Eatdrink #64 March/April 2017

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007


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Issue #64 | March/April 2017


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine


Farm-to-Fork Organics

The Root Cellar

Rooted in the Community


Blackfriars Catering & Bistro

Tradition with a Twist

Upper Thames Brewing Co.

Passion for Brewing

Cabernet Franc

Is this Ontario’s Red Wine?

Check Out Our


Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007


2 | March/April 2017

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


delicious salute

to spring

Experience Canada’s liquid gold on the Savour Stratford Maple

Trail during March and April. Visit McCully’s Hill Maple Festival

for weekend sugar bush tours and pancake brunches. Savour

CheeseWeek menus and explore the world of wild edibles on

spring foraging adventures. Bring your family for a memorable

salute to spring at the annual Swan Parade celebrations.


2-5 Stratford Garden Festival

4-5 McCully’s Hill Farm Maple Festival (every weekend)

18 Junction 56 Distillery Tour (every Saturday)

26 Revival House High Tea


1-2 Swan Parade Celebrations (Parade Sun. at 2pm)

2-9 CheeseWeek, Local restaurants

5 CheeseFest, Canadian Dairy XPO

22&23 Puck’s Plenty Spring Foraging

visitstratford.ca @StratfordON StratfordON

Savour the flavour

of Elgin County...




At Metzger’s,

we follow Old World

recipes to create healthy and

wholesome foods. We hand select

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA

Beef and offer superior local Pork,

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially

proud of our own handcrafted

artisan-style meats and salamis. We

are confident that you will taste the

Metzger Meats difference.



The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine




Think Global.

Read Local.


Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca


Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca


Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy


Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,

Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook, Gary Killops,

Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery,

Wayne Newton, Tracy Turlin, Kym Wolfe

Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6


City Media


Impressions Printing

© 2017 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission

of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000

issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed

in the information, content and/or advertisements published in

Eatdrink or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not

necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes

submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

Open six days a week.

Hensall, Ontario

Just off Hwy 4,

45 minutes north of London.



Available in London at

The Village Meat Shop

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market

on Saturdays!

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry

Specialty European Meat Products


Organic burgers &

fries from The Root

Cellar are a visual

and savoury treat.

Photo by Mariam



Join us for a six course meal, celebrating Canadian cuisine,

hosted by five chefs from across Canada

Cocktails / Food Stations / Silent Auction – 5:00 PM

Dinner Service & Program – 7:00 PM

TICKETS $ 200 .00 each

519.858.HOPE • bethanyshope.org

Presenting Sponsor

Gold Sponsors


Issue #64 | March/April 2017

Publisher’s Notes

When I’m 64




Tradition with a Twist

Blackfriars Catering & Bistro



Rooted in the Community

The Root Cellar Organic Restaurant



Road Trips

Food, Drink, and History

Something for Everyone in Buffalo




Get Screeched In!

Let Newfoundland Change You




Culinary Community Notes



Passion for Brewing

Upper Thames Brewing Co. in Woodstock




Cabernet Franc

Is this Ontario’s Red Wine?










Cheers, Canada!

Canadian Cocktails?



Various Musical Notes

Lions and Lambs

On the music scene this spring



The Classical Beat

The Show Must Go On

Stars are stepping up, and shining




Feeling the Cold?

Here are some dramatic diversions




Ocean Wise 2

Edited by Jill Mundy

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN



Slice Harvester

By Colin Atrophy Hagendorf

Review by DARIN COOK



The Lighter Side

Just Eat It!






Featuring our seasonally created à la carte menu.

Come & sample our new Spring Menu.





162 Wortley Road, London ON N6C 3P7








8 | March/April 2017

Publisher’s Notes

When I’m 64

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


It’s hard to believe. No, I am not referring

to another Trumpism. We are coming up

on our tenth anniversary for Eatdrink

this summer. Where has the time gone?

Every issue is a new adventure, and this is

Number 64. As Paul McCartney wrote, in his

youth, “Will you still need me, will you still

feed me, when I’m sixty-four?” As Sir Paul has

discovered, the answer is a definite yes, and

we trust the same is true for us here.

Keeping pace with

culinary trends

can seem simple

compared to

staying current

technologically. When

we launched the magazine, having a website

had become important but Facebook was only

beginning to open up to non-students and

Twitter was just getting started. It was several

years before Eatdrink jumped into social media.

Today, it’s a critical aspect of our business.

And that website? We launched a redesigned

site a few years later, and I’m thrilled with our

latest iteration of Eatdrink online. We launched

our new site quietly, a few weeks ago, and I am

confident we have a winner. Please check it out.

You’ll find a ton of pleasant surprises, but here

are some highlights:

Responsive Design: Anticipating

continual growth of smartphone usage, all

content will scale seamlessly onto any device,


for perfect resolution on desktops, laptops,

tablets and phones.

Readability: Elegant typography with a

focus on readability creates an awesome user


Faster Loading, Easier Navigation: The

slick user interface also loads faster, so stories

open immediately.

Easier Sharing: It’s a breeze to share

stories that you love,

no matter what social

media platform you

enjoy most.


Content: When you

read a story you’re

interested in, suggestions for related content

follow. For example, interested in recipes?

You’ll find all of our cookbook reviews and

recipes organized together.

Improved Search: Looking for something

you read but can’t recall all of the details? Our

new Search function is brilliant. And fast.

You also may notice a refreshed design on

our printed pages in this issue. Feedback is

greatly appreciated. We know that thousands

of our loyal readers prefer to read the hard copy,

and we’re committed to that for as long as you

are, with 20,000 copies rolling out every other

month. If you find us hard to find, you’ll see a

beautifully organized list of pick-up locations on

our website under the Magazine menu.


Oops. I made an embarrass ing error

in the last issue. We had

a new ad from one of our

favourite new restaurants,

the charming SoLo on Main in

Port Stanley. Somehow I reran the

previous holiday ad.

What our readers should have

seen, and our online readers did see

as soon as the error was brought to

my attention, was this “Hand-crafted

Indulgence” ad. Yes, it’s striking, and

so is the restaurant. Chef Lauren



VanDixhoorn presents vibrant plates that are

as delicious as they are beautiful.

Restaurant & Bar

226 658 0999


You’ll be glad to know both

the comfortable SoLo lounge and

dining room are open Wednesday

to Sunday for lunch and dinner.

Walk-ins are welcome but if the

weather is dodgy, be sure to call

ahead at 226-658-0999.

Here’s hoping the SoLo patio

and porch are open before long too.

Thanks for your patience, Lauren

and Paula.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Congratulations to Ashley Cordeiro!

Combining our regular Facebook

draw with our annual London Wine

& Food Show draw, we had a double

prize package. In addition to the Lexus of

London prize — detailing of her car and a

Lexus to drive for three days while the work

is being done! — Ashley won overnight

accommodations and breakfast, lunch and

dinner for two from Windermere Manor and

Restaurant Ninety One. Enjoy, Ashley!

There’s a new draw now open. Go to our

#eatdrinkmag Facebook page and click on the

link to our Lexus of London draw. Good luck!

We’ll select a new winner on April 24, 2017.


had the pleasure of meeting Chef Michael

Smith at last year’s Bethanys Hope Foundation

fundraiser, so was pleased to see he

is helping this worthy cause once again.

Coast to Coast: A Taste of Canada will take

place at the London Convention

Centre on April

27, 2017. Chef Michael,

along with four top chefs

from across Canada, will

celebrate Canada’s 150

with a culinary adventure

exploring the fieldto-fork


Cocktail hour features five “live-action” chef

stations, including the always popular P.E.I.

Oyster Bar with Chef Michael. An amazing

six-course dinner will follow, with both live

and silent auctions. www.bethanyshope.org

London’s black-tie Tastings takes place

May 4 at the London Hunt & Country

Club. Enjoy “a journey for the senses”

inspired by the McCormick Flavor

Forecast® of emerging taste trends, paired with

fabulous wines. This is a fundraiser for London

Health Sciences Foundation’s Impact Fund.

Providers of the exquisite food include

Rick Peori from Old East Village’s All ’Bout

Cheese, Chefs Scott Wesseling and Matt

Rice from Black Trumpet, Chefs Erryn

Shephard and Ben Sandwith from Grand

Bend’s F.I.N.E. A

Restaurant, Jess


and Chef Jeff Fortner from The River Room

in Museum London, and Chef Eric Boyar

from Sixthirtynine in Woodstock, and other

notable contributors. www.lhsf.ca/tastings

celebrating 122 years in stratford

10 | March/April 2017


Tradition with a Twist

at Blackfriars Catering & Bistro in London

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


You don’t have to be in the food

business to know that keeping

a restaurant in operation can be

particularly tricky. And even harder

still when forces beyond your control suddenly

make your location hard to, well, locate.

When Blackfriars Bridge closed to vehicular

traffic in 2013, it threw a wedge between

Blackfriars Bistro and the clients who had

relied on Ridout Street for easy transit to and

from the restaurant. But while these sorts of

barriers can be the harbingers of death for

a business, Blackfriars Bistro owner, Betty

Heydon, and her strong and caring team have

proven that they have staying power.

This February marked Blackfriars Bistro’s

21st anniversary, and the little restaurant

located at 46 Blackfriars St (just southwest

of Oxford St. and Wharncliffe Rd.) is better

than ever. Things are looking up for the

neighbourhood. The other premises in the

restaurant’s building are now fully rented, and

a new loose-leaf tea shop called Teatcha has

moved in across the street.

“We just got busier and better, both with

catering and the bistro,” Betty says of the

past year. “The amount of support we’ve seen

from dedicated clients and new clients is just


For those who are discovering (and

rediscovering) the bistro, putting the

restaurant’s tastes and flavours into a category

may prove to be easier said than done. What

Betty describes as “tradition with a twist,” the

Blackfriars taste is eclectic, ever evolving and

uniquely attributable to the restaurant and

the history of the people who work there.

“My philosophy has always been that we first

have a respect for tradition and then we go forward

into the future,” Betty explains. “What that

means is that you’ll always find the favourites

that people have loved and come to expect from

Blackfriars. Yet we’re constantly reinventing, to

give people what’s new and innovative.”

After 21 years in business, Blackfriars Catering

& Bistro is a well-known landmark on the London culinary landscape

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 11

“a sundried port soaked cranberry and sage

cheesecake” will be making its way onto the

spring menu.

The Blackfriars menu changes seasonally,

and the shape of each new iteration of the

menu hinges on input from all Blackfriars

We first have a respect

for “ tradition and then we go

forward into the future.

— Betty Heydon

Handcrafted tables, purple walls and a large

chalkboard menu personalize the warm interior

Some of the items on the menu were

inspired by Betty’s Italian grandmother, Nona

Bridget, from Sault Ste. Marie. “We had a very

matriarchal family of 10 daughters and two of

them became nuns. When they came to visit,

Nona would make steak and eggs for them —

pan searing it really fast and flipping it. She

didn’t know it, but she was making a beurre

blanc, using white wine and butter. We, the

children, would get to dip our crusty

bread in the sauce. I’ll always remember

that dish because it was such a special

occasion when they came to visit.” (Nona

Bridget used round steak: the Blackfriars’

twist is to use sirloin instead.)

And while that recipe holds special

meaning for Betty, patrons have clear

favourites too. Some of these include

the banana rum and raisin bread

pudding, served warm with caramel

sauce and whipped cream, and the

gourmet grilled three-cheese sandwich

on multigrain, with spiced apple and

onion, and served with a cup of soup. If

you think those sound decadent, Betty

has something else for you to consider.

“Our savoury cheesecakes are definitely

a signature dish. We have a Stilton

cheesecake with grilled chicken on the

lunch salad, and at night we serve it

with prosciutto,” she says, adding that

stakeholders, from the kitchen staff to the

customers.“I like the direction to be clean,

clear taste. Fusion, but not confusion —

complexities and layers should always be

traceable back to the ingredient,” she says,

noting that the menu creation is a team

process. “That’s always my goal, to be able to

hear everybody’s voice and the customer’s

voice in there too.”

With the increasingly sunny weather, Betty

and her husband will go in search of produce,

meat and fine ingredients from local farms. She

also plans to continue to grow and harvest some

herbs and vegetables — like tomatoes, zucchini

and kale — from her own home garden.

Owner Betty Heydon with one of her own

paintings — part of the restaurant’s decor and

indicative of her artistic stamp on the bistro

12 | March/April 2017





eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

One of the most wonderful aspects of the

Blackfriars menu is that the menu serves as

a jump-off point and clients are invited to

further customize their vegan, vegetarian or

meat selection.“We try to have something for

everybody on the menu — but people can

play off of that,” she says. “If someone were to

say, ‘I see you have this selection, but I’m not

feeling that tonight,’ we can go talk to the chef

and give them another couple of choices.”

The customizability and flexibility that the kitchen staff

welcome has created a pseudo-secret menu, from which

even past menu items can be revived.“Someone could ask

for the Portuguese shrimp, which we haven’t had in 15

years, and we’ll make it for you,” says Betty.

This aspect of her business is one that Betty clearly takes

pride in — and it extends to the catering side of the business,

which is available for small groups as well as large functions,

like weddings and celebrations. Offering personalized

menu creation (Blackfriars doesn’t have a standard catering

information package), Blackfriars wants to create the perfect,

experience, tailored to each client. “I want you to just enjoy

yourself (at your event) knowing everything will be well

taken care of,” she says. “My lovely staff is truly professional.

If they come into your home they will leave your home so

clean that you wouldn’t know you had a party — and this is

what we’re known for.”

But if you’d prefer, you can always have your

event on-site at the restaurant. The whole

Blackfriars Bistro can be reserved for private

functions, provided you have a minimum of 24

guests on a weeknight, and 34 on a weekend.

For those interested in pairing their dish

with just the right drink, Blackfriars has an

answer there, too. With a wide selection of

craft brewed beer, consignment wine and a

bring-your-own-bottle licence (corkage fee of

$15), you’re sure to find the right beverage to

complement your meal.

“I always want to give a salute to all of those

people who are making beer,” Betty says. “We started about

12 years ago with small batch breweries, like Stonehammer

[formerly F&M Brewery] and Railway City. These people are

all just really great people.”

But all “food and drink” aside, there is something special

about Blackfriars that goes a step beyond. When Betty, an

arts graduate, first decided to open the eatery, she and her

husband had “nothing” — but a vision of bringing people


1 Crème Brûlée French Toast with fruit and warm syrup;

2 Wild-caught Coho Salmon with grilled shrimp served over an Asian

vegetable slaw;

3 Blackfriars Soup & Sandwich: gourmet grilled three cheese with spiced

apple on house-made multigrain with the soup of the day, here a fire

roasted tomato basil soup & crispy kale;

4 Wheat-less Brownie with Grand Marnier mousse and fresh berries;

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

The restaurant’s purple walls are

adorned with large works of art,

featuring conversation-provoking

scenes that Betty herself has painted.

The square bistro tables are topped

with mosaics that she and her husband

hand-built. And even as she sits, being

interviewed for this article, Betty’s

phone continually rings with patrons

looking to reserve tables for later in

the day —and she fields each one with

warmth and mostly on a first name basis.

“Growing up in an Italian household,

food was where we talked and where we

met and worked together. We would sit at

a counter from the youngest to the oldest,

banging out

gnocchi to

put in the

freezer for

the whole


You always

had that


and the



competes with

the best in the

city. Here are


salads for a


Betty Heydon’s writes

out the menus — and

the chalkboard

specials — with an

artistic hand.


Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!

rhetoric and

it was a kind

of bonding

that would be

hard to take

place without


“I’ve always

worked in this industry because it’s

a good honest way to connect. It’s just what

you do — you genuinely take an interest in

the people that you take care of. I believe all

people deserve to eat, and to eat well.”

Blackfriars Catering & Bistro

46 Blackfriars Street. London



lunch: monday to friday 11:30–2:30

dinner: monday to saturday 5:00–10:00

brunch: sunday 11:00–2:00

TANYA CHOPP is a storyteller and marketing

professional. Over the past decade, she has enjoyed

crafting and amplifying meaningful communications

across the arts, culture, entertainment, health, wellness,

and technology industries.

eatdrink &

Presented by

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag

Contest ends April 24, 2017. Complete details online.

Congratulations Ashley Cordeiro,

winner of our Jan/Feb Draw!

14 | March/April 2017


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Rooted in the Community

The Root Cellar Organic Cafe, in London's Old East Village


Delve into the emerging

food and cultural district

in London’s historic Old

East Village. Stop into The

Root Cellar Organic Restaurant,

with its fresh, from-scratch organic

offerings, artistic interior and

friendly workers. Since its inception

in July of 2012 as a small 20-seat

café, The Root Cellar has evolved

into a 70-seat destination café/pub

and restaurant.

On the second floor there is a

new special events venue called

Taproot. With a reclaimed aesthetic,

carpentry by Arlen Galloway and

metalwork by Wojchiech Sikorski

(the craftsmen behind The Root

Cellar’s artistry), the LCBO-licensed

space with a 55-person capacity has

been designed for special events and is also

available for rent.

The restaurant’s interior is artful and

functional with many comfortable seating

options that add to the eclecticism of

The core of The Root Cellar’s creative, co-operative structure

includes, from the left, Mariam Waliji, Ellie Cook, Melissa Harland,

Aaron Lawrence, Paul Harding and Jeff Pastorius.

the space. Monthly local art exhibits and

decorative features like the large sheet-metal

flowers suspended above the bar reflect the

café’s artisan sensibility.

The Root Cellar is in transition to a workerowned

co-operative business structure.

Known as the Forest City Worker

Co-operative and closely aligned with On

the Move Organics (OTMO) and London

Brewing Co-operative (LBC), members find

satisfaction in the community that they

live in and love, while serving up the best

organic products from the local food shed

(food consumed within 100 miles of where

it was produced). Founding members are

Jeff Pastorius (also founding partner of

OTMO), Aaron Lawrence, Joel Pastorius,

and restaurant manager Ellie Cook. What

they advocate goes way beyond local and

organic eating and drinking.

The Root Cellar’s earthy Dundas Street signage and

facade signals the restaurant’s organic ethos.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

The business embraces the principles of

the Slow Food movement, the non-profit

educational organization dedicated to

supporting and celebrating regional culinary

identities, while encompassing the purity of

the organic movement. The concept for The

Root Cellar originated from the ambition

to bring the community together with

area organic farmers and producers as an

outgrowth of OTMO, the progenitor, supplier

and sister organization that connects people

to local certified organic food producers. This

is accomplished through its communitysupported

agriculture home delivery service

and its organic green grocer at the Farmers’ &

Artisans’ Market at Western Fair

on Saturdays.

There is also an organic juice

and smoothie bar known as the

Root Cellar Market Kitchen on

the second floor of the market.

Customers can choose from a

menu of nutritious, energizing,

detoxifying, or just plain

refreshing drinks. The staff

concoct fresh, healthful creations

every weekend to keep things

interesting. Organic cold-pressed

juices and bakery products are also


Chef Paul Harding’s former TOOK (The

Only on King), with its enthusiastic support

of local farmers and producers, embodied the

farm-to-table philosophy. When TOOK ceased

operations Harding, who is credited with

helping to revolutionize the local restaurant

scene with farm-to-table ideals, became the

standout choice for Executive Chef, to give

The Root Cellar’s kitchen some recalibrating.

Sous chef Hunter Guidon and junior sous chef

Michael Schart are pivotal members of the

energetic culinary team who have helped to

Taproot, in the top photo, is The Root Cellar’s new secondfloor

event space. Above is the restaurant’s eclectic main

floor bar and main dining room. Below are two photos

showing opposite views through the restaurant’s brick

archway through the two dining areas.

fine-tune the already successful operation and

increase the dinner offerings.

The repertoire of from-scratch menu

offerings with ever-changing specials are all

organic (with minor exceptions), procured

from the local farming community. All of the

produce and ingredients in the restaurant’s

16 | March/April 2017




eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

dishes are certified organic, with 80% local in

season. The challenge is how to compete with

less expensive, imported foods and how to

compensate organic farmers with a fair price

yet keep menu offerings accessible to patrons.

Harding has added more protein choices

(wild-caught fish, organic grass-fed beef

steak, and free-range organic poultry) while

keeping lots of plant-powered dishes on the

menu. Wild-caught Manitoulin whitefish and

potato cake with kimchi, bacon and Gingerich

Farms poached certified-organic egg is on

the current dinner menu. The ploughshares

board is exceptional and is designed for both

vegans and carnivores — there are so many

good components that it will require your

undivided attention. House-made pickle coins

are deep-fried in London Brewing Co-op beer

batter and are served with a curried BBQ

sauce. We are long-time fans of the locallysourced

Berkshire pork sausages and the freerange,

pasture-raised water buffalo burger

recommended by long-time worker Kim

Miller. Check out the sourcing blackboard in

the dining room to find out which ingredients

are sourced from each farm or producer.

There is ethically-sourced and wildcrafted

tea. Coffee beans are organic and either

Fairtrade certified or bought directly from

the growers and roasted locally by Patrick’s

Beans. Milk, cream, sugar — it’s all organic.

The house-made baked goods are made from

the historic Arva Flour Mill’s organic grains

and flours.

The wine list features VQA wines from

Pelee Island Winery, Southbrook Vineyards

(certified organic), and Frogpond Farms

Organic Winery. Our server, Raven Brown

(former TOOK manager) tells us that the

list will soon be expanded to add more wine



1 Two Poached Eggs rest atop slices of Field Gate

Organic sliced ham, roasted heirloom squash and a

crisp bed of kale, topped with Hollandaise and housemade

hot sauce, served with roasted potatoes;

2 Manitoulin Whitefish Cake on a bed of sweet potato

purée, topped with crisp greens, with kimchi aioli;

3 Patatas Bravas with crispy potato, smoked pepper

sauce, pickled red peppers and a drizzle of vegan

garlic aioli

4 Kamut Rotini pasta baked with duck confit, spicy

tomato sauce and a mix of local cheese, topped with a

poached egg;

5 Peanut Butter and Chocolate Tart, with chocolate

filling on a peanut butter and rice flour crust, finished

with a garnish of honey caramel popcorn, paired with

a Tolpuddle Porter from the London Beer Co-op.


Potato Gnocchi in

a bed of tomato,


sausage and

collard greens

ragu, topped

with shaved aged




diversity from Ontario. There is a small

curated cocktail menu that has just launched.

Think matcha, ginger Booch, basil, and

Junction 56 gin.

To be a great restaurant, you have to provide

an exceptional experience. Food enthusiasts

aren’t just going out to dine any more,

they’re looking to have a great encounter. The

Root Cellar excels as a hub for community creativity,

innovation and food-focused special

events. Be sure to keep an eye out for cooking

classes, workshops, community dinners, and

collaborative efforts. The knowledgeable workers

invite you to discover what it means to be

rooted in your community, a local economy

and a local food system.

The Root Cellar Organic Café

623 Dundas Street, London



monday–friday: 11am–10pm

saturday: 9am–10pm

sunday: closed

Swords to


Board: local

artisanal cheeses

& charcuterie,

cured duck,

spiced cashews,

crostini, housemade


seasonal veg &

crudités, served

with house-made


BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer

at Large.

FRI April 21 7 to 9:30 p.m.

SAT April 22 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

SUN April 23 noon to 5 p.m.

Booklets with maps are available at

Museum London & Library Branches

or online at


Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743

55 George Street

Stratford, Ontario

tel. 519.272.2828

See more Easter

treats online at


Holiday hours:

Open evenings ’til

8 pm all Easter

week long. Good

Friday: closed.

Open Easter Sat.

from 8am to 6pm.

18 | March/April 2017


Road Trips

Food, Drink, & History

There’s something for everyone in Buffalo

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Story and photography by WAYNE NEWTON

I’m craving Cheerios.

The Buffalo mill which produces

the popular breakfast cereal is

close to my hotel, and the smell

from it is locked in as I begin to explore

one of America’s most surprising cities.

Cheerios, the ready-to-eat cereal

originally called CheeriOats until a

copyright fight got in the way, have been

made here since 1941, when the city’s

waterfront was dominated by rows of

high rise grain elevators, silos, and mills.

Buffalo was North America’s most

important grain handling hub, until

construction of first the Welland Canal

and then the St. Lawrence Seaway

changed the rules.

Today Buffalo’s collection of grain

The Connecting Terminal grain silo bursts onto the Buffalo skyline

nightly with an illumination art show that flows from one colorful

scene to the next.

silos and elevators has mostly been silenced,

except for the chatter of passionate history

buffs and excited tourists like me. Silo City,

located a 10-minute drive from downtown

on Childs Street, is one of Buffalo’s — if

not the continent’s — most unusual tourist

attractions. Through Explore Buffalo, visitors

can travel around the complex of 10-storey

concrete towers by kayak, on a ground tour, or


While most opt for the ground tour,

content to look up from inside and out at the

massive industrial structures built 100 years

ago, the fittest tourists and those with no fear

of heights or qualms about climbing narrow

ladders can join a tour to the top.

In addition to tours paying homage to

the industrial legacy of the towers, Silo City

is also being repurposed as a performance

space for theatre, summertime flea market, as

well as a craft beer and food truck festival in


The former Buffalo post office was slated for demolition.

It’s now a community college and featured in walking

tours of downtown architecture.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 19




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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Of course there’s more to discover in

Buffalo than breakfast cereal and silos. Its

downtown, best explored through organized

and informative walking tours, is home

to several spectacular examples of various

architectural styles. These include the old post

office, once slated for demolition and now a

college campus. It’s a 1901 structure made of

granite and featuring a 244-foot tower, handcarved

gargoyles and animals, and a sky-lit,

six-storey atrium.

Inside, second-year Erie Community

College culinary students operate a restaurant

open to the public called the E.M. Statler, in

honour of a famous Buffalo hotel owner.

The Ellicott Square Building, which was

the world’s largest office building when it was

erected in 1895, features a grey terracotta

exterior and interior courtyard featured in the

Larry Mruk, a docent with Explore Buffalo, adopts an

Irish persona in homage to the thousands of mostly Irish

immigrant workers who once worked in the grain elevators

on Buffalo’s waterfront.

movie The Natural. For those who wonder,

those are not Nazi swastikas comprising part

of the tile floor design — they are symbols of

luck, which pre-date the German fascists and

are the reverse of the Nazi symbol.

A must-do walking tour, entitled Masters of

American Architecture, includes stops at two

of Buffalo’s many impressive churches: the

curiously-shaped St. Paul’s Episcopal Cathedral,

which is tucked onto one of downtown

Buffalo’s many triangular lots, and St. Joseph’s

Roman Catholic Cathedral, which features a

“Strength, Pride, Ambition” are words to live by in

both the tap room of Big Ditch Brewing Company

and in the city of Buffalo.

Museum owner Mike Kleba is passionate about Buffalo’s

automotive manufacturing history, which includes Pierce

Arrow cars.

43-bell carillon and 3,627-pipe organ.

Such architectural gems were possible at

the turn of the 20th century because

Buffalo was the eighth largest city in

the U.S. at the time and its citizens had

the resources to hire the best architects

and craftsman.

No architect’s work in Buffalo is

more famous than that of Frank Lloyd

Wright. Many already know about the

Martin House, a 15,000-square-foot

brick-and-wood home in the city’s

Parkside neighbourhood. Built during

1903-1905, it’s considered one of

Wright’s finest works from his Prairie

House period.

Less well known is a Frank Lloyd

Wright designed gasoline station, which

has been built from the original plans

inside the Buffalo Transportation-

Pierce Arrow Museum.

Beautiful to behold, the filling station

had many practical problems, including

a waiting room fireplace located underneath a

rooftop gasoline storage tank. Still, the reason

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 21

A flight of craft beer from Resurgence Brewing Company includes

Loganberry Wit, Autumn Saison, Vanilla Pumpkin, and Sponge

Candy Stout.

Ahi tuna salad at the AK Cafe features tuna seared rare with

cucumber noodles, red peppers and black olives.

(716) Food & Sport provides a superior experience for sports fans,

with big screens, plenty of taps and hearty pub fare.

the station was never built during Wright’s

lifetime was that the architectural fee he

demanded was too steep.

Peckish after hours of exploring, wise visitors

check out the huge Buffalo craft beer scene.

Among the standout breweries with food (but

no Cheerios) are Big Ditch downtown at

55 East Huron St., Resurgence Brewing

at 1250 Niagara, and Thin Man in trendy

Elmwood Village.

Choose one — or make time for all —

and raise a glass to a remarkable city.

Learn More

Visitor information:


Silo City and downtown walking tours:


Martin House Complex:


Buffalo Transportation-Pierce Arrow

Museum: pierce-arrow.com

Buffalo Food Festivals

Taste of Buffalo, held annually during

the second weekend of July

National Buffalo Wing Festival, held

annually on Labour Day Weekend.

Additional Dine & Drink


Anchor Bar, 1047 Main St., is where

Buffalo wings got their start as a latenight

snack. The rest is history.

(716) Food & Sport, 7 Scott St., is a

two-storey sports bar featuring burgers

and beer near KeyBank Centre, home

of the NHL Buffalo Sabres.

Gene McCarthy’s, 73 Hamburg

St. A former dive bar in the Old First

Ward, it’s where working men from the

grain elevators would come to wet their

whistles after work. Famous now for

its Old First Ward craft brewery and

Friday fish fry.

Five Points Bakery, 44 Brayton

St. A farm-to-table café famous for its

toast, including apple cider with triple

cream brie.

AK Cafe, Albright-Knox Art Gallery,

1285 Elmwood Ave. Located in a gallery

famous for its Andy Warhols and

Jackson Pollocks, the gallery restaurant

is noted for its view of a sculpture

garden, and for fresh soups, salads and

sandwiches. Highly recommended is

the ahi tuna salad ($14 US).

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London

who enjoys writing about beer and travel.

22 | March/April 2017


Get Screeched In!

Let Newfoundland change you

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Story and Photography by KYM WOLFE

Having met many a Newfoundlander

over the years, I’ve long had an

interest in visiting “The Rock.” I

envisioned myself immersed in

a warm and friendly culture, drinking in

amazing scenery and colourful fishing villages,

and experiencing conversation steeped in

a charming but sometimes indecipherable

accent. This past summer I was finally able

to make my way to Canada’s eastern-most

province, and I was not disappointed.

If a trip to Newfoundland is on your bucket

list, 2017 might be an ideal year to go. To

celebrate Canada’s 150th anniversary visitors

to all national parks and historic sites will

enjoy free admission, and the province has a

wealth of them, as well as other interesting

things to see and do.

We started our adventure in Gros Morne

National Park, sampling the rugged beauty

and diverse terrain of Newfoundland’s

west coast. Each day of hiking revealed

breathtaking vistas, and based on the

different types of rocks that we saw there

I suspect that this part of Canada must

be a geologist’s dream. The brown, barren

Tablelands is one of the few places where a

large stretch of the earth’s mantle has been

The spectacular geography of Gros Morne

National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

includes fjords and towering mountains.

Parks Canada has placed pairs of red chairs around

Gros Morne, for visitors to enjoy some of the

country’s prime vistas. These are at Red Point.

pushed to the surface (described as “a slice

of ancient ocean floor’). Hike through and

eventually you arrive at Old Man Cove and

the lush Green Gardens along the Gulf of St.

Lawrence, which are full of volcanic rock.

Gros Morne offered a different experience

every day. We hiked through bog land and took

the boat tour in Western Brook Pond (a former

fiord carved by glaciers out of the massive

rock cliffs — absolutely gorgeous); to the base

of Gros Morne mountain (a challenging trail

that rewarded us with spectacular

views); around Lobster Cove

Lighthouse and into the family

home of the former lighthouse

keeper; to Bakers Brook Falls

(a fairly easy trail that leads to

picturesque waterfalls); and one

evening we watched the sunset

from Green Point. It became a bit

of a game to find the red chairs

that Parks Canada has placed

strategically at points where you

can have a seat and enjoy the


We were warned not to drive

between dusk and dawn because of

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

You never know who — or what — you might meet on

the hiking trail. The author was surprised by this moose.

the danger posed by moose, but only saw one,

and that one not on the road. When a planned

afternoon of kayaking at Norris Point was

cancelled due to choppy water we decided to

climb a hill that promised scenic views. Signage

warned that there was an aggressive moose on

the trail, but locals told us that the animal was

simply responding to a tourist who invaded its

space while trying to take a selfie with it. “If

you see it, just quietly back up and walk away,”

they advised. As we rounded a bend we were



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treated to an up-close rear-view of the massive

animal. I managed to snap a picture of it before

backtracking…quickly and quietly. Our only

other encounter with moose was at meal time;

you can find moose burger on most menus.

Another highlight of our time in Gros

Morne was being “screeched in” at a pub

kitchen party in Rocky Harbour. We dutifully

kissed the cod, danced a jig, played a musical

instrument (mine was an “ugly stick’), sang

a song, recited a pledge including a promise

to “honour and respect me codfadders

and me codmudders,” and downed a shot

of Screech (40% proof rum). We walked

back to our hostel singing east coast songs

and enjoying our new status as Honorary


We were lucky enough to head out of town

just ahead of the rain clouds, making our way

to the northern coast’s New World Island

and the picturesque village of Twillingate. On

our first night we enjoyed fresh lobster and

entertainment at the NWI Twillingate Dinner

Theatre. It is run by a talented and hilarious

ABOVE: Auk Island Winery in Twillingate produces wines

made from local wild berries.

LEFT: Some hiking trails, like this one near Twillingate,

are more challenging than others.

BELOW: House construction on Battery Hill

group of men and women who both prepare the

meal and perform on stage. The evening was

filled with songs, skits, jokes and humourous

stories. Over the next two days we enjoyed

more hiking, more spectacular views, a shed

party (very much like a kitchen party, but held

in a garage), and our first glimpse of an iceberg.

Before leaving Twillingate we stopped for

a tour and tasting at Auk Island, one of two

Newfoundland wineries that produce unique

wines crafted with wild berries, locally grown

fruits, and some with iceberg water. We loved

Auk Island’s eye-catching labels and clever

names, from Moose Joose to 3 Sheets to the

Wind. On our way to St. John’s we stopped at

Rodrigues Winery and Distillery in Whitbourne

and sampled some award-winning wines. As

Newfoundland’s only commercial distillery,

Rodrigues also produces liqueurs, schnapps,

brandies and vodka. It’s in a former hospital,

and many of the rooms, like the nursery, still

have the original names on the doors.

By the time we got to St. John’s, we had

switched our mind-set from trekker to

“townie.” We took in tourist

staples like Signal Hill and Cape

Spear (the most eastern place in

North America), and walked past

colourful “jelly-bean” rowhouses

on our way to the shops on

Duckworth and Water Streets. We

visited Battery Hill and wondered

at the homes built into the rocks

where everything — from building

materials to appliances — would

have had to be hand-bombed.

We drove a little of the Irish

Loop when we went to Bay Bulls for

Gatherall’s puffin and whale watch

boat tour. The fog was too thick to

see any whales but we enjoyed the

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Opening Soon!

A kitchen party at the QuidiVidi brewery.

playful puffins, and the sheer volume of birds on

Baccalieu Island was mind-boggling.

The Rooms, which houses the provincial

museum, art gallery and archives, is well

worth a visit. The exhibit about WWI and its

impact on Newfoundland, particularly the battle

of Beaumont-Hamel, was heart-wrenching.

We discovered the Newman Wine Vaults

quite by accident when we decided to take the

hop-on/hop-off trolley (just $5 for a day pass).

One of the oldest structures in St. John’s,

the massive brick and stone wine cellars were

built to age port wine — possibly the only

place outside of Portugal that has ever done

so. We enjoyed the tour and the building so

much, we returned the next night to see a play

performed there by the Shakespeare by the

Sea Festival theatre group.

Our entry fee to the wine vaults also got us

into the Commissariat, which was built in the

early 1800s as the home of the supply officer

for the British military. The clever exhibits

in the carriage house give you a good grasp

of Newfoundland’s back story as one of the

first independent dominions in the British

Empire, and of the roots of the fierce pride

that Newfoundlanders have in their history

and heritage.

There are so many good restaurants in St.

John’s, it is impossible to try them all. We

particularly enjoyed the Bernard & Stanley

Gastropub on Duckworth Street which bills

itself as the spot for rustic comfort food, and

the Yellow Belly Brewery and Public House

at the foot of George Street. The Yellow Belly

is located in a heritage building, and bills the

basement UnderBelly as one of the oldest rooms

in Canada, and St. John’s only speakeasy.

We happened to be in St. John’s during the

George Street Festival. For six nights the twoblock

street becomes a concert venue and one

big street party. We found a place to sit with

a great view of the stage on the night that the

Trews and Our Lady Peace were performing,

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Yellow Belly Brewery and Public House at the foot of

George Street.

and the weather was perfect for an outdoor

evening concert. Outside of the festival, this is

a great street to visit anytime, as it is packed

with side-by-side pubs, bars and restaurants

where you can enjoy live music every night.

We also enjoyed live music at our last

kitchen party before leaving Newfoundland,

which took place at the QuidiVidi brewery.

We had enjoyed a tour and tasting earlier in

the day, as well as a visit to the neighbouring

Quidi Vidi Village Plantation. The Plantation

houses artisan studios where you can see

artists at work creating a range of handmade

items, from woodcut prints and textiles

to unique jewellery made with Viking


Far too soon we were heading to Argentia to

catch the ferry back to Nova Scotia. We made

a quick side trip to Cupids, the site of the first

English settlement in Canada dating back to

1610. Our tour guide was quite enthusiastic

about the different artefacts that she had been

involved in unearthing at the archeological dig.

Overall we felt that same enthusiasm

and friendliness wherever we went in

Newfoundland. It is a province that has

a unique sense of place and culture, and

it was lovely to immerse myself in it for a

short time. I would definitely visit again ...

although, sadly, I don’t think I’ll make it back

in 2017.

KYM WOLFE is a London-based freelance writer who

is always up for a road trip. Visit her online at www.


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 27


Culinary Community Notes

In March, local restaurants will be bringing

their culinary creativity to a celebration of

Canada, offering a secret menu item that

explores quintessential Canadian flavours,

ingredients, and storytelling through food. Try

these special culinary twists at The Black Walnut

Bakery Cafe, The Boombox Bakeshop, Fancy Tarts,

Olive R. Twists, Plant Matter Kitchen, Shelly’s Tap

and Grill, Smoke’s Poutinerie and Twisted Toque.

In London’s charming Wortley Village, Pure Bon: A

Food Shop — with its delicious chef-prepared takehome

meals and gourmet kitchen items — closed

for repairs after a flood caused extensive damage

before the shop could even celebrate an official

grand opening. Happily, the business has re-opened

to rave reviews. www.purebon.ca

Blu Duby North, located at 745 Fanshawe Park

Road, just west of Wonderland, is now open for

lunch and dinner. The restaurant borrows much

of what has made the original Blu Duby, located

within the Hotel Metro in Downtown London, such a

popular success. www.bluduby.ca

Latino Flavours Restaurant has opened in the

premises formerly occupied by BEGOS at 129

Dundas Street. The restaurant features pupusas,

tacos, arepas and chimichangas. Try the pineapple

cobbler and coconut flan.

The Black Trumpet courtyard garden may be

the most tranquil dining location in London.

Chef Scott Wessling’s new spring menus have a

contemporary take on iconic classics, drawing

from local seasonal ingredients. New menus

also include both vegan and vegetarian features.


One of our favourite food trailers is the organic,

Mexican-inspired Ivanopoblano in the parking lot

of Lyn-Dys Health Food at 1016 Oxford St. E. Ivan

Santana-Barnes has returned with some fresh

ideas after taking a brief winter break for some

culinary inspiration in Guadalajara, Mexico.

We are hearing positive reports about The Take Out

Fish & Chips London, at 1635 Oxford St. E. at Second

St. London does love its fish ‘n’ chips. Kipps Lane

Fish & Chips, established in 1972, is hopping, and

has added lunch service on Fridays and Saturdays.

New customers are welcomed and encouraged, but

the cozy little restaurant and take-away shop teems

with happy regulars. www.kippslanefish.com

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra of North Moore Catering

and The River Room welcomed uber chef Andrew

Wolwowicsz to the team last fall. This talented duo

are partnering in a new and exciting project. Craft

Farmacy will open in the former Custom Cuisine

Catering on Wharncliffe Rd. this spring.

Twisted Toque Social Grill, a Canadian-themed

restaurant designed as the prototype for a national

chain, has opened at 186 King St. next door to the

popular King’s Inn Diner. www.twistedtoque.com

Thomas Waite of In Home Chef opened Spruce on

Wellington at the end of January, in the premises

formerly occupied by Willie’s Café. Waite promises that

the 32-seat restaurant (with 22 more on the back patio

in season) will provide patrons with an innovative

dining experience “unlike anything that London has

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

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seen before.” Waite and Spruce’s chef de cuisine Troy

Klungel will launch a series of weekly cooking classes

in early spring. www.theinhomechef.ca

The Gourmet Deli has opened a second downtown

location for its quick-service deli and sandwich

emporium, in the space formerly occupied by

the Queens Café across from Victoria Park. www.


Longtime fans will be glad to know Ian Kennard

let us know that he has secured a new location for

Willie’s Café and Catering. He has signed a lease with

Dave Cook and the Old East London Food Incubator

and has started moving in, although he is waiting for

a city building permit to do some minor upgrades to

the space. He hopes to be up and running again in

late March, continuing to provide catering services

and a smaller version of the Willie’s Café lunch menu

for takeout, Monday to Friday , 11am–2pm. Stay

tuned! www.williescafeandcatering.com

Edgar and Joe’s Café has opened a new satellite

location inside the Innovation Works London

building at 201 King Street. It is open weekdays

from 8am–4pm. www.edgarandjoes.ca

The new Ground Up Organic Café at Richmond &

Piccadilly offers plant-based fare, from espresso

drinks to wraps like the “No-chicken Curry Wrap.”

The menu is as much of a personal statement as a

business venture for co-owners Steve Loney and

Jamie Norman. www.thegroundupcafe.com

Rebel Remedy Fresh Bar, operated by nutritionist Julie

Kortekaas and Chef Shayna Patterson (formerly

of The Root Cellar), will open shortly at 242

Dundas St. The take-away features fresh, healthful

breakfasts and nutritious lunches, including coldpress

juices, kombucha, salads, bone broth-based

soups and Pilot Coffee. www.rebelremedy.com

Kelly Gowanlock of The Littlewood Pie Co. in

Lambeth recently sold the business to Steve and

Tracy Nakonecznyj of Spicer’s Bakery and Deli. “I’m

really looking forward getting back to having time

to play in the kitchen and creating recipes,” says

Gowanlock. “It’s in my blood, I can’t escape it.”


London Brewing Co-operative now has a retail store

and taproom on Burbrook Place in Old East Village,

where visitors can purchase 4 oz. samples and 12

oz. drinks as well as beers to take home in growlers

(1.89L), Boston rounds (950mL), and 650mL bottles.

There are also t-shirts, shirts, and sweaters for those

looking to wear their beer! Down the line they hope to

offer take-home flight paddles so you can host your

own craft beer sample parties. www.londonbrewing.ca

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Dos Tacos at 611 Richmond St. is a partnership

between two young business owners, Asaad

and Ziad, who were inspired by “gourmet” taco

restaurants they saw while on holiday. They

are currently doing renovations to the space,

and plan to keep the garage-style doors in the

storefront area.

Spuddy’s at 421 Richmond St. offers a fresh and

unique take on the traditional baked potato, and

partner Mo Kadri’s passion for his potatoes is sure

to keep customers coming back. The menu starts

with large jacket potatoes, baked to perfection.

Add a dab of butter, hot sauce, shredded cheddar

and a variety of meats, salads, condiments and

sauces according to your preferences.

Patrick’s Beans is roasting a proprietary blend

of coffee for Tourism London for Canada’s 150th

anniversary. The beans will be available at

both the Tourism London Information Centres

downtown and on Wellington Rd.

Charles and Jill Wright’s Locomotive Espresso, at

Pall Mall and Colborne, recently celebrated their

3rd anniversary. www.locomotiveespresso.com

The new 10Eighteen Coffee Bar in Old East

specializes in locally-roasted, fresh pour over

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coffee and espresso by Joe Oranato’s O’Joe in

Mount Brydges. Owners Kate Sullivan and Kirby

Collins offer butter tarts, doughnuts, sandwiches,

charcuterie and cheese boards, craft beer and

wine. www.10eighteen.ca

Squire Pub & Grill will open in the space formerly

occupied by Le Rendez-Vous at 109 Dundas Street

in March. www.squirepubandgrill.ca

The Rhino Lounge Bakery Coffee Shoppe in

Museum London offers an in-house scratch

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whole new level. You have to try their hybrid

doughnut, an homage to the cronut, available

only on Thursdays. It has a dedicated following!

And check out their vegan-inspired “Herbivore

Wednesdays.” www.rhinolounge.ca

After a $10-million renovation, the London Hilton

relaunched as a DoubleTree by Hilton property.

The former London Grill was transformed into

Blake’s Bistro and Bar, with a contemporary

look and updated menu catering to all tastes and

budgets. Try the signature AAA steaks, Pad Thai

and Conrad Burger.

The Museum of Ontario Archaeology will be celebrating

Maple Harvest season with demonstrations

of traditional harvesting methods used by Haudenosaunee

and Anishinaabec ancestors, informative

exhibits, cultural activities, treats and more on

March 11th and 12th. www.archaeologymuseum.ca

Nutrition Bites owner Sandra Venneri is one of six

women named as a Top Finalist for the Mompreneur

Startup Award. The local business specializes in

nutrition education services, including personalized

cooking lessons, birthday parties and mindful

eating workshops. Growing Up Healthy Seed-to-

Fork Kits are an innovative product that provides

a fun, food literacy activity making connections

between growing food, cooking and personal

nutrition while focusing on truly fresh, local,

wholesome ingredients. www.nutritionbites.ca

In just over a year, Boho Bake Shop has grown rapidly,

and now supplies a number of local retail stores and

cafes with healthy, plant-based baked goods. Products

can also be found at the Western Fair Farmer’s &

Artisan’s Market. The business is expanding into a new

production space in Old East Village to accommodate

further growth. www.bohobakeshop.com

Miki Hambalek of The Hungary Butcher (892

Dundas St. and at the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market

at Western Fair) now offers a weekly rotating

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer

serving London & Area with different and unique ideas



www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

product list of 56 types of fresh, handmade

sausages, using all-natural casings with no fillers

or nitrates. There is also Halal chicken on offer.

The Harvest Pantry, located on the main floor of

the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair, is a

small wares food and kitchen retailer focussing on

small batch ferments, such as sauerkraut, kimchi,

shrubs, ciders, vinegars, miso and kombucha.

Owner Val Andrews also prepares house-made

pickles and preserves like ginger-pickled golden

beets. www.theharvestpantry.com

Have you had a cruffin yet? One of Black Walnut

Bakery Café’s unique baked goods, it’s a croissantmuffin

that’s baked, rolled in sugar and piped

with seasonally-flavoured custards and creams.

Another customer favourite is the plain buttermilk

scone with ham and an egg, sunny side up. www.


Pepper Tree Spice Co., Port Stanley’s artisan spice

and herb shop, is returning to its roots and has

established a booth at the Farmers’ & Artisans’

Market at Western Fair. Owner Debbie Kussmann

is excited about this, as a great adjunct to her lovely

shop in Port. Expect a wide range of Pepper Tree

spices, using only organic and natural ingredients,

gourmet foods, kitchen and bakeware, gifts and

accessories. www.peppertreespice.com

Congratulations to Andrew and Erin Jardine, owners

of The Village Meat Shop at the Farmers’ & Artisans’

Market at Western Fair, on the latest addition to your

family. The shop offers hormone- and drug-free

Ontario beef, pork, bison, lamb and chicken from

Metzger Meat Products, Lena’s Lamb, Blanbrook

Bison Farm, Little Sisters Chicken and Glengyle

Farm Organics. www.thevillagemeatshop.ca


McCully’s Hill Farm Weekends: Sugar Bush

Tours include a wagon ride through the sugar

bush, a guided tour of the sugar shack and a visit

with the farm animals. Enjoy Pancake Brunch

served with McCully’s own maple syrup and

maple pork sausage, and maple baked beans

and fruit. Saturdays and Sundays in March. www.


Stratford salutes spring with the Swan Parade

Weekend, the quirky ritual of marching the swans

to the Avon River, April 1 & 2. www.visitstratford.


Cheese lovers, mark the week of April 1–9, as

Stratford restaurants present their signature cheese

dishes and the Canadian Dairy XPO welcomes

farmers and industry partners from around the





In the Heart of Wortley Village


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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

world. Visit CheeseFest (April 5) at the Stratford

Rotary Complex to sample a wide variety of cheeses

and learn more about Canada’s important dairy

industry. www.visitstratford.ca/cheeseweek

What began as a special occasion for Mother’s

Day last year was so popular that Bradshaws and

Revival House have paired up to present High Tea

once a month on the last Sunday of the month.

www.bradshawscanada.com & www.revival.house

On April 22 & 23, join naturalist/forager Peter

Blush as he searches forest trails for wild edibles

such as wild leeks, trout lilies, saddle mushrooms,

wild ginger and more. Learn to harvest sustainably.

Recipes will be supplied. www.pucksplenty.com

Looking for a great place for crepes? Pavillion

Coffee & Crepes on Market Place is gaining rave

reviews with a large menu of savoury and sweet

crepes, waffles and more.

Opening in the spring is SAV Eatery and

Smokehouse on Wellington Street, offering a

delicious menu and cooking classes.

Stratford Chefs School is planning to offer cooking

classes during the summer in their beautiful new

Kitchens on Ontario Street. www.stratfordchef.com

Reserve Now



The Parlour Steakhouse welcomes Executive Chef

Alan Van Heerdan, originally from South Africa,

bringing global inspiration to local ingredients.


Around Our Region

Experience the annual Kinsmen Fanshawe Sugar

Bush Maple Event every weekend in March and

during March Break. The whole family will enjoy

the guided tours, horse-drawn hayrides through

the maple groves, sap-making demonstrations and

displays. www.kinsmenfanshawesugarbush.com

The Idlewyld Inn and Hotel Metro in London and

Stratford’s The Bruce were shortlisted in TripAdvisor

Travellers’ Choice Top 25 Small Hotels – Canada.

Congratulations to Streamliners Espresso Bar at

767 Talbot Street in St. Thomas on your opening.

Drop by and check out their hand brewed Las

Chicas Del Café coffee and fresh pastries.

Kettle Creek Inn is offering two wine pairing

dinners (March 4th and April 1st). $60 per person;

four course dinner with each course perfectly

matched with its corresponding wine. On hand will

be Chef Rob Lapman and his culinary crew, as well

as Martin Gorski of Colchester Ridge Estate Winery


Come HOME to La Casa!







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across from Budweiser Gardens

519-434-2272 (CASA)


“Enjoy consistently

outstanding Italian and

International cuisine

enhanced by local and

seasonal ingredients.”

Perfect for Groups, Rehearsal Lunches & Dinners

and Small Weddings & Receptions!


Scotch Bar

Open Mon–Sat

Lunch & Dinner

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

(CREW). Reservations are strongly recommended.


Deb Benner of Heritage Line Herbs reminds us the

2017 list of potted herbs and heirloom vegetables

is now available — email heritagelineherbs2014@

gmail.com. Plants will be available at Horton Street

Market in St. Thomas in the spring. There will also be a

big supply of milkweed available. Help the butterflies

to thrive! Details on Facebook or at 519-619-2153.

The folks at Ontario’s Southwest know what people

love. The Craft Beer Cookbook has fabulous recipes

that showcase the region’s unique brews. On your next

trip to Ontario’s Southwest, visit the breweries to stock

up on the signature ingredients for these delicious

dishes. You can read the Craft Beer Cookbook online,

or download a copy at www.ontariossouthwest.com/


The Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance is “stoked

about Ontario seafood.” After you read Tracy

Turlin’s review of the Ocean Wise 2 cookbook in this

issue of Eatdrink, check out the Alliance’s website

for some local inspiration. www.ontarioculinary.


Cuvée Grand Tasting is Ontario’s only Grand Tasting

of local VQA wine. This year, the event returns to

the Scotiabank Convention Centre in Niagara Falls

on March 24. With over 50 participating wineries,

Cuvée features Ontario’s finest winemakers, each

presenting their favourite wine. In addition, top

chefs from across the province will create signature

dishes at live cooking stations. www.cuvee.ca

The King Edward in Ilderton has introduced a new

English Pale Ale to an already-strong line-up.

“Hobgoblin Gold is a crisp and dry golden ale with

a well balanced hop nose,” says owner Rich Hunter.

“It’s the perfect pairing with our latest wing flavour,

Edinburgh Nights, based on the Scottish capital’s

famous “chippy” sauce as I experienced it on an

epic 1987 pub-crawl.” Count us intrigued! www.


Cindy Taylor of Transvaal Farm and C’estbon

Cheese launched Kitchen Smidgen is St. Marys

in November. The bakery is currently open only

Friday and Saturday, but make a point to drop by.

Taylor’s cinnamon buns and scones have a bit of a

cult following already.

We want your BUZZ! Do you have culinary news

that you’d like us to share? Every issue, Eatdrink

reaches more than 50,000 readers in print, and

thousands more online. Get in touch with us at

editor@eatdrink.ca and/or with our Social Media

Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca

Experience the

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34 | March/April 2017


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

A Passion for Brewing

The Upper Thames Brewing Company in Woodstock


After visiting hundreds of craft

breweries, Carl Bloomfield had

just one thought: Woodstock

needed one. So the veteran city

firefighter and passionate craft beer drinker

started to brainstorm with a few of his

buddies. A year later the five partners

launched Upper Thames Brewing

Company, Woodstock’s first (and

so far only) craft brewer.

“It’s a passion of mine to visit

craft breweries and brew pubs,”

Bloomfield said. “I likely visited 80

to 85 in the past year and got some

great ideas.”

One of those ideas — apart from

brewing a spectrum of beer styles from IPA

to porter — was to give patrons a spacious

taproom in which to mix and mingle. It also

allows the brewery to host special events.

“Ours is the Cadillac of taprooms,” Bloomfield

said. It has a capacity of 70 people, which

is large for a craft brewery, and features

a handcrafted red maple bar with a canoe

suspended from the ceiling overhead.

The location at 225 Bysham Park Drive in

Woodstock is a former industrial space that

had to go through a rezoning process to allow

the brewery and tap room. The location was

chosen for its high ceilings, concrete floor,

and potential for expansion.

Beer production at Upper Thames is the

bailiwick of partner/brewmaster Josh Bowes,

who honed his skills as a member of the

London Homebrewers Guild. Brewer Drake

Merritt, a Niagara College graduate, was

hired by Upper Thames after wowing the

owners with a white stout recipe

he had developed

while at college.

Merritt’s recipe

for Dusk to Dawn

White Stout

was promptly

Selected in

TOP 10

Beer Bars

in Canada

March/April 2017 | 35

The spacious taproom at Upper Thames Brewing Co.

above. To the right, co-owner Carl Bloomfield.

brewed, and during January was on tap at

Upper Thames. It incorporated Sumatran

coffee beans roasted by Fire Roasted Coffee

Co. of London, and Ivory Coast cacao nibs

from Habitual Chocolate of Woodstock.

Five beers are always on the board:

Backpaddle Blonde Ale, Portage India Pale Ale,

Dead Reckoning American Pale Ale, Timber

Beast Brown Ale, and Mad River Farm House


Mad River, made with locally-sourced

Cascade hops, returned after a brief hiatus,

due to popular demand.

Backpaddle Blonde Ale has emerged as

Upper Thames’ top seller. It is sweet, not

bitter like an IPA, and uses malt from Harvest

Hop & Malt of Puslinch.

Dead Reckoning is a hopped-up version of a

classic American pale ale, with notes of cedar,

apple and pear.

Most craft brewers feel they can’t swing

open the doors without offering a hopforward,

bitter India Pale Ale. It’s often the

beer recipe by which craft brewers are judged.

Upper Thames had a hop-loving expert in


Bloomfield to help in deciding what, exactly,

the Upper Thames IPA would be like: Portage

would be an “entry-level” IPA, with bitterness

obviously present but dialled back to be

accessible to newbies, while not losing the

acceptance of hopheads.

You don’t have to be part of a club to enjoy

Upper Thames beers, but it helps. The brewery

launched its Voyageur Society Club in October.

Membership in the club, which is limited,

comes with a list of perks including first dibs

on one-off beers and access to special beertasting

events throughout the year.

Upper Thames beers are available in

64-ounce growlers at the brewery or on tap at

a handful of pubs including Wilfrid Laurier

University in Waterloo. Plans are to have

Upper Thames on tap elsewhere, including

London, and in cans at the LCBO.

Upper Thames Brewing Company

225 Bysham Park Drive, Woodstock


WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London

who enjoys writing about beer and travel.

We now have 5 varieties

available in 355mL cans.

Come pick yours up

at the brewery, today!

1030 Elias Street, London


36 | March/April 2017


Cabernet Franc

Is This Ontario’s Red Wine?

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


South Australia has shiraz. Mendoza,

in the heart of Argentina’s wine

country, has malbec. And in

California’s Napa Valley cabernet

sauvignon is king. Most new world wine

regions are identified by a grape or

style of wine.

Half of the wine exported

from Ontario is icewine, so it is

not surprising that this style of

wine is what many identify when

Canadian wine is mentioned.

Icewine accounts for less that 5%

of the wine production in Ontario

yet many other countries remain

unaware of the world-class dry wines

being produced in the province.

The Great Lakes moderate Ontario’s

climate. About forty years ago, when

Ontario grape growers began experimenting

with vinifera grapes such as cabernets, merlot,

chardonnay, and pinot noir, they discovered

that they could grow quite well in Ontario’s

soil and produce excellent dry style wines.

Two grapes that are emerging as Ontario’s

leading red grapes are cabernet franc and

pinot noir. Both do well in the region’s cool

climate, and result in dry red wines that are

starting to get attention.

Cabernet franc grows in Italy, USA, Chile,

and South Africa and is known as a blending

grape in Bordeaux, and as a single varietal

wine when produced in France’s

Chinon and Bourgueil regions in

the Loire Valley. It is the parent

grape of cabernet sauvignon,

merlot and carménère.

In Ontario cabernet franc

produces a medium bodied wine,

lighter than cabernet sauvignon.

Common aromas are white pepper,

tobacco, raspberry, violets and bell

pepper. It’s a food-friendly wine that is

versatile enough to pair well with roast

chicken, grilled beef, sausage, lamb, and

dishes with tomato sauce and camembert or

goat cheese.

Winemakers in Ontario use cabernet franc

to produce a variety of wine styles such as

rosé, ice wine, dry red single varietal and

as part of an assemblage for a dry red wine


Here are few cabernet franc wines for

your consideration.

Pelee Island 2015 Cabernet Franc

(LCBO#433714, $12.95) — This wine is

available directly from the winery and

also from most LCBO locations year

round in the Ontario VQA wine section.

While labeled as a single varietal, a

small amount of cabernet sauvignon

(15%) has been blended in, resulting

in a bit more body than one might

expect from a cabernet franc.

Ripe red fruits, cedar, silky

tannins, and lively food-friendly

acidity for versatile food pairings.

A very good, any day wine to drink.

Well worth the price!

Pelee Island 2013 Cabernet Franc

Rosé (LCBO #398982, $12.95) —

Made from 100% cabernet franc this

rosé is extra dry. Pale salmon colour,

light strawberry and raspberry notes

with crisp acidity. An excellent sipper

as we head into the warmer season.

Pairs well with charcuterie boards.

Another excellent value from Pelee

Island Winery.

Stratus 2013 Cabernet Franc (LCBO

#412759, $38.65) — Stratus winemaker J-L

Groux is originally from France’s Loire Valley.

He is known for his blending skills, yet made

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 37

this wine as a single varietal

cabernet franc. This full-bodied

red wine has a look and taste

similar to one from Saint-

Émilion in the Bordeaux

region. Dominating ripe

black berry fruits, spicy

black pepper and graphite.

In a blind tasting

one might be easily

convinced that they are

drinking an expensive

Château Cheval Blanc.

After fermentation

this wine spent 552 days

in French oak barrels.

The price may seem a

bit high for an Ontario

cabernet franc, but when compared

to the $1000 plus price tag of a Cheval Blanc

this wine is well worth it!

This wine offers excellent cellaring potential

and should drink well over the next decade.

Cabernet franc grapes at harvest. Photo courtesy of Ontario Ministry of Agriculture

fine expression of a red blend using grapes from

Ontario’s Lake Erie North Shore wine region.

Good complexity with ripe black berry, black

cherry, tobacco, and pencil shavings and refined

tannins. A good value for a wine of this quality.

Muscedere Vineyards 2012 Meritage

(Winery only, $30) — Meritage is a blend of at

least two red or white grapes that result in a

Bordeaux style assemblage. The red grapes for

a VQA wine in Ontario

can be cabernet sauvignon,

merlot, cabernet

franc, malbec and petit


2012 was an exceptional

year for red

wine in Ontario. Hot

summer days and cool nights, with just the

right amount of rain, resulted in an early harvest

of fully ripe red grapes.

Muscedere’s meritage is a blend of merlot,

cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. This is a

Henry of Pelham 2013 Cabernet

Icewine (LCBO# 672402, $39.95)

— Made from cabernet franc grapes

harvested from Henry of Pelham’s Short

Hills Bench vineyards in Niagara and

fermented to 9.5% alcohol/volume, this

sweet wine offers vibrant strawberry,

red cherry and raspberry notes. A

hint of spice and well-balanced acidity

provides a backbone for the sweetness.

It pairs well with dark chocolate and

soft mild cheese.

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who

loves to talk, taste and write about wine. He shares his

wine tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

Your love of all things Italian begins at



519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com

38 | March/April 2017


Cheers, Canada!

Canadian Cocktails?

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


Thanks to the antics of Bob and Doug

McKenzie back in the 90’s, there’s

a stereotype of Canadians as beer

drinkers. Others might think of the

Great White North when they reach for a sip

of ice wine or a dram of Canadian Club rye

whiskey, or that great Canadian invention, the

Bloody Caesar. But with the 150th anniversary

of Confederation upon

us, maybe it’s time for

us to raise the cocktail

glasses. Ontario is home

to a number of distilleries

whose output mixologists

and chefs are putting to

use — especially this year,

with special concoctions to celebrate our

national anniversary.

At the recent London Food & Wine Show

guests were presented with some interesting

takes on mixology. The Western Fair District

hospitality services, under the guidance

of Chef Kyle Fee (who is also an instructor

at Fanshawe College’s culinary program),

brought forward a very entertaining offering.

Chef Fee combined a local treat, London

Ice Cream, with cider. Salty Caramel ice

cream is blended with apple cider (Peller

Estates No Boats on Sunday craft apple

cider is outstanding), poured into a glass

that has been rimmed with brown sugar and

cinnamon, and topped with a bit more ice

cream and beer, to create

a very Canadian float. I

wonder if the people running

the Apple Pie Trail in the

Blue Mountains around

Collingwood will have this on

the menu soon?

Icewine Martini

Local craft breweries such

as Cowbell in Blyth are mixing

up cocktails using beer and

spirits. Glassroots on Richmond Street in

London uses Cowbell’s Country Kolsch with

vodka to make a Caesar beer cocktail. It also

has a beer-topped Old Fashioned, one of the

several classic mixed drinks which have seen a

revival of late.

If you are a strawberry fan, Dillon’s Small

Batch Distillers in Beamsville sells Strawberry

Gin — delightful on the rocks, or in an appropriately

coloured gin and tonic

for your Canada Day celebrations.

Whitney Rorison has the fantastic

job of being Hospitality Manager

at Dillon’s. With that job came

the not-so-fantastic task of

cleaning, by hand, 84 flats of

strawberries last summer from

Tigchelaar Farms in Jordan.

The result is proudly called,

“strawberries locked into a

bottle to enjoy year-round.”

Dillon’s also offers cherry

and rose gins that can hold

up on their own as liqueurs

or in fruit-based cocktails. Rose Gin is made

with rose hips and petals. For those with a

tarter taste preference, Dillon’s Limoncello

is popular and also perfect with vodka for

a Lemon Drop Martini. Don’t forget to rim

the glass with sugar. All Dillon’s spirits are

made with no artificial colourings or flavours.

The tasting room is a nice stop en route to

Niagara’s wine country.

In Niagara, icewine infused cocktails are

all the rage. Warning —

these carry a wallop. The

icewine martini is equal

parts icewine and vodka,

shaken on ice and served

with frozen grapes.

Variations include the

icewine cosmopolitan,

which uses the same

ingredients plus Grand

Marnier. Sip, don’t gulp!

Two of the most patriotic drinkers in

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 39

Canada are Scott McCallum and

Victoria Walsh. Their Field Guide

to Canadian Cocktails (Appetite by

Random House, 2015) is a wonderful

read on how they drank their way

across the country. It includes recipes

and listings of craft distilleries along

with stories on the history of spirits

in Canada.

Cheers, Canada. Here’s to a great

year of celebrations! We plan to tell

more stories of Canadian spirits in

future issues.

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular

contributor to Eatdrink, covering

a multitude of topics. She is also

Manager, Communications & Media

Relations at King’s University

College, London.

Recipes and photos excerpted

from A Field Guide to Canadian

Cocktails by Victoria Walsh and

Scott McCallum. Appetite by

Random House, 2015.

Arctic Martinez

This northern twist on a classic Martinez uses an Arctic

Rose Vermouth Reduction — which produces a beautiful

pale-pinkish hue reminiscent of a sunset over Arctic snow.

The delicate Arctic Rose (AKA Wild Rose) is a variety that

grows wild in almost every Canadian province and into the

northern territories.

Makes 1 drink

2 oz (60 ml) Arctic Rose Vermouth

1 oz (30 ml) gin

1 tsp (5 ml) Aperol

handful of ice cubes

1 edible dried rose petal, preferably Arctic rose,

for garnish

Pour all ingredients, except ice and garnish, into a mixing

glass. Add ice and stir until chilled.

Strain through a julep strainer into a chilled coupe glass.

Garnish with rose petal.


Place 4 cups (960 ml) white sweet vermouth and 12 edible

dried rose buds, preferably Arctic rose, in a large


Set over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to

medium. Gently boil until reduced to exactly 2 cups

(480 ml) including roses, about 45 minutes. Remove

from heat and let cool completely. Fine strain through

a funnel lined with several layers of cheesecloth.

Reduction will keep, sealed and refrigerated, for 1 month.

Makes 14 oz (420 ml).

Hot Buttered Rum

This riff on the classic Hot Buttered Rum is brightened by

the use of a compound butter that blends salted butter and

bakeapple. If you can’t get your hands on bakeapple, plain

butter (instead of the compound butter) will do the trick.

Makes 6 drinks

4 cups apple cider, preferably unsweetened

12 oz. Newfoundland Screech Rum or dark rum

4 tsp chilled Bakeapple Compound Butter (recipe

below) or 4 tsp chilled salted butter + 1 Tbsp


6 cinnamon sticks, for garnish (optional)

Set out 6 warmed heatproof mugs or Irish coffee glasses.

Pour 2 oz (60 ml) screech into each mug.

If using compound butter, omit honey. If using regular

butter, spoon ½ tsp (2.5 ml) honey into each mug.

Pour 2⁄3 cup (160 ml) warm cider into each mug.

Thinly slice compound or regular butter.

Top each drink with a little butter. Garnish with cinnamon

sticks, if you like.


In a small bowl, stir 1 tbsp (15 ml) room-temperature

butter, preferably lightly salted, with 1 tsp (5 ml)

bakeapple or apple jelly.

Mound on top of plastic wrap and roll into a small log.

Wrap and refrigerate until chilled.

Compound butter will keep, sealed and refrigerated, for up

to 2 weeks. Makes 4 tsp.

40 | March/April 2017

Various Musical Notes

Lions and Lambs

On the music scene this spring

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


Spring is around the corner, London.

Truly it is. And with it comes some

great music. The Dixie Chicks are

here,The Lumineers, Tom Cochrane, the

Gypsy Kumbia

Orchestra ...

Wait, gypsy



enters like a

lion, with latter-day



Plan playing

London Music

Hall, Saturday

the 11th (7 p.m., no prices yet). They’re

touring their fifth studio album, Taking One

For The Team, with its cool cover shot of the

lads dressed as punk athletes. Expect a highenergy


If you’re craving something a little more

traditional, Clan Hannigan is at the Cuckoo’s

Nest Folk Club (Chaucer’s Pub) on Sunday,

March 12 (7:30 p.m.,$20/$25). Clan Hannigan is

Steafan Hannigan, partner Saskia Tomkins and

their three kids. The Cobourg-based outfit plays

“mostly” Celtic music, the girls Irish-dance,

they all play instruments. They have a ball.

With the London Knights out of town,

Budweiser Gardens sets up a mid-March

musical hat trick.

On Saturday, March 18, it’s country star

Chris Stapleton, on his first Canadian

tour since releasing Traveller, his Grammywinning

debut album. Stapleton was

already a songwriter (six #1 hits), bandsman

(SteelDrivers) and session musician. Now he’s

a mega solo star. Nashville-based Canadian

singer-songwriter Lindi Ortega opens (7:30

p.m., $52-$72).

Multiple-Grammy-winning Hall of Famers

Green Day play the Bud on Sunday, March

19 (8:00 p.m., $41.50-$87.50) — another

dose of punk to wake you from your winter

lethargy. They’re touring Revolution Radio,

released in October. The LA Times called it

Green Day

“a barnstormer of a new punk record,”USA

Today, “a bracing return to form.” ’Nuff said?

Finally, indie-folk trio The Lumineers

play the Knight’s barn, Wednesday, March

22 (7:00 p.m., $37.50-$74.50). Have a listen to

Chris Stapleton

The Lumineers

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

their second studio album, Cleopatra, released

last April (goo.gl/p0CfEU). It’s infectious,

poignant ... luminous.

For a dose of sweet-and-funny, catch

harmonizing folk duo Dala at Aeolian Hall on

March 24 (7 p.m./8 p.m., $25/$30). The duo —

childhood besties Amanda Walther and Sheila

Carabin from Scarborough — sing like angels

and go for the giggles between songs. They

were great fun at Home County a couple of

years ago.

Still in a folky vein, London Music Club

offers up Australian newcomer Daniel

Champagne, Friday March 24 (8 p.m./8:30

p.m., $12/$15). A songwriter and “unique

guitar virtuoso,” Champagne is a big deal

at home. Now he’s on a world tour with his

album, The Heartland Hurricanes. Your

chance to see the next Nick Cave?


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Saturday, March 11

Vancouver’s Ultimate Party Band

World Music

& Jazz Series

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acher Flyer (2016)



(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS)



Friday, April 7

ced piano/theory teacher now accepting new ALARM students into professional

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London Music Hall of Fame, 182 Dundas St

, active musician, established in the community FUNK

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Wednesday, April 26

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London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave

Tickets at londonmusichall.com

All Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian

Hall , 795 Dundas St ., London

Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long & McQuade North,

Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca

Develop skills & a love for music


Daniel Champagne

Revival House in Stratford continues its

Friday-night dinner-and-concert series.

The Small Glories — Cara Luft (late of the

Wailin’ Jennies) and JD Edwards –are there

on March 24. Minstrel Craig Cardiff is in on

April 7. Then it’s American singer-songwriter

Joe Crookson, with Toronto-based husband-

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher

now accepting new students

Individual Instruction for All Ages

Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging

Home-based Professional Music Studio

Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation

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Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)

North London

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Tom Cochrane

and-wife folk duo The Young Novelists, on

April 28. ($25 concerts only, $35 with dinner.)

March does not go out like a lamb. Not with

vintage rocker Tom Cochrane and his Mad

Mad World Tour playing Kitchener’s Centre

in the Square, Tuesday March 28 (8 p.m.,

$39.50-$79.50). Cochrane released his iconic

Mad Mad World album 25 years ago. To mark

its quarter-century, he’s touring with his old

band, Red Rider, playing the entire album live.

A fan’s delight.

For jazz buffs, it’s slim pickings this spring

(so far). Except for good ol’ Jazz For The

People. It keeps chugging along with its series

of free concerts at the Wolf Performance Hall

(Central Library). London vocalist Laurraine

Segouin and The Ken Foster Quartet

appear Wednesday, March 29 at 7:15 p.m. Then

on April 26, it’s Group of Seven, another

London outfit. Did we mention it’s free?

Country fans will want to head to Brantford

on March 29 (about 70 minutes away.) The

Sanderson Centre has country darling Terri

Clark, a multiple Juno and CCMA award

winner, and the only Canadian regular at the

Grand Ol’ Opry (8:00 p.m., $46/$56). Clark,

with hits such as “Better Things To Do,” “Poor

Poor Pitiful Me,” “and “Northern Girl,” is a

certified Big Deal in country and her opening

act, Jessica Mitchell, is an exciting up-andcomer.

Definitely worth the drive.

Here’s an interesting concept: father and

son duo Bill and Joel Plaskett. Joel, the

alt-rocker familiar to CBC radio listeners and

aficionados of his band Emergency, teams

up with one of his biggest musical influences,

Dad. They’re everywhere this spring,

promoting their Solidarity CD. Catch them at

Aeolian Hall April 12 and 13, with guests the

Mayhemingways (7 p.m./8 p.m., $30/$35).

The Dixie Chicks

Or Thursday, May 4 at Dominion Telegraph

in Paris, Ontario (7:00 p.m., $45). Or May 5 at

Bayfield Town Hall (7:00 p.m., $39.55).

High-energy all-girl alt country band the

Dixie Chicks hits the Bud on Tuesday, April

18 (7:30 p.m., $71-$141). We’re wondering what

the Chicks have to say about the Donald. If

they were “ashamed” of George W. Bush, what

must they think of Trump?

Gypsy Kumbia Orchestra

And finally, yes, Gypsy Kumbia

Orchestra: Saturday, May 13 at Aeolian

Hall (7 p.m./8 p.m., $25/$30.)Who are they?

Imagine a mash-up of Afro-Caribbean,

Balkan brass and Roma fiddles, with dancing,

colourful costumes and energy overload.

That’s GKO — definitely not your average


Bill and Joel Plaskett

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 43

The Classical Beat

The Show Must Go On

Stars are stepping up, and shining


The musicians of #WePlayOn

celebrated the beginning of 2017

with a new name and a new general

manager. Violinist Andrew Chung

took over the administrative reins of the newly

named London Symphonia at the end of

January and is already looking ahead to next

season. But before then, London Symphonia

has two distinctly different musical experiences

to offer audiences this spring.

On March 15 members of the orchestra

will join Payadora Tango Ensemble for a

journey through the seductive world of tango,

at Museum London. A month later, on April 9,

Stratford Shakespeare Festival music director

Franklin Brasz leads a stellar cast of Festival

performers in an afternoon of music from

the Broadway stage at Metropolitan United

Church. Tickets for both concerts are available

online at the orchestra’s new website: www.

londonsymphonia.ca and Chung hopes to

have the details for London Symphonia’s first

full season finalized before the April matinee.

Payadora Tango Ensemble

Concerts this March. Unfortunately a

scheduling conflict meant this busy superstar

had to bow out — but all is not lost. Another

rising Canadian star, soprano Marie-Josée

Lord, has stepped in to save the day. Lord

and pianist Hugues Cloutier will present a

program of traditional spirituals and songs by

Gershwin and Bernstein at Wolf Performance

Hall, March 25. www.jefferyconcerts.com

Marie-Josée Lord

Fans of period performance are in for a treat

when Tafelmusik’s Ontario Tour: Visions

& Voyages, Canada 1663–1763, makes a

stop at Aeolian Hall, March 28. Described

by Tafelmusik marketing manager, Peter

Harte, as “a multimedia concert exploring

a fascinating century of Canadian history,”

this multi-dimensional program designed

by Alison Mackay weaves together images of

maps and works of art, diplomatic dispatches,

“Our goal is to offer six events next year,”

he says. “We won’t be performing as a fullsized

orchestra every time. We want to be

a community-centric orchestra, so we’ll be

branching into smaller formations to create

different musical experiences.”

London-born tenor Andrew Haji was to

have made his local debut with The Jefferey

44 | March/April 2017

and orchestral works by Purcell, Lully and

Handel. The evening features special guests,

narrator Brian Cunningham of Native

Performing Arts, and choreographer and

dancer Brian Solomon. www.aeolianhall.ca

The Karen Schuessler Singers are also

celebrating the sounds of Canada with a

multi-media performance, April 1 at Wesley-

Knox United Church.

Love in a Canoe: Celebrating Canada at

150 is a bit like taking a musical trip across

the country, says KSS music director Karen

Schuessler. “We’ll be performing songs

people know and love,” she says. The program

includes music inspired and composed by First

Nations artists and Canadian folk singers

like Ian and Sylvia Tyson, Stan Rogers, and

Gordon Lightfoot.

Guitarist and award-winning music

producer Paul Mills will make a special guest

appearance, and the evening will wrap up with

an audience sing-along to Leonard Cohen’s

Hallelujah. “It will be the sort of concert

to make you feel proud to be Canadian,”

promises Schuessler. www.kssingers.com

Paul Mills

Serenata Music marks the end of its

season with a long-awaited return visit by

internationally-acclaimed pianist Sara Davis

Buechner, May 6 at Wolf Performance Hall.

With a huge amount of repertoire at her

fingertips, Buechner’s program may be a

bit of an impromptu performance. “Mozart

is one of her favourite composers, and her

interpretations are scintillating in their

grasp of the composer’s wit, demand for

dexterity, and sensitivity in the poignant

moments,” notes Serenata Music director

Renée Silberman. “She will move on to a

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

bravura work from the Romantic portion of

the nineteenth century, and then it is likely

that she will make a survey of some twentieth

century jazz-inflected material.”

Sara Davis Buechner

Buechner last graced the Serenata stage

in 2007, and Silberman says excitement is

already building for her return. “Sara’s playing

expresses fearlessness about life and art,” she

says. “Her performances radiate outward from

the stage and electrify her audiences.” www.


If you, or someone you know, is a string player

in Grade 11 through university undergraduate,

Western 360 Summer Music Festival is

looking for you.

London’s newest chamber music

festival runs August 10 to 13 and will

offer 50 successful applicants coaching by

internationally-renowned faculty, workshops

on everything from The Alexander Technique

to building a professional website, and public

concerts by Ensemble Made in Canada

(August 11), Western faculty members (August

12) and festival participants (August 13).

“We are not necessarily looking for

competition winners, or even people aiming

for a professional career in music, but

students who are curious to learn about

things that aren’t necessarily covered in a

typical lesson,” says festival executive director,

Thea Boyd. The deadline for application is

March 19. www.music.uwo.ca/events/360-summerfestival/application.html

NICOLE LAIDLER is a former classical musician who

has been writing about London’s cultural scene for more

than a decade. To see what else she’s been up to visit www.


The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 45


Feeling the Cold?

Here are some dramatic diversions


It may feel like the dead of winter, but

there are plenty of reasons to leave your

cocoon and head to see some heartwarming

theater during March and April.

Art by Yasmina Reza, presented by special

arrangement with Dramatists Play Service,

Inc., New York and Directed by Nigel Shawn

Williams, runs at the Grand Theatre until

March 11 th . A study of beauty being in the eye

of the beholder — or — there’s no accounting

for taste, this

Tony awardwinning


explores the

idea of what,

if anything,


art, and



will be excited to put down their latest book

and head to the Grand. The best-selling

novel, Colony of Unrequited Dreams by Wayne

Johnston is adapted for the stage at The

Grand Theatre March 21 to April 8 th . This is

an especially timely look at Canadian history

during Canada’s 150 th anniversary year. The

play, with jazz music backup, examines the

story of Newfoundland’s former, and famous,

premier Joey Smallwood. Colin Furlong

portrays the man some called the last Father

of Confederation. The book was adapted for

the stage by Robert Chafe. The play is directed

by Jillian Keiley.

The Pacheco Theatre company, based in

London, takes to Procunier Hall at the Palace




Afraid of



This production

of the




a troubled relationship runs March 1–11 th .

Rated 18+ for language and mature subject


Things lighten up at the Palace Theatre

over March Break when the London Youth

Theatre presents The Addams Family on the

main stage. This is a musical version of the

popular 1960’s television show, directed by

Ruth Noonan with music directed by Kristina


London history comes alive at the Palace

with The Triumph of Teresa Harris. Written by

local London poet, novelist and playwright

Penn Kemp, the adventures of the youngest

member of the wealthy Harris family of Eldon

House in London is told March 22 to 25 th in

Procunier Hall at the Palace.

A busy month at the Palace winds up

46 | March/April 2017

on March 26 th with a matinee, A Forever

Frozen Story, presented by TOHU-BOHU

productions. This musical is inspired by Hans

Christian Andersen’s original fairy tale “The

Snow Queen.” The production company states

that the show “is not based in any way on

Disney’s animated motion picture Frozen.”

Still, it looks like some family fun to welcome


For those who loved it at the London Fringe

Festival (or missed it and want a chance to

see it), check out Submerged by Vivien Adler,

presented by Banished by the King at The Arts

Project March 2 to 4 th .

All you would ever want to know about

belly dancing is the interesting theme of

Best Kept Secrets presented by Rising Moon

Bellydance at The Arts Project on April

7 th . Artists from

London, Woodstock,

Kitchener, Guelph,

and Hamilton,

in a variety of

costumes, will

tell stories

through dance.

Dance and song

wraps up March at

Budweiser Gardens with the Broadway in London

series, Annie. This much-loved Broadway

blockbuster is sure to chase away the winter

blahs with sugar-coated optimism about “Tomorrow.”

Annie is on stage at Bud Gardens on

March 23 rd .

The King’s Players at King’s University

College present The Real Inspector Hound

March 29 to April 1 st . The whodunit one act

play will be performed in the historic Dante

Lenardon Hall on campus.

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

presented by

Hidden Talents,

then takes to the

Imperial Theatre

from April 19 to

22 nd .

Singing in

the Rain will be

playing at St.

Jacob’s Country

Playhouse March

22 to April 15 th .

Classic musical

theatre presented

by Drayton


There are two musical theatre shows to

get your toes tapping at the Port Stanley

Festival Theatre in March and April. Patsy

Cline and the Queens of Country runs twice

on March 11 th . Bandstand Revisited with

Dick Clark (tribute) has two shows on

April 22 nd . Both are presented by Bill Culp


You know it’s spring when previews

start at the Stratford Festival! Guy and

Dolls previews begin April 15 at The

Festival Theatre. Donna Feore directs

and choreographs this musical comedy. The

production dances its way from New York to

Havana in a battle of the sexes.

Around the region

Alfred Hitchcock fans will want to head to

Sarnia’s Imperial Theatre. The 39 Steps is

presented by Theatre Sarnia from March 31

to April 8 th . A cast of four bravely presents

150 characters in a comedic whodunit. Glee,

A new adaptation of Robert Louis Stevenson’s

Treasure Island begins previews on April 22 at

the Avon Theatre. Juan Chiroan as Long John

Silver is a much anticipated performance of the

season at Stratford. This will be a world première

of Nicolas Billon’s adaptation, commissioned by

the Stratford Festival and directed by Mitchell


JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink

magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media

Relations, at King’s University College in London.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine March/April 2017 | 47


The Ocean Wise Cookbook 2

More seafood recipes that are good for the planet

Edited by Jill Mundy

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

With so much


available about

food these days,

it’s sometimes difficult to know

which choices to make. Since

I can be finicky about fish, I

struggle to get more seafood

in my diet. Add in the larger

issue of sustainability and

it’s enough to make you

throw in the kitchen towel.

Freelance writer, editor

and photographer Jane

Mundy has made these

choices easier with the publication of The

Ocean Wise Cookbook 2; More seafood recipes

that are good for the planet. Ocean Wise is a

Vancouver Aquarium conservation initiative

that partners with restaurants and suppliers

of seafood products that commit to offering

more sustainable options to their customers.

A seafood source is deemed Ocean Wise if

it meets four criteria relating to abundance,

management and method of harvest. This

list is continually updated so a fish that is

Ocean Wise today (or at the time of writing

the book) should be checked

before purchase to ensure

that it hasn’t fallen to Not

Recommended status. This

can be done easily at www.

oceanwise.ca. There’s an

abundance of information

here; it’s worth taking the time

to explore.

Since the release of the

original Ocean Wise cookbook

in 2010, the movement

to promote sustainable,

responsibly sourced food has

grown by leaps and bounds.

More chefs across the

country are preparing

food that matters before

it hits the plate, and

customers are loving the


I enjoyed the things I

learned from this book as

much as I liked the dishes.

I found information about

many types of seafood, some

that were new to me. Substitutions

are encouraged to

ensure sustainable choices.

There are even a few dishes

using canned fish. Adventurous

cooking techniques are demystified

and safety tips are offered if you prefer

your seafood raw. There are instructions for

home made condiments like Blueberry Pickle

and Black Olive Powder that are used in later

recipes but are versatile enough to become

pantry staples.

Ocean Wise 2 is truly a beginner-toadvanced

book. Mundy has taken restaurant

recipes compiled from chefs across Canada

and made them accessible to the home cook.

They are rated by difficulty,

so you can choose which

to make for a week night

dinner and which to save

for a Sunday afternoon with

lots of preparation time. I’m

including one of each here

for you.

My “gotta make this as

soon as possible” dish is

the Grilled Lingcod Tacos,

Goddess Sauce and Summer

Coleslaw. This dish is so easy

Editor Jane Mundy

48 | March/April 2017

it almost cooks itself. It also includes my

favourite hot sauce and satisfies my obsession

with tacos. I may not wait until summer to

grill this one up.

My “I’m going to pretend I’m going to

make this someday” recipe is Dungeness

Crab Ravioli. Hand made ravioli is filled with

crab meat, ricotta cheese and a perfect egg

yolk and served with a rich, creamy bisque

and garlic breadcrumbs. I may not get brave

enough to tackle this one anytime soon but I’ll

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

savour every minute thinking about it.

It’s this contrast that makes Ocean Wise 2

a great book if you are looking for something

fancy to impress someone on date night or you

are simply trying to get your kids to eat a better

kind of fish stick. Take the plunge, you’ll be

hooked. (You know I had to go there.)

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Recipes and photos excerpted from The Ocean Wise Cookbook 2, edited by Jane Mundy.

Grilled Lingcod Tacos, Goddess Sauce

and Summer Coleslaw

Chef Chris Mills, Joey Restaurant Group, Vancouver

Serves 4

These fish tacos are authentic, simple to make, and

a perfect summer meal. Sauces are the key to great

tacos. With this recipe you make one, the Goddess

Sauce, and buy one, the Valentina hot sauce.

TIP: I use new wooden clothes pins to keep the tacos


SUBSTITUTIONS: Pacific halibut or any firm-fleshed

fish. You can substitute your favourite hot sauce here

for the Valentina.


½ cup (125 mL) Mayonnaise (p. 16)

1 Tbsp (15 mL) chopped green onions

1 Tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh Italian parsley

½ tsp (2 mL) chopped garlic

1 Tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

½ tsp (5 mL) dried tarragon

1 anchovy fillet, chopped (optional)


Black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor, blending

until smooth.


3 cups (750 mL) thinly sliced green cabbage

½ cup (125 mL) peeled and grated carrot

¼ cup (60 mL) thinly sliced red onion

¼ cup (60 mL) chopped and loosely packed


¼ cup (60 mL) rice wine vinegar

2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil

¼ tsp (1 mL) sea salt

Place cabbage, carrots and red onions in a colander; rinse

thoroughly with cold water to crisp. Allow to drain for 5

minutes. Meanwhile, whisk cilantro, vinegar, oil and salt

in a large bowl. Add vegetables. Toss well to coat.


1 lb (450 g) lingcod, cut into strips


Black pepper

Twelve 6-inch (15 cm) white corn tortillas

¼ cup (60 mL) grated cheddar cheese

2 avocados, diced

1 cup (250 mL) shredded lettuce

½ cup (125 mL) diced tomatoes

¼ cup (60 mL) diced white onions

¼ cup (60 mL) Goddess Sauce

3 Tbsp (45 mL) Valentina hot sauce

Grill fish on the barbecue with salt and pepper until it is

just cooked, about 90 seconds per side. (Or heat 1 Tbsp /

15 mL olive oil in a heavy, large skillet and panfry until

cooked through.) Meanwhile, place the tortillas spread

out on a preheated barbecue with grated cheese on them.

Spoon a teaspoon of Goddess Sauce onto the cheese

and place the cooked fish on top. Pile the remaining

ingredients on top of each individual taco and gently fold

them in half. Finish with a drizzle of Valentina hot sauce.

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market

Saturdays, 9am–1pm, through April 8

Our outdoor Farmers’ Market remains

indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine. We grow

it, raise it, make it & bake it —

local produce, meat, cheese,

wine and more! Vendor

sampling takes place on the

main floor, Centre Court,

10am–1pm. FREE

Cooking Classes run

from 11am–noon upstairs

in the Market Kitchen. Live

music from 10am–noon.

Recipe Samples from Jill’s Table

Thursdays, 11:45am–1:15pm

The market has partnered with the expert

cooks at Jill’s Table for a weekly dish featuring

market ingredients. Great suggestions for

meals, soups, salads, desserts and more! Try

the food, pick up a recipe.

Outdoor Easter Market

Saturday, April 15, 8am–1pm

Enjoy out annual Easter

market tradition!

Free Parking

2 Hours Saturday & Sunday, ½ hour Weekdays

Outdoor Farmers’ Market

Opening Day is Saturday, May 6. Join us!


Serve with a side of coleslaw and the remaining Goddess

Sauce in a small bowl. Leftover Goddess Sauce will keep

refrigerated for up to 1 week, and goes well with just about

any white fish.


Light and just slightly spicy, these fish tacos are best

paired with crisp dry white wine like a Sauvignon Blanc,

Pinot Blanc or a lighter style Chardonnay.

50 | March/April 2017

Dungeness Crab Ravioli

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

Chef Tim Evans, The Cascade Room and Charlie’s Little

Italian, Vancouver

This dish appears on the feature sheet at Charlie’s Little

Italian in the late summer during peak crab season.

Serves 4 mains or 8 appetizers.


Lobster or shrimp meat for the crab or you can use

spinach instead for vegetarians. “00” flour is an Italian

measurement that indicates how finely ground the flour is

and how much of the bran and germ have been removed.

00 is best for making pasta but all-purpose flour will do.

the dough looks a little dry,

add a small amount of water

until it comes together. If

it looks a little wet, add a

touch more flour.

After 5 minutes the dough

should be smooth and have

elasticity. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate

for 1 hour.



2 cups (500 mL)

ricotta cheese

2 pinches of kosher


Pinch of black


1 lemon, juiced and


¼ cup (60 mL) fresh

chopped tarragon

1 cup (250 mL)

Dungeness crab


8 free range egg


Mix all ingredients in

a mixing bowl. Make

sure texture is even and

refrigerate until ready

to use.


2 eggs

2 Tbsp (30 mL) extra

virgin olive oil

2 pinches of kosher


2 cups (500 mL) 00


2 egg yolks

Mix eggs, olive oil and

salt. Pour flour into a

large mixing bowl and

create a well in the

middle with a fork. Pour

egg mixture into flour

and gently fold in sides

with the fork until dough

starts to form. Knead the

dough for 5 minutes. If

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

After pasta dough has rested, roll out in pasta machine or

with rolling pin until fingertips can be just seen through

the dough. Cut into 16 large 4-inch (10 cm) squares.

Lay out 8 pasta squares. Place 2 Tbsp (30 mL) of ricotta

mixture into the centre of each one.

Make a well in the centre of the ricotta with the back of

a spoon and place in egg yolk being very careful not to

break it. Wet edges of pasta square with a little egg yolk

or water and press the remaining squares on top to form

the raviolo.

Press gently but firmly around the edge of each raviolo to

seal and make sure water cannot enter.

Poach the ravioli in simmering salty water for 2–3 minutes

until tender.


1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion

1 cup (250 mL) chopped celery

1 cup (250 mL) chopped carrot

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 Tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste

1 Tbsp (15 mL) brandy

4 cups (1 L) crab or Fish Stock (p. 14)

2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream

In a saucepan, cook onion, celery, carrot and garlic

until translucent. Add tomato paste and cook out until

thickened and coating vegetables. Add brandy to deglaze.

Add stock and reduce by half then add cream and reduce

by half. Strain and keep warm.


1 cup (250 mL) panko

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ tsp (2 mL) extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Black pepper

Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C).

Stir ingredients into breadcrumbs and toast in oven for 3

minutes or until golden brown.

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Olive oil

Italian parsley

Place two raviolo in each bowl and poor over bisque.

Garnish with garlic bread crumbs, olive oil and Italian

parsley, as desired.


Di Lenardo, Pinot Grigio.


• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken

• Glengyle Farm Organics

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm

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52 | March/April 2017


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag

When the Moon Hits Your Eye

Slice Harvester: A Memoir in Pizza

by Colin Atrophy Hagendorf

Review by DARIN COOK

Some people have

the guts to take on


projects that become

bigger than themselves. Setting

out to eat at every pizzeria in

New York City seems to be

one of these undertakings,

but the magnitude of it did

not dissuade Colin Atrophy

Hagendorf. At first, he was

hesitant about liberating the

idea from the safety of just

being an idea, to something

for the greater good of pizza

lovers everywhere. Even

standing before the first

pizzeria for his inaugural slice, Hagendorf had

reservations about following through with

the plan. But on that first day he hit seven

pizzerias; most of them were not good, but

the last one gave him hope to carry on.

From August 2009 to November 2011,

Hagendorf became known as The Slice

Harvester, a self-proclaimed “mozzarellafueled

superhero” warning “fellow citizens

against inferior pizza” by consuming 435

different slices across the city. He documented

each visit in a notebook and published

them on his Slice

Harvester blog, along

with a quarterly

print version zine.

His book, Slice

Harvester: A Memoir

in Pizza (Simon

& Schuster, 2015,

$30.00), that came

out after the project

was completed, is

different than his

blog and zine, which

focused on each slice as

the research unfolded.

The book does have

snippets of the best

and worst slices he had,

but is more about what

he was going through

personally on his pizza

mission. Hagendorf is not a

mainstream guy: he is antiyuppie,


anti-Billy Joel and, since his

teen years, his punk lifestyle

has been as formative to his

character as pizza. He was

dedicated to his project like

nothing he had set his mind to

before, trying to put his unique

mark on the world, all the while fighting

hangovers, battling past demons, and dealing

with relationship commitment issues. He

writes: “All I had ever wanted as a kid was to

create something that would resonate with

people — and here I was, doing just that.”

He often attended his harvesting sessions

with other friends, mostly punk musicians

or zine artists, but also had one memorable

experience with actress Phoebe Cates and

her teenage daughter. He put in a lot of miles

during tasting days,

often hitting up

to eight or nine

pizzerias in a few

blocks. He dropped

into places with

names like Pizza

Palace, Grandpa’s

Brick Oven Pizza,

Amadeus Pizzeria,

and Hell’s Kitchen

Colin Atrophy Hagendorf




Where will you dine?

25% of sales will be

donated to RHAC.

25% des ventes seront

reversées à RHAC.

Pizza, and reminds his readers to never judge

“a slice by its storefront.” He might have had

a nearly perfect slice in one pizzeria and one

block away had one that made him throw up

(yes, that happened once).

He ordered a plain cheese slice (or “a regular

slice” in New York parlance) at each location

to keep a consistent comparison. Each slice

was given an overall rating out of 8, based on

certain qualities: sauce flavor, dough quality,

cheese flavor, ratio of ingredients, aftertaste,

temperature (he prefers reheated, rather than

fresh out of the oven), structural integrity

(being able to eat it on the go), and value for

the price. His ideal slice could be described as

“tangy, not-too-sweet sauce, crisp crust, good

quality cheese, all working together in the

delicate balance of ratios that separates a great

slice from a mediocre one.” Even with several

of the 435 slices fitting this description, Pizza

Suprema, with such accolades from his blog as

“the ratios on this slice were superb” and “the

crust’s flavor was unstoppable”, was the only

restaurant that received a perfect 8 during his

entire pizza journey.

His project gained traction and attention

from the media. He was acknowledged for

his work by the pizzerias themselves (at least

those with glowing reviews). People started

using his reviews as a way of knowing where

to go for good pizza in certain parts of the

city. He was being taken seriously for pizza

advice, generating a following of people

interested in pizza culture. The harvesting of

pizza gave him a purpose in life that he had

been avoiding thus far.

The memoir goes beyond pizza ratings,

however, and the discipline involved in his

project caused other revelations to arise in

his life, like reconciling with his parents years

after being an unkind teenager, admitting that

his method of looking for love through online

dating may be misguided, and recognizing that

a clean and sober path might be a better way

to get his life out of a rut. After completing his

two-year project, a combination of success,

fame, and true love prompted him to come

clean with his addictions and to control his life

in a way that may not have come about if not

for his love of pizza.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham

who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the

bookstores and restaurants of London.

54 | March/April 2017

The Lighter Side

Just Eat It!

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag


Edna Staebler coined the phrase Food

That Really Schmecks, which is also

the title of her cookbook series based

on Mennonite home cooking. While

I’m not a Mennonite, my Dutch genes have

helped me to be a pretty good cook. My ex

might argue that point, but that is why he

is my ex. My current spouse shakes his head

at my ex’s opinion of my cooking, because

according to him my salads and main courses

rock! And even some of my desserts. Woo hoo!!

As you might know from previous stories,

I’m not the best baker, nor are desserts my

forte. Those Dutch dessert-making genes

went to my middle sister.

I do have a knack for putting

flavours together and coming

up with winning meals.

Only I forgot to write

down what I did and can’t

remember how I did it,

so it can’t be replicated.

As a young family

many moons ago, we

always sat down at the

kitchen table for the family

supper. My son, who had

such a good appetite when he

was a baby and toddler, turned

into a picky eater. We endured meals

punctuated with “just eat it” and “finish your

supper,” and “stop talking and eat please.” It

even got to the point where we would sing to

him Al Yankovic’s “Eat It.” We had to convince

him that every meal was chicken. It was the

only way he would eat his dinner.

As he got older and a slight bit wiser, he

asked why chicken looked different each day.

My answer, “Because your mother is a genius

in the kitchen. She knows how to make it look

and taste different, so you don’t get bored.”

As a teen he often skipped meals. Friends

and skateboarding took precedence over

family meals, but the next day, the platter of

leftovers would be gone, along with much else

from my fridge.

He refused to learn how to cook, thinking

perhaps he’d live with Mom for the rest of

his life and she would always provide. Young

adulthood soon burst that bubble.

Off to college in Toronto, where he learned

that fried eggs on toast (the only meal he

could make) could quickly get boring. He

became inventive — fried egg on toast with

lettuce, or with kale and chopped carrots. The

many variations of fried eggs on toast were

original, to say the least. Soon it was a steady

diet of Mr. Noodles — raw or cooked. To be

replaced with kale, sliced apples and peanut

butter licked off the spoon.

When his schooling took him to

Ottawa, trips home were few

and far between. His diet of

kale and sliced apples with

globs of peanut butter

continued. Soon he

learned how to make rice.

Pasta with canned sauces

became a staple and was

added to his growing

culinary arsenal.

He came home for a

visit at Christmas and I

planned all his favourite meals.

Listed them out to which days I

was making them. He never missed a

meal. Made it a priority to be home on time,

sat down with his family, and lapped up

every dish, asking for second and thirds. We

didn’t have to say, “just eat it” or “finish your

supper,” or even “Santa is watching.”

His lips smacked with murmurs of

“Mmmm” as he ate. When he was done, said,

“That was so good Mom.” I smiled benignly,

and patted myself on the back because — my

food really schmecks.

JUDY FRANCISSEN resides in London,where she

spends her time writing nature, travel, historical and

human interest articles, and working toward getting her

novels published.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

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56 | March/April 2017



Upstairs on the







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