Times of the Islands Spring 2017


Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.






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6 From the Editor

13 Unsung Heroes

Paul Stephenson Higgs Sr.

By Dr. Carlton Mills

50 Island Hopping

Valentine’s Day Surprise

Story & Photos By Katie Gutteridge

59 Resort Report

Blue Haven Resort

By Kathryn Brown

72 Food for Thought

Brewed in the TCI

Story & Photos By Kathy Borsuk

77 Shape Up

Chocolate, Grapes and Your Heart

By Tamika Handfield

78 Did You Miss Something?

By Meelike Mitt

79 Faces & Places

Colour Run

By Claire Parrish

Photos By Le Mens Welch, Caya Hico Media

80 About the Islands/TCI Map

85 Where to Stay

87 Dining Out

89 Subscription Form

90 Classified Ads


20 Living the Dream

By Ben Stubenberg ~ Photos By Marta Morton

40 A Tough Roe to How

By Jody Rathgeb

46 Pre-Summer Looks from Emerald Islands

Fashion By Jeritt Williams

Photos By Ora Hasenfratz

54 A Warm Welcome: Blue Haven Marina

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy Blue Haven





On the Cover

Marta Morton travels around the Turks & Caicos taking

photographs when she is not busy as the owner

of Harbour Club Villas. Marta shot this photo on the

magical island of Salt Cay and it is one of her favorites.

She says, “Here you see St. John’s Anglican Church,

built in the early 1800s, with reflections in the salt

pond waters. The foreground is filled with the endemic

National Flower Turks & Caicos Heather (Limonium

bahamense) in full bloom. I’d never seen this rare plant

before, so I took hundreds of photos.” To see more of

Marta’s work, visit www.myturksandcaicosblog.com.


62 The French Connection

By John de Bry

67 Remembering Sherlin Williams

Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith


Green Pages

31 A Rare “Snowbird” Returns

Photos By Eric F. Salamanca

34 In Safe Hands

Story & Photos By Amy Avenant

36 Two Kews

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco


4 www.timespub.tc



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from the editor


This other-worldly photo taken on Leeward Beach in early winter is an example of the remarkable work done by resident photographer Lisa

Adara (lisaadaraphoto.com). She was also responsible for the photos of North and Middle Caicos mistakenly credited to Paradise Photography

in our last issue’s feature, “Changing Faces.” Thank you for your contributions, Lisa, and please forgive this editor’s error!

The Soul of a Place

As someone who has lived and worked in the Turks & Caicos Islands for 24 years, I wholeheartedly agree with Ben

Stubenberg’s comment, “There is a soul to the way of life of Turks & Caicos Islanders” and, like him, I never tire of

the place. Ben has contributed a comprehensive article, “Living the Dream,” on the realities of picking up and moving

to the Islands. I also concur that if you don’t sense the Islands’ “soul” in your bones after spending time among TCI

people and places, this probably is not the place for a long-term commitment.

To the best of my limited ability, and relying extensively on our valuable contributors, we try to distill that soul

within the pages of this magazine. And people who don’t get it, probably don’t read or enjoy Times of the Islands.

But if the spirit of this endearing place vibrates in your heart, you’ll probably be fascinated to learn about Paul Higgs,

one of TCI’s earliest politicians; mourn the passing of photographer/graphic artist extraordinare Sherlin Williams;

bewail the plight of the Piping Plover. Jody Rathgeb’s intriguing essay on TCI farmers will encourage you to seek out

local produce. The clothing designs of North Caicos native Jeritt Williams, presented in a series of breathtaking photos

shot at the Turks & Caicos Junkanoo Museum, will leave you awestruck at his talent. And you’ll look forward to

investigating the corners of Provo to search out Blue Haven Marina and the Turk’s Head Brewery. Ben’s observation

that living in TCI “requires essential qualities of tolerance, empathy, patience, humility, and respect” seems to me to

be a recipe for peace and a utopian community anywhere in the world.

Kathy Borsuk, Editor

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788

6 www.timespub.tc

Turks And Caicos


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Kathy Borsuk




Claire Parrish


Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, Kathryn Brown, Simon Busuttil,

Marta Calosso, John Claydon, Luc Clerveaux, John de Bry,

Elise Elliot-Smith, Katie Gutteridge, Tamika Handfield,

Dr. Donald H. Keith, Sidney Maddock, B Naqqi Manco,

Dr. Carlton Mills, Meelike Mitt, Claire Parrish,

Jody Rathgeb, Eric F. Salamanca, Pat Saxton, Caleb Spiegel,

Ben Stubenberg, Craig Watson, Kathleen Wood.

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B Naqqi Manco, Dr. Carlton Mills, Marta Morton,

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Elizabeth Turner, Le Mens Welch–Caya Hico Media.


Wavey Line Publishing, Sherlin Williams


Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL

Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is

published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd.

Copyright © 2017 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.

No part of this publication may be

reproduced without written permission.

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for

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Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but

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Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no

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subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or other errors.

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E-mail timespub@tciway.tc

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12 www.timespub.tc

unsung heroes

Paul S. Higgs, Sr. was an early advocate for the rights of Turks & Caicos

Islanders and foresaw tourism as key to the country’s progress.

Ahead of His Time

Paul Stephenson Higgs, Sr.

Story & Photo By Dr. Carlton Mills

One of the TCI’s “unsung heroes” is Paul Stephenson Higgs, Sr. During the early years of TCI’s political

history, he was a tireless advocate for the rights of Turks & Caicos Islanders. Before the first hotel was

built in Providenciales, he foresaw tourism as being the key to the country’s progress and development.

The 2016 TCI election day (December 15, 2016) would have been a proud occasion for the late stateman

as his grandson—Hon. Ralph Higgs—followed in his political footsteps, spearheading the tourist industry

which he envisioned so long ago as being the lifeline of the TCI.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 13

The Hon. Paul Stephenson Higgs was born in Bottle

Creek, North Caicos on February 2, 1898. He was married

to Brenetta E. Williams of Bottle Creek and the father of

four sons and four daughters.

Early life

Paul Higgs attended the Bottle Creek Primary School (now

Adelaide Oemler Primary School). As a young man, he

engaged in many of the activities preferred by his age

group. These included fishing, boat building and eventually

construction. He was an incredible sailor and

fisherman. He enjoyed fishing so much that he spent

long hours in the boat. Many times, his family would

worry about him because of the length of time he spent

at sea. He would return home sometimes long after ten in

the evening with a huge catch, some of which had already

begun to rot! He lost most of his catch because of this but

he did not worry about that. He was enjoying something

he loved.

Honourable Paul Higgs was one of the first political

representatives for North Caicos. During his tenure, the

island experienced many benefits. He was instrumental

in securing scholarships for several persons to pursue

studies in Teacher Education, Nursing and Agriculture in

Jamaica. He had a passion for education. He believed that

if the people of North Caicos were to assume responsible

positions within their country, education must play a pivotal

role. Some of the persons who received scholarships

at the time in North Caicos include Claudius and Carlton

Williams, Cecelia Gray and Raymond Gardiner. These individuals

went on to become prominent citizens in the TCI

due to efforts that were made by Hon. Higgs to ensure

overseas training for them.

The commencement of the popular road works programme,

which involved ensuring that the roads and

roadsides were properly maintained, was started under

Hon. Paul Higgs’ watch. This programme provided

employment opportunities for several persons on the

island who, under ordinary circumstances, would not

have been able to support themselves and their families.

Ironically, despite the progress we claim to have made

today, some political figures are still seeing this initiative

as the way to stimulate the economy in the Caicos Islands.

Paul Higgs was a hard-working, trustworthy, dedicated

and determined man. He was very bold and outspoken

and would give you a piece of his mind in a heartbeat.

He once told a renowned politician at a public meeting in

North Caicos to shut up because he “would not know ‘A’

if it was as big as the rafters in the building” where the

meeting was being held. He was alluding to the fact that

uneducated persons should not be in the forefront of politics.

At the same meeting, he also reprimanded the new

leader of the PDM Party, Hon. JAGS McCartney, referring

to them as the “Black Power Boys” and that there was no

need for that kind of movement in North Caicos. This was

because of the perception of the party at that time.

He was also a very religious man. He was not only a

Senior Deacon in the local Baptist Church, but he was the

person in charge of the church. One had to “tow the line”

under his leadership. He did not tolerate marital indiscretions

and laziness. He frowned on persons who could not

work due to minor illness such as the flu. He would often

be heard reminding workers that only lazy people had

time to be sick. He was never sick—not even on the day

of his sudden death.

Paul Higgs was a confidante and the local people who

lovingly referred to him as “Con Paul” (Cousin Paul) relied

on him regularly for advice. He also served in the very

sought after and important role of Justice of the Peace

and Marriage Officer in the island of North Caicos.

Hon. Paul Higgs played a pivotal role in the day-to-day

life of his people. In addition to his religious role, he also

represented the poor and downtrodden in the courts. He

sought justice, pro bono, for those who could not defend

themselves, despite not having any formal legal training.

This was a clear testament of his interest and concern for

his people.

A man with vision

Hon. Paul Higgs was a man with a vision. He envisioned

the demise of the salt and the sisal industries and argued

that although salt brought some prosperity to the TCI, he

believed that it was the main factor that contributed to

the country’s division—Turks against Caicos. At the time,

salt was only being produced in the Turks Islands (Grand

Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos) and most of the commercial

activity took place in Grand Turk. This made the Salt

Islands residents, particularly those on Grand Turk, to feel

that they were superior to people in the Caicos Islands.

“Caucus people” (as they were called by Salt Islanders)

had to travel many days in sloops to Grand Turk to trade

their ground provisions and sisal products. Although their

farm produce was badly needed in Grand Turk, these

hard-working and ambitious people were, in many cases,

mistreated and scorned during their visits. At that time,

there was a buoy placed in the waters to clearly demarcate

the separation between the Turks Islands and the Caicos

Islands. This was responsible for the phrase “West of the

14 www.timespub.tc

Buoy.” “Caucus people come from West of the Buoy,” was

a popular but not endearing term during those years.

Hon. Paul Higgs wanted to end this segregation and

replace it with a unified TCI. For this reason, he lobbied

in the State Council for the economy to be diversified. He

felt that the Islands should move towards being a tourist

destination. He obviously saw where this initiative would

have more far-ranging financial benefits to the lives of the

people of the TCI than what was being realized through

the salt industry.

Political challenges

One of Hon. Paul Higgs’ major tests came in the late 1950s

and early 1960s when the Federation Movement was the

political headline in the English-speaking Caribbean. The

TCI was no exception since the Islands were being administered

by Jamaica at the time and Jamaica was deeply

involved in the Federation and the self-determination

movement. Although the TCI was ruled by Jamaica, it had

not achieved the same status of internal self-government

as many countries involved in the Federation Movement.

The Federation issue was challenging to the TCI for

several reasons. Firstly, TCI was at the time regarded geographically

as part of the Bahamas and had close ties with

this country as many of its people had migrated there

seeking employment. Furthermore, the TCI’s agricultural

abilities were hampered by the poor quality of its

soil which did not permit for mass production of crops.

Because of this, the TCI relied heavily on imports from

neighbouring countries. Another serious challenge faced

was its distance away from the other Caribbean countries

involved in the Federation Movement, making travel and

communication between these countries almost impossible.

The TCI itself, because of its geographically scattered

nature, created administrative concerns. These challenges

led to the TCI’s inability to elect a representative to the

BWI Federation parliament. Turks & Caicos therefore

had no choice but to seek a special position within the

Federation, which limited its ability to become a full member

of the Federation as Jamaica was.

Under the administration of Jamaica, the TCI suffered

major political and economic injustices. Politically,

the Islands did not receive adequate representation. The

governor of Jamaica, who was also responsible for the

TCI, was seated in Jamaica and made decisions about the

Islands without consulting the TCI representatives who,

on occasions, had to travel by sloops to Jamaica and

missed many sittings of the Jamaican House of Assembly.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 15

Also, because of the limited numbers of TCI representatives,

even if they had arrived on time to attend House

meetings, they could not affect any real change for the

TCI as they were outnumbered. Jamaica in essence, was

seeking its own interest with little concern for the TCI.

Economically, Jamaica was benefitting from the TCI’s

salt industry by charging a tax on all exports of salt from

the TCI. The income from this tax went directly to support

Jamaica’s economy rather than being reinvested into

the TCI. This was a repeat of what was experienced in

the 1700s and early 1800s while TCI was being administered

by the Bahamas. This practice by Jamaica seriously

contributed to the further underdevelopment of the TCI.

It is important to note that all the commercial activity

was mainly between Jamaica and Grand Turk, making the

Caicos Islands dependent on Grand Turk for day-to-day

needs, further enhancing the superiority complex of the

residents of Grand Turk forementioned.

Based on those critical circumstances, it was decision

time for the British Crown Colony (the TCI). The decision

was whether the Islands should remain with Jamaica

or return as a full-fledged British Colony. Many heated

debates ensued, resulting in visits made by delegations

from the TCI to Jamaica and to England. Hon. Paul Higgs

was one of those persons who travelled to Jamaica and

finally to England to present the case on behalf of the

TCI withdrawing from Jamaica. Knowing how candid and

forceful he was, it is strongly believed that he influenced

several of his colleagues to take the same position as he

did. In fact, he was the spokesman for the Caicos group

and was reported as saying to the British Parliament,

“Anchor us off in the Atlantic Ocean. We refuse to suffer

one more day under Jamaica!”

When it came to the crucial vote in the TCI’s local

Legislative Council, made up of one member from Salt

Cay, one from South Caicos, two from Grand Turk, one

from Middle Caicos, three from North Caicos and one

from Blue Hills, the Yes’s won by one vote (five to four) in

favour of the TCI moving away from Jamaica and becoming

a full-fledged British Colony. This was symbolic of

Hon. Higgs’ strong stance against the harmful separation

between the Turks and the Caicos Islands. All the

representatives from the Turks Islands voted in favour of

remaining with Jamaica, while all the representatives in

the Caicos Islands, led by Higgs, voted for separation.

If it were not for his strong position and leadership,

supported by that of his colleagues Gus Lightbourne,

Emanuel Hall, James Walkin and Harry Musgrove, the TCI

might still be a colony of Jamaica to this day! One can

only assume that with the economic and political challenges

that Jamaica is currently facing, the TCI might

not be enjoying the high level of economic growth and

prosperity it now enjoys. These five brave men had finally

affected the change longed for by the Caicos Islands.

Following this vote, representatives in the Turks

16 www.timespub.tc


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Islands realized that the balance of power resided in the

Caicos Islands. They felt that to avoid further defeats,

a seat had to be taken away. The seats in Bottle Creek,

North Caicos were reduced from two to one. This seat

was placed in Grand Turk, giving the Turks Islands the

majority of seats.

Post-Jamaica years

Hon. Paul Higgs was a part of TCI’s pre-ministerial era.

He realized that the single member constituency that

currently existed could not reap the necessary rewards

for the TCI. Hence, he encouraged voters to support the

then-Labour Party which was spearheaded by Clarence

Jolly and others who had just returned home from the

Bahamas with experience in political organizations. Hon.

Higgs spoke out openly in favour of the Labour Party as

he felt that collectively, local representatives would be a

greater force to reckon with. He noted that every developed

country had a labour system of government. In his

view, the same should apply for the TCI.

He drew reference in his many political speeches to

countries such as Barbados, Jamaica and Trinidad and to

their respective Labour leaders—Errol Barrow, Alexander

Bustamante and Dr. Eric Williams. He was self-educated

and kept abreast of what was happening politically in

the Caribbean region and the role that Caribbean leaders

were playing in the lives of their people. Hon. Paul Higgs

admonished the TCI to follow the example around them.

He argued that the world was changing and that the TCI

should also change in order to remain competitive.

Hon. Paul Higgs was passionate about his people. He

argued that the TCI should make a serious effort to attract

foreign investment. He believed that this would be one of

the ways to reduce unemployment and raise the standard

of living of the people of the TCI. This, he believed, would

make the TCI a better place. This was his dream.

Hon. Paul Higgs saw the need for self-improvement

and cooperation to prevail in the TCI. This is what he

promoted over the years, particularly at the opening of

the House of Assembly. He believed that Turks & Caicos

Islanders should be the architects of their growth and

development. To this end, he pushed continuously for

Islanders to undertake advanced training, and advocated

for TCI people to go abroad and earn degrees in areas

such as Medicine, Agriculture and Education. These persons,

he opined, would be instrumental in charting a new

course for the TCI. He first coined the phrase “Turks &

Caicos Islanders First.”

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 17


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Hon. Paul Higgs was a warrior. He was a champion

for people’s rights, justice and equality. He felt the pain

that the people in the Caicos Islands were experiencing.

He experienced their struggle first-hand. He knew about

the rejection Caicos people encountered. He experienced

it first-hand. He knew of their unfair treatment and degradation.

He experienced it first-hand.

Despite being unpopular in certain circles, Hon. Paul

Higgs was a man of passion, a man of substance, a man

who cared. He placed country above self, a concept that

is desperately lacking among some politicians in the TCI

today. This is what is required of leaders. Hon. Paul Higgs

led by example.

The TCI has since seen the closure of the salt and

sisal industries and the growth and expansion of tourism

with flights from North America, the Caribbean and

Europe. This is undoubtedly Paul Higgs’ vision being

realized. What has made his vision so significant is that

tourism is now the focus of the Caicos Islandsthe very

islands that Hon. Higgs knew needed to grow and develop

in that direction. Some of his family members, including

two of his sons and one of his grandsons, have been

actively involved in the tourist industry in the TCI and the


Interestingly, Hon. Higgs himself was not a supporter

of the Black Power Boys’ new party, the PDM. He

obviously did not endorse some of the activities that the

group allegedly were engaged in. He obviously would

have supported their position on making Turks & Caicos

Islanders first in their country. This is what he wanted

to see. However, during the December 15, 2016 general

elections one of his grandsons, Hon. Ralph Higgs, who

resigned his post as the Director of Tourism to contest

a seat, on a PDM ticket in North and Middle Caicos won

convincingly and was appointed as the new Minister of

Tourism. Hon. Paul Higgs’ dream for TCI seems to have

come full circle.

At the age of 83, Paul Stephenson Higgs died suddenly

(without illness) on May 12, 1980 in Nassau,

Bahamas while visiting his children. He was buried in

Old Trail Cemetery there. TCI Chief Minister Hon. JAGS

McCartney was buried on that same day. Hon Higgs is

survived by two sons and one daughter. From the records,

his political career in the TCI spans from 1955 to 1962.

The 2016 TCI election day would obviously have been

a proud, joyous and exceptional one for Hon. Paul Higgs if

he were alive to see his bloodline following in his political

footsteps and spearheading the tourist industry which he

envisioned so long ago as being the lifeline of the TCI. a

18 www.timespub.tc

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Opposite page: One of the great joys of living in the Turks & Caicos Islands is mingling with people from different nationalities at community

events such as this sailing regatta on Grace Bay Beach.

Above: An afternoon of floating in the sea and sipping a tropical drink is another joy to be savored.

Living the Dream

Could a life in the Islands be in your future?

By Ben Stubenberg ~ Photos By Marta Morton, www.harbourclubvillas.com

It’s your last day of vacation in the Turks & Caicos, and you don’t want to leave. Maybe you’re gazing out

over that brilliant turquoise ocean with a cold drink in hand and thinking to yourself, “Wow, could I live

the dream?” Countless visitors have asked themselves and their partners that same question. And why

not? Gorgeous beaches, lovely people, cool vibe, tasty cafés, sports galore, warm sunshine and an aura

of peace and tranquility spark the imagination and create a sense of possibilities.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 21

Morning comes too soon, though. The taxi’s waiting

and ready to go. You stand in line at the airport, wait,

check in, wait some more, climb the stairway into that

gleaming airplane, and buckle up. Your mind gears shift

from the relaxed island vibe to the familiar world of efficient

processing of people and paper and things. The

plane takes off and banks out over gorgeous Grace Bay

and the surf-fringed reef. You crane your neck and press

your forehead against the window so you can get one last

glance. Then it all vanishes below the clouds. And the

dream, along with the vacation, starts to slip away.

Now home, you slide back into the comfortable routine

of the life you have built—and it’s not bad. In fact,

it’s pretty darn good. It got you a vacation on the best

beach in the world!

But maybe the dream lingers a little longer. You

remind yourself that you have entered “middle age” and

now is the time to take a turn in life. (Or at least explore

the options so you don’t have any regrets later.)

Is it really possible to open that door in the far

corner of your mind and walk down the unlit corridor

towards a new beginning? To swap out the routine of

reasonable certainty and expectations for the impetuous

soul of a dreamer who gave it all up to walk on a beach

in paradise?

It’s freezing outside, but you still feel the warm sand

under your toes. You still see that big orange sun sink

over the sea and every hue of pink and red paint the

clouds of a darkening sky. You still anticipate the quiet

arrival of another tropical night, strewn with a billion

stars, bright and sharp in the absence of ambient light.

And you still remember the small act of genuine kindness

from someone who made you feel welcome. If that’s you,

keep reading.

Before you take the leap

First, ask this essential question: “Can I appreciate the

fact that I will be a guest in someone else’s country with

a culture and way of doing things different from me?”

Think hard because it requires essential qualities of tolerance,

empathy, patience, humility, and respect. If your

answer is “No,” don’t come. Period. For all the easy-going

goodwill among locals and “expats” (expatriate foreigners

who live here), acceptance goes out the window for

those who come down with the wrong attitude or prove


Know this: The Turks & Caicos is not a place to escape

from problems and bring baggage filled with unresolved

issues. The Islands are too small, and whatever bad qualities

you have will be magnified. You won’t last. And even

Enjoying a sunset walk along a nearly deserted beach is one of the great pleasures the Turks & Caicos Islands have to offer.

22 www.timespub.tc

if you do, you won’t be happy.

But if you’re someone who sees these sunny isles as a

destination where you can open your heart and touch the

lives of others who hail from every corner of the world,

you have passed the first test. Living in the TCI is just as

much about being an agreeable, simpatico human being

as it is about relishing the exquisite natural environment.

Next, are you married, have kids, or are in a tight

relationship with someone? If so, you need to sit down

and have that frank talk to see if he or she shares that

tropical dream with the same passion. Often, one partner

will enjoy the vacation but for any number of quite legitimate

reasons— financial security, career, family—doesn’t

want to make the leap. Then you may have to compromise

and just take more vacations here, possibly buying

a house or condo that anchors you to the Turks & Caicos

without full-time commitment. That’s OK too.

Got kids? There are many excellent schools, and

youngsters who grow up here tend to be smart, secure,

open-minded, and well-adjusted. Still, uprooting them is

a hard call. So, you may have to delay the dream for a few

years for their sake, but that just gives you more time to

lay the groundwork for a future move.

Start exploring

Next comes the fun part where you take the time to really

get a feel for the place to see if it’s for you. Read all you

can about the history of the Islands and current events.

Local magazines (including this one) and newspapers—

hard copy and online—abound and provide a plethora of

valuable information. Watch local TV shows and listen to

radio stations for insightful local coverage.

Go to the Thursday Fish Fry in The Bight, but also plan

a visit around Maskanoo, the Caribbean Food Festival, the

Conch Festival, Valentine’s Day Cup and New Year’s at

Rickie’s Flamingo Café. Attend fundraisers for the Edward

Gartland Youth Centre, Provo Children’s Home, Turks &

Caicos Reef Fund, and curing breast cancer (In the Pink).

If you are sporty, consider taking part in one of many

well-organized events such as a run or swim race, triathlon,

sailing regatta, or a golf or tennis tournament. Soccer

for both children and adults is another popular sport.

Whether or not you are religious, visit one of numerous

churches of just about every denomination and hear

the exuberance of faith, often expressed in song.

Rent a car and hire a taxi for a couple of hours and

go all over the island. Use a guide to fill you in and share

their local knowledge. Stop in at a variety of bars and


From top: Maskanoo is an annual cultural festival just after Christmas,

filled with costumes, music, food, and a grand parade.

The Great Raft Race is part of the annual Fool’s Regatta, a fun day on

the water anticipated by residents young and old.

This group of schoolchildren are performing in the TCI Costume, with

each band of color signifying a different island.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 23

Meet and talk to lots of people, but don’t wear them

down with your hopes and dreams. Instead, ask what they

like best about being here. And if they are from somewhere

else, ask them what brought them here. Everyone

has a story. Now ask yourself, “Do I like the people around

me? Do I share the spirit?”

Most expats who move here had to navigate the

maze of requirements to make their dream come true,

no matter where they came from. That creates a sort of

self-selecting part of the population imbued with a strong

dose of adventuresome confidence—seekers who let

something go back home on the gamble it would work

out here. Make no mistake, they took risks and made

tradeoffs, and so will you. Just be clear-headed: While

the lifestyle is unrivaled, having some money behind you

makes it so much easier. This is hard place to be if you

are hurting for cash.

Keep in mind you’ll likely get valuable snippets of

knowledge, but not the full story because it’s not their

job to prepare you, even if you buy the drinks. For that

you should look into hiring someone to get you oriented.

At least one new service, Turks & Caicos Living, has

sprung up to give potential transplants a briefing tour

that covers the bases of living here from other expats

who’ve made the jump.

Schedule/price subject to change without prior notice.


Most North Americans and Europeans move here looking

for a less hectic, slower pace of life. That’s the allure

of living on a small island in the West Indies. And small

islands these are, but very well connected to the world.

Still, you need to be comfortable with limited roaming

space and what you can do without.

Providenciales has most of the essentials with supermarkets

and office supply and building material stores.

We have a fine bookstore, several boutiques, a couple of

yummy bakeries, and an excellent coffee roaster, brewer,

and rum distiller. There’s a modern hospital, well-stocked

pharmacies, and several very good private doctors

(including naturopathic and osteopathic), optometrists,

physical therapists, and even an acupuncturist. But it’s

not the vast shopping center of North America, and never

will be.

Take that as an opportunity to roll back and re-evaluate.

After all, whether you buy a luxurious beachfront

villa or choose less upscale quarters, isn’t entering this

little Eden about changing course, living life a bit untethered?

This is not where you come to replicate “home” with

palm trees and sand.

24 www.timespub.tc

To really appreciate what untethered means, take

a day or two to explore the “Out Islands” and see how

the old Caribbean ways are very much alive. For those

who want a complete break and yearn for an even slower

pace, consider settling in North Caicos, Middle Caicos,

The longest established legal practice

South Caicos or Salt Cay. These rural gems with spectacular

beaches and vast stretches of wilderness have only

in the Turks & Caicos Islands

a fraction of the population of Provo’s 25,000+ and few

of the conveniences. But the expats that live here love it

and rely on what is already in place—fresh fish and conch

Real Estate Investments

and healthy local produce. More importantly, they rely on

& Property Development

each other as they integrate into a more traditional Turks

& Caicos community of relationships.

Immigration, Residency

On North Caicos, this might mean sharing drinks and & Business Licensing

grilled snapper with Clifford and friends at the thatched

Company & Commercial Law

Barracuda Bar on the beach while listening to a “rake and

scrape” band. On tiny Salt Cay, it could be kicking back Trusts & Estate Planning

at the Coral Reef Bar and Grille watching for whales to

breach in the winter months. Of course, the expats bring

Banking & Insurance

in whatever else they need, but over time those needs

become less important. The demands of a busy metropolis

fade, replaced by the gift of serenity.

Grand Turk falls somewhere in the middle, with a few

1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97

more conveniences and a pleasant quietude. There are

Leeward Highway, Providenciales

Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI

cruise ship passengers during the day, but most hang

Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564

out in Margaritaville by the dock and depart by late afternoon.

Cockburn Town, the country’s capital, exudes

E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc

charm. Here you can wander down tree-shaded lanes with

Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70

Market Street, Grand Turk

100+ year-old houses, storefronts and quirky cafés. The

Juan Martinez Fall 15 Turks sixth_Layout & Caicos 1 5/27/16 Islands, 11:58 BWIAM Page 1

settlement meanders along a low bluff facing west for

Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758

spectacular sunsets framed by perfect beaches on either

E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc

side. Also, the town hosts the headquarters for the TCI

National Museum, a treasure for any lover of history.

Chloe Zimmermann, long-time Provo resident, owner

of Marco Travel, and agent with Forbes Realty, puts the


question of moving here this way, “Be alert and open

2 4 1 . 3 2 9 7

to emotions that both elate and trouble you about the

2 4 4 . 9 0 9 0

3 4 4 . 9 4 0 3

Islands. If it doesn’t feel right for you to live here, then it

2 4 4 . 6 1 9 1


doesn’t. No worries. At least you found out before making

one of the biggest commitments of your life. Just visit


for vacations. And if it does click, count yourself among

the fortunate.”

Finding a home—rent, buy or build?

Renting allows you to dip your toe without a major investment,

but be aware that rents can be high and good

places are limited on Provo. The short term rental market

serving visitors is hot right now, which is exacerbating

the scarcity of long term rentals.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 25


The author is a self-proclaimed “ocean man” and enjoys training swims in TCI’s crystal-clear waters. He is also co-founder of the annual “Race

for the Conch” Eco SeaSwim, next scheduled for July 1, 2017 along Grace Bay Beach.

Buying naturally ties you more to the community.

You are invested in the island and have a stake in its

future. Property on the beach or on a canal in Provo is in

scarce and expensive, particularly anything on Grace Bay

or in the Leeward area. But you only need go back from

the beach a few blocks and the price drops noticeably.

Houses with magnificent views on Long Bay or on a bluff

or hilltop in Long Bay Hills, Flamingo Pond, South Shore

or Thompson’s Cove can often be more reasonable.

One very attractive feature of buying is that there are

no restrictions on foreign individuals buying property

(but there are restrictions on foreign companies). And

there are no real estate taxes beyond a one-time stamp

duty. Stamp duty is calculated on a sliding percentage of

the sale price up to a maximum of 10% on Provo and up

to 6.5% on some of the other islands.

Another advantage of a house purchase of at least

$300,000 is that you can be eligible for a non-work

residency permit (with $1,500 fee every five years as

explained below). And still another bonus is that, subject

to certain qualifying criteria, you can bring down a full

container of household goods and pay a processing fee

at Customs of 7.5% on the value.

Building a house offers many advantages and,

although more intimidating, can actually be an incredibly

exciting and fulfilling experience. Immediate benefits

are that you get to choose the ideal location, design the

house exactly the way you want it (within budget, of

course) and you get a house without having to pay the

10% stamp duty on its value (you only pay stamp duty on

the value of the land).

If you decide that building is the way to go, there is

no better advice we can give than to first contact a locally

based, fully qualified professional architect. They will

be able to assist you in setting realistic budgets, advise

you on appropriate land purchases to suit your needs

and steer you all the way through the process, including

financing the build, choosing a contractor and completing

construction. They will also be able to help you select

legal assistance, furniture suppliers, landscapers and all

other aspects of designing and building a home. Be aware

that neither the building nor design industry is regulated

and therefore it is critical that you find someone properly

qualified and with a proven record of service in the


Note that construction costs are higher than the US,

driven largely by import duty on many building supplies

and increased cost of doing business generally.

Residency—the legal aspects

If it still feels right, it’s time to talk to an attorney who can

guide you through the nuances of residency, working,

26 www.timespub.tc

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1

banking, and investing. That’s when the dream can come

up against reality. Learn exactly what hurdles you have

to clear to make it happen. Here’s what to ask and what

you need to know:

1. Do you need to work? If yes, (meaning you have to

earn a living to survive,) you need a work permit that falls

into two basic categories:

• You can seek out an employer who needs your skills but

cannot find them among those with full citizen “Belonger”

status. That means your prospective employer has to

apply for a work permit for you, which includes advertising

the position. If no one qualified applies, you may be

hired, typically for a year or two at a time before you have

to renew. The employer must pay a work permit fee that

can amount to many thousands of dollars depending on

the skill level. That tends to dampen salaries. After 10

consecutive years you can apply for Permanent Residency

status (PRC) and the work permit fees no longer have to

be paid. The current fee for a PRC is $10,000.

• You can open your own business. For that you must

apply for a business license, which is reviewed for

approval depending on the nature of the business. While

not automatic, businesses that benefit the country with

Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,

mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.


Times of the Islands Spring 2017 27

three year periods before you have to renew again. This

is definitely the low risk option and may appeal to retirees

with a good pension or investment income, as you must

show you can support yourself. You may also qualify if

you can do your work remotely off-island so you are not

affecting local employment. This might be a consulting

business where the services are performed outside the

country or a stock day-trader. If you live here in this status

for 10 consecutive years, you can apply for a PRC

without the right to work.

• You can invest in a house for a minimum of $300,000

and get a homeowner’s residency permit. You will have

to pay $1,500 every five years, but you can generally live

here as long as you own the house. This type of residency

permit does not give you eligibility for a PRC after 10


• You can request visitor status for between 30 to 90

days at a time. For this you must leave the country when

the 90 days are up. But you can return a day later and

request another 90 days. This can be a good option if

you are spending part of your time back in your home

country and don’t really intend to live in the TCI full time.

Constant renewals every 30 to 90 days, however, can

invite close scrutiny of your purpose here. So, this is not

usually recommended as a long-term option.

If they say natural beauty—especially sun and sea—promotes healing

and reduces stress, a visit to Middle Caicos is a tonic.

investment and services are generally approved, as long

as they do not fall into restricted categories reserved for

Belongers. Some of these restricted categories include

taxi services, small to medium construction services,

and certain boat businesses. You can engage in these

restricted category businesses if you have a Belonger

business partner who owns a majority of the interest

in the business. Be advised that while you will not need

labour clearance to manage the business, you will have

to pay the maximum work permit fees that are currently

$9,500 per year. As with employee work permits, you can

apply for a PRC after 10 consecutive years and then not

have to pay the work permit fees.

2. Do you not have to work or will your work be performed

off-island? If so, you have three basic non-work

residency options.

• You can apply for a non-working residency permit. It

costs $1,500 a year and can generally be obtained for

3. Do you have serious medical issues or a criminal


• If you are planning to work, and thus be part of the

national medical and insurance system, you will need a

medical clearance done here with in-depth screening.

You may be rejected if you have serious medical conditions

that risk infecting others and/or will require the

health system to incur great expense. You will also need

a medical clearance if you are seeking a general non-work

residency permit for $1,500 a year, but the screening is

not as in-depth. Those using the homeowner residency

permit need not have a medical clearance.

• All categories of residency require that you provide a

police record from your home country showing you have

no criminal past, along with reference letters proving

good character.

Erica Krygsman, attorney at Provo law firm Twa,

Marcelin, and Wolf, advises, “Whatever your situation, you

would do best to understand and appreciate the rationale

behind the current immigration policies, which is

first and foremost to protect the livelihood and well-being

of the people of the Turks & Caicos Islands.”

28 www.timespub.tc

The reception you’ll get

What can you expect when you get here? This really

depends on your demeanor and mindset. It’s like any

small town—you develop a web of friends and contacts

and a reputation. Most expats give everyone a chance to

fit in and share their story because they’ve been there

too. Don’t blow it with inflated self-importance.

Equally welcoming are locals. But again, it depends

on the way you come across. Show arrogance, and you’re

done. Most of the time, things work fine. And when they

don’t, chill out and remember: Folks are not here to make

sure your Big City expectations are promptly met. Show a

little sensitivity and you will get along just fine.

Sure, expats are easier to get to know because you

come from a common background and experience. So

it’s easy to drift into exclusive circles. But cut yourself off

from the local population, and you’ll miss some of the

most precious moments of living here.

Once when emerging from the water on the far end

of Grace Bay after a swim, a group of locals preparing

a BBQ on the beach called out, “Hey, you want to have

a beer with us? How about some food? Got some good

stuff cookin’ up.” Heck, they didn’t owe me anything, but

there they were sharing what they had with a stranger

who came out of nowhere. How cool is that?

Another time I heard loud calypso and reggae music

coming from the beach in the Leeward area. I slipped on

my sandals and ambled toward the sound a few blocks

away. When I got there, about 30 locals were dancing Harbour on Club:Layout 1

the sand to the sounds played by a DJ. On seeing me,

their first words were a very concerned, “Are we too loud?

We can turn it down.” I assured them it was just fine.

“Well, then have a drink and hang out for a while.” Once

again, a stranger just shows up and is made to feel welcome.

There is a soul to the way of life of Turks & Caicos

8/17/16 10:16 AM Page 1

Islanders, as well as the amazing diversity of humanity

woven into the tapestry of this micro-universe. When you

Turtle Tail Drive, Providenciales

come across it, embrace with gusto!

Six one-bedroom villas.

Dive operators at our dock.

When it comes to service, consider how Caicos Bonefishing in the lake.

Express Airlines handled a customer who had just missed

a flight to Salt Cay. She had hoped to make the connection

Fabulous beaches nearby.

Ideal for couples or groups.

after flying down from Toronto in mid-February, but

the Canadian plane had been delayed. The eight-seater

Caicos Express flies to Salt Cay only four days a week, so

she would have to wait a couple more days in Provo. But

the customer was so understanding that the quick-thinking

Trip Advisor

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Awards Winner

E: harbourclub@tciway.tc

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called the captain of the aircraft, who was taxiing to the for details.

runway, and asked if he could return to the gate to pick

Harbour Club Villas


Times of the Islands Spring 2017 29

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tel. 649-232-1393

up one more passenger. He did. The little door at the

back of the plane opened and the steps dropped down.

She scurried up and flew away. Where else is that going

to happen?

Finally, there’s another kind of reception that may

be waiting for you, but it’s not from people. Rather, it’s a

sense of well-being that derives from proximity to water.

According to Wallace J. Nichols, author of Blue Mind, neurological

studies show that just looking at blue water

affects your brain positively by reducing stress.

Grace Bay Medical Centre has taken this a step further

and developed a broad-based Wellness Program that

integrates the natural positive aspects of sun and sea

to enhance and promote healing. Island Naturopath Dr.

Meghan O’Reilly explains, “Research clearly shows that

the natural environment has a direct impact on health. So

we make sure that everyone going through the program

takes full advantage of the exceptional conditions in the

Turks & Caicos, including ocean water therapy.”

Indeed, the evidence is building that being visually

close to and possibly immersed in pleasant watery environments

makes people healthier and happer. Certainly,

few living on this 100 mile-long archipelago surrounded

by clear, warm ocean would argue with that.

Visitors often ask residents if they ever get bored

or tired of island life. It’s a fair question, but one that

is likely answered with a smile, “No, never. Watching

the sunrise bring in a new day moves me as much now

as when I first arrived.” Feel that, and you can live the

dream. a

Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to Times of

the Islands with a passion for the Turks & Caicos. Ben

is co-founder of the vacation adventure company Caicu

Naniki Adventures and the annual swim race “Race for

the Conch” Eco-SeaSwim. An avid ocean man and frequent

guide for dreamers, he can be reached at ben@



Twa, Marcelin, Wolf/Attorneys at Law

Chloe Zimmermann/Forbes Realty & Marco Travel

Grace Bay Medical Centre/Health & Wellness

Turks & Caicos Reservations/Bookings & Island Living

Visit Turks & Caicos Islands/Website

Simon Wood/Architecture

Norstar Group/Construction

Caicu Naniki/Island Living & Vacation Adventures

30 www.timespub.tc

green pages

newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc

This rare Piping Plover was spotted at East Bay Cay, North Caicos on January 25, 2017.


A Rare “Snowbird” Returns

Piping Plovers return to the TCI for the winter.

By Eric F. Salamanca (DECR), Elise Elliot-Smith (US Geological Survey), Caleb Spiegel and Craig Watson

(US Fish and Wildlife Service), Sidney Maddock (Contractor for Environment and Climate Change Canada),

Simon Busuttil (Turks & Caicos National Trust & Royal Society for the Protection of Birds), Kathleen Wood

(SWA Environmental), Bryan Manco (DECR), Luc Clerveaux, Marta Calosso and John Claydon (DECR)

The mudflats and sandy beaches of the Turks & Caicos Islands have long attracted Piping Plovers.

However, due to their cryptic colouring and use of remote beaches, we are just beginning to learn of

their presence here. The Piping Plover is a rare shorebird that breeds in the United States and Canada

and migrates to the southern USA, Caribbean, and Mexico for the winter. The International Union for the

Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List has listed this bird as “Near Threatened,” while the US and Canada

have it federally listed as “Threatened/Endangered.”

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 31

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

Wintering birds from USA and Canada spend considerable

time in the TCI, probably due to the favourable

climate and habitats. Piping Plovers prefer mudflat and

sandy beach habitats. Mudflats, also known as tidal flats,

are coastal wetlands that appear when shallow flats are

exposed by tides.

Mangroves constitute an important part of muddy

coastlines, both biologically and for stability. Any disturbance

or damage to mangroves, such as clearing or

cutting, can cause severe problems, decreasing biodiversity

and causing erosion and flooding, thereby affecting

the wintering habitats of Piping Plovers.

The Piping Plover (Charadrius melodus) is a small

shorebird that nests and feeds along coastal sand, mudflats

and beaches. The Piping Plover’s diet includes

marine worms, fly larvae, beetles, insects, crustaceans,

mollusks and other small invertebrates. When it spots

prey, the plover will quickly run after it, stop suddenly,

and then quickly snatch it up.

In 2011, many local bird enthusiasts had reported

Piping Plover sightings during the winter months, but no

authoritative confirmation of the birds’ migration to TCI

had yet been made. They were observed in the northern

Bahamas at that time (Gratto-Trevor, et.al., 2016). The

preferred wintering habitats in the Bahamas are replicated

in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Knowing this, in 2016 a

group of researchers from the US Geologic Survey (USGS)

and US Fish and Wildlife Service (UFWS), in cooperation

with the TCI Department of Environment and Coastal

Resources (DECR) conducted a preliminary survey and

found 96 Piping Plovers and 57 Wilson’s Plovers in TCI.

This year (2017), the same group, with the addition of

Environment and Climate Change Canada, Turks & Caicos

National Trust, the UK’s Royal Society for the Protection

of Birds (RSPB) and SWA Environmental collaborated to

conduct a similar study but to cover more areas.

This year’s preliminary results recorded 174 Piping

Plovers (78 more than last year), observed at East Caicos,

South Caicos, Little Ambergris Cay, Little Water Cay, Fort

George and the East Bay Cays off North Caicos. Banded

Piping Plovers (e.g. those with coded bands on their legs)

were tracked and found to have originated on the breeding

grounds in the USA and Canada. This finding, also

observed in 2016, confirms that endangered and threatened

birds that breed in the USA and Canada spend their

winter in TCI. The excellent habitats, including secluded

and undeveloped mudflats and sandy beaches, are definitely

among the many factors that make TCI an attractive

wintering area for many migratory birds. In addition to

the large number of Piping Plovers, the survey team found

several hundred of another US and Canadian “threatened”

shorebird, the Red Knot (Calidris canutus), on remote

sand bars near Middle Caicos. This year’s survey also

recorded more than 3,500 wintering shorebirds.


The Piping Plover is a small, stout shorebird, with a large,

rounded head, a short, thick neck and a stubby bill. It is

a sand-colored, dull gray/khaki, sparrow-sized shorebird.

The adult has yellow-orange legs, a black band across

the forehead from eye to eye and a black ring around the

neck during the breeding season. During nonbreeding

season, the black band becomes less pronounced. Its bill

is mostly black, with a small amount of orange at the

base. It ranges from 15–19 cm (5.9–7.5 in) in length, with

a wingspan of 35–41 cm (14–16 in) and a mass of 42–64

g (1.5–2.3 oz).


Piping Plovers breed on open sand, gravel, or shell-strewn

beaches and alkali flats. Each nest site is typically near

small clumps of grass, drift, or other windbreak. In winter,

birds prefer sand beaches and mudflats. Migrants are

seldom seen inland, but occasionally show up at shores,

river bars, or alkali flats.

Conservation status

The Piping Plover is globally threatened or endangered,

depending on the location, with fewer than 9,000 individuals

in the world. In the US Great Lakes region, it

has been listed as “Endangered” and it is considered

“Threatened” in the remainder of its US breeding range.

32 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

The Piping Plover survey team is looking for these illusive birds at East Bay Cay, North Caicos.


In eastern Canada, the Piping Plover is considered an

“Endangered” species. In the Turks & Caicos Islands,

this bird is listed as “Rare and Endangered” (Wildlife

and Biodiversity Protection Bill). It is globally recognized

as “Near-threatened” by the International Union for the

Conservation of Nature.

Critical activities that affect Piping Plover

Many anthropogenic activities can negatively affect Piping

Plover populations, including the following: dredging and

dredge spoil placement; construction and installation of

facilities; pipeline construction; road development; oil

spills and oil spill clean-up; construction of dwellings,

roads, marinas, and other structures and associated

impacts, such as staging of equipment and materials;

beach nourishment, stabilization and cleaning; certain

types and levels of recreational activities such as all-terrain

vehicular activity; predation and disturbance by

introduced animals; storm water and wastewater discharge.

It was noted by the visiting researchers that a high

tide roost known to support Piping Plover from last year

was empty of Piping Plovers this year, possibly due to

disturbance from high levels of kiteboarding very close

to the roost location. What is usually considered a low

impact activity may be significant in deterring roosting in

otherwise preferred areas.

What to do to enhance bird conservation

There is definitely a need to enhance habitats and bird

conservation in TCI. If we want this endangered and

threatened bird to continue to visit TCI’s shores, there

is a need to address the deterioration and destruction of

important bird habitats.

The coastal dune habitats need to be protected at all

times. Stay on boardwalks and existing trails when possible.

When walking with your pets on a beach or in other

natural areas, please keep your pet leashed to prevent

disturbing nesting, roosting, or foraging birds. It might

be better not to bring your dog(s) into bird nesting areas

at all because it is known that birds have much further

flight distances for dogs than humans. The mere presence

of even leashed dogs in nesting areas can cause

problems (allowing dogs to play at chasing birds is especially

problematic). The wrack lines should not be raked

up, manually or otherwise. The debris in the wrack lines

is one of the most important areas of a living beach’s

food web. Man-made trash should be removed but natural

debris makes the beach healthy.

Support plans to include important bird areas/

habitats in the Protected Areas System. Also, support

government or non-government initiatives to protect the

natural resources and wildlife of TCI.

If you want to take part in various activities that will

promote environmental sustainability, including bird conservation,

please contact DECR at environment@gov.tc. a

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 33

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

Little Water Cay in the Princess Alexandra Nature Reserve is known for its healthy Caicos Rock Iguana population.

In Safe Hands

Protected areas keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature.”

Story & Photos By Amy Avenant, DECR Environment Outreach Coordinator

The Turks & Caicos Islands boast a vast system of protected areas. So vast, that almost 45% of the country’s

biodiversity falls under some form of conservation status. Protected areas are very important to

both the biodiversity and economy of a country as they restrict human interaction with these areas as

well as conserve them, so that they can continue performing their vital ecological roles (and allow TCI

to remain “Beautiful by Nature.”)

34 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

The Turks & Caicos Islands have a total of 10 National

Parks, 12 Nature Reserves, 4 Sanctuaries, and 7 Areas

of Historical Interest. Princess Alexandra National Park,

which encompasses world-famous Grace Bay Beach, is

probably the country’s most well-known protected area.

National Parks are areas that have been set aside

for ecosystem and biological conservation, but permit

public recreation, although not without very important

etiquette, rules and regulations! Nature Reserves are

designated for conservation, however activities enjoyed

in these areas are restricted to low levels of recreation

such as camping, fishing and sailing. Sanctuaries enjoy

a far more strict set of rules, as they were established

primarily for the purpose of protection of the natural

ecology, protecting a particular terrestrial and/or marine

organism, as well as limiting the disturbance of the area

by humans.

To ensure that you interact with nature in an appropriate

way, here are some rules and etiquette:

• DO remove all your trash including cigarette butts. Be

mindful of the wind blowing trash into the sea.

• DO stay on the walkways to avoid walking on sand

dunes and watch out for iguana burrows on the cays.

• DO NOT feed wildlife including fish, birds, and reptiles.

• DO use biodegradable suntan lotion whenever possible

and allow time for all lotions to soak into the skin before

going into the ocean. Suntan lotion is toxic to the reefs.

• DO NOT touch, stand on or kick the coral; it is a living

animal and you will harm it.

• AVOID kicking sand with your fins when snorkelling so

that fine particles do not smother and choke living coral.

• A permit issued by the DECR is required for any bonfire

or social function on the beach.

• IT IS ILLEGAL to remove corals, sand, shells and wildlife,

whether dead or alive, from the Protected Areas.

• Anyone who wants to export more than three Queen

Conch shells must apply for a CITES (Convention on

International Trade in Endangered Species) export permit

through the DECR.

• For your safety, please swim within the “swim zone”

(within 300 feet of shore).

• IT IS ILLEGAL to fish in protected areas such as National

Parks and Nature Reserves. This includes “catch and

release” fishing or hunting for conch and lobsters.

• For fishing licenses, please apply through the DECR.

• Use of jet skis, hovercraft and water skis are permitted

only in demarcated ski zones.

• Visiting a Sanctuary is only allowed with written permission

from the Director of the DECR.

• Please report to the DECR if you witness your boat captain

anchoring on coral reefs or sea grass beds.

• Please make sure your “fresh conch salad” does not

come from the National Park!

List of TCI Protected Areas

National Parks:

• Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea National Park,

South Caicos

• Chalk Sound National Park, Providenciales

• Columbus Landfall Marine National Park, Grand Turk

• Conch Bar Caves National Park, Middle Caicos

• East Bay Islands National Park, North Caicos

• Fort George Land and Sea National Park

• Grand Turk Cays Land and Sea National Park:

Gibbs, Penniston and Martin Alonza Pinzon Cays

• North West Point Marine National Park, Providenciales

• Princess Alexandra National Park, Providenciales

• South Creek National Park, Grand Turk

• West Caicos Marine National Park

Nature Reserves:

• Admiral Cockburn Nature Reserve, Long Cay,

Six Hill Cays, Middleton Cay

• Bell Sound Nature Reserve, South Caicos

• Cottage Pond Nature Reserve, North Caicos

• Dick Hill Creek and Bellefield Landing Pond Nature

Reserve, North Caicos

• Lake Catherine Nature Reserve, West Caicos

• North, Middle and East Caicos Nature Reserve

(International Ramsar Site)

• North West Point Pond Nature Reserve, Providenciales

• Pigeon Pond and Frenchman’s Creek Nature Reserve,


• Princess Alexandra Nature Reserve, Providenciales,

Little Water, Mangrove and Donna Cays

• Pumpkin Bluff Pond Nature Reserve, North Caicos

• Vine Point (Man O’War Bush) and Ocean Hole Nature

Reserve, Middle Caicos


• Big Sand Cay Sanctuary;

• French, Bush and Seal Cays Sanctuary

• Long Cay Sanctuary

• Three Mary Cays Sanctuary a

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 35

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

An assortment of plants grown in RBG Kew’s Tropical Nursery from TCI seed includes, clockwise from left: Bahama love-grass Eragrostis

bahamensis; two Brace’s broom Evolvulus bracei (both Lucayan Archipelago endemics); and two dwarf morning glories Evolvulus alsinoides

all demonstrate lush growth and larger size in the less harsh conditions.

Two Kews

TCI’s native plants are a long way from home.

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist

It is a plant fanatic’s dream—away from the exhibition greenhouses and behind the public barriers, the

walk through the glass-walled corridor of the Tropical Plant Nursery at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

in London passes by huge glasshouse rooms keyed to the climate of the thousands of plants they hold.

Several rooms each of orchids and ferns, a gigantic collection of Aroids, succulents and cacti, aquatic

plants, and countless conservation projects are tidy but full.

36 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

Far more densely packed than exhibition gardens can

be, this area is Kew Gardens’ filing cabinet, an off-season

warehouse, a horticultural hoard. Tropical plants

from the farthest reaches of the world are held here.

Some represent nearly the entire population of their species—indeed,

some plants have been saved from wild

extinction by their presence here. All of them are here

for conservation, research, or display in RBG Kew’s opento-the-public

glasshouses, like the incomparable Princess

of Wales Conservatory (P.O.W.), the antique Palm House,

or the majestic Temperate Glasshouse.

But here in the humble, flat Tropical Nursery, plants

don’t sit in the spotlight of the public displays with largeprint

nameplates and ample elbow room. Here they lurk in

mobs, their embossed-metal ID tags partially obscured by

the foliage of themselves and their neighbours, each hiding

their name as would any stranger in a crowd. It takes

time to introduce oneself to the collection, individually.

Some announce who they are to botanists by means of

character traits or reputation. A gigantic, blood-red spathe

flower without any leaves wafts out a putrid stench—Ugh,

that has to be an Amorphophallus, the botanist thinks.

Another odoriferous one with spidery tentacles, growing

from what looks like a sprouted onion stuck to a piece of

bark, makes its greeter recoil, the botanical brain scolding

curiosity: You know Bulbophyllum orchids can smell

like death in a sewer . . . why would you sniff it?

There are famous plants here: Giant Victoria amazonica

water lilies in plunge-pool vats, huge titan arums with

their single, purple-spotted umbrella-like leaf spreading a

metre wide, and Darwin’s orchid (the one with the exceptionally

long nectar tube which made Darwin correctly

surmise the later discovery of a preposterously longtongued

moth that pollinated it). The celebrity plants are

here, often out of hair and makeup, in between public

appearances, resting and recuperating for the next big

bloom event.

Other plants are not so celebrated. The anonymous

masses reach upward toward London’s less-than-tropical

light in a tangle of photosynthetic optimism, a jungle-crowd

organised on shelves and stands by family,

genus, and species, filed in rooms by ecosystem of origin,

awaiting the dedicated care of the horticulturists who

look after them. In one of these rooms, on a less-than-assuming

bench, grouped among other Caribbean plants,

sits the Turks & Caicos Islands collection. Several spe-

From top: In the Tropical Nursery, Bermudian colleague Alison

Copeland samples the horrific odour of an Amorphophallus lily.

TCI’s popular medicinal tree mauby Colubrina elliptica is shown by

the author, growing well in the Tropical Nursery.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 37

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

From left: An assortment of orchids rests in the Tropical Nursery. When they bloom, they may be moved into the public display glasshouses.

The snapdragon vine Maurandya anthrhinniflora growing in a pair of two-inch pots displays an unprecedented potential rarely realised in TCI.

cies, grown from seed tested for germination by Kew’s

Millennium Seed Bank, sit neatly spaced awaiting hopeful

inclusion in the limited space of the public glasshouses.

Not all will achieve this stardom—the competition is

fierce—but to their keepers, they are every bit as dear

even behind the scenes. Their siblings, which are still

seeds, are now stored for long-term conservation in the

Millennium Seed Bank’s deep underground freezers,

lying in wait to be used to save the species should some

catastrophe befall wild populations.

But they have other siblings as well. Seeds from most

conservation collections made in TCI are split before they

are shipped to the United Kingdom, and a small share

goes to the Native Plant Conservation Nursery at the

Government Agricultural Station in Kew, North Caicos.

There, they live in a ramshackle, breezy shade-house

rather than a coddling glasshouse. They are protected

from too much sun by shade-cloth, rather than being

exposed to the transparent glass roof of the Tropical

Nursery. They tend to grow a little more tough and compact,

while their London brethren relax into a looser,

tenderer growth habit.

Just like anyone who leaves their original home to

expand their experiences abroad, these plants change

and develop new potential when grown in the Tropical

Nursery. One, a spindly winder called snapdragon vine

Maurandya antirhinniflora I remember from my youth on

the roadsides of Cork Tree in Grand Turk, creeps thinly

through thorny Acacia trees, flowering sparingly. Its baby

blue flowers, looking like frilly little cornucopias, and

sharply triangular leaves make it look like it would be a

real winner in the garden if only it grew with a little more

gusto. Seeing it growing in the Tropical Nursery verified

that—even when bound in tiny pots, the lush foliage and

abundant flowers, vines mounded upon themselves, made

me ask why the plant wasn’t already on public display.

“This looks a lot better than that junky plastic-looking

Hoya they’ve got festooning every ledge in the P.O.W.,” I

said to my colleague there, with an upturned palm and a

single raised eyebrow. In the relatively cool, humid, dim

conditions of the Tropical Nursery (compared to the full

sun, salty drought, and dusty tradewinds of Grand Turk)

the plant can afford to relax and put on a little more


Similarly, I recall when the San Diego Zoo’s horticulture

team grew out seeds found in wild Turks & Caicos

rock iguana droppings for identification for a diet study,

and some of the mystery seeds from Big Ambergris Cay

turned out to be the National Flower, Turks & Caicos

heather Limonium bahamense. But after six months of

growing in the upper 70s, humid, sunny world of southern

California’s Mediterranean climate the heather,

normally a stiff, tough, upright scrub-brush of a plant

just a hand-length high, had changed. It had grown so

leggy and lax that it had to be planted in a hanging basket;

its succulent stems dangled scandently, heavy under

their own weight and turning up at the tips just enough

to show some I-just-woke-up flowers, spread out along

the stem. It didn’t look like a plant that had given up, it

just looked like a plant so spoiled rotten from its origin

in the hypersaline salt marshes of the Turks Islands that

had become as cheerily apathetic as a garden petunia.

38 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources

If some plants reach a higher potential in London’s

glasshouses, others struggle. In my July 2015 visit to

RBG Kew’s Tropical Nursery, I came upon a few trays of

assorted Encyclia orchids grown from seed collected in

2011 and grown in RBG Kew’s Micropropagation Unit

(See “Bragging Rights,” Times of the Islands Summer

2013) being repotted in the corridor by one of RBG Kew’s

Horticultural Diploma Course students. The orchids

looked barely bigger than they were on my 2013 visit,

and there were far fewer of them. According to the orchid

keeper, they were experiencing a lot of problems with

rot in this collection. No wonder, as they were being held

with the rest of the Encyclia orchids in one of the wet

tropics orchid rooms, which their other Caribbean and

South American relatives appreciate. But bombarded with

sprayed irrigation and time-managed misting, our TCI

orchids’ substrate couldn’t dry out. While some plants

enjoy being spoiled, dry tropics orchids detest it. (This is

why many people find orchids so hard to keep alive—they

coddle them to death.)

My colleague and I discussed the need for an

intervention, and the horticulturists asked for help in

understanding the plants’ natural habitat. While the RBG

Kew horticulturists do go into the field on occasion, they

don’t go everywhere their charges naturally grow, and so

can’t be familiar with the exact wild conditions of every

single one of their thousands of plants. We put together

photos of the wild habitats of the four species they were

growing—the dry, rocky shrubland of the tall orchid

Encyclia altissima; the ridge-top limestone outcropping

windswept locale of the rufous orchid Encyclia rufa;

the salty leeward coastal coppice of the Inagua orchid

Encyclia inaguensis, and the sand-blasted low windward

dune scrub of the endemic Caicos orchid Encyclia caicensis.

The decision was taken to move the plantlets into

a different room for awhile, giving them brighter light,

warmer temperatures, more air movement, and far less

humidity and water.

The mature orchids may well be rotated into the

Princess of Wales Conservatory’s dry tropics orchid

room when they bloom, as is the routine. Blooming potted

orchids are shifted into glass display cases in the

orchid rooms, then traded back to the Tropical Nursery

for replacements when their blooms acquiesce. They will

get their chance at a spot in stardom for their blooming


B Naqqi Manco (TCI) and Richard Taylor (RBG Kew) hold trays of

Encyclia orchid seedlings grown from seed collected in North and

Middle Caicos in 2001.

Other plants from Turks & Caicos are waiting in line

for the completion of the Temperate House refurbishment.

Lots of specimens throughout the Tropical Nursery

are up for this audition. Space is limited; selection will

be cut-throat. Only the best-looking, most botanically

representative plants will be selected. Our colleagues in

the United Kingdom Overseas Territories Programme at

RBG Kew are working hard to nudge our plants, as well

as those from other UKOTs, to the front of the display.

Exhibiting the plants brings awareness to the conservation

issues in the Territories, and to the Territories

themselves, in an outside world where we are largely forgotten.

I anxiously await the day I can tell homesick Turks

& Caicos Islander students in London universities that

they can visit a touch of home in the glasshouses at Kew

Gardens. Until then our plants, botanical ambassadors to

the political centre of the Kingdom, lurk in the masses,

unaware of the dry, salty, bright conditions from whence

they came. Plant communication is a new and hotly

debated topic of study, but I wonder what each species

would write home to their families about their new lives

abroad. a

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 39



Opposite page: Manny Missick surveys one of the fields at his Green Acre Farm in Bottle Creek, North Caicos. He concentrates on the quality

and volume that enables him to supply the IGA grocery store on Providenciales with okra, papaya, peppers and other fruits and vegetables.

Above: Franky Adames plants seedlings at Island Farms in Kew Town, Providenciales, where produce, eggs and meat are raised.

A Tough Row to Hoe

Farming in the Turks & Caicos Islands.

By Jody Rathgeb


Sometimes a cliché is the most concise way to express a truth. This is certainly the case when it comes

to farming in the Turks & Caicos Islands: It’s a tough row to hoe!

The saying has always been true for these rocky, mostly dry islands. In 1993, former Minister of

Health and Agriculture Nicky Turner wrote in this magazine, “For nearly 200 years the women and men

of these islands have wrenched food from the clasp of the inhospitable soil under conditions which would

make a lesser people despair.” Turner has now joined the small group of TCI farmers who continue that

“wrenching” and hope to bring the Islands into a future of self-sustaining agriculture.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 41

Four operations in particular work on the cusp of commercial

agriculture. In addition to Turner’s Island Farms

near Kew Town on Providenciales, Courtney Missick continues

to grow fruits, vegetables and landscape plants in

Kew on North Caicos; at Green Acres Farm in Bottle Creek,

North Caicos, Manny Missick employs 10 people on a

large spread that was formerly a sisal farm; and Island

Fresh Produce represents a full-out commercial operation

in hydroponic farming off South Dock Road in Provo.

The focus at each farm is different. Courtney Missick

has in the past emphasized landscape farming, then pigs,

then an organic chickens and vegetables expansion, but

has more recently settled on his chickens, fruits and vegetables.

“My calling is to feed and represent,” he says,

referring also to his politics-oriented talk show on local

television station PTV-8 every Tuesday night and inde-


pendent candidacy in the December 2016 TCI elections.

Although he has been farming since he was young, he

says most agriculture in the TCI is still primarily subsistence

farming. “What’s keeping me alive is supplying IGA

[supermarket on Provo]” with hot peppers, callaloo, okra

and fruits. He believes that it is time for the Islands to

move to the next level, which is commercial farming.

On the other end of North Caicos, Manny Missick has

for eight years concentrated on quality and consistency in

organic gardening to supply the Graceway IGA on Provo

with okra, bananas, peppers and other fruits and vegetables.

The 83-year-old started Green Acres Farm after

a full career in the Bahamas and TCI government work,

commenting, “This is taking it easy. There’s nothing

I love more than planting and seeing what comes up.”

His hard work is focused on providing a viable business

for his grandsons and expanding the operations with

more cleared land, an irrigation pond and expansion into

medicinal plants.

At Island Fresh Produce, run by Ian Harrison and his

partner, Jan Brown, hydroponic farming presents a different

set of challenges. Because the plants are grown

in a medium other than soil (fertilized water, with the

plants supported by cord when young and granite gravel

when older), success depends on water quality and more

infrastructure. Looking more like a small factory than a

traditional farm, Island Fresh has its own reverse-osmosis

plant for converting seawater, tanks that add up to 17 fertilizers

in the proper proportions for each type of plant,

and screened structure with concrete troughs to hold the

plants. Yet Harrison notes that, as in traditional farming,

future success depends on dealing with the climate,

insects and the costs of a labour-intensive business.

From top: Longtime farmer Courtney Missick grows fruits, vegetables

and landscape plants in Kew, North Caicos.

Ian Harrison uses a small hydroponics set-up at his Provo home for

personal and experimental use for his larger operation.

Liz and Nicky Turner see their small farm near Kew Town in

Providenciales as a lifestyle decision.



42 www.timespub.tc

Nicky Turner also has his eye on the future, in a

slightly different way. One of the reasons he and his wife,

Liz, started Island Farms was to give their sons a life that

is connected with the land. “It’s primarily quality of life,”

he says. The farm is a second business for him; his primary

business, Blue Loos septic services, is still paying

the bills for now. Yet the farm is ambitious. With the help

of Frankie Adames, a Dominican national who looks after

the daily work, and contract labourers, the Turners have

added animal husbandry to their operation. They have

chickens, pigs, goats, rabbits and ducks, and at the end

of 2016 were in the process of building a “proper piggery”

with a breeding area and slaughterhouse.

Both Missicks had piggeries in the past, but both

have discontinued those operations, because feeding is

costly and marketing difficult. Turner shares their woes—

he knows he can’t begin to sell his pigs until he can get

Department of Agriculture certification—but is optimistic.

Yet such problems are only the beginning of the problems

that face the TCI farmer. For any farm to be viable

as a business, costs must be controlled and there must

be enough volume and demand to make a profit. The

farmers find that growing plants and animals is difficult

but not impossible; what’s needed is better education

and government support.

Eggs come from chickens, not cartons

It has been so long that Islanders have been heading to

the grocery stores for imported foods, many seem to

have forgotten the importance of agriculture in giving

a nation self-sufficiency. Manny Missick points out that

during World War II, when food imports to the Islands

were halted, the farms of North and Middle Caicos were

able to feed the nation. Would the same be true today?

Dependency on foreign foods has led to consumers who

prefer pretty but tasteless tomatoes over fresh, local produce

that might not look as attractive.

Courtney Missick comments that some of the health

issues that plague the country today can be traced to a

reliance on processed foods, and says he believes that

as people come to understand the value of organic, local

food the status of agriculture will grow. “If you want to

live, you have to change your diet,” he warns.

Turner adds that good food—that is, food that is

good for you because it doesn’t come from chemically-enhanced

fields or factory farms—comes at a price.

For example, it takes longer for an organically-raised

chicken to reach market size, which is the reason it costs

more than one held in inhumane conditions and fattened

Chickens, goats and pigs are some of the animals raised for food on

Turks & Caicos farms.


Times of the Islands Spring 2017 43



Left: The Turners turned Kew Town property Nicky had owned for 20 years into a farm to provide produce, eggs and meat. As La Finca

Marketing, Blue Loos_Layout they sell 1 to 2/9/16 the Quality 2:47 PM Supermarket Page 1 and Sunny Foods stores on Providenciales.

Right: At Island Fresh Produce’s commercial operation off South Dock Road, a “field” of mint is ready to become mojitos for tourists.

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quickly on a hormone-laced diet. He and Liz, he says, can

break even by selling their eggs at Provo supermarkets

for $5 a dozen. “At $5.50, we would make a profit,” but

only those who understand the difference between a truly

fresh egg and a weeks-old one from a Florida farm would

pay that price.

Harrison agrees that the economics of farming are

little understood. “Any business in horticulture or agriculture

is capital-intensive, labour-intensive, and you get

hammered on tariffs,” he says. “The cost of getting things

going is unbelievable, and the returns are small.”

The farmers agree, too, that education about agriculture

should extend to the Islands’ young people, since

they are both future consumers and future farmers. In the

United States, older people often lament that children are

no longer given field trips to farms and dairies, so they

don’t know where food comes from. The same is true in

the Turks & Caicos. Also, getting young people interested

in agriculture as a career starts with knowledge of where

food comes from. “It’s hard to sell agriculture to young

people,” says Courtney Missick. “How can you learn to

play a keyboard if you never even saw one? We need to

show them the reality of growing food.” He advocates

technical schools and tutorial farms.

44 www.timespub.tc

Government help

Occasionally, even members of government need to be

taught those lessons. Turner recalls a moment in the past

when he commented that the TCI could run out of food.

“[The minister] said, ‘Well, we’d just go buy more at the

store.’” As much as the farmers have learned and know

about soil enhancement, irrigation, pest control and

labour requirements, their knowledge is easily thwarted

by policies based on “business as usual,” i.e., importing

food. What do they believe government can do to help?


Manny Missick looks around his North Caicos farm

and sees plenty of private land, prime farming land, lying

fallow. He says a smart government would “either tax it or

use it.” The government farm in Kew is just a baby step,

in his opinion. Speaking prior to the December elections,

he commented, “If they don’t get someone involved in

farming, they would be the biggest fool ever. We know

where the good farmland is and what the water table is.

Give a peppercorn lease and get some people involved in

serious farming.”

Government investment can help, notes Courtney

Missick. “We need new farmers, technical people, specialists,”

he says. “In order to move to a commercial scale,

you need serious capital investment. You need equipment,

and you need whatever it takes to get in foreign

labour.” He has tried the private-partner route; in 2014 he

began Isaac’s Organic Farms along the Kew-Whitby road

as a collaboration with Beaches Resort and a Canadian

investor, but the commitments fell off and he pulled back

to his original Kew operation. Without government subsidies,

he says, farms will fail.

Turner gets even more specific, ticking off a farming

“wish list” from the government: “Free work permits. No

duty on agricultural imports. A break on electric rates.”

These moves, all short of direct subsidies, could truly

jump-start the agricultural industry.

And why not consider subsidy? Harrison points out

that the food TCI imports comes from countries that have

invested in agriculture. “Every other nation gets its agriculture

subsidized,” he states.

To be fair, Harrison adds, some in government understand

the problems and are doing what they can. He

praises Wilhelmina Kissoonsingh, the current director of

agriculture, for being “plugged in” and for understanding

that agriculture here is no longer “six hens in someone’s


Farming on these Islands has never been easy, but

with new knowledge and rising interest in the quality of

From top: Frankie Adames and Louines Logis are vital to keeping the

Turners’ farm running, especially as they have branched out to animal


the foods we eat, it has become better. Yet the row to

the next level is still a hard one to hoe, dependent on

education and a more concerted desire for the success of

commercial, self-sustaining agriculture. The farmers want

to get to work. a


Times of the Islands Spring 2017 45

Pre-Summer Looks from

Emerald Islands

The official resortwear of the Turks & Caicos Islands.

Fashion By Jeritt Williams

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 47

Male models: Abdel Dormeus

and Selvano Gardiner

Female model: Mitiana Simon

Make-up: Latoya Kitten

Photographer: Ora Hasenfratz

Assistant: Lejla Gerber

Location: Turks & Caicos

Junkanoo Museum,

Downtown Providenciales

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 49

island hopping

Opposite page: This secluded basin just off Little Ambergris Cay encircles the author’s 34-foot catamaran in warm emerald-green waters.

Above: Valentine’s Day on Little Ambergris Cay was the romantic setting for a proposal of marriage.

Valentine’s Day Surprise

A special “proposal” on Little Ambergris Cay.

Story & Photos By Katie Gutteridge

Somehow, the Turks & Caicos Islands have managed to stay quiet in the world of sailing. Cruisers are

either fixated on staying in the Bahamas or are racing ahead to get to the Virgin Islands. We always knew,

when we bought a sailboat, it would have to be a catamaran. The reason? It would be a perfect fit for the

waters right here.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 51

All winter we’ve explored. We’ve seen the flamingos

in South Caicos, snorkelled with a whale and its

calf in Salt Cay, meandered along Duke Street in Grand

Turk. Each island has had its own unique characteristics

and given us incredible experiences, which we

don’t believe we would have found elsewhere in the


But in February 2016, I think we found the icing on

the cake. It is Little Ambergris Cay, where the shallow

banks stretch to the horizon and water a bright duckegg

blue is specked with stingrays. It is several miles

to the nearest island—Big Ambergris Cay, where only

non-human residents live.

We managed to sneak into a bay so secluded it

felt as though the last people to have visited could

well have been pirates. Its narrow entrance passage

is around 3 feet deep, but once inside, a basin perfectly

fit for our 34-foot catamaran encircles us in 10

foot depths of warm emerald-green waters. The grassy

floor below attracts an array of inquisitive creatures,

including a nurse shark who saunters past but doesn’t

stay too long. Later, a dozen squid line up in a perfect

row, facing the boat. They swim in perfect symmetry

towards and away from our vessel, getting the courage

each time to edge a little closer, wondering what on

earth has arrived on their patch of the sea.

At sunset, bonefish tails skim the surface over by

the mangroves and at sunrise a hummingbird hovers

outside our door, attracted by the shimmering gold

and pink fishing lures left hanging to dry in the sun by

the winch-handle holder.

The beach is just as you’d expect for a deserted

island—as white as pearls, as soft as icing powder.

Despite being the epitome of a place to relax, I’m

seduced into exploring its every inch. A short 10 minute

walk reveals 21 pristine sand dollars—no wonder

the sand is so white. I stop collecting them, as there

are too many to carry.

Having already spent two weeks away from land

while exploring the other islands, we’re running short

of everything. Water, food and gas are worryingly low.

But we’re not ready to leave this paradise we’ve only

just discovered. We ration more than ever before, even

turning off our fridge to conserve the gas only for

cooking. Luckily, we have a freezer that runs on 12

volts, so the little food left goes straight in there.

One afternoon we head out several miles to a shipwreck

to try bottom-fishing for our dinner. It starts

slow, the only action is the seagulls that keep fleeing

their perches on the rusty wreck every time the osprey

circles above. As they all settle down we get our first

bite. Half an hour later and we’re heading back to the

bay with a healthy helping of yellowtail snapper, triggerfish

and a grouper. We plan to cook the snapper

that night on a beach bonfire.

As we collected the wood for that evening’s fire I

realise that it’s Valentine’s Day. “This will be the most

romantic Valentine’s Day I’ve ever had,” I think as I

drag a large branch across the beach to a spot right

on the tip of the sandbar; a perfect sunset viewpoint

with our boat as the foreground. We head back to the

boat, grab some sparkling wine we’d saved for a special

occasion and head back out on the dinghy.

With the fire mimicking the orangey-red of the setting

sun, my partner Andy hugs his arms around my

waist as he turns me toward him, and I start to feel an

unusual energy about this moment. “There’s only one

thing left to say . . . will you marry me?” he asks nervously

as he bends down on one knee. “Of course I’ll

marry you!” I say as a tear rolls down my cheek and I

try to recover from the shock. We hug each other tight

and kiss in celebration.

“I was going to buy you a ring but I spent the money

on two new engines instead,” he jokes as I reach to

top-up our fizz. (I had been wondering about the ring!)

But in typical Andy style, he’d been trying to fashion

me a ring out of a conch shell, which unfortunately

had proven far too tricky to handle. All of a sudden

the flight back home to England seemed much more

appealing, now that we’d be making an unexpected

stop in New York for a ring along the way! a

Katie Gutteridge is a freelance writer who has been visiting

TCI for almost a decade. Unfortunately, she won’t

be getting married in Turks & Caicos, as she’s planning

a large wedding party at home with friends and family.

For more information on her business, Creative Copy

Kate, visit creativecopykate.weebly.com.

52 www.timespub.tc





Monday - Friday: 9am - 4pm

Saturday: 9am - 2.30pm

Closed: Sundays

Adults $12.00

Children $10.00

Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales

Phone: (649) 946-5330


Opposite page: Based at Leeward-Going-Through, Blue Haven Marina has as its backdrop Mangrove Cay, part of the Princess Alexandra Nature

Reserve, and the sparkling waters of the sea.

Above: For much of the year from November to May, the popular marina is nearly full to capacity.

A Warm Welcome

Blue Haven Marina attracts the international yachting crowd.

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy Blue Haven Marina

The scene is quite like a James Bond movie—sleek, luxurious, behemoth vessels moored to massive

floating docks. One mega-yacht sports a helicopter pad and car; another an on-deck pool and submarine.

Crew attend to the boats with the care given to a queen. Yet rather than a stark cityscape, these pampered

leviathans bob in a backdrop of sky-blue, verdant green and a sparkling turquoise blue sea. Their current

home is Blue Haven Marina, the Turks & Caicos Islands’ premier international yachting anchorage.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 55

Blue Haven Marina is a hub of activity for boats large

and small. Located on Providenciales’ northeastern edge

at the Leeward-Going-Through passage, the marina currently

includes 100 slips (both side and stern-to) with the

capacity to berth yachts up to 220 feet in length and a

draft of 9 feet.

I visited the marina in mid-January, a busy time for

General Manager Adam Foster. The facility was close to

100% occupancy, which is the case for much of the year

from November through May. Although it was clear that

Adam and Operations Manager Portia Mogal had a lot of

other things to attend to, they graciously took the time to

answer this landlubber’s many questions.

Opened on April 2, 2013, Blue Haven Marina has

been attracting the international yachting crowd from

inception. This includes boats such as a 377' superyacht

carrying 50 crew, 18 guests and its own gym, spa and

pool! Besides offering a private entrance and excellent

security (important to boats valued as much as $80 million

and often owned by celebrities), Blue Haven Marina

staff has the “right stuff” to cater to an upscale clientele.

According to Adam, a primary attraction is the same

thing that land-based tourists love: the TCI’s unmatched

combination of clean, clear waters, a pristine reef system,

superb scuba diving and snorkeling, and private

ivory sand beaches. As well, he adds, “The boaters love

to explore the outer islands and cays, and we provide a

variety of itineraries to use as a guide. Our location is

ideal for adventure, while having amenities and services


Arriving at this official port-of-entry is made easy

by TCI Customs and Immigrations officers based at

Blue Haven Marina, who work hard to make visitors feel

welcome while facilitating the country’s laws and regulations.

For boats that are too big to enter the channel, Blue

Haven provides a yacht concierge service to help them

clear customs, re-provision and access any needs these

vessel require.

Marina facilities include a state-of-the-art, high-speed

fuel system, water, power up to 480v, black and grey

water pump-out, cable TV, free WiFi, security, laundry

services, provisioning services, showers and toilets, Salt

Bar and Grill with sports screen, a business center, and

outdoor activities including beach volleyball, a horseshoe

pit and more.

All of the amenities of the Blue Haven Resort are

available for boat owners, guests and crew. (See page

58/59.) This includes a 51 room resort, 24-hour gym,

private beach complete with hammocks swaying among

palm trees and a fun water trampoline, infinity edge pool,

Elevate Day Spa, Sandpiper Kid’s Club, meeting space,

and Market, a grocery store and café. There are also two

restaurants on-site, with a complimentary shuttle that

allows boaters to dine at sister properties, Alexandra

Resort and Beach House.

Once boats are anchored, owners and crew are basically

“on vacation,” with the time and desire to enjoy

watersports, fishing, golf, touring, restaurants, nightlife

and attractions—there is definitely an impact on the

local economy. Blue Haven Resort works directly with

supermarkets to source and supply yacht provisions and

the needs of their chefs, with $30,000 grocery bills not

uncommon. They also work with the best of local businesses,

including taxi drivers, car rental companies, tour

operators and the like to encourage exploration beyond

the dock. Portia adds, “We constantly monitor our service

providers to ensure they maintain high standards.” All

visitors receive an arrival and information guide that lists

the best the country has to offer.

In the case where boat repairs are necessary, the

marina is proud to refer them to Caribbean Marine &

Diesel, a local service they say is “world class.”

When the mega-yachts leave in late spring, they are

replaced by fishing vessels on the hunt for billfish and

other game fish from May to August. The slower months

of September and October gives marina staff time to

repair, replace, renovate and repaint. There is also a

smaller docking area behind the resort which is fully utilized

by smaller local charter and pleasure boats.

Blue Haven Marina is a member of Island Global

Yachting (IGY), the world’s leading luxury marina and

yachting lifestyle development and operations company,

with a network encompassing fifteen prime destinations

in seven countries. Blue Haven Marina has also been

awarded the Five Gold Anchor Status (the highest rating)

by the Yacht Harbour Association (TYHA), along with the

Clean Marina Award. Portia is especially proud of this

accolade, “We are very strict about how boaters treat

our pristine waters. For instance, all fuel and oil must be

stored in the boats to avoid spills, all used oil must be

taken away, not disposed of in TCI, we offer in-slip sewage

pump-out to minimize spillage and vessels must be

cleaned with environmentally sound products.”

This is especially important because Blue Haven

Marina backs up against the Princess Alexandra Nature

Reserve. This 450 acre protected land area encompasses

nearby Little Water Cay (a.k.a. “Iguana Island”), Mangrove

Cay, and Donna Cay. Much of the northern shore of

56 www.timespub.tc

Blue Haven Marina is a Five Gold Anchor Status marina, and has also been awarded the Clean Marina Award.

Providenciales is part of the Princess Alexandra Land and

Sea National Park. Included in this protected area is Grace

Bay Beach, The Bight Beach, The Bight Reef, Leeward

Beach, Smith’s Reef, and a large portion of the northern

barrier reef of Providenciales.

In an effort to get people off the boats and into the

community, IGY Marinas launched the “Inspire Giving

through You” project in 2016. In late February 2017, Blue

Haven Marina will be teaming up with the “Extraordinary

Minds Ashley’s Learning Center,” a school that caters to

children with learning disabilities and who cannot attend

TCI’s primary schools. Volunteers will construct an outdoor

play area for the children, along with a surrounding

fence to ensure their safety. The February 2016 community

outreach project assisted the Provo Children’s Home

with basic upgrades of the facility, cleaning of interior

and exterior areas, and donations of much-needed supplies.

Both events were well-attended and the children’s

home continues to reap donations from marina visitors.

As well, the marina regularly invites children to visit the

property and offers summer jobs. Blue Haven also sponsors

three boats and six children’s fees to participate in

the beloved Provo Sailing Club.




Lures and Live Bait

Marine Hardware & Gear

Fishing Gear & Supplies

Marine Paints & Varnish

Marine Batteries

Sebago Docksiders

& Sperry Topsiders Shoes




PHONE: 649-946-4411

FAX: 649-946-4945

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 57

Guests to Blue Haven Marina can relax around the canalside infinity


Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide

daily breakfast to government school students –

starting with the primary schools in North Caicos,

Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.

We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide

breakfast to one child for a whole school year.

If you would like to donate or learn more please

email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com

or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com

Some of the visiting

yachts also use the Blue

Haven Resort facilities to

host wedding or birthday

parties, often utilizing

local caterers, florists,

DJs and party planners.

The marina sponsors two

major fishing tournaments

in the TCI: The Wine Cellar

Golf & Fishing Tournament

held every March and the

Caicos Classic IGFA Billfish

Release Tournament in


Adam and Portia have

been working around

the globe among the

small, close-knit world

of luxury yachters for a

combined total of nearly

30 years. They have built

close relationships with

many international boat management companies, people

responsible for planning, provisioning, running and

maintaining the mega-boats for their owners. Through

the pair’s contacts and presence at major boat shows and

conferences in the US and Caribbean, they are well positioned

to encourage trips to the Turks & Caicos Islands.

In fact, Blue Haven Marina was the only TCI group

to participate in the prestigious Monaco Boat Show in

September 2016. Adam and Portia were very successful

in attracting large vessels to visit the marina and putting

TCI on the world map as a destination for the yachting

industry. Besides being invited to an agency briefing with

20 influential boat captains, while in Europe Adam and

Portia visited marinas in France and Italy to raise awareness

about TCI for vessels making the annual pilgrimage

across the Atlantic and through the Caribbean.

The TCI, they say, is an easy sell. “Geographically it’s

perfectly positioned as a main hub between Ft. Lauderdale

and the Virgin Islands.” And with Blue Haven Marina’s

motto of “aiming to go above and beyond expectations,”

it seems that yachters have good reason to add the destination

to their cruising itinerary. a

For more information, visit www.bluehaventci.com or

contact Adam Foster at afoster@bluehaventci.com or call

649 946 9910.

58 www.timespub.tc

Blue Haven Resort

By Kathryn Brown, Director, ERA Coralie Properties

The first thing that catches your eye when approaching

Blue Haven Resort are its colors; you can’t help

but smile as the bright hues seem to invite you to

come inside. If you are arriving by sea, the contrast

between the turquoise water, white sand and

Caribbean-toned building is stunning. If you arrive

by vehicle, a step into the reception area reveals the

same effect . . . you have just arrived and you want

to stay forever.



Director ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.

Kathryn has 20 years successful

experience in Caribbean Real

Estate; she also benefits from

knowledge of the Turks and

Caicos Real Estate Association,

having been a founding member

and serving as President for five


MLS 1600582

MLS 1500381

From a real estate point of view the property does

not need constant monologue—it speaks for itself.

Blue Haven sits on a 10 acre site with approximately

twr ad1.6_Layout 1 2/16/17 8:13 AM Page 1

300 feet (79 meters) of beach frontage and a total

of 660 feet (200 meters) of Leeward Going Through

water frontage.

There are 51 units, including 3 penthouse suites,

one of which is currently on the market. The units

are well appointed and include pedestal-style kingsize

beds in each master bedroom. The kitchens are

sleek and modern with island counters with stools,

Thermadore cooktops, Sub Zero refrigerators, Della

Casa self-closing cabinets and Bausch washers and

dryers. The living areas are furnished in classic blues

and whites contrasted with dark wood—inviting and

comfortable. The exterior decks are designed for

relaxation and to take advantage of water views.

Blue Haven Resort offers premier rooms and one,

two and three bedroom suites, as well as the penthouses;

16 units are lock-outs. This option allows

three opportunities for vacation rental: a premier

room, a full one bedroom suite or a two-bedroom

suite. The units are spacious, starting at approximately

1,500 sq. ft. to over 5,000 sq. ft. for a

ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.

Tel: 649 231-2329

Email: krbrown@era.tc

Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com

Tradewinds Radio




Great music,

marine weather,

informative ads

Tel 431.7527 claire@tradewindsradio.com

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 59

Island Auto Rentals & Sales is

committed to adding value to your

tropical vacation experience

by delivering excellent service

along with secure and reliable

transportation that will take you

where you need to go.



Leeward Palms, Leeward, Providenciales

Telephone: (649) 246-0395 or 232-0933 or 946-2042

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com or


Web: islandautorentals.tc

Brigitte ad_Brigitte 2/16/17 8:22 AM Page 1

For Vehicle Rental in

Grand Turk call

232 0933 or 946 2042

Tangled Hair Salon

Open 6 days per week and by appointment on Sundays

for cutting, styling and so much more


without ammonia and with a pleasant fragrance.


smoothing service for hair like silk for up to 5 months.

YUKO non-formaldehyde permanent hairstraightening.

OLAPLEX the salon wonder-treatment that actually

rebuilds your hair from inside out.

BLOWDRY for $35 - straight/curly/beach

waves/messy-up-do. Add in a glass of Prosseco.

Call 431 4247 (431 HAIR)



penthouse unit. The resort’s guest services team is

fabulous; they take pride in offering superb service

and warm island hospitality.

Blue Haven Resort is located in the Leeward area

of Providenciales— private but not secluded, only

minutes away from restaurants, stores and othe

businesses on Grace Bay. However, if you choose to

remain on resort property all that you need is provided.

There are three restaurants on site: Salt Bar

and Grill, Fire and Ice and the café Market, a small

grocery store and gift shop.

For more outdoor enjoyment, the private beach

area in front of the resort has ample umbrella-shaded

seating, hammocks and sun beds as well as a free

form infinity pool with expansive deck area and a

water trampoline. All of your favorite watersports are

also available at the adjacent IGY Blue Haven Marina.

For those inclined to maintain their fitness and wellness

goals, there is a fully equipped, 24-hour fitness

center and Elevate Spa. Families enjoy the benefits of

Sandpiper Kid’s Club, offered free of charge to resort

guests and owners.

Thanks to Blue Haven’s affiliation with sister

properties Alexandra Resort and Beach House Turks

& Caicos, resort guests may take a free shuttle to

dine at both resorts, and to use the beach facilities

(by advance reservation) at Beach House.

At any given time, there are a few units for sale

at Blue Haven Resort. Price will depend on size, the

floor on which the unit is located and views. Ground

level floor will be lower-priced; as you move higher

in the building prices usually increase. (Of course it

also depends on square footage of the unit.) Sales of

units that have come on the market have been generally

quite close to list price or sold for list price. This

shows that the properties are being listed at market


Because the resort and individual units are both

well maintained, value will remain strong. As the real

estate market continues to improve with sales higher

than new listings, we expect some increase in value

of all properties.

Blue Haven Resort’s exclusive location makes it

special. The Leeward subdivision is largely residential—with

Blue Haven being a jewel in the crown,

there will be no other resort built in this area. Being

home to the world-class Blue Haven Marina adds the

finishing touch. a

60 www.timespub.tc


newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org

The late Sherlin Williams was an avid supporter of the Museum and one of the TCI’s most ardent local historians. This 2011 photo shows him

in front of one of the iconic backdrops in his at-home photo studio on James Street, where residents would come to have their picture taken.


Now He is Part of History

By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation

The first time I met Sherlin Williams was in the Museum Science Building’s workshop. He was just putting

the finishing touches on the 150 year-old clockwork mechanism that made the light turn in Grand Turk’s

lighthouse. I was amazed because it was an intricate piece of equipment for which no plans or instructions

were available. He had been working on it for months, and through observation and persistence

alone figured it out by himself. It made more sense later when I learned that in previous years he had a

business in the Bahamas repairing high-end cameras!

Sherlin didn’t just repair cameras, he was a pretty good photographer too! In 2010, he showed me

computer-manipulated artwork he was producing called “photocraphs,” each composed of dozens or

even hundreds of different images combined to tell a story.

Each time I made a visit to the Museum on Grand Turk Sherlin was there, always ready to explore

newly discovered archaeological sites, conduct research in the Museum’s library, investigate a mystery,

or get his hands dirty cleaning and conserving artifacts. Over the years he authored several articles for

the Astrolabe including, “Grand Turk’s Postcard Man,” and “The Time-Travelling Beach Comber.”

Mr. Sherlin McDonald Williams died on January 2, 2017. He was an avid supporter of the Museum, a

good friend, a native son of the TCI and one of its most ardent and active local historians—but he is not

lost to us. He is still here in the Museum. You can hear him in the words he wrote, see photos of him working

to conserve other people’s history, and admire the art he created, all preserved here in perpetuity. a

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 61

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum


Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson commanded a squadron that was defeated by the French on Fire Hill, Grand Turk, in 1783.

The French Connection

The ill-fated Coquette Expedition.

By John de Bry, Center for Historical Archaeology

They say histories are usually about wars and always written by the victorious. It is refreshing to be able to

look at a well-known conflict through the eyes of a participant on the losing side. Following a (very) minor

engagement on Grand Turk in 1783, during which the squadron he commanded was unable to defeat a

60-man French force dug in on Fire Hill, none other than Capt. Horatio Nelson concluded his dispatch with

“With such a force, and their strong situation, I did not think anything farther could be attempted.” But

there is another, far more informative and thrilling account written by the commander of the opposing

French naval force, Lt. Grasse-Brianson.

62 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

The following account was transcribed, interpreted

and translated by Dr. John de Bry of the Center for

Historical Archaeology in 1994 during a TCNMsponsored

search for old records pertaining to the

Turks & Caicos Islands in various French repositories.

The attempt on the part of France to take over the

Turks Islands in 1783 was largely a privateering endeavor

rather than an initiative emanating from Versailles. It is

easy to imagine the Sieur de Courrejeolles, mentioned

in the first paragraph of the account below, as a shady

character straight out of “Pirates of the Caribbean.”

Courrejeolles remains an enigmatic player. His role in the

invasion and capture of Grand Turk is surely understated

and deserves elaboration. Additional research has so far

failed to fully identify him. His name does not appear

on any official naval papers, which only confirms that he

was either a privateer or a pirate with a certain flair and

sophistication. After all, he was the one who managed

to sell the Turks Islands to the Prince and Princess of

Nassau-Siegen several years later, even though he had

absolutely no right to any property title on these islands!

Although the direct involvement of the Governor of Saint-

Domingue, Comte Robert d’Argout, is evidenced by the

commission he gave to the Sieur de Courrejeolles on 11

September 1778, it is equally clear that Versailles strongly

disapproved and condemned the actions of d’Argout and


Abstract of the expedition of the King’s corvette la

Coquette to the Turk Islands

Followed by details of its capture

Monsieur de Bellecombe, Governor-General of Saint-

Domingue (modern Haiti), assigned the corvette la

Coquette to the Turk islands expedition, along with two

vessels of the colony, the Dauphin and Cornwallis. I [naval

officer Grasse Brianson, in my capacity as acting captain

and expedition leader] immediately endeavored to load

all the necessary material, everything being ready on 8

February. Four detachments from different infantry regiments

came aboard, as well as Monsieur de Courrejolles,

Engineer of the Colony, who would take control of these

Islands away from the English.

The bay of Cap-Français [modern Cape Haitian] was

blockaded by the English. But on the morning of the 9th,

seeing the fleet somewhat distant, I took advantage of this

situation to set sail with the vessels under my command,

closely hugging the coast. We anchored at Port -Français,

two leagues to the West to have the advantage of leaving

during the night, which was done, thus allowing us to get

under way without being seen.

We sighted the Turk islands on the morning of the

12th, but the hour at which we arrived exposed us to

the danger of being spotted from a long distance, so in

order to avoid this inconvenience, I anchored at the Petite

Saline [Salt Cay], one of the islands which is uninhabited,

from which, without being seen, it was easy to observe if

any vessels were at the Grande Saline [Grand Turk]. I only

saw fishing boats. During the night I sent the brigantine

Cornwallis to cruise to the North in order to be within

range of intercepting any isolated vessel which might

report [to the enemy] our presence. We also wanted to

take the commanding English officer by surprise; to this

effect, Monsieur de Courrejolles left during the night

aboard rowboats and long boats, and landed with part

of the troops on the South point, while I arrived in daylight

in front of the dwellings. As soon as I was anchored,

I landed the rest of the detachments; all of our plans

succeeded, and we took control of the island of Grande

Saline without encountering any resistance.

I immediately sent ashore all the workmen I could

find among the crews and, further, assigned daily sixty

men to work under Monsieur de Courrejolles, at the various

tasks which had to be performed at the same time, I

unloaded ammunition and cannon as and when required.

We had brought with us four 24-pounder cannon

with which Monsieur de Courrejolles built a battery on

the seashore, in front of his ammunition stores and living

quarters. We anchored the ships a quarter of a league

away, a reef line preventing us from coming any closer.

It was unanimously determined that we could not be adequately

protected in this situation, and that I would have

no other choice than to set sail, should I be in danger of

being attacked.

Wanting to contribute all of my resources to the

establishment [of the stronghold], I provided Monsieur

de Courrejolles everything that he asked, even an additional

nine quintals [1,980 pounds] of powder and two

of my cannons, in order to build a battery on a small

island located east of the Grande Saline [called Gibbs Cay

today, it appears on French maps as Isle de Fort Castries,

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 63

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum


This map of the southern end of Grand Turk shows where the engagements described in the transcript below took place.

evidently named after the Marquis de Castries, then

Secretary of the French Navy], which he intended to use

as a retreat point if the situation dictated it. I planned,

upon my departure, to leave the Cornwallis under his

command. Judging that she was not safe where we were,

I had her anchor under this new battery which she managed

to reach only after zigzagging among rocks, and

because she drew little water, which afforded her shelter

from attacks. I was also required to put ashore my water

as well as my casks, consequently I kept only what was

necessary for my crossing [back to Saint-Domingue].

Monsieur de Bellecombe stipulated that I must stay

in the Turk Islands not only until the stronghold which

we wanted to establish was completed, but also to leave

as to arrive at the Cap no earlier than March 6th, in order

that my mission be kept secret until that date. The 27th

of February, everything being finished at the Grande

Saline, the workmen were kept occupied constructing the

gun battery on the small island [Gibbs Cay]. This work,

meant to be the last, was well-advanced within the next

two days, which allowed me to set my departure date

between the 4th and the 5th. I had been, up to that point,

as lucky as I could have hoped to be, all the operations

being completed, and I enjoyed the satisfaction of having

precisely fulfilled the mission that had been entrusted to

me, confident of the good fortune I still needed for my

return journey.

On the 2nd of March, at two o’clock in the afternoon,

the rowboat and long boat being occupied, the first transporting

timber from the Grande Saline to the small island

to finish the cribbing, and the long boat gathering ballast,

the lookout posted on land signaled seeing sails.

Nothing had yet been spotted from the top of the masts

where I myself climbed having only a few officers, but

no sooner were we in position to observe than two vessels

that had been hidden by the upper elevations of the

island, suddenly appeared behind a lower land feature,

heading toward the North point. Because of their proximity

we were able to recognize a vessel with two batteries

[two gun decks] and a frigate, and at the same time able

to judge our tardiness in spotting them. We did not have

any time to waste, prompting me to cut the [anchor] cable

on the spot. I also hailed the Dauphin who took the same

action, and we headed to the south of the channel, raising

sails as promptly as possible. I had sixty men ashore,

and the Sieur de Gaillard, garde de la marine, was also

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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

there on duty, but not having enough men for maneuvering,

I found the circumstance too pressing to wait for


The vessel appeared after a few moments, having

passed the tip of the island and chased us, being two

small leagues to our rear; it did not take us long to realize

that they had superior speed; however, the distance

which separated us left me the hope that they would not

catch up with us until night. At three thirty, the vessel had

closed in considerably; the Dauphin, which had stayed

within shouting distance downwind from me, cut down

his fore-topmast, although the sea and wind were favorable

to sailing with light sails. I signaled to him to assume

chase at the speed which he would deem the less disadvantageous

in his situation; he maintained his speed, and

I somewhat succeeded in this maneuver which forced the

enemy to decide which one of the two vessels [to chase],

giving me the confidence that the Dauphin would escape.

I hoped that he [the enemy vessel] would abandon pursuit

of the Dauphin and try to catch up with me, thinking

that the frigate which was following him would be able to

capture the Dauphin. He fired a few cannon shots as he

passed him, but at too great a distance to threaten the


I used all the means at my disposal to reach maximum

speed. Unfortunately, nothing succeeded nor made

up for the disadvantages of not having a hull sheathed

with copper, of having last been careened a year ago, and

for the lack of stability caused by the quantities of water

casks and other objects of considerable weight which I

was obliged to put ashore on Turk island.

At five o’clock the vessel having approached me

within short range, and not firing, I lowered the English

flag to raise the French flag, and warned him with my

cannon which I had kept retracted, he responded with

his chase ordnance. The exchange of fire continued

between one and the other for approximately twenty-five

minutes; I aimed the guns in such a manner as to cause

damage to his masts, which might delay him and give

me time to escape, but did not succeed. At five thirty

the enemy caught up with me and followed downwind

at pistol shot range, I then opened fire with the battery

that I had managed to arm with the remaining personnel.

At the same time, he fired upon us broadside with

his entire battery and his muskets. Having employed all

the means of defense against such superior forces, I had

From top: The illustration depicts two English frigates in pursuit of

another vessel.

“Island of Fort Castries,” corresponding to modern Gibbs Cay, is

clearly marked on this 18th century French map of the Turks Islands.

the painful duty to surrender the King’s corvette, after

having thrown into the sea all the signals and instructions

pertaining to my mission. We were boarded by the

English vessel named the Resistance, carrying 56 guns;

her escort, which was not functioning properly, caught up

with us three quarters of an hour later, the distance and

the already obscure night had caused her to lose sight of

the Dauphin, which I have since learned happily arrived

at Port-de-Paix, on the coast of Saint-Domingue.

Among the casualties which the Coquette sustained

on this occasion, is the Sieur Courdoux, auxiliary lieutenant,

who received a gunshot wound to the hand, losing

use of it, and a strong concussion to the chest, caused by

a flying fragment of wood. The praises that his conduct

commands, the great number of campaigns at the King’s

service, and the seriousness of his wound, are grounds

for hoping to obtain the graces of His Majesty.


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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum


Are these low stone foundations atop Gibbs Cay the remains of Courrejeolles’ “fall back”


I feel compelled to add at the end of my log summary

what I witnessed relative to the attempt made by the

English to retake the Turk islands, while I was prisoner

aboard their vessels.

On March 5th, the vessel the Resistance, along with

the frigates Tartar and Albermarle, which were joined

as well by the brigantines Drake and Barington, having

planned to retake the Turk Islands, anchored on the 6th

on the south part of the Grande Saline. On the 7th, the

ships fired several grapeshot broadsides on the [aziers?]

which fringe the coast, and on the promontory where they

intended to land in order to make sure that we did not

have any fortification there. They landed approximately

two hundred men, soldiers as well as sailors, with the two

brigantines anchored in front of the dwellings in order

to provide cover for the advancing troops. They did not

know the location of our battery, and thought it to be

made up only of cannons from the Coquette. They were

fired upon with the 24-pounders but held their position

for approximately one hour, vigorously responding with

their small artillery. [The English ships] having been hit

by two cannon balls which caused damage and wounded

several men, cut their [anchor] cables and returned to

their original anchorage. The English troops returned to

their ships in the evening without daring to leave the protection

of the vessels, having seen us [the French forces

on the island] well dug in, and with field artillery which

they themselves lacked.

The English had the intention of

resuming their attack the next day,

but the wind, which shifted to the

West during the night, caused their

plan to fail. They became preoccupied

with the danger that they faced; managing

to escape [the danger of being

driven onto a lee shore] with great

difficulty. They completely abandoned

their project and departed.

I must give great credit to the

crews of the corvette, for keeping

silent on the subject of the forces

that we had on the island, as well as

the positions [batteries and fortifications]

which we had established on

the island despite the tortures that

were inflicted on several of them.

At the Cap, 18 April 1783

Grasse Brianson


No documents have turned up that tell “the rest of the

story.” At some point soon after the Nelson’s squadron

departed Grand Turk, so did the French garrison, perhaps

aboard the small vessel Cornwallis, left behind in Hawk’s

Nest anchorage. It seems odd that in both English and

French accounts there is no mention of the people living

on Grand Turk at the time, just “dwellings.” The conflict

was not about them, whoever they were, but about determining

which European nation could make its claim of

possession stick. England’s superior sea power accomplished

that once and for all in 1783, even though both

Spain and France both had designs on the Turks Islands

for centuries.

Do any traces of the French Invasion of 1783 survive?

Historian H.E. Sadler writes that “an old French cannon”

was uncovered during the construction of the American

missile-tracking station around Fire Hill at the south end

of Grand Turk and that it was taken away and put on

display at the Kennedy Space Center on Cape Canaveral.

This remains to be verified, but low stone foundations on

top of Gibbs Cay may well be the remains of Courrejeolles’

“fall back” position. a

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Remembering Sherlin Williams

Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith

1995: When the Museum’s first Director, Barry Dressel, became interested

in the history of Grand Turk’s salt industry, he discovered that Sherlin had

grown up on Grand Turk when the salt industry was still in full swing and

had witnessed salt production in action. Sherlin pointed out that there were

a number of different types of windmills still standing, but only one example

of a type called the “carousel” was left. It was in the Town Salina only a few

blocks from the Museum. He said the salina is always flooded these days,

but the walls people used to walk on between ponds were still there, just

under the surface and we could walk out to see it. We took our notepads and

cameras, rolled up our pant legs, and followed him out to the site. Passers-by

stopped and stared. It had been years since anyone had seen people in the

salina and it must have looked like we were walking on water!

1999: Sherlin was not directly

involved in making rubber moulds of

the inscribed rocks on Sapodilla Hill

in Provo, but he eagerly dived into the

hardest part of the project—making

resin casts of the inscriptions in the

Museum’s “wet lab.” I experimented

with various combinations of plaster,

resins, hardeners, fillers, and release

agents until I found an ideal formula.

It was a difficult and tedious process

and once you got started you had to

continue until it was finished which

meant long days and long nights! But

Sherlin hung in there. Altogether we

made more than two dozen casts over

a period of weeks. The resin casts all

come out of the rubber moulds a brilliant white. Here he is “cosmetizing” one

with watercolor washes to make it look exactly the way it does on the hill.

1998: Sherlin is measuring the “drive

shaft” of a windmill that the Museum

recovered after it collapsed into the

North Salina. As a child growing up

on Grand Turk, Sherlin was fascinated

by the windmills that were fully operational

then. A careful observer, he

understood how they worked and

how they circulated the water in the

salinas to increase the efficiency of

the process of reducing tons of seawater

to handfuls of salt.

We learned more from him than

from all the written references on the

subject in our library. The wooden

timbers of the windmill were too far

gone to save, but Sherlin wanted to

save the iron parts so the Museum

could reconstruct the windmill one

day and put it back into service. He

wanted it to serve as a memorial to

the folks who worked in the salinas

all their lives and made Grand Turk’s

salt industry world-famous.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 67

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

(At left) 2010: Grethe Seim saved this “Archimedes Screw” from going to the

dump decades before the Museum was created and took it to her home for

safekeeping. She wanted it to go to the Museum but it took a long time to

figure out how and when to do it. We had to hunt for it because it had been

kept outdoors and the bush had grown up around it. In a reversal of roles,

Sherlin cleared the bush while I took the photos! A group of Chinese laborers

working on a house nearby cheerfully carried the screw uphill through

the bush to the truck for the trip back to the Museum. Once we got it there,

Sherlin cajoled Mr. Oswald “King Oz” Francis—the only person who remembered

when it was made, what its purpose was, and where it came from—to

come over and tell us its history.

(At right) 2012: Like me, Sherlin

was enthralled by the Grand Turk

Lighthouse. As a photographer, he

saw its majestic, photogenic potential.

As an archaeologist, I saw a

magnificent, intact machine from the

early industrial age with a plethora

of mysteries to unravel. We visited it

together many times although gaining

officially sanctioned entry was

often tedious. Here, we are in the “ready room.” The spiral staircase to Sherlin’s left leads to the “lamp room” where

the actual light is. The tube to his right leads from the clockwork mechanism above all the way through the height

of the lighthouse and into a hole in the ground beneath it. The 400 pound weight pulled down the tube by gravity

is what turned the light all night.

(At left) 2013: For the exhibit featuring

the exploits of the larger-than-life

helmet diver Jeremiah Murphy, who

lived on Grand Turk, we had to locate

and purchase all the equipment to

fit out a 19th-century helmet diver.

We found a pair of lead, leather and

brass diving boots in England, but

when they arrived, we found the

leather to be dry, hard, and fragile.

Sherlin worked for weeks bathing the

leather in two types of cleaners and

conditioners to get it supple enough

to use in the Museum’s exhibit.

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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

(At left) 2013: One of the last projects

we worked on together was

creating the “Golden Age of Grand

Turk” exhibit featuring a reproduction

of the “lamp room” of Grand

Turk’s lighthouse. No plans of the

lighthouse survive, so we had to measure,

photograph, and document it

from scratch. Here Sherlin is inspecting

the exhibit, perhaps reflecting on

the first work he did for the Museum

two decades earlier restoring the

clockwork mechanism that led to the

creation of this exhibit.

Over the course of 30+ years as a photographer in TCI, Sherlin compiled tens of thousands of photos, including those

of many buildings, especially in Grand Turk, that no longer exist. As his craft became digitalized, Sherlin went abroad

and took courses to become fluent in image and layout-focused programs. When he started experimenting with the

creative possibilities, he found he could use his life’s massive collection of photos in a new and different way. Each

“Photocraph” encompasses anywhere from dozens to hundreds to thousands of individual photos, carefully “cut,”

“pasted,” modified and placed into a computer file to form an original work of art. One of his favorite pieces, entitled

“The Mule Breeder,” included nearly 3,500 individual items and took four months to complete. Shown above, “Hillary

Session” is one of the “photocraphs” Sherlin created in about 2011. Tragically, a year or two later his computer was

stolen, his health began to deteriorate, and he was unable to continue pursuing his art.


Times of the Islands Spring 2017 69

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

Museum matters

By Museum Director Pat Saxton


25th anniversary party

It was a dark and stormy night . . . and everyone volunteering

to help at the Museum’s 25th Anniversary party

was debating whether to take a chance having the party

outside as planned, or batten the hatches and hole up

inside. Even after the rain stopped we unanimously

agreed that discretion was the better part of valor and

we should have it “below decks” inside. We did not

realize it at the time, but the inclement weather was

a blessing in disguise! The ambiance of the Museum,

complete with low lighting, creaky ship sound effects,

and all volunteers and staff in costume provided the

perfect setting for our “Time Travel” event.

Our Providenciales representative Candianne

Williams greeted guests as they started slogging in. To

their surprise, and sometimes astonishment, she presented

each with a card—their persona for the rest of

the evening—and the challenge of locating themselves

and their place in history among the Museum’s exhibits.

Some cards bore the names of historical figures or

personnel associated with the Museum, while others

had the names of crew members serving on the Spanish

ship of exploration and discovery, La Joya Pequena (the

Little Gem), the “stage name” we gave to the Molasses

Reef Wreck for the evening.

Each guest was presented with a Time Travel Card, and the challenge

to locate their “persona” among the Museum’s exhibits.

The idea was to “find yourself” somewhere in the

Museum. With exhibits on two floors and a dozen rooms,

hints printed on the cards helped, and soon all 65 guests

were buzzing around looking for their namesakes. Of

course there was lots of laughter as the party-goers compared

notes and called each other by their new identities.

Students from the high school, under the direction of

Mrs. Swimmer passed out delicious canapés during the

entire event.

Students from Grand Turk’s H.J. Robinson High School served canapés

to party guests.

Once everyone found their identities, they handed in their

nametags and were awarded prizes associated with their

new calling. The boatswain won a boatswain key chain,

“Jeremiah Murphy” won a hard helmet key chain. “Sandy,”

the little donkey hero of Donna Seim’s book, got a copy

of our new 2017 calendar—and the list went on.

Pat Saxton delivered a witty poem relating the 25-year

history of the Museum complete with slide show. At the

end of the presentation everyone was handed a glass of

champagne (kindly donated by Grand Turk Liquors/The

Wine Store) to toast the Museum’s success.

HE Governor Dr. John Freeman congratulated the Museum

for the work it has done and continues to do. Hon. Derek

Taylor, who sits on the Board, spoke about the Museum’s

efforts to save the history of TCI. Long-time supporter

Ms. Lillian Swann-Misick reiterated the important work

the Museum does.


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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum

Having received many

compliments about the

party we want to thank

TCNM’s loyal members

and friends of who came to

help us celebrate 25 years

of “Protecting, preserving

and promoting the history

and culture of the Turks &

Caicos Islands.” Thanks to

staff members Candianne

Williams, Nikki Jennings,

Ivy Basden, and Fred

Glinton who worked all

night to ensure our guests

had the best possible

experience. Thanks also to

our wonderful volunteers

Dudley Been, Claudia and

Edger Schnetz, Séamus

and Hilary Day, Neil

The Turks & Caicos National Museum staff (from left): Pat Saxton, Fred Glinton, Ivy Basden, Candianne

Williams, and Nikki Jennings take a night off to celebrate!

Join the Museum

Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription

to Times of the Islands (which includes

Astrolabe), free admission to the Museum, and a

Members’ Discount in the Museum Shop.

Senior (62+) $35

Individual $50

Family/Friend $100

Sponsor $250

Contributor $500

Partner $750



From left: Norman Watts, Mrs. Corina Freeman, and Martin Seim enjoy

the Museum’s grand 25th anniversary event.

Saxton, and Rebecca Cain, who continue to give unselfishly

of their time and energy. We appreciate Martin Seim

and B. Naqqi Manco for being our official photographers!

And of course, thanks to Mrs. Grethe Seim for her vision

and generosity which made this event—and the whole

Turks & Caicos National Museum—possible. a

To join*, send name, address, email, and type of

membership, along with cheque or money order

payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:

Friends of the Turks & Caicos National


39 Condesa Road

Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA

Or, visit:


*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum is tax-deductible

via Friends of the Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn:

Donald H. Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our

affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 71

food for thought

Opposite page: A cold glass of Turk’s Head Lager is deemed “the quintessential refreshing beer,” a staple for a hot, sunny beach day.

Above: Tours of the Turk’s Head Brewery are now available. The manufacturing process, from start to finish, is fascinating!

Brewed in the TCI

Turk’s Head Brewery is now open for tours.

Story & Photos By Kathy Borsuk

I still remember the day we took my 92-year-old grandfather to tour the Anheuser-Busch brewery in

Milwaukee, Wisconsin. After walking through vast rooms in the huge plant, climbing countless flights

of stairs, and (trying to) listen to the guide over the factory’s din, we finally reached the tasting room.

My dear Czechoslovakian grandpa’s understated comment? “That was a lot of work for a glass of beer.”

I think he’d be surprised at the current attraction of craft beers, tours of the breweries that make

them, and tasting rooms that have taken on the aura of a science lab. He’d be even more surprised to

learn there is now such an operation in the Turks & Caicos Islands.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 73

Since 2001, the Turk’s Head Brewery has been operating

in a group of large warehouses in the industrial area

of Providenciales, just east of the Five Cays “shortcut” off

Leeward Highway. Our storage locker is just behind the

brewery, and its presence finally explains the mysterious,

heady aroma I often smelled while unloading magazines.

The brewery is part of Provo Beverages, along with the

TC Crystal Pure Water company, and in spite of refilling

my plastic gallons there every day, I never knew that beer

was being brewed in the back.

Currently, Turk’s Head Brewery makes lager, amber

ale, IPA and light versions of Turk’s Head Beer. You can

find the products sold in most grocery and liquor stores

in the Islands, and served—either bottled or on tap—at

most restaurants and bars. The lager is the best seller,

described as “the quintessential refreshing beer,” a staple

for a hot, sunny beach day, and somewhat similar

to Corona. The amber ale is more full-bodied, while the

India Pale Ale emits fruity aromas of papaya (I vouch for

that!), with a tastebud-tickling touch of bitterness.

Besides being the country’s most affordable beer, visitors

and locals love to support this genuine product of

the Turks & Caicos Islands. For many tourists, their only

complaint is that it is not currently sold off-island. The

brewery’s unique mobile bar is a staple at the popular

Thursday Night Fish Fry, as well as most Providenciales

sporting and charity events.

Just prior to opening to the public, Sales & Marketing

Representative Mike Bozzer led me on a private tour of

the brewery. Besides being fascinating (I, like many, am a

devotee of “How It’s Made”), the tour revealed a spotless,

professional plant complete with catwalks and a brandnew

tasting room overlooking the bottling area. Here,

visitors can sample each of the various draughts and purchase

very cool Turk’s Head merchandise—t-shirts, caps,

bottle openers, glasses, bar towels, and the like—to take

home as souvenirs.

The brewing process begins with ultra-refined

desalinated water (made on-site at the water plant),

barley imported by the container-load from Minnesota,

Germany and elsewhere, and hops shipped in from places

as far-ranging as New Zealand and the Pacific Northwest.

Mike explained that the first step is converting the natural

starch in the malted grain to sugar, done by soaking the

barley in warm water to release the enzymes, then boiling

this sugar water in a kettle to concentrate the sugar and

sterilize and purify the “wort.” Next, the hops are added,

with amount and timing Brewmaster Eric Cardin’s calls

depending on the type of beer being brewed. The mixture

is then sent through a heat exchanger to rapidly chill,

Left: These 80-barrel fermenters hold the beer for as long as several weeks, depending on the beer type.

Right: Following filtration, the beer is either bottled, canned, or kegged, each date-stamped for freshness.

74 www.timespub.tc

Above: Turk’s Head Brewery currently makes a light ale, an amber

ale, the popular lager, and a full-bodied IPA. After the brewery tour,

visitors can sample each brew in the tasting room.

Below: In 2016, the brewery produced the equivalent of two million

bottles of beer, sold throughout the Turks & Caicos Islands.

before being put in glycol-jacketed fermenters with yeasts

added to convert the sugar to alcohol. The mixture is

allowed to ferment and age for as long as several weeks,

depending on the beer type. Generally, the more sugars

in the wort, the stronger the concentration of alcohol.

Finally, the beer is carefully filtered to ensure a clean,

crisp product. Following filtration, it is either bottled,

canned or kegged, each date-stamped to ensure freshness.

Random bottles are regularly tested to maintain

the product’s integrity. From there, the product is packaged

and distributed across the Turks & Caicos Islands.

Although there is a four-month shelf life, Mike says rarely

does the beer remain in its container for that long!

Operating at capacity, in 2016 the brewery produced

the equivalent of two million bottles of beer. Employing

25 to 30 people, the locally owned Turk’s Head Brewery

can be said to be the country’s largest industrial producer,

and quite a success story. The original plant

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 75

A variety of souvenirs are available for sale in the Turk’s Head

Brewery’s ad_Layout new tasting 1 11/16/16 room. 2:11 PM Page 1

Looking for something a little different?

Take a Turk’s Head Brewery Tour!

Experience a wide variety of beer from the Island’s ONLY local brewery.


Call (649) 941-3637 or email info@turksheadbeer.com

for more information.

Located at 52 Universal Dr. - Just off South Dock Rd., Providenciales.

started with a ten barrel system and sold only kegs to

a few restaurants and hotels; since mid-2013 twelve

80-barrel fermenters (each holding about 1,000 cases of

beer) are producing millions of dollars worth of product,

and the new beers have entered the high-end market.

The brewery/water plant also markets two other refreshing

drinks: Bambashay Caicos Cran (a vodka-cranberry

cocktail) and the popular Bambarra Cuba Libre (a classic

version of rum and cola), both available in cans to easily

take to the beach or on boats.

The tour and tasting room opened in February 2017.

One-hour tours are offered several times daily, six days

a week. Besides sampling the six current products, visitors

may also have the chance to try the brewmaster’s

specials—one-of-a-kind stouts, pilsners, and wheat beers

being tested for sale at select restaurants or as potential

new offerings. The tasting room is also available for

rental for special events like bachelor or birthday parties.

Just like its sister company TC Crystal, the Turk’s

Head Brewery is heavily involved in the community.

Besides sponsoring numerous environmental events and

a recent 10K race for the Delano Williams Foundation,

all proceeds of the mobile bar at sailing regattas sponsored

by the Provo Sailing Club are donated back to the

organization. They also sponsor the Turk’s Head All Fleet

National Sailing Championships. TC Crystal bottles water

in 63% biodegradable bottles, and regularly sponsors

beach clean-ups, school promotions, and has donated

dozens of garbage drums to help keep the Islands clean.

That in itself deserves a toast! a

For more information, call 649 241-4311 or email tours@


MOV-A-THON2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 8:06 AM Page 1

Nutrition in Demand, , a non profit raising awareness to

the importance of health and healthy eating

Motto: eating healthy today... living longer, better tomorrow

• Educational workshops for seniors, adults, children & teenagers

• Nutrition and physical activity summer camp

• Nutrition education and culinary class for children

• Weight loss support groups • Nutrition education for mass media

To donate to our non profit or to one of our programs,

visit our website: www.nutritionindemand.com

or call: (649) 442-3978

For individual Medical Nutrition Therapy counseling, corporate wellness

and lunch & learns, please contact Mrs. Tamika Handfeld MS, RD

Provo Plaza No.5, Leeward Highway

Call: (649) 442-3978

76 www.timespub.tc

shape up

Chocolate, grapes and your heart

By Tamika Handfield MS, RD, Nutrition in Demand

In February, we celebrated Valentine’s Day and observed

Heart Health Awareness Month. So it is a perfect time to

talk about phytonutrients—a class of chemicals found

in various plant foods that offer health benefits. Here

we will cover only two—flavonoids and polyphenols.

It may surprise you that chocolate has phytonutrients!

Various research studies now suggest chocolate

has some heart-healthy benefits—such as helping to

lower cholesterol levels and decreasing the likelihood

of suffering a stroke. However, there is a disclaimer;

it seems only dark chocolate offers these benefits

because of a class of phytonutrients known as flavonoids.

(Sugary milk chocolate has been associated with

obesity, tooth decay, and acne.) Cocoa beans, from

which dark chocolate is made, are a very good source of

flavonoids. However, the high flavonoid content gives

cocoa a naturally strong taste. To make it more palatable,

cocoa is processed which leads to the decrease of

the flavonoid properties and benefits. As in all things,

moderation is the key.

Another class of phytonutrients that offer

heart-protective benefit is polyphenols. Polyphenols

have become quite popular in recent years because,

like its counterpart flavonoid, it helps to prevent blood

clots, lower blood pressure and improve the function of

the blood vessels—all leading to better heart function.

While there are thousands of polyphenols, the one

that has gotten the most media coverage is resveratrol.

It is common knowledge now that a glass or two

of red wine consumed daily can help to prevent heart

disease; however, not everyone wants to drink wine

or any other alcohol and may be wondering how they

can get the same benefits. Luckily, many other foods

such as grapes, apples, onions, soy, peanuts, berries,

and several other vegetables and fruits are packed with


Additionally, research shows that indeed grape

juice made from Concord grapes offer the same protection

as red wine (and in some cases, more). The

reason for this is that some of the chemicals used to

prevent fungal growth on the

grapes destroy some of the

resveratrol. Red and dark-purple

grapes consumed with the

skins are also good sources of

vitamins C, E, potassium and

fiber. It is important to remember, though, that much

of the nutritional benefit of the grape is found in its

skin and seeds rather than the pulp. I have seen many

people sit and painstakingly peel the skin off and, at

the same time, unknowingly discard most of the nutritional


Grapes are an amazingly refreshing low-calorie

snack and can be enjoyed in a variety of ways:

• Freeze grapes for a cool snack on a hot summer day;

• Serve stewed grapes with meat items;

• Add grapes to pasta dishes for a touch of sweetness;

• Add to a green salad or fruit salad;

• Serve grapes with wine, cheese and crackers as a

delectable party food;

• And my husband swears that grapes with lightly

salted peanuts is a snack compared to none other.

So, go ahead and show your heart some love

through making wise food choices. a

This article is brought to you by Nutrition in Demand,

a nonprofit aimed at raising health and healthy eating

through a variety of workshops, seminars, nutrition

and physical activity camps, culinary and nutrition

education classes for schoolchildren, public service

announcements, and print and visual media. For more

information on Nutrition in Demand, please visit our

website: www.nutritionindemand.com or follow us on

social media — Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 77

shape up

Did you miss something?

By Meelike Mitt, Personal Trainer, Nutrition Consultant, Lifestyle Coach

Wrightfully Fit Sport Centre, Providenciales

What have you done for the last six months to have

more energy, to sleep better and feel great? The reason

I ask this question is simple—in all my experience

within the fitness industry unless you are serious about

making a change it won’t happen.

We need to raise our standards. We could all wake

up in the morning feeling wonderful, full of energy,

ready to take on the world, but most of us have a set of

values that stops us from doing this. We need to start

asking more of ourselves.

Start by determining which areas of your life need

to be raised or improved. Write down a list of where

your standards are low and focus on them. Spend some

time alone. Realize who you really are. Smile, look good

and tell yourself you’re worth it. Even with your failures

and flaws you are still an amazing person. Don’t let

anyone change your mind!

The second thing you have got to change is your

approach. Too many of us carry on doing things even

when that approach does not work anymore. How many

people have tried dieting? You go on a diet, lose weight,

come off the diet and often put the weight back on (and

more). So after that we often go back on the same diet

that didn’t give long-lasting results in the first place!

It’s crazy, but we all do it.

We have to start asking the “why” questions. Why

aren’t I losing weight? Why can’t I keep it off? Is it aging?

No! Too many people hide behind this excuse. Aging is

not a disease, it’s a process. Sometimes the problem is

that we spend all our time pushing our careers, starting

families, eating poorly, and under-exercising and then

suddenly wonder what happened to our bodies. It’s

not age but the disdain with which we treat our bodies

that leads to premature aging. We have to change our


Another area to consider is consistency. Most of

us are consistently bad! But we have to build consistency

into our program, as consistency brings results!

Being consistent is essential if you want to make any

significant change in your life—making progress, doing

better work, getting in shape,

and achieving some level of

success in most areas of life.

One more thing to touch,

which is very important, is

stress. We all respond differently to stress, both psychologically

and physically. I see people every week

where stress has taken over their life. Unfortunately,

research reveals that it’s also a fact of fat. Even if you

usually eat well and exercise, chronic high stress can

prevent you from losing weight. Also get enough sleep.

This means eight hours of good-quality sleep on a regular

schedule each night. Make changes to your routine

if you can’t find enough time to sleep.

Don’t forget your smile . . . you need to be happy!

Find your own way to be happy, find your own activities

that bring you joy. Keep moving as it gives you more

energy and if you have more energy it makes you smile.

Stop sitting and go for a walk, a run, play a game,

go bush-walking or dance as if no one is watching.

Exercising gets the endorphins flowing and is guaranteed

to make you feel good. Happiness makes you feel

less stressed, it energizes your immune system, it lets

you think more clearly, it’s more fun, and of course it

brings out positivity, a wonderful energy to work with.

Practice finding moments to be happy on a day-to-day

basis. a

Meelike Mitt loves guiding people whose aim is to

achieve better physical fitness, health and self-satisfaction

through trainings and nutrition. She has

graduated from Tallinn University of Health Sciences

and the Institute of Sports in Estonia and has completed

a course in Personal Fitness Training. Besides personal

training, she is certified in BodyPump, Bodybalance,

Reebok Core Board & Fitball, Functional Training,

Chiball, Pilates, Yoga, Real Ryder and Spinning workouts.

For more information, call Meelike at 649 441

6051 or email meelike@wrightfullyfit.com or visit


78 www.timespub.tc

faces and places

To end the Colour Run, kids and adults have to throw bags of colour into the air!

Colour Run

On January 29, 2017, the Provo Hockey League held its Second Annual Colour Run at the Meridian Field in

Providenciales, with the assistance of Islehelp.net and the tunes of DJ Viper. The community ran a 5K route of smiles

through red, yellow, blue and green zones ending back at the start to more colour bombing and water balloons. All

funds raised will help PHL bring affordable inline hockey to the boys and girls of TCI. For more information on PHL,

visit phl.pointstreaksites.com.

By Claire Parrish ~ Photos by Le Mens Welch, Caya Hico Media

The route took runners from Meridian Field to the beach near Bay Bistro, onward to the beach at Villa Renaissance and back to the Meridian

Field for more fun and games.

Some ran fast, some ran slow; all ran with smiles.

Come out for next year’s PHL Colour Run. You don’t have to play hockey, but all funds go into PHL’s special Community League.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 79

about the Islands

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.

Where we are

The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast

of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —

with the Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and

the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.

The country consists of two island groups separated

by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are

the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To

the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s

population is approximately 32,000.

Getting here

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic

airports on all of the islands except East Caicos.

At this time, all of the major international carriers

arrive and depart from Providenciales International

Airport. During the busy winter season, American Airlines

flies three times daily from Miami, daily from Charlotte,

and from Boston, Dallas, New York/JFK on Saturday

and from Philadelphia on Saturday and Sunday. JetBlue

Airways offers daily service from Fort Lauderdale, two

daily flights from New York/JFK and flights from Boston

on Saturday and Sunday. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta

and New York/JFK daily. United Airlines flies from Newark

daily and from Chicago and Washington DC on Saturday.

West Jet travels from Toronto on Monday, Wednesday,

80 www.timespub.tc

Friday and Saturday. Air Canada offer daily flights from

Toronto and flies from Montreal on Friday and Sunday.

British Airways travels on Thursday and Sunday from

London/Gatwick via Antigua.

Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;

Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday, Wednesday,

and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express

travel to Haiti daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies

to the Dominican Republic daily (except Wednesday);

to Jamaica on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday,

and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.

Inter-caribbean Airways also travels to both Santiago and

Havana, Cuba, several times a week. (Schedules are current

as of February 2017 and subject to change.)

Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean

Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea

and air freight services operate from Florida.

All Natural &

Gluten Free



Time zone

Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.


The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.

dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.

Made with family recipes that date back

centuries, Islander, the original Turks and

Caicos alcoholic ginger beer, is available on

Providenciales at the Graceway Gourmet and

the IGA, as well as local bars and restaurants.



The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The

hottest months are September and October, when the

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,

the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and

keep life comfortable.

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing

and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out

in the tropical sun.

Entry requirements

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.

Customs formalities

Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton

of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 81

and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including

those charged with compressed air without prior

approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled

drugs, and pornography are also illegal.

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of

merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of

government revenue.


A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting

vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the

left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout the Islands and

many resorts offer shuttle service between popular visitor

areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are

also available.


FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts

and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with

a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can

arrange international roaming.


120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.

Departure tax

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into the

cost of your ticket.

Courier service

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is

limited to incoming delivery.

Postal service

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,

the Post Office is on Front Street, with the Philatelic

Bureau on Church Folly. The Islands are known for their

varied and colorful stamp issues.


Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally

transmitted television stations, along with local news

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.

Medical services

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.

Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:

24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,

physiotherapy, and dentistry.

In addition, several general practitioners operate in

the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along

with a number of private pharmacies.


A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A

work permit and business license are also required to

work and/or establish a business. These are generally

granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications

not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given

to enterprises that will provide employment and training

for T&C Islanders.

Government/Legal system

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed

Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive

council formed by the elected local government.

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is the country’s first

woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic

Movement (PDM) House of Assembly.

The legal system is based upon English Common

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court

of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final

Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.


There are currently no direct taxes on either income

82 www.timespub.tc

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,

restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.


Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of

salt. Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry,

and fishing generate the most private sector income.

The Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch, with

the world’s first commercial conch farm operating on

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs

are imported.

The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an

important offshore financial centre, offering services

such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.

The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry

and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.


Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African

slaves who were brought to the Islands to work on the

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.


Churches are the center of community life and there

are many faiths represented in the Islands, including:

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i,

Baptist, Catholic, Church of God of Prophecy, Episcopal,

Faith Tabernacle Church of God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.


Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test

results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain

clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal

Health Services.

National symbols

The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).

The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium

bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 83

National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.

bahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton

dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing

the various islands are displayed on the sleeves

and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours,” by

the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.

Going green

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling services

through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!


Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,

scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,

and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,

and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving

destination. Tennis and golf—there is an eighteen hole

championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.

The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in

thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,

and areas of historical interest. The National Trust

provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as

guided tours of major historical sites. There is an excellent

national museum on Grand Turk, with an auxillary

branch on Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection

of tour operators make it easy to take day trips to the

outer islands.

Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback

riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are

available to motivate you, working out of several fitness

centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment


Nightlife includes local bands playing island music

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are

two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a

84 www.timespub.tc

where to stay

Grand Turk

range of daily rates

US$ (subject to change)

number of units

major credit cards



air conditioning

phone in unit

television in unit

kitchen in unit

laundry service


on the beach


The Arches of Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •

Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •

Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •

Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •

Middle Caicos


Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •

North Caicos


Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •

Pine Cay


The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •

Parrot Cay


Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 866 388 0036/904 886 97768 • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •






















Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •

The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •

The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.theatriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •

Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •

Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •

Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •

Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •

Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •

Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.kokomobotanicalresort.com 169–299 16 • • • • •

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •

The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web thepalmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •

Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 85
















where to stay

range of daily rates

US$ (subject to change)

number of units

major credit cards



air conditioning

phone in unit

television in unit

kitchen in unit

laundry service


on the beach

Providenciales (continued)

Ports of Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.portsofcallresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •

Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.thesandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •

Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •

The Shore Club on Long Bay – Tel 888 808 9488/649 339 8000 – www.the shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •

Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •

Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •

The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.thetuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •

The Venetian – Tel 866 242 0969/649 941 3512 • Web www.thevenetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •

West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •

The Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •

The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •

Salt Cay

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •

The Villas of Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villasofsaltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •

South Caicos

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •

Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •



Hotel & Tourism Association Member

Green Globe Certified

Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge

86 www.timespub.tc

dining out – providenciales

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet

cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,

catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.

Asú on the Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for breakfast,

lunch and dinner. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.

All-inclusive resort. A variety of restaurants and bars on premises.

Non-guests can purchase a pass.

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above

tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch

and pizza in the garden. Private catering available.

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide

selection of burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh

local conch and seafood by the beach. Rum, buckets of beer,

live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.

Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.

Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from 7

AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view of the sea.

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Authentic French boulangerie.

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining

on the deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.

Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-

8122. Generous portions of local and international fare at

moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.

Cozy restaurant offering island food with flair; famous for fish

tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM.

Chicken Chicken — Times Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,

fried chicken, native fare.

Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.

The Islands’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open

daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.

Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion of Asian

cuisines. Take-away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily 11:30

AM to 3 PM and 5:30 to 10:00 PM.

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in the evenings.

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy of palms.

Serving dinner nightly from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday.

Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,

Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and

tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game

room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports of Call. Tel: 245-0005. Experience

the best of authentic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines

with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open for dinner 5 to 10 PM daily

except Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.

Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.

Breakfast sandwiches, specialty coffees, soups, salads, gourmet

sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to

8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.

Island-fresh seafood from the ocean to your plate. Covered

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.

Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional

American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and

dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs

for sporting events. Karaoke.

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining

and cocktails by the water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.

Live music Friday nights.

Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront

dining. Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily for

lunch and dinner.

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.

Open daily.

Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative

cuisine in an elegant setting. Open daily.

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine

overlooking the “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7

AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.

Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.

Drinks at the Ice Bar, dessert by the fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean

flavors and spices. Open for breakfast daily

7:30 to 10:30 AM; dinner 6 to 9:30 PM. Closed Wednesday.

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Authentic native

cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet

on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.

Carry-out available.

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Authentic

Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.

Open daily 11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out

or delivery.

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports of Call &

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.

Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At the airport. Tel: 946-4472.

Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.

Times of the Islands Spring 2017 87

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under the stars or indoor

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from

6 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night on

Tuesday with live music.

Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-2233.

Internet café, coffee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches, fresh

bakery. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM.

The Grill — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.

Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.

Hemingways on the Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by the pool.

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.

Hole in the Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Authentic Jamaican/Island cuisine

where the locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining

or outdoors on the deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.

Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-

5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet

Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.

Reservations required.

Island Boochery — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 348-7027. Vegan

lifestyle kitchen, offering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet.

Open daily 10 AM to 6 PM; Saturday 10 AM to 2 PM.

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.

21 flavors of ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and coffee

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.

Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports of Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for

steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,

(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.

Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:

941-8388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting

overlooking the sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;

Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!

KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.

Caribbean cuisine with hints of French and Asian fusion and the

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner

under the stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday

5:30 PM to . . .

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.

Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.

Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A

taste of Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,

tapas, dinner specials. Open daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.

Lemon 2 Go Coffee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:

941-4069. Gourmet coffeehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,

croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to

7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,

world music and the finest sunset location in Providenciales.

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Authentic Italian “comfort

food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made

gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine

bar opens at 4 PM.

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors

and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM.

Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio

dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet

coffees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’

go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.

Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.

Carefully crafted selection of sumptous and inspired sundaes,

with coffee, champagne and cocktails for the grown-ups! Open

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.

Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-

4229. A variety of traditional Mexican fare, including salads and

the best margaritas in town. Open daily.

Mother’s Pizza — Downtown Times Square. Tel: 941-4142.

Best pizza in the Turks & Caicos, available by the slice or the

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.

Serving fresh local seafood straight from the sea. Open daily 10

AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.

Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill

International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving

dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor

dining. Conference facility, events, catering.

Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in

a setting of casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private

dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Authentic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18

flavors of Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad offers a

global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily

for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.

Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.

Tel: 941-2365/431-9103. Poolside restaurant and bar with

Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily

from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.

Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.

Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30

AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on the beach.

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays

and Beach BBQ Saturdays.

Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront

restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11

PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.

88 www.timespub.tc

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.

Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking the marina.

Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local

flair. Open daily from 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.

Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,

burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views of

the ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,

5:30 to 9:30 PM.

72West — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining

with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch

daily; dinner seasonally.

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:

941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/game room

with slots. Open daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic

coffees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,

smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.

Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving

fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;

weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!

Solana! on Grace Bay Beach — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-

5254. The Grill Deck menu from sushi to burgers. Bar & Lounge

curated cocktail list and tapas. Teppanyaki and Sushi Bar to

engage directly with the chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on the beach.

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.

Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors of

Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic

produce in a unique setting. Open daily.

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Authentic

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for

lunch and dinner daily.

Three Brothers Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.

Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-

5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.

Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:

941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black

Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fresh fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10

PM. Breakfast on weekends.

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — Regent Village. Tel: 431-2233.

Frozen yogurt in a variety of flavors, with a large selection of

toppings. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.

Via Veneto — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-2372. Authentic Italian

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to

late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!

The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,

island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for

breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.

Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-

0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon

to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry

out available.

Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel: 342-

2472. Sophistication meets class at the new tapas eatery and

entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.

Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and

dinner beachfront. Taste of the Caribbean and Americas. Open

daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. a

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