Eatdrink #42 July/August 2013


The LOCAL food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford and Southwestern Ontario since 2007

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario


№ 42 • July/August



Small (& Guilty)


at Stratford’s

Montforte on


and Featuring

UpFront at the Market

Truly Upfront and Personable

Railway City Brewing Company

Crafting a Brighter Future in St. Thomas

The MillHouse

Tasty Expansion at Arva Flour Mills




for Savouring

the Season

ALSO: A Huron County Picnic Basket | Korean Restaurant & Manna Grill | COOKED by Michael Pollan


your culinary escape

It's summer and Stratford sizzles at its culinary best.

Our newest culinary quest, the Bacon & Ale Trail presents

exciting bacon inspirations alongside refreshing craft brews

at our pubs and food shops. Join a local foodie guide on

a stroll for Stratford's best on Flavours of Stratford

Culinary Walking Tours.

Delve into the art of cheese making, the magic of chocolate

and candy making, brewing herbal tea infusions and

sustainable foraging with our experts on Culinary


Don't forget to mark your calendar for "Ontario's Best

Culinary Tourism Experience" - Savour Stratford Perth

County Culinary Festival, presented by GE Café

Appliances, September 20-22.

Come to Stratford, we love to share our food.





Join us for these Upcoming Events…

• Festival of Arts and Crafts — July 5–7

• Kinsmen Summerfest — July 10–13

• Goderich Horticultural Society Garden Tour — July 13

• Memories Now and Then Car Show — July 20

• Celtic College and Celtic Roots Festival — August 5–11

• Goderich Triathlon — August 18

• West Coast Bluefest — August 29–31

For information please contact:

Tourism Goderich

1 800 280 7637

or visit our website at:



Restaurants | Chefs | Farmers & Artisans | Culinary Buzz | Recipes | Wine | Travel

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario

Think Global.

Read Local.



Managing Editor

Chris McDonell –

Cecilia Buy –

Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery –

Social Media Editor

Advertising Sales





Copy Editor



Bryan Lavery –

Chris McDonell –

Cathy Spencer-Quennville –

Michael Bell –

Chris McDonell

Bryan Lavery, Sue Sutherland Wood,

Jane Antoniak, Jill Ellis-Worthington, Dave

Hammond, Jennifer Gagel, Bill Wittur, Darin

Cook, David Hicks, Natalie Novak, Susan Orfald

Steve Grimes, Bruce Fyfe

Kym Wolfe

City Media

Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349

Mailing Address

Impressions Printing, St. Thomas

525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

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This image

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Monforte on


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Culinary ExpEriEnCEs




contents ISSUE № 42









58 56


food writer at large

8 A Taste for Life, and other matters



12 Celebrate Summer! And Savour the Season


16 UpFront & Personable: UpFront Restaurant & Bar


22 Small (& Guilty) Pleasures: Monforte on Wellington


26 Korean Hot Spots: Korean Restaurant & Manna Grill



20 The MillHouse, at Arva Flour Mill


farmers & artisans

28 Crafting a Brighter Future at Railway City Brewing


Road trips

30 Filling Your Huron County Picnic Basket



35 Exploring the Great Lake Bays Region of Michigan



38 The BUZZ


46 Choosing your Style and Finishes


Beer matters

50 Summer Rambling, Mondial de la Bière, and on ...



53 Choosing Wines for the Al Fresco Occasion



56 Cooked by Michael Pollan

Review by DARIN COOK


58 River Cottage Veg by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL


62 Which Basket Case are You?




№ 42 | July/August 2013 7























call or click for your FREE travel guide and map

also available at area advertisers and visitor centres



№ 42 | July/August 2013

food writer at large

A Taste For Life, and other matters ...

By Bryan Lavery

Iremember in the summer of 2003

when Sue Brooks, Fund Development

staffer for what was then the AIDS

Committee of London, called me

to pitch a fundraising initiative that was

creating a lot of excitement in Ottawa.

Brooks believed it would be successful in

London and wanted to run the idea past me

and another restaurant owner,

Colin Foster.

The concept was simple.

Brooks would promote the event

and help drive diners to the restaurants

on a Wednesday night.

We would donate 25 percent of

the before-tax tab to the agency, reach new

diners and have larger crowds than the usual

Wednesday night clientele. The proceeds

would be used to help those living with and

affected by HIV/AIDS in London with basic

needs such as food and transportation, and

to establish an emergency assistance fund.

Fast forward ten years to 2013: instead of

twelve restaurants participating in London,

there were twenty-eight in London, two in

Stratford and one in Exeter. The event now

has an established portfolio of significant

corporate and media sponsors who proudly

add their names and reputations to this

terrific event and important cause. Since its

Harvest Bucks

After a successful pilot, the Harvest Bucks

program is gaining momentum. This

initiative is aimed at improving access to

fresh produce for those in London who

need it most. The pilot project involved the

production, distribution, and redemption

of Harvest Bucks for fresh fruits and

vegetables, to increase access to and the

consumption of healthy, fresh produce.

Kim Leacy, a public health dietician

with the Middlesex-London Health Unit

(MLHU), was pleased with the results of

the pilot, which distributed Harvest Bucks

vouchers, redeemable at the Western Fair

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market (WFFAM),

inception A Taste For Life has raised over

$550,000 and the agency, now Regional

HIV/AIDS Connection (RHAC), serves

Perth, Huron, Oxford, Elgin, Lambton and

Middlesex counties. There is still no cure for

HIV/AIDS. The number of clients needing

support and services has also grown. It is

more important than ever for A Taste For

Life to both exist and flourish.

Over the past ten years,

Brooks and I have collaborated

on events and initiatives for

important causes, and I’m

pleased to say she has never

steered me wrong. She understands

how important restaurant owners

are in mobilizing a community. Brooks has

recently returned to RHAC, and this summer

we will be making the rounds in Stratford, to

speak with like-minded and kindred spirits

in the restaurant community, to help grow A

Taste For Life in Stratford. We have a shared

passion and heartfelt belief in the event, but

far more important, we believe that the needs

of the people served by RHAC are just as critical

today as they were a decade ago. A Taste

For Life in Stratford signals to people living

with HIV in Stratford that they are not alone;

there is a network of support for them when

they need it.

to London area residents identified by

community groups as needing more

produce in their diets. I was happy to be

the liaison between Christopher Green

and Trevor Fowler of the Child and Youth

Network, Kim Leacy and the WFFAM.

Based on similar initiatives, Leacy told

the MLHU board, ``the pilot was a resounding

success for vulnerable families, the

organizations they access, and the produce

vendors at the market.”

WFFAM produce vendors and Harvest

Bucks participants Sherri and Craig Turner

say the pilot program was a great success.

“We were personally able to wait on many

№ 42 | July/August 2013 9

of the customers that had Harvest Bucks

and found that they were happy to have

the opportunity to come to the market

and choose all the produce that they

wanted. Many said that they hadn’t

had some of the fruit and vegetables

they were choosing for a long

time and were so excited. They

came mostly with $20.00 worth

of vouchers and would have us

go along as they were choosing and tell

them how much they had left to spend. They

chose wisely, trying to make the vouchers

stretch as far as they could while also getting

their favourite things. It wasn’t just the kids

that had fun though; we waited on people

of all ages that had Harvest Bucks. They all

seemed to be amazed at how much they

got for their vouchers and also how much

The Case for Food Trucks

Modern food trucks serve a diverse variety

of healthy food options and cultural foods in

other cities. They are positioned to incubate

new businesses and become an alternativelaunching

pad for healthy, innovative food.

selection they had to choose from.”

The pilot project distributed $8,000 worth

of Harvest Buck vouchers to seven social

service organizations. From November

2012 to February 2013, $4,972 worth

of Harvest Bucks was redeemed.

The balance of the money will

be used to seed the next phase

of the program, anticipated to

start in July.

The mandate is to grow the project

by adding produce from vendors at the

indoor and outdoor farmers’ markets at

Covent Garden Market and Masonville

Market, and by identifying community

organizations interested in participating by

purchasing Harvest Bucks with their own

money or through sponsorships and grants.

There is, of course, a big difference between

the greasy-spoon chip wagon and the food

truck that serves healthy gourmet or ethnic

street foods.

I support food trucks because they



519.663.2002 |

@Downtown_London DowntownLondon


stimulate culinary innovation and

diversity, draw culinary tourists, provide

employment, engage community, and are

poised to become an important part of the

social and culinary fabric of the city.

Local proponents of food trucks have

concrete goals. Western Fair Farmers’

Market manager, Michelle Navackas, is

one of several proponents leading the

rallying cry. Navackas believes that one

of the principal goals is to introduce the

growing food truck industry to London in a

thoughtful and articulate way, by creating

guidelines and following best practices, so

the restaurant community can continue

to be successful and not feel threatened by

this addition to the local culinary scene.

Last month City Council proposed a pilot

project that would see operators compete

in a lottery for three assigned spots — two

along Dufferin Avenue in front of Victoria

Park, and one on Clarence Street, north

of Dufferin. The pilot was expected to

run from late June to the end of October.

Trucks, which would have to be licensed,

would be restricted fromopening during

Taste & Tour of Middlesex County

Recently, I was privileged to work on the

Taste and Tour of Middlesex with Sheila

Devost and Gavin Antill from Tourism

Middlesex. Under Devost`s guidance

Tourism Middlesex has been committed

to heightening awareness and developing

partnerships for tourism and agri-tourism

related businesses in Middlesex County. The

event was held at the Komoka Wellness and

Recreation Centre, space donated

by the Municipality of Middlesex

Centre. The tasting event was

supported by Foodland Ontario,

Local Food Connections:

Farmer/Food Buyer Networking

Event and Taste it Committee,

Libro Financial, County of Middlesex,

eatdrink magazine and ethicalgourmet.

Middlesex County is rich with emerging

culinary tourism and agri-tourism resources

and, due to the efforts of Devost and Anthill,

is beginning to benefit from a stronger

regional culinary identify. Devost and Antill

invited local farmers, producers and growers

to partner with local restaurants and chefs

to create farm-to-table tasting stations to

promote Middlesex products.

№ 42 | July/August 2013

festivals. The proposed pilot, which was

deemed short-sighted, was sent back for

revision. It looks like the program will be

expanded to include eight operators and

more designated spots around the city.

Food trucks have some advantages over

a traditional eat-in restaurant. The ability to

travel to where the customers are is a definite

plus. Generally speaking, food trucks have

lower overhead, compared to restaurants,

and require less staff. However, a food truck

is still a labour-intensive business that

requires a lot of work and attention.

Food trucks are subject to health and

safety regulations and inspections. In some

cities they are required to adhere to distance

restrictions, a buffer zone separating them

from existing restaurants. In reality, many

food trucks are providing a much healthier

alternative to fast food chains. The city

council committee recommended deferring

a decision on food trucks and specifically

instructed staff to draw up additional criteria

which will include “a more creative proposal

solicitation” and “menu consideration.”

The evening’s tasting participants

included Chef Barbara Toomer from Strathroy

P.C. Cooking School, Chef Danjiel

“Dacha” Markovic and Brian Blatnici from

Kantina, Bill Wittur of Noteworthy Wines,

The Carolinian Winery and Eatery, Golden

Leaf Winery, Elijah Richardson from Sunnivue

Farms, Amy’s Restaurant, Duke of

Sydenham, Michelle Navackas and Brittany

Coats of Western Fair Farmers’

and Artisans’ Market,

Appin Barbeque, Heeman’s,

Slegers Organic Greens, Fort

Rose Maple Syrup, Eversprings

Farms, Fire Roasted Coffee and

Habitual Chocolate. The conference

and tasting event, which was held

on May 28th and 29th 2013, showcased the

county as a whole and built awareness about

its agricultural and culinary identity. Like

many rural communities in Ontario, Middlesex

County has begun looking towards

both culinary and agri-tourism to diversify

its local economy.

Bryan Lavery is eatdrink’s Writer at Large and

Contributing Editor. He can be reached at

So Simple. Yet

№ 42 | July/August 2013



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Judges: Chef Gino from Porcino

and Missy from Olive-Me.



№ 42 | July/August 2013


Celebrate Summer!

Savour the Season with these eatdrink Recommendations

By the editors

It is so brief now. Oh for the long

languid summers of youth, when the

days and weeks seemed to stretch so

far in front of us that Labour Day and

the return to school seemed like the distant

future. No longer, and all the more reason to

enjoy every day of summer with gusto. And

though this issue of eatdrink is full of stories

to help do just that, we thought that it was

also appropriate to get really specific as well.

What follows are suggestions for each day

of the week, particularly for July and August.

While each establishment we’ve highlighted

will provide a wonderful experience

whenever they are open, we’ve chosen a

day when we think you’ll find it especially

rewarding. Sometimes that means a stop

when things are more quiet, sometimes the

best times are when the crowds are there ...

This is a subjective list, but we are certain

that there is plenty here for everyone.


From July 5–14, Corelicious celebrates

London’s Downtown restaurants with

3-course prix fixe menus. Reservations are

highly recommended, and with lunches

at $15 or $20 and dinners from $25 to $35,

it’s easy to see why. Not every place is open

Mondays, but lots are. See the outstanding

list at

The venerable David’s Bistro always offers

a 3-course prix fixe menu option, and is open

for dinner nightly, with lunch Wednesday

to Friday. Enjoy classic bistro fare, perfectly

executed, with genial owner David

Chapman, his wife Cindy and daughter

Natalie the ideal hosts.

In Stratford, join Mercer Hall’s Nosh

Monday program! From 5–8pm every

Monday evening, enjoy an exquisite

series of small plates. The Chef’s choice

menu offers a variety of flavours, served

family style. All-you-can-eat for $35 or try

the snack version for $15. Reservations


Enjoy Happy Hour at Pasto’s Grill from

Monday to Friday, 3–6pm. Appetizers are

half-price at the bar with the purchase of

an alcoholic beverage. And for gluten-free

folks, all of Pasto’s pastas and pizzas, and

a number of desserts, are now available



Londonlicious is back, from July 19–

August 11. “Get a babysitter and call a cab…

for tonight we live it up!” Get the very best

in lunch & dinner for $15, $20, $25, $30

or $35. Make reservations and to make

it an even better day, check out the new

companion event, Beautylicious! Running

concurrently, get a beauty package for $35,

$50, $75 & $100. Get your beauty on! www. &

Garlic’s of London wears its distinction

as purveyors of inspired seasonal menus

proudly, and is deservedly busy on

weekends. Make a mid-week reservation,

and may we suggest their local and awardwinning

artisan cheeses and house-cured

meats, for a light lunch, appetizer or even


Kantina continues to delight patrons with a

cutting edge Balkan menu that delights the

senses, and their summer menu of tapas-style

fare is a case in point. Tapas are available

every Tuesday and Wednesday, and we’d like

to be there every day.

Olive-Me & Co. is open for tastings 6 days

a week, but pick a “quiet” evening such as

Tuesday to plan a special event for you and

a group of friends. Explore over 50 different

olive oils and balsamic vinegars, and more!

See for details.

№ 42 | July/August 2013 13


Wednesday nights are great chance to try

new beers at Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium

and beat the weekend rush. Many of these

beers are sold out before Friday arrives.

And don’t underestimate the kitchen. Yum!

The Church Key Bistro-Pub is a great spot

on a Wednesday, whether you’re looking

for a craft beer or a pub meal with flair.

The courtyard patio is a gem, spacious yet

intimate, tucked along Richmond Street.

The King Edward Restaurant & Pub in

Ilderton is running a Wednesday night

Beer & Wing promo for the summer. Enjoy

a pound of regular wings and an Ontario

craft pint (20 oz) for $15 + tax, from 6pm to


Grand Bend is about more than the

weekend. Get to Smackwater Jack’s and

enjoy their weekly Wednesday Grand

Bend HUMP DAY Celebration! Live music

and great food are part of the action on

the water’s edge, with boats coming and

leaving all day.

Right on the Grand Bend beach, Sunset

House and Jalapeno’s also have a great

music night. On the Sunset House side, enjoy

casual fine dining and acoustic open mike

“sunset sessions” as part of Wine Down

Wednesday, while the Jalapeno’s Wild West

Wednesday goes electric with their nicely

spicy Mexican fare.


Thursday nights are great at The Springs

Restaurant just to watch the entertaining

Glenn Bennett play and have some drinks

on the patio. But as usual, there are a couple

of new items on this summer’s menu, so

a bite or two is also recommended. www.

While the Covent Garden Market is

open daily, the outdoor Covent Garden

Farmers’ Market runs Thursdays (8 am–2

pm) and Saturdays (8 am–1 pm). This is a

JULY 5 - 14





OR $20


25 $ 30 $ 35









№ 42 | July/August 2013

perfect time to get your seasonal, fresh,

and local food directly from the producers,

outside on the tented square.

Railway City Brewing Company

is open every day in

St. Thomas, but the staff is

frequently called to provide

their services at one festival

or another on weekends.

Call ahead to get a full tour,

as they would love to show

you around and demonstrate

the brewing process.

Samples are encouraged with

every tour!


Eddington’s of Exeter offers an authentic

local taste for lunch and dinner all

summer, but “fish on Friday” takes on a

special meaning here. Owner/Chef James

Eddington features fresh Lake Huron

Pickerel on Friday nights, to rave reviews.

Check out Eddington’s Events Calendar for

other theme nights.

Stratford gets busy in the summer, for all

the right reasons, but avoid some of the

crowd by doing the Flavours of Stratford

— Afternoon Culinary Walking Tour on

Friday. The guided tour visits a selection

of unique food destinations and you will

sample generously from locally produced

culinary delights. Arrive hungry! $36/per

person, 2:30–5:30 pm, leaving from the

Stratford Tourism Alliance building, 47

Downie St. Tickets available online:

Masonville Farmers’ Market opens

weekly in the northeast corner of the

Masonville Mall parking lot. Primarily

producer-based, this lively market is open

from 8am–2pm.


In addition to all of the regular goings-on,

Downtown London is hopping with a

series of summer festivals, with Victoria

Park a hub of activity almost every

weekend. Check www.downtownlondon.

ca for details.

Goderich is a hopping town all summer,

and most Saturdays are filled with unique

festivals and cultural activities. There has

been a massive amount of new

building since the tornado

struck two summers ago,

but the beach and sunsets

are exactly as beautiful as



7 Days

a Week!

they always were.

The folks in Sarnia-

Lambton are a little

spoiled by being able

to quickly nip down to

the water at any time,

but Saturdays are still

special. For activities on the

water, Sarnia-Lambton takes full

advantage of its gorgeous beaches all

summer. Check out their vacation planner

at for

highlights for each day of the week.

In addition to the regular lunch menu,

Willie’s Café is now offering a selection

of Brunch menu items on Saturday, from

11:30am–3pm. “Walk over to Willie’s”

and enjoy healthy comfort cuisine in the

friendly confines of a cottage in the city.

Enjoy the spacious patio at Crossings Grill

& Pub, with local artists performing on stage

every Saturday night, starting at 8pm. There

are also 32 different draughts on tap. But pace

yourself! Crossings is also open the other days

of the week.

While select vendors are open on Thursdays,

Saturdays are big days at the Western Fair

Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market. There’s

plenty of free parking but the friendly

crowd does get large, as the mix of vendors

provides an interesting and eclectic range

of treats and staples for discriminating

shoppers. Open 8am–3pm Saturdays.


The Raja offers a special Buffet on

Sundays, for lunch and dinner (Lunch:

12–3pm; Dinner: 5–9pm). There are

lots of choices for vegetarian and nonvegetarians,

all presented in Royal Copper

pots and dishes.

№ 42 | July/August 2013 15

The Idlewyld Inn has two wonderful

outdoor dining settings — the Front

Verandah and the Garden Courtyard — in

which to enjoy their delightful Sunday

Brunch. Chef Jeff Fortner has taken over

the Avenue Dining kitchen, and together

with Sous Chef Ashton Gillespie, they

continue the tradition of using seasonal,

local ingredients to prepare simple, yet

elegant cuisine.

Visit the Downie Street Bakehouse in

the Market Square behind City Hall every

Sunday (from 10–2) for the Stratford Sunday

Slow Food Market. The from-scratch, handshaped

artisanal and specialty breads

contain honest ingredients and great

flavour. And they also happen to be good

for you!

The River Room recently launched a

new summer menu, and their Sunday

Brunch remains a popular option. Think

NYC sophistication with a stellar view

of the Forks of The Thames river. www.

The award-winning Michael’s On The

Thames maintains that “Any Night Is A

Great Night For Something Special,” and

their Tableside Cooking is truly “Food With

Flair.” Open weekdays for lunch and daily

for dinner.

Blackfriars continues to offer their

outstanding Sunday Brunch, but make your

reservations early. This culinary landmark

also offers consistently creative upbeat

lunchs and intimate dinners, with ample

free parking and careful attention to dietary


Savour an upscale market experience at

Ogilvie’s Food & Artisan Market. Open

Saturdays 8 am–5 pm and Sundays 9 am–3

pm, there’s something for everyone! You will

find a complement of year-round indoor

vendors and 60 more vendors at the seasonal

outdoor market. 1331 Hyde Park Road, south of


Last but not least, follow eatdrinkmag on

Twitter and Facebook to make the most of

your precious summer. Enjoy!


№ 42 | July/August 2013


UpFront & Personable

At UpFront Restaurant & Bar in London


Photography by Terri Low

Laughs were shared on the

sunny patio at UpFront

at the Market while

owners Jody and Josh Stall

reminisced over past and present

splendours. “It was the first time

Jody cooked me dinner. I tried to

carve her over-roasted duck, but

I just kept hitting bone. Then I

realized she roasted it upside down!”

The couple has come a long

way since the infamous “upsidedown-duck”

date that sparked

both their personal relationship

and entrepreneurial careers. The

endearing culinary disaster that set

the stage for this duo over 20 years ago is a

far cry from the dozens of ducks Jody now

roasts on a weekly basis for the Chinese

Barbeque Duck Clubhouse Sandwich. This

recent favourite also features their housecured

and smoked bacon, snug between

slices of house-made cranberry pecan

bread. Front of house manager, and chef by

trade, John Gillan swears by the Roasted

The spacious and comfortable sun-drenched patio wraps the

southwest corner of the Covent Garden Market, enhanced by

stylish awnings and umbrellas

Porchetta Sandwich, another highlight of

UpFront’s current menu. Described by Josh

as a “hearty man sandwich,” the sandwich

begins with a herb-dressed pork loin

wrapped in pork belly. It is then roasted,

sliced, and seared. Nothing is wasted as the

pan drippings are transformed into a pan

jus which tops the fresh brioche bearing

the seared pork slices. The owners pride

themselves on their creativity

and emphasis on fresh,

handmade menu items.

The original UpFront Café,

which opened in 2005 in nearby

Strathroy, was a quaint 50-seat

space in an 1867 bank building.

The Stalls were determined to

A warm modern interior offers a welcoming number of seating

options, perfect for an intimate dinner or a large gathering

№ 42 | July/August 2013


A Downtown London Culinary Landmark

at the Covent Garden Market since 1940

The Chinese Barbeque Duck Clubhouse Sandwich

Roasted Porchetta Sandwich: Herb-dressed pork loin

wrapped in pork belly, roasted, sliced and seared, served on

a fresh brioche

Bangkok Salad: Mild white fish, pan-seared with a mediumspiced

yellow Thai curry, topped with lightly toasted

coconut, pineapple, sweet potato, cashews and mango,

dressed in a strawberry, mint and passion fruit vinaigrette

carry their from-scratch philosophy over to

their new 220-seat location — a daunting

objective. The staff utilizes the basement

prep kitchen located in the new space. This

convenient setup has reduced the anticipated

challenges that came with quadrupling their

capacity. The space, in combination with a

loyal and competent kitchen staff, allows for

all sauces, proteins, breads, and desserts to

be prepared in house. Having longtime brigade

members such as Josh’s right-hand-man

Alex and partner Vickie (joked to be the new

Anna Turkewicz’s

delicatessen and

catering have a

reputation for

personal service and

offering a large

selection of European

specialties, including

quality products from

Germany, Holland,

Poland & Switzerland

Ensure your event is a success!

For the best food and venues, call

Kleiber’s for a free catering estimate.

Civic Garden’s Approved Caterer

London’s German Canadian Club

and Polish Canadian Club Caterer

Covent Garden Market



№ 42 | July/August 2013

Leo’s Santa Fe

Chicken Salad:

avocado, black

beans, corn, dates,

and feta with

a peanut lime

dressing, topped

with corn tortilla

strips and lightly

spiced Cajun


Josh and Jody),

the owners can

breathe easy

as Alex runs

the line and

Vickie bakes

the breads and

dessert items.

Vickie is famous for her Caramel Pecan Cinnamon

Buns and is now churning ice cream

alongside Jody, with plans for unique flavours

like Lemon Meringue Pie.

There is an emphasis on variety at

UpFront, which is apparent when perusing

their new brunch menu (available Saturdays

and Sundays from 11am–3pm). The menu

offers three variations on the traditional

Eggs Benedict, one of which includes grilled

black tiger shrimp, fresh avocado salsa,

and their house-smoked bacon. Other

brunch items include Hot Shot Prime Rib

Hash and Vickie’s French Toast, made with

her orange-infused brioche and topped

with a tantalizing whipped maple orange

marmalade mascarpone cream.

The restaurant also features international

dinner menus called ‘Destination Dinners’,

comprised of a three course meal with

choice of starter, entrée, and dessert. For

June they chose A Taste of Spain, including

a starter called the Matador Meatballs —

veal and beef meatballs with creamy

gorgonzola cheese on a bed of piquant

tomato sauce — and entrées including

a seafood, chorizo, and pepper packed

Paella. They offer daily specials as

well, in order to tickle their creativity

bone and to keep the variety flowing.

Josh explains, “We have specials

because we want to make something

special, not just to move a product.”

The emphasis on variation carries

over into their beverage menu, but in

choice more than price range: the restaurant

offers a flat rate on all glasses

of wine and drafts, making each drink

accessible to all clientele. This is important

to them, as they carry a beverage to complement

each dish in particular, say the Stalls.

“We value the customer’s experience over our

own profit.” Occupying a space previously

famous for its diversity on the rail, the Stalls

not only maintained the wide variety, they

actually added a tap. They want to cater to

everyone, offering both local microbrews as

well as large beer manufacturers. Josh puts it

well, “If you can’t find a beer on our menu you

like then you don’t like beer!”

To add to their already ambitious food

and beverage undertaking, the restaurant

has committed to showcasing local

independent musicians all summer during

their Steam Whistle Patio Party Series.

London’s Sweet Leaf Garret will perform

live every Sunday from 8 to 11pm. Another

example of their commitment to engage

with the community is their Starter Coupon

Booklet. This offers local organizations the

opportunity to purchase a coupon booklet

for fundraising. Vouchers for discounted

appetizers allow organizations to earn

twice the cost of the booklet and diners to

enjoy $8.00 starters. UpFront is also a proud

sponsor of our London Knights, Original

Kids Theatre Company, and the London

Lesbian Film Festival.

As Jody says, “Our food is addictive. We

just want London to try it and they will be


UpFront at the Market

130 King St, London


open daily 11am–close

brunch saturdays & sundays 11am–3pm

Jody and Josh Stall

Photo by Monique Wiendels

№ 42 | July/August 2013 19

Farmers’ Market

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It’s our Farmers guarantee TO YOU!

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Farmers’ Market Hours:

Thursdays: 8am ~ 2pm

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with validation, no purchase required



№ 42 | July/August 2013

culinary retail

What’s Old Is New Again

The MillHouse, at Arva Flour Mill, in Arva

By Natalie NovaK

Quick — where do you think of to buy

natural and organic meat, cheese,

coffees and teas, specialty condiments

and other culinary goodies?

If the folks at Arva Flour Mill have their way,

The MillHouse will soon be near the top of

your list, and health-conscious food shoppers

will beat a path to the new Mill District being

created at the north edge of London.

The Mill Store has long been a bakers’

paradise, with its offerings of locally grown

flours and milled flours, grains and other

related ingredients. The recently opened

MillHouse will hold the same appeal to

people looking for natural, organic, and

predominantly locally sourced foods for

cooking and barbecuing, all in one place.

The MillHouse, located in the recently

renovated livery stable, is the first building

to be converted to retail use, in phase one of

the new Mill District plan. The shop carries

a good selection of natural meats and fish:

a range of certified organic meat from

Field Gate Organics; water buffalo sausage,

burgers, roasts and steaks from Tenderbuff

near Stratford; fish from Hooked Inc. in

Toronto, which are caught fresh, cleaned,

portioned and blast frozen immediately.

Hooked Inc. skips the distributor,

purchasing fish directly and carrying only

Mike Matthews runs the Arva Flour Mill in much the

same way it has operated for almost 200 years.

those from clean waters and healthy stocks.

The MillHouse is owned by Bill and Brenda

Fellner. Brenda manages the store on a daily

basis, but during start up you would have

more likely found Christie Massé behind the

counter. Massé, a graduate of the Stratford

Chefs School, is a local chef and former owner

of Crust Catering & Bakery who teaches in the

culinary arts program at Fanshawe College.

She worked with the Fellners to bring in a

number of regional labels that local foodies

will be familiar with: Field Gate Organics

The Garlic Box, Nature’s Wonder Wheatgrass

Juice, Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, Rootham

Gourmet Preserves, In A Jam and Heritage

Line Herbs, to name a few. For goods that

could not be sourced locally, Massé sought

out Canadian suppliers, going as far afield as

British Columbia for flavoured sea salts from

Vancouver Island Salt Company.

“We carry some products that you’ll

find at the Covent Garden and Western

Fair Farmers’ Markets, or specialty shops

like Jill’s Table” said Massé, pointing out

the Savvy Chef mustard, Fire Roasted and

Hasbeans coffees, Kosuma energy bars and

Pristine Olive oils. “For some people it will

be more convenient to come here, and we’re

open seven days a week.” During July and

August the store will be closed on Mondays,

returning to regular hours in the fall.

The MillHouse also carries handmade

№ 42 | July/August 2013 21

soaps and lotions, natural bug sprays, and similar

goods by local artisans, including handcrafted

items made from recycled materials by a motherdaughter

team from Kintore.

In all, the MillHouse deals directly with 24

different suppliers, an important distinction for

shoppers who look closely at ingredients and

want to know where their food comes from.

The original homestead is the future

site of the Mill District gastro pub

The MillHouse, located in the mill’s old livery stable,

opened in February 2013. MillHouse manager

Christie Massé (above & below) sourced regional

and Canadian goods, all natural or organic. Assorted

products are shown at the bottom of the page.

The MillHouse opened in February, and Fellner

is pleased with the response to date. He has been

working with Mike Matthews who, with his

siblings Steve and Julaine, owns the flour mill and

the six acres of land that it sits on. Their goal is to

transform the property to a foodie destination,

and The MillHouse is first step in that plan. Next,

Matthews and Fellner plan to convert the original

homestead, which sits just over the footbridge by

the mill stream, to a gastropub with a patio where

diners can enjoy the scenic setting.

The homestead building is large enough to also

house a bakery, and possibly a butcher, cheese

shop or other complimentary food business.

All will be independently owned and operated,

and Fellner says there is already a lot of interest,

particularly in the restaurant.

The MillHouse

2042 Elgin Street, Arva


NATALIE NOVAK is a freelance writer based in London.


№ 42 | July/August 2013


Small (& Guilty) Pleasures

at Monforte on Wellington, in Stratford


Photography by NORA CAMPS

Another renaissance of sorts is now

afoot just off the town square, in

the premises formerly occupied

by the Evergreen Terrace on

Wellington Street in Stratford. Monforte on

Wellington is a casual seasonally-inspired

osteria featuring an ever-changing selection

of artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, pastas,

salads, soups, preserves, pickles and other

signature specialties, prepared by Chef Phil

Philips and Monforte’s culinary team.

Chef Philips worked in the kitchen

at Bijou and has trained under Jamie

Kennedy. The kitchen pushes the farm-tofork

boundaries further than anything we

have experienced in Stratford, developing

a synergy between the local terroir and the

diner, inspired no doubt by the resolute

cheesemaker, Ruth Klahsen, whose deeprooted

affection for all things sustainable,

local and artisanal seems to continue to

both fortify and nourish her creative drive

and innovative


Osteria is the

Italian term

for the most

casual and


of restaurant


Montforte Dairy Head

Traditionally an Cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen

osteria provided

embraces architect Aziza

lodging and

Chaouni, the designer of

served simple

Montforte On Wellington

and inexpensive

food and wine. In Italy, I first became

enamored with this style of restaurant

travelling through the regions of Emilia

Romagna, Molise, Umbria and Abruzzi.

The osterias I gravitated towards in Italy

were mainly located in the countryside and

were informal gathering places, often with

certain common traits: short menus, local

№ 42 | July/August 2013

and seasonal house-made specialties, and

sometimes but not always, meals served at

communal tables.

Designed by Aziza Chaouni and crafted

by architectural students from the University

of Toronto, the furniture at Monforte on

Wellington is made from reclaimed wood

and donated pallets, contributing to a

hand-crafted décor of mostly recycled and

repurposed materials. The brightly coloured

upholstered benches add a touch of pizazz

and accentuate the whitewashed walls. The

ceilings are high with interesting spiderlike

fixtures with bare bulbs and a large

picture window faces the street. The kitchen

is open to the dining room and there is a

passageway beside the kitchen leading to a

35-seat courtyard with umbrellaed tables for

al fresco dining.

The 35-seat main dining room has a

sophisticated straightforward charm with

a “We’ve got to get ourselves back to the

garden” vibe. There are two or three main

chalkboard features each day, prepared

from what is seasonal, local, foraged and

fermented. Many of the products are made

in-house or sourced from community

farms and artisans. On one visit we sat on

the terrace and the kitchen staff delivered a

pair of cheese and charcuterie boards. They

provided us with a friendly in-depth tutorial

about the provenance of each ingredient.

The rich and flavourful charcuterie

included a mound of perfect fatty cubed

pancetta, a succulent slab of savoury

headcheese (which brought back memories

of my grandmother’s kitchen), and farmer

David E. M. Martin’s pancetta served

with house-made crackers and tiny

pots of honey, mustard and red pepper

jelly. A selection of luscious, earthy and

creamy cheese on offer included Piacere

— Monforte’s own take on the classic

French cheese Fleur du Maquis and a

creamy Black Sheep rolled in vegetable

ash. True Blue, made with Sunnivue Farm’s

water buffalo milk, was firm, salty and

herbaceous. Klahsen’s philosophy is to

“use only seasonal milk from humanely

treated animals” for her cheese. The cheese

selection varies depending on availability.

I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich with

both fresh cheese curd and Paridiso. A

variation on the classic Italian Taleggio, this

semi-soft, washed rind cheese has a piquant

bite. Wild leeks, sometimes called ramps,

The seasonal menu always includes two or three

chalkboard features, such as a seared trout with beluga

lentils, wild leek scapes, and radish pods (third photo

from the top). The cheese and charcuterie boards are

popular choices, augmented with hand-crafted crackers

and tiny pots of honey, mustards and jellies.

made a delicious and pungent pesto that was

the perfect accompaniment to the sandwich.

Dandelion greens with rhubarb vinaigrette,

Soiled Reputation organic greens with wild

leek vinaigrette and a silky asparagus soup

have also vied for my attention.

We loved the rich, buttery water buffalo

ice cream that can be ordered with either a


demi-tasse of chocolate sauce

or espresso, served in artfully

mismatched bowls with melt-in-yourmouth

chocolate chip cookies.

The restaurant is BYOW with a corkage

fee of $15.00. If you order a glass of VQA

wine they might bring you a full bottle

and charge you for what you drink. The

wine selection is limited and there is

№ 42 | July/August 2013



more than



“This kind of brings things full circle for us.” — RK

a good selection of craft beers. They

retain a strong local focus on drinks to

keep them consistent with the kitchen’s

offerings. We loved the “Fizzy Water”

which was 50 cents a glass.

There is an area at the front entrance

that retails Monforte cheeses, Bauman

honey, preserves and other interesting

jarred goods-to-go. “This kind of brings

things full circle for us,” says Klahsen

referring to the restaurant. “For example,

when we make cheese we have leftover

whey, which we feed to pigs, which can

become charcuterie. And the same

farmer who raises the pigs grows wheat,

which we can make into crackers.”

The osteria opened in Stratford in

early April. In June, Monforte opened its

first stand-alone store in Toronto, in Liberty

Village. If you like ethical farm-totable

dining that won’t break the bank,

Monforte on Wellington, although in its

fledgling days, is well positioned to be a

hands-down frontrunner in Stratford’s

culinary scene.

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

Monforte on Wellington

80 Wellington Street, Stratford


open for lunch & dinner daily, 9–9;

open until 11 pm friday & saturday






№ 42 | July/August 2013

THURS 10-4 FRI 9-7 SAT 8-2

Ontario focus. European Style.


Chef-inspired artisanal

food and drink featuring

local seasonal cuisine,

Ontario-focused wines &

house-infused cocktails.



A series of small plates

served family-style.

All-You-Can-Eat —$35

Snack Version—$15

5–8pm, Reservations



104 Ontario Street, Stratford | 519.271.92 02 |

Get up-to-date info on our series of exciting events!


№ 42 | July/August 2013


From Kimchee to “Soup to Get Sober”

Korean Restaurant and Manna Grill, in London

By bryan lavery

The flavours and textures of Korean

food are exhilarating. In London,

Manna Grill has been a local

Korean hot-spot in its present

incarnation for over a decade. The owner

recently told me cheerfully, “I am good for

another ten.” She had been sitting behind

us partaking in a celebratory meal and

was now smiling, modelling and tapping

her toes in pair of silver sparkly sandals

that she had just “borrowed” from a guest

celebrating her birthday when I inquired

about the availability of a take-out menu.

(I often like to have these on hand as a

reference). We love the casual service,

friendly repartee and are devotees of the

fiery kimchee, kalbi (barbequed beef short

ribs) and bulgolgi at Manna Grill.

Now there is a newer kid on the block

serving delicious versions of bimim bap

(bap meaning rice) and bulgogi. Lee Chul

Wha’s Korean Restaurant at Adelaide

Street and Hamilton Road seems to have

more upscale aspirations and has garnered

great word-of-mouth in its first year.

This past spring, a gentleman who I met

while having lunch at the River Room told

me he had just moved to London from

Toronto. He asked for a recommendation for

good Korean food. I suggested the Korean

Restaurant. He later e-mailed me to say that

he and his son had ordered “the traditional

bulgolgi and kalbi which came with brown

rice and all the side

dishes … kimchee etc. It is the best

Korean food I’ve had since my adventures in

Korea. Cost was very reasonable. The other

patrons were all Korean so that speaks to

the quality of the food and service. “Gam

sa hamida” (thank you, in Korean) for your

heads up on this restaurant.”

I have been told that the most authentic

expression of Asian cuisine is often withheld

from the inexperienced non-Asian palate.

I have visited the Korean Restaurant

many times and this does not appear to

be the case. The Korean Restaurant is very

welcoming and we have had many pleasant

experiences, and the service for the most

part is deferential and accommodating.

Don’t expect your plates to be cleared

away after a meal, as this does not appear

to be part of the custom. This has provoked

a long uncomfortable silence on more than

one occasion. On other occasions we have

had fresh fruit served to us after dinner —

last summer it was delicious fresh slices of

sweet, refreshing, in-season watermelon.

Utensils for a typical Korean place

setting consist of a pair of chopsticks and a

long- handled spoon. Chopsticks are used

to pick up meat, noodles and side dishes.

Spoons are meant to eat undemanding

foods and rice, and to sip broths and soups.

At the Korean Restaurant, meals are

accompanied with banchan, a half a dozen or

№ 42 | July/August 2013 27

so complimentary plates of traditional “side

dishes” to graze on before the meal or more

traditionally to use as condiments. Banchan

are placed in the middle of the table to be

shared communally. Typically, banchan are

served in small portions (think tapas), and at

the Korean Restaurant they are replenished

during the meal at no extra charge.

Kimchee, a mainstay of banchan, is the

fiery fermented side dish (or condiment)

prepared from a variety of vegetables,

including cabbage, radish, and cucumber,

and heated by chillies, ginger and other

aromatic seasonings. There are hundreds

of types of kimchee; taste and varieties vary

by region and seasonality. Kimchee is an

iconic staple in the Korean repertoire and it

has helped define the county’s culinary and

cultural identity. As Michael Pollan states

in his latest treatise, Cooked [Ed: reviewed

in this issue of eatdrink]: “If a food is going

to help forge cultural identity, it must be an

acquired taste, not a universal one.”

Both the cabbage and the radish

kimchee at the Korean Restaurant are

crunchy (in lesser establishments I have

often found the kimchee to be soggy storebought

versions), and I could taste the

chillies, garlic and ginger.

Besides the kimchee being served as part

of the banchan, I have sampled a version of

chap chae (a classic sweet-potato-noodle

salad), seasoned spinach, pickled radishes,

cucumbers, tofu, fish cake and vegetable

pan-fried dumplings. The perfect pork

dumplings are in the same league as the

house-made pork dumplings — which are

also browned to pan-fried perfection — at

Spring Restaurant, which serves Tianjinand

Szechwan-inspired Chinese food (at

Dundas Street near English Street).

A classic and popular Korean dish is

bimbim bap. This is a traditional dinner-in-abowl,

with freshly- cooked crispy rice in the

bottom of the bowl, topped with individual

stacks of julienned onion, carrots, zucchini,

and mung bean sprouts. A pan-fried

sunny-side up egg is served on top and is

accompanied by shredded beef. (I have also

had the egg served raw, which cooks when it

is mixed in with the ingredients in a blazing

hot stone bowl.) Bimbim pap is typically

served with a sweet and sour chilli paste

called ch’o koch’ ujang and arrives at the table

while the hot stone bowl is still sizzling. With

most meals bowls of cooked rice and guk

(soup) are served individually.

Manna Grill, which is very casual, has

a distinct Japanese influence on its menu.

The Korean Restaurant, which is more

upscale than Manna Grill, has brought in

a new chef and expanded their traditional

menu to include a variety of Chinese

dishes. Some newer dishes on the menu

have sauces that were sweeter and thicker

than expected and it is my hope that

this is not a reaction to unsophisticated

Caucasian palates. Although I have not

tried it myself, I have heard about the

hangover soup (haejangguk, aka “soup

to get sober,” first appeared in a manual

published in the late Goryeo Dynasty, 918–

1392). This version (served with pollock), I

am told, is a classic interpretation.

Korean Restaurant

170 Adelaide Street North, London


open daily 11 am to 10 pm

except closed wednesdays

Manna Grill

276 Wharncliffe Road North, London


open daily 11 am to 9:30 pm

Bryan Lavery is eatdrink’s Writer at Large and

Contributing Editor. He can be reached at


№ 42 | July/August 2013

farmers & artisans

Crafting a Brighter Future

Railway City Brewing Company, in St. Thomas


In one of the area’s towns hardest hit

by the economic downturn, a little

good news goes a long way. Plant

closings and downsizing is usually the

business news of the day, but here’s a tale of

a small local company that is expanding its

operations and hiring more staff.

Railway City Brewing Company in St.

Thomas has grown substantially since

its inception five years ago. It was born

as a partnership between Paul Corriveau

and Al Goulding who began brewing two

types of beer in a small 2,500 square-foot

space. There are now four partners, six

regularly brewed beers (along with several

seasonally brewed), and by the time this is

published it will all be housed in a 13,000

square-foot renovated space on Edward

Street, “just a couple of blocks from where

Jumbo was killed,” says Corriveau. The

latter point is particularly poignant, as

Railway’s most popular brew is called Dead

Elephant in honour of the felled beast.

Initially Iron Spike Blonde and Copper

were introduced, soon joined by Dead

Elephant, Iron Spike Amber, Honey Elixir

Paul Corriveau, Matt Janes and Railway City’s brewer Zach Trynda

and Canada

Southern Draft.

Seasonal offerings

include a winter

stout and a

summer wheat

beer. Honey

Elixir is partially

made from

honey from


Manor’s hives.

According to Brenda Brandt,

corporate sales manager, the Manor’s

Honey Stung Ale (their name for Honey

Elixir) was previously produced by another

craft brewer with inconsistent results,

“but since we switched to Railway it’s been

consistent and delicious. It’s a real draw for

our café and has been really well received.”

“We’ve grown faster than anticipated

and [the current space] has limitations

that we didn’t foresee,” explains Corriveau.

Logistical issues necessitated moving to

a larger space and adding five positions

to the current 14 staffers. Happily, the

two acres surrounding

the renovated industrial

building will allow Railway

to have an open-air patio

out front and event space

in the rear for barbecues

and car shows benefitting


As part of the company’s

evolution, new investors

were taken on and are now

active in its management:

Matt Janes oversees

operations and company

finances; Al Goulding is

in charge of retail and

packaging, and John Peart

is company president.

Cans ready for filling at the new facility

Corriveau, who handles

marketing and sales for

the company, attributes

consumer enthusiasm in

spurring this huge growth.

“Interest in craft beer has

skyrocketed. Consumers

want something different,

a unique taste and different

styles. People are looking for

something that’s not bland

or mainstream, something

that’s new and fresh made

from local ingredients.”

Using local ingredients,

such as hops grown in Elgin

County, is one of Railway’s

secrets to success. Seasonal

produce spurs new brews, like

the Blueberry-Ginseng that was

produced a few summers ago.

Ginseng is a tobacco replacement

crop, so Corriveau expects it to

appear in more recipes.

But growing the number of

offerings isn’t the end game;

ensuring their products are worthy

of their fan base is. “We want to

produce award-winning beers

and attract people to the facility to

promote tourism in this area. Craft 29

beer is like wine in that way. People want

to see, taste and smell.”

So far this mission has been successful,

as Railway has consistently picked up

multiple medals at the Speaker’s Craft Beer

Challenge (Ontario Legislative Assembly)

and the Ontario Brewing Awards.

Craft beer aficionados can enjoy

Railway products in 100 restaurants in

Ontario, from Sarnia to Ottawa, (20 are

within the eatdrink readership area), and

pick them up in 200 LCBO stores. There is even one store

in Saskatchewan that has them shipped in. You can

also taste Railway beers at several events this summer,

including The Ontario Renaissance Festival, London

Beer and BBQ Show and the Great Lakes International

Air Show. Or you can tour the plant. It is open seven days

a week, but Corriveau advises that you call ahead to

ensure enough staff are on hand to help you.

Railway is beginning to offer more of their suds in

cans for easy transport to picnics, cottages and boats.

Dead Elephant and Iron Spike Blonde are

already available in cans, soon to be joined

by Canada Southern Draft. The canning

process was previously outsourced but will

now be done onsite.

So it’s a good news day

all around: craft beers

are on the rise; a local

company is growing and

there are more places

to enjoy their great


Railway City Brewing Co.

130 Edward St., St.Thomas


retail store hours

mon–wed: 10 am–8 pm

thurs & fri: 10 am–10 pm

saturday: 10 am–8 pm

sunday: 11 am–6 pm


is a freelance writer and chief

communicator for Write.On Communication

Services International.


№ 42 | July/August 2013

road trips

A Locavore Road Trip

Filling Your Huron County Picnic Basket


Who says going to the lake has to

be about going to the beach?

Our favourite road trip to Lake

Huron involves an empty picnic

basket, a cooler, a thermos, some books

and a blanket. Give yourself a few hours, a

tank of gas and follow our local foodie route.

The result? A perfect locavore picnic in our

favourite backyard — Huron County!

Head north out of London on Highway 4

through Lucan

and into Exeter.

Here you can

pick up a readymade


pizza from Chef

James Eddington,


operator of Eddington’s restaurant. No,

he’s not in the take-out pizza business! But

he makes an outstanding pizza featuring

unique ingredients like potato slices and

caramelized onions. Everyone loves Thursday

night pizza nights at Eddington’s. And

cold pizza can be pretty great too!

In our basket, chocolate is also a food

group. Stock up at

Sugar and Spice on

Main Street in Exeter.

You can also find their

goodies at the new

Charles Street Market

in Bayfield. Cooler

required! Keep heading

north to Hensall where

we have two favourite

stops. At The Garlic Box,

look for Peach Salsa

made with fresh Ontario garlic. The tapenade

is also delicious. They sell right out of their

corporate office on Highway 4, just north of

Hensall. If it’s not office hours you can pick

up their products at Metzger Meats (our

other favourite in Hensall) on Brock Street off

Highway 83 (the Zurich-

Hensall line). Follow the

signs to Metzger’s. Turn

onto Brock Street at the

huge blue building, Ice

Cultures, where you can

buy bags of ice for your

cooler or take a tour of

their ice experience. At

Metzger’s pick up some

house-cured salami: we love the traditional

Hensall salami but for a zestier taste grab the

Jalapeno salami and some hot pepperettes.

Gerhard calls them pepperonis so that the

corporate giants don’t sue him. With eleven

smokehouses on the property, this is a meat

lover’s dream.

Moving towards the lake, a quick stop

at Jerry Rader’s

shop in Zurich

nets us some of

his famous butter

tarts. These may

not make it to the

basket! You can

also get a cup of

coffee to wash them down.

As we crest the highway and can see the

lake, we start thinking about fish. Pull into

the beautiful Hessenland Country Inn on

Highway 21 at St. Joseph, and hopefully

Chef Frank Ihrig can fill your thermos with

his signature Lakefood

Chowder made from the

Lake Huron catch of the

day. This is also a great

spot for a cold beer and a

quick stretch of your legs as

you stroll the five acres of

manicured lawns.

From St. Joe’s it’s on to

Bayfield, where we zip

№ 42 | July/August 2013

into the plaza next to

Foodland on Highway

21. Here we grab two

vital items: smoked fish

from Out of the Blue,

and a bottle of Pelee

Island Secco from the

Bayfield liquor store.

They do sell it chilled.




about Secco, besides its

great taste and active

bubbles? You don’t need

a corkscrew to pop this

cork! In Bayfield you can

take a walk along Main

Street and pick up:

• Gunn’s Hill Cheese

(made in Oxford and

award-winning) at Black Dog Pantry;

• Blyth goat

cheese at

Charles Street


• and more


than you can

imagine at

Erin Bolger’s new bakery, Pink Flamingo.

Try her pink lemonade signature flavours

in lemon squares, sandwich cookies,

buttercream cupcakes

and more. Bolger is the

author of the fabulously

fun cookbook, The Happy

Baker, and has baked

her way into our hearts

with stories of dating

and dining. On towards

Goderich now and we

stop in at the Bayfield

Berry Farm — which

is a few miles inland

(just follow the signs) — where you can

pick up house

made cherry

juice along

with berries

in season.

Nothing goes

better with

our Secco then

berries Yum.

Continued on page 34, after the Blyth Festival ad ...








We also offer local Lamb, Pork & Bacon

Burgers, seasoned and unseasoned.

Perfect for the BBQ!

Now available in London!

Visit Saucy: Meats & So Much More

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market

on Saturdays!

Open six days a week.

Hensall, Ontario

Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.


Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry

Specialty European Meat Products



• Shop • Stay • Play

№ 42 | July/August 2013

Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast

@onwestcoast Ontario’s West Coast & Taste of Huron

RIGHT ON THE BEACH — One Location, Two Outstanding Dining Experiences




Casual Fine Dining

• Marguerita Mondays • Thai Tuesdays

• Wine Down & Wild West Wednesdays

• Thirsty Thursdays • Fiesta Fridays

• Sizzling Saturdays (Ribs both sides)

• Sangria & Caesar Sundays

“Everything is made from scratch,

fresh to order, using local ingredients.”

— Owner/Chef Dave Giroux

A healthy alternative to fast food since 2001

A Mexican Hot Spot

85 Main Street, Grand Bend

The Sunset House: 519-238-2622

Jalapenos: 519-238-2084

Come in and get fed up!


Sunday Breakfast Buffet

and Omelette Bar.

And try our NEW

½-pound Bagel Burger!


Open 7am - 4pm, 7 days a week • 68 Courthouse Square, Goderich

№ 42 | July/August 2013 33

Eat and drink at the water’s edge.

Serving Lunch & Dinner 6 Days a Week

Always Closed Mondays

Reservations Recommended


42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend

Featuring the finest meat & produce from our

outstanding local farms, alongside

quality craft beers & wines.

Scan here to see our new menu!

71 River Road, Grand Bend


A Fresh Take on Tradition

Come for dinner or

a romantic getaway

on the Huron Shore

Celebrate SUMMER with Eddington’s!



Thursday Nights

All Summer

starts June 27




Stylish German Cuisine

Distinctive Accommodations

RR #2 Zurich ON Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend, 1 hour from London

519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736

Specializing in continental cuisine, made

with local bounty + an extensive wine list!

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a big city to create great things!”

- The Globe & Mail

Your table awaits you!

30 min North of London - 20 min East of Grand

Bend - 30 min West of Stratford

527 Main Street, Exeter ON N0M 1S1


№ 42 | July/August 2013

Continued from page 31 ...

Our picnic destination is the Rotary

Park at Goderich, right by the marina. It

offers a boardwalk, beaches, shady trees

and playgrounds. But first we need to head

about five

miles past

Goderich to

Red Cat Farm,

where Sophie

will supply

us with some



breads made in their imported German

oven — complete with rainwater mist

infusion! The bread is extra crispy and a

meal in itself. With our cheese, fish and

salami, this is going to be outstanding!

Back in Goderich we pull into the famous

Culbert’s Bakery for some doughnuts.


already eaten

the butter

tarts from

Rader’s so we

really need

a bit more

sugar! )

Finally, it’s

picnic time! If you find yourself wanting to

stay late to enjoy the sunset then you may

want to ease your way

back to Bayfield for a

late night respite at

The Red Pump. Not

only does it have a

fantastic patio but

the guest rooms are


Another great day

on the road in Huron,

and no kitchen to

clean up!

JANE ANTONIAK is the Manager, Communications &

Media Relations, King’s University College at Western and a

regular contributor to eatdrink.

BRUCE FYFE is a contributing photographer to eatdrink and

a librarian at Weldon, Western University.

№ 42 | July/August 2013 35


Beer & Spirits, Michigan-Style

Exploring the Great Lake Bays Travel Region


How do you know when your

collection has gotten a bit out of

hand? When you have to build

a tavern to hold it! That’s what

happened to Bill and Elaine Fournier of

Bay City, Michigan. Their love of antiques

led to Bill amassing a collection of beer

steins, which grew so large he created

the Stein Haus beer garden restaurant on

Water Street to house it. With more than

a thousand steins wired onto the walls,

hanging from the ceiling and displayed

on shelves, it’s an impressive spot. He has

another 1,400 steins in storage and he

hasn’t stopped collecting yet. “We started

with a few beer steins and it blossomed

from there,” says Elaine Fournier.

The Stein Haus offers sixteen beers on tap

and over one hundred varieties in bottles

including locally crafted, German and

domestic beers. Add a plate of delicious

schnitzel, red cabbage and warm potato

salad and you are quickly transported to

a German beer garden without leaving

Michigan. “People come here for a good,

social time,” says Elaine. The addition of

live music and a patio makes Stein Haus a

popular destination for all ages.

Bay City is not on a bay, but on the

Saginaw River (where the Fourniers

also run dining cruises out to Saginaw

Bay on Lake Huron). It’s a hip little town

Schnitzel Red Cabbage and Warm Potato Salad

The Stein Haus, in Bay City

with a lively downtown strip featuring

locally owned cafés such as World Café

International Bistro with Lebanese styled

menu items, and St. Laurent Brothers nuts

and chocolate shop where you can buy bags

of candy sure to make you feel nostalgic.

This is all part of the Great Lake Bays travel

region ( where

you can “tour the triangle” in your car

between Bay City, Midland and Saginaw.

A perfect stop on the route between Bay

City and Midland is Shari at The Willard

Hillton restaurant near Auburn, where

Chef/Owner Shari Smith, Executive Chef

Jacob Austin and Pastry Chef Maria Austin

have created an exciting dining experience

in “the middle of somewhere.” Don’t blink

or you will miss it and that would be a

shame. The team grow their own produce

and herbs from seed and pride themselves

on serving delicious, healthy food. “Build


Chefs from the Willard Hillton

it and they will come,” states Chef Smith.

“I used to come to this old hotel when I

was a kid. Years later I told my realtor that I

wanted a place like the Willard Hillton. He

said, ‘It’s on the market.’”

The 135-year-old former Beaver hotel

and tavern is known to have “two ghosts

for sure,” says Smith, and her staff fully

agree. “We’d hear footsteps, when we first

moved in, and it would drive us nuts. Then

we met families who told us about the

ghosts, and guests who say they can see

them.” The so-called town of Willard (think

intersection) bills itself as Michigan’s last

ghost town. The hotel was jokingly called

the Hilton and then Shari had to add an

extra “l” to the name to avoid lawsuits.

№ 42 | July/August 2013

The dining room features classic

European cuisine. Orange harissa

shrimp, slow roasted strawberry

barbequed pork and goat cheese egg

rolls, and hickory roasted duck breast

are among the menu offerings. The wine

list is extensive. Chef has recently added

cooking classes.

After a great evening at the Willard

you’ll be looking for a place to spend

the night. The immaculate H Hotel in

Midland is an unexpectedly upscale destination

in a quaint town. This five-star


is owned

by the

area’s main


Dow Chemical,



the top floors

for their visiting



out The Table


with its wine

room and


wine cellar.

The next

day it’s off

for a fullscale


The dining room of the

five-star H Hotel in Midland

of Bavaria, with more chicken then you

can imagine, in Frankenmuth — located

near a popular outlet shopping centre,

Birch Run. Here you can enjoy some

“Lutheran Lemonade” at Frankenmuth

Brewery, proclaimed the oldest brewery

in Michigan by the enthusiastic manager,

Ryan Buchinger. Try a flight of craft

beers including Hefeweizen ale, Munich

style Dunkel lager, Batch 69 American

style IPA and American blonde ale. If you

have some kids along, or a DD, be sure

to try Frankie’s root bier, microbrewed

in house. You can take home a growler,

which you can get filled on Wednesdays

for only five dollars.

The brewery offers incredibly hearty

meals with fresh Bavarian style pretzel

Try a flight of craft beers, at Frankenmuth Brewery

№ 42 | July/August 2013 37

balls served with spicy

The Bavarian Inn platter

mustard — helps to

soak up the beer! Try

the mountain high

meat loaf sandwich or

the Bavarian bratwurst.

If you have room, fit in

a root bier float.

A stroll along Main

Street is required after

this meal, and before

you even consider

tucking into dinner

— which is a must

in Frankenmuth.

Famous chicken

dinners are offered

by the two branches

kuchen recipe. “The

of the Zehnder

Three generations of the Zehnder family welcome first time you come

guests to the Bavarian Inn and Restaurant

family. Dorothy

here you have the

Zehnder, a whirling

chicken dinner. The

dervish at ninety-one, who still works next time you have the ultimate platter,”

each day, and her clan, led by son Bill and she says. It features smoked pork loin,

granddaughter Amy, operate the Bavarian sauerbraten, bratwurst and schnitzel.

Inn and Restaurant. Their cousins operate The Bavarian Inn is celebrating its 125th

Zehnder’s Restaurant across the road. To anniversary and has grown into a large hotel

put this phenomenon into perspective: complex with multiple swimming pools,

the Bavarian Inn serves 600,000 meals water slides, games rooms and gift shops.

annually! Dorothy has her own popular Guest rooms are named after the numerous

cookbook and people clamour for her apple German families who still live in the area.

Aside from all the food and drinks,

Frankenmuth is an interesting community

with deep roots in the Lutheran faith. Our

guide, Herb Zeilinger (who is thrilled to

have a room named after his family at the

Inn) informed us about Frankenmuth’s rich

German history. A visit to the impressive

St. Lorenz Lutheran Church, which depicts

the history of the region through its stained

glass windows, is worthwhile. All in all, it’s

a fun weekend getaway within a few hours

of the border crossing at Port Huron.

JANE ANTONIAK is a culinary travel writer for eatdrink.

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations for

King’s University College, Western.

BRUCE FYFE is a regular contributing photographer to

eatdrink. He is also a librarian at Western University, London.

Zehnder’s Restaurant


№ 42 | July/August 2013

The BUZZ ... new and notable

The latest word on local chefs, restaurants, farmers’

markets, food shops, and culinary events. Send tips

to and follow us for up-to-theminute

news on Facebook and Twitter.

There is nothing like “dining al fresco” when the weather

really heats up, and London has superb outdoor dining. There’s

a very strong café culture in the city, with a diversity of outdoor

culinary experiences for everyone. In the summer, you can enjoy

dining at a sidewalk café, in a secluded courtyard setting, under

a pergola, or on a roof top patio or charming side-street terrace.

London city staff continues to study how best to turn

curbside parking spots into seasonal outdoor patios for

restaurants and bars across London, an opportunity that

is available downtown again this year. The Early Bird

and Kevin and Denise Greave’s Jambalaya were part of

the successful initial pilot last year and are up and running

again this year. It also seems likely that boulevard patios

will expand into Old East Village. Restaurateurs and some

politicians hope it will help invigorate Dundas Street, one of

the core’s critical stretches of commercial properties.

Downtown, Gregg and Justin Wolfe of The Early

Bird diner and Rob D’Amico and Dave Lamers of Abbruzi

Ristorante, and in the Old East, Jeff Pastorius of The Root

Cellar are all proponents of the city looking at fresh alternatives

for boulevard cafes, such as placing tables and chairs against

their buildings and constructing pedestrian boardwalks that

would wrap around the sidewalk (in a parking space) as other

cities have successfully done. Restaurateurs like Long Phan of

Tamarine by Quhyn Nhi would like to see the buses moved off

Dundas Street to accommodate boulevard patios.

Across the street from Tamarine, Joe and Sheryl Duby

of Blu Duby are putting the final touches on their sidewalk

patio as we go to press.

Chef Danijel (Dacha) Markovic of London’s Kantina

Restaurant scored a victory in the ninth round of the

Discovered Culinary Competition at Nella Cucina in Toronto

and is now steps away from winning a cooking experience of a

lifetime in Spain. Markovic moves on to the semi-finals of the

event, a two-day match pitting 16 chefs from across the country

on July 13th and 14th. Four finalists will compete for the grand

prize: an all-expenses paid trip to spend a week cooking at a

Michelin-star rated restaurant in northern Spain.

Uber-restaurateur/caterer Jess Jazey-Spolestra of The River

Room Café and Private Dining and North Moore Catering

is in the planning stages for the Rhino Café in the premises

previously occupied by the gift shop at Museum London. Jazey-

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

growers & creators of fine lavender products


Steed & Company Lavender, part of a

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta


in our unique handcrafted lavender products


in the wonderful scent and

calming powers of lavender


47589 Sparta Line, Sparta

Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4

Mother’s Day through Christmas


Music in the


July 13-14 & 27-28

Lavender Fairy


August 10

• Vegetarian


• Takeout

• Catering

• Reservations


ADDIS ABABA Restaurant

Tues–Fri 5–1pm • Sat 12–1pm • Sun 2–1pm

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222

№ 42 | July/August 2013 39

Spolestra recently hired Chef Jamie Craig, formerly of the

Stone Willow Inn (Wildstone Bar & Grill) in St. Marys.

Chef Jeff Fortner has taken over the helm in the kitchen at

Avenue Dining at the Idlewyld Inn. Diners know Fortner

from stints at Blue Ginger, black trumpet, The Hunt

Club and, most recently, The River Room.

Habitual Chocolate and Fire Roasted Coffee’s new flagship

café downtown at Talbot and King Street is slated to open late

July. Pastry Chef Michele Lenhardt, formerly of The River

Room Cafe and Private Dining, Black Walnut Bakery Café

and Agora at The Art Gallery of Ontario, has been hired by

Dave Cook as a chocolatier and baker at the new operation.

Fresh n’ Wolfe is the new fresh, healthy, and fast brother of

The Early Bird. Opening soon, it will be serving up sandwiches,

paninis, soups, salads, smoothies and similar fare. Located in the

front portion of the former Nite Owl. “Come in on your break

from the office and grab yourself something great, and to go!”

says proprietor Justin Wolfe.

Byron Freehouse will be opening in mid-late summer.

Owners Kathryn Banasik and Robbin Azzopardi are

describing this new venture as “bistro meets sports bar with

simplified food prepared in the freshest way possible, using

locally sourced ingredients.” The sixty-five seat ``local``

will have a fifty seat patio. On Chef Joshua Sawyer’s menu

expect to see such signature items as Grilled Fish Tacos, Thai

Curry, Steak and Frites and Buttermilk Fried Chicken.

Just down the street, Mark Kitching of Waldo’s on King and

partner Mark Navackas are opening a new restaurant in

Byron in the premises formerly occupied by Dar’s Diner, to be

known as Waldo’s in Byron.

Ilderton’s Rich and Deb Hunter made a bold decision to make

The King Edward’s patio smoke-free this year. They also

started offering a variety of beer flights, with five samples for

only $8 plus tax. Since their taps are typically split 50/50 between

Ontario craft beers and British Isles selections, you can do an

Ontario flight, a UK flight, or a mix.

World Tailors is a group of courageous women from around

the world who make World Cooks aprons, sold in London,

Ontario. They come from refugee camps in the mountains

of Nepal, small villages in Africa, cities in South Korea and

Afghanistan, and islands like Fiji, among other places.

London’s first “Food Truck Rally” is slated to coincide with the

opening weekend of the annual Western Fair, September 6–8.

Eldon House is the ideal place for afternoon tea, served Tuesday

through Sunday until September 1st. Enjoy traditional scones

with locally made jams and butter, served with a variety of

delicious teas on the elegant lawn of London’s oldest residence.

Reservations recommended. (481 Ridout St. North, 519-661-5169)





Every Night Is

a Great Night

for Something Special


• Best Fine Dining

• Most Romantic

• Best Atmosphere



Cooking &

London’s Best

Caesar Salad

Lunch Weekdays

Dinner 7 Nights a Week

1 York St. (just W of Ridout)

Ample Free Parking

Baby Grand Pianist 6 Nights a Week with Reservations • 519-672-0111


Corelicious London is back. This local culinary initiative

showcases downtown London restaurants exclusively.

Enjoy a delicious three-course prix fixe menu at an amazing

downtown restaurant! This promotion will run from July 5th

to July 14th.

Londonlicious has been a success over the past several

years, with participating restaurants completely booked with

reservations. Londonlicious returns this summer from July 19th

to August 11th. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience an

array of three course prix fix menus from diverse restaurants

for the amazing price of only $20, $25, $30 or $35 per person. A

three-course meal is to be chosen from a select menu at each





MILLHOUSE: 519-601-6456

MILL STORE: 519-660-0199

2042 Elgin St, Arva ON

“Just 3km North of Masonville”

№ 42 | July/August 2013

restaurant. Price does not include applicable taxes, alcohol or

additional menu items. Reservations are highly recommended.

Bill & Lisa of Noteworthy Wines are pleased to introduce

Grady Vineyards, their latest California supplier, and will be

hosting a private tasting event for licensees and restaurant

owners on Tuesday, July 23 from 6:30 pm to 11:30 pm. To RSVP,

call Bill at 519-914-1204 or email

Signatures! A Taste Test of London’s Best raised over

$10,000 to help people living with Parkinson’s disease across

Southwestern Ontario. Signatures featured a diversity of local

restaurants, eateries and catering companies at the Budweiser

Gardens, offering their most popular dishes for all to enjoy.

Denise Duncan, Job Developer, WOTCH Community Mental

Health Services, would like to connect London restaurants to

qualified and hard working individuals. They offer on-site job

coaching and in some cases employers are eligible for wage

subsidies to cover training.

The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market has a great variety of

vendors and products, from meat (bison, elk, lamb, beef, and

pork) to baking (artisanal bread, scones, muffins, gluten-free,

and decadent treats). The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market is a

producer-based market operated by Christine Scheer and

has remained food- and farm-focused. For more information

about The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market, including recipes and

special events, please go to the farmers’ market blog, at www. Also, check out the Covent

Garden Market’s new website:

Festa Italiana is one of London’s marquee events and also

one of the city’s liveliest and most anticipated festivals. Each

year the popular event attracts over 35,000 attendees from

across Ontario. Organizers are proud to share and showcase

all that is Italian. The market square at the Covent Garden

Market is transformed into an Italian “piazza” for a three-day

celebration of Italian culture, cuisine, music, and dance on

August 23 to 25th.

Colombian Festival will be held at Covent Garden Market

on July 20th, 11:00 am–11:00 pm.

Upbeat Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking

bistro & caterer

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 |

№ 42 | July/August 2013 41

A Festival of Poland, to be held at the Covent Garden Market

on September 7th, is pleased to announce that Olenka And

The Autumn Lovers will be performing at this year’s festival.

Ten Up Sushi has reopened in Old East Village with a new

menu that includes sushi and a wide selection of Chinese

offerings for eat-in, take out or delivery.

The Chi Hi is getting ready to open at 791 Dundas St (beside

True Taco); the restaurant will serve bánh mì. This sandwich

is a creation of French colonialism in Indochina, combining

ingredients from the French (baguettes, cold meats, and

mayonnaise) with indigenous Vietnamese ingredients, such

as cilantro, chilli peppers, and pickled carrots.

Speaking of True Taco, Luis Rivas and family are putting

the finishing touches on their new location called True Taco

“Authentic Comedor Latino” at 739 Dundas.

All ’Bout Cheese is the latest business to expand from the

Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market (WFFAM) and

transition to its own stand-alone retail outlet. Rick Peori has

been retailing cheese at the WFFAM since 2006. All ’Bout Cheese

will still be in the WFFAM on Saturdays but the new shop (across

the street) will operate Tuesday to Saturday. There also are plans

for a take-out lunch menu and cheese-making classes.

Miki and Agnes Hambalek from Taste of Hungary at

the WFFAM will be opening a butcher shop/deli next to All

’Bout Cheese. The Taste of Hungary features take-out and

sumptuous Hungarian-inspired food specialties. Agnes, a

professional baker and pastry chef, is a well-known caterer.

WFFAM vendors Theo and Gerda Korthof recently

opened the very successful Artisan Bakery , just a block

west of All ’Bout Cheese.

Western Fair Farmers and Artisans’ Market’s Bliss Gluten-Free

vendor Shari Blanchard has returned to the Masonville

Market this season. Blanchard has utilized her over 25 years of

food service expertise to innovatively create gluten-free, dairyfree,

and refined sugar-free treats from revised recipes which

she in turn handcrafted from scratch. Other WFFAM vendors at

the market include Burdan’s Red Cat Bakery, Leamington

Produce, Jake’s JCJ Apiaries, Edna’s Lorimer’s Adventure

Produce and Anything Grows.

The Healthy Eating, Healthy Physical Activity (HEHPA)

initiative of the Child and Youth Network has been supporting

the Westminster Working Group since 2011. HEHPA works to

promote changes in physical behaviour and eating habits to

promote healthy, happy living for children, youth, and their

families. By coordinating with the Westminster Working

Group, grassroots community projects can be created. These

projects can be executed on a small scale, to have big impacts.

HEHPA supports the Southdale Farmers’ and

Artisans’ Night Market to help bring fresh produce and

a sense of community to the Westminster neighbourhood,

which has been identified as a food desert. This means that


a 3-course

prix fixe menu


432 Richmond St.

at Carling • London


Seven Days a Week

Dinner, Lunch or Sunday Brunch


there is no grocery store located in the neighbourhood and

no local transportation that will take a resident directly to

a grocery store. The access to healthy food greatly impacts

the health of a neighbourhood and it is on that note that

the Southdale Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market was formed.

The Westminster Working Group wanted to make a local

food hub where neighbours could meet and shop. The

Westminster Working Group will be operating the

Southdale Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market every Thursday

from 3:30 pm to 7:30 pm during August and September in

the parking lot across from Paramount Fine Foods. This

community-driven night market helps the residents to know









OPEN for Lunch, Dinner & Brunch


July 19 to August 11


for Private Dining, Weddings, Corporate Events,

Anniversary Dinners, Christmas & Birthday Parties


at MUSEUM LONDON | 519.850.2287

№ 42 | July/August 2013

that their efforts within their own neighbourhood can be an

influence on the lives of many.

The Raja is London’s elegant Indian food hot spot, where the

traditional cuisine and gracious service are a suitable match

for the well-appointed decor. To make dining even more

pleasurable, Raja is now offering a 4-course RAJALICIOUS

Dinner for $29. The first course: Crispy papadum with 5 dufferent

chutneys; 2nd course: appetizer or soup; 3rd course: main dishes

served with rice, vegetable and Naan bread; 4th course: choices

of desserts.

Local Food Feasts catering is a social enterprise business

that evolved from Local Food Skills, inspired by a passion

and commitment to local seasonal food. The Local Food Skills

program provided by London Training Centre is free to

people exploring jobs or careers in food. This full-time threeweek

program provides skills training, industry certifications

and learning experiences from farm to fork, including

fundamental culinary skills, foodservice styles, growing,

harvesting and retailing food at a farmer’s market. Revenues

from caterings go entirely to support the Local Food Skills

program. Visit

their new website

Strathroy Farmers’ Market is one of the area’s oldest open

air farmers’ markets and has operated since 1861. The market

takes on Market Square behind the town hall in Strathroy

on Saturdays from June to October 26th. The market (open

8am–12 noon) is a member of Farmers’ Market Ontario.

Ogilvie’s Food & Artisan Market is the latest addition to

the culinary scene with a complement of year round indoor

vendors and an additional 60 vendors at the seasonal

outdoor market. There is a large patio with landscaped

gardens to sit and relax while enjoying the market experience

in London`s north west. Ogilvie’s is located at 1331 Hyde Park

Road, south of Gainsborough. There are additional parking

spaces at The Crossings just under the railway overpass.

Open Saturday 8 am–5 pm and Sundays 9 am–3 pm.

Pepper Tree Spice Co. (formerly Hyde Park Spice) announced

the opening of their second location at 223A Colborne Street, Port

Stanley. Thanks to its ongoing success over the past three years

№ 42 | July/August 2013

at the WFFAM, sharing over 300 organic spices, herbs, seasonings

and artisanal blends, Pepper Tree has been patiently waiting for

the right opportunity to grow again. To date the response has

been overwhelming to their organic, natural, additive-free, saltfree

and gluten-free products as well as their line of gourmet

organic oils and condiments.

Yoda Olinyk is the chef, owner and sole proprietor of Yoda’s

Private Catering. After working in various restaurants in

London, St. Marys and abroad, this past spring she left a position

at The Only On King to devote herself full-time to her catering

business. Her kitchen/storefront is now open at 161 Ross Street,

St Thomas. In addition to catering, Yoda’s offers locally-sourced

Pre-Made Meals, available for pick-up Tuesday–Saturday, or for

delivery to London and area. Contact or

visit www.letyodacookfor

FreshFest is a celebration of local farmers and the food they

grow, presented in partnership with area chefs, vintners

and brewers. The signature food event started in 2009 and

each year has included an evening of delectable tasters, live

music, culinary workshops and fundraising events in support

of the CASO Railway Station in St. Thomas..

For FreshFest’s fifth anniversary, the evening tasting

experience returns this year with more music plus two more

days for a three-day festival, July 19th to 21st. The FreshFest

Weekend will be a collaboration of good eats and good fun

with partners the North America Railway Hall of Fame

(CASO Railway Station), Horton Farmers’ Market and

Elgin County’s “Savour Elgin.”

FreshFest Friday Tasting Event showcases local

food, culinary conversation at workshops in the “Waiting

Room,” and the sweet welcoming refrains of Don Durkee

& Tom Stark, Shuug and the Temporary Men’s pleasing

blend of “County Music” and a surprise not-to-be-missed

headliner. Friday July 19, 5:30–11 pm at the CASO Station.

Horton Farmers’ Market Morning — Enjoy a FreshFest

breakfast and other special events at Horton Farmers’ Market,

Manitoba Street, St. Thomas, Saturday July 20, 8 am–12 noon.

The Sheridan Band is celebrating their 10th anniversary

with a CD release and a FreshFest Saturday Boardwalk

Party with their high-energy Celtic music. The evening

also includes an Elgin County Pie bake-off and auction, BBQ

dinner, cold refreshments and sweet treats from the bakers of

Elgin County. Saturday July 20, 5:30–10 pm at the CASO Station.

Savour Elgin Culinary Mystery Tour — Load up the car

with your children or friends, take a trek to the country where

our food is grown, and follow your map on one of three Savour

Elgin Mystery Tours. Friday July 19 to Sunday July 20.

Chef Ian McGill has stepped down as Chef of London’s Braywick

Bistro to head the kitchen at Backstage in Stratford.

Eddington’s of Exeter is open for lunch all summer long,

with a new seasonal menu getting rave reviews. Gourmet

Pizza is served Thursday nights, and fresh Lake Huron Pickerel

on Friday nights, but check out their Events Calendar for

upcoming theme nights.

Your love of all things Italian begins at

№ 42 | July/August 2013

Featuring specialty foods, kitchenwares,

tablewares, cooking classes & gift baskets.

115 King Street, London





Now Open!

Sun–Tues 11am–midnight, Wed/Thurs 11am–1am, Fri/Sat 11am–2am

The 7th Annual Stratford Garlic Festival takes place Saturday

September 7 & Sunday September 8. Celebrity Chef presenters

include Elizabeth Baird (Canadian Living), Rose Murray

(author/chef), Emily Richards, and Chef Darryl Fletcher

(Chef D-TV). Enjoy garlic braiding workshops, garlic growing

presentations, Ontario Garlic Market, and a celebrity chef

competition (chefs TBA). For more info, including the extensive

musical lineup, go to

Chef Bryan Steele and Sommelier Peter Lavoie have

invited some of their favourite wineries from around Ontario

to The Prune Restaurant for a Winemaker’s Dinner

Series. Dinners will complement the wines three boutique

wineries, from Niagara (Pearl Morissette Niagara

Vineyards on Friday, July 26), Erie North Shore (Muscedere

Vineyards on Friday, September 20), and Prince Edward

County (TBA). For more info, visit

or call 519-271-5052 and ask to speak with Peter.

The Prune has also started a Plates and Grapes evening

every Thursdays starting at 7:30pm. Food ranges from $10-$15/

plate, while wine ranges from $5/3oz, $10/6oz. For weekly

menus, visit

Congratulations to former Stratford Tourism Alliance

Culinary Program Development Coordinator Danielle

Brodhagen on her new position as the Director of Product

Development at Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA).

Flavours of Stratford — Two guided walking tours

present locally produced culinary delights from unique

food destinations and passionate artisans. Morning tours

run 10:30–1:30 pm. Afternoon tours run from 2:30–5:30 pm.

Conclude with a custom sandwich and sample of craft beer

or wine. $36/person, Wednesday-Sunday during July and


Monforte Savouring Sundays — Join Monforte foragers

on an edible journey discovering seasonal foraging with a

sustainable focus. Monforte Dairy, 49 Griffith Rd., from 11

am–1 pm. $25/adult & $12.50/child.

Enjoy a VQA winery tasting paired beautifully with a selection

of Monforte Artisanal Cheeses. Monforte on Wellington, 80

Wellington St., from 2-4 pm. $25/adult & $12.50/child.

Gather for a Forest-to-Table Adventure: a four-course

Sunday dinner featuring locally foraged finds, handcrafted

cheeses from Monforte Dairy and Ontario VQA wines. $50/

adult & $25/child. Enjoy foraging on its own or continue

savouring Sundays with Monforte at the Wine & Cheese

Pairing and during a dinner that features your own foraged

goods. Savour all three for $100/person. Tickets can be

purchased online at

Participate in making fresh artisanal cheese and tour

Monforte Dairy with esteemed cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen.

Monforte Artisanal Cheese Making continues with a tasting of

several varietals of Monforte cheeses. $25/person. Monfore Dairy,

49 Griffith Road.

The annual Flavours of Perth Pork and Corn Supper BBQ

features local summer fare, famous steam engine cooked corn

№ 42 | July/August 2013 45

on the cob and mouth-watering pies for dessert. Bid on your

favourites in the World Famous Celebrity Pie Auction! This

Stratford Perth Museum fundraiser is held at Shakespeare

Optimist Hall from 5–7 pm.

Take Time for Tea — Refresh and relax on the spacious back

porch of the Ambercroft while enjoying exclusive English

“Cream Tea,” featuring homemade ginger scones, lemon curd,

empire biscuits and three specially selected teas. 25$/person at

3–5pm 129 Brunswick St. every Tuesday for the months of July

& August.

Stratford enthusiasts guide you on the Pubs, Pilsner &

Spirits Tour, a walking pub crawl through Stratford’s Victorian

downtown. Sample four Ontario craft beers as you hear about

the spirited side of Stratford and the tumultuous brewing history

of Perth County. $25/person.

Experience ancient rituals and learn about Herbal Infusions

for your Health. Taste the local flavours of herbal teas that will

calm, stimulate, build immunity, detox and heal — a guide to

blending selected herbs as you create your own signature blend

to brew at home. $75/person. Stratford Tea Leaves, 433 Erie


Candy Chocolate Barr’s Candies invites you into the kitchen

to explore the techniques of hand crafting a favourite candy

recipe in an exclusive custom designed workshop. No licking

the spoon! After learning the candy maker’s secrets hands-on,

indulge yourself in a take away selection of favourite candies

and chocolate treats. $75/person. Chocolate Barr’s Candies, 136

Ontario Street.

Join seasoned forager Peter Blush in Foraging for

Wild Edibles as he searches for wild edible plants and

mushrooms along southwestern Ontario’s Avon and Thames

River Trails. Learn how to identify, harvest and, most of all,

cook and taste these delicious wild delicacies. $30/person.

Venture downtown to indulge in a Savour Stratford Culinary

Trail. Sample your way along some of Stratford’s finest

artisan shops, pubs and restaurants on the Maple Trail,

Bacon and Ale Trail, or the Chocolate Trail. $25/trail.

Mark your calendar for the award-winning Savour Stratford

Culinary Festival, presented by GE Café Appliances

September 20–22, 2013. Celebrity chefs prepare innovative

tastings, stroll through the outdoor farmers and artisans

market, enjoy live music and more!

Our readers want to know, so send us info about culinary

events, fundraisers, and regional news. With BUZZ in the

Subject line, send to:

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

kitchen design

Choosing your Style and Finishes

From Classic to Old World, From Traditional to Cutting Edge


The first step in renovating

your kitchen is the

design plan, as discussed

in previous issues of

eatdrink. Selecting your appliances

is important in this step. The next

consideration is selecting the style and

the finishes for your space.

What style appeals to you? Is it

traditional, transitional, urban, country,

contemporary or modern? It is important

to take the style of the house into

consideration and to make selections

which accentuate and complement the

architecture and details of the home.

The floor is an important aspect. Thought

needs to be given to how it flows into the

rooms adjacent to the kitchen. Also, think of

the floor in terms of your lifestyle. Is there a

pool outside the kitchen area where people

will be going in and out with wet feet?

Whether you have small children or pets

might lead you to make particular choices.

The top selections for kitchen flooring

are hardwood, cork, tile and natural stone.

Hardwood works well with open concept

designs in terms of flow between rooms.

It is resilient, warm on the feet, and works

This Country French style kitchen has a mix of maple, cherry and

pine wood, a concrete floor, granite countertops and a stucco canopy

№ 42 | July/August 2013 47

with almost any style of cabinetry. The

drawback is that it can scratch and dent;

but it has longevity, as it can be refinished

over time.

Cork is as comfortable as it is cushiony,

and is renewable and sustainable since

cork is harvested from the bark of the cork

tree and does not harm or destroy the

Comfortable cork flooring compliments the

cabinetry in this Traditional style kitchen

tree itself. Similar to hardwood flooring,

cork can be pre-finished in the factory, or

urethaned on site after installation.

Tile or stone flooring are practical in

terms of durability. They come in many

sizes and configurations, and lend

themselves to different styles. They can

be heated from below, which makes them

much more comfortable to stand on. Tile

can be hard on one’s legs if standing on it

for any length of time.

The floor is a sort of “back drop” for

the rest of the kitchen. If I am selecting

materials for a whole house, I often

start with flooring so that it has flow, or

coordination, from one room to the next.

The most prominent finish selections

to consider are the cabinetry. I advocate

selecting styles and finishes that have

longevity, rather than being trendy,

as a well designed and constructed

kitchen should last 30 years or longer.

You may choose to change the hardware

or countertops after some time, but a

well thought out design is an asset to a

sustainable, long lasting kitchen.







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№ 42 | July/August 2013

English Country style, with porcelain tile floors & concrete countertops

In a traditional kitchen, styles such as

Country French, English Country and

Classic incorporate wood cabinets. Maple,

cherry, oak, walnut, pine or mahogany

are popular choices. Poplar or maple

woods, combined with a medium density

fibreboard, are typically used when the

cabinetry is to be painted. Often different

woods are used within the same space to

create more of an “unfitted” kitchen or the

look of accent furniture pieces.

Finishes can be anything from clear

lacquer coats to a variety of finishes with

glazes to create furniture that looks well

worn, with sheens that range from a 10 degree

(or flat) to a 90 degree high gloss. The same

options are available for painted finishes.

Select solid colours for a more urban look, or

antiqued, glazed and distressed

finishes for a traditional space.

For distressing, cabinetmakers

create wear marks, worn edges

and other indentations to give

the appearance of a well loved

antique piece of furniture which

has been well refurbished.

Finishes can influence the overall

atmosphere of a kitchen, from

classic, refined and upscale to

comfortable, relaxed and casual.

There are many different door

styles to consider as well. For a

traditional setting, the most common

styles are a solid wood raised

panel door, or an inset panel door,

which combines a flat panel with

a solid wood frame. For a more

ornate design, applied mouldings can also

augment a door style.

In a transitional kitchen, the door style

and finishes tend to be simpler.

A “shaker style” is very flexible, and can

take on many different looks depending on

materials and hardware. Inlays of different

woods or metal can be added to doors

or other elements of a kitchen to create

different styles or looks.

In a more contemporary setting, it is

more common to use veneers, as the doors

are typically flat and more conducive

to veneers. Veneers are available in all

previously listed woods, as well as bamboo,

sycamore, anigre (an African hardwood)

and others. Many exotic woods are offered

in veneers. Figured woods give the wood

a “flamed” look. There is also

a wide selection of laminates

available for contemporary

kitchens. Newer laminates

include textured finishes that

give the appearance of wood


For hardware (handles, knobs,

pulls), chrome, brushed nickel,

brass, antique brass or pewter, oil

rubbed bronze or black finishes

are available. I often refer to

the hardware as the jewelry of

the cabinets. It is usually the

last accessory to be selected.

Bamboo veneer cabinets, hardwood floors

and a granite countertop

№ 42 | July/August 2013

In traditional kitchens you may choose

more than one style or finish. Metals can be

combined in a kitchen, in the same the way

that different finishes can work together.

Another big decision concerns the

countertop. There are many choices available.

The most popular are granite, quartz, wood,

marble, concrete, solid surface acrylics,

stainless steel, tiles, and laminate. Choices in

countertops are very personal. You may like

more of a solid or sand look, larger stones or

chips yet very uniform, or a flowing, textured

multi-coloured and patterned look — like

a piece of art. Selections like this can really

make a statement in your kitchen, or be

subservient to other materials in the kitchen.

If you are choosing granite or marble, I think it

is important, especially if there is movement in

the stone, to see the slab in it’s entirety.

Most importantly, when deciding on

your selections, take into consideration the

dynamics of the cook and people using the

space and how they will use it, as well as what

is practical, what you like and what you will feel

comfortable in for many years to come.

A Shaker style painted kitchen with walnut hardwood

floor & granite tops with marble backsplash

SUSAN ORFALD is an Interior Designer with Hutton

Bielmann Design Inc.











547 Clarke Road, London



№ 42 | July/August 2013

Beer beer matters

Sundry Summer Beer Sojourns

Mondial de la Bière, in Montreal, and on ...

By The Malt Monk

The first major beer expo of the

summer season, Mondial de la Bière,

has wound down in Montreal and

been rolled away for another year.

The twentieth anniversary of what is arguably

Canada’s premier craft beer celebration did

not disappoint. One hundred and twenty

exhibitors presented over four hundred crafted

beers from around the world, including the

big gun micros from the U.S. and Canada.

It was great sampling fine artisanal ales in

the boisterous camaraderie of beer loving

brethren — and some of the best samples

came from Canada. Also very impressive were

the artisanal beers from Italy and Brazil, where

craft brewing has taken off in a big way. Having

a VIP pass helps in beating the line-ups in the

crowded main areas of the Palais des congrès,

so you can sample all the gold medal brews

and local terroir. Here are the results of artisan

brewing exhibitor competition:

Platinum Medal

• Gigantic Brewing Co. — End of Reason Belgian

— strong ale, U.S.A.

Gold Medals

• Cervejaria Bodebrown — Bodebrown Wee

Heavy — scotch ale, Brazil

• Le Saint-Bock — Malédiction — sweet stout,

Quebec, Canada

• Schneider Weisse — Aventinus — Dunkel

Weizenbock, Germany

• Beau’s All Natural Brewing Co. — Burnt Rock

Vanilla Porter, Canada

• Cervejaria Colorado — Colorado Guanabara —

Imperial stout, Brazil

• Dieu du Ciel! — Solstice d’Été — fruit infused

Berliner Weisse, Canada

• Brasserie de l’Abbaye de Brogne — Brogne 6.5

— Abby Blonde Ale, Belgium

• Muskoka Brewery — Twice as Mad Tom —

Double IPA, Canada

• Le Cheval Blanc — Red Ale américaine —

American Red Ale, Canada

• Hopfenstark — Berliner Alexander Platz —

Berliner Weisse, Canada

• Boquébière — Hopkins Porter Fumé — Smoked

Porter, Canada

World-class artisanal beer and local Quebecois

cuisine is well worth the jaunt to

Montreal. I’d recommend a trip to the 2014

Mondial to any dedicated craft beer enthusiast.

Here’s hoping some of these medalwinning

beers will make appearances in

local craft beer establishments this year.

Photo © Olivier Bourget

№ 42 | July/August 2013 51

Barrel Aged Beers

Barrel aged beers seem to be in vogue with

local craft brewers. Wooden wine and

liquor barrels are full of many flavourful

and aromatic compounds and tastes that,

when added to beer, create another level

of depth and complexity, and round out or

mellow the beer’s character. Some recent

notable examples:

Summer LCBO

Summer seasonal releases are arriving at the

LCBO and they show great promise with a

fine line up of international crafted brews hitting

the shelves in June. Most of these beers

have scored 80 or better on the beer rating

sites. Some notable must-tastes include:

• Mikkeller Canadian Dream (320697)

• Abbaye des Rocs Blanche Des Honnelles Strong

Belgian Wheat Ale (318907)

• Ommegang Iron Throne Blonde Ale (336032)

Niagara Craft Brewing

Another early summer junket took me to see

the two newest craft breweries in the heart

of Niagara wine country — Niagara Oast

House Brewers and Silversmith Brewing

Company — both conveniently located

on the old Niagara Stone Road that runs

through Virgil and Niagara-on-the Lake.

Both had impressive small batch brewing set

ups, which augurs well for the production

of cask-conditioned ales. Oast House had a

new release of Bière

de Garde (strong

Belgian farm house

ale) as well as a new

Smoked Irish Stout

and a delicious

Summer IPA —

all unfiltered, all

natural, flavourful

and unique.

Nothing beats sampling well-crafted beers

fresh from the brewery.

Silversmith had a new pale ale which

really got my attention — massive apricot

and pear tones with earthy hopping, very

cidery. Schwarzbier was fresh and roasty but

unfortunately the new Oyster Stout was still

in the conditioners. I will return to sample

this one. After tasting some of these two

talented brewers’ new releases I believe they

have great potential. Both have sampling

rooms and retail stores at the brewery, but

• Flying Monkeys Matador Cedar Aged Double IPA

• Cameron’s Obsidian, a rum barrel aged Imperial


• Nickel Brook’s “Old Kentucky Bastard”, a Bourbon

Barrel aged Imperial stout

• Radical Road’s Canny Man, a barrel aged Scotch

“wee heavy”

• and most recently, Bush Pilot Brewing Company’s

Barrel aged “Stormy Monday” Barley Wine.

• Howe Sound King Heffy Imperial Hefeweizen


• Charlevoix Dominus Vobiscum Saison(333146)

• Nøgne Ø Saison (322578)

• Le Trou du Diable Shawinigan Handshake (322552)

• Brooklyn Brewery Sorachi Ace (322537)

• Chouffe Houblon Dobbelen IPA Tripel (325738)

• Scaldis Blonde Triple (327601)

• Les Trois Mousquetaires Hopfenweisse (333468)

• Cuvée des Jacobins Belgian Lambic Ale (318758)

you can keep an eye out for their products at

craft beer pubs and the summer beer fests in

our area.


№ 42 | July/August 2013

Taste of the Month

The Niagara region is not only a new hot bed of

artisanal brewing, I have long maintained that

the craft brewing studies and pilot brewery at

Niagara College were responsible for many of the

good changes throughout the provincial craft

beer industry. Niagara College craft brewing

grads and instructors have had a major impact

on the Ontario craft brewing

culture — expanding the

industry with style diversity,

innovation, repeatable

quality and new craft

brewing operations. In

keeping with this trend, a

new leading edge brewing

consortium involving

Niagara college brewing

personnel recently

collaborated to form Bush

Pilot Brewing Company.

Bush Pilot Brewing is the

brainchild of Roland and

Russell artisanal beer aficionado Vlado Pavicic

in collaboration with Niagara College brewing,

local crafters and famous brewing artisans

from around the globe. The concept is to have a

celebrated brew master design a special brew and

oversee its production at local craft breweries

in collaboration with local brewing artisans,

creating a series of exceptional one-off brews. (A

permanent brewery is in the plans.) The focus will

be on big, unique, barrel-aged craft brews.

Bush Pilot’s first offering was designed by

the legendary Danish craft brewer Anders

Kissmeyer, of Nørrebro fame. Stormy Monday

is a fruited-spiced barley wine aged in Calvados

barrels. A profusion of natural adjuncts are

used in this brew — star anise, bitter orange

peel, cocoa, cinnamon, dried fruit (quince,

apple, dates, raisins, figs), real vanilla beans,

cardamom, juniper berries and local maple

syrup are combined with several select malts

and hop varieties. At first blush this sounds like

flavour bomb overkill but consider that it was

Bush Pilot Brewing Company’s outstanding

first offering is Stormy Monday barley wine

aged for over seven months in barrels sourced

from Domaine Dupont, France. The barreled

batch was brewed at Niagara college and a non

barrel-aged batch was brewed at the Nickel

Brook brewery in Burlington. Then they did a

60/40 blend and bottled it. The results I sampled

were phenomonal, and gave me this impression:

My sample decanted dark

opaque brown ale into the

snifter; when held to light

this is a beautiful hazed

ruby color. Two-finger

tight-pored tan cap lasts

and laces (a rarity in barley

wines). The operative word

for delineating this beer’s

character is complex and

layered. The aroma is rich —

spice, dark fruit, succulent

fruit, herbaceous tones,

cocoa, layered malt aromas

— amazing. Overkill? The

flavour tells the tale — from the front side to

the middle to the finish this ale is complex. The

palate is assaulted with a host of flavours from

piquant to subtle — spices, fruits, malts, herbs,

wood, vanilla, cocoa, hops, sweet, bitter and

various impressions caused by these flavour

amalgams — some new aroma or taste keeps

emerging as the brew warms — this holds great

promise for what cellaring will do for this big ale.

This is big brash barley wine meets spiced ale

meets barrel aging — complex verging on chaos.

An ambitious first offering for this brewing

company. I’m told they have a second offering

in the works — a barrel-aged Doppelbock called


Bush Pilot will be the one to watch for truly

unique barrel-aged brews.

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a

passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to

join in the dialogue at

№ 42 | July/August 2013 53


Suggestions for Al Fresco Occasions

Choosing Summer Wines, as the Host or the Guest

By Bill Wittur

As summer kicks in, we shift

our cooking and partying

activities to the great

outdoors. And many of us will

pull out a slab of meat or organize our

dinners without giving a thought to the

wine we’ll have with it. This is a shame,

because it’s important to remember that

wine and other drinks play a number of

important roles when it comes to getting

the best from your summer foods.

The greatest challenge today is working

your way through the intimidating ‘wine

wall’ at liquor stores. What to choose?

Red or white? Does a higher price always

mean a better wine? What locations

should I choose? Or varietals? Or should I

just stick with a blend?

Wine Picks for Summer Grilling

In a second, I’ll leap ahead and look at

some unique wines, but will remind

everyone of the wine and food pairing

basics that are (with a few modest

exceptions) universal: red wines with

red meat; lighter wines with lighter foods

(e.g. salads, cheeses, appetizers and so

on); dessert wines that are as sweet as (or

sweeter) than the food.


However, if you want to explore some of

the nuances of truly enjoying a good bottle

of wine with your meal, consider some of

the history associated with wine and

food consumption. The ‘Old World’

makers knew how to build wines that

worked with food. Consumption wasn’t

conspicuous: it had purpose.

Wines were made with a delicate

balance in mind. Vitality (wine talk

for acidity) had to be keen enough to

help wash away any dried or smoked

products. Lighter wines with fruity

tastes gained from the saltiness and

spiciness of preserved foods. Fruit

and body were in high demand, but

didn’t have to overpower the foods

of the day, so they didn’t have to be

‘maximum body’ wines.

Many of our outdoor culinary

efforts are a direct translation of

these Old World sentiments, so it

should come as no surprise that there are

many wines — from places all around the

world — that fit the bill for adequate pairing.

The key is to offer a versatile selection.

№ 42 | July/August 2013

Build A Versatile Selection

Versatility speaks to trying to make most

people happy most of the time (despite the

adage that says otherwise). Every person

enjoys different nuances of wine and

the key is to find a small collection of

products that will satisfy the broadest

audience possible. As a host, you’ll

be praised and you’ll save on time,

anxiety and reputation.

Key considerations with versatility

include wine style (i.e. blends vs. pure

varietals along with the colour or

sweetness level), your audience and, of

course, price points.

The List

Let’s start with a few reds. One of my

favourites is BC’s Pétales d’Osoyoos

(LCBO product #276741, $24.95). This is

a classic “Bordeaux blend.” They take

the best of grapes like merlot, cabernet

franc and cabernet sauvignon; a touch

of petit verdot and malbec; and a healthy

oaking period (20 months). The result is a

beautiful, lush purple wine with deep plum

and tannins that will go with almost every

meal that has a red meat component to it. If

you feel like splurging, I highly recommend

the bigger sibling, Osoyoos Larose (LCBO

#626325, $45.95).

A good pick for an old-world wine is

Zantho Fine Wine’s St. Laurent (LCBO

#315556, $15.95). This is an extremely versatile

wine that goes well with a wide array of

outdoor foods, including your best red meats,

but also chicken, pork and even smoked

salmon. St. Laurent is a grape variety that

many of us haven’t heard of, but it has

similar properties to pinot noir, one

of the classic French grapes that are

perfect with most foods. It has more

body, fruit character and this wine in

particular has a great, long finish.

Because it is getting harder to find a

pinot that’s less than $20, St. Laurent

makes a perfect substitute.

Finally, you’ll need a solid red

to carry you through the evening

once the meal is done. Continue

with either of the wines above or, to

save on budget, consider Beringer’s

California Collection Cabernet

Sauvignon (LCBO #113001, $9.95).

At this price-point, the wine is

№ 42 | July/August 2013

surprisingly decent and will prop up

the evening as the sun wanes.

Moving over to the whites, we have

a favourite from a relative newcomer

called Smoke & Gamble (S&G), from

Dover Vineyards. The S&G White

(LCBO #345637, $17.95) is essentially a

chardonnay, but is modest with the

volume of oak. It delivers a subtle,

crisp and clean taste that is on the

dry side, making it a wonderful

companion to most of the lighter

items in the summer diet.

Another pleasant surprise from

Ontario is the White Palette wine

from 13th Street (LCBO #207340,

$14.95). This is a gentle white blend

of a number of grapes, focusing on

riesling and sauvignon blanc. If you

happen to barbecue a Margherita pizza,

this wine will be a great match.

Finally, for those looking for something

a little different, but who also have

price in mind, go to South Africa.

This country is one of the oldest ‘New

World’ producers and chenin blanc

is one of its signature products. KWV

makes a fabulous Chenin Blanc

(LCBO #18689, $9.45) that will keep

most white wine fans coming back

for more.

A Little Less Civilized?

If you’re planning a trip out in

the woods and getting away

from the world, remember that

bottles are at risk of being passé.

That’s right. Look for alternative

packaging in order to avoid the

embarrassing situation caused by

shards of broken glass everywhere,

a lost corkscrew or the awkward

heaviness of a load of bottles back and forth.

Boxed wine, wine in cans or tetra paks,

or wine in smaller volumes can help you

enjoy what we all set out for this time of

year: Canada’s great outdoors.

Roasts | Chops & Steaks | Tenderloin | Ribs | Sausage | Bacon & More!


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Noteworthy Wines, a private wine agency and partnership

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№ 42 | July/August 2013



A Natural History of Transformation

by Michael Pollan

Review by Darin Cook

Michael Pollan probably knows

that many good things come

in trilogies. His latest work

completes a three-book food

journey he started in 2006 by following food

from its origins in nature and agriculture

with The Omnivore’s Dilemma, to the effects

it has on our bodies with In Defense of Food.

Pollan has now written Cooked: A Natural

History of Transformation (Penguin Press,

2013, $29.50) to show us that the preparation

of food, the stage in between coming from

nature and going into our bodies, could

be the most vital link in the food chain.

His previous research took him to farms,

feedlots, and McDonald’s, but the legwork for

Cooked started and ended in his own kitchen.

Along the way, he got help from bread bakers,

barbecue pit masters, beer brewers, artisanal

picklers, and cheese makers.

About experimenting in his own kitchen

Pollan writes: “Handling these plants and

animals, taking back the production and

the preparation of even just some part of

our food, has the salutary effect of making

visible again many of the lines of

connection that the supermarket

and the ‘home-meal replacement’

have succeeded in obscuring, yet of

course never actually eliminated.”

Cooking is a primal activity, using

the fundamental sources of plants,

animals, and fungi with the core

elements of fire, water, air, and earth

to create everyday culinary works of

art. Pollan’s wish is that we embrace

these sources and elements as a foundation

of sustenance in our own kitchens.

The elements actually provide the

backbone of the book’s four chapters: Fire,

Water, Air, and Earth. Cooking with Fire

takes Pollan to the barbecue pits of North

Michael Pollan

Carolina where

he gets his

hands into whole

hog barbeque with legendary

pit master Ed Mitchell. Chopping bellies,

loins, shoulders, and skin used in barbeque

preparation, he works so frantically to

prepare barbeque sandwiches for ravenous

crowds that he finds himself covered in pig

oil at the end of the day. He even suggests

the elegant concept of terroir, used mostly

in reference to wine, can apply to a pulled

pork sandwich, because the sense of

history that North Carolina has put into

what real barbeque is all about is tasted in

those sandwiches.

The chapter on Water gets him into

soups, sauces, and stews — dishes that

combine multiple ingredients in a pot to

simmer in a bubbling liquid. Quite the

opposite of roasting a single joint of meat

over a fire, cooking with pots, casseroles,

and tagines allows for a marriage of

ingredients which become unified with a

braising liquid to create new flavours. The

same can be said about the magic

of bread making. The chapter on

Air informs us that along with

yeast, water, and flour, a loaf of

bread consists of 80 percent air;

it is the magical ingredient that

allows bread to rise and the air

pockets in bread are where the

flavour and aroma reside.

There is even an evolutionary

theory uncovered by Pollan

called “the cooking hypothesis”, which

claims that modern homo sapiens

evolved from early ancestors only after

they discovered fire, started cooking

food, were able to quicken their digestive

processes, and had excess energy for brain

№ 42 | July/August 2013 57

development. Pollan writes, “Cooking in

effect takes much of the work of digestion

outside the body, using the energy of fire in

(partial) place of the energy of our bodies

to break down complex carbohydrates and

render proteins more digestible.” Before

the invention of food cooked over fire,

our primate ancestors spent most of their

day expending energy by chewing and

digesting raw food.

The Earth chapter is about the fermenting

and pasteurizing processes used to preserve

all sorts of food — sauerkraut, tofu, pickles,

cheese, beer, and yoghurt. Fermentation

originally occurred in the ground, graduating

to crocks made of earthenware which are

“really just earth once removed, cleaner and

more portable perhaps, but otherwise the

same basic idea.” Fermentation is also known

as cooking with cold fire as there is no actual

heat involved but foods like cabbage and

grapes can be “cooked” with bacteria and live

cultures into sauerkraut and wine.

Pollan ends the book with brewing his

own beer because “all four elements were

represented in the beer-making process.

The barley is first cooked over a fire; the

grain is then boiled in water; and the beer,

after fermentation, is carbonated with air.

Beer is the complete four-element food.”

Above all, Pollan is interested in

informing us how his research is good

for our health and he does rail against

pre-packaged, industrialized food as

being detrimental to our well-being. He

urges that “to cook for the pleasure of it,

to devote a portion of our leisure to it, is

to declare our independence from the

corporations seeking to organize our every

waking moment into yet another occasion

for consumption.” Pollan believes that

building our own meals from scratch is

important, interesting and worthwhile, and

that every meal is a piece of artistry and

alchemy that nourishes us. He writes: “It is

the very allusiveness of cooked food that

appeals to us, as indeed that same quality

does in poetry or music or art.”

Darin Cook works and plays in Chatham-Kent and

regularly contributes to eatdrink.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013


River Cottage Veg

200 Inspired Vegetable Recipes

Written by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Photography by Simon Wheeler

Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is

a British chef and television

personality, writer, farmer,

educator, and campaigner for

sustainably produced food. In the late 90’s he

settled at River Cottage and began a journey

of ecology, economy and sustainability.

Through the course of seven cookbooks and

a handful of television shows, he’s farmed,

fished and foraged for his dinner to show the

rest of us how it’s done.

Though he’s not a vegetarian, he advocates

the consumption of less meat and fish. “Just

ask yourself if you, or anyone you know, might

be in danger of eating too many vegetables,”

he quips in his latest book, River Cottage Veg.

Referring to himself as a “notorious carnivore”,

Fearnley-Whittingstall has long campaigned

for the ethical and sustainable treatment of

animals raised or caught for food. He is trying

to change the way we treat our food animals,

eliminating factory farms and fishing quotas

that needlessly waste catch.

In this book and an accompanying

television program, he challenges himself to

a whole summer without eating meat or fish.

Rather than finding ways to replace meat he

sets out to make vegetables shine. This is an

all out embrace of the fact that delicious food

can be made without the usual slab of meat

dominating the plate. Without the meaty

spotlight, meals are more likely to consist of

small, complimentary dishes similar to tapas.

River Cottage Veg is the result of the

author’s evangelical mission to change

your life. “Changing your prime culinary

focus from meat to veg will require a shift in

attitude - but not, I would argue, a very big

or difficult one. It’s true that if you eschew

meat and fish, you have to look at other

ingredients with fresh eyes. You have to

take a new,

more creative

approach to

them. But once you become accustomed

to cooking vegetables as main meals it will

soon seem like the most natural thing.”

One third of the recipes are vegan and are

marked as such. Many of the rest could be

revised to be vegan with a few substitutions,

mainly for butter and eggs.

Photographer Simon Wheeler has worked

with the author on several River Cottage

books. Every recipe has a picture of the

finished dish, or at least one variation of it,

as Fearnley-Whittingstall offers different

takes on many of the recipes.

Ideas for vegetable dishes have been

borrowed from all over the globe. There are

curries from South Asia where much of the

food has always been vegetarian. The chilies

stuffed with beans are Latin-inspired with

cilantro, cumin and hot smoked paprika

bringing out the best of the beans. The

middle-eastern flavoured tahini dressing is

the star of the zucchini and green bean salad

and would make an excellent dressing for

many vegetables.

River Cottage Veg is more than just a

cookbook. It is a passionate statement about

the state of the modern food system and its

pitfalls. It is a challenge to all of us to make

conscious choices about what we consume

and what those choices mean to the world

around us. And as luck would have it, more

veg on our plates is delicious and good for

us too.

Freelance writer JENNIFER GAGEL works as a research

assistant at London Public Library, and as a business process

consultant at Cunningham MacGregor & Associates. Contact

№ 42 | July/August 2013 59

Recipes courtesy River Cottage Veg: 200 Inspired Vegetable Recipes by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Appetite by Random House, May 2013, $29.95)

Tahini-dressed zucchini and green bean salad

Serves 4

For the tahini dressing

½ garlic clove, crushed with a little

coarse sea salt

2 tablespoons light tahini (stir the jar

well first)

Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon

Juice of ½ orange

½ teaspoon clear honey

Sea salt and freshly ground black


2 tablespoons olive oil

For the salad

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 medium zucchini (about 14

ounces/400 g), sliced into 1/8-inch


Sea salt and freshly ground black


Juice of ½ lemon

1 fresh red chili, seeded and finely


About 4 ounces/125g green beans,


4 good handfuls of salad greens

12 to 18 oven-dried tomatoes (optional)

A handful of mint, finely shredded


1 To make the tahini dressing, put the

crushed garlic into a small bowl with

the tahini, lemon zest and juice, orange

juice, honey, and a grind of black pepper,

and stir together well. The dressing may

thicken and go grainy or pasty, but don’t

worry. Just thin it down by whisking in a

little water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you get a

creamy, trickling consistency. Finally, gently stir in

the olive oil. Taste and add a little more salt and

pepper if needed. The dressing is now ready to


2 For the salad, heat the olive oil in a large

nonstick frying pan over fairly high heat and

cook the zucchini slices in batches, tossing them

occasionally, for a few minutes until tender and

browned on both sides, transferring them to a

bowl once cooked.

3 When all the zucchini are cooked, season

generously with salt and pepper, add the lemon

juice and chili, and toss together well.

4 Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Tip in

the green beans, return to a boil, and blanch for

1 minute. Drain, and then dunk in cold water to

refresh. Drain again, pat dry with a clean kitchen

towel, and toss the beans with the zucchini.

5 To assemble the salad, spread the salad greens

in a large, shallow serving bowl and scatter over

the dressed zucchini and beans, tomatoes and

shredded mint, if using. Trickle the tahini dressing

generously over the whole lot and serve.

ED note: Oven-dried tomatoes are a cinch and can

be used in so many dishes. Preheat the oven to

450ºF/230ºC. Slice as many tomatoes as you like

in half lengthwise, from core to tip. Toss with

salt and pepper to taste and enough olive oil

to coat. Lay cut side up on a baking sheet. Bake

until beginning to caramelize, 20-35 minutes,

depending on the size of tomato used. Serve

warm or refrigerate for later use.


Chiles stuffed with beans

Author’s note: I like to use fat, mildly piquant,

poblano chiles or piquillo peppers for this dish. But

if you can’t get hold of stuffable large chiles, you

can use small red or yellow bell peppers instead.

Serves 6 as a starter, 2 or 3 as a main course

6 large, fresh poblano chiles

1 tablespoon canola or olive oil

2 or 3 shallots or 1 medium onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

6 ounces/150 to 200g fresh, ripe tomatoes

1 (14-ounce/400g) can beans, such as borlotti,

pinto or lima beans, drained and rinsed

A bunch of cilantro, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon hot smoked paprika

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the garlicky yogurt (optional)

6 tablespoons/90g plain full-fat yogurt or sour


½ garlic clove, crushed

1 Preheat the broiler to high. Lay the chiles on

a baking sheet and broil, turning from time to

time, until the skins begin to char. Leave until

cool enough to handle, then carefully peel away

the skins, taking care to keep the chiles whole.

Cut around and remove the stalks and a flap of

flesh to form a “lid”. Carefully scrape out all the

seeds and membranes from inside the chiles

and lids, and tip out any juice.

2 Preheat the oven to 350ºF/180ºC. Heat the oil in

a frying pan over medium-low heat, then gently

sauté the shallots and garlic until soft, about 10

minutes. Slice the tomatoes in half and grate

their flesh straight into the pan, holding back

the skin. Simmer for a minute or two to reduce

slightly. Remove from the heat.

3 Add the drained beans to the pan and coarsely

mash some of them with a fork so they break

up a little - don’t over do it, you want plenty of

them to stay whole. Add the chopped cilantro,

cumin, and paprika, mix well, and season

with salt and pepper to taste. Carefully stuff

the mixture into the chilies and top with the

lids. Lay the stuffed chiles in a lightly oiled

ovenproof dish and bake for 20 minutes.

4 While the chiles are in the oven, combine the

yogurt with the crushed garlic and some salt

and pepper, if serving, and set aside.

5 Serve the stuffed chiles hot, with a spoonful of

garlicky yogurt if you like, and a crisp, green salad.

ED note: Don’t worry if not all your lids survive the

scraping out process. The bean filling toasts up

nicely where exposed.

№ 42 | July/August 2013

Roasted eggplant “boats”

Author’s note: This is a really simple but delicious

way to cook eggplants. Usually I serve them with

fresh mint and yogurt, but I’ve also tried smearing

them with a little homemade pesto, which is lovely.

To make a meal of them, serve alongside a simple

couscous salad, or just a green salad and some hot


Serves 2 to 4

2 large eggplants (about 1½ pounds/700g)

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 or 3 pinches dried chili flakes, or ½ to 1 large

fresh red chili, seeded and finely chopped

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for trickling

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

4 to 6 tablespoons/65 to 90g thick, plain full-fat

yogurt, plus about 8 mint leaves, shredded,

or 2 to 3 tablespoons pesto.

1 Preheat the oven to 375ºF/190ºC. Cut the

eggplants in half lengthwise. Using a small,

sharp knife, make a series of deep slashes

diagonally across the flesh, going about twothirds

of the way into the flesh, but not right

through to the skin. You want to end up with

6 to 10 slashes, ½-inch/1 to 2cm apart in each,

depending on the size of your eggplants.

№ 42 | July/August 2013 61

2 Mix the garlic and chili with the olive oil.

Hold one eggplant half in your hand and

squeeze it from side to side so the slashes

open up a little. Spoon some of the garlic

and chili oil over the eggplant with a

teaspoon, using the back of the spoon to

work the oil down into the slashes. Repeat

with the other halves.

3 Put the eggplant halves, flesh side up,

in a roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and

pepper, then trickle over a little more olive

oil - there should be little or no unoiled

flesh showing on each eggplant half. Roast

for about 50 minutes, or until deep golden

brown and completely tender.

4 Leave the eggplants to cool slightly. Serve

them hot or warm, either dabbed with

yogurt and sprinkled with mint and a

touch more salt, or smeared with a little


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№ 42 | July/August 2013

the lighter side

Which Basket Case are You?


With the long sultry days of

summer upon us, the tingly

allure of a day at the beach or a

road trip often beckons, usually

presenting itself as a spur-of-the-moment

notion to take advantage of good weather.

No matter who you are or where you’ve

lived, you likely have a picnic tradition:

perhaps childhood memories of a special

sandwich or the European habit of happily

spreading lunch out on a blanket anywhere

at all. Strong feelings exist around food and

as a result there are numerous picnic styles

— archetypes, if you will — that you may

recognize either in yourself, or in the person

you with whom you are dining al fresco.

The Picnic Masters — The person who

packs this lunch is definitely a find. (And a

kind hello to my brother if he’s reading this!)

A lightweight insulated bag unzips to reveal

tiny goat cheese tartlets with sundried tomatoes

and a chilled sangria made from crisp

local cider with fresh blueberries nodding in

the decorative jar; obviously, these people

never forget glasses. Blushing Muscat grapes

in tidy pre-cut bunches, precision-cubed

watermelon and ice cold potato salad vinaigrette

(mayonnaise might spoil) appear next,

followed by a tiny angel food cake. There are

triangles of toasted pita and a crock of homemade

hummus (dusted with rose paprika) for

those who are merely peckish.

The Hunger Gamer — This style is

sometimes seen amongst campers. Food has

to be provided — and it is — but the entire

affair has a kind of grisly desperation about

it. Tins of strange and odd smelling stews

may appear (politely decline anything with

a German Shepherd’s profile on the label)

and often utensils may be overlooked or just

deemed unnecessary. I once had a boyfriend

who brought a camping stove to our picnic

and went on to further impress me by gently

boiling quail eggs for a Salad Niçoise; however,

when he nimbly decanted the same egg

water into mugs for our tea (“saves time and

you’d never know”) I knew this particular

episode of Brideshead

would not be revisited.

The Romantic —

This style of eating

differs from The Picnic Master’s in its nod

to history and tradition. These are the softfocus

people who actually own wicker picnic

baskets with matching cutlery in the lid. They

can often be seen wearing large brimmed

straw hats, a vintage thermos flask looped

through two fingers. Cold cooked chicken,

tortière, crusty bread they purchased along

the way and fresh figs or raspberries will

be unpacked onto a cheery cloth. There’s

a lot of effort in this style — and never any

children. If done properly, onlookers assume

that someone on staff at Downton Abbey has

lovingly packed the whole thing up for them.

The Desperado — We’ve all been there.

In an effort to get out of the house, dull and

boring items of food are quickly assembled

and stowed into that old fashioned cooler

that lies waiting in the basement, chuckling

darkly to itself as we forget year after year that

it takes three burly men to lift it before there’s

even anything inside. Eerily flat peanut butter

sandwiches will soon float desperately in the

bottom — this cooler also leaks — amidst

bruised apples, granola bars that no one

really liked in their packed lunches either and

some cans of no-name cola that are poised

to explode. The sandwiches will be ritually

disposed of at a nearby bin (unless someone

feeds them to the seagulls, which never ends

well). Thank goodness for the french fry shack

where piping hot and reliably toothsome chips

can be purchased and sprinkled with salt and

malt vinegar. Harmony is restored once more.

Whatever style you choose to embrace,

be sure to take advantage of this fleeting,

golden time of year — because even a store

bought sandwich will taste far superior if

eaten under a willow tree..

SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance writer who also

works in the London Public Library system. She lives in London with

her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs and cats.


36 Grand Avenue, London


№ 42 | July/August 2013

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