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Songkran<br />

The word “Songkran” itself, as<br />

legend has it, comes from Sanskrit,<br />

mean<strong>in</strong>g transformation or the<br />

chang<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the zodiac sign. The<br />

festival always falls on April 13th through<br />

the 15th, co<strong>in</strong>cid<strong>in</strong>g with the ris<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Aries<br />

<strong>in</strong> the Zodiac chart. Songkran has been<br />

celebrated s<strong>in</strong>ce the Sukho<strong>thai</strong> k<strong>in</strong>gdom<br />

(1238-1438), and carried on throughout<br />

400 years <strong>of</strong> the Ayutthaya k<strong>in</strong>gdom<br />

(1351-1767), right up to the Rattanakos<strong>in</strong><br />

era or present day Thailand.<br />

Right<br />

Now the ‘big guns’<br />

come out <strong>in</strong> megawater<br />

battles.<br />

Below<br />

Water fights <strong>in</strong> the<br />

past used water<br />

from a nearby<br />

river or canal.<br />

The first day <strong>of</strong> Songkran, April 13, is<br />

called “Wan Maha Songkran,” when<br />

the sun is about to leave Pisces <strong>in</strong>to<br />

Aries. Usually, people clean up their<br />

homes and prepare for the new year<br />

merit-mak<strong>in</strong>g. On the second day<br />

<strong>of</strong> Songkran, or “Wan Nao,” the sun<br />

approaches Aries – and completely<br />

leaves Pisces beh<strong>in</strong>d. S<strong>in</strong>ce it’s<br />

neither <strong>in</strong> the old or new year, but<br />

somewhere <strong>in</strong> between, people use<br />

polite words and hope for the best <strong>in</strong><br />

the year to come. Many people go to<br />

the temple, with food and buckets <strong>of</strong><br />

sand for the religious ceremony. The<br />

New Year beg<strong>in</strong>s on the third day<br />

“Wan Tha Rerk Suk,” s<strong>in</strong>ce the sun<br />

has completely moved <strong>in</strong>to Aries.<br />

Traditionally, the Buddhist<br />

temple would become the centre<br />

stage for the Songkran celebration.<br />

The classic Thai poem “Khun<br />

Chang Khun Phaen” portrays a<br />

love triangle dur<strong>in</strong>g the Ayutthaya<br />

period, when the Songkran<br />

festival saw celebration for three<br />

days at a local temple. Local folks<br />

would gather at the Wat Pa Lelai<br />

monastery, as the poem goes, to<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer food to the monks. People<br />

build sand pagodas as a way <strong>of</strong><br />

mak<strong>in</strong>g merit, along with free<strong>in</strong>g<br />

birds from cages.<br />

It is here, at the temple dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the Songkran ceremony, that the<br />

dash<strong>in</strong>g but poor novice monk<br />

Phaen meets beautiful Wanthong.<br />

Enter another suitor, Chang<br />

(unattractive but rich) who gets<br />

<strong>in</strong>volved. They pour perfumed<br />

water <strong>in</strong>to the hands <strong>of</strong> the elders<br />

to show respect and seek their New<br />

Year bless<strong>in</strong>g. Then, young people<br />

throw buckets <strong>of</strong> water to each<br />

other for fun and to keep cool <strong>in</strong><br />

the April heat.<br />

As time went by, Songkran<br />

began to be a more visible and<br />

active event. In Chiang Mai <strong>in</strong><br />

1922, the city promoted Songkran<br />

to boost domestic tourism.<br />

From Bangkok, visitors took an<br />

overnight tra<strong>in</strong> to Chiang Mai for<br />

the holiday. The very first tourist<br />

group to Chiang Mai visited the<br />

city’s landmarks, such as Wat<br />

Phrathat Doi Suthep before bath<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the S<strong>in</strong>gh Buddha image and<br />

throw<strong>in</strong>g water amongst the locals.<br />

By the 1950s the city, led by<br />

its elite members such as Kraisri<br />

Nimmandhem<strong>in</strong>da, re<strong>in</strong>vented<br />

Songkran Festival for tourism. In<br />

order to showcase Lanna culture<br />

and capture the festive mood <strong>of</strong><br />

Songkran, Chiang Mai developed a<br />

procession <strong>of</strong> Buddha images and<br />

cultural floats. As the procession<br />

roamed around the old city <strong>of</strong><br />

Chiang Mai, local people put up<br />

altars <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> their homes as<br />

a way to pay their respects to the<br />

Buddha. The addition <strong>of</strong> the beauty<br />

contest “Miss Songkran” added<br />

more colour to the festival, so did a<br />

series <strong>of</strong> Lanna cultural shows.<br />

By the 1980s, Chiang Mai<br />

attracted the first foreign tourists<br />

for the Songkran holiday follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the successful domestic tourism<br />

campaign. Phra S<strong>in</strong>gh, Chiang Mai’s<br />

most sacred Buddha image, left the<br />

temple for the first time to jo<strong>in</strong> the<br />

Songkran procession. Many more<br />

temples created their own floats<br />

and jo<strong>in</strong>ed grander processions. A<br />

parade <strong>of</strong> beautiful women rid<strong>in</strong>g<br />

bicycles and hold<strong>in</strong>g parasols<br />

became “poster girls.” The Tourism<br />

Authority <strong>of</strong> Thailand (TAT) jo<strong>in</strong>ed<br />

<strong>in</strong> organis<strong>in</strong>g splendid cultural<br />

shows at Tha Phae Gate.<br />

From its beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> the<br />

temple grounds, Songkran moved<br />

Where to Get Wet<br />

<strong>in</strong> Thailand?<br />

Two <strong>of</strong> the most popular Songkran<br />

dest<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>in</strong> Thailand are Bangkok<br />

and Chiang Mai.<br />

Silom Road<br />

In the capital, the<br />

bus<strong>in</strong>ess district <strong>of</strong><br />

Silom hosts the largest<br />

and wildest crowd <strong>of</strong><br />

revellers <strong>in</strong> Bangkok.<br />

The water deluge<br />

stretches about 5 km.<br />

To stay dry stay on the<br />

BTS skywalk to observe<br />

the huge crowds <strong>in</strong><br />

their water splash<strong>in</strong>g<br />

fun and smatter<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong><br />

scented powder.<br />

Khao San Road<br />

It’s Songkran and more<br />

– mean<strong>in</strong>g th<strong>in</strong>gs can<br />

get wilder along the bars<br />

and restaurants <strong>of</strong><br />

Khao San Road <strong>in</strong><br />

Bangkok. Police checkpo<strong>in</strong>ts<br />

make sure<br />

<strong>in</strong>ebriated and overly<br />

enthusiastic participants<br />

don’t get out <strong>of</strong> hand.<br />

Chiang Mai<br />

The entire city<br />

celebrates Songkran.<br />

Around Tha Phae Gate<br />

(Chiang Mai Gate,)<br />

beware <strong>of</strong> water<br />

ambushes. The most<br />

popular places for water<br />

play take place around<br />

the moat, canals and<br />

around the P<strong>in</strong>g River.<br />

34<br />

35

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