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Travel Explorer Magazine Jan 17

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TRAVEL EXPLORER<br />

Issue 02| Winter / Spring 20<strong>17</strong>


5 30<br />

EDITORS<br />

Oliver Broad & Nathan Collins<br />

Directors, RB Collection<br />

Welcome to the 2nd Edition of our new <strong>Travel</strong> <strong>Explorer</strong> magazine. This larger issue includes<br />

an interview with Sir Ranulph Fiennes plus reports from our visits to Iceland and Abu Dhabi.<br />

We welcome back professional journalist Andrew Youngson who guides us through San<br />

Francisco and around Santorini. Thanks to everyone who has taken part.<br />

12 18 28<br />

We look forward to creating your next holiday memories.<br />

CONTENTS<br />

CREDITS<br />

Andrew Youngson<br />

From north-east Scotland, Andrew worked as a<br />

features writer for the Press and Journal and is<br />

now based in London working for Imperial College<br />

London.<br />

Kirsty Taylor<br />

Last year, Kirsty celebrated her 15th anniversary<br />

with the company. Who else could be in a better<br />

position to oversee quality control of our projects.<br />

Robbie Sinclair<br />

Fashion Editor for WGSN (the world’s largest fashion<br />

forecaster), Robbie helps keep our magazine<br />

looking smart and on trend.<br />

Front cover photo: Constance Lemuria, Seychelles.<br />

Photo above: (from left) Kirsty, Sam, Oliver, Nathan,<br />

Alan, Clare, Nicola & Nuria.<br />

Special thanks:<br />

Sir Ranulph Fiennes, Kirker Holidays, Lusso,<br />

Prestige Holidays, James Broad, If Only, Emirates,<br />

Hurtigruten, Constance Hotels & Resorts, Classic<br />

Collection Holidays, Mason Rose, Leela Palace,<br />

Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Melanie Brown at The<br />

New Zealand Wine Cellar, Luxury Lodges of New<br />

Zealand, Silversea & Oceania Cruises.<br />

Published by:<br />

RB Collection<br />

2 Boley Park Shopping Centre<br />

Lichfield, Staffs, WS14 9XU<br />

01543 258631 - vip@rbcollection.com<br />

Instagram: rb_collectionpix<br />

RB Collection Ltd has taken all reasonable care to ensure that the information<br />

contained in this magazine is accurate on the stated date<br />

of publication or last modification. It is possible that the information<br />

may be out of date, incomplete or the opinion of the author. It is<br />

advisable that you verify any information from this magazine before<br />

relying on it. RB Collection Ltd accepts no responsibility for the consequences<br />

of error or for any loss or damage suffered by users of any<br />

of the information and material contained in this magazine or any<br />

site you may access through this magazine. Materials contained on<br />

this magazine are subject to copyright and other proprietary rights.<br />

Copyright © 20<strong>17</strong> RB Collection Ltd.<br />

5<br />

TRENDS<br />

We summarise the latest travel<br />

trends from around the world<br />

including Joanna Lumley’s Japan.<br />

20<br />

REVIEWS<br />

Nathan reports from Abu Dhabi<br />

and Nicola from Iceland. Plus;<br />

reviews from Sicily, Barcelona &<br />

Viking Sea.<br />

10<br />

TRAVEL STYLE<br />

An update on this season’s travel<br />

trends and some handy gadgets &<br />

gizmos for good measure.<br />

30<br />

CALM<br />

Time to switch off. Read our tips<br />

for far flung Island Getaways and<br />

closer to home; holidays to the<br />

Lakes & Mountains of Europe.<br />

12<br />

ANCHORS AWAY<br />

We bring you the latest<br />

developments from the fast<br />

growing cruise sector.<br />

32<br />

FEATURES<br />

Andrew Youngson takes us on two<br />

eloquent journeys, first to San<br />

Francisco and second to Greece,<br />

on the island of Santorini.<br />

18<br />

SIR RANULPH<br />

What a scoop! We interview the<br />

great adventurer himself ahead of<br />

a special South America tour.<br />

42<br />

WINE<br />

Meet Melanie Brown from the New<br />

Zealand Wine Cellar as she guides<br />

us around her favourite spots in<br />

her homeland.


TRAVEL TRENDS<br />

Unlike other retailers which see shelves replenished daily with the latest commodities, trends in travel move slower.<br />

Linked to popular culture, the political and economic climate and where hoteliers choose to invest next, we can<br />

take a more considered look at travel trends without the worry they will be become tomorrow’s chip paper.<br />

Photo: Canadian flag taken by Oliver during his visit to Vancouver.<br />

Who could resist the sultry tones of Joanna Lumley as she<br />

explored Japan from top to bottom in her ITV documentary?<br />

We have already seen an increased interest in the host of the<br />

2020 Olympics, and we only expect it to increase further. Also<br />

delighting us on television was the hypnotic voice of Sir David<br />

Attenborough in Planet Earth II. The phrase ‘Up close and<br />

personal’ sprung to mind as we were transported from the<br />

rainforest of Madagascar to the Pacific Islands and beyond.<br />

Wildlife tours and safari holidays have been at the top of<br />

many clients’ lists, especially honeymooners.<br />

At this time of year we inevitably seek warmer climates. The<br />

spotlight was firmly on Abu Dhabi following the dramatic end<br />

to the F1 Grand Prix season and also hotel openings by Four<br />

Seasons and Jumeirah are attracting further attention (p20).<br />

Myanmar received much-needed investment with the reopening<br />

of The Strand, Yangon, whilst Belmond re-open La<br />

Residence D’Angkor in Siem Reap, Cambodia. In Vietnam,<br />

Four Seasons welcomes The Nam Hai, a luxurious beachfront<br />

property, whilst Phuket continues its campaign to attract<br />

more luxury visitors with the opening of Keemala with very<br />

unique dangling treehouses and thatched-roof cottages.<br />

Rosewood’s 71 villa property is also set to open soon. Fans of<br />

Rajasthan, India will now be able to stay at Fort Bishangarh,<br />

transformed into a luxury resort by the Alila group.<br />

Latin America is hot for 20<strong>17</strong> with new flights into Chile, Peru,<br />

Colombia & Costa Rica. Our beloved Belmond have taken<br />

over the running of the Andean <strong>Explorer</strong> from Cusco to Puno<br />

in Peru and we eagerly await her inaugural departure in May.<br />

CANADA CELEBRATES<br />

This year Canada celebrates the 150th anniversary<br />

of Confederation. Although events are planned<br />

across the entire country, the capital city of<br />

Ottawa will feature heavily. In June a new<br />

permanent Arctic Gallery opens at the Canadian<br />

Museum of Nature and on Canada Day, 1st July,<br />

the new Canadian History Hall will open at the<br />

Canadian Museum of History; whilst in November<br />

the Canada Science and Technology Museum<br />

celebrates its 50th Anniversary and re-opens after<br />

an $80.5m upgrade. Museums aside throughout<br />

20<strong>17</strong>, Ignite 150 is a series of <strong>17</strong> epic stunts and<br />

gatherings throughout the Capital including a<br />

gourmet experience 50 metres in the air. In March,<br />

the Red Bull Crashed Ice World Championships<br />

will take place, whilst Hydro Ottawa will open up<br />

the Chaudiere Falls with public viewing platforms<br />

and recognition of sacredness of the space to the<br />

Aboriginal People. In summer; Downtown Ottawa<br />

will be taken over by La Machine’s roving, larger<br />

than life mechanical creatures.<br />

Keep an eye on developments through these sites:<br />

www.canada.ca/150<br />

www.ottawatourism.ca/ottawa-in-20<strong>17</strong><br />

Jordan is firmly back on the map with visitor numbers<br />

increasing and the revelation of new sites discovered in the<br />

ancient Nabataean city of Petra. Plans are also afoot for new<br />

hotels by W, Fairmont, Jumeirah and St Regis. Read our latest<br />

clients’ testimonial at www.jordanholidays.co.uk.<br />

Closer to home; the Jardines de Nivaria in Tenerife has<br />

completed its €13.5m refurbishment programme, whilst<br />

Birmingham Airport welcomes a new Stockholm flight.<br />

Another city break destination on the map is Valencia which<br />

received a third UK flight last year. With its dynamic selection<br />

of art, history and culture it’s a hot tip for 20<strong>17</strong>.<br />

Photos: Left: Joanna Lumley in Japan (ITV). Above: Belmond’s new Andean<br />

<strong>Explorer</strong> onboard cabin, travelling to Lake Titicaca, Peru from May.<br />

5 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


NICOLA DISCOVERS A HIDDEN GEM...<br />

With mountain-edged coastlines, mystical islands sprouting from the sea and walled towns straight<br />

out of storybooks. plus its very own Tara Canyon, second only to the Grand Canyon, Montenegro is a<br />

naturally beautiful country indeed.<br />

Located just off the Budva coast in Montenegro, Sveti Stefan is a picture-perfect island made up of<br />

terracotta-tiled fishermen’s cottages dotted with evergreen trees set in a turquoise bay. Dating back to<br />

the 15th century it started off as a fortified fishing village. The fishermen were replaced by royalty and<br />

celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton when it was turned into a luxury hotel in the<br />

1950’s. Abandoned in the 1980’s after the Balkan conflict, the hotel was more recently the recipient of<br />

a stunning and very sympathetic makeover and has been re-opened as one of Europe’s most luxurious<br />

retreats.<br />

It is so exclusive, you can only go as far as the walkway onto the island before being redirected by hotel<br />

security. Not for the fainthearted, the resort is made up of lots of little pathways and steps leading off<br />

to what feels like very secluded cottages, most with stunning views across the bay. Breakfast is enjoyed<br />

under the shaded trees with the most magnificent views out to sea or towards the highest peak church,<br />

one of three on the Island.<br />

Nicola stayed at the Aman Sveti Stefan as part of her tour of Montenegro and Croatia where she also visited<br />

Dubrovnik. Read Nicola’s full report at rbcollection.com/blog.<br />

6 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 7 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


Above photograph by: Mr. Brown, India, March 2016.<br />

PHOTOGRAPH COMPETITION<br />

Throughout 2016 we received a wonderful collection of photographs taken by our clients all over the world.<br />

We have collated them together for the public to vote for their favourite...<br />

Right-hand page: From top left: Athens guards by Mr. Kempthorne ( July<br />

2016), South African leopard by Mrs. Sutton (April 2016), The Lost City of<br />

Petra, Jordan (October 2016), Mountains of Austria by Mrs. Merrill (May 2016).<br />

VOTE & WIN<br />

The entries are in and we invite you to vote for your<br />

favourite <strong>Travel</strong> Photograph of the Year. The full<br />

selection can be found at www.rbcollection.com/photo.<br />

This year the winner will receive a £250 RB Holiday<br />

Voucher. Two runners up will receive a £100 RB voucher<br />

each. Plus, everyone who votes will have their name<br />

placed into the hat to win one of three £50 RB Holiday<br />

Vouchers. Please do take part and select your favourite<br />

photograph from the wonderful selection. Voting is open<br />

until 30th April 20<strong>17</strong> and the winner will be announced<br />

in May 20<strong>17</strong>.<br />

8 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 9 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


TRAVEL STYLE<br />

Fashion writer and designer Robbie Sinclair highlights the key travel essentials....<br />

“Classic black and white sit alongside aqua blue and rich navy for a nod to nautical dressing. Busy geometric prints are the<br />

perfect seasonal pattern for women’s woven tops. Technology sees innovative pocket printers that allow you to print your<br />

holiday snaps instantly whilst on the go and wearing tech bracelets that help combat stress by measuring the pulse.”<br />

1. Tsunami Kids paperback £8.99, Your local book store<br />

2. Geometric print top, £330, Marni<br />

3. Happiness enhancing wristband, www.myfeel.co<br />

4. Running shorts, £195, Koza<br />

5. Bayswater leather tote, £950, Mulberry<br />

6. Frayed satin sandals, £440, Gianvito Rossi<br />

7. Short sleeved shirt, £320, Alexander McQueen<br />

8. HP Sprocket mini photo printer, £160, Amazon<br />

9. Shorts, £90, NN07<br />

10. GPS, battery charging suitcase, £354, Bluesmart One<br />

11. Bottle waistpack, £22, Nike<br />

12. Running shoes, £150, Athletic Propulsion Labs<br />

1<br />

7<br />

8<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

9 10<br />

5<br />

6 11<br />

12<br />

10 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 11 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


ANCHORS AWAY<br />

Exploring the world on water continues to be one of the fastest-growing sectors<br />

of the travel industry. Both ocean & river cruise companies continue to innovate<br />

with unique one-off sailings and launching new ships and facilities.<br />

ONE-OFF SAILINGS...<br />

Our cruise experts have hand-picked three special cruise departures for you<br />

to take advantage of.<br />

their next generation of ships, revealing<br />

their names to be Celebrity Edge and<br />

Celebrity Beyond. The first ship is<br />

expected to be delivered in 2018 with<br />

another to follow in 2020 and two more in<br />

2021 and 2022.<br />

departing on 29th July 20<strong>17</strong>. Departing<br />

from Budapest the cruise will explore the<br />

Royal Palaces, in the Czech Republic, take<br />

in a Gothic 13th-century castle, and in<br />

Passau admire the ornate architecture of<br />

St Stephen’s Cathedral.<br />

SEADREAM TASTER CRUISE<br />

Intrigued to sample the Seadream luxury<br />

yachting experience? This one-off 4 night<br />

sailing from Monte Carlo to Rome in May<br />

20<strong>17</strong> is just the ticket. It’s also great for<br />

those with little time on their hands who<br />

deserve a special break.<br />

From £2,199 per person.<br />

REGENT OPERA SAILING<br />

BELMOND PIVOINE & LILAS<br />

This 12-night cruise departs Venice in July Meet the two newest members of<br />

20<strong>17</strong> and includes tickets to see Nabucco<br />

at Arena di Verona before embarking<br />

Belmond’s fleet of luxury barges. Soak<br />

up the scenery of Alsace aboard Belmond<br />

for Dubrovnik, Corfu, Sicily, Amalfi, Lilas, or uncover the delights of the<br />

Rome, Florence, Monaco, Provence, Champagne region aboard Belmond<br />

Palamos & Barcelona. Flights, ultra allinclusive<br />

& excursions all included.<br />

From £5,379 per person.<br />

Pivoine. Available for private charter only,<br />

ideal for friends & family.<br />

From £4,500pp (based on group of 8).<br />

CRUISE NEWS<br />

The exciting news for 20<strong>17</strong> is the launch of<br />

Silversea’s new flagship Silver Muse this<br />

spring. Their 9th ship will carry just 596<br />

guests offering an intimate experience,<br />

difficult to achieve by some of the larger<br />

ships.<br />

Following last year’s launch of Seven Seas<br />

<strong>Explorer</strong>, Regent Seven Seas Cruises has<br />

completed its bow-to-stern upgrade of<br />

Seven Seas Voyager, the second of their<br />

existing ship refurbishments, as part of its<br />

$125m fleet-wide upgrade. Both Voyager<br />

and Navigator now have the same style as<br />

<strong>Explorer</strong>, with new luxurious decor and<br />

a special new collection of production<br />

shows in the Constellation Theatre.<br />

Celebrity Cruises began construction on<br />

Luxury cruise line Seabourn have taken<br />

delivery of their all-suite ship Encore.<br />

Carrying just 600 passengers, the ship<br />

will stay in the Australia-Pacific region<br />

before ending its winter season this<br />

May in Athens. During the summer, she<br />

will operate in the Mediterranean until<br />

September.<br />

Oceania Cruises will offer over<br />

20 departures from New York<br />

in 20<strong>17</strong> and 2018, claiming<br />

it will be the only ‘upscale<br />

cruise line’ to homeport<br />

in the city. Destinations<br />

include New England,<br />

Canada, Bermuda,<br />

Greenland and Iceland<br />

onboard Insignia.<br />

In the world of river<br />

cruises; The American Queen<br />

Steamboat Company launches<br />

the 166 passenger American Duchess,<br />

offering cruises into the heart of Nashville<br />

and between Illinois, Ottawa and St Louis.<br />

The former Mississippi casino boat is<br />

being stripped down and rebuilt offering<br />

all-suite accommodation with two storey<br />

loft suites.<br />

Emerald Waterways has launched the<br />

UK’s first LGBT-dedicated river cruise<br />

AmaWaterways has announced the<br />

launch of a golfing programme. The<br />

exclusive 10-night packages will launch<br />

on the Danube in April 20<strong>17</strong> and combine 7<br />

nights on an AmaWaterways river cruise,<br />

3 nights in Prague and the opportunity<br />

to play golf on Championship courses<br />

in five European countries; the Czech<br />

Republic, Germany, Austria, Slovakia<br />

and Hungary.<br />

Crystal continues to invest<br />

in their new river cruise<br />

programme with the<br />

building of Crystal Bach<br />

and Crystal Mahler. Both<br />

will carry 110 passengers<br />

and are tipped to be the<br />

most luxurious on the<br />

European riverways.<br />

Star Clippers are offering a<br />

range of new rail & sail holidays,<br />

which include train travel from London<br />

to Cannes, a one night stay in the French<br />

Riviera and a full week, full board sailing<br />

on the tall ship Royal Clipper (pictured<br />

above). Various departures take place<br />

between May and October 20<strong>17</strong>. In<br />

addition to stopping along the French<br />

Riviera, ports of call include Corsica,<br />

Sardinia, Elba and the Italian Coastline.<br />

12 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 13 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


MUSIC & OPERA<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> & music go hand in hand. Visit the hometown of your favourite composer,<br />

take in a concert and explore with an expert tour leader to get under the skin of<br />

a destination.<br />

EARLY BOOKING RECOMMENDED<br />

Based on our experience of these popular events we highly<br />

recommend securing your places early...<br />

THE PUCCINI OPERA FESTIVAL<br />

Giacomo Puccini was born into a musical<br />

family in Lucca on 22 December 1858.<br />

His first opera, Le Villi, was performed<br />

in 1884. For the next forty years, until<br />

his death in 1924, Puccini composed<br />

operas which today are still the most<br />

performed works on the stages of the<br />

world’s opera houses.<br />

From £1,798 per person.<br />

ANDREA BOCELLI<br />

One of the most popular events in the<br />

summer calendar is Andrea’s annual<br />

performance in his hometown of<br />

Lajatico, Tuscany. Each year the event<br />

takes on a different theme, in 2016 they<br />

put on a special one-off show called<br />

‘Le Cirque’. Early booking is strongly<br />

advised, visit rbcollection.com/italy.<br />

From £1,200 per person.<br />

NEW YORK MET OPERA<br />

Enjoy three star-studded performances<br />

at the Metropolitan Opera plus a special<br />

backstage tour. See at close quarters<br />

just how an opera house of this size and<br />

international standing functions. The<br />

new season includes performances<br />

by Anna Netrebko, Sonya Youncheva<br />

and Kristine Opolais in productions of<br />

classic operas by Puccini and Verdi.<br />

From £2,649 per person.<br />

20<strong>17</strong> HIGHLIGHTS<br />

We are able to offer a range of escorted<br />

and independent holidays for those with<br />

an interest in classical music and opera.<br />

This is ideal if you enjoy the company<br />

of like-minded travellers and enjoy the<br />

insight provided by an expert lecturer.<br />

This special programme of Cultural<br />

Tours & Music Holidays offers the perfect<br />

solution. Itineraries are carefully planned<br />

to include the best tickets for selected<br />

performances at some of Europe’s finest<br />

venues, as well as fascinating sightseeing,<br />

including visits to museums, art galleries<br />

and important monuments. There is also<br />

free time for independent sightseeing –<br />

and the pace is designed to be relaxing yet<br />

comprehensive.<br />

Opera<br />

In 20<strong>17</strong> there are a wider range of escorted<br />

opera holidays than ever before, including<br />

destinations from Berlin to New York.<br />

Highlights will include visits to the Semper<br />

Opera in Dresden, a popular holiday to<br />

New York’s Met Opera, performances of<br />

Carmen and Tosca in Hamburg, and a<br />

complete Ring Cycle in Leipzig – the city<br />

of Wagner’s birth.<br />

In addition we are offering visits to the<br />

great opera cities of Vienna, Milan, Rome<br />

and Venice for a series of long opera<br />

weekends, which combine tickets for one<br />

or more performances, with visits to the<br />

important art galleries and museums in<br />

the company of an expert guide. During<br />

the summer months, whilst the grand<br />

opera houses close their doors, there are a<br />

host of spectacular summer opera festivals<br />

to enjoy. The Verona Opera Festival, with<br />

its impressive productions in the glorious<br />

Roman Arena, is an essential experience<br />

for anyone – opera connoisseur or not.<br />

Music Festivals<br />

The 20<strong>17</strong> programme will not only<br />

include a wide range of opera holidays,<br />

but will also take in several important<br />

European music festivals. Baden-Baden,<br />

on the edge of Germany’s Black Forest has<br />

become a centre of musical excellence<br />

and you can visit this elegant spa town<br />

on three separate occasions – for the<br />

Berlin Philharmonic’s Easter Festival; the<br />

Whitsun Festival in June, which includes<br />

performances by Andras Schiff and Diana<br />

Damrau; and the Valery Gergiev Festival<br />

in July, with the orchestra, chorus and<br />

soloists from the Mariinsky Theatre in<br />

St Petersburg. Other 20<strong>17</strong> highlights<br />

include Berlin Festtage, directed and<br />

mostly conducted by Daniel Barenboim;<br />

the Beethoven Festival in Bonn; the<br />

Schubertiade in Schwarzenberg, and<br />

the Rosendal Chamber Festival with<br />

Norwegian pianist Leif Ove Andsnes.<br />

Exclusive Festivals<br />

We are also offering you the chance<br />

to experience your choice of specially<br />

arranged, exclusive Kirker chamber music<br />

festivals, including carefully-curated<br />

performances featuring internationallyacclaimed<br />

musicians from around the<br />

world in unique settings. The 20<strong>17</strong> season<br />

will include the Kirker Chopin Festival<br />

in Mallorca, with the Aquinas Piano Trio,<br />

pianist Martin Cousin and organist and<br />

editor of BBC Music <strong>Magazine</strong>, Oliver<br />

Condy; the Kirker Music Festival in<br />

Leipzig with Tim Horton performing the<br />

Goldberg Variations in Köthen Castle and<br />

a performance by the famous Gewandhaus<br />

Orchestra; and several festivals in the<br />

UK, from Eastbourne and Suffolk, to<br />

Northamptonshire and Cornwall.<br />

For those who prefer to travel<br />

independently, we can also arrange<br />

tailor-made short breaks, including<br />

opera, concert or ballet tickets to all the<br />

great – and many of the less well-known<br />

musical cities in Europe.<br />

With such a wonderful selection of events<br />

and travelling possibilities why not<br />

consider a music themed break in 20<strong>17</strong>?<br />

For more details contact RB Collection on<br />

01543 258631 or email vip@rbcollection.com.


NEW ENGLAND<br />

Find yourself falling for New England. Scenic, seasonal and a self-drive paradise,<br />

this birthplace of America and world of natural beauty is a popular choice with<br />

travellers drawn by its vivid variety.<br />

FAIRMONT COPLEY PLAZA<br />

BOSTON<br />

Centrally located, Fairmont Copley Plaza<br />

is steps away from Newbury Street and<br />

the Freedom Trail. The hotel boasts 383<br />

modern guestrooms and a Fairmont Gold<br />

floor complete with exclusive amenities,<br />

as well as a rooftop gym and one of the<br />

hottest dining destinations in Boston,<br />

OAK Long Bar + Kitchen.<br />

CHATHAM BARS INN<br />

CAPE COD<br />

Originally a hunting lodge, this awardwinning<br />

Inn is home to a selection of<br />

fresh and contemporary rooms and suites<br />

overlooking the ocean and beach. Guests<br />

can experience regional cuisine and fresh<br />

seafood, unwind in the spa and by the<br />

adults-only pool or partake in various<br />

activities both on land and water.<br />

506 ON THE RIVER INN<br />

WOODSTOCK<br />

This family-owned and run Inn is<br />

conveniently located two miles from the<br />

picturesque village of Woodstock beside<br />

the Ottauquechee River. Beautifully<br />

furnished, warm and homely, guests are<br />

treated to comfortable contemporary<br />

rooms, seasonal dining, relaxing drinks<br />

in the bar, an indoor pool and children’s<br />

playroom for young ones.<br />

LET’S EXPLORE<br />

The USA, well-known for doing things<br />

‘bigger and better,’ certainly never ceases<br />

to live up to expectations. A place where<br />

stars line pavements, neon lights colour<br />

up the desert and where Walt Disney<br />

created a Magic Kingdom from his own<br />

imagination. Brimming with bustling<br />

cities, beautiful landscapes and vivid<br />

coastlines, discover parts of America<br />

in your way, at your own pace and with<br />

no two days the same. Venture off on a<br />

bespoke itinerary and witness first-hand<br />

a kaleidoscope of cultures, cuisines,<br />

scenery and adventures, all reached by<br />

open roads under open skies.<br />

Under these open skies also lies ‘picture<br />

perfect’ New England. The birthplace<br />

of America, this intensely colourful<br />

destination is a photographer’s dream,<br />

with its blazing hues, russet-red barns<br />

and white farmhouses, steepled churches<br />

and village greens. It is also famed for its<br />

quaint country hotels and historic inns,<br />

where travellers are guaranteed a warm<br />

welcome wherever they lay their head<br />

and the options for families and couples<br />

are endless. However it’s not only the<br />

accommodation that is vast and varied, so<br />

too are the activities as the great outdoors<br />

boasts picturesque rivers and lakes,<br />

towering forests, rugged beaches and<br />

mountain ranges that draw in adventurers<br />

throughout the year. In fact, this is one<br />

of the greatest joys of New England, its<br />

seasons are just that; Winter is Winter,<br />

Summer is Summer, Spring is Spring and<br />

Autumn, well that’s something altogether<br />

spectacular. During the Fall you can join<br />

fellow ‘leaf-peepers’ as they take in the<br />

colourful transitions of the trees between<br />

late September and October when the<br />

landscapes are aflame with colour, harvest<br />

festivals and pumpkin-carving contests.<br />

Much like the USA in general, New England<br />

offers diverse holiday experiences;<br />

whether walking the city streets of Boston<br />

or strolling through the rural rolling hills<br />

and orchestral hub of The Berkshires, the<br />

endless options can be perfectly combined<br />

as part of a self-drive holiday. Heading<br />

behind the wheel here really is a voyage of<br />

discovery, with all six wonderfully unique<br />

states having much to offer the curious<br />

traveller. In Massachusetts you will find<br />

historic Boston, teeming with attractions<br />

both old and new, while the small town<br />

character of Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard<br />

and Nantucket Island radiate charm with<br />

their beaches, sailing and whale watching.<br />

With the lighthouses and lobster in Maine,<br />

yachts in Rhode Island and historical<br />

seaport of Mystic in Connecticut, New<br />

England’s 500 miles of coastline offers<br />

no end of water sports and seaside<br />

activities, not to mention ample scope<br />

for feasting on the latest catches. Take<br />

off on soft adventures, hiking, biking and<br />

white-water rafting in New Hampshire<br />

or immerse in the dense greenery and<br />

mountainsides of Vermont. In truth,<br />

wherever your New England experience<br />

takes you, there’s so much local culture<br />

and beautiful scenery to absorb that you<br />

will wish your trip was never ending.<br />

We have put together an example of a<br />

self-drive tour taking in Boston, Cape<br />

Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket Island<br />

and Newport. For your convenience,<br />

ferry tickets to Martha’s Vineyard and<br />

from Nantucket are included, as well as<br />

inter-island flights, hand-picked quality<br />

accommodation and of course our<br />

professional service. Prices from £2,925<br />

per person; we can also arrange your<br />

international flights, ask for details.<br />

Contact RB Collection to book your holiday<br />

to New England.<br />

16 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER <strong>17</strong> | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


SIR RANULPH FIENNES<br />

In November, Sir Ranulph Fiennes joins a special private jet tour of South America including the Galapagos<br />

Islands. We are very honoured that he agreed to answer a few of our questions about the special tour and his<br />

own thoughts on travel.<br />

Where does your sense of adventure originate from?<br />

From my Grandad Eustacey Fiennes. He joined the<br />

British Territorial Army as a teenager, where he became<br />

a close friend of his neighbour, young Winston Churchill.<br />

When they were older they shared many adventures<br />

including the Gallipoli fighting at the Boer War. Grandad<br />

went to Canada to look for gold and trap for fur. Then<br />

he joined the Mounties followed by the South African<br />

Police. Later he was governor of the Seychelles islands.<br />

He loved adventure.<br />

What has been your greatest adventure to date?<br />

For eight expeditions over twenty-six years, my late<br />

wife and I searched the great deserts of Arabia for (and<br />

eventually to find) the lost incense city of Ubar, often<br />

known as the Atlantis of the Sands. In 1992 we eventually<br />

found the city in the Omani desert and close to the<br />

Yemeni border.<br />

How can travel help broaden the mind?<br />

It helps to broaden your mind if you get to meet other<br />

people with many different ways of living, behaving and<br />

with different codes of ethics and beliefs. <strong>Travel</strong> makes<br />

this possible.<br />

What interests you about this South America tour?<br />

Whilst I have travelled around the world many times I<br />

have not always had the luxury of a private jet, add to<br />

this the unique itinerary and the chance to speak to like<br />

minded people – why would I not agree to it?<br />

What part of this unique itinerary would you say is the<br />

most exciting and why?<br />

I think this tour is filled with amazing highlights. It is<br />

not easy travelling around the South American continent<br />

hassle-free and this itinerary ticks off its major sights in<br />

a comfortable three-week itinerary. It would be hard to<br />

pick just one, but key ones that stand out for me must be<br />

the cruise of the Galapagos and the opportunity to get to<br />

the Falklands and Easter Island, which normally involves<br />

a complicated network of flights.<br />

What tips do you have for the aspiring adventurer?<br />

I have been asked this many many times over the years<br />

by younger and older folk. By far the best advice is to<br />

join up with any company of travel / adventure experts.<br />

Simply become a member of your local specialists. In the<br />

UK, this would include the Royal Geographical Society,<br />

the British Exploring Society, the Scientific Exploration<br />

Society or Operation Raleigh. Once you’ve joined they<br />

will open the door to amazing travel adventures, or<br />

simple but expert travel advice.<br />

Is there anywhere remaining on your bucket list?<br />

I have been lucky enough to travel in many remote and<br />

fascinating lands over the past five decades but, despite<br />

a number of visits to the southern tips of Chile and<br />

Argentina, I have never had the chance to explore the<br />

amazing wonders of Patagonia. I sincerely hope to get<br />

there one day before too long!<br />

Join Sir Ranulph Fiennes & John Stapleton who will join<br />

the Grand South American Journey by Private Jet for<br />

selected days. 20 nights from £34,995 per person.<br />

Photo: Liz Scarff, Field Craft Studios.<br />

18 | TRAVEL EXPLORER | AUTUMN / WINTER 2016<br />

19 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


TRIED & TESTED:<br />

ABU DHABI<br />

Written by Nathan Collins<br />

With so many destinations around the world to choose<br />

from, it’s always tough to decide where to spend that all<br />

important, quality family holiday. With my son Harry,<br />

nearly 4, there are even more factors to consider. As a<br />

young family, we need somewhere safe and secure, with<br />

good facilities, a warm climate to help us relax and plenty<br />

to keep us all entertained, mainly, of course, Harry! And<br />

if we could find somewhere with a little education and<br />

culture thrown in for good measure then even better.<br />

Since my first visit to the Middle East over 12 years ago,<br />

I have always been fascinated with the mystical culture<br />

that surrounds the region. I’d wanted to return for a<br />

while and now seemed the right time with Harry soaking<br />

in all the sights and sounds of daily life as he bounces<br />

from one topic to the next. We decided on the capital<br />

city of the United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, and my visit<br />

in November was filled with many different experiences<br />

that singles, couples and families alike can enjoy.<br />

The United Arab Emirates is a country that was formed<br />

just over 45 years ago in December 1971 and is made<br />

up of seven Emirates - Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras<br />

al Khaimah, Sharjah and the lesser known Umm al-<br />

Quwain. Bordered by Oman to the east and Saudi Arabia<br />

to the west, the UAE sits perfectly in the warm waters of<br />

the Persian Gulf and is reached by a mid-haul flight of<br />

around 7 hours from the UK, perfectly manageable for a<br />

young family like ours. Most of us in the UK will be aware<br />

of the rise of Abu Dhabi’s big brother Dubai, and after 3<br />

previous visits there myself, I was keen to see and feel<br />

the differences one of the other Emirates could offer.<br />

There are numerous flight options to reach Abu Dhabi,<br />

but for this trip I decided on a direct service from<br />

London with British Airways. You can also reach Abu<br />

Dhabi direct from Manchester or indirect from regional<br />

airports such as Birmingham.<br />

Abu Dhabi makes for a great alternative winter sun<br />

destination to the likes of the Canary Islands, Caribbean,<br />

Cape Verde & The Gambia and offers a beautiful climate<br />

between October and April with temperatures of around<br />

25-30 degrees Celsius. Their summer months between<br />

May and September do get extremely hot, but this is<br />

when hotels provide enticing offers which make the<br />

destination extremely good value for money.<br />

One of the first things that struck me soon after my<br />

arrival was how relaxed and slow paced Abu Dhabi is<br />

I wanted a winter-sun, family<br />

friendly destination and for<br />

Harry to start learning about<br />

other cultures...<br />

compared to Dubai, which was very welcoming. Even<br />

though Abu Dhabi is a cosmopolitan city I was most<br />

impressed with the amount of lush green parks and<br />

open outdoor space for visitors to enjoy. You can see why<br />

it’s been named ‘The Garden City of the Gulf’.<br />

I decided to stay in two different areas of the city, which<br />

is quite spread out. The first took me to the Ritz Carlton,<br />

located in the Al Maqta district on the banks of the grand<br />

canal. This is a large property comprising of 447 rooms<br />

and suites, built in a Venetian style with lovely facilities.<br />

It also boasts a 1600 square metre swimming pool,<br />

the largest in UAE. On our first evening, we enjoyed a<br />

beautiful al fresco BBQ dinner in the hotel gardens and<br />

had some delicious meat cooked to our liking by the<br />

team of chefs. With the addition of some low-key music<br />

and entertainment, this really made a wonderful start<br />

to our trip.<br />

Staying in this part of the city gave a very different feel to a<br />

normal high rise city experience, as you can benefit from<br />

a nice stretch of private beach in front of the property,<br />

which still gave a lovely leisurely feel to the hotel. One<br />

of the other benefits of this area was being able to take<br />

an Abra ride across the Grand Canal to neighbouring<br />

resorts and a little shopping souk, and we also enjoyed<br />

a wander through the resorts adjoining Venetian Village<br />

which contained a number of alternative bars and<br />

restaurant options.<br />

Another highlight of this area was being able to see<br />

and admire the stunning Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque,<br />

which visitors can view directly from the Ritz Carlton<br />

and be in striking distance to go and enjoy the wonderful<br />

architecture. We made use of the hotel’s complimentary<br />

shuttle service and took one of the complimentary hour-<br />

long tours to learn all about the mosque. It was great to<br />

introduce Harry to a new experience such as this and<br />

families are certainly welcomed with open arms.<br />

The mosque was built by the late president Sheikh<br />

Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan who wanted to build an<br />

iconic monument that would become a symbol of the<br />

UAE and unite the Islamic world. It took 11 years to build<br />

with an approximate cost of £435 million and is now<br />

considered one of the most important places of worship<br />

in the region.<br />

My tip for unrivalled views of the Grand Mosque at<br />

sunset and later on into the evening would be to take<br />

an Abra over to the neighbouring Shangri-La hotel<br />

and have drinks in their pool bar - a truly wonderful<br />

experience! Try the Caipirinha, it will definitely add to<br />

the holiday spirit.<br />

After some culture exploring the mosque, we opted for<br />

an action packed family day out and took a taxi for the<br />

25-minute journey to Yas Island, home to the city’s F1<br />

Grand Prix circuit. This man made island on the edge<br />

of the city was developed 10 years ago to add a multipurpose<br />

leisure, shopping and entertainment area to<br />

the city. Here we enjoyed the morning at Yas Waterworld<br />

which contains a myriad of rides and pools for families<br />

of all ages to enjoy. My little boy particularly enjoyed the<br />

lazy river and the bandit bomber, which is a suspended<br />

water rollercoaster that takes you through the park<br />

and enables you to spray the visitors below! In the<br />

afternoon we moved next door to Ferrari World which<br />

won the Middle East’s leading tourist attraction at the<br />

2015 world travel awards. Car enthusiasts would enjoy<br />

the vast collection of Ferrari’s, along with a number of<br />

fantastic rides and here the big kid came out in me when<br />

I experienced the world’s fastest rollercoaster - Formula<br />

Rosso, which reaches a speed of 149MPH in just a mere<br />

5 seconds! Depending on how busy the parks are, you<br />

could spend a day exploring both or one in each. There<br />

are big plans ahead for Yas Island with a Warner Bros.<br />

World Abu Dhabi due to open in 2018.<br />

Following our stay at the Ritz Carlton we moved towards<br />

the city’s famous Corniche Road and to what was going<br />

to be the highlight of our visit - a wonderful 3 night stay<br />

at the famous Emirates Palace Hotel. From the moment<br />

we drove through the grand hotel gates, past the dancing<br />

water fountains, I knew we going to be in for a treat!<br />

Built at a staggering cost of £1.9billion in 2005, it is the<br />

second most expensive hotel ever built in the world,<br />

with higher construction costs than Dubai’s iconic and<br />

opulent Burj Al Arab. The aim was to showcase Arabian<br />

culture and the main dome is home to six Rulers’ Suites,<br />

reserved for dignitaries and visiting Royalty.<br />

I was immediately struck with the opulence and<br />

grandeur and felt like I was being transported to our<br />

own real Arabian palace. The service was exquisite; my<br />

wife was greeted with flowers at check-in and the smells<br />

of frankincense that adjusted as you moved through the<br />

different areas of the hotel were sublime. We felt very<br />

special and extremely privileged to be arriving here.<br />

We were shown to our room and introduced to our<br />

personal butler who took care of the unpacking of our<br />

cases, so we could get straight out and explore the 85<br />

hectares of grounds and gardens. The hotel is separated<br />

by the west and east wings - the west wing is aimed at<br />

families and the east for singles and couples. The west<br />

wing pool had some fantastic water slides and a lazy<br />

20 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 21 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


TRIED AND TESTED:<br />

HOTELS & CRUISES<br />

Honest reviews are difficult to find nowadays. With so many avenues for research<br />

who can you really trust? RB Collection’s team travel extensively to sample the<br />

products they recommend, here are a few examples since our last issue...<br />

river wrapping around the pool and I saw my little boy’s<br />

eyes light up with delight when we reached this area.<br />

After an afternoon exploring and enjoying the facilities<br />

we came across the beautiful beach bar set right on the<br />

hotel’s 1.3kms of private beach, so after another tough<br />

day of Middle East sunshine, we enjoyed some cocktails<br />

watching the sunset in perfect surroundings. This<br />

evening we enjoyed dinner at the hotel’s award winning<br />

Mezzaluna Restaurant which is one of 11 dining options<br />

within the hotel - as you can imagine it was a wonderful<br />

culinary experience!<br />

There were numerous things to experience within the<br />

Palace, so the following morning I took my little boy to<br />

the water sports centre to see what we could enjoy. Non<br />

motorised water activities are all included in the rates, so<br />

I decided to take Harry on his first kayaking experience.<br />

In the afternoon we visited the hotel’s resident Bedouin<br />

camp and learnt about the local cultures and of course<br />

no visit to the Middle East is complete without a ride on<br />

a camel!<br />

Taxis are readily available and are very reasonably priced,<br />

and getting around the city is very easy, so this evening<br />

we headed back to Yas Island and to the Yas Marina area<br />

which is home to the F1 Grand Prix circuit. We enjoyed<br />

a walk around the marina and then headed to the Yas<br />

Viceroy hotel (where the circuit runs underneath) for<br />

dinner, overlooking the track - a great experience for<br />

motorsport lovers.<br />

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, but<br />

before heading home later this evening we hired some<br />

bikes and cycled down the famous Corniche beach road,<br />

which was a great way to get a different perspective of the<br />

city. Before heading back to the airport we had a little bit<br />

of time to kill, so headed on the short 5-minute journey<br />

to do some retail therapy at one of the city’s impressive<br />

malls. We decided on visiting Marina Mall due to the<br />

close proximity from the hotel and were very impressed<br />

with the size and array of shopping experiences on offer.<br />

Abu Dhabi was all I expected and more. A more subdued<br />

experience than Dubai, yet a more cosmopolitan feel<br />

than Oman, it suited us perfectly for a late autumn /<br />

early winter break away from the miserable cold British<br />

weather. We received a warm and friendly welcome,<br />

received an enriching cultural experience, which was<br />

great to introduce Harry to and were truly spoilt at some<br />

of the most luxurious and comfortable hotels I have ever<br />

had the privilege to sample.<br />

FACT FILE<br />

Flight time: around 7 hours.<br />

Where can you fly from? Direct from London and<br />

Manchester, via Dubai and Doha from Birmingham.<br />

Accommodation: World-class range of luxury resorts and<br />

city style hotels, various locations including beachfront.<br />

When to go: All year round, however summers can get<br />

very hot. It is a perfect winter-sun destination from<br />

October through to April.<br />

What not to miss: The warm sea waters, Ferrari World<br />

and the obligatory camel ride!<br />

Example package: 5 nights with flights from Birmingham,<br />

private transfers and accommodation at Ritz Carlton<br />

with breakfast from £849 per person. 5 nights staying at<br />

the Emirates Palace with the added bonus of half board<br />

from £1,345pp. Based on 2 people sharing, conditions<br />

apply.<br />

HOTEL MAJESTIC<br />

Barcelona<br />

Executive room<br />

The Majestic Hotel is a property that<br />

really stands out from the rest. You walk<br />

passed and you say to yourself ‘I want to<br />

stay there’. It is in a perfect location to<br />

explore the cultural city of Barcelona,<br />

in the heart of the city on the glamorous<br />

Passeig de Gracia opposite Gaudi’s famous<br />

Casa Batlló. Once you step into the hotel<br />

you receive a very warm and friendly<br />

welcome. The hotel offers a rooftop pool<br />

with wonderful views over the city and I<br />

was impressed as to how they really do<br />

take care of the finer details to ensure<br />

you have a memorable stay. I stayed in an<br />

Executive Room which was very spacious<br />

and decorated in a classic style.<br />

Clare Buckley<br />

GRAND HOTEL TIMEO<br />

Sicily<br />

Deluxe Sea View room<br />

The Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo has the<br />

best location in the whole of Sicily, if not<br />

Italy! In the heart of Taormina, directly<br />

in front of the Greek amphitheatre, it has<br />

magnificent views of the coastline and<br />

Mt Etna. Exuding Italian elegance, the<br />

historic property feels like an oasis of calm<br />

and luxury amidst the bustling resort,<br />

the perfect place to relax and unwind in<br />

the most glamorous of surroundings.<br />

There’s a good sized swimming pool (as<br />

my daughter discovered), a restaurant<br />

serving delicious cuisine, with the most<br />

spectacular views in Sicily and beautiful<br />

gardens to enjoy. It is perfect for couples<br />

or families looking for a luxurious break,<br />

with a host of restaurants and sightseeing<br />

options close at hand.<br />

Kirsty Taylor<br />

VIKING SEA<br />

Rome to Athens<br />

Penthouse Veranda cabin<br />

Known for their river cruise holidays,<br />

Viking entered the ocean cruise market in<br />

2015. The interior was very modern with<br />

all the facilities you would expect from a<br />

5* ship plus a unique infinity pool. What<br />

impressed me most was the size as Viking<br />

have chosen smaller vessels with around<br />

900 passengers which made for a more<br />

personal and intimate experience. The<br />

lowest-priced cabins were an average size,<br />

and so an upgrade to a larger Penthouse<br />

Veranda would be recommended. Drinks<br />

with meals, WiFi and a few excursions are<br />

included.<br />

Alan Broad<br />

22 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 23 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


TRIED & TESTED: ICELAND<br />

Written by Nicola Brereton<br />

Iceland; having sold it for many years my preconceived<br />

idea was purely a Reykjavik city break, with a trip to the<br />

Blue Lagoon and an opportunity to see the Northern<br />

Lights. I imagined it to be quite barren with not much to<br />

do or see – how wrong could I be.<br />

As soon as our plane descended into Keflavik airport the<br />

view that unfolded was simply stunning. Our first taste<br />

of this amazing island had begun and it certainly was not<br />

about to disappoint. Leaving the airport we were met<br />

with the most beautiful houses dotted along the vast<br />

coastal line, all individually built in striking colours that<br />

complement the surrounding areas. Immediately we<br />

were captivated by the stories of the first Viking settlers<br />

and how they sent a prayer up to their God to guide them<br />

to a new land, threw a log into the sea and followed it<br />

along the coastline. The log was then carried around the<br />

coast, finally coming ashore in a bay with what appeared<br />

to be smoke. They called this new town Reykjavik –<br />

Nordic for bay of smoke. The smoke they could see was,<br />

in fact, the steam rising from the hot springs.<br />

After an hour’s drive we arrived in the beautiful city of<br />

Reykjavik. The main area is made up of Scandinavian<br />

style white-washed and colour washed wooden buildings<br />

full of character and lots of style. Although the drive in<br />

gives the impression of a sprawling city, the main part<br />

of Reykjavik itself feels quite peaceful. Most visitors and<br />

locals alike can be found along the many cafés and bars of<br />

Laugavegur, passing the time listening to buskers, while<br />

drinking an Icelandic coffee and people watching. From<br />

here the main shopping area can be found, although not<br />

many European recognisable shops are here however<br />

this is slowly but surely changing, giving Reykjavik a<br />

whole new ‘cosmopolitan’ vibe.<br />

Our home 3 nights was the beautiful landmark Hotel<br />

Borg. Dignified and imposing, Hotel Borg overlooks<br />

the beautiful square of Austurvöllur, in the heart of<br />

Reykjavík, across from Althingi, the Icelandic parliament<br />

and the cathedral and just a five-minute walk from the<br />

harbour front. Our first night in Reykjavik was to be an<br />

exciting one. After a quick freshen up we were to set<br />

off on the hunt for the Northern Lights. Our transport<br />

for the evening was an amazing minibus, modified with<br />

huge wheels – we soon understood the benefit of the<br />

wheels! Having left behind the bright lights of Reykjavik,<br />

we headed out into the north of the city into the hills,<br />

with nothing more than the moon and stars to guide<br />

us. Before long we were driving along an open field<br />

(completely oblivious to the lack of road surface due to<br />

the size of the wheels) with nothing around us but open<br />

This was my first time to<br />

Iceland and I was in awe of<br />

its natural beauty...<br />

skies and a beautiful salmon river, lit only by the clearest<br />

moon and stars I have ever seen we eventually came to<br />

a stop. As our guide Simms told us about the legends of<br />

this natural phenomenon as well as showing us all how<br />

to adapt our cameras to get the best possible pictures,<br />

we waited in earnest to see this night time extravaganza<br />

unfold. We were told how the lights were tracked in<br />

years gone by and how technology has now made this<br />

much simpler – god bless smartphones! To keep us<br />

warm in the cool air we were offered some internal<br />

heating – Icelandic Vodka to you and me – or the simpler<br />

alternative of lovely warming hot chocolate.<br />

With no luck in our current location, we soon had word<br />

the Northern Lights had been spotted further up the<br />

mountains so off we raced – with hot chocolate still in<br />

hand. Other guides were giving us updates over the<br />

radio, the excitement was building and before long we<br />

came to a stop on a deserted road. As we piled out once<br />

more with cameras at the ready we found ourselves<br />

once again in the most stunning surroundings. The<br />

area was so beautiful I don’t think any of us cared too<br />

much now about the lights, we were so engrossed in<br />

the drama of chasing them and the amazing places we<br />

found ourselves in, the sheer excitement of it all kept<br />

us thoroughly entertained. After a number of hours<br />

of chasing, tiredness finally took over and it was a very<br />

sleepy group that eventually returned back to our hotel<br />

having had an amazing evening.<br />

Bright and early the following morning we set off on the<br />

Golden Circle tour of Iceland and were again greeted<br />

by the fantastic sight of our 3 superjeeps. These Land<br />

Rover Discoveries are shipped over to Iceland and<br />

modified locally with not just the massive wheels but<br />

also all the latest technology and comfort you could hope<br />

for, costing nearly as much as the original cars. Having<br />

been gently eased into the capabilities of the jeeps we<br />

headed up into the hills overlooking Reykjavik to witness<br />

the amazing panoramic view of this beautiful city and its<br />

coastal line. Our ‘easing in gently’ period was well and<br />

truly over as we set off back down the mountain in fullon<br />

off-roading mode. We screamed, we laughed, we had<br />

the best fun – little did we know this was a test to see if<br />

we could cope with what was to come!<br />

It was time for a little detour from the itinerary and<br />

we set off through the most stunning land I have ever<br />

seen. We passed so many amazing spots from mountain<br />

tops with stunning views, beautiful waterfalls and lakes<br />

so clear the reflections appeared as mirrors, all the<br />

while being entertained by our fantastic driver Jakob<br />

( Jakob Bond!). His pride of the island and his extensive<br />

knowledge of its history, as well as his wicked sense of<br />

humour, kept us entertained throughout. Our first main<br />

stop was the stunning Gullfoss waterfall, considered<br />

by many to be the queen of Icelandic waterfalls as it<br />

stumbles dramatically into a deep gorge.<br />

Having enjoyed an Icelandic lamb soup (think more along<br />

the lines of a traditional stew but very tasty) we set off<br />

towards the Langjökull glacier but not before some more<br />

adrenaline filled off-roading - my fear of water was soon<br />

forgotten as we raced through rivers and back up steep<br />

river banks! The drive up to the glacier is like something<br />

out of a sci-fi movie as the land around it gets more and<br />

more lunar-like. I knew the glacier would be amazing<br />

but I was in for a shock; it was absolutely awesome, the<br />

complete highlight of the day! More off-roading down<br />

to the glacier – hence the test earlier that morning – and<br />

before long, having let down the air of the huge tyres<br />

we were driving on the glacier. The true magnitude<br />

of this is hard to explain, around were deep crevasses<br />

that Jakob explained were caused by small eruptions<br />

of the volcano that lay beneath, as far as the eye could<br />

see was an ocean of ice – truly amazing! We took our<br />

first tentative steps onto the ice, again accompanied by<br />

the now familiar sounds of the day – our squealings of<br />

delight – in what can only be described as ‘Bambi on ice’.<br />

Having gained our ice legs and wearing enough layers to<br />

attack the Antarctic there was only one thing for it; an<br />

ice cold beer!<br />

We headed back into the jeeps, and whilst still taking in<br />

this truly magical place we headed off once more towards<br />

the Geysir Hot Springs in Selfoss. As we approached<br />

them I couldn’t help but think they reminded me of the<br />

Hobbit movies with small pillars of smoke rising from<br />

the hills. As we got near the smell of sulphur began to<br />

linger, but it wasn’t too off-putting. The Geysir’s in all<br />

different sizes, were a sight to behold. There were lots<br />

of little ‘baby’ Geysirs dotted around the landscape with<br />

a few larger Geysirs mixed up that go off periodically,<br />

along with the eerie blue algae. The daddy of the group,<br />

however, has to be Strokkur who spouts with great<br />

frequency. As we stood around waiting, camera in<br />

hand the tension builds and builds, all eyes staring at<br />

the Geysir waiting for it to erupt. Seconds tick by as we<br />

stare avidly at the bubbling water and feel the heat from<br />

the steam rising, then out of nowhere he explodes high<br />

up into the air, hot spring water gushing up at force then<br />

showering the surrounding area (having cooled down).<br />

Stand too near and you may get a little wet – but it’s all<br />

part of the fun.<br />

A quick respite and we are back in our superjeeps and<br />

heading off towards Thingvellir National Park where<br />

the Icelandic parliament was founded over 1000 years<br />

24 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 25 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


ago. Once again Jakob explained how the earth is ever<br />

so slowly pulling apart along the North-America and<br />

Eurasian tectonic plates, it may be worth adding at<br />

this point he was due to sit a geography exam in 2 days!<br />

Although it is not viable from land level, experienced<br />

snorkellers can swim to the Silfra fissure which is part<br />

of the Mid-Atlantic ridge and experience swimming<br />

between the two continents. For us, however, it was<br />

dry land, stunning scenery, fascinating history and<br />

a steaming cup of hot chocolate as we took it all in;<br />

although I’m not too sure I believe in the giant trolls that<br />

roam the land.<br />

As we continued to walk through this beautiful area Jakob<br />

continued to enthrall us with tales of Viking settlers and<br />

their thirst for blood – they really were scary warriors!<br />

After a short walk we eventually came to stand at the<br />

point where the Viking settlers stood centuries ago to<br />

edict national laws. A rift valley with its high cliffs and<br />

an amazing backdrop for the parliamentary assembly<br />

known as Albing. This was held annually from around<br />

930 AD to <strong>17</strong>98.<br />

The drive back to Reykjavik was a very subdued affair<br />

with 3 exhausted but happy passengers - this time we<br />

stayed on normal roads. The following day we were all<br />

raring to go on another day full of adventures as we<br />

headed to the south of the island. Our superjeep drivers<br />

were there to meet us and after a quick stop at a few<br />

tourist sights we once again headed off the main road<br />

and found ourselves in what is known locally as the land<br />

of a thousand waters. Once again we were having the<br />

best off-roading through rivers and up embankments<br />

– these guys know what they are doing and make sure<br />

every second is as exhilarating as the last. After a<br />

beautiful and scenic drive we arrived at the Hotel Ranga.<br />

Set back from the main road and on the banks of a<br />

beautiful Salmon river, it has the feel of an isolated hotel<br />

with the most amazing views of the Northern Lights.<br />

After a beautiful lunch we set off once again for the<br />

stunning Skogafoss and waterfalls. After a short<br />

(and not too difficult) climb, we found ourselves on a<br />

footpath that leads behind this amazing waterfall – a<br />

photo opportunity if ever there was one. Having taken<br />

in the beauty of the surrounding panoramic view we<br />

set off once more, passing more and more volcanoes<br />

and stunning waterfalls until we arrived at a sight that<br />

truly was to behold; a black sand beach! With the blue/<br />

grey water of the Atlantic crashing on the shoreline and<br />

the giant volcanoes behind us, the stark contrast of the<br />

black sand was a truly incredible sight. Once again our<br />

intrepid drivers decided a little more off-roading was<br />

the order of the day and proceeded to charge around<br />

the deserted ocean edge in an exhilarating and thrilling<br />

experience that again had us all squealing in delight.<br />

From the oceanfront we drove the short distance to<br />

Seljalandsfoss falls, yet again a spectacular falls set in<br />

beautiful surroundings, this truly is an amazing and<br />

contrasting country that will have the most uninspired<br />

traveller gasping at its sheer beauty. After a long and<br />

thrilling day we set off back to Reykjavik, passing<br />

through beautiful little villages and vast open spaces<br />

with amazing mountain backdrops. On our return to<br />

Reykjavik we took the opportunity to wander around the<br />

city once more and take in the incredible Hallgrímskirkja<br />

church, situated in the centre of the city, it is one of<br />

the best-known landmarks and is visible throughout<br />

Reykjavik. We made our way back whilst doing a little<br />

window shopping along Laugavegur before heading out<br />

to dinner at the fabulous Grillmarket, where I was even<br />

tempted to try the local delicacy of minke whale (tastes<br />

just like beef). The food and atmosphere was so amazing<br />

we were offered the chance to go back out to look for<br />

the Northern Lights once more, but we all agreed we had<br />

such an amazing time we really did not feel like we were<br />

missing out, so instead we enjoyed more of Iceland’s<br />

amazing wine.<br />

Our last morning in Iceland gave us one final opportunity<br />

for last minute shopping before we set off for the Blue<br />

Lagoon. Just 15 minutes drive from the airport it’s very<br />

easy to do en-route and is fully equipped with luggage<br />

storage facilities, plenty of showers and hair dryers in<br />

abundance (we ladies have to look our best for the flight<br />

home). Although it was cold outside we soon stepped<br />

into the warm soothing waters that are rich in minerals<br />

like silica and sulphur and bathing in the Blue Lagoon<br />

is reputed to help with skin conditions. For us though<br />

it was all about the relaxation and boy did we relax!<br />

Obligatory face mask applied from the face mask bar we<br />

set about enjoying our last few hours in this wonderful<br />

country that just never ceases to amaze. Our full-on<br />

itinerary from our arrival had not left much time to relax<br />

but we were certainly making up for it now and after a<br />

number of very relaxed and chilled hours we showered<br />

and changed ready for our journey home. After a short<br />

drive to the airport and a quick and easy check-in we<br />

were airside before we knew it and as we all reflected<br />

on the amazing experiences we had shared we were all<br />

in agreement of one thing; Iceland has so much more to<br />

offer than just the Northern Lights and we cannot wait<br />

to return and explore more of this wonderful country.<br />

FACT FILE<br />

Flights: Just under 3 hours from Birmingham, London,<br />

Manchester, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Glasgow and Belfast.<br />

Accommodation: Range of smaller boutique and quirky<br />

properties as well as some chains in the city.<br />

When to go: Iceland is a year-round destination. The<br />

best time to travel depends largely on what you want<br />

to see or do. Generally speaking, visitors are drawn<br />

by the prospect of seeing the Northern Lights should<br />

travel September to March. March is also a good time<br />

to experience winter activities but without the harsh<br />

conditions. If long days appeal then visit between late<br />

May and the end of July when you can experience the<br />

almost perpetual light of the midnight sun. May and<br />

September are great times to visit, especially for flydrives.<br />

If you want to explore the uninhabited interior of<br />

Iceland, you should plan your visit for July and August as<br />

most of the highland 4WD tracks are only open during<br />

this period.<br />

What not to miss: Although famous for the Northern<br />

Lights, the Golden Circle & South Island tours are not to<br />

be missed along with the Blue Lagoon to finish your visit.<br />

Example package: 3 nights with flights from Manchester,<br />

private transfers, accommodation with breakfast,<br />

Northern Lights hunt and entry to Blue Lagoon from<br />

£899 per person. Based on 2 people sharing, conditions<br />

apply. Add on Golden Circle Superjeep tour for an extra<br />

£220pp or the South Island tour for £230pp.<br />

EMIRATES BUSINESS CLASS<br />

Starting your next adventure? <strong>Travel</strong>ling in Business Class helps you arrive inspired. You’ll find thoughtful extras in Business Class that mix<br />

stimulation and relaxation to help you cultivate your passions in your own way.<br />

Send emails, write the next chapter of your book or upload your latest blog post on board. There’s in-seat power for your laptop and a side table for<br />

space to work. Choose a drink from your personal mini-bar and sit back to award-winning entertainment on your personal screen. Recline your seat<br />

into a fully flat bed topped with a comfy mattress and arrive feeling refreshed. Our flat-bed seats are on all of our A380 aircraft.<br />

After your pre-departure beverage you can choose from our menu of regionally inspired gourmet dishes, and enjoy a premium dining experience<br />

that takes you places. Our chefs use fresh, locally sourced ingredients to prepare every course. Meals are served on Royal Doulton bone china plates<br />

with exclusive Robert Welch cutlery. Match your meal with something from our selection of six award winning wines plus fine champagne and vintage<br />

port, selected annually by our sommeliers.<br />

Choose from over 2,500 channels of the latest and greatest movies and must-see TV shows, on demand and in multiple languages. Relax to music<br />

from around the world or play our range of fun games. Witness breaking news, catch up on the world of business or see your team in action with ice<br />

TV Live on select aircraft. Create your personal playlist of favourites and laugh, shed a tear or cheer your way to your destination.<br />

Fly Emirates Business Class from Birmingham, London, Manchester, Glasgow & Newcastle. Book with RB Collection on 01543 258631.<br />

26 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER<br />

Contact Nicola to book your holiday to Iceland.


CALM: ISLAND GETAWAYS<br />

Photograph: Constance Halaveli, Maldives<br />

Hoteliers are really pulling out all of the stops to innovate their properties, in the hope we<br />

will choose them over their competitors for that all-important luxury beach holiday. We<br />

take a look at new hotels planned for 20<strong>17</strong> in destinations further afield as well as some<br />

interesting original ideas...<br />

“Constance continue to<br />

improve their quality resorts<br />

with multi-million pound<br />

improvements to both Belle<br />

Mare Plage and Lémuria.”<br />

Constance Hotels & Resorts have recently<br />

invested heavily giving both Constance<br />

Belle Mare Plage in Mauritius and<br />

Constance Lémuria in the Seychelles a<br />

multi-million-pound refit. Constance<br />

Belle Mare Plage has had all the junior<br />

suites redesigned and the décor in the<br />

other rooms updated. Restaurants and<br />

public areas have been redesigned and<br />

are looking exceptional. One of the<br />

golf courses has reopened after fresh<br />

landscaping and the Blue Penny Cellar<br />

is now one of the leading restaurants on<br />

the East Coast of Mauritius and offers<br />

Wine Flights to their guests. These special<br />

wine tasting sessions are accompanied<br />

by tapas, paired perfectly for the ultimate<br />

culinary experience.<br />

Constance Lémuria in the Seychelles<br />

(main photo), reopened ahead of schedule<br />

to great acclaim. Offering three beaches<br />

and the only 18-hole Championship golf<br />

course in the Seychelles, repeat guests<br />

are looking forward to experiencing the<br />

‘new’ Lémuria! Refurbished rooms and<br />

public areas have been redesigned to give<br />

the resort a fresh feel. Constance Lémuria<br />

is firmly back as one of the best 5-Star<br />

deluxe hotels in the Seychelles!<br />

The exciting news for the Maldives is<br />

the first international flight into the<br />

southern airport in the Maldives. Gan<br />

International airport has undergone a<br />

$50 million development programme and<br />

services are now running from Colombo<br />

with Sri Lankan Airways. This opens up<br />

a number of properties further south<br />

which previously were a little more tricky<br />

to access. These include one of the larger<br />

resorts in the Maldives, the Shangri-La<br />

Villingili Resort & Spa as well as the uber<br />

luxurious Ayada. Built in a genuinely<br />

Maldivian style, this hideaway has 112<br />

spacious villas and suites, all with private<br />

pools and butler service. The lush island is<br />

ringed by pristine coral reefs. Offering an<br />

exceptional range of activities, the resort<br />

also has a choice of seven restaurants and<br />

an extensive spa. Since opening, Ayada<br />

has garnered numerous awards and has<br />

received the Tripadvisor Certificate of<br />

Excellence in 2015 and 2016.<br />

Old favourites One&Only Reethi Rah has<br />

refurbished its villas whilst Four Seasons<br />

joins Jumeirah to offer its fourth hotel in<br />

the Maldives. Tipped as the world’s first<br />

exclusive-use Unesco hideaway; Voavah<br />

is a seven-bedroom private island and<br />

comes with its own 62-foot yacht!<br />

In Asia, Phuket has seen heavy investment<br />

by some of the world’s leading luxury<br />

hotel brands, as well as improved<br />

scheduled flight services, including flights<br />

from regional airports outside of London<br />

such as Birmingham and Manchester.<br />

These airlines, with their award-winning<br />

premium Business and First Class<br />

services, matched with the unique luxury<br />

resorts is putting Phuket back on the map<br />

for high-end holidays.<br />

Rosewood open their new resort in April<br />

with all rooms offering sea views and<br />

private pools. To stand out from the crowd<br />

on the island, Rosewood are building a<br />

resort lake and working towards a gold<br />

certification for sustainability, the only<br />

hotel in Phuket with such an award.<br />

Quirky extra services offered by Rosewood<br />

include “napping nannies” to babysit the<br />

little ones so you can enjoy the resort’s<br />

facilities and complimentary blow-dries<br />

for ladies after a day by the pool!<br />

In July we will see the opening of the<br />

Ritz Carlton Samui on the island of Koh<br />

Samui in Thailand. A contemporary style<br />

property with Thai touches, it is set over<br />

52 acres and will feature suites and pool<br />

villas. A unique feature at the Ritz Carlton<br />

Samui will be a ‘reef pool’ in the middle of<br />

the resort which will be full of fish offering<br />

snorkelling, a great safe environment<br />

for children to experience this activity<br />

for the first time. There will also be a<br />

‘village square’ which will have 20 street<br />

food carts in the evening for clients to try<br />

different foods.<br />

The lesser known Caribbean island of<br />

Canouan in the Grenadines is just 2 miles<br />

long and 1 mile wide. Pink Sands Club<br />

opened at the end of last year with just 26<br />

suites and 6 hotel villas, offering a special<br />

level of luxury. There is also a collection<br />

of 2-7 bedroom standalone villas on the<br />

Canouan Estate that allow use of the Pink<br />

Sands Club facilities. Canouan is perfectly<br />

twinned with Barbados, why not keep the<br />

‘pink’ theme going and stay at the iconic<br />

Sandy Lane.<br />

Waves Hotel & Spa by Elegant Hotels in<br />

Barbados is a new opening on the island.<br />

Described as ‘eco-chic wellness’, the<br />

property is perfect for those looking for<br />

a good value 4* all-inclusive hotel. They<br />

have a heavy emphasis on their spa with<br />

a number of treatments included in the<br />

holiday price.<br />

Nathan visited Anguilla last year, one of<br />

the more exclusive Caribbean islands.<br />

Four Seasons have recently taken over<br />

the management of the former Viceroy<br />

property (main photo). With its dramatic<br />

position and unique pool villa concept it<br />

is one of the ‘must-stay’ properties in the<br />

Caribbean for 20<strong>17</strong>.<br />

28 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 29 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


CALM: LAKES & MOUNTAINS<br />

Photograph: Lake Garda, Italy<br />

There is nothing quite like a deep intake<br />

of breath on the beach. The salty air has<br />

a certain unique smell that transports us<br />

back to childhood days of sandcastles and<br />

sticky fingers covered in melting ice cream.<br />

The bustling cries of laughter, crowds<br />

enjoying quality family time; topping up<br />

the tan, sipping a Mojito, exploring with<br />

sand between the toes. Beach holidays<br />

have firmly established themselves as the<br />

go-to place for many; but consider for a<br />

moment an alternative and one which is<br />

already on many holidaymakers’ lists - a<br />

Lakes & Mountains holiday.<br />

Equally, there is nothing quite like a deep<br />

intake of breath high up in the Alps or The<br />

Dolomites for example. Your brain may<br />

not offer the same childhood memories,<br />

however, your lungs will instantly feel the<br />

benefits of the pure, clean air. You can still<br />

enjoy relaxation; hotels and resorts play a<br />

heavy emphasis on their leisure facilities,<br />

spas and pools, and you can even swim in<br />

some of the lakes. You can still enjoy the<br />

sunshine; most resorts welcome glorious<br />

sunny days throughout the summer<br />

months. If you have not yet considered a<br />

Lakes & Mountains holiday, let us present<br />

a few suggestions to whet the appetite.<br />

And if you are already an expert, you may<br />

well learn something new as we report on<br />

hotel and resort developments along the<br />

way.<br />

Starting in Austria; the 5* Hotel Astoria &<br />

Spa is undergoing a major refurbishment.<br />

Their 800m2 natural swimming lake with<br />

alpine beach is a new feature and in the<br />

spring the hotel’s 97 rooms will have their<br />

‘Alpine Chic’ refurbishment complete,<br />

ready for the summer season.<br />

For fans of Relais & Chateaux properties,<br />

known for their excellent cuisine, the 5*<br />

Tennerhof in Kitzbuhel is a charming,<br />

small romantic property. For the active;<br />

mountain biking, hiking and several golf<br />

courses are on offer.<br />

For fans of ‘The Sound of Music’, why not<br />

stay in Fuschl am See near to where many<br />

scenes from the iconic film were shot. The<br />

4* superior Ebner’s Waldhof am See is<br />

located just 22km from Salzburg. Why not<br />

spend a few nights in the city first before<br />

relaxing by the lake.<br />

Switzerland is a firm favourite, with the<br />

Glacier Express a particularly popular<br />

railway journey up into the mountains.<br />

Direct scheduled flights from regional<br />

airports such as Birmingham into Zurich<br />

allow for easy access. Spend a couple of<br />

nights in the city before taking one of<br />

the iconic railway journeys to Interlaken<br />

where a stay at the 5* Victoria, a member<br />

of the Leading Hotels of the World is a<br />

must. During July & August, Interlaken<br />

holds a number of free open-air concerts<br />

with jazz bands and folklore ensembles<br />

from the region.<br />

Continue your Switzerland adventure with<br />

your next stop at Lake Lucerne. The Hotel<br />

Schweizerhof which is ideally situated by<br />

the railway station was recognised as ‘Best<br />

Historic Hotel in Europe’ last November.<br />

Lucerne itself holds a number of festivals<br />

and events throughout the year including<br />

the Lucerne Regatta which is over 100<br />

years old with over 1000 participants. The<br />

Lucerne Festival at the end of summer<br />

(10th August - 10th September) holds a<br />

variety of concerts from Mozart to the<br />

Modernists (www.lucernefestival.com).<br />

Take advantage of the Lucerne card while<br />

you are there for access to a range of<br />

museums and galleries.<br />

Our final stop in Switzerland is the<br />

Montreux Riviera where you will find<br />

Chateaux Chillon, Lavaux Vineyards,<br />

Rochers de Naye, the Cogwheel Railway,<br />

Chaplin’s World, Nestle World HQ and<br />

the Alimentarium. On the shores of Lake<br />

Geneva is the very grand Fairmont Le<br />

Montreux Palace. Famous for a myriad of<br />

reasons, including being a sanctuary away<br />

from the spotlight for Freddie Mercury in<br />

1978, from where several Queen albumns<br />

were recorded.<br />

One of the most popular groups of lakes is<br />

in Italy where you can visit Lakes Garda,<br />

Como and Maggiore. The first is the<br />

most popular and perfect for a first-time<br />

visitor, however, why not consider one of<br />

the smaller lakes if it isn’t your first visit.<br />

For example, Verona twins perfectly with<br />

Lake Como. Enjoy Verona’s history and<br />

culture, catch an opera performance at<br />

the iconic Arena di Verona. Continue<br />

onto Lake Como and stay at the 5* Grand<br />

Hotel Tremezzo, recently the recipient<br />

of the ‘Hotel of the Year’ accolade at the<br />

Preferred Hotels Awards of Excellence.<br />

The hotel dates back to 1910 and has a<br />

sensational all-suite top floor stylishly<br />

designed by the Italian designer Venelli<br />

Kramer. The lavishly-appointed suites<br />

each come with their own private terrace,<br />

outdoor jacuzzi, butler service and<br />

panoramic views of the lake.<br />

If you prefer, Lake Garda twins well with<br />

Milan where you could also take in an<br />

opera and enjoy a little shopping before<br />

relaxing by the Lake, Bellini in hand.<br />

30 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 31 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


BAYSIDE STORY<br />

Words & photograph by Andrew Youngson<br />

You couldn’t ask for a more relaxing city break than San Francisco. Long boulevards of<br />

Victorian town houses, breath-taking views over the bay, and quiet spots from which to<br />

watch the world drift by.<br />

It was mid-November, but the sun was steady and<br />

strong as it beat down on Dolores Park. A snapshot of<br />

San Francisco weekend life lay in front of me, made<br />

up of picnicking families, solo sunbathers, laughing<br />

children and energetic sporty-types enjoying the late<br />

Autumn heatwave.<br />

I drank in the scene from my palm tree-lined vantage<br />

point at the uppermost ridge of the park, which<br />

is separated into two amphitheatre-like bowls of<br />

greenery. Below, kids ran underneath a rainbow<br />

parachute; men with top knots and technicolour<br />

yoga pants walked acrobatically across elasticated<br />

tightropes suspended between trees; grandmothers<br />

posed for family photos with grandchildren; dogs<br />

leapt about, catching balls slung by their owners who<br />

lazed on blankets; and fresh arrivals laden with lunch<br />

supplies and rolled up mats disembarked the tram<br />

which hems the eastern edge of the park.<br />

A pair of blue balloons drifted above the park, let<br />

go by an absent-minded child playing below. My<br />

eye tracked the increasingly swift trajectory of the<br />

balloons, across the undulating streets of Haight-<br />

Ashbury and Golden Gate Park to the left, and the<br />

peak of Russian Hill and the spiky towers of the<br />

Financial district to the right. A perfect moment to<br />

capture, I thought to myself. San Francisco in all its<br />

laidback glory.<br />

This was the feeling I wanted – and indeed expected<br />

– from my 10-day holiday in the western coast US<br />

city famed for its chilled pace, liberal politics and<br />

stunning vistas. During the next week-and-a-bit<br />

spent on the San Francisco (SF) peninsula, and<br />

its neighbouring East Bay, I would pack in a host<br />

of wonderful experiences - from sightseeing, to<br />

cultural jaunts, and oh-so-much-food, but I did so in<br />

a relaxed manner and pace. Much like its residents, I<br />

simply didn’t ever feel the need to rush.<br />

The Mission – a bohemian hotspot<br />

My first stop for the trip was The Mission district,<br />

a neighbourhood in east central SF named after the<br />

Spanish missionaries who settled there in the 18th<br />

century. It’s now home to a variety of communities,<br />

cuisines and lifestyles, from Latin American enclaves<br />

where you can find some of the finest tacquerias in<br />

the Bay area, to vintage clothing stores and packed<br />

coffee houses each attracting bohemian crowds,<br />

young professionals and families alike.<br />

Grabbing a morning brew from Philz Coffee – a<br />

popular chain in the SF area where the baristas pride<br />

themselves on their in-depth knowledge of the pourover<br />

method of creating the perfect cup – I wandered<br />

back to my apartment on Shotwell Street.<br />

Each townhouse I walked past was a unique<br />

variation of the Victorian townhouse: here a pastel<br />

blue stack; there a faux Tudor frontage. This neverending<br />

multiplicity of townhouse styles is a feature<br />

throughout San Francisco, and was a constant delight<br />

on my many long walks around the city.<br />

As a base of operations for exploring the city,<br />

The Mission was a great spot to begin. The BART<br />

underground train takes you from the airport<br />

directly into the heart of the neighbourhood (16th and<br />

24th streets stations), and from there onwards to the<br />

waterfront Embarcadero in the north-east corner of<br />

the peninsula.<br />

32 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 33 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


The Mission is also a great neighbourhood to walk<br />

around. The internet abounds with ideas for walking<br />

tours in the district. Mine took me on a three-hour<br />

circuit, first taking in Clarion Alley, a backstreet<br />

between Valencia and Mission streets which features<br />

huge frescos of graffiti art. Political statements rallying<br />

against cultural and governmental behemoths of the<br />

day exist side by side in this alleyway exhibition with<br />

colourful celebrations of liberal ideals and free love.<br />

From there I walked to Market Street, the largest<br />

and most iconic thoroughfare in SF, and rounded<br />

up through handsome residential streets to Alamo<br />

Square Park, where the postcard perfect Painted<br />

Ladies stand all in a row. These pristinely manicured<br />

Victorian houses are just as you see them in<br />

guidebooks and travel brochures. From here I took<br />

the path of Steiner and Sanchez Streets, past yuppie<br />

juice bars, dog friendly parks, and bustling bars.<br />

A word of warning for anyone travelling by foot<br />

around San Francisco: everything you have ever<br />

heard is true. The hills can be taxing on your legs,<br />

knees and energy levels. Particularly in the west<br />

side of SF, streets suddenly rise in front of you as if<br />

the city is folded Inception-style. But it is extremely<br />

gratifying to make the effort.<br />

The city is largely laid out in a grid, meaning a<br />

wander up hill and down dale offers numerous<br />

stunning views along boulevards and out across the<br />

waterfronts. And then of course there are the blissful<br />

downhill stretches, offering enough respite to work<br />

up the strength for the next incline.<br />

The bridge and the rock<br />

There are no ifs or buts about it, any visit to SF must<br />

involve trips to the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz<br />

Island. On my obligatory (though hugely enjoyable)<br />

pilgrimages to the world-famous sites, the weather<br />

couldn’t have been more different (again, something<br />

SF is famous for).<br />

As stereotypical a SF scene as the sunny Dolores Park<br />

was, so was my thoroughly foggy trip to the former<br />

federal prison. On the morning of my boat ride to<br />

Alcatraz, the whole bay was steeped in a thick white<br />

mist which had arrived in the early morning and<br />

blanketed the city. Only the peaks of the hills and the<br />

very tips of the Golden Gate Bridge seemed to escape<br />

its fluffy grip.<br />

I had boarded the three-storey boat at pier 33<br />

alongside hundreds of fellow ‘inmates’ only moments<br />

beforehand. Alcatraz, which from August 1934 to<br />

until March 1963 had housed some of America’s most<br />

dangerous and infamous criminals, is only 1 ¼ miles<br />

off the coast of the city, but a world away in terms of<br />

its austere appearance.<br />

Fifteen minutes after setting sail into the fog, the<br />

lighthouse on the island suddenly emerged in front<br />

of me. Upon arriving at the jetty of the 47-acre island,<br />

visitors have until the last boat leaves (4.30pm in<br />

the autumn and winter months, unless you’re lucky<br />

enough to get a ticket on one of the coveted night<br />

tours) to explore the many attractions. Chief among<br />

them of course is the main prison, though there is<br />

plenty more besides, from a nature walk along the<br />

Agave trail on the island’s south-east side; to the New<br />

Industries building on Alcatraz’s west side, which<br />

today houses exhibits (most recently one by Chinese<br />

artist and activist, Ai Wei Wei).<br />

Like most guests, I headed up the hill straight to the<br />

main prison (or ‘cell house’) to take the 45-minute<br />

self-guided audio tour. Featuring narration and<br />

testimonials from guards and criminals, who had<br />

first-hand knowledge of the notorious federal prison<br />

in the final years of its operation, the tour offers<br />

fascinating and at times chilling insights into life on<br />

the island.<br />

You might be surrounded by fellow tourists as you<br />

meander the cells, long echoing corridors, wide<br />

dining hall and hard concrete parade grounds, but<br />

the excellent audio tour takes you away from the<br />

crowds. As you make your way around, the ghosts of<br />

inmates past rattle their bars and yell out as you pass<br />

by. A creepy soundscape indeed, one which perfectly<br />

matched the misty landscape outside the walls of the<br />

prison.<br />

If Alcatraz had the perfect meteorological setting, so<br />

did my walk along the Golden Gate Bridge a few days<br />

later. I couldn’t have asked for a better day to tackle<br />

the 5.4 kilometre round trip across the world-famous<br />

bridge. Crystal clear air and a blue sky above meant<br />

I could take in the stunning views at either end –<br />

Presidio Park at the SF peninsula side; and the Marin<br />

Headlands opposite.<br />

The views are reason enough to embark on a trip<br />

along the Golden Gate Bridge, but the bridge is a<br />

marvel in itself. The visitors centre, plus plaques and<br />

boards at either end, crow about the size, scale and<br />

historical significance of the steel structure – and<br />

rightly so. It’s a marvel to behold.<br />

Getting out and dining in<br />

San Francisco has enough to hold your interest for<br />

days on end, but part of the reason so many flock to<br />

it throughout the year, is because of its proximity to<br />

other Californian hotspots. The Hollywood Hills are<br />

only a five-hour drive away; Las Vegas a 90-minute<br />

flight; the majesty of Yosemite National Park a mere<br />

three hours’ drive. Closer still are Silicon Valley and<br />

San Jose (40 and 60 minutes drive respectively) to the<br />

south, and Oakland and Berkeley to the east (15 and<br />

20 minutes by BART). Napa Valley, with its worldfamous<br />

wineries is just 2 hours away and can make<br />

a great area to explore on a self-drive tour. The area<br />

warrants much more than just a day trip.<br />

For a short sidebar during my SF holiday, I chose<br />

to experience the delights of the latter two. An<br />

increasingly popular area for young professionals<br />

and families, the East Bay has plenty to offer if you’re<br />

looking to experience the residential side of the Bay<br />

area.<br />

A word of warning though: like so many parts of the<br />

USA, venturing beyond the bounds of the city is easier<br />

if you have your own means of transport. Not that I<br />

did; for the most part I could supplement buses and<br />

the BART with the occasional taxi ride to reach the<br />

places I wanted to go to. But had I hired a car, visiting<br />

farther flung attractions or even simply buying<br />

groceries would have been far easier.<br />

And on the matter of eating…food played a major<br />

part of my SF holiday and some of the finest meals<br />

I had were in the East Bay. Case in point, Pizzaiolo<br />

at 5008 Telegraph Avenue was quite simply the best<br />

meal of the whole holiday. A buzzing hideaway for<br />

diners and cocktail drinkers, the cosy restaurant<br />

offers beautifully wood-fired pizzas, as well as an<br />

array of inventive twists on Italian specialties. My<br />

partner Alexander and I shared a starter of sweet<br />

potatoes, charred to perfection in the oven, glazed<br />

in brown butter, honey and topped with almonds.<br />

From there I had the spaghetti alla puttanesca with<br />

toasted breadcrumbs, while Alex had the margherita<br />

pizza. Both were packed with flavour and beautifully<br />

presented. Oh, and did I mention cocktails? The<br />

Derby (bourbon, vermouth and Cointreau) and Last<br />

Word (gin, lime, green chartreuse and maraschino<br />

liqueur) were the ideal zingy accompaniments for the<br />

meal.<br />

Similarly, I had a very fine brunch a few days later<br />

in Berkeley. Most famous as a centre of world class<br />

education (due to being the site of University of<br />

California, Berkeley) the waterside city has all the<br />

hallmarks of a beautifully cloistered college town.<br />

Think more cafes than you can shake a mortarboard<br />

at; dozens of bookshops, new and vintage; and<br />

enough eateries to keep even the most ardent vegan<br />

from passing out.<br />

At one such spot, Saturn Cafe, we tucked into<br />

wonderful Space Cowboy burgers, packed with<br />

signature vegan patties, “bacon” and onion strings.<br />

To work it off, we took a wander round the grounds of<br />

Berkeley university, sharing its tree-lined walkways<br />

and grand columned entryways with scores of<br />

students drifting from class to class.<br />

So inspired was I by Berkeley’s leafy surrounds, I<br />

immediately planned an excursion to see another<br />

East Bay landmark known for its luscious greenery<br />

– Redwood Regional Park. Only a 20-minute drive<br />

(or taxi ride in my case) from downtown Oakland,<br />

the sprawling forest occupies a great swathe of the<br />

eastern ridge a few miles from the city. It abounds<br />

with grove upon grove of 18th century, 150-foot coast<br />

redwoods – the third-generation descendants of the<br />

Sequoia sempervirens which once stood there until<br />

they were felled by loggers.<br />

Logging stopped a long time ago, and what stands<br />

in its place is a sprawling verdant monument,<br />

comprising numerous hiking trails, picnic spots, and<br />

vantage points offering vistas right across the East<br />

Bay and out into the waters beyond.<br />

Downtown<br />

From one towering forest to a concrete urban jungle,<br />

my final days of the holiday were spent back in SF,<br />

in the very heart of downtown: Union Square. It was<br />

more than a month before Christmas, but Union<br />

Square and its surrounding shop fronts were aglow<br />

with fairy lights, tinsel and baubles. Most auspicious<br />

of all was the 200-foot fir tree being erected at the<br />

centre of the square.<br />

A shopper’s paradise, downtown SF has everything<br />

you would expect from a cosmopolitan centre, from<br />

fashion outlets like Vuitton and Saint Laurent, to huge<br />

department stores such Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s.<br />

Retail therapy wasn’t high on my agenda, though the<br />

ecosystem of restaurants, bars and cafes was.<br />

There’s just something about the buzz of a city centre,<br />

where you’re surrounded by gargantuan buildings<br />

all around you. It’s part of why I love American city<br />

breaks – the sheer scale. And then, of course, there’s<br />

something else about looking out on the glittering<br />

skyline of towering giants from your 27th floor kingsize<br />

hotel room!<br />

The Grand Hyatt Union Square offers an extremely<br />

comfortable stay for visitors to the city, and the<br />

location is ideal. But it was the window I was most<br />

in love with. The hotel offers rooms with either city<br />

or bay views. Knowing I would have plenty of time to<br />

look out at the bay on my Alcatraz and Golden Gate<br />

Bridge jaunts, I had selected the city view. And boy<br />

was I glad I did.<br />

From my bird’s nest high above the traffic, I<br />

happily spent what seemed like hours looking out<br />

at the cityscape, imagining all the lives and stories<br />

happening within apartment blocks, offices, and<br />

streets.<br />

Something dawned on me then: for all of San<br />

Francisco’s modern touches and proximity to the<br />

likes of Silicon Valley, it remains steeped in nostalgia.<br />

I thought back to a plaque I had seen on the Pier 3<br />

walkway a day earlier:<br />

“San Francisco is 49 square miles surrounded by<br />

reality” – Paul Kantner.<br />

Kantner, the psychedelic rock star, summed it up<br />

perfectly. For me and so many others who come to<br />

SF, this will always be the hippie city in the mist,<br />

where all are welcome to come and wander in a state<br />

of reverie, and forget the world outside for a bit.<br />

FACT FILE<br />

Did you know?<br />

Before it became known as San Francisco in 1847,<br />

the original Spanish settlement in the north-eastern<br />

end of the peninsula where the city began was<br />

called Yerba Buena – a name taken from the North<br />

American rambling aromatic herb. Today, the Yerba<br />

Buena Centre for the Arts on the corner of Mission<br />

and 3rd Streets features visual art and performance<br />

that celebrate the Bay Area’s diverse communities.<br />

About the Weather<br />

Don’t listen to what some people say about SF not<br />

having any seasons. Sure, the average daytime<br />

temperature clings somewhere around the 20<br />

degrees Celsius mark for much of the year. But the<br />

city can experience several seasons in one day as far<br />

as rain, wind and fog are concerned. Make sure to<br />

take a sturdy umbrella!<br />

How to book<br />

Contact RB Collection to book your holiday to San<br />

Francisco and California. Members of the team have<br />

visited and can offer first-hand knowledge and advice<br />

to you.<br />

Andrew flew into San Francisco. There are two new<br />

services from the UK to San Jose & Oakland.<br />

34 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 35 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


BATHING IN THE<br />

SANTORINI SUNSET<br />

Words by Andrew Youngson<br />

Andrew Youngson travels to Santorini and samples the home-grown delicacies and<br />

geologically-formed marvels of the southern Cycladic island.<br />

It’s said the true Santorini experience is all about<br />

relaxation; everything else is gravy. From my<br />

experiences during a short but blissful break to the<br />

small Greek island, it certainly seems to be true.<br />

Though there’s a lot to be said about the gravy.<br />

I revelled in the daily activities – driving from coast<br />

to coast, hopping from beach to beach, ambling from<br />

boutique to boutique – and my four day autumnal trip<br />

also taught me what it means to holiday Santorinistyle:<br />

Drift into luxurious naps whenever the urge<br />

creeps upon you; savour the local cuisine over long<br />

meals; drink in the sights (and the wine) with equal<br />

relish; and bathe in the most beautiful sunsets you<br />

will ever see.<br />

My abode for the holiday was a spacious and pristinely<br />

white three-bedroomed villa in the heart of the<br />

island’s capital, Fira. A 10-minute taxi ride from the<br />

airport, the town is just north of central Santorini,<br />

its closely-knit network of hotels, apartments, and<br />

restaurants hugging tightly to the top of the island’s<br />

western cliffside. Much like seats in an amphitheatre,<br />

every street, veranda and sun-terrace in Fira enjoys<br />

uninterrupted views of the caldera – the cauldronlike<br />

bay which constitutes the volcanically-formed<br />

island.<br />

Take, for example, the view from my villa. Looking<br />

out from my hot tub, a crisp glass of locally-made<br />

Assyrtiko white wine in my hand, practically the<br />

whole Santorini archipelago unfolded around me. To<br />

my far right I could see as far north as Oia, the most<br />

beautiful of the island’s dwellings, resplendent with<br />

marble-clad streets, designer boutiques and worldfamous<br />

blue-domed white churches; and to my left<br />

lay the south, where Santorini’s best beaches can<br />

be found as well as its lighthouse-tipped peninsula,<br />

Cape Akrotiri.<br />

Straight ahead of me (i.e. far below my cliffside<br />

vantage point) squatted Nea Kameni, the uninhabited<br />

volcanic heart of Santorini. By comparison to the<br />

steeply undulating ridges of the main island around<br />

it, Nea Kameni is a low-lying brown mound featuring<br />

scant vegetation. But appearances can be deceiving –<br />

it is one of the most geologically fascinating parts of<br />

the archipelago. Due to the volcanic activity bubbling<br />

far below its surface, Nea Kameni grows in height by<br />

three centimetres per year, and sports a natural hot<br />

springs on the neighbouring islet of Palia Kameni,<br />

which can be swum in safety (but be warned, white<br />

swimming gear will be dyed orange!)<br />

The dramatic geological history of Santorini – or Thera<br />

to use its Greek name – has long been a selling point<br />

for tourists and volcanologists. The archipelago’s<br />

current morphology is the result of a series of<br />

eruptions throughout the millennia, perhaps most<br />

famously in the gargantuan explosion around 1600<br />

BC that effectively devastated the Minoan civilisation.<br />

Such is the fascination in the island’s geological<br />

36 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 37 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


history, it has even been positioned as a front-runner<br />

for the real life-inspiration behind Plato’s Atlantis –<br />

a lovely hypothesis that has been grabbed with both<br />

hands by the islanders who have slapped the Atlantis<br />

brand on everything from wine, to shops, hotels and<br />

a particularly fine bookshop in Oia.<br />

Today, hot springs aside, Santorini’s volcanism has<br />

been quiet for nearly 60 years; this modern-day<br />

Atlantis is a haven of tranquillity. The glistening<br />

Aegean waters which envelope Santorini are calm<br />

and clear, providing safe passage for a variety of daily<br />

seaborne activity, from dinky fishing boats to vast<br />

cruise liners. From my clifftop lookout point, I spent<br />

happy hours surveying the coming and going water<br />

life and watching fellow holiday-makers coming<br />

ashore at the old port below, some zigzagging their<br />

way up the hillside to Fira while sat astride mules,<br />

others (closer to my lazy heart) taking the cable car.<br />

On the occasions I did actually step out of the hot tub,<br />

I ventured out into the island to take a closer look.<br />

Taxis can be easily booked throughout Santorini<br />

and relatively inexpensively so, and buses leave<br />

Fira’s centre in all directions every hour. However,<br />

the freedom a hire car offers can’t be matched.<br />

With a 50km speed limit, which is (largely) adhered<br />

to by tourist and local alike, I found driving around<br />

Santorini a surprisingly serene affair. The only time<br />

I was slightly awakened from my reverie was on the<br />

steep winding road up to the island’s highest point,<br />

10 minutes from the town of Pyrgos. Not a journey<br />

for the faint-hearted, but definitely worth it for the<br />

360-degree views from Mount Profitis IIias, the 18th<br />

century monastery which proudly awaits at the 450<br />

metre-high pinnacle of the island.<br />

The car was ideal for exploring such nooks and<br />

crannies on the island, including the lesser-known<br />

ports on its eastern flank. While they don’t enjoy the<br />

western-coast’s aspects upon the stunning sunsets,<br />

coves such as Pori Beach in the north-east, with<br />

its oxidised-iron cliff and volcanic pebbles, offer<br />

secluded moments away from the crowds.<br />

As for the south of Santorini, a particular highlight<br />

for me came in the form of ancient Akrotiri, an active<br />

archaeological excavation site which offers visitors<br />

the opportunity to see the remains of a genuine<br />

Minoan settlement. Covered beneath a permanent<br />

climate controlled canopy, the archaeological site<br />

comprises a sprawling network of ruined buildings,<br />

squares and streets, some of which you are even able<br />

to step off the elevated walkways to stroll among.<br />

Like a Greek Pompeii, the architecture and artefacts<br />

of ancient Akrotiri are remarkably preserved by<br />

volcanic ash, with decades of painstaking excavation<br />

work having uncovered everything from intricately<br />

designed pottery to sophisticated frescoes. While the<br />

majority of the 3000-year-old objects are stored and<br />

displayed in museums elsewhere in the world, the<br />

opportunity to see the foundations, walls and lintels<br />

of the Bronze Age village up close – paired with the<br />

archaeological site’s excellent information displays –<br />

make this a fascinating place to visit and experience,<br />

whether a fan of ancient history or not.<br />

But those seeking a more 21st century Santorini<br />

experience need not be afraid. From air conditioned,<br />

wifi-enabled accommodation, to crystal clear mobile<br />

reception throughout, it’s the most modern Greek<br />

island I have ever visited. It’s also perhaps the most<br />

certain of who its visitors are and what they want.<br />

It’s a million miles from the rowdy clubs of Corfu<br />

and alcohol-fuelled beach parties of Ios, but that’s<br />

not to say Santorini’s a sleepy suburban cul-de-sac.<br />

Instead, like-minded sunset gazers of all ages seem<br />

to coexist harmoniously on the island, each visitor<br />

united in what they are here for – to make the short<br />

flight (a mere three-and-a-half hours from the UK)<br />

to a predictably sun-soaked retreat where they can<br />

unwind, let the hours slip by and sample the local<br />

delicacies.<br />

Speaking of food, where do I start? Despite its tiny<br />

annual rainfall of 15 inches (we Brits should be so<br />

lucky), Santorini’s vineyards, valleys and groves<br />

abound with delicious fare, thanks largely to the<br />

heavy morning dew. Most renowned, of course,<br />

are the island’s tomatoes – as succulent as they are<br />

famed to be – but there’s plenty more besides to<br />

sample in the myriad of eateries which can be found<br />

on practically every corner.<br />

I discovered very quickly upon arriving on Santorini<br />

that booking ahead at restaurants, particularly<br />

the most highly recommended ones, is a must on<br />

the island, though there’s a lot to be said for taking<br />

chances, as I found on my first night. Stumbling upon<br />

an unassuming street side tavern on Fira’s main drag<br />

proved to be the ideal venue for a newbie. A fairly<br />

scattershot selection of meze starters took me on a<br />

culinary journey around the island’s tasty produce,<br />

from creamy fava puree to zingy sesame-coated<br />

feta, fried sundried tomatoes and green olives, sweet<br />

white eggplant, crunchy zucchini croquettes, cooling<br />

tzatziki and home-baked bread.<br />

In all honesty, I didn’t even make it past the starters<br />

on that first evening. Rest assured, I would go on<br />

to sample some wonderful main dishes during my<br />

stay. Particular highlights were a beautiful chicken<br />

souvlaki at Salt & Pepper in Fira, and a zesty panfried<br />

salmon, which I savoured over a candle-lit meal<br />

at one of Santorini’s finest restaurants, Ambrosia, a<br />

cliffside restaurant in Oia.<br />

A quick moment to discuss money. While Santorini is<br />

known to be one of the more expensive Greek islands,<br />

it stands to reason that the more exclusive restaurants,<br />

apartments and hotels with their premium positions<br />

overlooking the bay, will come at a price (though it’s<br />

still a far cry from the expense of many a European<br />

city break). But with such a rich array of places to eat,<br />

stay and visit you really shouldn’t be paying top dollar<br />

the whole way.<br />

My advice for experiencing the full Santorini offering<br />

is to mix it up: Whether it’s a 75 Euro decadent threecourse<br />

meal in a luxury Oia restaurant or 15 Euros for<br />

a sumptuous lunch at a roadside taverna; a 30 Euro<br />

bottle of wine or a three Euro bottle of local beer;<br />

bathing in the warm volcanic waters of the caldera<br />

basin, or taking a dip in the waves of the island’s<br />

outer rim – you won’t be left disappointed.<br />

It’s fair to say I would return to Santorini in a<br />

heartbeat, but four days and four nights was a<br />

surprisingly satisfying duration. The size of the<br />

island (90 square kilometres to be precise) is ideal for<br />

anyone wanting to get a feel for a place in a relatively<br />

short time, while leaving some gems to be explored on<br />

a return trip. Many of my fellow visitors I spoke with<br />

were making return trips. This southern jewel of the<br />

Cyclades seems to take hold of people’s imaginations<br />

and hearts very quickly, and I could see why.<br />

Whether visiting for a long weekend, or a full-blown<br />

fortnight, my parting advice is this: if you do anything<br />

during your trip, make sure to experience Santorini<br />

from the waterside. The interplay between the<br />

volcanic island and its serene waters are what make<br />

the island so special – and nowhere was this brought<br />

home to me more than on my last day during the<br />

sunset catamaran cruise.<br />

Like something out of a movie, I spent a pictureperfect<br />

five hours aboard the 20-man vessel, skipping<br />

from one geologically distinct landmark to the next.<br />

Setting sail from the Vlichada beach marine midafternoon,<br />

we visited the oxidised iron Red Beach,<br />

snorkelled with the fish at the limestone White Beach,<br />

and floated right to the edge of the volcanic ash Black<br />

Beach with its craggy caves that cut straight into the<br />

cliffside.<br />

From there it was off to the heart of the volcano<br />

itself for the aforementioned hot springs, before a<br />

sumptuous meal on board and then off into the open<br />

waters for the stunning crescendo of the cruise: the<br />

sunset. As we skimmed through the dusky waters, the<br />

brilliant orange of the sun seemed to mesmerise us,<br />

our voices suddenly hushed as we tracked its rapid<br />

descent to the water’s edge.<br />

Soon we were steeped in the half-light of the island’s<br />

‘blue hour’, our eyes slowly shifting from the horizon<br />

back to the island behind us. The lights of Santorini<br />

welcomed us home, twinkling in its patches of hilltop<br />

towns, and portside harbours. There’s a reason that<br />

visitors to Santorini remember the sunsets above all,<br />

I thought to myself quietly.<br />

FACT FILE<br />

Time to go:<br />

Santorini enjoys an enviable seven months of<br />

predictably warm weather, making it a popular<br />

destination from spring to late autumn. However,<br />

if heat is your main priority and you don’t mind the<br />

crowds, June to September is best, with an average<br />

daytime temperature of around 26-30 degrees<br />

Celsius. For sightseers, outside of high season is<br />

better – so April, May and October. And of course,<br />

accommodation is cheaper during low season<br />

(December to March) though the availability of direct<br />

flights from the UK drops significantly and many<br />

businesses close in the dead of winter.<br />

A bit of history:<br />

After the collapse of the Bronze Age, it’s thought the<br />

Phoenicians founded a site on Santorini, naming<br />

the island Callista. It was later named Thera by the<br />

Dorians, before being ruled by the Roman Empire.<br />

After its fall, it changed hands to the Byzantine<br />

Empire, then onto Ottoman rule. In 1830, Santorini<br />

was united with Greece under the Treaty of London.<br />

Contact Nathan at RB Collection to book your<br />

holiday to Santorini on 01543 258631 or email:<br />

vip@rbcollection.com.<br />

38 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


A CULINARY EXPERIENCE:<br />

THE LEELA PALACE, DELHI<br />

Food is a big part of any visit to India as Oliver found out when he visited the<br />

Leela Palace last year.<br />

My experience at the Leela Palace in Delhi was a true delight. The hotel is possibly the<br />

most palatial in all of Delhi with a good location to explore the city. Upon entering the<br />

large main entrance, I knew I was in for a special treat. The highlight of our tour was<br />

in no doubt; the 4,800 sq ft Presidential Suite with no less than 8 bedrooms, 2 sitting<br />

rooms and dining room for 12. The panoramic windows offered jaw-dropping views<br />

of the city. This was a suite made for royalty and dignitaries and in fact, USA Vice<br />

President John Kerry had stayed there the week before. Everything about this room<br />

was phenomenal.<br />

I managed to stretch our tour out a little longer to take it all in and imagine what it must<br />

be like to stay in such a suite. I wondered if they issued you with a map when you check<br />

in as it would be easy to get lost amongst its many rooms, including a private gym! The<br />

hotel’s standard rooms followed the same luxurious feel and were a good size, and so<br />

if you are not royalty or a visiting politician then at least you have the chance to sample<br />

the hotel’s unique experience in Delhi. The rooftop infinity pool must be one of the<br />

most photographed pools in all of India and it is easy to see why.<br />

te was<br />

‘Guided warmly<br />

through the menu<br />

by our waiter Raj,<br />

we handed over<br />

all responsibility<br />

and asked to be<br />

surprised by the<br />

Chef.’<br />

After the inspection visit, it was time to sit down and experience the cuisine, something<br />

which Rajat Kalia has been working to innovate and develop since he became the new<br />

Food & Beverage Manager at the hotel in September 2016. Rajat started his career<br />

with Leela, who operate 9 hotels in India including 1 in Goa, over 10 years ago when<br />

he worked at the Leela Palace in Bengaluru. He comes with great knowledge and<br />

understanding of dining trends and innovative concepts which can enhance guest<br />

experiences.<br />

Needless to say, the hotel has a number of excellent eateries to choose from, 6 in<br />

fact and our choice was Jamavar, their Indian speciality restaurant. We had been on<br />

frustratingly restricted diets during our week in India to avoid the infamous ‘Delhi<br />

Belly’ but now we were towards the end of our trip who could resist sampling this<br />

menu. Guided warmly through the menu by our waiter Raj, we handed over all<br />

responsibility and asked to be surprised by the Chef.<br />

We were not disappointed. As you may know, Indian cuisine in its motherland is very<br />

different to what we have in the UK and it was fun to learn as we ate about where<br />

in India the various dishes were inspired from. My favourite was Bharwan Tandoori<br />

Broccoli. We also sampled Daal Jamavar, Awadhi; a lamb delicacy lightly flavoured with<br />

saffron and Dhaniya Murg, boneless drums of chicken cooked with pounded coriander.<br />

Leela offer an excellent twin-centre package staying The Leela Palace in Delhi and its<br />

sister property in Udaipur. Choose from a 4-night package (Palace Journeys) with 2<br />

nights in each hotel or the longer Cultural Journeys package with 3 nights at the Leela<br />

in Goa to relax after Delhi and Udaipur. The Leela Palace Udaipur is the only modern<br />

palace hotel by Lake Pichola where you can enjoy a boat ride as well as visit SajjanGarh,<br />

the monsoon palace of the Udaipur royalty, perched on a hilltop, Saheliyon Ki Bari, Jag<br />

Mandir, BhartiyaLok Kala Mandir, Pratap Memorial and Ahar Museum.<br />

Contact RB Collection to arrange your holiday to India.


MEET THE CAPTAIN<br />

Interview: Serena Melani, Regent Seven Seas Cruises<br />

Another glass ceiling in the cruise world shattered last year as luxury line Regent<br />

Seven Seas Cruises announced its first female captain. Serena Melani, 42, of<br />

Italy, has been appointed the new master of the 48,075-ton Seven Seas Mariner,<br />

a position that puts her in charge of 450 crew.<br />

Melani’s first job at sea was with a cargo ship where she says she was the only<br />

woman on board. She also worked on oil and gas tankers for several years<br />

before moving to cruise ships. She joined Regent in 2010, rising through the<br />

ranks of deck officers.<br />

..<br />

“I am a female in<br />

a traditionally<br />

male environment,<br />

but when you are<br />

onboard, you are<br />

part of a team.<br />

Regardless of your<br />

gender, you have a<br />

job to do and you<br />

must do it well.”<br />

Tell us about your first sailing as captain?<br />

My maiden voyage was back in February sailing South America on board Seven Seas<br />

Mariner. It was an extraordinary maiden itinerary visiting Uruguay, Argentina and<br />

Brazil. The highlight was cruising the Amazon River. I then sailed two cruises around<br />

the Caribbean Sea and East Coast USA before signing off in Miami.<br />

Tell us a bit about your background.<br />

I grew up in Tuscany in a small town on the coast and I have memories of the sea since<br />

before I can remember. I am the first person in my family with a career at sea and<br />

started on cargo ships. My early career was a great professional experience.<br />

Where do you live when not at sea?<br />

My husband is Croatian and grew up in Dubrovnik. We both love nature and animals<br />

and since I was a child I dreamed of having a garden. So we chose to live on the beautiful<br />

island of Korcula. From my terrace, I can see the Adriatic Sea, hills full of olive trees<br />

and the other big passion in my life, mountains.<br />

Why a career at sea?<br />

As mentioned, I grew up with the ocean, and I also have a traveller’s soul. The boundless,<br />

infinite horizon gives me an incredible sense of freedom.<br />

What tips would you give anyone going on a cruise for the first time?<br />

A cruise ship is like a small village. You can find any kind of character and it’s an<br />

opportunity to have fantastic experiences. My advice is to approach everyone with a<br />

friendly curiosity and you’ll have a vacation like no other.<br />

Is there anywhere you’d like to sail as captain?<br />

Africa would be a dream. I sailed there last October on board Seven Seas Mariner. We<br />

cruised from Lisbon to Cape Town and it is my favourite ever itinerary. I just love animals<br />

and the wilderness.<br />

Where’s your next voyage?<br />

I’ll be sailing Alaska all summer on board Seven Seas Mariner.<br />

On a Regent Seven Seas Cruise you receive the ultra all-inclusive service with not just<br />

your food and drinks included but also unlimited shore excursions. Both Clare & Nathan<br />

at RB Collection have toured their ships so do speak to them on 01543 258631 or email vip@<br />

rbcollection.com.<br />

42 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER 43 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER


Q&A<br />

We meet Melanie Brown from the New Zealand Wine Cellar<br />

who shares her tips about her home country with us, and a<br />

little about wine too!<br />

Where in New Zealand do you come from?<br />

Originally Auckland, but was lucky to complete my<br />

apprenticeship in Christchurch, so have the pleasure of<br />

experiencing both the North and South Islands.<br />

What brought you to the UK?<br />

Discovery! I wanted to explore new cultures and<br />

experience the world, London was the perfect place to<br />

base myself to travel and explore this side of the world.<br />

Tell us a little about the New Zealand Cellar?<br />

We’ve got the largest selection of NZ wine in the<br />

Northern Hemisphere! Creating an online wine shop<br />

of the very best bottles by some of the lesser known<br />

producers of New Zealand was ambitious. I wanted to<br />

create a portfolio of wines that showcased the integrity<br />

of our amazing wine industry and the people within it.<br />

Soon after we launched our online offering we opened<br />

our first store in Brixton and it’s been astonishing to<br />

witness the amazing recognition of New Zealand wine<br />

in the UK.<br />

What makes New Zealand wine so special?<br />

I believe NZ wine has character and personality, due to<br />

our wonderful climate and special terroir our wines are<br />

vibrant and intriguing.<br />

Where is your favourite spot in New Zealand?<br />

This is a ridiculously hard question because New Zealand<br />

has almost every landscape the world has to offer in a<br />

country similar in size to the UK. However because<br />

everyone knows NZ for its majestic alpine, mountains,<br />

fiordland – I’d go for the opposite – think pristine white<br />

sand, amazing unspoiled beaches and some of the<br />

best sailing, diving and coast in Northland. There is an<br />

incredible property up there called Eagles Nest on the<br />

island of Russell. The view from any of its villas is hard<br />

to beat!<br />

What advice would you give a first-time visitor?<br />

For wine lovers, explore the Classic NZ Wine Trail taking<br />

you from Hawke’s Bay through to Marlborough via<br />

Wellington – Marlborough produces over 70% of New<br />

Zealand wine and is the home of Sauvignon Blanc with<br />

some incredible wineries – a great place to start. There<br />

are a few absolute gems nearby such as the boutique<br />

property; Bay of Many Coves in the Queen Charlotte<br />

Sounds, Marlborough is more than wine – the Sounds<br />

are amazing for sailing, watersports such as kayaking<br />

(look out for dolphins!). There are some great walks<br />

and cycles along the Queen Charlotte track. The new<br />

Marlborough Lodge just opened in November 2016 too.<br />

How about a 2nd or 3rd time visitor?<br />

New Zealand is incredibly diverse, although it’s a small<br />

country in size there’s so much to see. Central Otago is<br />

the most southerly wine growing region in the world,<br />

iconic for Pinot Noir. New Zealand’s adventure capital,<br />

Queenstown is the gateway to Otago and there are<br />

endless adventures to be had throughout this area and<br />

Fiordland. I would recommend organising an exclusive<br />

tasting and some ‘meet the winemaker’ experiences,<br />

and heading back after a full day out to somewhere like<br />

Eichardts Private Hotel in Queenstown, or Matakauri<br />

Lodge will top it off!<br />

Food & wine tourism is growing in popularity, why do<br />

you think that is and what can one expect on a visit to<br />

New Zealand for a themed trip such as this?<br />

I think people want to ‘experience’ rather than just<br />

‘visit’ these days, which is why New Zealand is such a<br />

bucket list destination in this regard. People want dining<br />

‘experiences’, it’s more than just the food, and they want<br />

to know that it’s local. To understand how exquisite New<br />

Zealand’s food & wine product is, you just have to look at<br />

our Luxury Lodges of New Zealand – all 28 properties are<br />

incredibly unique to its surroundings, so the settings are<br />

outstanding, and they’re world class when it comes to<br />

the farm to table ethos - local produce and with hosted<br />

experiences, complete with incredible wine cellars!<br />

And finally, if you could be anywhere in New Zealand<br />

right now, where would it be and why?<br />

Right now, with the madness of 2016, I could do with<br />

something that New Zealand does incredibly well – which<br />

is the ultimate retreat, away from it all. The epitome of<br />

this is Minaret Station, in the Mount Aspiring National<br />

Park – luxury chalets only accessible by helicopter in one<br />

of the most incredible spots mother nature could offer.<br />

20% OFF your first order<br />

We have arranged a special offer for all<br />

our readers to take advantage of. Simply<br />

use the code ‘RBCollection’ when you<br />

place your first order with The New<br />

Zealand Cellar and you will receive a<br />

20% reduction.<br />

Order online at<br />

www.thenewzealandcellar.co.uk.<br />

Terms & Conditons apply.


46 | RB COLLECTION | TRAVEL EXPLORER

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