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Eatdrink #50 November/December 2014

A LOCAL food & drink magazines serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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Serving<br />

eatdrinkFREE<br />

London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario<br />

№ 50 • <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE<br />

Tableside at<br />

Michael’s<br />

On The Thames<br />

A Classic Celebration Destination<br />

Special for the<br />

Holidays<br />

Our Annual<br />

Epicurean<br />

Gift Guide<br />

& More!<br />

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music<br />

FEATURING<br />

Chocolate Barr’s<br />

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

Old East Village<br />

Food for Thought<br />

The London Wine & Food Show<br />

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better<br />

ALSO: Christmas in Bayfield | SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy


Savouring the magic<br />

of STRATFORD<br />

Come enjoy Stratford’s heritage district wrapped in fresh cedar boughs<br />

and sparking lights as you wander the Victorian Christmas Trail<br />

collecting stocking stuffers along the way.<br />

Take an international gastronomic journey at dinner with the Stratford<br />

Chefs School students. Celebrate the upcoming season with gourmet<br />

ideas for the holidays and special tastings from our popular Tea and<br />

Chocolate to Blue Cheese and Port or a “Griswald” Supper Club dinner.<br />

And lots of Christmas family cheer - from a Christmas family tradition,<br />

A Wind in the Willows Christmas to holiday arts and crafts shows.<br />

Renew your holiday spirit on horse-drawn carriage rides and strolling<br />

the Chocolate Trail.<br />

NOVEMBER<br />

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners at The Prune<br />

15-16 Rotary Arts and Crafts Show<br />

22 Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting, The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop<br />

29-30 Heritage Downtown Christmas Open House<br />

DECEMBER<br />

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners at The Prune<br />

6 Community Messiah, St. Joseph’s Church<br />

13 Savour Stratford Tea and Chocolate Tasting<br />

17-30 A Wind in the Willows Christmas, Masonic Hall<br />

For all our holiday events visitstratford.ca/christmas


Book Your Festive Holiday Lunch or Dinner!<br />

Spa Open House<br />

<strong>November</strong> 18, 5–8PM<br />

Gorgeously Renovated Bedrooms,<br />

Drawing Rooms & Meeting Spaces<br />

NEW FALL MENU<br />

In-House Spa, Offering Pedicures,<br />

Manicures, Facials & Body Treatments<br />

Restaurant Open 7 Days a Week for Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Brunch<br />

Executive Chef Trevor Stephens<br />

Toll Free 1-855-432-5554<br />

www.idlewyldinn.com<br />

LONDON’S PREMIER HISTORIC INN, NEWLY RESTORED


Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario<br />

•<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

A Classic Celebration Destination<br />

Special for the<br />

Holidays<br />

Our Annual<br />

Epicurean<br />

Gift Guide<br />

& More!<br />

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music<br />

ALSO:<br />

FREE<br />

FEATURING<br />

Chocolate Barr’s<br />

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

Old East Village<br />

Food for Thought<br />

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better<br />

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario<br />

•<br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

THE HOLIDAY I SUE<br />

On The Thames<br />

A Classic Celebration Destination<br />

Special for the<br />

Holidays<br />

Our Annual<br />

Epicurean<br />

Gift Guide<br />

& More!<br />

Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music<br />

ALSO:<br />

FREE<br />

FEATURING<br />

Chocolate Barr’s<br />

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

Old East Village<br />

Food for Thought<br />

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better<br />

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy<br />

eatdrink<br />

<br />

inc.<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Think Global.<br />

Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com<br />

Copy Editor<br />

Social Media Editor<br />

Advertising Sales<br />

Finances<br />

Graphics<br />

Writers<br />

Photographers<br />

Kym Wolfe<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Jane Antoniak, David Chapman, Darin Cook,<br />

Dave Hammond, David Hicks, Antony John,<br />

Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery, Tracy Turlin,<br />

Claudia Viani, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden,<br />

Rick Young<br />

Steve Grimes, Bruce Fyfe<br />

Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349<br />

Mailing Address<br />

Website<br />

Printing<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

City Media<br />

M&T Printing Group, London ON<br />

© <strong>2014</strong> eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink<br />

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues<br />

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink<br />

or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily<br />

represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions<br />

but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

eatdrink<br />

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE<br />

Tableside at<br />

Michael’s<br />

On The Thames<br />

eatdrink<br />

Tableside at<br />

Michael’s<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Read every issue online,<br />

no matter which device you prefer.<br />

Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues<br />

Plus!<br />

New Stories Only Online<br />

Plus!<br />

OUR COVER<br />

Michael’s On The Thames’ Sommelier/<br />

Captain Andrew Fratepietro shows great<br />

showmanship flambéing tableside.<br />

Photograph by Steve Grimes<br />

(www.grimesphoto.com)


Celebrating<br />

46years<br />

in the printing industry<br />

www.mtprint.com


contents ISSUE № 50<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER <strong>2014</strong><br />

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE<br />

8 Food for Thought, in Old East Village<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

8<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

20<br />

12 Tableside at Michael’s On The Thames<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

12<br />

CULINARY RETAIL<br />

15 Chocolate Barr’s Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

By DAVID HICKS<br />

20 The eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide<br />

ROAD TRIPS<br />

24 Christmas in Bayfield<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

28<br />

SPOTLIGHT<br />

28 The SmartAPP Stands Out<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

15<br />

FARMERS & ARTISANS<br />

41 The Food Web: Part 4 — Autumn to Winter<br />

By ANTONY JOHN<br />

NEW & NOTABLE<br />

32 The BUZZ<br />

TRAVEL<br />

43 Get Deliciously Lost in Italy<br />

24<br />

By CLAUDIA VIANII<br />

IN THE GARDEN<br />

47 Decorating Outside In<br />

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN<br />

WINE<br />

49 The 2015 London Wine & Food Show<br />

By CECILIA BUY<br />

47<br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

52 What to Give the Discerning Foamhead<br />

By THE MALT MONK<br />

COOKBOOKS<br />

55 Jamie’s Comfort Food by Jamie Oliver<br />

55<br />

Review by TRACY TURLIN<br />

BOOKS<br />

59 Book Ideas for Fiction-loving Foodies<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

59<br />

62<br />

BASED ON THE DREAMWORKS ANIMATION<br />

MOTION PICTURE AND THE BOOK BY WILLIAM STEIG<br />

Book and Lyrics by David Lindsay-Abaire. Music by Jeanine Tesori.<br />

THEATRE<br />

62 On the Boards: Holiday Theatre Offerings<br />

By RICK YOUNG<br />

MUSIC<br />

66 Sound Bites: Seasonal Treats<br />

By NICOLE LAIDLER<br />

THE LIGHTER SIDE<br />

70 The Not So Family Christmas<br />

By DAVID CHAPMAN<br />

THE BUZZ<br />

70<br />

32<br />

52


SARNIA<br />

& POINT<br />

EDWARD<br />

LAMBTON<br />

SHORES<br />

ST.CLAIR<br />

RIVER<br />

DISTRICT<br />

CENTRAL<br />

LAMBTON<br />

navigate<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 7<br />

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in<br />

LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH OUR<br />

VACATION PLAYGROUND!<br />

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CELEBRATE<br />

holidays<br />

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with US!<br />

call or click for your<br />

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also available at southwestern ontario visitor centres<br />

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tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink


8 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

food writer at large<br />

Food for Thought<br />

in the Old East Village<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

There is an on-going surge of<br />

redevelopment that has gradually<br />

strengthened the vitality of the Old<br />

East Village (OEV) neighbourhood.<br />

It’s not exactly classic gentrification —<br />

instead, it’s a more inclusive grass-roots<br />

kind of rebirth, one that reflects and<br />

accommodates the diversity of the OEV’s<br />

residents and business owners while<br />

encouraging community engagement.<br />

The Old East Village Business Improvement<br />

Area (OEVBIA) is a community-driven<br />

urban reinvestment and revitalization initiative<br />

working in partnership with the Old East<br />

Village Community Association (OEVCA) and<br />

a variety of community partners to help stimulate<br />

neighbourhood stability and encourage a<br />

blending of viable commercial activities along<br />

and off the Dundas Street corridor.<br />

According to Dr. Jason Gilliland (HEAL<br />

& Department of Geography at Western<br />

and OEVIA executive board member) “The<br />

OEVBIA and its advisors have been working<br />

on an economic development to strengthen<br />

the area as a food district.”<br />

To the uninitiated, the OEV has a longstanding<br />

reputation as a destination for<br />

community, health and social service<br />

Unique Food Attitudes<br />

The Root Cellar Organic Café<br />

agencies. The area has also become the<br />

undisputed centre of all things counterculture<br />

and the centre of the city’s edgy<br />

art and music scene, as well as a growing<br />

restaurant cluster on the corridor. Sarah<br />

Merritt, manager of the OEVBIA, observes<br />

“The spacing of the food businesses and<br />

restaurants on Dundas Street is creating a<br />

very walkable food district”.<br />

The neighbourhood contains 28% of the<br />

city’s listed and designated heritage properties<br />

as well as some key city venues. Dundas Street<br />

is home to the London Clay Arts Centre,<br />

the Palace Theatre, the Aeolian Performing<br />

Arts Centre and the Western Fair Farmers’ &<br />

Artisans’ Market (WFFAM).<br />

A revival of culinary entrepreneurs and<br />

food enthusiasts has gravitated to the OEV<br />

and has added to the mix of established<br />

culinary businesses like Mykonos, Tony’s of<br />

London, Vietnam Restaurant and True Taco<br />

Authentic Comedor Latino.<br />

Creative, independent, and cultishly<br />

popular restaurants and cafés like The Root<br />

Cellar, Unique Food Attitudes, Momo’s at<br />

the Market, Ten Up Chinese and Sushi,<br />

The Starving Artist Bistro, Asmara Caffee<br />

and East Village Coffeehouse have added<br />

another level of diversity and accessibility<br />

to the cultural fabric and the evolving<br />

restaurant/café scene in the neighbourhood.<br />

A business like The Wisdom Tea Shop is


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 9<br />

an example of OEV landlords taking the<br />

ultimate plunge by opening their own small<br />

businesses in their own buildings.<br />

The WFFAM continues to serve as an<br />

anchor for the village by providing a setting for<br />

enhanced culinary programming, and cultural<br />

and civic activities that complement the<br />

market and its location in a neighbourhood<br />

previously identified as a food desert.<br />

The market itself has a plethora of more<br />

than sixty small-scale food makers that<br />

include Saucy Meats, which brings together<br />

small-scale farmers, butchers and customers<br />

through a unique artisanal business model;<br />

Café Bourgeois chef/caterer Mary Ann Wrona,<br />

whose healthy catering and gourmet-to-go<br />

café form a repertoire of the Polish culinary<br />

tradition; and Downie Street Bakehouse,<br />

which features from-scratch, hand-shaped,<br />

artisanal and specialty breads made with time<br />

and care by baker Alan Mailloux.<br />

Visionary culinary entrepreneur and<br />

WFFAM owner Dave Cook says, “Market<br />

management supports smaller-scale<br />

producers and farmers in an economic<br />

environment that’s challenging for anyone<br />

not performing industrial-scale agriculture,<br />

with opportunities for informal mentorship”.<br />

As an informal incubator for emerging<br />

businesses the WFFAM has evolved into<br />

a regional culinary epicentre for smallscale<br />

food makers and farmers, “foodies”<br />

and innovators. Cook, who is at the<br />

vanguard of local culinary innovation, is<br />

looking to open a 20,000 to 25,000 square<br />

foot food production facility in the OEV<br />

to accommodate two to three anchor<br />

tenants (including his Fire Roasted Coffee<br />

All ’Bout Cheese<br />

Momo’s at the Market<br />

Company) and other spillover market<br />

opportunities and interests. Cook estimates<br />

that the current economic impact from the<br />

WFFAM is $7.5 million annually.<br />

Various food businesses have emerged<br />

from the market to open or expand into<br />

retail and wholesale businesses in the<br />

OEV, downtown London or other farmers’<br />

markets. Miki Hambleck’s Hungary Butcher,<br />

Rick Peori’s All ’Bout Cheese, and Theo and<br />

Gerda Korthof’s Artisan Bakery have all set<br />

up shop on Dundas Street across from the<br />

market. On the Move Organics, a premium<br />

market vendor, recently opened a pop-up<br />

retail location on the corridor close to its<br />

progeny, the Root Cellar Organic Café.<br />

The market continues to be home<br />

to an evolving community of culinary<br />

professionals who are actively fostering the<br />

development of a distinctive food district<br />

and encouraging innovation in food and<br />

sustainable strategies for the development<br />

of quality culinary practices. Cook’s many<br />

business interests interlock and promote<br />

one another, and the success of the WFFAM<br />

illustrates the potential economic spin-off of<br />

a food production facility in OEV.<br />

The OEVBIA continues to work on a<br />

local economic development plan for the<br />

neighborhood that involves the creation<br />

of an “agri-food district,” and considers<br />

building stronger linkages between the<br />

farmers’ market and the neighboring<br />

commercial corridor as a central objective.<br />

In the meantime, there continues to be<br />

discussion regarding an eco-food hub and<br />

a possible social enterprise grocery store in<br />

the OEV.<br />

The following page highlights just some of<br />

the interesting dining options found in the<br />

Old East Village:


10 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

The Root Cellar Organic Café<br />

Community-focused, local, sustainable<br />

and accountable are the words used to<br />

describe the Root Cellar’s philosophy. With<br />

an emphasis on “from scratch” seasonal<br />

menus, the culinary team led by chef Dani<br />

Gruden-Murphy procures ingredients from<br />

local organic farmers for this hip artisanal<br />

culinary collective and London’s first<br />

co-operatively owned nanobrewery.<br />

623 Dundas Street, 519-719-7675<br />

True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino<br />

True Taco continues to wow diehard tacolovers<br />

by providing superior<br />

Mexican and El Salvadorian<br />

cuisine in new and much<br />

larger premises. An allday<br />

breakfast of huevos<br />

rancheros (sunny-side up<br />

eggs with homemade sauce<br />

and locally-sourced beans<br />

and tortillas) is a staple.<br />

Tacos and pupusas are<br />

house specialities. Burritos,<br />

tacquitos, quesadillas,<br />

enchiladas and tamales are<br />

also on offer. The standout<br />

is the chicken Milanesa. 789<br />

Dundas Street, 519-433-0909<br />

Unique Food Attitudes<br />

The success of Barbara Czyz’s foodiemobbed<br />

bistro is due to its modern<br />

European cuisine, chalkboard offerings, and<br />

attentive vibe. Specialties include goulash<br />

with potato pancakes, krokiety (crepes) and<br />

red borsch made from beets, slow cooked<br />

cabbage rolls, and tender peirogi with sweet<br />

and savoury fillings. 697 Dundas Street, 519-649-2225<br />

Mykonos<br />

Heidi and Bill Vamvalis are pillars of hospitality,<br />

and have been serving Mediterranean<br />

cuisine and traditional English Fish and<br />

Chips for over 38 years. Mykonos sports a<br />

festive covered patio at the back of the restaurant,<br />

which is heated during the cooler<br />

weather. The Mykonos Platter with moussaka,<br />

pastichio, souvlaki, tsaziki, tiropitaki,<br />

spanakopita, loukanica and dolmathaki is<br />

outstanding. 572 Adelaide Street N., 519-434-6736<br />

The Spring (You Yi Cun)<br />

An OEV mainstay, The Spring has recently<br />

changed hands. The décor could still use<br />

a rethink. The signature wonton “purses”<br />

— house-made pork dumplings — are<br />

True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino<br />

browned to pan-fried perfection. We love<br />

the sautéed Asian eggplant with chili and<br />

sauce, al dente long green beans bathed in<br />

a fiery sauce, spring rolls and crispy deepfried<br />

wontons. 768 Dundas Street, 519-266-4421<br />

Chi Hi Vietnamese<br />

Chef Trinh’s Chi Hi Vietnamese restaurant<br />

features traditional Vietnamese fare<br />

including bánh mì (black bean tofu or<br />

beef subs), pad Thai, vegetarian Singapore<br />

noodles, beef noodle brisket soup, and black<br />

bean tofu vermicelli. 791 Dundas Street, (beside<br />

Aeolian Hall at Rectory) 519-601-8448<br />

Tony’s of London<br />

Tony’s Famous Italian<br />

has been serving pizza,<br />

panzerotti, lasagna,<br />

chicken parmigiana and<br />

other Italian-inspired<br />

comfort foods in this<br />

cavernous dining room<br />

since 1961. 980 Dundas Street,<br />

519 544 4520<br />

The Vietnam Restaurant<br />

Long Duc Ngo, the<br />

welcoming hands-on<br />

proprietor, offers a selection<br />

of accessibly priced noodle, rice and<br />

soup dishes. The substantive menu includes<br />

superb spring rolls, pho, sizzling hot pots, and<br />

many seafood and chicken dishes. Pho Dac<br />

Biet is the signature rice noodle broth with<br />

rare and brisket beef, beef balls and tripe with<br />

fresh herbs. 1074 Dundas Street, 519-457-0762<br />

Thai Taste<br />

This family-owned unassuming hole-in-thewall,<br />

with cramped booth seating offers superior<br />

Thai food. Served with pride and attention<br />

to detail Thai Taste is an OEV favourite.<br />

Don’t be put off by the narrow interior—the<br />

food shines. 671 Dundas Street, 519-646-2909<br />

Starving Artist Bistro and Lounge<br />

This small open-kitchen bills itself as a café,<br />

breakfast and brunch restaurant. This is<br />

where you’ll find some amazing work from<br />

local artists displayed in the cozy dining area.<br />

Try the First Nation’s bannock tacos if they<br />

are available. 680 Dundas Street, 226-680-0526<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is a contributing editor and eatdrink’s<br />

Food Writer at Large.


Authentic<br />

CULINARY<br />

EXPERIENCES<br />

FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON'S CULINARY CULTURE<br />

IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR<br />

www.londontourism.ca/culinary<br />

TOURISM<br />

tourismlondon<br />

@tourism_london<br />

LONDON<br />

C A N A D A


12 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

restaurants<br />

A Classic Celebration Destination<br />

Tableside Cooking at Michael’s On The Thames, in London<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Photography by STEVE GRIMES<br />

My passion for French cooking<br />

was ignited when I travelled<br />

through France at age 22. A<br />

year later I was asked to run the<br />

kitchen at The Vineyard, one of Toronto’s<br />

first wine bars. In those days, French<br />

cuisine dominated the fine dining scene.<br />

My mentor was a serious gastronome who<br />

informed and educated my palate by wining<br />

and dining me in the most prestigious<br />

fine dining institutions in Toronto. All of<br />

these establishments — Napoléon, Three<br />

Small Rooms, Auberge Gavroche, Fenton’s,<br />

Les Cavaliers and the dining rooms at<br />

the King Edward Hotel and the Westbury<br />

Hotel — were French, and enjoyed august<br />

reputations and discerning clientele. The<br />

same welcoming hospitality, and the same<br />

discreet but impeccable service were<br />

extended to everyone.<br />

Tastes are transitory and altered sensibilities<br />

have brought changes to the cuisine and<br />

classic styles of restaurant service that I<br />

esteemed in my early career. Good value to the<br />

patron does not mean cheap prices. It refers to<br />

the quality and quantity of the food, the level of<br />

service, and the décor and ambience.<br />

To my mind, French food has always<br />

been the cuisine synonymous with refined<br />

Enjoy an intimate atmosphere with<br />

comfortable and private dining areas.<br />

In the Sun Room, Michael’s diners can enjoy a view of<br />

the Thames river and surrounding parkland<br />

taste and, to some extent, it still is. To this<br />

day I appreciate the skill and showmanship<br />

of French-style service. French service is<br />

distinguished by the fact that all or part of<br />

the preparation of the dish, or at least the<br />

finishing of it, is done in the dining room. This<br />

type of service requires a cart or gueridon and<br />

organized mise en place to facilitate cooking<br />

at the side of the patron’s table. Tableside<br />

preparations might involve sautéing or<br />

flambéing an item, or carving it, boning a fish<br />

or composing a salad from scratch.<br />

Classic tableside cooking is part of the<br />

innate charm of Michael’s On The Thames.<br />

The restaurant is at once appealing and<br />

traditional, and yet old-school: Caesar salad<br />

for two, prepared tableside, as well as<br />

flaming dishes, also done tableside<br />

including whole Dover sole meunière,<br />

pepper steak “Dorchester” with<br />

brandy demi-glace, cherries jubilee<br />

and strawberries alla Marco.<br />

If you’re hungry for steak Diane<br />

the dining room staff will create that<br />

at a tableside cart for you too. It is<br />

not a classical French recipe, though<br />

its preparation is at least a cousin to<br />

the French (steak coated in cracked<br />

peppercorns accompanied by a<br />

cognac and butter sauce). It’s all about<br />

elegance, presentation, and personal


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 13<br />

At select times during dinner, a rotating cast of talented pianists<br />

play sophisticated classics and jazz on the baby grand piano<br />

Maria Homolay prepares Caesar salad,<br />

with French-style tableside service<br />

attention. The showmanship starts with a<br />

tender cut of beef tenderloin pounded thin<br />

and pan-fried in butter to your preference.<br />

It then is topped with a rich sauce of more<br />

butter, shallots, and mushrooms, and<br />

flambéed with brandy and a splash of fresh<br />

cream. An intoxicating wine bouquet and<br />

fragrant beef aroma emanates from the pan.<br />

The same goes for the Brome Lake duck à<br />

l’orange, whose boozy sauce will be whisked<br />

and flambéed a few inches from your table.<br />

One evening while dining with my nephew,<br />

service professional Maria Homolay served<br />

us juicy-on-the-inside, seared and roasted<br />

Chateaubriand. The Chateaubriand, which<br />

can be ordered for a table of two, is served in<br />

the traditional manner accompanied<br />

by a variety of vegetables and crowned<br />

with béarnaise sauce. Chateaubriand<br />

and béarnaise sauce have a natural<br />

kinship, with the sauce of clarified<br />

butter emulsified in egg yolks,<br />

white wine vinegar and flavoured<br />

with tarragon playing off the beef<br />

tenderloin. There was naturalness to<br />

the way Homolay moved and worked<br />

— a professionalism that has made<br />

many dining experiences at Michael’s<br />

On The Thames memorable. It offers<br />

classic French flair for diners who<br />

prefer a bit of finesse while dining—<br />

and appreciate a bit of interaction<br />

with their tableside preparation.<br />

For thirty-one years and counting,<br />

Michael’s On The Thames has been<br />

regarded as London’s “celebration<br />

destination,” and for good cause.<br />

Owner-operator Brian Stewart,<br />

executive chef Denis Clavette,<br />

kitchen manager Dave Wyler and their<br />

kitchen brigade consistently give patrons<br />

what they want, and that is why the restaurant<br />

remains popular. There is no attempt to be<br />

trendy or cutting-edge at Michael’s.<br />

Besides tableside cooking, there are prix<br />

fixe menus and many à la carte selections that<br />

mostly stick to tried and true classics. There is<br />

Cobb salad, colossal shrimp stuffed with crab<br />

and wrapped in pancetta and finished with<br />

a Pernod beurre blanc drizzle, baked west<br />

coast halibut with lemon beurre noisette,<br />

and even the Valencian classic, paella. In<br />

Chef’s hands, paella is a fragrant combination<br />

of Metzger’s chorizo, duck confit, mussels,<br />

scallops, shrimp and saffron rice.<br />

Standing, from left: Owner/Founder Brian Stewart and<br />

Sommelier/Captain Andrew Fratepietro. Seated, General<br />

Manager Joelle Lees and Sous Chef Chris Morrisson


14 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

1<br />

2<br />

1 Steamed Mussels<br />

“Meunière”— cultivated<br />

mussels steamed in white<br />

wine, fresh basil, garlic,<br />

and butter.<br />

2 Insalata Alla Caprese<br />

— sliced tomatoes,<br />

Bocconcini cheese, and<br />

basil leaves drizzled with<br />

extra virgin olive oil,<br />

balsamic vinegar, sea salt,<br />

and fresh ground pepper.<br />

3 Rack of lamb roasted with<br />

fresh mint and finished<br />

with demi-glace and port<br />

wine.<br />

4 Jumbo black tiger-eye<br />

shrimp cocktail served<br />

with traditional cocktail<br />

sauce.<br />

4 3<br />

An experienced entrepreneur (Stewart<br />

owned Sam the Record Man franchises), and<br />

inspired by his inveterate restaurant patron<br />

father’s appreciation for fine dining, Stewart<br />

recognized he’d found the ideal location for his<br />

new endeavour the minute he saw the former<br />

tile and cement warehouse which gave way to<br />

Guildwood Lighting in the early 1960s.<br />

The restaurant has an intimate atmosphere<br />

with its private dining areas, an enclosed sun<br />

room beside the Thames River, the sophistication<br />

of a baby grand piano overlooking the<br />

dining room, oak decor, tables with plenty of<br />

elbow room and a stone fireplace. A rotating<br />

cast of pianists that include David Priest and<br />

Dean Harrison play classics and jazz on the<br />

baby grand at select times during dinner.<br />

Until a few years ago, Jack Di Carlo had<br />

been the maître d’ at Michael’s since 1986.<br />

He created a lasting impression on the<br />

clientele, greeting and serenading customers<br />

and cementing the restaurant’s reputation<br />

as a romantic dining destination. It is a<br />

reputation that endures.<br />

General Manager Joelle Lees and certified<br />

sommelier/captain Andrew Fratepietro<br />

are warm and hospitable and, in addition<br />

to applying their skills and charisma as<br />

restaurant professionals, are focused on<br />

creating great dining experiences. Good<br />

service is one of the primary things diners<br />

consider in judging the value of a restaurant.<br />

The service here is a welcome throwback,<br />

countering the prevalent attitude of casual<br />

service that favours over-familiar waiters<br />

and high pressure upselling tactics.<br />

Fratepietro’s wine list is a virtuous<br />

representation of the style and cuisine of the<br />

restaurant and has options for many different<br />

types of wine drinkers, both in terms of price<br />

point and style. There are some excellent<br />

consignment wines on the list.<br />

While many restaurateurs and chefs are<br />

working to comprehend and respond to the<br />

expectations of the food savvy Generation<br />

X and the Millennial Generation, Michael’s<br />

remains an intentional and charming<br />

anachronism while appealing to the<br />

tastes and preferences of its changing<br />

demographic.<br />

Michael’s On The Thames<br />

1 York Street, London • 519-672-0111<br />

www.michaelsonthethames.com<br />

open for lunch weekdays<br />

open for dinner 7 nights a week<br />

BRYAN LAVERY (ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com) is eatdrink’s<br />

Food Writer at Large.<br />

STEVE GRIMES (www.grimesphoto.com) is a regular<br />

contributor of photographs to eatdrink.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 15<br />

culinary retail<br />

Raising the Chocolate Barr<br />

New Digs for Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur<br />

By DAVID HICKS<br />

How can a small<br />

city cope with the<br />

presence of not one<br />

or two, but three,<br />

specialty chocolate shops? It is<br />

a burden the locals seem willing<br />

to embrace. In fact, one of the<br />

faux marketing jokes around<br />

Stratford is, “Come for the plays,<br />

stay for the chocolate.”<br />

All the more reason,<br />

now that Chocolate Barr’s<br />

Candies is settled into their<br />

new downtown location. Last winter,<br />

Derek and Jacqueline Barr bought the<br />

downtown heritage building dating from<br />

1889, originally the residence of a railway<br />

engineer. Renovations began on the former<br />

Sun Room Restaurant in February and they<br />

re-opened in July. “It was a six-year search<br />

[for a building] and a six-month renovation,”<br />

says Derek, “And we wondered if we’d hit<br />

our July opening deadline, but we’re here<br />

and loving it now.”<br />

Moving from their decade-long residency<br />

on Stratford’s busy Ontario Street raised<br />

a few eyebrows in town. “We had a great<br />

landlord, great foot traffic and good<br />

Chocolate Barr’s new location, on George Street<br />

visibility,” says Jacqueline. “But dark tinted<br />

and curtained windows on the sunny side<br />

of Ontario St. wasn’t great for displaying<br />

perishable food items,” she says with a smile.<br />

“By buying and building, we could<br />

design and renovate for the store layout<br />

and displays we wanted, with more of an<br />

open kitchen concept so people can see the<br />

way we work. That, and accommodating a<br />

35-foot cooling tunnel.”<br />

Derek & Jacqueline Barr<br />

Jaccqueline Barr, behind the counter


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Chili peppers and fruit are prepared for incorporation<br />

into chocolates and candies<br />

What to choose? The truffle counter offers an array of<br />

choices — standards and weekly specials<br />

Cupcakes, and custom orders — just ask!<br />

Dramatic Timing?<br />

Still, given how Stratford’s retail sector can be<br />

theatre-dependent, it’s forgivable to wonder<br />

about the timing. Hoisting a small vat of<br />

molten caramel with his “lead systems and<br />

production guy,” Matt Gardner, Derek says,<br />

“Actually, we are twice as busy already, and<br />

summer is our slower period because of all the<br />

chocolate holidays [that fall outside summer]:<br />

Thanksgiving, Hallowe’en, Christmas, New<br />

Year’s Eve, St. Valentine’s Day and Easter.”<br />

“We have 80 or 90 regular customers who<br />

come in throughout the year, and because<br />

we are in a direct sightline from the Avon<br />

Theatre and Studio Theatre now, we’re<br />

seeing an influx of new people.”<br />

“Special events like Savour Stratford and<br />

the Stratford Chocolate Trail tourism program<br />

help too.” (And it probably doesn’t hurt<br />

customer traffic that they’re right across the<br />

street from Stratford’s downtown LCBO store.)<br />

The Rheo Grande<br />

Derek was born and raised in Stratford,<br />

and Rheo Thompson, the doyen of mint<br />

chocolate, was a family friend. Derek worked<br />

for him through high school. “I was actually<br />

headed for a career in mining, but then<br />

Bre-X [mining company scandal] happened<br />

and Ontario industry hit hard times. So I<br />

came home and Rheo suggested I work at<br />

the shop again until I figured things out. And<br />

I was there from 1999 to 2003.”<br />

In the meantime, he met Jacqueline. “So<br />

here was a great guy who made chocolate for<br />

a living … What was there to think about?”<br />

When the Barrs went out on their own in<br />

2003, “It was crazy — we were busy right off<br />

the bat,” says Derek.<br />

But how does it work in a town of 30,000<br />

to be one of three chocolate shops, within<br />

two blocks of the venerable Rheo Thompson<br />

Candies and Rocky Mountain Chocolate<br />

Factory? “Stratford just loves its chocolate and<br />

we have a history with handmade chocolate<br />

that goes back to at least the 1950s,” says<br />

Derek, pointing to the century-old marble<br />

cooling table. “Having three specialty shops<br />

in town just makes the town even more of a<br />

destination. Our competition does a great job,<br />

and I think we make each other better.”<br />

You Say “Cocoa,” I Say “Cacao”<br />

“Candy Makers, Chocolate Makers and<br />

Chocolatiers … I guess we do all of them,<br />

including small-batch items where we buy raw<br />

cacao beans, roast and grind them, and use it<br />

in specialty items. We have fresh Bean-to-Barr<br />

single origin chocolate from either Trinidad,<br />

Bolivia or Peru at any given time,” says Derek.<br />

“Our cacao is fair trade and organic, and the<br />

sugar is organic, but we don’t major on those<br />

points,” adds Jacqueline. “Our focus is that our<br />

Bear-to-Barr chocolate is soy-free and while<br />

our facilities don’t allow us to label anything<br />

as such, we do make a range of dairy-free and<br />

sugar-free items available.”<br />

Experimentation and innovation keep the<br />

candy game interesting for the Barrs. Jack’s<br />

Barr (nicknamed for Jacqueline) is among<br />

the most popular, made with 70% chocolate,<br />

toffee, salt and pepper. Or there’s the<br />

Espresso Barr made with espresso coffee …


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Even the packaging gets that extra special touch<br />

no chocolate, just powdered espresso beans,<br />

cream and sugar.<br />

Trifling with Truffles<br />

But the showstopper is Barr’s unique<br />

range of truffles that pushes confectionery<br />

boundaries: Balsamic Vinegar Truffle,<br />

Honey & Black Pepper, Chili Pepper, Scotch<br />

Bonnet, Roasted Garlic, Curry, Molé, Goat’s<br />

Cheese (with cheese from C’est Bon), Ancho<br />

Chili (Antony John’s Soiled Reputation), The<br />

Macallan 12 Year Old Scotch, Jameson Irish<br />

Whiskey, Guinness Stout … and usually a<br />

“New This Week” item.<br />

“We like to do random things to keep it<br />

fun,” says Derek. “Like when a farmer walks<br />

in with five pounds of dried chili peppers.<br />

What are you going to do?”<br />

Barr’s has shipped chocolate as far as<br />

Japan, “but for a local martial arts group I<br />

did series of truffles using Japanese flavours,<br />

including wasabi, soy sauce, green tea, ginger<br />

and plum wine. They turned out great.”<br />

So, any flops? Jacqueline rolls her eyes.<br />

“Yes! Lemon Zest & Thyme Butter Ganache. I<br />

told him it wouldn’t work.”<br />

Derek just shrugs again, with his wellknown<br />

mischievous smile, “If you’re going<br />

to do this seven days a week, you have to try<br />

these things.”<br />

Chocolate Barr’s Candies<br />

55 George St. West, Stratford<br />

519-272-2828<br />

www.chocolatebarrs.com<br />

monday–saturday: 9am–6pm<br />

sunday: 10am–5pm<br />

DAVID HICKS is a Stratford writer and branding consultant<br />

who does not have a chocolate problem. Unless it’s all gone.<br />

For cooking at its finest, we offer steam ovens, true convection ovens, gas and induction cooktops and a microwave/grill combination.<br />

For cooling, we sell the top European brand – Liebherr – featuring everything from built-in refrigerators to temperature-controlled wine<br />

coolers. We even offer a humidity-controlled humidor for indoor leisure and an outdoor refrigerator for the pool/patio area.<br />

For lifestyle appliances that are second to none, make the relaxing drive to Belgrave Ontario. We will demonstrate,<br />

in our live showroom, how you can cook, bake, cool and preserve with some of the most energy-efficient appliances available.<br />

THE EUROPEAN APPLIANCE STORE<br />

Everything an appliance should be<br />

39822 Belgrave Road, Belgrave ON – just North of Blyth www.theeuropeanappliancestore.com 1-877-543-2437


Stratford is<br />

more than<br />

great theatre<br />

— 10 Craft Beers on Tap —<br />

INN | RESTAURANT<br />

Book your Christmas<br />

party with us and stay<br />

overnight in one of our<br />

boutique guest rooms.<br />

Packages start at $99/person<br />

PRIVATE<br />

DINING ROOM<br />

great for staff or family<br />

CHRISTMAS<br />

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CHRISTMAS<br />

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NO room rental fee<br />

BRUNCH • LUNCH • DINNER • EVENTS<br />

104 Ontario Street, Stratford | 519.271.92 02 | www.mercerhall.ca<br />

Get up-to-date info on our series of exciting events! fb.com/mercerhall twitter.com/MHResto


118 Ontario St., Stratford<br />

519-814-9439<br />

themilkywhey.ca<br />

Beautiful made-to-order gift baskets<br />

are available for the foodies on your list!


20 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

culinary retail<br />

The eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide<br />

Suggestions for the Foodies in Your Life<br />

It's that time of year again,<br />

and the "it's better to give<br />

than to receive" mantra<br />

is much easier to embrace<br />

when you are able to avoid the mall and all<br />

of its frantic energy. Instead, find yourself<br />

an independent retailer who has done a lot<br />

of the work of finding original gift ideas for<br />

you. Whether it's a big present for someone<br />

close to your heart, a hostess gift for your<br />

friend who always goes all out to celebrate<br />

the season, or a small<br />

"stocking stuffer" gift<br />

just to put some extra fun into<br />

someone's life, there are plenty of new<br />

and exciting products to choose from this<br />

season. We put the word out that we were<br />

looking for suggestions, and this is what we<br />

came up with!<br />

Once Upon A Tree is committed to using<br />

local and sustainably harvested wood.<br />

Known for their “live edge” serving boards<br />

and exquisite burl bowls, now Once Upon<br />

a Tree has created a beautiful Walnut iPad<br />

Holder exclusively for Jill’s Table. Perfect for<br />

displaying recipes in the kitchen, it is a true<br />

blend of nature and technology. $49.99<br />

Our regular eatdrink cookbook reviewer<br />

Tracy Turlin was thinking along similar lines:<br />

“I spend a lot of time in the kitchen trying<br />

new recipes so I need a way to keep my books<br />

safe and out of the mess,” she wrote. “The Oxo Good Grips<br />

Pop-up Cookbook Holder has a clear screen that protects<br />

the pages and holds the book open at the same time.<br />

The spatter screen pulls down and out of the way to<br />

allow you to turn the pages<br />

easily. The holder folds<br />

flat for easy storage<br />

on your cookbook<br />

shelf or gadget<br />

drawer.” $27.99<br />

“If you prefer to<br />

find your recipes online,<br />

you can still keep them close to you<br />

while you cook with the iPrep Tablet Stand<br />

and Stylus by Prepara. It has a weighted and non-slip<br />

base to securely hold any popular tablet or e-reader. It<br />

adjusts to 4 angles for optimum reading and the stylus<br />

stores in the hinge when not in use. This stand also<br />

folds flat for easy storage.” $29.99


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

The euroSCRUBBY (www.euroscrubby.<br />

com) is an abrasive, non-scratch cleaning<br />

cloth that is safe for almost every surface<br />

including non-stick pots and pans, glass/<br />

ceramic cooktops, glass shower doors and<br />

so much more. The euroSCRUBBY is also<br />

environmentally friendly as it lasts<br />

anywhere between 6<br />

months to 2 years,<br />

depending<br />

upon use,<br />

meaning it<br />

reduces waste<br />

going to landfills from<br />

green scouring pads and many similar<br />

products. $2.99<br />

Carrie Wreford, co-owner of Stratford’s<br />

venerable Bradshaws shop, has her finger<br />

on the pulse of what’s on trend this year, and<br />

surprised us by suggesting a food item. The<br />

King George Christmas Pudding contains<br />

delightful ingredients<br />

such as sultanas,<br />

brown sugar, dried<br />

fig and apricots,<br />

citrus, pear and<br />

holiday spices,<br />

making these<br />

1-pound Canadian-made<br />

Christmas<br />

puddings a<br />

delicious treat for<br />

yourself or to give as a gift.<br />

Just steam and serve, this is the perfect traditional<br />

English holiday dessert. $24.95<br />

Jamie Griffiths, owner of The Pristine Olive in<br />

London, has come up with a charming way to<br />

help customers try his products (over 60 flavours<br />

of oils and balsamics!). He has created<br />

six unique Sample Pack Combinations, containing<br />

many of his most popular items. Each<br />

sample pack holds six individually labeled,<br />

60ml bottles, enclosed in The Pristine Olive’s<br />

new, custom-designed gift box. Perfect for<br />

people who wish to try a little bit of everything!<br />

$30 (Gourmet Pack $34)<br />

SINCE 1819<br />

AT THE HISTORIC ARVA FLOUR MILL<br />

MEATS<br />

Certified Organic<br />

Local &<br />

Gluten-Free<br />

Products<br />

Summer Hours<br />

TUES–SAT 10–5<br />

2042 Elgin St, Arva ON<br />

519-601-6456<br />

www.arvamillhouse.com<br />

OUTLET<br />

Formerly RESTAURANT EQUIPMENT & SUPPLY CO.<br />

Your Christmas<br />

Kitchen Chef Store<br />

More Brands<br />

Larger Inventory<br />

Same Great Service<br />

Let our staff<br />

show you the most<br />

requested gifts!<br />

Perfect ideas for every Foodie on your list!<br />

Open to the Public: Mon-Fri 8-5<br />

234 William Street, London • 519-438-2991<br />

www.trimen.com


22 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Lawrence Burden, from London’s Kiss the Cook shop, suggested<br />

this set of Le Creuset Espresso Mugs. “It really is the “c”<br />

factor with these,” wrote Lawrence. “CUTE! People<br />

are buying them for espresso, but also<br />

for individual desserts.” These petite<br />

mugs will inject a pop of colour into<br />

any kitchen. The durable enamelled<br />

surface resists staining, chipping and<br />

cracking, and is easy to clean. Providing<br />

a totally hygienic surface, it will not absorb<br />

odours or flavours. Microwave, freezer and<br />

dishwasher safe. The set of six is even on promo<br />

for Christmas. $49.99 (regularly $120)<br />

Carrie Wreford also drew our attention to holiday dinnerware<br />

with wide appeal. “From chef, writer and member of<br />

the celebrated Conran design family, The Sophie Conran<br />

by Portmeirion dinnerware collection is the best-selling<br />

dinnerware pattern at Bradshaws,” writes Carrie. “This<br />

award-winning oven-to-table<br />

collection is recognizable<br />

by its curved edges<br />

and rippled bodies<br />

that give the charm<br />

of traditional<br />

pottery. The line is well-priced,<br />

beautifully packaged and offers a<br />

wide range of serving pieces.<br />

NEW this holiday season is the<br />

limited Christmas Collection<br />

from Sophie Conran, meant<br />

to be mixed into your current<br />

assortment to spruce things us<br />

for your holiday table setting.<br />

All pieces are freezer-to-oven,<br />

microwave- and dishwashersafe.”<br />

Dinnerware<br />

(12-piece set) $179<br />

Pudding<br />

Basin $19.95<br />

Those “in the know” are already aware of the European<br />

Appliance Store in Belgrave, just north of Blyth, but<br />

their Marketing Manager Jonathan Roeland is trying to<br />

get the word out further. We asked him for a gift suggestion<br />

that might work for almost anyone, not that we’d<br />

complain if someone tucked a deluxe<br />

new range under our tree! Easier to<br />

wrap is the Chef’s Design Gourmet<br />

Specialty Pan & Buffet Server. The<br />

large 12” non-stick griddle surface is<br />

perfect for sautéing, searing, or browning.<br />

The heavy triple-ply flat bottom<br />

resists warping and conducts heat quickly<br />

and evenly. The Gourmet Specialty Pan<br />

goes form the<br />

range top or<br />

oven straight<br />

to the table for<br />

elegant food<br />

presentation.<br />

The pan also works well for serving<br />

cheese, crackers, sausage and<br />

other cold or hot hors d’oeuvres.<br />

$119.99 (40% off<br />

regular price<br />

of $199)


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Our intrepid book reviewer, Darin Cook,<br />

chipped in with a couple of novel ideas (pun<br />

intended). He identified a couple of needs<br />

that most of us can relate to. “If you’ve ever<br />

wanted to have all types of cheese listed<br />

right before your very eyes, get The Charted<br />

Cheese Wheel (www.popchartlab.com),”<br />

writes Darin.<br />

“You’ll never be<br />

at a loss for inspiration<br />

to meet<br />

all your cheese<br />

needs with this<br />

attractive print<br />

adorning your<br />

kitchen walls. The<br />

Charted Cheese<br />

Wheel references<br />

65 cheeses from<br />

around the world<br />

in the unique<br />

formation that resembles, what else, but a<br />

wheel of cheese. $29, framing extra<br />

“Nobody told me there would be math<br />

involved in cooking,” continued Darin. “A<br />

quick glance at the Oversized Cooking<br />

Measurements<br />

Tea Towel can<br />

provide some<br />

relief. With all<br />

those measurements,<br />

sometimes<br />

mental<br />

gymnastics<br />

put a crimp<br />

in one’s culinary<br />

creativity.<br />

This simplified<br />

measurement conversion<br />

graphic is printed on a 20 x 28 inch tea towel<br />

that does all the calculations for you, while<br />

providing a convenient place for drying your<br />

hands at the same time.” $16<br />

Busy preparing for the holidays?<br />

Let Us Help!<br />

Since 1972<br />

Gift<br />

Certificates<br />

Available<br />

Come by for a<br />

delicious meal of<br />

Home-cooked<br />

Fish & Chips!<br />

“Homemade Goodness<br />

with a Gourmet Touch”<br />

1050 Kipps Lane, London<br />

E&D_LocomotiveED_Nov<strong>2014</strong>_ART.pdf TUES–THURS: 3–7:30 1 201<br />

519-673-6606<br />

FRI: 12–7:30 SAT: 3–7:30<br />

www.kippslanefish.com<br />

Closed SUN & MON<br />

Bradshaws, 129 Ontario Street, Stratford<br />

www.bradshawscanada.com<br />

The European Appliance Store, 39822 Belgrave Rd,<br />

Belgrave www.theeuropeanappliancestore.com<br />

Jill’s Table, 115 King Street, London<br />

www.jillstable.ca<br />

Kiss the Cook, 551 Richmond Street, London<br />

www.kissthecook online.com<br />

The Pristine Olive, 462 Cheapside Street, London<br />

www.thepristineolive.ca


24 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

road trips<br />

Shop, Stay and Play<br />

Christmas in Bayfield<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

SPONSORED BY<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE<br />

Want to pack some fun into<br />

your Christmas shopping?<br />

A short road trip to Bayfield<br />

may be just the answer. Only<br />

an hour’s drive from London along some<br />

picturesque side roads, and located on<br />

the shores of magnificent Lake Huron,<br />

the historic village offers interesting<br />

shopping alongside unique dining and<br />

accommodations. For the foodie, it’s a<br />

place to enjoy craft beers and local cuisine,<br />

and to pick up culinary gifts, all while<br />

supporting independent businesses.<br />

The annual event Christmas in Bayfield<br />

kicks off on the weekend of <strong>November</strong> 8th<br />

and continues every weekend until New<br />

Year’s. Main Street merchants celebrate<br />

by lighting Christmas trees in Clan Gregor<br />

Square beginning on <strong>November</strong> 7th. Some<br />

businesses offer discounts, including no-tax<br />

specials and draws for baskets of goodies.<br />

The joy of heading to Bayfield lies in the ease<br />

of the destination. With ample angle parking<br />

up and down the wide main street, it is a<br />

popular road trip for those who like ease upon<br />

arrival. Situated on Highway 21 between Grand<br />

Bend and Goderich, road trippers like to make<br />

Bayfield the central location for a weekend<br />

get-away, even in the off-season. It is one of<br />

the few lakeshore villages where most shops,<br />

restaurants and Inns remain open year-round.<br />

Upon arrival visitors will notice the newly<br />

Bayfield Town Hall<br />

opened, modern LCBO store adjacent to<br />

the new Foodland grocery store on Highway<br />

21 just south of the main entrance to the<br />

village. If you are staying in the area, these<br />

are great new additions.<br />

There are several outstanding options<br />

for overnight accommodations. The Red<br />

Pump Inn — known widely for its restaurant,<br />

operated by Bayfield legend Harry Israel —<br />

has seven luxury suites. Each is individually<br />

decorated with a European flair and features<br />

unique artwork. All have private balconies<br />

or patios.<br />

Across the street from “The Pump” — as<br />

locals call it — is The Little Inn, now under<br />

the new ownership of Joanne and Mike<br />

Oliver. The historic Inn was opened in 1830<br />

and claims to be the longest continuously<br />

operating Inn in Ontario. There are rooms<br />

The Red Pump Inn<br />

The Little Inn of Bayfield


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26 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

and suites in the main building, which<br />

also houses a lovely sitting room, bar and<br />

restaurant. Or, guests can stay across the<br />

road in the Guest Cottage. Some rooms offer<br />

fireplaces and soaker tubs. There are also B<br />

& B’s in Bayfield and private cottage rentals.<br />

As well there are some local area hotels with<br />

unique offerings. The Hessenland Country<br />

Inn in St. Joseph’s on highway 21 offers guest<br />

rooms along with delicious German and<br />

European cuisine. About 25 minutes’ drive<br />

away is Samuels Hotel in Saltford, which<br />

offers modern guest rooms, some of which<br />

have a view of the Maitland River.<br />

Dining options in Bayfield are diverse,<br />

especially considering the small size of the<br />

village. Pub-lovers flock to the Albion Hotel,<br />

another historic building, for wings, fish<br />

and chips and sports screens. Next door is<br />

the revered Black Dog Bistro operated by<br />

cookbook author Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh<br />

and her husband Ted McIntosh, in yet<br />

another nineteenth-century building. It’s<br />

a special place to kick back and enjoy a<br />

relaxed atmosphere while sampling from<br />

a choice of 21 draft beers or sipping one<br />

of 150 whiskey offerings. This time of year,<br />

an Irish Whisky<br />

speciality coffee<br />

whipped up by<br />

bar manager Peter<br />

Meades is just the<br />

remedy after a day<br />

on the road. “There<br />

are eight speciality<br />

coffees in all and<br />

we sell a lot of them<br />

during Christmas<br />

in Bayfield,” says<br />

Meades. Having<br />

tried one, it’s easy<br />

to understand why.<br />

Graham Watson shows off some fresh chocolate treats<br />

(left). Hiis Charles St. Market shelves are full of party<br />

and holiday favourites such as gourmet dips (above).<br />

Jenn Watson (right), amid the eclectic selection of<br />

houseware, clothing and accessories at Hive, including<br />

some beautifully decorative bowls (above).<br />

The bistro makes<br />

some great burgers,<br />

including one that<br />

comes with buttery<br />

deep-fried onion<br />

rings.<br />

Next to the<br />

Bistro is the Black<br />

Dog Pantry where<br />

Kathleen and her<br />

daughter Alysa<br />

King produce<br />

take-away pot<br />

pies, assorted<br />

cookie boxes and fruit and nut Christmas<br />

cakes. “People also place special orders for<br />

mincemeat tarts and we try out best to meet<br />

the demand,” says King. The baking and<br />

cooking is done in an open kitchen inside<br />

the pantry shop, adjacent to an impressive<br />

cheese display cooler. All you need for a<br />

home party awaits you here.<br />

For shopping, the street offers a wide variety<br />

of merchants and merchandise from books<br />

to original art. Hive is a funky newer addition.<br />

Owner Jenn Wallace proudly offers “an eclectic<br />

mix that is vintage-inspired, bohemian,”<br />

including home accessories, clothing and<br />

jewelry. Her slate cheese boards from The<br />

Slate Company in Scotland are a perfect gift<br />

— you can write on them with chalk! Hive also<br />

has a nice collection of tea mug and strainers<br />

plus serving trays and dishware.<br />

Across the street is Charles St. Market,<br />

operated by Jenn’s brother Graham Wallace.<br />

Here you can buy cheese and crackers for<br />

that new cheese board along with a full line<br />

of Sugar & Spice chocolates made in nearby<br />

Exeter. The asparagus tortilla chips will<br />

make your Christmas party a bit different.<br />

The Market also sells Olive-Me & Co oils


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

and balsamic<br />

Irish Coffee at<br />

The Black Dog Bistro<br />

vinegars, from<br />

London.<br />

“We see a lot<br />

of people return<br />

to their cottages<br />

in the weeks<br />

leading up to<br />

Christmas, “<br />

says Wallace.<br />

“It’s a good<br />

weekend getaway<br />

to relax<br />

before Christmas<br />

gets too<br />

busy.”<br />

A warm cup of coffee awaits at Shop<br />

Bike Coffee Roasters where owner Leanne<br />

Kavanagh also sells unique “retro” candies<br />

from Britain and the US. She roasts her own<br />

beans and sells cups of coffee and beans.<br />

Her coffee would be great with the delicious<br />

offerings of The Pink Flamingo bakery,<br />

across the road from The Little Inn. Owner<br />

and author Erin Bolger makes fantastic<br />

cupcakes and much more. She gained fame<br />

on Dragon’s Den with her hilarious book The<br />

Happy Baker:<br />

A Daters Guide<br />

to Emotional<br />

Baking. Now she<br />

lives in Bayfield<br />

and delights<br />

customers with<br />

her humour and<br />

goodies.<br />

Bayfield can<br />

be the perfect<br />

location for a<br />

short road trip<br />

that combines<br />

culinary and<br />

Some Main Street shop signs<br />

shopping in<br />

great accommodations.<br />

Full details and a schedule of events can be<br />

found at www.villageofbayfield.com<br />

Dinner Thursday to Sunday<br />

Lunch Wednesday to Saturday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

Book NOW for your<br />

Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party<br />

& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

discover the charm<br />

of the season!<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular road warrior contributor<br />

to eatdrink. She is also Manager, Communications & Media<br />

Relations at King’s University College, London.<br />

BRUCE FYFE is a photographer for eatdrink magazine and<br />

Librarian at Weldon Library, Western University, London.<br />

.<br />

“Evidence that you don’t have to be in<br />

a big city to create great things!”<br />

— The Globe & Mail<br />

527 Main Street, Exeter 519-235-3030<br />

30 min North of London • 20 min East of Grand Bend<br />

30 min West of Stratford<br />

www.eddingtons.ca


28 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

spotlight<br />

The Smart APPetite App Stands Out<br />

A “Local” Collaboration<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Recently I was the guest of Dr.<br />

Jason Gilliland (Director, HEAL<br />

and Department of Geography<br />

at Western) and Margaret<br />

Milczarek, the project manager and<br />

research associate for the SmartAPPetite<br />

initiative, for an outstanding lunch at the<br />

Church Key Bistro-Pub. Dr. Gilliland and<br />

I ordered the warm duck salad (which he<br />

highly recommended) with duck leg confit<br />

on greens, roasted mushrooms, candied<br />

almonds, Stilton cheese and white balsamic<br />

and raspberry vinaigrette. Milczarek, a<br />

passionate food enthusiast, ordered the<br />

steamed P.E.I. mussels that were served with<br />

frites, and brought me up-to-date on several<br />

interesting culinary-related activities she<br />

had recently attended.<br />

We were there to discuss the launch of the<br />

smartphone application, or “app,” and an<br />

accompanying interactive website that will<br />

help make healthy<br />

local food more<br />

accessible, and its<br />

interrelated strategies.<br />

SmartAPPetite is a<br />

Western University<br />

community-led<br />

initiative that aims to help keep participants<br />

accountable to their nutrition goals and to<br />

maintain healthy diets. It also helps users<br />

access local food businesses, farmers and<br />

other advocates and proponents of eating<br />

and sourcing food locally.<br />

Incidentally, I have been acquainted<br />

with Dr. Gilliland for several years in his<br />

capacity as an advisor to the Old East Village<br />

BIA and through my work at the Western<br />

Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, where<br />

he and his team, led by Michael Clark<br />

(Old East Village senior researcher and<br />

programs administrator), conducted several<br />

studies and customer surveys, as well as an<br />

economic impact comparative analysis of<br />

farmers’ markets.<br />

Milczarek is responsible for overseeing<br />

the advancement of the project, providing<br />

strategic direction and leadership for The<br />

SmartAPPetite team, and is the liaison for<br />

various staff stakeholders and collaborators.<br />

The project was inaugurated last summer<br />

as a twelve-week pilot with 200 participants at<br />

the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market<br />

who provided feedback on the design and<br />

various applications of the app. A prototype<br />

app has been in the beta testing phase for<br />

months and will soon become a bona fide<br />

“farm-to-fork” digital resource.<br />

The SmartAPPetite team has two chief<br />

goals. First of all, they want to make it easier<br />

for consumers to access healthy, locallysourced,<br />

meals by improving food literacy<br />

and the awareness of what home-grown<br />

Margaret Milczarek, Project Manager, at the<br />

London Potter’s Guild in the Old East Village


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 29<br />

(Left to Right): Mark McGregor (graduate student), Dr.<br />

Jason Gilliland, Gabriela Heslop (Brescia student and<br />

SmartAPP volunteer)<br />

foods are available in our local communities.<br />

Secondly, they want to shine a light on the<br />

importance of southwestern Ontario’s local<br />

food economies and facilitate their roles as<br />

local economic development tools.<br />

The collaborative project is a Labour<br />

Market Partnership,<br />

and is funded by the<br />

Ministry of Training,<br />

Colleges and Universities<br />

and Western University.<br />

It is being led<br />

by Dr. Gilliland’s lab,<br />

the Human Environments<br />

Analysis Laboratory<br />

(HEAL) and<br />

The Department of<br />

Geography at Western<br />

University, with collaboration<br />

from other<br />

partners such as Brescia<br />

University College,<br />

Wilfrid Laurier University,<br />

Old East Village<br />

BIA and the London<br />

Training Centre.<br />

HEAL is committed<br />

to research on public<br />

health and the built<br />

environment (the built<br />

environment encompasses<br />

places and<br />

spaces created or modified<br />

by people including<br />

buildings, parks, and<br />

transportation systems),<br />

Laurier is offering<br />

specialists in geography and environmental<br />

studies and Brescia’s strength is embracing the<br />

diversity of food and nutrition research.<br />

London Training Centre (LTC) executive<br />

director David Corke said that the LTC is<br />

presently the host organization and administrator<br />

of this Labour Market Partnership<br />

(LMP) project. LMP’s are funded by the<br />

Ministry of Training Colleges and Universities<br />

here in Ontario<br />

Corke elaborates, “Our connection and<br />

interest rest both with local food and regional<br />

economic development. A large part of the<br />

work of our organization, in addition to training<br />

and our work with food, also involves<br />

helping people find work and careers. We<br />

believe that a reinvigorated and re-imagined<br />

regional food system, one that establishes<br />

linkages between consumers and producers<br />

through technology such as SmartAPPetite,<br />

will encourage growth in the food sector and<br />

by extension — new businesses and careers<br />

for people.”<br />

In addition to Gilliland, Milczarek,<br />

Clark and Corke, the SmartAPPetite<br />

Team includes Dr. Sean Doherty (Dept. of<br />

Geography & Environmental Studies, WLU),<br />

Dr. Colleen O’Connor (Registered Dietitian,<br />

Food and Nutritional Sciences Division,<br />

Brescia University College), Dr. Richard


30 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Left: Participants at the Essex County Workshop, at<br />

the Kingsville Public Library, with Dr. Rick Sadler (back<br />

left), Mark McGregor (back right), Michael Clark (front)<br />

Below: At Feastival, the London Training Centre’s<br />

annual fundraising event: (L to R) Mark McGregor, Dr.<br />

Rick Sadler, David Corke (Executive Director<br />

of London Training Centre), Michael Clark<br />

(graduate student and Old East Village Senior<br />

Researcher & Programs Administrator<br />

Sadler (Post-<br />

Doctoral Fellow),<br />

Dr. Andrew Clark<br />

(Post-Doctoral<br />

Fellow), and<br />

Mark McGregor<br />

(MA Candidate<br />

and Research<br />

Associate).<br />

While there may seem to be similar apps<br />

currently available, Dr. Gilliland stated, “Smart<br />

APPetite is unique in its approach because<br />

it embraces the diversity of food.” Dozens of<br />

students from Brescia gathered data and in<br />

total over one hundred academics lent scientifically<br />

validated expertise to the project. The<br />

app and an integrated website being designed<br />

by London digital agency Inner Geek Media<br />

will actively provide users with information<br />

about nearby local food options based on<br />

their preferences and/or dietary restrictions.<br />

The objective, Dr. Gilliland emphasized, “is to<br />

develop an app that can communicate to users<br />

not only what, when and where local food can<br />

be procured, but offer reliable dietary information<br />

and nutritional recipes as well. The challenge<br />

will be keeping the content updated and<br />

scientifically valid to maintain credibility.”<br />

Every so often, the team will send the user<br />

short personally customized tips with information<br />

about the health benefits of specific<br />

foods, what is seasonal now, what<br />

foods are available near you, or how<br />

to prepare or store food properly.<br />

You will be able to let them know<br />

when and how often you want to<br />

hear from them. With the app, you<br />

can search for independent restaurants<br />

that are part of the Smart APPetite<br />

ideology. You will be able to get<br />

the restaurant’s address and phone number,<br />

a link to its website and a brief description of<br />

the restaurant and cuisine.<br />

The team has facilitated workshop consultations<br />

to evaluate how best to design<br />

the app to make sure it user-friendly for the<br />

widest variety of users as possible. Attendees<br />

have represented various stakeholders ranging<br />

from farmers (from agriculture to cattle),<br />

producers, processors, distributors, niche<br />

businesses, chefs, restaurateurs, regional<br />

economic development and health unit representatives<br />

and local food advocates. Consultations<br />

were held in Elgin County (Arts<br />

& Cookery Bank), Old East Village (London<br />

Potter’s Guild), Lambton County (Wyoming<br />

Library), Essex County (Kingsville Library),<br />

Middlesex & London (Central Library),<br />

Perth County (The Local Community Food<br />

Centre), and in Oxford County (Gunn’s Hill<br />

Artisan Cheese).<br />

The team has also attended many local<br />

food-focused events as well as being in<br />

touch with stakeholders from Chatham-<br />

Kent and Huron counties. Be sure to<br />

check out the launch and progress of the<br />

SmartAPPetite at www.smartappetite And<br />

be sure to go to the Church Key Pub and<br />

order the confit of duck salad.<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is a contributing editor and eatdrink’s<br />

Food Writer at Large.<br />

Dr. Colleen O’Connor (co-investigator from Brescia and<br />

Registered Dietitian), Grace McGartland (The Arts &<br />

Cookery Bank in West Lorne) & Christine Scheer (CGM).


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 31<br />

Giving never tasted so good...<br />

Since 2012, we’ve donated a percentage of all sales in <strong>November</strong> to Prostate Cancer Research<br />

at London Regional Cancer Program at London Health Sciences Centre.<br />

With your support we can do it again!<br />

119 King Street, London, ON<br />

(519) 675-9995<br />

www.abruzzi.ca


32 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

The BUZZ ... new and notable<br />

The cold weather’s coming, but don’t let that<br />

stop you from indulging your inner gastronome.<br />

Some of the outdoor markets remain open, and<br />

the indoor locations are also flush with fresh<br />

products. Check out a new (or new-to-you) restaurant or<br />

café in the neighbourhood. Take a day trip further afield to<br />

discover something delicious (or just to sip on your favourite<br />

wintertime beverage when you reach your destination). Head<br />

back to class — cooking class, that is — to learn some new<br />

tricks. Or nourish your mind, with something like this ...<br />

Concerned about bees? World-renowned bee expert Dr.<br />

Laurence Packer will share his insights on wild bees and<br />

will be joined by an expert panel to discuss conservation<br />

and restoration strategies in London. Find out about the<br />

issues, and learn some practical steps we can take. Plight of<br />

the Pollinators: Making London Pollinator Friendly,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 24 from 7-9 p.m. at Wolf Performance Hall (Central<br />

Library, 251 Dundas St. London) Attendance is free.<br />

Jill Wilcox recently hosted an elegant open house to celebrate<br />

Jill’s Table’s 15th anniversary and to introduce the brand new<br />

kitchen. Jill partnered with McKaskell Haindl Design Build to<br />

create a wonderful new space so you can enjoy time around the<br />

table with great friends and food. This fall as part of their cooking<br />

class line-up they are welcoming back chefs Paul Harding,<br />

Josie Pontarelli, Vicci Coughlin, Chris Squire, Steve James<br />

and Emily Richards. New to the Jill’s Table kitchen this season<br />

are Eric Neves from The Only on King and Justin Wolfe of The<br />

Early Bird and Rock Au Taco. www.jillstable.ca<br />

Dickens’ Dinner—An Upper Canada Christmas Carol.<br />

Enjoy a Victorian Christmas dinner followed by a performance<br />

of An Upper Canada Christmas Carol: A Play by Jason Rip.<br />

Colonel Thomas Talbot may be the most powerful man in his<br />

35,000 acre “principality” along the shore of Lake Erie in early<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Win a Lexus Road Trip!<br />

from<br />

eatdrink<br />

and<br />

19th century Upper Canada, but he is not known as a kind<br />

man. Discover for yourself if a parade of tranquility-shattering<br />

phantoms can change his ultimate fate. <strong>November</strong> 28–<br />

<strong>December</strong> 13. www.fanshawepioneervillage.ca.<br />

Kiss the Cook cooking class instructors for the next few<br />

months include Danijel Markovic of Kantina, Chris<br />

Squire, and Neil Baxter from Rundles in Stratford. www.<br />

kissthecookonline.com<br />

Farm Boy has plans to open two new fresh market stores<br />

in London, to be located at 109 Fanshawe Park Road East<br />

(“Masonville”) and 1415 Beaverbrook Avenue (“Beaverbrook”).<br />

The new stores will create 260 new jobs for the region when<br />

they open in the spring of 2015. The grocery is well known<br />

for its fresh produce, butcher quality meats and hundreds of<br />

unique private label items. www.farmboy.ca/london<br />

Paul Harding, proprietor/chef of The Only On King, was<br />

honoured as one of this year’s 20 Under 40 award recipients.<br />

The program recognizes accomplished London industry leaders<br />

who are under the age of 40 who also give back to their<br />

community. The <strong>2014</strong> recipients will be profiled in a special print<br />

and digital supplement to be distributed with the <strong>November</strong><br />

issue of Business London. The recipients will also be feted at a<br />

cocktail reception at the London Music Hall on <strong>November</strong> 12.<br />

We here at eatdrink are currently compiling London’s<br />

Local Flavour, the 2015 Tourism London Culinary Guide.<br />

This guide continues to confirm that Londoners are not just<br />

advocating “eating and drinking local” and “eating seasonal,”<br />

they are actively and creatively enhancing and making new<br />

other established cuisines. Local Flavour helps businesses<br />

participate in two popular economic trends — culinary<br />

tourism and the local food movement. Likewise, more and<br />

more environmental and ethical options such as sustainable<br />

Enter our Draw for a Lexus Reflections President Package<br />

The comprehensive appearance reconditioning service will completely rejuvenate<br />

your vehicle. While the fully-trained Appearance Technicians detail your vehicle,<br />

you will be provided with a beautiful Lexus to drive for a weekend!<br />

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Contest ends <strong>December</strong> 15, <strong>2014</strong>. Complete details online.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 33<br />

seafood, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and organic are being<br />

offered. For more information, contact bryan@eatdrink.ca or<br />

chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

“It felt like home and we put down our roots,” says Brenda<br />

Daniel of From the Meadow, who has been farming since<br />

1978. She and her husband Dave, along with their daughter<br />

Heather, grow, harvest and manufacture a variety of natural<br />

herb products on their 5-acre plot. They call their (MyPick®<br />

local farmer verified) business an “adventure” and are<br />

passionate about creating revitalizing and relaxing healing<br />

creams, scrubs, shampoos, soaps, make-up and more with<br />

their own culinary herbs and other natural ingredients. Their<br />

products are available at their “Farmacy” at their farm in<br />

Elgin County and at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’<br />

Market. vimeo.com/72948434<br />

Smokin’ Good fishmonger John England has expanded his<br />

line of fresh and smoked fish at the Western Fair Farmers’<br />

& Artisans’ Market. England offers a wide selection of<br />

seasonally-available fresh lake fish and shell fish that include:<br />

Lake Erie perch, pickerel, and smelt; Iceland arctic char and<br />

salmon, Campbell River salmon, wild chinook and coho<br />

salmon, gravlax, oysters and P.E.I. mussels. England is also<br />

known for his smoked pork, chicken and salmon.<br />

In Restaurant News …<br />

Thaifoon Restaurant has new owners, Mainsay Visouvath<br />

and Fouzan (Rafael) Beg, relatives of former owners<br />

Eddy and Alex Phimphrachanh. The kitchen continues to<br />

set Thaifoon apart with bang-on aromatic specialties from<br />

the Thai culinary canon and with a keen eye for detail and<br />

presentation. The minimalist room is sleek, with a sexy,<br />

upbeat soundtrack, rich dark woods and ultra-soft leather<br />

banquettes. www.thaifoonrestaurant.com<br />

Olive R Twists opened in mid-October in the Covent Garden<br />

Market after months of refurbishment. The restaurant is<br />

co-owned by Chris Doris, co-owner of Doris Family Produce<br />

in the market, and Greg Efstatheu, a restaurateur/chef from<br />

Ingersoll. Menus feature casual bistro fare. The 75-foot-long bar<br />

uses state of the art tap technology. Find your favourite craft<br />

and draft beers, handcrafted cocktails, and an intriguing menu<br />

of classic and trendy martinis.<br />

The sale of the Honest Lawyer building, which also housed<br />

Downtown Kathy Brown’s, is expected to be finalized at<br />

the end of October. Restaurateur Marvin Rivas, who blends<br />

tradition and ingenuity in true Latin American style at his<br />

downtown hot-spot, Che Restobar, plans to put an upscale<br />

restaurant with an atrium on the main floor and residential<br />

apartments on the upper floors.<br />

Downtown London’s<br />

Upscale Authentic Thai Restaurant<br />

Book your Holiday Party now!<br />

Mainsay and Rafael (Fouzan) invite<br />

you to join them for dinner or lunch<br />

519.850.1222 120 Dundas St. at Talbot<br />

www.thaifoonrestaurant.com


34 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Tabitha Switzer and David Coulter have been running La<br />

Noisette Bakery for a few months now, and getting rave<br />

reviews. Located in Bellwood Plaza (Oxford and Gammage, in<br />

London) they offer breads, pastries, sandwiches, soups, and<br />

Patrick’s Beans. Always fresh-made, and offered with a smile.<br />

Find La Noisette Bakery on Facebook.<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub offers top-notch cooking and<br />

chef Michael Anglestad has a repertoire of flavours that are<br />

big, brash and rustic but thoroughly cosmopolitan. Pastry chef<br />

Cliff Briden is also at the top of his game. Best of all, owners<br />

Vanessa and Pete Willis have created a welcoming place for<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

locals to meet and imbibe. The Church Key serves one of the<br />

best Sunday brunches in the city. www.thechurchkey.ca<br />

Established and operated by brothers Peter, Theodoros and<br />

Elias Vergiris, The Mascot was a family-run restaurant that<br />

relied on a loyal clientele of regulars for 43 years. The Mascot<br />

closed in October when the family retired. The building, near<br />

Dundas and Richmond, was purchased by Michael Manuel<br />

of the London Music Hall.<br />

Speaking of brunch, panoramic views and the tailored simplicity<br />

and elegance of The River Room Café and Private Catering<br />

make it a pleasing spot for lunch or Sunday brunch. Jess Jazey-<br />

Spoelstra’s kitchen has a deserved reputation for the quality<br />

of the ingredients and the knowledgeable and expressive<br />

exuberance of the preparations. Currently open just for lunch,<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra tells eatdrink that she plans to open the<br />

third Thursday every month for dinner starting in the New Year.<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra’s smart Rhino Lounge Bakery and Coffee<br />

Shoppe, situated in the former gift shop at Museum London,<br />

is now serving made-to-order sandwiches on Pastry Chef<br />

Michele Lenhardt’s daily bread (flavours change). And don’t<br />

forget about Lenhardt’s delicious cronuts on Thursdays. www.<br />

northmoore.ca/theriverroom/<br />

Felipe Gomes provides an experiential culinary offering at<br />

Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant,with amenities and<br />

facilities for cooking classes, corporate team building exercises<br />

and a private conference room for up to 30. Gomes’s other<br />

project is the Aroma Café, a Parisian-inspired coffee house<br />

offering patrons a selection of speciality sandwiches, café au<br />

lait, croissants and pâtisserie. www.fginternationalcorp.com<br />

Icarus Resto Bar on Richmond Row, next to Black<br />

Trumpet, has gotten off to a smash success. Uber-chef<br />

Thomas Waite is plating up some very innovative<br />

and interesting modernist-inspired and reimagined<br />

Mediterranean and Greek dishes in the open kitchen. The<br />

hospitable Zack Agathos and his service-oriented staff are<br />

keeping the place humming. www.icarusrestobar.com<br />

Stunning Views<br />

Excellent Food<br />

Ambiance Galore<br />

CRONUT<br />

Thursdays!<br />

TUES, WED, FRI, SAT & SUN 11am–5pm<br />

THURS 11–9 • Closed MON<br />

Available for Private Events for up to 60<br />

rhinolounge.ca | 519.850.5111<br />

at<br />

MUSEUM<br />

LONDON<br />

421 ridout st.<br />

Book Now for<br />

HOLIDAY<br />

LUNCHES<br />

Café Open TUES to FRI, 11–4<br />

SUN Brunch, 11–4<br />

Available Evenings for Private Events<br />

theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Linda D’Andrea of Black Trumpet tells us that Chef Jason<br />

Eccles and Chef James Smith at La Casa and Chef Scott<br />

Wesseling at Black Trumpet have just introduced new<br />

lunch and dinner menus for the upcoming holiday season.<br />

www.lacasaristorante.com & www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

Blu Duby has become one of London’s hottest downtown<br />

restaurants — just try getting a last-minute reservation on<br />

a weekend night. Chef Jamie Craig has recently joined Blu<br />

Duby, bringing a culinary philosophy of appreciation for fresh<br />

quality commodities and consistent proper preparation. In<br />

addition to his passion for cooking, Jamie finds great satisfaction<br />

in helping to discover and develop the talents of his younger<br />

chef apprentices. He keeps his own skills current and sharp by<br />

participating in culinary festivals like Savour Stratford, and<br />

Canada’s Gold Medal Plate event. www.bluduby.com<br />

Chef de Cuisine Trevor Stephens holds an Interprovincial Red<br />

Seal Certificate and received classical training at Fanshawe<br />

College. He comes to Idlewyld Inn & Spa after spending nine<br />

years at their sister Inn, Ingersoll’s Elm Hurst Inn & Spa, where<br />

he achieved the title of sous chef. Nestled in London’s quaint Old<br />

South neighborhood, the historic Idlewyld has sustained its air<br />

of excellence for over a century. What started out as a private<br />

residence in Victorian times has evolved into London’s premier<br />

boutique hotel, boasting membership in such organizations as<br />

Distinguished Inns of North America and gaining the prestigious<br />

designation of being named one of Ontario’s Finest Inns. Check<br />

out Chef Stephen’s new menu online. www.idlewyldinn.com<br />

Members of the London Brewing Cooperative will be<br />

talking about their brewing practices during two special<br />

events in <strong>November</strong>, both at The Root Cellar. Called Farm<br />

to Fork: The People’s Pint, the events run from 6 to 9 pm,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 12 and 27. Cost is $50, which includes a threecourse<br />

meal and a flight of beers. www.londonbrewing.ca<br />

Lunch & Dinner<br />

7 Days a Week<br />

Mediterranean<br />

Open Kitchen<br />

Farm to Table Inspired<br />

Licenced<br />

Book<br />

Now for<br />

Holiday<br />

Parties<br />

519 Richmond Street (near Dufferin) 519 601 7110<br />

www.icarusrestobar.com<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine<br />

Poacher’s Arms is London’s oldest pub. True to the pub<br />

tradition, it offers good solid hearty food at accessible prices.<br />

Co-owner Jim Lee tells us that the menu has been revamped<br />

and polished to include some great new items. The pub now<br />

carries 5 new rotating craft beers on draught that they are<br />

constantly changing, which has generated a lot of positive<br />

feedback from their regulars. www.poachersarms.ca<br />

Restaurateur Mike Smith has installed a brewery in the<br />

basement of his Jim Bob Ray’s bar and is getting geared<br />

up to launch a line of locally-brewed craft beer. The primary<br />

market for his beer will be his own establishments: Jim Bob<br />

Ray’s, Joe Kool’s, Fellini Koolini’s Italian Cuisini, The<br />

Runt Club and P Za Pie. However, Smith is also working on<br />

attaining licensing and developing a brand so he can retail<br />

his craft beers in other establishments, joining other local<br />

craft brewery favourites like London’s Forked River, Railway<br />

City in St. Thomas, the fledgling Black Swan Brewery in<br />

Stratford and the new Strathroy Brewing Company.<br />

• Vegetarian<br />

Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

• Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

LUNCH Tues–Fri 11am–1pm<br />

DINNER Tues–Fri 5–10pm • Sat 12–10pm • Sun 2–10pm<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

In Coffee News ...<br />

Locomotive Espresso is now retailing the Aeropress (similar<br />

to a French press) and the KeepCup (the world’s first barista<br />

standard reusable cup) which are both getting rave reviews.<br />

They continue to brew the classic favourites, and the flat<br />

white (Aussie) and cortado (South America) beverages are<br />

gaining popularity. And, for espressophiles, Locomotive is<br />

hosting a <strong>December</strong> bus trip to Toronto. Tour the Pilot Roaster<br />

tasting bar and three selected espresso bars, and get your fill<br />

of coffee for the day. www.locomotiveespresso.com<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course<br />

prix fixe menu<br />

option<br />

432 Richmond St.<br />

at Carling • London<br />

Brilliant<br />

Holiday Celebrations!<br />

Patrick Dunham’s goal is to offer high quality coffee blends that<br />

are roasted locally and sourced ethically. Dunham caters to the<br />

specific needs of clients and his strategy includes offering fund<br />

raising opportunities to non-profits as well as demonstrating<br />

transparent community involvement. Beans are roasted in small<br />

batches and blended to attain tailor-made tastes and complexities<br />

that cannot be found in single varietal selections. Look for<br />

Patrick’s Beans on Facebook, or at Ogilvie’s Market, Sunnivue<br />

Farm near Ailsa Craig, The Arva Flour Mill, Time to Chill in<br />

Woodstock, The Root Cellar, Hungary Butcher and The Rhino<br />

Bakery and Lounge. www.patricksbeans.com<br />

Around The Region ...<br />

Yoda’s Private Catering has moved! The small (but mighty!)<br />

catering company is now located at 481 Talbot Street, St.<br />

Thomas. Stay tuned for their grand opening in January 2015.<br />

Open to the public every Wednesday for #walkinwednesday<br />

from 10am–6pm with seasonal soups, frozen entrees and<br />

lunch specials, with plenty of vegetarian and gluten free<br />

options. letyodacookforyou.com<br />

The folks at Railway City Brewing are pleased to announce<br />

that they have just received another order of new 40HL and<br />

20HL fermentors, increasing brewing capacity by 50%. Stop<br />

in for a visit, and check out the new equipment. They will be<br />

releasing Cranberry Festive Lager in <strong>November</strong> at a Thursday<br />

Night Release event. Featuring cranberries from Bala, Ontario,<br />

the lager will be available from the LCBO as part of Railway<br />

City’s Holiday Gift Pack. www.railwaycitybrewing.com<br />

“A place you<br />

can depend on<br />

and delight in”<br />

— eatdrink<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London<br />

519-667-4930<br />

www.blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

EXPRESS LUNCHES<br />

INTIMATE DINNERS<br />

EXTRAORDINARY<br />

CATERING<br />

DIETARY NEEDS<br />

ACCOMMODATED<br />

AMPLE FREE PARKING<br />

The Little Inn, the heart of hospitality in heritage Bayfield, has<br />

changed ownership. After 33 years, Gayle and Pat Waters have<br />

turned the business over to new owners Mike and Joanne<br />

Oliver. The Olivers will be making a few changes to maintain<br />

and update the building. The inn has been the centre of the<br />

Huron County village since 1832 and has been Four Diamond<br />

CAA rated for more than 20 years. www.littleinn.com<br />

Air Canada’s award-winning inflight magazine, enRoute,<br />

announced their Top 10 list of Canada’s Best New<br />

Restaurants <strong>2014</strong>, as well as the Best New Restaurants <strong>2014</strong><br />

People’s Choice Award. On a month-long culinary journey that<br />

took noted food writer Andrew Braithwaite from Tofino,<br />

British Columbia to St. John’s, Newfoundland, he discovered a<br />

group of chefs, sommeliers and restaurateurs who continued


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 39<br />

to explore this country’s terroir and redefine what it means<br />

to dine out in Canada. Read more: ethicalgourmet.blogspot.<br />

ca/<strong>2014</strong>/10/air-canadas-enroute-magazine-announces.html<br />

Stratford …<br />

Mercer Hall Craft Beer Dinner Series. Chefs Tim Larson<br />

and Sean Collins create 4 courses matched with 4 beers<br />

from a different craft brewery each month. Learn about the<br />

breweries and the process while enjoying seasonal and staple<br />

products from these artisan breweries. Overnight packages<br />

are available with Mercer Hall guest rooms. On <strong>November</strong> 20,<br />

the partner brewer is Flying Monkeys Brewery from Barrie.<br />

On <strong>December</strong> 18, Block Three Brewing Company from St.<br />

Jacobs will be there. www.mercerhall.com/supper-club<br />

Want to be a food critic? Stratford Chefs School aspiring<br />

chefs are preparing favourite classic menus with passion and<br />

skill and invite you to join them. The Classic Dinner Series is<br />

served at The Prune, while 3-course lunches designed by<br />

the students take place at Bijou Friday and Saturday. www.<br />

stratfordchef.com<br />

Mercer Hall presents The SUPPER CLUB. This is a long table<br />

dinner with a themed menu and guests are encouraged to dress<br />

up to match the theme. How about donning that ugly Christmas<br />

sweater for “The Griswalds” dinner? Tickets are $50, include a<br />

feature cocktail and 4-5 course dinner. Cocktails begin at 6pm<br />

If your senses light up with the first signs of Christmas, then<br />

Stratford’s annual Yuletide Tour of Home is the place you’ll<br />

want to start. Presented by the local chapter of IODE, the tour<br />

features four beautiful city homes and one gracious country<br />

home, all decorated by local designers in the tantalizing<br />

sights, sounds, textures and aromas of the season. At Royal<br />

Palisade tourers can feast on hot mulled cider and mouthwatering<br />

Christmas goodies created under the direction of<br />

executive chef Liz Tracey. <strong>November</strong> 22 and 23. 519-271-8745,<br />

stratfordiode@gmail.com, or on Facebook.<br />

Bradshaws Christmas Open House is an annual shopping<br />

tradition in downtown Stratford, marking the beginning<br />

of the holiday season. Visit this event for delicious food<br />

samplings, new product demos, and the best assortment of<br />

holiday gifts, foods and kitchenware. Enter to win door prizes<br />

and receive a FREE gift with purchase. Thursday <strong>November</strong> 6th<br />

5–8pm. www.bradshawscanada.com<br />

We love Monforte Dairy’s 30 varieties of artisanal cheese<br />

available at over 30 farmers markets, and catching a local<br />

seasonal meal (preferably with cheese!) at Monforte<br />

on Wellington, a relaxed osteria style restaurant. Now<br />

the Monforte Home Farm is part of the family, where<br />

the community will come for sustenance, learning and<br />

revitalization. In March 2015, the Monforte Dairy Artisanal<br />

Cheesemaking School will be launched.<br />

Try Our NEW Grilled Seafood Menu Items!<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />

DISCOVER<br />

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />

INDULGE<br />

in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent<br />

and calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4<br />

Mother’s Day to <strong>December</strong> 20<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Join us for our<br />

Christmas<br />

Open House<br />

<strong>November</strong><br />

22 & 23<br />

ENJOY<br />

Authentic<br />

Greek Wines<br />

& Beer<br />

OPEN LATE!<br />

Sundays 4–9<br />

MON−SAT 11–10<br />

EAT-IN OR<br />

TAKE-OUT<br />

572 Adelaide Street, London<br />

519-434-6736<br />

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca


40 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

and dinner is served family-style in the private dining room.<br />

<strong>December</strong> 20. 519-271-9202, www.mercerhall.ca/supper-club<br />

Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market is moving inside,<br />

to a NEW location — The Falstaff Family Centre, Stratford,<br />

35 Waterloo Street, Stratford. The market you know and love<br />

is open Sundays from 10 am–2 pm all year round. www.<br />

slowfoodperthcounty.ca<br />

Blue Cheese and Port, one of<br />

the classic food and beverage<br />

pairings will be discussed and<br />

tasted with several variations<br />

of blue veined cheeses and<br />

3 different ports. Saturday,<br />

<strong>November</strong> 22 at The Milky<br />

Whey Fine Cheese Shop.<br />

www.visitstratford.ca/tastings<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market is<br />

a year-round market operating<br />

since 1855. Fresh produce, crafts,<br />

meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex–Agriplex, 353<br />

McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7 am–12 pm. 519-271-5130.<br />

www.stratfordfairgrounds.com<br />

We want your<br />

BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like people to know about?<br />

eatdrink has thousands of readers across<br />

Southwestern Ontario<br />

Get in touch with us at<br />

editor@eatdrink.ca<br />

Scotch and Chocolate: Share the warmth as Kristene<br />

Steed of Rheo Thompson Candies pairs up with a whisky<br />

expert for a smooth tasting of scotch and chocolate. Saturday,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 13. www.visitstratford.ca/tastings<br />

A Wind in the Willows Christmas — Join Alternative<br />

Theatre Works this holiday season in this delightful familyfriendly<br />

adventure to Mole End! This fresh adaptation by<br />

Alternative Theatre Works<br />

of A Wind in the Willows is<br />

back and sure to be a holiday<br />

classic in Stratford. Special<br />

guest Graham Greene takes<br />

on the character of Toad,<br />

joining some of Stratford’s<br />

most beloved actors, Stephen<br />

Russell, Brad Rudy and<br />

Robert King. Come and<br />

share this heartwarming tale<br />

of friendship, generosity and<br />

the joy of being home for<br />

Christmas in Stratford. The cast<br />

is pleased to welcome Stratford actress Jessica Seguin as<br />

Head Mouse! The Masonic Hall, <strong>December</strong> 17–30. Don’t miss<br />

out on an experience that is sure to bring joy to your whole<br />

family this festive season. www.visitstratford.ca/wind<br />

Reserve Now for Your<br />

HOLIDAY PARTIES<br />

Open WED to SUN<br />

11am to 10:30pm<br />

“Pure<br />

Chinese”<br />

Cuisine<br />

—eatdrink<br />

NEW<br />

MENUS<br />

NOW HERE<br />

Five Fortune Culture<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

366 Richmond Street at King<br />

www.fivefortuneculture.com<br />

226 667 9873<br />

117 King Street<br />

across from Budweiser Gardens<br />

519-434-2272 (CASA)<br />

www.lacasaristorante.com<br />

“Enjoy consistently<br />

outstanding Italian and<br />

Mediterranean cuisine<br />

enhanced by local and<br />

seasonal ingredients.”<br />

OPEN<br />

Monday–Saturday<br />

Lunch & Dinner


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 41<br />

farmers & artisans<br />

The Food Web<br />

Part 4 — Autumn to Winter<br />

By ANTONY JOHN<br />

The passing of Labour Day heralds<br />

a number of changes to our farm.<br />

From now until the snows of<br />

<strong>December</strong>, we are entering full<br />

harvest mode, and everything rides on its<br />

successful conclusion.<br />

We have invested up to eight months<br />

on some crops such as celeriac and leeks,<br />

seeding, transplanting, weeding, more<br />

weeding, and protecting them from various<br />

pests and diseases. All this has soaked up<br />

large amounts of time, space, organic inputs,<br />

and labour, and it’s too easy to lose one’s<br />

shirt over inefficiencies at harvest time.<br />

There is a system for doing everything on a<br />

farm. I learned that fresh out of university<br />

on my first trip home to Tina’s farm. The<br />

only thing that kept me going mucking out<br />

the calf pens was pride, as Tina out-paced<br />

me time and again, forking manure-packed<br />

straw into a wheelbarrow. She had a system,<br />

and I would do well to learn it.<br />

It is therefore a good thing that when<br />

the time comes to harvest the fruits (well,<br />

vegetables) of our labour, our crew has had<br />

eight months<br />

to learn the<br />

various systems<br />

we’ve developed,<br />

to quickly and carefully<br />

harvest each of the 50 or so crops we grow. I<br />

don’t think I can say enough about the skill<br />

level required to efficiently harvest items<br />

requiring a high degree of in-field editing for<br />

our discerning customers, or how impressed<br />

I am by our team’s ability to carry it off week<br />

after week, in any weather.<br />

There is more than just a shift in tempo<br />

and scenery on our farm as we move into fall.<br />

Around the middle of August, the soundscape<br />

changes, almost overnight. Now that the<br />

young of the season have fledged and left their<br />

nests, male birds no longer need to expend<br />

energy advertising territories (remember,<br />

efficiency), and so they stop singing. Fall<br />

is the time of the insects. The farm chorus<br />

switches from the complex harmonies and<br />

arias of the birds, to the buzzes, chirps, and<br />

trills of cicadas, grasshoppers, crickets, and<br />

katydids, while the ever-present bees provide


42 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Harvesting the leeks and Dino Kale<br />

To market, to market<br />

Kalette sprouts<br />

a background drone (pun intended), and<br />

more and more butterflies appear, to feed<br />

on developing flowers. It’s as if the insects<br />

are providing a soundtrack for the buzz of<br />

energy and electricity on our farm as it gears<br />

up for fall harvest.<br />

The most important consideration in the<br />

crops we grow isn’t yield, it’s flavour. As I<br />

see it, there are four forces at work that, in<br />

combination, will have a huge bearing on<br />

the flavour of the food we grow. They are:<br />

seed, soil, climate, and the farmer.<br />

There is huge variation in flavour<br />

intensity and profile within each vegetable<br />

seed variety available on the market, and<br />

the farmer typically balances practical<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

considerations such as days to maturity or<br />

ease of mechanical harvest, with the flavour<br />

characteristics of each variety, as he makes<br />

his choice of what to grow (yes Virginia,<br />

there IS a trade off here).<br />

Soil also has a massive bearing on flavour<br />

development, and the farmer (working with<br />

soil consultants), has the ability to manage<br />

much more than the N, P, and K levels<br />

(nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium),<br />

to boost flavour and shelf life through<br />

micronutrient management as well.<br />

Climate, and its impact on flavour, is the<br />

main reason why our farm is such a late<br />

finisher in the harvest race. As root crops<br />

develop, fall frosts trigger a biochemical<br />

reaction in the still-growing crops. Belowfreezing<br />

temperatures signal the plants to<br />

manufacture anti-freeze, so the roots survive<br />

the winter, and that anti-freeze (luckily for<br />

us), is sugar. Successive frosts cause the<br />

plants to convert the starches in their roots<br />

into sugars (evolutionarily speaking, that’s<br />

one of the reasons they have starchy roots<br />

in the first place). Once again, it’s up to<br />

the farmer to take advantage of this or not,<br />

through planting and harvest timing.<br />

As with most things in life, it seems that<br />

one can’t grow good tasting food without a<br />

trade-off in effort.<br />

As the Snow Buntings arrive in <strong>December</strong><br />

to overwinter on our farm (and eat our<br />

pigweed seeds!), we will be wrapping up<br />

our harvest and, hopefully, filling our cold<br />

storage with healthy, tasty vegetables for<br />

our restaurant and market customers,<br />

through Christmas dinner and into the cold<br />

months of winter. Come January, we start<br />

the cycle again.<br />

ANTONY<br />

JOHN is an<br />

organic farmer,<br />

painter and avid<br />

birdwatcher.<br />

He lives near<br />

Stratford. This is<br />

the fourth and<br />

final in a series<br />

of reflections<br />

on the food we<br />

grow and buy.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 43<br />

travel<br />

Deliciously Lost in Italy<br />

By CLAUDIA VIANI<br />

Ihave lost count of how many times<br />

I have been to Italy, and whenever<br />

someone asks me where to go and what<br />

to see there I simply tell them to “get<br />

lost”. Whether you’re travelling independently<br />

or on a scheduled tour, to truly capture the<br />

essence of this beautiful destination make sure<br />

that you always find time to explore and to<br />

make discoveries on your own.<br />

I recently travelled there with 27 photo<br />

enthusiasts, and our 14-day journey began<br />

in the Eternal City. First stop was a mostly<br />

private stroll on the antique Appian Way,<br />

one of the earliest and most strategically<br />

important roads of ancient Rome. Today it<br />

is mainly enjoyed by locals, as a passeggiata<br />

and an escape from the summer heat<br />

and tourist crowds ... which we also later<br />

encountered. Few cities in the world<br />

can compare with Rome and its ancient<br />

wonders…the Colosseum, the Forum, the<br />

Palatine Hills and, of course, the three main<br />

piazzas — the Trevi Fountain, Spanish<br />

Steps and my favourite, Piazza Navona. The<br />

other must-see is Vatican City, showcasing<br />

Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican Museums,<br />

and one of Michelangelo’s masterpieces,<br />

the Sistine Chapel.<br />

A delicious discovery in the Tuscan city of Lucca<br />

For three days we walked, experienced, and<br />

photographed, and soon discovered that most<br />

of the tourists are gone by sundown, allowing us<br />

to savour quiet evenings dining al fresco in local<br />

cafés and trattorias. Fresh-out-of-the-oven lasagna,<br />

minestrone and various pasta dishes with local wine<br />

selections were enjoyed by all…diets forgotten or<br />

ignored. My most memorable Roman dish was ricotta<br />

and spinach filled homemade ravioli, with either a<br />

porcini mushroom or gorgonzola sauce. The owner<br />

proudly allowed me to sample both. Unfortunately I<br />

discovered this dish on our last evening.<br />

We moved on to Tuscany, travelling bright and<br />

early towards the Val D’Orcia region. After busy and<br />

hectic Rome, this provided a peaceful and serene<br />

environment. Brief stops to enjoy a local village<br />

At San Donato Winery, on the hills of San Gimignano


44 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Il Duomo dominates the<br />

skyline of Florence. Left,<br />

detail from a statue in St.<br />

Peter’s Basilica in Rome<br />

antique car show<br />

and the quaint hilltop<br />

town of Pienza<br />

left us all wanting<br />

more of the same,<br />

but Siena awaited.<br />

We were welcomed with a<br />

typical Italian Sunday pranzo<br />

(mid-day meal). After the antipastos<br />

and three types of pasta<br />

were served, I recognized the<br />

panic in everyone’s faces, upon<br />

the realization that this was<br />

only the second course of our<br />

lunch, with at least two more to<br />

come. I have often witnessed<br />

this reaction at my parents’<br />

home with first-time meal<br />

guests. We persevered and<br />

after lunch waddled through<br />

what was left of our afternoon<br />

in what is likely Italy’s loveliest<br />

medieval city. Fortunately<br />

Siena was built over three hills,<br />

allowing us to walk off most of our meal.<br />

Next stop and base for five days was<br />

Lucca. A beautiful Tuscan town protected<br />

by perfectly preserved thick 16th-century<br />

walls, Lucca is a city to stroll through.<br />

Featuring some of Italy’s finest medieval and<br />

Renaissance architecture, superb cuisine<br />

and shopping, a few of the must-sees are<br />

the Piazza Anfiteatro (built on the site of an<br />

original Roman amphitheatre), the Guinigi<br />

Tower with a tree growing on top, and of<br />

course the city’s wide walls — which can be<br />

enjoyed either on foot or by bicycle (the town<br />

offers bike rentals by the day or the week.)<br />

Everyone loved Lucca. This is where we<br />

enjoyed the best thin-crust wood oven pizza<br />

and savoured two other memorable dishes:<br />

local meat-filled tordelli with ragout sauce<br />

(probably lovingly handmade by someone’s<br />

nonna), and tagliatelle with freshly shaved<br />

white truffles. Need I say more? Oh yes —<br />

local wines and gelato!<br />

As a traditional Lucchese I ended each<br />

meal with a corretto (espresso coffee with<br />

a splash of liquor — I preferred Sambuca).<br />

Our group leader is now also hooked, and<br />

will be trying it at home.<br />

From Lucca we enjoyed a day trip to Cinque<br />

Terre, the perfect sunny day allowing us to<br />

reach the five villages by boat. Another day<br />

brought us to Monteriggioni and a leisurely<br />

wine tasting and lunch at a nearby winery,<br />

which resulted in the cancellation of a planned<br />

visit to San Gimignano. These things happen<br />

when one is experiencing la Dolce Vita.<br />

Buildings are terraced on the steep and rugged<br />

landscape of Cinque Terre


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

A Taste of Europe since 1974<br />

40YEAR<br />

Anniversary<br />

Giovanni, barista at the Bar Spuntineria da Aristo di<br />

Lorenzo Togneri, in Barga, offered samples of local<br />

cheese and cured meats<br />

We also enjoyed our trip to another<br />

medieval town, Barga — aka “The most<br />

Scottish place in Italy”. The link to Scotland<br />

dates back to the early 1850s and many<br />

locals still maintain a strong connection<br />

to their Scottish roots. Arriving in the early<br />

afternoon allowed us the luxury of wandering<br />

the streets practically on our own. For avid<br />

photographers this is a wish come true, as<br />

there will not be any (other) pesky tourists<br />

featured in their perfectly framed shot!<br />

Giovanni, a very colourful barista at<br />

the Bar Spuntineria da Aristo, invited me<br />

to sample local cured meats and cheese,<br />

which this area of Tuscany (Garfagnana) is<br />

well known for in culinary circles. In return<br />

I promised that I would mention him and<br />

include his photograph with this article.<br />

We moved on to Florence (our home for<br />

three nights) via brief visits to the seaside<br />

town of Viareggio and the Piazza dei<br />

Miracoli in Pisa. Our photographers were<br />

quite creative in their compositions while in<br />

Pisa, one actually framed a perfect shot of<br />

the tower so that it no longer leaned!<br />

Along with group visits to iconic landmarks<br />

and points of interest such as the Cathedral of<br />

Santa Maria del Fiore, Brunelleschi’s Duomo,<br />

Michelangelo’s David and Ponte Vecchio,<br />

we ventured out on our own and came back<br />

• Private Rooms<br />

• Free Room Rental<br />

• Wi-Fi<br />

• Murder Mysteries<br />

• Holiday Parties<br />

122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)<br />

519-679-9940<br />

Open Daily for Dinner<br />

www.marienbad.ca<br />

Lunch Monday–Saturday<br />

Tuscany, Wine & Cuisine<br />

8–18, 2015<br />

May 8–18, 2015<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

TOURS<br />

Accommodation for 7 nights at<br />

Villa Marta, located outside historic<br />

Lucca, and 2 nights in Rome.<br />

Group Host is Sommelier Bob Latham,<br />

instructor at the Stratford Wine School & Stratford Chefs School.<br />

Experience local wine, cuisine and renowned attractions in Lucca,<br />

Pisa, Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Rome and the gorgeous Tuscan<br />

countryside. Enjoy private wine & olive oil tastings, and wine pairings<br />

with most dinners. Limited to 20 passengers so please book early.<br />

For more information on this exciting tour, contact:<br />

Carlson Wagonlit Travel<br />

450 Columbia St. W. Unit 6, Waterloo ON<br />

1-800-267-9269<br />

email: waterloo@carlsonwagonlit.com<br />

www.cwtvacations.ca/waterloo TICO Registration 50020877


46 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

The hill town of Montalcino, in<br />

Tuscany is famous for its Brunello<br />

(one of Italy’s best-known and<br />

expensive wines)<br />

with exciting discoveries. One was the English<br />

Cemetery, where over half of the unique and<br />

decorative graves are occupied by members<br />

of the Anglo-Florentine community of the<br />

early 1800’s, including poet Elizabeth Barrett<br />

Browning and American sculptor Hiram<br />

Powers. Another was the incredible church<br />

and museum of Santa Croce, the burial<br />

place of Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli,<br />

Leonardo da Vinci and Galileo. I also enjoyed<br />

losing myself in a local<br />

Sunday afternoon antique<br />

flea market.<br />

After much gelato and<br />

many photographs of this<br />

Renaissance city, we moved<br />

on to the last leg of our<br />

incredible trip, Venice! One<br />

of the most interesting and<br />

lovely places in the world,<br />

this “open air museum”<br />

contains the world’s most<br />

artistic masterpieces per<br />

square kilometer. It was<br />

built on a marshy lagoon and is almost the<br />

same as it was six hundred years ago. Linked<br />

by over 450 bridges it provides delightful<br />

surprises at every turn. One of the highlights<br />

was a guided tour of Venice’s famous La<br />

Fenice Opera House, a renowned landmark<br />

in the history of Italian theatre. Like the<br />

phoenix for which it was named, it finally<br />

rose from the ashes for a third time in 2004.<br />

Restored to its former glory, it has since<br />

regained its status among the world’s top<br />

opera houses.<br />

Whether you partake in a gondola ride,<br />

visit one of the many cathedrals or galleries,<br />

or enjoy a cappuccino in St. Mark’s Square<br />

while watching the world go by, Venice is not<br />

to be missed. Whenever I visit I make a point<br />

of venturing away from the popular areas to<br />

discover the calm, beautiful, magical side<br />

of this city. Before long I find myself in a<br />

Venice with kids kicking a soccer ball around<br />

a deserted campo, and locals sitting in park<br />

benches chatting with their neighbors. I<br />

briefly close my eyes and take in the familiar<br />

aroma of fresh cappuccino coming from<br />

nearby cafés.<br />

That is how I feel most at home and<br />

deliriously lost in Italy!<br />

CLAUDIA VIANI is an avid traveller and has worked in<br />

the travel industry for over 35 years. She is a Director, Leisure<br />

Operations Canada, for Carlson Wagonlit Travel..<br />

Colourful buildings line the canal in Burano,<br />

an island in the Venetian Lagoon


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 47<br />

in the garden<br />

Decorating Outside-In<br />

Bring Nature Indoors for Outstanding Holiday Displays<br />

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN<br />

You might be surprised what you can find for<br />

holiday decorating in your own yard. Check<br />

it out now to survey the possibilities<br />

for when the time is right. Pour<br />

yourself a holiday drink to put you in the mood,<br />

and try to look at your outdoors with new eyes.<br />

Have two drinks and you will! Remember that<br />

using fresh means that it has a “shelf life” and by<br />

cutting your own you get the freshest!<br />

Any evergreen can work beautifully in holiday<br />

arrangements. Each has its own character and<br />

fragrance. Take advantage of your private source<br />

and design accordingly. Maybe something<br />

could use a little pruning? If so, wait until you’re<br />

ready to decorate before you prune.<br />

Twigs are very popular for winter arrangements<br />

and red osier dogwood is a favourite because of its<br />

perfect deep red colour. However, any twig with an<br />

interesting bark will give you a great look: birch,<br />

paperbark maple, willow, curly willow and kerria<br />

are all great choices. Look at your trees and shrubs<br />

without the leaves with this in mind, and again,<br />

maybe something needs a little pruning.<br />

If you have conifers in your garden, you have<br />

a source of cones. Spruce, pine and even the tiny<br />

cones on cedars are decorative. Cones can be<br />

arranged in a clear vase with berries added, or<br />

incorporated into arrangements for your table or<br />

outdoor urns and wreaths.<br />

Don’t worry if you don’t have your own, you can<br />

still be crafty by supporting locally sourced greens<br />

from markets and independent garden shops.<br />

Indoor Blooming Beauties!<br />

If you enjoy long-blooming flowers indoors in the<br />

winter months, they don’t get more rewarding than<br />

Amaryllis. Most are native to South Africa and are<br />

sold in the fall for us to enjoy, potted up indoors.<br />

The larger the bulb, the more blooms — the topsize<br />

bulbs often give you two to three stalks each with<br />

five to seven flowers per stalk — what a show!<br />

Planning is important as different varieties<br />

bloom at different times. There are a few varieties<br />

that will bloom for the holidays, but act fast as<br />

their bloom time is approximately six weeks from<br />

Winterberry on White Birch<br />

Holiday arrangement<br />

Red Osier Dogwood, Boxwood, Cedar cones<br />

Winterberry and Pine


48 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Beautiful indoor winter blooms — Amaryllis (left)<br />

is available in numerous colours and varieties, and<br />

Paperwhites (below left) offer a fresh spring scent.<br />

planting. These early bloomers come in crisp<br />

whites, cherry reds and combinations of the<br />

two — perfect for a holiday arrangement.<br />

Often they are planted singly, and can be<br />

placed anywhere, but a grouping of three<br />

or five in a large container makes a great<br />

feature centrepiece. For holiday bloomers,<br />

choose from some new arrivals this year:<br />

Vixen — a deep red; Comet — a white petal<br />

with red brush strokes; Blitzen — red petals<br />

with white accents; or Dancer — pure white<br />

petals with a green throat. Many other<br />

varieties are available that will bloom into<br />

the new year — perfect for winter enjoyment<br />

and for gift giving. There are more colours<br />

and variety options with the later bloomers.<br />

Colours such as chartreuse, deep red, pinks<br />

and lemon yellow are so welcome in the<br />

middle of winter. Later blooming choices<br />

also offer lush double petal varieties and<br />

novelty selections that are shorter and<br />

multi-flowering. They offer great value and<br />

last for weeks in bloom. For best and most<br />

reliable results, pot up your Amaryllis in a<br />

container with drainage, using fresh potting<br />

soil. Finish the pot with moss, cones or<br />

decorative stones.<br />

Paperwhites are another favourite for<br />

indoor arrangements as they are very easy to<br />

grow and produce a great show. Customers<br />

have commented lately their strategy for<br />

Paperwhites is to buy extra bulbs and pot up<br />

some now (approximately six weeks to bloom<br />

from planting). Store the extra bulbs in the<br />

crisper for planting into the new year. Many<br />

love the sweet fresh spring fragrance, but if<br />

you find the fragrance too strong, place your<br />

arrangement in your foyer or somewhere<br />

you’re not sitting — they can take the cool<br />

drafts of the door opening and closing.<br />

Paperwhites are typically not planted in<br />

soil. Using a dish or favourite container with<br />

no drainage, fill the bottom two to three<br />

inches with stones, pea gravel or glass beads,<br />

etc. Place the bulbs on the “stones” and top<br />

up with enough more stone to hold the bulbs<br />

in place (one inch). Fill with water to the<br />

bottom of the bulb and your work is done!<br />

Surprisingly, both Amaryllis and<br />

Paperwhites grow best in indirect light and<br />

away from any heat source, so they make an<br />

easy to grow, perfect houseplant.<br />

Using your garden as your private collection<br />

of holiday materials is both challenging and<br />

rewarding. You might be surprised with what<br />

you find and will very likely enjoy creating<br />

your own fresh arrangements. The Amaryllis<br />

and Paperwhites work well with fresh material<br />

for holiday decorating, as they give the<br />

complimentary textures and pop of colour.<br />

Enjoy your holiday decorating and have a<br />

happy holiday season.<br />

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own<br />

Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be<br />

found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays,<br />

and at various gardening events around the region.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 49<br />

wine<br />

Launching 2015 in Style<br />

The 10th Anniversary London Wine & Food Show<br />

SAMPLING OF THE FINEST CUISINE,<br />

CRAFT BEERS, SPIRITS AND WINES.<br />

By CECILIA BUY<br />

London is situated in one of the most<br />

agriculturally productive areas of<br />

farmland in Ontario, and for over<br />

a hundred and fifty years Western<br />

Fair has hosted fairs, competitions, sales<br />

and other events for farmers, producers and<br />

consumers from the surrounding region.<br />

About ten years ago the Agriplex was<br />

constructed specifically to host livestock<br />

shows and agricultural events in the<br />

Western Fair District.<br />

Around the same time, Londoners<br />

flocked to the first annual Wine &<br />

Food Show, a three-day event that<br />

celebrates the culinary life of Ontario.<br />

This coming January will see a very<br />

apt convergence of venue and event,<br />

when the 10th Annual Wine& Food<br />

Show is held in the newly refurbished<br />

Agriplex.<br />

Each successive year the Wine &<br />

Food Show has provided more visitors<br />

the opportunity to discover and enjoy<br />

more food and beverage products, and<br />

related businesses and services. The<br />

move to the Agriplex will offer a much<br />

larger space than the previous location<br />

(the combined Progress and Canada<br />

buildings). Upgrades to the electrical,<br />

heating/ventilation and air-conditioning<br />

systems, as well<br />

as improved<br />

food- and<br />

beveragerelated<br />

facilities<br />

will make<br />

the new venue more pleasurable January 15-17, for 2015 both<br />

THU 5PM–10:30PM | FRI 5PM–10:30PM | SAT NOON–10:30PM<br />

visitors and exhibitors.<br />

So, what exactly can you expect from this<br />

98%<br />

$<br />

10<br />

Plan on buying products<br />

showcased by exhibitors*<br />

would recommend<br />

98% this show to others* 89<br />

Celebrate the 10th anniversary of the London Wine & Food Show<br />

by expeiencing the event on opening night for only $10<br />

#LDNWineFood<br />

WesternFairDistrict<br />

@WesternFair<br />

Entertaining chefs, such as <strong>2014</strong> visitor Bob Blumer (above),<br />

cookbook author and TV “gastronaut,” attract appreciative<br />

audiences throughout the three-day event<br />

show? Advance tickets are twelve dollars.<br />

If you plan to taste (of course you plan to<br />

taste!) you’ll get ten sample coupons<br />

for ten dollars. (There is a couple’s<br />

package available). Exhibitors offer<br />

samples for varying numbers of<br />

coupons.<br />

Visit individual winemakers, brewers<br />

and distillers from across Ontario,<br />

as well as agents and international<br />

distributors. Check out booths where<br />

local and regional restaurateurs,<br />

caterers and hotels and inns offer<br />

The show presents dozens of unique<br />

opportunities to try something new<br />

*<strong>2014</strong> L


50 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

information,<br />

as well as food<br />

samples from<br />

their chefs.<br />

Discover artisanal<br />

cheeses,<br />

chocolates<br />

and pastries,<br />

organic foods,<br />

and locally<br />

roasted coffees.<br />

If you can think<br />

of a food or a<br />

beverage that<br />

is produced in<br />

Southwestern<br />

Ontario, you’ll<br />

The Cooking Stage presents demonstrations on cooking, food<br />

and wine pairing, and more<br />

probably find it at the Wine & Food Show —<br />

offered by the people who make it, bake it,<br />

or brew it, ready and willing to answer your<br />

questions.<br />

Have a taste (or a thirst) for knowledge?<br />

There are cooking stage presentations by<br />

chefs, mixologists and food producers.<br />

Take a seat to enjoy the action or get up<br />

close so you can be one of the lucky ones<br />

to get a sample of the finished dish. There<br />

are also demonstrations and sampling<br />

sessions for classic wine and cheese and<br />

other food pairings and tasting seminars on<br />

your favourite beverages: wines and beers,<br />

certainly, and perhaps even on bourbon<br />

or vodka. (Tasting seminars are free, and<br />

popular. So register when you arrive to make<br />

sure you have a place.)


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 51<br />

Sample coupons are the<br />

currency of the Wine<br />

& Food Show, allowing<br />

visitors to get a taste<br />

of the many food and<br />

beverage selections on<br />

offer.<br />

And because you’ll be having fun<br />

with all this tasting and discovering,<br />

you might decide to plan your<br />

next day trip, weekend road trip,<br />

or extended vacation, with the<br />

help of regional tourism or winery<br />

association representatives.<br />

The London Wine & Food Show<br />

has become one of the premier<br />

culinary events for both exhibitors<br />

and visitors. Don’t miss this one!<br />

The 10th Anniversary London<br />

Wine & Food Show<br />

Western Fair District, 900 King<br />

Street, London<br />

www.westernfairdistrict.com<br />

thursday january 15, 5–10:30pm<br />

friday, january 16, 5–10:30pm<br />

saturday, january 17, 12 noon–<br />

10:30pm<br />

Must be 19+ years to attend.<br />

CECILIA BUY is eatdrink’s Managing Editor<br />

featuring:<br />

an experience to savour ...<br />

casual fine dining<br />

world-inspired cuisine enhanced by<br />

local and seasonal ingredients<br />

private dining rooms for lunch & dinner<br />

NEW<br />

MENUS<br />

Crêpes and More • Fried Rice Delite<br />

Dominic’s Italian Eatery • Treats<br />

London’s Shawarma • Sushi N Sushi<br />

Daily Planet Café<br />

OPEN MON–SAT<br />

lunch & dinner<br />

523 richmond st.<br />

just N of the Grand Theatre<br />

519-850-1500<br />

blacktrumpet.ca


52 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

beer matters<br />

What to Give the Discerning<br />

Foam-Head Who Has Everything<br />

By THE MALT MONK<br />

As I pen this<br />

column, I<br />

still savour<br />

the afterglow<br />

of this autumn’s<br />

profusion of crafted<br />

seasonal brews — fresh<br />

piquant wet hop ales,<br />

spicy pumpkin ales,<br />

rich satisfying orange<br />

Marzens, warming<br />

amber harvest ales and the first of the big<br />

dark brews of the frigid quaffing season.<br />

Autumn <strong>2014</strong> saw the best selection of local<br />

and imported crafted seasonal brews that I<br />

can recall. It’s a great time to be a craft beer<br />

fan, with so much choice on tap at your local<br />

craft beer oasis.<br />

This column will be a shameless plug for<br />

gift shopping — mostly for those who have<br />

a special foam-head they want to buy for,<br />

but may be a bit unsure where to start. If you<br />

haven’t the requisite beer nerd knowledge<br />

to hunt down the exotic brews a manic<br />

beirophile craves, don’t stress — this is giftcertificate-at-his-favourite-watering-hole<br />

territory. Or you can shop the beer gift packs<br />

that appear at the LCBO. But, if you want to put<br />

something special under the tree, something<br />

that won’t fail to delight the most ardent<br />

beer lover, you can’t go wrong with specialty<br />

glassware, or unique/collectable bottle<br />

openers or other breweriana —signs, coasters,<br />

trays, mats, tap handles, etc.— all of which are<br />

prized collectables in brew nerd culture.<br />

Appropriate glassware is an essential part<br />

of the proper presentation and enjoyment<br />

of artisan-crafted beers. Yes, the different<br />

shapes of beer glasses have a purpose. This<br />

is so important that many world class beer<br />

cafés in Europe will not serve beer unless the<br />

proper glassware is available:<br />

Weizen Glass<br />

Design: Tall and slender, rounded out into a bulge at the top.<br />

Reason A nice thick cap which forms in the top bulb really<br />

increases the enjoyment of a wheat beer, holding in all<br />

those great spicy phenols and fruity esters — a<br />

full complement to an unfiltered hefeweizen’s<br />

taste. It also gives a visual show of the brew’s<br />

heading, effervescence and opaque coloring.<br />

Beer Styles: Weizen, Heffeweizen, Witbier,<br />

Weizenbock, Gose


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 53<br />

Pilsner Flute<br />

Design: Tall glass, slender, tapering at the bottom,<br />

sometimes with a stem.<br />

Reason: The height of the glass allows the beer to<br />

show off its colour and carbonation. A nice head<br />

can be built at the wider top opening, which will<br />

trap the floral-biscuity aroma of the beer while<br />

the bubbles spiral up from the bottom of the<br />

glass to feed the head.<br />

Beer Styles: Pilsner, Helles Lager, Maibock, Dampftbier,<br />

Steam Beer<br />

Stangen<br />

Design: 100 ml -200 ml straight-walled cylinder,<br />

usually thin glass. The name translates as “pole,”<br />

used in Cologne and Leipzig.<br />

Reason: Highlights the effervescence and aids in<br />

“quaffing” more than one beer.<br />

Beer Styles: Kolsch, Gosebier<br />

French Jelly Tumbler<br />

Design: Thick ribbed tumbler in 1 and ½ pints<br />

Reason: Originally used for making preserves,<br />

became the preferred glass for serving Belgian<br />

witbiers and lambics.<br />

Beer Styles: Witbier, Weissbier, Lambic<br />

Nonic (UK Pint)<br />

Design: Basically cylindrical, wider at the mouth than the<br />

bottom, with a slight bulge just below the rim.<br />

One of the most common beer glasses, with<br />

several European variations.<br />

Reason: Wide mouth allows proper amount of<br />

head to form. Glass won’t slip from hands when<br />

sweating because of the grip bulge. Easy to<br />

handle, stack and store.<br />

Beer Styles: Lager, Pale Ale, ESB, Mild Ale, IPA, Stout, Porter,<br />

Beer cocktails<br />

Dimpled Mug<br />

Design: Round and squat, thick sides, with a<br />

handle.<br />

Reason: Allows a large quantity of beer, with<br />

plenty of room for head. Sturdy enough for<br />

sliding down the bar and for toasting. Use<br />

handle to hold the beer without warming it. A<br />

quaffer’s delight.<br />

Beer Styles: Golden/Amber Ale, Lager, IPA, Porter, Bock,<br />

Stout, Cream Ale — any session beer.<br />

Stoneware Stein<br />

Design: From plain to elaborately decorated fired stone<br />

vessel — usually 1 liter, often with a hinged lid.<br />

Reason: Traditional Germanic beer vessel keeps<br />

beer cold, closed cap keeps head and beer<br />

fresh (and insects or other airborne objects<br />

out of your beer), hard to break.<br />

Beer Styles: Pale lagers, Marzens, Hellerbier,<br />

Edelhell, Altbier, Dunkel<br />

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Flute<br />

Design: Elegant and tall, resembling a champagne<br />

glass with a slightly shorter stem<br />

Reason: Presentation — allows the colours of the<br />

beer to tease the eye as the natural bubbles<br />

spiral up the sides, particularly lambic fruit beers.<br />

Design aids carbonation retention.<br />

Beer Styles: Lambic, Faro, Weizenbock, Saison,<br />

Printemps, bottle-conditioned sparkling brews<br />

Tulip/Thistle<br />

Design: The tulip glass has a bulbous body, supported by a<br />

stem. Narrows and then widens at the top. The<br />

Thistle’s bottom bulb more pronounced and is<br />

the only glass for scotch ales.<br />

Reason: Use stem to hold the beer without warming<br />

it. The mouth design promotes a nice hefty<br />

head, trapping delicious flavor within the beer,<br />

and holding its aromas close.<br />

Beer Styles: Scotch Ales, Pale Ale, Strong Ale, Old/Reserve<br />

ales, DIPA, Lambic, Gueuze<br />

Goblet/Chalice<br />

Design: Large heavy body, wide mouth opening, supported<br />

by a thick stem. Bottom walls of glass are thick,<br />

sometimes becoming thinner near the mouth.<br />

Reason: Traditional monastic ale vessel. Scores<br />

in the bottom of the glass allow continual<br />

carbonation, and often support up to two full<br />

inches of head.<br />

Beer Styles: Belgian IPA, Belgian Strong Dark Ale,<br />

Trappist, Dubbel, Tripel, Quadrupel, etc.<br />

Malt Monk’s Pick o’ the Month<br />

Despite the novelty name, Nickelbrook’s<br />

Pissed Off Pete’s Pumpkin Porter (limited<br />

availability, on tap only) is a<br />

seriously good, sturdy dark brew<br />

with a decent malt backbone<br />

and a spicy-roasty demeanor.<br />

It taps off a shimmering deep<br />

dark brown cola color with ruby<br />

highlights and holds its creamy<br />

off-white cap well. The aroma is<br />

big with roasty-cocoa, a very slight<br />

smokiness then highlighted with<br />

pumpkin pie spices (cinnamon,<br />

nutmeg, allspice, some cloves)<br />

plus a barely detectable musty<br />

herbaciousness mingling with the<br />

hop tones. The flavour is a delight<br />

with elements coming together<br />

on the palate in a well-managed amalgam,<br />

giving a great sense of enjoyment and<br />

comfort as it slowly goes a bit dry, in a clean<br />

roasty-zesty finish. Great brew with a goofy<br />

name — rebrand it and my money says it<br />

would be a popular seasonal in bottle or can.<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Snifter<br />

Design: The bottom bulges into a bowl shape,<br />

tapering into a narrow mouth, just as<br />

traditional cognac and brandy glasses.<br />

Reason: Head and aroma retention. Meant for<br />

refined beers with a strong bouquet aroma, to<br />

give nose access to these beers as they warm<br />

in the glass.<br />

Beer Styles: Barleywine, Strong Ale, Pale Ale, IPA, Eisbock,<br />

Double Stout, Robust Porter, Tripel, Quadrupel,<br />

Foot/Yard/Boot<br />

Design: Unique glassware for fun and beer games. The yard<br />

and foot glass are named for their height. Typically<br />

a long cylinder with a trumpet mouth bulging<br />

out into a bowl at the bottom. The boot glass<br />

resembles a boot, and is usually of thicker glass.<br />

Reason: The yard glass is mostly used for pub<br />

contests, to see who can drink the most beer<br />

the quickest. Legend has it this contest was<br />

developed by stagecoach drivers, who drank<br />

much in a hurry — a stand is needed for these.<br />

The boot glass owes its origins to a crafty general<br />

who bragged if his troops won he’d drink beer<br />

from a boot.<br />

Beer Styles: Usually mild or moderate session ales and lagers.<br />

Where to shop? Support your local retailers:<br />

www.bradshawscanada.com<br />

www.jillstable.ca<br />

www.kissthecookonline.com<br />

www.trimen.com (formerly Restaurant Equipment & Supply)<br />

Foam Watcher News<br />

Beer Lab Brewing Company is up and<br />

running in London. The business plan calls<br />

for small batch, barrel aged artisinal beers<br />

to be sold on tap solely at Milos’ Craft Beer<br />

Emporium. Beer Lab Brewing is a collective<br />

enterprise involving Adil Ahmid, Milos<br />

Kral (of Milos<br />

pub) and the<br />

“Denim Bros.”<br />

So far they<br />

have produced<br />

an interesting well-hopped pale utilizing<br />

Citra, Nelson Sauvin, and Mosaic hops<br />

called “Hellooooo Nurse,” a heavy session<br />

ale. Brown Porter and other great barreled<br />

offerings are in the conditioning stage.<br />

Capacity is small so the released brews are<br />

gobbled up quickly — best to keep informed<br />

when one goes on tap. There is a Facebook<br />

page for release info.<br />

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a<br />

passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in<br />

the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 55<br />

cookbooks<br />

Jamie’s Comfort Food<br />

Scrumptious Happy Classics<br />

By Jamie Oliver<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Jamie Oliver has made it his life’s<br />

work to make good food accessible<br />

to everyone. He’s made a meal in 15<br />

minutes, made it affordable, brought<br />

it to school lunches, brought it into<br />

communities, and had it prepared by at-risk<br />

youth. He has tried to reduce the risk of poor<br />

health due to lack of nutrition in at least two<br />

countries. There’s no doubt that he knows<br />

about food.<br />

In his latest book, Oliver brings us his<br />

take on the food that makes us feel fantastic.<br />

Jamie’s Comfort Food; Scrumptious Happy<br />

Classics isn’t about unusual ingredients<br />

or trendy techniques. It’s about making<br />

delicious food that fills you up physically<br />

and emotionally — and about making the<br />

best possible version of that food.<br />

These are the recipes you cook because you<br />

want to surprise your other half with a special<br />

meal, because you had a hard week and need<br />

some pampering, or because your friends<br />

are coming over to watch a game and have a<br />

few drinks. The ones you make because<br />

you got a promotion and want to<br />

celebrate. These are recipes for<br />

real life.<br />

I believe that the best<br />

cookbooks inspire readers<br />

with great photos,<br />

and this book delivers<br />

in spades. Every dish<br />

has at least one picture<br />

by award-winning photographer<br />

David Loftus<br />

and they all look amazing.<br />

There’s even a beautiful<br />

picture of porridge, something<br />

I would have thought<br />

impossible. To anyone who loves<br />

food, this book is worth the 40 bucks just<br />

for the photos.<br />

Oliver<br />

surrounds<br />

himself with a team of experts<br />

whose food-ninja skills shine through in this<br />

book. There’s a photo index with nutritional<br />

information to help you decide how the<br />

recipes fit into your lifestyle. Estimated<br />

preparation times make it easier to plan your<br />

meal and the index lets you know which<br />

recipes are suitable for vegetarian diets. All<br />

of this in a book which is not meant to be<br />

about dieting, time-saving or vegetarianism.<br />

It speaks to Jamie Oliver’s belief that food is<br />

a part of life, all the time and should always<br />

be just that simple.<br />

The biggest challenge in this review<br />

was deciding which recipes to try first. My<br />

husband was kind enough to make the Best<br />

Bun Cha Bowl, as he knows it’s one of my<br />

favourite weekend lunches. This<br />

version was very satisfying. I<br />

particularly like the shredded<br />

cabbage tossed with the<br />

tangy dressing. It was a<br />

nice kick among all the<br />

fresh vegetables. I’d<br />

probably skip the pork<br />

next time and double<br />

up on the shrimp. The<br />

beauty of this recipe<br />

Jamie Oliver is that it’s infinitely<br />

adaptable. If you like your<br />

food spicy, as we do, I’d<br />

suggest adding extra chiles<br />

to the dressing, or use your<br />

favourite hot sauce. A shot of Sriracha<br />

would make this just right.


56 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

The Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich is<br />

a new twist for me but I’ll use any excuse<br />

to make homemade bread. In this case a<br />

gorgeous focaccia was the perfect vehicle for<br />

the wonderfully messy eggplant parmigiana.<br />

I did scale back the recipe; the original was<br />

written to serve 16 people! It’s definitely on<br />

the menu the next time we have a bunch of<br />

people over.<br />

Anyone who has watched Jamie Oliver<br />

cook on TV is familiar with his fast-paced,<br />

high-energy style of talking. The recipes<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

read exactly the same way. You can almost<br />

hear him narrate the story of the food as you<br />

read. If the book has one flaw, it’s that all this<br />

wordiness makes the print tiny. It’s a small<br />

price to pay for such an inspiring cookbook.<br />

I hope my family isn’t reading this right now<br />

because for Christmas they are all getting a<br />

copy of Jamie’s Comfort Food.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in<br />

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes courtesy of Jamie’s Comfort Food; Scrumptious Happy Classics (Harper Collins Publishers Ltd; Sept <strong>2014</strong>; $38)<br />

Best Bun Cha Bowls<br />

Serves 4<br />

50 minutes<br />

539 calories<br />

1 large handful of shelled unsalted peanuts<br />

¼ of a green cabbage<br />

1 bunch of fresh mint (1 oz)<br />

½ a bunch of fresh basil (½ oz)<br />

4 scallions<br />

½ an iceberg lettuce<br />

7 oz bean sprouts (ready to eat)<br />

½ an English cucumber<br />

2 carrots<br />

5 oz vermicelli rice noodles<br />

8 large raw shell-on jumbo shrimp<br />

7 oz pork belly (skin removed)<br />

1 onion<br />

4 tablespoons hoisin sauce<br />

DRESSING<br />

3 fresh red chiles<br />

2 heaping tablespoons superfine sugar<br />

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar<br />

4 tablespoons fish sauce<br />

2 limes<br />

This is a Vietnamese classic from Hanoi —<br />

“bun” means fine noodle, “cha” means fatty<br />

pork — and it’s often served in markets at<br />

lunchtime when you’re allowed to grill on the<br />

street. It’s served cold in summer and hot in<br />

winter, so it’s a real all-year-round dish. The<br />

idea is to build your own bowl, choosing the<br />

combination of meat, herbs, and veggies that you<br />

fancy. I’ve paired pork belly with delicious sticky<br />

shrimp here, to give this version an extra edge.<br />

What we’re going to do is assemble a load of little<br />

bowls and plates of garnishes, but we’ll kick it off by<br />

making a big jam jar of dressing. Finely chop 2 chiles<br />

and place in a large clean jar with the sugar, vinegar,<br />

fish sauce, lime juice, and 1/3 cup of boiling water.<br />

Secure the lid and shake well until sugar is dissolved.<br />

Toss the peanuts in a frying pan, smash them<br />

up with a mortar and pestle, and place in a<br />

bowl. Very finely slice the cabbage (ideally on a<br />

mandolin — use the guard!) and scrunch well with<br />

4 tablespoons of the dressing and an extra swig<br />

of vinegar in a bowl. Pick the mint and basil leaves<br />

into bowls of cold water. Trim and finely slice the<br />

scallions and the remaining chile, shred the iceberg<br />

lettuce, and put it all on a little plate with the bean<br />

sprouts. Halve the cucumber lengthwise and seed


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

with a teaspoon, then finely slice (I like to use a<br />

crinkle-cut knife). Peel the carrots and grate into<br />

another bowl. Pour boiling water over the noodles,<br />

cover, and leave to soak for 5 minutes, or until soft,<br />

then drain and refresh under cold water.<br />

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Peel the shrimp, leaving the tails on, run your knife<br />

down the back, and pull out the veins, then run the<br />

knife down again to butterfly them. Chop the pork<br />

belly quite finely and fry in a hot pan until golden<br />

while you peel and finely slice the onion, then add<br />

it to the pan. Stir-fry for 5 minutes, then throw in<br />

the shrimp. Cook for a final couple of minutes, add<br />

the hoisin to glaze everything, and tip onto a plate.<br />

Place all your garnishes in the middle of the table<br />

with the jam jar dressing and four large serving<br />

bowls, and let everyone build their own exciting<br />

bun cha bowl.<br />

*Embrace the spirit of this recipe and<br />

tweak the ingredients to your liking. Grilled<br />

squid would be delicious, as would slices<br />

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Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Serves 16<br />

2 hours 40 minutes Plus Proofing<br />

476 Calories<br />

FOCACCIA<br />

1 x ¼-oz package of active dry yeast<br />

7 ½ cups strong bread flour, plus extra for<br />

dusting<br />

quality extra virgin olive oil<br />

PARMIGIANA<br />

8 medium eggplants<br />

7 oz stale bread<br />

7 oz Parmesan cheese<br />

8 cloves garlic<br />

1 bunch fresh basil (1 oz)<br />

olive oil<br />

1 teaspoon dried oregano<br />

1 ¼ cups red wine (Barbera d’Alba or d’Asti<br />

from Piedmont is perfection, or use a<br />

Valpolicella or Chianti)<br />

4 x 14-oz cans of plum tomatoes<br />

3 x 4-oz balls of mozzarella cheese<br />

8 oz arugula<br />

1 lemon<br />

Having a mouthful of this sandwich should be<br />

a human right. Eggplant parmigiana, which is<br />

a beautiful veggie side dish or main in its own<br />

right, is at the heart of this story but rammed<br />

into a soft light focaccia as a sarnie [sandwich]<br />

it’s a total game changer. It’s a great party<br />

food, especially at lunchtime with a delicious<br />

green salad and a few nice cold beers.<br />

Whisk the yeast into 2 ½ cups of tepid water<br />

and leave for 5 minutes. Put the flour and 1<br />

teaspoon of sea salt into a large bowl and create<br />

a well in the middle. Pour in the yeasty water and<br />

use a spoon to bring in the flour until it becomes<br />

too hard to mix, then bring it together with clean<br />

floured hands and knead for 5 minutes, or until<br />

elastic. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 hour,<br />

or until doubled in size. Knock back the dough,<br />

then push it into a large roasting pan (12 x 16<br />

inches). Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of extra virgin<br />

olive oil and poke it all over with your fingertips,<br />

right to the bottom. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,<br />

then leave until doubled in size again.<br />

While the bread is proofing, preheat the oven to<br />

350ºF. Slice the eggplants lengthwise into ¾-inchthick<br />

slices. Season generously with salt and leave<br />

to drain in a colander for 20 minutes. Tear the bread<br />

into a food processor and whiz to fine crumbs,<br />

sprinkle over a large baking sheet, and bake for 10<br />

minutes. Switch to the fine grater blade and whiz up<br />

the Parmesan. Peel the garlic and finely slice with<br />

the basil stalks, then fry in a large frying pan on a<br />

medium heat with a splash of olive oil and oregano<br />

until lightly golden. Pour in the wine, bring to a boil,<br />

and cook away, then squash in the tomatoes and<br />

add 1 can’s worth of water. Bring back to a boil, then<br />

simmer for 20 minutes. Wipe the eggplant slices<br />

with paper towels and fry them in a little olive oil in<br />

batches in a large frying pan on a high heat for a few<br />

minutes on each side, or until golden.<br />

Cover the base of a roasting pan (10 x 14 inches)<br />

with one-third of the eggplants, top with onethird<br />

each of the tomato sauce, basil leaves, bread<br />

crumbs, and Parmesan, then tear over a ball of<br />

mozzarella. Repeat twice, then drizzle with a little<br />

olive oil. Once the focaccia has doubled in size, very<br />

gently place it in the middle of the oven. Place the<br />

parmigiana at the bottom of the oven and cook<br />

both for 40 minutes, or until the focaccia is lightly<br />

golden and cooked through and the parmigiana<br />

is bubbling. When you remove the focaccia and<br />

parmigiana from the oven, drizzle the focaccia all<br />

over with at least another 4 tablespoons of olive oil<br />

and (this is important) leave the parmigiana to rest<br />

for 30 minutes. Divide them both up into portions<br />

and stuff the sandwiches, adding some lemondressed<br />

arugula. It’s messy, but awesome.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 59<br />

books<br />

Gift Ideas For Fiction-loving Foodies<br />

A selection of novels about chefs, food,<br />

restaurants, kitchens and cookbooks<br />

by DARIN COOK<br />

Most foodies are familiar with<br />

Anthony Bourdain’s irreverent<br />

look at the world of chefs from a<br />

nonfiction point of view, but they<br />

may not know he has also written a handful<br />

of novels with chefs as the protagonists. Bone<br />

in the Throat (1995) is one of three such<br />

works of fiction and, as with all of his novels,<br />

relies as much on criminality and corruption<br />

as it does cooking. Bourdain tends to have<br />

mobsters, wise guys, loan sharks, con men,<br />

and murderers mingling with waiters, chefs,<br />

bartenders, busboys, and dishwashers in the<br />

restaurant world.<br />

This story is about Chef Tommy following<br />

his culinary dreams in an attempt to<br />

escape from his binding family tree rooted<br />

in organized crime. Harvey, the owner<br />

of the restaurant where Tommy cooks,<br />

struggles to keep his business afloat in the<br />

competitive New York restaurant scene, but<br />

it doesn’t help that gangsters are continually<br />

surrounding him, to be paid at any cost.<br />

Amid the dark and<br />

macabre storyline,<br />

Bourdain never fails<br />

to describe in great<br />

detail the activity in<br />

a restaurant kitchen,<br />

because it is what he<br />

knows best. Having<br />

been in the thick of it<br />

himself, his words paint<br />

pictures of an active<br />

restaurant, as when<br />

describing Tommy de-boning and filleting a<br />

salmon before making a fish stock — it’s not<br />

integral to the plot, but an important portrait<br />

of what the character does on a regular basis<br />

to make him who he is.<br />

In The Cookbook Collector (2010), author<br />

Allegra Goodman introduces us to two<br />

sisters, Jess and Emily, surrounded by a cast<br />

of assorted characters caught up in some<br />

way in the newfound wealth in Silicon Valley<br />

during the Internet technology revolution.<br />

Unlike her sister, Jess is not attached directly<br />

to dot-com companies, but rather works in<br />

an antiquarian bookstore for George, who<br />

has been asked by elderly Sandra to appraise<br />

a cookbook collection for possible purchase.<br />

Crammed into the cabinets of her kitchen,<br />

Sandra has 837 volumes of valuable, leatherbound<br />

cookbooks in various languages.<br />

During the appraisal process, George and<br />

Jess come across handwritten notes, menus,<br />

clippings, poetry, and sketches in the pages<br />

of the cookbooks. George is interested in<br />

the collection for its aesthetic and historical<br />

value and intends to display them as a<br />

collection in a museum-like manner. Jess<br />

is charged with cataloguing the books; as<br />

she delves into her new job, she yearns to<br />

learn more about the<br />

original owner, who is<br />

not Sandra after all, as<br />

the layers of collectors<br />

attached to these<br />

cookbooks grows.<br />

There is a lot more to<br />

this story than perusing<br />

cookbooks, and the<br />

characters are peppered<br />

with a plethora of<br />

the complexities


60 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

and hardships that life can inflict. As Jess<br />

deals with personal tragedies and rocky<br />

relationships, the story behind the cookbooks<br />

leads her to a life she would never have<br />

predicted, and their antique recipes come in<br />

useful for a very special occasion.<br />

All things Chinese, including culinary traditions,<br />

are revealed through the eyes of Lindsey<br />

Owyang in The Dim Sum of All Things (2004)<br />

by Kim Wong Keltner. Raised in San Francisco,<br />

Lindsey generally scorns her ethnic heritage,<br />

but can’t get away from it at home, where<br />

her grandmother keeps recipes and customs<br />

from her homeland alive. Lindsey is also a<br />

closet meat-eater working as a receptionist<br />

for a vegan magazine, and we have to wonder<br />

where this incongruity will lead her.<br />

The plot mostly<br />

revolves around Lindsey’s<br />

obsession with a<br />

romantic interest in her<br />

office, and even though<br />

Chinese food is not<br />

pivotal to the story, it is<br />

always present as a main<br />

player, such as in Chinatown<br />

restaurants and lavish<br />

banquets with shark<br />

fin soup and Peking duck<br />

prepared in traditional Chinese style.<br />

The narrative of the story naturally reveals<br />

such Chinese eating customs as serving<br />

others first before taking food yourself. We<br />

learn about the traditional dishes of Chinese<br />

holidays, like neen-goh prepared specially<br />

for Chinese New Year, and mooncakes<br />

served during the autumn equinox. But even<br />

with Chinese culinary customs prevalent in<br />

her American household, Lindsey has her<br />

eyes opened further when she visits China<br />

with her grandmother. It is here that she<br />

learns that China is nothing like the pavilion<br />

at Disney World, and every meal was unlike<br />

Chinese food she had back home, except<br />

for some of those authentic dishes her<br />

grandmother recreated in their home.<br />

Many important discussions occur at a<br />

dinner table while communing over food,<br />

but as Dutch author Herman Koch reveals in<br />

The Dinner (2013), they are not always lighthearted<br />

and good-natured. Amid the hubbub<br />

of a fashionable restaurant in Amsterdam,<br />

Koch sets the stage for a horrific tragedy that<br />

links two couples. The tension between the<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

diners is palpable, but the reason for their<br />

meeting remains buried beneath polite<br />

dialogue and the perusing of menus.<br />

From appetizers to main course, the suspense<br />

builds during the<br />

progression of dinner,<br />

until dark secrets are<br />

revealed and the truth<br />

comes out during dessert.<br />

Between the delivery<br />

of meals and drinks,<br />

serious topics, family<br />

issues, and societal<br />

problems are discussed<br />

and chilling revelations<br />

that the couples share<br />

from their past are disclosed. The story is a<br />

thrilling page-turner, set amongst the normal<br />

but frenetic activity of a restaurant service.<br />

What starts out as an ordinary meal between<br />

friends evolves into a riveting and disturbing<br />

discovery wedged between the bookends of<br />

the aperitif and digestif.<br />

My Year of Meats (1998) by Ruth Ozeki introduces<br />

us to Jane Takagi-Little, a controversial<br />

documentarian working on an unusual project<br />

with a Japanese television station. Travelling<br />

across the United States, Jane shoots episodes<br />

of My American Wife which features a series of<br />

women preparing home-cooked meals, allowing<br />

Japanese audiences to witness “traditional<br />

family values symbolized by red meat in rural<br />

America.” The story is told through the eyes of<br />

two main women — Jane the filmmaker, and<br />

Akiko, a Japanese wife who dutifully watches<br />

the show and makes<br />

the recipes in her own<br />

kitchen.<br />

The meat company<br />

sponsoring the show<br />

continually reminds<br />

Jane that “Meat is the<br />

Message” so that rump<br />

roasts, briskets, baby<br />

back ribs, and T-bone<br />

steaks are front and<br />

centre for Japanese housewives to see on<br />

their screen. There is a dichotomy to this<br />

message, however; Akiko is told to make the<br />

red meat dishes from My American Wife to<br />

feel healthier and provide the nutrients to<br />

help along her attempts at pregnancy, but as<br />

a documentarian Jane discovers that some<br />

American feedlots and slaughterhouses don’t<br />

always follow the rules.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

The novel itself is a pseudo-documentary,<br />

disguised as fiction, full of social,<br />

environ men tal, medical, and personal issues<br />

that go far beyond cooking meat. Jane pushes<br />

the boundaries of her documentarian licence,<br />

but the meat company paying her bills has<br />

plenty to say about her indiscretions in trying<br />

to effect social change, rather than adhering<br />

to the mandate of advertising the cuts of meat<br />

on American dinner tables.<br />

Set on the island of Sicily, La Cucina (2000)<br />

by Lily Prior tells the story of Rosa Fiores<br />

living on her family farm in a time when<br />

siestas were taken to break up the day<br />

and pasta was made by hand in a way that<br />

sounds more like a leisurely pastime than<br />

kitchen drudgery. Rosa says “La cucina …<br />

has formed the backdrop to the lives of our<br />

family, the Fiores, as far back as, and further<br />

than, anyone can remember. This kitchen<br />

has witnessed our joys, griefs, births, deaths,<br />

nuptials, and fornications for hundreds of<br />

years.” An ancient, oak<br />

table is as central to the<br />

kitchen as the kitchen is<br />

to the house. This is the<br />

table on which Rosa was<br />

born when her mother<br />

started labour while<br />

making pasta one day.<br />

After the untimely,<br />

Mafia-related death of<br />

her first love, Rosa exiles<br />

herself to the kitchen<br />

to deal with lost love in what she calls her<br />

“culinary catharsis.” She finds solace in the<br />

kitchen by dabbling in endless food-making<br />

projects from the bounty of the farm —<br />

cheese making, pasta rolling, bread baking,<br />

vegetable pickling, fruit preserving, and<br />

livestock slaughter.<br />

After many years, a mysterious<br />

Englishman who is researching ancient<br />

Sicilian cookbooks appears at the library<br />

where she works and a budding romance<br />

relieves her of years of grief. After years of<br />

mourning, and plenty of hard work in the<br />

kitchen to please others with outstanding<br />

Italian food, Rosa finds out that some<br />

dreams do come true and redemption can<br />

be achieved.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and plays in<br />

Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and well-fed by<br />

visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Enjoy your holiday season<br />

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62 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

theatre<br />

On The Boards<br />

Holiday Theatre Offerings<br />

By RICK YOUNG<br />

This is my first On the Boards<br />

column for eatdrink magazine.<br />

I will be writing about all things<br />

related to the myriad of regional<br />

professional and amateur theatre companies<br />

in the London area.<br />

Some of you may know me as Richard<br />

Young, the former publisher/managing editor<br />

of The Beat Magazine, an independent print<br />

and online arts publication that covered the<br />

local arts scene from 2009 until <strong>2014</strong>. I am a<br />

retired secondary school History and English<br />

teacher, professional musician, freelance<br />

writer — and avid theatre patron.<br />

A smorgasbord of theatre ...<br />

As the holiday season approaches, there is<br />

a smorgasbord of regional theatre offerings,<br />

with something for everyone and every age.<br />

So let’s take a look at what’s on the boards.<br />

The Grand Theatre<br />

(www.grandtheatre.com),<br />

offers up Shrek the Musical<br />

on its main stage from<br />

<strong>November</strong> 19–<strong>December</strong><br />

28. Sure to please parents<br />

and children alike, the production<br />

is based on the highly popular<br />

2001 animated feature film. Downstairs in<br />

the more intimate McManus Theatre, the<br />

Western Department of English presents Dr.<br />

Faustus, <strong>November</strong> 5–8 while Mark Kileen’s<br />

By The Book Theatre presents A Few Good<br />

Men <strong>November</strong> 25–<strong>December</strong> 6,<br />

a courtroom drama made famous<br />

by actor Jack Nicholson’s infamous<br />

line, “You can’t handle the truth” in<br />

the 1992 movie.<br />

In the heart of the Old East Village<br />

Entertainment District, the<br />

Palace Theatre (www.palacetheatre.<br />

ca) offers up the classic Broadway<br />

musical Mame, directed by John Gerry and<br />

starring Deborah Mitchell in the lead role,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 4–14. Gerry promises a leaner,<br />

Before I begin with my preview of holiday<br />

theatre offerings, I want to acknowledge the<br />

fine work of my eatdrink predecessor, Donald<br />

D’Haene, in covering the local theatre scene<br />

and for all of the selfless contributions he has<br />

made to raising public awareness of the efforts<br />

of local thespians in The Beat<br />

Magazine, his website DISHing<br />

with Donald and through The Beat<br />

DISH Awards which he staged for<br />

4 years. His columns and reviews<br />

were always entertaining and<br />

enlightening — and a tad irreverent, as only<br />

Donald can be. Thanks Donald!<br />

pared down interpretation of the musical<br />

which will feature two baby grand pianos<br />

on the stage. In the smaller Procunier Hall,<br />

Donald D’Haene and Dave Semple present<br />

the two-man show Hosanna, Michel<br />

Tremblay’s raw depiction<br />

of love between a<br />

transsexual drag queen<br />

and a homosexual biker<br />

<strong>November</strong> 6–15.<br />

“The love story makes the story<br />

universal,” says Donald D’Haene, who<br />

plays the drag queen. “Tremblay depicts characters<br />

we rarely see on the London stage.”<br />

D’Haene is thrilled to be back on stage.<br />

“Besides being the role and challenge of a<br />

lifetime, when you’re ‘dancing’ on stage with<br />

an actor as brave, open and honest<br />

as Dave Semple, it certainly raises<br />

your game. Dancing with someone<br />

you trust makes the process<br />

indescribable.”<br />

The ARTS Project (www.artsproject.ca)<br />

presents Jayson McDonald’s<br />

detective fantasy The City That<br />

Eats You, featuring Meghan Brown<br />

and Valerie Cotic, <strong>November</strong> 5–8, while Neil<br />

Simon’s Fools is brought to the stage by The<br />

King’s Players <strong>November</strong> 27–29.


SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />

11am−2pm<br />

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

London’s Original Kids Theatre Company<br />

(originalkids.ca) offers up several productions<br />

including Crazytown <strong>November</strong> 7-9; Disney’s<br />

Winnie the Pooh for Kids <strong>November</strong> 13 to 16;<br />

Bye Birdie Young Performer’s Edition <strong>November</strong><br />

20-23; Shout The Mod Musical <strong>November</strong><br />

27-30; The Wedding Singer <strong>December</strong> 4-7; The<br />

King & I <strong>December</strong> 12-21; capped off by the<br />

perennial family favourite A Charlie Brown<br />

Christmas <strong>December</strong> 13 and 14. Tickets for<br />

OKTC productions tend to sell out quickly, so<br />

get yours early to avoid disappointment.<br />

Moving outside of London, we drop in on<br />

the Elgin Theatre Guild (www.elgintheatreguild.ca)<br />

which is presenting James Barry’s<br />

Snow White and The 7 Dwarfs done up in<br />

British pantomime or panto style <strong>December</strong><br />

4–14. For the uninitiated, panto is a participatory<br />

style of musical comedy designed<br />

specifically for family entertainment and<br />

usually performed during the Christmas<br />

season. Audience members are encouraged<br />

to sing along and to shout out responses to<br />

the performers. Perfect fare for families this<br />

holiday season.<br />

Stratford’s Alternative Theatre Works’<br />

(alternativetheatreworks.com) holiday<br />

season production is A Wind in the Willows<br />

Christmas<br />

which runs<br />

<strong>December</strong><br />

18–30 at the<br />

Stratford Masonic Concert Hall.<br />

Theatre Woodstock (www.theatrewoodstock.com)<br />

brings Rogers & Hammerstein’s<br />

South Pacific with its legendary score featuring<br />

songs like “Some Enchanted Evening,”<br />

“I’m Gonna Wash That Man Right Outa My<br />

Hair” and others to The Market Centre Theatre<br />

<strong>November</strong> 27–30 and <strong>December</strong> 3–6.<br />

Over in Theatre Tillsonburg’s Otter Valley<br />

Playhouse (www.theatretillsonburg.com),<br />

theatre-goers can catch the British farce<br />

Sex Please, We’re Sixty, <strong>November</strong> 6–9 and<br />

<strong>November</strong> 13–16.<br />

In a nutshell, there is a rich selection of<br />

live theatre on the boards in our area this<br />

holiday season, and much of it is family fare.<br />

Get out and support your local artists!<br />

RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local,<br />

regional and national print and online publications, was the<br />

Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine,<br />

an independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to <strong>2014</strong>.


№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

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66 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

music<br />

Sound Bites<br />

Seasonal Treats<br />

By NICOLE LAIDLER<br />

<strong>November</strong> is a busy month at<br />

Western University’s Don<br />

Wright Faculty of Music. The<br />

faculty’s Symphony Orchestra<br />

takes to the stage of the Paul Davenport<br />

Theatre, <strong>November</strong> 13 and 14, with an<br />

ambitious program that includes Richard<br />

Strauss’ symphonic poem, Death and<br />

Transfiguration. “It’s very beautiful music<br />

about the last moments of somebody’s life,”<br />

says conductor Alain Trudel.<br />

The concert also showcases the talents of<br />

two young concerto contest winners, with<br />

pianist Natalia Skomorokhova performing<br />

the first movement of Beethoven’s<br />

“Emperor” Piano Concerto No. 5, and<br />

saxophonist Mathew Henry playing Jacques<br />

Ibert’s Concertino da Camera.<br />

Western Music will present two one-act French operas by<br />

Maurice Ravel <strong>November</strong> 21–23 at the university’s Paul<br />

Davenport Theatre<br />

Next up is an operatic double-bill, featuring<br />

Maurice Ravel’s L’heure espagnole (The<br />

Spanish Hour) and L’enfant et les sortilèges<br />

(The Child and the Magic), <strong>November</strong> 21<br />

to 23. Both one-act operas are directed<br />

by Michael Cavanagh, and performed by<br />

students in the faculty’s prestigious voice<br />

program. First performed in 1911, L’heure<br />

espagnole is a musical comedy set in a clockmaker’s<br />

workshop in Toledo, Spain. L’enfant<br />

et les sortilèges had its debut in Monte<br />

Carlo in 1925, although Ravel began writing<br />

the score in 1917. The plot unfolds like an<br />

early 20th-century “Toy Story” as playroom<br />

objects come to life<br />

and teach a mischievous<br />

boy a lesson<br />

he won’t soon<br />

forget.<br />

“The music<br />

is outrageously<br />

difficult for the orchestra and<br />

the singers,” says Trudel. “The students are<br />

very courageous.” www.music.uwo.ca<br />

Handel’s Messiah is the gift that keeps on giving.<br />

Despite being debuted in April, it is now<br />

a Christmas tradition and most performances<br />

play to a packed house, bringing good cheer to<br />

the audience as well as the box office.<br />

This season, Orchestra London gives<br />

the popular oratorio the Tafelmusik-touch<br />

under the baton of Ivars Taurins,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 3 at St. Paul’s Cathedral.<br />

The orchestra also serves up some<br />

lighter holiday fare at Centennial Hall,<br />

with a “Christmas Pops” concert for the<br />

whole family (<strong>December</strong> 7) and “A Very<br />

Elvis Christmas” (<strong>December</strong> 12 and 13)<br />

featuring award-winning Elvis tribute<br />

artist, Stephen Kabakos.<br />

www.orchestralondon.ca<br />

Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol is<br />

another staple of the season. This year,<br />

two productions give the Victorian classic a<br />

decidedly musical twist.<br />

More than one thousand people are<br />

expected to deck Centennial Hall on<br />

<strong>December</strong> 10 for the Unity Project’s 7th<br />

annual Christmas Carol fundraiser. The<br />

pay-what-you-can event features dramatic<br />

readings by prominent London lawyers,<br />

with musical accompaniment provided by<br />

Orchestra London, The London Singers and<br />

H.B. Beal Singers.<br />

“Our production of A Christmas Carol carries<br />

on Charles Dickens’ own tradition,” notes<br />

Sylvia Langer, development manager of the


Celebrate the Holidays<br />

A NUTCRACKER CHRISTMAS<br />

Nov. 29 / 7:30 pm<br />

Amabile Choirs join the orchestra for Festive<br />

classics: The Nutcracker by Tchaikovsky and<br />

Hansel und Gretal by Humperdinck.<br />

HANDEL’S MESSIAH<br />

Dec. 3 / 7:30 pm<br />

Ivars Taurins conducts the ever-popular<br />

Orchestra London tradition featuring the<br />

London Pro Musica choir.<br />

FAMILY CHRISTMAS<br />

POPS<br />

Dec. 7 / 2:30 pm<br />

Bring the whole family and join Brian<br />

Jackson for our seasonal favourite.<br />

A VERY ELVIS<br />

CHRISTMAS<br />

Dec. 12 & 13 / 8:00 pm<br />

Elvis Impersonator Stephen Kabakos’<br />

remarkably authentic performance will<br />

create an unforgettable holiday journey.<br />

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY! orchestralondon.ca 519-679-8778


68 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

John D. Huston will perform<br />

his acclaimed one-man performance<br />

of A Christmas Carol on<br />

<strong>December</strong> 21 at Aeolian Hall<br />

Unity Project for<br />

Relief of Homelessness<br />

in<br />

London. Langer<br />

explains that<br />

Dickens presented<br />

dramatic<br />

readings of his<br />

popular ghost<br />

story, donating<br />

all proceeds<br />

to local charities<br />

for the<br />

poor. www.<br />

unityproject.ca<br />

Those looking<br />

for a more<br />

intimate Dickens<br />

experience<br />

may be interested<br />

in John<br />

D. Huston’s acclaimed one-man performance<br />

of A Christmas Carol, <strong>December</strong> 21 at Aeolian<br />

Hall. The afternoon show will feature the<br />

sounds of London’s 20-member Wassail Choir<br />

singing Dickensian carols in period costume.<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

“It’s always a treat for me to perform in an<br />

appropriately Victorian environment, and the<br />

1882 built Aeolian Hall really fits the bill,” says<br />

Huston on his website. “The hall’s renowned<br />

acoustics should make this the intimate<br />

theatrical experience that Dickens strove to<br />

bring his audiences.” www.aeolianhall.ca<br />

Tenor Ross Mortimer, mezzo-soprano<br />

Amanda Perrera and collaborative pianist<br />

Denis Jung return to the Aeolian stage for<br />

their second annual Carols by Candlelight,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 18.<br />

“After last year’s sold out evening, we<br />

hope to once again share our joy and fill<br />

the audience with the holiday spirit,” says<br />

Mortimer. The trio will perform everything<br />

from popular Christmas carols to wellknown<br />

Gospel selections, with a bit of opera<br />

thrown in for good measure.<br />

“There are such deep-rooted traditions<br />

and emotions that come with each<br />

Christmas song. It’s amazing when people<br />

come up to you after a concert and share<br />

their unique experiences of the music we<br />

just performed,” Mortimer says.<br />

Book now<br />

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№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

A portion of the evening’s proceeds will<br />

support The Unity Project for Relief of Homelessness<br />

in London. www.aeolianhall.ca<br />

The New Year kicks off January 10 at Wolf<br />

Performance Hall with a chamber music<br />

concert featuring six well-known London<br />

musicians — Ian Franklin, oboe, Mary Beth<br />

Brown, violin, Sharon Wei, viola, Jeremy<br />

Hake, cello, Josh Grunmann, piano, and Ron<br />

George, French horn.<br />

The concert is the brainchild of Renée<br />

Silberman, director of Serenata Music. “I<br />

always like to support and promote local<br />

talent,” she says.<br />

Mozart’s Quartet for Oboe and Strings<br />

is likely the most familiar musical territory<br />

covered by the diverse group, who will perform<br />

in various combinations. “The idea is to bring<br />

very colourful music out of the mothballs,”<br />

says Silberman. www.serenatamusic.com<br />

NICOLE LAIDLER is a musician-turned-writer and the<br />

owner of Spilled Ink Writing & Wordsmithing. Visit her at<br />

spilledink.ca<br />

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Whether you are looking for a farm-to-table meal featuring<br />

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Visit our office at 123 King Street to pick up your copy.<br />

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70 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 50 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

the lighter side<br />

The Not So Family Christmas<br />

By DAVID CHAPMAN<br />

Let me say right away that I had a<br />

wonderful childhood. I loved my<br />

parents and sisters (most of the<br />

time) and apart from the incident<br />

with the shoe polish, have a lot of great<br />

memories. That incident occurred one year<br />

around Christmas. We, as a family, were<br />

getting ready to go to the pantomime<br />

— a great British tradition<br />

of theatre mixed with<br />

slapstick. The male<br />

actors would dress as<br />

females and vice versa.<br />

There would be much<br />

silliness, as only the British<br />

can do. This particular<br />

production was Dick Whittington,<br />

a perennial favourite at Christmas.<br />

Of course, we all had to wear our<br />

best outfits and polish our shoes. This<br />

was where the problem arose. While<br />

polishing my shoes I got some on the soles!<br />

I proceeded to walk all through the house,<br />

leaving in my wake a trail of black shoe<br />

polish. My mother was not impressed and<br />

I received what is commonly called a thick<br />

ear. The shoes did look great though.<br />

Another great Christmas memory<br />

involves my first working one. To many<br />

people, being obliged to work nights and<br />

holidays is something negative. But I<br />

thought: This means I am an adult, a man<br />

of the world! (a very small one mind you).<br />

Somehow it was exciting to be finishing<br />

work at 9 p.m., when everyone else was<br />

probably in bed. (Lisburn was a pretty<br />

boring town). So the thought of working<br />

Christmas was appealing.<br />

I still have the menu from that<br />

Christmas Day in 1965. For the<br />

grand sum of 27 shillings and<br />

sixpence one would enjoy a<br />

four-course dinner, with all<br />

the trimmings (to save you<br />

having to google what the<br />

heck 27/6 is, it would be<br />

about four dollars). There<br />

was consommé, roast<br />

turkey with gammon (you<br />

can google that), chestnut<br />

stuffing, and of course,<br />

Christmas pudding. The<br />

menu was signed by the<br />

chef with a personal note thanking me<br />

for my good work. At least I thought it was<br />

personal, until I found out that everyone<br />

got the same acknowledgement.<br />

The nicest part of working that<br />

Christmas, though, was that I could open<br />

presents when I got home, and all the<br />

relatives had left.<br />

DAVID CHAPMAN has been a creative and respected<br />

fixture on the London restaurant scene for over 20 years. He is<br />

the proprietor of David’s Bistro. (www.davidsbistro.ca)<br />

London’s Celebration Destination<br />

31<br />

New Wine List!<br />

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Delicious gift ideas<br />

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Select from over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics.<br />

Sample the freshest oils from across the globe, paired<br />

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SAMPLING OF THE FINEST CUISINE,<br />

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THU 5PM–10:30PM | FRI 5PM–10:30PM | SAT NOON–10:30PM<br />

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WesternFairDistrict<br />

@WesternFair

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