Times of the Islands Spring 2017
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING <strong>2017</strong> NO. 118<br />
ISLANDS<br />
ISLAND LIFE<br />
Is it for You?<br />
A TOUGH ROW TO HOE<br />
TCI Farming<br />
TURK’S HEAD ON TAP<br />
Brewery Open for Tours
AT<br />
A luxury condo and villa resort community<br />
The Perfect Combination...<br />
The privacy <strong>of</strong> a luxury villa<br />
The convenience <strong>of</strong> a penthouse<br />
• Located on exclusive Long Bay Beach<br />
• The security <strong>of</strong> a full service resort<br />
• Full access to resort amenities<br />
• The opportunity to earn rental<br />
Villa<br />
income<br />
Frontage<br />
A “10 Best Island Beaches Around <strong>the</strong> World”<br />
- Condé Nast Travellers List<br />
www.TheShoreClubTC.com<br />
“Future Location <strong>of</strong> Villas”<br />
Award winning developer <strong>of</strong> luxury<br />
beachfront condos for over a decade.
THE SANDALS ®<br />
OF TOMORROW.<br />
T<br />
LIVE<br />
ON THE<br />
EDGE<br />
DAY.<br />
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VACATION<br />
Sandals LaSource Grenada Resort & Spa goes beyond <strong>the</strong> unexpected to<br />
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romantic suites with discreetly private Tranquility Soaking Tubs for two on balconies<br />
and patios. There are unlimited land and water sports—including scuba diving<br />
for certified divers—plus six bars serving premium spirits and wines as well<br />
as 5-Star Global Gourmet dining at 10 outstanding restaurants, including <strong>the</strong><br />
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*Visit www.sandals.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandsspring<strong>2017</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.
contents<br />
Departments<br />
6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
13 Unsung Heroes<br />
Paul Stephenson Higgs Sr.<br />
By Dr. Carlton Mills<br />
50 Island Hopping<br />
Valentine’s Day Surprise<br />
Story & Photos By Katie Gutteridge<br />
59 Resort Report<br />
Blue Haven Resort<br />
By Kathryn Brown<br />
72 Food for Thought<br />
Brewed in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
Story & Photos By Kathy Borsuk<br />
77 Shape Up<br />
Chocolate, Grapes and Your Heart<br />
By Tamika Handfield<br />
78 Did You Miss Something?<br />
By Meelike Mitt<br />
79 Faces & Places<br />
Colour Run<br />
By Claire Parrish<br />
Photos By Le Mens Welch, Caya Hico Media<br />
80 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
85 Where to Stay<br />
87 Dining Out<br />
89 Subscription Form<br />
90 Classified Ads<br />
Features<br />
20 Living <strong>the</strong> Dream<br />
By Ben Stubenberg ~ Photos By Marta Morton<br />
40 A Tough Roe to How<br />
By Jody Rathgeb<br />
46 Pre-Summer Looks from Emerald <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Fashion By Jeritt Williams<br />
Photos By Ora Hasenfratz<br />
54 A Warm Welcome: Blue Haven Marina<br />
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy Blue Haven<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING <strong>2017</strong> NO. 118<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
Marta Morton travels around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos taking<br />
photographs when she is not busy as <strong>the</strong> owner<br />
<strong>of</strong> Harbour Club Villas. Marta shot this photo on <strong>the</strong><br />
magical island <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay and it is one <strong>of</strong> her favorites.<br />
She says, “Here you see St. John’s Anglican Church,<br />
built in <strong>the</strong> early 1800s, with reflections in <strong>the</strong> salt<br />
pond waters. The foreground is filled with <strong>the</strong> endemic<br />
National Flower Turks & Caicos Hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) in full bloom. I’d never seen this rare plant<br />
before, so I took hundreds <strong>of</strong> photos.” To see more <strong>of</strong><br />
Marta’s work, visit www.myturksandcaicosblog.com.<br />
Astrolabe<br />
62 The French Connection<br />
By John de Bry<br />
67 Remembering Sherlin Williams<br />
Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith<br />
79<br />
Green Pages<br />
31 A Rare “Snowbird” Returns<br />
Photos By Eric F. Salamanca<br />
34 In Safe Hands<br />
Story & Photos By Amy Avenant<br />
36 Two Kews<br />
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco<br />
LE MENS (LI) WELCH—CAYA HICO MEIDA<br />
4 www.timespub.tc
THE COOL SIDE<br />
OF CLASSIC<br />
The Palms may totally inhabit <strong>the</strong> role <strong>of</strong><br />
an elegant, luxurious, award-winning resort,<br />
but beneath that cultivated exterior beats<br />
an untamed heart. Parallel23 sprinkles every<br />
dish with a dash <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unexpected. 72˚West<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers you <strong>the</strong> moon and <strong>the</strong> stars. Whimsy<br />
rules at The Palms Courtyard Shops featuring<br />
T H E S P A<br />
W I S H<br />
P A R A L L E L 2 3<br />
7 2˚W E S T<br />
Wish Boutique. And your senses are<br />
utterly seduced at The Spa at The Palms.<br />
Feel free to visit and indulge your inner wild<br />
child in all we have to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
649.946.8666 | <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />
L A ID -BAC K LU X E
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
LISA ADARA PHOTOGRAPHY—WWW.LISAADARAPHOTO.COM<br />
This o<strong>the</strong>r-worldly photo taken on Leeward Beach in early winter is an example <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> remarkable work done by resident photographer Lisa<br />
Adara (lisaadaraphoto.com). She was also responsible for <strong>the</strong> photos <strong>of</strong> North and Middle Caicos mistakenly credited to Paradise Photography<br />
in our last issue’s feature, “Changing Faces.” Thank you for your contributions, Lisa, and please forgive this editor’s error!<br />
The Soul <strong>of</strong> a Place<br />
As someone who has lived and worked in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> for 24 years, I wholeheartedly agree with Ben<br />
Stubenberg’s comment, “There is a soul to <strong>the</strong> way <strong>of</strong> life <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos Islanders” and, like him, I never tire <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> place. Ben has contributed a comprehensive article, “Living <strong>the</strong> Dream,” on <strong>the</strong> realities <strong>of</strong> picking up and moving<br />
to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. I also concur that if you don’t sense <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ “soul” in your bones after spending time among TCI<br />
people and places, this probably is not <strong>the</strong> place for a long-term commitment.<br />
To <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> my limited ability, and relying extensively on our valuable contributors, we try to distill that soul<br />
within <strong>the</strong> pages <strong>of</strong> this magazine. And people who don’t get it, probably don’t read or enjoy <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
But if <strong>the</strong> spirit <strong>of</strong> this endearing place vibrates in your heart, you’ll probably be fascinated to learn about Paul Higgs,<br />
one <strong>of</strong> TCI’s earliest politicians; mourn <strong>the</strong> passing <strong>of</strong> photographer/graphic artist extraordinare Sherlin Williams;<br />
bewail <strong>the</strong> plight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Piping Plover. Jody Rathgeb’s intriguing essay on TCI farmers will encourage you to seek out<br />
local produce. The clothing designs <strong>of</strong> North Caicos native Jeritt Williams, presented in a series <strong>of</strong> breathtaking photos<br />
shot at <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Junkanoo Museum, will leave you awestruck at his talent. And you’ll look forward to<br />
investigating <strong>the</strong> corners <strong>of</strong> Provo to search out Blue Haven Marina and <strong>the</strong> Turk’s Head Brewery. Ben’s observation<br />
that living in TCI “requires essential qualities <strong>of</strong> tolerance, empathy, patience, humility, and respect” seems to me to<br />
be a recipe for peace and a utopian community anywhere in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
Turks And Caicos<br />
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
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Parrot Cay Beachfront<br />
New to <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos real estate market<br />
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US$6,000,000<br />
Long Bay Beachfront<br />
This is a rare opportunity to own over 2 Acres <strong>of</strong><br />
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multiple villas or a micro resort to cater to kite-boarders.<br />
US$2,650,000<br />
Bernadette Hunt<br />
cell ~ 649 231 4029 | tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Bernadette relocated from Ireland to <strong>the</strong><br />
Turksand Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in 1996 and worked<br />
as anAttorney for more than 10 years. After<br />
retiringfrom <strong>the</strong> practice she focused exclusively<br />
onwhat was already a successful real estate<br />
business that she co-founded in 2000.<br />
Long Bay House<br />
Long Bay House is a unique 8,500 sq. ft. 6 bed/ 6<br />
and a half bath beachfront estate, situated on over 2<br />
Acres and set amidst Providenciales’ most luxurious<br />
beachfront properties in Long Bay. The villa has<br />
been beautifully landscaped and features over 157 ft.<br />
<strong>of</strong> coveted white sandy beach to enjoy with endless<br />
turquoise ocean views.<br />
US$7,900,000<br />
Mandalay Villa<br />
Mandalay is a 11,073 sq. ft. estate on sought after<br />
Long Bay beach that sets <strong>the</strong> standard for luxurious<br />
living in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Carefully designed to<br />
embrace an indoor-outdoor lifestyle on over 2 Acres<br />
with 150 ft. <strong>of</strong> beach frontage. Featuring extravagant<br />
finishes, furnishings and ultra-modern technology<br />
throughout. There’s nothing like it!<br />
US$11,500,000<br />
Based on independent MLS figures she has<br />
active sales exceeding US$200M and her<br />
gross transaction numbers are unrivaled. This<br />
proven level <strong>of</strong> efficiency, experience and up<br />
to <strong>the</strong> minute information provides a platform<br />
for quality service that you can count on.<br />
Turks and Caicos Property is now <strong>the</strong> leading<br />
independent real estate brokerage in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at 103<br />
Ocean Club West Plaza and Ocean Club West<br />
Resort. Bernadette’s reputation and success has<br />
been earned over time through <strong>the</strong> dedication,<br />
enthusiasm and consistent performance <strong>of</strong> her<br />
and her team.<br />
Her personal experience with owning a number<br />
<strong>of</strong> properties on island and having renovated<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, means she is wellplaced to<br />
advise her customers and developers on what<br />
to anticipate in <strong>the</strong> construction process.<br />
Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real estate<br />
industry and her humor and energy make her a<br />
pleasure to work with.<br />
Villa Renaissance<br />
Penthouse 403 at Villa Renaissance on Grace Bay<br />
beach is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most attractive 2 bed beachfront<br />
condos currently listed for sale. It is beautifully<br />
furnished and decorated throughout. The interior<br />
is bright due to <strong>the</strong> vaulted ceilings and open<br />
floor plan, creating a comfortable and residential feel.<br />
The Palms Turks & Caicos<br />
This stunning beachfront 2 bedroom condo with<br />
studio “lockout” option is located on <strong>the</strong> second<br />
floor at <strong>the</strong> Palms Turks & Caicos. The spacious<br />
luxury suite has been meticulously maintained by<br />
<strong>the</strong> current owners and upgraded with a number <strong>of</strong><br />
custom features enhancing this spectacular property.<br />
Call Bernadette if you would like to find out a<br />
little more about owning real estate in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
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RASHAWDESIGNS.com<br />
TIMES<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, Kathryn Brown, Simon Busuttil,<br />
Marta Calosso, John Claydon, Luc Clerveaux, John de Bry,<br />
Elise Elliot-Smith, Katie Gutteridge, Tamika Handfield,<br />
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Sidney Maddock, B Naqqi Manco,<br />
Dr. Carlton Mills, Meelike Mitt, Claire Parrish,<br />
Jody Rathgeb, Eric F. Salamanca, Pat Saxton, Caleb Spiegel,<br />
Ben Stubenberg, Craig Watson, Kathleen Wood.<br />
Love your home<br />
AWARD-WINNING CUSTOM HOME DESIGN<br />
Award-winning architecture firm RA Shaw Designs<br />
has created some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most sophisticated and<br />
technologically advanced luxury properties<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Recently voted<br />
“The Best Architecture & Design<br />
Company <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year”<br />
for <strong>the</strong> second consecutive year by Caribbean<br />
World Magazine, our team specializes in creating<br />
a unique sense <strong>of</strong> place by integrating building<br />
techniques and architectural details with <strong>the</strong><br />
surrounding culture so that you too can<br />
love your home.<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Lisa Adara Photography, Anglotopia.net, Amy Avenant,<br />
Blue Haven Marina, Kathy Borsuk, Marisa Findlay<br />
Photography, Derek Gardiner, Katie Gutteridge,<br />
Ora Hasenfratz, Dr. Donald H. Keith, Agile LeVin,<br />
B Naqqi Manco, Dr. Carlton Mills, Marta Morton,<br />
Steve Passmore–Provo Pictures, Jody Rathgeb,<br />
Tom Rathgeb, Eric F. Salamanca, Pat Saxton, Martin Seim,<br />
Turks & Caicos National Museum Collection,<br />
Elizabeth Turner, Le Mens Welch–Caya Hico Media.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
Wavey Line Publishing, Sherlin Williams<br />
PRINTING<br />
Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />
published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />
Copyright © <strong>2017</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />
under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />
No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />
reproduced without written permission.<br />
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Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />
assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />
Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />
event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />
claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />
While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />
information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />
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responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />
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12 www.timespub.tc
unsung heroes<br />
Paul S. Higgs, Sr. was an early advocate for <strong>the</strong> rights <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
Islanders and foresaw tourism as key to <strong>the</strong> country’s progress.<br />
Ahead <strong>of</strong> His Time<br />
Paul Stephenson Higgs, Sr.<br />
Story & Photo By Dr. Carlton Mills<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI’s “unsung heroes” is Paul Stephenson Higgs, Sr. During <strong>the</strong> early years <strong>of</strong> TCI’s political<br />
history, he was a tireless advocate for <strong>the</strong> rights <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos Islanders. Before <strong>the</strong> first hotel was<br />
built in Providenciales, he foresaw tourism as being <strong>the</strong> key to <strong>the</strong> country’s progress and development.<br />
The 2016 TCI election day (December 15, 2016) would have been a proud occasion for <strong>the</strong> late stateman<br />
as his grandson—Hon. Ralph Higgs—followed in his political footsteps, spearheading <strong>the</strong> tourist industry<br />
which he envisioned so long ago as being <strong>the</strong> lifeline <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 13
The Hon. Paul Stephenson Higgs was born in Bottle<br />
Creek, North Caicos on February 2, 1898. He was married<br />
to Brenetta E. Williams <strong>of</strong> Bottle Creek and <strong>the</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong><br />
four sons and four daughters.<br />
Early life<br />
Paul Higgs attended <strong>the</strong> Bottle Creek Primary School (now<br />
Adelaide Oemler Primary School). As a young man, he<br />
engaged in many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> activities preferred by his age<br />
group. These included fishing, boat building and eventually<br />
construction. He was an incredible sailor and<br />
fisherman. He enjoyed fishing so much that he spent<br />
long hours in <strong>the</strong> boat. Many times, his family would<br />
worry about him because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> length <strong>of</strong> time he spent<br />
at sea. He would return home sometimes long after ten in<br />
<strong>the</strong> evening with a huge catch, some <strong>of</strong> which had already<br />
begun to rot! He lost most <strong>of</strong> his catch because <strong>of</strong> this but<br />
he did not worry about that. He was enjoying something<br />
he loved.<br />
Honourable Paul Higgs was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first political<br />
representatives for North Caicos. During his tenure, <strong>the</strong><br />
island experienced many benefits. He was instrumental<br />
in securing scholarships for several persons to pursue<br />
studies in Teacher Education, Nursing and Agriculture in<br />
Jamaica. He had a passion for education. He believed that<br />
if <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> North Caicos were to assume responsible<br />
positions within <strong>the</strong>ir country, education must play a pivotal<br />
role. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> persons who received scholarships<br />
at <strong>the</strong> time in North Caicos include Claudius and Carlton<br />
Williams, Cecelia Gray and Raymond Gardiner. These individuals<br />
went on to become prominent citizens in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
due to efforts that were made by Hon. Higgs to ensure<br />
overseas training for <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
The commencement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> popular road works programme,<br />
which involved ensuring that <strong>the</strong> roads and<br />
roadsides were properly maintained, was started under<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs’ watch. This programme provided<br />
employment opportunities for several persons on <strong>the</strong><br />
island who, under ordinary circumstances, would not<br />
have been able to support <strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>the</strong>ir families.<br />
Ironically, despite <strong>the</strong> progress we claim to have made<br />
today, some political figures are still seeing this initiative<br />
as <strong>the</strong> way to stimulate <strong>the</strong> economy in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Paul Higgs was a hard-working, trustworthy, dedicated<br />
and determined man. He was very bold and outspoken<br />
and would give you a piece <strong>of</strong> his mind in a heartbeat.<br />
He once told a renowned politician at a public meeting in<br />
North Caicos to shut up because he “would not know ‘A’<br />
if it was as big as <strong>the</strong> rafters in <strong>the</strong> building” where <strong>the</strong><br />
meeting was being held. He was alluding to <strong>the</strong> fact that<br />
uneducated persons should not be in <strong>the</strong> forefront <strong>of</strong> politics.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same meeting, he also reprimanded <strong>the</strong> new<br />
leader <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> PDM Party, Hon. JAGS McCartney, referring<br />
to <strong>the</strong>m as <strong>the</strong> “Black Power Boys” and that <strong>the</strong>re was no<br />
need for that kind <strong>of</strong> movement in North Caicos. This was<br />
because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> perception <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> party at that time.<br />
He was also a very religious man. He was not only a<br />
Senior Deacon in <strong>the</strong> local Baptist Church, but he was <strong>the</strong><br />
person in charge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> church. One had to “tow <strong>the</strong> line”<br />
under his leadership. He did not tolerate marital indiscretions<br />
and laziness. He frowned on persons who could not<br />
work due to minor illness such as <strong>the</strong> flu. He would <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
be heard reminding workers that only lazy people had<br />
time to be sick. He was never sick—not even on <strong>the</strong> day<br />
<strong>of</strong> his sudden death.<br />
Paul Higgs was a confidante and <strong>the</strong> local people who<br />
lovingly referred to him as “Con Paul” (Cousin Paul) relied<br />
on him regularly for advice. He also served in <strong>the</strong> very<br />
sought after and important role <strong>of</strong> Justice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Peace<br />
and Marriage Officer in <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> North Caicos.<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs played a pivotal role in <strong>the</strong> day-to-day<br />
life <strong>of</strong> his people. In addition to his religious role, he also<br />
represented <strong>the</strong> poor and downtrodden in <strong>the</strong> courts. He<br />
sought justice, pro bono, for those who could not defend<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves, despite not having any formal legal training.<br />
This was a clear testament <strong>of</strong> his interest and concern for<br />
his people.<br />
A man with vision<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs was a man with a vision. He envisioned<br />
<strong>the</strong> demise <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt and <strong>the</strong> sisal industries and argued<br />
that although salt brought some prosperity to <strong>the</strong> TCI, he<br />
believed that it was <strong>the</strong> main factor that contributed to<br />
<strong>the</strong> country’s division—Turks against Caicos. At <strong>the</strong> time,<br />
salt was only being produced in <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> (Grand<br />
Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos) and most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> commercial<br />
activity took place in Grand Turk. This made <strong>the</strong> Salt<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> residents, particularly those on Grand Turk, to feel<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y were superior to people in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
“Caucus people” (as <strong>the</strong>y were called by Salt Islanders)<br />
had to travel many days in sloops to Grand Turk to trade<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir ground provisions and sisal products. Although <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
farm produce was badly needed in Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong>se<br />
hard-working and ambitious people were, in many cases,<br />
mistreated and scorned during <strong>the</strong>ir visits. At that time,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re was a buoy placed in <strong>the</strong> waters to clearly demarcate<br />
<strong>the</strong> separation between <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. This was responsible for <strong>the</strong> phrase “West <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
14 www.timespub.tc
Buoy.” “Caucus people come from West <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Buoy,” was<br />
a popular but not endearing term during those years.<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs wanted to end this segregation and<br />
replace it with a unified TCI. For this reason, he lobbied<br />
in <strong>the</strong> State Council for <strong>the</strong> economy to be diversified. He<br />
felt that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> should move towards being a tourist<br />
destination. He obviously saw where this initiative would<br />
have more far-ranging financial benefits to <strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI than what was being realized through<br />
<strong>the</strong> salt industry.<br />
Political challenges<br />
One <strong>of</strong> Hon. Paul Higgs’ major tests came in <strong>the</strong> late 1950s<br />
and early 1960s when <strong>the</strong> Federation Movement was <strong>the</strong><br />
political headline in <strong>the</strong> English-speaking Caribbean. The<br />
TCI was no exception since <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> were being administered<br />
by Jamaica at <strong>the</strong> time and Jamaica was deeply<br />
involved in <strong>the</strong> Federation and <strong>the</strong> self-determination<br />
movement. Although <strong>the</strong> TCI was ruled by Jamaica, it had<br />
not achieved <strong>the</strong> same status <strong>of</strong> internal self-government<br />
as many countries involved in <strong>the</strong> Federation Movement.<br />
The Federation issue was challenging to <strong>the</strong> TCI for<br />
several reasons. Firstly, TCI was at <strong>the</strong> time regarded geographically<br />
as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas and had close ties with<br />
this country as many <strong>of</strong> its people had migrated <strong>the</strong>re<br />
seeking employment. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> TCI’s agricultural<br />
abilities were hampered by <strong>the</strong> poor quality <strong>of</strong> its<br />
soil which did not permit for mass production <strong>of</strong> crops.<br />
Because <strong>of</strong> this, <strong>the</strong> TCI relied heavily on imports from<br />
neighbouring countries. Ano<strong>the</strong>r serious challenge faced<br />
was its distance away from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean countries<br />
involved in <strong>the</strong> Federation Movement, making travel and<br />
communication between <strong>the</strong>se countries almost impossible.<br />
The TCI itself, because <strong>of</strong> its geographically scattered<br />
nature, created administrative concerns. These challenges<br />
led to <strong>the</strong> TCI’s inability to elect a representative to <strong>the</strong><br />
BWI Federation parliament. Turks & Caicos <strong>the</strong>refore<br />
had no choice but to seek a special position within <strong>the</strong><br />
Federation, which limited its ability to become a full member<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Federation as Jamaica was.<br />
Under <strong>the</strong> administration <strong>of</strong> Jamaica, <strong>the</strong> TCI suffered<br />
major political and economic injustices. Politically,<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> did not receive adequate representation. The<br />
governor <strong>of</strong> Jamaica, who was also responsible for <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI, was seated in Jamaica and made decisions about <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> without consulting <strong>the</strong> TCI representatives who,<br />
on occasions, had to travel by sloops to Jamaica and<br />
missed many sittings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jamaican House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 15
Also, because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> limited numbers <strong>of</strong> TCI representatives,<br />
even if <strong>the</strong>y had arrived on time to attend House<br />
meetings, <strong>the</strong>y could not affect any real change for <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI as <strong>the</strong>y were outnumbered. Jamaica in essence, was<br />
seeking its own interest with little concern for <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />
Economically, Jamaica was benefitting from <strong>the</strong> TCI’s<br />
salt industry by charging a tax on all exports <strong>of</strong> salt from<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI. The income from this tax went directly to support<br />
Jamaica’s economy ra<strong>the</strong>r than being reinvested into<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI. This was a repeat <strong>of</strong> what was experienced in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1700s and early 1800s while TCI was being administered<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. This practice by Jamaica seriously<br />
contributed to <strong>the</strong> fur<strong>the</strong>r underdevelopment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />
It is important to note that all <strong>the</strong> commercial activity<br />
was mainly between Jamaica and Grand Turk, making <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> dependent on Grand Turk for day-to-day<br />
needs, fur<strong>the</strong>r enhancing <strong>the</strong> superiority complex <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
residents <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk forementioned.<br />
Based on those critical circumstances, it was decision<br />
time for <strong>the</strong> British Crown Colony (<strong>the</strong> TCI). The decision<br />
was whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> should remain with Jamaica<br />
or return as a full-fledged British Colony. Many heated<br />
debates ensued, resulting in visits made by delegations<br />
from <strong>the</strong> TCI to Jamaica and to England. Hon. Paul Higgs<br />
was one <strong>of</strong> those persons who travelled to Jamaica and<br />
finally to England to present <strong>the</strong> case on behalf <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI withdrawing from Jamaica. Knowing how candid and<br />
forceful he was, it is strongly believed that he influenced<br />
several <strong>of</strong> his colleagues to take <strong>the</strong> same position as he<br />
did. In fact, he was <strong>the</strong> spokesman for <strong>the</strong> Caicos group<br />
and was reported as saying to <strong>the</strong> British Parliament,<br />
“Anchor us <strong>of</strong>f in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Ocean. We refuse to suffer<br />
one more day under Jamaica!”<br />
When it came to <strong>the</strong> crucial vote in <strong>the</strong> TCI’s local<br />
Legislative Council, made up <strong>of</strong> one member from Salt<br />
Cay, one from South Caicos, two from Grand Turk, one<br />
from Middle Caicos, three from North Caicos and one<br />
from Blue Hills, <strong>the</strong> Yes’s won by one vote (five to four) in<br />
favour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI moving away from Jamaica and becoming<br />
a full-fledged British Colony. This was symbolic <strong>of</strong><br />
Hon. Higgs’ strong stance against <strong>the</strong> harmful separation<br />
between <strong>the</strong> Turks and <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. All <strong>the</strong><br />
representatives from <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> voted in favour <strong>of</strong><br />
remaining with Jamaica, while all <strong>the</strong> representatives in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, led by Higgs, voted for separation.<br />
If it were not for his strong position and leadership,<br />
supported by that <strong>of</strong> his colleagues Gus Lightbourne,<br />
Emanuel Hall, James Walkin and Harry Musgrove, <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
might still be a colony <strong>of</strong> Jamaica to this day! One can<br />
only assume that with <strong>the</strong> economic and political challenges<br />
that Jamaica is currently facing, <strong>the</strong> TCI might<br />
not be enjoying <strong>the</strong> high level <strong>of</strong> economic growth and<br />
prosperity it now enjoys. These five brave men had finally<br />
affected <strong>the</strong> change longed for by <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Following this vote, representatives in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
16 www.timespub.tc
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<strong>Islands</strong> realized that <strong>the</strong> balance <strong>of</strong> power resided in <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. They felt that to avoid fur<strong>the</strong>r defeats,<br />
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was placed in Grand Turk, giving <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
majority <strong>of</strong> seats.<br />
Post-Jamaica years<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs was a part <strong>of</strong> TCI’s pre-ministerial era.<br />
He realized that <strong>the</strong> single member constituency that<br />
currently existed could not reap <strong>the</strong> necessary rewards<br />
for <strong>the</strong> TCI. Hence, he encouraged voters to support <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>n-Labour Party which was spearheaded by Clarence<br />
Jolly and o<strong>the</strong>rs who had just returned home from <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas with experience in political organizations. Hon.<br />
Higgs spoke out openly in favour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Labour Party as<br />
he felt that collectively, local representatives would be a<br />
greater force to reckon with. He noted that every developed<br />
country had a labour system <strong>of</strong> government. In his<br />
view, <strong>the</strong> same should apply for <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />
He drew reference in his many political speeches to<br />
countries such as Barbados, Jamaica and Trinidad and to<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir respective Labour leaders—Errol Barrow, Alexander<br />
Bustamante and Dr. Eric Williams. He was self-educated<br />
and kept abreast <strong>of</strong> what was happening politically in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caribbean region and <strong>the</strong> role that Caribbean leaders<br />
were playing in <strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir people. Hon. Paul Higgs<br />
admonished <strong>the</strong> TCI to follow <strong>the</strong> example around <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
He argued that <strong>the</strong> world was changing and that <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
should also change in order to remain competitive.<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs was passionate about his people. He<br />
argued that <strong>the</strong> TCI should make a serious effort to attract<br />
foreign investment. He believed that this would be one <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> ways to reduce unemployment and raise <strong>the</strong> standard<br />
<strong>of</strong> living <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI. This, he believed, would<br />
make <strong>the</strong> TCI a better place. This was his dream.<br />
Hon. Paul Higgs saw <strong>the</strong> need for self-improvement<br />
and cooperation to prevail in <strong>the</strong> TCI. This is what he<br />
promoted over <strong>the</strong> years, particularly at <strong>the</strong> opening <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> House <strong>of</strong> Assembly. He believed that Turks & Caicos<br />
Islanders should be <strong>the</strong> architects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir growth and<br />
development. To this end, he pushed continuously for<br />
Islanders to undertake advanced training, and advocated<br />
for TCI people to go abroad and earn degrees in areas<br />
such as Medicine, Agriculture and Education. These persons,<br />
he opined, would be instrumental in charting a new<br />
course for <strong>the</strong> TCI. He first coined <strong>the</strong> phrase “Turks &<br />
Caicos Islanders First.”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 17
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Hon. Paul Higgs was a warrior. He was a champion<br />
for people’s rights, justice and equality. He felt <strong>the</strong> pain<br />
that <strong>the</strong> people in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were experiencing.<br />
He experienced <strong>the</strong>ir struggle first-hand. He knew about<br />
<strong>the</strong> rejection Caicos people encountered. He experienced<br />
it first-hand. He knew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir unfair treatment and degradation.<br />
He experienced it first-hand.<br />
Despite being unpopular in certain circles, Hon. Paul<br />
Higgs was a man <strong>of</strong> passion, a man <strong>of</strong> substance, a man<br />
who cared. He placed country above self, a concept that<br />
is desperately lacking among some politicians in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
today. This is what is required <strong>of</strong> leaders. Hon. Paul Higgs<br />
led by example.<br />
The TCI has since seen <strong>the</strong> closure <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt and<br />
sisal industries and <strong>the</strong> growth and expansion <strong>of</strong> tourism<br />
with flights from North America, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and<br />
Europe. This is undoubtedly Paul Higgs’ vision being<br />
realized. What has made his vision so significant is that<br />
tourism is now <strong>the</strong> focus <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—<strong>the</strong> very<br />
islands that Hon. Higgs knew needed to grow and develop<br />
in that direction. Some <strong>of</strong> his family members, including<br />
two <strong>of</strong> his sons and one <strong>of</strong> his grandsons, have been<br />
actively involved in <strong>the</strong> tourist industry in <strong>the</strong> TCI and <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas.<br />
Interestingly, Hon. Higgs himself was not a supporter<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Black Power Boys’ new party, <strong>the</strong> PDM. He<br />
obviously did not endorse some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> activities that <strong>the</strong><br />
group allegedly were engaged in. He obviously would<br />
have supported <strong>the</strong>ir position on making Turks & Caicos<br />
Islanders first in <strong>the</strong>ir country. This is what he wanted<br />
to see. However, during <strong>the</strong> December 15, 2016 general<br />
elections one <strong>of</strong> his grandsons, Hon. Ralph Higgs, who<br />
resigned his post as <strong>the</strong> Director <strong>of</strong> Tourism to contest<br />
a seat, on a PDM ticket in North and Middle Caicos won<br />
convincingly and was appointed as <strong>the</strong> new Minister <strong>of</strong><br />
Tourism. Hon. Paul Higgs’ dream for TCI seems to have<br />
come full circle.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> 83, Paul Stephenson Higgs died suddenly<br />
(without illness) on May 12, 1980 in Nassau,<br />
Bahamas while visiting his children. He was buried in<br />
Old Trail Cemetery <strong>the</strong>re. TCI Chief Minister Hon. JAGS<br />
McCartney was buried on that same day. Hon Higgs is<br />
survived by two sons and one daughter. From <strong>the</strong> records,<br />
his political career in <strong>the</strong> TCI spans from 1955 to 1962.<br />
The 2016 TCI election day would obviously have been<br />
a proud, joyous and exceptional one for Hon. Paul Higgs if<br />
he were alive to see his bloodline following in his political<br />
footsteps and spearheading <strong>the</strong> tourist industry which he<br />
envisioned so long ago as being <strong>the</strong> lifeline <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI. a<br />
18 www.timespub.tc
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Opposite page: One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great joys <strong>of</strong> living in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is mingling with people from different nationalities at community<br />
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Above: An afternoon <strong>of</strong> floating in <strong>the</strong> sea and sipping a tropical drink is ano<strong>the</strong>r joy to be savored.<br />
Living <strong>the</strong> Dream<br />
Could a life in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> be in your future?<br />
By Ben Stubenberg ~ Photos By Marta Morton, www.harbourclubvillas.com<br />
It’s your last day <strong>of</strong> vacation in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, and you don’t want to leave. Maybe you’re gazing out<br />
over that brilliant turquoise ocean with a cold drink in hand and thinking to yourself, “Wow, could I live<br />
<strong>the</strong> dream?” Countless visitors have asked <strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>the</strong>ir partners that same question. And why<br />
not? Gorgeous beaches, lovely people, cool vibe, tasty cafés, sports galore, warm sunshine and an aura<br />
<strong>of</strong> peace and tranquility spark <strong>the</strong> imagination and create a sense <strong>of</strong> possibilities.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 21
Morning comes too soon, though. The taxi’s waiting<br />
and ready to go. You stand in line at <strong>the</strong> airport, wait,<br />
check in, wait some more, climb <strong>the</strong> stairway into that<br />
gleaming airplane, and buckle up. Your mind gears shift<br />
from <strong>the</strong> relaxed island vibe to <strong>the</strong> familiar world <strong>of</strong> efficient<br />
processing <strong>of</strong> people and paper and things. The<br />
plane takes <strong>of</strong>f and banks out over gorgeous Grace Bay<br />
and <strong>the</strong> surf-fringed reef. You crane your neck and press<br />
your forehead against <strong>the</strong> window so you can get one last<br />
glance. Then it all vanishes below <strong>the</strong> clouds. And <strong>the</strong><br />
dream, along with <strong>the</strong> vacation, starts to slip away.<br />
Now home, you slide back into <strong>the</strong> comfortable routine<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life you have built—and it’s not bad. In fact,<br />
it’s pretty darn good. It got you a vacation on <strong>the</strong> best<br />
beach in <strong>the</strong> world!<br />
But maybe <strong>the</strong> dream lingers a little longer. You<br />
remind yourself that you have entered “middle age” and<br />
now is <strong>the</strong> time to take a turn in life. (Or at least explore<br />
<strong>the</strong> options so you don’t have any regrets later.)<br />
Is it really possible to open that door in <strong>the</strong> far<br />
corner <strong>of</strong> your mind and walk down <strong>the</strong> unlit corridor<br />
towards a new beginning? To swap out <strong>the</strong> routine <strong>of</strong><br />
reasonable certainty and expectations for <strong>the</strong> impetuous<br />
soul <strong>of</strong> a dreamer who gave it all up to walk on a beach<br />
in paradise?<br />
It’s freezing outside, but you still feel <strong>the</strong> warm sand<br />
under your toes. You still see that big orange sun sink<br />
over <strong>the</strong> sea and every hue <strong>of</strong> pink and red paint <strong>the</strong><br />
clouds <strong>of</strong> a darkening sky. You still anticipate <strong>the</strong> quiet<br />
arrival <strong>of</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r tropical night, strewn with a billion<br />
stars, bright and sharp in <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong> ambient light.<br />
And you still remember <strong>the</strong> small act <strong>of</strong> genuine kindness<br />
from someone who made you feel welcome. If that’s you,<br />
keep reading.<br />
Before you take <strong>the</strong> leap<br />
First, ask this essential question: “Can I appreciate <strong>the</strong><br />
fact that I will be a guest in someone else’s country with<br />
a culture and way <strong>of</strong> doing things different from me?”<br />
Think hard because it requires essential qualities <strong>of</strong> tolerance,<br />
empathy, patience, humility, and respect. If your<br />
answer is “No,” don’t come. Period. For all <strong>the</strong> easy-going<br />
goodwill among locals and “expats” (expatriate foreigners<br />
who live here), acceptance goes out <strong>the</strong> window for<br />
those who come down with <strong>the</strong> wrong attitude or prove<br />
untrustworthy.<br />
Know this: The Turks & Caicos is not a place to escape<br />
from problems and bring baggage filled with unresolved<br />
issues. The <strong>Islands</strong> are too small, and whatever bad qualities<br />
you have will be magnified. You won’t last. And even<br />
Enjoying a sunset walk along a nearly deserted beach is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great pleasures <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
22 www.timespub.tc
if you do, you won’t be happy.<br />
But if you’re someone who sees <strong>the</strong>se sunny isles as a<br />
destination where you can open your heart and touch <strong>the</strong><br />
lives <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs who hail from every corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world,<br />
you have passed <strong>the</strong> first test. Living in <strong>the</strong> TCI is just as<br />
much about being an agreeable, simpatico human being<br />
as it is about relishing <strong>the</strong> exquisite natural environment.<br />
Next, are you married, have kids, or are in a tight<br />
relationship with someone? If so, you need to sit down<br />
and have that frank talk to see if he or she shares that<br />
tropical dream with <strong>the</strong> same passion. Often, one partner<br />
will enjoy <strong>the</strong> vacation but for any number <strong>of</strong> quite legitimate<br />
reasons— financial security, career, family—doesn’t<br />
want to make <strong>the</strong> leap. Then you may have to compromise<br />
and just take more vacations here, possibly buying<br />
a house or condo that anchors you to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
without full-time commitment. That’s OK too.<br />
Got kids? There are many excellent schools, and<br />
youngsters who grow up here tend to be smart, secure,<br />
open-minded, and well-adjusted. Still, uprooting <strong>the</strong>m is<br />
a hard call. So, you may have to delay <strong>the</strong> dream for a few<br />
years for <strong>the</strong>ir sake, but that just gives you more time to<br />
lay <strong>the</strong> groundwork for a future move.<br />
Start exploring<br />
Next comes <strong>the</strong> fun part where you take <strong>the</strong> time to really<br />
get a feel for <strong>the</strong> place to see if it’s for you. Read all you<br />
can about <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and current events.<br />
Local magazines (including this one) and newspapers—<br />
hard copy and online—abound and provide a plethora <strong>of</strong><br />
valuable information. Watch local TV shows and listen to<br />
radio stations for insightful local coverage.<br />
Go to <strong>the</strong> Thursday Fish Fry in The Bight, but also plan<br />
a visit around Maskanoo, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Food Festival, <strong>the</strong><br />
Conch Festival, Valentine’s Day Cup and New Year’s at<br />
Rickie’s Flamingo Café. Attend fundraisers for <strong>the</strong> Edward<br />
Gartland Youth Centre, Provo Children’s Home, Turks &<br />
Caicos Reef Fund, and curing breast cancer (In <strong>the</strong> Pink).<br />
If you are sporty, consider taking part in one <strong>of</strong> many<br />
well-organized events such as a run or swim race, triathlon,<br />
sailing regatta, or a golf or tennis tournament. Soccer<br />
for both children and adults is ano<strong>the</strong>r popular sport.<br />
Whe<strong>the</strong>r or not you are religious, visit one <strong>of</strong> numerous<br />
churches <strong>of</strong> just about every denomination and hear<br />
<strong>the</strong> exuberance <strong>of</strong> faith, <strong>of</strong>ten expressed in song.<br />
Rent a car and hire a taxi for a couple <strong>of</strong> hours and<br />
go all over <strong>the</strong> island. Use a guide to fill you in and share<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir local knowledge. Stop in at a variety <strong>of</strong> bars and<br />
cafés.<br />
From top: Maskanoo is an annual cultural festival just after Christmas,<br />
filled with costumes, music, food, and a grand parade.<br />
The Great Raft Race is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> annual Fool’s Regatta, a fun day on<br />
<strong>the</strong> water anticipated by residents young and old.<br />
This group <strong>of</strong> schoolchildren are performing in <strong>the</strong> TCI Costume, with<br />
each band <strong>of</strong> color signifying a different island.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 23
Meet and talk to lots <strong>of</strong> people, but don’t wear <strong>the</strong>m<br />
down with your hopes and dreams. Instead, ask what <strong>the</strong>y<br />
like best about being here. And if <strong>the</strong>y are from somewhere<br />
else, ask <strong>the</strong>m what brought <strong>the</strong>m here. Everyone<br />
has a story. Now ask yourself, “Do I like <strong>the</strong> people around<br />
me? Do I share <strong>the</strong> spirit?”<br />
Most expats who move here had to navigate <strong>the</strong><br />
maze <strong>of</strong> requirements to make <strong>the</strong>ir dream come true,<br />
no matter where <strong>the</strong>y came from. That creates a sort <strong>of</strong><br />
self-selecting part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population imbued with a strong<br />
dose <strong>of</strong> adventuresome confidence—seekers who let<br />
something go back home on <strong>the</strong> gamble it would work<br />
out here. Make no mistake, <strong>the</strong>y took risks and made<br />
trade<strong>of</strong>fs, and so will you. Just be clear-headed: While<br />
<strong>the</strong> lifestyle is unrivaled, having some money behind you<br />
makes it so much easier. This is hard place to be if you<br />
are hurting for cash.<br />
Keep in mind you’ll likely get valuable snippets <strong>of</strong><br />
knowledge, but not <strong>the</strong> full story because it’s not <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
job to prepare you, even if you buy <strong>the</strong> drinks. For that<br />
you should look into hiring someone to get you oriented.<br />
At least one new service, Turks & Caicos Living, has<br />
sprung up to give potential transplants a briefing tour<br />
that covers <strong>the</strong> bases <strong>of</strong> living here from o<strong>the</strong>r expats<br />
who’ve made <strong>the</strong> jump.<br />
Schedule/price subject to change without prior notice.<br />
Downsizing<br />
Most North Americans and Europeans move here looking<br />
for a less hectic, slower pace <strong>of</strong> life. That’s <strong>the</strong> allure<br />
<strong>of</strong> living on a small island in <strong>the</strong> West Indies. And small<br />
islands <strong>the</strong>se are, but very well connected to <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
Still, you need to be comfortable with limited roaming<br />
space and what you can do without.<br />
Providenciales has most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> essentials with supermarkets<br />
and <strong>of</strong>fice supply and building material stores.<br />
We have a fine bookstore, several boutiques, a couple <strong>of</strong><br />
yummy bakeries, and an excellent c<strong>of</strong>fee roaster, brewer,<br />
and rum distiller. There’s a modern hospital, well-stocked<br />
pharmacies, and several very good private doctors<br />
(including naturopathic and osteopathic), optometrists,<br />
physical <strong>the</strong>rapists, and even an acupuncturist. But it’s<br />
not <strong>the</strong> vast shopping center <strong>of</strong> North America, and never<br />
will be.<br />
Take that as an opportunity to roll back and re-evaluate.<br />
After all, whe<strong>the</strong>r you buy a luxurious beachfront<br />
villa or choose less upscale quarters, isn’t entering this<br />
little Eden about changing course, living life a bit unte<strong>the</strong>red?<br />
This is not where you come to replicate “home” with<br />
palm trees and sand.<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
To really appreciate what unte<strong>the</strong>red means, take<br />
a day or two to explore <strong>the</strong> “Out <strong>Islands</strong>” and see how<br />
<strong>the</strong> old Caribbean ways are very much alive. For those<br />
who want a complete break and yearn for an even slower<br />
pace, consider settling in North Caicos, Middle Caicos,<br />
The longest established legal practice<br />
South Caicos or Salt Cay. These rural gems with spectacular<br />
beaches and vast stretches <strong>of</strong> wilderness have only<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
a fraction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population <strong>of</strong> Provo’s 25,000+ and few<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> conveniences. But <strong>the</strong> expats that live here love it<br />
and rely on what is already in place—fresh fish and conch<br />
Real Estate Investments<br />
and healthy local produce. More importantly, <strong>the</strong>y rely on<br />
& Property Development<br />
each o<strong>the</strong>r as <strong>the</strong>y integrate into a more traditional Turks<br />
& Caicos community <strong>of</strong> relationships.<br />
Immigration, Residency<br />
On North Caicos, this might mean sharing drinks and & Business Licensing<br />
grilled snapper with Clifford and friends at <strong>the</strong> thatched<br />
Company & Commercial Law<br />
Barracuda Bar on <strong>the</strong> beach while listening to a “rake and<br />
scrape” band. On tiny Salt Cay, it could be kicking back Trusts & Estate Planning<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Coral Reef Bar and Grille watching for whales to<br />
breach in <strong>the</strong> winter months. Of course, <strong>the</strong> expats bring<br />
Banking & Insurance<br />
in whatever else <strong>the</strong>y need, but over time those needs<br />
become less important. The demands <strong>of</strong> a busy metropolis<br />
fade, replaced by <strong>the</strong> gift <strong>of</strong> serenity.<br />
Grand Turk falls somewhere in <strong>the</strong> middle, with a few<br />
1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97<br />
more conveniences and a pleasant quietude. There are<br />
Leeward Highway, Providenciales<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
cruise ship passengers during <strong>the</strong> day, but most hang<br />
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564<br />
out in Margaritaville by <strong>the</strong> dock and depart by late afternoon.<br />
Cockburn Town, <strong>the</strong> country’s capital, exudes<br />
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />
charm. Here you can wander down tree-shaded lanes with<br />
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />
Market Street, Grand Turk<br />
100+ year-old houses, storefronts and quirky cafés. The<br />
Juan Martinez Fall 15 Turks sixth_Layout & Caicos 1 5/27/16 <strong>Islands</strong>, 11:58 BWIAM Page 1<br />
settlement meanders along a low bluff facing west for<br />
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />
spectacular sunsets framed by perfect beaches on ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />
side. Also, <strong>the</strong> town hosts <strong>the</strong> headquarters for <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
National Museum, a treasure for any lover <strong>of</strong> history.<br />
Chloe Zimmermann, long-time Provo resident, owner<br />
<strong>of</strong> Marco Travel, and agent with Forbes Realty, puts <strong>the</strong><br />
PHONE:<br />
question <strong>of</strong> moving here this way, “Be alert and open<br />
2 4 1 . 3 2 9 7<br />
to emotions that both elate and trouble you about <strong>the</strong><br />
2 4 4 . 9 0 9 0<br />
3 4 4 . 9 4 0 3<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. If it doesn’t feel right for you to live here, <strong>the</strong>n it<br />
2 4 4 . 6 1 9 1<br />
SOUTH DOCK<br />
doesn’t. No worries. At least you found out before making<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> biggest commitments <strong>of</strong> your life. Just visit<br />
ROAD, PROVO<br />
for vacations. And if it does click, count yourself among<br />
<strong>the</strong> fortunate.”<br />
Finding a home—rent, buy or build?<br />
Renting allows you to dip your toe without a major investment,<br />
but be aware that rents can be high and good<br />
places are limited on Provo. The short term rental market<br />
serving visitors is hot right now, which is exacerbating<br />
<strong>the</strong> scarcity <strong>of</strong> long term rentals.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 25
AGILE LEVIN<br />
The author is a self-proclaimed “ocean man” and enjoys training swims in TCI’s crystal-clear waters. He is also co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> annual “Race<br />
for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco SeaSwim, next scheduled for July 1, <strong>2017</strong> along Grace Bay Beach.<br />
Buying naturally ties you more to <strong>the</strong> community.<br />
You are invested in <strong>the</strong> island and have a stake in its<br />
future. Property on <strong>the</strong> beach or on a canal in Provo is in<br />
scarce and expensive, particularly anything on Grace Bay<br />
or in <strong>the</strong> Leeward area. But you only need go back from<br />
<strong>the</strong> beach a few blocks and <strong>the</strong> price drops noticeably.<br />
Houses with magnificent views on Long Bay or on a bluff<br />
or hilltop in Long Bay Hills, Flamingo Pond, South Shore<br />
or Thompson’s Cove can <strong>of</strong>ten be more reasonable.<br />
One very attractive feature <strong>of</strong> buying is that <strong>the</strong>re are<br />
no restrictions on foreign individuals buying property<br />
(but <strong>the</strong>re are restrictions on foreign companies). And<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are no real estate taxes beyond a one-time stamp<br />
duty. Stamp duty is calculated on a sliding percentage <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> sale price up to a maximum <strong>of</strong> 10% on Provo and up<br />
to 6.5% on some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r advantage <strong>of</strong> a house purchase <strong>of</strong> at least<br />
$300,000 is that you can be eligible for a non-work<br />
residency permit (with $1,500 fee every five years as<br />
explained below). And still ano<strong>the</strong>r bonus is that, subject<br />
to certain qualifying criteria, you can bring down a full<br />
container <strong>of</strong> household goods and pay a processing fee<br />
at Customs <strong>of</strong> 7.5% on <strong>the</strong> value.<br />
Building a house <strong>of</strong>fers many advantages and,<br />
although more intimidating, can actually be an incredibly<br />
exciting and fulfilling experience. Immediate benefits<br />
are that you get to choose <strong>the</strong> ideal location, design <strong>the</strong><br />
house exactly <strong>the</strong> way you want it (within budget, <strong>of</strong><br />
course) and you get a house without having to pay <strong>the</strong><br />
10% stamp duty on its value (you only pay stamp duty on<br />
<strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> land).<br />
If you decide that building is <strong>the</strong> way to go, <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
no better advice we can give than to first contact a locally<br />
based, fully qualified pr<strong>of</strong>essional architect. They will<br />
be able to assist you in setting realistic budgets, advise<br />
you on appropriate land purchases to suit your needs<br />
and steer you all <strong>the</strong> way through <strong>the</strong> process, including<br />
financing <strong>the</strong> build, choosing a contractor and completing<br />
construction. They will also be able to help you select<br />
legal assistance, furniture suppliers, landscapers and all<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r aspects <strong>of</strong> designing and building a home. Be aware<br />
that nei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> building nor design industry is regulated<br />
and <strong>the</strong>refore it is critical that you find someone properly<br />
qualified and with a proven record <strong>of</strong> service in <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Note that construction costs are higher than <strong>the</strong> US,<br />
driven largely by import duty on many building supplies<br />
and increased cost <strong>of</strong> doing business generally.<br />
Residency—<strong>the</strong> legal aspects<br />
If it still feels right, it’s time to talk to an attorney who can<br />
guide you through <strong>the</strong> nuances <strong>of</strong> residency, working,<br />
26 www.timespub.tc
TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1<br />
banking, and investing. That’s when <strong>the</strong> dream can come<br />
up against reality. Learn exactly what hurdles you have<br />
to clear to make it happen. Here’s what to ask and what<br />
you need to know:<br />
1. Do you need to work? If yes, (meaning you have to<br />
earn a living to survive,) you need a work permit that falls<br />
into two basic categories:<br />
• You can seek out an employer who needs your skills but<br />
cannot find <strong>the</strong>m among those with full citizen “Belonger”<br />
status. That means your prospective employer has to<br />
apply for a work permit for you, which includes advertising<br />
<strong>the</strong> position. If no one qualified applies, you may be<br />
hired, typically for a year or two at a time before you have<br />
to renew. The employer must pay a work permit fee that<br />
can amount to many thousands <strong>of</strong> dollars depending on<br />
<strong>the</strong> skill level. That tends to dampen salaries. After 10<br />
consecutive years you can apply for Permanent Residency<br />
status (PRC) and <strong>the</strong> work permit fees no longer have to<br />
be paid. The current fee for a PRC is $10,000.<br />
• You can open your own business. For that you must<br />
apply for a business license, which is reviewed for<br />
approval depending on <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> business. While<br />
not automatic, businesses that benefit <strong>the</strong> country with<br />
Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,<br />
mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.<br />
TELEPHONE 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 27
three year periods before you have to renew again. This<br />
is definitely <strong>the</strong> low risk option and may appeal to retirees<br />
with a good pension or investment income, as you must<br />
show you can support yourself. You may also qualify if<br />
you can do your work remotely <strong>of</strong>f-island so you are not<br />
affecting local employment. This might be a consulting<br />
business where <strong>the</strong> services are performed outside <strong>the</strong><br />
country or a stock day-trader. If you live here in this status<br />
for 10 consecutive years, you can apply for a PRC<br />
without <strong>the</strong> right to work.<br />
• You can invest in a house for a minimum <strong>of</strong> $300,000<br />
and get a homeowner’s residency permit. You will have<br />
to pay $1,500 every five years, but you can generally live<br />
here as long as you own <strong>the</strong> house. This type <strong>of</strong> residency<br />
permit does not give you eligibility for a PRC after 10<br />
years.<br />
• You can request visitor status for between 30 to 90<br />
days at a time. For this you must leave <strong>the</strong> country when<br />
<strong>the</strong> 90 days are up. But you can return a day later and<br />
request ano<strong>the</strong>r 90 days. This can be a good option if<br />
you are spending part <strong>of</strong> your time back in your home<br />
country and don’t really intend to live in <strong>the</strong> TCI full time.<br />
Constant renewals every 30 to 90 days, however, can<br />
invite close scrutiny <strong>of</strong> your purpose here. So, this is not<br />
usually recommended as a long-term option.<br />
If <strong>the</strong>y say natural beauty—especially sun and sea—promotes healing<br />
and reduces stress, a visit to Middle Caicos is a tonic.<br />
investment and services are generally approved, as long<br />
as <strong>the</strong>y do not fall into restricted categories reserved for<br />
Belongers. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se restricted categories include<br />
taxi services, small to medium construction services,<br />
and certain boat businesses. You can engage in <strong>the</strong>se<br />
restricted category businesses if you have a Belonger<br />
business partner who owns a majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> interest<br />
in <strong>the</strong> business. Be advised that while you will not need<br />
labour clearance to manage <strong>the</strong> business, you will have<br />
to pay <strong>the</strong> maximum work permit fees that are currently<br />
$9,500 per year. As with employee work permits, you can<br />
apply for a PRC after 10 consecutive years and <strong>the</strong>n not<br />
have to pay <strong>the</strong> work permit fees.<br />
2. Do you not have to work or will your work be performed<br />
<strong>of</strong>f-island? If so, you have three basic non-work<br />
residency options.<br />
• You can apply for a non-working residency permit. It<br />
costs $1,500 a year and can generally be obtained for<br />
3. Do you have serious medical issues or a criminal<br />
record?<br />
• If you are planning to work, and thus be part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
national medical and insurance system, you will need a<br />
medical clearance done here with in-depth screening.<br />
You may be rejected if you have serious medical conditions<br />
that risk infecting o<strong>the</strong>rs and/or will require <strong>the</strong><br />
health system to incur great expense. You will also need<br />
a medical clearance if you are seeking a general non-work<br />
residency permit for $1,500 a year, but <strong>the</strong> screening is<br />
not as in-depth. Those using <strong>the</strong> homeowner residency<br />
permit need not have a medical clearance.<br />
• All categories <strong>of</strong> residency require that you provide a<br />
police record from your home country showing you have<br />
no criminal past, along with reference letters proving<br />
good character.<br />
Erica Krygsman, attorney at Provo law firm Twa,<br />
Marcelin, and Wolf, advises, “Whatever your situation, you<br />
would do best to understand and appreciate <strong>the</strong> rationale<br />
behind <strong>the</strong> current immigration policies, which is<br />
first and foremost to protect <strong>the</strong> livelihood and well-being<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />
28 www.timespub.tc
The reception you’ll get<br />
What can you expect when you get here? This really<br />
depends on your demeanor and mindset. It’s like any<br />
small town—you develop a web <strong>of</strong> friends and contacts<br />
and a reputation. Most expats give everyone a chance to<br />
fit in and share <strong>the</strong>ir story because <strong>the</strong>y’ve been <strong>the</strong>re<br />
too. Don’t blow it with inflated self-importance.<br />
Equally welcoming are locals. But again, it depends<br />
on <strong>the</strong> way you come across. Show arrogance, and you’re<br />
done. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time, things work fine. And when <strong>the</strong>y<br />
don’t, chill out and remember: Folks are not here to make<br />
sure your Big City expectations are promptly met. Show a<br />
little sensitivity and you will get along just fine.<br />
Sure, expats are easier to get to know because you<br />
come from a common background and experience. So<br />
it’s easy to drift into exclusive circles. But cut yourself <strong>of</strong>f<br />
from <strong>the</strong> local population, and you’ll miss some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
most precious moments <strong>of</strong> living here.<br />
Once when emerging from <strong>the</strong> water on <strong>the</strong> far end<br />
<strong>of</strong> Grace Bay after a swim, a group <strong>of</strong> locals preparing<br />
a BBQ on <strong>the</strong> beach called out, “Hey, you want to have<br />
a beer with us? How about some food? Got some good<br />
stuff cookin’ up.” Heck, <strong>the</strong>y didn’t owe me anything, but<br />
<strong>the</strong>re <strong>the</strong>y were sharing what <strong>the</strong>y had with a stranger<br />
who came out <strong>of</strong> nowhere. How cool is that?<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r time I heard loud calypso and reggae music<br />
coming from <strong>the</strong> beach in <strong>the</strong> Leeward area. I slipped on<br />
my sandals and ambled toward <strong>the</strong> sound a few blocks<br />
away. When I got <strong>the</strong>re, about 30 locals were dancing Harbour on Club:Layout 1<br />
<strong>the</strong> sand to <strong>the</strong> sounds played by a DJ. On seeing me,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir first words were a very concerned, “Are we too loud?<br />
We can turn it down.” I assured <strong>the</strong>m it was just fine.<br />
“Well, <strong>the</strong>n have a drink and hang out for a while.” Once<br />
again, a stranger just shows up and is made to feel welcome.<br />
There is a soul to <strong>the</strong> way <strong>of</strong> life <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
8/17/16 10:16 AM Page 1<br />
Islanders, as well as <strong>the</strong> amazing diversity <strong>of</strong> humanity<br />
woven into <strong>the</strong> tapestry <strong>of</strong> this micro-universe. When you<br />
Turtle Tail Drive, Providenciales<br />
come across it, embrace with gusto!<br />
Six one-bedroom villas.<br />
Dive operators at our dock.<br />
When it comes to service, consider how Caicos Bonefishing in <strong>the</strong> lake.<br />
Express Airlines handled a customer who had just missed<br />
a flight to Salt Cay. She had hoped to make <strong>the</strong> connection<br />
Fabulous beaches nearby.<br />
Ideal for couples or groups.<br />
after flying down from Toronto in mid-February, but<br />
<strong>the</strong> Canadian plane had been delayed. The eight-seater<br />
Caicos Express flies to Salt Cay only four days a week, so<br />
she would have to wait a couple more days in Provo. But<br />
<strong>the</strong> customer was so understanding that <strong>the</strong> quick-thinking<br />
Trip Advisor<br />
Travellers’ Choice<br />
Awards Winner<br />
E: harbourclub@tciway.tc<br />
ticket counter agent decided to help her out. She T: 1 649 941 5748<br />
See our website<br />
called <strong>the</strong> captain <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> aircraft, who was taxiing to <strong>the</strong> for details.<br />
runway, and asked if he could return to <strong>the</strong> gate to pick<br />
Harbour Club Villas<br />
www.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 29
enewable energy solutions<br />
energy efficiency solutions<br />
www.greenrevolutionltd.com<br />
moreinfo@greenrevolutionltd.com<br />
tel. 649-232-1393<br />
up one more passenger. He did. The little door at <strong>the</strong><br />
back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plane opened and <strong>the</strong> steps dropped down.<br />
She scurried up and flew away. Where else is that going<br />
to happen?<br />
Finally, <strong>the</strong>re’s ano<strong>the</strong>r kind <strong>of</strong> reception that may<br />
be waiting for you, but it’s not from people. Ra<strong>the</strong>r, it’s a<br />
sense <strong>of</strong> well-being that derives from proximity to water.<br />
According to Wallace J. Nichols, author <strong>of</strong> Blue Mind, neurological<br />
studies show that just looking at blue water<br />
affects your brain positively by reducing stress.<br />
Grace Bay Medical Centre has taken this a step fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
and developed a broad-based Wellness Program that<br />
integrates <strong>the</strong> natural positive aspects <strong>of</strong> sun and sea<br />
to enhance and promote healing. Island Naturopath Dr.<br />
Meghan O’Reilly explains, “Research clearly shows that<br />
<strong>the</strong> natural environment has a direct impact on health. So<br />
we make sure that everyone going through <strong>the</strong> program<br />
takes full advantage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> exceptional conditions in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos, including ocean water <strong>the</strong>rapy.”<br />
Indeed, <strong>the</strong> evidence is building that being visually<br />
close to and possibly immersed in pleasant watery environments<br />
makes people healthier and happer. Certainly,<br />
few living on this 100 mile-long archipelago surrounded<br />
by clear, warm ocean would argue with that.<br />
Visitors <strong>of</strong>ten ask residents if <strong>the</strong>y ever get bored<br />
or tired <strong>of</strong> island life. It’s a fair question, but one that<br />
is likely answered with a smile, “No, never. Watching<br />
<strong>the</strong> sunrise bring in a new day moves me as much now<br />
as when I first arrived.” Feel that, and you can live <strong>the</strong><br />
dream. a<br />
Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Ben<br />
is co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vacation adventure company Caicu<br />
Naniki Adventures and <strong>the</strong> annual swim race “Race for<br />
<strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-SeaSwim. An avid ocean man and frequent<br />
guide for dreamers, he can be reached at ben@<br />
caicunaniki.com.<br />
RESOURCES:<br />
Twa, Marcelin, Wolf/Attorneys at Law<br />
Chloe Zimmermann/Forbes Realty & Marco Travel<br />
Grace Bay Medical Centre/Health & Wellness<br />
Turks & Caicos Reservations/Bookings & Island Living<br />
Visit Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>/Website<br />
Simon Wood/Architecture<br />
Norstar Group/Construction<br />
Caicu Naniki/Island Living & Vacation Adventures<br />
30 www.timespub.tc
green pages<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc<br />
This rare Piping Plover was spotted at East Bay Cay, North Caicos on January 25, <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
ERIC F. SALAMANCA<br />
A Rare “Snowbird” Returns<br />
Piping Plovers return to <strong>the</strong> TCI for <strong>the</strong> winter.<br />
By Eric F. Salamanca (DECR), Elise Elliot-Smith (US Geological Survey), Caleb Spiegel and Craig Watson<br />
(US Fish and Wildlife Service), Sidney Maddock (Contractor for Environment and Climate Change Canada),<br />
Simon Busuttil (Turks & Caicos National Trust & Royal Society for <strong>the</strong> Protection <strong>of</strong> Birds), Kathleen Wood<br />
(SWA Environmental), Bryan Manco (DECR), Luc Clerveaux, Marta Calosso and John Claydon (DECR)<br />
The mudflats and sandy beaches <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have long attracted Piping Plovers.<br />
However, due to <strong>the</strong>ir cryptic colouring and use <strong>of</strong> remote beaches, we are just beginning to learn <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir presence here. The Piping Plover is a rare shorebird that breeds in <strong>the</strong> United States and Canada<br />
and migrates to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn USA, Caribbean, and Mexico for <strong>the</strong> winter. The International Union for <strong>the</strong><br />
Conservation <strong>of</strong> Nature (IUCN) Red List has listed this bird as “Near Threatened,” while <strong>the</strong> US and Canada<br />
have it federally listed as “Threatened/Endangered.”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 31
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Wintering birds from USA and Canada spend considerable<br />
time in <strong>the</strong> TCI, probably due to <strong>the</strong> favourable<br />
climate and habitats. Piping Plovers prefer mudflat and<br />
sandy beach habitats. Mudflats, also known as tidal flats,<br />
are coastal wetlands that appear when shallow flats are<br />
exposed by tides.<br />
Mangroves constitute an important part <strong>of</strong> muddy<br />
coastlines, both biologically and for stability. Any disturbance<br />
or damage to mangroves, such as clearing or<br />
cutting, can cause severe problems, decreasing biodiversity<br />
and causing erosion and flooding, <strong>the</strong>reby affecting<br />
<strong>the</strong> wintering habitats <strong>of</strong> Piping Plovers.<br />
The Piping Plover (Charadrius melodus) is a small<br />
shorebird that nests and feeds along coastal sand, mudflats<br />
and beaches. The Piping Plover’s diet includes<br />
marine worms, fly larvae, beetles, insects, crustaceans,<br />
mollusks and o<strong>the</strong>r small invertebrates. When it spots<br />
prey, <strong>the</strong> plover will quickly run after it, stop suddenly,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n quickly snatch it up.<br />
In 2011, many local bird enthusiasts had reported<br />
Piping Plover sightings during <strong>the</strong> winter months, but no<br />
authoritative confirmation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> birds’ migration to TCI<br />
had yet been made. They were observed in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
Bahamas at that time (Gratto-Trevor, et.al., 2016). The<br />
preferred wintering habitats in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas are replicated<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Knowing this, in 2016 a<br />
group <strong>of</strong> researchers from <strong>the</strong> US Geologic Survey (USGS)<br />
and US Fish and Wildlife Service (UFWS), in cooperation<br />
with <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Environment and Coastal<br />
Resources (DECR) conducted a preliminary survey and<br />
found 96 Piping Plovers and 57 Wilson’s Plovers in TCI.<br />
This year (<strong>2017</strong>), <strong>the</strong> same group, with <strong>the</strong> addition <strong>of</strong><br />
Environment and Climate Change Canada, Turks & Caicos<br />
National Trust, <strong>the</strong> UK’s Royal Society for <strong>the</strong> Protection<br />
<strong>of</strong> Birds (RSPB) and SWA Environmental collaborated to<br />
conduct a similar study but to cover more areas.<br />
This year’s preliminary results recorded 174 Piping<br />
Plovers (78 more than last year), observed at East Caicos,<br />
South Caicos, Little Ambergris Cay, Little Water Cay, Fort<br />
George and <strong>the</strong> East Bay Cays <strong>of</strong>f North Caicos. Banded<br />
Piping Plovers (e.g. those with coded bands on <strong>the</strong>ir legs)<br />
were tracked and found to have originated on <strong>the</strong> breeding<br />
grounds in <strong>the</strong> USA and Canada. This finding, also<br />
observed in 2016, confirms that endangered and threatened<br />
birds that breed in <strong>the</strong> USA and Canada spend <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
winter in TCI. The excellent habitats, including secluded<br />
and undeveloped mudflats and sandy beaches, are definitely<br />
among <strong>the</strong> many factors that make TCI an attractive<br />
wintering area for many migratory birds. In addition to<br />
<strong>the</strong> large number <strong>of</strong> Piping Plovers, <strong>the</strong> survey team found<br />
several hundred <strong>of</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r US and Canadian “threatened”<br />
shorebird, <strong>the</strong> Red Knot (Calidris canutus), on remote<br />
sand bars near Middle Caicos. This year’s survey also<br />
recorded more than 3,500 wintering shorebirds.<br />
Description<br />
The Piping Plover is a small, stout shorebird, with a large,<br />
rounded head, a short, thick neck and a stubby bill. It is<br />
a sand-colored, dull gray/khaki, sparrow-sized shorebird.<br />
The adult has yellow-orange legs, a black band across<br />
<strong>the</strong> forehead from eye to eye and a black ring around <strong>the</strong><br />
neck during <strong>the</strong> breeding season. During nonbreeding<br />
season, <strong>the</strong> black band becomes less pronounced. Its bill<br />
is mostly black, with a small amount <strong>of</strong> orange at <strong>the</strong><br />
base. It ranges from 15–19 cm (5.9–7.5 in) in length, with<br />
a wingspan <strong>of</strong> 35–41 cm (14–16 in) and a mass <strong>of</strong> 42–64<br />
g (1.5–2.3 oz).<br />
Breeding<br />
Piping Plovers breed on open sand, gravel, or shell-strewn<br />
beaches and alkali flats. Each nest site is typically near<br />
small clumps <strong>of</strong> grass, drift, or o<strong>the</strong>r windbreak. In winter,<br />
birds prefer sand beaches and mudflats. Migrants are<br />
seldom seen inland, but occasionally show up at shores,<br />
river bars, or alkali flats.<br />
Conservation status<br />
The Piping Plover is globally threatened or endangered,<br />
depending on <strong>the</strong> location, with fewer than 9,000 individuals<br />
in <strong>the</strong> world. In <strong>the</strong> US Great Lakes region, it<br />
has been listed as “Endangered” and it is considered<br />
“Threatened” in <strong>the</strong> remainder <strong>of</strong> its US breeding range.<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
The Piping Plover survey team is looking for <strong>the</strong>se illusive birds at East Bay Cay, North Caicos.<br />
ERIC F. SALAMANCA<br />
In eastern Canada, <strong>the</strong> Piping Plover is considered an<br />
“Endangered” species. In <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />
this bird is listed as “Rare and Endangered” (Wildlife<br />
and Biodiversity Protection Bill). It is globally recognized<br />
as “Near-threatened” by <strong>the</strong> International Union for <strong>the</strong><br />
Conservation <strong>of</strong> Nature.<br />
Critical activities that affect Piping Plover<br />
Many anthropogenic activities can negatively affect Piping<br />
Plover populations, including <strong>the</strong> following: dredging and<br />
dredge spoil placement; construction and installation <strong>of</strong><br />
facilities; pipeline construction; road development; oil<br />
spills and oil spill clean-up; construction <strong>of</strong> dwellings,<br />
roads, marinas, and o<strong>the</strong>r structures and associated<br />
impacts, such as staging <strong>of</strong> equipment and materials;<br />
beach nourishment, stabilization and cleaning; certain<br />
types and levels <strong>of</strong> recreational activities such as all-terrain<br />
vehicular activity; predation and disturbance by<br />
introduced animals; storm water and wastewater discharge.<br />
It was noted by <strong>the</strong> visiting researchers that a high<br />
tide roost known to support Piping Plover from last year<br />
was empty <strong>of</strong> Piping Plovers this year, possibly due to<br />
disturbance from high levels <strong>of</strong> kiteboarding very close<br />
to <strong>the</strong> roost location. What is usually considered a low<br />
impact activity may be significant in deterring roosting in<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rwise preferred areas.<br />
What to do to enhance bird conservation<br />
There is definitely a need to enhance habitats and bird<br />
conservation in TCI. If we want this endangered and<br />
threatened bird to continue to visit TCI’s shores, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is a need to address <strong>the</strong> deterioration and destruction <strong>of</strong><br />
important bird habitats.<br />
The coastal dune habitats need to be protected at all<br />
times. Stay on boardwalks and existing trails when possible.<br />
When walking with your pets on a beach or in o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
natural areas, please keep your pet leashed to prevent<br />
disturbing nesting, roosting, or foraging birds. It might<br />
be better not to bring your dog(s) into bird nesting areas<br />
at all because it is known that birds have much fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
flight distances for dogs than humans. The mere presence<br />
<strong>of</strong> even leashed dogs in nesting areas can cause<br />
problems (allowing dogs to play at chasing birds is especially<br />
problematic). The wrack lines should not be raked<br />
up, manually or o<strong>the</strong>rwise. The debris in <strong>the</strong> wrack lines<br />
is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important areas <strong>of</strong> a living beach’s<br />
food web. Man-made trash should be removed but natural<br />
debris makes <strong>the</strong> beach healthy.<br />
Support plans to include important bird areas/<br />
habitats in <strong>the</strong> Protected Areas System. Also, support<br />
government or non-government initiatives to protect <strong>the</strong><br />
natural resources and wildlife <strong>of</strong> TCI.<br />
If you want to take part in various activities that will<br />
promote environmental sustainability, including bird conservation,<br />
please contact DECR at environment@gov.tc. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 33
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Little Water Cay in <strong>the</strong> Princess Alexandra Nature Reserve is known for its healthy Caicos Rock Iguana population.<br />
In Safe Hands<br />
Protected areas keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature.”<br />
Story & Photos By Amy Avenant, DECR Environment Outreach Coordinator<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> boast a vast system <strong>of</strong> protected areas. So vast, that almost 45% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />
biodiversity falls under some form <strong>of</strong> conservation status. Protected areas are very important to<br />
both <strong>the</strong> biodiversity and economy <strong>of</strong> a country as <strong>the</strong>y restrict human interaction with <strong>the</strong>se areas as<br />
well as conserve <strong>the</strong>m, so that <strong>the</strong>y can continue performing <strong>the</strong>ir vital ecological roles (and allow TCI<br />
to remain “Beautiful by Nature.”)<br />
34 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have a total <strong>of</strong> 10 National<br />
Parks, 12 Nature Reserves, 4 Sanctuaries, and 7 Areas<br />
<strong>of</strong> Historical Interest. Princess Alexandra National Park,<br />
which encompasses world-famous Grace Bay Beach, is<br />
probably <strong>the</strong> country’s most well-known protected area.<br />
National Parks are areas that have been set aside<br />
for ecosystem and biological conservation, but permit<br />
public recreation, although not without very important<br />
etiquette, rules and regulations! Nature Reserves are<br />
designated for conservation, however activities enjoyed<br />
in <strong>the</strong>se areas are restricted to low levels <strong>of</strong> recreation<br />
such as camping, fishing and sailing. Sanctuaries enjoy<br />
a far more strict set <strong>of</strong> rules, as <strong>the</strong>y were established<br />
primarily for <strong>the</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong> protection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> natural<br />
ecology, protecting a particular terrestrial and/or marine<br />
organism, as well as limiting <strong>the</strong> disturbance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area<br />
by humans.<br />
To ensure that you interact with nature in an appropriate<br />
way, here are some rules and etiquette:<br />
• DO remove all your trash including cigarette butts. Be<br />
mindful <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind blowing trash into <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
• DO stay on <strong>the</strong> walkways to avoid walking on sand<br />
dunes and watch out for iguana burrows on <strong>the</strong> cays.<br />
• DO NOT feed wildlife including fish, birds, and reptiles.<br />
• DO use biodegradable suntan lotion whenever possible<br />
and allow time for all lotions to soak into <strong>the</strong> skin before<br />
going into <strong>the</strong> ocean. Suntan lotion is toxic to <strong>the</strong> reefs.<br />
• DO NOT touch, stand on or kick <strong>the</strong> coral; it is a living<br />
animal and you will harm it.<br />
• AVOID kicking sand with your fins when snorkelling so<br />
that fine particles do not smo<strong>the</strong>r and choke living coral.<br />
• A permit issued by <strong>the</strong> DECR is required for any bonfire<br />
or social function on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
• IT IS ILLEGAL to remove corals, sand, shells and wildlife,<br />
whe<strong>the</strong>r dead or alive, from <strong>the</strong> Protected Areas.<br />
• Anyone who wants to export more than three Queen<br />
Conch shells must apply for a CITES (Convention on<br />
International Trade in Endangered Species) export permit<br />
through <strong>the</strong> DECR.<br />
• For your safety, please swim within <strong>the</strong> “swim zone”<br />
(within 300 feet <strong>of</strong> shore).<br />
• IT IS ILLEGAL to fish in protected areas such as National<br />
Parks and Nature Reserves. This includes “catch and<br />
release” fishing or hunting for conch and lobsters.<br />
• For fishing licenses, please apply through <strong>the</strong> DECR.<br />
• Use <strong>of</strong> jet skis, hovercraft and water skis are permitted<br />
only in demarcated ski zones.<br />
• Visiting a Sanctuary is only allowed with written permission<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> DECR.<br />
• Please report to <strong>the</strong> DECR if you witness your boat captain<br />
anchoring on coral reefs or sea grass beds.<br />
• Please make sure your “fresh conch salad” does not<br />
come from <strong>the</strong> National Park!<br />
List <strong>of</strong> TCI Protected Areas<br />
National Parks:<br />
• Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea National Park,<br />
South Caicos<br />
• Chalk Sound National Park, Providenciales<br />
• Columbus Landfall Marine National Park, Grand Turk<br />
• Conch Bar Caves National Park, Middle Caicos<br />
• East Bay <strong>Islands</strong> National Park, North Caicos<br />
• Fort George Land and Sea National Park<br />
• Grand Turk Cays Land and Sea National Park:<br />
Gibbs, Penniston and Martin Alonza Pinzon Cays<br />
• North West Point Marine National Park, Providenciales<br />
• Princess Alexandra National Park, Providenciales<br />
• South Creek National Park, Grand Turk<br />
• West Caicos Marine National Park<br />
Nature Reserves:<br />
• Admiral Cockburn Nature Reserve, Long Cay,<br />
Six Hill Cays, Middleton Cay<br />
• Bell Sound Nature Reserve, South Caicos<br />
• Cottage Pond Nature Reserve, North Caicos<br />
• Dick Hill Creek and Bellefield Landing Pond Nature<br />
Reserve, North Caicos<br />
• Lake Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Nature Reserve, West Caicos<br />
• North, Middle and East Caicos Nature Reserve<br />
(International Ramsar Site)<br />
• North West Point Pond Nature Reserve, Providenciales<br />
• Pigeon Pond and Frenchman’s Creek Nature Reserve,<br />
Providenciales<br />
• Princess Alexandra Nature Reserve, Providenciales,<br />
Little Water, Mangrove and Donna Cays<br />
• Pumpkin Bluff Pond Nature Reserve, North Caicos<br />
• Vine Point (Man O’War Bush) and Ocean Hole Nature<br />
Reserve, Middle Caicos<br />
Sanctuaries:<br />
• Big Sand Cay Sanctuary;<br />
• French, Bush and Seal Cays Sanctuary<br />
• Long Cay Sanctuary<br />
• Three Mary Cays Sanctuary a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 35
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
An assortment <strong>of</strong> plants grown in RBG Kew’s Tropical Nursery from TCI seed includes, clockwise from left: Bahama love-grass Eragrostis<br />
bahamensis; two Brace’s broom Evolvulus bracei (both Lucayan Archipelago endemics); and two dwarf morning glories Evolvulus alsinoides<br />
all demonstrate lush growth and larger size in <strong>the</strong> less harsh conditions.<br />
Two Kews<br />
TCI’s native plants are a long way from home.<br />
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist<br />
It is a plant fanatic’s dream—away from <strong>the</strong> exhibition greenhouses and behind <strong>the</strong> public barriers, <strong>the</strong><br />
walk through <strong>the</strong> glass-walled corridor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tropical Plant Nursery at <strong>the</strong> Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew<br />
in London passes by huge glasshouse rooms keyed to <strong>the</strong> climate <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> plants <strong>the</strong>y hold.<br />
Several rooms each <strong>of</strong> orchids and ferns, a gigantic collection <strong>of</strong> Aroids, succulents and cacti, aquatic<br />
plants, and countless conservation projects are tidy but full.<br />
36 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Far more densely packed than exhibition gardens can<br />
be, this area is Kew Gardens’ filing cabinet, an <strong>of</strong>f-season<br />
warehouse, a horticultural hoard. Tropical plants<br />
from <strong>the</strong> far<strong>the</strong>st reaches <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world are held here.<br />
Some represent nearly <strong>the</strong> entire population <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir species—indeed,<br />
some plants have been saved from wild<br />
extinction by <strong>the</strong>ir presence here. All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are here<br />
for conservation, research, or display in RBG Kew’s opento-<strong>the</strong>-public<br />
glasshouses, like <strong>the</strong> incomparable Princess<br />
<strong>of</strong> Wales Conservatory (P.O.W.), <strong>the</strong> antique Palm House,<br />
or <strong>the</strong> majestic Temperate Glasshouse.<br />
But here in <strong>the</strong> humble, flat Tropical Nursery, plants<br />
don’t sit in <strong>the</strong> spotlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> public displays with largeprint<br />
nameplates and ample elbow room. Here <strong>the</strong>y lurk in<br />
mobs, <strong>the</strong>ir embossed-metal ID tags partially obscured by<br />
<strong>the</strong> foliage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>the</strong>ir neighbours, each hiding<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir name as would any stranger in a crowd. It takes<br />
time to introduce oneself to <strong>the</strong> collection, individually.<br />
Some announce who <strong>the</strong>y are to botanists by means <strong>of</strong><br />
character traits or reputation. A gigantic, blood-red spa<strong>the</strong><br />
flower without any leaves wafts out a putrid stench—Ugh,<br />
that has to be an Amorphophallus, <strong>the</strong> botanist thinks.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r odoriferous one with spidery tentacles, growing<br />
from what looks like a sprouted onion stuck to a piece <strong>of</strong><br />
bark, makes its greeter recoil, <strong>the</strong> botanical brain scolding<br />
curiosity: You know Bulbophyllum orchids can smell<br />
like death in a sewer . . . why would you sniff it?<br />
There are famous plants here: Giant Victoria amazonica<br />
water lilies in plunge-pool vats, huge titan arums with<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir single, purple-spotted umbrella-like leaf spreading a<br />
metre wide, and Darwin’s orchid (<strong>the</strong> one with <strong>the</strong> exceptionally<br />
long nectar tube which made Darwin correctly<br />
surmise <strong>the</strong> later discovery <strong>of</strong> a preposterously longtongued<br />
moth that pollinated it). The celebrity plants are<br />
here, <strong>of</strong>ten out <strong>of</strong> hair and makeup, in between public<br />
appearances, resting and recuperating for <strong>the</strong> next big<br />
bloom event.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r plants are not so celebrated. The anonymous<br />
masses reach upward toward London’s less-than-tropical<br />
light in a tangle <strong>of</strong> photosyn<strong>the</strong>tic optimism, a jungle-crowd<br />
organised on shelves and stands by family,<br />
genus, and species, filed in rooms by ecosystem <strong>of</strong> origin,<br />
awaiting <strong>the</strong> dedicated care <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> horticulturists who<br />
look after <strong>the</strong>m. In one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se rooms, on a less-than-assuming<br />
bench, grouped among o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean plants,<br />
sits <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> collection. Several spe-<br />
From top: In <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery, Bermudian colleague Alison<br />
Copeland samples <strong>the</strong> horrific odour <strong>of</strong> an Amorphophallus lily.<br />
TCI’s popular medicinal tree mauby Colubrina elliptica is shown by<br />
<strong>the</strong> author, growing well in <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 37
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
From left: An assortment <strong>of</strong> orchids rests in <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery. When <strong>the</strong>y bloom, <strong>the</strong>y may be moved into <strong>the</strong> public display glasshouses.<br />
The snapdragon vine Maurandya anthrhinniflora growing in a pair <strong>of</strong> two-inch pots displays an unprecedented potential rarely realised in TCI.<br />
cies, grown from seed tested for germination by Kew’s<br />
Millennium Seed Bank, sit neatly spaced awaiting hopeful<br />
inclusion in <strong>the</strong> limited space <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> public glasshouses.<br />
Not all will achieve this stardom—<strong>the</strong> competition is<br />
fierce—but to <strong>the</strong>ir keepers, <strong>the</strong>y are every bit as dear<br />
even behind <strong>the</strong> scenes. Their siblings, which are still<br />
seeds, are now stored for long-term conservation in <strong>the</strong><br />
Millennium Seed Bank’s deep underground freezers,<br />
lying in wait to be used to save <strong>the</strong> species should some<br />
catastrophe befall wild populations.<br />
But <strong>the</strong>y have o<strong>the</strong>r siblings as well. Seeds from most<br />
conservation collections made in TCI are split before <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are shipped to <strong>the</strong> United Kingdom, and a small share<br />
goes to <strong>the</strong> Native Plant Conservation Nursery at <strong>the</strong><br />
Government Agricultural Station in Kew, North Caicos.<br />
There, <strong>the</strong>y live in a ramshackle, breezy shade-house<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than a coddling glasshouse. They are protected<br />
from too much sun by shade-cloth, ra<strong>the</strong>r than being<br />
exposed to <strong>the</strong> transparent glass ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tropical<br />
Nursery. They tend to grow a little more tough and compact,<br />
while <strong>the</strong>ir London brethren relax into a looser,<br />
tenderer growth habit.<br />
Just like anyone who leaves <strong>the</strong>ir original home to<br />
expand <strong>the</strong>ir experiences abroad, <strong>the</strong>se plants change<br />
and develop new potential when grown in <strong>the</strong> Tropical<br />
Nursery. One, a spindly winder called snapdragon vine<br />
Maurandya antirhinniflora I remember from my youth on<br />
<strong>the</strong> roadsides <strong>of</strong> Cork Tree in Grand Turk, creeps thinly<br />
through thorny Acacia trees, flowering sparingly. Its baby<br />
blue flowers, looking like frilly little cornucopias, and<br />
sharply triangular leaves make it look like it would be a<br />
real winner in <strong>the</strong> garden if only it grew with a little more<br />
gusto. Seeing it growing in <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery verified<br />
that—even when bound in tiny pots, <strong>the</strong> lush foliage and<br />
abundant flowers, vines mounded upon <strong>the</strong>mselves, made<br />
me ask why <strong>the</strong> plant wasn’t already on public display.<br />
“This looks a lot better than that junky plastic-looking<br />
Hoya <strong>the</strong>y’ve got festooning every ledge in <strong>the</strong> P.O.W.,” I<br />
said to my colleague <strong>the</strong>re, with an upturned palm and a<br />
single raised eyebrow. In <strong>the</strong> relatively cool, humid, dim<br />
conditions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery (compared to <strong>the</strong> full<br />
sun, salty drought, and dusty tradewinds <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk)<br />
<strong>the</strong> plant can afford to relax and put on a little more<br />
body.<br />
Similarly, I recall when <strong>the</strong> San Diego Zoo’s horticulture<br />
team grew out seeds found in wild Turks & Caicos<br />
rock iguana droppings for identification for a diet study,<br />
and some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mystery seeds from Big Ambergris Cay<br />
turned out to be <strong>the</strong> National Flower, Turks & Caicos<br />
hea<strong>the</strong>r Limonium bahamense. But after six months <strong>of</strong><br />
growing in <strong>the</strong> upper 70s, humid, sunny world <strong>of</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
California’s Mediterranean climate <strong>the</strong> hea<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
normally a stiff, tough, upright scrub-brush <strong>of</strong> a plant<br />
just a hand-length high, had changed. It had grown so<br />
leggy and lax that it had to be planted in a hanging basket;<br />
its succulent stems dangled scandently, heavy under<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir own weight and turning up at <strong>the</strong> tips just enough<br />
to show some I-just-woke-up flowers, spread out along<br />
<strong>the</strong> stem. It didn’t look like a plant that had given up, it<br />
just looked like a plant so spoiled rotten from its origin<br />
in <strong>the</strong> hypersaline salt marshes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> that<br />
had become as cheerily apa<strong>the</strong>tic as a garden petunia.<br />
38 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
If some plants reach a higher potential in London’s<br />
glasshouses, o<strong>the</strong>rs struggle. In my July 2015 visit to<br />
RBG Kew’s Tropical Nursery, I came upon a few trays <strong>of</strong><br />
assorted Encyclia orchids grown from seed collected in<br />
2011 and grown in RBG Kew’s Micropropagation Unit<br />
(See “Bragging Rights,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Summer<br />
2013) being repotted in <strong>the</strong> corridor by one <strong>of</strong> RBG Kew’s<br />
Horticultural Diploma Course students. The orchids<br />
looked barely bigger than <strong>the</strong>y were on my 2013 visit,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>re were far fewer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. According to <strong>the</strong> orchid<br />
keeper, <strong>the</strong>y were experiencing a lot <strong>of</strong> problems with<br />
rot in this collection. No wonder, as <strong>the</strong>y were being held<br />
with <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Encyclia orchids in one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wet<br />
tropics orchid rooms, which <strong>the</strong>ir o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean and<br />
South American relatives appreciate. But bombarded with<br />
sprayed irrigation and time-managed misting, our TCI<br />
orchids’ substrate couldn’t dry out. While some plants<br />
enjoy being spoiled, dry tropics orchids detest it. (This is<br />
why many people find orchids so hard to keep alive—<strong>the</strong>y<br />
coddle <strong>the</strong>m to death.)<br />
My colleague and I discussed <strong>the</strong> need for an<br />
intervention, and <strong>the</strong> horticulturists asked for help in<br />
understanding <strong>the</strong> plants’ natural habitat. While <strong>the</strong> RBG<br />
Kew horticulturists do go into <strong>the</strong> field on occasion, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
don’t go everywhere <strong>the</strong>ir charges naturally grow, and so<br />
can’t be familiar with <strong>the</strong> exact wild conditions <strong>of</strong> every<br />
single one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir thousands <strong>of</strong> plants. We put toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
photos <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wild habitats <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> four species <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
growing—<strong>the</strong> dry, rocky shrubland <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tall orchid<br />
Encyclia altissima; <strong>the</strong> ridge-top limestone outcropping<br />
windswept locale <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rufous orchid Encyclia rufa;<br />
<strong>the</strong> salty leeward coastal coppice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Inagua orchid<br />
Encyclia inaguensis, and <strong>the</strong> sand-blasted low windward<br />
dune scrub <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> endemic Caicos orchid Encyclia caicensis.<br />
The decision was taken to move <strong>the</strong> plantlets into<br />
a different room for awhile, giving <strong>the</strong>m brighter light,<br />
warmer temperatures, more air movement, and far less<br />
humidity and water.<br />
The mature orchids may well be rotated into <strong>the</strong><br />
Princess <strong>of</strong> Wales Conservatory’s dry tropics orchid<br />
room when <strong>the</strong>y bloom, as is <strong>the</strong> routine. Blooming potted<br />
orchids are shifted into glass display cases in <strong>the</strong><br />
orchid rooms, <strong>the</strong>n traded back to <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery<br />
for replacements when <strong>the</strong>ir blooms acquiesce. They will<br />
get <strong>the</strong>ir chance at a spot in stardom for <strong>the</strong>ir blooming<br />
weeks.<br />
B Naqqi Manco (TCI) and Richard Taylor (RBG Kew) hold trays <strong>of</strong><br />
Encyclia orchid seedlings grown from seed collected in North and<br />
Middle Caicos in 2001.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r plants from Turks & Caicos are waiting in line<br />
for <strong>the</strong> completion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Temperate House refurbishment.<br />
Lots <strong>of</strong> specimens throughout <strong>the</strong> Tropical Nursery<br />
are up for this audition. Space is limited; selection will<br />
be cut-throat. Only <strong>the</strong> best-looking, most botanically<br />
representative plants will be selected. Our colleagues in<br />
<strong>the</strong> United Kingdom Overseas Territories Programme at<br />
RBG Kew are working hard to nudge our plants, as well<br />
as those from o<strong>the</strong>r UKOTs, to <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> display.<br />
Exhibiting <strong>the</strong> plants brings awareness to <strong>the</strong> conservation<br />
issues in <strong>the</strong> Territories, and to <strong>the</strong> Territories<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves, in an outside world where we are largely forgotten.<br />
I anxiously await <strong>the</strong> day I can tell homesick Turks<br />
& Caicos Islander students in London universities that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y can visit a touch <strong>of</strong> home in <strong>the</strong> glasshouses at Kew<br />
Gardens. Until <strong>the</strong>n our plants, botanical ambassadors to<br />
<strong>the</strong> political centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kingdom, lurk in <strong>the</strong> masses,<br />
unaware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dry, salty, bright conditions from whence<br />
<strong>the</strong>y came. Plant communication is a new and hotly<br />
debated topic <strong>of</strong> study, but I wonder what each species<br />
would write home to <strong>the</strong>ir families about <strong>the</strong>ir new lives<br />
abroad. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 39
feature<br />
MARISA FINDLAY PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Opposite page: Manny Missick surveys one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fields at his Green Acre Farm in Bottle Creek, North Caicos. He concentrates on <strong>the</strong> quality<br />
and volume that enables him to supply <strong>the</strong> IGA grocery store on Providenciales with okra, papaya, peppers and o<strong>the</strong>r fruits and vegetables.<br />
Above: Franky Adames plants seedlings at Island Farms in Kew Town, Providenciales, where produce, eggs and meat are raised.<br />
A Tough Row to Hoe<br />
Farming in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
By Jody Rathgeb<br />
TOM RATHGEB<br />
Sometimes a cliché is <strong>the</strong> most concise way to express a truth. This is certainly <strong>the</strong> case when it comes<br />
to farming in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: It’s a tough row to hoe!<br />
The saying has always been true for <strong>the</strong>se rocky, mostly dry islands. In 1993, former Minister <strong>of</strong><br />
Health and Agriculture Nicky Turner wrote in this magazine, “For nearly 200 years <strong>the</strong> women and men<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se islands have wrenched food from <strong>the</strong> clasp <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> inhospitable soil under conditions which would<br />
make a lesser people despair.” Turner has now joined <strong>the</strong> small group <strong>of</strong> TCI farmers who continue that<br />
“wrenching” and hope to bring <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> into a future <strong>of</strong> self-sustaining agriculture.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 41
Four operations in particular work on <strong>the</strong> cusp <strong>of</strong> commercial<br />
agriculture. In addition to Turner’s Island Farms<br />
near Kew Town on Providenciales, Courtney Missick continues<br />
to grow fruits, vegetables and landscape plants in<br />
Kew on North Caicos; at Green Acres Farm in Bottle Creek,<br />
North Caicos, Manny Missick employs 10 people on a<br />
large spread that was formerly a sisal farm; and Island<br />
Fresh Produce represents a full-out commercial operation<br />
in hydroponic farming <strong>of</strong>f South Dock Road in Provo.<br />
The focus at each farm is different. Courtney Missick<br />
has in <strong>the</strong> past emphasized landscape farming, <strong>the</strong>n pigs,<br />
<strong>the</strong>n an organic chickens and vegetables expansion, but<br />
has more recently settled on his chickens, fruits and vegetables.<br />
“My calling is to feed and represent,” he says,<br />
referring also to his politics-oriented talk show on local<br />
television station PTV-8 every Tuesday night and inde-<br />
JODY RATHGEB<br />
pendent candidacy in <strong>the</strong> December 2016 TCI elections.<br />
Although he has been farming since he was young, he<br />
says most agriculture in <strong>the</strong> TCI is still primarily subsistence<br />
farming. “What’s keeping me alive is supplying IGA<br />
[supermarket on Provo]” with hot peppers, callaloo, okra<br />
and fruits. He believes that it is time for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to<br />
move to <strong>the</strong> next level, which is commercial farming.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end <strong>of</strong> North Caicos, Manny Missick has<br />
for eight years concentrated on quality and consistency in<br />
organic gardening to supply <strong>the</strong> Graceway IGA on Provo<br />
with okra, bananas, peppers and o<strong>the</strong>r fruits and vegetables.<br />
The 83-year-old started Green Acres Farm after<br />
a full career in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas and TCI government work,<br />
commenting, “This is taking it easy. There’s nothing<br />
I love more than planting and seeing what comes up.”<br />
His hard work is focused on providing a viable business<br />
for his grandsons and expanding <strong>the</strong> operations with<br />
more cleared land, an irrigation pond and expansion into<br />
medicinal plants.<br />
At Island Fresh Produce, run by Ian Harrison and his<br />
partner, Jan Brown, hydroponic farming presents a different<br />
set <strong>of</strong> challenges. Because <strong>the</strong> plants are grown<br />
in a medium o<strong>the</strong>r than soil (fertilized water, with <strong>the</strong><br />
plants supported by cord when young and granite gravel<br />
when older), success depends on water quality and more<br />
infrastructure. Looking more like a small factory than a<br />
traditional farm, Island Fresh has its own reverse-osmosis<br />
plant for converting seawater, tanks that add up to 17 fertilizers<br />
in <strong>the</strong> proper proportions for each type <strong>of</strong> plant,<br />
and screened structure with concrete troughs to hold <strong>the</strong><br />
plants. Yet Harrison notes that, as in traditional farming,<br />
future success depends on dealing with <strong>the</strong> climate,<br />
insects and <strong>the</strong> costs <strong>of</strong> a labour-intensive business.<br />
From top: Longtime farmer Courtney Missick grows fruits, vegetables<br />
and landscape plants in Kew, North Caicos.<br />
Ian Harrison uses a small hydroponics set-up at his Provo home for<br />
personal and experimental use for his larger operation.<br />
Liz and Nicky Turner see <strong>the</strong>ir small farm near Kew Town in<br />
Providenciales as a lifestyle decision.<br />
TOM RATHGEB<br />
TOM RATHGEB<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
Nicky Turner also has his eye on <strong>the</strong> future, in a<br />
slightly different way. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reasons he and his wife,<br />
Liz, started Island Farms was to give <strong>the</strong>ir sons a life that<br />
is connected with <strong>the</strong> land. “It’s primarily quality <strong>of</strong> life,”<br />
he says. The farm is a second business for him; his primary<br />
business, Blue Loos septic services, is still paying<br />
<strong>the</strong> bills for now. Yet <strong>the</strong> farm is ambitious. With <strong>the</strong> help<br />
<strong>of</strong> Frankie Adames, a Dominican national who looks after<br />
<strong>the</strong> daily work, and contract labourers, <strong>the</strong> Turners have<br />
added animal husbandry to <strong>the</strong>ir operation. They have<br />
chickens, pigs, goats, rabbits and ducks, and at <strong>the</strong> end<br />
<strong>of</strong> 2016 were in <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> building a “proper piggery”<br />
with a breeding area and slaughterhouse.<br />
Both Missicks had piggeries in <strong>the</strong> past, but both<br />
have discontinued those operations, because feeding is<br />
costly and marketing difficult. Turner shares <strong>the</strong>ir woes—<br />
he knows he can’t begin to sell his pigs until he can get<br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture certification—but is optimistic.<br />
Yet such problems are only <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problems<br />
that face <strong>the</strong> TCI farmer. For any farm to be viable<br />
as a business, costs must be controlled and <strong>the</strong>re must<br />
be enough volume and demand to make a pr<strong>of</strong>it. The<br />
farmers find that growing plants and animals is difficult<br />
but not impossible; what’s needed is better education<br />
and government support.<br />
Eggs come from chickens, not cartons<br />
It has been so long that Islanders have been heading to<br />
<strong>the</strong> grocery stores for imported foods, many seem to<br />
have forgotten <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> agriculture in giving<br />
a nation self-sufficiency. Manny Missick points out that<br />
during World War II, when food imports to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
were halted, <strong>the</strong> farms <strong>of</strong> North and Middle Caicos were<br />
able to feed <strong>the</strong> nation. Would <strong>the</strong> same be true today?<br />
Dependency on foreign foods has led to consumers who<br />
prefer pretty but tasteless tomatoes over fresh, local produce<br />
that might not look as attractive.<br />
Courtney Missick comments that some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> health<br />
issues that plague <strong>the</strong> country today can be traced to a<br />
reliance on processed foods, and says he believes that<br />
as people come to understand <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> organic, local<br />
food <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> agriculture will grow. “If you want to<br />
live, you have to change your diet,” he warns.<br />
Turner adds that good food—that is, food that is<br />
good for you because it doesn’t come from chemically-enhanced<br />
fields or factory farms—comes at a price.<br />
For example, it takes longer for an organically-raised<br />
chicken to reach market size, which is <strong>the</strong> reason it costs<br />
more than one held in inhumane conditions and fattened<br />
Chickens, goats and pigs are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> animals raised for food on<br />
Turks & Caicos farms.<br />
TOM RATHGEB ELIZABETH TURNER<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 43
TOM RATHGEB<br />
JODY RATHGEB<br />
Left: The Turners turned Kew Town property Nicky had owned for 20 years into a farm to provide produce, eggs and meat. As La Finca<br />
Marketing, Blue Loos_Layout <strong>the</strong>y sell 1 to 2/9/16 <strong>the</strong> Quality 2:47 PM Supermarket Page 1 and Sunny Foods stores on Providenciales.<br />
Right: At Island Fresh Produce’s commercial operation <strong>of</strong>f South Dock Road, a “field” <strong>of</strong> mint is ready to become mojitos for tourists.<br />
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Eco Friendly<br />
quickly on a hormone-laced diet. He and Liz, he says, can<br />
break even by selling <strong>the</strong>ir eggs at Provo supermarkets<br />
for $5 a dozen. “At $5.50, we would make a pr<strong>of</strong>it,” but<br />
only those who understand <strong>the</strong> difference between a truly<br />
fresh egg and a weeks-old one from a Florida farm would<br />
pay that price.<br />
Harrison agrees that <strong>the</strong> economics <strong>of</strong> farming are<br />
little understood. “Any business in horticulture or agriculture<br />
is capital-intensive, labour-intensive, and you get<br />
hammered on tariffs,” he says. “The cost <strong>of</strong> getting things<br />
going is unbelievable, and <strong>the</strong> returns are small.”<br />
The farmers agree, too, that education about agriculture<br />
should extend to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ young people, since<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are both future consumers and future farmers. In <strong>the</strong><br />
United States, older people <strong>of</strong>ten lament that children are<br />
no longer given field trips to farms and dairies, so <strong>the</strong>y<br />
don’t know where food comes from. The same is true in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Also, getting young people interested<br />
in agriculture as a career starts with knowledge <strong>of</strong> where<br />
food comes from. “It’s hard to sell agriculture to young<br />
people,” says Courtney Missick. “How can you learn to<br />
play a keyboard if you never even saw one? We need to<br />
show <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> reality <strong>of</strong> growing food.” He advocates<br />
technical schools and tutorial farms.<br />
44 www.timespub.tc
Government help<br />
Occasionally, even members <strong>of</strong> government need to be<br />
taught those lessons. Turner recalls a moment in <strong>the</strong> past<br />
when he commented that <strong>the</strong> TCI could run out <strong>of</strong> food.<br />
“[The minister] said, ‘Well, we’d just go buy more at <strong>the</strong><br />
store.’” As much as <strong>the</strong> farmers have learned and know<br />
about soil enhancement, irrigation, pest control and<br />
labour requirements, <strong>the</strong>ir knowledge is easily thwarted<br />
by policies based on “business as usual,” i.e., importing<br />
food. What do <strong>the</strong>y believe government can do to help?<br />
Plenty.<br />
Manny Missick looks around his North Caicos farm<br />
and sees plenty <strong>of</strong> private land, prime farming land, lying<br />
fallow. He says a smart government would “ei<strong>the</strong>r tax it or<br />
use it.” The government farm in Kew is just a baby step,<br />
in his opinion. Speaking prior to <strong>the</strong> December elections,<br />
he commented, “If <strong>the</strong>y don’t get someone involved in<br />
farming, <strong>the</strong>y would be <strong>the</strong> biggest fool ever. We know<br />
where <strong>the</strong> good farmland is and what <strong>the</strong> water table is.<br />
Give a peppercorn lease and get some people involved in<br />
serious farming.”<br />
Government investment can help, notes Courtney<br />
Missick. “We need new farmers, technical people, specialists,”<br />
he says. “In order to move to a commercial scale,<br />
you need serious capital investment. You need equipment,<br />
and you need whatever it takes to get in foreign<br />
labour.” He has tried <strong>the</strong> private-partner route; in 2014 he<br />
began Isaac’s Organic Farms along <strong>the</strong> Kew-Whitby road<br />
as a collaboration with Beaches Resort and a Canadian<br />
investor, but <strong>the</strong> commitments fell <strong>of</strong>f and he pulled back<br />
to his original Kew operation. Without government subsidies,<br />
he says, farms will fail.<br />
Turner gets even more specific, ticking <strong>of</strong>f a farming<br />
“wish list” from <strong>the</strong> government: “Free work permits. No<br />
duty on agricultural imports. A break on electric rates.”<br />
These moves, all short <strong>of</strong> direct subsidies, could truly<br />
jump-start <strong>the</strong> agricultural industry.<br />
And why not consider subsidy? Harrison points out<br />
that <strong>the</strong> food TCI imports comes from countries that have<br />
invested in agriculture. “Every o<strong>the</strong>r nation gets its agriculture<br />
subsidized,” he states.<br />
To be fair, Harrison adds, some in government understand<br />
<strong>the</strong> problems and are doing what <strong>the</strong>y can. He<br />
praises Wilhelmina Kissoonsingh, <strong>the</strong> current director <strong>of</strong><br />
agriculture, for being “plugged in” and for understanding<br />
that agriculture here is no longer “six hens in someone’s<br />
backyard.”<br />
Farming on <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong> has never been easy, but<br />
with new knowledge and rising interest in <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong><br />
From top: Frankie Adames and Louines Logis are vital to keeping <strong>the</strong><br />
Turners’ farm running, especially as <strong>the</strong>y have branched out to animal<br />
husbandry.<br />
<strong>the</strong> foods we eat, it has become better. Yet <strong>the</strong> row to<br />
<strong>the</strong> next level is still a hard one to hoe, dependent on<br />
education and a more concerted desire for <strong>the</strong> success <strong>of</strong><br />
commercial, self-sustaining agriculture. The farmers want<br />
to get to work. a<br />
ELIZABETH TURNER<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 45
Pre-Summer Looks from<br />
Emerald <strong>Islands</strong><br />
The <strong>of</strong>ficial resortwear <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Fashion By Jeritt Williams<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 47
Male models: Abdel Dormeus<br />
and Selvano Gardiner<br />
Female model: Mitiana Simon<br />
Make-up: Latoya Kitten<br />
Photographer: Ora Hasenfratz<br />
Assistant: Lejla Gerber<br />
Location: Turks & Caicos<br />
Junkanoo Museum,<br />
Downtown Providenciales
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 49
island hopping<br />
Opposite page: This secluded basin just <strong>of</strong>f Little Ambergris Cay encircles <strong>the</strong> author’s 34-foot catamaran in warm emerald-green waters.<br />
Above: Valentine’s Day on Little Ambergris Cay was <strong>the</strong> romantic setting for a proposal <strong>of</strong> marriage.<br />
Valentine’s Day Surprise<br />
A special “proposal” on Little Ambergris Cay.<br />
Story & Photos By Katie Gutteridge<br />
Somehow, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have managed to stay quiet in <strong>the</strong> world <strong>of</strong> sailing. Cruisers are<br />
ei<strong>the</strong>r fixated on staying in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas or are racing ahead to get to <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>. We always knew,<br />
when we bought a sailboat, it would have to be a catamaran. The reason? It would be a perfect fit for <strong>the</strong><br />
waters right here.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 51
All winter we’ve explored. We’ve seen <strong>the</strong> flamingos<br />
in South Caicos, snorkelled with a whale and its<br />
calf in Salt Cay, meandered along Duke Street in Grand<br />
Turk. Each island has had its own unique characteristics<br />
and given us incredible experiences, which we<br />
don’t believe we would have found elsewhere in <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean.<br />
But in February 2016, I think we found <strong>the</strong> icing on<br />
<strong>the</strong> cake. It is Little Ambergris Cay, where <strong>the</strong> shallow<br />
banks stretch to <strong>the</strong> horizon and water a bright duckegg<br />
blue is specked with stingrays. It is several miles<br />
to <strong>the</strong> nearest island—Big Ambergris Cay, where only<br />
non-human residents live.<br />
We managed to sneak into a bay so secluded it<br />
felt as though <strong>the</strong> last people to have visited could<br />
well have been pirates. Its narrow entrance passage<br />
is around 3 feet deep, but once inside, a basin perfectly<br />
fit for our 34-foot catamaran encircles us in 10<br />
foot depths <strong>of</strong> warm emerald-green waters. The grassy<br />
floor below attracts an array <strong>of</strong> inquisitive creatures,<br />
including a nurse shark who saunters past but doesn’t<br />
stay too long. Later, a dozen squid line up in a perfect<br />
row, facing <strong>the</strong> boat. They swim in perfect symmetry<br />
towards and away from our vessel, getting <strong>the</strong> courage<br />
each time to edge a little closer, wondering what on<br />
earth has arrived on <strong>the</strong>ir patch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
At sunset, bonefish tails skim <strong>the</strong> surface over by<br />
<strong>the</strong> mangroves and at sunrise a hummingbird hovers<br />
outside our door, attracted by <strong>the</strong> shimmering gold<br />
and pink fishing lures left hanging to dry in <strong>the</strong> sun by<br />
<strong>the</strong> winch-handle holder.<br />
The beach is just as you’d expect for a deserted<br />
island—as white as pearls, as s<strong>of</strong>t as icing powder.<br />
Despite being <strong>the</strong> epitome <strong>of</strong> a place to relax, I’m<br />
seduced into exploring its every inch. A short 10 minute<br />
walk reveals 21 pristine sand dollars—no wonder<br />
<strong>the</strong> sand is so white. I stop collecting <strong>the</strong>m, as <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are too many to carry.<br />
Having already spent two weeks away from land<br />
while exploring <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands, we’re running short<br />
<strong>of</strong> everything. Water, food and gas are worryingly low.<br />
But we’re not ready to leave this paradise we’ve only<br />
just discovered. We ration more than ever before, even<br />
turning <strong>of</strong>f our fridge to conserve <strong>the</strong> gas only for<br />
cooking. Luckily, we have a freezer that runs on 12<br />
volts, so <strong>the</strong> little food left goes straight in <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
One afternoon we head out several miles to a shipwreck<br />
to try bottom-fishing for our dinner. It starts<br />
slow, <strong>the</strong> only action is <strong>the</strong> seagulls that keep fleeing<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir perches on <strong>the</strong> rusty wreck every time <strong>the</strong> osprey<br />
circles above. As <strong>the</strong>y all settle down we get our first<br />
bite. Half an hour later and we’re heading back to <strong>the</strong><br />
bay with a healthy helping <strong>of</strong> yellowtail snapper, triggerfish<br />
and a grouper. We plan to cook <strong>the</strong> snapper<br />
that night on a beach bonfire.<br />
As we collected <strong>the</strong> wood for that evening’s fire I<br />
realise that it’s Valentine’s Day. “This will be <strong>the</strong> most<br />
romantic Valentine’s Day I’ve ever had,” I think as I<br />
drag a large branch across <strong>the</strong> beach to a spot right<br />
on <strong>the</strong> tip <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sandbar; a perfect sunset viewpoint<br />
with our boat as <strong>the</strong> foreground. We head back to <strong>the</strong><br />
boat, grab some sparkling wine we’d saved for a special<br />
occasion and head back out on <strong>the</strong> dinghy.<br />
With <strong>the</strong> fire mimicking <strong>the</strong> orangey-red <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> setting<br />
sun, my partner Andy hugs his arms around my<br />
waist as he turns me toward him, and I start to feel an<br />
unusual energy about this moment. “There’s only one<br />
thing left to say . . . will you marry me?” he asks nervously<br />
as he bends down on one knee. “Of course I’ll<br />
marry you!” I say as a tear rolls down my cheek and I<br />
try to recover from <strong>the</strong> shock. We hug each o<strong>the</strong>r tight<br />
and kiss in celebration.<br />
“I was going to buy you a ring but I spent <strong>the</strong> money<br />
on two new engines instead,” he jokes as I reach to<br />
top-up our fizz. (I had been wondering about <strong>the</strong> ring!)<br />
But in typical Andy style, he’d been trying to fashion<br />
me a ring out <strong>of</strong> a conch shell, which unfortunately<br />
had proven far too tricky to handle. All <strong>of</strong> a sudden<br />
<strong>the</strong> flight back home to England seemed much more<br />
appealing, now that we’d be making an unexpected<br />
stop in New York for a ring along <strong>the</strong> way! a<br />
Katie Gutteridge is a freelance writer who has been visiting<br />
TCI for almost a decade. Unfortunately, she won’t<br />
be getting married in Turks & Caicos, as she’s planning<br />
a large wedding party at home with friends and family.<br />
For more information on her business, Creative Copy<br />
Kate, visit creativecopykate.weebly.com.<br />
52 www.timespub.tc
Visit<br />
THE CAICOS CONCH FARM<br />
WE GROW<br />
CONCH & FISH<br />
Monday - Friday: 9am - 4pm<br />
Saturday: 9am - 2.30pm<br />
Closed: Sundays<br />
Adults $12.00<br />
Children $10.00<br />
Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales<br />
Phone: (649) 946-5330
feature<br />
Opposite page: Based at Leeward-Going-Through, Blue Haven Marina has as its backdrop Mangrove Cay, part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Princess Alexandra Nature<br />
Reserve, and <strong>the</strong> sparkling waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Above: For much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year from November to May, <strong>the</strong> popular marina is nearly full to capacity.<br />
A Warm Welcome<br />
Blue Haven Marina attracts <strong>the</strong> international yachting crowd.<br />
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy Blue Haven Marina<br />
The scene is quite like a James Bond movie—sleek, luxurious, behemoth vessels moored to massive<br />
floating docks. One mega-yacht sports a helicopter pad and car; ano<strong>the</strong>r an on-deck pool and submarine.<br />
Crew attend to <strong>the</strong> boats with <strong>the</strong> care given to a queen. Yet ra<strong>the</strong>r than a stark cityscape, <strong>the</strong>se pampered<br />
leviathans bob in a backdrop <strong>of</strong> sky-blue, verdant green and a sparkling turquoise blue sea. Their current<br />
home is Blue Haven Marina, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ premier international yachting anchorage.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 55
Blue Haven Marina is a hub <strong>of</strong> activity for boats large<br />
and small. Located on Providenciales’ nor<strong>the</strong>astern edge<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Leeward-Going-Through passage, <strong>the</strong> marina currently<br />
includes 100 slips (both side and stern-to) with <strong>the</strong><br />
capacity to berth yachts up to 220 feet in length and a<br />
draft <strong>of</strong> 9 feet.<br />
I visited <strong>the</strong> marina in mid-January, a busy time for<br />
General Manager Adam Foster. The facility was close to<br />
100% occupancy, which is <strong>the</strong> case for much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year<br />
from November through May. Although it was clear that<br />
Adam and Operations Manager Portia Mogal had a lot <strong>of</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>r things to attend to, <strong>the</strong>y graciously took <strong>the</strong> time to<br />
answer this landlubber’s many questions.<br />
Opened on April 2, 2013, Blue Haven Marina has<br />
been attracting <strong>the</strong> international yachting crowd from<br />
inception. This includes boats such as a 377' superyacht<br />
carrying 50 crew, 18 guests and its own gym, spa and<br />
pool! Besides <strong>of</strong>fering a private entrance and excellent<br />
security (important to boats valued as much as $80 million<br />
and <strong>of</strong>ten owned by celebrities), Blue Haven Marina<br />
staff has <strong>the</strong> “right stuff” to cater to an upscale clientele.<br />
According to Adam, a primary attraction is <strong>the</strong> same<br />
thing that land-based tourists love: <strong>the</strong> TCI’s unmatched<br />
combination <strong>of</strong> clean, clear waters, a pristine reef system,<br />
superb scuba diving and snorkeling, and private<br />
ivory sand beaches. As well, he adds, “The boaters love<br />
to explore <strong>the</strong> outer islands and cays, and we provide a<br />
variety <strong>of</strong> itineraries to use as a guide. Our location is<br />
ideal for adventure, while having amenities and services<br />
close-by.”<br />
Arriving at this <strong>of</strong>ficial port-<strong>of</strong>-entry is made easy<br />
by TCI Customs and Immigrations <strong>of</strong>ficers based at<br />
Blue Haven Marina, who work hard to make visitors feel<br />
welcome while facilitating <strong>the</strong> country’s laws and regulations.<br />
For boats that are too big to enter <strong>the</strong> channel, Blue<br />
Haven provides a yacht concierge service to help <strong>the</strong>m<br />
clear customs, re-provision and access any needs <strong>the</strong>se<br />
vessel require.<br />
Marina facilities include a state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art, high-speed<br />
fuel system, water, power up to 480v, black and grey<br />
water pump-out, cable TV, free WiFi, security, laundry<br />
services, provisioning services, showers and toilets, Salt<br />
Bar and Grill with sports screen, a business center, and<br />
outdoor activities including beach volleyball, a horseshoe<br />
pit and more.<br />
All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> amenities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Blue Haven Resort are<br />
available for boat owners, guests and crew. (See page<br />
58/59.) This includes a 51 room resort, 24-hour gym,<br />
private beach complete with hammocks swaying among<br />
palm trees and a fun water trampoline, infinity edge pool,<br />
Elevate Day Spa, Sandpiper Kid’s Club, meeting space,<br />
and Market, a grocery store and café. There are also two<br />
restaurants on-site, with a complimentary shuttle that<br />
allows boaters to dine at sister properties, Alexandra<br />
Resort and Beach House.<br />
Once boats are anchored, owners and crew are basically<br />
“on vacation,” with <strong>the</strong> time and desire to enjoy<br />
watersports, fishing, golf, touring, restaurants, nightlife<br />
and attractions—<strong>the</strong>re is definitely an impact on <strong>the</strong><br />
local economy. Blue Haven Resort works directly with<br />
supermarkets to source and supply yacht provisions and<br />
<strong>the</strong> needs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir chefs, with $30,000 grocery bills not<br />
uncommon. They also work with <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> local businesses,<br />
including taxi drivers, car rental companies, tour<br />
operators and <strong>the</strong> like to encourage exploration beyond<br />
<strong>the</strong> dock. Portia adds, “We constantly monitor our service<br />
providers to ensure <strong>the</strong>y maintain high standards.” All<br />
visitors receive an arrival and information guide that lists<br />
<strong>the</strong> best <strong>the</strong> country has to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> case where boat repairs are necessary, <strong>the</strong><br />
marina is proud to refer <strong>the</strong>m to Caribbean Marine &<br />
Diesel, a local service <strong>the</strong>y say is “world class.”<br />
When <strong>the</strong> mega-yachts leave in late spring, <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
replaced by fishing vessels on <strong>the</strong> hunt for billfish and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r game fish from May to August. The slower months<br />
<strong>of</strong> September and October gives marina staff time to<br />
repair, replace, renovate and repaint. There is also a<br />
smaller docking area behind <strong>the</strong> resort which is fully utilized<br />
by smaller local charter and pleasure boats.<br />
Blue Haven Marina is a member <strong>of</strong> Island Global<br />
Yachting (IGY), <strong>the</strong> world’s leading luxury marina and<br />
yachting lifestyle development and operations company,<br />
with a network encompassing fifteen prime destinations<br />
in seven countries. Blue Haven Marina has also been<br />
awarded <strong>the</strong> Five Gold Anchor Status (<strong>the</strong> highest rating)<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Yacht Harbour Association (TYHA), along with <strong>the</strong><br />
Clean Marina Award. Portia is especially proud <strong>of</strong> this<br />
accolade, “We are very strict about how boaters treat<br />
our pristine waters. For instance, all fuel and oil must be<br />
stored in <strong>the</strong> boats to avoid spills, all used oil must be<br />
taken away, not disposed <strong>of</strong> in TCI, we <strong>of</strong>fer in-slip sewage<br />
pump-out to minimize spillage and vessels must be<br />
cleaned with environmentally sound products.”<br />
This is especially important because Blue Haven<br />
Marina backs up against <strong>the</strong> Princess Alexandra Nature<br />
Reserve. This 450 acre protected land area encompasses<br />
nearby Little Water Cay (a.k.a. “Iguana Island”), Mangrove<br />
Cay, and Donna Cay. Much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn shore <strong>of</strong><br />
56 www.timespub.tc
Blue Haven Marina is a Five Gold Anchor Status marina, and has also been awarded <strong>the</strong> Clean Marina Award.<br />
Providenciales is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Princess Alexandra Land and<br />
Sea National Park. Included in this protected area is Grace<br />
Bay Beach, The Bight Beach, The Bight Reef, Leeward<br />
Beach, Smith’s Reef, and a large portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
barrier reef <strong>of</strong> Providenciales.<br />
In an effort to get people <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> boats and into <strong>the</strong><br />
community, IGY Marinas launched <strong>the</strong> “Inspire Giving<br />
through You” project in 2016. In late February <strong>2017</strong>, Blue<br />
Haven Marina will be teaming up with <strong>the</strong> “Extraordinary<br />
Minds Ashley’s Learning Center,” a school that caters to<br />
children with learning disabilities and who cannot attend<br />
TCI’s primary schools. Volunteers will construct an outdoor<br />
play area for <strong>the</strong> children, along with a surrounding<br />
fence to ensure <strong>the</strong>ir safety. The February 2016 community<br />
outreach project assisted <strong>the</strong> Provo Children’s Home<br />
with basic upgrades <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> facility, cleaning <strong>of</strong> interior<br />
and exterior areas, and donations <strong>of</strong> much-needed supplies.<br />
Both events were well-attended and <strong>the</strong> children’s<br />
home continues to reap donations from marina visitors.<br />
As well, <strong>the</strong> marina regularly invites children to visit <strong>the</strong><br />
property and <strong>of</strong>fers summer jobs. Blue Haven also sponsors<br />
three boats and six children’s fees to participate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> beloved Provo Sailing Club.<br />
DISTRIBUTOR FOR EVINRUDE & MERCURY<br />
OUTBOARDS, PURSUIT WORLD CLASS CAT,<br />
SUNDANCE AND BOSTON WHALER BOATS<br />
Lures and Live Bait<br />
Marine Hardware & Gear<br />
Fishing Gear & Supplies<br />
Marine Paints & Varnish<br />
Marine Batteries<br />
Sebago Docksiders<br />
& Sperry Topsiders Shoes<br />
BLUE HILLS ROAD<br />
PROVIDENCIALES<br />
TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS, B.W.I.<br />
PHONE: 649-946-4411<br />
FAX: 649-946-4945<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 57
Guests to Blue Haven Marina can relax around <strong>the</strong> canalside infinity<br />
pool.<br />
Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />
daily breakfast to government school students –<br />
starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos,<br />
Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />
We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide<br />
breakfast to one child for a whole school year.<br />
If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />
email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />
or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> visiting<br />
yachts also use <strong>the</strong> Blue<br />
Haven Resort facilities to<br />
host wedding or birthday<br />
parties, <strong>of</strong>ten utilizing<br />
local caterers, florists,<br />
DJs and party planners.<br />
The marina sponsors two<br />
major fishing tournaments<br />
in <strong>the</strong> TCI: The Wine Cellar<br />
Golf & Fishing Tournament<br />
held every March and <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos Classic IGFA Billfish<br />
Release Tournament in<br />
July.<br />
Adam and Portia have<br />
been working around<br />
<strong>the</strong> globe among <strong>the</strong><br />
small, close-knit world<br />
<strong>of</strong> luxury yachters for a<br />
combined total <strong>of</strong> nearly<br />
30 years. They have built<br />
close relationships with<br />
many international boat management companies, people<br />
responsible for planning, provisioning, running and<br />
maintaining <strong>the</strong> mega-boats for <strong>the</strong>ir owners. Through<br />
<strong>the</strong> pair’s contacts and presence at major boat shows and<br />
conferences in <strong>the</strong> US and Caribbean, <strong>the</strong>y are well positioned<br />
to encourage trips to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
In fact, Blue Haven Marina was <strong>the</strong> only TCI group<br />
to participate in <strong>the</strong> prestigious Monaco Boat Show in<br />
September 2016. Adam and Portia were very successful<br />
in attracting large vessels to visit <strong>the</strong> marina and putting<br />
TCI on <strong>the</strong> world map as a destination for <strong>the</strong> yachting<br />
industry. Besides being invited to an agency briefing with<br />
20 influential boat captains, while in Europe Adam and<br />
Portia visited marinas in France and Italy to raise awareness<br />
about TCI for vessels making <strong>the</strong> annual pilgrimage<br />
across <strong>the</strong> Atlantic and through <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.<br />
The TCI, <strong>the</strong>y say, is an easy sell. “Geographically it’s<br />
perfectly positioned as a main hub between Ft. Lauderdale<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>.” And with Blue Haven Marina’s<br />
motto <strong>of</strong> “aiming to go above and beyond expectations,”<br />
it seems that yachters have good reason to add <strong>the</strong> destination<br />
to <strong>the</strong>ir cruising itinerary. a<br />
For more information, visit www.bluehaventci.com or<br />
contact Adam Foster at afoster@bluehaventci.com or call<br />
649 946 9910.<br />
58 www.timespub.tc
Blue Haven Resort<br />
By Kathryn Brown, Director, ERA Coralie Properties<br />
The first thing that catches your eye when approaching<br />
Blue Haven Resort are its colors; you can’t help<br />
but smile as <strong>the</strong> bright hues seem to invite you to<br />
come inside. If you are arriving by sea, <strong>the</strong> contrast<br />
between <strong>the</strong> turquoise water, white sand and<br />
Caribbean-toned building is stunning. If you arrive<br />
by vehicle, a step into <strong>the</strong> reception area reveals <strong>the</strong><br />
same effect . . . you have just arrived and you want<br />
to stay forever.<br />
Kathryn<br />
Brown<br />
Director ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.<br />
Kathryn has 20 years successful<br />
experience in Caribbean Real<br />
Estate; she also benefits from<br />
knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos Real Estate Association,<br />
having been a founding member<br />
and serving as President for five<br />
years.<br />
MLS 1600582<br />
MLS 1500381<br />
From a real estate point <strong>of</strong> view <strong>the</strong> property does<br />
not need constant monologue—it speaks for itself.<br />
Blue Haven sits on a 10 acre site with approximately<br />
twr ad1.6_Layout 1 2/16/17 8:13 AM Page 1<br />
300 feet (79 meters) <strong>of</strong> beach frontage and a total<br />
<strong>of</strong> 660 feet (200 meters) <strong>of</strong> Leeward Going Through<br />
water frontage.<br />
There are 51 units, including 3 penthouse suites,<br />
one <strong>of</strong> which is currently on <strong>the</strong> market. The units<br />
are well appointed and include pedestal-style kingsize<br />
beds in each master bedroom. The kitchens are<br />
sleek and modern with island counters with stools,<br />
Thermadore cooktops, Sub Zero refrigerators, Della<br />
Casa self-closing cabinets and Bausch washers and<br />
dryers. The living areas are furnished in classic blues<br />
and whites contrasted with dark wood—inviting and<br />
comfortable. The exterior decks are designed for<br />
relaxation and to take advantage <strong>of</strong> water views.<br />
Blue Haven Resort <strong>of</strong>fers premier rooms and one,<br />
two and three bedroom suites, as well as <strong>the</strong> penthouses;<br />
16 units are lock-outs. This option allows<br />
three opportunities for vacation rental: a premier<br />
room, a full one bedroom suite or a two-bedroom<br />
suite. The units are spacious, starting at approximately<br />
1,500 sq. ft. to over 5,000 sq. ft. for a<br />
ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.<br />
Tel: 649 231-2329<br />
Email: krbrown@era.tc<br />
Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com<br />
Tradewinds Radio<br />
104.5<br />
FM<br />
www.tradewinds1045.com<br />
Great music,<br />
marine wea<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
informative ads<br />
Tel 431.7527 claire@tradewindsradio.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 59
Island Auto Rentals & Sales is<br />
committed to adding value to your<br />
tropical vacation experience<br />
by delivering excellent service<br />
along with secure and reliable<br />
transportation that will take you<br />
where you need to go.<br />
EXCELLENT SERVICE • GREAT VALUE<br />
SECURE • RELIABLE TRANSPORTATION<br />
Leeward Palms, Leeward, Providenciales<br />
Telephone: (649) 246-0395 or 232-0933 or 946-2042<br />
Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com or<br />
philipgibson251@hotmail.com<br />
Web: islandautorentals.tc<br />
Brigitte ad_Brigitte 2/16/17 8:22 AM Page 1<br />
For Vehicle Rental in<br />
Grand Turk call<br />
232 0933 or 946 2042<br />
Tangled Hair Salon<br />
Open 6 days per week and by appointment on Sundays<br />
for cutting, styling and so much more<br />
GOLDWELL HAIR COLOURS<br />
without ammonia and with a pleasant fragrance.<br />
KERASILK KERATIN TREATMENT <strong>the</strong> long lasting<br />
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OLAPLEX <strong>the</strong> salon wonder-treatment that actually<br />
rebuilds your hair from inside out.<br />
BLOWDRY for $35 - straight/curly/beach<br />
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Call 431 4247 (431 HAIR)<br />
PORTS OF CALL PLAZA<br />
www.tangledhairsalonprovidenciales.com<br />
penthouse unit. The resort’s guest services team is<br />
fabulous; <strong>the</strong>y take pride in <strong>of</strong>fering superb service<br />
and warm island hospitality.<br />
Blue Haven Resort is located in <strong>the</strong> Leeward area<br />
<strong>of</strong> Providenciales— private but not secluded, only<br />
minutes away from restaurants, stores and o<strong>the</strong><br />
businesses on Grace Bay. However, if you choose to<br />
remain on resort property all that you need is provided.<br />
There are three restaurants on site: Salt Bar<br />
and Grill, Fire and Ice and <strong>the</strong> café Market, a small<br />
grocery store and gift shop.<br />
For more outdoor enjoyment, <strong>the</strong> private beach<br />
area in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> resort has ample umbrella-shaded<br />
seating, hammocks and sun beds as well as a free<br />
form infinity pool with expansive deck area and a<br />
water trampoline. All <strong>of</strong> your favorite watersports are<br />
also available at <strong>the</strong> adjacent IGY Blue Haven Marina.<br />
For those inclined to maintain <strong>the</strong>ir fitness and wellness<br />
goals, <strong>the</strong>re is a fully equipped, 24-hour fitness<br />
center and Elevate Spa. Families enjoy <strong>the</strong> benefits <strong>of</strong><br />
Sandpiper Kid’s Club, <strong>of</strong>fered free <strong>of</strong> charge to resort<br />
guests and owners.<br />
Thanks to Blue Haven’s affiliation with sister<br />
properties Alexandra Resort and Beach House Turks<br />
& Caicos, resort guests may take a free shuttle to<br />
dine at both resorts, and to use <strong>the</strong> beach facilities<br />
(by advance reservation) at Beach House.<br />
At any given time, <strong>the</strong>re are a few units for sale<br />
at Blue Haven Resort. Price will depend on size, <strong>the</strong><br />
floor on which <strong>the</strong> unit is located and views. Ground<br />
level floor will be lower-priced; as you move higher<br />
in <strong>the</strong> building prices usually increase. (Of course it<br />
also depends on square footage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unit.) Sales <strong>of</strong><br />
units that have come on <strong>the</strong> market have been generally<br />
quite close to list price or sold for list price. This<br />
shows that <strong>the</strong> properties are being listed at market<br />
value.<br />
Because <strong>the</strong> resort and individual units are both<br />
well maintained, value will remain strong. As <strong>the</strong> real<br />
estate market continues to improve with sales higher<br />
than new listings, we expect some increase in value<br />
<strong>of</strong> all properties.<br />
Blue Haven Resort’s exclusive location makes it<br />
special. The Leeward subdivision is largely residential—with<br />
Blue Haven being a jewel in <strong>the</strong> crown,<br />
<strong>the</strong>re will be no o<strong>the</strong>r resort built in this area. Being<br />
home to <strong>the</strong> world-class Blue Haven Marina adds <strong>the</strong><br />
finishing touch. a<br />
60 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
The late Sherlin Williams was an avid supporter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum and one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI’s most ardent local historians. This 2011 photo shows him<br />
in front <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> iconic backdrops in his at-home photo studio on James Street, where residents would come to have <strong>the</strong>ir picture taken.<br />
STEVE PASSMORE–PROVO PICTURES<br />
Now He is Part <strong>of</strong> History<br />
By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />
The first time I met Sherlin Williams was in <strong>the</strong> Museum Science Building’s workshop. He was just putting<br />
<strong>the</strong> finishing touches on <strong>the</strong> 150 year-old clockwork mechanism that made <strong>the</strong> light turn in Grand Turk’s<br />
lighthouse. I was amazed because it was an intricate piece <strong>of</strong> equipment for which no plans or instructions<br />
were available. He had been working on it for months, and through observation and persistence<br />
alone figured it out by himself. It made more sense later when I learned that in previous years he had a<br />
business in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas repairing high-end cameras!<br />
Sherlin didn’t just repair cameras, he was a pretty good photographer too! In 2010, he showed me<br />
computer-manipulated artwork he was producing called “photocraphs,” each composed <strong>of</strong> dozens or<br />
even hundreds <strong>of</strong> different images combined to tell a story.<br />
Each time I made a visit to <strong>the</strong> Museum on Grand Turk Sherlin was <strong>the</strong>re, always ready to explore<br />
newly discovered archaeological sites, conduct research in <strong>the</strong> Museum’s library, investigate a mystery,<br />
or get his hands dirty cleaning and conserving artifacts. Over <strong>the</strong> years he authored several articles for<br />
<strong>the</strong> Astrolabe including, “Grand Turk’s Postcard Man,” and “The Time-Travelling Beach Comber.”<br />
Mr. Sherlin McDonald Williams died on January 2, <strong>2017</strong>. He was an avid supporter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum, a<br />
good friend, a native son <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI and one <strong>of</strong> its most ardent and active local historians—but he is not<br />
lost to us. He is still here in <strong>the</strong> Museum. You can hear him in <strong>the</strong> words he wrote, see photos <strong>of</strong> him working<br />
to conserve o<strong>the</strong>r people’s history, and admire <strong>the</strong> art he created, all preserved here in perpetuity. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 61
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
ANGLOTOPIA.NET<br />
Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson commanded a squadron that was defeated by <strong>the</strong> French on Fire Hill, Grand Turk, in 1783.<br />
The French Connection<br />
The ill-fated Coquette Expedition.<br />
By John de Bry, Center for Historical Archaeology<br />
They say histories are usually about wars and always written by <strong>the</strong> victorious. It is refreshing to be able to<br />
look at a well-known conflict through <strong>the</strong> eyes <strong>of</strong> a participant on <strong>the</strong> losing side. Following a (very) minor<br />
engagement on Grand Turk in 1783, during which <strong>the</strong> squadron he commanded was unable to defeat a<br />
60-man French force dug in on Fire Hill, none o<strong>the</strong>r than Capt. Horatio Nelson concluded his dispatch with<br />
“With such a force, and <strong>the</strong>ir strong situation, I did not think anything far<strong>the</strong>r could be attempted.” But<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is ano<strong>the</strong>r, far more informative and thrilling account written by <strong>the</strong> commander <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> opposing<br />
French naval force, Lt. Grasse-Brianson.<br />
62 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
The following account was transcribed, interpreted<br />
and translated by Dr. John de Bry <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Center for<br />
Historical Archaeology in 1994 during a TCNMsponsored<br />
search for old records pertaining to <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in various French repositories.<br />
The attempt on <strong>the</strong> part <strong>of</strong> France to take over <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks <strong>Islands</strong> in 1783 was largely a privateering endeavor<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than an initiative emanating from Versailles. It is<br />
easy to imagine <strong>the</strong> Sieur de Courrejeolles, mentioned<br />
in <strong>the</strong> first paragraph <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> account below, as a shady<br />
character straight out <strong>of</strong> “Pirates <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.”<br />
Courrejeolles remains an enigmatic player. His role in <strong>the</strong><br />
invasion and capture <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk is surely understated<br />
and deserves elaboration. Additional research has so far<br />
failed to fully identify him. His name does not appear<br />
on any <strong>of</strong>ficial naval papers, which only confirms that he<br />
was ei<strong>the</strong>r a privateer or a pirate with a certain flair and<br />
sophistication. After all, he was <strong>the</strong> one who managed<br />
to sell <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> to <strong>the</strong> Prince and Princess <strong>of</strong><br />
Nassau-Siegen several years later, even though he had<br />
absolutely no right to any property title on <strong>the</strong>se islands!<br />
Although <strong>the</strong> direct involvement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Governor <strong>of</strong> Saint-<br />
Domingue, Comte Robert d’Argout, is evidenced by <strong>the</strong><br />
commission he gave to <strong>the</strong> Sieur de Courrejeolles on 11<br />
September 1778, it is equally clear that Versailles strongly<br />
disapproved and condemned <strong>the</strong> actions <strong>of</strong> d’Argout and<br />
Courrejeolles.<br />
Abstract <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> expedition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> King’s corvette la<br />
Coquette to <strong>the</strong> Turk <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Followed by details <strong>of</strong> its capture<br />
Monsieur de Bellecombe, Governor-General <strong>of</strong> Saint-<br />
Domingue (modern Haiti), assigned <strong>the</strong> corvette la<br />
Coquette to <strong>the</strong> Turk islands expedition, along with two<br />
vessels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> colony, <strong>the</strong> Dauphin and Cornwallis. I [naval<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficer Grasse Brianson, in my capacity as acting captain<br />
and expedition leader] immediately endeavored to load<br />
all <strong>the</strong> necessary material, everything being ready on 8<br />
February. Four detachments from different infantry regiments<br />
came aboard, as well as Monsieur de Courrejolles,<br />
Engineer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Colony, who would take control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> away from <strong>the</strong> English.<br />
The bay <strong>of</strong> Cap-Français [modern Cape Haitian] was<br />
blockaded by <strong>the</strong> English. But on <strong>the</strong> morning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 9th,<br />
seeing <strong>the</strong> fleet somewhat distant, I took advantage <strong>of</strong> this<br />
situation to set sail with <strong>the</strong> vessels under my command,<br />
closely hugging <strong>the</strong> coast. We anchored at Port -Français,<br />
two leagues to <strong>the</strong> West to have <strong>the</strong> advantage <strong>of</strong> leaving<br />
during <strong>the</strong> night, which was done, thus allowing us to get<br />
under way without being seen.<br />
We sighted <strong>the</strong> Turk islands on <strong>the</strong> morning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
12th, but <strong>the</strong> hour at which we arrived exposed us to<br />
<strong>the</strong> danger <strong>of</strong> being spotted from a long distance, so in<br />
order to avoid this inconvenience, I anchored at <strong>the</strong> Petite<br />
Saline [Salt Cay], one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands which is uninhabited,<br />
from which, without being seen, it was easy to observe if<br />
any vessels were at <strong>the</strong> Grande Saline [Grand Turk]. I only<br />
saw fishing boats. During <strong>the</strong> night I sent <strong>the</strong> brigantine<br />
Cornwallis to cruise to <strong>the</strong> North in order to be within<br />
range <strong>of</strong> intercepting any isolated vessel which might<br />
report [to <strong>the</strong> enemy] our presence. We also wanted to<br />
take <strong>the</strong> commanding English <strong>of</strong>ficer by surprise; to this<br />
effect, Monsieur de Courrejolles left during <strong>the</strong> night<br />
aboard rowboats and long boats, and landed with part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> troops on <strong>the</strong> South point, while I arrived in daylight<br />
in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dwellings. As soon as I was anchored,<br />
I landed <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> detachments; all <strong>of</strong> our plans<br />
succeeded, and we took control <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Grande<br />
Saline without encountering any resistance.<br />
I immediately sent ashore all <strong>the</strong> workmen I could<br />
find among <strong>the</strong> crews and, fur<strong>the</strong>r, assigned daily sixty<br />
men to work under Monsieur de Courrejolles, at <strong>the</strong> various<br />
tasks which had to be performed at <strong>the</strong> same time, I<br />
unloaded ammunition and cannon as and when required.<br />
We had brought with us four 24-pounder cannon<br />
with which Monsieur de Courrejolles built a battery on<br />
<strong>the</strong> seashore, in front <strong>of</strong> his ammunition stores and living<br />
quarters. We anchored <strong>the</strong> ships a quarter <strong>of</strong> a league<br />
away, a reef line preventing us from coming any closer.<br />
It was unanimously determined that we could not be adequately<br />
protected in this situation, and that I would have<br />
no o<strong>the</strong>r choice than to set sail, should I be in danger <strong>of</strong><br />
being attacked.<br />
Wanting to contribute all <strong>of</strong> my resources to <strong>the</strong><br />
establishment [<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> stronghold], I provided Monsieur<br />
de Courrejolles everything that he asked, even an additional<br />
nine quintals [1,980 pounds] <strong>of</strong> powder and two<br />
<strong>of</strong> my cannons, in order to build a battery on a small<br />
island located east <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grande Saline [called Gibbs Cay<br />
today, it appears on French maps as Isle de Fort Castries,<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 63
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
DONALD KEITH<br />
This map <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn end <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk shows where <strong>the</strong> engagements described in <strong>the</strong> transcript below took place.<br />
evidently named after <strong>the</strong> Marquis de Castries, <strong>the</strong>n<br />
Secretary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> French Navy], which he intended to use<br />
as a retreat point if <strong>the</strong> situation dictated it. I planned,<br />
upon my departure, to leave <strong>the</strong> Cornwallis under his<br />
command. Judging that she was not safe where we were,<br />
I had her anchor under this new battery which she managed<br />
to reach only after zigzagging among rocks, and<br />
because she drew little water, which afforded her shelter<br />
from attacks. I was also required to put ashore my water<br />
as well as my casks, consequently I kept only what was<br />
necessary for my crossing [back to Saint-Domingue].<br />
Monsieur de Bellecombe stipulated that I must stay<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turk <strong>Islands</strong> not only until <strong>the</strong> stronghold which<br />
we wanted to establish was completed, but also to leave<br />
as to arrive at <strong>the</strong> Cap no earlier than March 6th, in order<br />
that my mission be kept secret until that date. The 27th<br />
<strong>of</strong> February, everything being finished at <strong>the</strong> Grande<br />
Saline, <strong>the</strong> workmen were kept occupied constructing <strong>the</strong><br />
gun battery on <strong>the</strong> small island [Gibbs Cay]. This work,<br />
meant to be <strong>the</strong> last, was well-advanced within <strong>the</strong> next<br />
two days, which allowed me to set my departure date<br />
between <strong>the</strong> 4th and <strong>the</strong> 5th. I had been, up to that point,<br />
as lucky as I could have hoped to be, all <strong>the</strong> operations<br />
being completed, and I enjoyed <strong>the</strong> satisfaction <strong>of</strong> having<br />
precisely fulfilled <strong>the</strong> mission that had been entrusted to<br />
me, confident <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> good fortune I still needed for my<br />
return journey.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> 2nd <strong>of</strong> March, at two o’clock in <strong>the</strong> afternoon,<br />
<strong>the</strong> rowboat and long boat being occupied, <strong>the</strong> first transporting<br />
timber from <strong>the</strong> Grande Saline to <strong>the</strong> small island<br />
to finish <strong>the</strong> cribbing, and <strong>the</strong> long boat ga<strong>the</strong>ring ballast,<br />
<strong>the</strong> lookout posted on land signaled seeing sails.<br />
Nothing had yet been spotted from <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> masts<br />
where I myself climbed having only a few <strong>of</strong>ficers, but<br />
no sooner were we in position to observe than two vessels<br />
that had been hidden by <strong>the</strong> upper elevations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
island, suddenly appeared behind a lower land feature,<br />
heading toward <strong>the</strong> North point. Because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir proximity<br />
we were able to recognize a vessel with two batteries<br />
[two gun decks] and a frigate, and at <strong>the</strong> same time able<br />
to judge our tardiness in spotting <strong>the</strong>m. We did not have<br />
any time to waste, prompting me to cut <strong>the</strong> [anchor] cable<br />
on <strong>the</strong> spot. I also hailed <strong>the</strong> Dauphin who took <strong>the</strong> same<br />
action, and we headed to <strong>the</strong> south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> channel, raising<br />
sails as promptly as possible. I had sixty men ashore,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Sieur de Gaillard, garde de la marine, was also<br />
64 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
<strong>the</strong>re on duty, but not having enough men for maneuvering,<br />
I found <strong>the</strong> circumstance too pressing to wait for<br />
<strong>the</strong>m.<br />
The vessel appeared after a few moments, having<br />
passed <strong>the</strong> tip <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island and chased us, being two<br />
small leagues to our rear; it did not take us long to realize<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y had superior speed; however, <strong>the</strong> distance<br />
which separated us left me <strong>the</strong> hope that <strong>the</strong>y would not<br />
catch up with us until night. At three thirty, <strong>the</strong> vessel had<br />
closed in considerably; <strong>the</strong> Dauphin, which had stayed<br />
within shouting distance downwind from me, cut down<br />
his fore-topmast, although <strong>the</strong> sea and wind were favorable<br />
to sailing with light sails. I signaled to him to assume<br />
chase at <strong>the</strong> speed which he would deem <strong>the</strong> less disadvantageous<br />
in his situation; he maintained his speed, and<br />
I somewhat succeeded in this maneuver which forced <strong>the</strong><br />
enemy to decide which one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two vessels [to chase],<br />
giving me <strong>the</strong> confidence that <strong>the</strong> Dauphin would escape.<br />
I hoped that he [<strong>the</strong> enemy vessel] would abandon pursuit<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dauphin and try to catch up with me, thinking<br />
that <strong>the</strong> frigate which was following him would be able to<br />
capture <strong>the</strong> Dauphin. He fired a few cannon shots as he<br />
passed him, but at too great a distance to threaten <strong>the</strong><br />
Dauphin.<br />
I used all <strong>the</strong> means at my disposal to reach maximum<br />
speed. Unfortunately, nothing succeeded nor made<br />
up for <strong>the</strong> disadvantages <strong>of</strong> not having a hull shea<strong>the</strong>d<br />
with copper, <strong>of</strong> having last been careened a year ago, and<br />
for <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> stability caused by <strong>the</strong> quantities <strong>of</strong> water<br />
casks and o<strong>the</strong>r objects <strong>of</strong> considerable weight which I<br />
was obliged to put ashore on Turk island.<br />
At five o’clock <strong>the</strong> vessel having approached me<br />
within short range, and not firing, I lowered <strong>the</strong> English<br />
flag to raise <strong>the</strong> French flag, and warned him with my<br />
cannon which I had kept retracted, he responded with<br />
his chase ordnance. The exchange <strong>of</strong> fire continued<br />
between one and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r for approximately twenty-five<br />
minutes; I aimed <strong>the</strong> guns in such a manner as to cause<br />
damage to his masts, which might delay him and give<br />
me time to escape, but did not succeed. At five thirty<br />
<strong>the</strong> enemy caught up with me and followed downwind<br />
at pistol shot range, I <strong>the</strong>n opened fire with <strong>the</strong> battery<br />
that I had managed to arm with <strong>the</strong> remaining personnel.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same time, he fired upon us broadside with<br />
his entire battery and his muskets. Having employed all<br />
<strong>the</strong> means <strong>of</strong> defense against such superior forces, I had<br />
From top: The illustration depicts two English frigates in pursuit <strong>of</strong><br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r vessel.<br />
“Island <strong>of</strong> Fort Castries,” corresponding to modern Gibbs Cay, is<br />
clearly marked on this 18th century French map <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
<strong>the</strong> painful duty to surrender <strong>the</strong> King’s corvette, after<br />
having thrown into <strong>the</strong> sea all <strong>the</strong> signals and instructions<br />
pertaining to my mission. We were boarded by <strong>the</strong><br />
English vessel named <strong>the</strong> Resistance, carrying 56 guns;<br />
her escort, which was not functioning properly, caught up<br />
with us three quarters <strong>of</strong> an hour later, <strong>the</strong> distance and<br />
<strong>the</strong> already obscure night had caused her to lose sight <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Dauphin, which I have since learned happily arrived<br />
at Port-de-Paix, on <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Saint-Domingue.<br />
Among <strong>the</strong> casualties which <strong>the</strong> Coquette sustained<br />
on this occasion, is <strong>the</strong> Sieur Courdoux, auxiliary lieutenant,<br />
who received a gunshot wound to <strong>the</strong> hand, losing<br />
use <strong>of</strong> it, and a strong concussion to <strong>the</strong> chest, caused by<br />
a flying fragment <strong>of</strong> wood. The praises that his conduct<br />
commands, <strong>the</strong> great number <strong>of</strong> campaigns at <strong>the</strong> King’s<br />
service, and <strong>the</strong> seriousness <strong>of</strong> his wound, are grounds<br />
for hoping to obtain <strong>the</strong> graces <strong>of</strong> His Majesty.<br />
DEREK GARDNER TCNM COLLECTION<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 65
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
DONALD KEITH<br />
Are <strong>the</strong>se low stone foundations atop Gibbs Cay <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> Courrejeolles’ “fall back”<br />
position?<br />
I feel compelled to add at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> my log summary<br />
what I witnessed relative to <strong>the</strong> attempt made by <strong>the</strong><br />
English to retake <strong>the</strong> Turk islands, while I was prisoner<br />
aboard <strong>the</strong>ir vessels.<br />
On March 5th, <strong>the</strong> vessel <strong>the</strong> Resistance, along with<br />
<strong>the</strong> frigates Tartar and Albermarle, which were joined<br />
as well by <strong>the</strong> brigantines Drake and Barington, having<br />
planned to retake <strong>the</strong> Turk <strong>Islands</strong>, anchored on <strong>the</strong> 6th<br />
on <strong>the</strong> south part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grande Saline. On <strong>the</strong> 7th, <strong>the</strong><br />
ships fired several grapeshot broadsides on <strong>the</strong> [aziers?]<br />
which fringe <strong>the</strong> coast, and on <strong>the</strong> promontory where <strong>the</strong>y<br />
intended to land in order to make sure that we did not<br />
have any fortification <strong>the</strong>re. They landed approximately<br />
two hundred men, soldiers as well as sailors, with <strong>the</strong> two<br />
brigantines anchored in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dwellings in order<br />
to provide cover for <strong>the</strong> advancing troops. They did not<br />
know <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> our battery, and thought it to be<br />
made up only <strong>of</strong> cannons from <strong>the</strong> Coquette. They were<br />
fired upon with <strong>the</strong> 24-pounders but held <strong>the</strong>ir position<br />
for approximately one hour, vigorously responding with<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir small artillery. [The English ships] having been hit<br />
by two cannon balls which caused damage and wounded<br />
several men, cut <strong>the</strong>ir [anchor] cables and returned to<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir original anchorage. The English troops returned to<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir ships in <strong>the</strong> evening without daring to leave <strong>the</strong> protection<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessels, having seen us [<strong>the</strong> French forces<br />
on <strong>the</strong> island] well dug in, and with field artillery which<br />
<strong>the</strong>y <strong>the</strong>mselves lacked.<br />
The English had <strong>the</strong> intention <strong>of</strong><br />
resuming <strong>the</strong>ir attack <strong>the</strong> next day,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> wind, which shifted to <strong>the</strong><br />
West during <strong>the</strong> night, caused <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
plan to fail. They became preoccupied<br />
with <strong>the</strong> danger that <strong>the</strong>y faced; managing<br />
to escape [<strong>the</strong> danger <strong>of</strong> being<br />
driven onto a lee shore] with great<br />
difficulty. They completely abandoned<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir project and departed.<br />
I must give great credit to <strong>the</strong><br />
crews <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> corvette, for keeping<br />
silent on <strong>the</strong> subject <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> forces<br />
that we had on <strong>the</strong> island, as well as<br />
<strong>the</strong> positions [batteries and fortifications]<br />
which we had established on<br />
<strong>the</strong> island despite <strong>the</strong> tortures that<br />
were inflicted on several <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> Cap, 18 April 1783<br />
Grasse Brianson<br />
Postscript<br />
No documents have turned up that tell “<strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
story.” At some point soon after <strong>the</strong> Nelson’s squadron<br />
departed Grand Turk, so did <strong>the</strong> French garrison, perhaps<br />
aboard <strong>the</strong> small vessel Cornwallis, left behind in Hawk’s<br />
Nest anchorage. It seems odd that in both English and<br />
French accounts <strong>the</strong>re is no mention <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people living<br />
on Grand Turk at <strong>the</strong> time, just “dwellings.” The conflict<br />
was not about <strong>the</strong>m, whoever <strong>the</strong>y were, but about determining<br />
which European nation could make its claim <strong>of</strong><br />
possession stick. England’s superior sea power accomplished<br />
that once and for all in 1783, even though both<br />
Spain and France both had designs on <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong><br />
for centuries.<br />
Do any traces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> French Invasion <strong>of</strong> 1783 survive?<br />
Historian H.E. Sadler writes that “an old French cannon”<br />
was uncovered during <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American<br />
missile-tracking station around Fire Hill at <strong>the</strong> south end<br />
<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and that it was taken away and put on<br />
display at <strong>the</strong> Kennedy Space Center on Cape Canaveral.<br />
This remains to be verified, but low stone foundations on<br />
top <strong>of</strong> Gibbs Cay may well be <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> Courrejeolles’<br />
“fall back” position. a<br />
66 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Remembering Sherlin Williams<br />
Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith<br />
1995: When <strong>the</strong> Museum’s first Director, Barry Dressel, became interested<br />
in <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk’s salt industry, he discovered that Sherlin had<br />
grown up on Grand Turk when <strong>the</strong> salt industry was still in full swing and<br />
had witnessed salt production in action. Sherlin pointed out that <strong>the</strong>re were<br />
a number <strong>of</strong> different types <strong>of</strong> windmills still standing, but only one example<br />
<strong>of</strong> a type called <strong>the</strong> “carousel” was left. It was in <strong>the</strong> Town Salina only a few<br />
blocks from <strong>the</strong> Museum. He said <strong>the</strong> salina is always flooded <strong>the</strong>se days,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> walls people used to walk on between ponds were still <strong>the</strong>re, just<br />
under <strong>the</strong> surface and we could walk out to see it. We took our notepads and<br />
cameras, rolled up our pant legs, and followed him out to <strong>the</strong> site. Passers-by<br />
stopped and stared. It had been years since anyone had seen people in <strong>the</strong><br />
salina and it must have looked like we were walking on water!<br />
1999: Sherlin was not directly<br />
involved in making rubber moulds <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> inscribed rocks on Sapodilla Hill<br />
in Provo, but he eagerly dived into <strong>the</strong><br />
hardest part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> project—making<br />
resin casts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> inscriptions in <strong>the</strong><br />
Museum’s “wet lab.” I experimented<br />
with various combinations <strong>of</strong> plaster,<br />
resins, hardeners, fillers, and release<br />
agents until I found an ideal formula.<br />
It was a difficult and tedious process<br />
and once you got started you had to<br />
continue until it was finished which<br />
meant long days and long nights! But<br />
Sherlin hung in <strong>the</strong>re. Altoge<strong>the</strong>r we<br />
made more than two dozen casts over<br />
a period <strong>of</strong> weeks. The resin casts all<br />
come out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rubber moulds a brilliant white. Here he is “cosmetizing” one<br />
with watercolor washes to make it look exactly <strong>the</strong> way it does on <strong>the</strong> hill.<br />
1998: Sherlin is measuring <strong>the</strong> “drive<br />
shaft” <strong>of</strong> a windmill that <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
recovered after it collapsed into <strong>the</strong><br />
North Salina. As a child growing up<br />
on Grand Turk, Sherlin was fascinated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> windmills that were fully operational<br />
<strong>the</strong>n. A careful observer, he<br />
understood how <strong>the</strong>y worked and<br />
how <strong>the</strong>y circulated <strong>the</strong> water in <strong>the</strong><br />
salinas to increase <strong>the</strong> efficiency <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> reducing tons <strong>of</strong> seawater<br />
to handfuls <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />
We learned more from him than<br />
from all <strong>the</strong> written references on <strong>the</strong><br />
subject in our library. The wooden<br />
timbers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> windmill were too far<br />
gone to save, but Sherlin wanted to<br />
save <strong>the</strong> iron parts so <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
could reconstruct <strong>the</strong> windmill one<br />
day and put it back into service. He<br />
wanted it to serve as a memorial to<br />
<strong>the</strong> folks who worked in <strong>the</strong> salinas<br />
all <strong>the</strong>ir lives and made Grand Turk’s<br />
salt industry world-famous.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 67
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
(At left) 2010: Gre<strong>the</strong> Seim saved this “Archimedes Screw” from going to <strong>the</strong><br />
dump decades before <strong>the</strong> Museum was created and took it to her home for<br />
safekeeping. She wanted it to go to <strong>the</strong> Museum but it took a long time to<br />
figure out how and when to do it. We had to hunt for it because it had been<br />
kept outdoors and <strong>the</strong> bush had grown up around it. In a reversal <strong>of</strong> roles,<br />
Sherlin cleared <strong>the</strong> bush while I took <strong>the</strong> photos! A group <strong>of</strong> Chinese laborers<br />
working on a house nearby cheerfully carried <strong>the</strong> screw uphill through<br />
<strong>the</strong> bush to <strong>the</strong> truck for <strong>the</strong> trip back to <strong>the</strong> Museum. Once we got it <strong>the</strong>re,<br />
Sherlin cajoled Mr. Oswald “King Oz” Francis—<strong>the</strong> only person who remembered<br />
when it was made, what its purpose was, and where it came from—to<br />
come over and tell us its history.<br />
(At right) 2012: Like me, Sherlin<br />
was enthralled by <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk<br />
Lighthouse. As a photographer, he<br />
saw its majestic, photogenic potential.<br />
As an archaeologist, I saw a<br />
magnificent, intact machine from <strong>the</strong><br />
early industrial age with a plethora<br />
<strong>of</strong> mysteries to unravel. We visited it<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r many times although gaining<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficially sanctioned entry was<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten tedious. Here, we are in <strong>the</strong> “ready room.” The spiral staircase to Sherlin’s left leads to <strong>the</strong> “lamp room” where<br />
<strong>the</strong> actual light is. The tube to his right leads from <strong>the</strong> clockwork mechanism above all <strong>the</strong> way through <strong>the</strong> height<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lighthouse and into a hole in <strong>the</strong> ground beneath it. The 400 pound weight pulled down <strong>the</strong> tube by gravity<br />
is what turned <strong>the</strong> light all night.<br />
(At left) 2013: For <strong>the</strong> exhibit featuring<br />
<strong>the</strong> exploits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> larger-than-life<br />
helmet diver Jeremiah Murphy, who<br />
lived on Grand Turk, we had to locate<br />
and purchase all <strong>the</strong> equipment to<br />
fit out a 19th-century helmet diver.<br />
We found a pair <strong>of</strong> lead, lea<strong>the</strong>r and<br />
brass diving boots in England, but<br />
when <strong>the</strong>y arrived, we found <strong>the</strong><br />
lea<strong>the</strong>r to be dry, hard, and fragile.<br />
Sherlin worked for weeks bathing <strong>the</strong><br />
lea<strong>the</strong>r in two types <strong>of</strong> cleaners and<br />
conditioners to get it supple enough<br />
to use in <strong>the</strong> Museum’s exhibit.<br />
68 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
(At left) 2013: One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last projects<br />
we worked on toge<strong>the</strong>r was<br />
creating <strong>the</strong> “Golden Age <strong>of</strong> Grand<br />
Turk” exhibit featuring a reproduction<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “lamp room” <strong>of</strong> Grand<br />
Turk’s lighthouse. No plans <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
lighthouse survive, so we had to measure,<br />
photograph, and document it<br />
from scratch. Here Sherlin is inspecting<br />
<strong>the</strong> exhibit, perhaps reflecting on<br />
<strong>the</strong> first work he did for <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
two decades earlier restoring <strong>the</strong><br />
clockwork mechanism that led to <strong>the</strong><br />
creation <strong>of</strong> this exhibit.<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> 30+ years as a photographer in TCI, Sherlin compiled tens <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> photos, including those<br />
<strong>of</strong> many buildings, especially in Grand Turk, that no longer exist. As his craft became digitalized, Sherlin went abroad<br />
and took courses to become fluent in image and layout-focused programs. When he started experimenting with <strong>the</strong><br />
creative possibilities, he found he could use his life’s massive collection <strong>of</strong> photos in a new and different way. Each<br />
“Photocraph” encompasses anywhere from dozens to hundreds to thousands <strong>of</strong> individual photos, carefully “cut,”<br />
“pasted,” modified and placed into a computer file to form an original work <strong>of</strong> art. One <strong>of</strong> his favorite pieces, entitled<br />
“The Mule Breeder,” included nearly 3,500 individual items and took four months to complete. Shown above, “Hillary<br />
Session” is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “photocraphs” Sherlin created in about 2011. Tragically, a year or two later his computer was<br />
stolen, his health began to deteriorate, and he was unable to continue pursuing his art.<br />
SHERLIN WILLIAMS<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 69
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum matters<br />
By Museum Director Pat Saxton<br />
PAT SAXTON<br />
25th anniversary party<br />
It was a dark and stormy night . . . and everyone volunteering<br />
to help at <strong>the</strong> Museum’s 25th Anniversary party<br />
was debating whe<strong>the</strong>r to take a chance having <strong>the</strong> party<br />
outside as planned, or batten <strong>the</strong> hatches and hole up<br />
inside. Even after <strong>the</strong> rain stopped we unanimously<br />
agreed that discretion was <strong>the</strong> better part <strong>of</strong> valor and<br />
we should have it “below decks” inside. We did not<br />
realize it at <strong>the</strong> time, but <strong>the</strong> inclement wea<strong>the</strong>r was<br />
a blessing in disguise! The ambiance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum,<br />
complete with low lighting, creaky ship sound effects,<br />
and all volunteers and staff in costume provided <strong>the</strong><br />
perfect setting for our “Time Travel” event.<br />
Our Providenciales representative Candianne<br />
Williams greeted guests as <strong>the</strong>y started slogging in. To<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir surprise, and sometimes astonishment, she presented<br />
each with a card—<strong>the</strong>ir persona for <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> evening—and <strong>the</strong> challenge <strong>of</strong> locating <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir place in history among <strong>the</strong> Museum’s exhibits.<br />
Some cards bore <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> historical figures or<br />
personnel associated with <strong>the</strong> Museum, while o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />
had <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> crew members serving on <strong>the</strong> Spanish<br />
ship <strong>of</strong> exploration and discovery, La Joya Pequena (<strong>the</strong><br />
Little Gem), <strong>the</strong> “stage name” we gave to <strong>the</strong> Molasses<br />
Reef Wreck for <strong>the</strong> evening.<br />
Each guest was presented with a Time Travel Card, and <strong>the</strong> challenge<br />
to locate <strong>the</strong>ir “persona” among <strong>the</strong> Museum’s exhibits.<br />
The idea was to “find yourself” somewhere in <strong>the</strong><br />
Museum. With exhibits on two floors and a dozen rooms,<br />
hints printed on <strong>the</strong> cards helped, and soon all 65 guests<br />
were buzzing around looking for <strong>the</strong>ir namesakes. Of<br />
course <strong>the</strong>re was lots <strong>of</strong> laughter as <strong>the</strong> party-goers compared<br />
notes and called each o<strong>the</strong>r by <strong>the</strong>ir new identities.<br />
Students from <strong>the</strong> high school, under <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong><br />
Mrs. Swimmer passed out delicious canapés during <strong>the</strong><br />
entire event.<br />
Students from Grand Turk’s H.J. Robinson High School served canapés<br />
to party guests.<br />
Once everyone found <strong>the</strong>ir identities, <strong>the</strong>y handed in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
nametags and were awarded prizes associated with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
new calling. The boatswain won a boatswain key chain,<br />
“Jeremiah Murphy” won a hard helmet key chain. “Sandy,”<br />
<strong>the</strong> little donkey hero <strong>of</strong> Donna Seim’s book, got a copy<br />
<strong>of</strong> our new <strong>2017</strong> calendar—and <strong>the</strong> list went on.<br />
Pat Saxton delivered a witty poem relating <strong>the</strong> 25-year<br />
history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum complete with slide show. At <strong>the</strong><br />
end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> presentation everyone was handed a glass <strong>of</strong><br />
champagne (kindly donated by Grand Turk Liquors/The<br />
Wine Store) to toast <strong>the</strong> Museum’s success.<br />
HE Governor Dr. John Freeman congratulated <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
for <strong>the</strong> work it has done and continues to do. Hon. Derek<br />
Taylor, who sits on <strong>the</strong> Board, spoke about <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />
efforts to save <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> TCI. Long-time supporter<br />
Ms. Lillian Swann-Misick reiterated <strong>the</strong> important work<br />
<strong>the</strong> Museum does.<br />
MARTIN SEIM<br />
70 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Having received many<br />
compliments about <strong>the</strong><br />
party we want to thank<br />
TCNM’s loyal members<br />
and friends <strong>of</strong> who came to<br />
help us celebrate 25 years<br />
<strong>of</strong> “Protecting, preserving<br />
and promoting <strong>the</strong> history<br />
and culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.” Thanks to<br />
staff members Candianne<br />
Williams, Nikki Jennings,<br />
Ivy Basden, and Fred<br />
Glinton who worked all<br />
night to ensure our guests<br />
had <strong>the</strong> best possible<br />
experience. Thanks also to<br />
our wonderful volunteers<br />
Dudley Been, Claudia and<br />
Edger Schnetz, Séamus<br />
and Hilary Day, Neil<br />
The Turks & Caicos National Museum staff (from left): Pat Saxton, Fred Glinton, Ivy Basden, Candianne<br />
Williams, and Nikki Jennings take a night <strong>of</strong>f to celebrate!<br />
Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription<br />
to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (which includes<br />
Astrolabe), free admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum, and a<br />
Members’ Discount in <strong>the</strong> Museum Shop.<br />
Senior (62+) $35<br />
Individual $50<br />
Family/Friend $100<br />
Sponsor $250<br />
Contributor $500<br />
Partner $750<br />
MARTIN SEIM<br />
B NAQQI MANCO<br />
From left: Norman Watts, Mrs. Corina Freeman, and Martin Seim enjoy<br />
<strong>the</strong> Museum’s grand 25th anniversary event.<br />
Saxton, and Rebecca Cain, who continue to give unselfishly<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir time and energy. We appreciate Martin Seim<br />
and B. Naqqi Manco for being our <strong>of</strong>ficial photographers!<br />
And <strong>of</strong> course, thanks to Mrs. Gre<strong>the</strong> Seim for her vision<br />
and generosity which made this event—and <strong>the</strong> whole<br />
Turks & Caicos National Museum—possible. a<br />
To join*, send name, address, email, and type <strong>of</strong><br />
membership, along with cheque or money order<br />
payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:<br />
Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum<br />
39 Condesa Road<br />
Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA<br />
Or, visit:<br />
www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/<br />
*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum is tax-deductible<br />
via Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn:<br />
Donald H. Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our<br />
affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 71
food for thought<br />
Opposite page: A cold glass <strong>of</strong> Turk’s Head Lager is deemed “<strong>the</strong> quintessential refreshing beer,” a staple for a hot, sunny beach day.<br />
Above: Tours <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turk’s Head Brewery are now available. The manufacturing process, from start to finish, is fascinating!<br />
Brewed in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
Turk’s Head Brewery is now open for tours.<br />
Story & Photos By Kathy Borsuk<br />
I still remember <strong>the</strong> day we took my 92-year-old grandfa<strong>the</strong>r to tour <strong>the</strong> Anheuser-Busch brewery in<br />
Milwaukee, Wisconsin. After walking through vast rooms in <strong>the</strong> huge plant, climbing countless flights<br />
<strong>of</strong> stairs, and (trying to) listen to <strong>the</strong> guide over <strong>the</strong> factory’s din, we finally reached <strong>the</strong> tasting room.<br />
My dear Czechoslovakian grandpa’s understated comment? “That was a lot <strong>of</strong> work for a glass <strong>of</strong> beer.”<br />
I think he’d be surprised at <strong>the</strong> current attraction <strong>of</strong> craft beers, tours <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> breweries that make<br />
<strong>the</strong>m, and tasting rooms that have taken on <strong>the</strong> aura <strong>of</strong> a science lab. He’d be even more surprised to<br />
learn <strong>the</strong>re is now such an operation in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 73
Since 2001, <strong>the</strong> Turk’s Head Brewery has been operating<br />
in a group <strong>of</strong> large warehouses in <strong>the</strong> industrial area<br />
<strong>of</strong> Providenciales, just east <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Five Cays “shortcut” <strong>of</strong>f<br />
Leeward Highway. Our storage locker is just behind <strong>the</strong><br />
brewery, and its presence finally explains <strong>the</strong> mysterious,<br />
heady aroma I <strong>of</strong>ten smelled while unloading magazines.<br />
The brewery is part <strong>of</strong> Provo Beverages, along with <strong>the</strong><br />
TC Crystal Pure Water company, and in spite <strong>of</strong> refilling<br />
my plastic gallons <strong>the</strong>re every day, I never knew that beer<br />
was being brewed in <strong>the</strong> back.<br />
Currently, Turk’s Head Brewery makes lager, amber<br />
ale, IPA and light versions <strong>of</strong> Turk’s Head Beer. You can<br />
find <strong>the</strong> products sold in most grocery and liquor stores<br />
in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, and served—ei<strong>the</strong>r bottled or on tap—at<br />
most restaurants and bars. The lager is <strong>the</strong> best seller,<br />
described as “<strong>the</strong> quintessential refreshing beer,” a staple<br />
for a hot, sunny beach day, and somewhat similar<br />
to Corona. The amber ale is more full-bodied, while <strong>the</strong><br />
India Pale Ale emits fruity aromas <strong>of</strong> papaya (I vouch for<br />
that!), with a tastebud-tickling touch <strong>of</strong> bitterness.<br />
Besides being <strong>the</strong> country’s most affordable beer, visitors<br />
and locals love to support this genuine product <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. For many tourists, <strong>the</strong>ir only<br />
complaint is that it is not currently sold <strong>of</strong>f-island. The<br />
brewery’s unique mobile bar is a staple at <strong>the</strong> popular<br />
Thursday Night Fish Fry, as well as most Providenciales<br />
sporting and charity events.<br />
Just prior to opening to <strong>the</strong> public, Sales & Marketing<br />
Representative Mike Bozzer led me on a private tour <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> brewery. Besides being fascinating (I, like many, am a<br />
devotee <strong>of</strong> “How It’s Made”), <strong>the</strong> tour revealed a spotless,<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essional plant complete with catwalks and a brandnew<br />
tasting room overlooking <strong>the</strong> bottling area. Here,<br />
visitors can sample each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> various draughts and purchase<br />
very cool Turk’s Head merchandise—t-shirts, caps,<br />
bottle openers, glasses, bar towels, and <strong>the</strong> like—to take<br />
home as souvenirs.<br />
The brewing process begins with ultra-refined<br />
desalinated water (made on-site at <strong>the</strong> water plant),<br />
barley imported by <strong>the</strong> container-load from Minnesota,<br />
Germany and elsewhere, and hops shipped in from places<br />
as far-ranging as New Zealand and <strong>the</strong> Pacific Northwest.<br />
Mike explained that <strong>the</strong> first step is converting <strong>the</strong> natural<br />
starch in <strong>the</strong> malted grain to sugar, done by soaking <strong>the</strong><br />
barley in warm water to release <strong>the</strong> enzymes, <strong>the</strong>n boiling<br />
this sugar water in a kettle to concentrate <strong>the</strong> sugar and<br />
sterilize and purify <strong>the</strong> “wort.” Next, <strong>the</strong> hops are added,<br />
with amount and timing Brewmaster Eric Cardin’s calls<br />
depending on <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> beer being brewed. The mixture<br />
is <strong>the</strong>n sent through a heat exchanger to rapidly chill,<br />
Left: These 80-barrel fermenters hold <strong>the</strong> beer for as long as several weeks, depending on <strong>the</strong> beer type.<br />
Right: Following filtration, <strong>the</strong> beer is ei<strong>the</strong>r bottled, canned, or kegged, each date-stamped for freshness.<br />
74 www.timespub.tc
Above: Turk’s Head Brewery currently makes a light ale, an amber<br />
ale, <strong>the</strong> popular lager, and a full-bodied IPA. After <strong>the</strong> brewery tour,<br />
visitors can sample each brew in <strong>the</strong> tasting room.<br />
Below: In 2016, <strong>the</strong> brewery produced <strong>the</strong> equivalent <strong>of</strong> two million<br />
bottles <strong>of</strong> beer, sold throughout <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
before being put in glycol-jacketed fermenters with yeasts<br />
added to convert <strong>the</strong> sugar to alcohol. The mixture is<br />
allowed to ferment and age for as long as several weeks,<br />
depending on <strong>the</strong> beer type. Generally, <strong>the</strong> more sugars<br />
in <strong>the</strong> wort, <strong>the</strong> stronger <strong>the</strong> concentration <strong>of</strong> alcohol.<br />
Finally, <strong>the</strong> beer is carefully filtered to ensure a clean,<br />
crisp product. Following filtration, it is ei<strong>the</strong>r bottled,<br />
canned or kegged, each date-stamped to ensure freshness.<br />
Random bottles are regularly tested to maintain<br />
<strong>the</strong> product’s integrity. From <strong>the</strong>re, <strong>the</strong> product is packaged<br />
and distributed across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Although <strong>the</strong>re is a four-month shelf life, Mike says rarely<br />
does <strong>the</strong> beer remain in its container for that long!<br />
Operating at capacity, in 2016 <strong>the</strong> brewery produced<br />
<strong>the</strong> equivalent <strong>of</strong> two million bottles <strong>of</strong> beer. Employing<br />
25 to 30 people, <strong>the</strong> locally owned Turk’s Head Brewery<br />
can be said to be <strong>the</strong> country’s largest industrial producer,<br />
and quite a success story. The original plant<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 75
A variety <strong>of</strong> souvenirs are available for sale in <strong>the</strong> Turk’s Head<br />
Brewery’s ad_Layout new tasting 1 11/16/16 room. 2:11 PM Page 1<br />
Looking for something a little different?<br />
Take a Turk’s Head Brewery Tour!<br />
Experience a wide variety <strong>of</strong> beer from <strong>the</strong> Island’s ONLY local brewery.<br />
DAILY TOURS AVAILABLE STARTING WINTER 2016.<br />
Call (649) 941-3637 or email info@turksheadbeer.com<br />
for more information.<br />
Located at 52 Universal Dr. - Just <strong>of</strong>f South Dock Rd., Providenciales.<br />
started with a ten barrel system and sold only kegs to<br />
a few restaurants and hotels; since mid-2013 twelve<br />
80-barrel fermenters (each holding about 1,000 cases <strong>of</strong><br />
beer) are producing millions <strong>of</strong> dollars worth <strong>of</strong> product,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> new beers have entered <strong>the</strong> high-end market.<br />
The brewery/water plant also markets two o<strong>the</strong>r refreshing<br />
drinks: Bambashay Caicos Cran (a vodka-cranberry<br />
cocktail) and <strong>the</strong> popular Bambarra Cuba Libre (a classic<br />
version <strong>of</strong> rum and cola), both available in cans to easily<br />
take to <strong>the</strong> beach or on boats.<br />
The tour and tasting room opened in February <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
One-hour tours are <strong>of</strong>fered several times daily, six days<br />
a week. Besides sampling <strong>the</strong> six current products, visitors<br />
may also have <strong>the</strong> chance to try <strong>the</strong> brewmaster’s<br />
specials—one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind stouts, pilsners, and wheat beers<br />
being tested for sale at select restaurants or as potential<br />
new <strong>of</strong>ferings. The tasting room is also available for<br />
rental for special events like bachelor or birthday parties.<br />
Just like its sister company TC Crystal, <strong>the</strong> Turk’s<br />
Head Brewery is heavily involved in <strong>the</strong> community.<br />
Besides sponsoring numerous environmental events and<br />
a recent 10K race for <strong>the</strong> Delano Williams Foundation,<br />
all proceeds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mobile bar at sailing regattas sponsored<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Provo Sailing Club are donated back to <strong>the</strong><br />
organization. They also sponsor <strong>the</strong> Turk’s Head All Fleet<br />
National Sailing Championships. TC Crystal bottles water<br />
in 63% biodegradable bottles, and regularly sponsors<br />
beach clean-ups, school promotions, and has donated<br />
dozens <strong>of</strong> garbage drums to help keep <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> clean.<br />
That in itself deserves a toast! a<br />
For more information, call 649 241-4311 or email tours@<br />
turksheadbeer.com.<br />
MOV-A-THON<strong>2017</strong>_Layout 1 2/16/17 8:06 AM Page 1<br />
<br />
Nutrition in Demand, , a non pr<strong>of</strong>it raising awareness to<br />
<strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> health and healthy eating<br />
Motto: eating healthy today... living longer, better tomorrow<br />
• Educational workshops for seniors, adults, children & teenagers<br />
• Nutrition and physical activity summer camp<br />
• Nutrition education and culinary class for children<br />
• Weight loss support groups • Nutrition education for mass media<br />
To donate to our non pr<strong>of</strong>it or to one <strong>of</strong> our programs,<br />
visit our website: www.nutritionindemand.com<br />
or call: (649) 442-3978<br />
For individual Medical Nutrition Therapy counseling, corporate wellness<br />
and lunch & learns, please contact Mrs. Tamika Handfeld MS, RD<br />
Provo Plaza No.5, Leeward Highway<br />
Call: (649) 442-3978<br />
76 www.timespub.tc
shape up<br />
Chocolate, grapes and your heart<br />
By Tamika Handfield MS, RD, Nutrition in Demand<br />
In February, we celebrated Valentine’s Day and observed<br />
Heart Health Awareness Month. So it is a perfect time to<br />
talk about phytonutrients—a class <strong>of</strong> chemicals found<br />
in various plant foods that <strong>of</strong>fer health benefits. Here<br />
we will cover only two—flavonoids and polyphenols.<br />
It may surprise you that chocolate has phytonutrients!<br />
Various research studies now suggest chocolate<br />
has some heart-healthy benefits—such as helping to<br />
lower cholesterol levels and decreasing <strong>the</strong> likelihood<br />
<strong>of</strong> suffering a stroke. However, <strong>the</strong>re is a disclaimer;<br />
it seems only dark chocolate <strong>of</strong>fers <strong>the</strong>se benefits<br />
because <strong>of</strong> a class <strong>of</strong> phytonutrients known as flavonoids.<br />
(Sugary milk chocolate has been associated with<br />
obesity, tooth decay, and acne.) Cocoa beans, from<br />
which dark chocolate is made, are a very good source <strong>of</strong><br />
flavonoids. However, <strong>the</strong> high flavonoid content gives<br />
cocoa a naturally strong taste. To make it more palatable,<br />
cocoa is processed which leads to <strong>the</strong> decrease <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> flavonoid properties and benefits. As in all things,<br />
moderation is <strong>the</strong> key.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r class <strong>of</strong> phytonutrients that <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
heart-protective benefit is polyphenols. Polyphenols<br />
have become quite popular in recent years because,<br />
like its counterpart flavonoid, it helps to prevent blood<br />
clots, lower blood pressure and improve <strong>the</strong> function <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> blood vessels—all leading to better heart function.<br />
While <strong>the</strong>re are thousands <strong>of</strong> polyphenols, <strong>the</strong> one<br />
that has gotten <strong>the</strong> most media coverage is resveratrol.<br />
It is common knowledge now that a glass or two<br />
<strong>of</strong> red wine consumed daily can help to prevent heart<br />
disease; however, not everyone wants to drink wine<br />
or any o<strong>the</strong>r alcohol and may be wondering how <strong>the</strong>y<br />
can get <strong>the</strong> same benefits. Luckily, many o<strong>the</strong>r foods<br />
such as grapes, apples, onions, soy, peanuts, berries,<br />
and several o<strong>the</strong>r vegetables and fruits are packed with<br />
polyphenols!<br />
Additionally, research shows that indeed grape<br />
juice made from Concord grapes <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong> same protection<br />
as red wine (and in some cases, more). The<br />
reason for this is that some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chemicals used to<br />
prevent fungal growth on <strong>the</strong><br />
grapes destroy some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
resveratrol. Red and dark-purple<br />
grapes consumed with <strong>the</strong><br />
skins are also good sources <strong>of</strong><br />
vitamins C, E, potassium and<br />
fiber. It is important to remember, though, that much<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nutritional benefit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> grape is found in its<br />
skin and seeds ra<strong>the</strong>r than <strong>the</strong> pulp. I have seen many<br />
people sit and painstakingly peel <strong>the</strong> skin <strong>of</strong>f and, at<br />
<strong>the</strong> same time, unknowingly discard most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nutritional<br />
value.<br />
Grapes are an amazingly refreshing low-calorie<br />
snack and can be enjoyed in a variety <strong>of</strong> ways:<br />
• Freeze grapes for a cool snack on a hot summer day;<br />
• Serve stewed grapes with meat items;<br />
• Add grapes to pasta dishes for a touch <strong>of</strong> sweetness;<br />
• Add to a green salad or fruit salad;<br />
• Serve grapes with wine, cheese and crackers as a<br />
delectable party food;<br />
• And my husband swears that grapes with lightly<br />
salted peanuts is a snack compared to none o<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
So, go ahead and show your heart some love<br />
through making wise food choices. a<br />
This article is brought to you by Nutrition in Demand,<br />
a nonpr<strong>of</strong>it aimed at raising health and healthy eating<br />
through a variety <strong>of</strong> workshops, seminars, nutrition<br />
and physical activity camps, culinary and nutrition<br />
education classes for schoolchildren, public service<br />
announcements, and print and visual media. For more<br />
information on Nutrition in Demand, please visit our<br />
website: www.nutritionindemand.com or follow us on<br />
social media — Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 77
shape up<br />
Did you miss something?<br />
By Meelike Mitt, Personal Trainer, Nutrition Consultant, Lifestyle Coach<br />
Wrightfully Fit Sport Centre, Providenciales<br />
What have you done for <strong>the</strong> last six months to have<br />
more energy, to sleep better and feel great? The reason<br />
I ask this question is simple—in all my experience<br />
within <strong>the</strong> fitness industry unless you are serious about<br />
making a change it won’t happen.<br />
We need to raise our standards. We could all wake<br />
up in <strong>the</strong> morning feeling wonderful, full <strong>of</strong> energy,<br />
ready to take on <strong>the</strong> world, but most <strong>of</strong> us have a set <strong>of</strong><br />
values that stops us from doing this. We need to start<br />
asking more <strong>of</strong> ourselves.<br />
Start by determining which areas <strong>of</strong> your life need<br />
to be raised or improved. Write down a list <strong>of</strong> where<br />
your standards are low and focus on <strong>the</strong>m. Spend some<br />
time alone. Realize who you really are. Smile, look good<br />
and tell yourself you’re worth it. Even with your failures<br />
and flaws you are still an amazing person. Don’t let<br />
anyone change your mind!<br />
The second thing you have got to change is your<br />
approach. Too many <strong>of</strong> us carry on doing things even<br />
when that approach does not work anymore. How many<br />
people have tried dieting? You go on a diet, lose weight,<br />
come <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> diet and <strong>of</strong>ten put <strong>the</strong> weight back on (and<br />
more). So after that we <strong>of</strong>ten go back on <strong>the</strong> same diet<br />
that didn’t give long-lasting results in <strong>the</strong> first place!<br />
It’s crazy, but we all do it.<br />
We have to start asking <strong>the</strong> “why” questions. Why<br />
aren’t I losing weight? Why can’t I keep it <strong>of</strong>f? Is it aging?<br />
No! Too many people hide behind this excuse. Aging is<br />
not a disease, it’s a process. Sometimes <strong>the</strong> problem is<br />
that we spend all our time pushing our careers, starting<br />
families, eating poorly, and under-exercising and <strong>the</strong>n<br />
suddenly wonder what happened to our bodies. It’s<br />
not age but <strong>the</strong> disdain with which we treat our bodies<br />
that leads to premature aging. We have to change our<br />
approach.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r area to consider is consistency. Most <strong>of</strong><br />
us are consistently bad! But we have to build consistency<br />
into our program, as consistency brings results!<br />
Being consistent is essential if you want to make any<br />
significant change in your life—making progress, doing<br />
better work, getting in shape,<br />
and achieving some level <strong>of</strong><br />
success in most areas <strong>of</strong> life.<br />
One more thing to touch,<br />
which is very important, is<br />
stress. We all respond differently to stress, both psychologically<br />
and physically. I see people every week<br />
where stress has taken over <strong>the</strong>ir life. Unfortunately,<br />
research reveals that it’s also a fact <strong>of</strong> fat. Even if you<br />
usually eat well and exercise, chronic high stress can<br />
prevent you from losing weight. Also get enough sleep.<br />
This means eight hours <strong>of</strong> good-quality sleep on a regular<br />
schedule each night. Make changes to your routine<br />
if you can’t find enough time to sleep.<br />
Don’t forget your smile . . . you need to be happy!<br />
Find your own way to be happy, find your own activities<br />
that bring you joy. Keep moving as it gives you more<br />
energy and if you have more energy it makes you smile.<br />
Stop sitting and go for a walk, a run, play a game,<br />
go bush-walking or dance as if no one is watching.<br />
Exercising gets <strong>the</strong> endorphins flowing and is guaranteed<br />
to make you feel good. Happiness makes you feel<br />
less stressed, it energizes your immune system, it lets<br />
you think more clearly, it’s more fun, and <strong>of</strong> course it<br />
brings out positivity, a wonderful energy to work with.<br />
Practice finding moments to be happy on a day-to-day<br />
basis. a<br />
Meelike Mitt loves guiding people whose aim is to<br />
achieve better physical fitness, health and self-satisfaction<br />
through trainings and nutrition. She has<br />
graduated from Tallinn University <strong>of</strong> Health Sciences<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Institute <strong>of</strong> Sports in Estonia and has completed<br />
a course in Personal Fitness Training. Besides personal<br />
training, she is certified in BodyPump, Bodybalance,<br />
Reebok Core Board & Fitball, Functional Training,<br />
Chiball, Pilates, Yoga, Real Ryder and Spinning workouts.<br />
For more information, call Meelike at 649 441<br />
6051 or email meelike@wrightfullyfit.com or visit<br />
wrightfullyfit.com.<br />
78 www.timespub.tc
faces and places<br />
To end <strong>the</strong> Colour Run, kids and adults have to throw bags <strong>of</strong> colour into <strong>the</strong> air!<br />
Colour Run<br />
On January 29, <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Provo Hockey League held its Second Annual Colour Run at <strong>the</strong> Meridian Field in<br />
Providenciales, with <strong>the</strong> assistance <strong>of</strong> Islehelp.net and <strong>the</strong> tunes <strong>of</strong> DJ Viper. The community ran a 5K route <strong>of</strong> smiles<br />
through red, yellow, blue and green zones ending back at <strong>the</strong> start to more colour bombing and water balloons. All<br />
funds raised will help PHL bring affordable inline hockey to <strong>the</strong> boys and girls <strong>of</strong> TCI. For more information on PHL,<br />
visit phl.pointstreaksites.com.<br />
By Claire Parrish ~ Photos by Le Mens Welch, Caya Hico Media<br />
The route took runners from Meridian Field to <strong>the</strong> beach near Bay Bistro, onward to <strong>the</strong> beach at Villa Renaissance and back to <strong>the</strong> Meridian<br />
Field for more fun and games.<br />
Some ran fast, some ran slow; all ran with smiles.<br />
Come out for next year’s PHL Colour Run. You don’t have to play hockey, but all funds go into PHL’s special Community League.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 79
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />
with <strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 32,000.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />
airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />
arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />
Airport. During <strong>the</strong> busy winter season, American Airlines<br />
flies three times daily from Miami, daily from Charlotte,<br />
and from Boston, Dallas, New York/JFK on Saturday<br />
and from Philadelphia on Saturday and Sunday. JetBlue<br />
Airways <strong>of</strong>fers daily service from Fort Lauderdale, two<br />
daily flights from New York/JFK and flights from Boston<br />
on Saturday and Sunday. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta<br />
and New York/JFK daily. United Airlines flies from Newark<br />
daily and from Chicago and Washington DC on Saturday.<br />
West Jet travels from Toronto on Monday, Wednesday,<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
Friday and Saturday. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer daily flights from<br />
Toronto and flies from Montreal on Friday and Sunday.<br />
British Airways travels on Thursday and Sunday from<br />
London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />
Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;<br />
Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday, Wednesday,<br />
and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express<br />
travel to Haiti daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic daily (except Wednesday);<br />
to Jamaica on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday,<br />
and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.<br />
Inter-caribbean Airways also travels to both Santiago and<br />
Havana, Cuba, several times a week. (Schedules are current<br />
as <strong>of</strong> February <strong>2017</strong> and subject to change.)<br />
Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean<br />
Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea<br />
and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />
All Natural &<br />
Gluten Free<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
Time zone<br />
Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Made with family recipes that date back<br />
centuries, Islander, <strong>the</strong> original Turks and<br />
Caicos alcoholic ginger beer, is available on<br />
Providenciales at <strong>the</strong> Graceway Gourmet and<br />
<strong>the</strong> IGA, as well as local bars and restaurants.<br />
www.islandergingerbeer.com<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 81
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />
left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />
many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />
areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />
also available.<br />
Telecommunications<br />
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />
including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />
and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />
a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />
arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />
cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />
cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />
Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />
transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for T&C Islanders.<br />
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />
council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />
Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />
Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />
The legal system is based upon English Common<br />
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
82 www.timespub.tc
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong><br />
salt. Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry,<br />
and fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with<br />
<strong>the</strong> world’s first commercial conch farm operating on<br />
Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />
are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />
Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />
Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />
results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />
clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />
Health Services.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 83
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />
and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />
<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />
through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />
Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,<br />
scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />
and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,<br />
and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving<br />
destination. Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an eighteen hole<br />
championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />
thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,<br />
and areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust<br />
provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as<br />
guided tours <strong>of</strong> major historical sites. There is an excellent<br />
national museum on Grand Turk, with an auxillary<br />
branch on Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection<br />
<strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong><br />
outer islands.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />
available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />
centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are<br />
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
84 www.timespub.tc
where to stay<br />
Grand Turk<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
H<br />
The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />
Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •<br />
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />
Middle Caicos<br />
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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •<br />
North Caicos<br />
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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pine Cay<br />
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The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Parrot Cay<br />
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Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 866 388 0036/904 886 97768 • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Providenciales<br />
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Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />
The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />
Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />
Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />
Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.kokomobotanicalresort.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />
The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />
Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 85
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where to stay<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
Providenciales (continued)<br />
Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Shore Club on Long Bay – Tel 888 808 9488/649 339 8000 – www.<strong>the</strong> shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Venetian – Tel 866 242 0969/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />
West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay<br />
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />
The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos<br />
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />
H<br />
G<br />
Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />
Green Globe Certified<br />
Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />
86 www.timespub.tc
dining out – providenciales<br />
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />
cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.<br />
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />
catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for breakfast,<br />
lunch and dinner. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />
All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />
tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />
and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />
local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />
live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />
Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />
Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from 7<br />
AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />
on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />
Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-<br />
8122. Generous portions <strong>of</strong> local and international fare at<br />
moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.<br />
The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />
Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; famous for fish<br />
tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM.<br />
Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />
fried chicken, native fare.<br />
Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />
daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />
Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian<br />
cuisines. Take-away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily 11:30<br />
AM to 3 PM and 5:30 to 10:00 PM.<br />
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />
Serving dinner nightly from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday.<br />
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />
Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and<br />
tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game<br />
room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />
Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 245-0005. Experience<br />
<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />
with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open for dinner 5 to 10 PM daily<br />
except Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />
Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.<br />
Breakfast sandwiches, specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, soups, salads, gourmet<br />
sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to<br />
8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.<br />
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />
Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />
Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />
American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />
dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />
for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />
and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />
Live music Friday nights.<br />
Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront<br />
dining. Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily for<br />
lunch and dinner.<br />
Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />
dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />
Open daily.<br />
Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />
cuisine in an elegant setting. Open daily.<br />
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />
overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />
AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />
Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />
flavors and spices. Open for breakfast daily<br />
7:30 to 10:30 AM; dinner 6 to 9:30 PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />
cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />
on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Carry-out available.<br />
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.<br />
Open daily 11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out<br />
or delivery.<br />
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />
Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2017</strong> 87
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from<br />
6 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night on<br />
Tuesday with live music.<br />
Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-2233.<br />
Internet café, c<strong>of</strong>fee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches, fresh<br />
bakery. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM.<br />
The Grill — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />
Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.<br />
Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />
where <strong>the</strong> locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining<br />
or outdoors on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.<br />
Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />
5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />
Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />
Reservations required.<br />
Island Boochery — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 348-7027. Vegan<br />
lifestyle kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet.<br />
Open daily 10 AM to 6 PM; Saturday 10 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />
8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />
21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />
Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for<br />
steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,<br />
(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.<br />
Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:<br />
941-8388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting<br />
overlooking <strong>the</strong> sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;<br />
Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!<br />
KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />
Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />
under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />
5:30 PM to . . .<br />
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />
Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.<br />
Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />
taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />
tapas, dinner specials. Open daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />
French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />
Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
941-4069. Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,<br />
croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to<br />
7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />
world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian “comfort<br />
food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made<br />
gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />
bar opens at 4 PM.<br />
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />
and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />
dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />
go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />
Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.<br />
Carefully crafted selection <strong>of</strong> sumptous and inspired sundaes,<br />
with c<strong>of</strong>fee, champagne and cocktails for <strong>the</strong> grown-ups! Open<br />
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />
4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />
<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />
Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />
Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.<br />
Serving fresh local seafood straight from <strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10<br />
AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />
Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill<br />
International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving<br />
dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor<br />
dining. Conference facility, events, catering.<br />
Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in<br />
a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private<br />
dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.<br />
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />
flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />
global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />
for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />
Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />
Tel: 941-2365/431-9103. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />
Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />
from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />
Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />
Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />
AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />
Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront<br />
restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11<br />
PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.<br />
88 www.timespub.tc
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />
Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local<br />
flair. Open daily from 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />
Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,<br />
burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.<br />
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />
5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />
72West — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining<br />
with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch<br />
daily; dinner seasonally.<br />
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />
941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/game room<br />
with slots. Open daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />
smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />
Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />
fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />
weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />
Solana! on Grace Bay Beach — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-<br />
5254. The Grill Deck menu from sushi to burgers. Bar & Lounge<br />
curated cocktail list and tapas. Teppanyaki and Sushi Bar to<br />
engage directly with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />
Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />
Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />
produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />
lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-<br />
5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.<br />
Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.<br />
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />
941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />
Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fresh fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10<br />
PM. Breakfast on weekends.<br />
Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — Regent Village. Tel: 431-2233.<br />
Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />
toppings. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />
Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />
late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,<br />
island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for<br />
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.<br />
Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />
0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />
to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />
out available.<br />
Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel: 342-<br />
2472. Sophistication meets class at <strong>the</strong> new tapas eatery and<br />
entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.<br />
Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />
dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />
daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. a<br />
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Turks & Caicos<br />
VETERINARY<br />
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649-946-4353<br />
Caring for your pet as though<br />
it were our own since 1981<br />
SeaSwim change classified:Caicu Naniki classified<br />
HertzDollar_Layout 1 2/16/17 12:37 PM Page Skipper_Layout 1<br />
1 2/16/17 11:36 PM Page 1<br />
649.941.3910 649.946.4864<br />
Call Us.<br />
Whe<strong>the</strong>r it’s for <strong>the</strong> largest variety <strong>of</strong><br />
vehicles, or <strong>the</strong> better prices and<br />
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Open 8am to 5pm 7 days.<br />
After hours call<br />
Barry 332.0012 Patrice 332.8602 Sophia 331.9895<br />
Skipper’s<br />
TAXI & TOURS<br />
Lloyd “Skipper” Stubbs<br />
at your service<br />
GATEMAN8@HOTMAIL.COM<br />
PH: 649 241 9959<br />
PROVIDENCIALES,<br />
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are an inexpensive way to reach <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> readers, in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and around <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
call 649 431 7527 for information<br />
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Island Living<br />
explore <strong>the</strong> extraordinary ...<br />
Beach Villa, Sailrock Living, South Caicos<br />
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Condominium | Home & Villa | Land | New Development<br />
649.946.4474 | info@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />
Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club, The Palms, The Shore Club, The Sands<br />
Each So<strong>the</strong>by’s International Realty® <strong>of</strong>fice is independently owned and operated.