 

service, and the décor and ambience. 

To my mind, French food has always 

been the cuisine synonymous with refined 

Enjoy an intimate atmosphere with 

comfortable and private dining areas. 

In the Sun Room, Michael’s diners can enjoy a view of 

the Thames river and surrounding parkland 

taste and, to some extent, it still is. To this 

day I appreciate the skill and showmanship 

of French-style service. French service is 

distinguished by the fact that all or part of 

the preparation of the dish, or at least the 

finishing of it, is done in the dining room. This 

type of service requires a cart or gueridon and 

organized mise en place to facilitate cooking 

at the side of the patron’s table. Tableside 

preparations might involve sautéing or 

flambéing an item, or carving it, boning a fish 

or composing a salad from scratch. 

Classic tableside cooking is part of the 

innate charm of Michael’s On The Thames. 

The restaurant is at once appealing and 

traditional, and yet old-school: Caesar salad 

for two, prepared tableside, as well as 

flaming dishes, also done tableside 

including whole Dover sole meunière, 

pepper steak “Dorchester” with 

brandy demi-glace, cherries jubilee 

and strawberries alla Marco. 

If you’re hungry for steak Diane 

the dining room staff will create that 

at a tableside cart for you too. It is 

not a classical French recipe, though 

its preparation is at least a cousin to 

the French (steak coated in cracked 

peppercorns accompanied by a 

cognac and butter sauce). It’s all about 

elegance, presentation, and personal


At select times during dinner, a rotating cast of talented pianists 

play sophisticated classics and jazz on the baby grand piano 

Maria Homolay prepares Caesar salad, 

with French-style tableside service 

attention. The showmanship starts with a 

tender cut of beef tenderloin pounded thin 

and pan-fried in butter to your preference. 

It then is topped with a rich sauce of more 

butter, shallots, and mushrooms, and 

flambéed with brandy and a splash of fresh 

cream. An intoxicating wine bouquet and 

fragrant beef aroma emanates from the pan. 

The same goes for the Brome Lake duck à 

l’orange, whose boozy sauce will be whisked 

and flambéed a few inches from your table. 

One evening while dining with my nephew, 

service professional Maria Homolay served 

us juicy-on-the-inside, seared and roasted 

Chateaubriand. The Chateaubriand, which 

can be ordered for a table of two, is served in 

the traditional manner accompanied 

by a variety of vegetables and crowned 

with béarnaise sauce. Chateaubriand 

and béarnaise sauce have a natural 

kinship, with the sauce of clarified 

butter emulsified in egg yolks, 

white wine vinegar and flavoured 

with tarragon playing off the beef 

tenderloin. There was naturalness to 

the way Homolay moved and worked 

— a professionalism that has made 

many dining experiences at Michael’s 

On The Thames memorable. It offers 

classic French flair for diners who 

prefer a bit of finesse while dining— 

and appreciate a bit of interaction 

with their tableside preparation. 

For thirty-one years and counting, 

Michael’s On The Thames has been 

regarded as London’s “celebration 

destination,” and for good cause. 

Owner-operator Brian Stewart, 

executive chef Denis Clavette, 

kitchen manager Dave Wyler and their 

kitchen brigade consistently give patrons 

what they want, and that is why the restaurant 

remains popular. There is no attempt to be 

trendy or cutting-edge at Michael’s. 

Besides tableside cooking, there are prix 

fixe menus and many à la carte selections that 

mostly stick to tried and true classics. There is 

Cobb salad, colossal shrimp stuffed with crab 

and wrapped in pancetta and finished with 

a Pernod beurre blanc drizzle, baked west 

coast halibut with lemon beurre noisette, 

and even the Valencian classic, paella. In 

Chef’s hands, paella is a fragrant combination 

of Metzger’s chorizo, duck confit, mussels, 

scallops, shrimp and saffron rice. 

Standing, from left: Owner/Founder Brian Stewart and 

Sommelier/Captain Andrew Fratepietro. Seated, General 

Manager Joelle Lees and Sous Chef Chris Morrisson



1 

2 

1 Steamed Mussels 

“Meunière”— cultivated 

mussels steamed in white 

wine, fresh basil, garlic, 

and butter. 

2 Insalata Alla Caprese 

— sliced tomatoes, 

Bocconcini cheese, and 

basil leaves drizzled with 

extra virgin olive oil, 

balsamic vinegar, sea salt, 

and fresh ground pepper. 

3 Rack of lamb roasted with 

fresh mint and finished 

with demi-glace and port 

wine. 

4 Jumbo black tiger-eye 

shrimp cocktail served 

with traditional cocktail 

sauce. 

4 3 

An experienced entrepreneur (Stewart 

owned Sam the Record Man franchises), and 

inspired by his inveterate restaurant patron 

father’s appreciation for fine dining, Stewart 

recognized he’d found the ideal location for his 

new endeavour the minute he saw the former 

tile and cement warehouse which gave way to 

Guildwood Lighting in the early 1960s. 

The restaurant has an intimate atmosphere 

with its private dining areas, an enclosed sun 

room beside the Thames River, the sophistication 

of a baby grand piano overlooking the 

dining room, oak decor, tables with plenty of 

elbow room and a stone fireplace. A rotating 

cast of pianists that include David Priest and 

Dean Harrison play classics and jazz on the 

baby grand at select times during dinner. 

Until a few years ago, Jack Di Carlo had 

been the maître d’ at Michael’s since 1986. 

He created a lasting impression on the 

clientele, greeting and serenading customers 

and cementing the restaurant’s reputation 

as a romantic dining destination. It is a 

reputation that endures. 

General Manager Joelle Lees and certified 

sommelier/captain Andrew Fratepietro 

are warm and hospitable and, in addition 

to applying their skills and charisma as 

restaurant professionals, are focused on 

creating great dining experiences. Good 

service is one of the primary things diners 

consider in judging the value of a restaurant. 

The service here is a welcome throwback, 

countering the prevalent attitude of casual 

service that favours over-familiar waiters 

and high pressure upselling tactics. 

Fratepietro’s wine list is a virtuous 

representation of the style and cuisine of the 

restaurant and has options for many different 

types of wine drinkers, both in terms of price 

point and style. There are some excellent 

consignment wines on the list. 

While many restaurateurs and chefs are 

working to comprehend and respond to the 

expectations of the food savvy Generation 

X and the Millennial Generation, Michael’s 

remains an intentional and charming 

anachronism while appealing to the 

tastes and preferences of its changing 

demographic. 

Michael’s On The Thames 

1 York Street, London • 519-672-0111 

www.michaelsonthethames.com 

open for lunch weekdays 

open for dinner 7 nights a week 

BRYAN LAVERY (ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com) is eatdrink’s 

Food Writer at Large. 

STEVE GRIMES (www.grimesphoto.com) is a regular 

contributor of photographs to eatdrink.


culinary retail 

Raising the Chocolate Barr 

New Digs for Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur 

By DAVID HICKS 

How can a small 

city cope with the 

presence of not one 

or two, but three, 

specialty chocolate shops? It is 

a burden the locals seem willing 

to embrace. In fact, one of the 

faux marketing jokes around 

Stratford is, “Come for the plays, 

stay for the chocolate.” 

All the more reason, 

now that Chocolate Barr’s 

Candies is settled into their 

new downtown location. Last winter, 

Derek and Jacqueline Barr bought the 

downtown heritage building dating from 

1889, originally the residence of a railway 

engineer. Renovations began on the former 

Sun Room Restaurant in February and they 

re-opened in July. “It was a six-year search 

[for a building] and a six-month renovation,” 

says Derek, “And we wondered if we’d hit 

our July opening deadline, but we’re here 

and loving it now.” 

Moving from their decade-long residency 

on Stratford’s busy Ontario Street raised 

a few eyebrows in town. “We had a great 

landlord, great foot traffic and good 

Chocolate Barr’s new location, on George Street 

visibility,” says Jacqueline. “But dark tinted 

and curtained windows on the sunny side 

of Ontario St. wasn’t great for displaying 

perishable food items,” she says with a smile. 

“By buying and building, we could 

design and renovate for the store layout 

and displays we wanted, with more of an 

open kitchen concept so people can see the 

way we work. That, and accommodating a 

35-foot cooling tunnel.” 

Derek & Jacqueline Barr 

Jaccqueline Barr, behind the counter


Chili peppers and fruit are prepared for incorporation 

into chocolates and candies 

What to choose? The truffle counter offers an array of 

choices — standards and weekly specials 

Cupcakes, and custom orders — just ask! 

Dramatic Timing? 

Still, given how Stratford’s retail sector can be 

theatre-dependent, it’s forgivable to wonder 

about the timing. Hoisting a small vat of 

molten caramel with his “lead systems and 

production guy,” Matt Gardner, Derek says, 

“Actually, we are twice as busy already, and 

summer is our slower period because of all the 

chocolate holidays [that fall outside summer]: 

Thanksgiving, Hallowe’en, Christmas, New 

Year’s Eve, St. Valentine’s Day and Easter.” 

“We have 80 or 90 regular customers who 

come in throughout the year, and because 

we are in a direct sightline from the Avon 

Theatre and Studio Theatre now, we’re 

seeing an influx of new people.” 

“Special events like Savour Stratford and 

the Stratford Chocolate Trail tourism program 

help too.” (And it probably doesn’t hurt 

customer traffic that they’re right across the 

street from Stratford’s downtown LCBO store.) 

The Rheo Grande 

Derek was born and raised in Stratford, 

and Rheo Thompson, the doyen of mint 

chocolate, was a family friend. Derek worked 

for him through high school. “I was actually 

headed for a career in mining, but then 

Bre-X [mining company scandal] happened 

and Ontario industry hit hard times. So I 

came home and Rheo suggested I work at 

the shop again until I figured things out. And 

I was there from 1999 to 2003.” 

In the meantime, he met Jacqueline. “So 

here was a great guy who made chocolate for 

a living … What was there to think about?” 

When the Barrs went out on their own in 

2003, “It was crazy — we were busy right off 

the bat,” says Derek. 

But how does it work in a town of 30,000 

to be one of three chocolate shops, within 

two blocks of the venerable Rheo Thompson 

Candies and Rocky Mountain Chocolate 

Factory? “Stratford just loves its chocolate and 

we have a history with handmade chocolate 

that goes back to at least the 1950s,” says 

Derek, pointing to the century-old marble 

cooling table. “Having three specialty shops 

in town just makes the town even more of a 

destination. Our competition does a great job, 

and I think we make each other better.” 

You Say “Cocoa,” I Say “Cacao” 

“Candy Makers, Chocolate Makers and 

Chocolatiers … I guess we do all of them, 

including small-batch items where we buy raw 

cacao beans, roast and grind them, and use it 

in specialty items. We have fresh Bean-to-Barr 

single origin chocolate from either Trinidad, 

Bolivia or Peru at any given time,” says Derek. 

“Our cacao is fair trade and organic, and the 

sugar is organic, but we don’t major on those 

points,” adds Jacqueline. “Our focus is that our 

Bear-to-Barr chocolate is soy-free and while 

our facilities don’t allow us to label anything 

as such, we do make a range of dairy-free and 

sugar-free items available.” 

Experimentation and innovation keep the 

candy game interesting for the Barrs. Jack’s 

Barr (nicknamed for Jacqueline) is among 

the most popular, made with 70% chocolate, 

toffee, salt and pepper. Or there’s the 

Espresso Barr made with espresso coffee …


Even the packaging gets that extra special touch 

no chocolate, just powdered espresso beans, 

cream and sugar. 

Trifling with Truffles 

But the showstopper is Barr’s unique 

range of truffles that pushes confectionery 

boundaries: Balsamic Vinegar Truffle, 

Honey & Black Pepper, Chili Pepper, Scotch 

Bonnet, Roasted Garlic, Curry, Molé, Goat’s 

Cheese (with cheese from C’est Bon), Ancho 

Chili (Antony John’s Soiled Reputation), The 

Macallan 12 Year Old Scotch, Jameson Irish 

Whiskey, Guinness Stout … and usually a 

“New This Week” item. 

“We like to do random things to keep it 

fun,” says Derek. “Like when a farmer walks 

in with five pounds of dried chili peppers. 

What are you going to do?” 

Barr’s has shipped chocolate as far as 

Japan, “but for a local martial arts group I 

did series of truffles using Japanese flavours, 

including wasabi, soy sauce, green tea, ginger 

and plum wine. They turned out great.” 

So, any flops? Jacqueline rolls her eyes. 

“Yes! Lemon Zest & Thyme Butter Ganache. I 

told him it wouldn’t work.” 

Derek just shrugs again, with his wellknown 

mischievous smile, “If you’re going 

to do this seven days a week, you have to try 

these things.” 

Chocolate Barr’s Candies 

55 George St. West, Stratford 

519-272-2828 

www.chocolatebarrs.com 

monday–saturday: 9am–6pm 

sunday: 10am–5pm 

DAVID HICKS is a Stratford writer and branding consultant 

who does not have a chocolate problem. Unless it’s all gone. 

For cooking at its finest, we offer steam ovens, true convection ovens, gas and induction cooktops and a microwave/grill combination. 

For cooling, we sell the top European brand – Liebherr – featuring everything from built-in refrigerators to temperature-controlled wine 

coolers. We even offer a humidity-controlled humidor for indoor leisure and an outdoor refrigerator for the pool/patio area. 

For lifestyle appliances that are second to none, make the relaxing drive to Belgrave Ontario. We will demonstrate, 

in our live showroom, how you can cook, bake, cool and preserve with some of the most energy-efficient appliances available. 

THE EUROPEAN APPLIANCE STORE 

Everything an appliance should be 

39822 Belgrave Road, Belgrave ON – just North of Blyth www.theeuropeanappliancestore.com 1-877-543-2437

Stratford is 

more than 

great theatre 

— 10 Craft Beers on Tap — 

INN | RESTAURANT 

Book your Christmas 

party with us and stay 

overnight in one of our 

boutique guest rooms. 

Packages start at $99/person 

PRIVATE 

DINING ROOM 

great for staff or family 

CHRISTMAS 

PARTIES 

CHRISTMAS 

PARTIES 

NO room rental fee 

BRUNCH • LUNCH • DINNER • EVENTS 

104 Ontario Street, Stratford | 519.271.92 02 | www.mercerhall.ca 

Get up-to-date info on our series of exciting events! fb.com/mercerhall twitter.com/MHResto

118 Ontario St., Stratford 

519-814-9439 

themilkywhey.ca 

Beautiful made-to-order gift baskets 

are available for the foodies on your list!



culinary retail 

The eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide 

Suggestions for the Foodies in Your Life 

It's that time of year again, 

and the "it's better to give 

than to receive" mantra 

is much easier to embrace 

when you are able to avoid the mall and all 

of its frantic energy. Instead, find yourself 

an independent retailer who has done a lot 

of the work of finding original gift ideas for 

you. Whether it's a big present for someone 

close to your heart, a hostess gift for your 

friend who always goes all out to celebrate 

the season, or a small 

"stocking stuffer" gift 

just to put some extra fun into 

someone's life, there are plenty of new 

and exciting products to choose from this 

season. We put the word out that we were 

looking for suggestions, and this is what we 

came up with! 

Once Upon A Tree is committed to using 

local and sustainably harvested wood. 

Known for their “live edge” serving boards 

and exquisite burl bowls, now Once Upon 

a Tree has created a beautiful Walnut iPad 

Holder exclusively for Jill’s Table. Perfect for 

displaying recipes in the kitchen, it is a true 

blend of nature and technology. $49.99 

Our regular eatdrink cookbook reviewer 

Tracy Turlin was thinking along similar lines: 

“I spend a lot of time in the kitchen trying 

new recipes so I need a way to keep my books 

safe and out of the mess,” she wrote. “The Oxo Good Grips 

Pop-up Cookbook Holder has a clear screen that protects 

the pages and holds the book open at the same time. 

The spatter screen pulls down and out of the way to 

allow you to turn the pages 

easily. The holder folds 

flat for easy storage 

on your cookbook 

shelf or gadget 

drawer.” $27.99 

“If you prefer to 

find your recipes online, 

you can still keep them close to you 

while you cook with the iPrep Tablet Stand 

and Stylus by Prepara. It has a weighted and non-slip 

base to securely hold any popular tablet or e-reader. It 

adjusts to 4 angles for optimum reading and the stylus 

stores in the hinge when not in use. This stand also 

folds flat for easy storage.” $29.99


The euroSCRUBBY (www.euroscrubby. 

com) is an abrasive, non-scratch cleaning 

cloth that is safe for almost every surface 

including non-stick pots and pans, glass/ 

ceramic cooktops, glass shower doors and 

so much more. The euroSCRUBBY is also 

environmentally friendly as it lasts 

anywhere between 6 

months to 2 years, 

depending 

upon use, 

meaning it 

reduces waste 

going to landfills from 

green scouring pads and many similar 

products. $2.99 

Carrie Wreford, co-owner of Stratford’s 

venerable Bradshaws shop, has her finger 

on the pulse of what’s on trend this year, and 

surprised us by suggesting a food item. The 

King George Christmas Pudding contains 

delightful ingredients 

such as sultanas, 

brown sugar, dried 

fig and apricots, 

citrus, pear and 

holiday spices, 

making these 

1-pound Canadian-made 

Christmas 

puddings a 

delicious treat for 

yourself or to give as a gift. 

Just steam and serve, this is the perfect traditional 

English holiday dessert. $24.95 

Jamie Griffiths, owner of The Pristine Olive in 

London, has come up with a charming way to 

help customers try his products (over 60 flavours 

of oils and balsamics!). He has created 

six unique Sample Pack Combinations, containing 

many of his most popular items. Each 

sample pack holds six individually labeled, 

60ml bottles, enclosed in The Pristine Olive’s 

new, custom-designed gift box. Perfect for 

people who wish to try a little bit of everything! 

$30 (Gourmet Pack $34) 

SINCE 1819 

AT THE HISTORIC ARVA FLOUR MILL 

MEATS 

Certified Organic 

Local & 

Gluten-Free 

Products 

Summer Hours 

TUES–SAT 10–5 

2042 Elgin St, Arva ON 

519-601-6456 

www.arvamillhouse.com 

OUTLET 

Formerly RESTAURANT EQUIPMENT & SUPPLY CO. 

Your Christmas 

Kitchen Chef Store 

More Brands 

Larger Inventory 

Same Great Service 

Let our staff 

show you the most 

requested gifts! 

Perfect ideas for every Foodie on your list! 

Open to the Public: Mon-Fri 8-5 

234 William Street, London • 519-438-2991 

www.trimen.com



Lawrence Burden, from London’s Kiss the Cook shop, suggested 

this set of Le Creuset Espresso Mugs. “It really is the “c” 

factor with these,” wrote Lawrence. “CUTE! People 

are buying them for espresso, but also 

for individual desserts.” These petite 

mugs will inject a pop of colour into 

any kitchen. The durable enamelled 

surface resists staining, chipping and 

cracking, and is easy to clean. Providing 

a totally hygienic surface, it will not absorb 

odours or flavours. Microwave, freezer and 

dishwasher safe. The set of six is even on promo 

for Christmas. $49.99 (regularly $120) 

Carrie Wreford also drew our attention to holiday dinnerware 

with wide appeal. “From chef, writer and member of 

the celebrated Conran design family, The Sophie Conran 

by Portmeirion dinnerware collection is the best-selling 

dinnerware pattern at Bradshaws,” writes Carrie. “This 

award-winning oven-to-table 

collection is recognizable 

by its curved edges 

and rippled bodies 

that give the charm 

of traditional 

pottery. The line is well-priced, 

beautifully packaged and offers a 

wide range of serving pieces. 

NEW this holiday season is the 

limited Christmas Collection 

from Sophie Conran, meant 

to be mixed into your current 

assortment to spruce things us 

for your holiday table setting. 

All pieces are freezer-to-oven, 

microwave- and dishwashersafe.” 

Dinnerware 

(12-piece set) $179 

Pudding 

Basin $19.95 

Those “in the know” are already aware of the European 

Appliance Store in Belgrave, just north of Blyth, but 

their Marketing Manager Jonathan Roeland is trying to 

get the word out further. We asked him for a gift suggestion 

that might work for almost anyone, not that we’d 

complain if someone tucked a deluxe 

new range under our tree! Easier to 

wrap is the Chef’s Design Gourmet 

Specialty Pan & Buffet Server. The 

large 12” non-stick griddle surface is 

perfect for sautéing, searing, or browning. 

The heavy triple-ply flat bottom 

resists warping and conducts heat quickly 

and evenly. The Gourmet Specialty Pan 

goes form the 

range top or 

oven straight 

to the table for 

elegant food 

presentation. 

The pan also works well for serving 

cheese, crackers, sausage and 

other cold or hot hors d’oeuvres. 

$119.99 (40% off 

regular price 

of $199)


Our intrepid book reviewer, Darin Cook, 

chipped in with a couple of novel ideas (pun 

intended). He identified a couple of needs 

that most of us can relate to. “If you’ve ever 

wanted to have all types of cheese listed 

right before your very eyes, get The Charted 

Cheese Wheel (www.popchartlab.com),” 

writes Darin. 

“You’ll never be 

at a loss for inspiration 

to meet 

all your cheese 

needs with this 

attractive print 

adorning your 

kitchen walls. The 

Charted Cheese 

Wheel references 

65 cheeses from 

around the world 

in the unique 

formation that resembles, what else, but a 

wheel of cheese. $29, framing extra 

“Nobody told me there would be math 

involved in cooking,” continued Darin. “A 

quick glance at the Oversized Cooking 

Measurements 

Tea Towel can 

provide some 

relief. With all 

those measurements, 

sometimes 

mental 

gymnastics 

put a crimp 

in one’s culinary 

creativity. 

This simplified 

measurement conversion 

graphic is printed on a 20 x 28 inch tea towel 

that does all the calculations for you, while 

providing a convenient place for drying your 

hands at the same time.” $16 

Busy preparing for the holidays? 

Let Us Help! 

Since 1972 

Gift 

Certificates 

Available 

Come by for a 

delicious meal of 

Home-cooked 

Fish & Chips! 

“Homemade Goodness 

with a Gourmet Touch” 

1050 Kipps Lane, London 

E&D_LocomotiveED_Nov2014_ART.pdf TUES–THURS: 3–7:30 1 201 

519-673-6606 

FRI: 12–7:30 SAT: 3–7:30 

www.kippslanefish.com 

Closed SUN & MON 

Bradshaws, 129 Ontario Street, Stratford 

www.bradshawscanada.com 

The European Appliance Store, 39822 Belgrave Rd, 

Belgrave www.theeuropeanappliancestore.com 

Jill’s Table, 115 King Street, London 

www.jillstable.ca 

Kiss the Cook, 551 Richmond Street, London 

www.kissthecook online.com 

The Pristine Olive, 462 Cheapside Street, London 

www.thepristineolive.ca


road trips 

Shop, Stay and Play 

Christmas in Bayfield 


SPONSORED BY 

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE 

Want to pack some fun into 

your Christmas shopping? 

A short road trip to Bayfield 

may be just the answer. Only 

an hour’s drive from London along some 

picturesque side roads, and located on 

the shores of magnificent Lake Huron, 

the historic village offers interesting 

shopping alongside unique dining and 

accommodations. For the foodie, it’s a 

place to enjoy craft beers and local cuisine, 

and to pick up culinary gifts, all while 

supporting independent businesses. 

The annual event Christmas in Bayfield 

kicks off on the weekend of November 8th 

and continues every weekend until New 

Year’s. Main Street merchants celebrate 

by lighting Christmas trees in Clan Gregor 

Square beginning on November 7th. Some 

businesses offer discounts, including no-tax 

specials and draws for baskets of goodies. 

The joy of heading to Bayfield lies in the ease 

of the destination. With ample angle parking 

up and down the wide main street, it is a 

popular road trip for those who like ease upon 

arrival. Situated on Highway 21 between Grand 

Bend and Goderich, road trippers like to make 

Bayfield the central location for a weekend 

get-away, even in the off-season. It is one of 

the few lakeshore villages where most shops, 

restaurants and Inns remain open year-round. 

Upon arrival visitors will notice the newly 

Bayfield Town Hall 

opened, modern LCBO store adjacent to 

the new Foodland grocery store on Highway 

21 just south of the main entrance to the 

village. If you are staying in the area, these 

are great new additions. 

There are several outstanding options 

for overnight accommodations. The Red 

Pump Inn — known widely for its restaurant, 

operated by Bayfield legend Harry Israel — 

has seven luxury suites. Each is individually 

decorated with a European flair and features 

unique artwork. All have private balconies 

or patios. 

Across the street from “The Pump” — as 

locals call it — is The Little Inn, now under 

the new ownership of Joanne and Mike 

Oliver. The historic Inn was opened in 1830 

and claims to be the longest continuously 

operating Inn in Ontario. There are rooms 

The Red Pump Inn 

The Little Inn of Bayfield

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And while the fully-trained Appearance Technicians detail your vehicle, 

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Contest ends December 15, 2014. Complete details online.



and suites in the main building, which 

also houses a lovely sitting room, bar and 

restaurant. Or, guests can stay across the 

road in the Guest Cottage. Some rooms offer 

fireplaces and soaker tubs. There are also B 

& B’s in Bayfield and private cottage rentals. 

As well there are some local area hotels with 

unique offerings. The Hessenland Country 

Inn in St. Joseph’s on highway 21 offers guest 

rooms along with delicious German and 

European cuisine. About 25 minutes’ drive 

away is Samuels Hotel in Saltford, which 

offers modern guest rooms, some of which 

have a view of the Maitland River. 

Dining options in Bayfield are diverse, 

especially considering the small size of the 

village. Pub-lovers flock to the Albion Hotel, 

another historic building, for wings, fish 

and chips and sports screens. Next door is 

the revered Black Dog Bistro operated by 

cookbook author Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh 

and her husband Ted McIntosh, in yet 

another nineteenth-century building. It’s 

a special place to kick back and enjoy a 

relaxed atmosphere while sampling from 

a choice of 21 draft beers or sipping one 

of 150 whiskey offerings. This time of year, 

an Irish Whisky 

speciality coffee 

whipped up by 

bar manager Peter 

Meades is just the 

remedy after a day 

on the road. “There 

are eight speciality 

coffees in all and 

we sell a lot of them 

during Christmas 

in Bayfield,” says 

Meades. Having 

tried one, it’s easy 

to understand why. 

Graham Watson shows off some fresh chocolate treats 

(left). Hiis Charles St. Market shelves are full of party 

and holiday favourites such as gourmet dips (above). 

Jenn Watson (right), amid the eclectic selection of 

houseware, clothing and accessories at Hive, including 

some beautifully decorative bowls (above). 

The bistro makes 

some great burgers, 

including one that 

comes with buttery 

deep-fried onion 

rings. 

Next to the 

Bistro is the Black 

Dog Pantry where 

Kathleen and her 

daughter Alysa 

King produce 

take-away pot 

pies, assorted 

cookie boxes and fruit and nut Christmas 

cakes. “People also place special orders for 

mincemeat tarts and we try out best to meet 

the demand,” says King. The baking and 

cooking is done in an open kitchen inside 

the pantry shop, adjacent to an impressive 

cheese display cooler. All you need for a 

home party awaits you here. 

For shopping, the street offers a wide variety 

of merchants and merchandise from books 

to original art. Hive is a funky newer addition. 

Owner Jenn Wallace proudly offers “an eclectic 

mix that is vintage-inspired, bohemian,” 

including home accessories, clothing and 

jewelry. Her slate cheese boards from The 

Slate Company in Scotland are a perfect gift 

— you can write on them with chalk! Hive also 

has a nice collection of tea mug and strainers 

plus serving trays and dishware. 

Across the street is Charles St. Market, 

operated by Jenn’s brother Graham Wallace. 

Here you can buy cheese and crackers for 

that new cheese board along with a full line 

of Sugar & Spice chocolates made in nearby 

Exeter. The asparagus tortilla chips will 

make your Christmas party a bit different. 

The Market also sells Olive-Me & Co oils


and balsamic 

Irish Coffee at 

The Black Dog Bistro 

vinegars, from 

London. 

“We see a lot 

of people return 

to their cottages 

in the weeks 

leading up to 

Christmas, “ 

says Wallace. 

“It’s a good 

weekend getaway 

to relax 

before Christmas 

gets too 

busy.” 

A warm cup of coffee awaits at Shop 

Bike Coffee Roasters where owner Leanne 

Kavanagh also sells unique “retro” candies 

from Britain and the US. She roasts her own 

beans and sells cups of coffee and beans. 

Her coffee would be great with the delicious 

offerings of The Pink Flamingo bakery, 

across the road from The Little Inn. Owner 

and author Erin Bolger makes fantastic 

cupcakes and much more. She gained fame 

on Dragon’s Den with her hilarious book The 

Happy Baker: 

A Daters Guide 

to Emotional 

Baking. Now she 

lives in Bayfield 

and delights 

customers with 

her humour and 

goodies. 

Bayfield can 

be the perfect 

location for a 

short road trip 

that combines 

culinary and 

Some Main Street shop signs 

shopping in 

great accommodations. 

Full details and a schedule of events can be 

found at www.villageofbayfield.com 

Dinner Thursday to Sunday 

Lunch Wednesday to Saturday 

Reservations Recommended 

Book NOW for your 

Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party 

& Reserve for New Year’s Eve! 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend 

www.finearestaurant.com 

discover the charm 

of the season! 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular road warrior contributor 

to eatdrink. She is also Manager, Communications & Media 

Relations at King’s University College, London. 

BRUCE FYFE is a photographer for eatdrink magazine and 

Librarian at Weldon Library, Western University, London. 

. 

“Evidence that you don’t have to be in 

a big city to create great things!” 

— The Globe & Mail 

527 Main Street, Exeter 519-235-3030 

30 min North of London • 20 min East of Grand Bend 

30 min West of Stratford 

www.eddingtons.ca



spotlight 

The Smart APPetite App Stands Out 

A “Local” Collaboration 


Recently I was the guest of Dr. 

Jason Gilliland (Director, HEAL 

and Department of Geography 

at Western) and Margaret 

Milczarek, the project manager and 

research associate for the SmartAPPetite 

initiative, for an outstanding lunch at the 

Church Key Bistro-Pub. Dr. Gilliland and 

I ordered the warm duck salad (which he 

highly recommended) with duck leg confit 

on greens, roasted mushrooms, candied 

almonds, Stilton cheese and white balsamic 

and raspberry vinaigrette. Milczarek, a 

passionate food enthusiast, ordered the 

steamed P.E.I. mussels that were served with 

frites, and brought me up-to-date on several 

interesting culinary-related activities she 

had recently attended. 

We were there to discuss the launch of the 

smartphone application, or “app,” and an 

accompanying interactive website that will 

help make healthy 

local food more 

accessible, and its 

interrelated strategies. 

SmartAPPetite is a 

Western University 

community-led 

initiative that aims to help keep participants 

accountable to their nutrition goals and to 

maintain healthy diets. It also helps users 

access local food businesses, farmers and 

other advocates and proponents of eating 

and sourcing food locally. 

Incidentally, I have been acquainted 

with Dr. Gilliland for several years in his 

capacity as an advisor to the Old East Village 

BIA and through my work at the Western 

Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, where 

he and his team, led by Michael Clark 

(Old East Village senior researcher and 

programs administrator), conducted several 

studies and customer surveys, as well as an 

economic impact comparative analysis of 

farmers’ markets. 

Milczarek is responsible for overseeing 

the advancement of the project, providing 

strategic direction and leadership for The 

SmartAPPetite team, and is the liaison for 

various staff stakeholders and collaborators. 

The project was inaugurated last summer 

as a twelve-week pilot with 200 participants at 

the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market 

who provided feedback on the design and 

various applications of the app. A prototype 

app has been in the beta testing phase for 

months and will soon become a bona fide 

“farm-to-fork” digital resource. 

The SmartAPPetite team has two chief 

goals. First of all, they want to make it easier 

for consumers to access healthy, locallysourced, 

meals by improving food literacy 

and the awareness of what home-grown 

Margaret Milczarek, Project Manager, at the 

London Potter’s Guild in the Old East Village


(Left to Right): Mark McGregor (graduate student), Dr. 

Jason Gilliland, Gabriela Heslop (Brescia student and 

SmartAPP volunteer) 

foods are available in our local communities. 

Secondly, they want to shine a light on the 

importance of southwestern Ontario’s local 

food economies and facilitate their roles as 

local economic development tools. 

The collaborative project is a Labour 

Market Partnership, 

and is funded by the 

Ministry of Training, 

Colleges and Universities 

and Western University. 

It is being led 

by Dr. Gilliland’s lab, 

the Human Environments 

Analysis Laboratory 

(HEAL) and 

The Department of 

Geography at Western 

University, with collaboration 

from other 

partners such as Brescia 

University College, 

Wilfrid Laurier University, 


BIA and the London 

Training Centre. 

HEAL is committed 

to research on public 

health and the built 

environment (the built 

environment encompasses 

places and 

spaces created or modified 

by people including 

buildings, parks, and 

transportation systems), 

Laurier is offering 

specialists in geography and environmental 

studies and Brescia’s strength is embracing the 

diversity of food and nutrition research. 

London Training Centre (LTC) executive 

director David Corke said that the LTC is 

presently the host organization and administrator 

of this Labour Market Partnership 

(LMP) project. LMP’s are funded by the 

Ministry of Training Colleges and Universities 

here in Ontario 

Corke elaborates, “Our connection and 

interest rest both with local food and regional 

economic development. A large part of the 

work of our organization, in addition to training 

and our work with food, also involves 

helping people find work and careers. We 

believe that a reinvigorated and re-imagined 

regional food system, one that establishes 

linkages between consumers and producers 

through technology such as SmartAPPetite, 

will encourage growth in the food sector and 

by extension — new businesses and careers 

for people.” 

In addition to Gilliland, Milczarek, 

Clark and Corke, the SmartAPPetite 

Team includes Dr. Sean Doherty (Dept. of 

Geography & Environmental Studies, WLU), 

Dr. Colleen O’Connor (Registered Dietitian, 

Food and Nutritional Sciences Division, 

Brescia University College), Dr. Richard



Left: Participants at the Essex County Workshop, at 

the Kingsville Public Library, with Dr. Rick Sadler (back 

left), Mark McGregor (back right), Michael Clark (front) 

Below: At Feastival, the London Training Centre’s 

annual fundraising event: (L to R) Mark McGregor, Dr. 

Rick Sadler, David Corke (Executive Director 

of London Training Centre), Michael Clark 

(graduate student and Old East Village Senior 

Researcher & Programs Administrator 

Sadler (Post- 

Doctoral Fellow), 

Dr. Andrew Clark 

(Post-Doctoral 

Fellow), and 

Mark McGregor 

(MA Candidate 

and Research 

Associate). 

While there may seem to be similar apps 

currently available, Dr. Gilliland stated, “Smart 

APPetite is unique in its approach because 

it embraces the diversity of food.” Dozens of 

students from Brescia gathered data and in 

total over one hundred academics lent scientifically 

validated expertise to the project. The 

app and an integrated website being designed 

by London digital agency Inner Geek Media 

will actively provide users with information 

about nearby local food options based on 

their preferences and/or dietary restrictions. 

The objective, Dr. Gilliland emphasized, “is to 

develop an app that can communicate to users 

not only what, when and where local food can 

be procured, but offer reliable dietary information 

and nutritional recipes as well. The challenge 

will be keeping the content updated and 

scientifically valid to maintain credibility.” 

Every so often, the team will send the user 

short personally customized tips with information 

about the health benefits of specific 

foods, what is seasonal now, what 

foods are available near you, or how 

to prepare or store food properly. 

You will be able to let them know 

when and how often you want to 

hear from them. With the app, you 

can search for independent restaurants 

that are part of the Smart APPetite 

ideology. You will be able to get 

the restaurant’s address and phone number, 

a link to its website and a brief description of 

the restaurant and cuisine. 

The team has facilitated workshop consultations 

to evaluate how best to design 

the app to make sure it user-friendly for the 

widest variety of users as possible. Attendees 

have represented various stakeholders ranging 

from farmers (from agriculture to cattle), 

producers, processors, distributors, niche 

businesses, chefs, restaurateurs, regional 

economic development and health unit representatives 

and local food advocates. Consultations 

were held in Elgin County (Arts 

& Cookery Bank), Old East Village (London 

Potter’s Guild), Lambton County (Wyoming 

Library), Essex County (Kingsville Library), 

Middlesex & London (Central Library), 

Perth County (The Local Community Food 

Centre), and in Oxford County (Gunn’s Hill 

Artisan Cheese). 

The team has also attended many local 

food-focused events as well as being in 

touch with stakeholders from Chatham- 

Kent and Huron counties. Be sure to 

check out the launch and progress of the 

SmartAPPetite at www.smartappetite And 

be sure to go to the Church Key Pub and 

order the confit of duck salad. 

BRYAN LAVERY is a contributing editor and eatdrink’s 

Food Writer at Large. 

Dr. Colleen O’Connor (co-investigator from Brescia and 

Registered Dietitian), Grace McGartland (The Arts & 

Cookery Bank in West Lorne) & Christine Scheer (CGM).


Giving never tasted so good... 

Since 2012, we’ve donated a percentage of all sales in November to Prostate Cancer Research 

at London Regional Cancer Program at London Health Sciences Centre. 

With your support we can do it again! 

119 King Street, London, ON 

(519) 675-9995 

www.abruzzi.ca


The BUZZ ... new and notable 

The cold weather’s coming, but don’t let that 

stop you from indulging your inner gastronome. 

Some of the outdoor markets remain open, and 

the indoor locations are also flush with fresh 

products. Check out a new (or new-to-you) restaurant or 

café in the neighbourhood. Take a day trip further afield to 

discover something delicious (or just to sip on your favourite 

wintertime beverage when you reach your destination). Head 

back to class — cooking class, that is — to learn some new 

tricks. Or nourish your mind, with something like this ... 

Concerned about bees? World-renowned bee expert Dr. 

Laurence Packer will share his insights on wild bees and 

will be joined by an expert panel to discuss conservation 

and restoration strategies in London. Find out about the 

issues, and learn some practical steps we can take. Plight of 

the Pollinators: Making London Pollinator Friendly, 

November 24 from 7-9 p.m. at Wolf Performance Hall (Central 

Library, 251 Dundas St. London) Attendance is free. 

Jill Wilcox recently hosted an elegant open house to celebrate 

Jill’s Table’s 15th anniversary and to introduce the brand new 

kitchen. Jill partnered with McKaskell Haindl Design Build to 

create a wonderful new space so you can enjoy time around the 

table with great friends and food. This fall as part of their cooking 

class line-up they are welcoming back chefs Paul Harding, 

Josie Pontarelli, Vicci Coughlin, Chris Squire, Steve James 

and Emily Richards. New to the Jill’s Table kitchen this season 

are Eric Neves from The Only on King and Justin Wolfe of The 

Early Bird and Rock Au Taco. www.jillstable.ca 

Dickens’ Dinner—An Upper Canada Christmas Carol. 

Enjoy a Victorian Christmas dinner followed by a performance 

of An Upper Canada Christmas Carol: A Play by Jason Rip. 

Colonel Thomas Talbot may be the most powerful man in his 

35,000 acre “principality” along the shore of Lake Erie in early 


Win a Lexus Road Trip! 

from 

eatdrink 

and 

19th century Upper Canada, but he is not known as a kind 

man. Discover for yourself if a parade of tranquility-shattering 

phantoms can change his ultimate fate. November 28– 

December 13. www.fanshawepioneervillage.ca. 

Kiss the Cook cooking class instructors for the next few 

months include Danijel Markovic of Kantina, Chris 

Squire, and Neil Baxter from Rundles in Stratford. www. 

kissthecookonline.com 

Farm Boy has plans to open two new fresh market stores 

in London, to be located at 109 Fanshawe Park Road East 

(“Masonville”) and 1415 Beaverbrook Avenue (“Beaverbrook”). 

The new stores will create 260 new jobs for the region when 

they open in the spring of 2015. The grocery is well known 

for its fresh produce, butcher quality meats and hundreds of 

unique private label items. www.farmboy.ca/london 

Paul Harding, proprietor/chef of The Only On King, was 

honoured as one of this year’s 20 Under 40 award recipients. 

The program recognizes accomplished London industry leaders 

who are under the age of 40 who also give back to their 

community. The 2014 recipients will be profiled in a special print 

and digital supplement to be distributed with the November 

issue of Business London. The recipients will also be feted at a 

cocktail reception at the London Music Hall on November 12. 

We here at eatdrink are currently compiling London’s 

Local Flavour, the 2015 Tourism London Culinary Guide. 

This guide continues to confirm that Londoners are not just 

advocating “eating and drinking local” and “eating seasonal,” 

they are actively and creatively enhancing and making new 

other established cuisines. Local Flavour helps businesses 

participate in two popular economic trends — culinary 

tourism and the local food movement. Likewise, more and 

more environmental and ethical options such as sustainable 

Enter our Draw for a Lexus Reflections President Package 

The comprehensive appearance reconditioning service will completely rejuvenate 

your vehicle. While the fully-trained Appearance Technicians detail your vehicle, 

you will be provided with a beautiful Lexus to drive for a weekend! 

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag 

Contest ends December 15, 2014. Complete details online.


seafood, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and organic are being 

offered. For more information, contact bryan@eatdrink.ca or 

chris@eatdrink.ca 

“It felt like home and we put down our roots,” says Brenda 

Daniel of From the Meadow, who has been farming since 

1978. She and her husband Dave, along with their daughter 

Heather, grow, harvest and manufacture a variety of natural 

herb products on their 5-acre plot. They call their (MyPick® 

local farmer verified) business an “adventure” and are 

passionate about creating revitalizing and relaxing healing 

creams, scrubs, shampoos, soaps, make-up and more with 

their own culinary herbs and other natural ingredients. Their 

products are available at their “Farmacy” at their farm in 

Elgin County and at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ 

Market. vimeo.com/72948434 

Smokin’ Good fishmonger John England has expanded his 

line of fresh and smoked fish at the Western Fair Farmers’ 

& Artisans’ Market. England offers a wide selection of 

seasonally-available fresh lake fish and shell fish that include: 

Lake Erie perch, pickerel, and smelt; Iceland arctic char and 

salmon, Campbell River salmon, wild chinook and coho 

salmon, gravlax, oysters and P.E.I. mussels. England is also 

known for his smoked pork, chicken and salmon. 

In Restaurant News … 

Thaifoon Restaurant has new owners, Mainsay Visouvath 

and Fouzan (Rafael) Beg, relatives of former owners 

Eddy and Alex Phimphrachanh. The kitchen continues to 

set Thaifoon apart with bang-on aromatic specialties from 

the Thai culinary canon and with a keen eye for detail and 

presentation. The minimalist room is sleek, with a sexy, 

upbeat soundtrack, rich dark woods and ultra-soft leather 

banquettes. www.thaifoonrestaurant.com 

Olive R Twists opened in mid-October in the Covent Garden 

Market after months of refurbishment. The restaurant is 

co-owned by Chris Doris, co-owner of Doris Family Produce 

in the market, and Greg Efstatheu, a restaurateur/chef from 

Ingersoll. Menus feature casual bistro fare. The 75-foot-long bar 

uses state of the art tap technology. Find your favourite craft 

and draft beers, handcrafted cocktails, and an intriguing menu 

of classic and trendy martinis. 

The sale of the Honest Lawyer building, which also housed 

Downtown Kathy Brown’s, is expected to be finalized at 

the end of October. Restaurateur Marvin Rivas, who blends 

tradition and ingenuity in true Latin American style at his 

downtown hot-spot, Che Restobar, plans to put an upscale 

restaurant with an atrium on the main floor and residential 

apartments on the upper floors. 

Downtown London’s 

Upscale Authentic Thai Restaurant 

Book your Holiday Party now! 

Mainsay and Rafael (Fouzan) invite 

you to join them for dinner or lunch 

519.850.1222 120 Dundas St. at Talbot 

www.thaifoonrestaurant.com


Tabitha Switzer and David Coulter have been running La 

Noisette Bakery for a few months now, and getting rave 

reviews. Located in Bellwood Plaza (Oxford and Gammage, in 

London) they offer breads, pastries, sandwiches, soups, and 

Patrick’s Beans. Always fresh-made, and offered with a smile. 

Find La Noisette Bakery on Facebook. 

The Church Key Bistro-Pub offers top-notch cooking and 

chef Michael Anglestad has a repertoire of flavours that are 

big, brash and rustic but thoroughly cosmopolitan. Pastry chef 

Cliff Briden is also at the top of his game. Best of all, owners 

Vanessa and Pete Willis have created a welcoming place for 

Your love of all things Italian begins at 


locals to meet and imbibe. The Church Key serves one of the 

best Sunday brunches in the city. www.thechurchkey.ca 

Established and operated by brothers Peter, Theodoros and 

Elias Vergiris, The Mascot was a family-run restaurant that 

relied on a loyal clientele of regulars for 43 years. The Mascot 

closed in October when the family retired. The building, near 

Dundas and Richmond, was purchased by Michael Manuel 

of the London Music Hall. 

Speaking of brunch, panoramic views and the tailored simplicity 

and elegance of The River Room Café and Private Catering 

make it a pleasing spot for lunch or Sunday brunch. Jess Jazey- 

Spoelstra’s kitchen has a deserved reputation for the quality 

of the ingredients and the knowledgeable and expressive 

exuberance of the preparations. Currently open just for lunch, 

Jazey-Spoelstra tells eatdrink that she plans to open the 

third Thursday every month for dinner starting in the New Year. 

Jazey-Spoelstra’s smart Rhino Lounge Bakery and Coffee 

Shoppe, situated in the former gift shop at Museum London, 

is now serving made-to-order sandwiches on Pastry Chef 

Michele Lenhardt’s daily bread (flavours change). And don’t 

forget about Lenhardt’s delicious cronuts on Thursdays. www. 

northmoore.ca/theriverroom/ 

Felipe Gomes provides an experiential culinary offering at 

Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant,with amenities and 

facilities for cooking classes, corporate team building exercises 

and a private conference room for up to 30. Gomes’s other 

project is the Aroma Café, a Parisian-inspired coffee house 

offering patrons a selection of speciality sandwiches, café au 

lait, croissants and pâtisserie. www.fginternationalcorp.com 

Icarus Resto Bar on Richmond Row, next to Black 

Trumpet, has gotten off to a smash success. Uber-chef 

Thomas Waite is plating up some very innovative 

and interesting modernist-inspired and reimagined 

Mediterranean and Greek dishes in the open kitchen. The 

hospitable Zack Agathos and his service-oriented staff are 

keeping the place humming. www.icarusrestobar.com 

Stunning Views 

Excellent Food 

Ambiance Galore 

CRONUT 

Thursdays! 

TUES, WED, FRI, SAT & SUN 11am–5pm 

THURS 11–9 • Closed MON 

Available for Private Events for up to 60 

rhinolounge.ca | 519.850.5111 

at 

MUSEUM 

LONDON 

421 ridout st. 

Book Now for 

HOLIDAY 

LUNCHES 

Café Open TUES to FRI, 11–4 

SUN Brunch, 11–4 

Available Evenings for Private Events 

theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287


Linda D’Andrea of Black Trumpet tells us that Chef Jason 

Eccles and Chef James Smith at La Casa and Chef Scott 

Wesseling at Black Trumpet have just introduced new 

lunch and dinner menus for the upcoming holiday season. 

www.lacasaristorante.com & www.blacktrumpet.ca 

Blu Duby has become one of London’s hottest downtown 

restaurants — just try getting a last-minute reservation on 

a weekend night. Chef Jamie Craig has recently joined Blu 

Duby, bringing a culinary philosophy of appreciation for fresh 

quality commodities and consistent proper preparation. In 

addition to his passion for cooking, Jamie finds great satisfaction 

in helping to discover and develop the talents of his younger 

chef apprentices. He keeps his own skills current and sharp by 

participating in culinary festivals like Savour Stratford, and 

Canada’s Gold Medal Plate event. www.bluduby.com 

Chef de Cuisine Trevor Stephens holds an Interprovincial Red 

Seal Certificate and received classical training at Fanshawe 

College. He comes to Idlewyld Inn & Spa after spending nine 

years at their sister Inn, Ingersoll’s Elm Hurst Inn & Spa, where 

he achieved the title of sous chef. Nestled in London’s quaint Old 

South neighborhood, the historic Idlewyld has sustained its air 

of excellence for over a century. What started out as a private 

residence in Victorian times has evolved into London’s premier 

boutique hotel, boasting membership in such organizations as 

Distinguished Inns of North America and gaining the prestigious 

designation of being named one of Ontario’s Finest Inns. Check 

out Chef Stephen’s new menu online. www.idlewyldinn.com 

Members of the London Brewing Cooperative will be 

talking about their brewing practices during two special 

events in November, both at The Root Cellar. Called Farm 

to Fork: The People’s Pint, the events run from 6 to 9 pm, 

November 12 and 27. Cost is $50, which includes a threecourse 

meal and a flight of beers. www.londonbrewing.ca 

Lunch & Dinner 

7 Days a Week 

Mediterranean 

Open Kitchen 

Farm to Table Inspired 

Licenced 

Book 

Now for 

Holiday 

Parties 

519 Richmond Street (near Dufferin) 519 601 7110 

www.icarusrestobar.com 

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed 

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine 

Poacher’s Arms is London’s oldest pub. True to the pub 

tradition, it offers good solid hearty food at accessible prices. 

Co-owner Jim Lee tells us that the menu has been revamped 

and polished to include some great new items. The pub now 

carries 5 new rotating craft beers on draught that they are 

constantly changing, which has generated a lot of positive 

feedback from their regulars. www.poachersarms.ca 

Restaurateur Mike Smith has installed a brewery in the 

basement of his Jim Bob Ray’s bar and is getting geared 

up to launch a line of locally-brewed craft beer. The primary 

market for his beer will be his own establishments: Jim Bob 

Ray’s, Joe Kool’s, Fellini Koolini’s Italian Cuisini, The 

Runt Club and P Za Pie. However, Smith is also working on 

attaining licensing and developing a brand so he can retail 

his craft beers in other establishments, joining other local 

craft brewery favourites like London’s Forked River, Railway 

City in St. Thomas, the fledgling Black Swan Brewery in 

Stratford and the new Strathroy Brewing Company. 

• Vegetarian 

Options 

• Takeout 

• Catering 

• Reservations 

Recommended 

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant 

LUNCH Tues–Fri 11am–1pm 

DINNER Tues–Fri 5–10pm • Sat 12–10pm • Sun 2–10pm 

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com


In Coffee News ... 

Locomotive Espresso is now retailing the Aeropress (similar 

to a French press) and the KeepCup (the world’s first barista 

standard reusable cup) which are both getting rave reviews. 

They continue to brew the classic favourites, and the flat 

white (Aussie) and cortado (South America) beverages are 

gaining popularity. And, for espressophiles, Locomotive is 

hosting a December bus trip to Toronto. Tour the Pilot Roaster 

tasting bar and three selected espresso bars, and get your fill 

of coffee for the day. www.locomotiveespresso.com 

www.davidsbistro.ca 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course 

prix fixe menu 

option 

432 Richmond St. 

at Carling • London 

Brilliant 

Holiday Celebrations! 

Patrick Dunham’s goal is to offer high quality coffee blends that 

are roasted locally and sourced ethically. Dunham caters to the 

specific needs of clients and his strategy includes offering fund 

raising opportunities to non-profits as well as demonstrating 

transparent community involvement. Beans are roasted in small 

batches and blended to attain tailor-made tastes and complexities 

that cannot be found in single varietal selections. Look for 

Patrick’s Beans on Facebook, or at Ogilvie’s Market, Sunnivue 

Farm near Ailsa Craig, The Arva Flour Mill, Time to Chill in 

Woodstock, The Root Cellar, Hungary Butcher and The Rhino 

Bakery and Lounge. www.patricksbeans.com 

Around The Region ... 

Yoda’s Private Catering has moved! The small (but mighty!) 

catering company is now located at 481 Talbot Street, St. 

Thomas. Stay tuned for their grand opening in January 2015. 

Open to the public every Wednesday for #walkinwednesday 

from 10am–6pm with seasonal soups, frozen entrees and 

lunch specials, with plenty of vegetarian and gluten free 

options. letyodacookforyou.com 

The folks at Railway City Brewing are pleased to announce 

that they have just received another order of new 40HL and 

20HL fermentors, increasing brewing capacity by 50%. Stop 

in for a visit, and check out the new equipment. They will be 

releasing Cranberry Festive Lager in November at a Thursday 

Night Release event. Featuring cranberries from Bala, Ontario, 

the lager will be available from the LCBO as part of Railway 

City’s Holiday Gift Pack. www.railwaycitybrewing.com 

“A place you 

can depend on 

and delight in” 

— eatdrink 

46 Blackfriars Street, London 

519-667-4930 

www.blackfriarsbistro.com 

EXPRESS LUNCHES 

INTIMATE DINNERS 

EXTRAORDINARY 

CATERING 

DIETARY NEEDS 

ACCOMMODATED 

AMPLE FREE PARKING 

The Little Inn, the heart of hospitality in heritage Bayfield, has 

changed ownership. After 33 years, Gayle and Pat Waters have 

turned the business over to new owners Mike and Joanne 

Oliver. The Olivers will be making a few changes to maintain 

and update the building. The inn has been the centre of the 

Huron County village since 1832 and has been Four Diamond 

CAA rated for more than 20 years. www.littleinn.com 

Air Canada’s award-winning inflight magazine, enRoute, 

announced their Top 10 list of Canada’s Best New 

Restaurants 2014, as well as the Best New Restaurants 2014 

People’s Choice Award. On a month-long culinary journey that 

took noted food writer Andrew Braithwaite from Tofino, 

British Columbia to St. John’s, Newfoundland, he discovered a 

group of chefs, sommeliers and restaurateurs who continued


to explore this country’s terroir and redefine what it means 

to dine out in Canada. Read more: ethicalgourmet.blogspot. 

ca/2014/10/air-canadas-enroute-magazine-announces.html 

Stratford … 

Mercer Hall Craft Beer Dinner Series. Chefs Tim Larson 

and Sean Collins create 4 courses matched with 4 beers 

from a different craft brewery each month. Learn about the 

breweries and the process while enjoying seasonal and staple 

products from these artisan breweries. Overnight packages 

are available with Mercer Hall guest rooms. On November 20, 

the partner brewer is Flying Monkeys Brewery from Barrie. 

On December 18, Block Three Brewing Company from St. 

Jacobs will be there. www.mercerhall.com/supper-club 

Want to be a food critic? Stratford Chefs School aspiring 

chefs are preparing favourite classic menus with passion and 

skill and invite you to join them. The Classic Dinner Series is 

served at The Prune, while 3-course lunches designed by 

the students take place at Bijou Friday and Saturday. www. 

stratfordchef.com 

Mercer Hall presents The SUPPER CLUB. This is a long table 

dinner with a themed menu and guests are encouraged to dress 

up to match the theme. How about donning that ugly Christmas 

sweater for “The Griswalds” dinner? Tickets are $50, include a 

feature cocktail and 4-5 course dinner. Cocktails begin at 6pm 

If your senses light up with the first signs of Christmas, then 

Stratford’s annual Yuletide Tour of Home is the place you’ll 

want to start. Presented by the local chapter of IODE, the tour 

features four beautiful city homes and one gracious country 

home, all decorated by local designers in the tantalizing 

sights, sounds, textures and aromas of the season. At Royal 

Palisade tourers can feast on hot mulled cider and mouthwatering 

Christmas goodies created under the direction of 

executive chef Liz Tracey. November 22 and 23. 519-271-8745, 

stratfordiode@gmail.com, or on Facebook. 

Bradshaws Christmas Open House is an annual shopping 

tradition in downtown Stratford, marking the beginning 

of the holiday season. Visit this event for delicious food 

samplings, new product demos, and the best assortment of 

holiday gifts, foods and kitchenware. Enter to win door prizes 

and receive a FREE gift with purchase. Thursday November 6th 

5–8pm. www.bradshawscanada.com 

We love Monforte Dairy’s 30 varieties of artisanal cheese 

available at over 30 farmers markets, and catching a local 

seasonal meal (preferably with cheese!) at Monforte 

on Wellington, a relaxed osteria style restaurant. Now 

the Monforte Home Farm is part of the family, where 

the community will come for sustenance, learning and 

revitalization. In March 2015, the Monforte Dairy Artisanal 

Cheesemaking School will be launched. 

Try Our NEW Grilled Seafood Menu Items! 

growers & creators of fine lavender products 

DISCOVER 

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a 

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta 

INDULGE 

in our unique handcrafted lavender products 

ESCAPE 

in the wonderful scent 

and calming powers of lavender 

519-494-5525 

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

buds@steedandcompany.com 

Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4 

Mother’s Day to December 20 

www.steedandcompany.com 

Join us for our 

Christmas 

Open House 

November 

22 & 23 

ENJOY 

Authentic 

Greek Wines 

& Beer 

OPEN LATE! 

Sundays 4–9 

MON−SAT 11–10 

EAT-IN OR 

TAKE-OUT 

572 Adelaide Street, London 

519-434-6736 

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca



and dinner is served family-style in the private dining room. 

December 20. 519-271-9202, www.mercerhall.ca/supper-club 

Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market is moving inside, 

to a NEW location — The Falstaff Family Centre, Stratford, 

35 Waterloo Street, Stratford. The market you know and love 

is open Sundays from 10 am–2 pm all year round. www. 

slowfoodperthcounty.ca 

Blue Cheese and Port, one of 

the classic food and beverage 

pairings will be discussed and 

tasted with several variations 

of blue veined cheeses and 

3 different ports. Saturday, 

November 22 at The Milky 

Whey Fine Cheese Shop. 

www.visitstratford.ca/tastings 

Stratford Farmers’ Market is 

a year-round market operating 

since 1855. Fresh produce, crafts, 

meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex–Agriplex, 353 

McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7 am–12 pm. 519-271-5130. 

www.stratfordfairgrounds.com 

We want your 

BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like people to know about? 

eatdrink has thousands of readers across 

Southwestern Ontario 

Get in touch with us at 

editor@eatdrink.ca 

Scotch and Chocolate: Share the warmth as Kristene 

Steed of Rheo Thompson Candies pairs up with a whisky 

expert for a smooth tasting of scotch and chocolate. Saturday, 

December 13. www.visitstratford.ca/tastings 

A Wind in the Willows Christmas — Join Alternative 

Theatre Works this holiday season in this delightful familyfriendly 

adventure to Mole End! This fresh adaptation by 

Alternative Theatre Works 

of A Wind in the Willows is 

back and sure to be a holiday 

classic in Stratford. Special 

guest Graham Greene takes 

on the character of Toad, 

joining some of Stratford’s 

most beloved actors, Stephen 

Russell, Brad Rudy and 

Robert King. Come and 

share this heartwarming tale 

of friendship, generosity and 

the joy of being home for 

Christmas in Stratford. The cast 

is pleased to welcome Stratford actress Jessica Seguin as 

Head Mouse! The Masonic Hall, December 17–30. Don’t miss 

out on an experience that is sure to bring joy to your whole 

family this festive season. www.visitstratford.ca/wind 

Reserve Now for Your 

HOLIDAY PARTIES 

Open WED to SUN 

11am to 10:30pm 

“Pure 

Chinese” 

Cuisine 

—eatdrink 

NEW 

MENUS 

NOW HERE 

Five Fortune Culture 

RESTAURANT 

366 Richmond Street at King 

www.fivefortuneculture.com 

226 667 9873 

117 King Street 

across from Budweiser Gardens 

519-434-2272 (CASA) 

www.lacasaristorante.com 

“Enjoy consistently 

outstanding Italian and 

Mediterranean cuisine 

enhanced by local and 

seasonal ingredients.” 

OPEN 

Monday–Saturday 

Lunch & Dinner


farmers & artisans 

The Food Web 

Part 4 — Autumn to Winter 

By ANTONY JOHN 

The passing of Labour Day heralds 

a number of changes to our farm. 

From now until the snows of 

December, we are entering full 

harvest mode, and everything rides on its 

successful conclusion. 

We have invested up to eight months 

on some crops such as celeriac and leeks, 

seeding, transplanting, weeding, more 

weeding, and protecting them from various 

pests and diseases. All this has soaked up 

large amounts of time, space, organic inputs, 

and labour, and it’s too easy to lose one’s 

shirt over inefficiencies at harvest time. 

There is a system for doing everything on a 

farm. I learned that fresh out of university 

on my first trip home to Tina’s farm. The 

only thing that kept me going mucking out 

the calf pens was pride, as Tina out-paced 

me time and again, forking manure-packed 

straw into a wheelbarrow. She had a system, 

and I would do well to learn it. 

It is therefore a good thing that when 

the time comes to harvest the fruits (well, 

vegetables) of our labour, our crew has had 

eight months 

to learn the 

various systems 

we’ve developed, 

to quickly and carefully 

harvest each of the 50 or so crops we grow. I 

don’t think I can say enough about the skill 

level required to efficiently harvest items 

requiring a high degree of in-field editing for 

our discerning customers, or how impressed 

I am by our team’s ability to carry it off week 

after week, in any weather. 

There is more than just a shift in tempo 

and scenery on our farm as we move into fall. 

Around the middle of August, the soundscape 

changes, almost overnight. Now that the 

young of the season have fledged and left their 

nests, male birds no longer need to expend 

energy advertising territories (remember, 

efficiency), and so they stop singing. Fall 

is the time of the insects. The farm chorus 

switches from the complex harmonies and 

arias of the birds, to the buzzes, chirps, and 

trills of cicadas, grasshoppers, crickets, and 

katydids, while the ever-present bees provide


Harvesting the leeks and Dino Kale 

To market, to market 

Kalette sprouts 

a background drone (pun intended), and 

more and more butterflies appear, to feed 

on developing flowers. It’s as if the insects 

are providing a soundtrack for the buzz of 

energy and electricity on our farm as it gears 

up for fall harvest. 

The most important consideration in the 

crops we grow isn’t yield, it’s flavour. As I 

see it, there are four forces at work that, in 

combination, will have a huge bearing on 

the flavour of the food we grow. They are: 

seed, soil, climate, and the farmer. 

There is huge variation in flavour 

intensity and profile within each vegetable 

seed variety available on the market, and 

the farmer typically balances practical 


considerations such as days to maturity or 

ease of mechanical harvest, with the flavour 

characteristics of each variety, as he makes 

his choice of what to grow (yes Virginia, 

there IS a trade off here). 

Soil also has a massive bearing on flavour 

development, and the farmer (working with 

soil consultants), has the ability to manage 

much more than the N, P, and K levels 

(nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), 

to boost flavour and shelf life through 

micronutrient management as well. 

Climate, and its impact on flavour, is the 

main reason why our farm is such a late 

finisher in the harvest race. As root crops 

develop, fall frosts trigger a biochemical 

reaction in the still-growing crops. Belowfreezing 

temperatures signal the plants to 

manufacture anti-freeze, so the roots survive 

the winter, and that anti-freeze (luckily for 

us), is sugar. Successive frosts cause the 

plants to convert the starches in their roots 

into sugars (evolutionarily speaking, that’s 

one of the reasons they have starchy roots 

in the first place). Once again, it’s up to 

the farmer to take advantage of this or not, 

through planting and harvest timing. 

As with most things in life, it seems that 

one can’t grow good tasting food without a 

trade-off in effort. 

As the Snow Buntings arrive in December 

to overwinter on our farm (and eat our 

pigweed seeds!), we will be wrapping up 

our harvest and, hopefully, filling our cold 

storage with healthy, tasty vegetables for 

our restaurant and market customers, 

through Christmas dinner and into the cold 

months of winter. Come January, we start 

the cycle again. 

ANTONY 

JOHN is an 

organic farmer, 

painter and avid 

birdwatcher. 

He lives near 

Stratford. This is 

the fourth and 

final in a series 

of reflections 

on the food we 

grow and buy.


travel 

Deliciously Lost in Italy 

By CLAUDIA VIANI 

Ihave lost count of how many times 

I have been to Italy, and whenever 

someone asks me where to go and what 

to see there I simply tell them to “get 

lost”. Whether you’re travelling independently 

or on a scheduled tour, to truly capture the 

essence of this beautiful destination make sure 

that you always find time to explore and to 

make discoveries on your own. 

I recently travelled there with 27 photo 

enthusiasts, and our 14-day journey began 

in the Eternal City. First stop was a mostly 

private stroll on the antique Appian Way, 

one of the earliest and most strategically 

important roads of ancient Rome. Today it 

is mainly enjoyed by locals, as a passeggiata 

and an escape from the summer heat 

and tourist crowds ... which we also later 

encountered. Few cities in the world 

can compare with Rome and its ancient 

wonders…the Colosseum, the Forum, the 

Palatine Hills and, of course, the three main 

piazzas — the Trevi Fountain, Spanish 

Steps and my favourite, Piazza Navona. The 

other must-see is Vatican City, showcasing 

Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican Museums, 

and one of Michelangelo’s masterpieces, 

the Sistine Chapel. 

A delicious discovery in the Tuscan city of Lucca 

For three days we walked, experienced, and 

photographed, and soon discovered that most 

of the tourists are gone by sundown, allowing us 

to savour quiet evenings dining al fresco in local 

cafés and trattorias. Fresh-out-of-the-oven lasagna, 

minestrone and various pasta dishes with local wine 

selections were enjoyed by all…diets forgotten or 

ignored. My most memorable Roman dish was ricotta 

and spinach filled homemade ravioli, with either a 

porcini mushroom or gorgonzola sauce. The owner 

proudly allowed me to sample both. Unfortunately I 

discovered this dish on our last evening. 

We moved on to Tuscany, travelling bright and 

early towards the Val D’Orcia region. After busy and 

hectic Rome, this provided a peaceful and serene 

environment. Brief stops to enjoy a local village 

At San Donato Winery, on the hills of San Gimignano



Il Duomo dominates the 

skyline of Florence. Left, 

detail from a statue in St. 

Peter’s Basilica in Rome 

antique car show 

and the quaint hilltop 

town of Pienza 

left us all wanting 

more of the same, 

but Siena awaited. 

We were welcomed with a 

typical Italian Sunday pranzo 

(mid-day meal). After the antipastos 

and three types of pasta 

were served, I recognized the 

panic in everyone’s faces, upon 

the realization that this was 

only the second course of our 

lunch, with at least two more to 

come. I have often witnessed 

this reaction at my parents’ 

home with first-time meal 

guests. We persevered and 

after lunch waddled through 

what was left of our afternoon 

in what is likely Italy’s loveliest 

medieval city. Fortunately 

Siena was built over three hills, 

allowing us to walk off most of our meal. 

Next stop and base for five days was 

Lucca. A beautiful Tuscan town protected 

by perfectly preserved thick 16th-century 

walls, Lucca is a city to stroll through. 

Featuring some of Italy’s finest medieval and 

Renaissance architecture, superb cuisine 

and shopping, a few of the must-sees are 

the Piazza Anfiteatro (built on the site of an 

original Roman amphitheatre), the Guinigi 

Tower with a tree growing on top, and of 

course the city’s wide walls — which can be 

enjoyed either on foot or by bicycle (the town 

offers bike rentals by the day or the week.) 

Everyone loved Lucca. This is where we 

enjoyed the best thin-crust wood oven pizza 

and savoured two other memorable dishes: 

local meat-filled tordelli with ragout sauce 

(probably lovingly handmade by someone’s 

nonna), and tagliatelle with freshly shaved 

white truffles. Need I say more? Oh yes — 

local wines and gelato! 

As a traditional Lucchese I ended each 

meal with a corretto (espresso coffee with 

a splash of liquor — I preferred Sambuca). 

Our group leader is now also hooked, and 

will be trying it at home. 

From Lucca we enjoyed a day trip to Cinque 

Terre, the perfect sunny day allowing us to 

reach the five villages by boat. Another day 

brought us to Monteriggioni and a leisurely 

wine tasting and lunch at a nearby winery, 

which resulted in the cancellation of a planned 

visit to San Gimignano. These things happen 

when one is experiencing la Dolce Vita. 

Buildings are terraced on the steep and rugged 

landscape of Cinque Terre


A Taste of Europe since 1974 

40YEAR 

Anniversary 

Giovanni, barista at the Bar Spuntineria da Aristo di 

Lorenzo Togneri, in Barga, offered samples of local 

cheese and cured meats 

We also enjoyed our trip to another 

medieval town, Barga — aka “The most 

Scottish place in Italy”. The link to Scotland 

dates back to the early 1850s and many 

locals still maintain a strong connection 

to their Scottish roots. Arriving in the early 

afternoon allowed us the luxury of wandering 

the streets practically on our own. For avid 

photographers this is a wish come true, as 

there will not be any (other) pesky tourists 

featured in their perfectly framed shot! 

Giovanni, a very colourful barista at 

the Bar Spuntineria da Aristo, invited me 

to sample local cured meats and cheese, 

which this area of Tuscany (Garfagnana) is 

well known for in culinary circles. In return 

I promised that I would mention him and 

include his photograph with this article. 

We moved on to Florence (our home for 

three nights) via brief visits to the seaside 

town of Viareggio and the Piazza dei 

Miracoli in Pisa. Our photographers were 

quite creative in their compositions while in 

Pisa, one actually framed a perfect shot of 

the tower so that it no longer leaned! 

Along with group visits to iconic landmarks 

and points of interest such as the Cathedral of 

Santa Maria del Fiore, Brunelleschi’s Duomo, 

Michelangelo’s David and Ponte Vecchio, 

we ventured out on our own and came back 

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The hill town of Montalcino, in 

Tuscany is famous for its Brunello 

(one of Italy’s best-known and 

expensive wines) 

with exciting discoveries. One was the English 

Cemetery, where over half of the unique and 

decorative graves are occupied by members 

of the Anglo-Florentine community of the 

early 1800’s, including poet Elizabeth Barrett 

Browning and American sculptor Hiram 

Powers. Another was the incredible church 

and museum of Santa Croce, the burial 

place of Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli, 

Leonardo da Vinci and Galileo. I also enjoyed 

losing myself in a local 

Sunday afternoon antique 

flea market. 

After much gelato and 

many photographs of this 

Renaissance city, we moved 

on to the last leg of our 

incredible trip, Venice! One 

of the most interesting and 

lovely places in the world, 

this “open air museum” 

contains the world’s most 

artistic masterpieces per 

square kilometer. It was 

built on a marshy lagoon and is almost the 

same as it was six hundred years ago. Linked 

by over 450 bridges it provides delightful 

surprises at every turn. One of the highlights 

was a guided tour of Venice’s famous La 

Fenice Opera House, a renowned landmark 

in the history of Italian theatre. Like the 

phoenix for which it was named, it finally 

rose from the ashes for a third time in 2004. 

Restored to its former glory, it has since 

regained its status among the world’s top 

opera houses. 

Whether you partake in a gondola ride, 

visit one of the many cathedrals or galleries, 

or enjoy a cappuccino in St. Mark’s Square 

while watching the world go by, Venice is not 

to be missed. Whenever I visit I make a point 

of venturing away from the popular areas to 

discover the calm, beautiful, magical side 

of this city. Before long I find myself in a 

Venice with kids kicking a soccer ball around 

a deserted campo, and locals sitting in park 

benches chatting with their neighbors. I 

briefly close my eyes and take in the familiar 

aroma of fresh cappuccino coming from 

nearby cafés. 

That is how I feel most at home and 

deliriously lost in Italy! 

CLAUDIA VIANI is an avid traveller and has worked in 

the travel industry for over 35 years. She is a Director, Leisure 

Operations Canada, for Carlson Wagonlit Travel.. 

Colourful buildings line the canal in Burano, 

an island in the Venetian Lagoon


in the garden 

Decorating Outside-In 

Bring Nature Indoors for Outstanding Holiday Displays 

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN 

You might be surprised what you can find for 

holiday decorating in your own yard. Check 

it out now to survey the possibilities 

for when the time is right. Pour 

yourself a holiday drink to put you in the mood, 

and try to look at your outdoors with new eyes. 

Have two drinks and you will! Remember that 

using fresh means that it has a “shelf life” and by 

cutting your own you get the freshest! 

Any evergreen can work beautifully in holiday 

arrangements. Each has its own character and 

fragrance. Take advantage of your private source 

and design accordingly. Maybe something 

could use a little pruning? If so, wait until you’re 

ready to decorate before you prune. 

Twigs are very popular for winter arrangements 

and red osier dogwood is a favourite because of its 

perfect deep red colour. However, any twig with an 

interesting bark will give you a great look: birch, 

paperbark maple, willow, curly willow and kerria 

are all great choices. Look at your trees and shrubs 

without the leaves with this in mind, and again, 

maybe something needs a little pruning. 

If you have conifers in your garden, you have 

a source of cones. Spruce, pine and even the tiny 

cones on cedars are decorative. Cones can be 

arranged in a clear vase with berries added, or 

incorporated into arrangements for your table or 

outdoor urns and wreaths. 

Don’t worry if you don’t have your own, you can 

still be crafty by supporting locally sourced greens 

from markets and independent garden shops. 

Indoor Blooming Beauties! 

If you enjoy long-blooming flowers indoors in the 

winter months, they don’t get more rewarding than 

Amaryllis. Most are native to South Africa and are 

sold in the fall for us to enjoy, potted up indoors. 

The larger the bulb, the more blooms — the topsize 

bulbs often give you two to three stalks each with 

five to seven flowers per stalk — what a show! 

Planning is important as different varieties 

bloom at different times. There are a few varieties 

that will bloom for the holidays, but act fast as 

their bloom time is approximately six weeks from 

Winterberry on White Birch 

Holiday arrangement 

Red Osier Dogwood, Boxwood, Cedar cones 

Winterberry and Pine



Beautiful indoor winter blooms — Amaryllis (left) 

is available in numerous colours and varieties, and 

Paperwhites (below left) offer a fresh spring scent. 

planting. These early bloomers come in crisp 

whites, cherry reds and combinations of the 

two — perfect for a holiday arrangement. 

Often they are planted singly, and can be 

placed anywhere, but a grouping of three 

or five in a large container makes a great 

feature centrepiece. For holiday bloomers, 

choose from some new arrivals this year: 

Vixen — a deep red; Comet — a white petal 

with red brush strokes; Blitzen — red petals 

with white accents; or Dancer — pure white 

petals with a green throat. Many other 

varieties are available that will bloom into 

the new year — perfect for winter enjoyment 

and for gift giving. There are more colours 

and variety options with the later bloomers. 

Colours such as chartreuse, deep red, pinks 

and lemon yellow are so welcome in the 

middle of winter. Later blooming choices 

also offer lush double petal varieties and 

novelty selections that are shorter and 

multi-flowering. They offer great value and 

last for weeks in bloom. For best and most 

reliable results, pot up your Amaryllis in a 

container with drainage, using fresh potting 

soil. Finish the pot with moss, cones or 

decorative stones. 

Paperwhites are another favourite for 

indoor arrangements as they are very easy to 

grow and produce a great show. Customers 

have commented lately their strategy for 

Paperwhites is to buy extra bulbs and pot up 

some now (approximately six weeks to bloom 

from planting). Store the extra bulbs in the 

crisper for planting into the new year. Many 

love the sweet fresh spring fragrance, but if 

you find the fragrance too strong, place your 

arrangement in your foyer or somewhere 

you’re not sitting — they can take the cool 

drafts of the door opening and closing. 

Paperwhites are typically not planted in 

soil. Using a dish or favourite container with 

no drainage, fill the bottom two to three 

inches with stones, pea gravel or glass beads, 

etc. Place the bulbs on the “stones” and top 

up with enough more stone to hold the bulbs 

in place (one inch). Fill with water to the 

bottom of the bulb and your work is done! 

Surprisingly, both Amaryllis and 

Paperwhites grow best in indirect light and 

away from any heat source, so they make an 

easy to grow, perfect houseplant. 

Using your garden as your private collection 

of holiday materials is both challenging and 

rewarding. You might be surprised with what 

you find and will very likely enjoy creating 

your own fresh arrangements. The Amaryllis 

and Paperwhites work well with fresh material 

for holiday decorating, as they give the 

complimentary textures and pop of colour. 

Enjoy your holiday decorating and have a 

happy holiday season. 

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own 

Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be 

found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, 

and at various gardening events around the region.


wine 

Launching 2015 in Style 

The 10th Anniversary London Wine & Food Show 

SAMPLING OF THE FINEST CUISINE, 

CRAFT BEERS, SPIRITS AND WINES. 

By CECILIA BUY 

London is situated in one of the most 

agriculturally productive areas of 

farmland in Ontario, and for over 

a hundred and fifty years Western 

Fair has hosted fairs, competitions, sales 

and other events for farmers, producers and 

consumers from the surrounding region. 

About ten years ago the Agriplex was 

constructed specifically to host livestock 

shows and agricultural events in the 

Western Fair District. 

Around the same time, Londoners 

flocked to the first annual Wine & 

Food Show, a three-day event that 

celebrates the culinary life of Ontario. 

This coming January will see a very 

apt convergence of venue and event, 

when the 10th Annual Wine& Food 

Show is held in the newly refurbished 

Agriplex. 

Each successive year the Wine & 

Food Show has provided more visitors 

the opportunity to discover and enjoy 

more food and beverage products, and 

related businesses and services. The 

move to the Agriplex will offer a much 

larger space than the previous location 

(the combined Progress and Canada 

buildings). Upgrades to the electrical, 

heating/ventilation and air-conditioning 

systems, as well 

as improved 

food- and 

beveragerelated 

facilities 

will make 

the new venue more pleasurable January 15-17, for 2015 both 

THU 5PM–10:30PM | FRI 5PM–10:30PM | SAT NOON–10:30PM 

visitors and exhibitors. 

So, what exactly can you expect from this 

98% 

$ 

10 

Plan on buying products 

showcased by exhibitors* 

would recommend 

98% this show to others* 89 

Celebrate the 10th anniversary of the London Wine & Food Show 

by expeiencing the event on opening night for only $10 

#LDNWineFood 

WesternFairDistrict 

@WesternFair 

Entertaining chefs, such as 2014 visitor Bob Blumer (above), 

cookbook author and TV “gastronaut,” attract appreciative 

audiences throughout the three-day event 

show? Advance tickets are twelve dollars. 

If you plan to taste (of course you plan to 

taste!) you’ll get ten sample coupons 

for ten dollars. (There is a couple’s 

package available). Exhibitors offer 

samples for varying numbers of 

coupons. 

Visit individual winemakers, brewers 

and distillers from across Ontario, 

as well as agents and international 

distributors. Check out booths where 

local and regional restaurateurs, 

caterers and hotels and inns offer 

The show presents dozens of unique 

opportunities to try something new 

*2014 L



information, 

as well as food 

samples from 

their chefs. 

Discover artisanal 

cheeses, 

chocolates 

and pastries, 

organic foods, 

and locally 

roasted coffees. 

If you can think 

of a food or a 

beverage that 

is produced in 

Southwestern 

Ontario, you’ll 

The Cooking Stage presents demonstrations on cooking, food 

and wine pairing, and more 

probably find it at the Wine & Food Show — 

offered by the people who make it, bake it, 

or brew it, ready and willing to answer your 

questions. 

Have a taste (or a thirst) for knowledge? 

There are cooking stage presentations by 

chefs, mixologists and food producers. 

Take a seat to enjoy the action or get up 

close so you can be one of the lucky ones 

to get a sample of the finished dish. There 

are also demonstrations and sampling 

sessions for classic wine and cheese and 

other food pairings and tasting seminars on 

your favourite beverages: wines and beers, 

certainly, and perhaps even on bourbon 

or vodka. (Tasting seminars are free, and 

popular. So register when you arrive to make 

sure you have a place.)


Sample coupons are the 

currency of the Wine 

& Food Show, allowing 

visitors to get a taste 

of the many food and 

beverage selections on 

offer. 

And because you’ll be having fun 

with all this tasting and discovering, 

you might decide to plan your 

next day trip, weekend road trip, 

or extended vacation, with the 

help of regional tourism or winery 

association representatives. 

The London Wine & Food Show 

has become one of the premier 

culinary events for both exhibitors 

and visitors. Don’t miss this one! 

The 10th Anniversary London 

Wine & Food Show 

Western Fair District, 900 King 

Street, London 

www.westernfairdistrict.com 

thursday january 15, 5–10:30pm 

friday, january 16, 5–10:30pm 

saturday, january 17, 12 noon– 

10:30pm 

Must be 19+ years to attend. 

CECILIA BUY is eatdrink’s Managing Editor 

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blacktrumpet.ca



BEER MATTERS 

beer matters 

What to Give the Discerning 

Foam-Head Who Has Everything 

By THE MALT MONK 

As I pen this 

column, I 

still savour 

the afterglow 

of this autumn’s 

profusion of crafted 

seasonal brews — fresh 

piquant wet hop ales, 

spicy pumpkin ales, 

rich satisfying orange 

Marzens, warming 

amber harvest ales and the first of the big 

dark brews of the frigid quaffing season. 

Autumn 2014 saw the best selection of local 

and imported crafted seasonal brews that I 

can recall. It’s a great time to be a craft beer 

fan, with so much choice on tap at your local 

craft beer oasis. 

This column will be a shameless plug for 

gift shopping — mostly for those who have 

a special foam-head they want to buy for, 

but may be a bit unsure where to start. If you 

haven’t the requisite beer nerd knowledge 

to hunt down the exotic brews a manic 

beirophile craves, don’t stress — this is giftcertificate-at-his-favourite-watering-hole 

territory. Or you can shop the beer gift packs 

that appear at the LCBO. But, if you want to put 

something special under the tree, something 

that won’t fail to delight the most ardent 

beer lover, you can’t go wrong with specialty 

glassware, or unique/collectable bottle 

openers or other breweriana —signs, coasters, 

trays, mats, tap handles, etc.— all of which are 

prized collectables in brew nerd culture. 

Appropriate glassware is an essential part 

of the proper presentation and enjoyment 

of artisan-crafted beers. Yes, the different 

shapes of beer glasses have a purpose. This 

is so important that many world class beer 

cafés in Europe will not serve beer unless the 

proper glassware is available: 

Weizen Glass 

Design: Tall and slender, rounded out into a bulge at the top. 

Reason A nice thick cap which forms in the top bulb really 

increases the enjoyment of a wheat beer, holding in all 

those great spicy phenols and fruity esters — a 

full complement to an unfiltered hefeweizen’s 

taste. It also gives a visual show of the brew’s 

heading, effervescence and opaque coloring. 

Beer Styles: Weizen, Heffeweizen, Witbier, 

Weizenbock, Gose


Pilsner Flute 

Design: Tall glass, slender, tapering at the bottom, 

sometimes with a stem. 

Reason: The height of the glass allows the beer to 

show off its colour and carbonation. A nice head 

can be built at the wider top opening, which will 

trap the floral-biscuity aroma of the beer while 

the bubbles spiral up from the bottom of the 

glass to feed the head. 

Beer Styles: Pilsner, Helles Lager, Maibock, Dampftbier, 

Steam Beer 

Stangen 

Design: 100 ml -200 ml straight-walled cylinder, 

usually thin glass. The name translates as “pole,” 

used in Cologne and Leipzig. 

Reason: Highlights the effervescence and aids in 

“quaffing” more than one beer. 

Beer Styles: Kolsch, Gosebier 

French Jelly Tumbler 

Design: Thick ribbed tumbler in 1 and ½ pints 

Reason: Originally used for making preserves, 

became the preferred glass for serving Belgian 

witbiers and lambics. 

Beer Styles: Witbier, Weissbier, Lambic 

Nonic (UK Pint) 

Design: Basically cylindrical, wider at the mouth than the 

bottom, with a slight bulge just below the rim. 

One of the most common beer glasses, with 

several European variations. 

Reason: Wide mouth allows proper amount of 

head to form. Glass won’t slip from hands when 

sweating because of the grip bulge. Easy to 

handle, stack and store. 

Beer Styles: Lager, Pale Ale, ESB, Mild Ale, IPA, Stout, Porter, 

Beer cocktails 

Dimpled Mug 

Design: Round and squat, thick sides, with a 

handle. 

Reason: Allows a large quantity of beer, with 

plenty of room for head. Sturdy enough for 

sliding down the bar and for toasting. Use 

handle to hold the beer without warming it. A 

quaffer’s delight. 

Beer Styles: Golden/Amber Ale, Lager, IPA, Porter, Bock, 

Stout, Cream Ale — any session beer. 

Stoneware Stein 

Design: From plain to elaborately decorated fired stone 

vessel — usually 1 liter, often with a hinged lid. 

Reason: Traditional Germanic beer vessel keeps 

beer cold, closed cap keeps head and beer 

fresh (and insects or other airborne objects 

out of your beer), hard to break. 

Beer Styles: Pale lagers, Marzens, Hellerbier, 

Edelhell, Altbier, Dunkel 

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Flute 

Design: Elegant and tall, resembling a champagne 

glass with a slightly shorter stem 

Reason: Presentation — allows the colours of the 

beer to tease the eye as the natural bubbles 

spiral up the sides, particularly lambic fruit beers. 

Design aids carbonation retention. 

Beer Styles: Lambic, Faro, Weizenbock, Saison, 

Printemps, bottle-conditioned sparkling brews 

Tulip/Thistle 

Design: The tulip glass has a bulbous body, supported by a 

stem. Narrows and then widens at the top. The 

Thistle’s bottom bulb more pronounced and is 

the only glass for scotch ales. 

Reason: Use stem to hold the beer without warming 

it. The mouth design promotes a nice hefty 

head, trapping delicious flavor within the beer, 

and holding its aromas close. 

Beer Styles: Scotch Ales, Pale Ale, Strong Ale, Old/Reserve 

ales, DIPA, Lambic, Gueuze 

Goblet/Chalice 

Design: Large heavy body, wide mouth opening, supported 

by a thick stem. Bottom walls of glass are thick, 

sometimes becoming thinner near the mouth. 

Reason: Traditional monastic ale vessel. Scores 

in the bottom of the glass allow continual 

carbonation, and often support up to two full 

inches of head. 

Beer Styles: Belgian IPA, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, 

Trappist, Dubbel, Tripel, Quadrupel, etc. 

Malt Monk’s Pick o’ the Month 

Despite the novelty name, Nickelbrook’s 

Pissed Off Pete’s Pumpkin Porter (limited 

availability, on tap only) is a 

seriously good, sturdy dark brew 

with a decent malt backbone 

and a spicy-roasty demeanor. 

It taps off a shimmering deep 

dark brown cola color with ruby 

highlights and holds its creamy 

off-white cap well. The aroma is 

big with roasty-cocoa, a very slight 

smokiness then highlighted with 

pumpkin pie spices (cinnamon, 

nutmeg, allspice, some cloves) 

plus a barely detectable musty 

herbaciousness mingling with the 

hop tones. The flavour is a delight 

with elements coming together 

on the palate in a well-managed amalgam, 

giving a great sense of enjoyment and 

comfort as it slowly goes a bit dry, in a clean 

roasty-zesty finish. Great brew with a goofy 

name — rebrand it and my money says it 

would be a popular seasonal in bottle or can. 


Snifter 

Design: The bottom bulges into a bowl shape, 

tapering into a narrow mouth, just as 

traditional cognac and brandy glasses. 

Reason: Head and aroma retention. Meant for 

refined beers with a strong bouquet aroma, to 

give nose access to these beers as they warm 

in the glass. 

Beer Styles: Barleywine, Strong Ale, Pale Ale, IPA, Eisbock, 

Double Stout, Robust Porter, Tripel, Quadrupel, 

Foot/Yard/Boot 

Design: Unique glassware for fun and beer games. The yard 

and foot glass are named for their height. Typically 

a long cylinder with a trumpet mouth bulging 

out into a bowl at the bottom. The boot glass 

resembles a boot, and is usually of thicker glass. 

Reason: The yard glass is mostly used for pub 

contests, to see who can drink the most beer 

the quickest. Legend has it this contest was 

developed by stagecoach drivers, who drank 

much in a hurry — a stand is needed for these. 

The boot glass owes its origins to a crafty general 

who bragged if his troops won he’d drink beer 

from a boot. 

Beer Styles: Usually mild or moderate session ales and lagers. 

Where to shop? Support your local retailers: 

www.bradshawscanada.com 

www.jillstable.ca 

www.kissthecookonline.com 

www.trimen.com (formerly Restaurant Equipment & Supply) 

Foam Watcher News 

Beer Lab Brewing Company is up and 

running in London. The business plan calls 

for small batch, barrel aged artisinal beers 

to be sold on tap solely at Milos’ Craft Beer 

Emporium. Beer Lab Brewing is a collective 

enterprise involving Adil Ahmid, Milos 

Kral (of Milos 

pub) and the 

“Denim Bros.” 

So far they 

have produced 

an interesting well-hopped pale utilizing 

Citra, Nelson Sauvin, and Mosaic hops 

called “Hellooooo Nurse,” a heavy session 

ale. Brown Porter and other great barreled 

offerings are in the conditioning stage. 

Capacity is small so the released brews are 

gobbled up quickly — best to keep informed 

when one goes on tap. There is a Facebook 

page for release info. 

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a 

passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in 

the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/


cookbooks 

Jamie’s Comfort Food 

Scrumptious Happy Classics 

By Jamie Oliver 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

Jamie Oliver has made it his life’s 

work to make good food accessible 

to everyone. He’s made a meal in 15 

minutes, made it affordable, brought 

it to school lunches, brought it into 

communities, and had it prepared by at-risk 

youth. He has tried to reduce the risk of poor 

health due to lack of nutrition in at least two 

countries. There’s no doubt that he knows 

about food. 

In his latest book, Oliver brings us his 

take on the food that makes us feel fantastic. 

Jamie’s Comfort Food; Scrumptious Happy 

Classics isn’t about unusual ingredients 

or trendy techniques. It’s about making 

delicious food that fills you up physically 

and emotionally — and about making the 

best possible version of that food. 

These are the recipes you cook because you 

want to surprise your other half with a special 

meal, because you had a hard week and need 

some pampering, or because your friends 

are coming over to watch a game and have a 

few drinks. The ones you make because 

you got a promotion and want to 

celebrate. These are recipes for 

real life. 

I believe that the best 

cookbooks inspire readers 

with great photos, 

and this book delivers 

in spades. Every dish 

has at least one picture 

by award-winning photographer 

David Loftus 

and they all look amazing. 

There’s even a beautiful 

picture of porridge, something 

I would have thought 

impossible. To anyone who loves 

food, this book is worth the 40 bucks just 

for the photos. 

Oliver 

surrounds 

himself with a team of experts 

whose food-ninja skills shine through in this 

book. There’s a photo index with nutritional 

information to help you decide how the 

recipes fit into your lifestyle. Estimated 

preparation times make it easier to plan your 

meal and the index lets you know which 

recipes are suitable for vegetarian diets. All 

of this in a book which is not meant to be 

about dieting, time-saving or vegetarianism. 

It speaks to Jamie Oliver’s belief that food is 

a part of life, all the time and should always 

be just that simple. 

The biggest challenge in this review 

was deciding which recipes to try first. My 

husband was kind enough to make the Best 

Bun Cha Bowl, as he knows it’s one of my 

favourite weekend lunches. This 

version was very satisfying. I 

particularly like the shredded 

cabbage tossed with the 

tangy dressing. It was a 

nice kick among all the 

fresh vegetables. I’d 

probably skip the pork 

next time and double 

up on the shrimp. The 

beauty of this recipe 

Jamie Oliver is that it’s infinitely 

adaptable. If you like your 

food spicy, as we do, I’d 

suggest adding extra chiles 

to the dressing, or use your 

favourite hot sauce. A shot of Sriracha 

would make this just right.


The Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich is 

a new twist for me but I’ll use any excuse 

to make homemade bread. In this case a 

gorgeous focaccia was the perfect vehicle for 

the wonderfully messy eggplant parmigiana. 

I did scale back the recipe; the original was 

written to serve 16 people! It’s definitely on 

the menu the next time we have a bunch of 

people over. 

Anyone who has watched Jamie Oliver 

cook on TV is familiar with his fast-paced, 

high-energy style of talking. The recipes 


read exactly the same way. You can almost 

hear him narrate the story of the food as you 

read. If the book has one flaw, it’s that all this 

wordiness makes the print tiny. It’s a small 

price to pay for such an inspiring cookbook. 

I hope my family isn’t reading this right now 

because for Christmas they are all getting a 

copy of Jamie’s Comfort Food. 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in 

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Recipes courtesy of Jamie’s Comfort Food; Scrumptious Happy Classics (Harper Collins Publishers Ltd; Sept 2014; $38) 

Best Bun Cha Bowls 

Serves 4 

50 minutes 

539 calories 

1 large handful of shelled unsalted peanuts 

¼ of a green cabbage 

1 bunch of fresh mint (1 oz) 

½ a bunch of fresh basil (½ oz) 

4 scallions 

½ an iceberg lettuce 

7 oz bean sprouts (ready to eat) 

½ an English cucumber 

2 carrots 

5 oz vermicelli rice noodles 

8 large raw shell-on jumbo shrimp 

7 oz pork belly (skin removed) 

1 onion 

4 tablespoons hoisin sauce 

DRESSING 

3 fresh red chiles 

2 heaping tablespoons superfine sugar 

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 

4 tablespoons fish sauce 

2 limes 

This is a Vietnamese classic from Hanoi — 

“bun” means fine noodle, “cha” means fatty 

pork — and it’s often served in markets at 

lunchtime when you’re allowed to grill on the 

street. It’s served cold in summer and hot in 

winter, so it’s a real all-year-round dish. The 

idea is to build your own bowl, choosing the 

combination of meat, herbs, and veggies that you 

fancy. I’ve paired pork belly with delicious sticky 

shrimp here, to give this version an extra edge. 

What we’re going to do is assemble a load of little 

bowls and plates of garnishes, but we’ll kick it off by 

making a big jam jar of dressing. Finely chop 2 chiles 

and place in a large clean jar with the sugar, vinegar, 

fish sauce, lime juice, and 1/3 cup of boiling water. 

Secure the lid and shake well until sugar is dissolved. 

Toss the peanuts in a frying pan, smash them 

up with a mortar and pestle, and place in a 

bowl. Very finely slice the cabbage (ideally on a 

mandolin — use the guard!) and scrunch well with 

4 tablespoons of the dressing and an extra swig 

of vinegar in a bowl. Pick the mint and basil leaves 

into bowls of cold water. Trim and finely slice the 

scallions and the remaining chile, shred the iceberg 

lettuce, and put it all on a little plate with the bean 

sprouts. Halve the cucumber lengthwise and seed


with a teaspoon, then finely slice (I like to use a 

crinkle-cut knife). Peel the carrots and grate into 

another bowl. Pour boiling water over the noodles, 

cover, and leave to soak for 5 minutes, or until soft, 

then drain and refresh under cold water. 

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Peel the shrimp, leaving the tails on, run your knife 

down the back, and pull out the veins, then run the 

knife down again to butterfly them. Chop the pork 

belly quite finely and fry in a hot pan until golden 

while you peel and finely slice the onion, then add 

it to the pan. Stir-fry for 5 minutes, then throw in 

the shrimp. Cook for a final couple of minutes, add 

the hoisin to glaze everything, and tip onto a plate. 

Place all your garnishes in the middle of the table 

with the jam jar dressing and four large serving 

bowls, and let everyone build their own exciting 

bun cha bowl. 

*Embrace the spirit of this recipe and 

tweak the ingredients to your liking. Grilled 

squid would be delicious, as would slices 

of perfectly cooked steak. It’s also a great 

opportunity to embrace any seasonal 

veggies you can get your hands on. 

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Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich 


Serves 16 

2 hours 40 minutes Plus Proofing 

476 Calories 

FOCACCIA 

1 x ¼-oz package of active dry yeast 

7 ½ cups strong bread flour, plus extra for 

dusting 

quality extra virgin olive oil 

PARMIGIANA 

8 medium eggplants 

7 oz stale bread 

7 oz Parmesan cheese 

8 cloves garlic 

1 bunch fresh basil (1 oz) 

olive oil 

1 teaspoon dried oregano 

1 ¼ cups red wine (Barbera d’Alba or d’Asti 

from Piedmont is perfection, or use a 

Valpolicella or Chianti) 

4 x 14-oz cans of plum tomatoes 

3 x 4-oz balls of mozzarella cheese 

8 oz arugula 

1 lemon 

Having a mouthful of this sandwich should be 

a human right. Eggplant parmigiana, which is 

a beautiful veggie side dish or main in its own 

right, is at the heart of this story but rammed 

into a soft light focaccia as a sarnie [sandwich] 

it’s a total game changer. It’s a great party 

food, especially at lunchtime with a delicious 

green salad and a few nice cold beers. 

Whisk the yeast into 2 ½ cups of tepid water 

and leave for 5 minutes. Put the flour and 1 

teaspoon of sea salt into a large bowl and create 

a well in the middle. Pour in the yeasty water and 

use a spoon to bring in the flour until it becomes 

too hard to mix, then bring it together with clean 

floured hands and knead for 5 minutes, or until 

elastic. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 hour, 

or until doubled in size. Knock back the dough, 

then push it into a large roasting pan (12 x 16 

inches). Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of extra virgin 

olive oil and poke it all over with your fingertips, 

right to the bottom. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, 

then leave until doubled in size again. 

While the bread is proofing, preheat the oven to 

350ºF. Slice the eggplants lengthwise into ¾-inchthick 

slices. Season generously with salt and leave 

to drain in a colander for 20 minutes. Tear the bread 

into a food processor and whiz to fine crumbs, 

sprinkle over a large baking sheet, and bake for 10 

minutes. Switch to the fine grater blade and whiz up 

the Parmesan. Peel the garlic and finely slice with 

the basil stalks, then fry in a large frying pan on a 

medium heat with a splash of olive oil and oregano 

until lightly golden. Pour in the wine, bring to a boil, 

and cook away, then squash in the tomatoes and 

add 1 can’s worth of water. Bring back to a boil, then 

simmer for 20 minutes. Wipe the eggplant slices 

with paper towels and fry them in a little olive oil in 

batches in a large frying pan on a high heat for a few 

minutes on each side, or until golden. 

Cover the base of a roasting pan (10 x 14 inches) 

with one-third of the eggplants, top with onethird 

each of the tomato sauce, basil leaves, bread 

crumbs, and Parmesan, then tear over a ball of 

mozzarella. Repeat twice, then drizzle with a little 

olive oil. Once the focaccia has doubled in size, very 

gently place it in the middle of the oven. Place the 

parmigiana at the bottom of the oven and cook 

both for 40 minutes, or until the focaccia is lightly 

golden and cooked through and the parmigiana 

is bubbling. When you remove the focaccia and 

parmigiana from the oven, drizzle the focaccia all 

over with at least another 4 tablespoons of olive oil 

and (this is important) leave the parmigiana to rest 

for 30 minutes. Divide them both up into portions 

and stuff the sandwiches, adding some lemondressed 

arugula. It’s messy, but awesome.


books 

Gift Ideas For Fiction-loving Foodies 

A selection of novels about chefs, food, 

restaurants, kitchens and cookbooks 

by DARIN COOK 

Most foodies are familiar with 

Anthony Bourdain’s irreverent 

look at the world of chefs from a 

nonfiction point of view, but they 

may not know he has also written a handful 

of novels with chefs as the protagonists. Bone 

in the Throat (1995) is one of three such 

works of fiction and, as with all of his novels, 

relies as much on criminality and corruption 

as it does cooking. Bourdain tends to have 

mobsters, wise guys, loan sharks, con men, 

and murderers mingling with waiters, chefs, 

bartenders, busboys, and dishwashers in the 

restaurant world. 

This story is about Chef Tommy following 

his culinary dreams in an attempt to 

escape from his binding family tree rooted 

in organized crime. Harvey, the owner 

of the restaurant where Tommy cooks, 

struggles to keep his business afloat in the 

competitive New York restaurant scene, but 

it doesn’t help that gangsters are continually 

surrounding him, to be paid at any cost. 

Amid the dark and 

macabre storyline, 

Bourdain never fails 

to describe in great 

detail the activity in 

a restaurant kitchen, 

because it is what he 

knows best. Having 

been in the thick of it 

himself, his words paint 

pictures of an active 

restaurant, as when 

describing Tommy de-boning and filleting a 

salmon before making a fish stock — it’s not 

integral to the plot, but an important portrait 

of what the character does on a regular basis 

to make him who he is. 

In The Cookbook Collector (2010), author 

Allegra Goodman introduces us to two 

sisters, Jess and Emily, surrounded by a cast 

of assorted characters caught up in some 

way in the newfound wealth in Silicon Valley 

during the Internet technology revolution. 

Unlike her sister, Jess is not attached directly 

to dot-com companies, but rather works in 

an antiquarian bookstore for George, who 

has been asked by elderly Sandra to appraise 

a cookbook collection for possible purchase. 

Crammed into the cabinets of her kitchen, 

Sandra has 837 volumes of valuable, leatherbound 

cookbooks in various languages. 

During the appraisal process, George and 

Jess come across handwritten notes, menus, 

clippings, poetry, and sketches in the pages 

of the cookbooks. George is interested in 

the collection for its aesthetic and historical 

value and intends to display them as a 

collection in a museum-like manner. Jess 

is charged with cataloguing the books; as 

she delves into her new job, she yearns to 

learn more about the 

original owner, who is 

not Sandra after all, as 

the layers of collectors 

attached to these 

cookbooks grows. 

There is a lot more to 

this story than perusing 

cookbooks, and the 

characters are peppered 

with a plethora of 

the complexities


and hardships that life can inflict. As Jess 

deals with personal tragedies and rocky 

relationships, the story behind the cookbooks 

leads her to a life she would never have 

predicted, and their antique recipes come in 

useful for a very special occasion. 

All things Chinese, including culinary traditions, 

are revealed through the eyes of Lindsey 

Owyang in The Dim Sum of All Things (2004) 

by Kim Wong Keltner. Raised in San Francisco, 

Lindsey generally scorns her ethnic heritage, 

but can’t get away from it at home, where 

her grandmother keeps recipes and customs 

from her homeland alive. Lindsey is also a 

closet meat-eater working as a receptionist 

for a vegan magazine, and we have to wonder 

where this incongruity will lead her. 

The plot mostly 

revolves around Lindsey’s 

obsession with a 

romantic interest in her 

office, and even though 

Chinese food is not 

pivotal to the story, it is 

always present as a main 

player, such as in Chinatown 

restaurants and lavish 

banquets with shark 

fin soup and Peking duck 

prepared in traditional Chinese style. 

The narrative of the story naturally reveals 

such Chinese eating customs as serving 

others first before taking food yourself. We 

learn about the traditional dishes of Chinese 

holidays, like neen-goh prepared specially 

for Chinese New Year, and mooncakes 

served during the autumn equinox. But even 

with Chinese culinary customs prevalent in 

her American household, Lindsey has her 

eyes opened further when she visits China 

with her grandmother. It is here that she 

learns that China is nothing like the pavilion 

at Disney World, and every meal was unlike 

Chinese food she had back home, except 

for some of those authentic dishes her 

grandmother recreated in their home. 

Many important discussions occur at a 

dinner table while communing over food, 

but as Dutch author Herman Koch reveals in 

The Dinner (2013), they are not always lighthearted 

and good-natured. Amid the hubbub 

of a fashionable restaurant in Amsterdam, 

Koch sets the stage for a horrific tragedy that 

links two couples. The tension between the 


diners is palpable, but the reason for their 

meeting remains buried beneath polite 

dialogue and the perusing of menus. 

From appetizers to main course, the suspense 

builds during the 

progression of dinner, 

until dark secrets are 

revealed and the truth 

comes out during dessert. 

Between the delivery 

of meals and drinks, 

serious topics, family 

issues, and societal 

problems are discussed 

and chilling revelations 

that the couples share 

from their past are disclosed. The story is a 

thrilling page-turner, set amongst the normal 

but frenetic activity of a restaurant service. 

What starts out as an ordinary meal between 

friends evolves into a riveting and disturbing 

discovery wedged between the bookends of 

the aperitif and digestif. 

My Year of Meats (1998) by Ruth Ozeki introduces 

us to Jane Takagi-Little, a controversial 

documentarian working on an unusual project 

with a Japanese television station. Travelling 

across the United States, Jane shoots episodes 

of My American Wife which features a series of 

women preparing home-cooked meals, allowing 

Japanese audiences to witness “traditional 

family values symbolized by red meat in rural 

America.” The story is told through the eyes of 

two main women — Jane the filmmaker, and 

Akiko, a Japanese wife who dutifully watches 

the show and makes 

the recipes in her own 

kitchen. 

The meat company 

sponsoring the show 

continually reminds 

Jane that “Meat is the 

Message” so that rump 

roasts, briskets, baby 

back ribs, and T-bone 

steaks are front and 

centre for Japanese housewives to see on 

their screen. There is a dichotomy to this 

message, however; Akiko is told to make the 

red meat dishes from My American Wife to 

feel healthier and provide the nutrients to 

help along her attempts at pregnancy, but as 

a documentarian Jane discovers that some 

American feedlots and slaughterhouses don’t 

always follow the rules.


The novel itself is a pseudo-documentary, 

disguised as fiction, full of social, 

environ men tal, medical, and personal issues 

that go far beyond cooking meat. Jane pushes 

the boundaries of her documentarian licence, 

but the meat company paying her bills has 

plenty to say about her indiscretions in trying 

to effect social change, rather than adhering 

to the mandate of advertising the cuts of meat 

on American dinner tables. 

Set on the island of Sicily, La Cucina (2000) 

by Lily Prior tells the story of Rosa Fiores 

living on her family farm in a time when 

siestas were taken to break up the day 

and pasta was made by hand in a way that 

sounds more like a leisurely pastime than 

kitchen drudgery. Rosa says “La cucina … 

has formed the backdrop to the lives of our 

family, the Fiores, as far back as, and further 

than, anyone can remember. This kitchen 

has witnessed our joys, griefs, births, deaths, 

nuptials, and fornications for hundreds of 

years.” An ancient, oak 

table is as central to the 

kitchen as the kitchen is 

to the house. This is the 

table on which Rosa was 

born when her mother 

started labour while 

making pasta one day. 

After the untimely, 

Mafia-related death of 

her first love, Rosa exiles 

herself to the kitchen 

to deal with lost love in what she calls her 

“culinary catharsis.” She finds solace in the 

kitchen by dabbling in endless food-making 

projects from the bounty of the farm — 

cheese making, pasta rolling, bread baking, 

vegetable pickling, fruit preserving, and 

livestock slaughter. 

After many years, a mysterious 

Englishman who is researching ancient 

Sicilian cookbooks appears at the library 

where she works and a budding romance 

relieves her of years of grief. After years of 

mourning, and plenty of hard work in the 

kitchen to please others with outstanding 

Italian food, Rosa finds out that some 

dreams do come true and redemption can 

be achieved. 

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and plays in 

Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and well-fed by 

visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London. 

Destination for the food lover 

Enjoy your holiday season 

around the table. 

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BEER MATTERS 

theatre 

On The Boards 

Holiday Theatre Offerings 

By RICK YOUNG 

This is my first On the Boards 

column for eatdrink magazine. 

I will be writing about all things 

related to the myriad of regional 

professional and amateur theatre companies 

in the London area. 

Some of you may know me as Richard 

Young, the former publisher/managing editor 

of The Beat Magazine, an independent print 

and online arts publication that covered the 

local arts scene from 2009 until 2014. I am a 

retired secondary school History and English 

teacher, professional musician, freelance 

writer — and avid theatre patron. 

A smorgasbord of theatre ... 

As the holiday season approaches, there is 

a smorgasbord of regional theatre offerings, 

with something for everyone and every age. 

So let’s take a look at what’s on the boards. 

The Grand Theatre 

(www.grandtheatre.com), 

offers up Shrek the Musical 

on its main stage from 

November 19–December 

28. Sure to please parents 

and children alike, the production 

is based on the highly popular 

2001 animated feature film. Downstairs in 

the more intimate McManus Theatre, the 

Western Department of English presents Dr. 

Faustus, November 5–8 while Mark Kileen’s 

By The Book Theatre presents A Few Good 

Men November 25–December 6, 

a courtroom drama made famous 

by actor Jack Nicholson’s infamous 

line, “You can’t handle the truth” in 

the 1992 movie. 

In the heart of the Old East Village 

Entertainment District, the 

Palace Theatre (www.palacetheatre. 

ca) offers up the classic Broadway 

musical Mame, directed by John Gerry and 

starring Deborah Mitchell in the lead role, 

December 4–14. Gerry promises a leaner, 

Before I begin with my preview of holiday 

theatre offerings, I want to acknowledge the 

fine work of my eatdrink predecessor, Donald 

D’Haene, in covering the local theatre scene 

and for all of the selfless contributions he has 

made to raising public awareness of the efforts 

of local thespians in The Beat 

Magazine, his website DISHing 

with Donald and through The Beat 

DISH Awards which he staged for 

4 years. His columns and reviews 

were always entertaining and 

enlightening — and a tad irreverent, as only 

Donald can be. Thanks Donald! 

pared down interpretation of the musical 

which will feature two baby grand pianos 

on the stage. In the smaller Procunier Hall, 

Donald D’Haene and Dave Semple present 

the two-man show Hosanna, Michel 

Tremblay’s raw depiction 

of love between a 

transsexual drag queen 

and a homosexual biker 

November 6–15. 

“The love story makes the story 

universal,” says Donald D’Haene, who 

plays the drag queen. “Tremblay depicts characters 

we rarely see on the London stage.” 

D’Haene is thrilled to be back on stage. 

“Besides being the role and challenge of a 

lifetime, when you’re ‘dancing’ on stage with 

an actor as brave, open and honest 

as Dave Semple, it certainly raises 

your game. Dancing with someone 

you trust makes the process 

indescribable.” 

The ARTS Project (www.artsproject.ca) 

presents Jayson McDonald’s 

detective fantasy The City That 

Eats You, featuring Meghan Brown 

and Valerie Cotic, November 5–8, while Neil 

Simon’s Fools is brought to the stage by The 

King’s Players November 27–29.

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am 


London’s Original Kids Theatre Company 

(originalkids.ca) offers up several productions 

including Crazytown November 7-9; Disney’s 

Winnie the Pooh for Kids November 13 to 16; 

Bye Birdie Young Performer’s Edition November 

20-23; Shout The Mod Musical November 

27-30; The Wedding Singer December 4-7; The 

King & I December 12-21; capped off by the 

perennial family favourite A Charlie Brown 

Christmas December 13 and 14. Tickets for 

OKTC productions tend to sell out quickly, so 

get yours early to avoid disappointment. 

Moving outside of London, we drop in on 

the Elgin Theatre Guild (www.elgintheatreguild.ca) 

which is presenting James Barry’s 

Snow White and The 7 Dwarfs done up in 

British pantomime or panto style December 

4–14. For the uninitiated, panto is a participatory 

style of musical comedy designed 

specifically for family entertainment and 

usually performed during the Christmas 

season. Audience members are encouraged 

to sing along and to shout out responses to 

the performers. Perfect fare for families this 

holiday season. 

Stratford’s Alternative Theatre Works’ 

(alternativetheatreworks.com) holiday 

season production is A Wind in the Willows 

Christmas 

which runs 

December 

18–30 at the 

Stratford Masonic Concert Hall. 

Theatre Woodstock (www.theatrewoodstock.com) 

brings Rogers & Hammerstein’s 

South Pacific with its legendary score featuring 

songs like “Some Enchanted Evening,” 

“I’m Gonna Wash That Man Right Outa My 

Hair” and others to The Market Centre Theatre 

November 27–30 and December 3–6. 

Over in Theatre Tillsonburg’s Otter Valley 

Playhouse (www.theatretillsonburg.com), 

theatre-goers can catch the British farce 

Sex Please, We’re Sixty, November 6–9 and 

November 13–16. 

In a nutshell, there is a rich selection of 

live theatre on the boards in our area this 

holiday season, and much of it is family fare. 

Get out and support your local artists! 

RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local, 

regional and national print and online publications, was the 

Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine, 

an independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to 2014.


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BEER MATTERS 

music 

Sound Bites 

Seasonal Treats 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

November is a busy month at 

Western University’s Don 

Wright Faculty of Music. The 

faculty’s Symphony Orchestra 

takes to the stage of the Paul Davenport 

Theatre, November 13 and 14, with an 

ambitious program that includes Richard 

Strauss’ symphonic poem, Death and 

Transfiguration. “It’s very beautiful music 

about the last moments of somebody’s life,” 

says conductor Alain Trudel. 

The concert also showcases the talents of 

two young concerto contest winners, with 

pianist Natalia Skomorokhova performing 

the first movement of Beethoven’s 

“Emperor” Piano Concerto No. 5, and 

saxophonist Mathew Henry playing Jacques 

Ibert’s Concertino da Camera. 

Western Music will present two one-act French operas by 

Maurice Ravel November 21–23 at the university’s Paul 

Davenport Theatre 

Next up is an operatic double-bill, featuring 

Maurice Ravel’s L’heure espagnole (The 

Spanish Hour) and L’enfant et les sortilèges 

(The Child and the Magic), November 21 

to 23. Both one-act operas are directed 

by Michael Cavanagh, and performed by 

students in the faculty’s prestigious voice 

program. First performed in 1911, L’heure 

espagnole is a musical comedy set in a clockmaker’s 

workshop in Toledo, Spain. L’enfant 

et les sortilèges had its debut in Monte 

Carlo in 1925, although Ravel began writing 

the score in 1917. The plot unfolds like an 

early 20th-century “Toy Story” as playroom 

objects come to life 

and teach a mischievous 

boy a lesson 

he won’t soon 

forget. 

“The music 

is outrageously 

difficult for the orchestra and 

the singers,” says Trudel. “The students are 

very courageous.” www.music.uwo.ca 

Handel’s Messiah is the gift that keeps on giving. 

Despite being debuted in April, it is now 

a Christmas tradition and most performances 

play to a packed house, bringing good cheer to 

the audience as well as the box office. 

This season, Orchestra London gives 

the popular oratorio the Tafelmusik-touch 

under the baton of Ivars Taurins, 

December 3 at St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

The orchestra also serves up some 

lighter holiday fare at Centennial Hall, 

with a “Christmas Pops” concert for the 

whole family (December 7) and “A Very 

Elvis Christmas” (December 12 and 13) 

featuring award-winning Elvis tribute 

artist, Stephen Kabakos. 

www.orchestralondon.ca 

Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol is 

another staple of the season. This year, 

two productions give the Victorian classic a 

decidedly musical twist. 

More than one thousand people are 

expected to deck Centennial Hall on 

December 10 for the Unity Project’s 7th 

annual Christmas Carol fundraiser. The 

pay-what-you-can event features dramatic 

readings by prominent London lawyers, 

with musical accompaniment provided by 

Orchestra London, The London Singers and 

H.B. Beal Singers. 

“Our production of A Christmas Carol carries 

on Charles Dickens’ own tradition,” notes 

Sylvia Langer, development manager of the

Celebrate the Holidays 

A NUTCRACKER CHRISTMAS 

Nov. 29 / 7:30 pm 

Amabile Choirs join the orchestra for Festive 

classics: The Nutcracker by Tchaikovsky and 

Hansel und Gretal by Humperdinck. 

HANDEL’S MESSIAH 

Dec. 3 / 7:30 pm 

Ivars Taurins conducts the ever-popular 

Orchestra London tradition featuring the 

London Pro Musica choir. 

FAMILY CHRISTMAS 

POPS 

Dec. 7 / 2:30 pm 

Bring the whole family and join Brian 

Jackson for our seasonal favourite. 

A VERY ELVIS 

CHRISTMAS 

Dec. 12 & 13 / 8:00 pm 

Elvis Impersonator Stephen Kabakos’ 

remarkably authentic performance will 

create an unforgettable holiday journey. 

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY! orchestralondon.ca 519-679-8778


John D. Huston will perform 

his acclaimed one-man performance 

of A Christmas Carol on 

December 21 at Aeolian Hall 

Unity Project for 

Relief of Homelessness 

in 

London. Langer 

explains that 

Dickens presented 

dramatic 

readings of his 

popular ghost 

story, donating 

all proceeds 

to local charities 

for the 

poor. www. 

unityproject.ca 

Those looking 

for a more 

intimate Dickens 

experience 

may be interested 

in John 

D. Huston’s acclaimed one-man performance 

of A Christmas Carol, December 21 at Aeolian 

Hall. The afternoon show will feature the 

sounds of London’s 20-member Wassail Choir 

singing Dickensian carols in period costume. 


“It’s always a treat for me to perform in an 

appropriately Victorian environment, and the 

1882 built Aeolian Hall really fits the bill,” says 

Huston on his website. “The hall’s renowned 

acoustics should make this the intimate 

theatrical experience that Dickens strove to 

bring his audiences.” www.aeolianhall.ca 

Tenor Ross Mortimer, mezzo-soprano 

Amanda Perrera and collaborative pianist 

Denis Jung return to the Aeolian stage for 

their second annual Carols by Candlelight, 

December 18. 

“After last year’s sold out evening, we 

hope to once again share our joy and fill 

the audience with the holiday spirit,” says 

Mortimer. The trio will perform everything 

from popular Christmas carols to wellknown 

Gospel selections, with a bit of opera 

thrown in for good measure. 

“There are such deep-rooted traditions 

and emotions that come with each 

Christmas song. It’s amazing when people 

come up to you after a concert and share 

their unique experiences of the music we 

just performed,” Mortimer says. 

Book now 

for Your 

Holiday 

and 

Christmas 

Party! 

Gift Cards Available 

for the Perfect 

Holiday Gift! 

519-601-7252 

428 Clarence Street, London 

www.rajafinedining.ca


A portion of the evening’s proceeds will 

support The Unity Project for Relief of Homelessness 

in London. www.aeolianhall.ca 

The New Year kicks off January 10 at Wolf 

Performance Hall with a chamber music 

concert featuring six well-known London 

musicians — Ian Franklin, oboe, Mary Beth 

Brown, violin, Sharon Wei, viola, Jeremy 

Hake, cello, Josh Grunmann, piano, and Ron 

George, French horn. 

The concert is the brainchild of Renée 

Silberman, director of Serenata Music. “I 

always like to support and promote local 

talent,” she says. 

Mozart’s Quartet for Oboe and Strings 

is likely the most familiar musical territory 

covered by the diverse group, who will perform 

in various combinations. “The idea is to bring 

very colourful music out of the mothballs,” 

says Silberman. www.serenatamusic.com 

NICOLE LAIDLER is a musician-turned-writer and the 

owner of Spilled Ink Writing & Wordsmithing. Visit her at 

spilledink.ca 

SWEET 

DREAMS 

ARE 

MADE 

OF 

THIS 

START CREATING 

A LIFETIME OF 

MEMORIES WITH 

LE CREUSET THIS 

HOLIDAY SEASON 

Mon–Wed & Fri–Sat: 10–5:30 | Thu: 10–6:30 | Sun: Noon–5 

551 Richmond Street, London 

519-850-5477 ○ www.kissthecookonline.com 

Welcome to a TASTE 

of Downtown London! 

Our dining guide gives you a delicious roadmap to the many 

restaurants that call London’s downtown their home. 

Whether you are looking for a farm-to-table meal featuring 

the best of local food and beverage choices, or a quick bite 

on the go, you can find it in our new dining guide. 

Visit our office at 123 King Street to pick up your copy. 

You will find more listings for our restaurants online at 

www.downtownlondon.ca. 

123 King Street 

519.663.2002 

www.downtownlondon.ca 

@Downtown_London DowntownLondon



the lighter side 

The Not So Family Christmas 

By DAVID CHAPMAN 

Let me say right away that I had a 

wonderful childhood. I loved my 

parents and sisters (most of the 

time) and apart from the incident 

with the shoe polish, have a lot of great 

memories. That incident occurred one year 

around Christmas. We, as a family, were 

getting ready to go to the pantomime 

— a great British tradition 

of theatre mixed with 

slapstick. The male 

actors would dress as 

females and vice versa. 

There would be much 

silliness, as only the British 

can do. This particular 

production was Dick Whittington, 

a perennial favourite at Christmas. 

Of course, we all had to wear our 

best outfits and polish our shoes. This 

was where the problem arose. While 

polishing my shoes I got some on the soles! 

I proceeded to walk all through the house, 

leaving in my wake a trail of black shoe 

polish. My mother was not impressed and 

I received what is commonly called a thick 

ear. The shoes did look great though. 

Another great Christmas memory 

involves my first working one. To many 

people, being obliged to work nights and 

holidays is something negative. But I 

thought: This means I am an adult, a man 

of the world! (a very small one mind you). 

Somehow it was exciting to be finishing 

work at 9 p.m., when everyone else was 

probably in bed. (Lisburn was a pretty 

boring town). So the thought of working 

Christmas was appealing. 

I still have the menu from that 

Christmas Day in 1965. For the 

grand sum of 27 shillings and 

sixpence one would enjoy a 

four-course dinner, with all 

the trimmings (to save you 

having to google what the 

heck 27/6 is, it would be 

about four dollars). There 

was consommé, roast 

turkey with gammon (you 

can google that), chestnut 

stuffing, and of course, 

Christmas pudding. The 

menu was signed by the 

chef with a personal note thanking me 

for my good work. At least I thought it was 

personal, until I found out that everyone 

got the same acknowledgement. 

The nicest part of working that 

Christmas, though, was that I could open 

presents when I got home, and all the 

relatives had left. 

DAVID CHAPMAN has been a creative and respected 

fixture on the London restaurant scene for over 20 years. He is 

the proprietor of David’s Bistro. (www.davidsbistro.ca) 

London’s Celebration Destination 

31 

New Wine List! 

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Delicious gift ideas 

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Select from over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics. 

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462 Cheapside Street (@ Maitland) | London | 519-433-4444 

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SAMPLING OF THE FINEST CUISINE, 

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January 15-17, 2015 

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Eatdrink #50 November/December 2014

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