Eatdrink #64 March/April 2017

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007


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Issue <strong>#64</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

FREE<br />

Farm-to-Fork Organics<br />

The Root Cellar<br />

Rooted in the Community<br />


Blackfriars Catering & Bistro<br />

Tradition with a Twist<br />

Upper Thames Brewing Co.<br />

Passion for Brewing<br />

Cabernet Franc<br />

Is this Ontario’s Red Wine?<br />

Check Out Our<br />


Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />


2 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Stratford’s<br />

delicious salute<br />

to spring<br />

Experience Canada’s liquid gold on the Savour Stratford Maple<br />

Trail during <strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>. Visit McCully’s Hill Maple Festival<br />

for weekend sugar bush tours and pancake brunches. Savour<br />

CheeseWeek menus and explore the world of wild edibles on<br />

spring foraging adventures. Bring your family for a memorable<br />

salute to spring at the annual Swan Parade celebrations.<br />

MARCH<br />

2-5 Stratford Garden Festival<br />

4-5 McCully’s Hill Farm Maple Festival (every weekend)<br />

18 Junction 56 Distillery Tour (every Saturday)<br />

26 Revival House High Tea<br />

APRIL<br />

1-2 Swan Parade Celebrations (Parade Sun. at 2pm)<br />

2-9 CheeseWeek, Local restaurants<br />

5 CheeseFest, Canadian Dairy XPO<br />

22&23 Puck’s Plenty Spring Foraging<br />

visitstratford.ca @StratfordON StratfordON

Savour the flavour<br />

of Elgin County...

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

At Metzger’s,<br />

we follow Old World<br />

recipes to create healthy and<br />

wholesome foods. We hand select<br />

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA<br />

Beef and offer superior local Pork,<br />

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially<br />

proud of our own handcrafted<br />

artisan-style meats and salamis. We<br />

are confident that you will taste the<br />

Metzger Meats difference.<br />

eatdrink<br />

<br />

inc.<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global.<br />

Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />

Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook, Gary Killops,<br />

Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery,<br />

Wayne Newton, Tracy Turlin, Kym Wolfe<br />

Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Impressions Printing<br />

© <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed circulation of 20,000<br />

issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed<br />

in the information, content and/or advertisements published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not<br />

necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes<br />

submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products<br />


Organic burgers &<br />

fries from The Root<br />

Cellar are a visual<br />

and savoury treat.<br />

Photo by Mariam<br />



Join us for a six course meal, celebrating Canadian cuisine,<br />

hosted by five chefs from across Canada<br />

Cocktails / Food Stations / Silent Auction – 5:00 PM<br />

Dinner Service & Program – 7:00 PM<br />

TICKETS $ 200 .00 each<br />

519.858.HOPE • bethanyshope.org<br />

Presenting Sponsor<br />

Gold Sponsors

Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#64</strong> | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

When I’m 64<br />


8<br />

Restaurants<br />

Tradition with a Twist<br />

Blackfriars Catering & Bistro<br />


10<br />

Rooted in the Community<br />

The Root Cellar Organic Restaurant<br />


14<br />

Road Trips<br />

Food, Drink, and History<br />

Something for Everyone in Buffalo<br />


18<br />

Travel<br />

Get Screeched In!<br />

Let Newfoundland Change You<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

22<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

27<br />

Beer<br />

Passion for Brewing<br />

Upper Thames Brewing Co. in Woodstock<br />


34<br />

Wine<br />

Cabernet Franc<br />

Is this Ontario’s Red Wine?<br />


36<br />

10<br />

22<br />

14<br />

47<br />

34<br />

38<br />

Spirits<br />

Cheers, Canada!<br />

Canadian Cocktails?<br />


38<br />

Various Musical Notes<br />

Lions and Lambs<br />

On the music scene this spring<br />


40<br />

The Classical Beat<br />

The Show Must Go On<br />

Stars are stepping up, and shining<br />


43<br />

Theatre<br />

Feeling the Cold?<br />

Here are some dramatic diversions<br />


45<br />

Recipes<br />

Ocean Wise 2<br />

Edited by Jill Mundy<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

47<br />

Books<br />

Slice Harvester<br />

By Colin Atrophy Hagendorf<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

52<br />

54<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Just Eat It!<br />



LONDON’S<br />

BEST NEW<br />


Featuring our seasonally created à la carte menu.<br />

Come & sample our new Spring Menu.<br />

519-430-6414<br />




162 Wortley Road, London ON N6C 3P7<br />

info@plantmatterkitchen.com<br />

519.660.3663<br />






8 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

When I’m 64<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


It’s hard to believe. No, I am not referring<br />

to another Trumpism. We are coming up<br />

on our tenth anniversary for <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

this summer. Where has the time gone?<br />

Every issue is a new adventure, and this is<br />

Number 64. As Paul McCartney wrote, in his<br />

youth, “Will you still need me, will you still<br />

feed me, when I’m sixty-four?” As Sir Paul has<br />

discovered, the answer is a definite yes, and<br />

we trust the same is true for us here.<br />

Keeping pace with<br />

culinary trends<br />

can seem simple<br />

compared to<br />

staying current<br />

technologically. When<br />

we launched the magazine, having a website<br />

had become important but Facebook was only<br />

beginning to open up to non-students and<br />

Twitter was just getting started. It was several<br />

years before <strong>Eatdrink</strong> jumped into social media.<br />

Today, it’s a critical aspect of our business.<br />

And that website? We launched a redesigned<br />

site a few years later, and I’m thrilled with our<br />

latest iteration of <strong>Eatdrink</strong> online. We launched<br />

our new site quietly, a few weeks ago, and I am<br />

confident we have a winner. Please check it out.<br />

You’ll find a ton of pleasant surprises, but here<br />

are some highlights:<br />

Responsive Design: Anticipating<br />

continual growth of smartphone usage, all<br />

content will scale seamlessly onto any device,<br />


for perfect resolution on desktops, laptops,<br />

tablets and phones.<br />

Readability: Elegant typography with a<br />

focus on readability creates an awesome user<br />

experience.<br />

Faster Loading, Easier Navigation: The<br />

slick user interface also loads faster, so stories<br />

open immediately.<br />

Easier Sharing: It’s a breeze to share<br />

stories that you love,<br />

no matter what social<br />

media platform you<br />

enjoy most.<br />

Related<br />

Content: When you<br />

read a story you’re<br />

interested in, suggestions for related content<br />

follow. For example, interested in recipes?<br />

You’ll find all of our cookbook reviews and<br />

recipes organized together.<br />

Improved Search: Looking for something<br />

you read but can’t recall all of the details? Our<br />

new Search function is brilliant. And fast.<br />

You also may notice a refreshed design on<br />

our printed pages in this issue. Feedback is<br />

greatly appreciated. We know that thousands<br />

of our loyal readers prefer to read the hard copy,<br />

and we’re committed to that for as long as you<br />

are, with 20,000 copies rolling out every other<br />

month. If you find us hard to find, you’ll see a<br />

beautifully organized list of pick-up locations on<br />

our website under the Magazine menu.<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Oops. I made an embarrass ing error<br />

in the last issue. We had<br />

a new ad from one of our<br />

favourite new restaurants,<br />

the charming SoLo on Main in<br />

Port Stanley. Somehow I reran the<br />

previous holiday ad.<br />

What our readers should have<br />

seen, and our online readers did see<br />

as soon as the error was brought to<br />

my attention, was this “Hand-crafted<br />

Indulgence” ad. Yes, it’s striking, and<br />

so is the restaurant. Chef Lauren<br />

Hand-crafted<br />

indulgence<br />

VanDixhoorn presents vibrant plates that are<br />

as delicious as they are beautiful.<br />

Restaurant & Bar<br />

226 658 0999<br />

soloportstanley.com<br />

You’ll be glad to know both<br />

the comfortable SoLo lounge and<br />

dining room are open Wednesday<br />

to Sunday for lunch and dinner.<br />

Walk-ins are welcome but if the<br />

weather is dodgy, be sure to call<br />

ahead at 226-658-0999.<br />

Here’s hoping the SoLo patio<br />

and porch are open before long too.<br />

Thanks for your patience, Lauren<br />

and Paula.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Congratulations to Ashley Cordeiro!<br />

Combining our regular Facebook<br />

draw with our annual London Wine<br />

& Food Show draw, we had a double<br />

prize package. In addition to the Lexus of<br />

London prize — detailing of her car and a<br />

Lexus to drive for three days while the work<br />

is being done! — Ashley won overnight<br />

accommodations and breakfast, lunch and<br />

dinner for two from Windermere Manor and<br />

Restaurant Ninety One. Enjoy, Ashley!<br />

There’s a new draw now open. Go to our<br />

#eatdrinkmag Facebook page and click on the<br />

link to our Lexus of London draw. Good luck!<br />

We’ll select a new winner on <strong>April</strong> 24, <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

I<br />

had the pleasure of meeting Chef Michael<br />

Smith at last year’s Bethanys Hope Foundation<br />

fundraiser, so was pleased to see he<br />

is helping this worthy cause once again.<br />

Coast to Coast: A Taste of Canada will take<br />

place at the London Convention<br />

Centre on <strong>April</strong><br />

27, <strong>2017</strong>. Chef Michael,<br />

along with four top chefs<br />

from across Canada, will<br />

celebrate Canada’s 150<br />

with a culinary adventure<br />

exploring the fieldto-fork<br />

movement.<br />

Cocktail hour features five “live-action” chef<br />

stations, including the always popular P.E.I.<br />

Oyster Bar with Chef Michael. An amazing<br />

six-course dinner will follow, with both live<br />

and silent auctions. www.bethanyshope.org<br />

London’s black-tie Tastings takes place<br />

May 4 at the London Hunt & Country<br />

Club. Enjoy “a journey for the senses”<br />

inspired by the McCormick Flavor<br />

Forecast® of emerging taste trends, paired with<br />

fabulous wines. This is a fundraiser for London<br />

Health Sciences Foundation’s Impact Fund.<br />

Providers of the exquisite food include<br />

Rick Peori from Old East Village’s All ’Bout<br />

Cheese, Chefs Scott Wesseling and Matt<br />

Rice from Black Trumpet, Chefs Erryn<br />

Shephard and Ben Sandwith from Grand<br />

Bend’s F.I.N.E. A<br />

Restaurant, Jess<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra<br />

and Chef Jeff Fortner from The River Room<br />

in Museum London, and Chef Eric Boyar<br />

from Sixthirtynine in Woodstock, and other<br />

notable contributors. www.lhsf.ca/tastings<br />

celebrating 122 years in stratford

10 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Restaurants<br />

Tradition with a Twist<br />

at Blackfriars Catering & Bistro in London<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


You don’t have to be in the food<br />

business to know that keeping<br />

a restaurant in operation can be<br />

particularly tricky. And even harder<br />

still when forces beyond your control suddenly<br />

make your location hard to, well, locate.<br />

When Blackfriars Bridge closed to vehicular<br />

traffic in 2013, it threw a wedge between<br />

Blackfriars Bistro and the clients who had<br />

relied on Ridout Street for easy transit to and<br />

from the restaurant. But while these sorts of<br />

barriers can be the harbingers of death for<br />

a business, Blackfriars Bistro owner, Betty<br />

Heydon, and her strong and caring team have<br />

proven that they have staying power.<br />

This February marked Blackfriars Bistro’s<br />

21st anniversary, and the little restaurant<br />

located at 46 Blackfriars St (just southwest<br />

of Oxford St. and Wharncliffe Rd.) is better<br />

than ever. Things are looking up for the<br />

neighbourhood. The other premises in the<br />

restaurant’s building are now fully rented, and<br />

a new loose-leaf tea shop called Teatcha has<br />

moved in across the street.<br />

“We just got busier and better, both with<br />

catering and the bistro,” Betty says of the<br />

past year. “The amount of support we’ve seen<br />

from dedicated clients and new clients is just<br />

overwhelming”<br />

For those who are discovering (and<br />

rediscovering) the bistro, putting the<br />

restaurant’s tastes and flavours into a category<br />

may prove to be easier said than done. What<br />

Betty describes as “tradition with a twist,” the<br />

Blackfriars taste is eclectic, ever evolving and<br />

uniquely attributable to the restaurant and<br />

the history of the people who work there.<br />

“My philosophy has always been that we first<br />

have a respect for tradition and then we go forward<br />

into the future,” Betty explains. “What that<br />

means is that you’ll always find the favourites<br />

that people have loved and come to expect from<br />

Blackfriars. Yet we’re constantly reinventing, to<br />

give people what’s new and innovative.”<br />

After 21 years in business, Blackfriars Catering<br />

& Bistro is a well-known landmark on the London culinary landscape

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 11<br />

“a sundried port soaked cranberry and sage<br />

cheesecake” will be making its way onto the<br />

spring menu.<br />

The Blackfriars menu changes seasonally,<br />

and the shape of each new iteration of the<br />

menu hinges on input from all Blackfriars<br />

We first have a respect<br />

for “ tradition and then we go<br />

forward into the future.<br />

— Betty Heydon<br />

”<br />

Handcrafted tables, purple walls and a large<br />

chalkboard menu personalize the warm interior<br />

Some of the items on the menu were<br />

inspired by Betty’s Italian grandmother, Nona<br />

Bridget, from Sault Ste. Marie. “We had a very<br />

matriarchal family of 10 daughters and two of<br />

them became nuns. When they came to visit,<br />

Nona would make steak and eggs for them —<br />

pan searing it really fast and flipping it. She<br />

didn’t know it, but she was making a beurre<br />

blanc, using white wine and butter. We, the<br />

children, would get to dip our crusty<br />

bread in the sauce. I’ll always remember<br />

that dish because it was such a special<br />

occasion when they came to visit.” (Nona<br />

Bridget used round steak: the Blackfriars’<br />

twist is to use sirloin instead.)<br />

And while that recipe holds special<br />

meaning for Betty, patrons have clear<br />

favourites too. Some of these include<br />

the banana rum and raisin bread<br />

pudding, served warm with caramel<br />

sauce and whipped cream, and the<br />

gourmet grilled three-cheese sandwich<br />

on multigrain, with spiced apple and<br />

onion, and served with a cup of soup. If<br />

you think those sound decadent, Betty<br />

has something else for you to consider.<br />

“Our savoury cheesecakes are definitely<br />

a signature dish. We have a Stilton<br />

cheesecake with grilled chicken on the<br />

lunch salad, and at night we serve it<br />

with prosciutto,” she says, adding that<br />

stakeholders, from the kitchen staff to the<br />

customers.“I like the direction to be clean,<br />

clear taste. Fusion, but not confusion —<br />

complexities and layers should always be<br />

traceable back to the ingredient,” she says,<br />

noting that the menu creation is a team<br />

process. “That’s always my goal, to be able to<br />

hear everybody’s voice and the customer’s<br />

voice in there too.”<br />

With the increasingly sunny weather, Betty<br />

and her husband will go in search of produce,<br />

meat and fine ingredients from local farms. She<br />

also plans to continue to grow and harvest some<br />

herbs and vegetables — like tomatoes, zucchini<br />

and kale — from her own home garden.<br />

Owner Betty Heydon with one of her own<br />

paintings — part of the restaurant’s decor and<br />

indicative of her artistic stamp on the bistro

12 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

One of the most wonderful aspects of the<br />

Blackfriars menu is that the menu serves as<br />

a jump-off point and clients are invited to<br />

further customize their vegan, vegetarian or<br />

meat selection.“We try to have something for<br />

everybody on the menu — but people can<br />

play off of that,” she says. “If someone were to<br />

say, ‘I see you have this selection, but I’m not<br />

feeling that tonight,’ we can go talk to the chef<br />

and give them another couple of choices.”<br />

The customizability and flexibility that the kitchen staff<br />

welcome has created a pseudo-secret menu, from which<br />

even past menu items can be revived.“Someone could ask<br />

for the Portuguese shrimp, which we haven’t had in 15<br />

years, and we’ll make it for you,” says Betty.<br />

This aspect of her business is one that Betty clearly takes<br />

pride in — and it extends to the catering side of the business,<br />

which is available for small groups as well as large functions,<br />

like weddings and celebrations. Offering personalized<br />

menu creation (Blackfriars doesn’t have a standard catering<br />

information package), Blackfriars wants to create the perfect,<br />

experience, tailored to each client. “I want you to just enjoy<br />

yourself (at your event) knowing everything will be well<br />

taken care of,” she says. “My lovely staff is truly professional.<br />

If they come into your home they will leave your home so<br />

clean that you wouldn’t know you had a party — and this is<br />

what we’re known for.”<br />

But if you’d prefer, you can always have your<br />

event on-site at the restaurant. The whole<br />

Blackfriars Bistro can be reserved for private<br />

functions, provided you have a minimum of 24<br />

guests on a weeknight, and 34 on a weekend.<br />

For those interested in pairing their dish<br />

with just the right drink, Blackfriars has an<br />

answer there, too. With a wide selection of<br />

craft brewed beer, consignment wine and a<br />

bring-your-own-bottle licence (corkage fee of<br />

$15), you’re sure to find the right beverage to<br />

complement your meal.<br />

“I always want to give a salute to all of those<br />

people who are making beer,” Betty says. “We started about<br />

12 years ago with small batch breweries, like Stonehammer<br />

[formerly F&M Brewery] and Railway City. These people are<br />

all just really great people.”<br />

But all “food and drink” aside, there is something special<br />

about Blackfriars that goes a step beyond. When Betty, an<br />

arts graduate, first decided to open the eatery, she and her<br />

husband had “nothing” — but a vision of bringing people<br />

together.<br />

1 Crème Brûlée French Toast with fruit and warm syrup;<br />

2 Wild-caught Coho Salmon with grilled shrimp served over an Asian<br />

vegetable slaw;<br />

3 Blackfriars Soup & Sandwich: gourmet grilled three cheese with spiced<br />

apple on house-made multigrain with the soup of the day, here a fire<br />

roasted tomato basil soup & crispy kale;<br />

4 Wheat-less Brownie with Grand Marnier mousse and fresh berries;

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The restaurant’s purple walls are<br />

adorned with large works of art,<br />

featuring conversation-provoking<br />

scenes that Betty herself has painted.<br />

The square bistro tables are topped<br />

with mosaics that she and her husband<br />

hand-built. And even as she sits, being<br />

interviewed for this article, Betty’s<br />

phone continually rings with patrons<br />

looking to reserve tables for later in<br />

the day —and she fields each one with<br />

warmth and mostly on a first name basis.<br />

“Growing up in an Italian household,<br />

food was where we talked and where we<br />

met and worked together. We would sit at<br />

a counter from the youngest to the oldest,<br />

banging out<br />

gnocchi to<br />

put in the<br />

freezer for<br />

the whole<br />

family.<br />

You always<br />

had that<br />

conversation<br />

and the<br />

Blackfriars<br />

Catering<br />

competes with<br />

the best in the<br />

city. Here are<br />

farm-fresh<br />

salads for a<br />

wedding.<br />

Betty Heydon’s writes<br />

out the menus — and<br />

the chalkboard<br />

specials — with an<br />

artistic hand.<br />


Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

rhetoric and<br />

it was a kind<br />

of bonding<br />

that would be<br />

hard to take<br />

place without<br />

food.”<br />

“I’ve always<br />

worked in this industry because it’s<br />

a good honest way to connect. It’s just what<br />

you do — you genuinely take an interest in<br />

the people that you take care of. I believe all<br />

people deserve to eat, and to eat well.”<br />

Blackfriars Catering & Bistro<br />

46 Blackfriars Street. London<br />

519-667-4930<br />

www.blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

lunch: monday to friday 11:30–2:30<br />

dinner: monday to saturday 5:00–10:00<br />

brunch: sunday 11:00–2:00<br />

TANYA CHOPP is a storyteller and marketing<br />

professional. Over the past decade, she has enjoyed<br />

crafting and amplifying meaningful communications<br />

across the arts, culture, entertainment, health, wellness,<br />

and technology industries.<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Contest ends <strong>April</strong> 24, <strong>2017</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Ashley Cordeiro,<br />

winner of our Jan/Feb Draw!

14 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Restaurants<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Rooted in the Community<br />

The Root Cellar Organic Cafe, in London's Old East Village<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY | Photography by MARIAM WALIJI<br />

Delve into the emerging<br />

food and cultural district<br />

in London’s historic Old<br />

East Village. Stop into The<br />

Root Cellar Organic Restaurant,<br />

with its fresh, from-scratch organic<br />

offerings, artistic interior and<br />

friendly workers. Since its inception<br />

in July of 2012 as a small 20-seat<br />

café, The Root Cellar has evolved<br />

into a 70-seat destination café/pub<br />

and restaurant.<br />

On the second floor there is a<br />

new special events venue called<br />

Taproot. With a reclaimed aesthetic,<br />

carpentry by Arlen Galloway and<br />

metalwork by Wojchiech Sikorski<br />

(the craftsmen behind The Root<br />

Cellar’s artistry), the LCBO-licensed<br />

space with a 55-person capacity has<br />

been designed for special events and is also<br />

available for rent.<br />

The restaurant’s interior is artful and<br />

functional with many comfortable seating<br />

options that add to the eclecticism of<br />

The core of The Root Cellar’s creative, co-operative structure<br />

includes, from the left, Mariam Waliji, Ellie Cook, Melissa Harland,<br />

Aaron Lawrence, Paul Harding and Jeff Pastorius.<br />

the space. Monthly local art exhibits and<br />

decorative features like the large sheet-metal<br />

flowers suspended above the bar reflect the<br />

café’s artisan sensibility.<br />

The Root Cellar is in transition to a workerowned<br />

co-operative business structure.<br />

Known as the Forest City Worker<br />

Co-operative and closely aligned with On<br />

the Move Organics (OTMO) and London<br />

Brewing Co-operative (LBC), members find<br />

satisfaction in the community that they<br />

live in and love, while serving up the best<br />

organic products from the local food shed<br />

(food consumed within 100 miles of where<br />

it was produced). Founding members are<br />

Jeff Pastorius (also founding partner of<br />

OTMO), Aaron Lawrence, Joel Pastorius,<br />

and restaurant manager Ellie Cook. What<br />

they advocate goes way beyond local and<br />

organic eating and drinking.<br />

The Root Cellar’s earthy Dundas Street signage and<br />

facade signals the restaurant’s organic ethos.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The business embraces the principles of<br />

the Slow Food movement, the non-profit<br />

educational organization dedicated to<br />

supporting and celebrating regional culinary<br />

identities, while encompassing the purity of<br />

the organic movement. The concept for The<br />

Root Cellar originated from the ambition<br />

to bring the community together with<br />

area organic farmers and producers as an<br />

outgrowth of OTMO, the progenitor, supplier<br />

and sister organization that connects people<br />

to local certified organic food producers. This<br />

is accomplished through its communitysupported<br />

agriculture home delivery service<br />

and its organic green grocer at the Farmers’ &<br />

Artisans’ Market at Western Fair<br />

on Saturdays.<br />

There is also an organic juice<br />

and smoothie bar known as the<br />

Root Cellar Market Kitchen on<br />

the second floor of the market.<br />

Customers can choose from a<br />

menu of nutritious, energizing,<br />

detoxifying, or just plain<br />

refreshing drinks. The staff<br />

concoct fresh, healthful creations<br />

every weekend to keep things<br />

interesting. Organic cold-pressed<br />

juices and bakery products are also<br />

available.<br />

Chef Paul Harding’s former TOOK (The<br />

Only on King), with its enthusiastic support<br />

of local farmers and producers, embodied the<br />

farm-to-table philosophy. When TOOK ceased<br />

operations Harding, who is credited with<br />

helping to revolutionize the local restaurant<br />

scene with farm-to-table ideals, became the<br />

standout choice for Executive Chef, to give<br />

The Root Cellar’s kitchen some recalibrating.<br />

Sous chef Hunter Guidon and junior sous chef<br />

Michael Schart are pivotal members of the<br />

energetic culinary team who have helped to<br />

Taproot, in the top photo, is The Root Cellar’s new secondfloor<br />

event space. Above is the restaurant’s eclectic main<br />

floor bar and main dining room. Below are two photos<br />

showing opposite views through the restaurant’s brick<br />

archway through the two dining areas.<br />

fine-tune the already successful operation and<br />

increase the dinner offerings.<br />

The repertoire of from-scratch menu<br />

offerings with ever-changing specials are all<br />

organic (with minor exceptions), procured<br />

from the local farming community. All of the<br />

produce and ingredients in the restaurant’s

16 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

dishes are certified organic, with 80% local in<br />

season. The challenge is how to compete with<br />

less expensive, imported foods and how to<br />

compensate organic farmers with a fair price<br />

yet keep menu offerings accessible to patrons.<br />

Harding has added more protein choices<br />

(wild-caught fish, organic grass-fed beef<br />

steak, and free-range organic poultry) while<br />

keeping lots of plant-powered dishes on the<br />

menu. Wild-caught Manitoulin whitefish and<br />

potato cake with kimchi, bacon and Gingerich<br />

Farms poached certified-organic egg is on<br />

the current dinner menu. The ploughshares<br />

board is exceptional and is designed for both<br />

vegans and carnivores — there are so many<br />

good components that it will require your<br />

undivided attention. House-made pickle coins<br />

are deep-fried in London Brewing Co-op beer<br />

batter and are served with a curried BBQ<br />

sauce. We are long-time fans of the locallysourced<br />

Berkshire pork sausages and the freerange,<br />

pasture-raised water buffalo burger<br />

recommended by long-time worker Kim<br />

Miller. Check out the sourcing blackboard in<br />

the dining room to find out which ingredients<br />

are sourced from each farm or producer.<br />

There is ethically-sourced and wildcrafted<br />

tea. Coffee beans are organic and either<br />

Fairtrade certified or bought directly from<br />

the growers and roasted locally by Patrick’s<br />

Beans. Milk, cream, sugar — it’s all organic.<br />

The house-made baked goods are made from<br />

the historic Arva Flour Mill’s organic grains<br />

and flours.<br />

The wine list features VQA wines from<br />

Pelee Island Winery, Southbrook Vineyards<br />

(certified organic), and Frogpond Farms<br />

Organic Winery. Our server, Raven Brown<br />

(former TOOK manager) tells us that the<br />

list will soon be expanded to add more wine<br />

4<br />

5<br />

1 Two Poached Eggs rest atop slices of Field Gate<br />

Organic sliced ham, roasted heirloom squash and a<br />

crisp bed of kale, topped with Hollandaise and housemade<br />

hot sauce, served with roasted potatoes;<br />

2 Manitoulin Whitefish Cake on a bed of sweet potato<br />

purée, topped with crisp greens, with kimchi aioli;<br />

3 Patatas Bravas with crispy potato, smoked pepper<br />

sauce, pickled red peppers and a drizzle of vegan<br />

garlic aioli<br />

4 Kamut Rotini pasta baked with duck confit, spicy<br />

tomato sauce and a mix of local cheese, topped with a<br />

poached egg;<br />

5 Peanut Butter and Chocolate Tart, with chocolate<br />

filling on a peanut butter and rice flour crust, finished<br />

with a garnish of honey caramel popcorn, paired with<br />

a Tolpuddle Porter from the London Beer Co-op.

House-made<br />

Potato Gnocchi in<br />

a bed of tomato,<br />

Passmore<br />

sausage and<br />

collard greens<br />

ragu, topped<br />

with shaved aged<br />

gouda.<br />



diversity from Ontario. There is a small<br />

curated cocktail menu that has just launched.<br />

Think matcha, ginger Booch, basil, and<br />

Junction 56 gin.<br />

To be a great restaurant, you have to provide<br />

an exceptional experience. Food enthusiasts<br />

aren’t just going out to dine any more,<br />

they’re looking to have a great encounter. The<br />

Root Cellar excels as a hub for community creativity,<br />

innovation and food-focused special<br />

events. Be sure to keep an eye out for cooking<br />

classes, workshops, community dinners, and<br />

collaborative efforts. The knowledgeable workers<br />

invite you to discover what it means to be<br />

rooted in your community, a local economy<br />

and a local food system.<br />

The Root Cellar Organic Café<br />

623 Dundas Street, London<br />

519-675-9995<br />

www.rootcellarorganic.ca<br />

monday–friday: 11am–10pm<br />

saturday: 9am–10pm<br />

sunday: closed<br />

Swords to<br />

Ploughshares<br />

Board: local<br />

artisanal cheeses<br />

& charcuterie,<br />

cured duck,<br />

spiced cashews,<br />

crostini, housemade<br />

pickles,<br />

seasonal veg &<br />

crudités, served<br />

with house-made<br />

dips.<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer<br />

at Large.<br />

FRI <strong>April</strong> 21 7 to 9:30 p.m.<br />

SAT <strong>April</strong> 22 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />

SUN <strong>April</strong> 23 noon to 5 p.m.<br />

Booklets with maps are available at<br />

Museum London & Library Branches<br />

or online at<br />

www.londonstudiotour.ca<br />

Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743<br />

55 George Street<br />

Stratford, Ontario<br />

tel. 519.272.2828<br />

See more Easter<br />

treats online at<br />

chocolatebarrs.com<br />

Holiday hours:<br />

Open evenings ’til<br />

8 pm all Easter<br />

week long. Good<br />

Friday: closed.<br />

Open Easter Sat.<br />

from 8am to 6pm.

18 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />


Road Trips<br />

Food, Drink, & History<br />

There’s something for everyone in Buffalo<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Story and photography by WAYNE NEWTON<br />

I’m craving Cheerios.<br />

The Buffalo mill which produces<br />

the popular breakfast cereal is<br />

close to my hotel, and the smell<br />

from it is locked in as I begin to explore<br />

one of America’s most surprising cities.<br />

Cheerios, the ready-to-eat cereal<br />

originally called CheeriOats until a<br />

copyright fight got in the way, have been<br />

made here since 1941, when the city’s<br />

waterfront was dominated by rows of<br />

high rise grain elevators, silos, and mills.<br />

Buffalo was North America’s most<br />

important grain handling hub, until<br />

construction of first the Welland Canal<br />

and then the St. Lawrence Seaway<br />

changed the rules.<br />

Today Buffalo’s collection of grain<br />

The Connecting Terminal grain silo bursts onto the Buffalo skyline<br />

nightly with an illumination art show that flows from one colorful<br />

scene to the next.<br />

silos and elevators has mostly been silenced,<br />

except for the chatter of passionate history<br />

buffs and excited tourists like me. Silo City,<br />

located a 10-minute drive from downtown<br />

on Childs Street, is one of Buffalo’s — if<br />

not the continent’s — most unusual tourist<br />

attractions. Through Explore Buffalo, visitors<br />

can travel around the complex of 10-storey<br />

concrete towers by kayak, on a ground tour, or<br />

vertically.<br />

While most opt for the ground tour,<br />

content to look up from inside and out at the<br />

massive industrial structures built 100 years<br />

ago, the fittest tourists and those with no fear<br />

of heights or qualms about climbing narrow<br />

ladders can join a tour to the top.<br />

In addition to tours paying homage to<br />

the industrial legacy of the towers, Silo City<br />

is also being repurposed as a performance<br />

space for theatre, summertime flea market, as<br />

well as a craft beer and food truck festival in<br />

September.<br />

The former Buffalo post office was slated for demolition.<br />

It’s now a community college and featured in walking<br />

tours of downtown architecture.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 19<br />




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DOWN PAYMENT $5,410*<br />



$<br />

3,000^<br />


$<br />

2,000^<br />

<strong>2017</strong> NX 200t F SPORT<br />


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lexusoflondon.com<br />


1065 Wharncliffe Road South (519) 680-1900<br />

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350 ($2,000 on suffixes G & H), <strong>2017</strong> Lexus NX 200t ($3,500 on suffix F; $3,000 on suffixes G & H), <strong>2017</strong> Lexus IS 200t ($3,000 on suffix F), <strong>2017</strong> Lexus IS 300 ($2,500 on suffixes F & G), <strong>2017</strong> Lexus IS 350 ($2,500<br />

on suffixes G & H). F SPORT credits will be deducted from the negotiated purchase/lease price after taxes. *Lease offers provided through Lexus Financial Services, on approved credit. *Representative lease example based<br />

on a <strong>2017</strong> IS 200t sfx ‘F’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $47,623. Bi-weekly lease payment is $209 (includes $3,000 F SPORT Credit) with $5,150 down payment or equivalent<br />

trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception. Total of 86 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $22,844. *Representative lease example<br />

based on a <strong>2017</strong> NX 200t sfx ‘F’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $52,173. Bi-weekly lease payment is $239 (includes $3,500 F SPORT Credit) with $5,410 down payment or<br />

equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception. Total of 86 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $25,648. *Representative lease<br />

example based on a <strong>2017</strong> RX 350 sfx ‘G’ on a 39 month term at an annual rate of 1.9% and Complete Lexus Price of $67,273. Bi-weekly lease payment is $339 (includes $2,000 F SPORT Credit) with $5,410 down<br />

payment or equivalent trade in, $0 security deposit and first bi-weekly lease payment due at lease inception. Total of 86 bi-weekly lease payments required during the lease term. Total lease obligation is $34,089. 52,000<br />

kilometre allowance; charge of $0.20/km for excess kilometres. Complete Lexus Price includes freight/PDI ($2,045), Dealer fees, EHF Tires ($17.75), EHF Filters ($1), A/C charge ($100), and OMVIC Fee ($10). Taxes,<br />

license, registration (if applicable) and insurance are extra. Lexus Dealers are free to set their own prices. Limited time offers only apply to retail customers at participating Lexus Dealers. Dealer order/trade may be required<br />

(but may not be available in certain circumstances). Offers are subject to change or cancellation without notice. Offers expire at month’s end unless extended or revised. See your Lexus Dealer for complete details.

20 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Of course there’s more to discover in<br />

Buffalo than breakfast cereal and silos. Its<br />

downtown, best explored through organized<br />

and informative walking tours, is home<br />

to several spectacular examples of various<br />

architectural styles. These include the old post<br />

office, once slated for demolition and now a<br />

college campus. It’s a 1901 structure made of<br />

granite and featuring a 244-foot tower, handcarved<br />

gargoyles and animals, and a sky-lit,<br />

six-storey atrium.<br />

Inside, second-year Erie Community<br />

College culinary students operate a restaurant<br />

open to the public called the E.M. Statler, in<br />

honour of a famous Buffalo hotel owner.<br />

The Ellicott Square Building, which was<br />

the world’s largest office building when it was<br />

erected in 1895, features a grey terracotta<br />

exterior and interior courtyard featured in the<br />

Larry Mruk, a docent with Explore Buffalo, adopts an<br />

Irish persona in homage to the thousands of mostly Irish<br />

immigrant workers who once worked in the grain elevators<br />

on Buffalo’s waterfront.<br />

movie The Natural. For those who wonder,<br />

those are not Nazi swastikas comprising part<br />

of the tile floor design — they are symbols of<br />

luck, which pre-date the German fascists and<br />

are the reverse of the Nazi symbol.<br />

A must-do walking tour, entitled Masters of<br />

American Architecture, includes stops at two<br />

of Buffalo’s many impressive churches: the<br />

curiously-shaped St. Paul’s Episcopal Cathedral,<br />

which is tucked onto one of downtown<br />

Buffalo’s many triangular lots, and St. Joseph’s<br />

Roman Catholic Cathedral, which features a<br />

“Strength, Pride, Ambition” are words to live by in<br />

both the tap room of Big Ditch Brewing Company<br />

and in the city of Buffalo.<br />

Museum owner Mike Kleba is passionate about Buffalo’s<br />

automotive manufacturing history, which includes Pierce<br />

Arrow cars.<br />

43-bell carillon and 3,627-pipe organ.<br />

Such architectural gems were possible at<br />

the turn of the 20th century because<br />

Buffalo was the eighth largest city in<br />

the U.S. at the time and its citizens had<br />

the resources to hire the best architects<br />

and craftsman.<br />

No architect’s work in Buffalo is<br />

more famous than that of Frank Lloyd<br />

Wright. Many already know about the<br />

Martin House, a 15,000-square-foot<br />

brick-and-wood home in the city’s<br />

Parkside neighbourhood. Built during<br />

1903-1905, it’s considered one of<br />

Wright’s finest works from his Prairie<br />

House period.<br />

Less well known is a Frank Lloyd<br />

Wright designed gasoline station, which<br />

has been built from the original plans<br />

inside the Buffalo Transportation-<br />

Pierce Arrow Museum.<br />

Beautiful to behold, the filling station<br />

had many practical problems, including<br />

a waiting room fireplace located underneath a<br />

rooftop gasoline storage tank. Still, the reason

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 21<br />

A flight of craft beer from Resurgence Brewing Company includes<br />

Loganberry Wit, Autumn Saison, Vanilla Pumpkin, and Sponge<br />

Candy Stout.<br />

Ahi tuna salad at the AK Cafe features tuna seared rare with<br />

cucumber noodles, red peppers and black olives.<br />

(716) Food & Sport provides a superior experience for sports fans,<br />

with big screens, plenty of taps and hearty pub fare.<br />

the station was never built during Wright’s<br />

lifetime was that the architectural fee he<br />

demanded was too steep.<br />

Peckish after hours of exploring, wise visitors<br />

check out the huge Buffalo craft beer scene.<br />

Among the standout breweries with food (but<br />

no Cheerios) are Big Ditch downtown at<br />

55 East Huron St., Resurgence Brewing<br />

at 1250 Niagara, and Thin Man in trendy<br />

Elmwood Village.<br />

Choose one — or make time for all —<br />

and raise a glass to a remarkable city.<br />

Learn More<br />

Visitor information:<br />

visitbuffaloniagara.com<br />

Silo City and downtown walking tours:<br />

explorebuffalo.org<br />

Martin House Complex:<br />

darwinmartinhouse.org<br />

Buffalo Transportation-Pierce Arrow<br />

Museum: pierce-arrow.com<br />

Buffalo Food Festivals<br />

Taste of Buffalo, held annually during<br />

the second weekend of July<br />

National Buffalo Wing Festival, held<br />

annually on Labour Day Weekend.<br />

Additional Dine & Drink<br />

Spots<br />

Anchor Bar, 1047 Main St., is where<br />

Buffalo wings got their start as a latenight<br />

snack. The rest is history.<br />

(716) Food & Sport, 7 Scott St., is a<br />

two-storey sports bar featuring burgers<br />

and beer near KeyBank Centre, home<br />

of the NHL Buffalo Sabres.<br />

Gene McCarthy’s, 73 Hamburg<br />

St. A former dive bar in the Old First<br />

Ward, it’s where working men from the<br />

grain elevators would come to wet their<br />

whistles after work. Famous now for<br />

its Old First Ward craft brewery and<br />

Friday fish fry.<br />

Five Points Bakery, 44 Brayton<br />

St. A farm-to-table café famous for its<br />

toast, including apple cider with triple<br />

cream brie.<br />

AK Cafe, Albright-Knox Art Gallery,<br />

1285 Elmwood Ave. Located in a gallery<br />

famous for its Andy Warhols and<br />

Jackson Pollocks, the gallery restaurant<br />

is noted for its view of a sculpture<br />

garden, and for fresh soups, salads and<br />

sandwiches. Highly recommended is<br />

the ahi tuna salad ($14 US).<br />

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London<br />

who enjoys writing about beer and travel.

22 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Travel<br />

Get Screeched In!<br />

Let Newfoundland change you<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Story and Photography by KYM WOLFE<br />

Having met many a Newfoundlander<br />

over the years, I’ve long had an<br />

interest in visiting “The Rock.” I<br />

envisioned myself immersed in<br />

a warm and friendly culture, drinking in<br />

amazing scenery and colourful fishing villages,<br />

and experiencing conversation steeped in<br />

a charming but sometimes indecipherable<br />

accent. This past summer I was finally able<br />

to make my way to Canada’s eastern-most<br />

province, and I was not disappointed.<br />

If a trip to Newfoundland is on your bucket<br />

list, <strong>2017</strong> might be an ideal year to go. To<br />

celebrate Canada’s 150th anniversary visitors<br />

to all national parks and historic sites will<br />

enjoy free admission, and the province has a<br />

wealth of them, as well as other interesting<br />

things to see and do.<br />

We started our adventure in Gros Morne<br />

National Park, sampling the rugged beauty<br />

and diverse terrain of Newfoundland’s<br />

west coast. Each day of hiking revealed<br />

breathtaking vistas, and based on the<br />

different types of rocks that we saw there<br />

I suspect that this part of Canada must<br />

be a geologist’s dream. The brown, barren<br />

Tablelands is one of the few places where a<br />

large stretch of the earth’s mantle has been<br />

The spectacular geography of Gros Morne<br />

National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,<br />

includes fjords and towering mountains.<br />

Parks Canada has placed pairs of red chairs around<br />

Gros Morne, for visitors to enjoy some of the<br />

country’s prime vistas. These are at Red Point.<br />

pushed to the surface (described as “a slice<br />

of ancient ocean floor’). Hike through and<br />

eventually you arrive at Old Man Cove and<br />

the lush Green Gardens along the Gulf of St.<br />

Lawrence, which are full of volcanic rock.<br />

Gros Morne offered a different experience<br />

every day. We hiked through bog land and took<br />

the boat tour in Western Brook Pond (a former<br />

fiord carved by glaciers out of the massive<br />

rock cliffs — absolutely gorgeous); to the base<br />

of Gros Morne mountain (a challenging trail<br />

that rewarded us with spectacular<br />

views); around Lobster Cove<br />

Lighthouse and into the family<br />

home of the former lighthouse<br />

keeper; to Bakers Brook Falls<br />

(a fairly easy trail that leads to<br />

picturesque waterfalls); and one<br />

evening we watched the sunset<br />

from Green Point. It became a bit<br />

of a game to find the red chairs<br />

that Parks Canada has placed<br />

strategically at points where you<br />

can have a seat and enjoy the<br />

panorama.<br />

We were warned not to drive<br />

between dusk and dawn because of

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

You never know who — or what — you might meet on<br />

the hiking trail. The author was surprised by this moose.<br />

the danger posed by moose, but only saw one,<br />

and that one not on the road. When a planned<br />

afternoon of kayaking at Norris Point was<br />

cancelled due to choppy water we decided to<br />

climb a hill that promised scenic views. Signage<br />

warned that there was an aggressive moose on<br />

the trail, but locals told us that the animal was<br />

simply responding to a tourist who invaded its<br />

space while trying to take a selfie with it. “If<br />

you see it, just quietly back up and walk away,”<br />

they advised. As we rounded a bend we were<br />

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24 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

treated to an up-close rear-view of the massive<br />

animal. I managed to snap a picture of it before<br />

backtracking…quickly and quietly. Our only<br />

other encounter with moose was at meal time;<br />

you can find moose burger on most menus.<br />

Another highlight of our time in Gros<br />

Morne was being “screeched in” at a pub<br />

kitchen party in Rocky Harbour. We dutifully<br />

kissed the cod, danced a jig, played a musical<br />

instrument (mine was an “ugly stick’), sang<br />

a song, recited a pledge including a promise<br />

to “honour and respect me codfadders<br />

and me codmudders,” and downed a shot<br />

of Screech (40% proof rum). We walked<br />

back to our hostel singing east coast songs<br />

and enjoying our new status as Honorary<br />

Newfoundlanders.<br />

We were lucky enough to head out of town<br />

just ahead of the rain clouds, making our way<br />

to the northern coast’s New World Island<br />

and the picturesque village of Twillingate. On<br />

our first night we enjoyed fresh lobster and<br />

entertainment at the NWI Twillingate Dinner<br />

Theatre. It is run by a talented and hilarious<br />

ABOVE: Auk Island Winery in Twillingate produces wines<br />

made from local wild berries.<br />

LEFT: Some hiking trails, like this one near Twillingate,<br />

are more challenging than others.<br />

BELOW: House construction on Battery Hill<br />

group of men and women who both prepare the<br />

meal and perform on stage. The evening was<br />

filled with songs, skits, jokes and humourous<br />

stories. Over the next two days we enjoyed<br />

more hiking, more spectacular views, a shed<br />

party (very much like a kitchen party, but held<br />

in a garage), and our first glimpse of an iceberg.<br />

Before leaving Twillingate we stopped for<br />

a tour and tasting at Auk Island, one of two<br />

Newfoundland wineries that produce unique<br />

wines crafted with wild berries, locally grown<br />

fruits, and some with iceberg water. We loved<br />

Auk Island’s eye-catching labels and clever<br />

names, from Moose Joose to 3 Sheets to the<br />

Wind. On our way to St. John’s we stopped at<br />

Rodrigues Winery and Distillery in Whitbourne<br />

and sampled some award-winning wines. As<br />

Newfoundland’s only commercial distillery,<br />

Rodrigues also produces liqueurs, schnapps,<br />

brandies and vodka. It’s in a former hospital,<br />

and many of the rooms, like the nursery, still<br />

have the original names on the doors.<br />

By the time we got to St. John’s, we had<br />

switched our mind-set from trekker to<br />

“townie.” We took in tourist<br />

staples like Signal Hill and Cape<br />

Spear (the most eastern place in<br />

North America), and walked past<br />

colourful “jelly-bean” rowhouses<br />

on our way to the shops on<br />

Duckworth and Water Streets. We<br />

visited Battery Hill and wondered<br />

at the homes built into the rocks<br />

where everything — from building<br />

materials to appliances — would<br />

have had to be hand-bombed.<br />

We drove a little of the Irish<br />

Loop when we went to Bay Bulls for<br />

Gatherall’s puffin and whale watch<br />

boat tour. The fog was too thick to<br />

see any whales but we enjoyed the

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Opening Soon!<br />

A kitchen party at the QuidiVidi brewery.<br />

playful puffins, and the sheer volume of birds on<br />

Baccalieu Island was mind-boggling.<br />

The Rooms, which houses the provincial<br />

museum, art gallery and archives, is well<br />

worth a visit. The exhibit about WWI and its<br />

impact on Newfoundland, particularly the battle<br />

of Beaumont-Hamel, was heart-wrenching.<br />

We discovered the Newman Wine Vaults<br />

quite by accident when we decided to take the<br />

hop-on/hop-off trolley (just $5 for a day pass).<br />

One of the oldest structures in St. John’s,<br />

the massive brick and stone wine cellars were<br />

built to age port wine — possibly the only<br />

place outside of Portugal that has ever done<br />

so. We enjoyed the tour and the building so<br />

much, we returned the next night to see a play<br />

performed there by the Shakespeare by the<br />

Sea Festival theatre group.<br />

Our entry fee to the wine vaults also got us<br />

into the Commissariat, which was built in the<br />

early 1800s as the home of the supply officer<br />

for the British military. The clever exhibits<br />

in the carriage house give you a good grasp<br />

of Newfoundland’s back story as one of the<br />

first independent dominions in the British<br />

Empire, and of the roots of the fierce pride<br />

that Newfoundlanders have in their history<br />

and heritage.<br />

There are so many good restaurants in St.<br />

John’s, it is impossible to try them all. We<br />

particularly enjoyed the Bernard & Stanley<br />

Gastropub on Duckworth Street which bills<br />

itself as the spot for rustic comfort food, and<br />

the Yellow Belly Brewery and Public House<br />

at the foot of George Street. The Yellow Belly<br />

is located in a heritage building, and bills the<br />

basement UnderBelly as one of the oldest rooms<br />

in Canada, and St. John’s only speakeasy.<br />

We happened to be in St. John’s during the<br />

George Street Festival. For six nights the twoblock<br />

street becomes a concert venue and one<br />

big street party. We found a place to sit with<br />

a great view of the stage on the night that the<br />

Trews and Our Lady Peace were performing,<br />

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LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

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432 Richmond Street<br />

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a 3-course prix fixe<br />

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www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

481 Richmond St., London<br />

519.432.4092<br />

dine@garlicsoflondon.com<br />

www.garlicsoflondon.com<br />

Yellow Belly Brewery and Public House at the foot of<br />

George Street.<br />

and the weather was perfect for an outdoor<br />

evening concert. Outside of the festival, this is<br />

a great street to visit anytime, as it is packed<br />

with side-by-side pubs, bars and restaurants<br />

where you can enjoy live music every night.<br />

We also enjoyed live music at our last<br />

kitchen party before leaving Newfoundland,<br />

which took place at the QuidiVidi brewery.<br />

We had enjoyed a tour and tasting earlier in<br />

the day, as well as a visit to the neighbouring<br />

Quidi Vidi Village Plantation. The Plantation<br />

houses artisan studios where you can see<br />

artists at work creating a range of handmade<br />

items, from woodcut prints and textiles<br />

to unique jewellery made with Viking<br />

wireknitting.<br />

Far too soon we were heading to Argentia to<br />

catch the ferry back to Nova Scotia. We made<br />

a quick side trip to Cupids, the site of the first<br />

English settlement in Canada dating back to<br />

1610. Our tour guide was quite enthusiastic<br />

about the different artefacts that she had been<br />

involved in unearthing at the archeological dig.<br />

Overall we felt that same enthusiasm<br />

and friendliness wherever we went in<br />

Newfoundland. It is a province that has<br />

a unique sense of place and culture, and<br />

it was lovely to immerse myself in it for a<br />

short time. I would definitely visit again ...<br />

although, sadly, I don’t think I’ll make it back<br />

in <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

KYM WOLFE is a London-based freelance writer who<br />

is always up for a road trip. Visit her online at www.<br />


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 27<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

In <strong>March</strong>, local restaurants will be bringing<br />

their culinary creativity to a celebration of<br />

Canada, offering a secret menu item that<br />

explores quintessential Canadian flavours,<br />

ingredients, and storytelling through food. Try<br />

these special culinary twists at The Black Walnut<br />

Bakery Cafe, The Boombox Bakeshop, Fancy Tarts,<br />

Olive R. Twists, Plant Matter Kitchen, Shelly’s Tap<br />

and Grill, Smoke’s Poutinerie and Twisted Toque.<br />

In London’s charming Wortley Village, Pure Bon: A<br />

Food Shop — with its delicious chef-prepared takehome<br />

meals and gourmet kitchen items — closed<br />

for repairs after a flood caused extensive damage<br />

before the shop could even celebrate an official<br />

grand opening. Happily, the business has re-opened<br />

to rave reviews. www.purebon.ca<br />

Blu Duby North, located at 745 Fanshawe Park<br />

Road, just west of Wonderland, is now open for<br />

lunch and dinner. The restaurant borrows much<br />

of what has made the original Blu Duby, located<br />

within the Hotel Metro in Downtown London, such a<br />

popular success. www.bluduby.ca<br />

Latino Flavours Restaurant has opened in the<br />

premises formerly occupied by BEGOS at 129<br />

Dundas Street. The restaurant features pupusas,<br />

tacos, arepas and chimichangas. Try the pineapple<br />

cobbler and coconut flan.<br />

The Black Trumpet courtyard garden may be<br />

the most tranquil dining location in London.<br />

Chef Scott Wessling’s new spring menus have a<br />

contemporary take on iconic classics, drawing<br />

from local seasonal ingredients. New menus<br />

also include both vegan and vegetarian features.<br />

www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

One of our favourite food trailers is the organic,<br />

Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano in the parking lot<br />

of Lyn-Dys Health Food at 1016 Oxford St. E. Ivan<br />

Santana-Barnes has returned with some fresh<br />

ideas after taking a brief winter break for some<br />

culinary inspiration in Guadalajara, Mexico.<br />

We are hearing positive reports about The Take Out<br />

Fish & Chips London, at 1635 Oxford St. E. at Second<br />

St. London does love its fish ‘n’ chips. Kipps Lane<br />

Fish & Chips, established in 1972, is hopping, and<br />

has added lunch service on Fridays and Saturdays.<br />

New customers are welcomed and encouraged, but<br />

the cozy little restaurant and take-away shop teems<br />

with happy regulars. www.kippslanefish.com<br />

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra of North Moore Catering<br />

and The River Room welcomed uber chef Andrew<br />

Wolwowicsz to the team last fall. This talented duo<br />

are partnering in a new and exciting project. Craft<br />

Farmacy will open in the former Custom Cuisine<br />

Catering on Wharncliffe Rd. this spring.<br />

Twisted Toque Social Grill, a Canadian-themed<br />

restaurant designed as the prototype for a national<br />

chain, has opened at 186 King St. next door to the<br />

popular King’s Inn Diner. www.twistedtoque.com<br />

Thomas Waite of In Home Chef opened Spruce on<br />

Wellington at the end of January, in the premises<br />

formerly occupied by Willie’s Café. Waite promises that<br />

the 32-seat restaurant (with 22 more on the back patio<br />

in season) will provide patrons with an innovative<br />

dining experience “unlike anything that London has

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

142 fullarton at richmond<br />

Discover<br />

Our New<br />


MENU!<br />

Details online<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Always Closed Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

seen before.” Waite and Spruce’s chef de cuisine Troy<br />

Klungel will launch a series of weekly cooking classes<br />

in early spring. www.theinhomechef.ca<br />

The Gourmet Deli has opened a second downtown<br />

location for its quick-service deli and sandwich<br />

emporium, in the space formerly occupied by<br />

the Queens Café across from Victoria Park. www.<br />

thegourmetdeli.ca<br />

Longtime fans will be glad to know Ian Kennard<br />

let us know that he has secured a new location for<br />

Willie’s Café and Catering. He has signed a lease with<br />

Dave Cook and the Old East London Food Incubator<br />

and has started moving in, although he is waiting for<br />

a city building permit to do some minor upgrades to<br />

the space. He hopes to be up and running again in<br />

late <strong>March</strong>, continuing to provide catering services<br />

and a smaller version of the Willie’s Café lunch menu<br />

for takeout, Monday to Friday , 11am–2pm. Stay<br />

tuned! www.williescafeandcatering.com<br />

Edgar and Joe’s Café has opened a new satellite<br />

location inside the Innovation Works London<br />

building at 201 King Street. It is open weekdays<br />

from 8am–4pm. www.edgarandjoes.ca<br />

The new Ground Up Organic Café at Richmond &<br />

Piccadilly offers plant-based fare, from espresso<br />

drinks to wraps like the “No-chicken Curry Wrap.”<br />

The menu is as much of a personal statement as a<br />

business venture for co-owners Steve Loney and<br />

Jamie Norman. www.thegroundupcafe.com<br />

Rebel Remedy Fresh Bar, operated by nutritionist Julie<br />

Kortekaas and Chef Shayna Patterson (formerly<br />

of The Root Cellar), will open shortly at 242<br />

Dundas St. The take-away features fresh, healthful<br />

breakfasts and nutritious lunches, including coldpress<br />

juices, kombucha, salads, bone broth-based<br />

soups and Pilot Coffee. www.rebelremedy.com<br />

Kelly Gowanlock of The Littlewood Pie Co. in<br />

Lambeth recently sold the business to Steve and<br />

Tracy Nakonecznyj of Spicer’s Bakery and Deli. “I’m<br />

really looking forward getting back to having time<br />

to play in the kitchen and creating recipes,” says<br />

Gowanlock. “It’s in my blood, I can’t escape it.”<br />

www.spicersbakery.ca<br />

London Brewing Co-operative now has a retail store<br />

and taproom on Burbrook Place in Old East Village,<br />

where visitors can purchase 4 oz. samples and 12<br />

oz. drinks as well as beers to take home in growlers<br />

(1.89L), Boston rounds (950mL), and 650mL bottles.<br />

There are also t-shirts, shirts, and sweaters for those<br />

looking to wear their beer! Down the line they hope to<br />

offer take-home flight paddles so you can host your<br />

own craft beer sample parties. www.londonbrewing.ca

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Dos Tacos at 611 Richmond St. is a partnership<br />

between two young business owners, Asaad<br />

and Ziad, who were inspired by “gourmet” taco<br />

restaurants they saw while on holiday. They<br />

are currently doing renovations to the space,<br />

and plan to keep the garage-style doors in the<br />

storefront area.<br />

Spuddy’s at 421 Richmond St. offers a fresh and<br />

unique take on the traditional baked potato, and<br />

partner Mo Kadri’s passion for his potatoes is sure<br />

to keep customers coming back. The menu starts<br />

with large jacket potatoes, baked to perfection.<br />

Add a dab of butter, hot sauce, shredded cheddar<br />

and a variety of meats, salads, condiments and<br />

sauces according to your preferences.<br />

Patrick’s Beans is roasting a proprietary blend<br />

of coffee for Tourism London for Canada’s 150th<br />

anniversary. The beans will be available at<br />

both the Tourism London Information Centres<br />

downtown and on Wellington Rd.<br />

Charles and Jill Wright’s Locomotive Espresso, at<br />

Pall Mall and Colborne, recently celebrated their<br />

3rd anniversary. www.locomotiveespresso.com<br />

The new 10Eighteen Coffee Bar in Old East<br />

specializes in locally-roasted, fresh pour over<br />

“Homemade Goodness<br />

with a Gourmet Touch”<br />

Since<br />

1972<br />

Whether you are looking for yummy comfort food ...<br />

a delicious weeknight meal ...<br />

or a special way to observe Lent or Passover<br />

— we have what you need and crave!<br />

1050 Kipps Lane, London<br />

519-673-6606<br />

www.kippslanefish.com<br />

TUES–THURS: 3–7:30<br />

FRI & SAT: 12–7:30<br />

Closed SUN & MON<br />

bal·sam·ic redefined<br />

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Explore our collection of over<br />

60 all-natural, whole ingredient balsamic<br />

vinegars and fresh Premium<br />

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or at thepristineolive.ca<br />

462 Cheapside Street | London<br />

519-433-4444<br />

st<br />

We’re moving on June 1 to a<br />

new location to serve you better!<br />

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live<br />

Tasting Bar<br />


30 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

coffee and espresso by Joe Oranato’s O’Joe in<br />

Mount Brydges. Owners Kate Sullivan and Kirby<br />

Collins offer butter tarts, doughnuts, sandwiches,<br />

charcuterie and cheese boards, craft beer and<br />

wine. www.10eighteen.ca<br />

Squire Pub & Grill will open in the space formerly<br />

occupied by Le Rendez-Vous at 109 Dundas Street<br />

in <strong>March</strong>. www.squirepubandgrill.ca<br />

The Rhino Lounge Bakery Coffee Shoppe in<br />

Museum London offers an in-house scratch<br />

bakery that brings decadent desserts to a<br />

London’s Destination<br />

for Culinary Excellence<br />

34<br />

Years of<br />

Extraordinary<br />

Service<br />

Lunch Tuesday to Friday<br />

Dinner 7 Nights a Week<br />

1 York Street<br />

519-672-0111 Free On-Site Parking<br />

Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com<br />

to make your reservation online<br />


Thursday through Saturday<br />

from 6pm<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

whole new level. You have to try their hybrid<br />

doughnut, an homage to the cronut, available<br />

only on Thursdays. It has a dedicated following!<br />

And check out their vegan-inspired “Herbivore<br />

Wednesdays.” www.rhinolounge.ca<br />

After a $10-million renovation, the London Hilton<br />

relaunched as a DoubleTree by Hilton property.<br />

The former London Grill was transformed into<br />

Blake’s Bistro and Bar, with a contemporary<br />

look and updated menu catering to all tastes and<br />

budgets. Try the signature AAA steaks, Pad Thai<br />

and Conrad Burger.<br />

The Museum of Ontario Archaeology will be celebrating<br />

Maple Harvest season with demonstrations<br />

of traditional harvesting methods used by Haudenosaunee<br />

and Anishinaabec ancestors, informative<br />

exhibits, cultural activities, treats and more on<br />

<strong>March</strong> 11th and 12th. www.archaeologymuseum.ca<br />

Nutrition Bites owner Sandra Venneri is one of six<br />

women named as a Top Finalist for the Mompreneur<br />

Startup Award. The local business specializes in<br />

nutrition education services, including personalized<br />

cooking lessons, birthday parties and mindful<br />

eating workshops. Growing Up Healthy Seed-to-<br />

Fork Kits are an innovative product that provides<br />

a fun, food literacy activity making connections<br />

between growing food, cooking and personal<br />

nutrition while focusing on truly fresh, local,<br />

wholesome ingredients. www.nutritionbites.ca<br />

In just over a year, Boho Bake Shop has grown rapidly,<br />

and now supplies a number of local retail stores and<br />

cafes with healthy, plant-based baked goods. Products<br />

can also be found at the Western Fair Farmer’s &<br />

Artisan’s Market. The business is expanding into a new<br />

production space in Old East Village to accommodate<br />

further growth. www.bohobakeshop.com<br />

Miki Hambalek of The Hungary Butcher (892<br />

Dundas St. and at the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market<br />

at Western Fair) now offers a weekly rotating<br />

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients<br />

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer<br />

serving London & Area with different and unique ideas<br />

Corporate<br />

Catering<br />

www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030<br />


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

product list of 56 types of fresh, handmade<br />

sausages, using all-natural casings with no fillers<br />

or nitrates. There is also Halal chicken on offer.<br />

The Harvest Pantry, located on the main floor of<br />

the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair, is a<br />

small wares food and kitchen retailer focussing on<br />

small batch ferments, such as sauerkraut, kimchi,<br />

shrubs, ciders, vinegars, miso and kombucha.<br />

Owner Val Andrews also prepares house-made<br />

pickles and preserves like ginger-pickled golden<br />

beets. www.theharvestpantry.com<br />

Have you had a cruffin yet? One of Black Walnut<br />

Bakery Café’s unique baked goods, it’s a croissantmuffin<br />

that’s baked, rolled in sugar and piped<br />

with seasonally-flavoured custards and creams.<br />

Another customer favourite is the plain buttermilk<br />

scone with ham and an egg, sunny side up. www.<br />

blackwalnutbakerycafe.com<br />

Pepper Tree Spice Co., Port Stanley’s artisan spice<br />

and herb shop, is returning to its roots and has<br />

established a booth at the Farmers’ & Artisans’<br />

Market at Western Fair. Owner Debbie Kussmann<br />

is excited about this, as a great adjunct to her lovely<br />

shop in Port. Expect a wide range of Pepper Tree<br />

spices, using only organic and natural ingredients,<br />

gourmet foods, kitchen and bakeware, gifts and<br />

accessories. www.peppertreespice.com<br />

Congratulations to Andrew and Erin Jardine, owners<br />

of The Village Meat Shop at the Farmers’ & Artisans’<br />

Market at Western Fair, on the latest addition to your<br />

family. The shop offers hormone- and drug-free<br />

Ontario beef, pork, bison, lamb and chicken from<br />

Metzger Meat Products, Lena’s Lamb, Blanbrook<br />

Bison Farm, Little Sisters Chicken and Glengyle<br />

Farm Organics. www.thevillagemeatshop.ca<br />

Stratford<br />

McCully’s Hill Farm Weekends: Sugar Bush<br />

Tours include a wagon ride through the sugar<br />

bush, a guided tour of the sugar shack and a visit<br />

with the farm animals. Enjoy Pancake Brunch<br />

served with McCully’s own maple syrup and<br />

maple pork sausage, and maple baked beans<br />

and fruit. Saturdays and Sundays in <strong>March</strong>. www.<br />

visitstratford.ca/member/McCullys-Hill-Farm<br />

Stratford salutes spring with the Swan Parade<br />

Weekend, the quirky ritual of marching the swans<br />

to the Avon River, <strong>April</strong> 1 & 2. www.visitstratford.<br />

ca/swans<br />

Cheese lovers, mark the week of <strong>April</strong> 1–9, as<br />

Stratford restaurants present their signature cheese<br />

dishes and the Canadian Dairy XPO welcomes<br />

farmers and industry partners from around the<br />

Sha<br />

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In the Heart of Wortley Village<br />


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32 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

world. Visit CheeseFest (<strong>April</strong> 5) at the Stratford<br />

Rotary Complex to sample a wide variety of cheeses<br />

and learn more about Canada’s important dairy<br />

industry. www.visitstratford.ca/cheeseweek<br />

What began as a special occasion for Mother’s<br />

Day last year was so popular that Bradshaws and<br />

Revival House have paired up to present High Tea<br />

once a month on the last Sunday of the month.<br />

www.bradshawscanada.com & www.revival.house<br />

On <strong>April</strong> 22 & 23, join naturalist/forager Peter<br />

Blush as he searches forest trails for wild edibles<br />

such as wild leeks, trout lilies, saddle mushrooms,<br />

wild ginger and more. Learn to harvest sustainably.<br />

Recipes will be supplied. www.pucksplenty.com<br />

Looking for a great place for crepes? Pavillion<br />

Coffee & Crepes on Market Place is gaining rave<br />

reviews with a large menu of savoury and sweet<br />

crepes, waffles and more.<br />

Opening in the spring is SAV Eatery and<br />

Smokehouse on Wellington Street, offering a<br />

delicious menu and cooking classes.<br />

Stratford Chefs School is planning to offer cooking<br />

classes during the summer in their beautiful new<br />

Kitchens on Ontario Street. www.stratfordchef.com<br />

Reserve Now<br />


11am−2pm<br />

The Parlour Steakhouse welcomes Executive Chef<br />

Alan Van Heerdan, originally from South Africa,<br />

bringing global inspiration to local ingredients.<br />

www.theparlour.ca<br />

Around Our Region<br />

Experience the annual Kinsmen Fanshawe Sugar<br />

Bush Maple Event every weekend in <strong>March</strong> and<br />

during <strong>March</strong> Break. The whole family will enjoy<br />

the guided tours, horse-drawn hayrides through<br />

the maple groves, sap-making demonstrations and<br />

displays. www.kinsmenfanshawesugarbush.com<br />

The Idlewyld Inn and Hotel Metro in London and<br />

Stratford’s The Bruce were shortlisted in TripAdvisor<br />

Travellers’ Choice Top 25 Small Hotels – Canada.<br />

Congratulations to Streamliners Espresso Bar at<br />

767 Talbot Street in St. Thomas on your opening.<br />

Drop by and check out their hand brewed Las<br />

Chicas Del Café coffee and fresh pastries.<br />

Kettle Creek Inn is offering two wine pairing<br />

dinners (<strong>March</strong> 4th and <strong>April</strong> 1st). $60 per person;<br />

four course dinner with each course perfectly<br />

matched with its corresponding wine. On hand will<br />

be Chef Rob Lapman and his culinary crew, as well<br />

as Martin Gorski of Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />


Come HOME to La Casa!<br />

A<br />

London<br />

Landmark<br />

for<br />

23<br />

Years!<br />

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am<br />

“2 for 20”<br />

2-Course<br />

Lunch<br />

$20<br />

117 King Street<br />

across from Budweiser Gardens<br />

519-434-2272 (CASA)<br />

www.lacasaristorante.com<br />

“Enjoy consistently<br />

outstanding Italian and<br />

International cuisine<br />

enhanced by local and<br />

seasonal ingredients.”<br />

Perfect for Groups, Rehearsal Lunches & Dinners<br />

and Small Weddings & Receptions!<br />

Extensive<br />

Scotch Bar<br />

Open Mon–Sat<br />

Lunch & Dinner

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

(CREW). Reservations are strongly recommended.<br />

www.kettlecreekinn.com<br />

Deb Benner of Heritage Line Herbs reminds us the<br />

<strong>2017</strong> list of potted herbs and heirloom vegetables<br />

is now available — email heritagelineherbs2014@<br />

gmail.com. Plants will be available at Horton Street<br />

Market in St. Thomas in the spring. There will also be a<br />

big supply of milkweed available. Help the butterflies<br />

to thrive! Details on Facebook or at 519-619-2153.<br />

The folks at Ontario’s Southwest know what people<br />

love. The Craft Beer Cookbook has fabulous recipes<br />

that showcase the region’s unique brews. On your next<br />

trip to Ontario’s Southwest, visit the breweries to stock<br />

up on the signature ingredients for these delicious<br />

dishes. You can read the Craft Beer Cookbook online,<br />

or download a copy at www.ontariossouthwest.com/<br />

trip-tools/craft-beer-cookbook/<br />

The Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance is “stoked<br />

about Ontario seafood.” After you read Tracy<br />

Turlin’s review of the Ocean Wise 2 cookbook in this<br />

issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, check out the Alliance’s website<br />

for some local inspiration. www.ontarioculinary.<br />

com/stoked-about-ontario-seafood<br />

Cuvée Grand Tasting is Ontario’s only Grand Tasting<br />

of local VQA wine. This year, the event returns to<br />

the Scotiabank Convention Centre in Niagara Falls<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 24. With over 50 participating wineries,<br />

Cuvée features Ontario’s finest winemakers, each<br />

presenting their favourite wine. In addition, top<br />

chefs from across the province will create signature<br />

dishes at live cooking stations. www.cuvee.ca<br />

The King Edward in Ilderton has introduced a new<br />

English Pale Ale to an already-strong line-up.<br />

“Hobgoblin Gold is a crisp and dry golden ale with<br />

a well balanced hop nose,” says owner Rich Hunter.<br />

“It’s the perfect pairing with our latest wing flavour,<br />

Edinburgh Nights, based on the Scottish capital’s<br />

famous “chippy” sauce as I experienced it on an<br />

epic 1987 pub-crawl.” Count us intrigued! www.<br />

thekingedward.com<br />

Cindy Taylor of Transvaal Farm and C’estbon<br />

Cheese launched Kitchen Smidgen is St. Marys<br />

in November. The bakery is currently open only<br />

Friday and Saturday, but make a point to drop by.<br />

Taylor’s cinnamon buns and scones have a bit of a<br />

cult following already.<br />

We want your BUZZ! Do you have culinary news<br />

that you’d like us to share? Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

reaches more than 50,000 readers in print, and<br />

thousands more online. Get in touch with us at<br />

editor@eatdrink.ca and/or with our Social Media<br />

Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Experience the<br />

World of Tea<br />

Healthy Light Lunches<br />

Flight Nights<br />

268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • www.tealoungelondon.com<br />

FRI & SAT 10am-9pm • MON-THURS 10am-6pm • SUN 10am-3pm<br />

an experience to savour ...<br />

• stunning architecture & beautiful patio<br />

• world-inspired cuisine enhanced by<br />

local and seasonal ingredients<br />

Private Dining Rooms with Audiovisuals<br />

Ideal for Groups, Weddings,<br />

Receptions, Rehearsal Lunches & Dinners!<br />

NEW<br />

Spring Menus!<br />

+ Vegan &<br />

Vegetarian<br />

MENUS<br />

2 for<br />

20<br />

Two-Course<br />

Lunch for $20<br />

Big Green Egg<br />

Features!<br />


lunch & dinner<br />

523 Richmond St. London www.blacktrumpet.ca<br />

RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca

34 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Beer<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

A Passion for Brewing<br />

The Upper Thames Brewing Company in Woodstock<br />


After visiting hundreds of craft<br />

breweries, Carl Bloomfield had<br />

just one thought: Woodstock<br />

needed one. So the veteran city<br />

firefighter and passionate craft beer drinker<br />

started to brainstorm with a few of his<br />

buddies. A year later the five partners<br />

launched Upper Thames Brewing<br />

Company, Woodstock’s first (and<br />

so far only) craft brewer.<br />

“It’s a passion of mine to visit<br />

craft breweries and brew pubs,”<br />

Bloomfield said. “I likely visited 80<br />

to 85 in the past year and got some<br />

great ideas.”<br />

One of those ideas — apart from<br />

brewing a spectrum of beer styles from IPA<br />

to porter — was to give patrons a spacious<br />

taproom in which to mix and mingle. It also<br />

allows the brewery to host special events.<br />

“Ours is the Cadillac of taprooms,” Bloomfield<br />

said. It has a capacity of 70 people, which<br />

is large for a craft brewery, and features<br />

a handcrafted red maple bar with a canoe<br />

suspended from the ceiling overhead.<br />

The location at 225 Bysham Park Drive in<br />

Woodstock is a former industrial space that<br />

had to go through a rezoning process to allow<br />

the brewery and tap room. The location was<br />

chosen for its high ceilings, concrete floor,<br />

and potential for expansion.<br />

Beer production at Upper Thames is the<br />

bailiwick of partner/brewmaster Josh Bowes,<br />

who honed his skills as a member of the<br />

London Homebrewers Guild. Brewer Drake<br />

Merritt, a Niagara College graduate, was<br />

hired by Upper Thames after wowing the<br />

owners with a white stout recipe<br />

he had developed<br />

while at college.<br />

Merritt’s recipe<br />

for Dusk to Dawn<br />

White Stout<br />

was promptly<br />

Selected in<br />

TOP 10<br />

Beer Bars<br />

in Canada

<strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 35<br />

The spacious taproom at Upper Thames Brewing Co.<br />

above. To the right, co-owner Carl Bloomfield.<br />

brewed, and during January was on tap at<br />

Upper Thames. It incorporated Sumatran<br />

coffee beans roasted by Fire Roasted Coffee<br />

Co. of London, and Ivory Coast cacao nibs<br />

from Habitual Chocolate of Woodstock.<br />

Five beers are always on the board:<br />

Backpaddle Blonde Ale, Portage India Pale Ale,<br />

Dead Reckoning American Pale Ale, Timber<br />

Beast Brown Ale, and Mad River Farm House<br />

Wheat.<br />

Mad River, made with locally-sourced<br />

Cascade hops, returned after a brief hiatus,<br />

due to popular demand.<br />

Backpaddle Blonde Ale has emerged as<br />

Upper Thames’ top seller. It is sweet, not<br />

bitter like an IPA, and uses malt from Harvest<br />

Hop & Malt of Puslinch.<br />

Dead Reckoning is a hopped-up version of a<br />

classic American pale ale, with notes of cedar,<br />

apple and pear.<br />

Most craft brewers feel they can’t swing<br />

open the doors without offering a hopforward,<br />

bitter India Pale Ale. It’s often the<br />

beer recipe by which craft brewers are judged.<br />

Upper Thames had a hop-loving expert in<br />

ASK for ANDERSON<br />

Bloomfield to help in deciding what, exactly,<br />

the Upper Thames IPA would be like: Portage<br />

would be an “entry-level” IPA, with bitterness<br />

obviously present but dialled back to be<br />

accessible to newbies, while not losing the<br />

acceptance of hopheads.<br />

You don’t have to be part of a club to enjoy<br />

Upper Thames beers, but it helps. The brewery<br />

launched its Voyageur Society Club in October.<br />

Membership in the club, which is limited,<br />

comes with a list of perks including first dibs<br />

on one-off beers and access to special beertasting<br />

events throughout the year.<br />

Upper Thames beers are available in<br />

64-ounce growlers at the brewery or on tap at<br />

a handful of pubs including Wilfrid Laurier<br />

University in Waterloo. Plans are to have<br />

Upper Thames on tap elsewhere, including<br />

London, and in cans at the LCBO.<br />

Upper Thames Brewing Company<br />

225 Bysham Park Drive, Woodstock<br />

www.upperthamesbrewing.ca<br />

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London<br />

who enjoys writing about beer and travel.<br />

We now have 5 varieties<br />

available in 355mL cans.<br />

Come pick yours up<br />

at the brewery, today!<br />

1030 Elias Street, London<br />


36 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Wine<br />

Cabernet Franc<br />

Is This Ontario’s Red Wine?<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


South Australia has shiraz. Mendoza,<br />

in the heart of Argentina’s wine<br />

country, has malbec. And in<br />

California’s Napa Valley cabernet<br />

sauvignon is king. Most new world wine<br />

regions are identified by a grape or<br />

style of wine.<br />

Half of the wine exported<br />

from Ontario is icewine, so it is<br />

not surprising that this style of<br />

wine is what many identify when<br />

Canadian wine is mentioned.<br />

Icewine accounts for less that 5%<br />

of the wine production in Ontario<br />

yet many other countries remain<br />

unaware of the world-class dry wines<br />

being produced in the province.<br />

The Great Lakes moderate Ontario’s<br />

climate. About forty years ago, when<br />

Ontario grape growers began experimenting<br />

with vinifera grapes such as cabernets, merlot,<br />

chardonnay, and pinot noir, they discovered<br />

that they could grow quite well in Ontario’s<br />

soil and produce excellent dry style wines.<br />

Two grapes that are emerging as Ontario’s<br />

leading red grapes are cabernet franc and<br />

pinot noir. Both do well in the region’s cool<br />

climate, and result in dry red wines that are<br />

starting to get attention.<br />

Cabernet franc grows in Italy, USA, Chile,<br />

and South Africa and is known as a blending<br />

grape in Bordeaux, and as a single varietal<br />

wine when produced in France’s<br />

Chinon and Bourgueil regions in<br />

the Loire Valley. It is the parent<br />

grape of cabernet sauvignon,<br />

merlot and carménère.<br />

In Ontario cabernet franc<br />

produces a medium bodied wine,<br />

lighter than cabernet sauvignon.<br />

Common aromas are white pepper,<br />

tobacco, raspberry, violets and bell<br />

pepper. It’s a food-friendly wine that is<br />

versatile enough to pair well with roast<br />

chicken, grilled beef, sausage, lamb, and<br />

dishes with tomato sauce and camembert or<br />

goat cheese.<br />

Winemakers in Ontario use cabernet franc<br />

to produce a variety of wine styles such as<br />

rosé, ice wine, dry red single varietal and<br />

as part of an assemblage for a dry red wine<br />

blend.<br />

Here are few cabernet franc wines for<br />

your consideration.<br />

Pelee Island 2015 Cabernet Franc<br />

(LCBO#433714, $12.95) — This wine is<br />

available directly from the winery and<br />

also from most LCBO locations year<br />

round in the Ontario VQA wine section.<br />

While labeled as a single varietal, a<br />

small amount of cabernet sauvignon<br />

(15%) has been blended in, resulting<br />

in a bit more body than one might<br />

expect from a cabernet franc.<br />

Ripe red fruits, cedar, silky<br />

tannins, and lively food-friendly<br />

acidity for versatile food pairings.<br />

A very good, any day wine to drink.<br />

Well worth the price!<br />

Pelee Island 2013 Cabernet Franc<br />

Rosé (LCBO #398982, $12.95) —<br />

Made from 100% cabernet franc this<br />

rosé is extra dry. Pale salmon colour,<br />

light strawberry and raspberry notes<br />

with crisp acidity. An excellent sipper<br />

as we head into the warmer season.<br />

Pairs well with charcuterie boards.<br />

Another excellent value from Pelee<br />

Island Winery.<br />

Stratus 2013 Cabernet Franc (LCBO<br />

#412759, $38.65) — Stratus winemaker J-L<br />

Groux is originally from France’s Loire Valley.<br />

He is known for his blending skills, yet made

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 37<br />

this wine as a single varietal<br />

cabernet franc. This full-bodied<br />

red wine has a look and taste<br />

similar to one from Saint-<br />

Émilion in the Bordeaux<br />

region. Dominating ripe<br />

black berry fruits, spicy<br />

black pepper and graphite.<br />

In a blind tasting<br />

one might be easily<br />

convinced that they are<br />

drinking an expensive<br />

Château Cheval Blanc.<br />

After fermentation<br />

this wine spent 552 days<br />

in French oak barrels.<br />

The price may seem a<br />

bit high for an Ontario<br />

cabernet franc, but when compared<br />

to the $1000 plus price tag of a Cheval Blanc<br />

this wine is well worth it!<br />

This wine offers excellent cellaring potential<br />

and should drink well over the next decade.<br />

Cabernet franc grapes at harvest. Photo courtesy of Ontario Ministry of Agriculture<br />

fine expression of a red blend using grapes from<br />

Ontario’s Lake Erie North Shore wine region.<br />

Good complexity with ripe black berry, black<br />

cherry, tobacco, and pencil shavings and refined<br />

tannins. A good value for a wine of this quality.<br />

Muscedere Vineyards 2012 Meritage<br />

(Winery only, $30) — Meritage is a blend of at<br />

least two red or white grapes that result in a<br />

Bordeaux style assemblage. The red grapes for<br />

a VQA wine in Ontario<br />

can be cabernet sauvignon,<br />

merlot, cabernet<br />

franc, malbec and petit<br />

verdot.<br />

2012 was an exceptional<br />

year for red<br />

wine in Ontario. Hot<br />

summer days and cool nights, with just the<br />

right amount of rain, resulted in an early harvest<br />

of fully ripe red grapes.<br />

Muscedere’s meritage is a blend of merlot,<br />

cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. This is a<br />

Henry of Pelham 2013 Cabernet<br />

Icewine (LCBO# 672402, $39.95)<br />

— Made from cabernet franc grapes<br />

harvested from Henry of Pelham’s Short<br />

Hills Bench vineyards in Niagara and<br />

fermented to 9.5% alcohol/volume, this<br />

sweet wine offers vibrant strawberry,<br />

red cherry and raspberry notes. A<br />

hint of spice and well-balanced acidity<br />

provides a backbone for the sweetness.<br />

It pairs well with dark chocolate and<br />

soft mild cheese.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste and write about wine. He shares his<br />

wine tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />



519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com

38 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Spirits<br />

Cheers, Canada!<br />

Canadian Cocktails?<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Thanks to the antics of Bob and Doug<br />

McKenzie back in the 90’s, there’s<br />

a stereotype of Canadians as beer<br />

drinkers. Others might think of the<br />

Great White North when they reach for a sip<br />

of ice wine or a dram of Canadian Club rye<br />

whiskey, or that great Canadian invention, the<br />

Bloody Caesar. But with the 150th anniversary<br />

of Confederation upon<br />

us, maybe it’s time for<br />

us to raise the cocktail<br />

glasses. Ontario is home<br />

to a number of distilleries<br />

whose output mixologists<br />

and chefs are putting to<br />

use — especially this year,<br />

with special concoctions to celebrate our<br />

national anniversary.<br />

At the recent London Food & Wine Show<br />

guests were presented with some interesting<br />

takes on mixology. The Western Fair District<br />

hospitality services, under the guidance<br />

of Chef Kyle Fee (who is also an instructor<br />

at Fanshawe College’s culinary program),<br />

brought forward a very entertaining offering.<br />

Chef Fee combined a local treat, London<br />

Ice Cream, with cider. Salty Caramel ice<br />

cream is blended with apple cider (Peller<br />

Estates No Boats on Sunday craft apple<br />

cider is outstanding), poured into a glass<br />

that has been rimmed with brown sugar and<br />

cinnamon, and topped with a bit more ice<br />

cream and beer, to create<br />

a very Canadian float. I<br />

wonder if the people running<br />

the Apple Pie Trail in the<br />

Blue Mountains around<br />

Collingwood will have this on<br />

the menu soon?<br />

Icewine Martini<br />

Local craft breweries such<br />

as Cowbell in Blyth are mixing<br />

up cocktails using beer and<br />

spirits. Glassroots on Richmond Street in<br />

London uses Cowbell’s Country Kolsch with<br />

vodka to make a Caesar beer cocktail. It also<br />

has a beer-topped Old Fashioned, one of the<br />

several classic mixed drinks which have seen a<br />

revival of late.<br />

If you are a strawberry fan, Dillon’s Small<br />

Batch Distillers in Beamsville sells Strawberry<br />

Gin — delightful on the rocks, or in an appropriately<br />

coloured gin and tonic<br />

for your Canada Day celebrations.<br />

Whitney Rorison has the fantastic<br />

job of being Hospitality Manager<br />

at Dillon’s. With that job came<br />

the not-so-fantastic task of<br />

cleaning, by hand, 84 flats of<br />

strawberries last summer from<br />

Tigchelaar Farms in Jordan.<br />

The result is proudly called,<br />

“strawberries locked into a<br />

bottle to enjoy year-round.”<br />

Dillon’s also offers cherry<br />

and rose gins that can hold<br />

up on their own as liqueurs<br />

or in fruit-based cocktails. Rose Gin is made<br />

with rose hips and petals. For those with a<br />

tarter taste preference, Dillon’s Limoncello<br />

is popular and also perfect with vodka for<br />

a Lemon Drop Martini. Don’t forget to rim<br />

the glass with sugar. All Dillon’s spirits are<br />

made with no artificial colourings or flavours.<br />

The tasting room is a nice stop en route to<br />

Niagara’s wine country.<br />

In Niagara, icewine infused cocktails are<br />

all the rage. Warning —<br />

these carry a wallop. The<br />

icewine martini is equal<br />

parts icewine and vodka,<br />

shaken on ice and served<br />

with frozen grapes.<br />

Variations include the<br />

icewine cosmopolitan,<br />

which uses the same<br />

ingredients plus Grand<br />

Marnier. Sip, don’t gulp!<br />

Two of the most patriotic drinkers in

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 39<br />

Canada are Scott McCallum and<br />

Victoria Walsh. Their Field Guide<br />

to Canadian Cocktails (Appetite by<br />

Random House, 2015) is a wonderful<br />

read on how they drank their way<br />

across the country. It includes recipes<br />

and listings of craft distilleries along<br />

with stories on the history of spirits<br />

in Canada.<br />

Cheers, Canada. Here’s to a great<br />

year of celebrations! We plan to tell<br />

more stories of Canadian spirits in<br />

future issues.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular<br />

contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, covering<br />

a multitude of topics. She is also<br />

Manager, Communications & Media<br />

Relations at King’s University<br />

College, London.<br />

Recipes and photos excerpted<br />

from A Field Guide to Canadian<br />

Cocktails by Victoria Walsh and<br />

Scott McCallum. Appetite by<br />

Random House, 2015.<br />

Arctic Martinez<br />

This northern twist on a classic Martinez uses an Arctic<br />

Rose Vermouth Reduction — which produces a beautiful<br />

pale-pinkish hue reminiscent of a sunset over Arctic snow.<br />

The delicate Arctic Rose (AKA Wild Rose) is a variety that<br />

grows wild in almost every Canadian province and into the<br />

northern territories.<br />

Makes 1 drink<br />

2 oz (60 ml) Arctic Rose Vermouth<br />

1 oz (30 ml) gin<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) Aperol<br />

handful of ice cubes<br />

1 edible dried rose petal, preferably Arctic rose,<br />

for garnish<br />

Pour all ingredients, except ice and garnish, into a mixing<br />

glass. Add ice and stir until chilled.<br />

Strain through a julep strainer into a chilled coupe glass.<br />

Garnish with rose petal.<br />


Place 4 cups (960 ml) white sweet vermouth and 12 edible<br />

dried rose buds, preferably Arctic rose, in a large<br />

saucepan.<br />

Set over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to<br />

medium. Gently boil until reduced to exactly 2 cups<br />

(480 ml) including roses, about 45 minutes. Remove<br />

from heat and let cool completely. Fine strain through<br />

a funnel lined with several layers of cheesecloth.<br />

Reduction will keep, sealed and refrigerated, for 1 month.<br />

Makes 14 oz (420 ml).<br />

Hot Buttered Rum<br />

This riff on the classic Hot Buttered Rum is brightened by<br />

the use of a compound butter that blends salted butter and<br />

bakeapple. If you can’t get your hands on bakeapple, plain<br />

butter (instead of the compound butter) will do the trick.<br />

Makes 6 drinks<br />

4 cups apple cider, preferably unsweetened<br />

12 oz. Newfoundland Screech Rum or dark rum<br />

4 tsp chilled Bakeapple Compound Butter (recipe<br />

below) or 4 tsp chilled salted butter + 1 Tbsp<br />

honey<br />

6 cinnamon sticks, for garnish (optional)<br />

Set out 6 warmed heatproof mugs or Irish coffee glasses.<br />

Pour 2 oz (60 ml) screech into each mug.<br />

If using compound butter, omit honey. If using regular<br />

butter, spoon ½ tsp (2.5 ml) honey into each mug.<br />

Pour 2⁄3 cup (160 ml) warm cider into each mug.<br />

Thinly slice compound or regular butter.<br />

Top each drink with a little butter. Garnish with cinnamon<br />

sticks, if you like.<br />


In a small bowl, stir 1 tbsp (15 ml) room-temperature<br />

butter, preferably lightly salted, with 1 tsp (5 ml)<br />

bakeapple or apple jelly.<br />

Mound on top of plastic wrap and roll into a small log.<br />

Wrap and refrigerate until chilled.<br />

Compound butter will keep, sealed and refrigerated, for up<br />

to 2 weeks. Makes 4 tsp.

40 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Various Musical Notes<br />

Lions and Lambs<br />

On the music scene this spring<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Spring is around the corner, London.<br />

Truly it is. And with it comes some<br />

great music. The Dixie Chicks are<br />

here,The Lumineers, Tom Cochrane, the<br />

Gypsy Kumbia<br />

Orchestra ...<br />

Wait, gypsy<br />

who?<br />

<strong>March</strong><br />

enters like a<br />

lion, with latter-day<br />

punkers<br />

Simple<br />

Plan playing<br />

London Music<br />

Hall, Saturday<br />

the 11th (7 p.m., no prices yet). They’re<br />

touring their fifth studio album, Taking One<br />

For The Team, with its cool cover shot of the<br />

lads dressed as punk athletes. Expect a highenergy<br />

win.<br />

If you’re craving something a little more<br />

traditional, Clan Hannigan is at the Cuckoo’s<br />

Nest Folk Club (Chaucer’s Pub) on Sunday,<br />

<strong>March</strong> 12 (7:30 p.m.,$20/$25). Clan Hannigan is<br />

Steafan Hannigan, partner Saskia Tomkins and<br />

their three kids. The Cobourg-based outfit plays<br />

“mostly” Celtic music, the girls Irish-dance,<br />

they all play instruments. They have a ball.<br />

With the London Knights out of town,<br />

Budweiser Gardens sets up a mid-<strong>March</strong><br />

musical hat trick.<br />

On Saturday, <strong>March</strong> 18, it’s country star<br />

Chris Stapleton, on his first Canadian<br />

tour since releasing Traveller, his Grammywinning<br />

debut album. Stapleton was<br />

already a songwriter (six #1 hits), bandsman<br />

(SteelDrivers) and session musician. Now he’s<br />

a mega solo star. Nashville-based Canadian<br />

singer-songwriter Lindi Ortega opens (7:30<br />

p.m., $52-$72).<br />

Multiple-Grammy-winning Hall of Famers<br />

Green Day play the Bud on Sunday, <strong>March</strong><br />

19 (8:00 p.m., $41.50-$87.50) — another<br />

dose of punk to wake you from your winter<br />

lethargy. They’re touring Revolution Radio,<br />

released in October. The LA Times called it<br />

Green Day<br />

“a barnstormer of a new punk record,”USA<br />

Today, “a bracing return to form.” ’Nuff said?<br />

Finally, indie-folk trio The Lumineers<br />

play the Knight’s barn, Wednesday, <strong>March</strong><br />

22 (7:00 p.m., $37.50-$74.50). Have a listen to<br />

Chris Stapleton<br />

The Lumineers

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

their second studio album, Cleopatra, released<br />

last <strong>April</strong> (goo.gl/p0CfEU). It’s infectious,<br />

poignant ... luminous.<br />

For a dose of sweet-and-funny, catch<br />

harmonizing folk duo Dala at Aeolian Hall on<br />

<strong>March</strong> 24 (7 p.m./8 p.m., $25/$30). The duo —<br />

childhood besties Amanda Walther and Sheila<br />

Carabin from Scarborough — sing like angels<br />

and go for the giggles between songs. They<br />

were great fun at Home County a couple of<br />

years ago.<br />

Still in a folky vein, London Music Club<br />

offers up Australian newcomer Daniel<br />

Champagne, Friday <strong>March</strong> 24 (8 p.m./8:30<br />

p.m., $12/$15). A songwriter and “unique<br />

guitar virtuoso,” Champagne is a big deal<br />

at home. Now he’s on a world tour with his<br />

album, The Heartland Hurricanes. Your<br />

chance to see the next Nick Cave?<br />

www.sunfest.on.ca<br />

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All Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm<br />

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian<br />

Hall , 795 Dundas St ., London<br />

Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long & McQuade North,<br />

Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca<br />

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Daniel Champagne<br />

Revival House in Stratford continues its<br />

Friday-night dinner-and-concert series.<br />

The Small Glories — Cara Luft (late of the<br />

Wailin’ Jennies) and JD Edwards –are there<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 24. Minstrel Craig Cardiff is in on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 7. Then it’s American singer-songwriter<br />

Joe Crookson, with Toronto-based husband-<br />

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher<br />

now accepting new students<br />

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bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Tom Cochrane<br />

and-wife folk duo The Young Novelists, on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 28. ($25 concerts only, $35 with dinner.)<br />

<strong>March</strong> does not go out like a lamb. Not with<br />

vintage rocker Tom Cochrane and his Mad<br />

Mad World Tour playing Kitchener’s Centre<br />

in the Square, Tuesday <strong>March</strong> 28 (8 p.m.,<br />

$39.50-$79.50). Cochrane released his iconic<br />

Mad Mad World album 25 years ago. To mark<br />

its quarter-century, he’s touring with his old<br />

band, Red Rider, playing the entire album live.<br />

A fan’s delight.<br />

For jazz buffs, it’s slim pickings this spring<br />

(so far). Except for good ol’ Jazz For The<br />

People. It keeps chugging along with its series<br />

of free concerts at the Wolf Performance Hall<br />

(Central Library). London vocalist Laurraine<br />

Segouin and The Ken Foster Quartet<br />

appear Wednesday, <strong>March</strong> 29 at 7:15 p.m. Then<br />

on <strong>April</strong> 26, it’s Group of Seven, another<br />

London outfit. Did we mention it’s free?<br />

Country fans will want to head to Brantford<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 29 (about 70 minutes away.) The<br />

Sanderson Centre has country darling Terri<br />

Clark, a multiple Juno and CCMA award<br />

winner, and the only Canadian regular at the<br />

Grand Ol’ Opry (8:00 p.m., $46/$56). Clark,<br />

with hits such as “Better Things To Do,” “Poor<br />

Poor Pitiful Me,” “and “Northern Girl,” is a<br />

certified Big Deal in country and her opening<br />

act, Jessica Mitchell, is an exciting up-andcomer.<br />

Definitely worth the drive.<br />

Here’s an interesting concept: father and<br />

son duo Bill and Joel Plaskett. Joel, the<br />

alt-rocker familiar to CBC radio listeners and<br />

aficionados of his band Emergency, teams<br />

up with one of his biggest musical influences,<br />

Dad. They’re everywhere this spring,<br />

promoting their Solidarity CD. Catch them at<br />

Aeolian Hall <strong>April</strong> 12 and 13, with guests the<br />

Mayhemingways (7 p.m./8 p.m., $30/$35).<br />

The Dixie Chicks<br />

Or Thursday, May 4 at Dominion Telegraph<br />

in Paris, Ontario (7:00 p.m., $45). Or May 5 at<br />

Bayfield Town Hall (7:00 p.m., $39.55).<br />

High-energy all-girl alt country band the<br />

Dixie Chicks hits the Bud on Tuesday, <strong>April</strong><br />

18 (7:30 p.m., $71-$141). We’re wondering what<br />

the Chicks have to say about the Donald. If<br />

they were “ashamed” of George W. Bush, what<br />

must they think of Trump?<br />

Gypsy Kumbia Orchestra<br />

And finally, yes, Gypsy Kumbia<br />

Orchestra: Saturday, May 13 at Aeolian<br />

Hall (7 p.m./8 p.m., $25/$30.)Who are they?<br />

Imagine a mash-up of Afro-Caribbean,<br />

Balkan brass and Roma fiddles, with dancing,<br />

colourful costumes and energy overload.<br />

That’s GKO — definitely not your average<br />

orchestra.<br />

Bill and Joel Plaskett<br />

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 43<br />

The Classical Beat<br />

The Show Must Go On<br />

Stars are stepping up, and shining<br />


The musicians of #WePlayOn<br />

celebrated the beginning of <strong>2017</strong><br />

with a new name and a new general<br />

manager. Violinist Andrew Chung<br />

took over the administrative reins of the newly<br />

named London Symphonia at the end of<br />

January and is already looking ahead to next<br />

season. But before then, London Symphonia<br />

has two distinctly different musical experiences<br />

to offer audiences this spring.<br />

On <strong>March</strong> 15 members of the orchestra<br />

will join Payadora Tango Ensemble for a<br />

journey through the seductive world of tango,<br />

at Museum London. A month later, on <strong>April</strong> 9,<br />

Stratford Shakespeare Festival music director<br />

Franklin Brasz leads a stellar cast of Festival<br />

performers in an afternoon of music from<br />

the Broadway stage at Metropolitan United<br />

Church. Tickets for both concerts are available<br />

online at the orchestra’s new website: www.<br />

londonsymphonia.ca and Chung hopes to<br />

have the details for London Symphonia’s first<br />

full season finalized before the <strong>April</strong> matinee.<br />

Payadora Tango Ensemble<br />

Concerts this <strong>March</strong>. Unfortunately a<br />

scheduling conflict meant this busy superstar<br />

had to bow out — but all is not lost. Another<br />

rising Canadian star, soprano Marie-Josée<br />

Lord, has stepped in to save the day. Lord<br />

and pianist Hugues Cloutier will present a<br />

program of traditional spirituals and songs by<br />

Gershwin and Bernstein at Wolf Performance<br />

Hall, <strong>March</strong> 25. www.jefferyconcerts.com<br />

Marie-Josée Lord<br />

Fans of period performance are in for a treat<br />

when Tafelmusik’s Ontario Tour: Visions<br />

& Voyages, Canada 1663–1763, makes a<br />

stop at Aeolian Hall, <strong>March</strong> 28. Described<br />

by Tafelmusik marketing manager, Peter<br />

Harte, as “a multimedia concert exploring<br />

a fascinating century of Canadian history,”<br />

this multi-dimensional program designed<br />

by Alison Mackay weaves together images of<br />

maps and works of art, diplomatic dispatches,<br />

“Our goal is to offer six events next year,”<br />

he says. “We won’t be performing as a fullsized<br />

orchestra every time. We want to be<br />

a community-centric orchestra, so we’ll be<br />

branching into smaller formations to create<br />

different musical experiences.”<br />

London-born tenor Andrew Haji was to<br />

have made his local debut with The Jefferey

44 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

and orchestral works by Purcell, Lully and<br />

Handel. The evening features special guests,<br />

narrator Brian Cunningham of Native<br />

Performing Arts, and choreographer and<br />

dancer Brian Solomon. www.aeolianhall.ca<br />

The Karen Schuessler Singers are also<br />

celebrating the sounds of Canada with a<br />

multi-media performance, <strong>April</strong> 1 at Wesley-<br />

Knox United Church.<br />

Love in a Canoe: Celebrating Canada at<br />

150 is a bit like taking a musical trip across<br />

the country, says KSS music director Karen<br />

Schuessler. “We’ll be performing songs<br />

people know and love,” she says. The program<br />

includes music inspired and composed by First<br />

Nations artists and Canadian folk singers<br />

like Ian and Sylvia Tyson, Stan Rogers, and<br />

Gordon Lightfoot.<br />

Guitarist and award-winning music<br />

producer Paul Mills will make a special guest<br />

appearance, and the evening will wrap up with<br />

an audience sing-along to Leonard Cohen’s<br />

Hallelujah. “It will be the sort of concert<br />

to make you feel proud to be Canadian,”<br />

promises Schuessler. www.kssingers.com<br />

Paul Mills<br />

Serenata Music marks the end of its<br />

season with a long-awaited return visit by<br />

internationally-acclaimed pianist Sara Davis<br />

Buechner, May 6 at Wolf Performance Hall.<br />

With a huge amount of repertoire at her<br />

fingertips, Buechner’s program may be a<br />

bit of an impromptu performance. “Mozart<br />

is one of her favourite composers, and her<br />

interpretations are scintillating in their<br />

grasp of the composer’s wit, demand for<br />

dexterity, and sensitivity in the poignant<br />

moments,” notes Serenata Music director<br />

Renée Silberman. “She will move on to a<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

bravura work from the Romantic portion of<br />

the nineteenth century, and then it is likely<br />

that she will make a survey of some twentieth<br />

century jazz-inflected material.”<br />

Sara Davis Buechner<br />

Buechner last graced the Serenata stage<br />

in 2007, and Silberman says excitement is<br />

already building for her return. “Sara’s playing<br />

expresses fearlessness about life and art,” she<br />

says. “Her performances radiate outward from<br />

the stage and electrify her audiences.” www.<br />

serenatamusic.com<br />

If you, or someone you know, is a string player<br />

in Grade 11 through university undergraduate,<br />

Western 360 Summer Music Festival is<br />

looking for you.<br />

London’s newest chamber music<br />

festival runs August 10 to 13 and will<br />

offer 50 successful applicants coaching by<br />

internationally-renowned faculty, workshops<br />

on everything from The Alexander Technique<br />

to building a professional website, and public<br />

concerts by Ensemble Made in Canada<br />

(August 11), Western faculty members (August<br />

12) and festival participants (August 13).<br />

“We are not necessarily looking for<br />

competition winners, or even people aiming<br />

for a professional career in music, but<br />

students who are curious to learn about<br />

things that aren’t necessarily covered in a<br />

typical lesson,” says festival executive director,<br />

Thea Boyd. The deadline for application is<br />

<strong>March</strong> 19. www.music.uwo.ca/events/360-summerfestival/application.html<br />

NICOLE LAIDLER is a former classical musician who<br />

has been writing about London’s cultural scene for more<br />

than a decade. To see what else she’s been up to visit www.<br />


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 45<br />

Theatre<br />

Feeling the Cold?<br />

Here are some dramatic diversions<br />


It may feel like the dead of winter, but<br />

there are plenty of reasons to leave your<br />

cocoon and head to see some heartwarming<br />

theater during <strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>.<br />

Art by Yasmina Reza, presented by special<br />

arrangement with Dramatists Play Service,<br />

Inc., New York and Directed by Nigel Shawn<br />

Williams, runs at the Grand Theatre until<br />

<strong>March</strong> 11 th . A study of beauty being in the eye<br />

of the beholder — or — there’s no accounting<br />

for taste, this<br />

Tony awardwinning<br />

masterpiece<br />

explores the<br />

idea of what,<br />

if anything,<br />

defines<br />

art, and<br />

friendship.<br />

Readers<br />

will be excited to put down their latest book<br />

and head to the Grand. The best-selling<br />

novel, Colony of Unrequited Dreams by Wayne<br />

Johnston is adapted for the stage at The<br />

Grand Theatre <strong>March</strong> 21 to <strong>April</strong> 8 th . This is<br />

an especially timely look at Canadian history<br />

during Canada’s 150 th anniversary year. The<br />

play, with jazz music backup, examines the<br />

story of Newfoundland’s former, and famous,<br />

premier Joey Smallwood. Colin Furlong<br />

portrays the man some called the last Father<br />

of Confederation. The book was adapted for<br />

the stage by Robert Chafe. The play is directed<br />

by Jillian Keiley.<br />

The Pacheco Theatre company, based in<br />

London, takes to Procunier Hall at the Palace<br />

Theatre<br />

with<br />

Who’s<br />

Afraid of<br />

Virginia<br />

Wolf?<br />

This production<br />

of the<br />

classic<br />

discussion<br />

of<br />

a troubled relationship runs <strong>March</strong> 1–11 th .<br />

Rated 18+ for language and mature subject<br />

matter<br />

Things lighten up at the Palace Theatre<br />

over <strong>March</strong> Break when the London Youth<br />

Theatre presents The Addams Family on the<br />

main stage. This is a musical version of the<br />

popular 1960’s television show, directed by<br />

Ruth Noonan with music directed by Kristina<br />

Baron-Woods.<br />

London history comes alive at the Palace<br />

with The Triumph of Teresa Harris. Written by<br />

local London poet, novelist and playwright<br />

Penn Kemp, the adventures of the youngest<br />

member of the wealthy Harris family of Eldon<br />

House in London is told <strong>March</strong> 22 to 25 th in<br />

Procunier Hall at the Palace.<br />

A busy month at the Palace winds up

46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

on <strong>March</strong> 26 th with a matinee, A Forever<br />

Frozen Story, presented by TOHU-BOHU<br />

productions. This musical is inspired by Hans<br />

Christian Andersen’s original fairy tale “The<br />

Snow Queen.” The production company states<br />

that the show “is not based in any way on<br />

Disney’s animated motion picture Frozen.”<br />

Still, it looks like some family fun to welcome<br />

spring.<br />

For those who loved it at the London Fringe<br />

Festival (or missed it and want a chance to<br />

see it), check out Submerged by Vivien Adler,<br />

presented by Banished by the King at The Arts<br />

Project <strong>March</strong> 2 to 4 th .<br />

All you would ever want to know about<br />

belly dancing is the interesting theme of<br />

Best Kept Secrets presented by Rising Moon<br />

Bellydance at The Arts Project on <strong>April</strong><br />

7 th . Artists from<br />

London, Woodstock,<br />

Kitchener, Guelph,<br />

and Hamilton,<br />

in a variety of<br />

costumes, will<br />

tell stories<br />

through dance.<br />

Dance and song<br />

wraps up <strong>March</strong> at<br />

Budweiser Gardens with the Broadway in London<br />

series, Annie. This much-loved Broadway<br />

blockbuster is sure to chase away the winter<br />

blahs with sugar-coated optimism about “Tomorrow.”<br />

Annie is on stage at Bud Gardens on<br />

<strong>March</strong> 23 rd .<br />

The King’s Players at King’s University<br />

College present The Real Inspector Hound<br />

<strong>March</strong> 29 to <strong>April</strong> 1 st . The whodunit one act<br />

play will be performed in the historic Dante<br />

Lenardon Hall on campus.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

presented by<br />

Hidden Talents,<br />

then takes to the<br />

Imperial Theatre<br />

from <strong>April</strong> 19 to<br />

22 nd .<br />

Singing in<br />

the Rain will be<br />

playing at St.<br />

Jacob’s Country<br />

Playhouse <strong>March</strong><br />

22 to <strong>April</strong> 15 th .<br />

Classic musical<br />

theatre presented<br />

by Drayton<br />

Entertainment.<br />

There are two musical theatre shows to<br />

get your toes tapping at the Port Stanley<br />

Festival Theatre in <strong>March</strong> and <strong>April</strong>. Patsy<br />

Cline and the Queens of Country runs twice<br />

on <strong>March</strong> 11 th . Bandstand Revisited with<br />

Dick Clark (tribute) has two shows on<br />

<strong>April</strong> 22 nd . Both are presented by Bill Culp<br />

Productions.<br />

You know it’s spring when previews<br />

start at the Stratford Festival! Guy and<br />

Dolls previews begin <strong>April</strong> 15 at The<br />

Festival Theatre. Donna Feore directs<br />

and choreographs this musical comedy. The<br />

production dances its way from New York to<br />

Havana in a battle of the sexes.<br />

Around the region<br />

Alfred Hitchcock fans will want to head to<br />

Sarnia’s Imperial Theatre. The 39 Steps is<br />

presented by Theatre Sarnia from <strong>March</strong> 31<br />

to <strong>April</strong> 8 th . A cast of four bravely presents<br />

150 characters in a comedic whodunit. Glee,<br />

A new adaptation of Robert Louis Stevenson’s<br />

Treasure Island begins previews on <strong>April</strong> 22 at<br />

the Avon Theatre. Juan Chiroan as Long John<br />

Silver is a much anticipated performance of the<br />

season at Stratford. This will be a world première<br />

of Nicolas Billon’s adaptation, commissioned by<br />

the Stratford Festival and directed by Mitchell<br />

Cushman.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media<br />

Relations, at King’s University College in London.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> | 47<br />

Recipes<br />

The Ocean Wise Cookbook 2<br />

More seafood recipes that are good for the planet<br />

Edited by Jill Mundy<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

With so much<br />

information<br />

available about<br />

food these days,<br />

it’s sometimes difficult to know<br />

which choices to make. Since<br />

I can be finicky about fish, I<br />

struggle to get more seafood<br />

in my diet. Add in the larger<br />

issue of sustainability and<br />

it’s enough to make you<br />

throw in the kitchen towel.<br />

Freelance writer, editor<br />

and photographer Jane<br />

Mundy has made these<br />

choices easier with the publication of The<br />

Ocean Wise Cookbook 2; More seafood recipes<br />

that are good for the planet. Ocean Wise is a<br />

Vancouver Aquarium conservation initiative<br />

that partners with restaurants and suppliers<br />

of seafood products that commit to offering<br />

more sustainable options to their customers.<br />

A seafood source is deemed Ocean Wise if<br />

it meets four criteria relating to abundance,<br />

management and method of harvest. This<br />

list is continually updated so a fish that is<br />

Ocean Wise today (or at the time of writing<br />

the book) should be checked<br />

before purchase to ensure<br />

that it hasn’t fallen to Not<br />

Recommended status. This<br />

can be done easily at www.<br />

oceanwise.ca. There’s an<br />

abundance of information<br />

here; it’s worth taking the time<br />

to explore.<br />

Since the release of the<br />

original Ocean Wise cookbook<br />

in 2010, the movement<br />

to promote sustainable,<br />

responsibly sourced food has<br />

grown by leaps and bounds.<br />

More chefs across the<br />

country are preparing<br />

food that matters before<br />

it hits the plate, and<br />

customers are loving the<br />

results.<br />

I enjoyed the things I<br />

learned from this book as<br />

much as I liked the dishes.<br />

I found information about<br />

many types of seafood, some<br />

that were new to me. Substitutions<br />

are encouraged to<br />

ensure sustainable choices.<br />

There are even a few dishes<br />

using canned fish. Adventurous<br />

cooking techniques are demystified<br />

and safety tips are offered if you prefer<br />

your seafood raw. There are instructions for<br />

home made condiments like Blueberry Pickle<br />

and Black Olive Powder that are used in later<br />

recipes but are versatile enough to become<br />

pantry staples.<br />

Ocean Wise 2 is truly a beginner-toadvanced<br />

book. Mundy has taken restaurant<br />

recipes compiled from chefs across Canada<br />

and made them accessible to the home cook.<br />

They are rated by difficulty,<br />

so you can choose which<br />

to make for a week night<br />

dinner and which to save<br />

for a Sunday afternoon with<br />

lots of preparation time. I’m<br />

including one of each here<br />

for you.<br />

My “gotta make this as<br />

soon as possible” dish is<br />

the Grilled Lingcod Tacos,<br />

Goddess Sauce and Summer<br />

Coleslaw. This dish is so easy<br />

Editor Jane Mundy

48 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

it almost cooks itself. It also includes my<br />

favourite hot sauce and satisfies my obsession<br />

with tacos. I may not wait until summer to<br />

grill this one up.<br />

My “I’m going to pretend I’m going to<br />

make this someday” recipe is Dungeness<br />

Crab Ravioli. Hand made ravioli is filled with<br />

crab meat, ricotta cheese and a perfect egg<br />

yolk and served with a rich, creamy bisque<br />

and garlic breadcrumbs. I may not get brave<br />

enough to tackle this one anytime soon but I’ll<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

savour every minute thinking about it.<br />

It’s this contrast that makes Ocean Wise 2<br />

a great book if you are looking for something<br />

fancy to impress someone on date night or you<br />

are simply trying to get your kids to eat a better<br />

kind of fish stick. Take the plunge, you’ll be<br />

hooked. (You know I had to go there.)<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in<br />

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes and photos excerpted from The Ocean Wise Cookbook 2, edited by Jane Mundy.<br />

Grilled Lingcod Tacos, Goddess Sauce<br />

and Summer Coleslaw<br />

Chef Chris Mills, Joey Restaurant Group, Vancouver<br />

Serves 4<br />

These fish tacos are authentic, simple to make, and<br />

a perfect summer meal. Sauces are the key to great<br />

tacos. With this recipe you make one, the Goddess<br />

Sauce, and buy one, the Valentina hot sauce.<br />

TIP: I use new wooden clothes pins to keep the tacos<br />

folded.<br />

SUBSTITUTIONS: Pacific halibut or any firm-fleshed<br />

fish. You can substitute your favourite hot sauce here<br />

for the Valentina.<br />


½ cup (125 mL) Mayonnaise (p. 16)<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) chopped green onions<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh Italian parsley<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) chopped garlic<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

½ tsp (5 mL) dried tarragon<br />

1 anchovy fillet, chopped (optional)<br />

Salt<br />

Black pepper<br />

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor, blending<br />

until smooth.<br />


3 cups (750 mL) thinly sliced green cabbage<br />

½ cup (125 mL) peeled and grated carrot<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) thinly sliced red onion<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) chopped and loosely packed<br />

cilantro<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) rice wine vinegar<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil<br />

¼ tsp (1 mL) sea salt<br />

Place cabbage, carrots and red onions in a colander; rinse<br />

thoroughly with cold water to crisp. Allow to drain for 5<br />

minutes. Meanwhile, whisk cilantro, vinegar, oil and salt<br />

in a large bowl. Add vegetables. Toss well to coat.<br />


1 lb (450 g) lingcod, cut into strips<br />

Salt<br />

Black pepper<br />

Twelve 6-inch (15 cm) white corn tortillas<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) grated cheddar cheese<br />

2 avocados, diced<br />

1 cup (250 mL) shredded lettuce<br />

½ cup (125 mL) diced tomatoes<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) diced white onions<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) Goddess Sauce<br />

3 Tbsp (45 mL) Valentina hot sauce<br />

Grill fish on the barbecue with salt and pepper until it is<br />

just cooked, about 90 seconds per side. (Or heat 1 Tbsp /<br />

15 mL olive oil in a heavy, large skillet and panfry until<br />

cooked through.) Meanwhile, place the tortillas spread<br />

out on a preheated barbecue with grated cheese on them.<br />

Spoon a teaspoon of Goddess Sauce onto the cheese<br />

and place the cooked fish on top. Pile the remaining<br />

ingredients on top of each individual taco and gently fold<br />

them in half. Finish with a drizzle of Valentina hot sauce.<br />

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market<br />

Saturdays, 9am–1pm, through <strong>April</strong> 8<br />

Our outdoor Farmers’ Market remains<br />

indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine. We grow<br />

it, raise it, make it & bake it —<br />

local produce, meat, cheese,<br />

wine and more! Vendor<br />

sampling takes place on the<br />

main floor, Centre Court,<br />

10am–1pm. FREE<br />

Cooking Classes run<br />

from 11am–noon upstairs<br />

in the Market Kitchen. Live<br />

music from 10am–noon.<br />

Recipe Samples from Jill’s Table<br />

Thursdays, 11:45am–1:15pm<br />

The market has partnered with the expert<br />

cooks at Jill’s Table for a weekly dish featuring<br />

market ingredients. Great suggestions for<br />

meals, soups, salads, desserts and more! Try<br />

the food, pick up a recipe.<br />

Outdoor Easter Market<br />

Saturday, <strong>April</strong> 15, 8am–1pm<br />

Enjoy out annual Easter<br />

market tradition!<br />

Free Parking<br />

2 Hours Saturday & Sunday, ½ hour Weekdays<br />

Outdoor Farmers’ Market<br />

Opening Day is Saturday, May 6. Join us!<br />

TO SERVE<br />

Serve with a side of coleslaw and the remaining Goddess<br />

Sauce in a small bowl. Leftover Goddess Sauce will keep<br />

refrigerated for up to 1 week, and goes well with just about<br />

any white fish.<br />


Light and just slightly spicy, these fish tacos are best<br />

paired with crisp dry white wine like a Sauvignon Blanc,<br />

Pinot Blanc or a lighter style Chardonnay.

50 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Dungeness Crab Ravioli<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Chef Tim Evans, The Cascade Room and Charlie’s Little<br />

Italian, Vancouver<br />

This dish appears on the feature sheet at Charlie’s Little<br />

Italian in the late summer during peak crab season.<br />

Serves 4 mains or 8 appetizers.<br />


Lobster or shrimp meat for the crab or you can use<br />

spinach instead for vegetarians. “00” flour is an Italian<br />

measurement that indicates how finely ground the flour is<br />

and how much of the bran and germ have been removed.<br />

00 is best for making pasta but all-purpose flour will do.<br />

the dough looks a little dry,<br />

add a small amount of water<br />

until it comes together. If<br />

it looks a little wet, add a<br />

touch more flour.<br />

After 5 minutes the dough<br />

should be smooth and have<br />

elasticity. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate<br />

for 1 hour.<br />



2 cups (500 mL)<br />

ricotta cheese<br />

2 pinches of kosher<br />

salt<br />

Pinch of black<br />

pepper<br />

1 lemon, juiced and<br />

zested<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) fresh<br />

chopped tarragon<br />

1 cup (250 mL)<br />

Dungeness crab<br />

meat<br />

8 free range egg<br />

yolks<br />

Mix all ingredients in<br />

a mixing bowl. Make<br />

sure texture is even and<br />

refrigerate until ready<br />

to use.<br />

PASTA<br />

2 eggs<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra<br />

virgin olive oil<br />

2 pinches of kosher<br />

salt<br />

2 cups (500 mL) 00<br />

flour<br />

2 egg yolks<br />

Mix eggs, olive oil and<br />

salt. Pour flour into a<br />

large mixing bowl and<br />

create a well in the<br />

middle with a fork. Pour<br />

egg mixture into flour<br />

and gently fold in sides<br />

with the fork until dough<br />

starts to form. Knead the<br />

dough for 5 minutes. If

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

After pasta dough has rested, roll out in pasta machine or<br />

with rolling pin until fingertips can be just seen through<br />

the dough. Cut into 16 large 4-inch (10 cm) squares.<br />

Lay out 8 pasta squares. Place 2 Tbsp (30 mL) of ricotta<br />

mixture into the centre of each one.<br />

Make a well in the centre of the ricotta with the back of<br />

a spoon and place in egg yolk being very careful not to<br />

break it. Wet edges of pasta square with a little egg yolk<br />

or water and press the remaining squares on top to form<br />

the raviolo.<br />

Press gently but firmly around the edge of each raviolo to<br />

seal and make sure water cannot enter.<br />

Poach the ravioli in simmering salty water for 2–3 minutes<br />

until tender.<br />

BISQUE<br />

1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion<br />

1 cup (250 mL) chopped celery<br />

1 cup (250 mL) chopped carrot<br />

2 cloves garlic, chopped<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) brandy<br />

4 cups (1 L) crab or Fish Stock (p. 14)<br />

2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream<br />

In a saucepan, cook onion, celery, carrot and garlic<br />

until translucent. Add tomato paste and cook out until<br />

thickened and coating vegetables. Add brandy to deglaze.<br />

Add stock and reduce by half then add cream and reduce<br />

by half. Strain and keep warm.<br />


1 cup (250 mL) panko<br />

2 cloves garlic, minced<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) extra virgin olive oil<br />

Kosher salt<br />

Black pepper<br />

Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C).<br />

Stir ingredients into breadcrumbs and toast in oven for 3<br />

minutes or until golden brown.<br />

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TO SERVE<br />

Olive oil<br />

Italian parsley<br />

Place two raviolo in each bowl and poor over bisque.<br />

Garnish with garlic bread crumbs, olive oil and Italian<br />

parsley, as desired.<br />


Di Lenardo, Pinot Grigio.<br />


• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca

52 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Books<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

When the Moon Hits Your Eye<br />

Slice Harvester: A Memoir in Pizza<br />

by Colin Atrophy Hagendorf<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Some people have<br />

the guts to take on<br />

groundbreaking<br />

projects that become<br />

bigger than themselves. Setting<br />

out to eat at every pizzeria in<br />

New York City seems to be<br />

one of these undertakings,<br />

but the magnitude of it did<br />

not dissuade Colin Atrophy<br />

Hagendorf. At first, he was<br />

hesitant about liberating the<br />

idea from the safety of just<br />

being an idea, to something<br />

for the greater good of pizza<br />

lovers everywhere. Even<br />

standing before the first<br />

pizzeria for his inaugural slice, Hagendorf had<br />

reservations about following through with<br />

the plan. But on that first day he hit seven<br />

pizzerias; most of them were not good, but<br />

the last one gave him hope to carry on.<br />

From August 2009 to November 2011,<br />

Hagendorf became known as The Slice<br />

Harvester, a self-proclaimed “mozzarellafueled<br />

superhero” warning “fellow citizens<br />

against inferior pizza” by consuming 435<br />

different slices across the city. He documented<br />

each visit in a notebook and published<br />

them on his Slice<br />

Harvester blog, along<br />

with a quarterly<br />

print version zine.<br />

His book, Slice<br />

Harvester: A Memoir<br />

in Pizza (Simon<br />

& Schuster, 2015,<br />

$30.00), that came<br />

out after the project<br />

was completed, is<br />

different than his<br />

blog and zine, which<br />

focused on each slice as<br />

the research unfolded.<br />

The book does have<br />

snippets of the best<br />

and worst slices he had,<br />

but is more about what<br />

he was going through<br />

personally on his pizza<br />

mission. Hagendorf is not a<br />

mainstream guy: he is antiyuppie,<br />

anti-government,<br />

anti-Billy Joel and, since his<br />

teen years, his punk lifestyle<br />

has been as formative to his<br />

character as pizza. He was<br />

dedicated to his project like<br />

nothing he had set his mind to<br />

before, trying to put his unique<br />

mark on the world, all the while fighting<br />

hangovers, battling past demons, and dealing<br />

with relationship commitment issues. He<br />

writes: “All I had ever wanted as a kid was to<br />

create something that would resonate with<br />

people — and here I was, doing just that.”<br />

He often attended his harvesting sessions<br />

with other friends, mostly punk musicians<br />

or zine artists, but also had one memorable<br />

experience with actress Phoebe Cates and<br />

her teenage daughter. He put in a lot of miles<br />

during tasting days,<br />

often hitting up<br />

to eight or nine<br />

pizzerias in a few<br />

blocks. He dropped<br />

into places with<br />

names like Pizza<br />

Palace, Grandpa’s<br />

Brick Oven Pizza,<br />

Amadeus Pizzeria,<br />

and Hell’s Kitchen<br />

Colin Atrophy Hagendorf



www.atasteforlife.org<br />

Where will you dine?<br />

25% of sales will be<br />

donated to RHAC.<br />

25% des ventes seront<br />

reversées à RHAC.<br />

Pizza, and reminds his readers to never judge<br />

“a slice by its storefront.” He might have had<br />

a nearly perfect slice in one pizzeria and one<br />

block away had one that made him throw up<br />

(yes, that happened once).<br />

He ordered a plain cheese slice (or “a regular<br />

slice” in New York parlance) at each location<br />

to keep a consistent comparison. Each slice<br />

was given an overall rating out of 8, based on<br />

certain qualities: sauce flavor, dough quality,<br />

cheese flavor, ratio of ingredients, aftertaste,<br />

temperature (he prefers reheated, rather than<br />

fresh out of the oven), structural integrity<br />

(being able to eat it on the go), and value for<br />

the price. His ideal slice could be described as<br />

“tangy, not-too-sweet sauce, crisp crust, good<br />

quality cheese, all working together in the<br />

delicate balance of ratios that separates a great<br />

slice from a mediocre one.” Even with several<br />

of the 435 slices fitting this description, Pizza<br />

Suprema, with such accolades from his blog as<br />

“the ratios on this slice were superb” and “the<br />

crust’s flavor was unstoppable”, was the only<br />

restaurant that received a perfect 8 during his<br />

entire pizza journey.<br />

His project gained traction and attention<br />

from the media. He was acknowledged for<br />

his work by the pizzerias themselves (at least<br />

those with glowing reviews). People started<br />

using his reviews as a way of knowing where<br />

to go for good pizza in certain parts of the<br />

city. He was being taken seriously for pizza<br />

advice, generating a following of people<br />

interested in pizza culture. The harvesting of<br />

pizza gave him a purpose in life that he had<br />

been avoiding thus far.<br />

The memoir goes beyond pizza ratings,<br />

however, and the discipline involved in his<br />

project caused other revelations to arise in<br />

his life, like reconciling with his parents years<br />

after being an unkind teenager, admitting that<br />

his method of looking for love through online<br />

dating may be misguided, and recognizing that<br />

a clean and sober path might be a better way<br />

to get his life out of a rut. After completing his<br />

two-year project, a combination of success,<br />

fame, and true love prompted him to come<br />

clean with his addictions and to control his life<br />

in a way that may not have come about if not<br />

for his love of pizza.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham<br />

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.

54 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Just Eat It!<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


Edna Staebler coined the phrase Food<br />

That Really Schmecks, which is also<br />

the title of her cookbook series based<br />

on Mennonite home cooking. While<br />

I’m not a Mennonite, my Dutch genes have<br />

helped me to be a pretty good cook. My ex<br />

might argue that point, but that is why he<br />

is my ex. My current spouse shakes his head<br />

at my ex’s opinion of my cooking, because<br />

according to him my salads and main courses<br />

rock! And even some of my desserts. Woo hoo!!<br />

As you might know from previous stories,<br />

I’m not the best baker, nor are desserts my<br />

forte. Those Dutch dessert-making genes<br />

went to my middle sister.<br />

I do have a knack for putting<br />

flavours together and coming<br />

up with winning meals.<br />

Only I forgot to write<br />

down what I did and can’t<br />

remember how I did it,<br />

so it can’t be replicated.<br />

As a young family<br />

many moons ago, we<br />

always sat down at the<br />

kitchen table for the family<br />

supper. My son, who had<br />

such a good appetite when he<br />

was a baby and toddler, turned<br />

into a picky eater. We endured meals<br />

punctuated with “just eat it” and “finish your<br />

supper,” and “stop talking and eat please.” It<br />

even got to the point where we would sing to<br />

him Al Yankovic’s “Eat It.” We had to convince<br />

him that every meal was chicken. It was the<br />

only way he would eat his dinner.<br />

As he got older and a slight bit wiser, he<br />

asked why chicken looked different each day.<br />

My answer, “Because your mother is a genius<br />

in the kitchen. She knows how to make it look<br />

and taste different, so you don’t get bored.”<br />

As a teen he often skipped meals. Friends<br />

and skateboarding took precedence over<br />

family meals, but the next day, the platter of<br />

leftovers would be gone, along with much else<br />

from my fridge.<br />

He refused to learn how to cook, thinking<br />

perhaps he’d live with Mom for the rest of<br />

his life and she would always provide. Young<br />

adulthood soon burst that bubble.<br />

Off to college in Toronto, where he learned<br />

that fried eggs on toast (the only meal he<br />

could make) could quickly get boring. He<br />

became inventive — fried egg on toast with<br />

lettuce, or with kale and chopped carrots. The<br />

many variations of fried eggs on toast were<br />

original, to say the least. Soon it was a steady<br />

diet of Mr. Noodles — raw or cooked. To be<br />

replaced with kale, sliced apples and peanut<br />

butter licked off the spoon.<br />

When his schooling took him to<br />

Ottawa, trips home were few<br />

and far between. His diet of<br />

kale and sliced apples with<br />

globs of peanut butter<br />

continued. Soon he<br />

learned how to make rice.<br />

Pasta with canned sauces<br />

became a staple and was<br />

added to his growing<br />

culinary arsenal.<br />

He came home for a<br />

visit at Christmas and I<br />

planned all his favourite meals.<br />

Listed them out to which days I<br />

was making them. He never missed a<br />

meal. Made it a priority to be home on time,<br />

sat down with his family, and lapped up<br />

every dish, asking for second and thirds. We<br />

didn’t have to say, “just eat it” or “finish your<br />

supper,” or even “Santa is watching.”<br />

His lips smacked with murmurs of<br />

“Mmmm” as he ate. When he was done, said,<br />

“That was so good Mom.” I smiled benignly,<br />

and patted myself on the back because — my<br />

food really schmecks.<br />

JUDY FRANCISSEN resides in London,where she<br />

spends her time writing nature, travel, historical and<br />

human interest articles, and working toward getting her<br />

novels published.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Season Sponsor<br />

Two defining stories of visionary Canadians – Joey Smallwood<br />

and Tom Thomson – come to life on stage this spring.<br />








Title Sponsor<br />


56 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />


11AM – NOON<br />

Upstairs on the<br />

Mezzanine<br />

@<br />

10AM – NOON<br />

coventmarket.com<br />

/coventgardenmarket<br />


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